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thread-1180 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1180 | Do 3D Printers Prefer Particular Topology? | 2016-05-16T02:05:59.790 | # Question
Title: Do 3D Printers Prefer Particular Topology?
Do 3D printers prefer particular topology? In case I'm not using the word quite right, I'm specifically wondering if I should make the faces in my models:
1. triangles
2. quads
3. n-gons..
# Answer
The most common file format in 3D printing is STL. This file format is using triangles only so when you export an object from your CAD application to STL then exporter has to transform all n-gon faces into triangles.
Once the file is created then it is usually imported by slicer application (or module) which performs slicing using polynomial calculation to find intersection with next surfaces. Here is good example of such intersection finding in javascript.
So answering your question:
* no - it doesn't matter as you usually use file format in which faces are triangles but
* yes - it matters as all your n-gon faces needs to be transformed into triangles
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models
--- |
thread-1177 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1177 | SLS 3D printer to DMLS 3D printer | 2016-05-15T04:22:44.357 | # Question
Title: SLS 3D printer to DMLS 3D printer
I know that the SLS 3D printer stands for selective laser sintering,where as DMLS stands for direct metal laser sintering.
I want to know that,can i convert SLS 3D printer to DMLS.
By just changing powder(or another way?)
# Answer
> 3 votes
By just changing powder: No.
Changing the powder, the laser and the chamber, maybe you can get something, but it's not recommended.
DMLS machines use a sealed chamber with a flow of Argon, Nitrogen, or other gas to prevent oxidation of metal powder (and avoid fire or explosions).
Laser power for metal needs to be of higher power than that used por polymer laser sintering (SLS, SLM, LS, etc).
BTW. DMLS also need a metallic build plate to dissipate heat.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Totally agreed with the answer provided.To add to that answer, the use of DMLS lies on the thickness and material limitations of SLS method. So, regarding the amount of thickness, the original source of sizing for both the methods vary drastically and hence cannot be inter-converted.
---
Tags: sls
--- |
thread-1185 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1185 | Offset in X or Y axis | 2016-05-16T08:05:07.393 | # Question
Title: Offset in X or Y axis
How can I set an offset in *y* or *x* axis so that I can move the position of my printed object. I have tried doing this with so many options in Repetier, and in Slic3r, and still nothing, please, have you got any ideas?
First Edit: I have added an image of the changes I have done, nothing of this works for me
# Answer
> 2 votes
There are two things which shouldn't be mixed.
1. Position of the object relative to its own coordinate system.
In general object doesn't have specific position stored inside. Which is obvious as structure of the object should store construction of an object but not its position. So position is relation-to-something so to speak and because object itself doesn't contain any information about object environment then there is no position stored.
But there is one hack. All coordinates stored inside object are in fact a realtion to some starting point. Let's say it's a zero-point or starting point of the coordinate system of the object. This is sometimes anoying because it's usually bottom left corner or center of the object. Unfortunately some applications store this starting point out of the object. This means that object has starting point in some point but this point is outside of the object itself.
This cause the situation when user loads an object in another application then object is translated in "strange" position.
2. Position of the object in printing application.
When user loads an object into printing application then object is usualy set in the center of build plate. This also sounds obvious but if inner coordinate system of the object is translated then object can be repositioned even out of the build plate.
So what is the solution for such situation.
There are two options.
* Manage object coordinate system in the application which create STL file or convert object into STL format or
* Manage (switch off) option called "center on build plate" or "center on the bed" or "center object" or "auto-center parts" in printing application.
Then it will be possible (or easier) to position object according to user needs.
Another issue is STL object which is in fact kinda assembly of separate objects. If you encounter such situation. See here for example
These two guys are stored in one STL file so they have common coordinate system and common starting point. All above applies to such assembly.
Applications allows user to split such assembly into separate objects so each one can be repositioned separately. But be careful - split can disassemble parts of the object itself. In the example the tounge of the trex is 3rd object in the assembly.
In terms of mentioned aps:
---
Tags: slic3r, slicing, repetier, repetier-host
--- |
thread-637 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/637 | Why won't makerbot accept an STL file from Blender? | 2016-02-24T20:10:54.190 | # Question
Title: Why won't makerbot accept an STL file from Blender?
Our library system just put a 3D printer in one of the branches. I have used SketchUp on the library computers for a number of years just to do artsy things. Suddenly, I have the opportunity to actually print something. (I'm really not sure why the libraries have SketchUp installed. But, I have enjoyed using it.)
There is a plug-in available for SketchUp so that it can export STL files. But, the security on the library computers will not allow me to put a file into the SketchUp plug-ins folder. And, the tech guy at the library doesn't think that the IT guys at the library will update all the copies of SketchUp at all the branches just so someone could do 3D printing.
After doing some searching on this website, I found out that I could export a COLLADA / dae file from SketchUp. I would then import that dae file into Blender (The portable version on my flash drive). I could then export it as an STL file. The process appeared to work. I could see my test object in Blender.
I gave the STL file to the branch manager who tried to open it in the Makerbot software so that it could be sent to the printer. But, it gave him a message about the file not being recognized.
I am not familiar with all the details in the importing and exporting processes that are going on. Is there someone out there that can give me some help?
One problem is that, I am using the library computers. I cannot alter them. I can use what portable versions of software are out there, like Blender.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Here is what I suggest you try. If you have a file that you can view/edit in blender I would export it as both STL and OBJ formats. Then take those files and upload them to Netfabb (https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/) and get a "repaired" file. Have the library try again with the repaired STL and OBJ files. If this doesn't work try to get the exact error message/dialog that the makerbot software is giving them as well as the version of the software that they are using.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Makerbot will accept obj files also. Is there an error while importing the obj file? Also you can see errors of your imported file in your makerbot It will be marked in black.
Please make sure your object is a watertight mesh. As I have seen its easy to make a surface model in sketchup. A 3D Printer cannot print something in surface. You can also try importing to netfabb to check if the part has errors in it.
If you want a better modeling software, I suggest you to check out OnShape. Its a cloud based cad software. Its free as well. (10 private files, beyond that everything is public. 100$ per month i think) www.onshape.com
---
Tags: software, makerbot, file-formats, blender
--- |
thread-1187 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1187 | Is inconsistent vertex density a bad thing? | 2016-05-16T12:11:49.243 | # Question
Title: Is inconsistent vertex density a bad thing?
Will an inconsistent vertex density likely introduce artifacts in a print? Or is it OK as long as it's a smooth surface?
# Answer
For the most part, the exact level of vertex density doesn't matter too much. But it does depend on the slicer and settings. Some slicers (like Slic3r) will auto-decimate toolpaths to ensure that the rate of motion commands isn't too difficult for the old, slow 8bit processors in most consumer/hobbyist 3d printers. Having a large number of very small motion commands can bog down these motion controllers and cause pause-stuttering that creates little zits on the print. Most slicers simply reduce model detail level to safeguard the motion controller. Because the contours are decimated to a minimum motion segment length, very small model triangles are irrelevant to printer performance. At the most, they might add a marginal amount of slicing time.
On the other hand, some slicers (like Simplify3d) assume you have the correct level of detail you want in your model, and will pretty faithfully reproduce the model file's contours in the sliced toolpath. If your entire model is very high mesh density / poly count in general, or if your high-density mesh regions are crossed by a layer slice, this can produce a series of very, very short motion commands. Sometimes the motion commands are even smaller than the motion resolution of the printer, and simply take up processor time (to evaluate and drop from the queue) with no benefit to print fidelity.
In a more general sense, high-poly models are dramatically more difficult for the 3d printer to reproduce accurately. There are two big issues:
* Each motion segment requires some processor time to read/receive, parse, and execute. But the shorter the segment lengths are, the faster the printer runs through them. A short move takes little time to perform but still has the same processor load as a long move. At a certain point, the processor can't keep up, and performance suffers. The printer may run out of queued moves to execute and pause in place, or it may violate acceleration limits and violently clunk through corners (or even lose position) because it didn't have enough time to iterate through the calculations that determine how fast it should move.
* The algorithms used by most consumer/hobbyist 3d printer firmwares (Marlin, Repetier, Sailfish, Smoothieware, etc) are based on GRBL. And without getting into the math, GRBL uses the sharpness of the corners between motion segments to decide how fast to travel through the corner. So a 90 degree turn will trigger a considerable slowdown, while a series of small angles (such as many small segments comprising a curved surface) is not recognized by the algorithm, and it will try to barrel through the curve at full speed. On long, gentle curves, this is fine, but high-poly *tight* curves (such as a filleted edge or organic model detail) are traversed far too fast because no slowdowns are triggered. This means high-poly models must be printed at much lower feedrates / target speeds, because the acceleration algorithm can't figure out when to go fast or slow. Whereas a blocky, low-poly model can be printed much faster and the acceleration code will speed up and slow down as needed for good quality.
These are primarily issues with high vertex density versus low vertex density, not variable density. Small pockets of high detail are usually not problematic, as long as they are small enough that the motion planner queue (say, 16 segments) doesn't get filled with too many very small movements. A few small segments in a row is ok, but a few dozen is not.
These are limitations baked into the algorithms used by today's slicers and motion controllers. In the future, they may not be so problematic.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, slicing
--- |
thread-957 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/957 | Seamless prints? | 2016-04-09T10:15:56.380 | # Question
Title: Seamless prints?
Is there a way to make all your prints seamless?? I know there was this program that printed a vase constantly changing the z axis making it seamless. Why cant this be done with regular prints?
# Answer
> 4 votes
If you ever seen 3d printouts on your own and you did keep it in hand then you probably felt layers. Most printouts contains 3 main "components"
1. bottom and top component (floor and ceiling)
2. outline (perimeters)
3. infill (inside supporting structure)
It is almost imposible (and for sure sensless) to create all these components with one continues line as it would be very complex and sophisticated line.
Second reason. It would be very often that printer would cross outlines (perimeters) so it would destroy good looking external surface.
And third reason. Objects can have "islands". Imagine printed elephant which is standing on 4 legs. How to draw leg leyers with one line if these legs are separated (at the floor level).
That's why "round vase" is the only option to print seamless. :)
# Answer
> 2 votes
With Cura (a 3d printing software) you can go to the Expert tab and click Open Settings and you will see under an area called Black Magic, an option to Spiralize the outer contour.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Look into post processing your model with an Acetone vapor Bath.. ABS plastic disolves in acetone. if you put your print in a chamber full of acetone vapor, the outer skin will sort of melt, and give you the effect you are looking for. The goal is to leave it in long enough that the outer skin melts a bit. Too short a time, and you don't get enough melting. Too long a time and more than the skin melts, and the print may deform.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I use Simplify3d as my slicer, and this has a 'vase' mode. You end up with a single wall thickness and it only works on simple shapes without supports.
You get no infill or top surface, so it only works for certain shapes; vases for example!!
---
Tags: prusa-i3, 3d-design, slic3r, slicing
--- |
thread-1196 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1196 | 'Sine wave' deviation in X-Axis on moving bed printer. | 2016-05-18T06:49:31.870 | # Question
Title: 'Sine wave' deviation in X-Axis on moving bed printer.
I've built a a PrintrBot inspired printer with a moving printbed for the X-Axis movement. It's controlled by a RAMPS board running Marlin firmware. And there is a problem with the X-Axis positioning.
As can be seen in the image the X-Axis is not really stable. The blocks should be 10x10x10 mm, and the top and bottom are perfect. The waving does not appear in the Y-direction, it's only in the direction of the bed movement.
Each block was printed at different speed, from medium to dead-slow. I limited the acceleration and in the last block I also limited the non-printing speed so the bed would never experience a higher acceleration than with the printing itself. But the wave effect remains. And it's also remarkably repeatable so it looks more like a synchronisation error somewhere. Does anyone has a clue, or experienced a similar effect ?
# Answer
> 3 votes
This is the issue of your z-axis rather than x- or y-axis because printing speed doesn't have any influence on the results.
I bet:
* your threded rods are bent or
* nuts on these rods have too high clearance or
* nuts on these rods have eccentricity or
* couplings (between motor and threded rods) are bent or
* these couplings are badly fitted
All above suggestions concern z-axis.
**\[edit\]** because it's PrintBot its z-axis has the following disadvantage
---
Tags: print-quality, marlin
--- |
thread-850 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/850 | No extrusion when trying to resume failed print with manually edited gcode | 2016-03-22T15:07:20.670 | # Question
Title: No extrusion when trying to resume failed print with manually edited gcode
I was in the process of printing a 16 hour print, but I must have failed to copy the G-code correctly, because the print stopped after 107 of 223 layers. Looking at the G-code, It also stops there.
However, I had the full G-code on my computer, and decided to try and resume the print from layer 108. It seemed to work, with the exception of a little excess extrusion at a single point in the beginning, but after three layers, i noticed that it wasn't extruding anymore. I am not completely positive that it isn't due to nozzle jamming, but I have a strong feeling that the problem is the G-code itself, as it does extrude some plastic just before printing starts.
Here are the first lines of my manually edited G-code. Can anyone see why I get the blob in the beginning, or why I don't get anything at all later on? Or does it look good, and my problem is probably the nozzle?
```
;FLAVOR:UltiGCode
;TIME:60308
;MATERIAL:119047
;MATERIAL2:0
;NOZZLE_DIAMETER:0.400000
;NOZZLE_DIAMETER2:0.400000
;MTYPE:PLA
;Layer count: 222
;LAYER:109
G0 F9000 X208.213 Y107.948 Z16.610
;TYPE:FILL
G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185
G0 F9000 X210.390 Y103.170
G1 F3600 X168.331 Y61.111 E4107.77457
G0 F9000 X167.074 Y61.111
G1 F3600 X120.237 Y107.949 E4111.25208
G0 F9000 X121.695 Y107.949
G1 F3600 X74.857 Y61.111 E4114.72962
G0 F9000 X73.600 Y61.111
G1 F3600 X26.763 Y107.948 E4118.20709
```
# Answer
According to the RepRap.org list of G-Code commands, see **G0 & G1: Move**:
> The `Ennn` command is *The amount to extrude between the starting point and ending point*.
However, according to this a discussion, that is now deleted from GitHub, about the Cura slicing engine:
The **E** values are in *absolute mode*, so perhaps the firmware is attempting to move the stepper motor to the absolute position (which is almost 50% through your print). This may lead to clogging or skipping depending on how hot your extruder is at that point.
As a last resort, you can perform a Boolean subtract on your model of the section that's already printed and re-slice the model to print the remaining bit. Then glue, or ABS weld, the remaining piece to the main print. I've done this in the past, it's not super glamorous, but it gets the job done if the part doesn't require a lot of structural integrity.
**I was incorrect with the following statements with regard to the Cura slicing engine:**
~~It's been a while since I've looked at 3D printer G-Code, but from what I remember, **E** values can be the bane of any manually written G-Code. Usually the slicing engine generates the **E** value as an incremental step value throughout the G-Code (at least this was true for Skeinforge and early MakerWare, please verify this). So, if the value is incremental and depending on the controller, this value could be lost or corrupt if a new print is initialized.~~
~~I would hope, that if you're using a slicing engine's *custom G-Code* input, that the software would be able to compensate situations like this and reformat your provided G-Code to match the value of **E** or any similar command.~~
> 3 votes
# Answer
I know this is an old thread but I have been running into similar issues with my delta machine with Marlin firmware.
Not all printers running Marlin ignore large `E` (extruder) moves. G-code has always (even in CNC machines) run commands from were the motors are now, to the value in the G-code line. For example, `G0 X10` will move the X motor 10 units. The units are set through `G20` or `G21`.
When your machine has lost power, you need to re-home all axes in order for the machine to know where it is. If you don't, it will likely think that it currently is at 0, 0, 0, 0. Then when you have the line,
```
G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185
```
it will try to go from 0,0,0,0 to 210.390, 105.771, 0, 4104.65185 at the feed rate of 3600. Therefore it is always good to home after power loss and add a `G92 E4104.4` (last line ran before power loss) even if your machine may not need it.
Good habits make for less mistakes.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Is the hotend temperature set correctly? If you only preheat the hotend but then turn it off, it will behave exactly as you described (while you're above `EXTRUDE_MINTEMP` it will behave normally, but once the temperature drops too low it will continue doing the XYZ-moves, but stop extruding). Perhaps you need to add a `M109` command to set the temperature properly.
In his answer, tbm0115 mentions absolute and relative coordinates. Whether absolute or relative coordinates are used is set using the `G90`/`G91` commands and will always be the same for all axes (XYZ and E). He also mentions that:
> so perhaps the firmware is attempting to move the stepper motor to the absolute position (which is almost 50% thru your print). This may lead to clogging or skipping depending on how hot your extruder is at that point.
This shouldn't happen, as extremely long extrude moves are ignored by Marlin. When the printer encounters
```
G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185
```
it performs only the XYZ-part of the move, but doesn't move the extruder (assuming the printer was reset and the current extruder position is 0). However, it does update the internal value for the extruder position, so the next move happens normally. Perhaps missing the initial extrude segment isn't a big deal, but if you want the print to resume perfectly where you left off, you should add a `G92` command to the beginning to initialize the extruder position correctly, for example:
```
G92 E4104.4
```
(but the exact value depends on the last extruder position in the previous layer).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: g-code
--- |
thread-1199 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1199 | Smooth finish in Slic3r using Support Material | 2016-05-19T03:43:21.767 | # Question
Title: Smooth finish in Slic3r using Support Material
How can I obtain a smooth finish like the one in this video: Easy and clean support material removal from 3D printed part., using Slic3r instead of Simplify3D? What settings do I need to change?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I'd say the clue is the material itself and the geometry of the object. But in terms of Slic3r settings you could experiment with:
(print settings \>\> support material)
* pattern spacing (he has here something around 5mm)
* pattern (I'd say the best for you is rectlinear)
* contact z distance (choose 0.2 or close to that)
* interface layers (here 0 (zero) for sure)
* don't support bridges (this one depends on your geometry and if slic3r calculates something as a bridge or not)
All above is also connected (in a way) with HE temperature and layer height. Usualy the higher temperature (in a range for specific material) the better sticking between layers.
---
Tags: slic3r, slicing, smoothing, support-material
--- |
thread-752 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/752 | How to cut OpenBeam/MakerBeam? | 2016-03-14T21:48:18.690 | # Question
Title: How to cut OpenBeam/MakerBeam?
I'm building a 3D printer and I've been looking around for materials suitable to make the frame.
I have occasional access to a laser cutter which I could use to manufacture a ply box-type (UltiMaker) enclosure, but I like the ease of adjustment provided by the T-slot beam kits.
I don't have any metal-cutting machine tools. Can aluminium beam be cut by hand with a hacksaw to a good degree of accuracy? How does one finish the cut end?
# Answer
> 7 votes
Aluminum of almost every grade is very easy to cut with a hacksaw. I would suggest to mark clearly the cut line and to wrap masking tape at the edge of the cut. Consider to allow for about 2-3 millimeters (1/16") extra material for final finishing. Cut across the line, rotate the part ninety degrees and cut again. Once you have the guide cuts in place, you should be able to manage a square cut by following those guides
You will want to have a clamping mechanism available, such as a vise or workbench type device.
After the cut is done, use a sharp file to make final adjustments to the length and appearance. Push the file, do not drag it backwards. Push forward, lift away from the work piece as you return, then push again. Pick up a file card, which is a fine metal-tooth brush used to clear the teeth of the file.
It is very easy to remove material with a hand file, perhaps three or four strokes to remove 1/16".
Your accuracy will depend on the measurement of the lines you create and how carefully you file to the edge of those lines.
# Answer
> 3 votes
As an alternative solution, Misumi sells extrusions precision-cut to length for a very reasonable price. You'll get better quality ends and a more precisely square frame from Misumi than if you try to cut them yourself. The HFS-5 series of 2020 is perfect for 3D printers.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I started to build with wood and then switched to T-extrusions -- very glad I switched. The aluminum is quite nice to work with. The extrusions are quite easy to cut, drill, file, etc. -- a hacksaw should be fine, though I often use a cutoff wheel on a "Rotozip" (basically an oversize Dremel).
Just a couple caveats:
* Think about which extrusions need to be exactly the same length as which others, and use extra care on those. For example, you might have 2 or 4 supports with plates screwed into the ends, and the plates need to be parallel. You'll probably want to cut the supports all a hair long, then clamp them together and file them all at once.
* Extrusions from different companies may differ slightly for the same nominal size. I found that the drop-in nuts that fit my first rails, didn't quite fit the additional ones I bought from another seller later. Also, the center core took a different tap size when tapping the ends.
* Be sure to get at least some drop-in nuts. Plain square nuts are a little cheaper, but it's a pain to disassemble anything to get a nut in when you want to add a bracket or fan or cable guide or something later.
-s
# Answer
> 2 votes
Misumi does provide a nice product but it's quite clear their business model is geared toward businesses and not the individual consumer.
The 2020 extrusion seems to be a bear to get parts for, specifically T-nuts and braces. Openbeam or Makerbeam might be better options and are readily available on Amazon for very decent prices.
---
Tags: desktop-printer, printer-building
--- |
thread-1218 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1218 | 3D Printer Stringing after nth layer | 2016-05-24T00:00:17.293 | # Question
Title: 3D Printer Stringing after nth layer
Quick Question. My Printer is the CTC clone of the Makerbot Replicator Dual.
For my past few prints after `nth` layer the print just starts to go stringy. Here is an example:
I am currently using MakerWare with the following settings
```
{
"_attached_extruders" : [ "mk8", "mk8" ],
"_bot" : "replicatordual",
"_extruders" : [ 0 ],
"_materials" : [ "pla", "pla" ],
"adjacentFillLeakyConnections" : false,
"adjacentFillLeakyDistanceRatio" : 0,
"anchorExtrusionAmount" : 5.0,
"anchorExtrusionSpeed" : 2.0,
"anchorWidth" : 2.0,
"backlashEpsilon" : 0.050,
"backlashFeedback" : 0.90,
"backlashX" : 0.0,
"backlashY" : 0.090,
"bedZOffset" : 0.0,
"bridgeAnchorMinimumLength" : 0.80,
"bridgeAnchorWidth" : 0.80,
"bridgeMaximumLength" : 80.0,
"bridgeSpacingMultiplier" : 1.0,
"coarseness" : 9.999999747378752e-005,
"commentClose" : "",
"commentOpen" : ";",
"computeVolumeLike2_1_0" : false,
"defaultExtruder" : 0,
"defaultRaftMaterial" : 0,
"defaultSupportMaterial" : 0,
"description" : "",
"doAnchor" : true,
"doBacklashCompensation" : false,
"doBreakawaySupport" : false,
"doBridging" : true,
"doDynamicSpeed" : false,
"doDynamicSpeedGradually" : true,
"doDynamicSpeedInteriorShells" : false,
"doDynamicSpeedOutermostShell" : true,
"doExponentialDeceleration" : false,
"doExternalSpurs" : true,
"doFixedLayerStart" : false,
"doFixedShellStart" : true,
"doInfills" : true,
"doInsets" : true,
"doInternalSpurs" : false,
"doMixedRaft" : true,
"doMixedSupport" : true,
"doOutlines" : true,
"doPrintLayerMessages" : false,
"doPrintProgress" : true,
"doPurgeWall" : false,
"doRaft" : false,
"doSplitLongMoves" : true,
"doSupport" : false,
"doSupportUnderBridges" : false,
"endGcode" : "",
"exponentialDecelerationMinSpeed" : 0.0,
"extruderProfiles" : [
{
"bridgesExtrusionProfile" : "bridges",
"feedDiameter" : 1.769999980926514,
"feedstockMultiplier" : 0.9300000000000001,
"firstLayerExtrusionProfile" : "firstLayer",
"firstLayerRaftExtrusionProfile" : "firstLayerRaft",
"floorSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile" : "floorSurfaceFills",
"infillsExtrusionProfile" : "infill",
"insetsExtrusionProfile" : "insets",
"layerHeight" : 0.20,
"maxSparseFillThickness" : 0.10,
"nozzleDiameter" : 0.40,
"outlinesExtrusionProfile" : "outlines",
"raftBaseExtrusionProfile" : "raftBase",
"raftExtrusionProfile" : "raft",
"restartExtraDistance" : 0.0,
"restartExtraDistance2" : 0,
"restartExtraRate" : 25.0,
"restartExtraRate2" : -1,
"restartRate" : 25.0,
"restartRate2" : 25,
"retractDistance" : 1.299999952316284,
"retractDistance2" : 0,
"retractRate" : 25.0,
"retractRate2" : 50,
"roofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile" : "roofSurfaceFills",
"sparseRoofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile" : "sparseRoofSurfaceFills",
"toolchangeRestartDistance" : 18.50,
"toolchangeRestartRate" : 6.0,
"toolchangeRetractDistance" : 19.0,
"toolchangeRetractRate" : 6.0
},
{
"bridgesExtrusionProfile" : "bridges",
"feedDiameter" : 1.769999980926514,
"feedstockMultiplier" : 0.9300000000000001,
"firstLayerExtrusionProfile" : "firstLayer",
"firstLayerRaftExtrusionProfile" : "firstLayerRaft",
"floorSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile" : "floorSurfaceFills",
"infillsExtrusionProfile" : "infill",
"insetsExtrusionProfile" : "insets",
"layerHeight" : 0.20,
"maxSparseFillThickness" : 0.10,
"nozzleDiameter" : 0.40,
"outlinesExtrusionProfile" : "outlines",
"raftBaseExtrusionProfile" : "raftBase",
"raftExtrusionProfile" : "raft",
"restartExtraDistance" : 0.0,
"restartExtraDistance2" : 0,
"restartExtraRate" : 25.0,
"restartExtraRate2" : -1,
"restartRate" : 25.0,
"restartRate2" : 25,
"retractDistance" : 1.299999952316284,
"retractDistance2" : 0,
"retractRate" : 25.0,
"retractRate2" : 50,
"roofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile" : "roofSurfaceFills",
"sparseRoofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile" : "sparseRoofSurfaceFills",
"toolchangeRestartDistance" : 18.50,
"toolchangeRestartRate" : 6.0,
"toolchangeRetractDistance" : 19.0,
"toolchangeRetractRate" : 6.0
}
],
"extruderTemp0" : 208,
"extruderTemp1" : 200,
"extrusionProfiles" : {
"bridges" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 40.0
},
"firstLayer" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 5.0
},
"firstLayerRaft" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 50.0
},
"floorSurfaceFills" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 90.0
},
"infill" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 90.0
},
"insets" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 90.0
},
"outlines" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 40.0
},
"raft" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 90.0
},
"raftBase" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 10.0
},
"roofSurfaceFills" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 90.0
},
"sparseRoofSurfaceFills" : {
"fanSpeed" : 0.50,
"feedrate" : 90.0
}
},
"fixedLayerStartX" : 0.0,
"fixedLayerStartY" : 0.0,
"fixedShellStartDirection" : 215.0,
"floorSolidThickness" : 0,
"floorSurfaceThickness" : 0,
"floorThickness" : 2.0,
"gridSpacingMultiplier" : 0.990,
"infillDensity" : 0.05000000074505806,
"infillOrientationInterval" : 90,
"infillOrientationOffset" : 0,
"infillOrientationRange" : 90,
"infillShellSpacingMultiplier" : 0.70,
"insetDistanceMultiplier" : 1.0,
"jsonToolpathOutput" : false,
"layerHeight" : 0.250,
"leakyConnectionsAdjacentDistance" : 0.0,
"maxConnectionLength" : 10.0,
"maxSparseFillThickness" : 0.250,
"maxSpurWidth" : 0.50,
"minLayerDuration" : 5.0,
"minLayerHeight" : 0.010,
"minRaftBaseGap" : 0.0,
"minSpeedMultiplier" : 0.30,
"minSpurLength" : 0.340,
"minSpurWidth" : 0.120,
"minThickInfillImprovement" : 1.0,
"modelFillProfiles" : {},
"numberOfShells" : 3,
"platformTemp" : 70,
"purgeBucketSide" : 4.0,
"purgeWallBaseFilamentWidth" : 2.0,
"purgeWallBasePatternLength" : 10.0,
"purgeWallBasePatternWidth" : 8.0,
"purgeWallModelOffset" : 2.0,
"purgeWallPatternWidth" : 2.0,
"purgeWallSpacing" : 1.0,
"purgeWallWidth" : 0.50,
"purgeWallXLength" : 30.0,
"raftAligned" : true,
"raftBaseAngle" : 0.0,
"raftBaseDensity" : 0.6999999880790710,
"raftBaseLayers" : 1,
"raftBaseRunGapRatio" : 0.8000000119209290,
"raftBaseRunLength" : 15.0,
"raftBaseThickness" : 0.3000000119209290,
"raftBaseWidth" : 2.50,
"raftExtraOffset" : 0.0,
"raftFillProfiles" : {},
"raftInterfaceAngle" : 45.0,
"raftInterfaceDensity" : 0.3000000119209290,
"raftInterfaceLayers" : 2,
"raftInterfaceThickness" : 0.2700000107288361,
"raftInterfaceWidth" : 0.4000000059604645,
"raftModelSpacing" : 0.2199999988079071,
"raftOutset" : 4.0,
"raftSurfaceAngle" : 0.0,
"raftSurfaceLayers" : 3,
"raftSurfaceShellSpacingMultiplier" : 0.70,
"raftSurfaceShells" : 2,
"raftSurfaceThickness" : 0.2700000107288361,
"roofAnchorMargin" : 0.40,
"roofSolidThickness" : 0,
"roofSurfaceThickness" : 0,
"roofThickness" : 2.0,
"shellsLeakyConnections" : false,
"solidFillOrientationInterval" : 90,
"solidFillOrientationOffset" : -45,
"solidFillOrientationRange" : 90,
"sparseInfillPattern" : "hexagonal",
"splitMinimumDistance" : 0.40,
"spurOverlap" : 0.0010,
"startGcode" : "",
"startPosition" : {
"x" : -112,
"y" : -73,
"z" : 0
},
"supportAligned" : true,
"supportAngle" : 68.0,
"supportDensity" : 0.2000000029802322,
"supportExcessive" : false,
"supportExtraDistance" : 0.50,
"supportFillProfiles" : {},
"supportLayerHeight" : 0.250,
"supportLeakyConnections" : true,
"supportModelSpacing" : 0.4000000059604645,
"supportRoofModelSpacing" : 0.4000000059604645,
"thickLayerThreshold" : 0,
"thickLayerVolumeMultiplier" : 1,
"travelSpeedXY" : 150.0,
"travelSpeedZ" : 23.0,
"version" : "3.9.3"
}
```
If anybody has any ideas please let me know.
Thank You
# Answer
I don't know what was the object like in your plans but it looks like your extruder stopped pushing filament well. I had similar effect when I used extensive retraction with low quality filament. In fact filament was to soft and when it was pressed to hobbed pulley/bolt it became flatened and then stopped flowing. So if your case is similar you could check the following:
* spring tenssion
* knurls
* filament diameter
It's also worth to check if hobbed pulley is screwed tight on motor shaft.
**\[edit\]**
It could be also caused by too fast retraction if knurls are not sharp enough they can slide on or scrap filament.
When you notice that again, stop printing proces, lose springs and pull out filament from hotend and inspect its shape.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: makerbot, pla, replicator-dual, makerware
--- |
thread-1211 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1211 | What is the least expensive 3D printer? | 2016-05-21T21:44:29.903 | # Question
Title: What is the least expensive 3D printer?
What is the least expensive 3D printer available today? I am looking for something suitable for general use in a home office.
# Answer
> 7 votes
**Depends on your definition of "available" and your definition of "suitable for general use."**
The cheapest 3D printers are mostly Kickstarter promises that take a year or more to ship, if they ever do. For example, the Peachy 3D printer Kickstarter just imploded and failed. There have been many other failed low-cost 3D printer crowdfunding campaigns. Another low cost Kickstarter printer, the 101Hero, is ongoing now (May 2016), but most competent observers I've talked to don't believe it will succeed at delivering working printers to all backers at that price point. If they do deliver, it will be painfully low-cost components and the printer will not perform well or last long. **Stay away from crowdfunding campaigns for your first printer.** At best, you get a beta product with lots of kinks to work out. At worst, you get nothing and lose your money.
For actual products you can purchase today, there's a wide spectrum of quality/cost tradeoffs.
* Under \\$200 there's nothing credible. The Tiko (\\$179) might deliver, but post-Kickstarter units are widely expected to cost more.
* Around \\$200-300 you get into low-quality Prusa i3 kits from China. These aren't a great value -- most people end up spending another few hundred dollars on upgrades to get them working reliably and with high quality.
* Around \\$300-400 you can get an *ok* 3D printer, often with "chipped" proprietary filament so the vendor can make high profits on locked-in consumables. ("Razors and blades" model.) For example, the XYZPrinting Da Vinci Jr is \\$350 but locks you into high-cost chipped filament. The Wanhao Duplicator i3 is currently a community favorite for value-for-money at \\$399. The Printrbot Play is much higher quality/reliability but much smaller at the same price.
* If you get up around \\$600, a big range of decent printers opens up. But this is no longer the "least expensive" option, so I won't get into it.
If you want to tinker, the Duplicator i3 is a good choice. If you want a machine that just prints, the Play is a good choice. There are other printers and cheaper printers, but most of what you'll find below $400 is going to end up causing pain unless your goal is simply to tinker with printer troubleshooting and upgrades.
# Answer
> -1 votes
You can get an A8 3D printer on Gearbest at 149$, It's a version of an i3, with easy assemble and pre configured, and it have a suprising good quality.
I thinks is the best price/quality that you can find at the moment. It prints with a good quality by default and you can upgrade it if you need it without spending hundreds of dollars.
http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp\_337314.html
---
Tags: desktop-printer
--- |
thread-1193 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1193 | Hatch Distance and Scan Distance | 2016-05-18T03:58:09.400 | # Question
Title: Hatch Distance and Scan Distance
I am going through some of the basics about one of the 3D printing techniques - Selective Laser Sintering, and I am confused between the above mentioned parameters - scan distance and hatch distance. Are they the same ?
How do we calculate the value - the overlapped area of two parallel scan lines in linear scanning technique. There must be some area of overlapping for the selective laser sintering to work.
Any idea ?
# Answer
> 3 votes
## Scan spacing
> Within each of the ‘islands’, simple alternating scan vectors are used with the spacing between these vectors defined as the ‘scan spacing’ and the speed with which the laser spot moves across the surface defined as the ‘scan speed’.
Source
## Hatch distance
> The stripe pattern is a band defined by the scan vector width (ie stripe width), the hatching space between adjacent tracks and the scan direction as well as the overlap with the neighbouring stripes
Source
## Notes
* The computer controlled laser scans the surface of the bed to selectively melt the current two-dimensional slice of the CAD file.
* The laser scanning remelts some of the previously built layer to ensure good bonding between layers and a fully dense component overall.
* Cool printing image
---
Tags: sls
--- |
thread-1202 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1202 | Cleaning E3D hotend and tuning with Cura? | 2016-05-19T20:03:29.113 | # Question
Title: Cleaning E3D hotend and tuning with Cura?
I just received my E3D v6 hotend and I am installing it on the open source design of a Prusa i3. How do I clean my hotend after each print and after using different filaments?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Usually there is no need to clean the hotend, as filament sticks well to itself rather than to the inside of the hotend. If there are remains - the simplest way to clean it up is to extrude 5-10 cm of new filament, which will gather all remainings clean the hotend.
The above concerns changing filament in the same group of plastic. So if you print PLA you can switch colors/manufacturers and so on without issues. The same goes for ABS.
There is also usually no problem when switching from PLA to ABS.
The worst scenario is to switch from ABS to PLA. This is because the extruding temperature of these two materials is different. Unfortunately ABS can have such a high melting temperature that the PLA will burn. So having a dirty hotend with ABS remainings, there is no way to extrude PLA to clean the hotend because the PLA temperature will not result in melting ABS. It can eventually lead to total plug of HE.
So what can you do when you are in such a situation (ABS -\> PLA)?
You can clean the hotend first with ABS. Extrude some, wait until it is cold, ease the springs and pull or tear out the filament from the hotend.
If you are stuck you can use special drills to clean the nozzle.
But to totally omit the issue you can have two hotends :) One for ABS and one for PLA ;) But I think you can manage cleaning if you apply what I've written above.
# Answer
> 2 votes
As Anton mentions, cleaning your nozzle is commonly done using a **cold pull** (or **atomic pull**). This process involves pulling out your filament from the nozzle while it is still semi-hot. (PLA, for instance will often be pulled at 80-90 celsius, which is the temperature at which it will slowly start to soften.)
The reason why this works is because the filament will stick better to itself when semi-hot, than to the nozzle, and pulling it out in this manner will most likely bring any residue along with it.
This question debates it further, while the video Anton posted demonstrates it well.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I've found a blow torch to work pretty well for clogged nozzles. Note: If your hotend use PTFE tubing internally DONT DO THIS or it may melt and ruin the nozzle.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Or you can use atomic nozle clianning!It woks fine for me :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04T8zdgyh3E
---
Tags: hotend, e3d-v6
--- |
thread-1150 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1150 | Open Source 3D scanning | 2016-05-11T20:46:53.420 | # Question
Title: Open Source 3D scanning
I am trying to make a structured light 3D scanner using single camera, light projector and a turntable.
After days on Google I did not find any reliable open source project which I can get to work. SLStudio really seemed a good choice but did not compile properly.
I was wondering if anyone knows a good open source which they have used with the same kind of setup? Any help would be really appreciated. I am blocked here.
# Answer
I got some really useful resources here but I got rid of structured light approach because of lesser resources.
I used VisualSFM(.exe) , VisualSFM(source) with the turntable for the purpose and got some pretty neat results. Works well and easy to use.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I did find only one 3d scanner which uses structured light. There is many projects using a laser diode. And these systems are completely opensource.
# Structured Light
## Structured Light 3D Scanning by kylemcdonald
# Laser diode
## Sardauscan
## ATLAS 3D Scanner
## Ciclop
## 3D(ollar) Scanner
## "Super Make Something" Tutorial On How To Build a Simple 3D Scanner
# Different method
## $15 3D scanner consists of a tub of milk and a smartphone
Interesting idea of using milk and phone.
> 12 votes
# Answer
I have also been looking for some free or paid software for doing 3D scanning and the closest I have found to something that might work is thishttp://wedidstuff.heavyimage.com/index.php/2013/07/12/open-source-photogrammetry-workflow/ But it isn't Structure from light (doesn't use a projector)
If you want to stick with Structured Light then I would suggest looking into openCV (http://docs.opencv.org/trunk/d1/d90/group\__structured\__light.html#gsc.tab=0) I havn't looked into this much but it looks like you might be able to get something working with it.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You can use a Kinect sensor for Xbox 360 OR Kinect sensor for Xbox One. That sensor allows you to get a true 3D surface with its SDK. You can connect these devices directly to your PC using USB (I have one).
Even the Xbox One model, in its SDK, has an example that allows you export your captured mesh as STL files.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Try Brown University School of Engineering: Projector-Camera Calibration / 3D Scanning Software.
I have not tried it myself, but give it a look.
> 1 votes
# Answer
It is not structured light. This uses a laser:
https://hci.rwth-aachen.de/fabscan
But it is completely open source software / open source hardware.
See also here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14198
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBueeqDJ6rQ
> 1 votes
# Answer
BQ Ciclop 3D Scanner
* Scan Volume: Bigger than 5 cm x 5 cm and smaller than 20 cm x 20 cm
* Scanning Precision: 0.5 mm
All the necessary parts for Ciclop are included in this DIY kit, which comes unassembled.
This Ciclop 3D Scanner Parts List:
* 1 x Plastic parts( 1 set with 11 pcs)
* 1 x Arduino Uno R3 with USB cable
* 1 x ZUM Scan Shield
* 1 x A4988 Stepper Driver
* 1 x C270 HD camera
* 1 x Nema17 stepper motor
* 2 x Laser
* 1 x Power supply adapter
* 1 x 16014 ball bearing
* 1 x M8 threaded rod (9 pcs)
* 2 x Acrylic panel
* 1 x 8mm spiral wrapping band
* 1 x Set of screw and nuts
> -3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, open-source, scanning
--- |
thread-1229 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1229 | Bonding PETG to glass | 2016-05-27T06:57:33.030 | # Question
Title: Bonding PETG to glass
I'm thinking of trying my hand at fabricating microfluidic devices. I'll be using a filament based on PETG (Zortrax's Z-glass filament, which is translucent and resistant to acids and bases). For my plan to work, I'll need to find a good way to bond the PETG model onto a glass microscope slide.
What is the best technique for doing this? Should I use epoxy resin or some other adhesive, or can I solvent bond it? I've heard stories about PETG permanently bonding to a glass print bed, so it seems plausible that solvent bonding might work. Will it work, and if so, what solvent should I use?
# Answer
The solvents that can dissolve PET are pretty nasty -- I wouldn't personally handle any of them outside a lab fume hood. If you have that, a 50/50 mix of MEK and methylene chloride should work. (Increase MEK ratio if you want faster adhesion / less working time, and vice versa.)
First thing I would try is printing directly onto the (super clean) glass. Print the first layer at high temp to try to get a good bond. Then over-extrude to get watertight perimeters. It MIGHT be better to print on a cold bed to keep the PET from popping off when the glass cools, but you would need to do some experimenting.
You could also try heating the slide to the melting temp of PET on a hot plate and then attaching the printed part.
Failing that, a transparent superglue could be a good approach.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: material, post-processing
--- |
thread-1234 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1234 | Grease for PLA sprocket | 2016-05-29T10:44:52.647 | # Question
Title: Grease for PLA sprocket
I am attempting to construct model tank tracks with accompanying wheels and sprockets. All parts will be printed in PLA. The tracks will be driven by electric motors.
What would be a suitable grease for this project to minimize friction without damaging the plastics.
# Answer
I use cosmetic vaseline - petroleum jelly. Usually it is white to transparent and odorless. It's cheap and available in all drugstores and cosmetics stores.
As suggested by Tom van der Zanden I'm adding additional info about interactions of vaseline and plastics. I've found many web sites which claim that vaseline can damage plastics but none of them really proved that statement. There is nothing about it neither on producers sites nor wikipedia or any other believable sources I've found. So according to it and my practice I'm pretty sure that vaseline won't damage popular plastics (including common filaments).
The only information I've found is that vaseline can damage natural rubber but I cannot confirm that on my own.
Of course it might not be true for some materials so be careful and check the interactions first on invisible side or on refuses.
> 7 votes
# Answer
You may find a solution with the common lubricant containing PTFE, often called Super Lube. It is described in manufacturer's literature as non-reactive with virtually everything. It is available at a reasonable price as plumber's grease (look for either Teflon or PTFE in the ingredients) in various quantity containers. When used on metal, you may get black residue. With plastic, some color of the plastic will appear as the surfaces wear. It has good sticking power too.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I have been using *sewing machine oil* for my 3D printed extruder gear for a couple of years, without any noticeable wear so far.
In general, I believe any kind of low viscosity oil would do, but then again, it also depends on the environment in which you plan to use the model. If you plan on using it outside, for instance, you probably should get some grease that does not attract dirt, as the dirt itself will grind down the gears quickly.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: pla, 3d-models
--- |
thread-1239 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1239 | Failing slow extrusion after upgrade to E3D hotend | 2016-05-30T21:58:12.077 | # Question
Title: Failing slow extrusion after upgrade to E3D hotend
I recently upgraded to a E3D full hotend and I started to have problems with slowly printed parts. After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue.
The first two test were extruded around 10mm/s, the right one around 15mm/s. The material is PLA (fillamentum.com) at temperature 210°C and nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. The Rebel II RepRap printer uses RAMPS with marlin firmware. I use Slic3r and Pronterface SW.
I didn't find answer in following troubleshooting guides:
Do you have an idea what can cause this issue?
## Update
I did a new print, where I just heat the hotend and start printing immediately. This is the result:
# Answer
I bet your old and new extruders have different hobbed pulley/bolt effective diameter. It looks like your new extruder has smaller hobbed diameter that's why it pushes too less material.
In MatterControl application there is a slider which allows user to tuneup extrude ratio on the fly (while printing). You coud check it so it would confirm the issue.
In Slic3r you could go to
Printer Settings \> Advanced \> Extrusion width
and experiment with it (especially with Default extrusion width)
Both (Slic3r and MC) could answer your question if it's extrusion ratio issue. If you confirm that - you can proceed with calibration. Here is method to calibrate extruder flow and general calibration article here.
> 2 votes
# Answer
> After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue.
Are you leaving the hotend on between prints? If you leave an E3D hotend heated up while it's not printing, heat will slowly migrate up the heatbreak and start softening the filament there, which will subsequently become stuck. You should turn off the heat immediately after finishing your print (or, ideally, just have your end G-code contain a command to turn the hotend off).
> 2 votes
---
Tags: extruder, slicing, extrusion
--- |
thread-1242 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1242 | Should I consider health impact of ABS or PLA when printing cookie cutter? | 2016-05-31T16:52:13.810 | # Question
Title: Should I consider health impact of ABS or PLA when printing cookie cutter?
Should I consider health impact of ABS or PLA when printing cookie cutter similar to image below?
How safe it is to use ABS or PLA for kitchenware in general?
# Answer
If it's one-time-use, both ABS and PLA are perfectly safe for use as a cookie cutter.
The "food safety" of 3D printed parts is fairly controversial. In fact, whether any particular material is approved by regulators (such as the US FDA) for food contact is much more complex than most people realize. Materials can be accepted for some uses and not others. But there are two major considerations:
1. Does the material leach into the food, or does the food leach into the material?
2. Can the material be adequately cleaned and sterilized between repeated food exposures?
Whether leaching is a concern will depend on the kind of contact. For example, nylon will absorb acids but is often used for potable water service. ABS is fine for cold foods but not hot foods. PLA (injection grade) is often used for disposable plastic forks and cold beverage cups, but rarely reusable containers.
There is some anecdotal evidence that lots of 3D printing filaments, particularly cheap Asian filaments, contain toxic chemicals in the pigments and additives. Heavy metals like lead, cadmium, strontium, and all sorts of nasty organic chemicals have been found. You probably WON'T get any meaningful leaching of these chemicals in the brief exposure with cookie dough, but to be safe I would only use reputable US and EU filament manufacturers for food contact. I would also stick to filament colors that use non-toxic pigments (eg plain white is almost always safe titanium dioxide) or no pigments at all ("natural" color).
When it comes to cleaning a cookie cutter for multiple uses, ABS is probably a much better choice than PLA, because ABS can withstand fairly hot water without losing shape. PLA probably won't survive a cycle through the dishwasher. PETG is perhaps a better choice than ABS for longer contact with wet foods, but may or may not survive the dishwasher.
However, the porous structure of 3D printed parts is a serious problem for cleanliness. The tiny grain structure and voids between extruded strands can act as a safe haven for bacteria between uses. This is particularly an issue with cookie dough containing raw egg. A porous surface for raw-food handling would not be acceptable in a commercial kitchen.
Now, the odds of actually transmitting salmonella via poorly-cleaned cookie cutter may be fairly low. Lots of people cut meat at home on wooden cutting boards (which are also porous) and never get sick. Properly cooking the food immediately after handling will go a long way towards reducing the odds of harmful cross-contamination. You'll have to decide for yourself whether the risk profile is worth it. One-time use is the conservative choice.
> 7 votes
---
Tags: pla, abs, health
--- |
thread-1245 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1245 | Running 12 V on a 24 V heater cartridge? | 2016-06-01T00:30:14.640 | # Question
Title: Running 12 V on a 24 V heater cartridge?
Would I damage anything running 12 V on a 24 V cartridge heater? I know it wont reach a max temperature 300 °C? I am using the E3D hotend set up.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Applying 12 V to a 24 V heater cartridge won't damage anything, but you may have severe issues reaching and maintaining your target temp. A standard E3D heater cartridge is 40 W. When you run a 24 V cartridge on 12 V, you only get 10 W of heater power. Here are some rough estimates on where your hot block heat goes:
* Uninsulated hot block air losses: ~20 W depending on airflow
* Insulated hot block air losses: ~5w depending on airflow
* Filament melt power at typical print speeds: 0.3-3 W depending on filament and print speed
* Heat conducted up the heat break: 1-3 W maybe, hard to quantify
I've never heard of anyone using less than about 16 W to print. (Two 8 W power resistors.) 20 W is the lowest vaguely normal hot end power. I think you'll struggle to print.
---
Tags: electronics, heat
--- |
thread-1251 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1251 | How to choose an extrusion temperature? | 2016-06-02T15:05:32.857 | # Question
Title: How to choose an extrusion temperature?
From what I've been able to find out, online sources recommend around 205ºC for PLA and around 240ºC for ABS. But these are only guidelines, of course. Optimal printing temperature can be different depending on the printer, the filament, the model and other slicer settings.
For example, I've had success printing black PLA at 190ºC, but silver PLA of the same brand is giving me trouble. I'm having a hard time figuring out the general rules. So I would like to see a general guide for this, based on (at least) the following questions:
1. Which known factors before a print can help determine the right extrusion temperature? Obvious example: ABS vs PLA
2. What can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too low?
3. What can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too high?
An answer to the first question could take the form of a lookup table, or similar. The second and third could help someone adjust their temperature based on the symptoms of a failed print.
*I understand that the failure or success of a print can depend on many more factors than extrusion temperature, but I didn't want to make this question too general. I may later ask the same question for other settings (e.g., print speed). However, do let me know if this question should be expanded or improved to make it more useful.*
# Answer
> 10 votes
# Printing temperature basics
Manufacturers generally specify a somewhat wide range of printing temperatures, and what temperature you should actually need can only be determined by trial and error:
1. The thermistor in your hotend is not 100 % accurate and may have an offset of a few degrees compared to its actual temperature.
2. Your hotend has a small temperature gradient, the place where the plastic is melted may have a higher/lower temperature compared to the temperature of your thermistor.
2 is further exacerbated by
3. As you print faster, you need more heat. The cold filament rapidly moving through your hotend will cool it down locally, meaning that the temperature will be cooler than what the thermistor measures. Faster prints equal bumps in the temperature up to 10 °C, and for a really slow print you might turn it down 10 °C from where you normally are.
4. This is a minor issue, but different colors of the same brand and material might work better at different temperatures. The pigments used can affect the melting point somewhat. Different brands also might have different temperatures.
Some symptoms may give you a guide as to how to adjust your temperature:
# Printing too hot
* Small/slow prints may not solidify quickly enough, leaving you with an ugly blob.
* Stringing/bad bridging.
* Plastic in the heatbreak may soften, leading to clogging.
* You might burn/degrade the material (but for this you would really need to go outside of the temperature range).
# Printing too cool
* Too much force required to extrude, leading so skipping/grinding of the filament drive.
* Layer delamination: the plastic needs to be hot enough to partially melt the layer below it and stick to it. Objects printed at a colder temperature tend to be weaker at the layer boundaries.
Furthermore, hot prints can sometimes have a more glossy finish than colder prints.
# Answer
> 3 votes
1. Some manufacturers give a recommended temperature which would be the best place to start at and adjust from there. Otherwise you could print calibration objects and find the best temp that way. Here is a temp tower for that purpose. Mostly it is a trial and error process with all the different printers out there. What might work on one printer may not work on another.
2. The object may come apart if the temperature is too low as the plastic won't bond well between layers. You may also get a rough surface on the object and the filament may also jam in the hotend as well.
3. Normally temperatures that are too high, your bridging wont be as good and you will get a lot of stringing. Stringing example, more filament will ooze out before retracting if your temperature is too high. Your overhangs may also curl at the edges as well.
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Tags: print-quality, extruder, hotend, knowledgebase
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thread-1125 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1125 | Auto Bed-Leveling with Inductive Proximity Sensors and Magnets | 2016-05-07T22:56:22.680 | # Question
Title: Auto Bed-Leveling with Inductive Proximity Sensors and Magnets
I recently decided to upgrade to auto bed-leveling using an inductive proximity sensor and an aluminum build plate on my Prusa i3. I also wanted to try to secure the build plate using neodymium magnets at 4 points, with the magnets being secured with bolts to the Y-carriage, and steel washers glued to the bottom of the aluminum build plate (since aluminum is not magnetic).
I would like to know if anybody has attempted this, and what the results were, as well as any issues incurred. My primary concern is a possible interference between the small magnetic field that is created by the magnet, and the sensor when probing the plate. I fear this question may sound a little open-ended, but I would just like to know if this could work. Please feel free to ask any follow up questions to details I may have missed. Thank you.
P.S. I would also like to note, in case there is any relevance, I do not plan on using a heated build plate, since I have a heated build chamber.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Good question. The magnets from the build plate will almost certainly interfere with your inductive sensor, the movement from the carriage will induce a current in the inductor as it approaches the magnet and may cause it to trigger. If you're looking for a mag build, I'd suggest looking at: http://www.3dprintermods.com/prestashop/index.php?id\_product=9&controller=product
I'm just about to get into auto-leveling myself, with this particular build there are a few ways to get around the issue. If you plot your auto level to occur as far from the magnets as possible (x,y location wise), then you might be ok. Otherwise you might consider investigating optical and touch probes.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You might use the magnets themselves or additional ones on top for the leveling process, as partly discussed in this thread:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,479795
A mechanical or piezo switch might also solve the issue for you with a lot less guesswork and trouble.
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Tags: prusa-i3, printer-building
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thread-1262 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1262 | Slicer that exports vectors or pics for every slice | 2016-06-05T14:24:14.600 | # Question
Title: Slicer that exports vectors or pics for every slice
For a large scale project, I need a slicer which gives me the slices as image (BMP or vector). I have a 3d model and want to assemble it manually using large printouts on cardboard. For this I need my 3d model somehow sliced into 2mm layers, get a silhouette of the outline for every layer and print it in cardboard. Later all cardboard layer will be cutted manually and glued in the right order.
Does somebody know a slicer, which gives me as output images for every slice? Or any different idea how to geht my large cardboard 3d model?
# Answer
Your approach is one of many and you may find that Slic3r will do as you require.
There's a direct reference to generating SVG files (vector) at this link: http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/svg-output
You may have to create a printer profile based on irrational figures when compared to conventional 3d printers. Your 2mm "layer height" should be matched in the printer settings to an appropriate nozzle diameter for the desired result.
You may find also that Simplify3d will create such files, but it's not a free program.
An alternative to 3d printer slicing software would be to use OpenSCAD to import your model (or create it directly in code) and use the Projection command to generate the individual layers. I've done this and found it works well, but the process to learning the necessary code was time consuming, as I'm not a programmer.
You would also want to incorporate some form of registration in your model, cylindrical holes or external tabs to enable you to properly align each cardboard layer.
If you have a makerspace nearby or know someone with a suitably sized laser cutter, you may also save some labor cutting each panel, as the laser will accept the vector files easily.
> 3 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, slicing
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thread-1264 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1264 | Car Body shop Printers | 2016-06-05T20:46:02.477 | # Question
Title: Car Body shop Printers
What type of printer would one recommend to print and cast car body parts fast on a large scale? Also if I were to print parts for restoration would I need licences from the manufactures?
# Answer
The Materialise Mammoth printers seem to be the predominant choice for manufacturing car body parts. However, any sufficiently large printer (e.g. bigrep) could work. That said, car body parts are quite a challenge to 3D print given how excruciatingly long such large parts take (exacerbating the probability of failure). You will have to very carefully consider whether 3D printing is right for your application (it probably is not).
The licensing part is extremely complicated. You'll have to deal with patents (perhaps the body part incorporates some clever patented feature), trademarks (you generally can't reproduce manufacturer's logo's) and copyrights (if the part is very "artistic" it might be protected by copyright, but this is unlikely). A simple, functional part such as a body panel would generally not be protected by any of these but these three things are the main reason why you *might* need a license.
In addition, you have to be careful as to which materials you use, as these will (most probably) not be as strong/durable as those that are produced by car-parts-manufacturers. Furthermore, if you print the parts yourself, install it in a customer's vehicle, and the vehicle malfunctions, as a result, you may find yourself being sued.
> 4 votes
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Tags: 3d-design
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thread-1271 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1271 | 3D printing with blender | 2016-06-06T13:33:48.803 | # Question
Title: 3D printing with blender
I have an object that I want to print in 3D. But I have a few questions about it. What are the things that I have to watch out for when 3D printing?
I know how to change the metric size etc. Some people said that it's best to set the thickness to a low amount and not make the object solid (to leave the inside empty/hollow) in order to save money when printing.
Is this true or does it not matter?
Also what if I want two parts of an object to be separate colours or materials? Do I have to change this in Blender?
Any advice and information would be helpful, thanks.
# Answer
> 4 votes
You are correct about the walls. Using a *Solidify* object modifier is probably your best bet. A low *Thickness:* value (*0.1* is probably good) helps keep the walls thin but strong. You can monitor the thickness while you adjust the value from *Wireframe* view.
Additionally, and **this is probably the most important thing to know**, your mesh must be clean. By clean, I mean it must all be one piece. No separate cubes, cylinders, etc. that you added while modeling, just one solid piece. Think about it this way. If you have added a cube and part of that cube is inside the rest, it might look good from the outside. But the 3D Printer isn't printing the outside, it's printing everything. So that wall, albeit hidden, that is present on the inside of your mesh **will be printed**.
*Bad:*
*Good:*
Lastly, if you have parts of your mesh that can't be printed from the bottom up, or wouldn't stand by itself, consider adding supports. You can always cut these off later.
*Leg added because it wouldn't stand by itself:*
# Answer
> 3 votes
> What are the things that i have to watch out for when 3d printing?
non manifold geometry : geometry that can not exist in the real world.
It's a good idea to check if the dimensions of your mesh are correct before exporting:
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Turning on mesh analysis allows visual inspection of problems such as intersecting faces, sharp edges ,edges with thickness below a threshold and other criterias.
*the inspection tool will color the faces with those problems.*
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And lastly you can make selections by traits, such as loose geometry, interior faces or unconnected vertices.
*note that those are just tools to help you find the problems , none of them will fix the mesh for 3d printing.*
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, software, blender
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thread-1225 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1225 | Repetier Host stops sending commands to printer when switching Windows user | 2016-05-25T02:43:42.500 | # Question
Title: Repetier Host stops sending commands to printer when switching Windows user
I'm running Repetier Host v1.6.1 with Repetier Firmware v0.92.9. My computer is running Windows 7 Pro SP1, 64-bit.
If I set a print going via USB then switch to another user (note: I do not log out), then the pinter's display shows that the command buffer drops from 16 to 0 until it stops printing altogether. If I switch back to the user that is running Repetier Host then the buffer fills up again and the print job resumes.
Before I updated Repetier Host this didn't happen, I could leave it running while I switched users and the job would run just fine. I'm not sure why this behaviour has changed, but is there any way to get it to run properly under a background user?
# Answer
Is it possible that in updating Repetier you inadvertently installed it for a single user rather than for everyone? If so, that might account for its stopping when the user is changed.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I believe what happens here is that Windows suspends the process running the print job, either due to the program not being in focus, because you switch user, or both.
You could try to *increase the priority of the print process in task manager*, and see if that helps.
**In Windows 7:**
1. Open Task Manager
2. In the *Applications* tab, right click the application, and select *Go To Process*, which will take you to its background process in the *Process* tab.
3. Right click the process, go to *Set Priority* and select some priority higher than the current level.
**In Windows 10:**
1. Open Task Manager
2. In the *Processes* tab, right click the application, and select *Go To Details*, which will take you to its background process in the *Details* tab.
3. Right click the process, go to *Set Priority* and select some priority higher than the current level.
*PS: Avoid setting the priority to Realtime, as that effectively will give the process full control of your computer's resources, which could kneel your computer if the program is poorly written.*
> 0 votes
# Answer
Maybe you've changed your power settings and that's why your USB port stops working when switching user (for power conservation). I know you've said it was working before Reptier update but maybe it's worth to check.
1. So go to Start \> Control Panel \> Power Options
Find your (selected) power plan and choose Change plan settings \> Change advanced power settings
Then check USB Settings \> USB selective suspend settings
to be sure - set both to **Disable**
2. Another place to check is My Computer \> Manage \> Device Manager \> Universal Serial Bus controllers
And here there are at least 2 items to check
* Generic USB Hub
* USB Root Hub
both have tab Power Management and checkbox Allow computer to turn off this device to save power - **uncheck** them
I know it doesn't sound very wise but who knows... :)
> 0 votes
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Tags: software, repetier, repetier-host
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thread-1275 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1275 | Heated bed thermistor placement | 2016-06-07T15:06:01.907 | # Question
Title: Heated bed thermistor placement
I just recently upgraded my Printrbot Simple Metal with a heated bed (and longer x-axis). I looked up some tutorials, and all of them placed the thermistor as in the picture on the left below, so I did too. However, the design of the heat plate seems to strongly suggest thermistor placement as in the picture on the right, inside the small hole near the center.
I can certainly see the upside of that. The reported temperature may overshoot the average bed temperature (the reasoning used in the tutorials I read), but most of my prints are built in the center of the bed, and the center placement would surely make the temperature control system more responsive.
What are the pros and cons of these placements? And what would be the proper technique for putting the sensor in the center? Should I still use kapton tape? Do I need to make sure the thermistor makes physical contact with the aluminum of the print bed?
# Answer
Depending on thermistor type you can get values from around 1ohm/C to 0.01ohm/C so placing it on particulat place on heatbed (HB) could be very important. If objects are placed in the center then it's quite obwious that thermistor should be placed also in the middle.
Another issue in terms of thermistors are the wires. Because thermistors can be so sensitive then wires should have as less influence as possible on its temperature capacity. That's why wires and thermistor legs are so thin. Generally thiner than regular element's legs.
Answering your question - I would say it's better to put thermistor in the center hole, to use thermal grease in the hole so thermistor would have contact with HB. And personally I would use special thin wires to connect thermistor to the board. Kapton tape is then usefull to position thermistor head in the hole and in the thermal grease. Have a look on the picture.
I have such configuration. (In fact I got additional insulation as mentioned in this thread).
I would not recommend to use circuit board tracks as a thermistor connectors at all, but it's my opinion of course.
**\[edit\]**
Please be careful - thermal grease can be electrical conductor or insulator. You should choose insulator because short circuit thermistor legs will cause measuring impossible.
**\[edit2\]**
As you know HB is not even necessary when you print PLA so in this case it can be even better to not have heating at all than to overheat the bed. Because if you put your thermistor near to the edge of HB then (as said by Leo Ervin) the difference can be at level of 20C so if you heat around 70C and you get 90C your model can become soft on the bed surface and it will loose dimensions or you'll get elephant foot.
As stated in the comments - it's not really big deal whether you measure the temperature in the center of somewhere around. The issue is what level of perfection is ok for you.
> 2 votes
# Answer
It doesn't make a great deal of difference where you place the thermistor; do whatever is most convenient for you. The temperature of the heated bed is not very critical, and some inaccuracy in the measurement is perfectly fine. The point is to keep the print from cooling down too fast, and whether the bed is at 95C or 93C makes little difference.
The pros and cons of thermistor placement are exactly as you describe: in either case the center of the bed will be hotter than the edges. Placing the thermistor in the center the temperature of the center will equal the setpoint, while the edges are cooler than the setpoint. Placing the thermistor at the edge the edge will be at the setpoint while the center will be hotter than the setpoint. Placing the sensor at the center you would need to use a slightly lower setpoint to get the same result compared to having the sensor at the edge.
It is possible the holes in the PCB are meant for if the PCB is used with a different printer. In any case, soldering the thermistor to the pads and placing it in the hole is acceptable, kapton tape wouldn't be required then (but can't hurt either). It would be best if the thermistor made good contact with the heated bed surface, using (non-conductive!) thermal paste would be convenient for this (but not strictly required).
> 2 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, thermistor
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thread-1281 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1281 | Creating positives for a food-safe silicone mold: safe? | 2016-06-07T23:22:16.030 | # Question
Title: Creating positives for a food-safe silicone mold: safe?
First, a little background. A couple of years ago, I was researching making my own candy, and I came across this page: Lego brick shaped gummy candies, describing how to use real Lego bricks as a positive to make silicone molds for Lego brick shaped candy. Now that I have a 3D printer, and inspired by the usual description of ABS filament ("It's the same plastic used to make Lego bricks") it occurs to me that I can now make any positive I want.
The question is, would that be safe? I know the filament I'm using is not food safe, but if I create positives for a food safe silicone mold, would toxins leech into the mold? And if so, is there a barrier I can use to prevent this, such as some kind of coating?
# Answer
> 4 votes
In principle, ABS is safe for contact with (cold or room-temperature) food. The two main concerns specific to 3D printing are, assuming you start with a filament that is not itself contaminated:
1. Pores and holes in the printed part which may harbor bacteria
2. Impurities introduced into the plastic during the printing process
I doubt that the silicone mold will capture the pores and holes with sufficient detail to be of any concern (it certainly won't capture the internal structure, only the surface).
That leaves us with 2. It has been noted that brass nozzles contain trace amounts of lead. This lead can contaminate the printed part, which may in turn contaminate your mold, which may in turn contaminate your food. I don't think this is of realistic concern, since we're looking at trace amounts of trace amounts of lead. The nozzle might also have burnt plastic stuck to it (which might be carcinogenic) so you should make sure to do the print with a very clean nozzle and at a temperature that is not too high.
ABS is food safe for contact with cold or room-temperature food. It is however not food safe for contact with hot food, because at higher temperatures the food may leach certain chemicals out of the plastic. Your application is one of low temperature, but silicone is not food and might perhaps leach some contaminants out of the plastic, regardless of temperature. However, this concern is not specific to 3D printing, as it applies to the method of making moulds out of Lego bricks as well. Therefore, making moulds from 3D printed positives does not appear to be different in a food safety perspective from making them out of LEGO blocks.
# Answer
> -1 votes
The plastic is not quite your main concern (though it still can be). You should worry about the cracks and crevices in FDM prints. Bacteria loves to hide there. For most people, this is the first concern when it comes to "Is X 3D printed food-safe?" If the end product is a hard material, you should sand or smooth your print to prevent the layer crevices from appearing in the end use product. Also consider food-safe epoxies for filling in gaps. If the end product is made of a flexible silicone, then this is less of a concern.
ABS is not food safe. PLA as a material is considered food safe by the 3D printing community, but I have not seen a scientific study on this. However, many filament makers do not extrude pure PLA. Therefore, the answer to your question is that it depends on the manufacturer. You will need to contact the company to know what is in the filament first. Beware of untrustworthy manufacturers that claim food safety without backing that up.
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Tags: safety, food
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thread-1277 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1277 | Do I need to recalibrate z-probe offset every time I switch to a different layer height? | 2016-06-07T20:00:05.497 | # Question
Title: Do I need to recalibrate z-probe offset every time I switch to a different layer height?
It occurs to me that I'm never really thinking about layer height when I calibrate my z-probe offset. This is obviously an oversight, because I'll want my nozzle to start higher for 0.3mm layers than for 0.1mm layers.
After this realization comes the question: Do I need to recalibrate every time I switch to a different layer height? Or can slicers store a reference layer height + probe offset and just deduce the proper starting height for every print? Or is it smartest to keep the 1st layer height constant throughout my prints to spare myself this frustration?
If it matters, my printer is the Printrbot Simple Metal, and my goto slicer is Cura.
# Answer
All modern slicers adjust the nozzle position for the first layer in accordance with your chosen layer height. You can see this in your gcode if you slice files with different layer heights. *Before you add special slicer settings and offsets,* if you print 0.1mm layers, the nozzle will start at Z=0.1mm, and if you print 0.3mm layers, the nozzle will start at Z=0.3mm.
There are two reasons this is more complex and less reliable than it seems:
**Different slicers assume different initial tramming gaps.** And your actual tramming gap may not match that assumption. If the slicer thinks your nozzle is leveled at Z=0 with a real physical gap of 0.1mm to start with, that means gcode Z=0.1mm is actually a 0.2mm gap that must be filled with plastic. So the slicer must compensate by starting lower than the nominal layer height.
So what works perfectly for one slicer won't necessarily work correctly for another slicer. And if you tram with a thinner object than the slicer expects (say a post-it note instead of business card) then your first layer will be off. This is why I personally prefer physical build plate leveling mid-print using screws while watching the strands go down. It bypasses all the assumptions about tramming gaps and just gives you the correct result. (Or you can do the same thing with babystepping in firmware that supports that.)
The other issue is that **people use lots of weird, ad hoc slicer tricks to get their first layer to stick**. Things like printing the first layer much hotter, or at half speed, or squashed way down and over-extruded, or at 60% layer height, or at 200% extrusion width, will all affect the extrusion volume calibration and the space-filling behavior of the molten plastic flowing onto the bed. The slicer doesn't really have the ability to understand "your" first-layer adhesion recipe.
The combination of incorrect/unknown tramming gap and person-specific first-layer settings is why the slicer can't always get the first layer height and extrusion volume correct across all layer heights. Within some fairly reasonable assumptions, the slicer is smart enough to always correctly relate extruder flow and nozzle position so it fills the space between the nozzle and whatever surface you're printing onto. But if you break those assumptions, it may perform differently for different settings.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Calibrate to perfection for a specific layer height. When printing in a layer height that is different than what you calibrated for, just set the first layer height in the slicer.
That way, you avoid re-calibration as much as possible.
My experience: I've overlooked this issue in my experience too. I would usually print in 200 microns. Then for a specific piece I would try to print in 100 microns, and my first layer wouldn't stick. Manually calibrating sucks, setting the first layer height fixes this issue with no discernible drawbacks.
> 2 votes
# Answer
The first layer is usually squished more to help with the adhesion. On top of that with ABS there's a bit of deformation even if the print doesn't lift. So spare yourself the frustration, FDM 3d printers aren't that precise themselves for you to care about this.
> 0 votes
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Tags: calibration, z-axis, z-probe, layer-height
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thread-4 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4 | Are there any metals that exhibit a large glass state? | 2016-01-12T18:50:55.973 | # Question
Title: Are there any metals that exhibit a large glass state?
Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly because it had a wide temperature range for its glass state - where it can be flowed with some force, but won't flow due only to gravity.
Most metals have a very narrow, or non-existant, glass state. They transition from solid to liquid with almost no flowable-but-not-liquid state.
Are there any metals or alloys that display a glass transition state?
# Answer
A few things are required for effective extrusion-style 3d printing materials:
* It must stay where placed by the nozzle long enough to harden (or, alternately for pastes and such, have a shear-thinning or thixotropic viscous profile so it will not flow under its own weight).
* If using a filament extruder, it must have a wide range of viscosity that varies gradually over a considerable temperature range. This is necessary to develop the proper "cap zone" semi-melt shearing behavior that allows the incoming filament to act like a piston and generate pressure upstream of the nozzle. Pellet extruders have a similar requirement but related to screw/wall shearing rather than filament/wall shearing. If using neither filament nor pellets, such as clay printers, the material must be pumpable by a positive-displacement pump. (It is possible to pump molten metal, but the cost is quite high.)
* It must form some kind of bond with previously-deposited solid material, without needing to be in a state that will rapidly flow and lose shape.
* It must have some combination of low shrinkage, the ability to creep at the printer's ambient temp, and/or low stiffness that allows consecutive layers to be stacked without an unacceptable amount of warping.
Liquid metals tend to have a conflict between "Staying where you put it" and "bonding with the previous layer." In order for deposited metal to fully bond, the interface material needs to reach the melting point so a true fusion weld occurs. And in order to supply enough heat to remelt the interface without an additional heat source like an arc, the deposited molten metal needs to be very hot. So it will tend to run while it cools. High density and high heat capacity makes it run fast and cool slowly.
Pretty much every DIY metal 3d print (such as made by wire-feed MIG welders) ends up looking something like this:
https://3dprint.com/29944/diy-metal-printing-garage/
In comparison, polymers have long molecular chains that allow them to "diffusion weld" and adhere WITHOUT fully remelting the interface. Molten liquid plastic will stick to solid plastic quite effectively. The interface only needs to get hot enough for appreciable diffusion to intertwine the molecular chains. This will occur between the glass point and melting point, without true fusion occurring. So you can print molten plastic at a temperature where it will stay in place long enough to harden, and still get good bonding.
Metals also tend to be very stiff, which encourages warping. It is difficult to build a heated environment of sufficient temperature to properly stress-relieve the thermal contraction stress as the print progresses, whereas with plastic a heated build plate and warm enclosure can permit warping stresses to start relaxing as the print progresses.
**It is possible to "FDM-style" 3d print filament/wire made of metal alloys that have a wide range between solidus and liquidus.** It has been done using solder and similar alloys. However, between the warping stresses, poor layer bonding from inadequate interface re-melting, and use of soft low-melting alloys, **the resulting printed parts will usually end up being weaker than if they had simply been printed in a strong plastic.** For example, PEEK is nearly as strong as aluminum, and carbon fiber or fiberglass composite plastics can exceed metals on various performance metrics. So what's the point of printing with weak, brittle metal alloys?
Over the years, lots of people have tried FDM-style metal printing, but no one has found it worthwhile to pursue in the long run. More typical DIY metal printing approaches like 3D MIG welding following by cleanup machining will produce better results.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I"m no expert on this, but the article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous\_metal may be relevant for you.
There are some special alloys, such as gold/silicon and various titanium-based ones, that become "bulk metal glasses" if cooled extremely quickly (for example, by sputtering onto a spinning cold surface). The speed of cooling prevents crystal formation. Early BMGs were quite strong but brittle; improvements have reduced brittleness and required cooling speed.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I think the closest you're going to get is with a composite material. Over the last 2 years or so, there have been more and more composite filaments emerging on the market for consumer 3D printers. I good example of composite filaments can be seen on Proto-Pasta. Since the filament must mostly be comprised of the polymer "binder", the material will obviously not exhibit all the properties of both.
Without getting into too much Material Science, consider the composite of both ABS and Iron (or some other ferrous-based metal). You cannot expect to print a solid circuit out of the filament because the iron may not be represented throughout all directions of the filament, therefore resulting in resistance or flat out non-conductivity.
So, to answer your question: I'm not aware of a significantly larger glass state in a type of metal/alloy. Your best bet is a composite, but it depends on the requirements for your part if a composite will work. Then, you'll have another battle of finding the right type of composite and worst of all, a good supplier lol
> 5 votes
# Answer
I spent some time looking at making an FDM machine that would print bronze filament. An alloy commonly made into wire had a difference between the solidus and liquidus temperature of only 50 degrees C. I determined that one could make a conventional hot end, electrically heated, made of either molybdenum or tungsten.
I did not determine how the bronze would behave in the 50 degree solid-to-liquid zone. I was more concerned about the solubility of the nozzle material in copper, for which I could find very little published data.
From my experience welding, and from printing plastics with FDM, there could be a problem with layer adhesion. To really bond, the cooled material needs to be melted by the material being deposited in the next layer. This is complicated by the temperature of the cooled material, the thermal conductivity of the material, and the propensity of the material to form oxides. These could be mitigated by heating the object in an inert atmosphere.
So, to answer the question, I would suggest looking at bronze alloys because they melt at moderate temperatures, and are less prone to oxidation than aluminum alloys.
> 4 votes
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Tags: fdm, material, print-material, metal-parts
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thread-1310 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1310 | Not Heated Build Plate Glue Amount and Dry Duration | 2016-06-11T12:19:06.190 | # Question
Title: Not Heated Build Plate Glue Amount and Dry Duration
**Background:**
I am using the Flux Delta 3d Printer, and it arrived with a glue stick. Now on their forums it said to apply 2 layers of glue and let it dry, there's supposed to be a link there on how long it should dry. However that link is broken.
**My question:**
On a not heated bed, how much glue-stick should I apply and for how long should I let it dry?
# Answer
> 3 votes
As a fellow Flux Delta owner, I can answer this question with certainty. Two layers is sufficient. Be sure to consider the size of the model being printed and the additional area covered if you are using skirts or rafts.
If you apply the glue stick at the moment you turn on the printer, it will be dry enough to work properly. The printer "uses time" to initialize and to calibrate which provides enough drying time. You will also "use time" to load the software and import the model.
It is not necessary to remove the glue from the plate after a print. For succeeding model printing, ensure that you've filled in the areas missing glue from removing the previous model.
You will want to remove the glue (hot water works good, but the build plate gets hot!) when you feel that the glue build-up changes the texture of the bottom layers.
You may have already learned from the forums that you print on the non-grid side of the build plate.
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Tags: desktop-printer, build-plate
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thread-1312 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1312 | How often should I replace the glue layers on the bed? | 2016-06-11T15:31:38.163 | # Question
Title: How often should I replace the glue layers on the bed?
I am printing on a non-heated bed right now, but the question also applies to heated building plates.
How often should you replace the glue layers that's supposed to be applied before printing? Some say you can do up to a few prints, such as in this forum, while others say to replace it every print. What is the correct approach?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Depends on the glue and on your tolerance for messy undersides on your prints. It's fairly common for some of the glue to come off with the print. Or you may have marks from scrapers or rafts. Do you want to touch up that spot and have some artifacts on the bottom of the next print, or clean and redo the bed to get everything flat?
Gluestick is pretty easy to wash and reapply. It can also be freshened up with a gentle spray of water, smeared flat, and redried, or more gluestick added on top. It will really come down to your preferred workflow.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I usually add some glue each time I print a new part. I re-apply over places where recent part left a visible "footprint". But after a few prints, the glue layer becomes too thick so it has influence on the height of the first layer. If so, I dismount the glass and clean it with hot water. I do this after about 5 prints... (+/- of course).
Generally the glue becomes white when it dries up, so I use this as an indication or sign for when it has to be cleaned.
I would say there are no strict rules. Do some experiments and observe the first layer surface. Then you'll find your correct way.
# Answer
> 2 votes
As noted in the answer to the other question you asked, the Flux Delta steel plate bed will handle multiple layers of glue. The determining factor regarding this particular printer and specific glue is how many ripples, bumps and/or lines you are willing to tolerate on the first layer of your prints.
You'll notice that a print made with a couple layers of glue, freshly applied, will have a relatively smooth surface. Peel off the model, apply glue over the now-cleared areas, and you've created a slightly-less-than-smooth surface for your next model.
I've found that I can apply six to ten layers before the ripples become objectionable.
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Tags: desktop-printer, heated-bed, build-plate
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thread-1160 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1160 | How to choose printer with dual extruder? | 2016-05-13T09:25:18.297 | # Question
Title: How to choose printer with dual extruder?
I use Prusa i3 with one extruder for some years and I would like to print from one material in two colors or from different materials for one model. Therefore I'm lookig for new printer with dual extruder.
Is there some way how to measure and/or compare quality of printers with dual extruder on the market?
For example to create 3d model - ask the seller(s) to print it - and then compare? - what details to focus on?
# Answer
> 8 votes
As you suggest yourself, ordering test prints of some model is one way to do it.
3D Hubs and MakeXYZ allows you to get your model printed by hobbyists and small businesses for a fair price. Both sites also allow you to order prints based on printer type, which I believe is what you may be looking for.
On 3D Hubs, visit on of the trend reports, and select the printer you want a sample from. Similarly, on MakeXYZ, search local makers for your desired printer.
# Answer
> 3 votes
"Make" Magazine compares 3-D printers in a way that is as scientific as possible to help determine the strengths/weaknesses of each 3-D printer compared to others. The link to the November 2015 comparison test is available here: http://makezine.com/comparison/3dprinters/ I was unable to find the ability to compare among dual-extruders, however.
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Tags: dual-nozzle
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thread-1323 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1323 | How to line up (x,y) print area between hardware and software? | 2016-06-12T11:29:14.060 | # Question
Title: How to line up (x,y) print area between hardware and software?
I'm trying to line up the physical print bed of my printer (Printrbot Simple Metal) to the virtual print area of the slicer (Cura). So far, they've never been properly aligned. It was never that big a problem because, worst case scenario, my print would simply not be dead-center on the bed. But I've decided to try and fix it.
**Here are pictures of a test model in Cura, and the resulting physical print:**
What's the proper way to align the two? It seems I just got lucky with the x-axis here (though note that the BuildTak surface is a bit off center). But obviously the y-axis needs fixing. The print needs to start a little lower, because print-head couldn't reach the highest point, and the y-axis motor slipped to compensate.
Ideally, the fixed parameters of the print bed size and offset would be set by the Marlin firmware (EEPROM?). But I also need to be able to do a little offset tweaking on the software side for when I need to replace the BuildTak mat.
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**Edit:** I tried `M206` (home offset) commands, but the result is definitely not what we want. I cancelled these early.
The upper print has `M206 Y-15`, the lower print has `M206 Y15`. What seems to happen is that the coordinate system is not physically shifted. Instead, the area is 'cropped'. All filament that *should* go outside the boundaries is actually extruded 'on the edge', resulting in an ugly blob.
# Answer
The problem you are experiencing is because the position where the y endstop is triggered does not correspond to `y = 0`, but perhaps corresponds to `y = 15` (replace 15 by the offset you're seeing). You can perhaps solve this by adjusting the endstop to trigger at the correct point, but you can also adjust this behavior in software: In your start G-code, after the homing (`G28`) command, insert a `G92 Y15` to tell the printer that the current position (reached after homing) is actually `y = 15`.
Another option is to use the `M206` command to permanently store the offset in EEPROM (rather than needing to provide it in the start code each time).
If your printer moves towards max rather than min, the same applies, but consider that the offset may be caused by the bed size defined in your firmware not corresponding to the bed size set in your slicer.
> 5 votes
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Tags: software, slicing, firmware, build-plate
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thread-1325 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1325 | How to 3D Print 5-pointed star object that doesn't have flat bottom and hole in the middle? | 2016-06-12T21:13:39.727 | # Question
Title: How to 3D Print 5-pointed star object that doesn't have flat bottom and hole in the middle?
I'm new to 3D Printing. I've created this star from Blender3d. As far as I know, most printers require a flat bottom.
As you can see (blue line is Z-axis, red line is X-axis, green line Y-axis), the star doesn't have any flat sides or points.
There's a hole in the middle of the star.
Is there a printer (brand/model) that can print this object that doesn't have any flat bottom or sides having a hole that goes through in the middle? Any workarounds to print this object?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Typical FDM desktop 3D printers might struggle with this model as it requires you to either print large overhangs and use support structure (when printed laying down), or lacks a natural flat bottom surface to get good print adhesion (when printed upright). A couple of suggestions:
1. Some FDM printers are great at printing support, and some even allow you to print dissolvable support structure. If you find one of these, you are home safe.
2. You could split the model in two, print those parts separately, and then glue them together afterwards. This is quite common for complex models, and allows you to print your model on even basic FDM printers. Tom's answer illustrates this well.
There are naturally other 3D printer technologies too (SLA, resin etc.), but I have no practical experience with these myself, and leave it up to others to give you a good answer regarding these.
# Answer
> 5 votes
The existing answer seems to suggest printing the model in the orientation as shown (e.g. with the Z-axis of the part corresponding to the Z-axis to the printer) with either support or splitting it in half.
Using supports in this way is a bad idea, because it will leave a very rough surface finish due to the geometry (and be very hard to remove, unless you want to deal with troublesome support material). The model also will have no contact with the build plate at all, making it very likely that it will detach (even when you're using support, you want a reasonable amount of surface area making contact with the build plate). You'd have to drill out the hole in the middle (since support can not be removed there).
The approach of splitting it in half and printing in this orientation isn't ideal either, because the surface finish will again be very rough due to the very gentle curves of the star. The hole in the middle will also turn out a bit deformed and flattened and require support.
Instead, for this model, a much better approach is to split it like this:
The top half has no overhang at all, and the bottom half only has gentle overhangs that are easy to print without support. The surface finish will be much better compared to printing in the other orientation. Moreover, the hole can also be printed in the XY plane leaving it cleaner as well.
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Tags: 3d-design, 3d-models
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thread-921 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/921 | Prusa XI3 not printing correctly with Repetier Host | 2016-04-02T05:40:12.457 | # Question
Title: Prusa XI3 not printing correctly with Repetier Host
I have a HE3D Prusa XI3 Specs are linked here. Its came with a MK8 Extruder, and I ordered the 0.3mm nozzle with it. I have Repetier v.91 loaded onto the printer right now, and Repetier-Host v1.5.4 on my computer. I have been able to print the test object that came on the SD with ok quality but when I switch to using the computer it just doesn't work at all. It starts up and heats the bed and extruder then zeros out the axis. After coming to temp which I set to 192c for the PLA plastic and bed temp of 60-65c it tries to print. Now comes my problem. It acts as if not enough plastic is being extruded. It doesn't even get the first layer down then when the second layer comes up I notice that there is plastic balling up at the end of the nozzle. So I decided that I should must with the settings in Repetier-Host to see what I could come up with. In printer settings I got everything set up besides the Max Volume Per Sec. How do I figure this number out? I also messed with the settings in slic3r to see if that helped but I didn't notice any difference. I am also using 1.75mm PLA If that might be needed.
# Answer
> 2 votes
In order to try a short answer even though you already found a change to Cura helped the issue. With that additional info we can conclude that your printer per se is working fine. To me, if the plastic is curling up to a ball, it seems that you are either having
* a wrong temperature set
* wrongly calculated e-steps, volume calculation (filament diameter) or multiplier in the firmware
* additional first layer parameters are off (height, offset, extrusion)
You can try to set the extrusion multiplier just to test if it is a simple miscalculation.
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Tags: software, prusa-i3, firmware, repetier, repetier-host
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thread-1286 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1286 | How to transport a 3D printer? Dismount needed? | 2016-06-09T06:56:11.857 | # Question
Title: How to transport a 3D printer? Dismount needed?
I need to transport my FDM 3D Printer because I am moving.
What are the precautions that one should take?
Should I dismount the motors and axes?
I would definitively unplug the electronics as far as reasonable and fix the motors to the frame so they don't slide during transport.
Should I have a housing to avoid dust and other mechanical issues?
# Answer
> 8 votes
Yes, fix the motors and any other loose/movable parts. Remove the bowden tube if it's there, and any other parts that are sticking out. Put the whole thing in a a bag to protect from dust, and put the bag in a box to protect it from getting beat up. Remember to calibrate it when you're ready to set it up again.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Transporting a 3D printer does not require special precautions.
Obviously you should package it to protect it from damage (but this depends on the mode of transportation and how sturdy your printer is; if you are just placing it in the back of your car with no chance of it bumping in to anything, no packaging is required at all).
It might be wise to secure the carriage(s) in place so they can't move around, but I would definitely not bother with unplugging anything (apart from the mains power, naturally). Leaving the motors plugged in means they will provide some holding torque, which might be advantageous to keep your axes from sliding around.
Dust is not too great of a concern, as 3D printers can handle it (to some degree) thanks to the seals included on linear bearings.
# Answer
> -2 votes
You just need to take basic security actions. like fixing all movable parts simple as that
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Tags: safety, mechanics
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thread-1328 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1328 | Pulling filament through long tubes | 2016-06-13T07:07:27.443 | # Question
Title: Pulling filament through long tubes
I'm setting up my printer in a small room, and I thought I'd come up with a system for more easily swapping filaments, but I'm not yet sure it is feasible.
Rather than physically replace the spool, I'd like to hang most of my spools on the wall, where they can rotate, and only swap filament leads in the (direct drive) extruder. The spools would be placed at some distance from the extruder, and at various angles. So to make sure the filament is pulled from the spool at the proper angle, and to avoid breaking it, I think it should probably run through a flexible tube to reach the printer.
I know such tubes are used for Bowden style extruders, but what I'm proposing is different in at least two ways: **\[1\]** the extruder motor would be *pulling* (not *pushing*) filament through the tube and **\[2\]** the tube would be longer than normal, e.g., between 1 and 2 meters.
Is this plan feasible? Or are the problems I am not foreseeing?
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**Edit 1:** I don't know where I got 1-2 meters from. The distance is actually closer to 50cm.
**Edit 2:** To clarify my proposed setup, here's a crude mockup:
# Answer
> 8 votes
I would say it's not the best approach.
In the situation you've described I would rather install some kind of vertical ring a bit above your printer. This ring would organize your filament going from any direction.
So let's assume you got one spool on the right and one on the left of your printer, both are 1m away from the printer itself. If you get filament and put throught the ring then to your extruder.
In my opinion the ring should be around 15..20cm over the printer, it should have around 10..15cm diameter and spools should not be too low.
The only issue I see is unwinding spools which are too far from the printer because then filament would be unwinded angular but the same issue would be with and without teflon tube.
**\[edit\]** Here is a simple change of your design
**\[edit2\]** Please also note that you can assure proper angle of unwinding filament by installing small rings ("eyes") next to spools. These eyes will direct filament out of spool and then filament will turn to your big ring mounted on the printer. This is common solution in textile industry
# Answer
> 5 votes
This is somewhat similar to a question I asked a while back. Pay attention to Ryan Carlyle's response in the question I posted. His post essentially explains various ways that guide tubes may hinder extrusion due to drag. In regards to the length of your guide tubes, ensure that the tube is relatively straight.
If you are holding the filament above the machine, chances are that you wont really need the tubes anyways and the distance between the spool and the extruder won't matter either. The point of tube is to ensure the filament doesn't bind coming from the back of the machine, thus potentially clogging your extruder.
**Update** Based on the OP's drawing, I think it would benefit to change the design to drop the tubes all together. The tubes can provide many point of contact and managing so many lines at once may become problematic. So, possibly drop the tubes and intend on not drawing your filament unless they are fed into the extruder. You could install smaller ends of tubes at either end of assembly (one at the storage rack, the other above the extruder) to ensure the filament is being fed/pulled straight. The space between the storage rack and the machine doesn't matter. Here's a basic edit of your design that might be easier to manage. For kicks, here's a design I made for my own machine as a "quick-change" design.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I would like to add to the already great discussion, that this general approach is prone to filament degradation by water intake. That is, if you are using filament for which this is an issue (PLA as the most prominent example).
Also, your goal is to exchange more quickly, that is without (un-)mounting whole spools each time. Basically you want to have a multi-filament spool holder, if I understand correctly. If you design an enclosed box with a single outlet you could incorporate silica gel inside and a reduced effort to swap the filament. I would still avoid a nice free-hanging spool solution due to the degradation issue.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Yes, this is feasible. You should constrain the tube at both ends, this prevents the spool from pulling up on the extruder. This approach is known as reverse bowden setup.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This shouldn't be too much of an issue, as long as:
1. You guide the filament properly to avoid breakage (at both ends as Tom mentions)
2. You avoid too much friction between the pulling extruder motor and the spool itself.
You mention that you consider using a 1-2 meter teflon tube to guide the filament. Although this *might* work, long teflon tubes will increase the friction from pulling the filament. Furthermore, I really doubt having such a long tube will be beneficial at all; quite on the contrary, I think it could be rather impractical. Most likely, having simple guides at both ends (whether its tube stubs or rings) will suffice.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Your idea is actually good, but i would add some edits to it. First of all, to keep your equipment clean, you would like to add little foam rubbers to clean the filament at the entrance of the tubes, to clean out the dust that will be accumulating over the rolls.
Another thing that i would recommend is to hang the tubes on a separate support for them and not on the extruder head, as it would add some additional friction to it and can cause the 3d model with additional friction making it distorted.
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Tags: filament, extruder, motor
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thread-22 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/22 | Is the weather a problem for MDF frames? | 2016-01-12T19:33:04.263 | # Question
Title: Is the weather a problem for MDF frames?
I've acquired all the parts to build a Reprap Prusa i3 rework, the only missing part is the frame.
I'm in doubt between a MDF cut (cheaper) or acrylic (more expensive), of course a cheaper one is my preferred option until I see any disadvantage on making it of wood.
I thought about variables like heat and humidity and the possibility of expansion/contraction of the frame, is this a valid concern? Will I have more precision buying the acrylic one or is it irrelevant?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Generally speaking, MDF will weather OK. In areas of high humidity you might experience warpage, but you can mitigate that by sealing the surface with paint or varnish. However you will probably find that of the two materials, acrylic will be more stable over a few years.
# Answer
> 6 votes
I want to add the following to the already direct and very good answer of @Dani Epstein. It does not answer your question, but hopefully may help many people who are reading the question when choosing between the two materials.
Acrylic is less stable and will probably wear off faster than a well-built MDF frame for a 3D printer! I will address the points separately.
1. An MDF frame has much(!) more mass than acrylic, which will reduce vibrations immediately. Almost more important, a box frame, as typical for the Prusa i3 for example, stabilizes itself intrinsically more by its 'redundant wall' design (don't beat me up over the wording here, I didn't find a better way to describe the property that results from the towers.)
Compare these two images taken from reprap wiki Prusa i3: You will probably not find an acrylic frame with this design. Shear stress as produced by the moving carriages, as well as z-wobble from the rods should theoretically be much less.
2. The acrylic might not wear by 'natural causes' since it is not a biologic material as wood is, but it will wear much faster due to handling the material, maintenance and human errors. The material is very brittle. You can find lots of reports on the web where the frame cracked or broke during setup. Here is my favorite example from someone with a lot of experience (1:20-2:30): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkkVk8c8XoU
3. Acrylic is a bad choice in terms of its mechanical properties: It is soft (I found low tensile strength as a number to compare in the given database), has lots of thermal expansion (5 times higher than stainless steel) and melts at 160 C (so beware of anything touching your hotend). Feel free to compare it to other materials here (no MDF or plywood in that database, though ;-) ): http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Polymethylmethacrylate.html
This altogether makes acrylic a very bad choice for a 3d printer frame material in my opinion. Choose MDF or plywood, you can make it look cool by painting it, too.
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Tags: reprap, prusa-i3-rework
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thread-214 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/214 | How do I keep my extruder head from getting clogged? | 2016-01-13T20:50:38.520 | # Question
Title: How do I keep my extruder head from getting clogged?
Using a thermoplastic MDF printer with a 0.4mm extruder nozzle, I frequently have trouble with the nozzle getting clogged.
I am not sure what's causing the clog, but my guesses are dust and/or burnt filament (from leaving the hot end on without extruding).
What can I do to prevent, or at least minimize, the extruder nozzle getting clogged?
Bonus question: What other common causes of clogs are there? (ie what should I watch out for besides dust and leaving the hot end on?)
# Answer
> 10 votes
Different types of hotends and extruders can lead to different problems associated with clogging. Based on my personal experience the leading causes of clogs and jams are the following
1. Foreign material in the nozzle (dirt, dust, low quality filament)
2. Mixing materials in the hotend (running ABS at 220 then switching to PLA without purging the nozzle)
3. Excessive retraction or "heat soak" in PLA (PLA expands when heated if your retraction is set to high you can actually push the expanded PLA high enough that it cools down and can no longer flow)
To solve these issues I recommend using one type of filament, preferably decent quality (typically $40 per kg), if you swap materials be sure to completely purge your nozzle of the higher temperature material. Set your retraction as low as you can trying to minimize ooze (try .4 mm for all metal hotend or 2-3 mm for makerbot style). To minimize carbonized plastic in your hotend don't leave your hotend's heater on for extended periods of time. One way to keep dust from accumulating on your filament is to cover your rolls when you aren't using them, I personally use hairnets, you can buy a 12 pack for a couple of dollars and they last for a long time.
# Answer
> 6 votes
Lubricating the filament is the most common solution I've heard of to stop filament jams and clogs. Lubricating makes for a smoother ride through the print head. While you're at it, make sure that the filament is clean. The best way to stop jams from dust is to get rid of the dust in the first place.
Some people recommend canola oil, which I've heard works reasonably well for both ABS and PLA (though especially for PLA). You can even 3D-print dust filters/lubricators, if you think this could be a serious issue.
I personally try to clean the print head regularly, after every couple prints or even after each print, if I have time. Something sharp, like tweezers, can pick off bits of filament near the tip of the nozzle. I haven't tried other utensils yet, but there are certainly other tools that would work. I've also heard of people regulating temperature with a fan, in order to prevent partially melted bits of filament clogging up the inside of the nozzle, but I don't know if that's effective.
In some cases, the problem could even be as mundane as a support issue. I once set up a spool of filament, only to have a jam when the support for the spool failed, leaving the line of filament tugging at the nozzle and clogging it. Taking steps to prevent this from happening can be simply and effective. Whatever the cause, preventative measures are always my choice.
# Answer
> 5 votes
As general advice, regardless of your printer, extruders tend to clog if: \[Some of them might not apply to every printer, but they should be as general as possible\]
1. you let the filament run out mid print, most extruders have a "dead zone" between the grinding wheel and the hot end, in which if the filaments stays stuck there, your only option is to open the extruder
2. you let a filament create knots with no one present to readily fix the knots, or the grinding wheel will saw the filament, leading to (1) plus a clogged grinding wheel: more often than not the quality of a filament brand is measured by the presence or absence of knots.
3. you let the hot head stay hot without printing for too long, it will fill of melted filament leading to risk of it carbonizing inside the extruder, leading one again to (1)
4. you use flex or rubber material which have the added complexity of grinding against the common plastic guides of the filaments feeders: depending on the material used, you might decide to avoid using the guides and feeding the extruder directly
5. you print at higher qualities (e.g. 0.1 mm) leads to lower filament throughput that can become stuck if the nozzle is too wide (and the grinding wheel goes too fast)
6. you never clean (i.e. blowing will suffice) the grinding wheel: filament dust sticks there increasingly over time.
7. you let the extruder is too close to the plate: if the filament is not free to fall on plate as it should (settings-wise) it will fill the hot end back up leading to clogs
8. you print wood, brick and derivate filaments: they are highly unhealthy for the extruder since they are plastic/resin charged with wood powder. The powder tends to a) burn and b) stick to the internal walls of the extruder.
If I can think of more I will add them.
# Answer
> 0 votes
First, you don't.
To reduce the likelyhood, use good plastics without contaminations.
Do not over heat the plastic, causes faster carbon build up.
Buy hand drills, mini drills to clear it.
Don't switch materials around a lot. Low temp plastic residue will cook when you switch to high temp plastic. Again carbon.
Last will come to your extruder is self. Use a hardened extruder tip, less likely to wear. All metal should help a lot too, PTEF tubes often get baked in a jam situation.
Or do what I do. I use a giant 1mm nozzle. I have printed at least 20 lbs of plastic on the same nozzle.
The other solutions say put oil etc.. I will just say that is not a great idea. First you will have terrible bed adhesion, second it just seems wrong. Not to mention it will be out of the extruder within one KG?. The only time its okay to use oil is if you have a bowden setup.
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Tags: extruder, fdm, maintenance, extrusion
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thread-1119 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1119 | Glue sticks for print bed | 2016-05-06T15:34:40.387 | # Question
Title: Glue sticks for print bed
I would like to get a green tombow PITS adhesive stick. On Rakuten, it costs \\$1 (USD). On my 3d printer's (XYZ) retailer's site, it costs \\$20 (USD). Due to the costs and the fact that Rakuten does not ship to my country, I need an alternative. I am currently using Davinci 1.0 for my bed, which I believe is a glass bed. So, my questions are:
1. What glue is best for PLA plastic?
2. What glue is best for ABS plastic?
3. Is there a glue that functions with both types of plastic?
# Answer
As mentioned by Matt - PVA glues work perfect for both filaments. It works well because it's softening temperature is between 45..85C so it's more or less temperature of HB.
Advantages:
* cheap
* easy to apply on HB
* can be applied on cold as same as on hot HB
* sticks model very well
* non toxic, no solvent, odorless
* easy to wash (from HB) (just wash it under water or scrape with sharp tool)
* works very well even with old and dry layer of glue
Disadvantages:
* quite hard to detach model (I use paper knife)
* first layer is not glass-perfect
* after detaching, model is a bit sticky (first layer)
I use Scotch Glue Stick by 3M.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I use glue Sticks from Staples. It works. Anything else is over thinking :-) I use it daily on PLA and ABS on 3 out of 5 printers. Printed 5 lbs this week in plastic so far.
Following my flashforge creator pros use this amazing mat, that even after months of use still work great (so long as I clean it with alcohol every so)
Some use hairspray. Tried it, mix results, got sick of breathing the stuff in. Also it wont work on both plastics as gluesticks do.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Most PVA glue works well for both (Poly Vinyl Acetate).
There are different brands in every country.
> 0 votes
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Tags: abs, pla, fdm, adhesion
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thread-1151 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1151 | FlashForge Creator Pro Tool Failure! Temp limit reached | 2016-05-11T22:38:09.423 | # Question
Title: FlashForge Creator Pro Tool Failure! Temp limit reached
After printing successfully for a while I received an error saying:
Tool 0 Failure!
Temp limit reached
Shutdown or restart.
The front panel is not responsive and doesn't allow the printer to print at all. If I quickly go to monitor mode it shows tool 0 temperature in the ~700°C range; which made me think it was the thermocouple.On the motherboard I unplugged the thermocouple and the same error occurred, I then swapped the other thermocouple and put it in its place and got the same error except the tool 1 temperature showed "NC".
I had recently taken apart the extruders to change out the nozzles and thought I had possibly smashed the wires when putting it together but now I don't think that's the case.
I'm on the phone with FlashForge's tech support but wanted to see if someone else has had the same experience for cross reference.
What's the underlying issue? Is there a quick solution to this that can get me printing right away (I'm under a deadline)? What's the end solution?
# Answer
It sounds like a failed TC amp chip. But we need to rule out some other stuff.
Some important facts about the Creator Pro temp sensor:
* If you smash and short the two thermocouple wires together, the printer will simply read room temp.
* If you cut or disconnect the thermocouple wires, the printer will report NC for "not connected."
* The thermocouple lookup table in the firmware only goes up to 300C.
Seeing a number over 300C means either a bad thermocouple amp chip, or excess voltage on the TC wires due to a short to something else in the hot block. (However, such a short will usually fry the entire controller board to smithereens.)
To rule out stray voltage entering the TC wires, completely detach both thermocouples from the hot blocks and lay them out not touching anything metal. Do you still get an unusually high reading on tool 0?
To rule out an issue with the specific thermocouple, swap thermocouples between tool 0 and tool 1 and see if the problem moves with the TCs.
If the TC is not touching anything, and the problem stays with the tool when you swap wires, and you STILL get \>300C reads, the thermocouple amp chip has failed. It is possible to replace the chip if you have (or your friend has) a hot air rework station and some experience soldering. Or you can get a new mainboard from FlashForge.
The next question is why this problem happened. You don't want to fix the symptoms with new parts but have an underlying issue cause the same failure to re-occur after you swap out parts. With the printer on but the heaters off, use a multimeter to check for voltage between the hot block and the printer's ground. Certain types of heater cartridge failure can short the hot block to +24v. This is highly dangerous and needs to be fixed before you continue using the printer. So make sure you check it before trying to repair anything else.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Oh yeah my printer had that. Specifically 2 Flash Forge Creator Pros, Replace the thermal couple. Done. Really fragile thermal couples they use.
Edit I see you tried shorting the TC. Wouldn't shorting the TC, produce the same error?
> 0 votes
---
Tags: electronics, heat-management
--- |
thread-1359 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1359 | CubePro 3D Printer | 2016-06-16T20:03:39.133 | # Question
Title: CubePro 3D Printer
How to check leveling of printer bed ? What should be ideal values on x,y and z to ensure printer bed is flat and there is no angle between plane of nozzle and plane of printer bed ?
# Answer
The CubePro printer appears to have a comprehensive leveling system built into the menu. The direct instructions for this process can be found here: CubePro Calibration
I would suggest that "ideal values" are those created by the calibration process that confirms the necessary settings for a good print.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: calibration
--- |
thread-1357 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1357 | What is the biggest size of an object that iBox Nano can print? | 2016-06-16T19:58:12.030 | # Question
Title: What is the biggest size of an object that iBox Nano can print?
Since iBox Nano is the smallest public-production-available 3d Resin printer (and the cheapest so far), I assume it has a huge size limitation. So far I've only seen pictures of its outputs that are miniature things. I've never tried it nor have I seen it in action in person so I'd like to be sure.
**For example**, my 3D models are of the size of beads to figurines to a standard sized pencil cup holder.
**I want to know in inches or millimeters the dimension (width, length, height) of the biggest possible object the iBox Nano can print.**
# Answer
On their website, I found the following picture, which states a build area of 40 mm x 20 mm x 90 mm (1.57" x 0,79" x 3.54").
> 2 votes
# Answer
From their website I found a comparison between 300 microns down to 50 microns print quality. My answer would be somewhere around this range.
> -1 votes
---
Tags: ibox-nano
--- |
thread-1316 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1316 | M3D filament not extruding well (anymore) | 2016-06-12T01:30:25.640 | # Question
Title: M3D filament not extruding well (anymore)
I use OctoPrint on an Ubuntu system with a M3D printer.
Midway through a recent print, the filament just stopped extruding although the motor-functions of the printer were proceeding fine. Since then, every print I attempt has trouble extruding proper amounts of filament. It's always not enough. The output is stringy and not cohesive.
I'm thinking there may simply be a clog in the extruder and wondering the safest way to remove it.
The weird thing, though, is that when I use manual control and extrude at, say, 220C, the filament comes out fine.
You can see the raft definitely isn't printing right. Way too little output:
# Answer
> 2 votes
Suggested remedies for 3-D printers which are not extruding required amount of filament:
1. First, check the temperature of the extruder. Try 220-225C to see if that improves the problem.
2. The second step is to increase the flow of the filament (increase mm/sec) for extruder speed.
3. A final step is to increase distance between extruder and base-plate. If the extruder is too close to the baseplate, there may not be enough space for the filament to begin the printing process.
Another possible source of lack of material extrusion is a clogged extruder. To solve this problem:
1. Retract filament using jog control in software
2. Heat extruder 20-30 degrees Celsius above normal extrusion temperature
3. Disassemble Extruder, use small thin wire to remove blockage (guitar wire as suggested below)
# Answer
> 2 votes
You might have a case of clogged nozzle. You can check this easily by lifting the Z axis and running the extrusion motor. If it's grinding on filament or you notice extruded plastic is curling or going out slow, it's probably partial or total clog.
I have had the latter variant happen to myself recently, with the same symptoms as yours. Fixing it involved disassembly of the hotend and cleaning the clog manually using jet lighter (to heat up the nozzle) and guitar string to pull out clogged PLA.
You might have some other options available:
1. Try pushing the filament through hotend by hand, it might clear the clog.
2. Other variant I've heard of is heating up the extruder to 130-150°C (PLA) and just yanking out the filament, and hopefully clog along with it. I wouldn't recommend this if you don't know what you're doing, as it might damage the printer.
In my case things that were causing the clog were the big retraction distance and temperature being set too high.
---
Tags: filament, extruder, octoprint
--- |
thread-1361 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1361 | Differences between moving build plate vs. extruder | 2016-06-17T00:00:34.130 | # Question
Title: Differences between moving build plate vs. extruder
What are the differences, and pros & cons, between 3D printers with varying layouts for moving head vs. moving build plate?
Example layouts would include:
* X Head; YZ Bed;
* XY Head; Z Bed;
* XYZ Head;
* etc.
In particular, what are their respective strengths, weaknesses, specializations, maintenance considerations, etc.?
# Answer
> 14 votes
Without going into too much detail, since this is a very exhaustive topic, I'll write some pro's of each down from the top of my head:
Cartesian XZ hotend, Y bed (eg. Prusa Mendel):
* easy to build (relatively)
* easy to maintain
* easy to modify
* understandable kinematics
* with the right frame, no x-y-z orthogonality (90 degree angles) needs to be adjusted
* affordable
* bad for timelapse recordings
* print quality will theoretically always be inferior at the same speeds and accelerations to kinematics that have less mass to move (heavy printbeds will lead to ghosting)
* z-wobble is only existent in this approach
* big build-plates are no option for this design (last feasible size might be 20x30 cm)
Cartesian XY hotend, Z bed (core-XY, sparkcube, Ultimaker, Makerbot)
* less mass to be moved -\> faster print speeds possible
* almost no size limitaions
* construction is easy to enclose in most models due to the cubic frame
* looks almost always professional
* enclosure can be hard to modify due to constraints in space
XYZ hotend (Delta bots)
* master of circles
* less mass to be moved -\> faster print speeds possible
* impressive to watch
* more load on the processing unit due to more complicated kinematics (32 bit needed for fast print speeds and responsive control with display)
* kinematics not easily understandable
* error-cause search can be very complicated
* more accurate in the center than on the outer limits due to the kinematic approach
The list is for sure not complete, and as a major disclaimer: print quality will always, with every approach, depend more on the setup and calibration of the printer than on the model. There are people around that produce great prints from an acrylic frame cartesian printer and lots of people that produce mediocre results with expensive printers in fancy designs.
I will add some links to the list items when I find the time, for now you have to believe me. I am highly appreciating corrections and additions!
# Answer
> 3 votes
I think this is simple, breaking it into simple parts... It is much easier to calibrate a machine where each axis does one thing. For instance, the Ultimaker; one of the few XY-on-the-same-axis printers... It has such a crazy complicated pulley system. If one thing gets out of whack, everything will start binding. Thankfully this doesn't happen as they did a good job, but it comes at a price. All the double pulleys and double rods - that costs money.
However if you break it into smaller bits then less will go wrong.
When I upgraded my MendelMax 1.5 to use a PBC linear solid slide for the X axis, it instantly solved all my issues with the rods binding (two rods into one big slide).
To quote my coworker,
> It's like balancing a stool. Is it easier to balance a 4 legged stool or a 3?
Following from that, there is probably a good hour's worth of mechanical engineering information that can be said in regards to the linear motion itself. I would rather calibrate one axis at at time, and not worry about weird behavior caused by a XYZ head.
---
Tags: print-quality, mechanics, build-plate
--- |
thread-1362 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1362 | Extruder is running backwards? | 2016-06-17T07:13:19.360 | # Question
Title: Extruder is running backwards?
I have a (HIC) version of the Prusa i3. I have recently installed the E3D v6 hotend and titan extruder. After fixing some other issues, I noticed that there is no filament being extruded. In addition, the gear looked like it was going in the wrong direction. How can I fix this?
# Answer
You can either flip the connector for the motor around (i.e. plug it in backwards) or (if you are using Marlin firmware) look for the following line in configuration.h: (using the Arduino editor open the Marlin file For your 3D Printer, one of the tabs is labelled "configuration.h" click on that tab to bring it to the front for editing. use the Edit, Find and put E0 in the find box, click find. When you find the line below
```
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false
```
change `false` to `true` (or vice-versa). Note that if you go for the connector-flipping route, make sure that you only do this when the printer is turned off.
> 11 votes
# Answer
Reverse the plug for the motor on the board. Or do firmware. Doesn't matter. \*** assuming you have ramps and a standard stepper..
> 0 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, extruder, e3d-v6, e3d-titan
--- |
thread-1215 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1215 | Slic3r under extrusion | 2016-05-22T21:08:56.350 | # Question
Title: Slic3r under extrusion
For last two weeks I have been struggling with flow rate adjustments. I'm using an UM2, colorFabb XT 1.75mm and Slic3r. Before printing a test cube I made flow rate adjustments using the "Perimeter test" (printed a hallow cube with 1 layer thin perimeter line). I then compared the desired value of the perimeter's width with the value from the g-code and adjusted the flow rate. I repeated this procedure until I got exactly the thickness I needed. After that, I printed a 15x15x15 mm cube and observed under extrusion on top layer. Also, the dimensions of the cube in the x-y plane were smaller than expected (0.4mm shorter than they should be). I have done this a few times now, and still get the same result. :/ Furthermore, I was unable to adjust width by dividing the desired value of the width of the perimeter by a real value, I got slightly smaller extrusion multiplier (One I got by division is 0.9 , but 9.5 relates to desired width). Do you have some suggestion guys?
Update:
I'll try to explain the calibration method I have used.
1. I have made in Solidwork 15x15x15 mm cube.
2. The cube was imported into Slic3r, where I have set the infill to 0% and number of sides shells equal to 1 and number of top and bottom shells equal to 0 (It gave me one layer thin wall in shape of cube).
3. I printed it out and measured the width using caliper and compared with the perimeter's width from g-code.
4. I have got something about 0.7, but the extrusion width in g-code is 0.65, so I changed extrusion multiplier by 0.65/0.7 = 0.93 (what is not actually true, because I got correct value on 0.95 only)
5. I have repeated the procedure for many times, and always got wrong dimensions and under extrusion. There is the video about method I just have explained: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA
# Answer
> 2 votes
It looks like you overtune it. I think it's because top layer of hollow object doesn't have any support (which is obvious) but because of that the filament is not oblate that's why it looks like underextruded.
If you really need hollow object then set number of top layers to 3..5 then check if it helps. I know it's not really what you expect but IMO this could help here. (I usually set 2 bottom layers and 3 top and it's quite enought.) You can also experiment with speed of top leyer. I would say the faster the better in this issue as the the first top layer should be as flat as possible then next top layer will have better support. And of course cooling should be set to max (as for the bridges).
Here is an explanation why you get underextrusion.
A is wall (perimeter) B is (ceiling) top layer.
Empty outlines are what you expect but filled shapes are what you really get. Differences are of course slightly smaller but it's to clearly explain the issue
Please also check Printer Settings \> Advanced \> Top solid infill.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I've had that issue on my 3D printing shop.
That kind of problem usually happens when the extruder driving gear gets worn out. This makes the extruder loose it's grip on the filament and diminishes the flow of the extrusion, resulting on the prints you show on your photo.
Depending on the time you have with your printer and the use you give it the gear will get worn out between 8 to 12 months and you will have to change it to avoid the flow issues.
I recommend you to open the extruder and check if the driving gear is worn so that you can order a new one.
---
Tags: extrusion, calibration, slic3r, colorfabb-xt
--- |
thread-1379 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1379 | What are some cheaper versions of Multi Jet 3D printing? | 2016-06-18T04:11:16.817 | # Question
Title: What are some cheaper versions of Multi Jet 3D printing?
I noticed 3Dsystems has Multi Jet 3D printing where wax is used provide support and give users with high resolution 3D printed objects. I was wondering if there were cheaper and smaller Multi Jet 3D printing?
Can Form 1+ from FormLabs be considered to do the same job with resin?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Objet by Stratasys is a comparable technology (they call it PolyJet). SolidScape is also somewhat comparable (they also use jetting).
The FormLabs printers are not comparable. They use a completely different process, which can only print in one material. With jetting, you can mix different materials in the same part.
---
Tags: desktop-printer
--- |
thread-1371 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1371 | Why is my print getting messed up mid-print? | 2016-06-17T19:28:37.910 | # Question
Title: Why is my print getting messed up mid-print?
I am using Slic3r to generate the GCode for my Marlin-based printer. For some reason with increasing height my print starts to get messed up. On another part it starts to act like this when there are small parts. Is this related to my Slic3r settings, maybe to much filament being extruded or is this due to something else?
Any help is highly appreciated and I can provide more pictures of messed up parts or slic3r config if necessary.
# Answer
To me, this looks like a combination of bad filament, high temperature and/or fast speeds.
* Too high extrusion temperature will make difficult to let each layer cool enough before the next layer begins. This is why you see the poor results on the smaller areas of the print in your second photo.
* If you're using bad filament (out of round, non-virgin, or poorly stored filament) you might see a series of over/under extrusion areas or smoke from moisture in the filament.
* Slowing down your feed rates can be tricky if your extrusion temps are too high. By slowing down, you're allowing layers to cool down a little bit more and solidify. If your previous layers are still relatively molten, you'll notice that the new layer of filament will adhere to it and potentially drag the previous layers as the nozzle continues to move. You'll see the results of this in the top-arc layers with an uneven curvature.
> 0 votes
# Answer
For me, this looks like a cooling problem. Try to print this part 2-4 times in one print and get sure your fan is cooling all the time.
It is a known problem, if the layers get smaller, that they do not have time to cool down. So you're printing on a wobbling bunch of still soft layers, which result in what you showed on the photo.
In my opinion, this has nothing to do with the filamen.
> 1 votes
# Answer
This can happen if your filament is having to be pulled off the spool and slipping in the extruder. Check if slippage is happening at the extruder, perhaps see if results change by providing some hand powered help. I have seen this with some glossy PLA I have used.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament, pla, print-quality, slic3r, marlin
--- |
thread-1372 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1372 | HE3D Prusa Z-Axis Motor Error | 2016-06-17T20:06:55.133 | # Question
Title: HE3D Prusa Z-Axis Motor Error
I have an HE3D Prusa XI3 that I have assembled but the z axis motors aren't functioning properly, they will whine instead of turn. They will turn if I use Z babystepping or position changes but will not when doing a fast position changes or in normal use
# Answer
You are probably driving the motors with insufficient current. Try increasing the motor current, by adjusting the potentiometer on the respective stepper driver. Turn it clockwise until your motors stop skipping steps.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3
--- |
thread-1355 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1355 | Can toothbrush bristles be printed? | 2016-06-16T16:00:37.283 | # Question
Title: Can toothbrush bristles be printed?
Is it possible to print toothbrush bristles using a common FDM 3D printer? I am particularly interested in the width of bristles, closeness together of each bristle, and the flexibility of each particular bristle.
# Answer
> 6 votes
Actually last year a group did use a normal FDM printer to 3d print hair, brushed, etc. See the press release from Carnegie Mellon University
https://www.engadget.com/2015/10/29/3d-printing-hair-is-as-easy-as-using-a-hot-glue-gun/
http://technabob.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/3d\_printed\_hair\_by\_Gierad\_Laput\_Xiang\_Chen\_Chris\_Harrison\_1.jpg
That said as far as I know you will not have access to this process, and is probably under a mountain of patents and other innovation killers.
Now how to do this outside of fancy software.
For a FDM printer the smallest nozzle I ever got was 0.1mm, it jammed instantly. One could print rows at this precision.
Now we have to move to something more advanced, such as DLP. Not the materials you want, but closer to the size you want. a formlabs can print at 25 microns. Which as a hair is 17 microns, you are "close enough" .. but a resin would be brittle and break. They do have other materials such as flexibles, but I am not familiar with them enough.
Also just going to mention. Tiny slivers of plastic is more likely to cut you than comb you.
# Answer
> 3 votes
At this point, an FDM printer probably wouldn't produce good results if you intend on printing the same design as current toothbrushes.
Each strand is about 0.007" in diameter which is slightly larger than the typical minimum diameter that can possibly be extruded. This doesn't leave much room to provide a well enough surface between layers.
With features this small you might run into issues with resolution and accuracy of the machine. The resolution may determine how well the strands are printed separately. The accuracy may determine how well each layer print over each other. If your machines accuracy is about 0.0005", then expect your layers to have run-out of about 0.0005"-0.001" on a 0.007" size feature. I'm also not accounting for how well the machine is maintained/tuned, which could detriment both resolution and accuracy.
So, it's possible on an FDM, but not probable at this time.
To help your odds:
* Slow your feed rate way down (maybe 30-40mm/s)
* Watch over and under extrusion. It will be more evident on smaller features like this. It either will look like a big blob or pretty much nothing. You should have settings in your slicer to help compensate.
* Clean your extruder and drive gear and tune the tension on filament in the extruder assembly.
* Use quality filament! If the filament is out of round, then over/under extrusion will occur.
* Be mindful of any health organization requirements on the type of materials you're allowed to use for something that goes in your mouth. The same logic goes for ensuring you don't print the bristles in something that can mold. I believe nylon is safe, at least in the US, but don't quote me on this.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have had a go at doing something for a christmass tree using a drop loop technique. You could use the same method or somthing similar to try and create something that looks like toothbrush bristles, but I don't think you would want to try cleaning your teeth with it.
---
Tags: filament, 3d-models, fdm
--- |
thread-1244 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1244 | Raft hard to remove? | 2016-05-31T20:03:01.093 | # Question
Title: Raft hard to remove?
I've been having a hard time lately getting the raft off of my ABS prints.
Is that a symptom of either a nozzle or bed that are too hot? Or is there some other factor I should be looking in to?
I have an UP mini that I've modified both the nozzle and bed to customize the temperatures on.
Bed gets heated to 100˚C and nozzle is either 266˚C for UP ABS filament or 236˚C for off-brand ABS filament.
# Answer
A couple things to consider:
* Ensure that your build plate is flat and level. An un-parallel HBP could result in the object "welding" to the raft.
* Turn down your nozzle temperature. It is likely that the material is hotter than it needs as it is extruding. This results in a slower "cool-down rate". So, if it takes longer for the filament to cool between the raft and the first layers of the object. Therefore, cooling together in a manner that somewhat binds them.
* Personally, 266C seems VERY high to me. I've primarily only used ABS on my MakerBot and have successfully printed with 225C +-5C nozzle temperature and 110C +-2C HBP temperature.
* Typically you want to extrude slightly above the melting point. You don't want to liquefy the material, but make it pliable enough to bond it to other layers of material (or a BP).
> 7 votes
# Answer
You could try reducing the temperature of the hotend. If you are using too high of a temperature, the ABS will "run" and over-adhere to the raft.
What slicer are you using? I have found that raft quality is drastically affected by the slicer I've used. In my experience, MakerBot and Simplify3D produce the nicest, easiest to remove rafts. I've also had success with Cura.
Barring changing the temperature of your hotend or switching to a new slicer, you could always try printing without the raft. From the sound of it, your bed is hot enough. Do you have Kapton on the bed? If so, give printing without a raft a shot. If sticking is an issue, try painting a slurry of ABS and Acetone onto the bed before starting.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Do you allow the filament to cool completely (5-10 minutes or longer after printing) before you begin to remove the rafter, or do you remove the printed piece immediately after finished printing and begin to remove the rafter?
In my experience, I have noticed that the rafter is easier to remove if the piece is still somewhat warm from the heated bed.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I haven't got a printer with a heated bed so have only tested this on PLA but I have found editing the G code so the printer cools the nozzle down and then heats it up again gives the raft enough time to cool down so that it peels off easier when the print is finished.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: abs, fdm, rafts, fff
--- |
thread-1309 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1309 | How to build CuraEngine? | 2016-06-10T18:35:07.770 | # Question
Title: How to build CuraEngine?
I've been trying to build CuraEngine on Ubuntu following the Github instructions.
The problem is that it lists some requirements:
* Clone the CuraEngine repository;
* Install Protobuf (see below);
* Install libArcus.
I'm not sure where should I install Protobuf and libArcus. After several tries and locations I've received several errors during the build process.
Does anyone have a more detailed guide on how to build this engine?
# Answer
I'm assuming you actually want to *build* Cura, rather than simply install Cura. If you instead want to install Cura, you can try `sudo apt-get install cura-engine`
*The following instructions were tested on my own Debian 8 (Jessie) distribution; they should be mostly, if not entirely, the same, for Ubuntu. Note that I **did not follow the exact steps** as described on the github/Ultimaker/CuraEngine README.*
Before we begin, let's make a build directory and do everything in there.
```
mkdir ~/Downloads/curabuild
cd ~/Downloads/curabuild
```
The instructions will be broken into
# 1. Install dependencies
Some or all of these may already be installed on your computer. To be sure, we install them anyways:
```
sudo apt-get install git curl libtool dh-autoreconf cmake python3-setuptools python3-dev python3-sip sip-dev
```
# 2. Install protobuf
1. Clone and enter the protobuf git repository:
```
git clone https://github.com/google/protobuf
cd protobuf
```
2. Build and install for C++:
```
./autogen.sh
./configure
make # this will take some time
sudo make install
```
3. Install for Python 3:
```
cd python
sudo python3 setup.py install
```
# 3. Install libArcus
1. Clone and enter the libArcus repository:
```
cd ../..
git clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/libArcus
cd libArcus
```
2. Build and install
```
cmake .
make
sudo make install
```
# 4. Install CuraEngine
1. Clone and enter repository:
```
cd ..
git clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine
cd CuraEngine
```
2. Build and install
```
cmake .
make # grab a cup of coffee
sudo make install
```
# 5. Celebrate!
If all went well, you're done! You can now use the Cura engine via `CuraEngine`. Enjoy.
> 10 votes
---
Tags: software, slicing, ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-1373 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1373 | Good methods to clean extruder gear (hobbed) from filament pieces? | 2016-06-17T21:47:42.837 | # Question
Title: Good methods to clean extruder gear (hobbed) from filament pieces?
I'm using a CraftBot original to print PLA, but some of the filament has become stuck in the teeth of the extruder gear on its way into the hot end. I'm having issues with the gear becoming stuck and "clicking" instead of turning, and I suspect it is because of the clogged teeth. I haven't changed materials in a long time. I've cleared several print head clogs, but each time the gear gets back around to the one spot, it seems to get stuck again.
Are there any good ways to clean this gear? I was thinking of putting it in a toaster oven and trying to melt the PLA off it, ideally without setting my house on fire in the process. Anyone have better ideas?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I mostly use a tooth brush for that kind of problem
# Answer
> 2 votes
If your gear skips at the same place each time I have found on my machine that the gear does not fit the motor shaft properly and has a larger gap between the gear and the idler roller.
Check to see if there is a thicker buildup on one side of the gear than the other.
On my machine what I had to do was to use a spare motor cable and watch the gear as it turned, and at one point on the gear it would slip and shave off a small amount of filament.
If that turns out to be your problem use a good caliper to measure your motor shaft, and the inner diameter of the gear.
Sometimes the minimum shaft diameter and the maximum bore diameter of the gear are just enough to allow that small variance in the outer rotation diameter of the gear.
Sometimes just replacing the gear will solve the problem, and sometimes it will require a new motor and/or gear.
As an alternative you can clean the gear using Acetone and a toothbrush, but that will be required often and you will have buildup in the chamber below the gear which can also cause feed problems, and you must make sure that all Acetone has dried before using the extruder again.
I suggest starting with changing gears since they are the cheapest and using the Caliper to find the closet fit possible.
You can get gears on e-bay at very reasonable prices. and I bought several to get the best fit possible.
Good luck and consider if you want to make a more permanent repair or temporary repair when making your choice. I chose the more permanent one because the slippage was affecting some of my prints.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you are able to remove the gear, as I suspect you can, a useful tool is the file card. It resembles a flat hair brush but the bristles are short wire, very stiff. In traditional use, it removes metal shavings from conventional metal files. It will easily remove plastic from between the gear teeth. If you are unable to remove the gear, but can access a portion of the exposed teeth, a suitably named dental pick can remove slowly the clogged material.
Cooking the gear may not cause a fire, but could carbonize the plastic onto the teeth, perhaps creating a greater problem.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I use an air bulb to clean dust out of teeth, but the clicking sounds like the stepper has too much mechanical load so i am guessing there is something solid stuck at that point. Poke it off with something sharp.
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Tags: filament, extruder, drive-gear
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thread-1389 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1389 | How much work would be converting Prusa firmware/software for CNC use? | 2016-06-19T18:21:47.690 | # Question
Title: How much work would be converting Prusa firmware/software for CNC use?
I have an option to purchase a hobby multi-purpose device (lathe/mill/drill/grinder/cutter) which is manually controlled, but easily converted for driving by stepper motors (all 3 axis are controlled by turning knobs that can be replaced by gears, with convenient mount to couple each to a stepper motor). I have the right motors and can easily obtain drivers for them.
That is the way to overcome the worst problem of converting Prusa to CNC: the flimsy mechanics not able to withstand stress and vibrations of machining. Then I can connect the drivers to the 3 axis of Prusa's electronics, optionally connect some driver of the spindle to the extruder output (or just control it manually), and it seems the hardware side of the device is done.
The problem is the rest - adapting the software. RepRap family of 3D printers being open source means their software and hardware *can* be adapted. It's only a matter of *how hard* it is.
Does anyone have any experience in that direction? What would such conversion involve? Just recalibration to the new gear/leadscrew ratios, or something more involved, like editing the sources to get rid of all the temperature safeguards and the likes?
# Answer
None, if I choose the right control board.
The Smoothieboard supports CNC "out of the box"; it requires initial configuration, which, while somewhat different, is actually easier than for a 3D printer. Boards supporting Grbl or Teacup will be compatible for XYZ too, but may require some tinkering if you want to control the spindle.
You can use the same CAD software, but the set of CAM tools will need to be considerably different.
> 0 votes
# Answer
## Disclaimer
Questions about other machines is still in kind of a grey area right now <sup>06/2016</sup> and your question is, in my opinion, a bit too broad. However, I think it's a great topic to perhaps help direct the scope of this community.
## The lowdown
1. 3D printers, CNC Mills, CNC Lathes, CNC Routers, and Lasers are all very different! There are certainly areas where each of these may overlap, but the methodology is very different overall.
2. Software is not always interchangeable across machines (even within the same machine type) due to hardware requirements/communication.
3. Hardware is not always interchangeable across machines (even within the same machine type) due to design/scope of the purpose of the machine.
## Things to consider
<sub>(In a nut-shell)</sub>
**3D Printers**
*Hardware*
* Minimal speed/torque requirements compared to subtractive machine tools.
* Good designs focus on temperature control via enclosures and/or electronics.
* (Typically) uses heat block/nozzle/stepper motor to control material size/flow.
*Software*
* Emphasis on "plug-n-play" UI/UX
* Conceptually easier to generate tool paths. STL's provide outlines and software fills in the blanks like a coloring book.
* Focus is on understanding material properties and temperature variability.
*Common Variability*
* Material quality/shape
* Environment temperature
**CNC Mills/Routers/Lathes**
*Hardware*
* Maximum speed/torque requirements.
* Good designs focus on rigid designs and handling harmonics.
* Tighter tolerance components to ensure mechanical repeatability.
* Relies on cutting tool size/shape to control material size/flow.
*Software*
* Requires more manual input (typically) to account for where its tool is located. The mathematics heavily depend on accurate dimensions for the cutting tools, otherwise you could damage your part or the machine.
* Good software allows many different "canned" tool paths for efficiency, tool types, and achieving desired surface finish.
* Focus is on variability in cutting tool and speeds/feeds (as recommended by cutting tool suppliers for materials)
*Common Variability*
* Material shape/hardness
* Cutting tool shape/hardness
* Cutting tool path
**Lasers**
*Hardware*
* Minimal speed/torque requirements.
* Good designs focus on consistent beam quality and spot focus, which is relative to constant power.
* Uses focusing lens (sets spot size) to control material size.
*Software*
* Emphasis on "plug-n-play" UI/UX and interoperability.
* Dimensions are easier to achieve as less variability in the process compared to 3D printing/machining.
* Focus is on laser power (typically for material type and depth).
*Common Variability*
* Laser type
* Spot size
* Power supply
## Summary
Overall there are many, very different variables to consider between these technologies. I only focused on variables you might see out of a hobbyist-style machine and if you've operated any of these you'll know that there are many more variables that pop up for any of these machines.
So, do not expect such a plug-n-play solution as each machine requires quality construction of its ***hardware***, the ability to handle the variability of the process in its ***software***, and, above all, an ***operator*** that understands the correlation and balance of these components.
All of that being said, there are some machines that seem to be tailored to this such as the machine by Diyouware and ZMorph <sub>(No affiliation, just examples)</sub>. However, notice that they have created their own software to meet a lot of these communication requirements.
**Update** I forgot to mention the fact that a kink in creating a interchangeable machine is the control interface. The controller converts the "software speak" into an easily parsed series of functions (typically G-Code) for the small computer to process its predetermined hardware processes. Ie, The slicer or CAM software determines that a layer of a circle be 3D printed, milled, routered, or lasered, so the controller should **G02I2** which could parse to <sub>(For all intents and purposes in javascript, not a practical language)</sub> `CWCircularInterpolation(2,null,null,null,null,null)` and run as:
```
function CWCircularInterpolation(i,j,k,x,y,z){
//Some code to take current position and command to create a canned circle path
}
```
The point is that the software needs to handle the conditions and constraints of a different machining process and provide a well-equipped machine with the right commands. There are a lot of *different* things to consider in attempting to combine these machining techniques into a single machine and get quality results.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I haven't done this myself. But the temperature safeguards only apply to the 4th, the E axis for the filament. So configuring the right steps per mm would get you started.
The question is more what do you want to do with it and where do you get the G-Code to do that. You can not use a slicer to generate the G-Code for you.
But there is software for PCB Milling out there that should work with the configured Firmware.
> 0 votes
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Tags: electronics, mechanics
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thread-1395 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1395 | Tinkerine 3D Printer | 2016-06-20T20:13:11.347 | # Question
Title: Tinkerine 3D Printer
I am trying to print model for Prosthetic Hand (File Here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:596966) using Tinkerine 3D Printer. It went smooth for first hour and after that it started messing up(attached image). I checked the leveling of plate and it was fine. Also, the nozzle didn't get clogged anywhere. Can anyone suggest, what could be the reason for this or what should be inspected in order to overcome this?
**Expected Result**
**Actual Result**
# Answer
> 1 votes
The issue occurring here is similar to a question asked over here. It looks as though this is a result of a hardware fault related to the stepper drivers. @DarthPixel recommended placing heatsinks on the stepper driver(s) and/or properly placed fans.
Depending on the design of your machine, some stepper drivers are going to be worked harder than others. For example, a MakerBot Replicator will work the X-Axis stepper driver more than the Z-Axis stepper driver. Therefore, you have a higher chance of overheating your X-Axis stepper driver.<sub>(Images are of A4988 Stepper Driver, not directly compatible with MakerBot Replicator)</sub>
Alternatively, I personally have seen the issue repeated by manually triggering one of the limit switches. The effects seemed to take effect on the next layer.
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Tags: print-quality, slicing, g-code
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thread-1410 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1410 | How does the sizes of nozzle diameter and the Z-axis layer resolution work? | 2016-06-23T04:24:21.237 | # Question
Title: How does the sizes of nozzle diameter and the Z-axis layer resolution work?
I have a 3D Printer with 0.4 mm (400 micron) nozzle length and the printer guide suggests that it can print up to a layer thickness of 60 micron and has a accuracy up to 100 micron.
What I'm trying to understand is that, how does the 0.4 mm nozzle output a filament size lesser than it? How does that process work? Does it reduce the speed at which the filament flows or something?
# Answer
> 21 votes
Yes, they do reduce the speed. Basically, the speed at which you feed filament determines how large of a volume comes out, and the distance you move the extruder means this volume gets distributed over this distance. However, this is not the whole story.
The size of your nozzle determines only two things: the *maximum* layer height and the *minimum* feature size. It does not affect minimum layer height (and obviously doesn't affect maximum feature size) although there are some practical constraints (you wouldn't want to print 0.1 mm layers with a 5 mm nozzle).
The nozzle squishes the filament down as it is extruded; the filament is basically forced into the gap between the nozzle and the previous layer. There's no limit to how thin of a layer you can print (the 60 micron figure is just something the marketing department made up, you can likely print even thinner layers). So long as you can position your Z-axis with sufficient accuracy (which is usually no problem) you can print arbitrarily thin layers.
On the other hand, the nozzle size does determine the maximum layer height. Your need the filament to be squished a bit, or else it won't stick to the previous layer properly. You can't print layers thicker than your nozzle size, and it is generally recommended to print with a layer size that is at most 80 % of your nozzle size (e.g. with a 0.4 mm nozzle you shouldn't attempt to print layers thicker than 0.32 mm) but this is just a guideline.
Your extrusion width is the width of the line deposited by your nozzle. This is generally (due to the mentioned squishing) a bit larger than your nozzle size. With a 0.4 mm nozzle you should set your extrusion width to something slightly larger, like 0.5 mm. It is technically possible to print with an extrusion width that is the same as (or even smaller) than your nozzle size, but this results in very weak prints: as mentioned before, you want the plastic to get squished slightly.
They claim an accuracy up to 100 micron. This doesn't mean that you can print features as small as 100 micron (since you can't, due to the extrusion width being much larger). What this means, is for example, that if you print a 10 mm cube, you should expect its real size to be between 9.9 mm and 10.1 mm. Such a cube does not have any features that are smaller than your minimum feature size, but its outer walls can be positioned with greater precision than this minimum feature size.
I should caution you that the 100 micron figure is "up to" and in practice you will have a hard time achieving this.
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Tags: layer-height
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thread-1403 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1403 | What should I pay attention to after taking a 3d printer from extended storage | 2016-06-22T10:39:23.163 | # Question
Title: What should I pay attention to after taking a 3d printer from extended storage
So I have a self build Mendel Reprap style 3d printer.
I've not used it in sometime after moving house but I'm looking to use it again. What should I pay attention to before calibrating and running it again?
# Answer
> 2 votes
After storage you can check the following things before taking the machine into operation again:
* Are all cables intact? You wouldn't want lose cables shorting your circuits, nor cables that may have become brittle or loose to break the circuitry during operation.
* Wipe off dust of the axes. Depending on your design, this might not be a big issue. However, it does not take too much time and doesn't hurt. If you're using bushings, you don't want the dust shortening the lifetime of your rods/bushings if it is that easily avoidable. (side-note: the lifetime of bushings in regular 3D Printing use is more than you can print)
* Apply fresh grease/oil, depending on what design your printer follows. The old grease/oil might have come off or aged.
* Wipe off dust from the bed. - No dust on the nozzle, no dust embedded in your print.
* While they most likely will not change, there is a chance that your thermistors are off. This property should be given by the manufacturer as max. drift/year.
* Check your belts and pulleys. The belts might have come loose - tighten them again. If they lost their elasticity (does the 'curve' it made around the pulley stay to some extent?) they might need to be replaced.
* Check your fans when turning on the printer. You wouldn't want to lose electronics when you can cover this with a look, however unlikely it might be.
Happy calibrating after that ;)
\*edit: As Tom already pointe out, most of these things are unlikely, due to the usually rigid construction of the printer. These are merely more or less likely possibilities of things that can go bad or worse in storage. \*/edit
# Answer
> 2 votes
The main thing that might have changed is the bed level, so you should level the bed again. If your printer is sufficiently sturdy, this may not even be necessary (but this should become apparent during your first print). The remaining calibration parameters (steps per mm for all axes, PID tuning, etc...) should not have changed.
You should perhaps also check for any bolts/nuts/cables that might have come loose during transport. This is not particularly likely to have happened, unless something was loose to begin with.
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Tags: maintenance
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thread-1205 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1205 | Increased issues with filament grinding | 2016-05-20T14:36:50.827 | # Question
Title: Increased issues with filament grinding
I have a FlashForge CreatorX (MakerBot clone) that's been working fine for about 15 months. Int he past month, I started noticing "thin" layers in some of my ABS prints. I finally tracked the issue down to the extruder gear grinding the filament (after a while, enough filament had ground off that the gear teeth were filled with plastic). I cleaned the gear twice before giving up on ABS and switching to PLA. Everything seemed ok until the PLA started doing the same thing during an overnight print (thin layers on prints, audible skipping during filament feed).
Raising the temperature on the extruder seems to fix the problem, but I'm now extruding PLA at 242 °C, much higher than I used to need. I worry that continued printing at this temperature will increase wear on the thermistor and increase my chances of clogging PLA in the gear (an issue I've had twice before).
Are there any common issues that cause this issue of filament not feeding properly? I've tried cleaning out the extruder head with wire and there don't seem to be any clogs…
# Answer
> 4 votes
After disassembling the extruder mechanism, I tracked the issue down to a clogged extruder… though not in the way I'd expected. A (previously?) common method to drop filament down to the hot end and create a heat-break between the heater and the extruder gear was the use of a PTFE (Teflon) sleeve. Over time, this sleeve can become clogged by filament that has melted and degraded/carbonized, sticking to the "nonstick" walls. This creates a bottleneck for the new filament, preventing smooth extrusion.
My printer came with two replacement tubes. Swapping those in for the old, clogged tubes resulted in instantly improved printing… sorta like getting a new printer! Print temperatures are back to normal and everything operates fine. I was also able to drill out the carbonized filament from the old sleeve, though I doubt I'll reuse it. I found replacement sleeves on Amazon here and an alternative, all-metal extruder assembly manufactured by Micro-Swiss. I'm not sure if you'd run into clogging issues on the all-metal one, so perhaps staying with the PTFE tubes and replacing them occasionally is a better way to go.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I've encountered this on my Replicator Dual in the past. I was only using MakerBot branded ABS filament, so it wasn't a quality issue for me.
What I found was that the delrin plunger design that "helps" keep the filament in contact with the drive gear wasn't actually helping. So, I installed the newer assemblies that use a spinning bearing to contact with the filament.
* Install (or keep installed) a spring loaded extruder assembly.
* When feeding filament, loosen the spring and gradually tighten until the filament begins feeding on its own.
* Try to stay close to the recommended print temperatures for the material. ABS is typically somewhere around 225C, but it depends on the supplier.
* Ensure your filament is stored in a dry place. This is way more of an issue for PLA, but it doesn't hurt to keep your material protected.
* If it continues, perhaps swap out the drive gear itself. If you've dropped your motor or somehow a burr has developed on any of the teeth, naturally the burr will cut away the material. Gears are very temperamental and should be considered a consumable.
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Tags: filament
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thread-162 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/162 | Online APIs for 3D printing services | 2016-01-13T09:24:33.537 | # Question
Title: Online APIs for 3D printing services
I'm interested in finding online APIs where you could perform a call to some third party service with some print preparation request with my model (i.e. "heal a model" or "set up support") and get in return GCODE file I can send to a 3D printer. My input will be :
* The 3d model (obj, stl)
* My printer (makerbot, ultimaker, whatever) or a printer profile
* A printing profile
This is opposed to all the classical 3D printing processes we have right now. Currently when printing in a 3D printer you would need to go through these phases:
1. Create/Download a model
2. Prepare the model for printing with some 3rd party desktop software
3. Export the model as gcode
4. Save the file to some flash drive
5. Plug the flash drive into the printer
6. Print the model with the printer interface
I would like to know if this process can be simplified to a point where you can just print your model directly from your web browser without going through all these steps. I know I'm over simplifying things here, but I would still want to see if solutions like I suggested exist?
Thanks
# Answer
There are a few methods to simplify your workflow. Two solutions are outlined below and both feature a documented API you can use to further customize your workflow.
OctoPrint was mentioned by other users. OctoPrint will allow you to configure your printer, print profiles and upload STLs for printing from a web interface. You can configure profiles, slicers and slicer profiles for OctoPrint to use to complete your workflow.
Astroprint offers cloud slicing services in addition to features allowing you to manage printers and print profiles.
> 1 votes
# Answer
## WiFi
A few of the newer machines are coming stock with WiFi connectivity such as MakerBot Replicator(s)/Z18, da Vinci Jr., Kudo3D, and some others that I'm forgetting.
However, these WiFi enabled machines essentially emulate what OctoPrint and AstroPrint provide. While wirelessly connecting might save the hassle of not saving a G-Code file to an SD card/Flashdrive, then plugging in said memory device, then selecting the program to run, the wireless solution still requires a slicer to do the work.
Both OctoPrint and AstroPrint allow building up a queue of sliced prints and I know that OctoPrint will even slice a 3D Print-ready model and place it in your queue.
The only application that I'm aware of that seems to reduce the most amount of work is MakerBot Desktop with a MakerBot Replicator/Z18. While MakerBot does not have a great reputation (as of 2016), they have produced some great software. As I understand, here's how you can utilize MakerBot Desktop:
### Printing from Thingiverse
* Log into Thingiverse from MakerBot Desktop
* Find the model you want to print
* There should be a handy **Print** button located in the interface
* The software will preview the model. Most models that have been uploaded to Thingiverse will be in print-ready orientation/scaling
* Continue by pressing **Print**
* Now the software will slice the model and send the G-Code via USB or WiFi
Really, the only step that MakerBot Desktop skips is downloading the model from your web browser.
There are some rare cases that models found on the internet (such as Thingiverse) will also have the sliced G-Code, but you'll have to be careful to make sure it's the correct flavor for your machine.
## Maybe in the future?
Currently, Microsoft is working on a new 3D printing file format called .3MF which theoretically could negate the need to slice a 3D model. I'm assuming that you would need a machine that specifically can interpret the file. This project is still very much in the works and it may be years before we see full support as the format needs to be agreed upon by both software companies like SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Catia, etc. **AND** the 3D printer manufacturers like MakerBot/Stratasys, 3D Systems, and other big-named companies.
If you combine the benefit of no longer needing to slice a model and WiFi/USB connection, then most of the "manual" work you describe will no longer be necessary.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-preparation, print-api
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thread-1437 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1437 | Advance extrusion, extruder code help? | 2016-06-27T02:57:19.170 | # Question
Title: Advance extrusion, extruder code help?
I not sure what this code does..... I recently bought a titan extruded that needs to be calibrated with my printer (417 microsteps http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan\_Assembly#Firmware\_Calibration).
I am having a hard time understanding why they have D\_Filament at 2.85 (my printer was made using 1.85mm filament) and why they used it twice in there equation. Also, what are the arc interpretations for?
#ifdef ADVANCE
#define EXTRUDER\_ADVANCE\_K .0
#define D\_FILAMENT 2.85
#define STEPS\_MM\_E 836
#define EXTRUTION\_AREA (0.25 * D\_FILAMENT * D\_FILAMENT * 3.14159)
#define STEPS\_PER\_CUBIC\_MM\_E (axis\_steps\_per\_unit\[E\_AXIS\]/ EXTRUTION\_AREA)
```
#endif // ADVANCE
```
// Arc interpretation settings:
```
#define MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT 1
#define N_ARC_CORRECTION 25
```
# Answer
> 3 votes
The extruder advance feature is probably not enabled on your printer, so this code effectively does nothing (and you don't need to mess with it). Extruder advance is a feature that tries to compensate for the delay between feeding (or retracting) the filament and the point at which it actually starts to extrude, but it's generally not used. The fact that the manufacturer left `D_FILAMENT` at the default of 2.85 probably means they didn't enable this. You can check whether it is enabled by seeing if there is an (uncommented) `#define ADVANCE`.
The reason `D_FILAMENT` appears twice is because they're computing the cross-sectional area of your filament, which proportional to the square of its diameter.
The arc interpolation settings have nothing to do with extruder calibration at all, but define the resolution at which G2/G3 approximate arcs. G2/G3 are currently not supported/used by most slicers, so you can safely ignore these settings since they don't do anything that would influence regular printing.
The **only** thing that you should change is the following line in the `Configuration.h` file:
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,500}
```
Leave the first three values as-is (they may be different for your printer) and change the last one to `417`.
You could also avoid changing the firmware at all, and use `M92 E417` to set the steps per mm for your extruder, or (if you have an LCD) use the LCD to adjust the steps per mm.
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Tags: filament, extruder, calibration, maintenance, marlin
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thread-1399 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1399 | Any fix for PLA prints getting more brittle over time? | 2016-06-21T19:54:41.557 | # Question
Title: Any fix for PLA prints getting more brittle over time?
I've been printing small quantities from a PLA filament spool on a Craftbot printer for about two months now. Recently the printed objects have been coming out very brittle. Some structures that printed fine two months ago are now difficult to re-print. The print head gets clogged easily, and when the object does print, it's quite brittle and 1/4" to 1/8" rods will easily snap off if not handled gently.
I'll admit to not following the precautions for storage of PLA. It's much easier to just leave the filament installed rather than trying to remove it after each print, so this one spool has just been sitting on the back of the printer for all these weeks now. I'm sure it's been humid some of the days, we've had some rain here.
Has the spool of PLA been damaged just by leaving it exposed to room air for two months? Could that be the sole cause of the brittle prints, or are there other possible causes? Is there any way to fix the spool or future prints from this spool, or do I have to scrap it and get a new spool?
# Answer
Increase nozzle temperature. When the filament is new it will print easier, requiring less heat to print well. So if you didn't store your filament properly to begin with, increasing print temperature will make it jam less and increase layer bonding.
The reason for this is because the moisture that accumulates in the filament will absorb heat and evaporate when printed, meaning that the filament itself isn't getting the same amount of heating as it used to.
That being said, the storage suggestions mentioned by tbm should be your first priority. I personally put my filament in Zip Lock plastic bags and store these in a dry location not exposed to sun or temperature changes.
> 6 votes
# Answer
PLA absorbs moisture, so keeping the filament dry is a key factor. Aside from that, PLA is naturally more brittle than other plastics like ABS and Nylon Sorry, tried to find a graph to prove it, but couldn't find one.
There's a good Google Group discussion and many other resources that go over good storage habits, but as for fixing the existing filament.
Try the following:
* Place PLA in an enclosure (plastic bin, Zip-loc bag, etc.)
* If you have some, add some moisture absorber(s)
* Place the tub in a warm environment (naturally or artificially) and make sure the area is dry as possible (not in the shed in the back, by the woods...). Possibly next to a heater vent or space heater in your house?
Essentially, you're trying to treat the material. When the material goes through a heat treatment (aka the heat block in the extruder), the mechanical properties are beginning to change. The brittleness can be set by how quickly the material cools. I'm speculating that the moisture does any of the following:
1. Keeps the filament from heating up to the desired extrusion temperature.
2. Burns the filament.
3. The moisture is evaporated, leaving gaps in the extruded filament (under microscope).
I looked into this a few years ago and have forgotten most of what I found out, but I'll keep looking and update my answer here.
> 8 votes
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Tags: filament, pla, print-quality, filament-quality
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thread-982 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/982 | How to create a very accurate STL file as well as the slices for a 3D printer? | 2016-04-13T18:42:45.980 | # Question
Title: How to create a very accurate STL file as well as the slices for a 3D printer?
I have been using Solidworks and AutoCAD to create STL file of a 3D model I want to print. I slice the STL file using Freesteel Z level slicer (http://www.freesteel.co.uk/wpblog/slicer/) and save the slices in a bmp format.
My 3d print has an array of circular channels, all of one radius. I expected the bmp slice to contain the circular shapes looking exactly identical to each other. However, I don't obtain the exact same replicas. Looks like the pixel-wise mapping has not been done uniformly. (View http://s24.postimg.org/p7w09zvkl/snippet.png for the image).
I want each and every circle to be represented by exactly the same set of pixels in the bmp image, so that all of the circular contours are identical. (I do not prefer changing the pixel resolution.)
How can I overcome this problem? Are there any better tools which would lead to a perfectly uniform pixel-wise mapping?
Thanks!
PJ
# Answer
Your objective has a serious constraint regarding the pixel resolution. Within that limitation, the software (slicer) you are using will generate "best guess" images, particularly dependent on floating point math. There may be a single combination of circular shapes (radius) and spacing for these shapes that provides your objective, but that's likely not a practical exercise.
You have not indicated if you've tried other slicers, which would be the primary direction. A list of choices can be found here:
Free Slicing Program List
Another option that you can consider, not included in this list, is to use OpenSCAD, import the STL file, then use the projection() command to manually slice and export the image file. I use the term "manually" but the program can be coded to perform this task automatically, and there is a command line feature to OpenSCAD that may be useful.
Note also that the output of these slicers and/or OpenSCAD may exceed the resolution you desire. Manipulation of the image with a graphics editor could result in the same floating point disarray as you perform the changes.
> 3 votes
# Answer
You seem to have a pretty good understanding of how STL, so in case it helps anyone else, there is a file format (currently) in design called **3MF** which should help with more accurate 3D Printing. While its focus is to ensure solidarity in a model (or manifold), the XML-based format should leave itself open to allow the machine/slicing software to be the only limiting factor in design geometry.
Since *STL* relies on triangulation to define its shapes, it is common to see the discrepancy, especially on a circular feature.
> 2 votes
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Tags: 3d-models
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thread-1449 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1449 | What are the costs per meter of filament for PLA, ABS and PET? | 2016-06-29T16:48:35.167 | # Question
Title: What are the costs per meter of filament for PLA, ABS and PET?
My Craftbot Plus Craftware slicer estimates cost per job based on filament prices I add as parameters. What costs per meter would you use? I created spreadsheets to calculate this for 1.75mm diameter filament and arrived at PLA = 6.6 cents per meter, ABS = 6.1 and PET XT = 18.6 cents per meter.
Edit: thanks for feedback! I paid \\$22 per kilogram for PLA and ABS. I paid \\$57 for .75 kilogram of Colorfab XT Black.
# Answer
This strongly depends on the cost of the spool in question. Prices are not consistent among materials at all; a spool of ABS can cost anywhere from \\$15 to \\$60 and the same price range applies to pretty much all other plastic.
For the purpose of this question I am going to assume that a 1 kilogram spool costs \\$25 (regardless of material) but you can scale the figures to what is appropriate for your brand of filament.
ToyBuilder Labs lists the density of ABS at 1.04g/ml, whereas PLA is somewhat more dense at 1.25g/ml. As such, a 1kg spool of ABS would be 400 meters (1.75mm filament) or 156 meters (2.85mm filament). PLA would come out to 333 meters (125 meters for 2.85mm filament)
We thus have the following costs (cost per meter for 2.85mm filament in parenthesis):
* ABS: 6.25 cents/meter (16)
* PLA: 7.5 cents/meter (20)
The density of PETG is roughly the same as PLA, so they have the same cost per meter (for similarly priced spools).
In general, to compute the cost per meter, you would use the following formula:
$$\[\text{\\$/m}\]=\[\text{cost of 1 }kg\] \times \[\text{density in }g/mm^3\] \times \frac{\[\text{diameter in }mm\]^2\ \times \pi }{4000}$$
> 6 votes
# Answer
The simplest method is to divide spool price by its length. That's obvious I think. If PLA 1.75 (1kg net) has about 120m length and it costs 16usd then it looks like 1m costs arount 13c. =price/length
I think everyone can buy different filament at different price from different vendors so there is no good general price to enter into your slicer app. It has to be calculated each time you use new filament.
There are also other parts of the price. Electricity, time, wear, depreciation, know-how even the rent is some part of the ending price of the final product. Of course most of them are incalculable as they are permiles or so. But if you don't plan to sell it you can base on the filament price only.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: filament, pla, abs, cost, pet
--- |
thread-1451 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1451 | Prints get really messy for no apparent reason | 2016-06-29T18:49:31.143 | # Question
Title: Prints get really messy for no apparent reason
I have a serious problem and I can't find a way to solve it because I have no idea why is it happening. For some reason the things I print get really messy, like a mountain range growing on the print. It looks like overflow but it can't be because I'm already using 0.82 flow modifier and if I go any lower the printout will fall apart as the extrusions won't touch at all. I've double checked my extruder steps and my filament and also my nozzle width, all are set up correctly. The whole thing looks like the printer is over-extruding just in some parts of the print.
# Answer
> 4 votes
It definitely looks like over extruding. But similar effect can appear with proper extruding (or not too much exceeded) but with too high temperature.
If it appears only on some parts of the first layer then it can be:
* bed leveling issue (or eventually bed is bent)
* caret mechanism issue (dispositioned/bent)
You can also check different speeds just to be sure.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your printer could be **calibrated too close to the bed**: if your slicer is set to use a 0.4mm first layer height, but the printer actually moves the nozzle 0.2mm from the bed, then you will get this result.
If this is the case, the first layers look over extruded and squashed, while layers after sparse infill has been printed will look fine. The support structure will in this case give room for the extra filament, making the extrusion look normal again (although it probably was fine all along).
# Answer
> 0 votes
This is happening on the first or second layer, correct? It looks like your nozzle is trammed too close to the build plate. If there is less gap between the nozzle and bed than the slicer expects, it will over-extrude the first layer. That tends to produce "bacon" patterns of ripples on the bottom of the print as the plastic gets unevenly squeezed out to the side of the strand.
---
Tags: print-quality
--- |
thread-1460 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1460 | Bed leveling method not working with Repetier firmware 0.92.9? | 2016-06-30T16:38:23.227 | # Question
Title: Bed leveling method not working with Repetier firmware 0.92.9?
I homebuilt a delta 3D printer (like Kossel mini) with a Z probe near the hotend with manual deploy and RAMPS 1.4 board:
* I configured the Repetier firmware with the online tool;
* All my endstops (included the Z probe endstop) work in reverse mode, so I reversed the endstops triggering option;
* I enabled *Z-probing* and set the `BED_LEVELING_METHOD` to 1 (n\*n grid);
* I set `Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS` to 3, and;
* Finally I downloaded it and uploaded to my Mega 2560.
Then I tested it inside Repetier-Host and all seems to work well (homing, moving, extruding) except for the Autobed leveling method.
Specifically, it always starts measurement of **3 Points** (with 3 probe repetition each) even if I change the type of measurement. It never does a **grid measurement** or a **2 points mirror** measurement.
I also tried to re-upload the firmware with `EEPROM_MODE` to 0 but didn't work.
Does anyone have the same issue, or can explain to me why this happens?
# Answer
As a guess, you are using the wrong command. If set for n x n grid, you get 3 point measurement with G29, but that is not auto leveling, it is just setting Z height - based on average height at 3 points.
What you need is `G32 S2` with `S2` to store result in EEPROM (and therefore you should have EEPROM enabled with auto leveling. It is also used to store endstop offsets).
> 4 votes
# Answer
Delta bed leveling has been dodgy in Repetier for a long time. There are a number of fixes occurring in the dev branch right now (June 2016) if you look at Github. So it's getting better, but I wouldn't call it mature yet. (Delta auto-calibration is one of the only big shortcomings of Repetier, in my opinion.)
The problem with approaches like bed plane compensation and grid/mesh leveling for Deltas is that they don't fix print geometry errors caused by imprecise printer construction. They just help get the first layer down. What I would recommend is to use one of the non-Repetier delta auto-calibration techniques available in order to get your firmware settings correct, and then you won't need to use "slap a bandaid on a calibration problem" solutions like grid leveling. Two popular options:
* **Load Rich Cattell's Marlin branch**, perform auto-calibration, record the adjusted values, and then load those parameters into Repetier. This will usually work well enough that you don't need to attempt any kind of auto-leveling in Repetier. (I don't recommend actually printing with Marlin on a Delta due to lack of performance optimization. Repetier can print much, much faster while managing more features like LCDs. Marlin gets bogged down doing all the Delta kinematics math unless you print very slow.)
* **Use David Crocker's awesome online delta calibration tool.** I'd recommend using six-factor calibration with 10 probe points. This is the manual version of the auto-calibration technique built into dc42 RepRapFirmware, and it's practically magical compared to the routines built into Repetier.
Sidenote: Grid leveling can be a very useful technique for large printers where bed flatness is difficult to achieve. It's just very limited as a way to deal with delta calibration problems.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: delta, repetier, kossel, z-probe, repetier-host
--- |
thread-1466 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1466 | File Input data types | 2016-07-01T19:18:06.453 | # Question
Title: File Input data types
I'm a newb and don't know much about 3D printers. In visual basic I can create vector data of 3d objects,that can be loaded into a binary or text file. Can files like this be used with a 3d printer?
### Example:
This is a very simplified example of how the code generates 3d vector data.
```
ju jv jw determine the size and dimensions of the object
ru, rv, rw are the vector lenghts
```
The incrementors used to increase the size of the object to the max ju jv jw vaules:
```
ru=ru+1
rv=rv+1
rw=rw+1
```
'the angles can also be incremented to for curves and spirials'
the angles of the vectors
```
angle u =0
angle v =45
angle w = 90
```
### Simplified code:
```
For k1 = 0 To Ju
ru=ru+1
xu = (ru * Sin(angle u))
yu = (ru * Cos(angle u))
For k2 = 0 To Jv
rv=rv+1
xv = (rv * Sin(angle v))
yv = (rv * Cos(angle v))
For k3 = 0 To Jw
rw=rw+1
xw = (rw * Sin(angle w))
yw = (rw * Cos(angle w))
Output xu, yu, xv, yv, xw, yw ..to file in the order produced on this line
Next k3 : next k2: next k1
```
Can a 3d printer read this output as is and use it to make a 3d object?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Not directly. The most common types of 3D printers build objects in layers. They "draw" a layer, then "draw" another layer slightly above it, repeating until they've "drawn" the entire model. Preparing your model for this is called "slicing", since you are "slicing" your model into these layers. Slicing is a complex process and it's a lot of work to "roll your own" software for it, and there are several good, free applications to do it for you out there already.
What you probably *can* do easily is output your data in STL format to be read by the slicing software. STL (either ASCII or binary) is a dead simple format that contains the triangles that comprise your model. So simple, in fact, that the Wikipedia article tells you just about all you need to know.
**To get triangles from squares:**
```
A--B Here is a "square" with vertices ABCD. A--B A--B A
| | Splitting it from A to C produces two |\ | -> \ | |\
| | triangles, ABC and CDA. This can be | \| -> \| | \
D--C done as part of the output by simply D--C C D--C
writing two triangles for every
square in the input.
```
---
Tags: 3d-design, slicing, cad
--- |
thread-1468 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1468 | Does the layer thickness have any effect of the strength of the 3D printed object? | 2016-07-02T07:41:12.473 | # Question
Title: Does the layer thickness have any effect of the strength of the 3D printed object?
Is a 100 micron layer thickness object stronger than 300 micron layer thickness 3D printed object? Are there any rules to follow?
Filament type - PLA
# Answer
> 15 votes
3D Matter has published an excellent article on the subject. They find that thicker layers result in a stronger part, with 0.3mm layers giving a part that is around 24% stronger than the same part printed with 0.1mm layers.
One small issue with this study is that it did not look at the effects of temperature. Raising the temperature generally results in stronger parts because the layers will fuse better. It is possible that you could make a 0.1mm part just as strong as a 0.3mm part by raising the printing temperature.
Another consideration for inter-layer bonding is how much the next layer is "squished" onto the previous one. Using a wider extrusion width will improve strength.
The main issue with the strength of FDM parts is that they tend to break much easier along the layers, much like how wood is much stronger across the grain. You have to take this into account when making your design, and ensure that features that will be subjected to stress/strain are printed in the XY-plane.
---
Tags: pla, print-strength
--- |
thread-388 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/388 | Taking a new hotend into operation (cleaning, forming, etc) | 2016-01-25T12:37:40.963 | # Question
Title: Taking a new hotend into operation (cleaning, forming, etc)
When installing and using a new hotend for the first time, which steps of action should be taken before. This will probably be more applicable to chinese clones than to authentic products (is the statement true?): **Should a certain cleaning procedure be carried out** (removing swarf/shavings for example)? **Should mechanical precision be controlled and if necessary improved** (de-edging and nozzle size are two things I could think of)?
I know the topic How should I clean my extruder when changing materials?, which is a nice addon read, but I am concerned about brand-new extruders.
# Answer
> 1 votes
So far, these are my experiences to make a new hotend work properly.
* Read the instructions. The ones of the 'original' if it is a clone.
* Check the parts. Is everything included you need?
* and check the design, if it is a clone. It might not be the same as the one they're trying to copy. Figure out the differences (as far as I encountered mainly the heatbreak/inliner design)
* There is no immediate need to mechanically check the nozzle if it passes an optical check. You will be calibrating the extrusion anyway and unless you're unhappy with the results, there are most likely more severe impacts than the accuracy of the nozzle diameter.
* Cleaning should be done to some extent. You wouldn't want any visible leftover products from the hotend's production in the extrusion path. Anything that you can't see will most likely be removed easily by the filament and should only be a problem when there are other more significant flaws.
* You maybe want to install a heatbreak into the heatsink with lots of thermal paste to transfer the heat as effectively as possible. A defined and short meltzone is key for reliable operation.
* You also maybe want to add some thermal paste for the thermistor/thermocouple to ensure quick heat transfer here.
* You maybe want to insulate your hotend thermally to not lose heat by dissipation. I asked a question about that process here: Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?
* Test whether the filament is easily guided into the heatbreak, so that it doesn't stop being extruded by catching an edge or deforming over one.
* Check the two valuable answers of TextGeek and Dimitri Modderman, there's good information in them!
This answer is most likely not complete and totally up for discussion. I appreciate any addtional answers and comments to improve on the topic!
# Answer
> 4 votes
I haven't done anything special to set up mine. But it's probably worth doing a general cleaning. I'd swab it off with alcohol, including running a q-tip or similar inside the fiber feed path. Then blow out the nozzle with compressed air to make sure it's clear.
You could measure the nozzle diameter by fitting fine drill bits in to see which is the largest one the passes through freely. Be sure to measure how much fiber your extruder *really* takes in when you ask it to extrude a certain length -- but that's about the extruder, not the hotend per se.
Finally, I'd check the insulation, if any. I got a couple hot ends that had big gaps in/around the insulation. I've found that "high-temperature gasket maker" is great for improving insulation (depends, of course, on the shape and design of the specific hot end.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I heard some people are using silver polish on a pipe-rag (not sure what the English word is, it's a long metal wire with threads on it to clean a pipe (for smoking). Then put the pipe-cleaner in a cordless drill and spin it around to polish the inside the hotend to have it silky smooth inside.
Also i heard some people put a hotend in canola oil and cook it, supposedly the canola gets on the hotend (like baking in a new chinese wok pan, you put oil and heat it to create a nice oily film).
I always bought original J-heads and switched to E3D only for my Delta printer. Never had to clean anything, but heard the chinese clones sometimes lack the finish the "real" products have.
---
Tags: hotend
--- |
thread-1474 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1474 | Trying to flash Davinci XYZ 1.0, nothing but black bars | 2016-07-04T03:51:53.017 | # Question
Title: Trying to flash Davinci XYZ 1.0, nothing but black bars
I get nothing but black bars and "Unknown USB Device" from Windows 10. This is after a failed flash that was otherwise going directly according to plan.
This Davinci has been nothing but frustration for me, and I'm really tired of fruitless Google-Fu.
Much of what I see pretty much says it's bricked; attempting to jump the jp1 jumper any further does me no good.
Is there anything I can do to actually move forward, or are we in soldering-iron territory now?
# Answer
> 0 votes
I had this occur on my MakerBot Replicator Dual after I tried repairing a blown voltage regulator. If you refer to the previous link to my SE question, pay attention to the comments of Ryan's answer where it is explained that (in my case at least) the main processor was damaged and therefore couldn't properly load the firmware. The machine was able to load just enough to initialize the chip on the LCD screen, but since the main boards processor was blown, couldn't load the firmware to send commands to the screen and continue the boot sequence.
I'm not certain that you're encountering the same EXACT issue, but you have all of the same side effects that I did. Basically, if you're not pro with electronics, your board is bricked. Otherwise, you ***might*** be able to salvage the board by replacing the processor, but there's no guarantee that something else isn't wrong or that the new processor was installed correctly.
---
Tags: repetier
--- |
thread-1383 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1383 | How to create tappered thread in OpenSCAD? | 2016-06-18T09:54:45.630 | # Question
Title: How to create tappered thread in OpenSCAD?
Is there any simple way of creating tappered thread in OpenSCAD? I need something like 10 mm in diameter at the end, 9 at the top and the height of 10 mm.
# Answer
I have contacted Dan Kirshner (the author of openscad threads library) and he has updated the library. Now it supports tapered threads. Thanks, Dan!
Thread-drawing modules for OpenSCAD
> 4 votes
# Answer
If your math and OpenSCAD skills are superior to mine, you may be able to make use of the OpenSCAD Metric Nut, Bolt & Threads Library located here: OpenSCAD Metric Nut, Bolt & Threads Library
It uses various means to generate polygons about a radius and includes the formulae for partial revolutions. It is presumed in the design that the center of rotation for the generated polygons is constant. I looked over the code for outside thread and could easily determine the radius references.
With proper coding, you could generate a variable radius based on the height of the cylinder at a specific point and achieve the tapered effect you require.
I expect that you'd have to reduce your desired radius by a fraction, say 0.05 mm in order to embed the thread forming polygons within your tapered cylinder.
If you aren't a strong coder, disregard this answer.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design
--- |
thread-1480 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1480 | How do you make sure you have the right voltage on the trimpots on an A4988 stepper driver? | 2016-07-04T23:50:08.490 | # Question
Title: How do you make sure you have the right voltage on the trimpots on an A4988 stepper driver?
I've been looking into this, but:
1. I'm not certain how to configure my multimeter;
2. I don't know how to keep the voltage going, and;
3. I don't know how to keep the multimeter connected to the VMOT?
I'm told you're supposed to aim for about 1 A.
# Answer
Generally speaking voltage on stepstick output should be around 1V.
To imagine more or less what the current and what the voltage is, you can think about it in the same way as about water.
The wire is more or less the same as the pipe. The voltage can be imagined as (sort of) the height from which the water flows but the current can be imagined as an amount of water which flows. To simplify things we assume that all our pipes are closed into circuit and we have pump/battery and we have a motor which is a reverted pump ;) and finally we have our stepstick which is a tap in our model.
So no matter what the height (voltage) is we know that tap (stepstick) will pass some amount (current) of water. We can drive it turning tap or turning a potentiometer on the stepstick PCB.
So we got it. Principles (deadly simplified) are now clear. See here for more details
Getting back to your question. You have to know what is your stepstick reference voltage. To make sure about that you have to check out resistor(s) next to main black element on stepstick board. There should be R100 or R200 which are very common.
Now you should read data from motor label to know what is proper current for your motor and calculate
voltage = motor\_current * 8 * resistance\_of\_resistor
So now you know what is proper voltage for your motor and stepstick.
You measure voltage between potentiometer and GND (see on the picture)
If you set and connect everything and start printouts you should check motor temperature. Use your finger. If you can touch motor and hold your finger not more than half a second then probably the voltage set on potentiometer is too high (motor can reach 80° Celsius and it's fine but more will shorten its life span) and you should reduce it a bit (reduce by 5/100 V). If you notice that motor growls or barks then your voltage is probably too low and you can increase it by 5/100V.
Too high current will also reduce longevity of stepstick so cool them out with fan.
**Please be noticed.**
Z-axis motors will usually be not too hot as they work less than X and Y but as they are both connected to one stepstick so they need more current - set higher voltage there.
Here is a reprap.org site to get basic knowledge about stepsticks.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I want to add some points and clarifications to the answer that @darthpixel already has given. Most information you need is in there, I want to give some more practical advice, since that is what I understand you're question is asking for. I'll start with some points on the more theoretical side, though:
* notice that the Vref is not a voltage that is passed on to your motor. The described pipe analogy is very good, but the Vref is outside of this analogy. The reference voltage Vref is only used to set the current limit. This seems confusing, but has electronic reasons. One can understand the major (side-)benefit easily: Voltages are very easy to measure externally, because you connect your voltmeter in parallel. If you wouldd want to measure the current, you would need to get your ammeter in series with the circuit.
* The stepsticks work by supplying the needed current for movement of the motor (current, because it works by creating magnetic fields), the voltage the stepstick supplies is 'just' supplied as high as needed to feed the desired current through your motor (determined by its resistivity/impedance). This just as an add-on.
Now to the practical side and the application of darthpixel's answer and the above:
You want to measure the reference voltage to limit the current that produces the torque, but also heats up the motor - let darthpixel's advice be your guide: if you can't touch it because it is too hot, then there is too much current, i.e. Vref is too high). To do so:
1. Set your multimeter to volts, range can be autorange or something bigger than 2V.
2. Connect one lead of your multimeter to the ground of your Prusa i3 controller board's power input (I use the screw that fastens the ground input of the RAMPS). The other lead goes directly to the center of the trimpot on the Stepstick. I took the best of my paint skills to create an image showing the process:
3. Note the value you read (12V power has to be on)
4. Use an insulated screwdriver and turn the trimpot slightly.
5. Get a new reading by repeating the measurement process.
6. Repeat the whole process until you get the desired Vref.
Warning: While I've had no problems turning the trimpot while everything was switched on (with my DRV8825 drivers), you should switch the power supply off when doing so.
The described process allows only for a stepwise and rather slow setting of the Vref, but this is the easiest way I've found. I have read of people that use a crocodile clamp to attach the multimeter to the screwdriver for a readout while turning.
If you don't have any idea whether you need more or less current on the motor at the moment, check your resistors on the board and calculate the Vref you should need (see darthpixel's answer for the formula). I would however just do what darthpixel already suggested: figure out the trimpot position by ears and touch: klicking motor: go to higher Vref. Can't touch the motor for more than some seconds: go to lower Vref. It might be a lengthy process, but in the end you'd need to do it anyway to get the best out of the printer!
> 7 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3-rework, multi-meter, stepper-driver
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thread-1477 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1477 | How to optimally make a 3D model of an object using photos? | 2016-07-04T21:53:18.823 | # Question
Title: How to optimally make a 3D model of an object using photos?
I would like to obtain a 3D model of my insoles. I tried to scan it with 123D catch but finding reference points is difficult because the insole is black.
How could I improve the scanning? I attach a photo of the insole to show its not easy shape.
I thought about placing a grid of white spots on the surface, but will it be enough?
Also, is it recommended to keep the camera still and rotate the object (I have a rotating stand) or should I move the camera? in the second case, the accuracy of the photos will be lower, while rotating 5-10 degrees the stand every time is extremely easy.
As background should I use a checkerboard or something else not repetitive?
I noticed that the insole has basically three different "levels", joined smoothly with each other. These "planes" are sloped the same way, so that if I change the pitch of the insole by about 10 degrees, they will be horizontal. Would it improve the accuracy?
Edit: the insole is perfectly new, newer worn before.
**Update**
I dotted the insole with white paint (the white eraser paint used in office and school) and I took a series of photos with the insole in top of a tripod, laying on a flat white cardboard support. 55 photos in total at 3 different elevations (side, medium, high). I also did a test with fixed camera and rotating object.
Photoscan did not work well in general. Keeping the object fixed produces the best results, but poor.
123D Catch did a much better job! again with fixed object and moving camera. Still, treating the resulting mesh was difficult and the accuracy could be improved.
Autodesk Remake 2017 worked VERY well, as you can see in the attached screenshot, and it allows the editing of the mesh to remove useless parts of the model. I haven't tried yet to process the photos with the camera fixed and the rotating object. I did the processing locally (it's slow!) with maximum details and resolution.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Usually, the largest variability in 3D imaging is lighting, closely followed by the color scheme. You'll probably want to heed some of the following points:
* No colors in the background/stand, keep to shades (unless otherwise specified for scanner)
* No gradients. This applies to poor lighting causing a "gradient" light effect
* Set the backdrop beyond the range of the scanner if possible (like with Skanect w/ Microsoft Kinect)
* Ideally set the backdrop and especially the stand in contrast with the color of the object.
You're right, a typical 3D scanner will have a difficult time with darker colors due to physics. However, there are no rules that say you can't change the color of the object.
In this application, **I would suggest just going ahead and spray painting the object and scanning it**. Scanning the insole is going to require super tight tolerances in scanning as I'm assuming the insole is naturally worn due to use.
Completely alternatively from 3D scanning, you could try using a 3D touch probe like on a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine). It will take longer, but a touch probe doesn't care what color the object is.
**Update**
The touch probe comment seems to be a hit, so I'll elaborate. My experience with touch probes comes only from manufacturing technology and can be found and in a variety of different machine tools:
* Mills
* Lathes
* CMMs
* Vision Systems
* "Romer" Arms (aka portable CMM)
You could probably get away with searching for a local machine shop (or job shop) and asking if they have a machine for reverse engineering. The quickest and easiest machine for reverse engineering (in my experience) is a portable CMM, I recommend Googling it.
Alternatively, I've heard of people adding touch probes to their 3D Printers, but I haven't seen it before. In theory, a basic touch probe can easily be achieved by using a momentary switch. If you're good with programming and maybe a bit of Arduino, you could do the following:
* Add momentary (normally off) switch to Arduino
* Find a way of attaching the switch (below nozzles)
* Connect to your 3d printer in your preferred method and preferred programming language. I've used the provided libraries in Python that come with installing MakerWare in order to connect to my MakerBot.
* Write your routine to sequentially move the new probe in a grid pattern and then incrementally move the Z up until you get a signal from your Arduino that the momentary has been switched on.
* For each trigger, append a simple text file with a new line containing the coordinates.
* once complete, you should have a "point cloud" of your insole which, if formatted correctly, will be able to import into CAD software
There are a few file types off the top of my head that can be used including:
* .pts
* .XYZ
* .CSV
# Answer
> 1 votes
I don't have enough reputation to comment.
This is a short pointer to another webpage: https://www.sculpteo.com/blog/2016/01/20/turning-a-picture-into-a-3d-model/
It may be helpful.
---
Tags: scanning
--- |
thread-1465 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1465 | How to set a new homing position using software and/or slicer without changing hardware end-stop? | 2016-07-01T10:11:45.450 | # Question
Title: How to set a new homing position using software and/or slicer without changing hardware end-stop?
**Before the question, here is my setup;**
* Prusa i3 (with mainboard Mks Gen v1.2)
* Repetier as slicer
* Marlin source code
My main task is to convert my 3D printer into a chocolate printer. I have replaced the filament extruder with a chocolate extruder. And it is there that my issue began. Because, the new extruder is stopping slightly off the y-axis when homing. It is going out of the standard 20x20 cm bed. The other X and Z axes are OK.
So, I have played with the `#defines` explained below, but I couldn't even make any single mm difference by homing. They are all ignored when the printer is homing. It goes and rests on the hardware end-stops and stops there eventually.
All I want 10 mm offset for Y axis.
**Started with this;**
```
// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 190 <<<< (tested with 190 and 210)
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
```
**and this;**
```
// The position of the homing switches
#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the cartesian print volume.
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 10 <<< (tested with 10 or -10)
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
```
I have also played with the **slicer tool (Repetier)** settings where homing related values are mentioned but no joy there as well.
Any input highly appreciated.
# Answer
The Y-Max setting does not help, because it is the software end stop for the other end of the axis.
The Y Home position also doesn't help as it only changes the coordinate that the printer assumes for when it hits the home position. That is used for printers (like deltas) that home to the max end switches.
What could help is a little bit of G-Code right after the Homing. The Homing is a G28. Just add a G1Y10 after that. That will move your Y Axis 10 mm right after homing. So it will then be in the position that you want. If you then add a G92 then this position will become the home position for the print. So adding these two lines should fix it. Cura lets you edit these start G-Codes so that it then will automatically add the modified codes to all your prints.
You can also try a G10 (with a firmware that supports it.
For Details on G-Codes see: http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode
> 6 votes
# Answer
Now I've finally had time to look into this, since I knew it somehow existed, but wasn't sure how it worked:
Use the M206 G-code command in Marlin, Sprinter, Smoothie, or RepRap Firmware to offset the 0,0,0 coordinate of your printbed relative to the endstops.
The reprap.org wiki page says:
> The values specified are added to the endstop position when the axes are referenced. The same can be achieved with a G92 right after homing (G28, G161).
>
> With Marlin firmware, this value can be saved to EEPROM using the M500 command.
>
> A similar command is G10, aligning these two is subject to discussion.
>
> With Marlin 1.0.0 RC2 a negative value for z lifts(!) your printhead.
We see, this basically is the same suggested by @LarsPoetter, but it comes with the great advantage that it can be saved to EEPROM, hence you don't need to add it every time or into every different sliccer (if I understand it correctly, - I haven't yet tried it myself)
Let us know if this works for a permanent solution.
> 3 votes
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Tags: firmware, chocolate, homing
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thread-1489 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1489 | Distortion calibration on XY plane in Repetier | 2016-07-07T15:35:27.710 | # Question
Title: Distortion calibration on XY plane in Repetier
I built a delta 3d printer (like a mini Kossel) and now I'm trying to calibrate it. I made all the horizontal and vertical bars myself with wood and I bought angle joints (between bars) made with 3D printed ABS.
It passes all tests in Z correction tools calibration. I used a z-probe (with manual deploying) to calibrate it with `G32` and `G33` commands.
Now I'm trying to calibrate the distortion that takes place on the x and y axes. Basically what happens is that in a test cube of **10x10x10mm** it is translated on x and y axes at some points in the corners.
Below an explanatory image:
The dimensions are good (less than half of a mm) but got this bad visible distortion (about 1 mm or less).
There is a tool or a command in Repetier-host/firmware that corrects this issues?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Skew distortion in deltas means there is something physically wrong with your printer build, such as the towers not being evenly spaced or being tilted. The first thing you should do is confirm the mechanical build -- measure the distance between towers, angles between towers, parallelism of all three towers, and perpendicularity of all three towers to the bed. If you post photos of your build, we might be able to provide more specific advice.
If you can't get the mechanical issue sorted, it's possible to calibrate out some specific build errors (like skew due to uneven tower angle), but that's nearly impossible to do "by hand." You really need to use a Z probe and auto-calibration sequence such as in Rich Cattell's Marlin fork or dc42 RepRapFirmware.
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Tags: repetier, repetier-host, delta, kossel
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thread-1478 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1478 | Connecting Sain Smart Mechanical End Stops to Ramps 1.4? | 2016-07-04T22:48:21.577 | # Question
Title: Connecting Sain Smart Mechanical End Stops to Ramps 1.4?
I have Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework.
I've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up having to pull the plug.
From what I understand, there are two ways to wire ends stops in general, but you have to change the settings in the firmware to make it work right.
There are 3 connectors on the board:
* S (signal)
* \- (ground)
* \+ (VCC)
My Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops have 4 connectors!!!
According to their website, left to right with the white connector facing you, they are as follows:
1. S
2. Normally Closed (NC)
3. Normally Open (NO)
4. VCC
Now it seems to me that if I take those connections and connect them as follows it should work...(ramps on the left, sainsmart end stop on the right):
1. S (signal) -\> S
2. \- (ground) -\> Normally Open (NO)
3. \+ (VCC) -\> VCC
4. *nothing* -\> Normally Closed (NC)
...but! Screwing this up by either using the wrong firmware of selecting the wrong wire frys your board, so I thought I'd ask here. Sources please.
# Answer
> 3 votes
The multiple connections are redundant. Your picture indicates the wires labelled as "SIGNAL, GND, GND, VCC". This is correct if the board is a "standard" mechanical endstop v1.2. The two middle pins are both ground, but you only need to use one of them.
You can simply connect signal to signal and ground to ground. That is sufficient for the endstop to work. You only need to connect VVC to VVC if you want the LED that's on the board to function.
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Tags: ramps-1.4, prusa-i3-rework, marlin, firmware, endstop
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thread-1493 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1493 | Printrbot simple metal not auto leveling | 2016-07-09T00:46:05.107 | # Question
Title: Printrbot simple metal not auto leveling
I have a printrbot simple metal with the heated bed upgrade. Its been working fine until Cura updated, now, after the x,y, and z axis zeros, the print starts without moving to the other corners and auto leveling the bed. Does the new version of cura require me to turn the function on or should i try to re flash the printers firmware? Thoughts? Thanks.
UPDATE
using an older version of Cura, the printer auto levels and works as expected. Is there any clue why the new update of cura stops this function?
# Answer
See if you can check what the starting G-Code is. I havn't used Cura but what I think has changed for you is that your new software is homing just using the G28 command and not the G29 command.
I think if you can look into your slicer settings you will find an option to change what the starting gcode is and you will probably want to change it to something like this
```
G28 X0 Y0
G28 Z0
G29
```
> 3 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, z-axis, bed-leveling
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thread-1519 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1519 | What are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do? | 2016-07-17T20:26:44.100 | # Question
Title: What are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do?
My first and only 3D printer is a Printrbot Simple Metal, which has a hotend that doesn't expose any of its internal parts. Easy for beginners, I suppose: "The hotend is that tube that heats up the plastic and deposits it on the print bed."
But I've been trying to learn more, and many hotends out there don't look quite as simple. My Printrbot hotend probably isn't as simple as it looks, either.
What are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do?
*(PS: This is a general question, not specifically about the two example hotends above.)*
# Answer
This varies by hotend design. The following is a list of components which you might find in a typical hotend, but note that different designs may integrate these components to some extent. For instance, on the J-head the heat block, nozzle and heatbreak are all one and the same component whereas on the E3D hotends these are all separate parts.
* **Nozzle**: This is the part where the filament comes out. It takes in the molten filament (typically as a bead of 1.75mm/3mm) and tapers down to the nozzle size (typically around 0.4mm). These are typically made of brass for its good heat conductivity, but brass is not suitable for printing abrasive materials (such as glow in the dark and metal-filled filaments) so sometimes (hardened) stainless steel is used.
* **Heater Block**: Usually made from aluminium, the heater block joins the nozzle to the heat break and holds the heater cartridge and thermistor.
* **Heater Cartridge**: most hotends use a ceramic heater cartridge, though some older designs use power resistors or nichrome wire. This component is, as the name suggests, responsible for heating up the hotend. The heat block usually clamps around the heater cartridge to provide good contact.
* **Thermistor**: This part senses the temperature of the heat block. It is usually a small glass bead with two wires attached (which are typically insulated with glass fiber or teflon). For high-temperature printing, a thermocouple may be used in stead.
* **Heat Break**: this is the part where hot meets cold. It usually takes the form of a thin tube and is made of stainless steel for its low thermal conductivity. The goal is generally to have the transition be as short as possible so as little of the filament is in a molten state as possible. It connects the heat block to the heat sink.
* **Heat Sink**: the purpose of the heat sink is to cool down the cold side of the heat break. It is typically cooled with a fan. Most heat sinks also have a standard groove-mount for mounting to your printer. The heat sink usually has grooves to increase its surface area and cooling capability.
* **Teflon Liner**: some hotends have a PTFE liner that guides the filament through the heat break into the nozzle. This makes it easier to print PLA, but compared to an all-metal hotend, limits the temperatures at which you can print (making it difficult to print PETG and impossible to print polycarbonate).
The ubis hotend you mentioned is a bit simpler than this, and simply uses a big chunk of PEEK in place of the heat break/sink. PEEK has very low thermal conductivity and thus passive cooling is sufficient. However, PEEK limits the temperatures at which you can print.
Here is an illustration outlining these components on an E3D V6 hotend:
Note that in this image the Teflon liner only goes into the heat sink, and not into the heat break or block. This means the maximum temperature is not limited by the Teflon, but if it did go all the way in (as is the case with, for instance, the Lite6) then it would be.
> 24 votes
# Answer
**picture on the left**
This hotend is made out of PEEK plastics (beige). It can work in temperature upto 250C. As it is also good heat insulator then it doesn't need to have cooling fan. Red part on this picture is just a cover (insulator) of the heater which heatup nozzle (gold). Black are just wires and connectors.
**picture on the right**
This hotend is metal so it needs two things - cooling fan and heat barrier. Beginning fron the left - red wires are connected to (silver) block which is heater itself. Between the block and this round silver part (which is a heatsink) there is heat barrier (thin pipe which is poor heat conductor). Heatsink has plastic funnel (blue) which directs an airflow from fan (black) through heatsink.
> 4 votes
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Tags: hotend
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thread-1520 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1520 | Adjusting Bed Temp values on Monoprice/Wanhao I3 (Repetier Firmware) | 2016-07-18T02:43:22.077 | # Question
Title: Adjusting Bed Temp values on Monoprice/Wanhao I3 (Repetier Firmware)
I have a Monoprice Maker Select, which is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2 (Prusa clone). I've found that the heated bed temperature values on the LCD are incorrect. The heater works, and the controller maintains the bed temp just fine, but the temperature reported isn't the true temperature. When using the PLA preset, with the bed set for 60°C, once the temperature stabilizes at 60°C on the display, I can measure it with a laser thermometer and get a consistent 54°C across the buildplate. With the ABS preset of 90°C, I read 80°C. And with the bed set for the maximum value of 120°C, I'm only reading 102-104°C.
I've checked these values with the bare aluminum build plate, and I've allowed the temps to stabilize for at least 10 minutes to ensure that I have consistent readings. I believe the the firmware is using the wrong temperature curve for the thermistor in my device.
I had hoped that there was a simple scaling constant that I could adjust, but that doesn't seem to be the case. I've researched enough to learn that my device is running Repetier 0.91 firmware, and this page on temperature control on the Repetier wiki says that each type of thermistor needs a custom voltage-\>temp lookup table, and talks about building a custom table in "configuration.h". I've tried to follow this line of research but I feel like I'm going around in circles. It sounds like I *could* build a custom version of the firmware to install on my printer, and in doing so I could potentially specify a better conversion table. This gives me pause for several reasons:
1. I haven't found any online reference to other people installing a custom Repetier build on a Wanhao I3.
2. I have no idea what values to use for the temp conversion table.
3. I can't even find anyone else reporting my issue.
4. I'm fairly new to this; I rather not brick my printer, and I haven't found any good guides to installing firmware on the device either.
5. I'm not convinced this is the right option. Should I be looking at replacing the thermistor instead? And if so, what's the correct part?
I've also looked into the Melzi board inside the printer hoping for a variable resistor to tweak the thermistor voltage divider, but no such luck, at least in the schematics.
I could just live with it; I've been using a 67°C setting to achieve a true 60°C bed temp for PLA, but I'm starting to work with ABS and I'd like the option to get above 100°C bed temp. Am I on the right track? Suggestions? I'm still pretty new to the device and 3D printing in general, so I may have overlooked something obvious.
**Update**: additional question in light of Tom's answer: what is the expected max actual bed temp achievable on a Wanhao/Monoprice I3? I'm measuring 100°C with an LCD reading of 120°C, but I'd like to get to 110°C if possible.
# Answer
It is completely normal for the surface of the bed to be cooler than the indicated temperature. The thermistor goes on the underside of the bed, near the heating traces. The top of the bed (which is further away from the heating traces) will naturally be cooler.
It would be possible, though a lot of work, to build a custom thermistor table that more accurately reflects the surface of the bed, though that means your thermistor table will no longer reflect the characteristics of your thermistor, but instead reflect the particular circumstances under which you build your custom table (which would be affected by ambient temperature, any drafts, ...).
The accuracy of an infrared laser thermometer depends on the characteristics of the surface you're measuring for, so unless you adjusted the thermometer specifically to measure the aluminium surface of the bed, it's possible your thermometer is off as well.
The exact temperature of your bed doesn't matter anyways (you just need it approximately in the right ballpark) so I would suggest to just live with it. The 60C/90C figures are *not* supposed to be for the surface of the bed. They're meant to reflect the temperature reported by the printer. That said, 90C is a bit low for printing ABS (but the bed/power supply on your printer might not be powerful enough to get any higher).
> 3 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, heated-bed, repetier
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thread-1526 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1526 | Sanguinololu 1.3a fan connection | 2016-07-19T13:45:51.487 | # Question
Title: Sanguinololu 1.3a fan connection
Can anyone tell me where to connect a cooling fan on the Sanguinololu v1.3a board? A few of the information pages mention three PWM outputs: Extruder, bed heater and fan, but none of the wiring diagrams that I can find, actually show the connections for the fan.
# Answer
It appears that there isn't an "out-of-the-box" solution to your request, but luck is with you. Someone with your board and objective has posted what appears to be a reasonable modification:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Add-a-Cooling-Fan-to-your-Rep-Rap-Sanguinololu/
> 4 votes
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Tags: cooling, fans
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thread-1511 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1511 | Irregular 3D printed part | 2016-07-15T19:49:40.867 | # Question
Title: Irregular 3D printed part
I tried printing from an STL file on the *QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01 Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I*. They recommend using the MakerBot software with the *Replicator(Dual)* profile. The 3D print that I tried is messed up.
The material used is **PLA**.
Could you help me determine the cause? The following pictures give more details: (*All settings which are not shown are Makerware default settings*)
**The 3D model**
**The printed sample**
**The Settings**
# Answer
> 8 votes
Your print isn't cooling fast enough. With small, thin prints like this, PLA needs a fair bit of airflow to solidify before the next layer goes down. Your printer doesn't appear to have a proper print-cooling fan, so I have two suggestions:
* Print two or even three of the part at the same time, spaced a fair distance apart on the build plate. This will give each of them time to cool.
* Point a box fan into the front of the printer to get good airflow over the print.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I agree with RyanCarlyle on this:
> Your print isn't cooling fast enough.
Please regard this answer of mine that covers a few options to help with the issue you're encountering. Pay particular attention to the *layer times*, and *active cooling*.
The essential take-away from my answer <sup>(linked above)</sup> is this:
* **Increase Layer Times**. Increasing **Minimum Layer Duration** <sub>(Device Settings -\> Minimum Layer Duration)</sub> will provide the material with more time to naturally cool down closer to its environment's temperature. What this does is ensure that the latest layer is ***mostly*** solid before the machine begins printing the next molten layer. If you don't let the previous layer of plastic solidify enough, then plastic gets pushed/pulled around when the machine moves, adding more plastic; thus resulting in the issue you see in your images. The caveat with this approach is the obvious impact on the overall runtime of your print and should ideally be done more or less as a last resort.
* **Active Cooling**. Active cooling is typically done using an additional fan, often times mounted directly in front of the extruder. The act of active cooling provides a quicker and more direct means of cooling the printed plastic. However, depending on machine design, you may see more variability on other places such as dependability in extrusion temperatures. This can be more detrimental with cheaper spools of PLA and especially poorly designed machines that can't properly maintain extruder temperatures. Active cooling is, however, very common and seems to work for the majority of 3D printer enthusiasts and doesn't impede on runtime.
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Tags: pla, print-quality, makerbot, makerware
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thread-1528 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1528 | How to calculate the approximate volume of material used in 3d print? | 2016-07-20T08:12:55.760 | # Question
Title: How to calculate the approximate volume of material used in 3d print?
Is there a reasonable way of approximating the volume of material used for 3D print by knowing only the STL file volume and infill percentage?
Or what is the formula for calculating the exact volume and which parameters can be fixed to reasonable values?
Can this be done easily using Slic3r or CuraEngine in command line?
**Note:** Supposedly 3Dhubs use Cura\[\*\] software to calculate the print volume.
Any help is appreciated.
\[\*\] www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/calculate-print-volume
# Answer
> 6 votes
Possible way to calculate the volume of *material used* is to multiply the filament length (calculated by CURA after slicing and displayed in lower right corner) and surface of filament tip.
**Volume = Filament\_length * ( Filament\_diameter / 2 )^2 * PI**
Of course do not forget to convert all values to the same order of magnitude (e.g. cm³).
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Tags: slicing, slic3r
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thread-1503 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1503 | How to utilize/calibrate print fans for PLA? | 2016-07-12T08:08:41.043 | # Question
Title: How to utilize/calibrate print fans for PLA?
At the moment, I am thinking about print fans that cool the plastic when printing. I am not asking about the design of the fanducts, which might be a whole book on its own. I would like to know how to find out the best application of print cooling for a given PLA filament, - that is fan speeds and setup in a slicer of your choice (to learn what the different options are).
# Answer
> 9 votes
Everybody's combination of fan hardware and print settings is different. Unless someone else has the exact same printer and slicer profiles as you, there's no way to really say anything like "use X% for PLA" or whatever. For practical purposes, you just empirically figure it out with test prints based on a few simple rules of thumb:
* **Use lots of cooling for PLA, moderate cooling for PETG, and minimal cooling for ABS.** (Note that sometimes ABS does benefit from gentle airflow, and PLA shouldn't necessarily always just be blasted at max power.)
* **Use less cooling on big prints where each layer takes a long time, more cooling on small prints where each layer is very quick.**
* Axial / box fan? You'll probably want to run it at full power. Radial / squirrel cage blower? You may want to run lower power.
* **Overhangs curling up or sagging? More airflow may be needed.** (Lower layer heights also help enormously.)
* **Hot end temp sagging when the fan kicks on? Try less airflow.** (Or insulate your hot block better.)
* **Weak layer bonding? Try less airflow.** (Or raise your hot end temp.)
* **Small, fast prints getting mushy or corners "pulling in"? You need more airflow.** (Or lower heatbed temps.)
* **Print warping / corners lifting off the bed? Try less airflow, particularly on the lowest few layers.** (Or higher heatbed temps, or a better adhesion layer, or less nozzle/bed gap for the first layer, or any other approach.)
* **Fan too noisy? Try less airflow.** (Or get a better fan.)
* **Filament stringing during travel moves? Try less airflow pointed directly at the nozzle.** (Or tune your retraction settings better, or get the moisture out of your filament, or lower hot end temp.)
# Answer
> 4 votes
I use side-wind to cool down model as simple as possible. It's just a 12cm in diam fan which is driven from arduino (the same contacts as the fan next to the nozzle). No duct, no other stuff. The only thing I consider in terms of making things better is to set up 2 fans which could coll down model from both sides.
The issue is that when model is more complex then cool air is not reaching out oll these crannies and then on some corners I see the difference. Because of this issue I have to orient model facing to the fan in the way which will decrease such effect and I'm usually happy with results. If you are able to imagine how the airflow behaves then you can achieve perfection :)
Of course fan is driven but to be honest I usually use 100% of its blowing power except with first layer which I usually don't blow at all.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I use PLA and both my fans stopped working. I am not techy and couldn't figure out how to fix them so I set up a house fan that blew directly at the motor keeping it cool and it works as good if not better than the fans that came with the 3d printer. You cannot let your motors over heat because your filament will get curled up insize the nozzle.So try that before buying 3d printer fans.
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Tags: print-quality, heat-management, print-fan
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thread-1433 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1433 | Can I use a metal filament on M3D Micro (or Pro)? | 2016-06-25T01:01:52.467 | # Question
Title: Can I use a metal filament on M3D Micro (or Pro)?
Can I use a metal filament such as Copper, Zinc Alloy, Silver filaments on M3D Micro? *The Pro hasn't come out yet but I assume it would if the Micro can since the Pro is suppose to be the improvement edition.*
An example of a metal filament that I found is this Silver PLA 1.75mm Filament. Here's one for Cooper PLA 1.75mm Filament.
I would like to make small sculptures or bracelet beads/charms, and whatever else I could think of making using metal. And, I'm asking because I'm new to 3d printing, I want to learn how to work with a 3d printer and M3D is very affordable for me. *So I'm making sure before I buy*. Note that I've emailed M3D twice and I didn't get any reply.
If not M3D, can any other 3D Printer comparable to M3D do this? The MBot Mini, maybe?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Most 3D printers that use non-proprietary filament *can* print exotic filaments, such as the ones you mention. One thing to be aware of, though, is that some of these filaments wear down the nozzle far more quickly than ordinary PLA, and therefore should be used with reinforced nozzles (unless you have extra nozzles to spare). Carbon fibre and metallic filaments are generally known to increase nozzle wear, while softer alloys such as wood and bamboo generally are less abrasive.
A quick google search reveals that many people have used non-proprietary filament on the M3D Micro successfully, but be aware that using such filaments is not covered by your warranty. If you are going to use abrasive filaments with your Micro, I would check that M3D allows you to replace the nozzle first.
# Answer
> 0 votes
It is my understanding that the metals are so fine and mixed in with other ingredients that you cannot tell that there is metal at all. But looks like its 100% metals.
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Tags: print-material, filled-pla
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thread-1535 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1535 | Monoprice Select Mini - Detached Filament Feeder fitting | 2016-07-21T17:22:27.533 | # Question
Title: Monoprice Select Mini - Detached Filament Feeder fitting
The $200 Monoprice Select is inexpensive but also cheap, so experiences I've seen appear to involve lots of repairs. In spite of that, I've bought one, as I'm able to fix things (sometimes) and the first few prints have been pretty good quality. ( I hear this unit is also sold as a Wanhao I3 )
First repair was that the control knob only worked in one direction (fix: bad encoder-PCB connector cable. Repaired)
Upon trying to change filament, the feeder fitting that enters the hot-end heatsink has come off. This fitting has a thread, but strangely the heatsink does not seem to. As I tried to unscrew it, to check for a feed blockage, it just let go, and I see no part that could have held it in place. (See pic)
I'm guessing that it was just epoxy-glued to the heatsink. Sounds kludgy but possible. Does anyone know?
Can any other owner verify how theirs is attached?
\[ Also, posted as a caution for someone else who tries to do this. :( \]
Thanks in advance.
# Answer
> 7 votes
Solution - there is a set-screw and a square nut in that T-slot which holds the feeder fitting in place on the heat sink.
One may well think (as I did) that the fitting is threaded into the heatsink, since it does have a big hex-head for a wrench. A small turn an the set screw lets go, the nut sliding down the slot with it. Thus when you inspect it, you don't realize they are involved 'cuz they aren't around.
Simply slide back up and you're in business.
Mystery solved - thx to Mark on Twitter. :)
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Tags: monoprice-select-mini, repair
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thread-1536 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1536 | What does "Uses Mains Voltage" mean on this 200*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad? | 2016-07-21T19:07:07.477 | # Question
Title: What does "Uses Mains Voltage" mean on this 200*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad?
I keep thinking it means that I can plug it directly into my power supply instead of running it though my RAMPs 1.4; is that correct?
Here is the link to it, 200\*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad.
# Answer
"Mains voltage" is the alternating current provided by your wall outlets (eg 120v in USA). In order to use a mains voltage heatbed in a 3d printer, you will need to wire up your controller to switch an AC SSR. That way, your low-voltage-DC RAMPS board can control AC current.
If you plug a heatbed directly into a power supply, it will never stop heating, and may burn itself up or even cause a fire. Don't do that.
Because mains voltage has enough voltage to kill you, it should only be used for STATIONARY components, such as the PSU supply wiring and Delta heatbeds. With moving beds, particularly Mendel/i3 style Y-beds, wire fatigue and rubbing can expose the electrical conductors and create a serious safety hazard.
200x200mm is a very reasonable size for a DC bed heater, so there's really no good reason to use an AC heater here. It's more complex and less safe. I recommend getting a different heater.
> 4 votes
# Answer
**\[edit\]** I just noticed you've mentioned "mains voltage"
**DON'T DO THAT**
If there is 12V on your heatbed and your power supply gives 12 V then you can do it but there will be no control over your heating procedure.
How does it work?
RAMPS is connected to Arduino and then through Arduino to your computer. So applications can say to Arduino - hey, heat it up up to 70°C. So Arduino sends this command to RAMPS and RAMPS is switching on heating, meantime it measures temperature and sends this measurement to Arduino so it knows if your heatbed is already at 70°C or not. Having that knowledge Arduino can decide to still heat it up or rather switch the power of the heatbed off.
If you connect your heatbed directly to your power supply then all of the above controlling sequence will not take place.
Imagine to connect your lightbulb directly to the wall plug. You can do it but then you will not have any chance to switch it on or off. Right? ;)
**So in my opinion - don't do that - don't connect your heatbed directly to your power supply.**
> 4 votes
# Answer
The heater pad described in your link is designed for 12 VDC or 24 VDC. Therefore, the term Mains Voltage in the description is misleading and probably wrong. Read the voltage and power requirements again and it appears that the heater pad can be connected directly to the RAMPS 1.4 without an external relay or SSR.
> 3 votes
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Tags: heated-bed
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thread-1546 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1546 | Using Kinect 360 as 3D Scanner | 2016-07-23T02:32:45.660 | # Question
Title: Using Kinect 360 as 3D Scanner
I would like to use my old Xbox 360 Kinect as a scanner for 3D modeling and (hopefully) printing a few busts of friends/family members; however, my efforts have failed in each direction that I have taken. Has anyone had success with this, and if so, how do I fix the issues that I am facing?
What I have done so far and the problems that I have had:
1. I have purchased a cable to supply 12V to the Kinect while also allowing USB to a PC.
2. I have installed the Kinect SDK as well as the Kinect Developers Toolkit on my Windows 10 Ultrabook.
3. I installed the Microsoft "3D Scan" app and the "Kinect Readiness" app (not the name, unsure of it at this point) provided by Microsoft.
\**Issue: \** Neither Microsoft app detects the Kinect when cable is plugged in. The Kinect's light slowly flashes green. Also, my cursor freezes when the Kinect is plugged in.
4. I checked the Hardware profiles and found a notification that I do not have the drivers for the Kinect motor and that no suitable drivers could be found. However, no other details about the Kinect showed up.
5. I uninstalled the SDK and developer toolkits and installed v1.7, ran them in compatibility mode (Windows 8) and same issues arose.
6. I then began looking into using a different program, found ReconstructMe. This too failed to detect the Kinect even when it was manually selected as the scanner.
Any ideas? I also have a Linux Mint laptop that I will happily use for these efforts if I knew what software to capture the 3D scan with. It seems that there are several driver options out there, just unsure of what to use besides that. It seems that Blender can be used for some motion capture with Kinect; however, I am unsure of how this relates to my goals.
# Answer
I tried the same setting old kinect (but for PC - actually with power supply and usb-cable) plug to my surface windows10.
After some troubles, it works now ;-)
The mentioned MS 3D scan and kinect readiness wont work. It is supposed for the new kinect2 model, because of the new driver. Best you deinstall both. Even the drivers and SDKs.
You need Kinect for Windows v1.8 for the old kinect. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=40278
RecFusion is a software for using a single or multiple depth cams for getting 3d models. It works quite good with my kinect. It costs 99euros. http://recfusion.net/index.php/en/download
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, scanning
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thread-1515 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1515 | How to keep Z-axis motor from slipping when powered down | 2016-07-16T16:18:53.010 | # Question
Title: How to keep Z-axis motor from slipping when powered down
Because of the weight of my Z-axis and the relative ease of its motion, when the Z-axis motor is powered down the bed has a tendency to slip and fall down.
Obviously leaving the motor powered solves this problem, but that is not ideal.
I am looking for some kind of solution that passively stops the Z-axis motor from slipping; some kind of brake or clutch. Ideally I'm looking for something that I can add onto my current motors and that I could print myself. Commercial solutions (preferably ones that could be replicated with a 3D printer) would also make valid answers.
# Answer
> 5 votes
The simple way to do this is to use a self-locking screw pitch. Pretty much any single-start thread using a sliding nut cannot be back-driven so the load will not fall. Normal 8x8 trapezoidal thread screws will easily back-drive because of the steep pitch.
Likewise, a worm drive between the motor and Z stage will hold the load. You would want to switch from screws to belts for the main motion stage in that case though, to avoid having too much total gear reduction.
Both of these solutions will limit your maximum Z speed, of course. But they're simple and reliable. Clutches and brakes add a lot of complexity and must be actuated somehow. Designers who want the load to stay suspended almost always simply use single-start screws.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The first, the simplest and the chippest solution (as described by Ryan Carlyle) is to use self locking screw - no doubt.
But I understand you already have your printer. Changing screw (thread rod) is a bit complicated I suppose. As it also needs to change "nuts" and change control settings and so on and so on. So in my opinion, in your case, it's much simpler to change motor to one with break or at least the one with permanent magnets which would hold some torque to support your bed.
Another solution which would also not require to exchange your existing parts is to use kinda ratcher driven by solenoid which would work as a break when deenergized. Where to install it, how to ensure it will hold your bed or prevent your threded rod from rotating is another issue but all options I suggest doesn't need to destroy your existing construction. They all work as additional part.
If you would be so kind and reveal some photos of your design, it would simplify to find proper application of solenoid break.
# Answer
> 2 votes
It should be possible for you to add a counterweight. Pulley at the top, and a string / wire / etc up from the build platform, over the pulley, and back down to a hanging weight. You'll probably want two, one on each side.
This won't directly prevent the motor from slipping - but it will lessen the amount of force trying to make the motor slip.
Note that it will decrease the maximum z-axis acceleration downwards, but will increase the maximum z-axis acceleration upwards. Unfortunately, downwards is the direction that matters for a print.
Also, you could try a circuit to short out the motor when the unit is powered off. The simplest thing would probably be a relay. Note that this could cause issues if the circuit fails in shorted position unless it also disengages the controller input. (This may not be enough to *prevent* movement, however, just slow it.)
# Answer
> 0 votes
If your stepper motors have shafts protruding from both ends then it may be possible to simply 3d print a fixture that allows a thumb screw to be tightened and clamp down on the unused part of the shaft.
This would however be a very manual approach and would require you to be mindful that the screw must always be disengaged just after motors are powered on..
---
Tags: z-axis, stepper
--- |
thread-1555 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1555 | Access Temperature sensor data of 3D printer via Serial connection | 2016-07-24T21:40:34.267 | # Question
Title: Access Temperature sensor data of 3D printer via Serial connection
I want to access the bed and nozzle temperature sensor data of a 3D printer via serial connection. Could someone please guide me in the right direction?
Edit: Response from printer:
```
Connecting to printer...
Connection response from printer:
6R7�P)��h>L�JO� � ��V�\��`�r��T �� SK�<ʪ� �>�Vw^$���|���R n�I, o�!����H>�
mx�}M#
�LYԣPh���^@ ��rp � TP�j�~1�� V6 6 � f� 6�k#���&�H".��k K2���ek�(��&��^K�k2����Ul�(� ���~N�ʈ*.�>Z��k#d$�����(� ��
��(� ��� v��
���
Asking for temperatures (M105)...
Temperature response from printer:
^CTraceback (most recent call last):
File "printer_files/serialaccess.py", line 15, in <module>
response = ser_printer.readline()
File "/usr/lib/python2.7/dist-packages/serial/serialposix.py", line 446, in read
ready,_,_ = select.select([self.fd],[],[], self._timeout)
KeyboardInterrupt
```
After the code asks the printer for temperature values, there is no output on the terminal anymore. I waited for a while and then killed it using control+c. It is clear that the printer is responding to the connection response but I am not sure why it is not returning the temperature values.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Assuming your printer accepts conventional G-code flavor, extruder and bed temperature can be retrieved by sending `M105` through the serial port. The printer will respond with `ok T:XXX.X B:XXX.X` where `T` is the nozzle temperature and `B` is the bed temperature.
You can read more about the specific G-code in the RepRap wiki.
EDIT: I am editing the answer to include information for connecting to the printer using a simple python script.
The following script, first opens a serial connection to the printer. For Marlin firmware, when you first connect to the printer, it needs some time to initialize and respond back. That is why some delay is needed before reading the response. After printing the response, the script sends the `M105` command, waits for 100ms, then reads the response of the serial buffer and prints it on the screen.
Note `/dev/ttyUSB0` is the serial port name and in your case it may be different. Also `250000` is the baud rate of the connection; `250000` is the default value of my printer so you need to replace this with the baud rate that your printer uses.
```
import serial
import time
ser_printer = serial.Serial('/dev/ttyUSB0', 250000)
print "Connecting to printer..."
time.sleep(30) # Allow time for response
buffer_bytes = ser_printer.inWaiting()
response = ser_printer.read(buffer_bytes) # Read data in the buffer
print "Connection response from printer:"
print response
print "Asking for temperatures (M105)..."
ser_printer.write('M105\n')
time.sleep(0.1) # Allow time for response
print "Temperature response from printer:"
response = ser_printer.readline()
print response
```
---
Tags: extruder, heated-bed, nozzle
--- |
thread-1552 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1552 | Looking for a material so I can make ABS parts with rubber grips and feet | 2016-07-24T03:49:04.923 | # Question
Title: Looking for a material so I can make ABS parts with rubber grips and feet
Looking for something that offers a lot of friction in contact with human skin or when sitting on the surface of a table.
I was curious if any of the rubber/soft materials would be compatible with ABS so I could print them together using a dual-head setup?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Ninjaflex dual-extrudes great with ABS. I've done a fair amount of NF/ABS dualstrusion. Frankly, any TPU will probably work, since molten polyurethane sticks to practically anything.
The main challenge is ooze control since TPUs tend to ooze a lot. You're going to want to use a printing temp on the low end of the range for the flexible filament, and use some sort of wiper wall structure.
Another issue you might run into is re-priming the flexible filament after an extended idle time. It helps to use a large purge structure to ensure the nozzle gets re-primed fully. Don't use an excessively large toolchange retraction distance -- this will make it more likely that the flexible filament jams during reprime.
The best way to accomplish the above will depend on your slicer. Simplify3D is a good choice since it has good dualstrusion wiper and purge functions. Other slicers can be made to work as well.
---
Tags: abs, dual-nozzle
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thread-1562 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1562 | Do I have to buy all new components if I were to get a RAMPS 1.4 that supports 24 V power? | 2016-07-26T20:08:08.337 | # Question
Title: Do I have to buy all new components if I were to get a RAMPS 1.4 that supports 24 V power?
Ryan Carlyle seems to keep suggesting in my questions here, that using a 24 V power supply is safer than using a 12 V one.
Early on, I ordered the wrong power supply, obtaining a 24 V one instead of a 12 V; I found that it was incompatible with my RAMPs 1.4 board... unless of course you pull off all the components and replacement with 24 V compatible ones.
Now granted my board needs to be replaced if I am to use such a power supply, but are there any other components that need to be replaced if I'm going to use 24 V power, or am I safe with what I am using?
# Answer
> 3 votes
You need all components that are supplied voltage by the RAMPS board to be able to deal with a 24V input. Some of your parts are most likely compatible, as the stepper drivers. Others get the 5V from the Arduino, as the endstops. Some will most likely need replacement, as
* the Hotend heater cartridge. It will need to be exchanged. You can easily buy those in 12V and 24V versions and a 12V version should not get 24V.
* the fans. Chances here are about as close to 100% as it gets that they need to be replaced. They are directly connected to the 12V, some are PWM regulated but that doesn't change that they need to be replaced with proper 24V fans.
* the heated bed. Since it gets direct power from the board you cannot use your old 12V bed. This is unless you had your old bed switched by a solid state relay (SSR) before. Then you'd have to check the SSR's switching signal tolerances.
* anything else you might have hooked up to your power supply directly (lights for example) should be checked for input tolerance.
---
Tags: switching-power-supply, vitamins
--- |
thread-1559 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1559 | Are 3D printers efficient for printing a detailed iris to bypass iris identification system? | 2016-07-26T11:56:13.410 | # Question
Title: Are 3D printers efficient for printing a detailed iris to bypass iris identification system?
A 3D printer can either print layer by layer or carve an object layer by layer to obtain an object. I heard somewhere that 3D printing technology isn't that accurate for printing minute details like fingerprints and iris patterns. Printing an iris pattern using a 3D printer would be a nice test to find this out. Can it print the iris pattern accurately? If not, then to what extent would be the accuracy of the 3D printed model of iris? Many commercial iris scanners can be easily fooled by high quality images of iris. Can a 3D printer print the these minute iris patterns with as much detail?
# Answer
I take lectures in university and was asked to read a review paper on 3D printed organs by *Anthony Atala* (the most famous paper in printed organs research). The paper discussed about using several techniques to print the tissue we need at functional resolution. The review also cites detailed procedures to 3D print lung and skin tissues.
Coming back to your question, we have reached a point in time where we can scan a real Iris and print them! Yes. And people use this technique called self assembly to achieve this (Other design approaches like Biomimicry and MiniTissue assembly is also being used right now). To do this we first extract cells from the donor. Or We do a functional high res scan of the extracted cell/part that we want to replicate. This is done via FMT-CT-Fluorescence Imaging, etc. And we cultivate the cells in bio incubators (we can also print cells btw - If the exact environment and operational conditions are maintained, we can print cell-replicas that will later self assemble to form the Iris with the same resolution and functional properties as that of the real one). The cultivated/printed cell is used as the tissue forming material. Forming is done by the cells themselves and is thus christened Self assembly.
Although this may sound futuristic, Autonomous Self Assembly is something that's already being done in Labs! The method works by studying embryonic organ development. For instance, Early stage cellular components of a developing tissue makes their own ECM. Like mentioned before, if we use proper signalling, and environmental manipulation, we can create autonomous organization and patterning to make something we want. Advantage of this method is that we can work without scaffolds. This method relies on cell as primary driver of histogenesis. Knowledge of how an embryo grows into tissue (embroyo tissue genesis and organogenesis) is applied to achieve "real" cell dimensions/properties.
I would recommend you to read the paper for detailed information. The method I mentioned in this post is only **one** among three other methods that are being used currently in this domain.
So yeah. My answer is yes. You can print an Iris and fool the system.
-- Updates
* S. V. Murphy and A. Atala, “3D bioprinting of tissues and organs,” Nature Biotechnology, vol. 32, no. 8, pp. 773–785, Aug. 2014. DOI: 10.1038/nbt.2958
* Withdrew my claim "any given resolution"
* Details of the process
> 3 votes
---
Tags: efficiency
--- |
thread-1571 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1571 | Prusa HE3D Xi3 missing step on x and y axis | 2016-07-29T12:31:02.570 | # Question
Title: Prusa HE3D Xi3 missing step on x and y axis
I am using Prusa HE3D Xi3. While printing after 5 or 6 layers it misses the step on x and y axis.
Can anybody explain what is the reason?
# Answer
> 0 votes
There's a possibility that your power supply lags after a while, the quality of power supplies on cheaper 3D printers are sometimes an issue.
There's also a possible that the stepper motor drivers aren't putting out enough power. This can be adjusted by turning the trimmer on the driver, check the printer documentation for instructions on how to do that.
---
Tags: prusa-i3
--- |
thread-369 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/369 | How to edit Cura profile in Octoprint? | 2016-01-21T23:09:21.300 | # Question
Title: How to edit Cura profile in Octoprint?
In Cura, I can edit my .ini profile settings as needed, for example, when I change filament or models. It's annoying to have to edit the profile on another computer and update it on my Pi just to change the infill, etc. I've searched http://plugins.octoprint.org/ and can't find any plugins that do this.
# Answer
> 6 votes
As far as I know, this is currently not possible.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There is an import function. https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Plugin:-Cura
Btw. now in Cura 2.1 you'll also need to reimport your .ini.
Regards :)
# Answer
> 2 votes
You can manually edit the .profile by using an SSH terminal program (e.g putty) to log into your Pi
Then cd ./octoprint/slicingProfiles
ls to see folders (on mine I see cura) cd cura ls to see profile files e.g fred.profile sudo nano fred.profile
move down to where you can see the slicing parameters and edit away
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, octoprint
--- |
thread-1579 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1579 | Cloning the Marlin git repo while keeping my configuration.h settings? | 2016-07-31T19:53:18.623 | # Question
Title: Cloning the Marlin git repo while keeping my configuration.h settings?
I cloned the Marlin repository and changed all my settings in `configuration.h` to match my old settings. Now when the RC branch gets updated, is there a way to upstream pull the changes without losing my settings?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Based on this answer, you need the following procedure:
1. Stash your local changes using `git stash`
2. Pull from remote repository using `git pull`
3. Merge your stashed configuration file using `git stash pop`
Of course, if there are changes in the `configuration.h` file on the remote repository and cause conflicts, you will need to resolve them, but it should be straight forward.
---
Tags: marlin, reprap
--- |
thread-1581 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1581 | When to use Wave Bonding vs Raft on a 3D print? | 2016-08-02T17:30:44.143 | # Question
Title: When to use Wave Bonding vs Raft on a 3D print?
I use a Micro3D printer, running on OctoPi (yay!) (although this question should be relevant to any 3D printer that offers these features) and have options for raft and wave bonding.
Are there best case scenarios for when it is appropriate to use (or *not* use) either? Can/should they ever both be used at the same time?
# Answer
After additional research, it seems that using both at the same time is ill-advised (more like pointless).
Wave bonding is best suited for larger prints, primarily to prevent warping of the initial layer.
Rafts appear to be recommended regardless, other than for advanced users.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: rafts
--- |
thread-1588 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1588 | Wanhao i3 PLUS restarts when connecting USB | 2016-08-03T21:47:25.763 | # Question
Title: Wanhao i3 PLUS restarts when connecting USB
I just received my Wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS. Everything prints and functions fine via SD card and the display but when connecting to my Mac computer the printer seems to restart.
* Baud Rate: 115200
* Serial Port: `/dev/tty.wchusbserial1420`
Any ideas what it could be?
# Answer
I don't know that printer. But Arduino has a feature that a USB connection causes a reset. The Idea is that this helps when doing software update as the Arduino Boot loader will be active for one second after that reset.
This can be disabled, but needs hardware modification.
> 3 votes
# Answer
That is normal on most printers. They restart if you connect.
As you have an SD card slot I would recommend using it rather than your computer. If your connected computer goes to sleep it would also reset the connection after wakeup.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: arduino-mega-2650, wanhao
--- |
thread-1043 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1043 | Choose infill percentage | 2016-04-24T14:33:10.113 | # Question
Title: Choose infill percentage
Since I'm running a 3D printing facility of an engineering school, students are always wondering how much infill percentage affects the stiffness of the part. I know that it is impossible to get a numerical solution for this question, but maybe there is an option to simulate in software an already sliced model. I haven't seen in any slicer an option to export as .stl or .step or any other format which can be accepted by simulation software. Has anyone seen or thought about something similar?
# Answer
I don't believe that slicing engines create any sort of solid model that would be useful for CAD simulation. When a slicing engine slices a 3D model, it's goal is to spit out the preferred machine paths in G-Code (of some kind). However, I've read a few articles, done some tests, and heard through the grape vine that anywhere between 10%-35% is good enough for most applications. I once watched a webinar for understanding the new MakerWare interface that explained how they chose such settings. Although I can't find the clip directly, here is the page for all of MakerBot's webinars. I think this webinar was the one I watched explaining a little bit about preferred infill percentages.
From experience, anything over 35% doesn't yield much more strength from infill side of things. Beyond 35% and you're going to want to reconsider how you're orienting the print when you print it and what you're printing to utilize the grain structure for proper strength.
However, infill percentage/patterns are not the only variable for creating strong parts. Infill is really just a way to save time and material. Here are some other ways to potentially increase strength:
* Increase your shell. Shell is the number of profile patterns per layer. Typically (in FDM/FFF), each shell is **about** the diameter of your extruder nozzle.
* Increase your floor/roof. Similar to shell, floor/roof refers to the number of layers that make up the "bottom" and "top" of the part with regard to the build plate.
* Print orientation. Pay attention to which areas of the part are susceptible to strain along the "grain" of the layers. Try to rotate your part on the build plate in a way that minimizes potential failure both in print and post-print use.
* Post process. Don't be afraid to do some post-processing to increase the strength. There are some 3D printers on the market that go as far as including Kevlar strands in the printing process to beef up their prints. However, it may be as simple as just coating the part in an epoxy with some basic finishing techniques. It's a bit more work, but it turns weak 3D printed parts into full production quality prints.
**Update:** Based on some of the comments, it sounds like your best bet might be to find a custom application that can either convert the g-code file into a solid model (try CAM software?), or create a plugin for your CAD software (I know Unigraphics NX and Solidworks allow for this) and essentially recreate your own slicing engine that takes your solid model and generates the same infill pattern dynamically inside.
Perhaps look into the works of Simlab or similar which has a lot of 3D software plugins. I'm not promoting them and I don't work for them, this is just a reference of what to look for.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Since I am not able to comment on this question yet, I thought I would provide an answer in addition to the already helpful insight provided.
If the question in general is regarding infill percentage, and the common follow-up regards part stiffness, then it should be explained that choosing infill percentage is much more than just part stiffness.
Printing out tensile bars would be a great thing to have for educational purposes. The bars should not only vary in infill percentages, but in also the various infill patterns. Depending on the type of stresses and loads applied, different patterns may be stronger at lower infill rates, for example.
Also, the infill rate should correlate to the thickness of the bottom, top, and sidewalls. This is especially important with ABS when it comes to shrinkage, warping, and delayering. In order for the part to be universally as strong as possible, as the part cools, it must shrink evenly. This is a well known factor for machinists creating molds for injection molding and casting. Otherwise, you may have unintended additional points of weaknesses arise.
Lastly, if creating tensile bars, make sure to take into account the shrinkage experienced along each axis, for each individual example. I would also suggest cutting each one open, as well as attempting to break a few of the apart (in a very crude way). This could stimulate a lot of thought when designing a part, before printing it.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Anton, I parse the G-code and build a finite element model and a thermal transient event to simulate the printing of the part, followed by a structural simulation to determine the deformation and stress state in the resulting part. This part could then be further analyzed with external loads to determine mechanical characteristics. I use ANSYS software and the element birth & death capability to activate a small volume of material per each thermal transient step. The structural sim is static but also done at the same time steps as the thermal transient.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I could think of a way. But it might require a few softwares to get everything done.
First get the CAD file. Import to magics (Materialise proprietary software) There is a function for structures, you can build your custom internal structure. So add trusses etc. Export stl. (There is one software which allows direct stl to step conversion, I think its called Instep) Or i think you could reduce mesh density and use FreeCAD to convert it back to step and run your analysis.
It would be intersting to see a report on the part. Also there is no good way of simulating a 3d printed part. Maybe the closest would be with composites.
> 1 votes
# Answer
If you're an engineering class, you may very well print out big cubes of different infils and test them.
> 0 votes
# Answer
You have to do it by eye. However you need to think about what infill you use. a triangle pattern will be very strong.
Following I never use high infill. Most of my items have a strong outer shell, IE 3 layers. Inside I will do between 7 and 14 %. If I printed a square 200mm^3 I would have no concerns standing on it.
All depends. Really though for your settings I would not thing you would really ever need more than 14%.
At a company I worked at that was testing 3d printed parts. They evaluated material by printing the same test shapes and seeing what their tolerances were. You will need to develop your own method as such.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: cad, infill, analysis
--- |
thread-1590 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1590 | Where is the auto-reset jumper on the Wanhao i3 PLUS? | 2016-08-04T00:25:13.253 | # Question
Title: Where is the auto-reset jumper on the Wanhao i3 PLUS?
I'm having some issues when connecting to the printer via USB, see Wanhao i3 PLUS restarts when connecting USB.
After some research I thought I would try to remove the `auto-reboot` jumper. Now that the i3 Plus uses a custom board instead of the standard Melzi, I'm not sure where to find it.
See pictures attached:
# Answer
The pictures don't help much, and I don't know the board. But if it is as described here, Elec Freaks Wiki - RAMPS Melzi, then you need to look for the FTDI Chip FT232. The reset is caused by the DTR Signal. There needs to be a copper trace from pin 2 to the capacitor and then to the jumper. From the jumper a trace leads to pin 4 of the Atmel ATmega.
If it is a clone, the jumper might have been "optimized away". If so, desoldering the capacitor gives the same result. Be certain to desolder the right one. If unsure keep the capacitor and solder it back in if it was the wrong one.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: electronics
--- |
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