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23535 | First time printing PETG; how can I improve the quality?
This is the first time I have tried to print PETG and this is what I got. Can anyone help me to troubleshoot this problem? I used Qidi slicer with a nozzle temperature of 240 °C for the first layer and other layers at 250 °C with the bed at 80 °C all the time. I am new to 3D printing so I use simple mode to begin with.
Can you add a link or an image of the STL model? It is pretty hard to know what is wrong while we don't know what it supposed to look like. It appears as if you're trying to print an overhang, but it is difficult to see based on your printed object image. Maybe you could also add why you need this to be printed in PETG.
It's nearly a standard answer for PETG work to ensure that your filament has been dried in a filament dryer or equivalent. Even fresh-in-the-package filament will have absorbed moisture resulting in terrible prints. That would be the first step to engage.
I use 250 all layer and for bed start at 70 and go to 60 on textured PEI,
but most important keep it at list under 40% humidity better if your have very little fan speed
Presumably you mean °C? A number without a unit is meaningless.
It is also important for PETG that there is no air draft. As long as I didn't close the printer, the prints were blooming for me too. I made a closure of MDF and the doors of transparent acryl. Of course, I printed the brackets (corners) and hinges.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.055410 | 2024-08-15T12:15:38 | {
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22935 | Can I use PT1000 thermistor on my Prusa mk3s+ without installing Klipper on it?
I recently bought a High-Precision (400 °C) Revo Hotside with the intention to use it on my upcoming Voron. In the meantime, I wanted to give it a go and use it on my Prusa, if for nothing else, then at least to print some missing Voron parts. Also, it's still in the "hassle-free return" period, so I'd love to test it without replacing the thermistor or altering it in any other way.
"Sadly", PT1000 is not a drop-in replacement for Semitec 104GT thermistor Prusa is using. It operates in a similar resistance range and should be supported by the Einsy Rambo board, but it works with a higher max temperature*, and has a different resistance-temperature function.
I was thinking about switching my Prusa to Klipper, but I admit it is a daunting task I don't want to attempt until I have my next printer up and running. So is there a simpler way?
* PT1000 works up to 400 °C with precision, some more is still safe when 104GT is up to 300 °C.
Still waiting for an answer telling me how, instead of one telling me not to.
There's no reason you need Klipper; in principle you could rebuild Marlin (stock or Prusa's version of it; you probably want the latter) reconfigured for a PT1000. However, that's a fair amount of work and chance for something to go wrong if you're not familiar with doing it. Unless you're actually trying to use extrusion temperatures above 280°C or so, you will get no benefit whatsoever from the PT1000. Above that, the PT1000 will give somewhat better PID control (more stable temperature). If you don't care about perfect temperature stability, the stock thermistor will work up to at least 320°C, maybe 330. But to get access to any of these temperatures you will already need custom firmware, since Prusa has the max temp capped well below that.
If you just want to test the hotend, but don't want higher temperatures, you can just put a standard 100k NTC thermistor like the one you have on the new hotend, and it should work with the Prusa firmware unmodified.
One of the reasons is that my current thermistor is unstable at 250 when printing ASA / ABS.
@Mołot: That's an underpowered heater cartridge not a thermistor problem. The issue with NTC thermistors is that once you get hot enough (low enough resistance), there are too few bits in the ADC measurement for the MCU to really tell what's going on with fine changes in temperature. But that does not happen until way above 250. So just going to the new hotend with a decent cartridge in it (or even just putting a 50W or 60W cartridge in your existing hotend) will probably solve your problem.
I'm inclined to believe you. Still waiting for an answer here. But I don't like the idea of dismantling pretty expensive heating assembly before I'll test it as-is, and I'd love to test it during its hassle-free return period.
I would just put a <$5 65W cartridge (I got 3pc/$10 on Amazon) on your old hotend for the time being.
Don't forget to tune the PID values when installing a higher Watts cartridge, I got instability using the old values after installing a new one.
Yes, any changes here, but especially a more powerful cartridge, call for a PID retune.
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22903 | Ideal camera position For OctoEverywhere's Gadget AI
I'm trying out OctoEverywhere's Gadget AI print failure detection.
It's been working surprisingly well, but I wondered if there was an ideal camera position, image format, or whatever to ensure it could always catch failures. Does anyone have any idea?
The ideal camera position details for AI failure detection are listed on the Gagdget website.
But in general, they are:
Make sure there's good lighting on the print.
Make sure the entire print can be seen at all times, even if the bed moves.
Reduce the number of other objects the camera can see to prevent false positive detection.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.055849 | 2024-01-04T21:12:45 | {
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22904 | Why does Consumed Filament vary between MAFX and G-code?
I am attempting to set up an MMU, the Mosaic Palette 3 Pro, with my Ender 3 (original version), with mods of note being Klipper firmware and the MicroSwiss Direct Drive NG Extruder. Accessory Mode is the mode of operation and I have set the outgoing tube length and loading offset appropriately.
After some trial and error of the MMU not creating enough filament for the outgoing tube, I am dealing with (hopefully the last setup-related issue) prints running out of filament approximately 75% through on the test keychain.
I slice with PrusaSlicer, so I can have an offline slicer, and use P2PP for post-processing.
However, the file that I see on Klipper and the generated MAFX from PrusaSlicer+P2PP vary wildly in the amount of filament consumed.
Why is the Palette claiming that it only requires 1.99 meters of filament for the job, while Klipper thinks it's 2.45 meters from the uploaded G-code?
Current P2PP start G-code for PrusaSlicer:
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default";
G28;
M82;
G92 E0;
;P2PP PALETTE3_PRO
;P2PP P3_UPLOADFILE
;P2PP PRINTERPROFILE=12345678901234567890123456789012
;P2PP P3_HOSTNAME=192.168.1.8
;P2PP P3_SHOWPRINTERPAGE
;P2PP P3_PROCESSPREHEAT
;P2PP SPLICEOFFSET=40
;P2PP MINSTARTSPLICE=130
;P2PP MINSPLICE=90
;P2PP EXTRAENDFILAMENT=150
;P2PP LINEARPINGLENGTH=350
;P2PP MATERIAL_PLA_PLA_2_2_1
;P2PP MATERIAL_PLA_PVA_3_3_-4
;P2PP MATERIAL_PVA_PLA_3_3_-4
;P2PP KLIPPER_TOOLCHANGE
;P2PP ACCESSORYMODE_MAFX
;P2PP ABSOLUTEEXTRUDER
;P2PP CONFIGEND
```
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.056029 | 2024-01-05T02:01:24 | {
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22941 | How to print more accurately 3D cube test?
I have print problems with my Creality Ender 3 S1 and I have calibrated all axes:
Belts both X and Y axex
Extremes of the X-axis horizontal structure have the same distance to the bottom of the printer
Wheels both the X-axis and Y-axis (wheels under the bed) are correct
However, after I printed the cube the results weren't good enough. Print details:
I have provided the 3mf file
PLA
Ender 3 S1
0,24 mm (first layer 0,20 mm)
Speed: perimeters 60 mm/s (external perimeters 50 %)
Speed: solid infill 30 mm/s; top solid infill 15 mm/s
Usually the first layer is bigger than the rest. How fast are you printing? It looks as if it is printed really fast.
@0scar I updated the post with data about print speed, however I answer your question below:
Speed: perimeters 60mm/s (external perimeters 50%)
Speed: solid infill 30mm/s; top solid infill 15mm/s
Thank you for your answer, but I returned the Creality Ender S1 because it was a nightmare and I couldn't fix the problem(s)... now I bought a Bambulab and it works like a charm, I won´t buy any Creality in my life and I have 2
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22945 | Extruder motor doesn't pull filament during job only
I have a weird problem over here, I'm restoring an FLSUN Kossel Mini (with a RAMPS 1.4 board) and it printed fine for the last two days.
Now when I initiate a print job, the extruder motor doesn't push filament into the nozzle ( it retracts filament like it's supposed to, it just doesn't push.) and this only happens during a print job.
I cleaned the nozzle
Increased/decreased printing temp.
Swapped motor drivers.
Adjusted Z offset.
Reset the motherboard.
Changed acc and jerk values.
None of these did the trick for me, and when I manually control the extruder motor (from the LCD or Repetier) it pushes the filament without any problems.
Is it turning at all? Are there signs of filament grind? Does it fail from the start or at some point during the print? Is coldside hot?..
Yes it turns fine, and the whole extruder assymbly is clean from any grind or debris.
The extruder doesn't pull filament from the start of the job, but weirdly enough it retracts the fillament when z hopping.
Are you sure you are sending good gcode? And have you tried to remove hotend altogether, to make sure it has no part in the issue?
Yes I did, first I used the didcated extruder buttons on repetier then tried with G1 commands, and both seemed to move the stepper motor fine.
Another thing I noticed was fillament wasn't extruded on the first 3 layers, when the print job reaches layer 4 the extruder motor returns to pumb fillament.
I eleminated the clogging/jaming possibility by romoving the filament wire and starting a print job.
This is when I found about the 3 layers problem.
Can the extruder stepper be damaged in this case?
Extruder motor works or it does not. It's not layer dependent. It seems your works. Check hour hcode
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22894 | The part of the motor that the hobbed gear goes on is too short
My Ender 3 had a broken part so I replaced all the plastic above the extruder motor.
After learning how to safely take off the pressure-fitted hobbed gear, I installed a new one that could be replaced more easily. Now the teeth of the gear are too low to reach the PLA. The rest looks fine, I've tried flipping it upside down (the squeezy handle won't fit) and I've tried moving it as high up as I can. Do I have to buy a new motor with a longer rod? (sorry I don't know the names of these things)
As previously mentioned, the gear has already been replaced. It's not stuck and I now have one with screws (its the one in the picture)
Can you show a picture? That might help assess what's wrong.
As stated above, please [edit] your question and upload an image
Pretty sure you just have it on upside down.
So, as mentioned, you could get a new stepper motor. As an alernative, have you tried flipping the hobbed gear around (as shown in this picture)?
The question Problems with stock gear with no screw on Ender 3 pro, more specifically this answer and this answer describe that after changing the gear, the shaft is too short. It is advised to just buy a replacement stepper or tap the shaft from the bottom of the stepper to extend the shaft. First option is probably the easiest solution.
I don't need to remove any gears.
According to your question After learning how to safely take off the pressure-fitted hobbed gear, I installed a new one that could be replaced more easily. you did...
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23124 | Using Blender for design and Cura for slicing; trying to figure out why this is slicing this way
I am trying to create a test model for a project I am working on and am confused about why this is slicing like this. In Blender, I used the difference boolean to cut a hole in the cylinder on the side of the cube and I deleted the faces of the cylinder and the cube.
I have uploaded the Blender and the .stl files and made them available:
Blender file
STL file
I'm not a Blender user but the STL file shows a zero wall thickness on the cylinder and no closure to the cylinder. If you close the cylinder, you should be able to test for 3D printable status with a built-in feature of Blender.
Image below is screen capture from Meshmixer user created content:
There's a YouTube video that addresses the 3D print tools, auto-starting at 8:01
If your objective is to have an open cylinder and cube, it is necessary to offset the walls inward or outward to create thickness. Also ensure that the offset walls are closed.
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23127 | My Z axis isn't moving when I home it but it moves on TFT display and Pronterface
I'm using an SKR 1.4 turbo with a Tronxy X5SA 500 Pro, TMC2209 stepper drivers with the dialogue pins cut because I'm using physical limit switches instead of sensor-less homing. The Z-axis moves up and down fine.
When I try to home it it doesn't move. I don't know why. Everything else is working and I confirmed the limit switches work with the M119 command. Someone please help. I'm certain it is in the firmware. I pulled the stepper driver for the Z and made sure it was clipped short enough. Actually, it's the shortest of all four. Also, I'm working with dual Z-limit switches. And I have an inductive Z probe on the nozzle. But I have disabled the probe in the software. My main goal is to home Z to the limit switches right now.
Does anyone have any ideas or commands I can run? I'm running the most recent stable version of Marlin.
What do you mean by I pulled the stepper driver for the Z and made sure it was clipped short enough. Also, why using an inductive probe and two limit switches?
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23121 | Add 5th stepper driver to the SKR mini E3 v3 to use it for a second extruder motor
I am trying to add a second extruder motor to my Ender 3 V2 so I can use both independently.
My Ender 3 V2 has an SKR Mini E3 v3 build in.
I have seen the post SKR Mini E3 v3 + additional TMC2208 = 5 stepper drivers (works!) and tried to build it. But now I am stuck building the Marlin firmware.
Has anybody done this before, or know how to do that?
Hi David and welcome! Please [edit] your question and post the errors (or output) as text (code formatted text) that you are encountering (not in this comment section). Without knowing what the errors are, it will be impossible to answer your question, unfortunately.
This is not that difficult, but you need some experience in configuring and compiling (Marlin) firmware.
In fact, you already linked to the solution. From the link you see that the person used the following pins to connect to the separate stepper driver on the breadboard:
Wire
Description
SKR pin
Stepper pin
GND
ground
PD4
DIR
Vio
3.3v on SPI1 header
PD5
STEP
OB2
to motor M2B
n/c
CLK
OB1
to motor M2A
either one
PDN_UART
OA1
to motor M1B
either one
PDN_UART
OA2
to motor M1A
n/c
MS2
GND
ground
n/c
MS1
Vm
to 24v from PS
PD0
ENN
In words, what you're seeing here is that I am taking 3.3v and ground from the SPI header, and taking the pins we need for STEP, DIR, ENN (enable), and the UART from the "I/O" connector. Add 24v power (and ground) from the power supply.
Now about the UART cable. You'd need to fashion a cable to go from one of the TMC2208's "PDN_UART" cable, split into two wires, one of which has a 1k resistor. The side without the resistor goes to PD2 and the one with the resistor goes to PD3.
Last thing, not shown but rather important: a 100uF electrolytic capacitor rated for 35v or higher. This will bridge the 24v and ground lines and should be close to the driver. I don't really need it for proof of concept but when driving actual loads during actual prints it's gonna be important.
I also had the idea of using the EXP1 connector's pins too. (As a klipper user, my e3v2's fancy screen don't work anyway.) Could fashion a single plug to hook up all the needed wires save for power. Wound up leaving that option open for the future.
As you are altering the board (adding a stepper) I'd prefer to define the extra stepper in the SKR Mini E3 v3.0 pin specification file.
E.g. append the stepper section to read:
//
// Steppers
//
#define X_ENABLE_PIN PB14
#define X_STEP_PIN PB13
#define X_DIR_PIN PB12
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN PB11
#define Y_STEP_PIN PB10
#define Y_DIR_PIN PB2
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN PB1
#define Z_STEP_PIN PB0
#define Z_DIR_PIN PC5
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN PD1
#define E0_STEP_PIN PB3
#define E0_DIR_PIN PB4
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN PD0
#define E1_STEP_PIN PD5
#define E1_DIR_PIN PD4
If UART is used be sure to set the E1_HARDWARE_SERIAL and the E1_SLAVE_ADDRESS in the section under the stepper section.
Furthermore, change the config.h to include you have multiple extruders:
#define EXTRUDERS 2
I assume you don't use 2 heaters and 2 temperature probes, so set:
#define SINGLENOZZLE
And select a driver type:
#define E1_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2208
For what it's worth, or depending on your hard- and software skills, you could probably better buy a new controller board with more stepper drivers; these boards are very affordable these days.
Thank you for the answer. I have got a problem now. I connected the BTT TFT35 E3 V3.0.1 to my printer. Every time i compile a Firmware and load it into the Printer the rotary knob doesn't work and the Screen wont connect with the printer. I have tried some ideas from other creators, but everything doesn't work.
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23150 | Bambu Labs P1P printing looping
I had fairly good prints until recently. Now, every print has the loops and such below. Inland PETG and Bambu PETG have the same issues. I know it is going to be some small, simple setting, but after a spool of failed prints, I'm starting to lose my mind. It is a P1P Bambu printer with a 0.8 mm nozzle and either Inland PETG or Bambu PETG. I am using a dehumidifier/drying dock running almost constantly (I live on the Texas Gulf Coast, meaning humidity). I've tried print temps from 235-255 °C and heated bed from 75-80 °C (Textured plate)).
It may help to know some other print settings such as print speed, fan speed, etc.
Base print speeds and fan speeds for P1P printers. 250mm/s print and 10% fan iirc
Please [edit] your question so that if the comments ever get deleted all the relevant information is still there.
That will be considered if and when I deem it needed. At this point, instead of critiquing my posting etiquette, you could answer the question or flag it if you feel that needed.
I apologize for any misunderstanding. I was only trying to help in getting the most information for anyone who might be able to help. Since you do not find my comments useful, I will leave this post.
It is better to [edit] your question to add information requested in comments, rather than adding more comments. Comments are for helping to improve questions and answers, and are distracting, so we try to keep them to a minimum. All of this information can be edited into your question to make it easier for people to answer your question. If all of the information is contained in one block then people don't have to read all of the comments to discover all of the information. Once all of the information needed to answer the question is contained within it, the comments can be tidied & deleted.
If you are indeed using the base profile that tops out at 250 mm/s and an 0.8 mm nozzle, it's probably insufficient cooling combined with print speeds that are too high. You'll need more cooling than 10 % even at lower speeds with an 0.8 mm nozzle. The large extrusions have more thermal mass and tend to cool slowly. As to why it specifically makes those "loops" instead of just sagging, the filament is probably not completely melted which will cause it to curl all over the place as it comes out of the nozzle. Slow down the prints to 15-20 mm³/s at the fastest and increase cooling.
Several different methods can be tried to solve this problem;
1- The type of filament you use (PETG) is a material that holds more moisture. You should definitely check your fan settings according to the region you live in.
2- I think you may have also reduced the retraction speed in the formation of the filament pile in the image. You are probably doing it to get a more uniform layer with a slow retraction, but the filament melting in the nozzle may have become leakage and formed piles at certain points.
But here especially because problems occur in the beginning and end layers;
3- Instead of reducing the retraction speed, you can better control the moisture content of the filament by changing the temperature between the layers. Higher temperature can vaporize the moisture in the filament and thus improve print quality.
Especially since the starting layer will cling to the ground, and act as a support structure, it can create leakage due to excessive moisture.
I don't think the answer I wrote was wrong. Why did I get a negative vote? You should share with me the part you think I wrote wrong.
It could be because the question states that moisture is not a problem I am using a dehumidifier/drying dock running almost constantly, and your points 1 and 3 indicate that the problem is moisture. I also have my doubts on your answer. Furthermore, point 2 is a guess, the OP doesn't say anything about changing the retraction. I refrained from voting, but can imagine the answer received a downvote, no pun intended.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.057117 | 2024-03-17T00:36:38 | {
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23255 | Under extrusion problem
I think I have a big under-extrusion problem with my Ender 3. When I start printing, the first two or three layers print perfectly, but the nozzle gets clogged at some point and the extruder starts skipping.
When I pull the filament out of the extruder I notice that it has expanded inside the nozzle, I've tried lowering the printing speed, retraction distance, and even turning off retraction.
When I turn off retraction, the quality is terrible, but at least it prints completely.
Printer: Ender 3
Print temp: 190 °C
Bed temp: 50 °C
Filament: Creality PLA
Infill: 20%
Speed: 50 mm/s
Layer height: .2 mm
Retraction: 4 mm @ 25 mm/s
This looks like an e-step issue. This YouTube video has good info on calibrating it, and coincidentally uses an Ender 3 to do so. He also has another video that discusses calculating the retraction speed and distance - I believe it's in one of his Cura videos about things you should always check, but I don't remember exactly which one.
Thank you so much, I'll give it a try to both videos
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23221 | New Ender 3 huge problems
I just got an Ender 3 V2 for my birthday.
I managed to get three prints before it stopped working properly the tube melted clogging the system.
Now when I print it won't stick to the bed and keeps building up around the tip.
I tried leveling the bed nonstop about 10 times now all four corners are good but the center seems to be lower somehow. PETG used settings all correct.
If the z-offset setting in your slicer is a positive non-zero number, try lowering it.
its whatever it is by default.
But what is it?
G28 ;Home
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
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23229 | Ender 3 Pro with BigTreeTech runout sensor and CR Touch clicking
My Ender 3 Pro is clicking when printing and retracting and the filament moves but when coming out there are periods of no filament and when retracting, it just pops back in. I also observed that with each click, the runout sensor moved.
I have tried mounting the runout sensor so that it can’t move, but it just ends up breaking off and moving. I also tried glue.
The runout sensor is installed between the extruder and the filament feeder.
I've cleaned it up a bit, but it is not very clear. Add photos, or a link to a YouTube video please. This does sound like a broken extruder lever or something else with the extruder.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.057648 | 2024-04-20T16:25:58 | {
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23234 | Creality Halot Mage produces a clicking noise when lowering but not when raising
I have just started hearing a clicking noise when the build plate is lowered on my Halot Mage and not when raising it. I have checked to make sure that nothing is loose and there seems to be grease on it.
I just wanted to know if this is the start of something serious because I also noticed that during the printing, you can see that the model is sticking and pulls hard to release, which I have not seen before either.
Any help would be appreciated as I don't want to end up with a damaged printer that I have only had for a week.
I'm not familiar with that particular printer but if it has an anti-backlash nut on the Z Axis (a second nut on the same screw, spring loaded axially) that could be the source. If so, it's harmless. Lubrication might help but in any case it should not affect printing.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.057727 | 2024-04-24T07:12:20 | {
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23202 | Help with F3 on Ender 3 Pro and what I'm doing wrong; fans not working after installing buck converter
This started when I was replacing my fans with 12 V Noctuas wiring in a 24 V-12 V buck converter for the three fans I replaced. The two other fans (blower and motherboard fan) read 0 V which led me to the fuse on the motherboard I think.
I was only reading 2.5 V on my "always on" fans and wanted to take a deep dive. I found the schematic for the Ender 3 Pro here (I have a 4.2.2 Board). When I probed the fuse, I did not read a short on my multimeter, but the display on the buck converter I have attached turned on.
For the hell of it, I attached a wire across the fuse and it sparked, but the display on my buck turned on for a second, not sure if I caused a short if the fuse is broken (which it seems like it is), and what to do.
I think the 2.4 V drop I measured over the Fan+ (always on fan) was due to the diode voltage drops from the protection circuit.
Any advice would be appreciated (minus buying a Prusa or something better, I'm aware) since I'd like to make the printer work with the buck converters and Noctua fans I bought following this video:
Showing F3 on the board:
Creality Board 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 Schematics
Someone else's similar issue I found on a Reddit post "need help ! ender 3 pro fans not working , motherboard : v4.2.2".
Note: I have cross-posted this on Reddit, but I could really use the help!
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.057818 | 2024-04-10T06:36:05 | {
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23206 | Gaps in print bed
I get these weird gaps inside my model, I know there are some other issues with this print.
I would say this is the one that troubles me the most; I will also say that I have thin walls in this model and the walls are sometimes printed with gaps.
I have made available the stl, the G-code, and the printer settings via a Google Drive link.
Hi Eden, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE. Please do not link to external images, SE has its own image servers that are retained as long as this site exists. Use the "insert image button" when uploading images, they will be shown inline, not as a link.
okay very sorry, it was a mistake.. i am used to this from other forums when the image is too big
@0scar - the new link/domain for stack exchange images is now i.sstatic.net. I got caught out by this yesterday..! :-) See Stack Exchange’s image hosting arrangement with Imgur is ending - advance notice. It kicked in April 3, but I only noticed it yesterday.
@EdenDolev - Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Don't worry, you did nothing wrong at all. The domain has changed from imgur and we weren't made aware, hence our confusion. :-)
thank you all for the comments and warm welcome! I will update that increasing the parameters: skin overlap percentage and infill overlap percentage helped in a smaller model, I will let him finish and then try on the model on this topic.
So the print for the smaller model came out quite well. I do have a few issues still, as can be seen in the pictures i will add. (hopefully correctly this time) First there is a weird gap inside the walls, thought about turning down the line width but that has an hardware limit of the nozzle and i don't want to hurt the achievement of a full print. Second there is still a small gap, increased by another 5 precent and hope it will be enough. Gapped Wall. Gap in base (google search revealed there is no way to add images to comment)
It looks like your printer has positioning issues. You definitely need to check the mechanical aspects of the printer, e.g belts properly tensioned? What printer is it?
@oscar it is creailty ender 3 v2 neo, i tried to check my belts, but didn't find a good guide for it
Hi still having issues with this
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21566 | Adding a custom G-code to parse strings from `configuration.h` in Marlin 2.0.x
I'm working with Marlin 2.0.x firmware for a special device, I have added an extra axis to the firmware and it's working well, However, I'd like to implement a custom G-code command that can parse a group of strings I've defined in the Configuration.h file.
Specifically, I want to:
Define a group of strings, for example, G** x** y**, G** z**, M** (like a series of codes) within Configuration.h.
Add a new custom G-code command, let's call it M9999, which, when sent to the printer, would trigger the firmware to parse and use the values of the previously defined custom strings in some way.
I've explored various resources and attempted modifications, but I'm struggling with the exact steps and code changes required to achieve this functionality. Could someone please provide guidance on how to properly define these strings and implement the custom G-code command within Marlin 2.0.x?
I have already checked Macros in Marlin firmware, but macros need to be redefined every time I turn on the printer as they can't be saved in the firmware or in the EEPROM. I have found a way to add a new G-code in gcode.c however I don't know which function can parse a string, or where to add this function.
In M810-M819, I found char * const cmd = gcode_macros[index]; if (strlen(cmd)) process_subcommands_now(cmd);. Can I use the function process_subcommands_now(cmd) to parse and run a group of G-codes predefined in configuration.h?
Your expertise and advice on the necessary modifications and syntax would be greatly appreciated.
I think you'll have better luck asking that question here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues.
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21724 | How is it possible for (PHA) prints to warp on an unheated bed?
I'm experimenting with a new type of filament, 100 % polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA). However, per the manufacturer's instructions I'm using a PLA profile in Cura and with the only change being a 200 °C nozzle on a cold, unheated carborundum glass bed using a well-calibrated Creality Ender 3 V2. Fan speed at 100 % from the first layer.
The whole setup works flawlessly with PLA at 210 °C with a heated bed at 35 °C. My PLA prints are generally hard to remove, even after cooling down the bed, sticking too well, despite not using glue sticks or adhesives. So, I assume that adhesion cannot be the issue.
For PHA, the first layers look excellent, but after some time, the result is extreme warping as shown below:
How is it possible for a print to warp on an unheated bed in a room with a stable room temperature of 19 °C and humidity of 45 %?
The model used (although print canceled) was Filament Swatch from Thingiverse.com.
Example of the same model, printed on the same machine, with the same settings but using recycled PLA and a heated bed:
What is your question? Just "how is it possible?" Or are you looking for advice on how to print this material?
Fair enough. Both, but they shouldn't be two separate questions. I'm surprised by how this is possible because warping is, by definition, the result of a heated bed, which is absent here. And, of course, by understanding the cause, we would be able to fix it, too, which is the goal.
@BobOrtiz don't know what definition you're using, but warping in, for example, ABS, can happen at any height, heated bed or not. If anything, I find heated bed help prevent it.
Then perhaps my understanding of warping is incorrect. Feel free to answer the question to clarify.
Warping is not "by definition" the result of a heated bed. Warping is the result of material shrinking as it cools, and having the opportunity to do so unconstrained by other forces (like adhesion to the bed, or rigidity of other material it's bonded to that's already cooled). The reason PLA sometimes warps more during printing with an overly hot bed is that the heat from the bed prevents the lower layers from ever becoming rigid, so they can't constrain the material laid on top of them.
Just out of curiosity, which brand of PHA filament are you using? According to Wikipedia, PHA is a very broad category of polymers with wildly different mechanical properties and melting points, so the brand probably matters a lot.
I'm using 'allPHA' from colorFabb.com. https://colorfabb.com/filaments/materials/pha-filaments/pha
The technical datasheet for ColorFabb's "allPHA" filament [original] says the following:
Contrary to most 3D printing materials allPHA is best printed on a
cold plate, so no active heating is required. A heated plate will
induce crystallization, which will lead to warping of the bottom
layers.
We advise using 100% cooling starting on the second layer. This helps
set the model by slowing down crystallization of the allPHA matrix.
So apparently, you have to cool it down quickly to freeze it in its amorphous form. Cooling too slowly will give it time to form a crystal lattice, shrinking in the process. This shrinking of the upper layers then exerts a force that pulls the corners of the lower layers upwards, which manifests as warping.
So my guess would be: Add more cooling. As mentioned in the comments, printing slower might help, because it gives the part cooling fan more time to blow on the printed lines, thus cooling them faster.
PS: Additionally, different materials require different bed materials. The fact that PLA sticks to your plate does not mean that other materials will stick just as well. The datasheet linked above suggests "3DLac / Diluted wood glue" for treating the bed, so that might be worth a try. Wood glue is often PVA-based, the same as many glue sticks, so that might be a good idea as well.
I would also advise printing slower and see if it helps. It can be helpful if cooling is on 100%.
Thanks for all tips. I did a few more attempts today. Slowed down printing speed to 50%, heated bed of 50C, unheated bed, smaller Z-offset, 100% cooling from first layer, 0% cooling from first layer, glue stick. Adhesion is horrible. After three or four layers all comes lose. I didn't have a single successful print with PHA so far. Other ideas? PLA works great on that machine with almost all mentioned settings.
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21695 | Is the term 'biodegradable' in the context of PLA misleading or misunderstood when industrial conditions are required to achieve it?
According to the Oxford Dictionary (Google), the definition of biodegradability is as follows:
(of a substance or object) capable of being decomposed by bacteria or other living organisms and thereby avoiding pollution.
The definition for the term composting is:
make (vegetable matter) into compost.
The definition for the term compost is:
decayed organic material used as a fertilizer for growing plants.
The defintion for the term decomposing is:
(of organic matter) in the process of decaying.
The general assumption is that "PLA can decompose in nature". However, it's no secret that PLA is only degradable under particular industry conditions, presumable using bacteria or other living organisms. Otherwise, it wouldn't even meet the definition biodegradable. The terms composting, compost, and decomposing do not apply to PLA, despite many speaking and writing about it.
At the very least, either the general understanding of the term "biodegradable" is wrong, or the term biodegradable is misleading, perhaps even greenwashing.
Related: TEDx: Will PHA Replace All Plastic? Nouf Alhazmi
I'm genuinely interested in the question: 'Is the term 'biodegradable' misleading or misunderstood in the context of PLA when industrial conditions are required to achieve it?'. So, it's a matter of terminology. I'm using recycled PLA only but am considering switching entirely to PHA. Also see my other related question: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/21684/36802
Interesting Ted talk, makes you think of the term "biodegradeble". I knew it was hard to degrade PLA, not to this extent, nice question! But I think you already know the answer ;-)
Seems similar or related to Can I really throw failed PLA prints on compost?, which already has some answers. It seems as if answers to this question would equally apply to that question as well, so maybe a duplicate? The answer seems to be that no one really knows because PLA hasn't been around long enough to have decomposed yet, or in other words, we need to wait at least another 80 years or so, to be sure.
@Greenonline, that's seems to be an answer too, and I cannot imagine that no-one knows. CNC Kitchen did some tests. I saw other experiments on YouTube to speed up degradation with prolonged exposure of temperature and humidity for extended times without success. I don't think it's impossible, and I would like to find out how it is, which I asked in another question.
In addition I find very little info, tests and experiments about PHA filament properties. I just bought my first two spools of 100% PHA from colorfabb. I never printed anything else than recycled PLA. I will try to experiment, test, compare with PLA and post the results.
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21627 | Does Marlin already have a way to define auto Z-offset strain gauge?
My Ender 3 v3 SE printer is still really new so I understand the info is limited. I'm trying to build a version of the latest Marlin FW that will work I've already redefined the pins that are different however PA4 CLK and PC6 SDO are undefined currently which is for the strain gauge or whatever they're using is a 4-wire sensor. I would imagine this could work as a second Z probe Z1_PROBE then take the difference between the Z probes.
My questions:
How do I define the sensor pin?
Is it baked in already to calculate the Z-offset between two probes?
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21628 | Ender 3 s1 Pro, Cura, and Bondtech CHT 0.4 mm nozzle
So I swapped the standard Ender 3 S1 Pro 0.4 mm nozzle to a Bondtech CHT 0.4 mm nozzle to increase my flow rate, but I am a newb and not really sure what to do to start dialing this in.
I have not been able to get any adherence to my bed since making the nozzle change. I have not as of yet changed my Cura / Sonic Pad settings from the standard 0.4 mm nozzle, but before moving to the CHT I was printing PLA fine, so I am confident it's dialing in my settings for this nozzle.
Any links or info would be a great help so I can figure out where to start. Even better if anyone has made this change a profile would be killer! I'm just starting to research this and teach myself, but would really appreciate any and all assistance. Not including my settings, as I do not think my wrong stuff will help, but I can upload them in the morning if people feel it is helpful.
Did you check the distance between the nozzle and the heated bed after the change? You need to re-check the Z-offset when you change the nozzle.
Multiple times, re-leveled it manually and the auto level. Didn't help which is why I was thinking it was related to the flow rate. Oddly enough my test line down the side of the bed goes on fine as does some of the first layer, then other portions just do not.
Can you add a photograph ad the failed adhering print?
Just coming back to this. I can not, I have since switched it back from the bondtech nozzole to a standard one and sold the printer. Thanks for trying to assist me and sorry I have overlooked replying more quickly.
The nozzle is 0.5 mm shorter, so you need to adjust accordingly.
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21648 | Are there specific advantages in using ball bearings on the extruder drive bearings
I'm probably going to answer my own question because I ordered a set of ball bearings to repair the extruder and then walked passed my lathe and realised all I had to do was turn some brass bushes the same 10 mm OD and 6 mm ID to replace the ball bearings. Thirty minutes later the printer was back online.
Now thinking about it, I wonder why ball bearings are used. There is no critical clearance between the filament and the drive cog as the filament is spring-loaded against the drive. Thus as the bearing wears a little over time it's only a matter of increasing the tension. There would be no sudden collapse in the middle of a print job. Of course, there might be good reason to once every 100 operational hours to re-grease the bearings. There would be plenty of warning of impending drive failure and plenty of time to figure in a new bearing. I expect however the brass bush to last the lifetime of the printer.
Has anyone been down this path with any sort of success?
Standard parts.
The idler wheels of an extruder are all standard parts. While a bushing is a suitable replacement for a ball bearing in the specific application, the bearing has some benefits over it:
Mass availability. Buying them in bulk is cheap for the manufacturer.
Harder to seize up the mechanism. A ball bearing that is slightly out of spec (e.g. too tall central boss) will not block up the mechanism for the inside and outside of the bearing are decoupled.
More compatible with screws. Unless the bearing is seized up, the screw that goes through the part does not need to be smooth but can be threaded everywhere - so the bolt is a cheaper standard part than one with a straight shaft for a bushing.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.059199 | 2023-11-18T12:52:20 | {
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21560 | What causes an unstable ethernet connectivity with Manta M8P/CB1?
I'm working with a Manta M8P and CB1 and the environment I'm working in requires it to be directly connected to the PC via an ethernet cable. (Wi-Fi or ethernet connection to the router is not possible)
However, when I do this, the Mainsail interface is often not viewable and the SSH connection keeps breaking. I remember trying this with a Raspberry Pi in the past and there were no issues seeing Mainsail and SSH work.
Has anyone experienced this or does anyone know what's different with BTT that would cause this? I noticed the device seems to be working when it has an IPV4 address. But it only holds it for a few minutes, and I can tell it loses it when everything starts breaking.
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21553 | Is there a possibility to print supports that have overhang themselves?
I've been looking for various ways to cut down on material costs in my 3D prints. One of them is reducing material in supports, or trying to get rid of supports completely. I do not have a question on how to reduce by changing settings regarding the supports but rather the shape of the supports.
I have an old Creality Ender 3, but it has no issues with printing +/-45° overhangs. Cura generates pretty much vertical supports for anything above a 45° angle, which makes sense. but would it be possible to have a slicer generate support where the walls of said support have overhangs themselves? Another way of putting it, the bottom of the support has a small surface and slowly expands upwards to the size of the roof that it is supporting. As long as the angle is under 45° this should be sturdy, but cut down significantly on support material.
I tried the other support option Cura offers (tree) but it's nowhere near what I mean. I feel like I'm on to something I just wouldn't know how to approach it.
It sounds like you're looking for Cura's "Conical Support" option, which I believe is still classified as "experimental" and not shown by default, but works great in my experience. Search for it and make it visible if it's not visible by default in your version of Cura.
The other option is using tree supports. These will naturally have overhangs (up to "Support Tree Angle"), but differ in lots of other ways that can make them a lot better or some what worse than "classic" supports depending on what you're trying to print.
I have successfully printed several things on a Creality Ender 3 V2 with Marlin 2.x firmware using the newly supported Tree Supports using the free Ultimaker Cura Slicer 5.5 as shown below:
Those supports are basically all overhangs and very easy to remove afterwards.
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21591 | Anycubic printer gives a "hotend not heating up" error
I just bought an Anycubic 3D printer and after a few uses the screen on the printer would say "hotend not heating up".
The heat bed and hotend would not heat up all the way and would cool faster than heating up when I enabled a print.
What do I do?
Hi Dartless08, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Which anycubic printer did you buy?
As it is brand new, contact the seller.
If it wasn't brand new, but years into service, you could troubleshoot why it is not heating up, e.g. loose contact, bad heater element, thermistor faulty, etc..
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22943 | Poor layer adhesion on only one layer of PETG print
One layer of PETG is not printing correctly
I’ve successfully been able to print in PETG, and it looks perfect except for a random layer in the middle of the print. It adheres to the bed fine, and the rest of the layers are fine, but one in the middle appears detached and weak. You can see the line in the plastic that goes all the way around. Any idea why?
This is the second time printing. I thought maybe there was a power issue or something while printing that caused it, but now I have the same effect again.
I have an Ender 3 Pro with a spider hotend and use Overture PETG. Nozzle at 255 °C and bed at 85 °C (initial layer is 260 °C and 90 °C), no fan, 90 mm/s speed.
Have you checked the gcode to make sure there aren't actually missing extrusions in that layer? Some versions of Cura have a bug where they'll omit large parts of a particular layer. If that's not the problem, look for anything different in that layer of the gcode preview that might be related (odd travels, etc.)
Nothing strange in the GCode
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22922 | Error message "homing failed printer halted please reset"
I have an Ender 3 Pro 4.2.7 2.0.8.2 that I haven't used for a couple of months; switched it on, all perfect. I tried to print a model and the PLA wouldn't stick to the bed; I think the hotend was a fraction high.
Re-adjusted bed to ensure square and flat as hadn't been used. Switched off and then hotend defaulted to 5 mm above table. Thought I'd do a firmware update, load the latest software put, it on a clean, formatted (4096) SD card, switch off power put the card in, and switch it on, just booted up as normal, ignoring the firmware update.
I followed all instructions from the web including a new card, renaming the file, etc. Switched off, switched on. now when I try to do Auto Home or Level Bed, nothing happens, no beeps no movement, and a minute later get "Homing failed printer halted please reset". Check all connections, put a meter on all micro switches, and perfect.
Nothing now moves and don't know what to do.
"Switched off, switched on" -- make sure you don't have a USB cable plugged in during the power cycle, otherwise you're not fully "off."
Check if the firmware is for the board version of your printer. Different boards may have different drivers or pin definition, which happens for example, when you flash a 4.2.2 firmware on a 4.2.7 board and vice versa.
Yes have checked, As I said, I tried to update to latest firmware, loaded SD card as per instructions, switched off printer, left for at least 30sec, put in SD card with .bin update but printer ignores card and just boots up as normal (with fault)
Rename the firmware to something like F123.bin
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22862 | Can Duet 3 Roto Toolboard work with BigTreeTech mainboard?
I am considering a CAN Bus setup with BIGTREETECH Manta M8P, V1.1 or V2.0 with a Raspberry Pi CM4 2GB WiFi as a mainboard because it is overkill and it shouldn't limit me in any way in a foreseeable future. I am also interested in Revo Roto as a tool head because it's light and all-in-one solution for a well-established easy-to-use ecosystem. It's advertised as compatible with high-flow nozzles and 60 W / 300 °C heaters, and I am not going to print very high temp materials. To avoid drag chains, I would want a CAN Bus setup, but the only solution for Roto I can find is Duet 3 Roto Toolboard.
I don't know the first thing about CAN Bus. Would these two boards work with each other? And what would I need to add, to make it work?
All these boards together add up to a pretty penny, so I don't want to spend that much only to waste some of it and never be able to get it to work. I am not associated with any of these manufacturers, if I were I would make them find answers for me. Links are only for reference.
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22881 | What is the difference between Carborundum Glass and Borosilicate Glass and which has better adhesion properties?
I'm choosing a new bed for the Creality Ender 3 V2. It's unclear if the Creality Ender 3 V2 came originally with a Carborundum Glass bed or a Borosilicate Glass bed. What is the actual difference between Carborundum Glass and Borosilicate Glass and which has better 3D printer bed properties such as adhesion?
(I'm not interested in personal preference or opinion, which seem to be involved in most available information regarding printer bed choice.)
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22812 | Is there a possibility to reliably print PLA with an Ender 3 that has an all-metal hot end?
I want to use my Ender 3 as a multi-filament-printing printer
As many users already have asked, printing PLA with an all-metal hot end is not really recommended.
But, if I am attempting to use my stock Ender 3 printer (no hardware and software modifications) as a safe indoor 3D printer that can both print PLA and PETG, without risking any fumes coming out of the PTFE tubes.
How may I reliably print PLA with an all-metal heat break, without any further hardware modifications?
Are there any reliable slicer settings (such as print speed, retraction, etc.) that should be systematically tried?
All printers are at least a bit smelly/fumey. If you want to avoid that, an enclosure that is vented through a filter, or vented outside is a solution.
Can you expand a bit on what you mean by "printing PLA with an all-metal hot end is not really recommended."? Prusa printers are known to be reliable, and have all metal hotends. I've been printing PLA on my Prusa MINI+ for years very reliably (and more recently a Prusa XL, again with all-metal hotend).
You can look up the material properties of Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and see that its glass transition temperature (when it softens) is around 115 °C, and it melts at 327 °C. The PTFE in a not-all-metal hotend will be in the heatbreak which is significantly colder than the hotend, and should not reach 115 °C.
The plastic casing which holds the heatbreak is typically injection molded ABS which softens at 105 °C. So your hotend would begin to shift in a softened carriage before the PTFE began to soften.
The fumes you are worried about are caused by off gassing, which may be a better term to search for if you want something with hard numbers you can reason with.
That said, if you can reason about the maximum temperature your PTFE will experience in the heatbreak (which should be significantly colder than the temperature of the nozzle), you can use this safety chart to reason about how dangerous (or not) it is to be near (see Capricorn's Safety Precautions).
As regards the safety of an indoor printer, PLA does not emit a lot of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) and is generally deemed "safe". (ABS is known to emit a lot, and is known to cause headaches). PETG seems to emit more than PLA, but still low at 550 parts per billion (ppb).
That said, all plastics emit some amount of VOCs when heated, so it is always best to print in a well-ventilated area. Personally, I print in my bedroom and spare room and just leave the doors to the rest of the house open, and those little vent slots you get at the top of windows have been enough to keep the air in the house fresh.
(If I print ASA or ABS I absolutely close the doors during printing, then air the room with an open window for 10-20 min when it is done: you don't want the ambient temperature too low when printing - causes excessive warping and other issues).
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22838 | What causes these print issues after changes on my Creality CP-01 extruder?
I have a Creality CP-01 that has one of the feeders loose so I had to take down the entire extruder to fix it. After fixing it making sure it feeds properly and leveling the bed, it is producing what seems to be overflowing prints and I have no idea what to do to fix it.
I am working with the same nozzle I had used before and had to level the bed multiple times. No change in cura settings only the hardware.
Welcome. What's your actual question? I suggest changing the title into a question and if possibly adding more details about what it is you've changed exactly or what steps you took.
@BobOrtiz done this is the most i can provide i think
Previously the title described the issue, now it does not. Now it just says when "the issue" occurred (i.e. when the extruder was changed). I'm not sure if that is an improvement?
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21801 | Nozzle hitting bed corner before it stars printing
I just got this Artillery Hornet printer. I am new to the 3D printing but the printer is not new.
The glass bed was leveled from the Marlin firmware menu (Motion > Bed leveling > Level corners) and I manually adjusted the distance of all corners to be exactly 0.1 mm from the nozzle.
The printer works fine but I am not satisfied with the glass bed which does have adhesion problems with PLA, it is difficult to print the first layer with a reasonably low temperature for the bed and filament.
What I wanted to do was to install a new PEI bed, but faced the following problem: before the printer started printing from G-code, the head would go to the bottom right corner and hit the glass bed with the nozzle once. Then it continues on the appropriate level. Since the nozzle is made of brass and the bed is glass it won't do any noticeable damage to the bed surface.
However, I am not entirely sure if it is safe for the nozzle or PEI that I am about to install. Is it normal that the printer would do something like this or does it need to be adjusted/fixed somehow?
Is this common or is this on purpose?
My understanding is that before printing, the head is parked at the home position. Therefore, the Z-axis limit sensor needs to be reached. This is the moment when it happens. This printer is not equipped with Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL).
I'm not familiar with your printer but I've had that happen as part of a filament heating routine where the nozzle touches the bed while the extruder heats up. The intention was to stop the filament from leaking out. In my case, it was part of the start G-code set up in my slicer.
You don't mention the slicer you are using so here is where you find it in the two I use:
Prusa Slicer: Printer settings tab > Left panel Custom G-code
Cura: Settings menu > Printer > Manage printers > Machine settings > Start G-code.
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21787 | How to reduce vibration on a camera arm connected to the printer bed?
I printed a Raspberry Pi camera arm for my Ender 3 V2 as a second camera that's not connected statically to the printer frame but to the printer bed instead. I now have two cameras, both from different angles, each with advantages.
However, the moving bed results in severe vibration. I need anti-vibration or stabilization methods for my very light Raspberry Pi camera. I was thinking about doing something with some rubber bands somehow or making a mold to make a silicon block(s) that I will use to replace some part(s) in the middle of the arm, disconnecting the plastic so it can potentially absorb some vibration.
Below is an example of the vibration viewed from my Raspberry Pi camera. The image is cropped, speed up and compressed to fit in an animated GIF under 2 MB for this site. The original is in higher resolution but the vibration is visible.
Can you post image of the arm, and how it is mounted to the bed?
I used to have a camera on the moving bed, never had the issue, so this comes down to design probably. Please share your mount.
I linked the design on Thingiverse in the question.
Every object or structure has one or more criticals, i.e. frequencies at which it will resonate if excited by a source of kinetic energy vibrating near one of the criticals. A relatively small vibration close to a critical frequency can excite a very large vibration in an object whose physical properties cause it to resonate at that frequency. Resonance occurs when the vibration cycles are in phase and reinforce themselves.
3D printers, with pulsed motors and moving parts operating across a wide spectrum of speeds, will certainly produce a broad range of vibration frequencies. Some of those might excite an object or structure physically connected to them.
Common engineering practice for suppressing vibration at or near criticals consists of making changes to one or more of these - excitation frequency, mass or stiffness. Nothing else will be effective.
It's probably impractical to try to change or dampen the myriad vibrations that a 3D printer produces. You'll most likely have more success trying to change the mass or stiffness of whatever is experiencing unacceptable levels of vibration. It should be noted that in some cases reducing mass or stiffness can be as effective as increasing them. The objective is to move the object's critical frequencies away from the frequency of whatever is exciting it. This is often a trial and error process.
Meaning that Input Shaping could potentially reduce this too?
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by Input Shaping but it sounds like trying to manage the vibrations of the printing process. I doubt that will do much good because the process can include a relatively broad spectrum of frequencies.
Looking at the project you linked, there is a couple of things you should consider to reduce vibration:
More points of contact. One point gives your arm a lot of freedom left-right, and not insignificant amount of up-down flex. For a 3D construction, ideally you would have N+1 = 4 mounting points.
Camera mount not on rotating axis. This, again, is a point of freedom that can vibrate very well. Glue it up or redesign,
Make it as light as possible. This arm looks way heavier than it needs to, especially at the end. It can very well narrow down towards the end significantly without significant stiffness reduction.
Use wider lenses and shorter arm. Shorter arm will vibrate less.
Make sure your cable is not an issue - it should move easily with the camera. Secure it along the arm so it cannot pull on the camera at all. Make sure it is short enough not to hook on anything. Make sure it's long enough not to pull on anything in any position. If these are contradictory, redesign for them to not be.
I mounted my Pi camera for Octoprint to the table, rather than the frame of the printer; works fine for me.
If you have a long lever arm it will vibrate. So try for more points of contact with the frame. Three would be ideal, nit one is definitely insufficient.
Another option is to mount the camera directly to the printer head - that seems to be common for super-short focus endoscope-style cameras.
Thank you, but it doesn't answer the question. I have one camera in a static position on the printer already, without vibration. This means that in that picture, the bed moves, but the printer doesn't. This second camera is on purpose bed connected for a different view and focus, static position to the print, instead of the printer. In that picture, the frame is moving instead, not the bed. I'm planning on a third (endoscope) cam focussed closely on the nozzle, which is another purpose again.
That description strongly implies that there is vibration between the frame and the bed. The camera(s) may be solidly fixed to one or another of them but will still "see" the other part of the printer moving with respect to it. The camera mounting may not be the culprit if frame and bed are vibrating with respect to one another.
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23781 | What is wrong with my RAMPS X clone move/accel?
The RAMPS X Clone as X1 works beautifully
But I am having a strange problem:
If you look at the code, there are two different parts. One is for a simple stepper move, and the other is for a simple acceleration. The simple move with X and clone X1 work. Simple Accel clone X1 does not. While X fulfills its command to move to the right side by a thousand steps, X1 does not: It moves 300 steps to the left (approximately) and then 700 steps to the right!
Can anyone find the bug?
The code link: https://gist.github.com/d333gs/dcf4f4124e640bd9d9b5ea50a662454d
I hope someone finds this useful.
OK, this is working: I repeated the command, first with 1 step and then the full 1000 steps. Now, the motors move together in the same direction.
digitalWrite(X_DIR_PIN, HIGH);
simpleAccel(1);
digitalWrite(X_DIR_PIN, HIGH);
simpleAccel(1000);
digitalWrite(X1_DIR_PIN, HIGH);
simpleAccel(1);
digitalWrite(X1_DIR_PIN, HIGH);
simpleAccel(1000);
GitHub: d333gs/Code update
Code link is a 404?
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23784 | Ender 3 v2 with CR Touch suddenly refuses to home Z-axis
I see some similar questions have been asked but can't see one that describes my problem.
In a nutshell the printer won't home from the Z-axis home position, which it needs to do to commence printing.
I have had the printer for nearly 18 months and about 12 months ago I fitted the CR Touch sensor. I had no troubles at that time. But today, each time I tried to get a print started it failed at the initial homing step of the print run.
I have tried reinstalling BLTouch firmware with no change in status. I reinstalled the original firmware, and the printer would home using the limit switches in all 3 axes. I reinstalled the CR Touch firmware, and the problem was back—the printer would home in the X and Y axes, but in the Z-axis, the printer raised the gantry to the start position but failed to lower to detect the bed using the CR Touch, instead simply clicking the probe in and out a few times before quitting.
If I use the Z-axis move to raise the gantry higher, to 100 mm for example, home all works successfully with the probe successfully finding the bed and homing correctly. From this position (home all) the initial print step of homing fails. Raising the gantry before commencing the print does not work as the unit changes the Z-position to "0" from the actual raised position and fails to home as if it had already been homed.
I don't seem to be able to find help on the web with this issue beyond re-installing firmware which I have done. The Z-axis limit switch works when homed without the CR Touch add-in, so that does not seem to be the problem.
Check the cables and or replace the sensor. With Z switch it works, so it must be the sensor or the cables connecting it.
Thanks for the reply. I had checked cables and wondered about the sensor, but it was the gantry that wouldn't move the sensor into range. After a couple of days unplugged, I went through the usual prep again and now it starts fine. I note that the Z-position number is now something like 4.59 instead of 0. I had noted a similar resetting of Z-position 100 to 0. I had tried position the nozzle as close as possible to the plate and setting that as home, but as soon as it went through the homing process in the print process, it reset it to 0. Just one of those things a few days off fixed, I guess.
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23847 | How to stop the Tevo Tornado filament from oozing during the auto bed leveling sequence?
Based on the following Start G-code, I want the print bed to heat up to the material_bed_temperature first then do the rest of the G-code. However, it always heats up the extruder first to the material_print_temperature then does the rest of Start G-code. I feel like there's something in the Tevo Tornado firmware that executes the unwanted material_print_temperature command first then do the Start G-code, but I am unsure what specific section of the firmware to look for to fix this problem.
Please don't post text as an image; see Why are images of text, code and mathematical expressions discouraged?.
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14757 | Jagged circles while slicing in Cura
I am having some issues where I am seeing small jagged lines on the final inner walls of G-code generated by Cura, is there anything I can do to try and reduce this.
I am seeing both jagged circles as well as stitching? between some perimeters.
I think this is caused by some interaction between trying to print the top surface of the model and the walls.
Below the red line roughly shows where these are occurring in my model.
I have tried both Cura 4.7 & 4.8 does anyone have suggestions on what I can do to help get rid of these artifacts, or should I not worry about them, I am just concerned about them affecting the strength of my print as this is an engineering component.
possibly an artifact created by the number of walls... have you the same issue if you try less walls?
I require the number of walls to make some of the thin sections of my part solid.
I don't dspute that, but there is something in the geometry that creates an infill movement in between the inner layers and the 3 towards the infill - that's ODD...
I will try when I get home, I was suspicious of interaction with the top layer, I have perimeters set to 5, with alternate extra turned on. The issue appears to happen from the 9th outline which I can only assume is coming from the top surface.
I get this sometimes. Adjust the layer width up or down a bit in order to kill the aliasing. It's also not a huge deal in terms of finished strength; I just hate the way it sounds when laying down "jaggies".
Alternatively, use a good slicer instead.
@towe, what a useful comment, if you are going to be condescending at least make an actual suggestion.
My suggestion: Use a slicer that isn't known to produce erratic g-code on round objects. That the most useful it's going to get if you insist on using obsolete software.
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15251 | How to make a replacement belt for Ender 3 v2?
I need to replace one of the belts on my Ender 3 v2. I have ordered the timing belt and crimp ends to make a new belt but I am wondering what is the best way to make a new belt.
I was thinking of making one end of the belt with the crimp end, slotting it in place then running it through the pulleys and pathway until it reaches the other slot. Of course, I would adjust the tensioner to able to tighten the belt. Once I have a taut length, I would cut the belt and add the second crimp end. Finally, reassemble everything and tension the belt accordingly.
Am I missing anything that I should do? Is there a better way to make a belt?
(I opened up one of the "crimps" and it looks to be a 7mm diameter tube that had the belt inserted into it. The crimp was flattened onto the belt then folded in half. The metal is harder than brass or copper. It took considerable effort to open up.)
These are the original belt ends.
There is usually a message printed on belts not to crimp them... Please provide a photo of the old situation (to understand what the old situation was) and the crimped version for people to comment on. I usually make sure the belt is perfectly aligned with the axis and it is clamped in (for a different printer, I usually use a printed toothed attachment piece).
Those are standard crimps and the standard method creality uses. Brass also is known to work harden
You should just be able to print a belt endstop that slides on from the side and matches the belt tooth profile, if you have access to another printer.
I don't have access to another printer. But I will try and find, or make, endstops once I get my printer up and running.
actually... that is brass - brass hardens if bent and crimped.
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15222 | How to choose a stepper motor when building a DIY 3D printer?
I am making a DIY 3D printer and I need to know which stepper motor I should use. I am planning on making an 18x18x18 or 20x20x20 max print size. I am only using a single Z-axis like the Prusa Mini. I am planning on using 1.75 mm filament.
Which stepper motor should I use for my X-, Y-, and Z-axes and the extruder? How do I calculate the power needed? Will 2.8 kg or something near it be enough?
Welcome Leo! you don't need strong stepper motors, I've have made my own with motors like yours. I hope someone else can answer with calculations your question.
Thanks, will 2.5kg.cm steppers work for the x, y, z axis? I forgot to tell, I am using a Bowden extruder to keep the weight on the axis low. Also, can you share which steppers you are using and maybe also a photo of it ☺️
Hi, I checked the prusa mini's github page to find which stepper motor it uses (As mine is inspired and based on it), and it uses 5kg.cm motor! (If I am reading it right), Which is really expensive in my area. So, can I use 2.5kg.cm motors I am planning on using? Yes, my axis(s) will be light weight and will also have secondary supports. Here is the link to the spec sheet: https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-MINI/blob/master/DOCUMENTATION/ELECTRONICS/mini-motor-kit.pdf
Right! 5K motors are better in a bowden extruder but 2.5K will work, I have 2 printers, just be sure to keep extruder temperature above 190°C while extruding.
Oh, Thanks ❤️ I didn't think I can use a 2.5kg one for the extruder. It is going reduce the price alot! Thanks
Am I the only one not understanding what size is meant? 18x18x18 or 20x20x20 max print size; is this in mm, cm, inches? Considering the use of other SI units I would assume the size is expressed in cm.
The size of the stepper is usually determined by the forces it must overcome on the machine (i.e. inertia). Obtaining a powerful stepper motor and then using expensive linear guide rails with high tolerances great axial rigidity is wasteful unless you are trying to achieve something specific (which it seems you are not).
Find the cheapest NEMA17 motor you can from a reputable site and start there.
Most of the work has been done for machines of that size, so you don't need to calculate what's required, you can just look it up online. A 250W @ 24V supply is commonly used on printers of that size. The majority of that power is going into the heated bed. If, however, your environment is so cold that the bed never gets to temp, no matter how long you wait, then it will be time to upgrade that bed to an AC mains heated one.
Hi, really thanks for your answer ❤️ I am not using a het bed as I am trying to make it as cheap as possible, and a het bed will also need a more powerful power supply which will increase the size. So, are you in short saying, a 2.5kg.cm motor is useable as it is the most reasonably priced and cheap motor from amazon
Hello Leo, For a small 3d printer that should be enough. The torque output on the stepper is directly proportional to the power that you put in, without it melting.
Thanks again ❤️ Would giving the power recommend by the seller be ok? I am really worried about the z-axis, will 2.5kg be ok? And also, is 20x20x20 really small for basic use? As, I used a rular to visualise the print volume, and it look small to me (Most likely because I haven't seen a 3D printer in real life as they are really expensive in my area) I am mostly only going to use it for electronics and robotics project that are not very big. Sorry for asking many repetitive questions, I was not able to find answers to these specific questions
You can exceed the voltage since the stepper driver will be proving the current via PWM, it should be fine. Better buy some spares just in case. If the motor gets too hot too quickly then turn down the power in the firmware's configuration.
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15108 | Ender 3 X Axis stops moving mid print at random times, only makes Y movements after
I have an Ender 3 that suddenly starting having an issue. The X-axis belt randomly stops moving when extruding the first layer. It doesn't always stop at the same exact spot, but once it stops, the only movements that are made are back and forth Y-axis movements.
I am able to freely push the carriage back and forth and there does not seem to be any binding. The printer has no issue performing auto home. I've checked all cables multiple times, on the external side and the internal side. The motor does not seem to be very hot if even warm at all. I've even tried swapping SD cards with a known working G-code/printer.
The only thing I haven't tried is swapping out the motor which I can't at the moment all my printers are busy, however, all the threads I've read mention the motor failure is the least likely answer. I'm not sure what would have caused this. All I've recently done is install a new cartridge and thermistor, and everything was working totally fine until I re-leveled my bed a few hours ago, and when I started a new print after leveling this started happening, and was giving me no issues prior. I can't find any similar threads, so I feel pretty hopeless right now.
One thing that would stop the X stepper is if the X-stop limit switch were stuck "on."
The main function of the stop switches on the three axes is to prevent the printer from continuing to attempt to run after reaching "zero" position. If you trip the limit switch, the firmware will decide that you were at the zero for that axis, and offset the rest of the print, but if the switch stays closed, that axis will not move. If I were designing the firmware, I'd probably command a couple steps movement toward positive in the affected axis, check if the switch has opened, and if not stop with an alert -- but especially in older 8-bit board versions of the Ender 3 there was a shortage of space for firmward features (they infamously also lack thermal runaway protection for this exact reason).
Therefore, check if the X limit switch (under the QR code label, just below the X rail) has gotten jammed; if not, unplug its cable and check with a continuity tester or multimeter to be sure it doesn't have an internal problem with the same result.
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13790 | What are pros and cons of piezo Vs strain gauges bed leveling sensors?
I'm designing a dual hotend carriage for a HEVO printer that will run in an enclosed heated chamber and I'm evaluating which bed leveling sensor I should use.
I read that BLTouch and similar sensors stop working in a hot environment, and likewise, capacitive and inductive sensors are affected significantly. Piezo and strain gauges (force-sensitive resistors) are my choices.
What are the differences in practice? Both related to the heated chamber (70+ °C) and in general at room temperature.
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13676 | First layer rippling and no filament in certain areas
I'm new to 3D printing and I noticed some problems with my print.
I've printed it 3 times and releveled the bed. Now, I found that the right lower corner always has holes,
and some stringing problems
Lastly, the place where there should be a full line suddenly becomes string-like, and it always happens at the same place.
It's like my extruder pulls out the filament or fails to create filament in the area that should be filled with filament. Is it normal or did I set my printer wrong? I'm afraid it might cause holes in my new print.
There's also some stringing problem that causes the layer to be uneven.
Slicer: Cura 4.6
Settings:
My printer is Anycubic 4Max Pro
Please share what slicer you're using and relevant settings, especially speed, retraction, and temperature. Since you mention stringing, that's likely the root cause of the underextrusion in the corner there - any stringing is material lost in one place that then doesn't get deposited in the place it was supposed to go, and it's usually caused by wrong retraction settings (wrong = off or too low, in most cases).
Anycubic 4Max Pro appears to be a direct drive printer (extruder motor is right on top of hotend). The 6.5 mm retraction on in your slicer settings is more typical of a Bowden setup, where the extruder motor lives off of the moving carriage, and has to move extra to compensate for slack in the tube to the hotend. Direct drive retraction distance is typically 1 mm to 3 mm. I bet you can retract faster than 25 mm/s- the speed matters. Also, 60 mm/s travel speed is quite slow. 150 mm/s is typical. Faster travel means less time to ooze.
Your initial layer print speed of 20mm/s is good, slow slow makes the first layer stick better. I don’t see your 1st layer thickness setting, but I have had good success with using a thick first layer with a chunky, wide line width (like 150% of nozzle size), even if the following layers are fine. The idea being that more plastic and height in the initial layer makes it less temperamental as far as bed leveling goes, and it holds together nicely.
The cobweb-like lines are from the Combing Mode setting in Cura, that ignores the retraction when traveling through infill. Unfortunately there is a setting that also ignores retraction on the bottom layer, you want to change that under “combing mode” it is set to “not in skin”, or combing is set to off.
I see this is an old post but I type anyway if someone else stumbles up in here with the same problem.
First of all, I have a Qidi X-max printer and it printed exactly as in the picture. I am not 100 percent sure because pictures don't tell everything. I googled it very hard to find people that had the same issue. I only find this but it didn't help me so much.
I took apart my printing head on the machine, it is built with a direct extruder. I found some screws were not tightened and the block was a bit loose. I could screw it in 1 whole turn. After that, I cleaned the gear for the extruder so all the old filament was gone. There was not much filament but better do it properly. After that, I screwed all back and it was gone. I can't say for sure what was the exact cause. But if I have to guess I think it was because of not having properly tightened screws. This problem occurred every time when it was starting a new layer. It was not squeezing properly from the beginning and after maybe 3-4 mm everything squeezing as it should. New layers and seams were affected by this. Holes at the beginning of the layer and holes in seams. I also tried increasing the temp and flow. Flow helped a little but not much. So check all the screws. The ones I found were holding the print head. If that doesn't help do as I did and see if that fixes the problem.
From the wispy horizontal lines within the perimeters in your second image, it appears that the nozzle is still oozing material during the travel moves. This is likely causing the hole in the corner and the wispy perimeters too. When the extruder reinserts the filament into the hotend after a travel move, it expects the same amount of material to be in the nozzle as when it extracted the filament, but some material has oozed out during the travel move so that is not the case. I had a similar issue with my printer, and was able to mitigate the problem by increasing the retraction extra prime amount in the material section of Cura. This should compensate for the material loss during the travel move by reinserting the filament slightly farther when starting the extrusion. This solution is not perfect as different lengths of travel allow different volumes of filament to ooze from the nozzle. If you want perfect prints, you may have to tune this to the model you are printing: larger models usually require larger travel moves which would allow more time for plastic to ooze from the nozzle.
If you try this, make sure to look for blobs at the start of extrude moves. If the prime amount is set to high, it can create blobs on the side of the model (or inside depending on which perimeter is extruded first) which could cause tolerance issues on more complex parts.
Personally, I have also added a small coast distance to the end of each extrusion (located in Cura's experimental section). This allows the nozzle to ooze into the perimeter of the part which should decrease the stringing on travel moves, and thus loss of material on travel moves.
This is all hacks to try to work around a problem that's entirely eliminated by correct use of retraction.
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13627 | Bricked Mks Rumba+ Board after Power Supply Trouble
This is my first time posting on this forum, so bear with me:
This is my first attempt at a RepRap project, and my go-to board has been the RepRapDiscount MKS Rumba+ since I wanted to have functionality with the Makerbase TFT28 Touch-Screen Display. The printer that I have been converting is a 3D Systems Cube 3rd generation. I have successfully modified the printer to accommodate my board and electronics, but have had many issues finding a power supply up to the task of driving the steppers and the heaters (my most recent attempt was using the Makerbase PWC 2.0 auto-off module
I followed all of the connections to the letter, looking at numerous forums to verify everything was correct, connections were very tight, modifying the original supply cord. My printer powered up and everything functioned properly, except there was no way to turn it off after initially turning it on (M80 and M81 had no effect). I read on the above link that I had to change my value on PS_SUPPLY to 2 and add a PS_ON_PIN in Marlin (not sure to which one on a Rumba+), which I was to perform. However, when I tried to upload my revised firmware through USB, for whatever reason my USB port was not responding at all when I plugged it into my computer (it doesn't show up in device manager anymore either, which is strange since I was able to upload an updated firmware sketch less than a week ago), although everything that was previously on my board was still there, and hence I had a functional printer board.
Unfortunately, I convinced myself that in order to make the changes I needed to get my PWC module to work as intended, I needed to get the updated firmware onto the board somehow. So I looked up forums regarding the original Rumba (I couldn't find nearly any regarding Rumba+) on how to program it through using a USBasp programmer, which involved converting a ten-pin ribbon cable to a six-wire ISCP connection on the Rumba+. I paid extra-close attention when wiring these, following a diagram outlining where to connect each of the six wires detailed in the following YouTube video at 4:25.
I then selected "USBasp" as my programmer, and attempted to upload this way. I could see my Rumba+ responding, which gave me hope, but then the upload failed. Unfortunately, as I was to later learn, uploading via ISP also undoes the bootloader pre-configured into the board; and thus, I also managed to brick my board amidst all of this trouble.
I have been searching every forum possible, reading about ten Instructables on how to undo a bricked printer board (none for Rumba+, but for other ATmega2560-based boards, so I tried to work off of them). (I have since removed my power supply). I have used both my USBasp and my Arduino Uno as ISP, and tried using the guidance provided by Nick Gammon at http://www.gammon.com.au/bootloader, which seemed to re-download the bootloader according to the sketch, but all of my attempts to re-upload the Marlin firmware have still failed. My most recent error has been:
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer
In my experience, this error has been very vague in what it entails, and I'm inclined to believe that my USB-to-serial ATMega16U2 was damaged when I powered on using the Mks PWC (I suspect this because I don't recall any issues prior-to using the MKS pwc), though I read that the Rumba board does occasionally have this issue at random. My question is that am I on the right track in trying to restore my board through ISP via my Uno and/or UsbAsp, or is my board damaged beyond repair and unuseable? I can live with not having a serial connection to my board via USB (since I have a wifi module for my TFT28 display), I just need to find a way to get Marlin back onto my Rumba+ (I will resolve the power supply issues later).
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13294 | Prusa slicer and support material
I usually use Slic3r 1.3 but now I'm trying the new PrusaSlicer 2.2 that offers new features.
I see that PrusaSlicer creates a lot of support material when compared to Slic3r:
this involves two problems:
A lot of material is wasted
The structure is very difficult to separate from the model
This is my configuration panel in Prusa:
Is it just a settings problem?
The danger of the pillar style support structures is that they have a far higher risk of falling over, while the PruseSlicer support structure is more solid. I think that, in the end, wasting a single print because of failed pillar support takes more filament than printing with a little more filament each print.
@0scar: That analysis is less convincing once you factor in that the excessive support probably doubles print time unless you use options that harm quality of the part being printed (eg skipping retraction during support causes underextrusion after moving back to print the part).
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE Not really, the OP shows an example, the support is completely configurable, it can be way less using the proper settings. But this is very subjective, hence not an answer but a comment. We've had 1 kg PETG print failures with Cura (pillar type) support; would have loved to put in a 100 grams extra then I wouldn't have had to print another kg for the re-print.
I agree with @0scar here. You can waist a little extra material for a higher probability of print success, or run the higher risk of print failure with the other, which would waste a lot of material, for both support and part. Sometimes the waste is worth the rewards.
Do you have print- time estimates for these two slices? I agree with the others that wasting a few cents' worth of filament is not an issue. Time and reliability are the key issues.
@CarlWitthoft I don't have estimates for those prints but this was just a too simple test. If you have to print something big I think time and material increasing proportionally. In this test, the object stops with a simple bridge between those two circular columns; Prusa Slicer generates a structure can support 5 Kg over it. I agree with you all, the key is the result, but, in my opinion, I have to be free to choose the amount of support to generate.
In this way I am led to use two tools: one for small parts (Slic3r) and one for large prints.
In my opinion, PrusaSlicer aims for the most robust printing process at the cost of a higher demand for material in the standard configuration.
I totally agree with @0scar that the small pillars have a high tendency of falling over with increasing height of the print.
To handle the waste of material you could use the feature "Paint-On Supports" (since version 2.3) to tell the software where support material has to be used. The feature can be found on the left panel while on "3D-Editor View". This is an extra step to prepare your model, but to speed up your post-processing I think it should be worth it. Prusa improved the modifier by "you get what you click".
If you want to stay in Version 2.2, I think you have to use the generic modifiers, which are a lot more time-consuming to set up.
Paint-on supports @Prusa Knowledge Base
Additionally for those who may not know, (I'm fully aware this post is a few years old) there are improvements that come with PrusaSlicer 2.6 in terms of options for cutting prints along a plane, adding pegs to those cut prints and organic supports, just for those who may not be aware.
Additional details can be found in the article from Tom's Hardware "New Features Added to PrusaSlicer 2.6 Alpha Release".
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3582 | Where to find Z coordinate in G-code for Delta printer
I´m currently writing my own firmware for a custom Delta printer. Therefore I also need to read G-code from programs like Slic3r. Even with a small example like a cube, I´m struggling to find out where the Z-coordinate is hidden in the code. Here is a small example of the code.
; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2017-02-13 at 15:08:01
; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.58mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.58mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.58mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.58mm
M107
M104 S205 ; set temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
M109 S205 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G92 E0
G1 Z0.500 F7800.000
G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000
G92 E0
G1 X-31.893 Y0.000 F7800.000
G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000
G1 X-31.893 Y-25.001 E3.57871 F1800.000
G1 X-31.496 Y-27.307 E3.72646
G1 X-30.350 Y-29.347 E3.87420
G1 X-28.588 Y-30.886 E4.02194
G1 X-26.413 Y-31.748 E4.16968
G1 X-25.000 Y-31.894 E4.25936
G1 X25.000 Y-31.894 E7.41663
G1 X27.306 Y-31.497 E7.56437
G1 X29.346 Y-30.351 E7.71211 F1800.000
G1 X30.885 Y-28.589 E7.85985
G1 X31.746 Y-26.414 E8.00759
G1 X31.893 Y-25.001 E8.09727
G1 X31.893 Y25.001 E11.25470
G1 X31.496 Y27.307 E11.40244
G1 X30.350 Y29.347 E11.55019
G1 X28.588 Y30.886 E11.69793
G1 X26.413 Y31.748 E11.84567
G1 X25.000 Y31.894 E11.93535
G1 X-25.000 Y31.894 E15.09262
G1 X-27.306 Y31.497 E15.24036
G1 X-29.346 Y30.351 E15.38810
G1 X-30.885 Y28.589 E15.53584
G1 X-31.746 Y26.414 E15.68358
G1 X-31.893 Y25.001 E15.77326
G1 X-31.893 Y0.075 E17.34724
G1 E15.34724 F2400.00000
G92 E0
G1 X-22.715 Y-22.716 F7800.000
G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000
G1 X22.715 Y-22.716 E4.86865 F1800.000
G1 X22.715 Y22.716 E7.73745
G1 X-22.715 Y22.716 E10.60609
G1 X-22.715 Y-22.641 E13.47016
G1 X-23.607 Y-23.609 F7800.000
G1 X23.607 Y-23.609 E16.45155 F1800.000
G1 X23.607 Y23.608 E19.43309
G1 X-23.607 Y23.608 E22.41447
G1 X-23.607 Y-23.534 E25.39128
G1 X-24.500 Y-24.501 F7800.000
G1 X24.500 Y-24.501 E28.48541 F1800.000
G1 X24.500 Y24.501 E31.57969
G1 X-24.500 Y24.501 E34.67382
G1 X-24.500 Y-24.426 E37.76336
Here are some configuration details:
G-code flavor: RepRap
Nozzle diameter: 0,5 mm
Filament diameter: 3 mm
Layer height: 0,4 mm
Perimeters: 3
Solid layers top: 3
Solid layers bottom: 3
I will also provide the full G-code.
It isn't hidden at all. It's just that the Z-axis position only changes with each layer change, so the Z coordinate is only passed at layer change. On line 19 of your example G-code, it starts the first layer at Z=0.5mm:
G1 Z0.500 F7800.000
The next time you should expect Z to appear is on the next layer.
Your included code has a line which reads:
G1 Z0.500
I checked a couple of my G-code files for some of the past prints and I was able to identify the bed movement relative to the layer being printed. My slicer (Simplify3D) provides for the bed to drop during certain movements. I found G1 Z0.600 followed by G1 Z0.850 for one of the layers. When that layer was finished the 0.600 changed to 0.900 and the 0.850 changed to 1.150.
This fit in with the model's layer height of 0.300 mm for that job.
I did not find more G1 Zx.xxx codes in your sample, but a larger file would contain those lines.
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5077 | Prusa i3 Mk2 (RepRapGuru kit) stops extruding mid-layer
So I've been fighting with this all weekend, figured I'd see if others have suggestions.
When I attempt to print, my printer will go just fine until about the halfway point on a layer, then there'll be a section (almost the same point on the layer for the cube or a couple of other smaller prints I tried) that doesn't extrude. Once the next layer starts, it'll be fine until about halfway again. I kicked off a quick cube print to take pictures of layer 1:
The second layer will do something similar about halfway but covers the section that had an issue in the first layer.
I've tried cleaning and rebalancing the plate multiple times, just picked up a new plate to try (will be here in two days), have completely swapped the tube and nozzle on the hot end, and have played with the temperature. The layers look great for that first half at 195 °C with a 70 °C bed. Extruder stepper motor works when set from the prepare option screen. The nozzle is 2 mm and have it set properly in slic3r (using the Repertoire 3D printing program). Does anyone have any other suggestions for getting this to work properly?
It looks like your extruder temperature is too low and/or you are trying to print too fast. Are you really using a 0.2mm nozzle? If so, you may need to increase you extruder temperature, and possibly lower the speed.
I'll give that a shot. I had it going really slowly before, but I'll try combining slower speeds with a higher temp. And yeah, .2mm nozzle. Swapped it with that one this morning and it has it etched into the side.
The smaller the nozzle size, the harder it is to push filament through it. Also, filament cools down much more quickly. This means printing hotter and slower than you normally would with a 0.4mm nozzle.
Ran through with a super low speed and temp set to 205. Same issue at the same point. Seems like the extruder motor stops pushing around there. https://youtu.be/3TZu9_eREMU
Up the temperature even more. My normal printing speed with PLA is 215°C, and that is with a 0.4mm nozzle.
Alright I upped the temperature, saw the same problem, so I disassembled the extruder to run through manually moving it. Looks like the driver for it has gone bad, since it looks like I can't actually turn that motor directly, but if I plug it into the X, Y or Z connection, it turns. Thanks for the help! :)
@PaulRuiz if you solved the problem, would you consider adding the solution as an answer?
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4829 | Extruder motor not functioning after G29 command
On my Anet A8 3 printer, running Skynet. When I do not use the G29 command, Auto Bed Level, the printer won't print and just extrudes plastic in mid-air. But when I do use the G29 command it will home and start to print but no plastic will come out. The extruder motor and the connector both work. Does anyone know what the problem might be?
Here is the start G-code I use:
G28 X0 Y0
G28 Z0
G29
M190 S50 ;set bed temp (wait)
M109 S200 ;set head temp (wait)
; ------------------------------------
; Layer #0
; ------------------------------------
G21 ; mm
G90 ; abs
G92 E0 ; reset extr
M106 S0
;segType:Skirt
G0 F4800 E-1.0000
G0 F300 Z0.200
G0 X110.546 Y71.485 F9000
G0 F4800 E0.0000
Probably inside the code there is a wrong parameter or the secuence is not correct, you should post here some initial lines to start printing to verify.
Have you found and fixed the problem? You may even add your own solution and accept that after 48 hours! If you have not been able to address the problem please update your question. Thanks!
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4521 | Single point Z-correction after 3-point auto-leveling
On my Monoprice Delta Mini, auto-leveling is performed based on three pushbuttons, on which the printer platform rests: The nozzle moves downwards until one of the buttons detects being pushed down. Using the G29 G-code, this is performed automatically at three points close to the locations of these sensor buttons.
However, even after this calibration, the printer expects the platform at one of the test points to be lower than it actually is. Thus, when printing close to the front right sensor button, the printer "smears" the plastic onto the platform. At the other locations, the printing works fine. Therefore, I cannot simply adjust the overall Z-distance. (Multi-point auto-leveling gives even worse results since the platform tilts during the probing.)
Is there a G-code-based option to modify the Z-height of just one of the calibration points of the auto-leveling?
Edit: The bad leveling seems to be a common problem of this printer:
https://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/73xcxg/leveling_doesnt_seem_right/
https://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/6tqe7f/follow_up_on_bed_leveling_issue/
Till now, nobody seems to have a solution.
There is no "standard" g-code, especially for the auxiliary functions of calibration, and even more so for the calibration of delta-class printers. I find that the Reprap Wiki includes a fairly comprehensive list: http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Firmware_G-Codes and http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code. These lists address the RepRap firmware, although they include some g-code functions which are specific to other types of applications.
If the Monoprice Delta firmware is based on the RepRap firmware, the lists might be helpful, although detailed documention from Monoprice would be the best reference.
Assuming there is no available or known g-code to adjust this, you work from the hypothesis that your three switches are not responding identically. If possible, use a micrometer to measure the difference between the "idle" position of the bed and the point where the switch actuates. It could be that the front switch requires more travel before actuation, which would then cause the leveling calculation to have a lower point for the front switch. In the alternative to measuring, it may be possible to exchange the front switch with a rear/side switch and see if the problem moves.
Delta machines are more difficult to calibrate because everything interacts. The three actuator delta machine is a simplification of a more complex 6-axis Stewart platform. As I see it, a delta machine is a 6-actuator machine in which pairs of actuators operate "identically", except that minor variations cause unexpected positioning errors. Sometimes these are modeled as a bowl shape with positive or negative curvature, although measurements I've made on my home-brew delta show an error that looks more like a carpet in a high wind. Some factors improve the design, such as longer actuator arm pairs and smaller build diameter, which may help you with the Monoprice.
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5961 | Finding a shredder for my failed prints
I would love to re-use my failed prints by re-extruding the plastic to be used in the 3D printer once again. One thing that stands in my way is finding an effective way to shred the plastic into smaller bits for the extrude to use. What is a good thing to look for to accomplish this? Maybe a really big 'paper' shredder?
LMGTFY produces several pages selling shredders and tools which re-extrude filament.
form what i've seen in youtube/forums it's not worth it. Making filament is hard because you have to nail the temp, extrusion pressure+speed, support the soft hot wet filament without drooping (which warps it) or sliding (which flattens it). Any variations in temp or speed will screw up the diameter. Any variations in scrap density will affect the temp and pressure. It's as complicated as nailing prints. Then you need to consider the effect that skin grease, dust, and other debris has on layer adhesion and uniformity. All in all it's not worth the time, equipment, or labor, at least not yet.
@dandavis You have a vary valid point, which is why I am still looking at doing this. I just watched some videos myself and it is indeed difficult from what I have seen. I just can't wait for something to come out that is simple to use and produces usable filament. I just hate not being able to re-use failed prints and knowing I could turn soda bottles into usually filament sounds great, but like you said its costly, time consuming, and difficult.
there is a project called precious plastic and there is a plastic shredder, but it is a rather expensive solution.
As I am waiting for parts for my Lyman extruder, my plan is to hammer the parts and then process in old kitchen robot with steel working area, an example here
The paper shredder will be ok as long as you can feed it with plastic.
I looked at the plastic shredder and darn it is rather pricey, but does look effective. I might do something similar to what your talking otherwise, for I don't make enough waste plastic to justify buying such a tool. But thank you for sharing that with me for it is a neat product.
The "plastic shredder" link is dead now.
I'm in the same boat as you, was contemplating spending $2000 on a shredder, and I was inspired by this RepRap article "Plastic Shredder using Kitchen Blender".
In which someone cleverly reminds us that thermoplastics melt. Put them on a baking tray on baking paper:
Melt them in the oven at a high temperature until they're pancakes:
The link puts them in a kitchen blender, but I've had success with a $70 micro-cut paper shredder from a local office supply store. The plastic puddles have a thin edge, which helps them fit into a shredder rated for "5 sheets of A4 at a time" (suggesting 0.3 mm max) but can process about 2 mm thick plastic if it gets a good lead-in.
The micro-cut particles it puts out are smaller than the PLA beads. I do mix recycled and virgin plastic together in varying ratios but mixing them evenly (especially with the dye beads) is tricky - it's very hard to get precise even colouring.
At 1.25 g/cc, 1 kg of PLA in an oven dish ~A4 sized is about 1.4 cm thick. So, aiming for about 100 g of plastic per dish will get you blobs averaging 1.4 mm. That fits through the shredder fine. 10 blobs make 1 kg of filament.
The only issue I have with the cheap office shredder is when you feed something slightly too thick in, occasionally the teeth deform the plastic into a chunk too big to fit into the shredder for a second pass, so that piece needs to go back into the melt queue.
Are there any issues with fumes from doing this?
@RockPaperLz-MaskitorCasket: PLA should not have any fumes issues whatsoever, but of course a lot of PLA is not actually PLA but some mystery blend. At least there are pigments (except in translucent natural color) but most "PLA" seems to contain at least some small part ABS or other acetone-soluble material, judging from what happens if you try putting acetone in a vessel made of printed "PLA"...
Have you checked the power cost? Might be interesting to see the cost of power for all this.
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6576 | What kinds of gaps/tolerances should I use when designing pieces that fit together?
Let's say I'm modeling a simple box with a lid. Just as an example, we'll say the outer edge along the top of the box is 50 mm x 50 mm. With 3D modeling software, it's easy to build a lid for this box to surround the top with an inner edge size of also exactly 50 mm x 50 mm ...but this seems like a bad idea. Surely I'll want some kind of of gap, to ensure an easy on/off. An exact fit seems like it's asking for trouble.
How much gap do we leave for this kind of thing?
Is it related to nozzle size?
I suppose it also matters how tightly you want to fit, though I expect in cases where a tight fit matters some kind of snap or clip would be used.
Are draft prints with larger layer sizes useful for figuring this, or do the rough layers make things seem tighter than they'll be in a final print?
There's always the "print and then file to fit" approach, but I wouldn't recommend it
0.4 mm is enough to fit the parts, 0.6 to get disassembled easily.
It depends also on the slicer: Prusaslicer has XY shrinkage to compensate for it https://youtu.be/q8U2vaUdz-U?t=314
I use my clearance values according to my rule of thumb: 0.1 mm - to fit with some force, 0.2 mm - just fit edge to edge without force.
Examples:
3 mm metal cylinder to be pressed into plastic part needs $3\ mm+0.1\ mm*2=3.2\ mm$ diameter printed hole (clearance from two sides)
3 mm screw to fit into plastic part needs a hole bigger than $3\ mm+0.2\ mm*2=3.4\ mm$ that is 3.5 mm will be already good.
This is fully experimental but always worked for me on three different printers and both on PLA and ABS.
While I agree with the numerical values, you need to keep in mind that printer's tollerance. Thicker Extrusion needs more tollerance.
Before we get into nozzle sizes and snap fits, let's start with the bigger picture. We need to use a common language for defining the parts.
Allowance is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value.
Clearance is an allowance defining the intentional space between two parts.
Interference is an allowance defining the intentional overlap between two parts.
Tolerance is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension. How much error can the part tolerate and still function?
Let's use an example. We want a 5 mm pin to go into a 5 mm hole, and we want a loose fit between them.
We've said 5 mm, but which 5 mm is more important -- the 5 mm hole or the 5 mm pin? Let's say other people have 5 mm pins they want to use with our hole. In this case the pin dimension is out of our control, and therefore is more important for interoperability.
The loose fit is calling for clearance. Let's specify 0.2 mm so they're free to turn.
We could add the 0.2 mm allowance to the hole, giving a 5.2 mm hole with a 5.0 mm pin; we could subtract the 0.2 mm allowance from the pin, giving a 5.0 mm hole with a 4.8 mm pin; or split the difference in any way we want, such as a 5.1 mm hole and a 4.9 mm pin. Because we specified the pin is more important, we'll add the allowance to the hole.
Now that we have defined our part, let's define other terms important to helping us understand the manufacturing process:
Accuracy is the maximum dimensional variation between parts. (Another word might be repeatability.) Note that a machine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy.
Precision is the size of the steps a machine is capable of. Precision is often confused with accuracy, but they are not the same thing.
Now we need to understand our machine's accuracy. The printer could print the pin larger than 5 mm or smaller than 5 mm. Or it could print the hole larger than 5 mm or smaller than 5 mm. To determine the printer's accuracy, we'll need to print some 5 mm pins and 5 mm holes and measure the differences between what we defined and what we printed. The difference between the largest and smallest measurements is our machine's accuracy. Be sure to measure the accuracy in the X, Y, and Z dimensions; a printer might have a difference between the X and Y axes that would affect the roundness of the parts. (If it's off, this can usually be adjusted in the machine's firmware through a calibration process.) Furthermore, we should test round parts, round holes, square parts, and square holes, as each printer can be different in how repeatable those parts are.
Let's say that the printer's measured accuracy for both round holes and round pins is +/- 0.2 mm.
Then, we move to clearance. What is the minimum gap between parts that still does the job, and what is the maximum acceptable gap? As the designer, it's up to you to decide. In this example we said we want a loose fit, so let's define a clearance of at least 0.2 mm between the pin and hole, but no more than 1.0 mm or the parts will fall out.
Since the machine's accuracy is +/-0.2 mm, the pin will be anywhere between 5.2 mm and 4.8 mm. The hole must therefore be the maximum pin size, 5.2 mm, plus clearance plus the accuracy of the hole. That gives the hole dimension as 5.6 mm +/-0.2 mm. The minimum tolerance condition would be a minimum-sized hole (5.4 mm) and a maximum-sized pin (5.2 mm), giving a 0.2 mm clearance; the maximum tolerance would be a maximum-sized hole (5.8 mm) and a minimum-sized pin (4.8 mm) giving a 1.0 mm clearance.
Note that a clearance of 1.0 mm is really sloppy. It might be way too loose for our application. We might think to tighten the tolerances to 0.05 mm in order to reduce the clearance. But we've noted that a machine can't produce a tolerance tighter than its accuracy. If the printer can't produce a part that meets our specified tolerances, we would need to find a different way to manufacture or finish the parts.
In the metalworking world, a common way to do this is to specify the parts to be initially manufactured with intentionally maximal material. This lets us start with a smaller hole and use a bore or a drill bit to open it up to a more precise and round hole. We can do the same thing with a pin, by starting with a thicker rod and turning or grinding it down to make it more smooth and round.
In the FDM 3D printing world, we can do the same kind of thing at the workbench. First, print the parts with an extra wall layer (or two). The extra thickness gives more material to remove while drilling it out, or grinding it down, without weakening the part too badly. After printing, run a drill bit through the hole to clean it up. Or spin the pin in a drill motor's chuck and grind it down with a loop of sandpaper.
Of course, any time you add a finishing operation, it's more labor-intensive and therefore more expensive. So this isn't something we want to do on every part, but we can consider it.
Notice that when you define parts this way you aren't starting with the nozzle diameter or layer height. Instead, you're allowing the nozzle diameter, layer height, belt stretch, and the sum of all the causes of variations to show up in the measured accuracy of the machine. Smaller nozzles, thinner layers, heated beds, slower speeds, or cooling fans may each contribute to improved accuracy, allowing you to print parts with tighter tolerances. But to make successful prints you need to factor in the cumulative impact of all the machine's options.
Once you've got the terminology, it will be much more clear how to factor in an allowance for half the width of the extruded material, which is a function of nozzle width, extrusion rate, and layer height.
Yes, some clearance is necessary. Even if you were machining perfect metal parts, you would want a clearance gap (and make an allowance for mis-alignment along the Z axis too, long joints can bind quite easily).
In addition to this, you need to make a small allowance for the walls bulging slightly under the extrusion pressure (layer height being less than the nozzle diameter).
Other factors to take into account are layer-change ooze (which often makes a small seam appear), and ripple effects resulting from acceleration. This means that even once you have tested the gap that a specific model requires on your printer, you can't rely on the same gap working perfectly when you design another model. If you require rotational symmetry in your fit, it will be harder to get a good tight joint to be reliable.
Sometimes a print-in-place design can give you a similar effect to a clip together design, but permitting a more positive retention
Short version: basically, this depends on your printer, make, model, type, state of maintenance, extruder, slicer settings, belt tension, play, friction, etc.
Long version: Basically your printer determines how accurate it prints; you can influence the accuracy a little by calibrating and fine tuning the printer. What regularly is done is to print calibration cubes of fixed size. Before you do that, you should read "How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?"; this explains to calibrate the extruder. With a fine tuned extruder you could print those XYZ calibration cubes, or in your case create a box of e.g. 50 x 50 x 15 mm. When you measure the length and the width with a caliper, you will know how much the tolerances are for this print size. Eventually, you could change this by re-adjusting the steps per mm in the firmware of the printer, but this is not always a recommendation (as your steps per mm should be related to the mechanical layout of the used mechanism, e.g. the belt size and pitch in combination with the pulley and the stepper resolution).
Please also look into the answer of "How to make moving parts not stick together?"; this answer hints to printing a tolerance calibration model that uses diabolic shapes set apart from the outer object by several values for the offset between the pieces. When you print this you can find out what sort of tolerance works for you. Please do note that the tolerances on smaller parts may be different than the tolerances on larger parts.
The answer on your question thus depends on your 3D printing machine, but usually the tolerance values range in the few tenths of a millimeter. To enable a lid on top of a box like in your example, you need to keep the tolerance in mind when designing the lid. Usually an extra few tenths of a millimeter will do the trick, but if you make some test prints first you will know exactly.
To answer the question what the influence is of layer height on tolerance, I quote:
Load a 25 mm cube into your slicer and set the infill to 0%,
perimeters to 1, and top solid layers to 0. You’ll also want to print
it at a fine resolution – I chose 0.15 mm and it actualy did make a
small (0.02 mm) difference in the wall thickness as opposed to 0.3 mm.
So yes the layer height has an effect, it is very little though.
An interesting read is "A Guide to Understanding the Tolerances of Your 3D Printer" from "matterhackers".
Furthermore, when you have calibrated the printer but still run into small deviations, is that most slicers will allow you to compensate for X and Y dimensions.
worth mentioning XY compensation https://youtu.be/q8U2vaUdz-U?t=314
After printing 4 months, I've learned an answer for at least two situations, based on the geometry of the filament and nozzle. For this discussion, I'm using .1mm layers with a .4mm nozzle.
First is the basic box and lid, from my question. It's important to remember the shape of the nozzle opening is a circle, and therefore when extruding to open air you get a cylinder. But we don't extrude to open air. We subtly press the extruded filament into the build surface or previous layer. In that case, using my best ascii art, a cross section of an extruded line of filament has rounded edges that only approximate that .4mm nozzle size, like this:
( )
And as you lay down several layers, the exterior edge of a printed part should look more like this:
(
(
(
(
where the outer edge of the curve actually protrudes slightly from the planned dimensions of the part. The question is, "how much"? My experience so far has been as much as 0.05 mm. And remember, you need to account for that for both the box part and the lid part. Additionally, when designing the lid, you need to account for this gap on both ends of each dimensional axis. That means a gap of as much as 0.2 mm could still be a nice, snug fit.
For the second scenario, let's say you have a pair of prints that will fit together. The base print includes an upward-pointing rod or cylinder, like a Lego piece, that will slot into a paired opening.
Now you need to create the matching cylinder opening in the upper part, and you need to know how big. The concern is the top of the opening, which has nothing but air below it to hold up the filament. For small gaps you might bridge the distance. For larger gaps you might use support material or hemisphere top.
Let's say you find those options difficult for this scenario, or perhaps other factors have you printing this part laying sideways. so instead of an opening for a cylinder sitting like a can of soup, you print the part as is the cylinder were laying on it's side.
Now we can consider the geometry of how the filament is laid down. With my example nozzle and layer dimensions, we realize your opening is not the precise circle indicated by the model. Instead, you have a grid pattern, like old 8-bit computer art. Worse, the width of each "pixel" is up to 4 times greater than the height.
With that in mind, the minimum extra space you need will be 1/2 of that 0.1 mm height, and the wrong situation could extend this to as much as 1/2 of the 0.4 mm filament width. And since this goes all the way around the part (on both sides) you need these distances twice. This is in addition to the ridging effect discussed for the box earlier. The result means your rounded part should look for between a gap between 0.3 mm and 0.5 mm, with additional gap space if you're designing a part you may want to scale at some point. Remember, though, that plastic is pliable and if push comes to (literal) shove, sandable. In practice I've done well near the lower end of that range.
My approach has always been that I'm going to lose material when I sand down the item to remove layer lines, so I generally print to exact fit, and then manually correct with sandpaper or a craft knife.
I usually print a test cube with different wall thicknesses and calculate the average deviation. This I use as tolerance. However, I do not believe that many belt driven cartesian printers can perform much better than +/- 0.1 to 0.25 mm along the XY-axis. Consequently, I would suggest to use something between 0.1 to 0.25 mm. If it is more than 0.5 mm you have an issue with the mechanics.
I have achieved a 0.05 with a 0.2mm nozzle on a straight line. With a 0.1mm nozzle, this would be a trivial task.
Try it in a rect-wave pattern. This tests the mechanics.
Since you said nozzle, I expect you mean FDM 3d printing. Typically you would use one (1) outline of gap between the parts. An outline is usually equal to the size of the nozzle. The corners of a 3d printed square object are rounded. The radius of that rounding would be half your nozzle diameter (i.e. the nozzle's radius). Also if there was any over extrusion occurring on the outline it the two parts would not fit within each other. This is of course assuming that they are being designed to easily come apart. Otherwise you can make them an exact fit if you intend to friction fit them together.
1 is playing it Safe. 0.5 nozzles is doable on a not too well calibrated printer. 0.25 nozzles is achieveable, 0.125 nozzles a wet dream with a 0.4mm nozzle. The 0.05mm gap ist a pain to get with a 0.2 mm nozzle, but just a PITA
Start with your nozzle width for a prototype. I made some 50-80 mm jars with screw-on lids using a 0.4 mm nozzle. I could get the threads to start using 0.15 \$slop parameter (BOSL2 scad library trapezoidal thread at pitch 5 or 6) but couldn't get past 1/4 turn. With 0.4 $slop it turned loosely with just a little bit of play and tightened up nicely.
There are obviously a bunch of parameters that will affect the actual clearance, but nozzle width seems like an excellent rule of thumb for a draft.
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16308 | Laptop keycaps for Asus UX31A
I broke 2 keys (i.e. left ctrl, enter) on my Asus UX31A laptop and it seems that this model is too old to find replacement keys.
Is there any way I can find a 3D model of the needed keys to have them 3D printed?
I do not have a printer nor I have any experience in this field.
What I need is either someone that has models for these or that can point me where I can find such models.
This is more off-topic as an answer, but serves as a possible solution.
Replacementlaptopkeys.com is a resource that appears to have keycaps for the model you've noted.
https://www.replacementlaptopkeys.com/asus-zenbook-ux31a-db71-laptop-keys-replacement-dark-brown-black/
At seven dollars a key, it's going to be less expensive than 3D printing to accomplish your objective.
If you owned a 3D printer, it would not be less expensive to purchase, but the work involved would increase your cost to have such keys commissioned. As a 3D printed object, the strength is going to be less than a keycap purchased from the linked site.
You're better off if you can get the key from Fred's link. I was impressed by the detail of a 3D-printed battery cover for electronic calipers, but I'm sure it took much work to get it right. Also, ebay has keyboards for your model.
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16360 | Receive M114 command while printing using Printrun
I'm working on a project for which I use the Printrun package to serial communicate my G-code to my 3D printer (Creality Ender 3, Marlin firmware). The idea is that I have an external button connected to an Arduino such that whenever I press this button, the M114 command should be sent and I want to receive the nozzle Z-position.
At the moment the code looks like this:
from printrun.printcore import printcore
from printrun import gcoder
# some code for button
import serial
import time
arduino = serial.Serial(port = 'COM5', baudrate = 9600, timeout = 0.1)
def Button():
data = arduino.readline()
time.sleep(0.05)
return data
printer = printcore('COM4',115200)
gcode=[i.strip() for i in open('MyCode.gcode')]
gcode = gcoder.LightGCode(gcode)
printer.startprint(gcode)
button = Button()
if button == b'1':
printer.pause()
print(printer.send_now("M114"))
printer.resume()
The code is running but I don't get any information about the outcome of the M114 command when I press the button.
Questions:
Is there something in my code that I'm missing? How can I receive the answer from the M114 command using Printrun?
Do you know any other package that allows me to receive the answer from the 3D printer?
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16371 | Problem with jitters with Ender 3
Recently I realized that I have been getting jitter-like rough surfaces on round parts of my models from my Ender 3. The jitters happen on the sides of the model, so the jitters would be happening in the X and Y. The weird thing is that some parts are smooth and others have jitters. Has anyone else encountered this problem? How do I solve it?
Here is a photo of my hovercraft where it happened the most. (This is all one piece) As you can see, the section next to the jitters is completely clean. I'm not really sure about what is going on here.
I can't answer it directly but let's do some debugging. Are you sure your gcode and STL files are good (default speeds etc...)? Can you check the tightness of timing belts in the axes? Did you try with different infill settings, are the results are same?
I just tightened the timing belts, but I still get the same result. The bumps still happen regardless of the infill. I'm not really sure if it is my slicer, or if it may be something with the steppers.
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16356 | How much time should take for UV lamp to cure resin?
I've bought recently this UV lamp to cure my SLA prints:
But I seem not to be able to get the job done. I got some leftover supports and wanted to throw them in the trash, so I put the lamp onto them, at less than 10 cm, over a cardboard box with foil paper in the walls, and accidentally forgot about it. After 5 hours I remembered, got back, and the resin was still sticky and not cured. Not to say that I should do this for both sides, so I don't think it's a good solution.
I tried another one, this time with the lamp in my hands, and put the lamp over the piece less than 3 cm away. I spent 3 rounds of 5 minutes (that's 15 min) with the lamp pointing directly at it (less than 3 cm away) and it was still not cured, either.
So I'm asking: am I doing something wrong? May my UV lamp be defective? Or is it normal to take so much time? Can you recommend any UV lamp that gets the job done and doesn't take forever?
I already have an Elegoo Mercury curing machine, but it hasn't enough room for big prints, that's why I want to get a lamp that I can use and adjust for bigger prints.
If the SLA Resin is not curing under the lamp after several hours, it is likely the lamp is not emitting the correct wavelength of UV light to properly cure your resin. Typical SLA resins cure at between 350-410 nm light. The listing you post does list the lamp as emitting 405 nm light, which would be in range. However, because of the failures you are encountering, it is likely that the lamp is not emitting any UV light at all and is possibly fake.
SLA parts can typically be left out in direct sunlight for a while to cure, as an alternative without requiring a curing machine or lamp. Finding a lamp on Amazon (or similar retailer) that has a lot of positive reviews (such as this listing) will yield better results as unfortunately UV emitting products are often targets for fakes, as it is impossible to discern if something is producing UV light or not by the naked eye.
It is also feasible to make your own curing lamp (or box) with genuine UV emitting LED's purchased from reputable parts retailers such as DigiKey and Mouser, but please take safety precautions when working with UV emitters, as the eye cannot regulate the intake of UV light and can cause permanent eye damage!
It may be possible to test if your lamp is producing an appreciable amount of UV light with any bright white object, such as a piece of printer paper, and seeing if it fluoresces. Though this test may not be very accurate.
He could buy some uranium marbles to check UV lamps. Uranium glass often glows green under UV light, it's very nice.
How incredibly unusual. The links are to the Spanish versions of Amazon, DigiKey and Mouser. Usually, the world is so US centered...
I noticed that OP posted an Amazon ES link, so to be consistent for them I included spanish links instead.
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16235 | How to solve Ender 5+ weird Z-axis behavior issue?
Before you select if you want automatic or manual leveling, the printer runs a routine to determine the Home Z-axis at the center of the bed.
This starts OK, then the level goes to maximum (of the screw) and stops. Click on the + or - button for the Z-axis does nothing. I tried to flash the firmware again (I flashed it previously to fix the auto-leveling stalled as recommended by Creality) with no effect.
As you can see in the image above, the bed has lifted up the print head. That is repeating in printing, leaving scratch marks on the bed.
I don't like to close questions, but could you reask this question using the guidelines? Guideline 3 is: Questions seeking troubleshoot help ("My printer was working, now it is not! Help!") must include information on 1) expected behavior, 2) actual behavior, and 3) what steps have been taken to troubleshoot already. Exceptions can be made after communication in Meta or Chat. (3)
Witch firmware cos I'm having the same issue
@Void Gaming: constructor's Firmware. Nothing fancy on my side
Ok. So I solve the issue by myself. So to explain the problem a bit further: I had to install a new firmware. That completely reinitialize the z-axis, making the bed goes to the maximum of the screw to the point it lift the print head when I clicked on the Leveling button. To reverse the initialization of the z-axis, I click on the Leveling button, manually lower the bed by clicking on the upper arrow, then, click on manual or auto leveling, then click again on leveling and start over. At each iteration, the starting point of the bed gets lower and lower to a normal position. I had to do 4 or 5 iterations until I get the desired result. Bonus point: when you click on the move button, the bed goes down if you click down of the z-axis. The opposite behavior is happening in the leveling menu: so you need to click a couple of time (between 10 and 20 time for me at the first iteration) before the bed isn't in contact of the print head.
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16261 | Ender 3 - Are my 2040 Z extrusions bent?
While installing my dual Z rod kit for my Ender 3, I noticed something I had completely missed. From the looks of it, I think my Z 2040 extrusions are bent? When I look at the printer head-on at the bottom the Z extrusion sits flush with the Y extrusion shown below:
However, when I then look at it head-on at the top, the Z extrusion does not sit flush with the 2020 extrusion mounted on top shown below:
This is the case for both Z 2040 extrusions. Does this mean my extrusions are bent? How would this affect my prints? Would I need to buy replacement 2040 extrusions or is this fine?
I would not assume the top 2020 crossbar is cut to the exact length; mine seems to be slightly longer too. What matters is that the distance between the two 2040 Z extrusions is constant along their length. Do you have a way to assess that?
One thing to check: If the Z extrusions were significantly bent, I would expect the V slot rollers not to grip consistently. For example you might have one Z height where the inner wheels are tight but the outer ones are loose, and another height where the outer ones are tight but the inner ones are loose.
So I measured the distance between the two extrusions at the top and bottom. At the bottom, it came out to ~120.85mm, and at the top, it came out to ~120.95mm. Is that within margin of error? Along with that, when the x gantry is at the bottom, on the right extrusion, the inner wheel feels fine, the outer bottom wheel is fine, the outer top wheel is slightly looser but still feels okay. However, when the x gantry is moved to the top of the Z extrusion, the outer top wheel can be freely moved with my fingers, but the outer bottom and inner wheels feel fine.
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16263 | How to wire 5 V proximity sensor Ender 3 V2?
I’ve got this proximity sensor which is a 5 V, it doesn’t say it can be used over 5 V. Can I use a buck converter or is it possible to wire it up direct to a 5 V source on the Ender 3 V2?
What I don’t understand is where to wire it direct to 5 V on the printer or if I use a buck converter then where does the 3rd wire go to on the printer?
If it goes to the signal wire on the Z endstop then which one is the signal wire?
Welcome to 3D Printing SE and thank you for your contribution. When you get a chance, please take the [tour] to understand how the site works and how it is different than others.
The schematic attached to the cable shows the wiring for the sensor. There is BN+, BK, BU-; these are presumably the brown, black and blue wires respectively. The schematic BN+ is the positive supply wire (should be connected to 5V) and BU- the negative wire (should be connected to ground). BK is the output wire and should be connected to the endstop signal pin.
That part seems dubious
Your part is labeled LJ18A3-8-Z/BX. That is a Z/BX type sensor of the LJ18A3-8 series - that first part dictates an M18 outer thread and thus dimensions and a triggering distance of 8mm. Z/BX indicates NPN NO, so a normally open sensor of the NPN type. However, that labeling indicates an inductive sensor with a required supply voltage of 6 to 36 V and a power draw of 10 mA between the supply and ground line and a digital output signal of 300 mA.
There is a variant in existence, that has a 5 V supply voltage, but its part number is different by 3 characters: LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V - the appended -5V is crucial to show it differs from the standard!
The Ender-3 Board
The Ender-3 board has a 24 V input from the power supply and runs its end-stops on 5 V logic. That would suffice to connect the output of a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V sensor directly to a sensor pin.
Hi I did test it with 5 V source and see if the led comes on near a metal object, and it does and it seems bright, there’s 2 wires going to the end stop and I was wondering how to wire it up?
@ImranAli then the part is mis-nomed, for wiring it up, you should test the output voltage on the other wires on 5 V input
There’s quite a lot of sellers selling them and they all say 5 V on the label on lots of websites , so I’m presuming it Is 5 V and most 6 V onwards won’t even work at 5 V but this does actually work at 5 V.
@ImranAli I would suspect this is the 6V-36V version and the sellers are stretching the truth a bit by claiming it (also) works at 5V. A sensor designed for 6V probably also works at 5V but may or may not be reliable.
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16282 | Do hygroscopic filaments (PVA, Nylon) absorb moisture while in a heated enclosure
I’m new to using PVA support filament, and have read it is especially prone to absorbing moisture out of the atmosphere. People made it sound like it starts to happen quickly, and if you aren’t supposed to leave it on the machine overnight, what’s the difference between that and doing an overnight print with the roll?
I’m building an enclosure for the printer (BCN3D Sigma, filament lives in the build space), expect the ambient temperature when printing PLA to be ~35 °C, unless I add an active heating element (100 W lightbulb possibly). The question is, do the hygroscopic materials continue to absorb moisture in a warm, toasty environment? And if so, do I need to construct a dry box for the filament to live in as it prints?
A frugal attempt at research brought back this:
As noted by the Sciencing.com website article "How Temperature & Humidity are Related":
As air temperature increases, air can hold more water molecules, and its relative humidity decreases. When temperatures drop, relative humidity increases.
After adding an inexpensive thermometer + hygrometer, I can report my enclosure, heated passively with the heat bed, isn’t very effective at raising the temperature and even less impressive at lowering the relative humidity. With the bed at PLA temperature (65 °C) for 2 hours, the temperature raised from 22 °C to 28 °C, and the relative humidity lowered from 32 % to 29 %.
I may go for an active heating element and will report back on what happens when the chamber is hotter.
FWIW, I''ve got a spool of generic PLA that's been open for three weeks plus a couple days, and as of last night it still printed well. I live in humid North Carolina, though it's been drier than normal recently.
The concept that relative humidity decreases with an air temperature increase runs consistent with the concept of using a food dehydrator to purge moisture from filament spools. As the filament heats up, energy is imparted to the water molecules within. The dryer air around the spool will accept the moisture and "distribute" it to the environment. A warmed enclosed chamber will not have much humidity to endanger the filament.
I have a Sigma R16 and have moved the spools to the outside of the enclosure, but I don't plan to print hygroscopic materials in the near future. I suppose I'd have to build some form of drying enclosure around the spools, particularly for nylon and PVA.
My Qidi3D X-Max has both internal and external spool mounts and it is recommended to use the internal mount for nylon, as even an hour's exposure to humidity can deteriorate print quality.
PLA is safe for days, ABS is safe for perhaps less, but PVA is not a good overnight exposure material and nylon is definitely an inside-the-box condition.
I suspect that having the filament inside your Sigma, especially if you plan to fully enclose it, is not going to be problematic. I created a front panel for my Sigma to reduce ABS warping and the internal temperatures reached 37 °C. That's warm enough to keep the water clear of the filament, unless you have an extremely humid environment.
Before you add an additional heater, consider to place a perforated container of color-change desiccant inside the build chamber and observe over time the color change. Obviously when not printing, seal the desiccant from collecting non-test humidity, but I think you'll find it's pretty dry while you're printing.
Thanks for your notes. Desiccant in the build chamber is interesting. I’m ordering a thermometer+hygrometer (to measure humidity), I’ll report back what happens. I could see the crucial variables being how much the enclosure heats up, and the local humidity.
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16287 | I am getting bubbles and a bulge at the bottom layer of my 3D print
I am printing ABS on an Ender 3 printer at a temperature of 240 °C on the nozzle and 110 °C on the bed. I am getting the following result:
Is there any way I can fix this?
Have you tried lower bed temperatures?
I think that your bed is too hot because the bubbling is only on the bottom layer, if it was through out the entire print, I would say that it is your nozzle temp and you should do a temp tower, but because that isn't the case try lowering your bed temp
I had a similiar issue. First 2 to 4 layers looked god, than a trouble zone with 5 to 10 layers, and after that good again.
In my case the z-layer screws were not tight. During moving up I lost some steps due to the lose screws ...
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16295 | Problem printing with V6 hotend on Creality Ender 3
I have installed V6 hotend (all metal) with a direct drive extruder on Ender 3. It flows alright when I push manually however, the print is severely under extruded and doesn't stick to the bed.
Things I have already tried:
Replaced the nozzle and the heat break however, the problem persists.
Tried changing the filament. PETG wrecked the heat break. PLA doesn't print either.
Reduced the retracing to 0.3 mm
Cleaning the bed.
Have you calibrated the extruder?
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16106 | Source of design advice for modeling functional parts
Where do I go for deeper knowledge about 3D printing functional parts?
I want to up my game a bit and design some more functional parts. In particular, I want to do more with boxes, organizers, and moving systems.
For instance, I've found some YouTube videos showing hinge design, but I want more. I want more details on WHY they chose the pin to be 1.5 mm diameter, etc. I want design options (can the hinge be somewhere other than halfway between top and bottom).
I'd also like to know how to do enclosures that snap together (same problem: YouTube shows me one or two designs, not much detail on why they are designed that way or how to change them if they snap off).
I want box tops that can stay on. How do I make clasps? Sliding lids? Hinges with stops? Snaps?
I haven't even started to mention my desires to learn about levers/gears/etc.
Can anyone recommend a good book? Or a course? Or a really good YouTuber?
This is incredible wide. You should read special considerations for 3D printing
@Trish, thanks for the pointer. But, I'm not looking for that kind of advice. I understand the 3D printing process pretty well, and can design parts with the right overhang or bridging factors, for instance. What I'm searching for is design advice for how to model the actual parts.
Then this is a recommendation question, which is disallowed on the stack unless extremely specific. You are looking for an engineering and/or product design class/book at that scale. You can ask about specific problems, but for that Engineering SE might be the even better choice.
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16179 | Replacing ceramic tape on Wanhao Duplicator i3
I need new ceramic tape for my 3D printer. Does it matter which I get? Can I just get the cheapest? Is there a quality difference?
I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 too. It does not matter a lot which ceramic wadding and / or kapton you use. The more you seal off, the better it works. If you have a full metal hotend and a powerful cooling blower and need temps above 250 °C, you might want to do the best you can with a good padding of ceramic and kapton. For normal operation, a half-done job will do just fine.
See this question too: Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?
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16127 | Horrid issues with printing with Anet A6?8?
I just recently got a printer, supposed to be a Prusa i3 Reprap clone. It came with Repetier firmware on it, and its previous owner had no idea about any calibration. I calibrated X-, Y-, and Z-axis along with the extruder, and now when I print a test cube it comes out with the right dimensions. But, the quality is horrible.
I'm printing with 30 mm/s speed as shells, 15 mm/s as infill, infill percentage is above 60 %. I've tried everything I can think of, including suffering a temperature tower (which came out just wrong). What am I missing?
[
Looks like it is printed way too hot, what is the temperature setting? I'm curious what the real temperature of extrusion was.
I used 200 for this. 8th image in the below link is my attempt at a temperature tower from 220 to 180 in 450 layers.
https://imgur.com/a/zHI6TpO
How did you "calibrate" those? Hopefully not by measuring printed parts?
By using G1 and measuring the distance travelled with a caliper really. I'm familiar with their internal firmware.
By the way, problem has been solved. What the seller advertised & I thought was a 0.4mm nozzle. In reality, it was so beat up that it was 1.2mm. New nozzle & everything works great.
For the community, could you turn you comment with the solution into an answer? That way, others will benefit from both your problem, and your solution.
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16560 | Ender 3 Pro not reading new G-code files on original SD Card
I´ve been using my Ender 3 Pro for almost 1 year now. Always using the provided SD card. For a couple of days, the printed does not read any new file that I load to the SD card, but it does with the older files (and it then prints correctly as well).
I tried deleting some old files that I don't need, I tried turning it on with the SD card, I tried inserting the card after turning the printer on. It's always the same.
I am using another SD card and it works properly.
Any idea?
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The original card I got with my ender3 also wore out recently.
I'd try to putting the SD card in your computer and formatting it (pulling off the files you want to save before doing so). If it still doesn't work, throw it in the trash.
SD and MicroSD cards use a type of memory (Flash RAM) that is subject to wearing out -- the actual memory cells deteriorate very slightly each time data is written to them, and SD, MicroSD, and thumb drives typically don't use the very best flash RAM (as would hopefully be the case for internal Solid State Drives that house the operating system and user storage in your computer).
Further, the constant plugging and unplugging of these cards also puts wear on the connectors.
Either of these factors can result in one or more devices losing the ability to read the card, and this can result in only old files being accessible (though it's much more common for the card to become read-only, or even become unreadable).
If you can still read the original card in your computer, please make a complete copy of the contents immediately, and then write those contents to a new card (as well as keeping a copy on your computer's storage) -- and throw the old card away, so you don't accidentally use it for anything.
Something in the Ender 3 stock firmware (and even custom Marlin builds) is prone to corrupting SD cards, especially if you've removed and re-inserted them without using the unmount command on the menu first. I never tracked down exactly what it was before switching away from Marlin, but whenever it happened, making a new directory, moving all the files to it, and deleting the old directory seemed to work (assuming you don't keep files in top-level directory) to get it to read them again. When that didn't work, moving them off to the host computer, reformatting the SD card, and moving the files back always worked.
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16678 | TMC2208 v1.2 stepper motor drivers not detected on SKR 1.4 turbo with RepRap firmware
I've upgraded my board to SKR1.4 Turbo with RepRap firmware. Everything works, but motors move double the request. M112 reports them as 'no-driver-detected'.
M112
=== Diagnostics ===
RepRapFirmware for LPC176x based Boards (biquskr_1.4) version 3.2.2_2 running on LPC176x at 120Mhz
Used output buffers: 3 of 16 (16 max)
=== RTOS ===
Static ram: 4956
Dynamic Memory (RTOS Heap 5): 8232 free, 8192 never used
Allocations: 188 Frees: 34
Never used RAM 256, free system stack 18 words
Tasks: NETWORK(ready,195) HEAT(blocked,243) MAIN(running,358) IDLE(ready,21)
Owned mutexes: WiFi(NETWORK)
=== Platform ===
Last reset 00:05:40 ago, cause: [software]
Last software reset at 2021-07-06 23:53, reason: User, GCodes spinning, available RAM 80, slot 2
Software reset code 0x0003 HFSR 0x00000000 CFSR 0x00000000 ICSR 0x00425000 BFAR 0xe000ed38 SP 0x00000000 Task MAIN Freestk 0 n/a
Error status: 0x04
Aux0 errors 0,0,0
Supply voltage: under voltage events: 0
Driver 0: position 37762, no-driver-detected
Driver 1: position 37762, no-driver-detected
Driver 2: position 37762, no-driver-detected
Driver 3: position 0, no-driver-detected
Driver 4: position 0
Driver 5: position 0
Driver 6: position 0
Date/time: 2021-07-06 23:59:06
Slowest loop: 9.08ms; fastest: 0.10ms
Step timer: target 197699275 count 340845874 delta -143146599 late 0
USBSerial connected 0
ADC not ready 2 ADC error threshold 10 ADC Init 1
Ints: 0; Calls 0; fast: 4294967295uS; slow 0uS adj 0 bad 0 big delta 0
PWM Channels
Delta -1660064855 Start -1 End -1
=== Storage ===
Free file entries: 6
SD card 0 detected
SD card longest read time 1.5ms, write time 0.0ms, max retries 0
=== Move ===
DMs created 40, maxWait 159279ms, bed compensation in use: none, comp offset 0.000
=== DDARing ===
Scheduled moves 21, completed moves 21, hiccups 0, stepErrors 0, LaErrors 0, Underruns [0, 0, 12], CDDA state -1
=== Heat ===
Bed heaters = 0, chamberHeaters = -1
=== GCodes ===
Segments left: 0
Movement lock held by null
HTTP is idle in state(s) 0
File is idle in state(s) 0
USB is idle in state(s) 0
Aux is idle in state(s) 0
Trigger is idle in state(s) 0
Queue is idle in state(s) 0
Daemon is idle in state(s) 0
Autopause is idle in state(s) 0
Code queue is empty.
=== Network ===
Slowest loop: 191.40ms; fastest: 0.00ms
Responder states: HTTP(2) HTTP(0)
HTTP sessions: 1 of 2
- WiFi -
Network state is active
WiFi module is connected to access point
Failed messages: pending 0, notready 0, noresp 0
WiFi firmware version 1.25-01LE-D
WiFi MAC address 74:59:09:3b:82:bd
WiFi Vcc 2.93, reset reason Turned on by main processor
WiFi flash size 4194304, free heap 36360
WiFi IP address 192.168.0.200
WiFi signal strength -80dBm, mode 802.11n, reconnections 0, sleep mode modem
Clock register 00181001
Socket states: 0 0
But M569 seems to be able to communicate with the drivers:
M569 P0
Drive 0 runs in reverse, active low enable, timing fast, mode stealthChop, ccr 0x00053, toff 3, tblank 0, tpwmthrs 2000 (4.7 mm/sec), pwmScaleSum 0, pwmScaleAuto 0, pwmOfsAuto 0, pwmGradAuto 0, pos 0
M569 P0 D2
M569 P0
Drive 0 runs in reverse, active low enable, timing fast, mode spreadCycle, ccr 0x00053, toff 3, tblank 0, hstart/hend/hdec 5/0/0, pos 0
As you can see, I managed to change the setting from 'stealthChop' to 'spreadCycle'.
I also tried editing the config.g to check if the stepping is set correctly and, unfortunately, it is.
Both M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 and M350 X256 Y256 Z256 E256 make the stepper motors run twice the distance in mm required.
I can fix this problem by setting the steps per mm from 80 to 40, but I always ran 80 and online calculators say that my steps/mm are 80.
Is there something that I missed checking? How is it possible that the motors spin twice the required?
Hi Chris and welcome to SE.3DP. +1 for an intriguing and well presented question. Hopefully someone may be able to answer your question in a few days. Good luck!
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.069348 | 2021-07-06T22:17:24 | {
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16648 | Where the plastic sticker should be installed?
With my Anet ET4, I also received a plastic sticker. I assume this should be stuck onto glass, not to a metal bed. If I understand this right, when sticking this to glass, I will damage the glass and I cannot use the glass as a bed in the future if I change my mind and decide to experiment with glass again.
Isn't better to buy another glass and stick the plastic there? Or is better to buy some completely different sticker? I have many problems with adhesion on Anet ET4, so looking for options. Any ideas?
can you confirm that your "sticker" is a PEI sheet? It's common to have PEI with 3M super-strong adhesive to attach to a print bed. It provides fairly strong adhesion on a heated bed, but releases when cool.
Yes, it is black 3M PEI sheet, which is included
You can always just turn the glass around if you want to print directly onto it
PEI would not damage the glass if your intent is to remove it later. A heat gun will soften the adhesive and allow destructive removal of the PEI sheet and non-destructive removal from the glass. @towe's suggestion to turn the glass over is valid. Your suggestion to use a second sheet of glass is also useful.
Many thanks for all hints, i think i will use second glass to avoid using heat gun later, just to save some time. Glass is cheap, so why not to have 2 ;-)
Also print/build surfaces can be expensive as well as a pain to remove. You don't want to remove it until it is damaged. Removing it destroys the print surface.
Besides a heat gun, heating the bed some can also help removing the tape-like print surface/adhesion layer. Using a puddy knife carefully can help prying up the adhesion layer. The only danger to the glass is mechanically breaking it. Avoid mashing a sharp point perpendicular to the surface of the glass or pounding the surface.
Most of the work removing the surface is cleaning off the adhesive left by the adhesion layer on the glass. A cleaner rated as a degreaser or IPA (at least 90% IPA) helps remove the adhesive. Many of the hand sanitizers with at least 70% alcohol will work if the remainder is hydrocarbons with little water. You can remove the hydrocarbons left with soap and water.
Here is an example of a print surface/adhesion layer (black) on a glass bed (white). The object being printed is blue.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.069708 | 2021-06-28T19:52:08 | {
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16458 | Ender 3 Pro stuck print excess
I have an Ender 3 Pro. When I print, the area that the printer goes around before printing gets stuck and I can't scrape it or use alcohol.
Both of these methods are used with a heated and cooled bed. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Your bed is way too close to the nozzle.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE Please consider to add an answer with a little background why it is too close (this is probably the reason), the current answer doesn't include this solution!
With PETG I use Elmer's glue sticks to form a barrier protecting my print surface.
When PETG stuck too hard to the print surface, I have to decide what to destroy; the print or the print surface. Removing at room temperature can tear the print surface. Heating the bed to 80 °C or above softens the print, making it easier to remove, but distorts during removal.
If the print is already removed, you can heat the bed to make the remaining material easier to scrape off. With a glue stick, especially a washable glue stick, you can first clean off the glue stick and undercut the material on the bed.
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16491 | PrusaSlicer not making sense
I'm using PrusaSlicer 2.3.1 on a custom delta.
I'm printing a basic 25x25 mm cubic shell for calibration purposes. It keeps setting the print speed to 20 mm/sec despite there being no speed specifically that low (well, except gaps, but these walls are presented as external perimeters in the post-slice viewer.)
I've also ensured the minimum printing speed (cooling section) is 30 mm/s, and set the 'slow down if print is below' to like 1 second but it refuses to change.
In fact, I just turned off all auto-cooling and the software didn't even require a re-slice! I jogged the position a hair which forces a reslice but the end result is the same. This refusal to require a reslice has been showing up a lot lately, never had this kind of problem in the original Slic3r I've been using for years.
What is the question here? Your contribution reads more like a rant (especially the last sentence).
Yes, sorry about that subject line! I've lost hair chasing this problem down and it looks like I have a software problem making it really hard to pin down. People in other forums opened my project file (.3mf) and couldn't find a problem and recreating it consistently has been really hard. I'm in the process of crossing my fingers and re-installing.
So do you really have a specific question then that we can answer? Perhaps making a bug report with Prusa would be a better course of action.
Prusa would ask me to document how to duplicate the problem but I'm having problem duplicating consistently. My question is: why did Prusaslicer spit out gcode that prints my single-walled calibration
My question:
To start off simply, if I have auto-cooling enabled and the minimum speed allowed is set to 30 mm/sec, and print speed is set to 30mm/sec, is there EVER a (normal) situation that would slow down my print to 20mm/sec,? Because that is what seems to be happening, if I understand them correctly.
At the moment I can't even recreate the problem, which is where my headaches started. I sent a .3mf file to the Prusaslicer forum and it sliced fine on their computers.
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16492 | Help adding additional stepper drivers to Marlin
I am building a large printer that needs 3 independent Z-stepper motors that will home with a BLTouch and 2 Y-stepper motors with an endstop for each side.
I can use the E1 for the extra Y and I plan on adding two external stepper drivers for the two extra Z-stepper.
There should be 8 free pins in AUX-2 to add the two stepper drivers. I purchased some stepper expansion boards and will be using the same A4988 stepper drivers as the rest of the motors.
The hard part is figuring out how to modify Marlin to recognize the new steppers. I also need to get it to do a 2 stepper Y-homing sequence.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.070191 | 2021-06-10T02:35:28 | {
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16485 | Odd behaviour of steady feedrate increase
For some weeks I noticed really odd behaviour on my OctoPi controlled Anet A8. I'm using an MKS Gen L board with TMC2208 on this and constellation worked for a year now.
When starting a print, I noticed the movements were really fast in spite of having an extra slow first layer. I adjust the feed rate to 100 % in Octoprint and it works normal. The final print has noticeable imperfections as it moves up. I check the feed rate after the print and it's at like 594 %. My G-code wouldn't specify such a value and I didn't find any related commands in there.
Further, if the printer is idle and I set M220 S100 it returns FR:100 % when asked. If I make a homing move, wait and ask again, the value steadily rises. First FR:102 %, then FR:105 % after a minute and so on...
I think this behaviour might have started after using a G-code post-processed in Cura for different feed rates.
Does anyone have an idea how to tackle this? The printer was switched off several times already. If I implement an M220 in the start G-code I assume it will still rise during the print.
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16525 | Klipper on Ender 3 v2 wrong signals
I have very strange problem. Motors X and Z are messing up somehow. I mean if I try to home X only, Z moves also. And vice-versa. Y motor homes and moves normally.
Board is stock E3v2 v4.2.2 with TMC2208. With Marlin everything is OK.
Also, I'm not sure if it's important, but I have compiled firmware 3 times and all 3 are different in size - 20424 bytes first, 20540 bytes second, and 21172 last. All with the same settings -> STM32F103, 28kbit bootloader, com only (USB, CAN disabled).
Heaters seem to work too.
Video
(I'm not sure how to add a video window here)
Here is my config for motors:
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PC2
dir_pin: PB9
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PA5
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 225
homing_speed: 50
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PB8
dir_pin: PB7
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PA6
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 225
homing_speed: 50
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PB6
dir_pin: PB5
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 8
endstop_pin: ^PA7
position_endstop: 0.0
position_max: 250
You should probably create an issue about this on the Klipper Github (https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues)
Maybe something about the shared enable pins?
The HAL itself for the F103 works fine from my experience.
Make sure your kinematics: in the [printer] section is set to cartesian
Don't open a ticket on Github, read the documentation: help requests go to the Discord channel.
Also, check connections: maybe you inverted some cables.
"Make sure your kinematics: in the [printer] section is set to cartesian"
Thanks, that help!
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16516 | How to print Lego bricks?
How can I print Lego bricks in order to make them attach?
I need them to be standalone pieces. I use resin to print. My model is Elegoo Mars 3. What resolution should I use?
Also, how should I color the bricks? I have some colored resin at home but I want to make them all black and color them afterward.
You can't print a LEGOTM Brick, because you are not Lego System A/S. The best you can do is print a brick that is compatible with LEGOTM bricks. Also note that Lego Systems A/S has more than 600 US design patents, which might interfere with the legality of manufacturing bricks in the US.
The original bricks are made from ABS and made with a very tight tolerance and uses the inherent flexibility of the material to create a friction fit. However, Resin prints do lack the required mix of sturdyness and flexibility and thus can't create the required friction fit.
In other words: You can't make bricks that are compatible with LEGOTM bricks with a resin printer based on the material properties.
Given that OP seems to want to use a coating for color already, could it work to do resin prints with additional clearance allowing for additional thickness from the coating to provide the needed flexibility and friction fit?
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE no. the coating would just get destroyed over time.
The main patent on Legos has been expired since the 90’s, I remember when all these knockoffs were hitting the market. Also US patent law does not prohibit an individual from making a clone for their own personal use.
Design patents are different.
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16448 | Up! mini raft sticking to prints
I have an UP! mini and I am using the UP Studio and ABS 1.75 mm.
My prints are always stuck to the rafts and are impossible to remove without destroying the print.
I've had a look at the settings on the Up Studio but I don't know which ones to change to improve the situation.
Normally, the print is made to separate easily from the raft by minimizing layer adhesion between the first layer of the actual part and the last layer of the raft.
If this isn't happening with your prints, you likely need to adjust some settings in your slicer. You need to ensure that the first part layer is more than a normal layer height above the top raft layer (in Cura Slicer, I believe this would be the First Layer Thickness); this should be comparable to the Z distance allowance for supports to be removable. You may also want or need to adjust the line width and temperature for the first part layer -- too wide a line may stick too well, and if the first layer is too hot, the same will occur.
It may require several test prints to find just the right settings, though I'd start with resetting your slicer to its default for the printer and materials you're using, and start any adjustments from that base.
There doesn't seem to be much documentation on that particular proprietary software, but in conventional slicers, the setting you are looking for is called the "raft air gap". This should be a distance value slightly higher than your regular layer height.
So if printing with 0.2 mm layer height, do 0.28 mm or something of the sort. Check to see if your UP studio slicer has advanced settings and find something along those lines.
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16440 | Converting a 2D black and white image to a 3D model for printing on Linux
Windows has its 3D Builder software which upon importing an image, converts it to a heightmap of the image, aka turning it to a 3D model that can be saved as an stl.
Does Linux have software with similar properties that takes a black and white image and turning it into a 3D heightmap model?
OpenSCAD is linux compatible, free software. There are a number of facilities to permit heightmap to 3D conversion. The results of "lithophane OpenSCAD" returns many options, and it's difficult to narrow down to the "best" choice, as it's a matter of one's skill set/level of understanding. This would be an answer, but I feel it's incomplete without providing results of the search. "Heightmap OpenSCAD" is another useful search set.
The OpenSCAD surface function will do this. You can feed it a greyscale image or a textfile containing a matrix. Documentation and examples can be found at https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Other_Language_Features#Surface
OpenSCAD is a cross platform free open source cad package.
Cura will import a picture and use it as a heightmap to build a 3d object.
There are a few options available when importing :
You can even export back the data as STL if you need to process the mesh. Here is the mesh exported in STL, opened in SideFX Houdini:
FreeCAD can import JPG (and IIRC TIFF and PNG as well) image files and produce a lithophane type height-map based on the brightness of each pixel. I'd be rather surprised if other 3D CAD software aimed at the 3D printing user base couldn't do the same. Most of the common free-to-use 3D CAD packages have Linux versions; FreeCAD certainly does (I use it on Kubuntu 20.04, and it should work on any recent version of any flavor of Debian-based Linux, if your hardware meets it requirements).
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16424 | Ender 3 V2 really bad layer shifting
I currently have the V4.2.2 motherboard and it is producing some very poor prints on the X- and Y-axis. I have tried many quick fixes to no avail. Every print out of the box more than a few cm tall has these major defects. Belts are sufficiently tight, the bed is level, the printer is on a flat sturdy table, and I still have this issue. Thanks for your help
I'm not convinced that this defect falls in the traditional category called "layer shifting". Have you checked the bed and the portal assembly for play?
Layer shifting can be caused by a number of different things. The following list of solutions is from All3DP's article "Troubleshooting Common 3D Printing Problems" under the heading Print Offset in Some Places:
CHECK THE PRINTER HAS A STABLE BASE
Place the printer on a stable base and in a location where it will avoid being knocked, poked and generally fiddled with. Even a small nudge of the printer can shift the print base and cause issues.
CHECK THE PRINT BED IS SECURE
Many 3D printers use some form of detachable print bed. Although this is handy when it comes to removing prints and avoids damage to the printer, it also means that over time clips and screws can work loose. Make sure that when you reinstall the print platform it’s clipped or bolted tightly in place to avoid any slip or movement.
WATCH FOR WARPED UPPER LAYERS
A print’s upper layers can easily warp if cooled too quickly. As the layers warp they rise and can cause an obstruction to the nozzle as it moves. In most cases the print will release from the platform, but if it doesn’t the powerful stepper motors can push the print and platform around. If your prints are suffering from warping in the upper layers try reducing the speed of the fans slightly.
REDUCE PRINT SPEED
It is possible to speed up the print times for your machine by increasing temperature and flow. However whilst this may result in the filament flowing in the correct quality the rest of the machine may struggle to keep up. If you hear a clicking during printing this could be a sign that the printer is going to fast. If you do hear a click the first port of call is to check that the filament isn’t slipping, before you take a look at the actual printer speed. You can adjust your printer’s speed easily enough in any good slicing software.
CHECK THE BELTS
If layers are still shifting then it’s time to check the belts. A quick check is to just go around all belts and pinch the two together. The tension in each belt should be the same, if not then you’ll need to adjust the belt position to even out the belt tension. Over time the rubber belts will stretch (You can often tell if they do as they’ll start to slip on the drive pulleys), if there is quite a bit of play in the belts then it’s time to replace them with new ones. Over tight belts can also be an issue but this is usually only a problem if you’ve built the machine yourself. Some printers such as the Prusa i3 have belt tensioning screws that enable you to easily adjust the belt tensions.
CHECK THE DRIVE COUPLERS
These are usually connected directly to a stepper motor, and one of the main rods that drives the print head. If you carefully rotate the coupler you’ll see a small grub screw. Hold onto the rod and taking hold of the attached belt and then tug the belt and try to force the pulley to turn. You should find that there is no slip between the coupler and stepper or rod. If there is, tighten the grub screw and try again.
CLEAN AND OIL THE RODS
Over time debris can build up on the rods which means that at some points along their length they encounter an increase in friction. This can affect the free movement of the head and cause layer shifting. A quick wipe and re-oil of the rods usually solves the issue.
CHECK FOR DEFORMED RODS
If you see the print head falter at certain points then it could be that one of the rods has become slightly bent. You can usually tell by switching off the machine so there’s no power going through the steppers and then move the print head through the X- and Y- axes. If you feel resistance then you know something is amiss. Start by seeing if the rods are aligned, if they are then remove the rods and roll them on a flat surface. If any are bent then it will be quite obvious.
This has a good order for checking. Try an additional adhesive layer (glue stick or hair spray) and try lifting z by one step size when moving the extruder and not extruding.
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16414 | Ender 5 Plus manual screen temperature adjustment
I want to get my Ender 5 plus to print at 300 °C. As such, I've edited the firmware and increased the HEATER_0_MAXTEMP to 315 °C.
In my slicer, I can slice and print at 300 °C, however, I cannot manually adjust the temperature on the LCD screen past the stock setting of 260 °C.
Any help in getting the manual adjustment fixed would be greatly appreciated.
There are two important considerations before approaching the firmware issue: first, do you have an all-metal, direct-drive extruder? If you don't, your Bowden tube will melt where it enters the hot end and lead to clogs before you ever reach 300 °C (the same may be true of other plastic parts, if present). Second: is your heater cartridge rated for high enough power to actually heat the hot end that hot? There are things like silicone socks that can help here, by keeping the heat break and print cooling fan airflow off the actual hot end -- but this may not even be possible with the stock cartridge for an Ender 5 Plus.
Assuming you've already dealt with those potential issues (and given you can print at this temperature via slicer settings, it seems you have), it seems likely that the Marlin firmware has hard coded limits in the adjustment modules or the LCD input module that prevent manually setting the temperature to a range that is none the less within the reach of the actual control PID. The only solution for this is likely to be analyzing the source code for the input and manual control modules to find and increase that limit (it may exist in more than one location, and they may not all have a value of 260 °C).
Obviously, you'll want to store an unmodified (or at least a known-working) copy of the firmware before you delve into what might be poorly documented or undocumented parts of the code, but the beauty of open source is that at least this is possible.
From what I read on the internet, the TFT screens operate their own firmware, so it could well be found in the display firmware, not the printer firmware. I haven't had the opportunity to fiddle with TFT displays yet, time to order one.
This printer uses a TFT touch screen to interface with the printer firmware (see e.g. this question). The reason that the updated temperature is not seen by the precompiled firmware of the display. If you look at this specific (custom, not standard) Marlin fork you see that the printer firmware and the display firmware are interlinked, this is probably not the case with the default Creality display firmware, it may have hard limits encoded for the temperature.
Looking into the fork mentioned in this answer, you see that the constant HEATER_0_MAXTEMP is used in the display source files, so, running this firmware might lift the constrains encountered with custom Marlin and default Creality display software to modify the hotend temperature to the new set maximum.
Please note, running custom firmware on controller board and display should be done at your own risk.
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20613 | Ender 3 CR Touch UBL Fails to Produce Viable Mesh
I've been getting deeper and deeper down the rabbit hole of UBL and I am losing my mind!
Just installed the CR Touch and I am having print issue after print issue with larger prints despite manually leveling the bed (bed adjustment not UBL manual) to the best of my ability.
Ender 3 v1
Board: Creality 4.2.7
Firmware: Marlin 2.1.2
Firmware config: configuration.h
Hotend: Creality Direct Drive Sprite Pro
UBL Sensor: CR Touch
The height map clearly shows an issue - I just don't know how to fix it.
Of note - G29 P1 will only get through 44 of the 100 touchpoints
Here is the code I ran through to generate the mesh:
G28 ; home all axes
M420 S0 ; Turning off bed leveling while probing, if firmware is set
; to restore after G28
M155 S30 ; reduce temperature reporting rate to reduce output pollution
M190 S65 ; (optional) wait for the bed to get up to temperature
G29 P1 ; automatically populate mesh with all reachable points
G29 P3 ; infer the rest of the mesh values
G29 P3 ; infer the rest of the mesh values again
@BEDLEVELVISUALIZER ; tell the plugin to watch for reported mesh
M420 S1 V ; enabled leveling and report the new mesh
G29 S0 ; Save UBL mesh points to slot 0 (EEPROM).
G29 F 10.0 ; Set Fade Height for correction at 10.0 mm.
G29 A ; Activate the UBL System.
M500 ; save the current setup to EEPROM
M155 S3 ; reset temperature reporting
M140 S0 ; cooling down the bed
Figured it out: human error.
I will document the steps I took to resolve nonetheless.
Originally was confused why the probe was failing to probe areas that were clearly in range of the probe head (left and bottom of the print bed) which had me incorrectly thinking the issue was with CRTouch.
Reflashed the firmware with the probe margin set to 2 mm instead of the default 10 mm which helped auto-probe the remaining areas the probe could reach.
#define PROBING_MARGIN 2
This made it abundantly clear I was an idiot as the probe could not physically reach the unpopulated areas in tandem with the direct drive Sprite hot end.
To complete the mesh I manually probed the three remaining corners (Mesh Edit option on the printer control panel) and then had the firmware smart auto-fill the remaining probe points using the terminal command G29 P3.
The outcome was an extremely accurate mesh that allows full use of the original Ender-3 v1 bed.
I don't know how useful this will be for you now, but I do have a couple of tidbits of info to help others who may have this question and find yours:
You can replace the stock screws on the Plate that carries the extruder (Carriage). The stock ones are (I believe) M5x30 mm screws, you can replace the top right and bottom (when looking at the carriage from the front) screws with M5x25 mm screws. If you put them in from the back, and use a shorter nut, you can achieve the same range of motion you normally have with the stock extruder.
If you're configuring your own firmware, in Configuration_adv.h in the Marlin Firmware source files, you will find a section called @section Leveling. Here, you can modify the probing margins per axis, per value. You can set both the MESH_MIN and MESH_MAX distances for both X and Y axis.
It should look something like this:
#if EITHER(MESH_BED_LEVELING, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)
// Override the mesh area if the automatic (max) area is too large
#define MESH_MIN_X 20
#define MESH_MIN_Y 20
#define MESH_MAX_X X_MAX_POS - 48
#define MESH_MAX_Y Y_BED_SIZE - (20)
#endif
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20689 | Ender 3 BLTouch not working with BigTreeTech SKR mini e3 or stock motherboard
When my Ender 3 was on the stock motherboard, I went through two BLTouch sensors. In both cases, we had the same result: sometimes, when homing with the sensor, the printer would jam the gantry down into the bed because it would miss the sensor. When leveling, it would intermittently stop before it had completed all the steps.
Alas, since I have a glass bed I cannot use the Z-axis limit switch for homing (without mechanical modification, anyways.)
I installed a BigTreeTech SKR mini e3 motherboard. Motion control works fine. In fact, it's much, much quieter. Sadly, still have lousy results (although I've only tried one sensor on this one.)
Z Limit switch plugged in: The BLTouch Deploys. The board totally ignores the sensor (even when I shove it home with my fingers on the way down) and drives into the board.
Z Limit switch not plugged in: The BLTouch seems to deploy and stow over and over again. Then, the printer just says "STOPPED".
Does anyone have any suggestions?
(I think I've been using the same wire this whole time, for what that's worth.)
Is it a genuine BLTouch or a Creality clone? Did you configure the sensor correctly in firmware and using the correct pins on the board? Maybe show a photo how you connected the sensor and how you configured it in the firmware config files.
I just ordered one on amazon that claims to be from BigTreeTech. The one I have now is just a ribbon connector, so I feel as if you can't mess it up.... But I'll some pictures when I can!
If it is from BTT it is a clone, my experience with clones led me to conclude to never buy these ever again. I can imagine you think you can't do wrong with a ribbon cable, but you do need to have that configured in your firmware.
I had this same issue and fixed it by removing the z-stop cable and using the black and white (the combined 2 wires on the BLTouch). Below is a diagram that may help.
I wound up doing the same thing. Thanks.
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21084 | Why are the circular parts of this print not sticking to the raft properly
I’m fairly new to 3D printing but have managed about 10 parts successfully so far. On this print, there were some issues printing the raft, but by the final layer, it looked ok, so I let it continue. I was surprised to see that when trying to print the circular pattern, the filament seems to come unstuck from the raft and pull across.
Is this down to bed adhesion, or some post-processing setting? I’m running PLA at 50 mm/s. The bed temp is 50 °C and the nozzle temp is 210 °C.
Likely the extruder gear is slipping on the filament. The tension arm may be weak or broken. It's also possible that there's a partial clog.
Whenever you get curved paths not adhering in place but getting "pulled" straight across the curve, the forces pulling on the extruded material from the nozzle moving are exceeding those making it adhere to whatever it was supposed to adhere to below. This can especially happen on overhangs, where there's low contact with what's below, or in cases like over a raft or support where there's a gap and it's intended not to strongly adhere to anything below. However, if the right amount of material is being extruded, and if it's sufficiently melted before extrusion, there should be very little force trying to pull it out of place. This leads me to believe there's some extrusion problem going on.
If you can't find anything wrong, you can try just going slower on the first layer after the raft, or using a hotter nozzle temperature. In the big scheme of things, 50 mm/s is a really low print speed, but for someone new to 3D printing, using a stock Ender 3 that likely has lots of little problems you're going to have to find and fix, it's at least an "above average" speed for a first layer, and I'd try just reducing that.
I think the extruded gear is ok, as I checked yesterday when changing filament- I think your other suggestion about nozzle partial blockage is probably the cause! Thank you!
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21070 | Add minimal support or breaking layer in multi part
I am new to 3D printing, so this is probably a simple one.
I am using Freecad to design and Bambu slicer for printing. The object (simple cable clip) basically consists of vertical walls with no relevant overhangs. However, for printing, I have stacked seven of them in a vertical tower separating all seven objects by a small gap.
When I slice this with supports enabled, I get a preview that somewhat looks like Devil's Tower. I tried to draw the support manually and even blocked support at the walls which allows me to draw exactly what I want, but this doesn't change anything. The slicer still throws material at it like crazy.
What I ideally want is a single vertical support/breaking layer separating the parts. I know, I could model this breaking layer in Freecad, but the curved nature of the upper side makes sketching and modeling this quite difficult.
So my question is, is there an easy way to do this in a slicer?
The most easy solution is to edit the G-code file. In the G-code file you can see when the next stacked item starts to be printed. If there is no gap between the objects, the objects fuse together. If you insert G-code to raise the Z height by 0.1 - 0.2 mm and redefine the new Z to the old value prior to move you have created a weak/break layer similar to a support roof with a gap to the printed part.
So after the last layer of an object you insert:
// E.g. last Z is 15 mm, layer height is 0.2 mm
G1 Z15.15 // Raise Z height by 0.15 mm
G92 Z15 // Define this the Z you left
// Continue printing next object
Modifying this g-code file seems to be a powerfull option. I guess I first have to get some experience with it before modifying this thing. The g-code file for this project has more than a 100 thousand lines and I dont want to ruin the printer just yet. So what I did was, to add some support in the cad only at the bottom plate and then let the printer do its thing. The fact that there was a gap was enought to reduce layer adhesion between parts, so I could easily breake them apart.
@lmielke I usually write a python script for custom editing. You can also use scripts in the slicer itself. Your comment also is a solution, feel free to make this an answer!
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21285 | How do I remove clogged filament around a nozzle
Problem: The first layer on the bed was printed fine, but it seems the filament got stuck or something and wouldn't stick to the bed, but instead to the nozzle. Note, it also got behind the blue rubber part. This is the work of about half an hour of printing.
Info:
Anycubic Kobra
stock nozzle
stock bed
PLA filament
nozzle temp: 200 °C
bed temp: 60 °C
Question: How would I go on about removing the filament around the nozzle?
Attempt: I tried to cut it away, but it has already dried out, making it quite hard. I did some research, but I could only find ways to unclog the nozzle itself (given that the nozzle can be reached, which is not the case). My fear is, if I continue to try to break it off, I'll break the whole part. I could heat up the nozzle hoping for the filament to melt again, but that'll probably make it worse.
Note that following the selected answer is likely to remove the material as desired. It is not a certainty that your blob is caused by collecting filament from the bed. Ensure that you have a properly seated nozzle. Have you recently changed the nozzle? If so, it's important that the nozzle seats against the heat break and not against the heat block.
Yes, I'll look into what caused the problem. I also think that it has to do with the nozzle itself and that the whole thing didn't come from it collecting filament off the bed, rather it clogged up because some collected at the tip.
You need heat to remove that. If you're hesitant to heat up the hotend, you can use a soldering iron or a butter knife heated over a lighter to start attacking the blob from the outside to get it down to a more managable size. A heat gun or even a hair dryer is also an option; the latter won't melt it, but may soften it enough to be pliable.
Once you get the bulk of the blob off and are able to remove the silicone sock, a brass wire brush is the tool to use to clean off the remainder. To do this, the hotend needs to be hot, and you need to avoid brushing around where the wires go in so you don't accidentally break the wire insulation and cause a short. If there's plastic stuck there at the base of the wires, a toothpick can be used to remove it while the hotend is hot.
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21316 | How to improve quality of edge over support
I am having trouble with my print here, specifically with the part laying on the green support:
It seems the edge running on the supports does not stick to it and it wants to curl upwards :
I have reduced layer height to 0.1 mm and support Z distance to 0.05 mm. I am using the tight support setting in prusa slicer. The perimeter is printed at 35 mm/s and the temperatures are 200 °C and 73 °C for the bed to print PLA+.
Here is what I would like to get close to side by side with the current result. The good one is printed upside down and takes me 23h to print instead of 12h, so I would like to find a good fix for this ;)
This looks like inadequate cooling. If this is PLA, it's probably a matter of PLA this close to a hot bed being unable to cool enough not to still be soft - the heat from the bed will continually heat the part, and it doesn't take much heat to keep it soft. If you're using a bed temperature of 60°C (common recoommendation for PLA) this is hopelessly too hot for any small parts with overhangs to print close to the bed. Try reducing it or printing with a completely cold bed using a non-heat-based method for adhesion. Some good ones are a textured surface like painter's tape/"blue tape", especially roughed up with light sanding, or an adhesive aid like glue stick or hair spray.
will give it a try. Thank you!
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20918 | How to print a Single face (one sided) 3D scan
I took a scan using Polycam on my phone of a 3D object and exported it, but when put it in Cura it says there are missing surfaces, and I’m pretty sure this is because it’s only taken face-on, there is no back. When I go to print preview it looks strange and doesn’t work, I just want to print the scan I have taken attached to a block or something.
I am happy to provide images, etc.
If you've created a 3D scan, the resulting mesh will have depth, perhaps not a great depth. The slicer dislikes open mesh and as you've discovered, will not print in a manner to meet your requirements.
Using a third party program to adjust the mesh into a 2D image, you can then extrude the necessary depth to create a manifold 3D print. Without knowing your comfort level with other software, it can be a challenge to determine the best program.
First to mind is Meshmixer (free, multi-platform), Fusion 360 (free hobbyist version), OpenSCAD, (free, multi-platform) and many others with which I'm not as familiar.
One would import the recently created mesh, clean up the debris typically created by these scanner programs and if possible, extrude within the selected program to create the depth aspect.
As an example, one can import the mesh file into Fusion 360, create a sketch plane and project the mesh onto the plane. This creates the 2D image which can be extruded within Fusion 360 to create a printable, exportable file.
The real key here is to implement just one more program to take that step to your goal.
Thanks so much - funnily in the time between posting the question and receiving this answer I went off and researched and have ended up fixing it using Meshmixer, but this still helps me understand why so I appreciate your post regardless.
@Dash - If this answered your issue (whether directly or indirectly) consider selecting the checkmark below the voting arrows to show it's good to go.
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21012 | Should I calibrate Z-offset so that Z = 0 has the nozzle touching the bed?
When calibrating my printer and configuring my slicer there are many different values that can affect the final distance between the print bed and the nozzle for the first layer. I'm trying to figure out where I should be making different adjustments. I'm having some first-layer issues, and I'm trying to get my layer height configured correctly to make changing materials and print settings easier.
Intuitively it seems like I should be configuring the printer so that when Z = 0 the nozzle is just touching the bed and leaving the height of the first layer entirely up to the slicer. That way the slicer can accurately calculate the first layer height. But a lot of the instructions online imply that Z = 0 is calibrated slightly above the bed (the thickness of the paper). If I were setting zero on a milling machine I'd subtract the thickness of the feeler gauge to get a 'true zero' to the table.
Some of the Marlin calibration features also seem to assume that Z is configured somewhat high. For instance when leveling the bed manually or when editing a UBL mesh it homes the printer and then moves to each point to verify the bed height, but it doesn't seem to account for the thickness of the feeler gauge. This makes me think that the feeler gauge height is expected to be built into the probe Z-offset. I'm using a 0.2 mm metal gauge as it's more repeatable than paper. If I have my Z-offset set to 'true zero' I can work around this by homing the bed to my feeler gauge and then calibrating.
As far as I can tell the following values can affect the final Z height of the first layer:
The Marlin probe Z-offset value. If this value is accurate then Z = 0 should have the nozzle just touch the bed. If this value is set to the probe/nozzle offset plus the feeler gauge height then when the slicer asks for 0.3 mm it will get 0.3 mm + gauge height.
If not using an ABL printer:
The gantry level
The Z limit switch position
The bed level screws
The UBL mesh values. Not only does the mesh conform to the shape of the bed, but I think that it also acts globally on the Z-offset. If I were to bias all of the values in the mesh by the same amount it should effectively have the same effect as adjusting the Z-offset. I think that this could happen when manually tuning a mesh if the Z-offset is incorrect. Tuning the mesh this way would 'hide' the incorrect Z-offset, but require that the error be replicated when the Z-offset needs to be reset (for instance after a nozzle change). This seems to imply that the UBL mesh value at the initial probe point (used when homing) should always be 0 to prevent confounding it with the Z-offset value.
The Marlin probe XY offset values seem like they could also have an effect on nozzle/bed distance since they will affect where the UBL mesh is sampled for a given nozzle position. I don't know if these values are used when generating the mesh or when reading it. I've measured these values using a dot on a piece of paper, but I'm worried I might have the sign wrong.
The slicer's initial layer height. Since the slicer 'knows' about this height it uses it to calculate the amount of filament to extrude to create a perfect line of the specified width and height. This setting will vary for different prints and materials.
The slicer initial layer offset value (Z Offset in Cura). This is where it seems to make the most sense to introduce any initial layer 'squish' since it is configurable per print (as opposed to the Marlin Z Offset which stays with the printer). I could also add the squish by adjusting the initial layer flow multiplier to extrude a bit more filament than calculated by the slicer.
For reference, I have a Sovol SV01, with a BLTouch and Marlin 2.0.5.3. My pre-calibration process is as follows:
Power up the motors and measure the height of each side of the gantry from the printer frame.
Turn one of the Z-axis lead screws until both sides sides of the gantry are the same height.
Home the printer.
Run the Marlin "level corners" wizard. I use a 0.2 mm steel feeler gauge, and go through the corners until they all have the same amount of friction (the centre of the bed is a bit loose now, so the center is slightly concave).
Home the printer.
Measure the distance to the bed using the feeler gauge.
Adjust the 'Z-offset' value to get a distance of 0.2 mm. This will mean that the surface of the bed is at Z = 0.
Go back to 5 until no adjustments are needed.
Heat up the bed and the hotend (not necessary yet, but can't hurt).
Use the Marlin assistant to generate a 'Cold Mesh' UBL mesh.
Save the mesh.
No, you should not, unless you adapt your slicer settings.
This answers explains the Z-offset. If your nozzle is at true Z=0 when touching the bed, then you need to find out all the property's in your slicer that adjust for the paper thickness. E.g. first layer is slightly overextruded and lines are usually wider, with your nozzle at the true zero, these kind of aids need to be changed else you will get too much flow in the first layer, pressure will build up and this will not help you to get a perfect first layer. This may result in rippling, balling up of filament, etcetera.
Commonly used printing paper is about 0.1 mm, this is pretty negligible on most prints you will print.
But, yes you can, could also answer your question, this may prove to give you additional work to get your prints printing.
Good to confirm that the z height is expected to be slightly offset. I'll do some experimenting to see what the best value to set my initial layer height is. So far I've noticed that 0.050mm works better than 0.100mm.
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22889 | My Ender 3 malfunctions with touchscreen
Yesterday, I upgraded my Ender 3 with a Creality touchscreen that is compatible with it. However, since the installation, it gets stuck on the loading screen once the bar fills up. I tried different versions and even built my own, but they all gave me one of three responses:
Stuck on loading screen
Firmware unexpected. TF may be corrupted. Try renaming or using different TF.
Take me to the interface with half the buttons/widgets responding and no functionality.
And I can't reinstall the old LCD because I had to cut its cable to disconnect it.
I also asked the Bing AI, which gave me tips that didn't work.
Any tips from this community?
Have you checked to see if the screen itself needs a firmware update?
yes. i tried installing my crtouch since the half functional interface had an auto-leveling option but it still dont work. However, it eliminated it to only giving the error and freezing after the bar fills up.
Thank you. I realized the screen is different from the printer itself. However, still haven't tried it yet...
Agarza was right.
Have you checked to see if the screen itself needs a firmware update?
I inserted the SD card into the wrong place. I finally got it to work by inserting the SD card with the DWIN folder into the touchscreen itself (after unscrewing the housing) and successfully flashed the working version of the firmware.
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22986 | How can I improve print speed with carbon fiber nylon and an 0.4 mm nozzle?
I have been trying to print fiber-filled nylons (Polymaker PA6GF and Taulman PA CF) on my Prusa i3 MK3S+ with a steel E3D 0.4 mm nozzle at a reasonable speed. I print at 290 °C for the Polymaker and 265 °C for the Taulman. This is at the upper end of the specified print temperature range. I can only print up to 25 mm/s before the extruder gears slip and never regain traction. They are tightened pretty much all the way (not that it makes much of a difference). Can the print speed be improved somehow without moving to a larger nozzle, or is this the limit? I was thinking a bimetal nozzle or maybe even a volcano-length nozzle with nuts might improve the viscosity. I would like to get up to maybe 50 mm/s.
I emailed polymaker and the rep said a volcano style hotend should help. I ordered a plated copper melt zone extender to try out as I don't have a standard volcano heater block.
I got a nickel plated copper meltzone extender which solved the problem. I was able to print a decent benchy with the fastest print speeds at 70 mm/s. The melt zone extender results in the same melt zone length as a volcano nozzle in a normal v6 heater block. A volcano nozzle with an adapter or just a couple m6 brass nuts should work the same. I got the Polymaker filament to work but not the Taulman. I would avoid it.
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23002 | How do I prevent PETG from stringing and clumping up?
My PETG prints keep clumping up and stringing. The print is otherwise fine, but there are so many imperfections because of this. It looks like the clumping comes from the infill.
I tried replacing the nozzle with a hardened steel one and fiddling with the settings, but the issue keeps happening.
How do I resolve this issue?
Printer: AnyCubic Kobra 2
Filament: Overture PETG
Extruder temperature: 240 °C
Bed temperature: 90 °C
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
Welcome Brian. Please formulate an actual question, preferably in the title of your post.
@BobOrtiz not to be complaining, but that's the kind of pedantic moderation that prevents more users from using this platform. It should be obvious enough that the question is "how do I fix this?", as there's really no other point to mentioning my issues otherwise.
But to be cooperative, I've rephrased the question as a literal question.
Thank you, I appreciate it. It's helpful when reading the overview of questions, it can help to catch attention too, without having to reading eaxh and every full post first in order to try to understand what the questioner wants to ask. Although not required, but personal preference, it's also not uncommon on other Stack sites and greatly increases the readability and content quality.
Looking at the print and your speeds, you might also be printing too fast. PETG doesn't like to be printed fast unless you raise the temperature. Bed temp is also pretty high 70 - 75 °C should be enough.
PETG really likes to stick to nozzles, especially when the nozzle moves over already-printed material in the same layer, which can pull it back up and drag it around or leave it stuck to the nozzle for a long time until it eventually comes off somewhere it shouldn't be, often blackened from spending a long time in contact with heat and air, or from getting mixed with carbonized gunk that was already on the outside of the nozzle.
Your picture shows grid infill, which is a prime suspect for the root cause. Grid, triangles, and cubic are all self-intersecting infill patterns where the nozzle crosses back over lines that have already been printed. At the intersection points, the slicer does not make any attempt to compensate for double extrusion, and in fact there really isn't any good physical way to compensate without some fancy Z motion or stopping and starting that would be prohibitively slow on most printers.
Non-self-intersecting infill patterns like gyroid (any modern slicer) or full honeycomb (PrusaSlicer & derivatives) should go a long way to mitigate this problem.
Some users also find higher temperatures and/or lower infill speeds solve the problem by giving the needed time/heat to cleanly melt through the original extrusion line when crossing it the second time.
+1 for gyroid, solved similar problem for me. It's slow infill, but imo benefits overwhelmed the time cost.
The color of these clumps suggests your PETG is burning. Dark clumps, heavy stringing, that totally feels like overheated material. Try to check if the nozzle really is 240 °C because it looks like quite a bit more. Possibly the thermistor lost some physical contact with the heater block and reads way less than it should.
The problem is not high temperature. PETG needs much higher temperature than 240 to print well anyway. The burnt look is from material that gets stuck to the outside of the nozzle and stays there for a long time, eventually coming off in the print.
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21759 | How can I get Cura's slicer settings to save into the G-code in a way that Moonraker/Klipper can read them?
I've been using Klipper and Cura for a while now (somewhat new to 3D printing), and I notice whenever I import a new G-code file to Klipper, none of the Slicer settings from Cura display in the G-code files in Klipper. However, when I imported a G-code file from my friend (the PETG one) I noticed it showed up right away:
I looked at the difference in the G-code formats, and I noticed that the file sliced with Prusa had the settings in the bottom of the file in the below (truncated) format:
;TYPE:Custom
; Filament-specific end gcode
; filament used [mm] = 5342.18
; filament used [cm3] = 12.85
; filament used [g] = 16.32
; filament cost = 0.45
; total filament used [g] = 16.32
; total filament cost = 0.45
; estimated printing time (normal mode) = 2h 49m 42s
; estimated printing time (silent mode) = 2h 50m 36s
; prusaslicer_config = begin
; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
; avoid_crossing_perimeters_max_detour = 0
; bed_custom_model =
; bed_custom_texture =
; bed_shape = 0x0,250x0,250x210,0x210
; bed_temperature = 90
; before_layer_gcode = ;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE\nG92 E0.0\n;[layer_z]\n\n
; between_objects_gcode =
; bottom_fill_pattern = monotonic
; bottom_solid_layers = 5
; bottom_solid_min_thickness = 0.5
; bridge_acceleration = 1000
; bridge_angle = 0
; bridge_fan_speed = 50
; bridge_flow_ratio = 1
; bridge_speed = 25
; cooling = 1
; cooling_tube_length = 5
; elefant_foot_compensation = 0.2
; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
; external_perimeter_speed = 25
; external_perimeters_first = 0
; extra_loading_move = -2
; extra_perimeters = 0
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; extrusion_width = 0.45
; fan_always_on = 1
; fan_below_layer_time = 20
; filament_colour = #FF8000
; filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4
; filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2
; filament_cooling_moves = 4
; filament_cost = 27.82
Whereas the G-code generated by cura has them in the below format:
;End of Gcode
;SETTING_3 {"global_quality": "[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Filament_Sample-
;SETTING_3 PET-dev.1\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype =
;SETTING_3 quality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nsetting_version = 22\\n\\
;SETTING_3 n[values]\\nadhesion_type = skirt\\nklipper_experimental_enable = Tru
;SETTING_3 e\\nklipper_ui_temp_support_enable = True\\nretraction_combing = nosk
;SETTING_3 in\\nsupport_enable = False\\nsupport_type = buildplate\\n\\n", "extr
;SETTING_3 uder_quality": ["[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Filament_Sample-PET
;SETTING_3 -dev.1\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = qua
;SETTING_3 lity_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nintent_category = default\\n
;SETTING_3 position = 0\\nsetting_version = 22\\n\\n[values]\\nbrim_gap = 0.17\\
;SETTING_3 nbrim_line_count = 14\\ninfill_enable_travel_optimization = True\\nin
;SETTING_3 fill_sparse_density = 100\\ninset_direction = outside_in\\nironing_en
;SETTING_3 abled = True\\nironing_flow = 5.0\\nironing_inset = 0.2\\nironing_mon
;SETTING_3 otonic = True\\nironing_pattern = zigzag\\nmaterial_flow = 90.0\\nret
;SETTING_3 raction_amount = 3.0\\nretraction_hop = 1.0\\nretraction_hop_enabled
;SETTING_3 = True\\nretraction_hop_only_when_collides = True\\nroofing_layer_cou
;SETTING_3 nt = 1\\nroofing_line_width = 0.2\\nroofing_material_flow = 75.0\\nro
;SETTING_3 ofing_pattern = lines\\nskin_monotonic = True\\nskin_overlap = 4.0\\n
;SETTING_3 speed_print = 100.0\\nsupport_angle = 65.0\\nsupport_conical_enabled
;SETTING_3 = True\\nsupport_interface_density = 20\\nsupport_skip_some_zags = Tr
;SETTING_3 ue\\ntop_bottom_pattern_0 = lines\\ntop_layers = 1\\nwall_line_count
;SETTING_3 = 4\\nwall_overhang_angle = 55.0\\nwall_overhang_speed_factor = 80.0\
;SETTING_3 \n\\n"]}
Prusa has them in a more sensible format, whereas Cura stores them in INI format, stored as strings in a JSON object, which is then stored as a G-code comment (which seems ridiculously overcomplicated)
I already have a bash/jq function I use to parse those comments from the Cura sliced G-code and display it to me, but I'm trying to find a way to have it done automatically while the G-code file is getting generated. I have looked at some plugins for Cura, but I didn't see one that applied to this.
I know I could possibly modify the metadata.py (Moonraker) to have it parse for the Cura style G-code comments, or even write a Cura plugin, but it occurred to me that I can't be the first one to have this issue. And I didn't find anything for it upon Googling it.
The question: Does anyone have a simple workaround for this that doesn't require writing plugins or modifying existing Moonraker files?
And a bonus question: Why in the world would they store slicer settings nested in three different formats? Why?!
TL;DR: Cura stores the print config in the G-code comments, but Klipper/Moonraker can't parse them due to the format. Is there a simple way around this? (aside from writing a plugin or modifying Moonraker files)
P.S. I do see that some plugins seem related to this but I don't see one that formats and saves the settings to the G-code file. They either just extract them from the G-code, or require you to execute a script every time (or even launch a Node server..)
Update (Answer... Kinda)
So after looking into the Moonraker python, I can see that there actually is a Cura class that extends BaseSlicer class, and it's what handles the comment parsing:
class Cura(BaseSlicer):
def check_identity(self, data: str) -> Optional[Dict[str, str]]:
match = re.search(r"Cura_SteamEngine\s(.*)", data)
if match:
return {
'slicer': "Cura",
'slicer_version': match.group(1)
}
return None
# .. Truncated some rows..
def has_objects(self) -> bool:
return self._check_has_objects(self.header_data, r"\n;MESH:")
def parse_filament_weight_total(self) -> Optional[float]:
return regex_find_float(r";Filament\sweight\s=\s.(%F).", self.header_data)
def parse_filament_type(self) -> Optional[str]:
return regex_find_string(r";Filament\stype\s=\s(%S)", self.header_data)
def parse_filament_name(self) -> Optional[str]:
return regex_find_string(r";Filament\sname\s=\s(%S)", self.header_data)
# .. Truncated some rows..
def parse_nozzle_diameter(self) -> Optional[float]:
return regex_find_float(r";Nozzle\sdiameter\s=\s(%F)", self.header_data)
And if you look at the regex, it's looking for some config names like Filament weight, Filament name, Filament type, etc. But Cura stores it as just name, weight, and type, but puts it under a [metadata] section.
Also, the Cura-style metadata is all just concatenated into one string, which has a line return injected every 80 characters. This means that depending on the values, some of the names of the metadata items get truncated halfway through, and have another ;SETTING_3 injected as the prefix, which makes it somewhat of a nightmare to simply parse with RegEx.
I was trying to avoid having to modify any Moonraker code, but it looks like I'll just have to alter the Cura class to extract all lines that start with ;SETTING_3 , then concatenate > JSON Parse > INI Parse.
Please don't post text as an image; see Why are images of text, code and mathematical expressions discouraged?.
@agarza hm, ok. Updated. I thought about that but figured it was ok because I wasn't really posting the text to be parsed/read through. I just wanted to show the side by side differences between the two. And I did have the code in the draft and thought it just made it too cluttered/long.
Does this answer your question? Is there a (common) way to embed used Slicer settings inside the G-code file?
@BobOrtiz Not really. I actually found that there is a Class that should be able to do this, already in Moonraker. I just need to see why it doesn't work (I updated y original post)
Not sure why I wasn't able to find this initially, but here's a list of replacement strings that can be used in the Start/End G-code settings of the machine/printer profile.
In my Machine profile settings, I inserted the below text at the top of the Start G-code section:
; Cura/Material/Profile settings
;Layer Height: {layer_height}
;MINZ: {layer_height_0}
;Print Speed: {speed_print}
;first_layer_bed_temp: {material_print_temperature_layer_0}
;Nozzle diameter = {machine_nozzle_size}
;Filament id = {material_id}
;Filament type = {material_type}
;Filament name = {material_name}
;Filament brand = {material_brand}
;Filament amount = {filament_amount}
;Filament weight = {filament_weight}
;Filament cost = {filament_cost}
;Jobname = {jobname}
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
; ... Rest of my start G-code was here
And now, when I generate a new G-code file, it has the below data in the file:
; Cura/Material/Profile settings
;Layer Height: 0.2
;MINZ: 0.2
;Print Speed: 30.0
;first_layer_bed_temp: 260.0
;Nozzle diameter = 0.4
;Filament id = generic_abs_175 #2
;Filament type = ABS
;Filament name = ASA
;Filament brand = iSANGHU
;Filament amount = [1.01]
;Filament weight = [3.013193642578125]
;Filament cost = [0.05423748556640625]
;Jobname = TN1-148_SHAFT_ADAPTOR
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
(Note: I had to save an ASA material as ABS because apparently, Cura thinks my printer profile isn't compatible with ASA, so it's saved as ABS. but that value is accurate to what's in the configs)
And it works fine in MoonRaker as well
Source: How to access material type (eg PLA, PETG etc) from Cura post-processing plugin?
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22832 | How to fit a model into a hole with the same shape?
I've 3D printed a box with a hole in it, the hole looks like a horse. My idea was that I then 3D print that horse in a different color and put it into the hole. The problem was that the horse didn't fit the hole, as they were the same size. I then made the horse smaller, but that made a new problem. Now the feet of the horse don't align with the hole. How can I scale the horse easily, like how can I just make everything thinner?
The image above is how the horse looks, and what I want is to make all sides go in 3 mm, I'm not sure how to do it without the legs moving.
Welcome. Adding images of what you currently have or trying to achieve could be helpful.
What you need
You don't need a scaled horse, you need an offset off the outline.
Designing the offset
This can require to create a whole new model, with slightly altered ratios between items. Look at this example:
As you see, some sections - especially the diagonals from bottom left to upper right - have the identical length to the line they are offset from, others are longer and others shorter. if you have the design-sketches in a STEP file, it's as easy as defining an offset and re-extruding the shifted item.
Altering the model
If you only go the STL, some programs do offer an offset-function to alter the model. In the case of blender, you could choose all vertical walls and extrude negatively by a little.
Slicing with offset
As jpa correctly noted, you can force slicing with an offset in many slicers. Often this function is called XY compensation, Horizontal expansion, or similar.
Many slicers can do this directly:
PrusaSlicer: Print Settings -> Advanced -> XY Size Compensation
Cura: Print Settings -> Horizontal Expansion
Setting a negative value will move each wall inwards along its normal.
the slicer is offsetting from all walls.
A less elegant but easier to implement alternative to what Trish suggests (for example, doing 'offset' in FreeCAD is a chore and a half), is to use draft angles / chamfers. Make the hole and the horse walls 45 degrees (matching the angles so both the hole bottom and the horse bottom is smaller than the outline). It will always fit for sure but likely stick above the surface of the hole, which may be desirable, and if not desirable, place the horse model in the slicer bigger side down, then sink it into the build plate (uncheck 'drop model' then modify the Z coordinate of its position in the Translate mode) by as much as it sticks outside the hole, and the part that sticks above the box surface simply won't be printed.
Has the added benefit of making a nice interference fit so you can drop the horse in, but not through the hole. (Assumes that's the goal.)
However, that requires knowing how to model^^
This might be an absurd suggestion, but have you tried freezing the horse? Just throw it in a freezer for an hour or two and then quickly try to fit it into the box.
That's a pretty typical way of getting an interference fit: Cool one part to allow it to shrink then insert it and let it expand into place.
Though it might still be too tight since both parts are literally the same size and have not been designed with any tolerance.
Welcome to 3D Printing! and thank you for your contribution. When you get a chance, please take the [tour] to understand how the site works and how it is different than others.
Scaling in FreeCAD is very easy but you must remember that it's CAD not art. You can offset the sub-binders off a face or sketch. You can't offset the pad or the sketch without playing with parameters, a lot, which you won't want to do.
Give the sub-binder (the green one) a negative offset of say -0.5mm. Pad it as if it were a sketch and it should fit the hole.
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22888 | Does Cura's M0 pause work to pause an Ultimaker 2+ (Extended) print?
I want to make a print where I swap color halfway through. I have tried doing something similar with a 2+ Connect before, and what the internet told me then was to go into Ultimaker Cura and modify the G-code to add a filament change. And the printer blew right past that layer and printed the whole thing in one go. (How Cura would allow me, completely without warning, to insert G-code unsupported by the chosen printer, especially since the chosen printer is of their own make and entirely under their control, is beyond me, and also a different question.)
So naturally, now that I'm working with an Ultimaker 2+ (Extended, with original firmware up-to-date according to Cura), I am inclined to distrust Cura with these things. I have tried to look into modifying the G-code manually to add a pause, and then by hand interrupt the print to change filament. The two main options I have found are the commands M0 and G04. But none of the sources I have found have mentioned printer support. I haven't been able to find anything online that tells me whether M0 or G04 are actually supported by the firmware.
The G-code that Cura makes, with the settings I chose, uses M0, as shown below:
G0 F9000 X19.305 Y19.27
G0 X19.27 Y19.27
;TIME_ELAPSED:25576.615046
;TYPE:CUSTOM
;added code by post processing
;script: PauseAtHeight.py
;current layer: 22
M83 ; switch to relative E values for any needed retraction
G1 F300 Z4.57 ; move up a millimeter to get out of the way
G1 F9000 X190 Y190
G1 F300 Z15 ; too close to bed--move to at least 15mm
M0 ; Do the actual pause
G1 F300 Z3.57
G1 F9000 X19.27 Y19.27
G1 F300 Z3.57 ; move back down to resume height
G1 F1800 ; restore extrusion feedrate
M82 ; switch back to absolute E values
G92 E3066.65549
;LAYER:22
;TYPE:FILL
;MESH:brett.stl
G11
G1 F3600 X34.487 Y34.487 E3067.94669
Would this even work? And if it turns out that it doesn't, is it as easy to fix as swapping out that M0 command with a G04 (possibly with a specified time argument)? Finally, I want this change to happen between what Cura, in the slice preview, calls layers 23 and 24, where it seemingly gives the first layer the name 1. The G-code insertion wizard asks me to insert the last layer I would like finished before the pause and specifies that 0 is the first layer printed. So I enter 22 in there. But in the above G-code, it seems to have inserted the pause before it begins to print its layer 22 (which in the Cura preview would be layer 23?) I need some help untangling this.
I decided to go ahead and try anyways, to moderate success.
The main takeaways:
M0 does definitely work as advertised.
During the pause, plastic had been leaking from the nozzle and down on the print, and during the filament change even more leaked out. Next time I'm doing this, I'm adding significantly more height to the line G1 F300 Z15 (right above M0) and perhaps will consider a different parking spot (the line G1 F9000 X190 Y190 right above that again) to prevent this from affecting the print
As I extracted the blue filament that I started the print with, I saw that a couple of milimeters at the end had gotten singed and miscolored. Not much of an issue, though, I'll just snap it off next time I load it.
Even though I did get plastic of the right color coming through the nozzle during the change procedure, as the printer resumed printing, it didn't actually print anything (presumably it retracted a little bit). I had to push the filament through the tube manually to get it to print correctly, but a little bit of the new layer was missing. Luckily, the next layer printed fine even without the layer below supporting it.
When entering which layer to pause on into the wizard, it seems one should believe the layer numbers in the slice preview of Cura and the part of the pop-up that tells you to enter the layer that will complete before the pause. Everything else around this confused me into suspecting an off-by-one error somewhere, but those were just red herrings.
In the rightmost corner you can see a little bit of the damage from the leaking while swapping filament, but most of it is hidden below the black (and you can also see that it didn't stick to the build plate, but that's entirely unrelated to this issue).
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23315 | Proper use of filament dryer
As I understand it, putting filament in a box and heating it increases the air's ability to hold water, and this draws water out of the filament.
But when the air cools, it will not be able to hold as much water, and that water can go right back into the filament, for a (near) zero net effect.
It would seem the proper way would be to remove the filament when it's hot, move it to a different box, and leave the dryer box open to dry.
But I don't see anyone recommending this, and people using the filament from the (cold) dryer box seem to be getting good results.
So my question is whether I'm missing something, or if leaving it in the dryer while cooling is "good enough", but it would be a barrier to remove it hot.
I'm asking more about when the filament is still in the dryer. All of that water is still in the dryer when it turns off, so the relative humidity goes way up as the air cools off. Some of the videos I saw even had dew on the dryer's lid.
If you left the dryer box open, that allows humidity from the air to be absorbed into the filament, which would defeat the entire purpose of drying it in the first place. That's how the filament absorbed enough moisture to need drying in the first place - by absorbing it from the environment in which it's being stored.
I was referring to leaving the dryer open after moving the filament to a different box. The dryer would possibly have dew, or at the very least very humid air in it. If you didn't leave it open, that would stay in there until the next use.
Leaving the dryer open would allow any moisture remaining in it to be released back into the environment, which would increase the relative humidity in the room. But if you've got moisture remaining in the dryer, it's not a decent dryer and you should investigate other solutions.
As far as I can tell, that's every dryer on the market. They are a sealed box with a heating element. Unless you can provide some example of one that isn't. That's why I'm asking the question.
I use a modified food dehydrator, which by design includes vents to exhaust the moisture-laden air. I've noted the condensation in some dryer boxes and realize that it's typical for warm moisture filled air to condense on cooler surfaces. Such results certainly indicate that the filament was far too wet for practical use, but there should be means to remove it. If it's condensed, it's no longer in the filament, right?
The one I use built from a sealed storage container, a mini-hygrometer, and a mini-dehydrator shows no moisture ever. It holds the humidity to below 25%, and the only maintenance is removing the mini-dehydrator every few weeks to plug it in to dry out the silica gel again, and the lid is back on the storage container while that is happening to prevent moisture from entering. I got the idea from a video from Chris Mead (ItsMeadMadE on YouTube), who provided the idea and the equipment to use.
While I'm getting the essence of the question somewhat. I'm having a hard time getting the exact actual question from it. If possible, please reflect it in the title too.
I believe that the issue is that when you heat the dryer, you're driving moisture out of the filament and into the air. The heated air can hold more moisture, so you end up with dryer filament.
If you were to leave the filament in the dryer for an extended period of time (and allow the box to cool) the exact same amount of moisture in the air would then be reabsorbed by the filament, leaving you right back where you started.
However, most people will dry the filament, then put it to use after a (relatively) short period of time. The filament will start absorbing moisture from the atmosphere immediately, but at a much lower rate than that at which it was driven out. Thus you have dryer filament to print with.
Even if the box has completely cooled and there's condensation in the bottom of the box, that condensation consists of water that was in the filament (pulled out by the drying process) but has not yet been reabsorbed by the filament. Thus, you can use the cooled filament from the cooled box with the drops of water in the box because those drops are no longer in the filament.
The rate at which the filament absorbs moisture from the air depends heavily on the filament type. PLA once dried will stay dry for many months. Nylon is best printed from actively heated filament box fed through a bowden tube into the printer to isolate the segment between the dryer and the printer from moisture; it's extremely highrophylic.
After one dehydrates a spool of filament, one typically removes the spool and secures it in a manner to prevent the return of moisture.
Using a dehydration device increases the speed at which the moisture is removed. Once the spool is dried, there is a longer period of time involved to "allow" the moisture to return to the filament. Even a simple sealed plastic bag will eliminate the return of moisture, although experience has shown me it's not fully eliminated.
I place my spools in a slide-lock bag with a vacuum port, along with a container of color indicating desiccant and remove the air. In a matter of months, the desiccant indicates exhaustion, although I don't know if it is due to removing more moisture from the filament or from penetration of the plastic components of the bag.
For particularly moisture-sensitive filaments such as nylon, one uses an active heated enclosure for the printer and for the filament spool, as even one hour of exposure will cause the nylon to present undesirable printing artifacts if these measures are not implemented.
PLA is far less sensitive, ABS and PETG a bit more sensitive than PLA, less than nylon. Of course, the working environment is a factor. Our house at fifty percent relative humidity will create more complications than that of a house with RH of thirty percent.
I'm asking more about when the fillament is still in the dryer. All of that water is still in the dryer when it turns off, so the relative humidity goes way up as the air cools off. Some of the videos I saw even had dew on the dryers lid.
I've seen those dryers too. That shows a good example of a poorly designed device. There should be the means for the heated air carrying the water to the outside of the device! Consider to add your comment to the original question and to correct filament spelling.
Thanks, I've made those changes.
Here to second what @fred_dot_u said. A sealed dryer that keeps the moisture inside is a scam product that does not do anything useful. A functional dryer needs to be constantly cycling the moisture-laden air out for new air that's maybe 40-60% RH at room temperature but extremely low RH once heated, so that it has capacity to absorb more moisture out of the filament.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE Therefore, commercial food dryers are excellent to use for drying filament, the hot moist air is driven out, I've been using such a dryer for a while. After drying I put filament in sealable, vacuum-able bags. Or print directly from the dryer.
Good dryers have openings to let the hot, humid air out, and get in fresh dry air.
Check Eibos EasDry or Polymaker Polydryer
Since the dryer will operate longer than it's needed, the last air inside will be dry, most humidity having been removed from the filament and vented out. Once the dryer is turned off, natural exchange of air (and humidity) in/out is very slow, so you can without hurry remove the filament, even cold, and move it to a sealed storage.
The Polydryer has sealing means already, so it's even easier.
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23295 | Vertical infill for a small cylinder
I want to print a thin and high cylinder (say, 1 or 2 mm radius and at least 2 cm high), and make it as strong as possible. Even with 100% infill, the layer-by-layer printing makes it rather weak. My idea is the following:
print the cylinder with 0% infill, only the walls
once this is done, place the nozzle on the top layer, right in the middle
let some filament flow inside the tube without moving the nozzle, until it's full
(for larger cylinders I would try some honeycomb pattern, and repeat the infill step until all cells are full)
My intuition is that, since the filament will end up in the direction of the cylinder, it should be much more resistant. Any thoughts? In particular:
Does this technique have a name? (Google isn't helpful without the right keyword)
Do Cura or others offer the option to do this automatically?
I can try to do it by hand with the G-code with some amount of trial and error... if anyone has any tips on the commands to use that would be helpful!
If you want to print that small diameter pillars, you may want to look into buying plastic or aluminium rods, rather than printing them. It is very important to know waht the direction of the load on the pillars is. E.g. loading perpendicular to the height, or compressing or pilling along the length? Honeycomb in height direction is greaat for compression of the pillars, but of barely no use when bending the pillar.
It's mostly bending and torsion in my case, compression is not an issue. And yes an aluminium rod would be a good solution for strength, but in practice it's going to be a pain to find the perfect settings so that it fits nicely inside the pipe
With one to two millimeter radius, two to four millimeter diameter, you're limited to the number of nozzle-widths when using a typical 0.4 nozzle. Two concentric circles generates a 0.8 mm cylinder, while better results may be had with five circles for a 2.0 mm cylinder.
Creating a cylinder and "filling" the 2 cm tall opening is not going to be practical, as the filament will cool before it reaches the bottom. Periodic filling is effectively the same as normal layer-by-layer printing.
Addressing your suggestion of custom g-code, you may find useful the FullControl GCODE designer, a free parametric creator program. One must have a solid grasp of some programming, in my opinion, as the parametric aspect requires, well, parameters to be entered to create the desired objects.
This software was used to create the pin test for 3D printers, an extremely narrow cylinder on which a sphere is generated. That code alone, the pin build, may be enlightening for your objective. One example can be found on Printables. The creator references a different website that is the same program. Image from Printables site:
I think it's important to note that regardless of the method used, you'll not get a particularly strong cylinder. In cases where I desired more strength, I flattened a portion of the cylinder along the length and printed it flat. In other cases, I split it in half and glued the pieces together. Those results were superior to vertical printing.
One last suggestion. If you create a vertical print, be advised that you'll get insufficient cooling if you are printing one item. Consider to create a toss-away model that takes two to four times the duration to print a layer as the original cylinder. This will give the objective time to cool and better accept the next layer. Another method is to print multiples of the small cylinder which accomplishes the same thing, as long as the alternating layers begin at the same location.
Thanks for the advice! Yes horizontal printing is best obviously but then attaching parts together can pose other issues. (e.g.in the pin sample you gave, I'm not sure a dot of glue would be strong enough between the base and the pillar....?). I'll look into the gcode designer now:)
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23183 | At what bed temperature is it safe to remove PLA prints?
I print with PLA with hotbed set to 60 °C. If I try to remove the print immediately after printing, the bottom part of the print might deform and keep the shape to which it was bent at the time of removal. If I don't remove the print immediately, and let the hotbed cool down, then the prints are perfectly flat when removed.
At what temperature is it safe to remove PLA prints? Would it be okay to modify my G-code so that the bed heating is turned off approximately 10 minutes before the end of the print? Would it make any sense to append a "cooling routine" to the end of my G-code that would move X and Y around for some time with the fan at full speed and heating turned off?
Are you using a removable print surface? If so, removing it will enable that surface to cool down more quickly, perhaps in a cool place like a fridge.
This question is pretty close to What is the best time interval and method to stop heating the bed to start releasing before the print is finished??
You could just punch them off! :-D
You say If I don't remove the print immediately, and let the hotbed cool down, then the prints are perfectly flat when removed. - Is that a problem, and if so why is that a problem? Don't you want perfectly flat prints? Apart from that, I would say that this is an exact duplicate of What is the best time interval and method to stop heating the bed to start releasing before the print is finished, esp. if you want to modify the G-code to turn the heat off.
No, the perfectly flat bottom of the print (read "not deformed") is what I am aiming for. The problem in this question is I don't know when it's safe to remove the print.
My question is specifically about the temperature, I couldn't find a definitive answer in the datasheet for my filament.
The reason we use heat in our platforms is to lower the temperature difference between filament being laid down and already hardened filament as some filaments shrink when cooling down (ABS is notoriously known for a larger shrinkage percentage). The temperature we use for the heated bed is close to the glass temperature of the plastic we print, at this temperature, the plastic is malleable. Because it is soft, it can better cope with the stresses caused by the relative cooler layers on top of the layers close to the bed. This prevents warping and prints getting loose from the build plate.
The reason for cooling down first after printing is to prevent the warm malleable first layers (as they have the bed temperature, especially with low height prints, or prints with a thin base) be deformed when removing from the build plate.
The temperature at which it is safe to remove the parts (so they won't get permanently deformed by the removal process) depends on the filament type. It has to be well under the glass transition temperature; so that it has hardened enough that it cannot be bend and maintain that shape. So, when printing different materials, the temperature is different. Furthermore, this is also depending on the geometric shape of the print, a larger volume print object with a relative high height to volume ratio cannot deform as easily as low height to volume ratio prints.
From personal experience, I remove large height to volume ratio prints directly after printing (printing on glass with 3DLAC), a quick tap will generally remove the print. With small height to volume ratio prints, like name tags, I wait for the bed too cool to either the print gets loose by itself (usually still temperature left in the bed) or the temperature has dropped to half the printing temperature difference (somewhere between 30 to 40 °C).
Because of the different materials and the print geometry, it is hard to device a strategy; some materials stick better (can also depend on the build surface). Cooling down the build plate before the print is finished is strongly discouraged, what if the print gets unstuck and the final layers are ruined on a long print? This waste of time and resources is not worth the few minutes to wait for the plate to cool down. If you cannot find the time to wait, you should look into alternatives; a flexible steel bed or multiple sheets of glass where you can quickly empty or replace the bed surface.
Thanks for a very comprehensive writeup! Did I get it correctly that your answer is 30 °C?
I've got time to wait, I just want to change the logic from Beep! Printing done, but you can not remove the printed part yet. to Printing done, now waiting for the bed to cool down. Beep! It's safe to remove the printed part now.
I meant half the difference, I'll adjust the text (it is not 0 °C in my home ), so at 40 °C I usually start pulling the prints, with a razor blade. That logic is also possible, you can add a bed cool down command (M190) and M300 to play a sound.
You haven't said what printer or bed you are using, or given any details of what kind of contact area you have with your print, so I'm only really able to give you a generic answer, but it will hold true for pretty much any consumer printer form an Ender E3 to a Bambu X1 and everything in between.
PLA is a very stable material that doesn't suffer badly from warping, which is one of the reasons why it's effectively the default for most printers these day.
If you have a removable flex plate you can remove your print almost immediately after the printer has completed the print. I printed a model with an 8" flat square base at 60 degrees a couple of hours ago and was impatient. I flexed the bed within a minute of the print stopping and had zero warping. This is my normal experience. I've only had warping if I've done something weird.
Just gently ease it off at a corner and you will be OK.
If I were less impatient it would probably have released automatically after 2-3 minutes.
I'm using the standard Bambu textured plate. For smooth PEI wait for the bed to cool for 5 minutes and it should release automatically as "sometimes" the cheaper smooth PEI beds can delaminate if you take the print off without them having cooled a little. Especially if they're cheap.
ABS is a different story.
Unless you're doing something uncommon, there is no need to modify your GCode, your slicer will manage the bed for you in a way that's suitable for about 90% of prints for about 90% of people. Unless you have a really specific use case or a printer with a custom slicer profile, your system will already be tuned in.
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23117 | Creality Sprite Pro Immediately starts heating hotend on startup
My Setup
Ender 3 Pro
Creality Board v4.2.7
Klipper Firmware (worked great with the stock Creality Bowden hotend and Creality Direct Drive Extruder)
Brand new Creality Sprite Pro hotend.
Wiring
I have verified that the hotend heater cartridge is wired properly. In fact, if I reverse the polarity of the hotend heater, the LCD blinks on and off as if the board is continuously rebooting.
Problem
The hotend immediately starts heating at 100% (24 V DC) on startup without any command to do so.
What I've tried
I've unplugged the hot end heater (on the Sprite Pro head) and I see 24 V DC at the board nozzle output.
If I unplug the ribbon cable on the sprite end, I see ~ 300 mV at the nozzle output.
Question
How do I stop the hot end from heating up on startup?
Klipper printer.cfg:
[include moonraker_obico_macros.cfg]
# This file contains pin mappings for the Creality "v4.2.7" board. To
# use this config, during "make menuconfig" select the STM32F103 with
# a "28KiB bootloader" and serial (on USART1 PA10/PA9) communication.
# If you prefer a direct serial connection, in "make menuconfig"
# select "Enable extra low-level configuration options" and select
# serial (on USART3 PB11/PB10), which is broken out on the 10 pin IDC
# cable used for the LCD module as follows:
# 3: Tx, 4: Rx, 9: GND, 10: VCC
# Flash this firmware by copying "out/klipper.bin" to a SD card and
# turning on the printer with the card inserted. The firmware
# filename must end in ".bin" and must not match the last filename
# that was flashed.
# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.
[skew_correction]
# [filament_switch_sensor runout_sensor]
# pause_on_runout: True
# switch_pin: PA4
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PB9
dir_pin: PC2
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 39.83
endstop_pin: ^PA5
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 235
homing_speed: 50
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PB7
dir_pin: PB8
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 39.78
endstop_pin: ^PA6
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 235
homing_speed: 50
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PB5
dir_pin: !PB6
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 8
# position_endstop: 0.0 # disable to use BLTouch
# endstop_pin: ^PA7 # disable to use BLTouch
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop # enable to use BLTouch
position_min: -5 # enable to use BLTouch
position_max: 250
[safe_z_home] # enable for BLTouch
home_xy_position: 157.5,120.5
speed: 100
z_hop: 10
z_hop_speed: 5
[bltouch] # enable for BLTouch - fast-mode
sensor_pin: PA7
control_pin: PB0
pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: True
probe_with_touch_mode: True
# x_offset: -44 # modify as needed for bltouch location
# y_offset: -6 # modify as needed for bltouch location
x_offset: -28 # For the sprite
y_offset: -40 # For the sprite
#z_offset: 0.0 # modify as needed for bltouch or run PROBE_CALIBRATE
speed: 10
sample_retract_dist: 5.0 # Can be set lower, example 2.5 depending on height of bltouch from bed
lift_speed: 40
samples_tolerance_retries: 3
speed: 10
samples: 1
[bed_mesh]
speed: 80
horizontal_move_z: 5
mesh_min: 18,18
mesh_max: 175,202
probe_count: 5,5
algorithm: bicubic
# manual Bed adjustment via BED_SCREWS_ADJUST
[bed_screws]
screw1: 72.5, 41.5
screw1_name: front left screw
screw2: 198.5,35.5
screw2_name: front right screw
screw3: 198.5,205.5
screw3_name: rear right screw
screw4: 28.5,205.5
screw4_name: rear left screw
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 50
[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1: 72.5, 41.5
screw1_name: front left screw
screw2: 220,41.5
screw2_name: front right screw
screw3: 220,212.5
screw3_name: rear right screw
screw4: 72.5,212.5
screw4_name: rear left screw
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 50
screw_thread: CW-M4
[input_shaper]
shaper_freq_x: 100
shaper_freq_y: 100
shaper_type: mzv
[gcode_macro G29]
gcode:
G28
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
G0 X0 Y0 Z10 F6000
BED_MESH_PROFILE save=default
SAVE_CONFIG
[extruder]
max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0
step_pin: PB3
dir_pin: PB4
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 33.500
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PA1
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC5
control: pid
pid_Kp: 21.527
pid_Ki: 1.063
pid_Kd: 108.982
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 250
[heater_bed]
heater_pin: PA2
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC4
control: pid
pid_Kp: 54.027
pid_Ki: 0.770
pid_Kd: 948.182
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 130
#[fan]
#pin: PA0
[fan]
pin: PA0
[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0
restart_method: command
[printer]
kinematics: cartesian
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 3000
max_accel_to_decel: 3000
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 100
[display]
lcd_type: st7920
cs_pin: PB12
sclk_pin: PB13
sid_pin: PB15
encoder_pins: ^PB14, ^PB10
click_pin: ^!PB2
[gcode_macro G29]
gcode:
G28
G1 Z10 F600
BED_MESH_CLEAR
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
BED_MESH_PROFILE SAVE=default
SAVE_CONFIG
[temperature_sensor raspberry_pi]
sensor_type: temperature_host
min_temp: 10
max_temp: 100
[temperature_sensor mcu_temp]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 100
[board_pins]
aliases:
EXP1_1=PC6,EXP1_3=PB10,EXP1_5=PB14,EXP1_7=PB12,EXP1_9=<GND>,
EXP1_2=PB2,EXP1_4=PB11,EXP1_6=PB13,EXP1_8=PB15,EXP1_10=<5V>,
PROBE_IN=PB0,PROBE_OUT=PB1,FIL_RUNOUT=PC6
[exclude_object]
[include mainsail.cfg]
[include timelapse.cfg]
[gcode_macro do_the_mesh]
gcode:
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default"
SKEW_PROFILE LOAD=my_skew_profile
description: Either load the default mesh or perform a mesh load operation.
#*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ---------------------->
#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.
#*#
#*# [bltouch]
#*# z_offset = 1.420
#*#
#*# [bed_mesh default]
#*# version = 1
#*# points =
#*# 0.005000, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.015000, -0.017500
#*# 0.032500, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.042500, -0.047500
#*# 0.105000, 0.022500, 0.020000, -0.045000, -0.077500
#*# 0.140000, 0.080000, 0.055000, 0.015000, 0.022500
#*# 0.225000, 0.182500, 0.147500, 0.077500, 0.067500
#*# x_count = 5
#*# y_count = 5
#*# mesh_x_pps = 2
#*# mesh_y_pps = 2
#*# algo = bicubic
#*# tension = 0.2
#*# min_x = 18.0
#*# max_x = 175.0
#*# min_y = 18.0
#*# max_y = 202.0
#*#
#*# [skew_correction my_skew_profile]
#*# xy_skew = -0.0008053242270892168
#*# xz_skew = 0.0
#*# yz_skew = 0.0
```
After much gnashing of teeth, I determined that the problem revolved around the Z-stop wire from the 40 conductor cable being connected.
The Sprite Pro is equipped with a 5-pin BL Touch connector. For whatever reason, having the 2-pin connector plugged into the Z-stop port causes the nozzle heater output to peg at 24 V DC.
Updated printer.cfg
[include moonraker_obico_macros.cfg]
# This file contains pin mappings for the Creality "v4.2.7" board. To
# use this config, during "make menuconfig" select the STM32F103 with
# a "28KiB bootloader" and serial (on USART1 PA10/PA9) communication.
# If you prefer a direct serial connection, in "make menuconfig"
# select "Enable extra low-level configuration options" and select
# serial (on USART3 PB11/PB10), which is broken out on the 10 pin IDC
# cable used for the LCD module as follows:
# 3: Tx, 4: Rx, 9: GND, 10: VCC
# Flash this firmware by copying "out/klipper.bin" to a SD card and
# turning on the printer with the card inserted. The firmware
# filename must end in ".bin" and must not match the last filename
# that was flashed.
# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.
[skew_correction]
# [filament_switch_sensor runout_sensor]
# pause_on_runout: True
# switch_pin: PA4
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PB9
dir_pin: PC2
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 39.83
endstop_pin: ^PA5
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 235
homing_speed: 50
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PB7
dir_pin: PB8
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 39.78
endstop_pin: ^PA6
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 235
homing_speed: 50
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PB5
dir_pin: !PB6
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 8
# position_endstop: 0.0 # disable to use BLTouch
# endstop_pin: ^PA7 # disable to use BLTouch
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop # enable to use BLTouch
position_min: -5 # enable to use BLTouch
position_max: 250
[safe_z_home] # enable for BLTouch
# home_xy_position: 157.5,120.5
home_xy_position: 139.5,169
speed: 100
z_hop: 10
z_hop_speed: 5
[bltouch] # enable for BLTouch - fast-mode
# sensor_pin: PA7 # 3 pin connector plus separate z endstop
sensor_pin: ^PB1 # 5 pin connector: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/pw1eyq/printercfg_with_bltouch_for_klipper/
control_pin: PB0
pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: True
probe_with_touch_mode: True
# x_offset: -44 # modify as needed for bltouch location
# y_offset: -6 # modify as needed for bltouch location
x_offset: -30 # For the sprite
y_offset: -41.5 # For the sprite
#z_offset: 0.0 # modify as needed for bltouch or run PROBE_CALIBRATE
speed: 10
sample_retract_dist: 5.0 # Can be set lower, example 2.5 depending on height of bltouch from bed
lift_speed: 40
samples_tolerance_retries: 3
speed: 10
samples: 1
[bed_mesh]
speed: 80
horizontal_move_z: 5
mesh_min: 18,18
mesh_max: 175,202
probe_count: 5,5
algorithm: bicubic
# manual Bed adjustment via BED_SCREWS_ADJUST
[bed_screws]
screw1: 72.5, 41.5
screw1_name: front left screw
screw2: 198.5,35.5
screw2_name: front right screw
screw3: 198.5,205.5
screw3_name: rear right screw
screw4: 28.5,205.5
screw4_name: rear left screw
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 50
[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1: 72.5, 41.5
screw1_name: front left screw
screw2: 220,41.5
screw2_name: front right screw
screw3: 220,212.5
screw3_name: rear right screw
screw4: 72.5,212.5
screw4_name: rear left screw
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 50
screw_thread: CW-M4
[input_shaper]
shaper_freq_x: 100
shaper_freq_y: 100
shaper_type: mzv
[gcode_macro G29]
gcode:
G28
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
G0 X0 Y0 Z10 F6000
BED_MESH_PROFILE save=default
SAVE_CONFIG
[extruder]
max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0
step_pin: PB3
dir_pin: PB4
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
# rotation_distance: 33.500 # for stock extruder
rotation_distance: 7.53 # for sprite pro
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PA1
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC5
#control: pid
#pid_Kp: 21.527
#pid_Ki: 1.063
#pid_Kd: 108.982
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 250
[heater_bed]
heater_pin: PA2
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC4
control: pid
pid_Kp: 54.027
pid_Ki: 0.770
pid_Kd: 948.182
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 130
#[fan]
#pin: PA0
[fan]
pin: PA0
[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0
restart_method: command
[printer]
kinematics: cartesian
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 3000
max_accel_to_decel: 3000
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 100
[display]
lcd_type: st7920
cs_pin: PB12
sclk_pin: PB13
sid_pin: PB15
encoder_pins: ^PB14, ^PB10
click_pin: ^!PB2
[gcode_macro G29]
gcode:
G28
G1 Z10 F600
BED_MESH_CLEAR
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
BED_MESH_PROFILE SAVE=default
SAVE_CONFIG
[temperature_sensor raspberry_pi]
sensor_type: temperature_host
min_temp: 10
max_temp: 100
[temperature_sensor mcu_temp]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 100
[board_pins]
aliases:
EXP1_1=PC6,EXP1_3=PB10,EXP1_5=PB14,EXP1_7=PB12,EXP1_9=<GND>,
EXP1_2=PB2,EXP1_4=PB11,EXP1_6=PB13,EXP1_8=PB15,EXP1_10=<5V>,
PROBE_IN=PB0,PROBE_OUT=PB1,FIL_RUNOUT=PC6
[exclude_object]
[include mainsail.cfg]
[include timelapse.cfg]
[gcode_macro do_the_mesh]
gcode:
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default"
SKEW_PROFILE LOAD=my_skew_profile
description: Either load the default mesh or perform a mesh load operation.
#*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ---------------------->
#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.
#*#
#*# [bltouch]
#*# z_offset = 4.350
#*#
#*# [bed_mesh default]
#*# version = 1
#*# points =
#*# 0.005000, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.015000, -0.017500
#*# 0.032500, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.042500, -0.047500
#*# 0.105000, 0.022500, 0.020000, -0.045000, -0.077500
#*# 0.140000, 0.080000, 0.055000, 0.015000, 0.022500
#*# 0.225000, 0.182500, 0.147500, 0.077500, 0.067500
#*# x_count = 5
#*# y_count = 5
#*# mesh_x_pps = 2
#*# mesh_y_pps = 2
#*# algo = bicubic
#*# tension = 0.2
#*# min_x = 18.0
#*# max_x = 175.0
#*# min_y = 18.0
#*# max_y = 202.0
#*#
#*# [skew_correction my_skew_profile]
#*# xy_skew = -0.0008053242270892168
#*# xz_skew = 0.0
#*# yz_skew = 0.0
#*#
#*# [extruder]
#*# control = pid
#*# pid_kp = 19.488
#*# pid_ki = 1.101
#*# pid_kd = 86.236
```
Glad you found the problem and posted an answer, many thanks!
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.077268 | 2024-03-04T04:32:39 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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20894 | How do I remove congealed, hardened filament from around the hot end from a Cubicon Single Plus
I have a Cubicon Single Plus printer, and the filament has balled up all around the nozzle and hot end. I was wondering if there is any easier way than butting it off carefully with a pair of side cutters.
I have heated up the block and nozzle to 230 degrees Celsius, but that may not help.
You just need the right tool for this, a brass brush, something like:
They're typically available for less than a dollar from hardware stores, or you can order them various places online.
Use it while the nozzle is hot, and with the sock removed, and everything should come right off. Take care not to brush the electrical connections to the heater/thermistor, since this might cause a short and fry your controller board if any conductors are inadvertently exposed.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.077705 | 2023-05-02T14:20:21 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20894",
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"include_comments": true
} |
20896 | FlashForge Adventurer 3 cooling fan making grinding sound
Ever since I got this printer for my 15th birthday the cooling fan has made a grinding sound when the nozzle was near the wall. I thought it was just the clear wall vibrating but now when I start a print it makes the sound all the time and it's getting really annoying. How can I fix this?
I got a used Artillery Hornet back in December 2022 and whenever it began heating up the nozzle it would make noises like those of a jet engine. It was crazy. It needed some maintenance.
Important: Please unplug your printer before cleaning it. It "being off" isn't enough. Safety first at all times.
What I did was check every fan the printer has, so the ones on the carriage (in the hornet I had three next to the heating block) but also in the power source, and make sure they were completely clean from dust bunnies/cat hair/anything else. You'll see how it accumulates on the edge of the blades. You can collect the fluff with tweezers, then use a cotton swab with isopropyl alcohol in case there's some stubborn dirt left you need to gently scrub off.
Afterwards I added a tiny droplet of graphite grease on the little hole they have on the back; sometimes it's covered with a sticker, in that case peel it off to access said hole. Don't go overboard of course, just a tiny drop is enough. Spin it a little to make sure the lubricant is spread evenly.
Reassemble everything, plug the printer and try heating up the nozzle again to check for results.
I would try this before checking for more involved things like software issues. You'd be surprised at how much of a difference the regular cleaning and lubrication of your printer makes.
thx I will try that but will WD40 work or grease
WD40 is more for getting mechanical parts unstuck. I always use graphite grease. It comes in a can like WD40 but it's a bit thicker and also silver colored. It's the best lubricant for moving parts there is.
I mean what else could i use I dont have graphite grease i have my 3d printer provided grease
You can buy graphite greas at any hardware store. It comes in a can like WD40. You can use WD40 but that's not really a lubrican, it's for unsticking mechanical parts or displacing moisture.
If you want, check your fan. There might be something stuck inside. You can clean it with a soft toothbrush. Take a look at the fan blades as well. Sometimes they can get bent. If the fan is spinning at a high speed, you can check the area where it's mounted. It may not be securely in place. Also, these kinds of issues can sometimes be software- related. Make sure to update your printer with any available updates.
It's not dusty it's enclosed and there is nothing stuck in it the blades are fine it is secured in place and I just updated it. do you have any other ideas?
i found that the bowden tube is what is causing the sound it turns out if you push the end of the tube that connects to the nozzle in a certain direction the noise stops so if you print or buy a new adapter that holds the tub in that direction the sound will stop.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.077802 | 2023-05-03T11:46:34 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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"authors": [
"Anthony Fabian",
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"peanut"
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20907 | Ender 3 loss of power
I have a Sprite Pro extruder kit with the BTT SKR Mini E3 screen bundle. When I plug in the Sprite Pro, the entire board shuts off. What do I need to do? I have tried to switch the wires.
Check everything again? If the PSU shuts off completely, it's because of a short circuit. Don't assume wire colours are correct.
It sounds like there might be a short circuit occurring when you plug in the Sprite Pro extruder kit, causing the entire board to shut off.
Check the wiring: Ensure that the wiring connections between the extruder kit and the screen are correct and secure. Double-check the wiring diagrams for both components to ensure that you have connected them correctly.
Check for shorts: Use a multimeter on continuity mode to check for any shorts in the wiring.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.078043 | 2023-05-06T01:46:53 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20907",
"authors": [
"Criggie",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12956"
],
"all_licenses": [
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],
"sort": "votes",
"include_comments": true
} |
20908 | Set Model as Support - Support Settings?
I am currently trying to print an object, "model A", together with another object, "model B", that I want to use solely as a support structure. Regarding Ultimaker, I can set "model B" in Per model settings to Print as support; so far so good.
However, I can't figure out how to adjust the settings for the support; which pattern, if it has a support interface, etc. Am I doing something wrong?
I think I figured this out:
In Cura 5.1 (probably all 5.x) set "model B" to Modify settings for overlaps, instead of Print as support.
Choose Cutting mesh in the dropdown and select the relevant settings. I chose Generate Support, Support Overhang Angle, Support Z Distance, Support Roof Thickness, and Support Floor Thickness.
Enable Generate Support for "model B".
Slice and see if it fits your needs. I found that it didn't and it seems to inherit settings that can't be set per model from the general settings. As I didn't want to print support for the other model(s) I simply enabled support for the entire build, changed the settings I wanted changed for my "model B", and then disabled support for the entire build.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.078124 | 2023-05-06T09:33:11 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
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} |
20762 | Sovol SV06 sensorless homing is not functional
I just unboxed my Sovol SV06, and it does not appear to home correctly. When issuing the G28 command through both the screen and Pronterface, it will crash against the X-axis limit switch until I turn off the machine, as shown in the video below.
I have attempted to use Pronterface to issue new M914 commands, which is the StallGuard sensitivity setting. I have lowered both the X and Y values to 10, sent the M500 command, verified the settings were correct with M503, and then ran G28. The same thing occurred and it does not appear to function any differently.
I have verified that all of the steppers are plugged in, but I have limited functionality to test anything because the machine cannot home correctly. Is there something I am missing? Included below are the results of running M503
m503
SENDING:M503
echo:; Linear Units:
G21 ; (mm)
echo:; Temperature Units:
echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:; Filament settings (Disabled):
echo: M200 S0 D1.75
echo:; Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E691.50
echo:; Max feedrates (units/s):
echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E30.00
echo:; Max Acceleration (units/s2):
echo: M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00
echo:; Acceleration (units/s2) (P<print-accel> R<retract-accel> T<travel-accel>):
echo: M204 P500.00 R500.00 T1000.00
echo:; Advanced (B<min_segment_time_us> S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> X<max_x_jerk> Y<max_y_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>):
echo: M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:; Home offset:
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:; Auto Bed Leveling:
echo: M420 S0 Z10.00 ; Leveling OFF
echo:; Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H185.00 B60.00 F255
echo: M145 S1 H240.00 B80.00 F255
echo:; Hotend PID:
echo: M301 P15.95 I1.30 D48.96
echo:; Bed PID:
echo:echo: M304 P110.38 I6.12 D497.30
echo:; User thermistors:
echo: M305 P0 R4700.0 T94162.0 B4160.0 C0.000000000 ; HOTEND 0
echo:; Power-loss recovery:
echo: M413 S1 ; ON
echo:; Z-Probe Offset:
echo: M851 X25.00 Y-25.00 Z0.00 ; (mm)
echo:; Stepper driver current:
echo: M906 X860 Y900 Z1000
echo: M906 T0 E550
echo:; Hybrid Threshold:
echo: M913 X183 Y183 Z41
echo: M913 T0 E60
echo:; StallGuard threshold:
echo: M914 X10 Y10
echo:; Driver stepping mode:
echo: M569 S1 X Y Z
echo: M569 S1 T0 E
echo:; Linear Advance:
echo: M900 K0.04
echo:; Filament load/unload:
echo: M603 L0.00 U50.00 ; (mm)
You mention a video in your question, but there is no link posted; maybe you forgot.
It turns out that the previous post I had found suggested that the sensitivity setting be lowered when it actually needed to be raised. Setting the two M914 values to 75 works perfectly.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:45.078227 | 2023-04-01T19:39:01 | {
"license": "Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/",
"site": "3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"url": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20762",
"authors": [
"agarza",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23193"
],
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