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thread-18240 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18240 | I dried my filament because it wouldn't adhere properly but now it adheres a bit too well | 2021-10-13T23:43:55.960 | # Question
Title: I dried my filament because it wouldn't adhere properly but now it adheres a bit too well
I dried my spool of PLA this morning to solve adhesion issues and proceeded to print the model that failed due to the aforementioned issues. But when it was done and I went to remove it from the bed, it wouldn't budge; even the scraper that comes with the Ender 3 didn't help. I require immediate assistance.
# Answer
I removed the mat from the bed and popped the print off
> 4 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, pla, adhesion
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thread-18238 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18238 | Cable Chain lubrication? | 2021-10-13T19:50:43.503 | # Question
Title: Cable Chain lubrication?
I recently upgraded my Ender 3 V2 to use a Micro Swiss Direct Drive and extruder. with the layout change, comes a lot of cable management changes, *especially* to prevent the cables from getting pinched between the stepper motor and the frame at the very limits of x or z
I've started with some various cable chain things, like:
and adapted them to work for me. They're all printed in PLA, and they are a little "creaky" sometimes, or otherwise "stick" and don't freely rotate/hinge as much as I'd like.
Is there some kind of lubrication I can/should use? I tried some graphite powder spray and really all it seems to have done is make a mess and stain the links of the chain black :D
The closest thing I think I can find with some info is this Reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7d4rhi/good\_lubricants\_for\_enclosed\_pla\_gearbox/
but it's from ~4 years ago. A fair amount of the things I'm finding are contradictory, as the internet always is :D
# Answer
FDM printed chain links are inherently rough. This roughness results in friction, which directly results in squeaking, creaking, and other noise as well as uneven movement as it snags.
An injection-molded cable chain is best, and you need to have the right bending radius for the cables you use.
If you need to use printed parts, including some non-printed smooth bushings in between the printed parts is the most effective way to have smooth movement.
> 1 votes
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Tags: mechanics
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thread-18242 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18242 | Possible to get G34 auto align and IDEX with Ender 3 Pro and BTT E3 RRF? | 2021-10-14T18:45:17.930 | # Question
Title: Possible to get G34 auto align and IDEX with Ender 3 Pro and BTT E3 RRF?
Long story I'll try to bullet point to speed up so bear with me:
* I have a heavily modded Ender 3 Pro
* Relevant mods for this question: Control board swapped for BTT E3 RRF, Dual Z motor, BLTouch
* Ultimately I'd love to convert the Ender 3 pro to have IDEX, probably after I make it bigger with an Ender extender kit, but it's cool if it takes a long time
* Whether or not its easier to just build a large printer with IDEX (rather than continually changing my Ender 3) is a different question, but I just like modifying my printer. I like learning along the way
* Right when I got my BTT E3 RRF and my dual Z motor, I thought it'd be awesome to be able to do `G34` auto alignment, much like Teaching Tech describes in this video. The BTT E3 RRF has a port for a second Z-axis motor so I thought I was good
* Come to find out that (I believe) the second port on the board is actually just driven off the same driver, I don't believe it can be controlled separately (correct me if I'm wrong).
* Somewhere on the internet I read that if you get the IDEX expansion board from BTT it can do that, so before I researched further, I bought one.
* And as you can see in this video from Aurora Tech, you can do indeed do `G34` with the IDEX board.
* The problem is, it looks like in that video she actually plugs the Z motor into the slot meant for the extruder motor.
***Which brings me to my question:***
I want both. I want to be able to do `G34` but also eventually run a fully functioning IDEX. I've already bought both the BTT E3 RRF and the IDEX board.... am I out of luck? Do you need an Octopus board or something? Or is there a way to do both with the hardware I have now?
# Answer
The basic RRF board has a single Z driver which connects to two Z stepper sockets.
In order to individually drive two steppers, you need an optional stepper driver like in a dedicated Z2 stepper driver or a spare E1 driver to function as the second Z driver. The basic RRF board only has four drivers, so this board alone will not bring the functionality of individual driven Z steppers.
The extension board for support of IDEX gives access to another two stepper drivers, an X2 and a E1. Both are required for the second X-axis, so this expansion board will not give you a spare for the second Z driver.
With the boards you acquired you can therefore not have both dual individual driven Z screws and an additional X-axis with additional extruder (IDEX) using the current onboard drivers (including the breakout board). You need a board with at least 7 stepper drivers, but, if there are free pins available you could add an additional stepper manually in firmware.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bigtreetech
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thread-18247 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18247 | Printing minuscule objects | 2021-10-17T08:01:03.133 | # Question
Title: Printing minuscule objects
I am not familiar with 3D printing at all, is it possible to print tiny objects with some 3D printing technology that is available to a consumer audience? I am not talking about microscopic scale, but about say a figurine that is 4mm tall. However, the size required for the eye of the figurine, for instance, would be in the ballpark of 0.5 millimeters (500 microns) in diameter.
# Answer
> 7 votes
## Resin
Today's hobby grade resin printers are capable of amazingly tiny detail. The hole is about 1.5 mm diameter, and the pencil point in the photo below is of the same scale as the part. It was farther out of the frame and composited in to provide a better reference.
This part was constructed on request of a train aficionado desiring to have hinges for the freight cars he was building.
Details that are not holes would be more easily accomplished. Depending on the orientation of the figurine, you can get between 0.037 mm and 0.050 mm resolution. This is due to different resolutions in the x/y plane and the z-plane. If the figurine's feature was vertical, the z-resolution could be 0.050 mm but the x/y resolution would be 0.037 mm.
There's a great reference page from Chitubox describing the different technologies as well as a couple photos.
This image is of a model constructed with 0.047 mm resolution. The following image is of a model constructed at 0.100 mm resolution.
Above images from linked site.
## FDM™
Referencing the comment below, it should be noted that the above information is specific to resin printers. It is very much different when discussing filament printers. Filament printers (FDM™ or FFF) will have much coarser resolutions. It's typical to have layer thickness (z-resolution) of 0.100 mm. Every one of my FFF printers can print at that resolution.
The x/y resolution is based on the nozzle diameter. The common nozzle is 0.40 mm diameter, limiting the resolution to slightly greater than that, as the filament will bulge as it is extruded.
One can find 0.25 mm nozzles and expect approximately 0.30 mm width of deposited filament. I've read of 0.10 mm nozzles, but once you reach that level, it's time to think of resin printing.
I had attempted to print the door hinge bracket on my FFF printer, using 0.100 mm layer height on a 0.40 mm nozzle. It was a complete mess.
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Tags: resolution, scaling
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thread-7920 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7920 | Heatercartridge bolt stuck | 2019-01-08T15:28:58.513 | # Question
Title: Heatercartridge bolt stuck
After a brownout a print failed and it got the whole hotend covered in PLA. I am now in the process of replacing some parts on the hotend (one of the thermistor legs broke of) and also wanted to take the heater cartridge out. The problem is that the bolt that locks the heater cartridge is stuck and I am now afraid to strip the head.
Is there a trick to remove the bolt with the smallest probability of stripping the head? Is it better to apply heat or not? Should I soak it in Acetone or some other solvent? etc.
# Answer
# Don't Panic!
First of all, a printhead caked in PLA is usually not a death sentence, it is often a temporary setback. Let's start in steps!
## Step 1: remove the extruder
We want to work on the hotend, so we remove the extruder feed first. For direct drive, we unload it, then remove it depending on your printer, so the cooling of the hotend remains. For a Bowden, unload and, if possible, remove the Bowden tube from the cooling block. If not disconnect it from the extruder.
## Step 2: remove from the carriage
Now that we have the whole hotend assembly bared, we remove it from the carriage. Usually, it is 2 to 3 bolts, more if the cooling solution is mounted separately and has to be removed to access it.
## Step 3: remove the cool-end
If you can, remove the cooling fins - we want to have the heatbreak to hold on to.
## Step 4: Clamp it up
Take a fire-proof surface (ceramic tile!) and put down the hotend. Rig it up that it can't jump away, best with a small vise. **Don't** bend the cables!
## Step 5: Free the thermosensor
Let's start to clean! If your cartridge still works, get 12V onto the heater and let the stuff melt a little. Use pliers and a scraping tool to clean the thermistor cartridge.
As you have no heat control **only heat in short bursts** to prevent fire and destroying the cartridge too.
As an alternative and if you can't get the cartridge to work, use a hot air gun or a hot-air soldering station. A soldering iron with a broad tip also works well to scrape off the plastic with controlled heat an as a scraper to remove large chunks. If you use an external heat source, free the heater cartridge first and remove it, hoping that it is not also dead.
As soon as you can, get the thermosensor out. If you run on the heater cartridge, install a fresh Thermosensor, even into the goopy heater block, and wire it to the board to regain temperature control and use the board to provide the power.
## Step 6: Finish cleaning
I usually clean up the final stretch (and as far as I can: all steps) under board controlled heat:
Make sure that heater cartridge and thermosensor are installed well and working. Set the hotend to 170 to 180°C and do the last cleaning under the use of regulated temperatre.
## Step 7: Do steps 1 to 4 in reverse order.
Reassemble, following the steps backwards.
## Step 8: Hot Tighten!
Heat the assembled hotend to 240°C, then tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak to ensure tightness. Let cool, done.
# Alternative
## Replacement/Upgrade!
One could go down to step 3 and replace the hotend assembly (Heaterblock, Thermosensor, heatbreak, nozzle) with fresh parts and reassemble. This is much more expensive than reusing but cleaner and faster - if you need to print *now*, you might want to keep one hotend assembly on hand as spare and clean the one replaced while the machine runs.
## External heat sources
As mentioned, a hot air gun or soldering iron can provide heat to remove the plastic caking.
The soldering iron has the benefit of doubling as a scraping tool and providing localized heat, allowing to possibly free the thermosensor without unsoldering anything in it, and it won't melt the heater block.
A heat gun provides gentle, overall heating of the beater block, but needs extra care where the hot air is going - it can easily char wood and might remove the solder from the heater cartridge.
A gas torch might be used to burn off any residue on a totally stripped heater block, but it also would be able to melt and deform an aluminium heater block! Do not use it on a still assembled heater block, or it will melt any solder in the heater cartridge and destroy it.
In any case, working on a fireproof surface is mandatory!
## Chemically cleaning (for non-PLA)
PLA can be removed chemically, but the solvents are rather nasty and some take quite some time to work. Very toxic dichloromethane was used to make a solution of PLA to create thin layers used in this paper, and most other solvents the study mentions are at least equally nasty. The available working options - ethyl acetate and propylene carbonate - have high price tags associated with them. So chemically cleaning *PLA* from cheap nozzles is not an *economically* viable option. However, it is a viable option to use acetone if you have your hotend caked in *ABS*.
> 10 votes
# Answer
Acetone will not dissolve PLA, there are other nasty solvents that do that, but it is not recommended to go that way.
You could apply 12 V (if the cartridge is 12 V that is) directly. As the thermistor does not work, you cannot use the printer board. You should take caution not to heat it too far or too hot, but from your experience with your own machine you should know approximately how long it takes to heat up the hotend to working temperature. E.g. start with a minute and try to pry off the lump of plastic with pliers. If you can reach the bolt/worm screw, try heating until you are able to insert the hex key or screw driver.
This video from Josef Prusa shows exactly what you need to do what is described above. The only difference is that you need to connect the heater element directly to the power supply as your thermistor is broken. So don't leave it on too long or you will bake the filament to carbonization, which is much harder to remove. Try to cycle it on/off.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I have just gone through this with an E3D v6 Aero hot end.
Working on the hot end while hot is the best way, but using the internal heater is filled with several problems:
1. The thermister may be broken
2. The heater may be broken
3. The electronics of the heating loop (sense, decide, control heater) may be broken
4. The wires may be too short to make it easy to work on.
It is best to remove the hot end and work on it on your bench -- not inside the printer.
Someone recommended a torch. This is possible, but it is hard to control the heat with a torch. The flame may be hot enough to melt the metals.
Instead, I use a hot air gun. It gets hot enough, but the maximum temperature and the rate of heating is lower. The heat source is more diffuse.
I had an immoveable thermister set screw, which responded well to heat. When reassembling, the heater clamp screw was filled with some plastic which prevented me from clamping the heater while cold. After heating, it screwed in easily.
Don't be afraid to strip the hot end down to the basic parts. Probably you'll be doing it several times over the printer's life, and knowing how to fits together makes everything easier.
> 1 votes
# Answer
If you use a brass heating block (which is a bit heavier than aluminum), you can first use a heat gun to soften the residues to remove the cartridge/sensor.
After removing all electronics, you can use a gas torch and burn the residues off. However, the far best option would be to use a heat block made of stainless steel. I guess heat conductivity is anyway not very important on the hotend as long as the cartridge is powerful enough.
Using a torch makes cleaning very fast. In five minutes you are typically done.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I got a blob of around 5 x 8 cm out of PETG! Setting extruder temp to PETG or even a little higher. I did it all with an older soldering iron. Simply (but carefully!) go with the point into the blob and take it slowly off. With a copper 'toothbrush', I cleaned the extruder and nozzle more times.
After mostly all was down I started with the first layer test (Prusa MK3S+) That was surprisingly almost perfect. Then started to print not very high subjects like rings etc. With that several burned drops came down during printing. Use the 'toothbrush' as many times you can between the first prints!
Done without any damage to the printer as a whole!
> 0 votes
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Tags: pla, hotend
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thread-18253 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18253 | HALOT BOX makes objects with support move up | 2021-10-19T10:26:24.363 | # Question
Title: HALOT BOX makes objects with support move up
I'm trying to slice some models using the default HALOT BOX software from Creality, which comes with the Halot One resin 3D printer.
I've oriented them at 45 degrees, and am using supports. When I come to slice the models, the models all jump up a few millimetres, as seen in the below screenshot.
I thought it was just a UI bug, until the same image also appears on the printer screen, with a gap between the supports and the raft.
If I reset the position of the model, it goes back down as I would expect it to be, but when I click "slice" it moves back up again.
My settings are as follows:
How do I fix this?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Turns out I was using an old (and buggy) version of the software.
The version I was using came on the supplied USB memory stick and was version 1.9-something.
I downloaded the latest version (2.0-something) off the Creality website and now it doesn't appear to have the same problem.
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Tags: slicing, resin, creality
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thread-18259 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18259 | Material for printing electric device prototype | 2021-10-20T14:23:36.540 | # Question
Title: Material for printing electric device prototype
We are in a stage of creating a prototype of some IoT device with some electric boards and sensors. The device will be connected to the power and the boards inside might be warm a bit.
What material whould you recommended to print it? Will you recommend it to production as well? Thanks
# Answer
If you are using powered MCUs (like an ESP32) or more powerful processing (such as a Raspberry Pi), you should not allow the processor to get hot without some additional passive (heatsinks) or active (fans) cooling.
Assuming you are able to cool the devices, even a Pi should not get warmer than 60 °C. If you use PETG or ASA for your enclosure, these can both cope with the temperature as well as external UV exposure.
> 1 votes
# Answer
This highly depends on the design. With standoffs and some distance to any hot surface, pretty much **all** materials can work as an enclosure, as long as you make sure to have enough cooling capacity from airflow. This airflow can be active (fan-driven) or passive (heat-driven) and entirely based on the interior design of your enclosure.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-material, filament-choice, rapid-prototyping
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thread-18263 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18263 | Can higher quality prints be achieved by switching filiment type between printing 1" high detail miniatures and larger low detail vehicle | 2021-10-21T19:41:22.247 | # Question
Title: Can higher quality prints be achieved by switching filiment type between printing 1" high detail miniatures and larger low detail vehicle
When 3D printing model for tabletop gaming system, should the same filament type be used for to print 1" gaming pieces with curved surfaces and lots of small detail, and vehicles which are much larger but which have lots of flat surface and sharp angles?
For example, could an overall higher quality print be achieved using a specific filament types to print a custom Warhammer 40K space marine, and a different one for a Warhammer 40K rhino assault vehicle?
Replace Warhammer 40K with any comparable sized gaming system as required.
# Answer
If your objective is quality, the filament type (PLA vs ABS vs PETG vs etc.) is not as important as the slicing parameters. In filament style printers, one compensates surface quality for speed of printing.
A feature of a number of slicing programs allows one to change layer height at varying vertical locations in a model/full bed of models.
For example, a model with a number of vertical flat surfaces will benefit from faster printing if the layer height is set to 0.300 mm on a machine with a 0.40 mm nozzle. A model with organic shapes and few flat surfaces, especially those with curvature in the z-axis would benefit from a higher quality appearance when printed with 0.100 layer height.
Consider that a model may have a pedestal type of base, creating the option for a 0.300 mm layer, but as the model prints, the legs (also mostly vertical) will not be degraded overmuch by such a setting, but once reaching curved areas including the chest, shoulders, arm muscles, one would desire higher quality 0.100 mm layers.
The slicing software permits one to designate the first section to one layer height, then switch operations to the thinner height. There are usually no limits to the number of changes permitted in a model print, other than the operator's patience and tolerance for such quantities.
> 2 votes
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Tags: filament-choice
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thread-18265 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18265 | Strange Z-Axis Noise on New Ender 3 | 2021-10-22T07:12:49.073 | # Question
Title: Strange Z-Axis Noise on New Ender 3
Just assembled my Ender 3, was homing the Z Axis and Leveling the bed, etc. During which I heard this high pitched noise that the extruder makes as it travels upwards along its Z-Axis. Was hoping someone could help me diagnose the issue. Including a video showing said noise.
https://streamable.com/uw0d9e
# Answer
> 1 votes
There's a cyclic aspect to the metallic noise that would point to a fan blade rubbing somewhere. It's difficult to determine from the video if your extruder fan is running while the carriage is moving, but that would be one place to examine. Even though the power supply doesn't move with the carriage, consider to check the fan within that unit as well. Any other fans on the system should be examined.
If you don't find a fan problem, consider to disconnect the z-axis coupler and command a z-movement. The z-stepper isn't moving fast enough to generate the high pitch sound heard in the video and disconnecting the rod should eliminate misalignment concerns of that motor.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis
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thread-18267 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18267 | Print Nozzle Type vs Heat Requirement | 2021-10-22T16:40:49.357 | # Question
Title: Print Nozzle Type vs Heat Requirement
I recently went to a stainless steel nozzle for printing. What I found is it required significantly more heat to print PLA than I was used to. I'm not sure if the PLA itself (a brand I'd never used before) was to blame or if the nozzle properties was causing the needed increase. By an increase in heat needed, I'm used to printing PLA in the 190 °C (+/-5 °C). What I'm using right now to prevent stringing and to get good layer adhesion, I'm having to print at 220 °C.
My question is, does nozzle material typically affect the amount of heat needed to print or should we expect heat shouldn't need to be changed? If the nozzle material does affect it, is there any "rules of thumb" to go by on what to expect?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Thermal conductivity is the factor to consider in this question. Cost and wear play a part in determining nozzle material selection as well.
According to The Engineering Toolbox, stainless steel has a conductivity (k) between 14.3 and 14.4 with other stainless steel alloys not showing better than 20. Brass (most common nozzle material) lists between 61 and 121, substantially higher.
Of course, one notes the caution with abrasive filament that a brass nozzle will wear. PrintedSolid has a great photo of a worn brass nozzle sliced in half, against a steel version:
If one considers that a slower heat transfer gives the device (nozzle) more time to radiate heat to the environment than to pass it along to the filament, the higher temperature makes sense.
Some gemstones have a high thermal conductivity. There are ruby and sapphire nozzles available, providing greater wear resistance without the loss of thermal conductivity.
Regarding a rule of thumb? I have not seen concrete references to what factor to use with temperature increases.
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Tags: nozzle, heat-management
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thread-18252 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18252 | Resin layer for adhesion: how should I do it? | 2021-10-19T06:56:32.950 | # Question
Title: Resin layer for adhesion: how should I do it?
**Backstory:** Like quite a lot of people here, I'm having problems with parts adhering to the build plate of a resin printer. I've tried everything that I can think of: cleaning & re-sanding the buildplate at 80 grit, levelling the plate with and without a sheet of paper between the plate and LCD, warm resin, and silicone spray on the FEP.
---
In the answer to this question, Michael Wooten says:
> **PRO TIP to improve bed adhesion**: apply a thin layer of resin to the build platform before you start to print. I have not any failed prints after I started coating the plate with resin.
I was wondering if there was any clarification on this layer of resin:
* Should it be cured, partially cured, or left alone?
* How thick should it be?
Also, is there any known methodology? If I paint some resin onto the build plate and cure with a UV lamp, I worry that the layer won't be particularly flat. I thought about using the "cleaning" function on the printer to shine UV light through, but it would also cure area between the edge of the build plate and the tank.
Any tips on this exact method of making prints stick to the plate would be greatly appreciated!
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**Update:**
I tried again, and it still didn't work.
I left a thin film of resin on the build plate from the previous failed print, and cured it for a minute or two until it felt tacky. The resin was still warm from last print, so I ran again (after removing the failed pancakes of course) and after a few hours I could see that nothing had printed this time either. The irritating bit is that the pancakes slide off the FEP pretty easily!
# Answer
The whole reason to pre-coat the plate with **liquid** resin is to ensure, that no air bubbles are left under it and prevent contact of the plate to the resin.
A layer of cured resin throws off your 0.
> 2 votes
# Answer
According to Uncle Jessy (see Youtube channel), you simply need to pour some liquid resin over the build plate and then leave it for a couple of minutes for the worst to drip off. No
He also recommends that the resin should be kept at a warm room temperature and that the bottle be thoroughly shaken before pouring it onto the build plate or into the resin vat.
He also recommends that resin should not be left to sit in the vat for more than a couple of days as it can settle and separate.
> 1 votes
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Tags: adhesion, resin, creality
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thread-8020 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8020 | How to fix evenly spaced vertical print pattern | 2019-01-20T11:21:40.933 | # Question
Title: How to fix evenly spaced vertical print pattern
* These lines exist on all prints, PLA, ABS.
* They're 0.8 mm apart \[20T 2GT pulley, 1.8°/step motor = 1 line/4 full-steps\]
* Start to disappear above 75 mm/s but will still appear on slower axis when printing diagonal lines or curves
* Custom built frame, cross bar (Ultimaker style) using linear rails
* dual-motor (4 total on X-Y) + separate driver (1 motor/driver)
* Running Smoothieware on Smoothieboard 5X \[A5984 drivers, 32 microstep\]
Tried all these with no improvement:
**TL;DR problem is somewhere between drivers and motors**
* Switched to 6.625:1 geared extruder
* Tried parallel, series, single coil on the 8 wires motor and 2 other different motors
* Enable fast decay mode on A5984
* Motor current from 0.5 A to 1.8 A
* PLA temp from 170~200 °C
* Acceleration as low as 100 mm/s2
* \**Changed 20T to 16T pulleys. The pattern scaled down proportional to the change in tooth count. Ruled out mechanical issues.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The fact that these are all perfectly spaced, and don't mirror the edges of irregular prints, makes me think it's definitely not ghosting. That said, I can't see the Y direction on either print, just the X direction, so this all assumes it's only happening in one direction. One thing to think about: Your motors have typically 2 opposing coils, and they get activated by taking 4 steps: (North, off, South): N/o o/N S/o o/S If these are spaced out exactly 4 steps apart, that would imply that one of your coils is either underpowered or overpowered on the motor controlling that direction's movement. That would lead to your motor torque dipping and increasing, leading to slightly uneven print speed. This is 100% speculative and might be a goose chase since you've got 4 X/Y motors and it seems to happen in both the X and Y axis. The chances of having that many motors exhibit the same deficiency is astronomical.
That said, I've got little experience with multiple motors per axis. Another thing you might look into is whether the motors are fighting each other at all. If, for example, the motor-side pulley isn't aligned exactly the same way on both X motors, or the motors get out of sync with each other, because of the way the motor's holding torque falls as you get away from a full step position, you might find that one motor is holding the other back slightly, or pulling it forward towards the nearest full step. Again, this is all speculative, but it might be worth looking into. You can typically figure out the full step location by killing power to the machine and letting the motors settle into a full step on their own without the belts or other drive mechanisms attached. I'd unhook the belts, kill the power, get the motors settled (with a bit of a nudge if necessary), and then see if your belt perfectly settles into both pulleys in that location. You might find that the belt teeth don't quite line up on both pulleys, and the only way I can think of that would fix that specific problem is spinning the motor until it matches, or even physically relocating the motor closer or farther relative to the other on the same axis.
YMMV, best of luck.
# Answer
> 0 votes
This is a great blog post, Taxonomy of Z axis artifacts in extrusion-based 3d printing, explaining what I think I am seeing, although I'm not entirely sure what I'm seeing in your photos.
The short version is if your z-rods are threaded in an imperial unit, inches/fractions of inches, instead of metric, you get a repeating decimal value (think about converting 1/3 to decimal), which can lead to a rounding error depending on the chosen layer height.
Without knowing how exactly you built your machine it's hard to say more but the post goes over a number of things I almost did wrong (like anti-wobble caps on top of the z rods for Prusa i3s...)
# Answer
> 0 votes
I know this is a pretty old discussion, but I had the same trouble recently. In my case, it think it could be a pattern caused by the extruder gears biting into the filament. I found that the problem seemed to be worse with increased retractions. That makes some sense to me, the more retractions you let the slicer make, the more the extruder gears are going to go back and forth through the same length of filament.
To try and confirm this, I turned off retraction completely and cut off and removed the filament that was already past the extruder (this length of filament was presumably marred by many retractions, the filament outside of the extruder would've been clean). My resulting print still had the pattern but not nearly as contrasted and obvious.
I did try adjusting accel, jerk and print speed and the pattern didn't seem to change in frequency with any of that, so that led me to the extruder gears which are constant. I was also going to test if my hotend fan was contributing vibration artifacts but haven't gotten around to it.
Not sure there's much else that can be done with this. Maybe some filaments would have less of an issue than others. It's possible the issue is more obvious on a dual gear extruder? A single gear extruder will only bite into one side, which might be a bit more hidden.
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Tags: fdm, electronics, troubleshooting, ghosting
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thread-18278 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18278 | Ender 3 v2 Extruder Clicking Issue | 2021-10-25T13:08:41.787 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 v2 Extruder Clicking Issue
Can somebpdy help me as I’m struggling with an issue with my Ender 3 V2 extruder. The extruder is clicking after laying down the 1<sup>st</sup> layer. The machine had been running with no issues for over 4 months now, I have made various upgrades including BLTouch, tried different hot ends, etc.
I'm mainly printing TPU and have printed it with no issues using a stock Ender 3 V2. However, last week I was changing the hotend back to stock and accidentally snapped the thermistor wiring. I ordered some replacements as below and replaced the thermistor and hot end back to stock.
* Comgrow Creality 3D Printer NTC Thermistor Temp Sensor 100K for Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5 / CR-10 / CR-10S
At the same time, I removed the BLTouch, and to be honest, I was finding I was getting just as good prints without it on both a 2<sup>nd</sup> and 3<sup>rd</sup> printer I have (both Ender 3 V2’s). This meant re-flashing the firmware back to stock. So effectively, I now have a stock Ender 3, but it has developed this clicking noise from the extruder after the first layer is laid (1<sup>st</sup> layer is perfect).
I can see the TPU material getting snagged in the extruder when the clicking is occurring, so its clearly not making its way through the hotend and blocking up. Can somebody give any advice as to why though? Everything is fine for the 1<sup>st</sup> layer but then the problem starts halfway through the 2<sup>nd</sup> or 3<sup>rd</sup> layer? I have calibrated my extruder steps (after re-flashing) and they changed from 93 to 114 (which seemed a big change). I'm printing the TPU at 205 °C, and even taking the same file to my other 2 printers has no issue, so I’m not sure what has changed?
If somebody can give any advice, it would be most welcome!
# Answer
> 3 votes
Very likely the clicking is from the TPU slipping in the extruder driver gear.
TPU needs a much slower speed than other plastics, make sure you are using an extrusion speed that is reasonable for TPU.
Assuming you are extruding TPU at the correct speed, there are many reasons that could cause the extruder to get clogged. A few might include:
* too small of clearance between the nozzle and the preceding layer (or not enough height above the bed for the initial layer)
* debris in the nozzle (especially if you are switching plastics with a higher melting point or a lower char point)
* too low of a temperature (i.e., melted plastic is too viscous)
* gap inside the extruder between the Bowden tube and the hot end causing molten plastic to back up and solidify and bind with the cold filament
Other questions here may answer the clogging issue better.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, extruder
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thread-15088 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15088 | How to treat PLA (Polylactic acid) plastic to make it biodegradable? | 2020-12-22T20:27:24.673 | # Question
Title: How to treat PLA (Polylactic acid) plastic to make it biodegradable?
I am using PLA for 3D printing, and I know it does not degrade well in the wild. I would like to know if there is a chemical process I could use to treat it at home.
Specifically, I am looking for a cleaner alternative than throwing my 3d printing scraps in the garbage, so I wouldn't be generating toxic components when doing this, ideally. I want the plastic to degrade (in a few years, maybe?) when I put it underground while limiting the amount of toxic matter propagating in the soil.
I have read that hydrolyzing PLA could help to achieve this. I also found threads on dissolving it (How to dissolve PLA (polylactic acid)?). But as I am looking for an eco-friendly process, I think I need to stay away from this as the fumes may be very toxic and polluting
Posts like this one Can I really throw failed PLA prints on compost? mention a few requirements for PLA to degrade but don't talk about a way to achieve these conditions.
# Answer
You can make it biodegradable but it is very hard you need oxygen a temperature of 140+ degrees and a 2/3 cocktail of organic substrate these are usually absent outside of a industrial composting facility.
I had the same question when I got my printer - it's better to just buy recycled filament or recycle your own but PLA is a byproduct of milk production so its pretty naturally sourced anyway.
> 3 votes
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Tags: pla, recycling, biodegradability, composting
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thread-18285 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18285 | Instances won't share support or brim | 2021-10-27T12:44:49.727 | # Question
Title: Instances won't share support or brim
In PrusaSlicer-2.3.3, when there are two instances of an object closer than the support width, the intersecting surface is filled twice; this is what you can see in the center of the picture. The outer perimeters are indeed correct, but the intersection is printed twice.
It would not be so problematic if this was just for one or two layers, but it's also doing it higher, i.e at the support level, and it ruined the print.
So in PrusaSlicer, how do I slice several objects as one object?
# Answer
I found the relevant answer here
> Did you load them as separate objects (which will do what you describe and is wrong) or add the second one as a sub part of the first object (right click, add part-\>load)?
> The latter takes occlusion into account and clips overlapping areas.
Here is what I learned: you can't merge Prusa "instances", they are just a replay of the same G-code
I assume it is a really useful feature if you want to say, fill the bed with dozen of instances of the same product, if you're happy with the settings and you don't want to mess with it. This will just replicate the same g-code at some other place; that makes sense in a production setting.
However, if you're still building then:
Do hard copies (copy paste), reload the same file, or right click on an object, and Add Part / Load. You can merge those ones (as in: CTRL + click / a.k.a multiple selection), right click / merge , and they will slice as expected (as a whole)
Keywords were : overlapping objects, composite object, redundant tool paths
Also, there seems to be a bug in the prusaslicer UI, as you can't reverse the Merge - the objects look like they're trapped under the Merged object once you've committed to it. Set as separate objects is grayed here.
> 2 votes
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Tags: prusaslicer, support-material
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thread-18288 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18288 | Shocks and enclosures | 2021-10-28T13:11:54.453 | # Question
Title: Shocks and enclosures
I have a Creality CR-6 SE running Community firmware. It's printing mostly well, in part because it's improvisationally enclosed (sheets of cardboard between it and the closes window to reduce draft, which was killing my prints on bad days). To make it moderately shock-resistant it's placed on a 50x50 cm concrete tile which is placed on 3 mm of foam. The foam reduces vibrations being redirected to the tile while the tile is heavy enough not to care either way.
Now it has to move because I want to move my desk into the same room as the printer.
This means 2 things:
1. My and my printer will be getting their required ventilation from the same window, but sitting in the same room as a printer for 8+ hours a day isn't a great idea if we breathe the same air. Either I need to scrub the printer exhaust or pipe it out (totally doable, it's not that far).
2. Either I have to sit very quietly or the printer has to be placed somewhat shock-proof. The floor itself is of wood and on the first floor, so there's some minor bounce in it. It's not 100% level and it gets (slightly) worse if you stand next to it.
I've been thinking about making a towered enclosure (roughly like the famous Lack approach). However, if I construct a tower, the increased position vector between ground and printer could make the printer shake. Besides, a simple Lack won't work because PLA won't like being confined. Where other materials like getting hot, PLA likes to be ventilated. The obvious solution would be a couple of fans that can be shut-off and covered, but maybe I'm thinking too complicated already. Either way, that's a fixable problem.
See-through sheet work is likely going to be done with 2mm plexiglass (acrylic, PMMA).
I'm currently printing PLA 100% of the time but the enclosure should be able to handle PLA, ABS, and PETG. There's a Raspberry Pi available, so requiring different settings for different materials is not a problem either.
So I can fix all problems, except the shock one. More fans mean more vibrations, so it will get plenty of shocks by itself. Add the shocks of me walking past it, especially if the printer is in a tower, and you can wait for failed prints.
I've seen people put their printers on springs, but is that the best way to deal with it in enclosures? Would it make sense to put the tower on top of the existing foam/concrete base or would it be better to catch the shocks as close to the printer as possible?
# Answer
First, let's get your physics straight:
> To make it moderately shock-resistant it's placed on a 50x50 cm concrete tile which is placed on 3 mm of foam. The foam reduces vibrations being redirected to the tile while the tile is heavy enough not to care either way.
No. The concrete tile gives your printer **mass** by adding its own to it. Mass by itself results in shifting the point resonance (and thus ringing) occurs, and in conjunction with a flexible mounting (the foam) results in the resonance window getting shifted out of the window where it can be problematic. Nothing about redirecting.
Now, to your problems:
## Enclosure
If you want an enclosure, you can mount it directly onto the concrete tile, or you include the buffered concrete in the enclosure. Totally up to you. If you exhaust it, just adding a big PC fan to the back and then a flexible tube to the window to get rid of warmth if you need would be enough.
## Dampener
3 mm is **way** too little. You should get at least one of those rubber mats from the home depot that is put under washing machines. Those thick rubber pads are usually 10 to 20 mm thick and would decouple the printer movement very well from steps on the floor. You might even want more of a different, softer foam between that rubber pad and the concrete tile.
> 2 votes
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Tags: enclosure, creality-cr-6
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thread-18289 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18289 | Convert 3D printer to laser engraver | 2021-10-28T15:17:22.480 | # Question
Title: Convert 3D printer to laser engraver
Can you convert a 3D printer to a laser engraver?
If so is there a specific thing I have to buy?
# Answer
Yes, one can convert a 3D printer into a Laser Engraver, and it isn't even all that problematic.
* You'd need to acquire a laser diode. These are usually not available with a lot of power - certainly not the hundreds of Watts that come from a proper CO2 laser - but depending on your printer, it might be pretty much a bolt-on addon.
+ The conversion isn't *too* invasive, and takes much less time than building a printer from a set. All3D converted an Ender-3 to have a laser within less than an hour. In their step-by-step guide, they wired it into the 5V part cooling fan port of their printer. Whatever laser diode you choose, the setup will be similar, as long as your diode works with 5 Volt power.
* Once installed on the physical side, you will need to prepare your prints with a different "Slicer" that uses the commands for the fan speed as powers for the laser:
+ `M106 S` sets the power to S, where S is a number from 0 to 255 ; Without an S value, it turns on to the last setting (if turned off via `M107`)
+ `M107` turns off the laser.
One such slicer would be Creality Workshop, which would work with any Marlin-run printer, as long as you use the fan as the diode's power source.
> 9 votes
# Answer
Probably a laser... and a mount for the laser. Then connect its power supply to be switched by the extruder supply/signal. Also, there would be no need for any Z-axis movement, beyond setting the correct height of the laser device.
However, unless you are handy with DIY, messing about with microcontrollers and electronics, modifying firmware and have experience in making your own 3D printer, then it is probably easier to just buy a ready built engraver.
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That said, and after reading Trish's (more technically detailed and accurate) answer, it probably isn't all that daunting to accomplish. In addition, if you *already* have a printer, then a modification would be cheaper than buying a whole new unit.
Here is a handy video tutorial, which shows how easy it, in fact, is: 3D printer to laser engraver for under $60
> This unit was tested on the Creality Ender 5, but the plug should work for any Creality printer like the Ender 3 and CR-10
This modification also uses the *part cooling fan* to control the laser and there is no need to remove the extruder - the laser attaches itself by the use of magnets to the extruder. So you can have a *dual-purpose printer* without that much fuss at all.
The website used to generate the G-code is http://nebarnix.com/img2gco/, and it takes a simple image file as input. The settings recommended by the video are as follows:
>
Note: As pointed out in the video, the minimum power should **not** be zero as this turns off the laser, thereby incurring a delay upon restart. Setting the power to a sufficiently low level - so as not to burn - is preferable, i.e. 10.
> 5 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, laser
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thread-18272 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18272 | Pimples/blisters on some curves - cause? | 2021-10-23T04:23:38.533 | # Question
Title: Pimples/blisters on some curves - cause?
I've noticed my Ender 3 V2 printing odd little bubbles of material on curves. Is this over-extrusion? I'm using Creality PLA at 210 °C with a bed temperature of 60 °C
The opposite side of the same print, with no problem in the curve. Yes, I do have lifting at some corners, but this seems to be a different issue.
This was printing a center-finder
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It's a bit hard to see but here's the same blister-like look on the handles of a grabber-toy. Lighting makes it a bit hard to see, as does printing in black.
I have calibrated my E-steps; initially, it was extruding 95.5 mm when told to do 100.0 mm. By changing the printer's numbers, it's now pushing through 100.1 mm when requested to do 100.0 mm. Is that my cause?
# Answer
> 2 votes
After much faffing about, I've discovered that OctoPrint is the cause, or specifically running it on underpowered hardware.
I originally thought that OctoPrint sent the job to the printer's internal SD card and it printed from there.
That is incorrect, OctoPrint feeds G-code to the printer. And since I'm using a sub-standard Pi B+, it does not have the resources to keep up.
By attaching a webcam, I doubled down on the resource contention and made it worse.
Basically, the OctoPrint minimum-spec is there for a reason, disregard it at your own risk.
The test object can be found at https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1vjIJXoQkde and has 5 half-barrels with different segment counts. I originally noticed that the smoother curves suffered worse, and was testing that.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, pla, overextrusion
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thread-5961 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5961 | Finding a shredder for my failed prints | 2018-05-12T15:42:21.310 | # Question
Title: Finding a shredder for my failed prints
I would love to re-use my failed prints by re-extruding the plastic to be used in the 3D printer once again. One thing that stands in my way is finding an effective way to shred the plastic into smaller bits for the extrude to use. What is a good thing to look for to accomplish this? Maybe a really big 'paper' shredder?
# Answer
there is a project called `precious plastic` and there is a plastic shredder, but it is a rather expensive solution.
As I am waiting for parts for my Lyman extruder, my plan is to hammer the parts and then process in old kitchen robot with steel working area, an example here
The paper shredder will be ok as long as you can feed it with plastic.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I'm in the same boat as you, was contemplating spending $2000 on a shredder, and I was inspired by this RepRap article "Plastic Shredder using Kitchen Blender".
In which someone cleverly reminds us that thermoplastics melt. Put them on a baking tray on baking paper:
Melt them in the oven at a high temperature until they're pancakes:
The link puts them in a kitchen blender, but I've had success with a $70 micro-cut paper shredder from a local office supply store. The plastic puddles have a thin edge, which helps them fit into a shredder rated for "5 sheets of A4 at a time" (suggesting 0.3 mm max) but can process about 2 mm thick plastic if it gets a good lead-in.
The micro-cut particles it puts out are smaller than the PLA beads. I do mix recycled and virgin plastic together in varying ratios but mixing them evenly (especially with the dye beads) is tricky - it's very hard to get precise even colouring.
At 1.25 g/cc, 1 kg of PLA in an oven dish ~A4 sized is about 1.4 cm thick. So, aiming for about 100 g of plastic per dish will get you blobs averaging 1.4 mm. That fits through the shredder fine. 10 blobs make 1 kg of filament.
The only issue I have with the cheap office shredder is when you feed something slightly too thick in, occasionally the teeth deform the plastic into a chunk too big to fit into the shredder for a second pass, so that piece needs to go back into the melt queue.
> 2 votes
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Tags: filament, extrusion, recycling
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thread-18254 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18254 | Why won’t this print adhere after a perfect calibration print? | 2021-10-19T11:20:41.723 | # Question
Title: Why won’t this print adhere after a perfect calibration print?
I am new to 3D printing and have an Ender 5 Pro.
I have manually leveled the bed by setting the nozzle gap to 0.1 mm (via feeler gauges) and then printing a calibration print and manually adjusting the bed height as it prints. I can get perfect calibration prints using both a glass bed and a PEI bed, printing with a bed temp of 75 °C and a nozzle temp of 210 °C:
I’m now trying various other prints without success, as the print doesn’t adhere. See this example of a 1 mm thick bookmark, which I am printing with a brim to try and help :
I’m not sure what the experts here can ascertain from this failed print without all the slicing parameters. I’m a bit suspicious that the print appears to clump and I’m wondering if the soft extruded material is sticking to the PLA already laid down and if so, if I can address that?
I actually seemed to have more success with the original flexible bed with several successful prints.
The G-code for the calibration target: https://pastebin.com/Brc8R8Cs
and for the bookmark: https://pastebin.com/9AXaqiMw
I had to remove a lot of the G-code for the bookmark due to its size, so hopefully I've left the important stuff in.
I started printing by loading the models in CURA, slicing and exporting to an SD card. I didn't;t create a new project for each print and it took me a while to realise I was losing the slicing parameters I'd used each time, making it difficult or impossible to go back and just change one set of parms. I'm now creating a separate project, so hopefully from now on I can just tweak one or 2 parms.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Well I got a perfect print as follows:
1. Loaded the .stl file.
2. Set Cura to use the 'Good' profile downloaded from CHEPCLUB (recommended by a friend).
3. Used Pritt-stick Scotch (glue stick) on the bed.
I was quite loath to use glue stick, as I thought heated beds etc didn't need it, but if that's what it takes then...
I even bought an enclosure a few days ago as the room the printer was in if fairly cool.
I'll try the exact same print without the glue and see if that works but at least I know know that I can get a perfect print and that a good calibration print isn't the be-all and end-all.
# Answer
> 1 votes
First, heat the bed to printing temperature, let it "soak" for a few minutes, and then re-do your bed levelling.
Thermal expansion can mess with the level.
# Answer
> 0 votes
For a good adhesion the print bed should be free of any oil or fat. Wipe the print bed with pure alcohol just befor the start of printing.
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Tags: adhesion, creality-ender-5
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thread-18300 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18300 | Which way should the throat tube be oriented? | 2021-10-30T21:23:20.003 | # Question
Title: Which way should the throat tube be oriented?
I have an Anet A8 clone printer. I see the throat tube is different on each end. I'm trying to ensure I understand which end should go up and which should go down. To me, it appears (from the photo below) the one on the right is the proper orientation (teflon down, metal up). Is this correct?
There are a couple of reasons I ask this question. First, I had the teflon oriented up, and one time the teflon pulled out of the tube while I was pulling the filament out after a print was finished. Secondly, I recently experienced where melted filament was leaking from between heater block and the throat tube right after I replace the tube and nozzle. This was with the teflon down. In this case I think I didn't have the tube tight enough in the heater block (tightened against the nozzle) so there was room for hot filament to ooze out and up past the tube.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The PTFE liner should be in contact with the nozzle. Normally, they are cut about half a millimetre too long, to ensure that good contact with the nozzle is made. I used these throats for several years before I switched to an all-metal hot end. If you take care to tighten the nozzle with the hot end at the highest working temperature that you intend to use, you should have no problems with leaking filament.
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Tags: anet-a8
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thread-18306 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18306 | Are there any mechanisms to determine the optimal contact depth for supports on a Resin printer? | 2021-10-31T13:20:27.973 | # Question
Title: Are there any mechanisms to determine the optimal contact depth for supports on a Resin printer?
I'm having difficulty with pitting/cratering on some of my prints when I remove supports.
I've tried several different removal methods, including removing supports prior to curing, soaking my prints in hot water before removing them, and using clippers or an extremely sharp craft knife, but while this has helped a little I'm still not getting an optimal finish.
The next thing that I'm going to try is to reduce the contact depth of my supports.
Aside from trial and error, is there any mechanism that I can use to help me determine the optimal contact depth?
I'm using Chitubox, which does show stress areas in red, but it either shows an area as high stress of low stress, with nothing in between, and doesn't provide any real help when it comes to selecting the right depth to use.
I'm mostly printing models of my own design, so there isn't an "expert" available to give me the benefits of their experience with these models.
# Answer
The contact depth of your supports is mostly unrelated to the pitting you experience. When the model is sliced, the contact point becomes homogeneous with the rest of the model at that layer. Changing the depth will also change the contact area, based on the taper length of the support end.
Consider that the layer orientation may play a factor in the "damage" done to the surface of the model.
If you have an arbitrary shape with the bottom surface parallel to the vat/resin and add a support, the support will taper from the support stalk diameter to the contact point diameter and then transition to the bottom surface area.
Such a taper creates a convenient stress point for removing the support. This happens at a layer slice, allowing the support to break free and leave the least amount of damage on the surface.
Any other angle between the support and the model surface creates a less-than-linear break. Possibly the most damage will result from a horizontal support attaching to a small feature that also tapers toward the attach point. Will it break at the support point or will it destroy the tip of the model?
Regarding the reduction of support diameters: I've done so with the result the model snapping free during print. Insufficient strength with the smaller tips means a complete model failure. Larger tips allow the model to print properly, but post-processing is increased, of course.
> 2 votes
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Tags: resin, support-structures
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thread-18312 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18312 | Part not adhering to the raft | 2021-11-01T16:29:14.127 | # Question
Title: Part not adhering to the raft
I'm having a very odd problem where my part is not sticking to the raft.
I'm using support material, with a very large overhang angle (70°). However I don't think this is the cause, as the side of the wheel that is on the build plate is several mm wide, and flat at that end. I need the 70° for a weird tread pattern that I have that only needs to be supported on the very first one.
I'm using PLA, with a nozzle temperature of 200 °C and a bed temperature of 50 °C.
I've checked that the part is snapping to the build plate, so there isn't a gap between the part and the raft, at least not modeled to be. Looking at the slicer (Cura) it seems as though there's a 2 layer gap between my part and the first layer of my wheel, but I'm not sure why it's there? or how to remove that gap
Layer 5
Layer 6
Layer 7
My assumption is that, if I can remove this, everything will work?? The part as it's being printed right now is looking like this, for the first layer of the part. As you can see here, my wheel is very not round.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I reviewed the G-Code and there was a Z-layer command that was larger than what was supposed to be. The Z-layer change shifted the nozzle up by 3x the distance it was supposed to (0.84 mm instead of 0.28 mm). I changed it to be just the layer distance and the print worked. I have NO idea why this happened, but a solution is a solution.
Interestingly though layers 6 and 7 in the images above were both at the same layer height, but the post-processing viewer identified them as two different layers. They were both at the same Z-value but were called out as different layers even though there was no change in the Z-value in the G-Code.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, adhesion
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thread-18189 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18189 | How can I convert a mathematically defined shape into a 3D printable G-code file? | 2021-10-04T07:16:06.150 | # Question
Title: How can I convert a mathematically defined shape into a 3D printable G-code file?
Suppose I have the X, Y, and Z coordinates (either in a list or a function z = f(x,y)) that defines a shape as the one provided and I want to 3D print it with a solid bottom, is there an easy way to do this? If not, how can a functionally well-defined shape be put into a 3D modeling software like FreeCAD?
# Answer
For stuff like this, OpenSCAD is your friend. There are several different approaches you could take:
1. Generate an image file with grayscale color representing the height of the function on an XY grid, and use the `surface` feature to import it as a heightmap.
2. Write the function as a mathematical expression in OpenSCAD language, and write a module to generate a `polyhedron` by iterating over a sufficiently fine coordiante grid, sampling the function, and producing points and triangles.
3. Use a library someone else has already written for this purpose. I'm not aware of specific ones but pretty sure there are quite a few.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Another option is to use Full Control Designer where you can define the path using Excel formulas and it will generate the GCode for you.
> 1 votes
# Answer
You may generate a .stl file from your mathematical definition. You may write a program using a language of your choice to compute the .stl file.
Your image shows a lot of rectangles, each rectangle may be described as two triangles. The .stl file is a (very long) list of all that triangles. Each triangle is defined by the X, Y, and Z coordinates of the three corners.
```
solid name
facet normal ni nj nk
outer loop
vertex v1x v1y v1z
vertex v2x v2y v2z
vertex v3x v3y v3z
endloop
endfacet
endsolid name
```
Each n or v is a floating-point number in sign-mantissa-"e"-sign-exponent format, e.g., "2.648000e-002". The triangle vertices should be sorted using the "right-hand rule", i.e. the vertices are listed in counter-clockwise order from outside.
The normal vector ni nj nk is set to zero.
The G-code file is generated from the .stl file using the slicing software for your 3D printer.
See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL\_(file\_format) for details.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Not sure what you're asking exactly, but you can use this workflow:
1. SideFX Houdini: math function + STL file generation
2. (optional) FreeCAD: Import STL as mesh, do whatever you need to do in FreeCAD, export to STL
3. a slicer: import the STL and slice it.
> 1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, cad, freecad
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thread-16440 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16440 | Converting a 2D black and white image to a 3D model for printing on Linux | 2021-06-04T16:27:04.690 | # Question
Title: Converting a 2D black and white image to a 3D model for printing on Linux
Windows has its 3D Builder software which upon importing an image, converts it to a heightmap of the image, aka turning it to a 3D model that can be saved as an stl.
Does Linux have software with similar properties that takes a black and white image and turning it into a 3D heightmap model?
# Answer
The OpenSCAD `surface` function will do this. You can feed it a greyscale image or a textfile containing a matrix. Documentation and examples can be found at https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD\_User\_Manual/Other\_Language\_Features#Surface
OpenSCAD is a cross platform free open source cad package.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Cura will import a picture and use it as a heightmap to build a 3d object.
There are a few options available when importing :
You can even export back the data as STL if you need to process the mesh. Here is the mesh exported in STL, opened in SideFX Houdini:
> 1 votes
# Answer
FreeCAD can import JPG (and IIRC TIFF and PNG as well) image files and produce a lithophane type height-map based on the brightness of each pixel. I'd be rather surprised if other 3D CAD software aimed at the 3D printing user base couldn't do the same. Most of the common free-to-use 3D CAD packages have Linux versions; FreeCAD certainly does (I use it on Kubuntu 20.04, and it should work on any recent version of any flavor of Debian-based Linux, if your hardware meets it requirements).
> 0 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, 2d
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thread-18316 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18316 | Ender 3 destroyed itself... HELP! | 2021-11-02T14:04:36.630 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 destroyed itself... HELP!
Recently I noticed a small issue with my Creality Ender 3, where I would come home and find one of the bed leveling wheels had fallen off. This one wheel keeps vibrating loose. It's not really affecting my prints for some reason, so I just kind of let it happen.
Yesterday I started an 8 hour print and left. When I came home, I heard a loud buzzing noise. I walk into my room and smell a burning smell. I see the printer has extruded plastic all over the place. PLA is all over the floor. The plastic its extruding is normal filament, not extruded plastic; the nozzle is gone. Not entirely sure how it came out, because it was tight.
I switch off the printer and assess the damage.
* The nozzle is on the floor, covered in a big blob of plastic.
* The stock fiberglass build plate is nowhere to be seen; I think it fell behind the desk the printer is on.
* The friction surface below the plate is covered with scratches and blobs of plastic - that needs to be replaced as well.
* Two of the bed leveling wheels are gone. One is on the floor, and the other probably fell behind the desk like the build plate.
* The hotend fan has filament going through it. It's missing three blades. Two of them fell on the floor, and one fell into the hotend and melted, making the burning smell.
* The hotend is *covered* in melted plastic.
* The heater block has lots of plastic jamming the hole where the nozzle goes.
Where do I go from here? How do I fix this? Is this fixable?
What should I do to make sure this doesn't happen again?
# Answer
From your description, it looks like you need a new hot end (inexpensive and readily available wherever you bought your Ender 3 -- it'll include a 0.4 mm nozzle, but it wouldn't be a bad thing to get some spares -- a new fan to replace the broken one (same), and a slight change of technique in leveling your bed. The hot bed is fine, as long as the heater and thermistor aren't damaged -- that aluminum surface is only there to support the build surface.
You'll want to adjust or modify the Z-stop switch bracket to lower the bed a couple millimeters, in order to be able to tighten all four adjusting knobs completely and then back them off about 2-3 turns, and still get correct bed clearance. Setting your leveling this way will leave enough compression in the springs that the knobs won't move (as much) when the machine is running; you'll only need to reset the clearance every 2-3 prints instead of having it go out before you finish a print. You might also consider buying a set of four nuts to jam against the knobs when the bed is properly set; that will fully lock the leveling knobs and may mean you only have to adjust the bed when you change filament material or replace a nozzle.
From my own experience, I'd also recommend getting a glass build surface (see above for cost and availability -- you shouldn't be up to $50 in parts yet even with the new surface), and planning to use the uncoated side. A couple glue sticks and a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol will complete the upgrade on the bed side (and the thickness of the glass might mean you don't need to modify your Z-stop mount). If the clamps that came with your fiberglass surface are gone or not large enough for the glass, you can get larger ones at any office supply store.
> 2 votes
# Answer
To address the second question **"How to stop this happening again"**
You should check-in on your printer more often, get someone at home to look, or find some way to monitor it remotely/automatically.
If you're at home, just go look at it periodically. I'm tempted to move the printer into the room where I am more, but the noise upsets the dog so I've left it running in the garage.
If you're out, there are plenty of camera solutions, though be wary of privacy. Personally I use a cheap USB webcam attached to a Pi running octoprint, and I check the picture stream from work, and can stop the print if it starts going badly.
There exist optional modules like SpaghettiDetective which can monitor that same stream and decide if it's all going wrong. I've not used this yet, but its on the todo list.
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting
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thread-18270 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18270 | Why is there a "dotted line" in my "larger" prints | 2021-10-23T02:08:33.783 | # Question
Title: Why is there a "dotted line" in my "larger" prints
For some reason, my larger prints, or rather the ones that I create, have this "dotted" line in them. And, that line usually splits into two pieces.
I use Ultimaker Cura for a slicer, I use Blender for modeling, and I have an Ender 3 Pro
Let me know if anyone knows the reason for this as it's preventing me from making things on my own.
Picture:
Here's my Cura file, if anyone needs it
# Answer
If hardware failures have been excluded (and they can be as subtle as "a broken wire only loses contact at this particular Z height", so don't be too quick to assume that), then the likely reason for a problem like this is **bad geometry**.
When you move from Blender to Cura, Blender exports a triangle mesh, which defines *surfaces*. Cura then has to read that triangle mesh and figure out which *volumes* should be filled with plastic. In order to do this reliably, the triangle mesh needs to completely enclose a volume (“be watertight” in the jargon), but it's easy for 3D tools meant for graphics (such as Blender) to produce models which
* *don't* completely enclose a volume, but have small gaps,
* have triangles that intersect but not at their vertices, or
* have parts that intersect other parts.
If any of these cases occurs, then the slicer may get confused about what the interior and exterior of the model is, and produce incorrect layers.
I'm not familiar with the functionality of Cura (I use PrusaSlicer), but if I had this problem, what I would want to do is look at the *preview of the extrusions,* inspecting it layer-by-layer to see if the place where the physical error is also has missing extrusion lines in the slicer's preview. If so, then this is almost certainly due to a geometry error in the mesh.
If this is the case, then to fix it, you could:
* Go back to Blender, find the bad area and edit it to be properly closed off.
* Or, use a separate repair tool intended to fix common mesh problems.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Blender is not to blame. You're drawing a wrong conclusion here. (as stated in a comment of yours)
From your Cura file, I extacted the 3d model as a STL file, and it looks like this:
Nothing wrong with it, it just a water tight triangulated mesh.
Cura produces a correct tool path, nothing remarkable there either.
The red marks on both pictures indicate where the infill lines meet the perimeter walls.
You can also see that the part is already really close to delaminating mid print on lower layers (all of the yellow marks indicate places where it looks like that layer tried to peel but eventually didn't fail to the same extent.
You should try to optimize the settings of your slicer in the (filament temperature, print speed, layer height, cooling) space.
Prusa slicer has a feature related to infill sticking to walls, called Length of the infill anchor:
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/infill\_42 I didn't find a similar concept in Cura; maybe it could help for your setup, if nothing else works.
Also, you have elephant feet (bootom yello square bracket)
> 3 votes
# Answer
At first glance, this looks like it could be missing layers.
There are five possible causes for missing layers.
1. **Something is off mechanically.**
Check to see if anything has slipped, shifted, moved, or popped out.
2. **Misalignment**
Check to see that all three axes are properly aligned and haven't shifted. If there is any resistance, something is misaligned, bent, or a problem with the bearings.
3. **Bad Bearings**
If a bearing is the culprit, it will make some noise. The bearing will also exhibit some uneven motion in the print head.
4. **Lack of Lubrication**
Check to see if any of the axes are binding in any way. A little, and just a little, bit of sewing machine oil can be the solution.
5. **Under-Extrusion**
This is a whole different set of problems that requires a new question to get an answer.
For more detailed information, see All3DP.com's article "3D Printing Troubleshooting All Common Problems"
> 1 votes
# Answer
This looks to me just like standard poor reliability of the Ender 3's stock extruder, which is ungeared (torque too low), poorly tensioned, and insufficiently grips the filament (due to flat hob whose teeth only touch the filament in a single point).
If you've had success with other models in the past, is is possible that they were more intricate shapes with small details? My guess is that you have the print speed set higher than your extruder can reliably deliver, but due to acceleration limits, the requested top speed was rarely or never achieved for the models you printed successfully. Now that you're trying to print something with long, straight lines, the toolhead does have time to accelerate to (or closer to) the requested speed.
You didn't mention what material you're printing. If it's PETG, you're just going to have to go a lot slower with the Ender 3's stock extruder. If it's PLA, you might be able to get it to work by increasing the temperature significantly (possibly a tradeoff with other problems). If the speeds you have to drop to for reliable printing end up not being acceptable, look at getting a decent extruder.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, blender
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thread-18295 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18295 | QR code 3D printing | 2021-10-29T15:57:32.277 | # Question
Title: QR code 3D printing
Is it possible to 3D print a QR code? or to engrave it using a 3D printer? I tried to convert it to individual boxes but that takes too long and is very inaccurate. Is there a better way?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I used the qrcore2stl website for my WiFi access point.
You can easily change the parameters of the QR code and associated .stl, as well as add custom text and keychain holes.
For my WiFi access, I inserted a pause command at 1 mm height, and changed filament from white to black at that point.
# Answer
> 3 votes
From the excellent Thingiverse link, Customizable QR Keyring or Tag by *OutwardB* \- which was provided in the (now deleted) link-only answer:
> 1. ### Create the QR code
>
> * Go to QRCode Monkey
> * **Only change the Content settings**
>
> DO NOT change the color, logo or design settings
> * Click **Create QR Code**
> * Click **Download PNG** and wait for the file to download
> 2. ### Convert to SVG
> 3. ### Customise in OpenSCAD
>
> You will need `QR_Code_Customizer_V01_2.scad` from the files repository on Thingverse
>
> 1. Download OpenSCAD from here and install it - https://openscad.org/downloads.html
> 2. Put the downloaded SVG file in the same folder as the .SCAD file from this page
> 3. Double-click the .SCAD file to open it
> 4. Click **Window**, then untick **Hide Customizer**
>
> *Optional*: Click **Window**, then tick **Hide Editor**
> 5. Enter the SVG file name in the basic settings tab (or rename the file to qr-code.svg before opening OpenSCAD)
> 6. Customize the settings. After changing a setting, you may need to click outside the text box to apply the change
> 7. Click **Design** \> **Render** and wait for the design to render
> 8. Click **File** \> **Export** \> **Export to STL**
> 9. Save the file
>
> ### Notes
>
> * **Raised** and **Cut-Out** types are for changing filament at layer height
> * **Multi-color** and **Code** are to be used together for inlay/multi-color printers
> * You can also set *Base Height* or *Code Height* to 0 and export each part on it's own
> * If you want to print a **double sided tag**, you can set *Base Height* to 0 and export the second side. Then just flip this over in the slicer
> * The text options are a okay for basic text, but if you want to use another program to add some, you can add extra height to the top/bottom of the card under **Extra Size Setting**
>
> ### Advanced Notes
>
> * There is some logic in the script that stop you from making the size too small if you have Line Size set, you can set Line Size to 0 or half your line size value if you really want to override this.
> * You can change the Customize Design settings before generating the QR Code (on QRCode Monkey), but you'll need to set Line Size to 0 and there are no promises that it'll print well
> * If you want to use a different site to create the QR code, resize the image to 1147x1147 pixels before converting it to an SVG. Or if the QR code in the image doesn't have a border, resize it to 1000x1000 px.
> * If you want to use a different source for the SVG file, there are instructions for working out the size in the code (`QR_Code_Customizer_V01_2.scad`) at line 215. You'll need to export it as a STL and measure it outside of OpenSCAD, then enter the values into the script.
The linked to Thingiverse page also has some extra steps for adding an icon:
> ### Add an icon
>
> You can import another SVG file as a logo or use logo fonts.
>
> The below example uses an wifi SVG file from IconMonstr
>
> * Download the wifi SVG file
> * Place it in the same folder as the .SCAD file
> * In the customizer:
> + Add some extra space to the top or bottom of the card under **Extra Size Settings**
> + Go to SVG Logo Settings
> + Tick **enable svg logo**
> + Enter the filename under **svg logo name**
> + Set the **svg y nudge** position and **svg logo scale**
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Tags: 3d-models
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thread-18328 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18328 | Are bottom layer Curing settings automatically applied to everything touching the build plate? | 2021-11-04T13:42:56.390 | # Question
Title: Are bottom layer Curing settings automatically applied to everything touching the build plate?
When using Chitubox as a slicer for a resin print, will the bottom layer curing settings automatically be applied to any party of a model that is in contact with the build plate, or only to certain areas such as support rafts?
For example, if you were to place a gaming piece with a base flat on the build plate would the bottom of the base be cured using the bottom layer settings because it is in contact with the build plate, or with the same settings as the rest of the model?
# Answer
The bottom layer curing settings apply only to the number of layers configured in the settings panel appropriate to that option.
A gaming piece placed flat on the build plate would have curing times to match the above-noted settings for the specified number of layers. All subsequent layers would be cured with the (probably) faster/shorter curing time settings.
The contact with the build plate is presumed but not required. If one placed a model to be sliced in such a way that it was elevated by two layer heights (nominal 0.050 x 2 = 0.100 mm) but the settings provided for four bottom layer curing times, the first two of the lower layers of the elevated model would be cured for the bottom-setting times.
Consider that you have a basin attached to the build plate. The basin is four layers deep. Everything that would contact a fluid in that basin will be given the bottom layer exposure times.
> 1 votes
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Tags: slicing, chitu
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thread-18333 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18333 | Which filament type is easiest to sand smooth? | 2021-11-06T08:30:13.573 | # Question
Title: Which filament type is easiest to sand smooth?
For print applications where sanding is to be used to reduce the appearance of layer lines on medium to large objects with sweeping curves, but little to no surface detail (A vase or cosplay helmet, for example), which filament type offers the best finish?
# Answer
You may discover that the type of filament has minimal bearing on the surface finish. PLA melts at a lower temperature than most of the other filament types. During sanding, it can melt into and clog the abrasive media if sufficient heat develops. This can be mitigated by using wet/dry sandpaper or applying water periodically during the sanding.
I have found that ABS and PETG are less prone to this problem. If your only objective is to remove layer lines, you may accomplish that goal without wet/dry abrasives. If you desire to have a smoother finish, finer grits will require the wetting of the surface.
As higher grits are applied, one can develop a near-glass-smooth finish. I have used this process (including micromesh™) on both PLA and ABS resulting in reflective surfaces.
> 5 votes
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Tags: post-processing, filament-choice
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thread-18330 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18330 | What is the optimum shape to ensure that a base of a model adheres properly to the build plate on a filament printer using PLA? | 2021-11-04T19:52:23.773 | # Question
Title: What is the optimum shape to ensure that a base of a model adheres properly to the build plate on a filament printer using PLA?
If you are printing an object that has a base (A statue or trophy, for example), and presuming that you have already optimized every other setting: which shape of base would give you the best and most consistent bed adhesion when using PLA on the widest range of printers (For example, if you're putting it up on a site for anybody to download)?
For example:
1. A square base that is thin at the edges and thick in the middle, and slopes upwards in the center, like a pyramid.
2. A circular base that is thin at the edges and thick in the middle, like a dome
3. A flat thick square.
4. A flat thick circle
Is a shape with corners better, or a shape with no corners like a disc or a fried egg?
Do sloping sides make a difference, or general thickness?
# Answer
> 1 votes
On a heated bed the ideal setting is where the plastic becomes sticky, but not hot enough it changes shape. For PLA that's usually around 60 °C.
You want enough plastic on the build plate to stick to it, but not so much it won't come off. Use support to increase cIf the majority of the bed is covered it might stick too much.
My rule of thumb is to look at the shadow the part casts on the plate when lit from above. That's about the right amount. If it's too small or too large use supports to adjust the contact with the bed.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Plastics that shrink a lot (like ABS) do better with a base plate shape that has no corners. One approach is to put a one layer circle on every corner (ears).
PLA has a very small shrink factor, so there isn't really much of a difference for different shapes for the first layers as long as there is enough area in the base for the height of the part. If you are having problems with adhesion and PLA, either your first layer height is off or something is wrong with your build surface.
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Tags: pla, adhesion
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thread-18341 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18341 | 3D printing workspace in the tropics | 2021-11-07T00:54:32.977 | # Question
Title: 3D printing workspace in the tropics
I'm building a workspace for 3D printing for a project. I'm in the tropics so at this point it's just a large concrete pad with a roof next to my workshop. This is a very hot humid country.
I'm assuming keeping it open will be as cool as possible (if that's even something that's needed) unless I air condition a room which will be pretty expensive and I'm not sure I could afford that for the months the project will run. Also less worry about any fumes. The printers will not have enclosures. Thirteen to 14-year-old kids will be doing the actual printing, I'm just setting up a production line for them.
At this point, we're looking at getting Ender 3 printers and printing with PLA filament if the type makes a difference.
Is there anything I need to worry about with a setup like this? I still have a while before we can get any actual printers, so I can wall it if need be.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Many plastics are hygroscopic so the humidity may be a concern. You should research the effects of plastic that has absorbed too much humidity so that you can recognize it if it becomes a problem.
If you are getting a large amount of plastic, I would recommend getting air tight containers to store it in (I use a 5 gallon bucket with a lid that has a rubber gasket) and desiccant and a method to re-dry the desiccant. (I use a toaster oven to bake the desiccant until it changes color.)
If you actually do have problems with humidity, you may also want to get or build a filament dryer. In extreme cases, some people feed the printer directly from the dryer, but most plastics are not that sensitive.
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Tags: desktop-printer
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thread-14877 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14877 | What's the best way to connect pieces of a large print after printing? | 2020-11-25T16:56:13.433 | # Question
Title: What's the best way to connect pieces of a large print after printing?
I have a number of fairly large printed pieces. The parts, when assembled, form a very large sword. (The model is this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178060, and is not mine.) It is about 7' from tip to pommel, and individual pieces are fairly large. The pieces are already printed, so advice to modify the model geometry to add reinforcements at this point is moot.
I have printed the pieces in PLA. I'm not asking for glue recommendations, necessarily, but rather something that could help with adhesion in addition to the glue. I'm concerned that after gluing them together, they won't support their own weight very well. I'm not worried about swinging it, just holding it and hanging it on a wall.
If I was very clever, I would have modified the files to add a through-hole that I would've put a pipe through or something, but I didn't think that far ahead. I could drill holes in the printed pieces, but I don't have a good way to make sure they line up.
So, what is the best way to add some kind of support to help keep the parts from falling apart? Is there some trick I could use to figure out how to line up drill holes?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Superglue - aka Cyanoacrylate can do the job quite well if given help.
It depends on two flat and clean surfaces. If your printer has any lifting in corners, glue won't save you. The two parts have to be flat as possible, which may mean sanding with a clean sheet of 120 grit glued to a backing board. Any coarser and it will rip strands out; too fine and it will take forever plus your released plastic micro-particles get smaller.
Also, toothing the plastic print is critical if you're gluing the bed-face to something else. The first layer tends to have an almost glossy surface, and this is hard for the glue to adhere to.
If you can, add "gussets" across the join line, to help give the glue more surface area to stick to.
Avoid using "kicker" because it gives a weaker bond, though it sets faster.
---
Other solvents can help too, but they depend on the plastic you've printed in.
# Answer
> 3 votes
**Previous answer assuming not yet printed**:
If you want to drill holes, print smaller guide holes to guide the drill bit. The best glue depends on the material. Printing structures like dovetails makes the connection less dependent on the strength of the glue.
**Answer with the parts already printed**:
The best way to align drilled holes is probably to glue the pieces together first, then drill the holes. Otherwise, you need a method to clamp the pieces together or do precision drilling.
# Answer
> 1 votes
A stronger joint than glue can be had by welding, albeit uglier and best used in hidden areas. One way to weld is with friction, using a Dremel to spin a piece of filament so fast it heats up and melts with the two plastic pieces you are joining. You tack the pieces together with a couple spot welds, then move along the joint slowly, melting a bead of plastic that is melted into both sides. Like metal welding, penetration is key to strength. You need a straight piece of filament (heat gun works, and rolling it on a flat surface while it is soft), and 3mm is a better size than 1.75mm, if available. It also helps if the joint is a little “V” shaped, so you melt plastic in the crack between the two pieces. Search “filament friction welding” for articles.
You can also weld with some filament and a chisel tip soldering iron with variable temperature (lower the temperature to a little above the filament’s printing temp). Melt the filament into the crack between the parts. Do something to get rid of the fumes if using ABS, etc.
Both work, friction welding might get more penetration into the parts being joined, thus a stronger joint, but they are both a sturdy way to do a butt joint between two printed parts, that would be weak if glued.
The friction welding can also be used to “rivet” overlapping parts, if you dive in and melt the spinning rod through the two parts, then stop the motor and hold it in place while it cools, then snip the end of the rivet off flush.
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Tags: 3d-models, post-processing
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thread-11667 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11667 | Very low strength of HIPS prints - Why? | 2020-01-03T21:08:53.273 | # Question
Title: Very low strength of HIPS prints - Why?
I'm using a Prusa i3 MK3S printer. After ~8 months of printing PLA, PET-G, ABS I decided to buy some HIPS and print something with it. I cannot print \>1 filaments at once, so I'm not using it as a support for ABS, **I want to create some high durability working models, like gears, robot parts etc.**
While the quality of my models is perfect, unfortunately their **strength is disappointingly low. They easily undergo plastic deformation or break.** I've tried lots of settings, some yielding better or worse results, but the problem is present regardless.
My settings:
* Printer: Prusa i3 MK3S
* Nozzle: Default 0.4 mm nozzle for Prusa
* Layer Height: 0.2-0.3 mm
* Temperature: 230-240 °C nozzle, 100-110 °C bed
* Slicer: PrusaSlicer 2.0.0
I've read lots of tutorials regarding HIPS printing and they did not give me the answer to my question...
Am I doing something wrong or is it normal for High Impact PolyStyrene? At this point, the *High Impact* Polystyrene seems less *High Impact* than generic PLA.
# Answer
> 3 votes
It might. If HIPS is a single material with consistent properties, it might have a narrower temperature range. Online references suggest up to 240 °C. Try that, then 245 and 250 °C. Maybe higher.
# Answer
> 2 votes
You might try upgrading your PrusaSlicer to 2.1.1. I don't know if the "Prusa HIPS" setting got updated since your 2.0.0 but it's worth checking.
For comparison, PrusaSlicer 2.1.1 uses these settings for HIPS:
Filament:
* First layer temp: 220
* Other layer temp: 220
* Bed temp, first layer: 100
* Bed temp, other layers: 110
Cooling:
* Fan speed: min 20%, max 20%
* Bridges fan speed: 50%
* Disable fan for first 3 layers
* Enable fan if layer print time is below 10 sec
* Other cooling settings same as for PLA
Advanced:
* Max volumetric speed: 11
There's also custom G-code for HIPS setting M900 K10.
I, too, want to print actual parts with HIPS. For me, it's because HIPS the lowest density of all the commonly-available stiff-plastic filaments, which is great for printing lightweight model aircraft parts where every gram matters.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The primary use of HIPS in 3D printing is to create sacrificial supports, which you're aware of. The material dissolves in lemon oil, making it popular for printing dense supports within complex shapes that can then be easily removed just by spraying the part down with Orange Clean.
I would not expect HIPS material sold for 3D printing use to have much if any strength, especially for moving parts. Outside 3D printing, most uses of the material are in expanded foam products like bike helmets, flotation products etc, and these applications require pressure-molding, which creates a higher-density object and hardens the foam's outer layer to make it tough enough for everyday use. Just extruding the stuff out into the open air gives you the same density (and strength) as a packing peanut.
If you want a styrene-type material that's strong, tough and relatively light, I'd stick with ABS. If you're looking for a challenge in a similar material, try nylon; it creates a lower-friction surface, is very tough but pliable, and its hygroscopy requires very careful handling of the filament (in some more humid climates, you have to feed it from a dry box through PTFE tubing straight into the printer; even the time out in the air between the box and the extruder is enough to get hydrolysis-related issues).
If you really want to print HIPS foam gears, the only thing I can suggest you try is an epoxy coating to give the object a harder shell while retaining the light weight. My wife does custom-applique vacuum tumblers (but who doesn't nowadays; my wife's making more money selling other people the supplies and equipment to do it), and her favorite stuff to use is Faux Rizzle; very durable, odorless, easy to mix and apply, and relatively inexpensive (many other art resins sell for about double what you can get FR for). Good luck to you.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I've been using HIPS for nearly 2 years now to print the housings of EDF units for RC planes. They come out light and strong but have poor layer adhesion, especially on thin-wall parts.
Normally I print at with a 260 °C nozzle and 100 °C bed but will try higher temperature when I upgrade my Ender 5 to a 32-bit board. Thin cyanoacrylate painted on the surface solves most issues. Sometimes I use a solution of ASA dissolved in acetone to paint the surface and bind layers together.
The EDF rotors I print from Apollo X which is a modified ASA that is easy to print but not soluble in acetone.
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Tags: filament, 3d-models
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thread-14040 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14040 | How to feed the filament through the material shortage sensor? | 2020-07-07T19:45:48.143 | # Question
Title: How to feed the filament through the material shortage sensor?
I'm just finishing the set-up of a CR-10 Max. It is a new printer.
I don't manage to feed the filament through the material shortage sensor.
I can hear the micro switch click; the LED turns blue, then a few millimeters after that (33 mm total from the entry point), there is something that prevents the filament from going forward. I don't see any switch on the outside of the sensor, and I applied a reasonable amount of force on the filament.
Can you tell me how to troubleshoot this ?
# Answer
I've designed similar sensor casings, sometimes the filament catches a ridge/ledge or part of the cavity, even when it is chamfered or rounded. The arm of the limit switch pushes the filament up, away from the filament straight path.
Have you tried cutting the filament under a very sharp angle, that may work.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Here is 3D model that better explains why it was catching and how to remedy the problem:
The filament is likely to have some twists and the bevel you create may not be in the correct orientation once it catches the ridge.
The out hole is not chamfered on the inside, as it is drilled from the outside, and I guess a chamfer on the inside is not available at this price range.
I found that twisting the filament 90° at most one way or the other always helps the filament finds its way. It can be tricky because of the small diameter/stiffness of the filament, with the spool still attached to the other end.
> 1 votes
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Tags: extruder, creality-cr-10, filament-sensor
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thread-18340 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18340 | 3D printer in a wardrobe | 2021-11-06T20:23:21.287 | # Question
Title: 3D printer in a wardrobe
I was wondering if I can/should put my 3D printer into a wardrobe. Would it make my clothes smell? (They won’t be directly next to it) . I was wondering if it could make the printer overheat, or make some other problems. Or if it could be good as an enclosure. I have an Ikea wardrobe. Should I wrap the inside with tin foil? I have an Ender 3 V2 printer.
I’ll be using mostly PLA, ABS, TPU and PETG.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Yes, you can use an enclosure, many people do.
**PSA**: Whatever you use for an enclosure, please take precautions for the potential of fire. Have a smoke detector within the enclosure or nearby. Resist the temptation to leave your printer unattended, give yourself some method for remote viewing (ex: RaspPi + OctoPi + RaspCamera). Even with a tuned printer things still go wrong.
In the long run, you will be better off with a purpose-built enclosure. The primary goals of a good enclosure are visibility of an active print, access to the changing print filament, and heat control (stability). Together these imply a large doorway and windows. The goal temperature to be held within your enclosure is roughly 30-50 °C.
A wardrobe is likely a thick material and will hold higher temps, and is not see-thru, making it an undesirable enclosure. DO NOT USE cardboard, unless you want to tempt fate. Aluminum foil, though flame resistant, is not sturdy and makes for poor visibility of the print. In short, don't be super cheap-o here.
The concerns of equipment overheating are mostly for the power supply and controllers (ex: RaspPi). I suggest to detached them, placing them outside of the enclosure. Again, a wardrobe may be too big for the controllers & power supply to be outside and still have the cables reach the printer components. If your enclosure temp never exceeds 32 °C (90 °F), you could possibly get away with leaving the equipment attached and inside.
Once you have an enclosure for your 3D Printer, determine if your enclosure needs vents. Get yourself a small thermometer and track the internal heat near the roof, during a long-running print. Add passive vents to the corners if the temp reaches 45 °C or above. Avoid active fans, as flowing air will lead to warping & separation of prints from the bed. Your goal is to have a stable temperature around your printed plastic.
For reference: The particular enclosure I'm using is a simple clear Acrylic box, with a few small vent holes, measuring 18" wide x 24" long x 18" high, barely big enough for my 3D Printer. I'm running an Creality Ender 3 v1, typically with ABS using 220 °C for the hotend and 100 °C for the bed. The enclosure internal temperature rises to 35 °C, starting from an ambient room temp of 20 °C (68 °F).
The acrylic makes for a sturdy box, the print progress is very visible, large easy doors and provides moderate insulation. Cost was roughly ~$75 total for 5 sheets of 18" x 24" x 0.093" acrylic (left, right, top, front, back) @ 14\\$/ea.
Hope this helps and best wishes.
P.S. External link to examples of many 3D printer enclosures (some good, some bad): https://www.instructables.com/workshop/howto/3d+printer+enclosure/
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Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, enclosure
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thread-14381 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14381 | Ender 3 with direct drive has severe stringing printing TPU | 2020-09-04T09:56:58.157 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 with direct drive has severe stringing printing TPU
I recently upgraded my Ender 3 Pro with a direct drive kit, primarily so I can print soft materials like TPU. I bought a spool of Overture TPU to try it out.
I'm getting really bad stringing on every print, to the point where it's pretty much unusable. This is my first time printing with TPU, so I'm at a loss for what to do.
**Direct Drive mod** \- After modding the printer I did a few prints with PLA, and it works great with very little stringing. So I assume I assembled the mod correctly and that's not the issue.
**Material** \- Reviews of the Overture TPU on Amazon mostly say it has low stringing and are generally positive, so I'm assuming it's not just bad filament.
**Temperature** \- The consensus in the Amazon reviews seems to be that 230°C is the sweet spot. I did a temperature tower from 205 °C to 230 °C by 5 °C, and the print quality and stringing was pretty much uniform throughout.
**Retraction** \- I tried with retraction off, then with 1 mm, 2 mm, and 6.5 mm, in various combinations with temperature and speed. Results varied in details, but all were pretty bad.
**Speed** \- I tried slowing down to 15 mm/s (from Cura's default of 50). Results got even worse.
Following are photos of a stringing test with various combinations of settings.
PLA for reference - 205 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm
TPU - 205 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 2 mm - Print speed 15 mm/s
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm - Print speed 15 mm/s
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 2 mm
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 6.5 mm
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.12 mm - No retraction
TPU - 240 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - No retraction
Is there something else I should try to reduce stringing? Is it possible that I just got a bad spool of TPU? Or is it more likely something's wrong with my printer?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Due to the flexible characteristics of TPU, stringing is a known "complication" with this material.
is a video from Matterhackers: 1. no retraction - stringing is expected
2. dry filament - ensure the filament hasn't been exposed to the air for extended periods - use an oven or dehydrator if needed
There are many other tutorials and videos covering the process.
Tom Sanladerer has also a video covering the use of flexible filament.
1. ensure correct alignment of hobbed bolt and feed hole
2. consider to use a piece of PTFE tubing downstream of drive mechanism
3. use 3 mm (usually 2.85 mm nowadays) filament for better results (if possible)
4. bed temp - 40 °C with glue stick on bed
5. print slower
6. adjust extrusion multiplier by testing various settings
Obviously some of the above references don't apply or are being observed.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your printer is capable of printing TPU out of the box, and very well if you upgrade the firmware to Marlin 2.0. That you're having problems like this suggests that you messed something up with the direct drive kit. TPU, being so flexible, is very sensitive to having any excess play in the path between the extruder gear and the hotend. I'm not familar with this particular direct drive kit, but knowing how the Ender 3's bowden tube works, with the PTFE extending all the way to where the nozzle seats, it seems likely that it was removed and replaced as part of the conversion, and if this was not done right, there are all sorts of ways the TPU could kink between the extruder gear and the nozzle, messing up the relationship of extruder moves to actual extrusion, and in particular messing up retraction completely.
Speaking of retraction, it **must be on, and properly configured** to print anything accurately. When you don't retract, or don't retract sufficiently, there is still high pressure at the nozzle even when you're not trying to extrude anything (during travel moves), and material will exit the nozzle, then **will be unavailable to extrude in sufficient quantity where it belongs later**. Advice to turn retraction off is just wrong, always.
If you use Marlin 2.0 with Linear Advance and calibrate the spring constant right for TPU, you can use the same retraction distance that works for PLA. If you're stuck with the original firmware that doesn't have it, you need to add to the retraction the length that the TPU will compress when printing at the speed you want to print at (and you will get inaccuracies when speed varies from that). I had to use 12 mm retraction with flexible filaments when using the original Ender 3 firmware and printing around 30 mm/s. This was with the bowden, so the distance needed may vary with your modified setup. (And again, check that nothing is wrong with it! Installation errors or product design flaws seem like the most likely cause here.)
Also, see this self-answer from when I first started printing with flexible filaments on an Ender 3. The biggest problem was the severe over-priming in Cura's default start gcode for the printer, which left so much excess pressure (filament compression) after priming that no amount of retraction would stop the stringing. Fixing that was the single biggest ingredient in getting rid of my stringing problems.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I just installed a direct drive myself and noticed it was stringing.
What fixed it for me was lowering the flow rate. Ultimately the E-steps most likely need to be recalibrated but just turning my flow rate down to 85 % got rid of all the stringing. Basically, I'm over extruding, since my slicer and Octoprint both have options for flow rate modifier I might not even touch the E-steps, and swap between Bowden and direct drive depending on the job.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Something similar happened to me and it was a combination of E steps calibration and a gap between the hot end and the PTFE tube. fixed both and ran a few temperature and retraction towers to set the values that worked for my TPU (sainsmart) You are charging a lot on how the material is delivered and manipulated by the printer when migrating to a direct drive
This video made it easier for me :) Hope this helps.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, tpu, stringing, direct-drive
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thread-12201 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12201 | Ender 3 home location | 2020-03-18T17:53:53.530 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 home location
I have an Ender 3 and I have a problem with auto home. I use auto home and then level the bed with the wheels beneath the bed. I then start a print and the first layer is well above the bed. Perhaps about a millimeter. If I stop the print at this point and level the bed so that the first layer prints the normal paper width above the bed, everything works fine.
The stops for the 3 axes seem to be in the right places and there is nothing noticeable obstructing them. When I use auto home it does touch the stops at all 3 axes. My belts seem to be tight and there is no movement of the bed if I try to jiggle it with my hand.
Is there a way to adjust the Z axis so that the auto home elevation and the elevation of first layer of the print will be the same?
This is an example of the first lines of G-code:
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:4724
;Filament used: 1.70716m
;Layer height: 0.16
;MINX:96.551
;MINY:96.545
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:138.448
;MAXY:138.455
;MAXZ:100.4
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.5.0
M140 S50
M105
M190 S50
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
It sounds like there’s two things that could be going wrong here:
1. Your starting G-code has some code in it that’s making it think that you want to treat a few layers up as `Z0`. If I were you I would minimize the start G-code until you get this sorted out. A quick fix would Be to add the following code to the end of your starting G-code:
```
G28: Homes all axis
G28 Z0: Homes the Z-axis
G29: Auto-bed-leveling (optional if you’ve already attached a leveling device)
G1 Z3 F5000: Raises the Z position up 3 mm relative to where it was (G1 tells the machine to move, Z3 tells it how much to move and along which axis, F5000 is the speed of movement)
G92 Z0.3: Treats the current position as Z = 0.3 (applying an offset of -0.3 and creating a sort of false home for the Z-axis).
```
Any commands made after this simple code will assume the print bed is lower than what it actually is (to account for any original gap between the nozzle and the print bed). If you want to have the nozzle raised, you’ll have to insert a negative value after the `G92` command.
2. You have a Z-offset set in your slicer software. This is a super easy fix if you find that you have one set, and it’s usually just because the slicer is using the preset for an Ender 3 with a glass bed. I would try setting it back to 0 if there is one already and try the G-code above.
Even if the starting G-code I provided doesn’t solve your problem you should still find the Z-Offset setting in your slicer software and set it down -0.1 mm at a time until your printer starts printing in the correct Z-Axis position.
Here’s an All3DP article that helped a ton when I first got started: Ender 3 (Pro) Z Offset: How to Adjust It
# Answer
> 0 votes
The Z stop can be loosened and moved up but it seems weird that it would need to be moved and I don't think that would fix your issue. The Z height should be the same for the auto home and printing. I auto home then disable steppers and slowly move to all 4 corners. I have caught myself resting my arm on the X axis and moving it down. If that happens I manually move the Z until it just barely presses the Z stop in when I hear the button click. I have heard some say that they got a warped bed. I wonder if that's the issue. A glass plate would be a good way to be sure or maybe using a straight edge to check.You could also double check the tightness on the wheels is just right. Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a really good setup video called "Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips" that has a few other tips that really helped me get set up well.
# Answer
> 0 votes
From the added G-code instructions you can see that the printer is instructed to go down to a height of 0.3 mm (`G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position`). If the printer nozzle is not at 0.3 mm height, there must be a Z-offset present in the firmware or incorrect placement of the endstop.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, calibration, z-axis, homing
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thread-18350 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18350 | Strange and layer shifts in X axis prints | 2021-11-08T18:37:17.560 | # Question
Title: Strange and layer shifts in X axis prints
This problem started technically just before a major move but I had hoped it was a "one off" issue... I started up my trusty Ender 3 today to find it may have actually gotten worse and I'm not entirely sure what the solution is. I was printing a replica of a weapon from a game and I noticed at one point through the print I had a rather extreme X layer shift now today after finally getting the printer setup I've come to find the problem may have actually gotten worse, additionally I'm having a strange gap issue on the top most layers of my prints and strange waving patterns. Now I should note my printer is printing within an enclosure and its temperatures have been adjusted for it but this is rather extreme.
# Answer
> 2 votes
As others have said, shifts in the X-axis are generally from belts at the wrong tension and loose frame screws. **Especially** after moving, I would say to check all of the frame screws and retighten them to their original torque. Moving a printer puts a lot of stress on its joints and hardware if it’s not handled correctly.
I **highly** recommend you print a quick X-axis belt tensioner for your printer. It takes no time at all and it did wonders for my Ender 3 when it was having issues with skipping and layer shifting.
Even if your belts feel tight they may not be at the correct tension. This is generally from the belts stretching out over time or the printer just rattling the belt pulleys loose. After printing the belt-tensioner for the X-axis you’ll be able to adjust the tension mid-print if it’s still skipping.
Honestly go ahead and print one for the Y-axis at the same time. Both shouldn’t take longer than an hour.
X-axis Belt Tensioner for Ender 3
Y-axis Belt Tensioner for Ender 3
If all else fails you can buy a new belt(I’d recommend one with some kind of reinforcements embedded in it) for like $10 on Amazon.
Also, as someone else said - it could be a connection short between your computer and printer If you’re printing straight from the USB cable. I’ve had a ton of trouble with that in the past which is why with the nurse three I decided to just put all of my prints on the SD card and start them from the screen on the printer, it saves on the headaches and you can at least rule out your PC and the Printing software as the culprits.
Good Luck!!
# Answer
> 1 votes
Some things that can cause this.
1. You eliminated the belt.
2. The extruder colliding with something rigid enough to cause it to lose track of the origin.
3. What seems most likely is intermittent power to your x-motor, so that the computer continues as if the motor moved when it didn't completely. This is a possible intermittent at different locations accociated with the motor.
I've seen a power glitch cause a single offset in print when the computer has battery backup, but the printer does not.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, pla, troubleshooting
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thread-18351 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18351 | Getting BTT filament sensor to work | 2021-11-08T19:07:48.990 | # Question
Title: Getting BTT filament sensor to work
(This is a pretty much duplicate post from one I put over on the Reddit, but it hasn't received a lot of traction over there so I figured I'd post):
Like many posts I've seen on the internet, I'm having trouble getting my BTT smart filament sensor to work.
**Relevant Specs about my printer**:
* Ender 3 Pro
* BTT E3 RRF Mainboard with IDEX module
* Marlin Firmware I've edited in ways I mention below
**What is going wrong**:
It triggers way too easily. Right as a print starts, it'll trigger and say I ran out of filament. And/or it'll make it maybe half a layer and then trigger.
**Steps I've taken**:
* I started by following the Teaching Tech YouTube video to get started and install it. Tried to match literally every change of his in the firmware I saw. Things like runout distance set to 7 and runout state set to low instead of high.
+ Quick note on those. In several places (like this) comments suggest changing the distance to more than 7 mm to make it less 'picky'. But in several comments (like here, and here), people suggest the official recommendation from BTT is 7 mm and there's a reason to set it at that. I've tried all sorts of distances and none seem to work.
+ In at least one place (like here) people suggest that even if you set it to 7 mm in the firmware, it doesn't always take effect and you have to go to the configuration menu in your printer and set it, then store the settings. I've done that as well.
+ I've set the runout state to either low or high, seems to still falsely trigger either way.
* The ~~only solution I haven't tried yet (will try tonight when I get home)~~ (did that , still no luck) is in this comment it suggests adding `M75` to my code to 'start the print job timer' so it won't trip 'after the initial 7 mm runout'. Could someone explain that one to me? Also, I feel like that's not it because even when I let it go through its paces and unload and then load, it'll trip again soon after.
**The problem:**
I just feel like it's still **way** too sensitive. And sure, in an ideal world I want it to detect all the things it's 'supposed' to detect like jams, tangles, etc... but I really just care the most about it noticing I ran out of filament. Are there any settings in the firmware or anywhere else I should take a look at?
My latest thought is that maybe I have the sensor mounted in a different direction than it should be? Every video or picture I see online looks like the filament is going the opposite direction compared to what I have, but I've also seen comments where it says that doesn't matter.
I also have seen comments like here where the author recommends a HUGE runout distance (50) as that could be a problem. I'm willing to try that.
# Answer
> -1 votes
I would comment but I don’t have enough reputation yet -
Are you using the Creality firmware, Marlin, RepRap, or the Stock BIGTREE firmware? Also, have you modified it at all?
If you’re still using the firmware that came on the printer or Marlin firmware this thread could offer some insight. Read down through all of the comments because several people had really good tips, and the OP actually posted an update with how he solved it:
> It seems that the settings stored in the printer overwrides the FILAMENT\_RUNOUT\_DISTANCE\_MM in the firmware. So I just went the the printer configuration -\> advance configuration -\> filament and then I changed the runout distance and stored the settings. Source
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bigtreetech, filament-sensor
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thread-18345 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18345 | Bad print bed adhesion of white PLA, no problems with transparent uncolored PLA? | 2021-11-07T22:21:10.727 | # Question
Title: Bad print bed adhesion of white PLA, no problems with transparent uncolored PLA?
I had problems with print bed adhesion when using white PLA (Arctic White) but no problems when using other colors. So I tried to print three bottom layers with transparent PLA and all other layers with white PLA. I did not change any setting and printed both tries one after another using the same .stl file.
There was some warping of the printed ring too. No problems when using transparent plus white PLA.
Right: white PLA only, left: transparent PLA bottom layers plus white PLA above. View of the bottom sides.
Has anyone experienced similar problems?
# Answer
Same G-code slice? The main cause of warping is temperature. If this is kept as a control variable and you have these results, it may be because of a different temperature the filament requires. Check the filament specs and adjust the bed/nozzle temperature to make the temperature difference smaller.
Edit: Another reason it might be needing different temperatures is because of absorbing moisture.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Problem was displaced by a factory reset of the 3D printer FlashForge Adventurer 3.
Right: white PLA only, left: transparent PLA bottom layers plus white PLA above. View of the bottom sides. No difference of print bed adhesion now.
The reason of the problem was not found, but print bed adhesion is good after the factory reset for both white and transparent PLA.
> 0 votes
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Tags: pla, adhesion
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thread-18362 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18362 | Ender 3 with Trianglelab matrix extruder | 2021-11-11T19:13:35.597 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 with Trianglelab matrix extruder
I ordered a matrix direct drive extruder from Trianglelab and printed two mounts for it.
The mounts I have printed are found here.
I have only printed the first and second part from the referenced link above.
Should these be enough to get the extruder mounted and start testing with it?
I have a hard time figuring out which way the extruder should be connected with these mounts.
# Answer
Unless the question is updated why a LulzBot TAZ printer part is used on the Ender 3, it is unclear why you would want to use the parts from the linked Thingiverse source; quote:
> These are the parts needed to mount a Trianglelab Matrix extruder to a Taz 5 and Workhorse.
The LulzBot concept uses the linear rods concept (Prusa i3 style) for the X-axis while the Ender 3 uses a wheel based carriage running on a 2020 aluminium extrusion profile. For comparison, see the image below to show the differences between the Ender 3 and the TAZ:
A specific mount for the Ender 3 is found here.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, extruder, direct-drive
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thread-15023 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15023 | What is causing the extruder stepper on my Ender 3 to skip steps? | 2020-12-12T20:40:03.983 | # Question
Title: What is causing the extruder stepper on my Ender 3 to skip steps?
I have a problem most likely similar to some reported by other users: the extruder stepper is visually skipping a step occasionally. It rapidly rotates in the direction opposite to the one it is supposed to turn.
I noticed the following:
* The extruder stepper jumps randomly - nothing specific in the pattern printed, position, etc.
* Stepper jumps more often on the infill, rarely on the walls.
Details about print:
* PLA (Devil Design - various colors, they don't matter)
* Filament guide installed on top, but not yet before the extruder (it is printing right now; I'm waiting for the ball bearings too)
* Filament mounted on the top - in the place defined by Creality
* The extruder is already replaced with the aluminium one
* The mainboard is SKR E3 mini V2 (replaced recently)
* 95% flow set in Cura
* Printing on glass, leveled bed (the jumping occurs on all layers, not only first)
* 215 °C hotend temperature, 60 °C bed temperature
* Stepper motor current settings (from Marlin menu): 580 for X, Y & Z, 650 for E1
Other observations:
* What's interesting is that the extruder motor jumps even if I manually unwind some filament, so the only force it has to overcome is pushing filament into the head.
* I made a quick DIY wooden spool holder to feed the filament almost horizontally. This seemed to make things worse - stepper jumped more often. I moved the spool to the top again, reducing jumping a little.
* Prints are done beautifully (after changing the motherboard) - no lost lines or layers, walls connected with infill, perfect first layer, etc.
What may be the cause of stepper motor jumping? How can I solve it? Does it pose a threat to the motor or stepper? I need to print the filament guide and spool holder with ball bearings to minimize the force required by the extruder motor, but then the stepper will probably jump during the prints. I already damaged the original mainboard because of the stuck filament, and I don't want to destroy another one.
---
This is how regular extruder retraction looks:
(10 seconds)
This is how stepper skipping looks:
(13 seconds)
---
Today I replaced the whole heat block (radiator, heater, thermistor and nozzle) to a new one (original, for now) and the motor stopped skipping - at least on the calibration cube. I will see, how will it perform on more complex prints.
However, even having the prior one in hands, I couldn't find the reason, why the motor was skipping - other than the fact, that I couldn't extract the bowden tube from the radiator (so maybe some filament was dripping inside?)
# Answer
> 0 votes
> I have a problem most likely very similar to some reported by other users: extruder stepper is visually skipping a step from time to time. It rapidly rotates in the direction opposite to the one it is supposed to rotate.
These two sentences are saying something totally different, and the latter is not what a skipped step looks like. It sounds like retraction, which is totally normal.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I had same issue. It is because filament broken inside mostly. If you are not using printer much, filaments effected from humid and broken easily.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, stepper
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thread-14419 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14419 | Removing test print from magnetic flexible paper coated build plate | 2020-09-13T14:09:28.113 | # Question
Title: Removing test print from magnetic flexible paper coated build plate
I have a Monoprice MP10 with magnetic flexible paper coated build plate and I have just tried printing bed level test which is, of necessity, very thin on the build plate.
Watching the item print, I saw that the bed level was obviously way way off at the back left corner and down the left side. I was printing with PLA. There was no point in letting the print continue so I stopped it, let the build plate cool down and tried to remove the print.
The bottom line and right hand side came off cleanly but the top left corner and all down the left side stuck firmly. As it was so thin a layer there is no chance of getting something underneath an edge without damaging the paper surface. I tried acetone but this had no effect other than turning the surface white and thin cracks appearing in the paper surface. Wiped down with alcohol which toned down the white but was no help in getting the thin layer of PLA off.
I tried reheating surface, no joy. Does anyone have a foolproof way of getting this off as soap and water don't work either?
# Answer
In my experience with the Creality magnetic textured build surface, it's easier to remove a thin print while the surface is still pretty warm -- probably between 35 °C and 40 °C -- as opposed to fully cooled to room temperature.
If the print is *very* thin, however (as when the nozzle is much too close to the build surface) printing over it may be the only sensible option. In fact, if the print residue is too thin to get a scraper under, it likely won't show in another print with the same color/type filament, so you can just ignore it unless you're changing color or material.
BTW, don't use acetone. For *anything*, unless nothing else will do the job. Too flammable, too toxic, and it dissolves stuff you don't want to dissolve (but won't do anything notable to PLA, which is why you can't do acetone vapor smoothing with PLA).
> 2 votes
# Answer
You could try freezing your bed with cooling spray around the print and then wait some seconds and try peel it off.
I had the problem once on my PEI sheet and it did help. I used this spray: Spray
But make sure you don't break any electric parts on your printer.
> 1 votes
# Answer
You could print something on top of it, like a giant square covering the whole affected area. You should use some slightly higher temperatures than usual to make it adhere good (e.g. 75 °C bed 210 °C hotend), make sure that you print several layers.
There are 2 options removing the new print when there is an elevated temperature in the bed left after printing, or removing after a complete cool down.
> 1 votes
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Tags: adhesion, monoprice-mp-10
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thread-18144 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18144 | Is it possible to extract printed part with a fan? | 2021-09-26T17:41:36.840 | # Question
Title: Is it possible to extract printed part with a fan?
I'm trying to figure out how to automatically extract the part after it was printed.
One of the ideas is to wait until the bed get cooled enough (let's say to 40-50 °C, usually the part can be just slide of at this bed temperature) and turn on the powerful fan blowing off the part to a tray or something.
Is this setup feasible?
I'm printing with ABS on an opal glass.
# Answer
You can do this provided the part releases consistently after cooling. Your filament choice may cause problems, though. ABS is prone to warping and a fan constantly blowing on the part would make it worse. The second thing to consider would be the release agent. I assume you are using gluestick or something similar on the bed. This may be pulled off the bed after a couple prints.
> 2 votes
# Answer
In theory you could knock the item off the build plate and into a bin by positioning the print head behind the part and then pushing.
However your build plate would need to have a smooth front edge, so no clips in the way.
You'd also want to have some delay to let the bed cool down before attempting this, and have spare belts on hand for the day the installed belt breaks.
A fan may work IF you can control it to come on after the part has finished printing, AND your printer will release a finished part given time. Also, your finished part must be strong enough to survive the impact and fall without damage, else what's the point?
Also, your effective print volume would shrink - there has to be enough space at the back to drop the print head behind the part using gcode, and then slide the bed backward until the part falls off. You couldn't use the back ~75mm of the bed.
Personally I always have to use a scraper and occasionally a light hammer tap, so a fan wouldn't do anything.
---
If I were doing this, I'd either pony up and buy one of those Creality belt-fed printers that have a rolling platform, and drop parts off the front. The CR-30 https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/cr-30-infinite-z-belt-3d-printer or other manufacturers would have the same.
The other more homebrew option would be to consider where the bed ends up after job is done, and then have some kind of "wiper" mechanism that comes from the side and pushes the part over and off the bed. It would have to be low enough to get any brim and priming lines out of the way too. Since the printer probably can't control this, you'd be looking at an external controller like a computer running a print server, orchestrating the wiper and then starting the next job.
You'll also want a really big roll of filament, or a filament-out sensor so you're not printing air.
> 0 votes
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Tags: automation
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thread-1292 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1292 | Should I enclose my 3D Printer? | 2016-06-10T04:09:11.657 | # Question
Title: Should I enclose my 3D Printer?
I have a home built RepRap with all sides open..
Would there be any advantage to enclosing the print area in acrylic?
# Answer
> 19 votes
It is hard to tell whether you personally should enclose your printer. However, you asked for the advantages and I will name some of them on which one can base a decision.
A 3D printer enclosure
* helps to keep the temperature of the whole print at controlled levels, if you use a heating element, thermocouple and pid regulator. This is one of the most direct uses of the enclosure, which can be achieved by almost no other means. One could sloppily say it does for the whole print what the heatbed does for the initial layers. Controlling the temperature can be beneficial for layer adhesion and can help against delamination problems. This can go as far as fixing cracks and complete delamination (Thanks to @J. Roibal for bringing these cracks to my attention in the comments)
* keeps dangerous fumes controlled. Here you can find a scientific study about it, published in Atmospheric Environment 79, titled 'ultrafine particle emission from desktop 3D printers, on exactly that topic. You can embed a filter with a fan in your housing to filter the air from all dangerous fumes that are created when melting certain plastic types. It could just circulate the air inside the chamber or get the filtered air out of the housing. This is another use which cannot be achieved otherwise (afaik).
* can keep humidity away from your printer. This is helpful for filaments that attract water (and don't print well under that circumstance). This should be realized separately for stored filament, too, adding some silica gel to regulate humidity. (Thanks to @Obmerk Kronen in the comments)
* minimizes losses of your heatbed. This happens in at least two ways, - the heated bed will also heat the surroundings, that is the inside of the enclosure. By raising its temperature, the temperature difference and hence heat loss is minimized. Also wind, introducing high fluctuations in the transfered (i.e. lost) heat is minimized. In that sense, it also
* shuts out any wind for print temperature stability. Also dust and particles that could be blown on the print will be shut out (thanks to the addition of dust/particles: @Obmerk Kronen). This is a benefit that comes without having a heated chamber or filter.
* helps to keep the printer clean in between use. Your axes will thank you being free from dust.
* reduces smell and noise. If you use the printer in you living area, that alone can be a great benefit.
* makes sure that your printer is safe during storage, nothing will fall on it.
* can look pretty nice and add to the style of your printer, even if selfmade ;-)
There are obviously also downsides, as: connected work/money to make it, increased space used for the printer, and, if not well made for that purpose (which it should be), increased difficulty in repairs and maintenance of the printer itself (i.e. to get the printer out of the enclosure).
# Answer
> 11 votes
@kamuro provided an excellent answer, so I'll just try to add by playing devil's advocate.
Possible things to look out for:
* Inappropriate enclosure could result in more temperature differences, resulting in higher rates of warping and delamination. For example, if you do not enclose the top of your machine, then the temperature at the beginning of your print will be potentially different than further into the print.
* Post-print delamination/warping. The same can be said for a printer without an enclosure. But if you are too eager to remove the print directly after printing, you run the risk of essentially "air quenching" the part. Instead, let the part sit in the warmer ambient temperature and become fully solid again.
* Enclosures are not a "fix-all". Enclosures are merely a means of reducing variability in your process. As an operator, you should still fine-tune your process by finding the right extruder/HBP temperatures and quality materials to ensure repeatable, quality prints.
* kamuro touched on this a bit, but difficulty performing maintenance. Speaking from experience, removing acrylic panels from a machine not designed to have an enclosure is pretty annoying. However, this could be alleviated with a better design. I chose to bolt my panels to my machine, but a snap design would fair better. Specifically, adjusting my belt tension became very difficult on my Replicator Dual after adding acrylic panels.
* Don't make it too hot. I made a rookie mistake after adding an enclosure to my machine by using a space heater in the room next to the printer. The space heater oscillated and occasionally directed the heat at the machine. After a few failed prints, I noticed that the extra ambient heat in the room was causing the ABS arms for my HBP to warp under the heat/weight of the HBP. The enclosure wasn't the root cause, but it helped trap the extra heat inside the machine.
# Answer
> 2 votes
People add a "passive heated chamber" when they are printing in ABS. However I personally think the best reason to have a custom chamber is so you can add an air filter. Adding an air filter will reduce your exposure to fine air particulates. It is generally considered a bad idea to breath in particles from plastic.
For PLA you will not want an air chamber. If you want to do an air scrubber they you will need air input to avoid the heat chamber from getting hot.
On that note as we see in the z18, PLA can benefit from an Active heat chamber, but you will have to figure out what the optimal temp is.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Consider the environmental conditions where your printer is.
I have my printer in a garage, where the door is sometimes open, closed, or slightly ajar. This leads to gusts of wind, causing lifting and ruining multiple prints.
I surrounded the printer on three sides with walls made from the original packing foam, and my lifting problems have utterly vanished.
The top and front side are open, so I have a "four sided" box. Heat does not build up, but the variable wind gusts are minimised. Access is slightly reduced, but not a lot.
Ender 3 V2, printing the "Ender" brand of PLA from Creality. Bed is at 55 °C and print head is 200 °C.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If you will be printing PLA, **no**, or at least not without active cooling of the chamber. PLA's glass transition temperature is sufficiently low that the ambient temperature matters a lot to whether layer N can cool enough before layer N+1 is laid, in order to have a firm surface to extrude against and bond to. This especially matters with overhangs and complex geometry. If you use a heated bed for adhesion, the chamber temperature will tend to reach nearly the bed temperature, keeping your print soft the entire time. In a worst case, it might even cause heat creep and jam the heatbreak. Even if you're not using a heated bed, waste heat from the hotend will warm the chamber somewhat; expect temperatures of at least 35-40 ˚C rather than a (preferred) ambient 19-22 ˚C.
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Tags: reprap, cooling, knowledgebase, enclosure
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thread-18232 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18232 | Issue with Ender 3 bed | 2021-10-12T16:03:55.683 | # Question
Title: Issue with Ender 3 bed
I have an Ender 3 and I'm experiencing an issue where it won't print on the edges. Near the outside of the bed plastic just peels away. Bed is level - verified multiple times.
The nozzle appears to be dragging the freshly extruded filament away before it has a chance to cool. Straight lines and wide curves print well about 30 % of the time, and sharp corners and curves won't print at all.
The printer works fine in the center, but the outer 3 cm or so are unusable. Not sure what could cause this. I leveled the bed multiple times - even told the printer to move without touching it, just to eliminate incorrect leveling by slight play in the rollers. Head is the same distance from the plate in the center as it is along the edges. No irregular high or low areas - bed is perfectly flat.
Is this a known issue with the Ender 3? How can it be fixed?
I am using the stock fiberglass bed with the BuildTak surface.
# Answer
I used to have the same problem. Put masking or scotch tape on the bed, it should help with adhesion. I think the problem is that the bed is very dirty with finger grease and other things.
> 1 votes
# Answer
It sounds like it may be due to uneven heating. Check with an IR thermometer to make sure. If you're sure the bed is clean and has even heating, you may want to try a different surface. G10 is cheap and almost always perfectly flat.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Try reducing the print speed and cleaning the bed with acetone before each print.
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, heated-bed, adhesion
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thread-18381 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18381 | What filaments are appropriate for a case that will contain mains voltage wiring? | 2021-11-16T23:57:43.777 | # Question
Title: What filaments are appropriate for a case that will contain mains voltage wiring?
I have some relay boards which I want to build into a case for my Pi. The relays are GPIO controlled and will turn on/off things like a 12 volt DC light, and the 240 volt 50 hertz AC printer itself. The relays are rated for these levels and current draws.
However I would prefer to put the pi and its relays inside a case. No commercial case exists to neatly hold the relays, so I have to design and print something.
* What filaments can and can't be used to encase mains voltages?
* What other considerations should be accounted for - minimum thickness?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Any filament except made-to-be-conductive metal infused filaments should be capable of acting as a suitable insulator, but you'll also want to consider things like failure modes under overheating, mechanical damage, whether it might be subject to spills of conductive fluids, etc. These are not so much a matter of filament choice as structural design and safety design on the electrical level (proper fuses, etc.), and may involve compliance with electrical code. I think those questions are outside the scope of 3D Printing SE, but would be appropriate on a sister site like DIY or Electronics.
From the 3D printing side, you might want to avoid PLA unless you can guarantee shutoff if anything exeeds about 55˚C, since you'll quickly get warping and loss of structural integrity past that. Although I do have an under-hood automotive part in PLA (wiper fluid connector) that's held up fine for a few years now. PETG or ABS/ASA would probably be preferable.
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Tags: pla, filament-choice, power-supply
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thread-18382 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18382 | Fixing stringing within <80% flow print out is weak | 2021-11-17T03:22:55.933 | # Question
Title: Fixing stringing within <80% flow print out is weak
Here are the details:
* Creality CR 10-S5
* BLTouch leveling sensor
* Micro Swiss Direct Drive filament upgrade kit
* Bed is 66 °C.
I tried dozens of temperatures starting at 205 °C and going all the way down to 180 °C pretty much 1 °C at a time. The present temperature of 188 °C seems to generate a higher stickiness to the bed than other temperatures.
I have also adjusted the flow rate down to 47% and that, although it did help with the stringing, didn't fix it completely and made the whole print super weak. I have discovered going below 80% is structurally a bad idea. I wouldn't mind having it at 90% either.
I am trying different retraction speeds and distances now currently testing 5 mm and 70 mm/s retraction. Previously I tried 4 mm with 60 mm/s and it didn't help.
Using a lower filament flow rate (about \<60%) did prevent it from going all the way across at approx 50 mm/s, but alas \<60% is too weak structurally. And didn't solve it completely. The tips had a Y-shaped split top on both sides with the one side of the Y being straight as it is part of the tower.
Any suggestions to rid me of this are welcome. Reminder flow rate below 80% is too weak, and 188 °C is preferred.
# Answer
The picture looks like classic Cura misbehavior - it's skipping retractions that need to happen because it's done "too many" already. You should be able to confirm this by looking at the gcode in an analyzer that shows retractions or watching the print. Set "Minimum Extrusion Distance Window" to 0 to fix the problem.
You should not be reducing flow at all, and certainly not by more than a few percent. Put it back to 100%.
> 2 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-cr-10, stringing
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thread-18385 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18385 | What is this stepper motor connector called? | 2021-11-17T06:03:21.683 | # Question
Title: What is this stepper motor connector called?
I'm struggling to find the name of a connector I just broke, so I can order a new one.
It's a six pin nylon terminal, that plugs into a set of header pins on a stepper motor.
What do I search for to find these?! Also, how would I go about finding something like this in the future? I seem to struggle to find connectors.
# Answer
Short answer: It's probably 6 pin JST PH
Long answer:
Without seeing the socket, it's hard to say for sure, however most Nema 17 stepper motors use 6 pin JST PH connectors with 2.0mm pitch on the motor side. Many control boards use JST XH connectors with 2.5mm pitch on the board side. The two are not compatible with each other due to a difference in pitch and the locking mechanism.
Looking at the sockets there is a clear visual difference: PH has a wide cutout while XH has two slots.
PH vs XH
The difference on the plug side is more subtle. XH has small hooks that grab onto the slots while PH has not.
There's a good reference at mattmillan.com which helps to identify different types of JST connectors.
EDIT: Usually the easiest and the cheapest option is to buy a pre-made stepper motor cable that fits your control board. However if it's not available in a length you need or re-wiring is hard, you will need connectors and a crimp tool with jaws specifically made for these types of connectors. The cheapest option is probably to borrow one if you can, these can cost a pretty penny.
Answering the second part of your question is tricky. Searching through parts catalogs is too time consuming. Using google image search or google lens to search with images taken from multiple angles is a good start to narrow it down but does not guarantee success.
> 9 votes
# Answer
In an attempt to salvage my (sadly) previously incorrect answer (at the bottom), *and* to add to anttix's superlative answer, here is a quote from Stepper cable for MKS Boards pinout, which clearly shows the difference - locking and non-locking, and pitch difference (note the thickness of the plastic between each individual pin socket) - in the two plugs:
> This pinout information will help you to use our 1 meter stepper cables correctly. Cable was made to be compatible with 6-pin JST connectors on NEMA 17 stepper on one side and 4-pin JST connector on other side. These cables are compatible with MKS BASE and MKS Gen boards that we sell in our store.
>
> For compatibility with Anet board you will need to swap 2 wires - RED and BLUE on the 4 pin board side connector.
Whilst they aren't labeled *PH* and *XH*, it is pretty safe to assume that:
* For the control board, the ***4 pin** female connector* on the **left** is the **XH**, and;
* For the stepper motor, the ***6 pin** female connector* on the **right** is **PH**.
The mattmillan.com link in anttix's answer, whilst informative, unfortunately doesn't show both sides of the 4 or 6 pin connector.
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For the sake of completeness, but at the risk of going *off-topic*, the connector to the printer controller board is often a DuPont, and not a JST, *particularly in*, but not limited to, Arduino (Atmel/AVR based) boards.
From the same website, this page Stepper cable for RAMPS pinout, shows the DuPont connector to the control board and the JST-PH-6P connector to the stepper motor (I've not fixed the typos in the quoted text):
> This pinout information will help you to use our 1 meter stepper cables correctly. Cable was made to be compatible with 6-pin JST connectors on NEMA 17 stepper on one side and RAMPS board connector (also called dupont connector) on other side. Main feature of RAMPS stepper header and this cable is that you can reverse stepper direction by turning connector on RAMPS 180 degree.
>
> This cable is aslo compatible with CNC V3 shields for Arduino UNO and other electronic boards for 3D Printers and CNC control. Please observe the following piut diagram to make sure that your particular electronic board is compatible.
**Note**: I'm not promoting this particular website, it just so happens that they have the best comparison photos.
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Maybe It is most likely ***not***... JST XH 2.54 6 pin female
and the reverse side, showing the locking, with the male PCB connector
> 2 votes
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Tags: electronics, stepper
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thread-18390 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18390 | What is the largest file (in terms of storage space\mb) that can be printed on an Elegoo Saturn? | 2021-11-17T15:53:45.243 | # Question
Title: What is the largest file (in terms of storage space\mb) that can be printed on an Elegoo Saturn?
In terms of Mb, rather than volume, what is the largest file size that the Elegoo Saturn 3D printer is capable of handling in a single print?
How is this limit determined, for example, is it due to a limit on the board, or in the Chitubox file format, or in some other way?
# Answer
> 0 votes
Not an Elegoo Saturn, but an Anycubic printer is my device. I've noted that each layer is loaded from the flash drive moments prior to the burn/flash/print. I suspect this method is used in many printers.
If you consider that even a large LCD panel requires only to present an open path for UV light or a closed path for each pixel, the amount of data required for a full printed layer or a fully empty layer is quite small in terms of bytes.
Non-monochrome LCD panels would use more data, as each pixel is defined in three colors (or none) compared to monochrome (on/off).
I believe that my printer uses the Chitubox board system, making the similarities to yours a valid comparison.
Your limitations would be based on the size of the medium containing the file as well as the physical size of the print.
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Tags: file-formats, elegoo-saturn
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thread-18394 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18394 | Can I put a glass plate in a Replicator+? | 2021-11-19T02:41:01.390 | # Question
Title: Can I put a glass plate in a Replicator+?
I have been reading that glass plates are really good, and the bed plates with the Makerbot Replicator+ are all not so good (I have had curling issues).
So here's the thing: thus far I've been able to cut the curling down by a) putting down a layer of gaffer tape, this seems to work well, and b) some Aqua Net which also seemed to work pretty well too at least so far (fingers crossed on latest print). I also found that simply putting a plastic bin on top of the Replicator + and using paper sheets (basically a huge pad with post-it strips on the top that I cut up) seems to do a reasonable job of keeping the temperature even -- the Z18 I use never seems to have curling problems and I suspect that temperature constancy is a huge factor.
Anyhow, I wondered what would happen if I tried to put a glass plate on top of the bed. I am assuming that I'd have to set the Z offset to like, a whole 4 mm or something crazy and that I'd probably end up with a printer crushing the extruder against a hard surface and all kinds of terrible things would ensue.
To be clear, I was thinking, get a sheet of tempered glass, clip it onto the build plate with like, binder clips or something. Replicator + build plates aren't heated, so I figured at the very least I ran the risk of having an extruder shoved forcefully into a glass plate which then proceeds to break in half.
So thoughts? Is putting a glass sheet down a really stupid idea? Like crazy stupid? It's not like I have a super duper urgent problem here, but I was curious.
# Answer
Yes, you can add a sheet of glass to virtually any 3D printer.
**But**, having a heated bed is pretty essential to printing on glass. Although it is possible to use a glass bed on an unheated 3D printer, it isn't recommended to do that as you'll be running into issues with adhesion.
Glass beds work best when you apply heat and an adhesive like glue stick, hairspray (both are pretty obsolete nowadays) or preferable dedicated print adhesion sprays (3DLAC, DimaFix, MagicGoo, etc...).
Glass, when heated will provide:
* A very flat surface (aids in leveling)
* A very flat and shiny/mirror finish bottom layer (great when gluing halves together)
* A means to take out the build surface with the print to cool elsewhere (when the glass cools, the prints usually dislodges itself due to differences in temperature expansion)
* A means to quickly change the build surface to start a next print on a new sheet of glass
* A surface that can easily be cleaned with common household products (glass does provide enough resistance against more aggressive cleaning solutions as well)
> 2 votes
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Tags: build-plate, replicator+
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thread-15843 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15843 | Ender 3 V2 Extruder getting hot | 2021-03-11T19:00:46.407 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 V2 Extruder getting hot
I'm still fairly new to 3D printing; got my Ender 3 V2 for Christmas last year. Recently the tension arm in the stock extruder snapped, so I bought and installed an all-aluminum replacement. My first successful(ish) print since installing it lasted two to three hours before I noticed the filament wasn't feeding. It had softened and clogged the lead-in to the Bowden tube just past the tooth gear. I figure the problem comes from (and what probably broke the original plastic) heat buildup; the new aluminum frame was VERY hot to the touch. I also noticed that the extruder motor was rather hot as well.
So you all know where I am: all I've printed with is PLA at 195 °C. Since changing extruders, I was getting over extrusion and dropped it to 185 °C and increased the retraction from 5 mm to 6.5 mm. The new one doesn't have (easily) adjustable tension, but the tension felt as strong as I had it on my old one, so I left it alone. I currently print within an enclosure, one of Creality's foil-lined ones since my printer is located in the garage (this is more for dust, but for longer prints I felt it was good to have since at the time it was getting very cold at night in the garage).
I don't think it's heat creep, since that meant it went all the way up the Bowden tube. My first guess is the ambient heat inside the enclosure. I am currently trying a new print with the top and side openings folded up to allow airflow. But I welcome more experienced suggestions and input.
### Additional info
I think I was getting away with the low temperature (185 °C) because my printing enclosure held heat so well. I'm attempting to print outside the enclosure today to start removing variables to my problem, if it under-extrudes, I'll bump the temperature up again.
Please note that I replaced *just the frame*.
I wouldn't know how to adjust the voltage \[of the Z-stepper\] if indeed the \[pre-set factory calibration is incorrect and causing the stepper to heat up\]. The new tension arm is a bit tighter than I had it set on my old, but I can't imagine it's making enough resistance to overwork the motor without seeing other issues first.
I didn't see any signs of Heat Creep when I pulled out the filament. The only softening I saw was in the direct drive; it had been pushed into a conical shape that plugged the port into the Bowden just past the gears. I'm still leaning towards an issue with the direct drive (is that what it's called? still learning the terms). the aluminum was too hot to touch and I had to wait 10 minutes before I could safely depress the tensioner and pull the filament out. That or the motor is overheating trying to pull Filament through.
The motor driving the filament is on the opposite side of the Teflon tube, mounted to the vertical frame - it is *not* on the nozzle side of the Teflon tube.
# Answer
You could still get heat creep with a Bowden tube. It has different characteristics. Instead of jamming up in the direct drive, the filament can melt too far upwards into the heat break where it can refreeze and jam. The characteristic, if you can pull out the filament, is widened filament extending into the heat break.
See Air printing/jamming midway through raft creation
and
What are ways to avoid heat creep?
Adding fans to an enclosure improves the temperature control in the enclosure.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I had this problem when I switched to the aluminum dual gear extruder. The spring was too strong and was crushing the filament out of its round shape into more of an oval profile as it fed into the Bowden tube. This caused excess friction in the Bowden tube, which stressed the extruder stepper motor and caused it to heat up, which transferred through to the aluminum dual drive. This in turn softened the filament in the drive and cause it to lose even more shape, increasing the friction in the tube and further stressing the stepper in a self-perpetuating cycle.
No print lasted more than a couple of hours before the filament jammed in the extruder and I was air printing. The solution was to remove the stronger yellow spring and replace it with the weaker bare metal spring that came with the stock extruder. It's not strong enough to distort the filament and problem solved.
If you are using the stock extruder then the source of friction maybe somewhere else in the filament feed chain.
> 1 votes
# Answer
*Answer created from octopus8's comments. If octopus8 wants to post their own answer, this wiki answer can be deleted.*
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185 °C is quite ok for several PLAs I have when printing slow.
Honestly, I couldn't believe that the heat can go up the heatsink and Bowden tube to make extruder frame hot. So maybe your extruder's stepper motor is just getting hot heats up all metal elements (or a combination of both)? Did you replace only frame or also the stepper motor? Maybe the voltage is too high? I think voltages might be not calibrated well in factory, because my Z stepper in Ender 3 V2 also is getting really hot since I bought the printer (so far I added radiator, but I plan to regulate this voltage).
> The new tension arm is a bit tighter than I had it set on my old, but I can't imagine it's making enough resistance to overwork the motor without seeing other issues first.
I agree with your judgement. Regarding the voltage: first I am not sure if my copy of v4.2.2 mainboard has TMC2208 stepper drivers, or some older HR4988. I would need to determine that first, then find a valid formula for Vref. Actual voltage is tuned using potentiometer next to corner of stepper's small radiator. You can see here an example of this process. One problem is that Ender 3 V2 has the mainboard accessible from the bottom, so I would need something like garage pit to operate...
As you can see, it is important to not touch the screwdriver's metal bar, and anyhow include your body's capacity to this circuit, or you may break things. There are also ceramic screwdrivers - but I already bought two and still my best option is sculpted from 3mm filament. Plastic or ceramic tool will need you to measure voltage separately from turning potentiometer. So the idea of connecting voltmeter to small metal screwdriver is very handy, but you have to be careful to touch only plastic parts.
> 0 votes
# Answer
*Answer taken from Seradhe's comment. If Seradhe posts their own answer, then this wiki answer can be deleted.*
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Sorry for the long delay, but I wanted to post a follow up to conclude this.
I printed outside of my enclosure with no problem. Best guess is that the sealed enclosure wasn't bleeding off heat very well, and the aluminum feeder (being aluminum) was just soaking up the heat non-stop. Fine for short prints but anything over three hours it would get hot enough to soften the filament. I'm currently printing housings for some extra PC fans I have and framing in a vent system to keep it from getting too hot in the future
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, extruder
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thread-18372 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18372 | What is the best glue for the task of assembling a 3D printed part with other materials? | 2021-11-14T00:07:35.113 | # Question
Title: What is the best glue for the task of assembling a 3D printed part with other materials?
I have printed some connectors from PLA, in order to make a frame for a "tent" cover for my Ender3 printer
Since printing rods would be a long process with likely poor results, I'm using some cheap thin-walled metal tubes as the main structure, and printing the corners.
I plan on using 2 part epoxy to secure the metal rods into the sockets in my printed part, but can find no real chart of what glue to use with which FDM plastics.
**Is 2 part epoxy a suitable adhesive for PLA and other hard items?**
# Answer
> 0 votes
Confirmed - 2 part epoxy works fine between PLA and other things.
I used "selleys" brand, and found that the fastest-setting 5 minute version worked fine, but on paper produces a "weaker" bond than the slow-curing one.
The 5 minute version also has a distinct odour of cat pee, which is not present in the slow version.
Downside, the slow version took 2 days to harden completely, but my item is definitely secured together well.
https://www.selleys.co.nz/products/adhesives/heavy-duty-repairs/selleys-araldite-super-strength/
NOTE that the above link says
> Not suitable for bonding plastics such as Polypropylene and Polyethylene
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Tags: pla, glue
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thread-18411 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18411 | When do you need a silicone sock? What problem does it solve? | 2021-11-21T17:46:06.583 | # Question
Title: When do you need a silicone sock? What problem does it solve?
I'm returning to 3d printing and there's all sorts of new things going on. One of which is a silicone sock. I suspect it's part of the engineering where you want to keep certain parts hot, and certain parts cold, and it assists with that, but I'm not sure. Internet searches have been degrading, and have degraded a lot in the past year or so, so I can't find anything on the subject on how and why, just products.
When do you need a silicone sock? What problem does it solve?
My Ender 3v2 came with one, but apparently previous generations did not. My other printers do not have an option for them.
# Answer
A silicone sock helps keep the heat from the hot end from radiating down onto the freshly-printed parts, which have a blower fan cooling them.
The sock also helps keep the hot end hot and away from that stream of room-temperature cooling air blowing at the part.
As such, the sock is a thermal isolator, helping to keep the hot bits hot and the cooler bits cool.
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Additionally, silicone rubber is pretty good at not sticking to hot filament. If your print goes bad and produces "spaghetti" then the sock will mitigate how much plastic gets stuck to the hot end.
> 7 votes
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Tags: hotend
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thread-18408 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18408 | Clearing persistent partial clog after printing nylon | 2021-11-21T09:56:38.770 | # Question
Title: Clearing persistent partial clog after printing nylon
My Prusa i3 MK3S printer experienced a partial clog last time I was printing with nylon.
Although I've experienced clogs and partial clogs before, all the usual tricks I've tried have not worked this time; using an acupuncture needle to dislodge the blockage, running cleaning floss filament through at 285 °C, as well as numerous hot and cold pulls.
Despite all of the above, and being able to run some filament through the nozzle manually, as soon as I start to try and print, there is too much resistance for the extruder to force the filament through the nozzle and the Bondtech gears just grind up the filament instead of extruding it.
I've also removed the PTFE tube and checked that and it's in perfect condition.
Is there anything else I can try to try and clear the blockage? I'm highly reluctant to change the nozzle, as last time I did this, I bent the heatbreak despite following Prusa's instructions to the letter - the nozzle was just too seized in the heat block, I assume with degraded/encrusted filament.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I always used electric guitar strings. They are 0.05 mm smaller than the nozzle and because of the texture it scratches off any material that is stuck. Plus since it's not hard there's is almost no chance to damage the nozzle
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Tags: prusa-i3, troubleshooting, extrusion, underextrusion, maintenance
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thread-18373 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18373 | Sporadic thermal runaway E1 error on Ender 3 Pro, continues after thermistor replacement. What could be the cause? | 2021-11-14T10:36:22.587 | # Question
Title: Sporadic thermal runaway E1 error on Ender 3 Pro, continues after thermistor replacement. What could be the cause?
My Ender 3 Pro started throwing the Thermal Runaway E1 error last week. Previous to that I had not modified or changed anything on the printer in months, other than move it's location. I replaced the thermistor yesterday and set off a test print but got the same error.
Is this an issue with the motherboard? Or with the heater cartridge?
Printer specs:
* Ender 3 Pro
* Creality 4.2.7 silent motherboard
* all metal dual gear extruder
* Glass bed
* stock everything else
# Answer
I solved this issue by using a multimeter to measure the resistance across both the thermistor and the heater cartridge. The resistance for the Ender 3 Pro are:
* Thermistor ~ 100k ohms
* Heater Cartridge ~ 14.4 ohms
My thermistor showed a resistance within the correct value, however my heater cartridge had a resistance of 0 ohms.
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, thermal-runaway
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thread-18413 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18413 | What OEM is Inland PETG+? | 2021-11-21T20:00:59.077 | # Question
Title: What OEM is Inland PETG+?
I have a local Microcenter and got some cool orange PETG+. I've never printed with PETG before, but this PETG+ stuff seems flexible and weak. I printed a random part with some thin walls, and when I squeezed it, I broke the thin walls. Interestingly, not across layer lines. The same part in ASA (or ABS? I can't recall) is sufficiently strong and durable, and much less flexible.
I'm reprinting at 100% infill (the first one was 20%), but looking at the place that it broke, I don't see infill. It's ~2 mm thick there, so I'm pretty sure that it's solid. I printed at 240 °C, and my reprint is going at 250 °C.
I'd like to check what this PETG+ stuff is better at than regular PETG, so I'd like to look at what the manufacturer has to say about it, and the rest of the internet. Who makes this?
We know that Inland PLA+ is made by eSun, and when I mentioned that to the local Microcenter 3D printer expert, he said as much too. Here's a reddit post speculating.
Product page
# Answer
> 1 votes
I talked to the guy at the local Micro Center. He said that Inland PETG+ was OEM'd by eSun, and that Inland PETG was OEM'd by Polymaker.
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Tags: petg
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thread-18418 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18418 | Offline CAD software for beginners | 2021-11-22T01:40:18.537 | # Question
Title: Offline CAD software for beginners
I have used OpenSCAD to design a couple of basic things. However, I'm incredibly frustrated by the current state of CAD software: it's all browser based, or requires an internet connection. Or has a learning curve like a cliff.
Are there any offline, nonsubscription, no-account-needed CAD softwares meant for 3D printing enthusiasts that don't have a degree in CAD?
I've seen plenty of tutorials that make it all look easy, and the softwares I have tried just don't do anything.
OpenSCAD is good for blocky well defined shapes and things, but right now I want to make a simple design to hold up a dowel. I've tried Blender and can't figure out how to give a dimension. Same for Sketchup Make 2017. I can't find a useful button in FreeCAD. I've tried Fusion 360 a while ago, but I hear that it recently took a major turn for the worse.
I want to design some stuff without giving away my digital soul in the process.
# Answer
I'm a fan of OpenSCAD but recognize the limitations within the program. Part of the feature bundle of OpenSCAD is the parametric aspect. If you want to aim in that direction and can handle a GUI type of CAD program, consider to check out SolveSpace. All images courtesy of linked site.
Additionally, there is a Tutorial link on the site with a series of lessons to assist the transition to the program. The image below is the introductory tutorial part creation.
It's heavily keyboard biased, but for each key shortcut, there's an icon/GUI button option. As with many CAD programs, using the keyboard can be faster than searching for a sometimes-indistinct icon for a specific operation.
It's just an opinion, but Fusion 360 hasn't necessarily taken a turn for the worse, especially at the free hobbyist level. Change can be difficult, especially for us more mature computer uses (IBM 5150, anyone?) and F360 has managed to relocate/hide a number of features. It's a matter of finding them, but that adds to the learning curve.
> 1 votes
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Tags: cad, openscad
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thread-18420 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18420 | Low fidelity 3D printer for plastic waste | 2021-11-22T06:43:03.243 | # Question
Title: Low fidelity 3D printer for plastic waste
Is there such thing as a 3D printer with a very large diameter nozzle, that can make low fidelity, large and fast prints? I'm picturing a soft serve ice-cream machine on a gantry, with a hopper. You feed it shredded plastic, and it prints bricks, or boards.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes these exist. 3D printers using pellets is not uncommon for industry, but for the user at home this might be a different question. Pellets are the pre-fabricate before it is extruded into filament (small balls/cylinders of plastic).
*Random image showing a variety of pellets in different colors*
There are even processes to turn used plastic into pellets, so if you combine it all this should be very doable. The problem is to get a consistent type of waste plastic to feed your machine. The size of the nozzle doesn't matter, as long as your shredding, compressing and heating process can keep up with the flow you need. It would be an excellent idea to get rid of plastic waste and turning these into building bricks e.g. for insulation of heat.
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*I've seen prototype printers printing PEEK from pallets having a nozzle (slot) diameter of several millimeters.*
# Answer
> 0 votes
You can certainly get large nozzles, but the material for extrusion still needs to be consistent. So any chunked plastic would have to be melted and that will produce an erratic flow at the extruder.
By reforming your shredded plastic into a consistent string of filament, then the printer has a steady supply of material to use. There are already filament extruders for the small shop, but they're still expensive for the home user. The main problems are getting consistent thickness of filament, and minimising contaminants. Also colours tend to be lost and muddied. These might be economical if you have a print farm and are consuming a spool a day on average.
On a large scale, there are "3d printers" that can place a special quick-drying concrete and produce small buildings as homes in a matter of days. However they're fed a special mixture of smooth cement and accelerators to set the concrete ready for the next layer.
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Tags: waste
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thread-18425 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18425 | My Ender 3 Pro power switch is stuck to on | 2021-11-22T14:18:17.270 | # Question
Title: My Ender 3 Pro power switch is stuck to on
Started up my Ender 3 today and the print killed halfway because my cat was messing with the cable to my octopi, but when I went to shut it off to reboot and the actual switch seems permanently on (as in stays on regardless of position). do I need a new PSU? and is this a known issue?
# Answer
> 3 votes
The mains switch is easily replaced - the part is widely available. Just make sure that the spade connectors go on securely and to the same positions as the old one.
Here's how the wires are connected in my Ender 3's mains input:
The IEC mains connector is on the right in the first image. You can see the yellow wire goes to the earth connection of the PSU. The black wire goes to the neutral connection of the PSU. The live input goes via a wire strip to one end of the fuse, the other end of the fuse is connected to the central pole of the switch, and the on-position of the switch is connected to the live connection of the PSU via the red wire which leaves the picture.
The switch is on the left in the first image, and at the bottom in the second image.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, power-supply
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thread-10 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10 | 3D printing for outdoor use: "What types of filament are most weather resistant?" | 2016-01-12T18:59:34.417 | # Question
Title: 3D printing for outdoor use: "What types of filament are most weather resistant?"
I'd like to print modifications for my bird feeder, both to patch over the hail damage from last summer and to try to deter the neighborhood squirrels. I have an FDM printer (and experience with nylon, ABS, and PLA, though don't restrict answers to those if there's something else that's better), what kind of filament would stand up best to daily exposure to sun, rain, snow, etc?
# Answer
> 11 votes
PET(G) is a strong contender. It is very strong and water-resistant, and as such is often used to make pop bottles.
PLA has a reputation for being "biodegradable" and therefore it is often discouraged to use PLA outside and/or in contact with water. However, PLA only biodegrades under very specific conditions which it won't generally be exposed to so it can be used (though, as a harder and less flexible material it is more likely to be damaged by hail).
ABS and Nylon are good choices as well. Basically, any plastic you have on hand will last for years, even in an outside application.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I have several items printed in PLA that have been outdoors for about a year now. Apart from some discoloration I don't see any structural damage (yet?). Some of them are at the south side of a building so they get maximum sunlight.
Of course Belgian summers can not be compared to Arizona summers!
# Answer
> 2 votes
I would think that ABS is a good choice if the application isn't in direct sunlight. ABS is what sprinkler lines are made from and those obviously do well under ground, though I have seen ABS that is left in the sun get super brittle over time and snap easily.
PLA also will slowly melt in direct sunlight. I have seen this one firsthand, having left a print on my windowsill and watching it slowly morph with the weight of objects on top of it.
PETG is good in terms of easier printing with a good strength, but I cannot say that it's particularly good for outdoor use, depending on your use-case. It can be food-safe though!
It would seem to me like Nylon is your best bet, since this is super strong stuff, and is used as gears for things that exist outside, like boats and motorcycle parts, etc. I don't have specific proof that this is the best, but depending on what exactly you're trying to accomplish, it's likely the best choice.
You can always spray paint some kind of coating on the resulting print that will increase the UV protection. Something like Krylon Preserve It Aerosol Spray perhaps?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I think ABS would be your best bet. It's not biodegradable and realtivley easy to print.
But you can use more or less any material if you use some form of coating on it. I would always go for coated PLA instead of other materials just because PLA is the easiest to print and it's nontoxic.
# Answer
> 1 votes
ABS would be *toxic*, I believe (contains BPA I think) so that wouldn't be a good choice. I think PETG is safe plus UV resistant so that would be a good one. I'm not sure about PLA or other materials.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Most plastic resins decompose under UV light from the sun. The chains breakdown, and the plastic becomes a powder.
From examining plastic parts for outdoor use, they typically have a stable pigment built into the plastic. The pigment prevents the UV from penetrating into the object because the pigment stops or reflects the radiation. A good choice for the pigment is titanium oxide. TiO is stable under UV light and heat, so it will not bleach and lost effectiveness. As the plastic degrades in the outermost layer, the TiO remain effective until it loses all support from the plastic and is removed from the object.
TiO is a bright white pigment, so the temperature of the object is lower than it would be if it were compounded with carbon black.
Because TiO is inexpensive, I would expect it to be the pigment in most bright white filaments. Not "natural" white, but true, bright white.
So to answer your question, I would pick the whitest version of whatever filament you would otherwise favor for the outdoors application.
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Tags: material, fdm, outdoors
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thread-18433 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18433 | Drawing simple circle in G-code | 2021-11-23T13:45:27.753 | # Question
Title: Drawing simple circle in G-code
I thought I am not bad at Google, but simply I am unable to find a G-code for doing circular motion for nozzle cleaning. It is possible to write a simple circular motion in G-code?
# Answer
> 2 votes
To draw a circle, you need to approximate the circle as a sufficient number of line segments. This requires computing or using a table of sine and cosine values for each angle step. Then you just emit a sequence of `G1` commands.
Some printer firmware also supports arc drawing commands you could use instead in principle, but support is not widespread, and the quality of the results varies enough that I would not recommend trying to do it this way.
# Answer
> 1 votes
While many 3D printers support using G2 and G3 for circles and arcs, most people are not used to them because the STL files consist entirely of flat triangles (straight lines).
If you want a simple 2D circle, see the following for help:
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G002-G003.html
https://makezine.com/2016/10/24/get-to-know-your-cnc-how-to-read-g-code/
https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G2\_.26\_G3:\_Controlled\_Arc\_Move
Note: it can take a while to get used to the I and J parameters.
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Tags: g-code
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thread-18332 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18332 | Visible line along Y-axis on top surface | 2021-11-05T23:31:21.873 | # Question
Title: Visible line along Y-axis on top surface
Prints on my Ender 3 V2 have a strange visible line along the Y-axis on the top surface. You can't feel it if you run your finger over it, but can see it which spoils the appearance of the part. While printing there's no noticeable change in the motion of the nozzle as it crosses this line. It happens at the same distance across the build plate each time. Has anyone seen this issue or have a suggestion for how to resolve it?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I finally got to the bottom of this. I found a small scratch in the channel of the x-axis gantry (no idea how it got there). The line in the print was at the point where one of the wheels was bumping over the scratch. I carefully filed it down and the line is now barely visible.
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Tags: creality-ender-3
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thread-18445 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18445 | Factory reset needed! | 2021-11-25T14:40:21.957 | # Question
Title: Factory reset needed!
I have just bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro. During setup, I think I must have applied an offset... The nozzle lifts up about 5 mm from the bed when starting to print.
I am reading that `M502` resets to factory settings and `M500` saves the settings. I have looked everywhere I can think of but am unable to find these files to download. Can someone help me please? Where can I find these files?
# Answer
> 2 votes
`M502` and `M500` are not files, they are G-code commands (well, they are *actually* M-codes, but don't worry about that)<sup>1</sup>.
To reset your printer to the factory default settings, simply connect a terminal and send `M502`.
If you are using Linux, see How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?
See also M502 will reset all configurable settings to their "factory defaults", which settings are those?
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<sup>1</sup> Simply put: G-codes control movement; whereas M-codes control other functions (which aren't movements).
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Tags: creality-ender-3, firmware, reset
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thread-18441 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18441 | BLTouch collides with side of bed when starting print AFTER leveling | 2021-11-24T22:50:26.880 | # Question
Title: BLTouch collides with side of bed when starting print AFTER leveling
Okay, this one is a bit weird as everything else on the printer (for the most part at least...) is working perfectly. Some minor adjustments here and there are needed but this issue has shown up recently since adding a BLTouch.
After starting the print my printer regardless if I have it set up to wipe or not will them run the BLTouch (NOT the extruder, ONLY the BLTouch) into the side of the print bed. All of my offsets seem to be correct but for whatever reason, I can't seem to figure out what to correct to make this not run into the side of the bed as admittedly after the collision it prints fine! Any ideas?
(I have provided a video to give a better idea as to what exactly is going on as there are similar issues however they don't quite match my situation from what I've seen)
# Answer
The problem is not **after** leveling, but **during** leveling when probing the first point of the mesh. As it fails to detect the trigger point, it skips further levelling steps. As the probe doesn't retract it is bound to cause a problem.
This could potentially be a non-genuine Antclabs touch probe, which are of lower quality than the original Antclabs BLTouch. The original BLTouch has a screw on top which might be present here also, you could try to adjust it for it to retract better on triggering (see this answer for some more information on the working of a touch sensor). The screw attracts the magnet on the top of the probe pin, getting the screw closer (clockwise) to increase the attraction and thus make it easier to attract it back up when retracting.
If the probe retracts in the middle of the bed, it should retract at every point on the bed. If it does not retract, there is something wrong with the sensor. You could insert an additional spacer (0.5 - 1 mm) between the mount and the probe to make a little more distance between the nozzle and the probe.
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Could be the angle of the video, but make sure the frame is at 90° angles and the bed is as level as possible. Note that when using a sheet of glass, it generally is not required to use a touch sensor for scanning the surface, glass is flat. You could check with a ruler on its side. Basically, `G29` can be skipped by taking it out of the start G-code, the sensor will than only be used in the middle of the bed to home Z.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bltouch
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thread-18451 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18451 | What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same? | 2021-11-26T12:17:50.297 | # Question
Title: What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same?
When looking at Marlin firmware or reading on leveling of the printer bed the term ABL and UBL are frequently used.
* What are ABL and UBL?
* Are they the same?
# Answer
> 5 votes
> * What are ABL and UBL?
* **ABL** stands for **Automatic Bed Leveling**
* **UBL** stands for **Unified Bed Leveling**
## Level the bed?
A level bed (twisting knobs under the bed), or a surface that is exactly followed by the nozzle is a prime requisite for 3D printing. Without a proper bed setup (not only level, but also the initial nozzle to bed surface gap; usually the paper thickness distance, but a feeler gauge will do a similar job), adhesion to the print surface might not be optimal and causes the print to get loose during printing or the first layer may not adhere at all.
## A leveling solution
Over the years, 3D printing hardware and software has evolved to aid the 3D print operator. One such a solution is the use of a sensor (see e.g. Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?). But a dedicated sensor it not a prime requisite, you can also do it manually.
## ABL
Automatic bed leveling comes in many forms, the use of a sensor to sense the proximity of the build surface (inductive, capacitive, optical or through physical touching) enabled scanning of the build surface. In the Marlin firmware, more specific in the configuration.h file of the firmware (note this is a generic one, your printer might need adaptions!), the following on automatic bed leveling is to be found:
* **AUTO\_BED\_LEVELING\_3POINT**
Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't collinear)
You specify the XY coordinates of all 3 points.
*The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.*
* **AUTO\_BED\_LEVELING\_LINEAR**
Probe several points in a grid.
You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.
*The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.*
* **AUTO\_BED\_LEVELING\_BILINEAR**
Probe several points in a grid.
You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.
*The result is a mesh, best for large or uneven beds.*
Note that bilinear leveling is automatic leveling option that doesn’t require you to adjust any leveling knobs (but remember that *automatic leveling is **not** magic*, you still need to provide a bed as level as possible! see Does auto leveling result in sheared prints?), but it is laborious to use in the sense you typically have to run the multi probing points prior to printing, which can take some time depending on the grid size (see How to increase the amount of probing points for a BLTouch sensor in Marlin firmware?).
This is where Unified Bed Leveling comes in.
## UBL
Unified bed leveling (UBL) introduces a mesh-based software procedure in Marlin firmware similar to (ABL) bilinear leveling but with some extra features. From the configuration.h file:
* **AUTO\_BED\_LEVELING\_UBL** (Unified Bed Leveling)
A comprehensive bed leveling system combining the features and benefits
of other systems. UBL **also** includes integrated Mesh Generation, Mesh
Validation and Mesh Editing systems.
A UBL mesh is generally using more probing points than the (ABL) bilinear leveling equivalent to create a better digital representation (topography) of the used build surface. Bilinear meshes typically use 9-25 probing points, UBL meshes generally use 81-100 probing points to scan the surface more thoroughly. Note that this is up to you how you define this, the bottom line is that UBL is not something you do prior to every print, so you can get away with having some more probing points. Note to choose a value that is in line with the surface (type and size), for a flat glass surface 100 probing points might not be necessary.
Essentially, the operator is presented a means to interact with the 3D printer to control the leveling to allows to easily store (save up to seven meshes), adjust, and swap multiple digitally stored leveling meshes on your printer to encounter the various print surfaces you may use like in multiple build plates.
The main difference between UBL and the ABL systems is that UBL combines features of other leveling techniques to provide users with more control. With Unified Bed Leveling, you’re not technically required to have an automatic bed leveling sensor. Through the interface, you can manually create the mesh! As the machine is homed, the coordinate system is fixed, movement relative to the reference is used by each probing point.
With so many points, creating UBL meshes can take a long time compared to other systems (certainly without a leveling sensor), but once the process is done, you don’t have to redo this again as the UBL features allow you to modify the probing points.
The `G26` command is designed to use with mesh enabled leveling procedures (Marlin \< 1.1.6 `AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL` and since Marlin 1.1.7 it also works with `MESH_BED_LEVELING` and `AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR`). The various options are described in the Marlin implementation of `G26`.
> * Are they the same?
To sum up, ABL and UBL are the same in that some sort of procedure is used to scan the topography of the bed surface but they differ in the sense that for ABL you are required to have a automatic leveling sensor and choose less points while you can have more probe points using UBL including advanced features as editing and storing multiple meshes.
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Tags: marlin, bed-leveling, knowledgebase, terminology
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thread-18453 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18453 | What is homing? What is the purpose of homing? | 2021-11-26T12:45:59.397 | # Question
Title: What is homing? What is the purpose of homing?
A 3D printer needs to be homed (homing) before the print starts.
* What is homing?
* What is the purpose of homing?
* Is it necessary?
# Answer
> 5 votes
> * What is homing?
From the tag wiki we can read:
> The process of determining the location of a 3D printer nozzle in three dimension using a reference point (home location) is referred to as "homing". Homing should occur before every print and involves bringing the X, Y and Z-Axis motors to pre-defined limit locations (usually these are endstops). Pre-recorded homing data offset values determine the position of the build plate origin with respect to the endstop locations.
> * What is the purpose of homing?
So, homing is defining the printer coordinate system location with respect to a reference location we call "home". Why? The controller board or steppers have no memory for storing their position and could have been manually moved. Once the axes have "seen" there reference location, the printer will remember to refer all movements in respect to this point (this may include offset values to get to the origin of the printer (see How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)). Note, if a problem occurs where e.g. the nozzle hits the bed or print object, the nozzle may be out of sync with the reference point. Such an anomaly is e.g. layer shifting which occurs on open-loop stepper movement (servo steppers have feedback to prevent this from happening, but these are more expensive). The purpose of homing is to set a reference so that your sliced objects can be printed at the correct location within the printer print volume. If correctly configured, and no problems like layer shifting occur, the benefit is that proper homing prevent the machine to print within the limits of the printer.
> * Is it necessary?
Strictly speaking, no, it is not necessary. But if you do not automatically set a reference for each axis, you would need to manually provide a position to start from. This can work just as well, but the use of end stops automate the procedure so that it is very easy for the printer operator. Some (of the cheaper) CNC machines do not have end stops, the operator needs to be aware to position the tool head of the CNC machine at the proper starting position.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Most 3d printers control head position using stepper motors and end stops with no position feedback. The stepper motor does not actually know its location.
The printer's control system can only know the location of the head by keeping track of the relative number of steps the head has been moved by the stepper motors.
Homing moves all the axes in one direction until it hits the end stops for each axis. Once that has been done, then the control system knows exactly where the head is and future relative motions can be offset from there.
Some control systems will move the axis at a relatively high speed (so you don't get bored, but not fast enough to cause damage) and then overshoot the end stop's activation point and stop. Then they will back off to release the end stop and then move towards it more slowly to get a more exact reading of the activation point.
When the printer is idle, frequently the stepper motors are unpowered to save energy and keep the motors cool. When the motors are unpowered, they can free spin (you can push the axis with your hand or the vertical axis might even slip a bit with gravity), so the position would be uncertain, and it would be necessary to re-home. Once it has rehomed, the control system will keep the motors powered to prevent slipping.
It is only necessary to home if you care about where the printer starts printing. In theory, you could get away with only homing the vertical axis (so the print starts on a surface and the first layer is the correct thickness), and manually set the horizontal start position. However, this might make using the full horizontal limits of the build area difficult if you didn't start it in the right place.
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Tags: homing, knowledgebase, terminology
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thread-16765 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16765 | PLA filament becomes brittle inside PTFE tube | 2021-07-19T20:43:25.733 | # Question
Title: PLA filament becomes brittle inside PTFE tube
I know that it's said the PLA becomes brittle when kept in a humid environment, but my case is slightly weirder:
I have rolls of 1.75 mm PLA that I bought years ago and they are fine. But if I leave my spool fed inside the PTFE (Teflon) tube of my 3D printer, that part that is inside the PTFE tube, and only that part, gets brittle. The filament spool is always (even when stored) in open air.
Is it still the humidity that somehow is better kept inside the tube, or is there a weird reaction of PLA with PTFE?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have this exact problem as well. I am feeding filament from the dry box through the tube into the top of the hot end. After approximately 2 days I would notice that the filament is broken somewhere close to the hot end. I don't believe that it's just humidity.
I suspect that the filament being brittle and being made to conform to the PTFE tube's shape, having been recently on a spool, is causing the breaks.
As a result, I'm going to write a small script that will heat the hot end and eject 200 mm of filament every so often.
EDIT: Whilst the script works, the filament would just break somewhere else lower down in the tube. Therefore the amount of filament that would need to be extruded periodically would be just wasteful. A better solution would be to unload the filament, either manually or automatically (somehow).
# Answer
> 1 votes
I'm having the exact same problem - it is enough to leave the filament inside the PTFE tube for an overnight and the next day the filament inside the tube is so brittle that I'm not even able to eject the filament without disconnecting the tube and getting out all small pieces of filament manually... but from my experience, it affects only cheap PLA filaments (like Creality ST-PLA) - I never had such issue with other types of filaments (ASA, PETG) or higher-quality brands of PLA (e.g Fillamentum, Filament PM...).
BTW - there is a video on YouTube demonstrating the same issue:
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Tags: pla, print-material, ptfe-tube
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thread-18409 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18409 | CR-6 SE rebooting at fixed moments in print | 2021-11-21T13:39:00.673 | # Question
Title: CR-6 SE rebooting at fixed moments in print
My printer seems to be responding poorly to some of the prints I provide it with. At a certain time, usually after at least half an hour.
For example, the print I tried today (twice) kept crashing somewhere after 52 minutes. Both times at the same spot. It would instantly reboot, ask to continue and even if I did it would crash again at the end of the backtracking.
A couple of things come to mind:
* PSU/motherboard responding poorly to some set of actions. Doing the same actions again triggers the same problem.
* Slicer producing illegal actions in some situations, causing the motherboard to panic.
* Firmware being bugged, responding poorly in some edge cases.
Other prints work fine.
How would I go about finding what's causing the reboots? As a workaround, I'd accept a method of finding out whether a specific print would have this behaviour (incl. looking at the resulting gcode if that helps), without having to waste an hour (or more) of time and material each time.
System:
* CR-6 SE.
* Recent Community Firmware.
* Stock parts except for the cold-end extruder, that's switched out for an all-metal dual-gear.
* Creality Slicer 4.8.2.
*Note:* I feel obligated to mention the printer is on an unearthed power socket (old building, only ground floor has a couple of earthed sockets). This might make parts of the system less forgiving than it would otherwise, but I'm not sure about that. Internal wiring of the printer (for as much as it's accessible) seems fine.
# Answer
Turns out this is the behaviour of files that get corrupted. This has very little to do with the slicer and everything with how some SD cards are just intent on getting themselves a bad name.
In this case, the file was corrupted enough not to be readable on the machine that put the data on there. If the file can't be opened and made look readable by a normal text editor, it's probably corrupted and not worth trying to print. A quick scroll-through to check it's all there might be a good idea as well.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, power-supply, creality-cr-6
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thread-18466 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18466 | Interpreting G-code to answer question about geometry of shape produced | 2021-11-27T20:44:39.323 | # Question
Title: Interpreting G-code to answer question about geometry of shape produced
I encountered the following question in a manufacturing course.
```
G20 G90 G28
M06 T1
MO3 S1000
G00 X0 Y0 Z-0.25
G41 D1
G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X5 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X5 Y3 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
G00 X4 Y0 Z0.25
```
But when you type the G code in NCViewer the shape produced is not a rectangle. Also, I am not sure how the end mill diameter affects that of the rectangle. Can anyone explain how to solve this problem?
# Answer
There is no rectangle, the assignment is wrong. In order to make a rectangle, the G-code should have been:
```
...
G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X5 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X5 Y3 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X1 Y3 Z-0.25 F3 ; <-- missing line
G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
...
```
Then the rectangle would have been 2 by 4 inches.
---
As noted in the comments, the assignment is even more unclear. The code shows an offset to be taken into account of tool `D1` in the cutter compensation code `G41`. It further doesn't specify the characteristics of that tool. If it is differently than the end mill currently in the tool head, than the difference in diameter between the `D1` tool and the current 0.5" tool needs to be taken into account. The power of using cutter offset definitions is that the same code can be used for different tools, you only needs to set the correct offset. If the `D1` tool is defined as a 1" diameter tool, the current tool is half that size, as there is a compensation for 1" at play while a half inch end mill is used, the end product will be larger.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: g-code, cnc
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thread-18463 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18463 | One rough corner with blobs | 2021-11-27T15:56:34.787 | # Question
Title: One rough corner with blobs
Neptune 2, Polyterra PLA at 200/45 °C, Cura 4.11.
I'm tuning the settings and one of the test prints is a keycap, all the corners except one print just fine, that problematic one shows heavy blobbing and is extremely rough, pic related.
I've tried fiddling with the temp, speed (50 mm/s, persists even at 20), jerk speed (3 mm/s), retraction settings (3mm at 70 mm/s), flow (even at 90 %), Z seam related setting... But the problem still persists.
I'll be monitoring this thread for a few hours, any input would be appreciated.
# Answer
Neptune 2 appears to use the Bowden extruder. Typical settings for Bowden are 4-8 mm retraction distance, 20 mm/s to 45 mm/s retraction speed. Your setting seems like a low retraction distance, it might not be fully retracting, and blobbing at the start of a layer could be from that.
You could also mess with the ‘retract on layer change’ setting if you think it is dwelling at the end of a layer and some extra plastic oozes out as it does the Z move to move to the next layer.
Check there isn’t a setting to have extra extrusion after retraction, here you have too much extrusion at the seam.
Side note but you can get rid of the elephant's foot on the first layer by entering a negative value in the setting “Initial layer horizontal expansion”. You want to squish it as you did, but this setting makes it so the edges don’t bulge out further than the rest of the model.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, pla
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thread-18469 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18469 | Appropriate Grease for Z-Axis Lead Screws | 2021-11-28T00:44:29.500 | # Question
Title: Appropriate Grease for Z-Axis Lead Screws
I need to lube the lead screw for my 3D printer. I plan on using this grease. I want to know if this will work. There are several other ones like silicone grease, lithium grease, and synthetic grease with PTFE. I am super confused with the pros and cons of each.
Details:
* I have a metal lead screw and a metal(brass I believe) nut.
* I am using a Lotmaxx SC-10 printer(similar to Ender 3)
* I need it to repel dust.
I think it was dry, to begin with. At least I have never greased it before. If I touch it, I feel something on it, but it is super thin and I can barely feel it.
# Answer
Personally I put a drop of light machine oil on the lead screw just above the Y gantry between prints, while the head is down. When it prints, the lead screw raises the gantry and the threads spread the oil.
If I was going to do a really tall print, I'd consider adding a little oil higher up the lead screw too where it rarely goes.
A Y axis lead screw is a low speed, low pressure and low temperature application, so anything "slippery" will do, but the dust repelling attribute is important.
Sewing Machine oil, or 3-in-1 oil would be ideal, as would a white lithium grease. You don't want a petroleum grease like in car wheel bearings because it attracts dust and is viscous/heavy, requiring more force to move around.
Since your existing lead screw is "dry" a wipe with a clean rag should be enough to remove what was there. I would not use degreaser or solvent, and I would also avoid anything that is in a spray can/aerosol because you want to control where it goes, and avoid overspray.
Your nominated du pont lube looks fine too, though out of stock and it seems expensive.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, maintenance, cleaning
--- |
thread-18476 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18476 | Ender 3 hot end heater "stuck on" | 2021-11-29T18:50:53.683 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 hot end heater "stuck on"
Forgive this long-winded post, but I thought it would be helpful to include the back story leading up to a very scary situation on my Ender 3.
I was printing a job and everything started out fine just like it normally does. I'm not sure if it is related, but partway through the job, there was a power dip severe enough to trip the alarm on the UPS my computer is attached to. It didn't seem to affect the job on the printer though. (the printer is not on a UPS)
A little while later I noticed the extruder clicking like there was a jam, and the print had started severely under extruding. The hot end temp was showing around 209 °C, which is about what it was supposed to be, so I figured the nozzle was getting old and had probably gotten something stuck in it. I canceled the job, did a cold pull, then went ahead and replaced the nozzle and restarted the job.
The second run started off looking ok, but the clicking and under extruding soon came back. I stopped the job and was standing there next to the printer trying to figure out what was going on when I noticed it reboot itself. Octoprint showed a message (I can't recall the exact wording) of something to the effect of "your printer reset and the job is probably failed".
Weird. It's never done that before. I hadn't restarted since the power dip, so I thought maybe it was just in a bad state and physically powered everything down to start fresh. But as soon as it powered back up, the heater went active and the hot end started warming up. The status display said the temp was set at 0 °C, but the "current temp" reading was rising. I quickly went into the menus to select "cool down" and couldn't find it. There was no cool-down option on the menu!
By this time the hot end was up to around 270 °C and starting to smoke, so I shut the whole thing down again. I let it sit for a little while and powered up again. Immediately upon receiving power, the heater went active and started heating up again! I'm pretty sure had I not been standing there it would have eventually caught fire and possibly burned down my house!
This is the original Creality board, but I did flash it with Marlin U1.R2.7 maybe a year ago. It has been completely stable since. Thermal runaway protection is enabled (and tested), but I don't think it would have done anything in this scenario since the printer thinks the heater is off (hence the missing cooldown option). Even if it did detect an issue, I'm not sure it would have been able to do anything since it seems to be permanently shorted "on".
Has anyone heard of something like this before? Any idea what might have caused it?
I opened the case and inspected the board for signs of something shorting out or a smoked component, but everything appears normal. I disconnected the heater so I could power up and everything seems to work other than the heater terminals always having power.
Obviously, my trust in this machine has been severely diminished. I already ordered an SKR Mini E3 V2 to replace the Creality board since I had been thinking of upgrading anyway. But I would really like to know what happened so I can assess the probability of it happening again.
Ideally, I would also like to figure out some way of protecting against this happening again in the future and causing a fire when I might not be standing next to the printer next time.
My first thought is some sort of thermal fuse (like the ones in hairdryers) in line with the heater that would "blow" if it gets past a certain temperature. A typical consumer printer should never have a reason to get above 260-270 °C, so it seems appropriate to kill the circuit if it goes beyond that regardless of what the board is telling it to do.
Has anyone tried retrofitting something like that? Are you aware of any printers on the market that include such a feature?
Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot the board to figure out what happened?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Your onboard MOSFET has failed, you need to replace the component, yet better the board. It seems the MOSFET isn’t reacting to the signal from the microprocessor, instead it is “always on”.
Note that a MOSFET usually fails short, but can fail open in certain circumstances. See Do MOSFETs usually burn open or closed?.
# Answer
> 0 votes
My understanding is that the hot end heats until the thermistor signals to the board that it is near/at temperature.
On an Ender V2 with the Meanwell power supply, the unit has thermal runaway protection so if the thermistor fails the board will shut down.
In your case, the failed thermistor never alerts by changing resistance, the board will keep heating the block. So I think you need to pull the thermistor and test its resistance as the temperature changes. Connect it to a multimeter with the Resistance setting, then heat it with a hairdryer.
Another possibility is if a failed print has clogged the nozzle area, and the resulting blob of plastic has broken a wire to the thermister. This might be repairable by soldering.
Thermistors are available as replacement items too, may pay to simply get one along with a spare belt and nozzles.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, hotend, safety, temperature
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thread-18479 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18479 | Printing metal infused PLA does not work well | 2021-11-29T22:19:47.293 | # Question
Title: Printing metal infused PLA does not work well
I have a 3D printer and I want to 3D print with metal infused PLA filament. It seems that this filament does not print that well (it won't melt to the right consistency). I referred to my manual and it does not talk about plastic or metal filaments. Is using metal causing the problem or is it something else.
The printer I have is a JGMAKER Magic 3D Printer DIY Kit with Filament Run Out Detection Sensor and Resume Print Metal Base 3D Printers for Hobbyist Education.
I am printing these Christmas balls in different colors for the holidays.
The metal filament is Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA (1.75 mm) Shine Silky Shiny Copper Like PLA CC3D ZHUOPU
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is is PLA, and if you can print regular PLA then this metalised one should print too. However if its a different brand then you may need to increase the hotend temperature in small steps.
I'd suggest you load the filament, and then turn on the heaters to bring it all up to temp. Then use the extruder feedingn knob to force some filament into the hotend. It should come out like hot cheese, and if not then increase the hotend temp till it does.
In your slicer, it should be possible to set up a profile for this material with settings it likes, to ease future printing.
---
Your comment say it drips, which suggests the hotend temp is too HIGH and the plastic is liquifying. Start at 140 degrees C and then work up from there, not down.
---
Tags: pla, filament, filled-pla
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thread-18482 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18482 | How to achieve ombré (or shading) effects? | 2021-11-29T23:01:16.873 | # Question
Title: How to achieve ombré (or shading) effects?
Is it possible to color a 3D printed object during 3D printing? I am trying to achieve an *ombré* of many colors.
I tried to stop the 3D printing at individual stages and it looks like blocks. Is there a way to achieve a near perfect ombré or is it not possible yet?
The thing I am printing is Spiral Christmas Balls.
I am trying to achieve something like this effect:
# Answer
The ability to shade 3D printed objects is dependent on the printer, the plastic in use, and available dye.
Several vendors offer filament with a gradient or rainbow-colored patterns, so that printed objects will vary in color over their volume.
Several 3D printers give the option of changing plastics during printing which would allow this.
A few 3D printers allow injecting dye into the plastic during the printing process, allowing full 3d coloring of the final part.
If you can find a natural colored filament and a dye that will dissolve in the filament, it is possible to color the surface of the filament before it goes into the printer, and there is some mixing in the nozzle. (This works well with natural-colored ABS and Sharpie markers, but I haven't found a combination that works well with PLA.)
> 2 votes
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Tags: color
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thread-18405 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18405 | Can't 'tune' out my problem, please help! | 2021-11-21T00:08:22.457 | # Question
Title: Can't 'tune' out my problem, please help!
Alright, long story but I want to provide as much detail as possible:
I have a heavily modded Ender 3 Pro. Mods include:
* Metal Extruder
* Capricorn PTFE tube
* Glass bed with improved leveling nuts
* BLTouch
* LED strip
* Dual Z-axis motors with the recent addition of BTT E3 RRF control board (and IDEX module so that it could do `G34` auto-align) (most recent additions)
I'm using Overture Brand white PLA and for the first print that messed up (pic below), I was using the default "generic PLA" Cura settings for an Ender 3 pro.
**The problem:**
Anyhow, it caused this kind of print:
There are a few angles where it actually looks pretty good. The hull is fairly smooth, the first layer went down well, the roofs and bridging look tolerable, but as you can see, especially around the "pillars" it looks I don't know... under-extruded? Like the lines don't connect very strongly. In fact, it might be hard to tell from this photo but the bottom actually ripped off when I took it off the plate, mostly due to weak connections between each layer.
**What I've tried:**
I pretty much went step by step through Teaching Tech's calibration guide.
* I started by getting out my bubble level and 90-degree gauge and just making sure the frame/bed/everything was level and perpendicular to each other and everything.
* I did the E-steps calibration until I reliably got 100 mm when I asked for 100 mm
* My first layer had never been a problem (especially with BLTouch and glass bed), so I skipped that step.
* I did the baseline print. My first one looked like the top of the cube had some under extrusion (you can see through it if you look closely in this photo
* I did the slicer flow calibration and actually it came out a little tiny bit too big (which would indicate I need to turn down the flow), but as Teaching Tech mentioned at the bottom of the page, you can't always trust that so I didn't end up making any changes to flow.
+ Worth pointing out, in this photo of the Slicer Flow calibration cube, you can see some weird holes where the nozzle would be kinda late starting a line.
* The stepper motor driver current thing confuses me but I had previously set the current of both Z-axis' to the values I've seen in several YouTube videos, including Aurora.tech's channel where she covered the same BTT IDEX board and dual Z's.
* I did the temperature tuning and it seems like for this PLA 210 °C seems to work well.
* At this point I felt like retraction tuning was the problem and would fix everything, but with the default speeds in Teaching Tech's sample print, distances from 0-8 mm didn't seem to do anything differently in this print:
* I never ended up doing the acceleration tuning
* For the linear advance, I changed the k value to 0.4
* I don't have a dial gauge to do the XYZ steps calibration
Long story short, with those few changes I redid the calibration cube and the benchy and they look maybe 5% better but still weird.
My Z-axis squeaks sometimes when moving through a spot 5-10 mm off the bed, so I lubricated them according to the guide here, but I did that prior to that second benchy so it didn't seem to solve it.
After I first posted this, I decided to dive deeper into that squeaky Z-axis. I triple, super-duper checked that both Z threaded rods were parallel to each other and neither was warped/curved/etc... They seem fine. I lubricated them both a bit more and using G-code told the printer to jog the Z-axis up and down the length of the rods about 20ish times. The squeak did eventually go away so I printed another benchy. No dice. Still looks bad.
Per Criggie's answer, I disabled the steppers and moved the axes around to see if they moved smoothly. Both X and Y move great with steppers disabled and then are pretty firm normally. Z is pretty stiff no matter what but that may be intentional. I previously had problems with my Z-axis falling down when prints were over so I installed anti-backlash nuts and with two anti-backlash nuts (one on each rod) I'm not surprised it doesn't want to fall. But again, when I just tell it to move, it moves very smoothly. For instance, I just got out my micrometer and measured the Z movement. I told it to move 100 mm up using OctoPrint and measured the actual movement. Seemed to be 100 on the dot.
I have a BTT filament sensor in the filament path prior to the extruder. I noticed it provided a little friction and I was concerned it was making it hard for the extruder to pull the filament. I removed it, but no improvement in print quality.
One other strange thing I've noticed is the benchy always looks bad in the same spot (the pillars). Makes me wonder WHY it's always that exact spot, not randomly all over.
It's got to have something to do with under-extrusion or flow. I think I ruled out the Z-axis. I made a "tall" benchy by modifying the benchy file to have a platform underneath it. This bumped it up a few cm and the problem still happened in the same spot on the pillars of the benchy (which is now in a completely different spot on the Z. Also, given the "flow" preview in Cura:
That circled low flow area is where it always messes up.
So now to figure out why it's got low flow. Again, I calibrated the E-steps and it seems to be accurate. I've also printed benchy's where I told Cura to have 110% flow just to check. The last one I attempted didn't just fail, it failed big time and became a blob at that same spot.
I wonder if the extruder gear is worn and slipping and/or the Capricorn PTFE tube is too restrictive for the "budget" filament brand I'm using that might have trouble sliding through it. I have replacement steel extruder gears showing up Tuesday, will update my question then.
# Answer
It was a worn extruder gear. I didn’t think it was THAT worn, and when I loosened it a bit and slid it a few mm so that the gear hit the filament in a fresh spot it didn’t improve. But new stainless steel gears showed up today and when I installed one it worked perfect. Same file/settings/gcode that had failed several times previously when testing other things
> 1 votes
# Answer
I see positional errors in X and Y, but Z looks okay.
That suggests one or both of your belts is stretched, perhaps damaged, or maybe just loose.
Try engaging the stepper motors in the device's panel and push the head left/right or pull the bed toward/away from you. They should both resist handforce, and you then feel like it needs to be pushed with full arm/shoulder force to move it (but don't actually force anything with that level !!)
There should be none/almost no play in X or Y with the steppers locked/engaged.
Then disable the stepper motors in the same menu, and both bed and head should slide with one finger's push.
This test does not work for Z but that axis seems fine in your benchy print.
Also check the condition of the drive/tension pulleys at either end of the belts. There should be no powdered plastic from the cogs, nor rubbery bits from the belt.
I cannot see any over/under extrusion, so the extruder/drive is probably okay.
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, calibration
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thread-18194 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18194 | How do I fix infill support in Cura? | 2021-10-04T19:56:35.343 | # Question
Title: How do I fix infill support in Cura?
I am making this dog feeder.
My goal is to 3D print it using an Ender 3 V2. I am using Cura to slice it.
When I slice it, though, Cura does not see the Top part (Dispenser box) as a solid piece. And when I am slicing it, it does not create an infill for the ramp. I have tried using the infill support option and setting the infill overhang angle to 0, but it still does not create infill support on the ramp. Here are some prints:
Notice that there is no infill under the ramp.
How do I make Cura understand that this is a solid piece?
# Answer
I've followed the link in the question and exported the dispenser box and sliced it in Ultimaker Cura 4.12.1 and it will slice just fine.
---
*From a comment on the answer from the OP I've learned later that the model has been fixed. So the issue was related to the model/STL file, not an issue with Cura.*
> 1 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, infill
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thread-18210 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18210 | Ender 3 Pro elephant's foot | 2021-10-07T13:56:26.090 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro elephant's foot
I recently got an Ender 3 Pro and had a blast with it for the first few days, but then I got greedy for a better print and threw off my calibration with some "upgrades" and ended up with some really nasty elephant's foot. The first 3 mm are all bubbly and uneven as if someone heated it up and squished it slightly.
I've read the other forums and have made sure my belts are tight, my bed is perfectly level, and my filament is just fine. I've tried using rafts to take the blow from the deformity and that usually helps but even with my initial layer horizontal expansion setting turned to -1, I'm still getting a little bit for flaring on the base layer on the raft.
The upgrades I got were an aluminum extruder housing (single drive) and Capricorn tubing.
---
After addressing the comments, now my corners on bigger prints come up and commonly fail even bed level tests... and the prints that do work (that I do print on a raft) are incredibly weak and break when I pull it off.
Furthermore, I’ve been fixing several things like suggested in comments and nothings worked, now for the most part every part I’ve printed that’s longer then 2 hours has failed.
Yes that is brand new capricorn tubing... the old fittings dug through my old tube and caused the filament to melt in the tube and ruin it.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The following is from the article "Elephant's Foot - Easy Fixes" on All3DP.com
> As we’ve explained, elephant’s foot most often occurs as the result of an uncooled first layer. If the temperature of the print bed is too high, or if there’s insufficient cooling, the first layer may not cool properly, causing elephant’s foot.
>
> Here are a few things to try to reduce or even completely resolve elephant’s foot on your prints:
>
> * **Level the print bed and adjust your nozzle:** Before trying anything else, make sure your printing conditions are ideal. Sometimes elephant’s foot is simply the result of an unleveled build plate or an incorrect nozzle height. These issues both cause the first layer to be squished too far down, forcing it to bulge out. Fortunately, they’re easy to fix, as both leveling the build plate and slightly increasing the nozzle height (in your slicer) are simple and quick.
> * **Lower bed temperature:** Incrementally lower the temperature of your bed by 5 °C until it successfully prints without any bulging. If you lower it by more than 20 °C outside the recommended temperature and the problem isn’t getting better, the elephant’s foot is likely to be caused by something else.
> * **Print with a raft:** Because the problem exists between the first layer and the bed, a raft can take the hit for you. This is less of a solution and more of a workaround, but it can be very helpful if, for example, you really need one piece to slot into another.
> * **Add chamfers to your model:** In some rare cases, elephant’s foot can be extremely difficult to get rid of. Instead of tweaking your printer, it may be easier to simply alter the model. By putting a small 45° chamfer on the bottom edge of the print, the effects of the elephant’s foot can be mitigated.
There is also a great YouTube video "Smooth Top Surface and No Elephants Foot Using Cura 4.7.1" from CHEP:
I had a similar problem on my Ender 3 V2 and followed the above information and cured my issues.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I have 2 Ender 3 Max printers. Both suffered elephant's foot after the initial setup. After trying virtually every suggestion available on the internet I eventually was able to fix them. Assuming the bed is properly leveled, I feel the most common causes are:
1. Too much tension on the X-axis guide wheels on the right side of the printer
2. Too little tension on the X-axis belt (it should be quite tight)
3. Over extrusion. If your initial layers still look rough (bumpy) along the edges it may be from the excess filament. Even after careful calibration, I had to back off the E-steps by -3 (to 95). The change was dramatic!
Both printers now print the XYZ calibration cube within 0.1 mm (0.003").
Hope this helps.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality
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thread-18488 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18488 | Pin layout of RAMPS Plus2 board? | 2021-11-30T18:54:03.983 | # Question
Title: Pin layout of RAMPS Plus2 board?
I've temporarily acquired two different 3D printers that I'm helping someone reassemble. They are delta style printers that at one point worked great. They were being stored in a large community warehouse type place and somebody that shouldn't have had access pilfered them for parts. Well anyhow I've got them 99 % of the way reassembled. Everything physical is back into the right place and now I just have to wire it.
Here's a photo of the board:
It looks like a "BT7200 V1.8.26 Ramps Plus2" board. I also recently bought that pictured meanwell power supply.
I googled the board and instead of a wiring diagram or anything just found several similar questions to this like "anyone familiar with?", "marlin pin details?" etc...
If anyone is either familiar with the board that can point me in the right direction for guides as far as these style/brand of boards? What the heck even are "RAMPS" boards? The only thing I've ever wired up is Creality and BTT mainboards meant for an Ender 3.
# Answer
RAMPS boards are one of the oldest types of boards, in Marlin firmware there is a whole section available. Actually, the first were shields that were pressed on on existing Arduino atMega board. Later, the microprocessor was placed onto the shield to become fully integrated boards. Basically, pin layout is very similar for these boards but small differences exist. In Marlin software pin definition you see that the basic layout is read, after which small changes are read over.
The board can be found by e.g. searching for “HE3D Ramp Plus 2 mainboard for the tricolor/K200 DIY 3D printer kit” and appears to be fully compatible with the RAMPS 1.4 pin layout, which is found here.
Snippet from the description by the seller:
> Ramps PLus2 is suitable for all kinds of 3D printers, such as UM, Reprap, Detla and Kossel, CoreXY and HBot, SCARA and so on. Four layers of exquisite workmanship, from millions of automatic patch production line.
>
> Functional characteristics:
>
> * A) fully compatible with the IO of the Ramps 1.4, the name is very similar to the name, on the market, the Ramps 1.4 less than 20 yuan of Sheild board, in the field of 3D printers have an absolute position, a large number of Marlin and Repetier code can be used free of charge. When configuring a single extrusion, two boards can wear a pair of pants, and nothing can be changed to work. Even the LCD interface, the two 10P Niu seats are all compatible with Ramps1.4 Reprap LCD12864 (note that MKS LCD12864 and LCD2004 are incompatible because they are incompatible with Reprap).
> * B) when configuring double extrusion, Ramps1.4 has a drawback, which is to take Fan as a second extruder, so that when double extruding, there is no fan to control, Ramps Plus 2 has been improved, D7 is used as a second extrusion heating, and the fan is still using D9, so that there can be a double extruder heating, and there is also one. A controlled fan (Pin9).
> * C) the most important thing is that Ramps PLus2 can be expanded to three extrusion…
> 0 votes
---
Tags: electronics, delta, ramps
--- |
thread-18473 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18473 | Filament Spool Stalls Extruder Motor Destroying Print | 2021-11-28T21:11:06.060 | # Question
Title: Filament Spool Stalls Extruder Motor Destroying Print
I am having the frustrating problem where my extruder motor starts skipping steps and stops extruding simply because my filament is wound too tightly. There are some parts of my filament that are so tightly wound that even I have to put some effort to pull it apart. I buy the Inland PLA+ filaments and consistently have this problem with all colors and types. I just threw away a 5-hour large print when it was at 94 %! I am thinking of using a large 20 kg/cm servo to pull our filament before going into the printer to make sure this doesn't happen. I want to know if that is a plausible solution or if I should start buying filament from a different company.
# Answer
> 1 votes
A guy at work had this - he got many cheap rolls of PLA. They had been stored hot and were subtly deformed, each flake slightly sticking to the adjacent ones.
His fix was first to unspool "enough" filament for the job, but that was not reliable for longer prints.
The proper fix was to wind the entire roll onto a spare roll and then fit that to the printer. (And to stop buying suspiciously cheap filament) He make a mandrel for the center of the "reel" and simply wound the filament on with a battery-powered hand drill. The old roll was on the machine until it was emptied, then swapped over.
---
As for your 94% job, it is possible to slice the top 6% of your part, and reprint that. Some careful filing and superglue can give you a useable part, although the seam is never going to be invisible. That may not matter depending on your use case.
---
Tags: extrusion, motor, filament-choice, filament-jam
--- |
thread-18490 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18490 | Considerations for spray booth filtration | 2021-11-30T22:26:02.613 | # Question
Title: Considerations for spray booth filtration
I am getting to the point where I want to start post-processing my 3D prints more heavily, i.e. sanding, polishing, painting. I am currently using PLA but will be working with resin and possibly other FDM materials like ABS or PETG. I looking at making a spray booth that can handle both the sanding and airbrushing of models.
What considerations do I need to take into account? What type of filtration will I need? Is a HEPA filter needed or recommended? What other hazards or concerns?
# Answer
> 2 votes
There are many factors that play in this.
For example if your room has proper air flow. Next to window. What is the season because having the window open during winter can cause your 3d printer to malfunction. You should look at this chart to get a overall view of what to get.
I recommend HEPA that blocks up to 99.97 because it can block a lot more and because it can be easily bought. Also I recommend MERV 11 filters because they are widely available and can block many 3d printing debris which you don't want to inhale.
https://www.sentryair.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/filter-comparisonchart.jpg
---
Tags: post-processing, safety
--- |
thread-5066 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5066 | Nozzle always "randomly" moves to 0 during print, then resumes | 2017-12-02T19:39:42.413 | # Question
Title: Nozzle always "randomly" moves to 0 during print, then resumes
I recently bought an Anet A8 (https://pevly.com/anet-a8-3d-printer-review/). I've managed to get everything up and running, leveled the board, but am now running into a problem.
At the start of the print, the printer moves to 0,0,0, bumps into the switches a couple times (I assume to calibrate or so?), and then starts "printing". But the nozzle "randomly" moves to either an X of 0 or an Y of 0 before returning to the printing position. This movement seems to pull off any basis the printer managed to lay down, which then forms a nice "ball" on the nozzle, to which the rest gets stuck. (I'm still having some other issues with getting the filament to stick to the bed, but there's plenty I still have to try out for that.)
During one attempt of printing a very simple small cube, I carefully pulled the filament "ball" from the nozzle while it did one of those movements to X 0, and afterwards it managed to lay down the bottom layer perfectly fine. This causes me to believe those movements are the biggest problem I'm facing right now.
After it did the first layer, it moved up a bit, moved to X 0, back to the model, and got stuck on a piece of plastic that was standing upwards.
These movements seem to happen at around the same phase in the print, and happen quite consistently. Is this normal behavior? If so, how do I make sure the filament does not get pulled off during these weird movements? If not, how do I get rid of them?
(No, not a duplicate of Printer randomly moves to home during printing, then resumes as normal as I print directly from PC.)
---
Edit to add more information:
I use Cura 3.0.4 for printing, the stock Anet A8 firmware, and am attempting to print the cube model that comes with Windows 10. (Yes, I've tried different models, same result.)
I seem to have more issues, in the video it's visible that the feeding does not seem to work too great, but I think the random movements are the most clear and biggest problem right now, so I should tackle that first.
In Cura I've used the Pruisa I3 printer, with the following G-codes:
```
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G29
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
M117 Printing...
```
and end
```
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
```
(Yes, I added in the G29 in the start code manually, as I bought the official auto-leveling sensor. I'm not sure if it works though, but I read somewhere that I might need a different version of the firmware to support it properly.)
And here's a video showing what my printer does do exactly. It started printing from the center in this case, it seems to randomly either move to the middle or to 0,0,0 when I abort the print.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I switched to different firmware (the latest Marlin), now the problem has been resolved. So it seems to me that those random movements are not in fact normal, but a flaw in the firmware.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I see two problems in your video:
1. It looks like the first layer is built too much upwards. (The level calibration should be so that a Z-height of 0 can barely fit a sheet of paper under the nozzle. )
2. Your printer is not extruding at all. As you said, the extrusion has some problems. Extrusion problems will cause adhesion problems too.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The main problem shown in the video is because you are printing an oversized part, the random movements to X and Y is due the exceeded lines. Also the nozzle has a wrong Z0 and the part won't get adhesion to the bed.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Formating SD card fixes issue for me. I think that writing many times to the same block of SD card corrupt some block of flash SD card memory.
---
Tags: pla, extruder, heated-bed, ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-16810 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16810 | Do all slicers handle multi object .STL files correctly for multi color printing? | 2021-07-28T14:05:45.593 | # Question
Title: Do all slicers handle multi object .STL files correctly for multi color printing?
I only have experience with PrusaSlicer, where if I have one .STL file containing multiple volumes, I can click a `Split to parts` button to then be able to change color of the individual volumes.
Do other slicer softwares handle this similarly or will I face a problem in other softwares?
I'm looking to upload my files for other people to print, and I would prefer to have 1 file per print. Can I upload these .STL files containing multiple volumes or should I rather upload separate .STLs?
Edit: I was mainly looking for typical hobbyist slicers. I was looking to upload the files to a typical online 3d print sharing service for hobbyists.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Splitting up the files into separate objects should preferably be done outside a slicer, there are tools for that. Meshmixer, Blender, any CAD program that imports STL files, etc. will do that. You could upload a single file and let others worry about breaking them apart their selves if their slicer of choice doesn't accept a single file for multi colored printings.
---
Tags: slicing, stl, prusaslicer
--- |
thread-18505 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18505 | Wait for click to continue | 2021-12-03T17:50:35.647 | # Question
Title: Wait for click to continue
To help me with bed leveling my Ender 3 v2 (using stock Creality firmware, V1.0.2), I'm trying to write a G-code that will position the nozzle above each spring in sequence twice, after heating the bed. After each position, I want the printer to wait for me until I have leveled that position. I want to click the knob to continue to the next position. Also, it wouldn't hurt if I could show some instructions on the display.
This is my first G-code attempt, and I don't understand how to make the printer wait for a click, and how to show instructions.
I have tried for Wait for click: `M0`, `M71`, `M108` and `M291`.
I have tried for showing instructions: `M0`, `M117` and `M291`.
All fail. The printer just goes from one position to the next without waiting, until the entire program is completed.
Here is my last attempt:
```
M140 S60 ; Set bed temperature
M105 ; Report temperatures
M190 S60 ; Wait for bed temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
M117 Going to bottom left. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X30.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom left
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to top left. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X30.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top left
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to top right. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X190.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top right
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to bottom rigth. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X190.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom right
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to bottom left. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X30.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom left
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to top right. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X190.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top right
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to bottom rigth. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X190.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom right
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to top left. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X30.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top left
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to center. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X110.000 Y110.000 Z2.0 ; Center
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for checking
M71 Please level and click to end. Restart if not satisfied ; Show message
M140 S0 ; Set bed temperature
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X110.000 Y110.000 Z2.0 ; Home
G28 ; Home all axes
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
M84 X Y E Z ;Disable all steppers
```
# Answer
I have a partial answer.
Thanks to Chep, who created a similar file, I found that there exists a less well documented `M25` command (Pause SD print). This seems to be the command to call with 32-bit boards in an Ender 3, instead of the `M0`.
Also I found out that this `M25` works a bit buggy. It only pauses after the movement command AFTER it is executed. So you need to execute the command before moving to the place where you want to pause. This bug still persists even on Chep's file.
And it bugs out the user interface of the Ender. Because the screen seems not to refresh, showing "pause" button when already paused. And overlapping a "pause" button over the ending "confirm" button while the program is already over.
I still haven't found out how to print instructions.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, g-code
--- |
thread-18442 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18442 | Best way to put a serial number on a 3D print | 2021-11-24T22:52:17.167 | # Question
Title: Best way to put a serial number on a 3D print
I want to put in a date and serial number that would be difficult to erase or change. Is it better to print in the number or engrave it in with a laser engraver.
Material will be anti-bacterial PLA.
It will be on free masks donated to schools, I want to make sure we can identify them when they show up at the market or in shops.
# Answer
> 2 votes
For this specific application, it may be better to think in terms of a **Lot Number** for each batch instead of individual serial numbers. This will still let you trace back an item for where it was originally allocated, and greatly simplify your processing.
Under this plan, you create the STL file for the basic part and before each printing batch open the base file in even a simple tool like MS 3D Builder or TinkerCAD to emboss your number and the date, re-slice, and print.
I actually recommend a **deboss** here, where the text is recessed into the piece instead of extended outward. In this way it will be more difficult to file away without damaging the part, and again, even the basic modelling tools can quickly customize an STL file in this way.
If you really need individual serial numbers, design the part with a basic recessed rectangular cutout and print these in bulk. Then print individual plates the exact size (very slightly smaller) than the cutout with the serial number and date debossed, and superglue the plates down.
Finally, be aware there's a limit to how small the text can be, based on the size of the nozzle and the capabilities of the printer, and you may find it difficult to print very small text.
# Answer
> 4 votes
It's plastic. Nothing is difficult to remove, but it could be difficult to remove without damaging the functionality of visual quality of the part. If you want to be really devious, you could embed the serial number in an inaccessible cavity *inside the print* that's not visible without breaking it open.
However, I wonder if it would make more sense to drop this. If you're worried about students (?) or educators (?) stealing and reselling these items, does having a way to trace and punish them really benefit anyone? Even before you consider the harms from doing so, isn't the effort spent tracing (and even the effort automating generation of STLs with each serial number and slicing each one to print individually, rather than using a single gcode job) greater than the value of the item you're worried about losing?
# Answer
> -2 votes
Have you considered using a barcode rather than text. It would be easier to print clearly as there are no curves, and would be machine readable.
---
Tags: pla, 3d-design
--- |
thread-18508 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18508 | I have blind clips that are no longer being produced. I want to be able to 3D print them. What would be the best way to make a copy? | 2021-12-04T01:04:08.937 | # Question
Title: I have blind clips that are no longer being produced. I want to be able to 3D print them. What would be the best way to make a copy?
I have a set of blind clips that I want to be able to print out. They no longer produce them and I cannot find a possible place to buy them. I have minimal experience in CAD and am wondering, I have an iPhone with a LiDAR sensor. Is it feasible to be able to make a scan, turn it into a model and print it? What would be the best course of action? I will take any recommendations or advice!
I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3 with PLA and ABS available!
# Answer
There is a way to make a 3D model from the original. A lot depends on the original item. The clear clip seems to have been reproduced on Thingiverse (Valance Clip) with the procedure with which the user created his model.
Here are the steps to reproduce the clear clip according to the original user, mattfriedman:
1. Use a black marker or paint to color the profile of the item
2. Place the item on a scanner or take a top-down photo (with a white background) of the item
3. Import the image or photo into Adobe Photoshop, GIMP, or image manipulation software of your choice
4. Remove any stray marks and clean up the edges of the item's profile as best as possible
5. Import the image into Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape
6. Use the "Image Trace" or "Trace Bitmap" menu item from your particular software to vectorize the image into an SVG (you may need to do additional path and point cleanup)
7. Import the 2D SVG into Tinkercad, Fusion 360, or other modeling software.
8. Extrude to the desired width/depth.
You now have a 3D model of a real-world object without scanning.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: abs, flashforge-adventurer-3
--- |
thread-18512 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18512 | What is meant by "Junior 3D printer"? | 2021-12-04T23:22:05.587 | # Question
Title: What is meant by "Junior 3D printer"?
I am looking to buy an Ender-3 Pro, but the place I'm looking to buy from has this picture:
My question is, what is meant by "Junior" in the name?
I'm just wondering if this means it's an alternative kind of version for kids or something, or if it's just the name of that type of 3D Printer (e.g. in the way you might have a Junior Hacksaw or something)? I.e. is this the normal Ender V3 Pro?
# Answer
> 4 votes
There is no such thing as a *Junior*<sup>1</sup>, you can see the official Creality range of FDM printers on the FDM 3D PRINTER page, on their web site.
Upon a cursory comparison of the photo it is one of these:
* Ender-3 Max 3D Printer
* Ender-3 Pro 3D Printer
* Ender-3 3D Printer
However, the first one can be discounted as the spool holder is missing. So this leaves the last two.
Finally, the biggest clue is in the photo itself, as the name is written in the last line: ***Ender-3 Pro***.
Nevertheless, given the seller's random "junior" labelling, it is not entirely guaranteed that the printer is, in fact, a Pro.
Unless they are super cheap or a renowned seller, then it is probably best to avoid purchasing anything from them. Or contact the seller to see if they would clarify their misleading advert.
---
<sup>1</sup> The term *junior* could be an indication of the base level entry of the printer, or a reference to its build size, which, while not small and is pretty standard, it is not as large as some of the more pricey Creality models.
# Answer
> 1 votes
That is an Ender 3, with the vertical PSU, the older interface, and many tweaks like the drawer and filament loading knob isn't present.
Consider the Ender 3 V2 instead, which is an iteration on the same basic design and is newer.
Personally I found it cheaper to buy the V2 direct from Creality's website than to buy the older model from a local or other online seller, and it had free freight from China, and arrived in about 3 weeks.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-18493 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18493 | Can PLA be reshaped after printing if it is heated? | 2021-12-01T16:06:03.323 | # Question
Title: Can PLA be reshaped after printing if it is heated?
I want to make an anime-style figurine in Blender with long strands of wavy hair coming down from pigtails, similar to sailor moon, but more so.
They are going to be extremely challenging to print in place as they will be very thin and difficult to support.
Would it be possible simply to print long flat strips of PLA straight onto my bed 5 mm wide, 200 mm long, and a couple of mm thick, and then to heat them up after printing with a heat gun or some other means, and reshape them to make them wavy, then attach them to my model with glue before painting?
I haven't started on the model yet so I have no pictures to provide.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Yes, printing a flat strand structure and then shaping it using heat to form hair is something people already do, for example with the Hairy Lion model.
# Answer
> 1 votes
For extrusion printing you may want to add the hair with a 3d printing pen rather than trying to shape the print with heat. The print will tend to stick to anything that touches it when hot enough to reshape it. I've tried to smooth surfaces this way (heating the completed print) and it only makes them worse. Otherwise, you can try using supports as Paul point out.
# Answer
> 0 votes
YES you can reshape printed PLA with heat.
I have a bin for all my brim/cleanup offcuts, stored at the printer. When it gets a bit full I simply blast it with my hot-air gun normally used for finishing prints. This shrinks the wispy bits, and thicker parts soften and droop down under their own weight.
Downside, I think hair that is printed flat, and then softened with hot air runs the risk of looking like "just got out of a swimming pool" hair instead of anything styled or realistic.
Definitely worth a try though!
# Answer
> 0 votes
Yes you can reshape a print with heat. Do note that PLA filament starts to melt at about 60 degrees. There are actually models designed to be printed and then shaped with a hairdryer/heat gun. You can also smooth out prints but that is very tricky and I don't recommend it. If you want to smooth a print you are better off printing ABS and using acetone vapour.
Here is a print that has reshaping hair: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2007221
---
Tags: 3d-models, material
--- |
thread-18517 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18517 | Ender 3 v2 BLTouch pushing too far in X axis | 2021-12-05T11:38:25.940 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 v2 BLTouch pushing too far in X axis
I'm having issues with my Ender 3 V2 after installing the BLTouch sensor and flashing the firmware. I downloaded the precompiled firmware from Creality's site for the 4.2.2 board. The thing is, everything works fine, but the X-axis seems to be set up too wide (it lets me go up to 245 mm), which results in the head going too far to the right and hitting the extrusion profile - it makes a creaking sound and jumps a few steps. When going from this point back to X coordinate 0, the same happens on the other side. If it was just about me, I would be careful and would not go manually to the edge, but the auto-leveling process measures the board near outer edges and thus goes into this collision (and then it "confuses" the X coordinate). I tried measuring the steps/mm, but everything seems fine here.
What am I doing wrong? How come the official firmware doesn't work properly? Can I damage the stepper motor by such collisions? If not, I guess at least the carriage belt won't like it in the long run.
# Answer
> 1 votes
For anyone interested: Somewhere (I think it was Reddit) I found that the mainboard has trouble with long filenames. I changed the firmware name from `E3V2-BLTouch-3x3-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin` to something like `fw.bin`, flashed again and the issue stopped. WTH.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, firmware, bltouch
--- |
thread-18523 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18523 | Marlin firmware issues | 2021-12-06T19:03:49.240 | # Question
Title: Marlin firmware issues
So I'm working on building a Prusa i3 MK3 clone and all's gone well so far but when I make edits to the firmware and reupload it, the printer doesn't seem to be getting it. Like I changed the software endstops to new values in the code, recompiled it and reuploaded it, but when I use `M211` the printer still reports its old endstop values. Also, it seems to only be able to home to the minimum, not the maximum (not the biggest deal).
Any advice on how to get the printer to recognize its new boundaries/is there a way to just set it with a G-code?
# Answer
Did you load the new values from the firmware you uploaded with `M502`? If not, that might be your problem. See "M502 will reset all configurable settings to their "factory defaults", which settings are those?".
When you upload a firmware, this is done through a so-called binary hex file. In this file, stored in memory of the micro-controller, the complete "program" is stored as configured by your code editor (compiled, hence a binary file). Note that the user of the "program" is allowed to change values of certain parameters<sup>1)</sup>, the changes are stored in a different part of the memory that is not overwritten when a new firmware is uploaded. You manually have to get the "set" values from your new firmware file to store these into the "working memory". Please send the `M502` and the `M500` G-codes to get and store the values from the firmware.
---
<sup>1)</sup> *Do remember the inability to store custom parameters in certain older versions of Marlin in combination with certain printer controller boards (e.g. the SKR line of boards), but, this is fixed in the recent versions, storage e.g. is done on the SD card. For that reason the memory storage above is not called EEPROM but the "working memory", i.e. is doesn't have to be an EEPROM storage.*
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, prusa-i3, g-code, firmware, endstop
--- |
thread-18528 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18528 | Laser engraver on Ender 3 without taking important ports | 2021-12-07T18:03:27.053 | # Question
Title: Laser engraver on Ender 3 without taking important ports
I'm contemplating buying a laser engraver attachment for my Ender 3 Pro. Either the Creality official one or the Comgrow version.
When scanning the respective web pages/answers on here and YouTube videos, it seems like you usually unplug cables for fans and swap them with laser, etc.
**So I guess my question is**: if I still wanted to be able to easily print, let's say within 10 mins of engraving something, without opening up my printer's electronics case to swap cables every time... what would be the best approach?
Is there a way to have everything permanently plugged in and the G-code file simply dictates what is done (3D printing vs lasering).
I have a different board than the default Creality if that changes anything (a BTT E3 RRF Board). I also have the IDEX expansion board plugged in, that's currently only running a second Z-axis motor (i.e. probably has extra plugs on it).
# Answer
> 2 votes
You don't need to open the electronics casing, why not cut/split the (print) fan cable so that you can plug it quick without too much delay. The power for the laser could be fed directly from a power supply.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, laser
--- |
thread-18468 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18468 | Non-Manifold .stl file won't print properly on my ToyBox 3D printer | 2021-11-28T00:11:35.417 | # Question
Title: Non-Manifold .stl file won't print properly on my ToyBox 3D printer
I am trying to print this really cool flying toy model on my ToyBox 3D printer, but when I try to print the "copter\_key-175.stl" file it complains it is a "non-manifold shape". How can I fix this .stl file?
---
\[update START\]
*Update for future readers:* I haven't tried it yet, but the Free and Open Source slicer software, Slic3r, boasts this feature worth trying:
> **auto-repair** of non-manifold meshes (and ability to re-export them);
Update again: the **best slicers**, it seems, based on my research, are:
1. **Cura** (FOSS and professionally supported),
2. **PrusaSlicer** (FOSS, forked from Slic3r, and also professionally supported now).
Articles to look at:
1. Google search for "slic3r vs cura"
1. Slic3r vs Cura (Cura wins; Slic3r lags due to no full-time company-sponsored development): https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-vs-cura-3d-printer-slicer-software-shootout/
2. Google search for "prusaslicer vs cura"
1. PrusaSlicer vs Cura (Cura wins, but just barely, since both are professionally supported with full-time developers): https://all3dp.com/2/prusaslicer-vs-cura-differences/
\[update END\]
---
Note that I have printed many ToyBox-designed models perfectly with this printer over the last 24 hrs.
I have also split the model (to cut the last few cm off the end and shorten it) using this technique here in TinkerCad, then exported the part as a shorter part so I could print on the smaller bed of the ToyBox printer.
Here is what the "key" is supposed to look like:
And here is how it comes out instead. Notice the misaligned teeth and layers about halfway through. Once I saw it was botched, I stopped the print early.
**How can I make it print properly and/or how can I fix the .stl file?**
## Notes:
* My operating system is Linux Ubuntu 20.04
* I have Windows 10 running in the VirtualBox virtual machine in case I need to run Fusion 360 or something in Windows
* I tried installing Meshmixer inside Windows 10 and it won't open. I had read online it can be used to fix .stl files, so I was going to look into that.
## Related:
# Answer
> 3 votes
## Update 24 Mar. 2023: the maximum *usable* print volume of the ToyBox 3D printer is approximately *74 x 79 x 100 mm (width x length x height)*, *and* you must add supports to keep tall objects from tipping over and catching
1st, you must add supports to keep tall objects from bending over and catching the nozzle, like this:
Notice the side supports. Without them, this ball will not print properly. Between 60% and 80% done, it's so tall that the nozzle will eventually catch on the ball edge, tip it over, and then get jammed against it, causing it to think it hit the edge of the print volume, and forcing the center point to shift several mm in the opposite direction. This results in print sheering and possibly damage to the stepper motors or gears.
2nd, the digital bed size of the ToyBox 3D printer (when you go to load an object to print) is **75 x 80 x 100 mm** (7.5 x 8.0 x 10.0 cm).
When printing large objects up to 100mm in height, it seems to work fine. So, that limit is ok. But, when printing large objects which are the full width, ex: a 75mmx75mm circle, the object will get destroyed once the max diameter portion of the circle is reached. This is because the hard mechanical stops (screws, and metal edges of the print space) and/or limit switches of the printer will be hit, causing the print head firmware to adjust the center print point by several mm in the opposite direction. The object will then print with misaligned layers from that point forward. Since the center point just jumped several mm, the end point will be hit again on a future pass on the opposite side, causing it to jump again. It will jump like this repeatedly until the print is complete. You end up with shifted layers as shown in the photo below. This is a 75x75x75mm ball, which printed fine until the max diameter center portion was reached, at which point the mechanical edge stops were hit, the center point was (presumably) readjusted by the firmware, and the layers sheered:
So, when printing, shrink the object 1 or 2 mm (5%, or 3.75mm of 75mm is plenty, and 1%~2%, or 0.75mm~1.5mm of 75mm is probably enough) and be sure to add an outer ring as wide as or just wider than the max diameter of the object. Ex: here is a manually-added outer ring to ensure the print head starts and stays centered at the beginning:
In conclusion, the **maximum *usable* print volume** of the ToyBox 3D printer is approximately *74 x 79 x 100 mm*.
---
Back to my original answer:
## ToyBox 3D printer true print dimensions and limit switch problems
So I figured out that the problem is my print area is so small the printer was occasionally fully pressing and triggering the end-point limit switches! This apparently causes it to stop slightly early, shifting the next layer as it prints.
The printer specs state that it has a print volume of **9 x 8 x 10 cm**. However, the print design area and viewer at https://www.make.toys/ shows the design volume like this
In the square grid shown on the base plate there is 1 cm per square, except that as you can see, the far left and far-right columns are \< 1 square. Therefore, looking at this image, the usable bed area appears to be about **7.25 cm x 8 cm** (the grid size shown in the images), NOT 8 cm x 9 cm.
Furthermore, if you do NOT have the "Skip First Ring" option checked on the "Build" tab in the image below, the printer does a "wipe clean" maneuver in the shape of a spiral, circle, or ring around the object to be printed just before beginning the print. This wipes off any dangling stray print material before beginning the print. If your object fully covers the print bed dimensions, however, that ring will be even wider, causing the printer to hit its limit switches.
(**The model in this image is 10.4 cm long, which is too long, causing my printer to hit its limit switches, skewing the layers while printing.**)
So, the problem is that my part is too big. WithOUT that "Skip First Ring" box checked, the dimensions are probably further reduced by another 5 mm or so on X and Y dimensions, bringing it down to about **6.75 cm x 7.5 cm** *usable print area.* My part was 10.4 cm long. The Pythagorean Theorem says that $A^2 + B^2 = C^2$, so $C = \sqrt(A^2 + B^2)$ = $\sqrt(6.75cm^2 + 7.5cm^2)$ = **10.09 cm max** on the diagonal. **My 10.4 cm long part was too long. The printer hit the limit switches, botching the layers.**
Had I checked that box *maybe* I could have gotten away with a part closer to $\sqrt(7.25^2 + 8^2)$ = **10.8 cm long**, but that's really pushing the limits of this printer. **In the end, shrinking the part a bit more to be about 10 cm or less was all I needed to do!**
UPDATE: I've also proven conclusively by designing in www.TinkerCad.com and printing on the ToyBox that the max allowed print height is exactly **9 cm**, and it will indeed print properly all the way up to that height.
---
## I'd still like a flying propeller
That being said, even though the "key" of the model in my question printed pretty well in the end, the helicopter blade (propeller) printed horribly because the design is flawed and has a bunch of missing material and air gaps around the hub, making the propeller completely unusable!
Instead, I switched to this thing shown below, shrunk it down to 0.6x to fit my printer, set my printer settings from medium to fine resolution, and got pretty good results! I still need to further tweak and edit the design on https://www.tinkercad.com to give the pull key better clearance, and better connection with the hub gear, and I think I'll be able to get a great result! I got it to fly a few times up to 8 ft high or so, but the pull is very rough and inconsistent, so the model needs further tweaking.
<sub>Keywords: ToyBox 3D printer helicopter and toybox printer clearances, print dimensions, print volume, specs, print settings</sub>
# Answer
> 3 votes
I have printed at least 5 of them (Cura Slicer, Creality CR10s) and there have been no problems. So I can't understand your problems. I would suggest to use another slicer (Cura). I have now repaired the file with Meshmixer and added it (copter\_key-175\_meshmixer-repair.stl). Maybe this solves your problem. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901
# Answer
> 1 votes
Non-manifold objects are only accidentally solid, as sometimes it becomes unclear what is the inside and what is the outside. Some slicers attempt to fix this and do a good job of guessing how to correct it. Also, some non-manifold errors are easier to fix than others.
If your slicer is complaining about a part file being non-manifold or you suspect that this is causing a problem, you should bring it into a surface mesh editor like meshlab or blender and try to fix it with the manifold test and repair tools in either of these programs.
Typical ways an STL file could be non-manifold include:
* cracks between faces caused by round off error
* missing faces
* flipped faces
* interior faces
* faces that intersect somewhere other than an edge
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Tags: print-quality, toybox
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thread-18538 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18538 | Filament not adhering to bed for the first 10 mm after every move | 2021-12-11T17:09:01.297 | # Question
Title: Filament not adhering to bed for the first 10 mm after every move
> Update following advice from @R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE in the comments - I've increased the Z-offset from -2.97 to -3.10 and all now appears to be much better.
* **Printer:** Ender 3 V2 with heated glass bed
* **Slicer:** Cura 4.11
* **Temps:** extruder 215 °C, bed 65 °C first layer, 60 °C remaining (works the best for the filament I'm using, lower for other filament).
* **Filament:** 3DTomorrow UK PLA Filament - Anthracite Grey - 1.75 mm (But happens with all others too e.g. ERYONE, ZIRO)
* **Summary:** On the first layer, every time the printer starts extruding to the bed after a move, the first approx. 10 mm doesn't stick, but the rest sticks perfectly.
The issue, as an example, I'm trying to print a case for a Raspberry Pi which has air vents on the bottom. When the print starts, it does the line down the side which the first ~ 10 mm doesn't stick, but the rest does perfectly. It prints the skirt, which again the first ~ 10 mm doesn't stick, but the rest does, then when it gets to doing the vent slots, the same again.
The photo hopefully shows what I'm trying to explain.
When printing a raft, again the first ~ 10 mm of the extrude doesn't stick, but the remaining does.
Once the raft is printed, the first layer sticks to it perfectly well
The bed is pretty level, I'm using a BLTouch to assist and has been cleaned with alcohol before the print. Bed has been levelled and the Z-offset calibrated to -2.97.
I have *Enable Retraction* on, 5 mm, 45 mm/s speed. I've tried increasing and reducing these, increasing/decreasing print speed, manual Z-axis offset fine adjustments, etc.
I did think First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that was kind of the same issue, but there's no discussion of the issue being for every touch of the bed within the same print job.
Any advice would be appreciated. I've loitered this community for quite a while and lots of Google searching hasn't come up with any suggestions (there's actually very little I could find on this kind of troubleshooting).
# Answer
> 3 votes
From the pictures it looks like the distance between your bed and nozzle is too great. The way I see this is that the extrusion lines that should be pressed against each other have small gaps between them, and look rounded rather than flat. The only other way this could happen is with severe underextrusion/wrong esteps-per-mm, but that seems unlikely.
Note that "automatic bed leveling" **fundamentally cannot** help you get this right because it depends on a quantity it can't measure, the Z offset between the bed leveling probe and the nozzle tip. At best it can help you get the distance *consistent\[ly wrong\]*.
This is also consistent with raft fixing the problem, since the raft has extra wide extrusions in the first layer whose width will just vary if the leveling is wrong, and after that, all print heights are just relative to the top of the raft.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, heated-bed, adhesion, build-plate
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thread-18540 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18540 | Is shell scripting possible with OpenSCAD? | 2021-12-12T01:35:50.060 | # Question
Title: Is shell scripting possible with OpenSCAD?
I literally just started OpenSCAD today, so please take it easy on me, but is shell scripting possible with OpenSCAD? as in, to write a script in the OpenSCAD syntax, and have it output images, or animations? with or without having to render the image.
I've been reading the man pages, and I'm not sure if that can be done.
# Answer
> 1 votes
No. OpenSCAD is not a scripting language. You cannot use it to generate any kind of executable code. All that it does is to create static geometrical objects that can be exported as STL files (and other formats). If you want to do scripting, use a scripting language such as Python. Note that Python has some wrappers for OpenSCAD that may allow you to do what you want. For example, see OpenPySCAD.
# Answer
> 2 votes
You can invoke OpenSCAD from the command line, and have it output image renderings or STL files. The `-D` command line option lets you pass variable definitions/overrides (or arbitrary scad code fragments) in, which can be used to animate or otherwise. And, like any command line too, you can invoke it from a shell script, although using a makefile tends to be a better option.
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Tags: openscad, scripts
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thread-18543 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18543 | 3D from 2D picture options | 2021-12-12T09:18:29.137 | # Question
Title: 3D from 2D picture options
If I want to make 3D printable objects out of my old drawings, what are my options? Do I need to redraw the entire thing in 3D or is there a better way?
This is an example of the sort of pictures I have, I long ago lost the original Macromedia files so I just have them like this.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I presume that what you are saying is that you only have a rasterized image file. For example a .PNG file, and that you don't have any kind of source file containing vectors.
Since you're already a skilled artist from the looks of it, you're largely limited by the software that you have access to, or how much you're willing to spend on new software.
Probably the simplest and cheapest way would be to use a free program such as Inkscape to redraw your image as lineart only (You can import the image into the software and then trace over it). Draw it completely flat and 2 dimensional with no shading or colors. Only lines to represent edges. Save it as a Structured Vector Image (The default file for Inkskape). Then import it into a free 3D package such as blender.
This will import your image as a series of 2D lines in a 3D space. You can then use traditional 3D art skills (Which you may or may not have yet) to give it 3 dimensions.
A complex shape like that might require a resin printer to print due to the high level of detail. Making it wouldn't be a task for the faint of heart.
A more expensive option would be to commission a professional to do it for you.
---
Tags: 3d-design
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thread-18519 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18519 | Ender 5 Plus Bowden tube keeps popping out | 2021-12-05T20:07:55.623 | # Question
Title: Ender 5 Plus Bowden tube keeps popping out
My new Ender 5 Plus' Bowden tube keeps popping out of its socket on the extruder mid-print, I've tried several times and it keeps doing it even though it's locked into place securely at the start every time. Is this a known issue? And how do I resolve it?
I just got it so I doubt it's the coupler, I replaced it with a spare as my first solution, I did notice that it got almost stringy plastic around it whenever it gets popped out.... could that be indicative of what the problem is?
# Answer
> 4 votes
The coupler for the Bowden tube is probably worn out or the tube end has been scraped so that the coupler can't grab it or you have left out the clamp on the coupler.
The coupler has a sleeve that when pressed down releases the Bowden tube. There is a C-shaped clip that should go between the top lip of the sleeve and the body of the coupler that prevents the sleeve from moving and should help hold the tube more firmly. Make sure this is installed.
If the tube outside is visibly worn with scrape marks (this is rare), it might help to cut a few cm off the end so that a fresh section is gripped by the coupler. Be sure to cut the end flush so that there is no gap between the heat break and the Bowden tube or you will have other problems.
Alternately (and this is more likely), the coupler itself is worn out, possibly with bent or broken-off teeth. If this is the case, you will need to replace the coupler.
# Answer
> 1 votes
OK well I feel silly, it turns out it wasn't fully pushed into place, I pushed it in feeling it lock and thought it was secure, when it actually wasn't, pushing it in till it feels locked up twice resulted in it being properly secured. (sorry if my description doesn't make a lot of sense, I'm not good at that kind of thing, so I'm trying my best.)
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Tags: creality-ender-5, bowden
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thread-18546 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18546 | What protection does a face mask offer when using a resin printer? | 2021-12-12T16:32:07.713 | # Question
Title: What protection does a face mask offer when using a resin printer?
Printer manufacturers such as Elegoo ship their printers with masks and advice users to wear them when handling resin or unwashed prints.
In what way does the mask protect you?
For example, do the masks provide protection from inhaling toxic fumes, or are they primarily to prevent resin entering the mouth or nose?
# Answer
It depends entirely on what mask filter you use.
The classic FFP range only filter particulates, athough there are filters that will protect against gases too. You would have to find out what sort of fumes are released from the resin (if any) and specify a filter accordingly.
The image below shows the filter type and what it can filter.
image link: https://www.bugoutbagbuilder.com/blog/best-gas-mask-filters-2019
> 2 votes
---
Tags: safety
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thread-18186 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18186 | Are there any free scanning programs available? | 2021-10-03T22:05:09.753 | # Question
Title: Are there any free scanning programs available?
I keep looking around for 3D scanning software but can't find anything I like. Any suggestions? I'm more looking for a free app so I can use my android phone, but am open to desktop based solutions too.
# Answer
> 1 votes
## 1. Meshroom
https://alicevision.org/
Meshroom can take any number of overlapping photographs and turn them into a 3D model. Those pictures can be taken from any phone, or even a drone. For best results, you will need to know the make/model and sensor size of the camera.
Works on Windows/Linux and requires a CUDA compatible video card
**Resources**
## 2. ADOP
https://github.com/darglein/ADOP
ADOP is a neural network similar to Meshroom that can combine photos into a 3D model, however, it has a very impressive ability to generate highly accurate data from just a few pictures. It also provides a virtual reality viewer.
Works on Linux/Windows. Does require some familiarity compiling code
**Resources**
# Answer
> 0 votes
I personally use SCANN3D. It is available on Android but I don't know if it is for desktop too.
---
Tags: software, scanning
--- |
thread-18554 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18554 | Massive blobs/under extrusion/"pearl necklace" only after first few layers (Ender 3 V2) | 2021-12-13T21:16:32.303 | # Question
Title: Massive blobs/under extrusion/"pearl necklace" only after first few layers (Ender 3 V2)
I am struggling with a problem. In short: I have managed to set up my Ender 3 V2 in such a way that the first few layers print (almost) perfectly, but after the first few layers (do not know exactly, but maybe after 2-4 layers) I am having massive issues with (maybe) under extrusion, with the filament coming out in a "pearl necklace" shape. Here are a few images for illustration:
First layer of bed level test (this source). The filament is nicely flat on the print bed, also it still sticks when I rub it with my fingers.
Third/fourth layer of bed level test. The upper layers are of this "pearl necklace" shape (maybe there is an established name for that?), i.e. something like ---o---o---o---
Similarly with the Benchy. I printed the first few layers. The first layer is quite clean and you can make out the font nicely (this turned upside down, i.e. you're looking at it from the bottom).
After the first few layers, the shape of the filament is again this problematic pearl necklace shape (you can already see that at the boundary of the previous image, where you can see those layers).
I'm totally at loss at how to resolve this issue. How can the print quality degrade so much after the first few layers? I don't even have any good hypotheses (temperature dropping after some time? Z-offset needs to be adjusted for every layer? Hot end starts clogging during the print?).
# Answer
So I finally managed to solve the issue. It was indeed (massive) under extrusion (during the whole print).
**Let me first explain why this does not show up in the first layers** (according to what I read somewhere else online):
The under-extrusion issue is already present in the first layers, but it does not become visible due to the print bed giving enough "counterpressure". This means that the material is squished between the bed and the nozzle, making up for the under-extrusion. After a few layers, this does not happen anymore, and the lack of flow begins to show.
**How I solved the issue:**
I made an extrusion calibration according to this Snapmaker forum article. Basically, I measured off 100 mm from my extruder input, marked the 100 mm mark with a black sharpie and told the printer to extrude (what he believes to be) 100 mm of filament. This turned out the be not 100 mm but rather approximately 25 mm (which means that the printer is extruding about 25 % of what it is supposed to do). Then I went and changed the printer's flow rate to four times the current rate, which solved the issue.
**Why was the extruder so bad?**
I don't know exactly, but I had to hot-glue two parts in my extruder together because they were freely moving against each other and the motor's torque was not transferred to the extruder's axle. Could be I introduced some friction this way, but I saw the same under-extrusion issues before I noticed this issue, so I don't really know.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, underextrusion
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