id
stringlengths 8
14
| url
stringlengths 40
58
| title
stringlengths 2
150
| date_created
stringdate 2008-09-06 22:17:14
2024-03-31 23:12:03
| text
stringlengths 149
7.14M
|
|---|---|---|---|---|
thread-19048
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19048
|
Stepper motors on the extruder and Z-axis seem to freeze up during any fast movements
|
2022-03-04T12:35:11.823
|
# Question
Title: Stepper motors on the extruder and Z-axis seem to freeze up during any fast movements
OK here's some background of the problem:
Symptoms:
* All retracts on the extruder produce a screeching noise. The extruder extrudes normally all other times.
* Any fast move on the Z-axis also produces a screeching noise and the Z-axis will move normally at all other times.
* This appears to happen regardless of any printing state whether the heaters are on or not it will still occur it even happens during the ABL process.
Specifications of the printer:
* Mainboard: MKS Gen L V2
* Drivers: TMC2209 UART
* Stepper motors: Stepperonline 17HS15-1504S 1.8 deg 1.5A
* Pulleys: GT2 16T
* Leadscrew: 2 mm pitch T8
* Hotend: E3D V6
OK so basically I performed an upgrade of my stepper drivers as well as the leadscrew and pulleys on my 3D printer which was originally a Tevo tornado and at the start of every print I would experience a loud screeching noise coming from the Z-axis and I originally identified it to be a single line in my G-code that would only trigger the screech if it was preceded by another line and by commenting out the first line I was able to start printing
Lines in question:
```
G1 X3 Y1 Z15 F9000 ; Move safe Z height to shear strings
G0 X1 Y1 Z0.2 F9000 ; Move in 1mm from edge and up [z] 0.2mm
```
However, while I was able to start printing, I soon found out that the extruder was doing the same thing with every retract it would create a loud screech and the filament wouldn't be retracted this caused heavy stringing as well as poor layer adhesion resulting in prints failing. I figured the problem was with the version of Marlin I was using so I attempted to use the latest bug fix. However, I was still experiencing the same problems. I attempted to see if the stepper current was the problem and after identifying that the stepper current was not the cause of the problem, I figured I needed to replace the stepper motors and after replacing the stepper motors the problem still remained. I figured the problem must be with Marlin so I attempted to use Klipper. However, I am still experiencing the same and now I can't even complete a mesh bed leveling as the movements that Klipper uses are triggering the loud screeching and causing the steppers to freeze up.
I am unsure as to what could be causing this as I think I've checked everything that could be causing it so I'm not quite sure how to proceed I've also made a video that should show the problem in action. So I guess I'm wondering what's my next troubleshooting step?
I have tried changing the drivers back to TMC2208s there have been no changes on both Klipper and Marlin.
I tried switching to an MKS Gen L V2.1 in case it was a mainboard problem, still experiencing problems.
The only other thing I think I can try is running the TMC2209s in standalone mode
# Answer
I haven't had time to view the video, but in general, the symptom you're seeing means you're trying to drive the stepper above the max RPM it can handle. Roughly speakling, coils (in the motor) resist a change in current, and past a certain point, a given voltage is insufficient to change the coil currents to perform a step before it's time for the next step. Typical steppers in cheap 3D printers max out around 1500-2000 RPM and lose power (meaning they'll likely work under no load) a little bit before that.
To figure out your motor RPM, multiply the axis speed (in mm/s) by steps per mm (full steps, not microsteps, so divide by number of microsteps per step) to get steps/s, then convert to rotations/min by multiplying by 60 and dividing by 200 (steps per rotation for a 1.8° stepper).
> 0 votes
# Answer
The maximum RPM depends on motor current. Higher current, lower max rpm.
I checked your klipper.conf and I can say that you should definitely reduce the currents for all motors. Extruder and Z motors at 0.9 A is crazy, for example. X and Y 0.7 A is enough, for Z and extruder 0.4 A is good already.
Also, you request F9000 which is impossible on that printer, therefore you are automatically limited by the firmware max speed. Try manually asking a more reasonable speed, like F2000. Keep decreasing until it works. Try decreasing the acceleration too: you have 120, try with 50 which is good already for Z moves. If it works, increase it progressively.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, extruder, z-axis, stepper-driver, stepper
---
|
thread-7676
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7676
|
How to add menu options to the (Marlin firmware) LCD menu?
|
2018-12-17T10:52:57.067
|
# Question
Title: How to add menu options to the (Marlin firmware) LCD menu?
Where is the correct Marlin firmware file and location to add code that I want to shop up in the LCD menu of my printer, and then execute the function I write when the button is pressed?
For example I want to add a menu item that says "Preheat Custom" that is in the same menu as "preheat PLA" and "preheat ABS" and then runs code to heat to values I specify.
*I'm running Marlin Firmware version 1.1.9 on a Creality Ender 3.*
# Answer
> 9 votes
The answer to your question (baring in mind that the question is raised for Marlin 1.1.9) is the file ultralcd.cpp. Nowadays, you can also enable extra option through the Configuration\_adv.h file, just enable:
```
#define CUSTOM_USER_MENUS
```
and edit the options beneath it to your needs (otherwise it will use the preset values from the Configuration.h file).
---
**Add custom items using ultralcd.cpp**
This is how I used to do it if you want to add items to the menu in Marlin Firmware through the ultralcd.cpp. It is best to first look at the current implementation of the menu items. As you already mention `Preheat PLA`, that would be the first to search for. Searching in files is easy when you go to the github website with the Marlin firmware sources, functionality is available for searching in the files. Alternatively, download a copy of the firmware and use a free "grep" utility to search in files.
Searching for `Preheat PLA` will show you a bunch of language translation files. These point to the use of a constant `MSG_PREHEAT_1` which finds its presence in ultralcd.cpp. This hints to function `lcd_preheat_m1_menu` that is called by `MENU_ITEM` which adds menu items to LCD. You could start there to add your own option.
---
**Demonstration**
As a quick demonstration, I've added a `CUSTOM PREHEAT` item by copying the `lcd_preheat_m2_menu` function in ultralcd.cpp and renamed this `lcd_preheat_m3_menu` (a full functional item needs changes within the `lcd_preheat_m3_menu` as it now uses the constants from the ABS preheat option).
You then add the item to the menu by changing this part of the code:
```
//
// Preheat for Material 1 and 2
//
#if TEMP_SENSOR_1 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_2 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_3 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_4 != 0 || HAS_HEATED_BED
MENU_ITEM(submenu, MSG_PREHEAT_1, lcd_preheat_m1_menu);
MENU_ITEM(submenu, MSG_PREHEAT_2, lcd_preheat_m2_menu);
// ADD THIS LINE:
MENU_ITEM(submenu, "CUSTOM PREHEAT", lcd_preheat_m3_menu);
#else
MENU_ITEM(function, MSG_PREHEAT_1, lcd_preheat_m1_e0_only);
MENU_ITEM(function, MSG_PREHEAT_2, lcd_preheat_m2_e0_only);
#endif
```
After compiling and uploading to the printer board, enter the `Prepare` menu and scroll down to see:
# Answer
> 2 votes
As Mark said, Marlin supports a number of menu items in it's advanced configuration. These items are meant to run custom G-code, which in this case (adding a preheat action with custom target extruder and bed temp) is enough to fill your needs. So, let's see that advanced configuration file: Configuration\_adv.h. The section we are looking for is almost at the end of the file, you can ctrl+f for "CUSTOM\_USER\_MENUS" to find it.
```
#define CUSTOM_USER_MENUS
#if ENABLED(CUSTOM_USER_MENUS)
#define USER_SCRIPT_DONE "M117 User Script Done"
#define USER_SCRIPT_AUDIBLE_FEEDBACK
//#define USER_SCRIPT_RETURN // Return to status screen after a script
#define USER_DESC_1 "Do the trick"
#define USER_GCODE_1 "G91\nG0 z5\nG0 y10"
#define USER_DESC_2 "Park"
#define USER_GCODE_2 "G27 P2"
//#define USER_DESC_2 "Preheat for PLA"
//#define USER_GCODE_2 "M140 S" STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED) "\nM104 S" STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND)
//#define USER_DESC_3 "Preheat for ABS"
//#define USER_GCODE_3 "M140 S" STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED) "\nM104 S" STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_2_TEMP_HOTEND)
//#define USER_DESC_4 "Heat Bed/Home/Level"
//#define USER_GCODE_4 "M140 S" STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED) "\nG28\nG29"
//#define USER_DESC_5 "Home & Info"
//#define USER_GCODE_5 "G28\nM503"
#endif
```
The source code downloaded from the official repo actually comes with some examples (the ones commented) and I added two more just for fun. To get your custom preheat menu item working you'll make use of the following Gcodes:
# Answer
> 2 votes
The supplement on how to proceed with custom menus in practice:
Enable (uncomment) this line in `configuration_adv.h`:
```
#define CUSTOM_USER_MENUS
```
Below there are 5 sample entries, later you can change them or remove/comment out. You can add new, for example:
```
#define USER_DESC_6 "Home Z (0.2)"
#define USER_GCODE_6 "G28 Z\nG0 Z0.2"
#define USER_DESC_7 "Fan on"
#define USER_GCODE_7 "M106 S255"
#define USER_DESC_8 "Fan off"
#define USER_GCODE_8 "M107"
```
Marlin currently (v2.0.7.2) supports up to 25 menu items (see menu\_custom.cpp). There may be gaps in these numbers, so you can comment out some unnecesary options without fixing numbering of others, which could be really convenient.
Custom commands can be executed in runtime (when already printing). I could use the above "home Z" after manually tuning Z endstop to correct first layer's height quickly, without restarting the print. So you can actually make harm to ongoing print as well.
# Answer
> 1 votes
There might be a better solution.
Marlin supports custom user menus, in `configuration_adv.h`, you probably should try to keep your changes limited to the `configuration*.h` files.
The menu code is kind of ugly and you can easily break things.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Preheat Constants - Up to 5 are supported without changing the code just add a new one and then build
<pre><code>#define PREHEAT_1_LABEL "PLA"
#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND 215
#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED 70
#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_CHAMBER 35
#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255
#define PREHEAT_2_LABEL "PETG"
#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_HOTEND 235
#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED 70
#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_CHAMBER 35
#define PREHEAT_2_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255
#define PREHEAT_3_LABEL "ABS"
#define PREHEAT_3_TEMP_HOTEND 270
#define PREHEAT_3_TEMP_BED 100
#define PREHEAT_3_TEMP_CHAMBER 35
#define PREHEAT_3_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255
#define PREHEAT_4_LABEL "NYLON"
#define PREHEAT_4_TEMP_HOTEND 260
#define PREHEAT_4_TEMP_BED 65
#define PREHEAT_4_TEMP_CHAMBER 35
#define PREHEAT_4_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255
```
</code></pre>
---
Tags: marlin, firmware
---
|
thread-19191
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19191
|
Which 3D printing material is best for floating designs?
|
2022-04-04T15:25:08.643
|
# Question
Title: Which 3D printing material is best for floating designs?
I am trying to print a shape (e.g. square container) using clear resin. However, I am facing the problem of the design sinking when I put it water. I am right now trying to make it hollow from the inside in some spots to reduce its density, but not sure how far can that take me. It is necessary for me that the print floats!
Do you guys have any tips? like a different print mater? or a change in shape that will help the design float?
# Answer
> 3 votes
## The material doesn't matter\*
Floating designs are exactly that: **designs**. If the design is made to float, and your printer can create a watertight shell (which is a different problem than the material), then you can use any material. Well, almost any, because:
## Only one caveat remains
The only type of material that isn't suitable is any material that will dissolve in the fluid it will swim in. Like PVA in water.
Otherwise, the material only matters for *other* properties, but **not** for "it can float".
## How to design a floating item?
When does a design float? Well, the rule described by Archimedes is often described as "An item floats if when the volume of water it displaces is lighter than the item." In other words: if its density is lower than water.
However, it's not that simple after the first look: What is the volume and weight of the boat? After all, we can make steel, which weighs upwards of 3 tons per cubic meter float while water is only 1 ton a cubic meter. What is the mystery part? It is simple: the underwater ship does not allow ingress.
### Draft depth
So, we want a solid wall from the lowest part to the line the item will sink into when it reaches equilibrium. That's the draft depth. For ships, there is a formula to quickly calculate the draft depth based on knowing how much water will be displaced:
* Seal all the holes and gaps in the boat. Now measure the volume the item displaces when it is put onto the water. Call it $V$.
* Take the surface area of the boat. Call it $A$.
* The Draft $d$ is now $d=\frac V A$
In the alternative:
* Make a *volume item* by removing the holes into the contained volume and filling those voids to the upper rim. Have your CAD tell you the contained Volume. This is $V\_w$.
* Weigh your printed item. This is $M\_p$. We turn that into Displaced Volume $V\_d$ by using water density: $V\_d=M\_p\*1000\frac {\text {mm}^3}{\text g}$
* Make a plane cut of our volume item, so that the lower part of the item has the same volume as the displaced volume. That is how much of the boat will be underwater.
The second method also works for tilted or very asymmetric shapes (like a bot listing), while the first is roughly over the thumb.
Now, how does that help with the design? Remember, we had sealed the slots earlier. If the slots are in any way below our draft depth, then water ingress happens through that slot - and the slot will have to be moved above the draft depth.
### Dasign adjustments
There are several adjustments to get the item to have a lower draft, but all of them boil down to reducing the density.
In the case of your design, the hanging floor of the basin can have a lot of it cut away and turned into a *grid* of sorts, which would reduce the impact this part of the print has to the total density.
You could also move the slots up enough so that it will be above the waterline, even if filled to an expected degree.
If you *really* need to include voids, you will need to alter your printing code in between layers, because resin printers don't typically raise the print fuly out of the resin vat and have such hollows filled with resin as a result. And please try to avoid Cupping
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, resin, water-resistance
---
|
thread-19196
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19196
|
What is this 4 pin header on the Creality 4.2.3 board?
|
2022-04-06T00:58:12.090
|
# Question
Title: What is this 4 pin header on the Creality 4.2.3 board?
What might these 4 pins be on the Creality 4.2.3 board be?
The silkscreen says
```
G
SC
SD
V
```
It is next to the pin header for the LCD, so I suspect it is either a UART or TFT port.
Googling I suspect `SD` *might* be short for SDA and `SC` *might* be short for `SCL`. Which are common I2C pin descriptions.
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/23307#issuecomment-996371949
# Answer
> 2 votes
I found the unofficial schematics for the very similar 4.2.2 Creality board.
It contains a 4 pin header titled ICSP port. Note that these appear to be 3.3 V pins
---
Tags: creality, part-identification
---
|
thread-16661
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16661
|
Generating height map with Rep Rap
|
2021-07-03T04:11:56.937
|
# Question
Title: Generating height map with Rep Rap
I recently did a G29 (run mesh calibration) and my printer did a 25 point probe and reported back the stats to the console. After this I went to the height map section and it says "height map not available" and no stats can be used here.
So I tried to load the height map using G29 S1 and am getting:
`G29 S1 Error: G29: Failed to load height map from file heightmap.csv: Could not find file '/opt/dsf/sd/sys/heightmap.csv'`
Does anyone know what I am doing wrong? Below is info about my control board and firmware.
RepRapFirmware for Duet 3 MB6HC version 3.1.1 running on Duet 3 MB6HC v1.01 or later (SBC mode)
# Answer
> 1 votes
This looks like an older question but thought that I would post anyway in case someone else stumbles upon this question like I just did.
An ownership change to the `/opt/dsf/sd/sys` directory can create a situation where heightmap files are unable to be saved. There are a couple of ways to check.
How to check - Method 1: Try creating a new config file from the GUI (under the same menu as your config.g file, same area where the heightmap file is supposed to be saved). If there are any issues creating or saving the file, it is a good indicator that the dir ownership has changed.
How to check - Method 2: Open a terminal and run `stat /opt/dsf/sd/sys`. There should be an area that lists the ownership and both areas (user and group) should list `dsf` as the owner. If the owner is `pi` (standard default user) or anything else then this is likely the issue.
Solution: To reset the folder ownership back to the correct setting, open a terminal and run `sudo chown -R dsf:dsf /opt/dsf/sd/sys`.
NOTE: If you found that the underlying issue is folder ownership, it is also worth checking the other directories under the `/opt/dsf/sd` path and the other directories and update with the correct permission fix where necessary.
---
Tags: reprap
---
|
thread-19208
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19208
|
Not printing the holes
|
2022-04-08T11:30:13.170
|
# Question
Title: Not printing the holes
I am new at this and maybe my model is not the best, I adapted it for another one actually. Can you tell me why I can't get the holes printed? I already checked the faces and they are all in the correct orientation (I think)
What happens is that I start printing with the holes facing down and they are not printed at all. I never let it keep going for long but it seems to be completely filled inside.
You can check the file here.
# Answer
# The problem is internal geomoetry
The body you modeled consists of a non-manifold shell: There exists a fully enclosed shell on the inside of the item that tries to define an "outside" of the body. In the following picture, I have hidden part of the geometry to better show the problematic internal surfaces in orange:
Automatic processes such as Meshmixer or Windows 10 3D builder interpret such an internal, one-sided open cylinder as "This probably is missing a surface on both ends". This solution leads to two intersecting and manifold shells - a cylinder overlapping the drilled holes and the body with the drilled holes \- which then promptly get treated with a boolean union... and voila! No more holes. Or even no more outer shell as the easiest solution is to just stitch that lower surface and discard the rest. This is what happens when Meshmixer does just that: you are left with the cone half and some inverted artifact areas.
So the best solution is to ensure the parts don't contain such volumes encased by a non-manifold surface in the first place. Due to the nature of the part, in this case, it is rather simple: Simply removing the circle of vertices that spans up both the plane, as well as the cylinder, marked orange results in all internal surfaces getting removed. Note that due to the orange parts sharing (at least partially) vertices with the wanted outside, this has to be done manually. Would both surfaces share no vertex, a simple "separate shells" operation could result in a very quick way to remove offending structures.
Without the internal geometry, the model gets interpreted correctly - the mere presence of such superfluous internal geometry makes the slicer believe that some surfaces are inverted or missing, and thus need to be inverted or stitched - and the solution to the slicing is... utter mess.
> 2 votes
# Answer
The overall appearance is that the normals are "normal," that you have no reversed facets, but there are discontinuities within the model that Meshmixer and Netfabb show as failure points. Windows 10 3DBuilder also attempts a repair which fills in the holes.
The Meshmixer capture image shows red lines and points at the flaws in the model. Both above programs fill the faces, which works fine on the cylinder, but fills in the plane where the holes reside, as well as removes the internal holes/cylinders, preventing a simple plane cut repair.
Additional examination of the original model shows an internal cylinder formed axially on the end face red warning markers in the image above. I used Rhino3D v6 to slip inside, select the cylinder and remove it. Because the cylinder is "inside" the overall model, there's no inside face and outside face, causing the software to glitch.
On the red line along the circumference of the cylinder, there's an internal disk/disc with an internal diameter to match the previously removed internal cylinder. As it also resides within the overall model, the same trouble applies: no true inside/outside surface for the software to comprehend.
Once these were removed, a problematic set of errors appeared. I'm working on that. Work completed. Windows 10 3DBuilder has a pretty amazing repair facility, once the deep stuff is cleaned away. The end result passes the Meshmixer Inspector test and I suspect will work for you. The cylinder appears to be 37 mm in diameter (about an inch and a half) which is rather tiny, but with the flaws repaired, will scale up just fine.
It loaded into Simplify3D slicer with no errors and appears will print nicely, although with support required along the beveled portion of the cylinder.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, slicing
---
|
thread-19210
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19210
|
My Ender 3 v2 has randomly turned off and no longer turns on. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
|
2022-04-08T18:26:00.620
|
# Question
Title: My Ender 3 v2 has randomly turned off and no longer turns on. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
About a day ago my Ender 3 v2 just shut off while printing. It didn’t really bother me since this has happened many times before and switching the power supply off and then turning it on would fix the issue. This time though the printer is no longer turning on. I opened up the power supply and the indicator light is turning on, but when I check the outputs with a voltage meter it says 0. What could be the problem here?
# Answer
I'm not familiar with that particular power supply, but usually they have a fuse. In your case it's more likely to be a capacitator causing the problem though as fuses are not intermittent problems and they're usually situated before any board lights for obvious reasons. They normally either work or fail.
I'm assuming you checked for loose wires and connections.
This is a job for an electrician, capacitators cannot easily be tested without proper equipment and need some good soldering skills to replace properly. If they're liquid filled then you can sometimes see doming on the top of the capacitator where it looks a bit deformed. Or even a leak. If they're solid state then there is no easy way to see if they're failing.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-19215
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19215
|
Weird top layers on Ender 3 Pro
|
2022-04-10T07:33:36.303
|
# Question
Title: Weird top layers on Ender 3 Pro
This problem has been occurring for a while. On the top of round objects, you can see the individual layers. Maybe I just need a lower layer height.
# Answer
At the top of curves layers will always be more visible because the layers are increasing offset from each other. Layer height will help with this, but if you really want it smooth you will need to do some post-processing.
Usually if possible I avoid having a top surface like that of any significant size. But when I do I either leave it and post process or add some little design elements to break it up a bit. So it's still there but not really noticeable.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Kilisi is absolutely right that you necessarily (without advanced non-planar slicing techniques that aren't available in production slicers) have a "stairstep" effect whenever you have a shallow angle top surface like that. However, it looks from your picture like you also have some *gaps* that are accentuating the problem and making your top surface non-watertight. This can be fixed.
Slicers (at least Cura) are fairly bad about figuring out where they have to put material under the very top layer to ensure that you have a solid wall of the desired thickness. Where the outer wall face is pointing almost-upward, you would need either a lot more outer perimeters than the shell thickness you want, because they're significantly offset from each other (often by as much or more than the whole 2D wall width) at each successive layer. Using excessively many walls will solve this, but wastes a lot of print time and material. Using more top layers is the easiest fix I know. I find that 5 top layers at 0.2 layer height pretty much always gives solid curved tops, even with spherical top shape. The only way that might fail is if you have really low infill and they all "sink in" rather than bonding properly.
Of course these gaps could also be caused by underextrusion or misplaced extrusion. Check instructions for enabling and calibrating Linear Advance/Pressure Advance on your printer for one of the big ingredients in fixing top gaps and related extrusion inaccuracy problems.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-19219
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19219
|
Creality Ender 3 V2 little yellow switch on power supply
|
2022-04-10T20:13:44.160
|
# Question
Title: Creality Ender 3 V2 little yellow switch on power supply
I just bought and built a Creality Ender 3 V2. The last step of the setup is to flip this little yellow switch on the power supply to be either 115 V or 230 V. From my other research, I think that I have to flip the switch to 115 V because I live in the US. Since US standard outlets give 120 V of electricity and not 115 V, I am confused. Why is 115 V "correct" if the voltage I will supply is actually 120 V? Will this extra 5 volts burn out the printer?
# Answer
It won't burn it out. The voltage is between 110 to 125. Power supplies are designed to work in that range. So sometimes you'll see appliances rated for 110 V, 115 V, 120 V... they actually are all the same.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, power-supply
---
|
thread-5508
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5508
|
Tuning line width and flow compensation in Cura
|
2018-02-18T10:59:29.483
|
# Question
Title: Tuning line width and flow compensation in Cura
I'm currently in the process of fine-tuning my cheap CTC i3 clone. I'm using Cura 3.1 for slicing.
After calibrating the extruder steps, I wanted to optimize the line width and flow compensation parameters. I am using a 0.4 mm nozzle and therefore set the line width parameter to 0.4 mm in Cura. I then printed a cube with 0% infill, 1 wall line and no top layers (basically an open cube with 4 bottom layers). The wall width I measured on the printed result is 0.52 mm. To correct for the difference I set the flow compensation to 80% and repeated the print. The wall width I got from this was 0.45 mm, which is much better than before. There is only one problem: the parallel lines in the four bottom layers do not touch, so the print is not watertight. Up to now I assumed that Cura would calculate the distance between the lines from the line width setting. So with 0.45 mm lines and line width set to 0.4 mm there should even be some overlap.
Why am I seeing this effect? Am I getting something fundamentally wrong here?
# Answer
> 1 votes
That is very bizarre. Since GCODE describe each movement of the printing head (so, the printer does not get to decide anything in terms of printing strategy, it just executes), I can only see three possibilities that would explain what's going on.
**The print is being scaled up at printer level**. This could for example be due to your firmware having your steppers improperly calibrated and moving them too much for a given unit of measure (say you say 1mm, they move 1.5mm instead). This is easy to check: if this is the case, your cube will be scaled up (so - using the example above - if your cube is 10x10x10 it will come out 15x15x15).
**You are printing with a raft**. Then there is no problem with your set-up, the first layer(s) of a raft are not solid, but intentionally "grated". Check your settings to verify.
**Cura is producing the "wrong" gcode**. This could be *really wrong* (as in "you found a bug", in which case you should report it on their github), or just *look wrong* (as in "you found a weird combination of setting producing that gcode", in which case you should reset the settings to their default and see the problem disappear). Either way, if the gcode is "wrong", you should notice the gaps in the gcode preview mode in Cura.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It's impossible to get a true measure with calipers because of the bumps from layer lines. The printer/slicer is working on an average of the peaks and troughs but the calipers only measures the peaks. Thus, after measuring and compensating, you told it to under-extrude and it did.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Cura does not adjust line width to account for lower flow (aka extrusion multiplier), they are independent settings. Therefore, if you have to reduce extrusion to get the correct wall thickness, then as you said, the lines may not be close enough together to fuse properly and you'll have a weak part. Try reducing the line width. First though, I would take the below troubleshooting steps:
1. Calibrate e-steps in firmware
2. Calibrate the actual diameter of the filament you're using
3. Calibrate flow for the correct wall thickness
4. Adjust line width in Cura if needed to get proper fusing
Lastly you might want to check for a partial nozzle clog which can cause under-extrusion, though that is usually not consistent
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, extrusion
---
|
thread-19225
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19225
|
Practical overhang limits
|
2022-04-11T10:00:15.477
|
# Question
Title: Practical overhang limits
What are the real overhang limits? I see a lot online about 45 %, then up to 60 %, but I'm routinely doing them at up to 90 % for "shortish" distances and 80%+ for several centimeters at a time. I haven't tried to see how far I can do it, since I don't have filament to waste on that sort of thing.
It's making me wonder how believable all the YouTube and website experts are. Same thing with stringing, they all talk about it on Ender 3's but this print has been going for 25 hours and has maybe two tiny strings.
This is the second time I've printed this same STL with no supports.
* 0.2 mm layer height
* Ender 3 Pro
* Generic PLA
# Answer
"Real overhang limits" are hard to define. If you want *accurate extrusion*, such that precision parts fit together correctly or angled geometric surfaces that are supposed to be flat come out flat, each extrusion line must have at least some minimal portion of itself (probably including its center line) printed on top of and against existing material underneath that already has sufficient rigidity (both geometrically and in terms of cooling) not to deflect when printing against it. In this sense, the overhang angle is `arctan(lw * (1-k) / lh)` where `lh` is layer height, `lw` is line width (normally nozzle width), and `k` is the portion of overlap you demand. For example at 0.4 line width, 0.2 layer height, and 50% overlap, you get out exactly 45°.
If you just want the printed part to have basic structural integrity, things get a lot more fuzzy, and dependent on the geometry - particularly, the convexity/cocavity of any overhanging extrusions. Concave overhangs, like the inside of a spherical dome, will *quickly fail* as soon as you lose most or all of the overlap - expect them to hard-fail at `arctan(lw/lh)` (63° in 0.4/0.2 case) since the material will just be dragged inward around the curve with nothing to stick to. You might get a little bit more overhang if there's already a horizontally adjacent extrusion in the new layer for the material to stick to, but in my experience it will be unreliable.
Convex overhangs, on the other hand, can work out even when they're extreme. This is because the curvature of the toolhead path pulls the new material towards/against a region where it has existing material to bond to.
Keep in mind that layer height is a free parameter you can tune, that greatly increases the overhang available to you. Some slicers also have "adaptive layer height" settings to use thinner layers precisely in the layers that have severe overhangs. Line width is also a parameter you can tune, and increasing it works in your favor up to a point. But once you get to a point where the "wider than nozzle" line is attempted over thin air, it will fail badly, sagging down rather than expanding to the desired width, and not bonding to adjacent lines. So if you use wider lines to get better overhangs, you need to be very attentive not to go over angles that would place their centers off of the previous layer.
> 1 votes
# Answer
It is very difficult to determine a definitive number/value for the overhang angle, this is very dependent on the temperature, speed, material, nr. of walls amount of cooling fan percentage and the effectivity of the fan duct and your object geometry. Probably more settings are applicable.
You could find out what the specific values for you printer and your settings are by printing an overhang test, e.g. like this one:
Such a test will give you definitive answers on the overhang angle for your specific slicer settings and machine capabilities.
> 3 votes
# Answer
From my limited experience there is very little in the way of overhangs that won't print for a short distance. Depending what you're printing and what it's end use will be.
In this case it needs to be robust enough for daily use holding napkins and toothpicks and cutlery at a restaurant.
The model in the question printed for about 3 centimeters well over the threshold as shown in the picture and will print a bit more before joining the rest of the arm.
The overhang tests available online are in my opinion a waste of time. It would be very bad design to print something like them because if it's not joining anything it would be too fragile to be any use. Dropping it off a table accidently or breathing too hard near it might result in it snapping.
So if the distance is short anything up to about 80 - 85 % is possible. What happens is that the leading edge bends upwards a little bit after it prints. Then the next layer heats it soft and pushes it down and deposits on top of it (which then warps upwards) until it eventually reaches the join where the final warp is pushed down and joins nicely.
You can do all the fancy tests you want, but this is how it actually works in practice.
I find that post processing afterwards is minimal, less than if I'd used supports.
> -1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality
---
|
thread-19221
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19221
|
Does an uneven resin printer matter if the build plate is level with LCD?
|
2022-04-10T20:52:14.880
|
# Question
Title: Does an uneven resin printer matter if the build plate is level with LCD?
I am using an Elegoo Saturn S and have leveled the build plate per manufacturer's instructions a handful of times. However, I have yet to get a successful print except for the rook model that came with the printer and a couple Validation Matrix prints, which are pretty thin. I've switched resins and am finding more luck with grey vs white. White always resulted in delamination at some point early in the print and supports not printing (even with thicker supports). Grey is printing alright for the most part but most of the raft falls off the build plate. There's just enough adhesion that the print does not outright fail (surprisingly) but a good 60%-70% of the raft is hanging loose. I had one print that could have finished and the current print is about half loose
I assume that this is a leveling issue, but as I said, I've leveled the bed numerous times. I bought a new build plate (to counteract another problem) and I've recently changed the FEP. It wasn't until this change and switching to grey resin that I've had any remote success. One thing I've noticed is that the resin pools more to the left side suggesting the work area is not level. Would this matter? I figured that if the build plate is level with the LCD, it shouldn't matter if everything is off. The angle seems to be about 2 or 3 degrees.
My current settings:
* **Bottom Layers:** 5
* **Bottom Exposure:** 30 s (white resin adheres too well almost for bottom)
* **Bottom Lift:** 5 mm
* **Normal Exposure:** 2.5 or 3 s (monochrome LCD)
* **Normal Lift:** 4 mm
* **Retract Speed:** 70 mm/m (for both bottom and normal)
* **Layer Thickness:** 0.05 mm
Originally sliced with ChituBox, but that stopped working for some reason. Slicing with Lychee now.
# Answer
## Within reason, yes
If you can't put the printer down 100 % even, that's ok. The most crucial thing is, that during the whole operation the resin level in the printer does never get over the edge of the print basin and that at the lowest level, everything is covered still. It's still better to settle the printer as even as possible.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: bed-leveling, adhesion, resin, elegoo-saturn
---
|
thread-19228
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19228
|
Does VHB tape stick better on 3D prints if the surface is completely flat or roughed up?
|
2022-04-11T12:23:33.497
|
# Question
Title: Does VHB tape stick better on 3D prints if the surface is completely flat or roughed up?
I made a hook recently that I put up with VHB tape. It fell off around 2 weeks later (the hook come loose from the tape). It's just a hook for an empty backpack, so let's say it is under medium load.
Every time I design something like this I wonder if it helps to roughen up the surface before applying the tape. I'd imagine that the tape grabs onto grooves made with a knife or sandpaper but I am not sure tbh. I've seen some videos where someone preheats the tape before applying it but without explaining why.
Does anyone know how that works best?
# Answer
> 2 votes
If you ook into the VHB design document, the section *"How to Prepare Specific Surfaces"* describes how to treat the surface:
For higher adhesion, a primer should be used according to the document.
This reference describes that roughing up plastic parts can be beneficial for the adhesion of some tapes:
> **Abrade the Surface:** Roughing up the surface (i.e. sanding) will loosen up any accumulated dirt, rust, or chipped paint. It will aid in the adhesion to painted surfaces or plastic items. A finely- abraded surface with shallow scratches created by a circular motion (rather than straight lines) has the best potential for a strong and persistent bond. This method can create up to a 40 % increase in surface area and can result in greater immediate and long-term bonding potential. Scrub pads, fine steel wool, or sandpaper can achieve the right level of abrasion. A palm sander could be helpful for larger jobs. Avoid using coarse abrasive materials because a too-rough substrate may inhibit the adhesive flow onto the surface. Always clean with the IPA/Water solution, or other solvents, and make sure all loose particles are removed. While it is not typical, some high-bond tapes adhere best to smooth, glassy surfaces, so double check with the manufacturer before you abrade the surface and compromise the bond strength.
Both references describe the use of a cleaning solution based on 50 % water and 50 % IPA.
---
A higher temperature is beneficial for obtaining the bond strength faster, the VHB design document shows that increasing temperature shortens the time when the full bond strength is reached:
---
Tags: pla, post-processing, surface, stability
---
|
thread-19234
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19234
|
Hotend melting mount
|
2022-04-14T17:28:14.107
|
# Question
Title: Hotend melting mount
I have an old custom 3D printer that I bought a new hotend for since the old one broke, and apparently, I made a mistake.
The old hotend had insulation on it that prevented it from melting the mounting point on the printer itself, but the new one is all metal.
When I heated up the new head for the first time it melted the mounting point and fell out.
When is the best solution for my case?
Is there some insulation I can put on the new head? I can't find another insulated head anywhere.
# Answer
Hotends need insulation. Not just to prevent melting the mounting bracket, but:
* To prevent heat loss to the air, especially with part cooling fans active, that could reduce the ability to heat or even trigger thermal runaway protection from complete inability to increase temperature beyond a point.
* To prevent dumping heat on the printed part, which fights with your part cooling fan and greatly diminishes its effectiveness.
At the very least, the heater block needs a silicone sock. You can also use high temperature ceramic fiber or "rock wool" insulation like you'd use for an oven or kiln, and/or just layers of aluminum foil (which reflects a lot of the heat, while air pockets between layers provide insulation).
To find an appropriate sock for your hotend, search for its model name together with "silicone sock". You can also make your own using high-temperature RTV silicone (for example Permatex 81878) and a mold if you have a block with odd dimensions that nobody seems to be selling socks for.
In your question you mentioned "all metal". In the context of hotends, "all metal" generally doesn't mean that there is no non-metal insulation or other material attached or that it's not okay to attach such, just that there is no PTFE or other material that can't handle high temperatures in direct contact with the hot parts. It's perfectly reasonable (and necessary) to put proper insulation on an all-metal hotend.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: hotend, heat-management
---
|
thread-19223
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19223
|
When Z-axis is autohoming the print head moves too far to the right and starts grinding
|
2022-04-11T00:48:06.687
|
# Question
Title: When Z-axis is autohoming the print head moves too far to the right and starts grinding
Installing BLTouch on Ender 3 with SKR Mini E3 v2 motherboard, flash the firmware and do the first autohome, X and Y-axis autohome to the endstops just fine, but then the print head moves to the position it wants to be in to start the Z-axis homing, and it tries to move past the opposite end of the X-axis and starts grinding.
It grinds for a second or two then stops and begins the Z-axis homing with the BLTouch, but I haven't completed the Z-homing to see if that works yet as I quickly shut down the printer when grinding starts so that it won't damage anything.
I tried changing print bed size in firmware and print margins, but that didn't help, I also thought it might be due to the "z-safe-homing" option being enabled in the firmware but when I disabled that I got an error when I tried to compile it saying that it needs to be enabled when using the BLTouch.
I've been trying to sort this for a few weeks now and haven't had any luck so I thought I'd reach out.
# Answer
Recently, ran into the same issue on Ender 3 V2 after flashing Klipper. Default Marlin had no issues but klipper was grinding the Y axis after every print when it goes to Y235... it could only go to Y230
After a lot of digging it turned out that Ender end-switch is 5mm off before the actual physical end.
End up fixing it with the following settings in `printer.cfg`
```
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PB8
dir_pin: PB7
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PA6
position_endstop: 5 #End-stop is not at 0
position_max: 235 #If endstop is 0 235 will grind
position_min: 5 #Prevents moving to 0 and griding in this direction
homing_speed: 20
```
Don't know what the equivalent for Marlin is. Good luck.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis, bltouch, z-probe, x-axis
---
|
thread-19222
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19222
|
Chitubox stopped slicing files correctly
|
2022-04-10T21:03:50.810
|
# Question
Title: Chitubox stopped slicing files correctly
I just bought an Elegoo Saturn S and used ChituBox for slicing. I had sliced a couple of models but for some reason the printer stopped recognizing the .ctb files the other day. I sliced a model and started the print, but it failed. Then when I tweaked the settings and sliced again, the printer said that the file was an unrecognized file type. The file shows up and I can see the name and .ctb, but the image is a folder instead of the actual model. I sliced directly to the USB as well as sliced to the PC and copied the file over to the jump drive.
I looked online and saw that I should to downgrade from ChituBox 1.9.0 down to 1.8.something. Since I was using 1.9.2, I assumed that the former advice was out of date and didn't want to deal with downgrading since there's a whole process with log files and directories or something.
Another commenter said that the firmware may be out of date so I ensured that my firmware is up to date.
Another recommendation was to try a new USB stick since the one with the printer is garbage, but the problem persisted. I formatted both drives a couple of times and nothing worked. I've switched to Lychee which sliced files that the printer actually recognized as files.
While the blaring answer is "Just use Lychee, duh!" I am curious if there is a fix/workaround for ChituBox in case this pops up again.
**Update:** Well, this seems to happen with Lychee now too. I slice a file and the printer still recognizes that the file exists including the .ctb filetype and it shows a folder instead of a preview of the model. When I go to print, the printer says "Unrecognized file extension." This happens with the jump drive that came with the printer. The second jump drive I use doesn't even get recognized by the printer. Everything is blank when I plug it in. From my limited research, allegedly the Saturn doesn't do well with USB 3.0 for some reason.
Resliced files and sliced new files using both Lychee and ChituBox on two brand new, USB 2.0 16 GB jump drives of differing brands. I was informed that perhaps the size of the jump drive may be a problem. Both jump drives are using FAT32, as recommended on an Elegoo forum. Problem persists.
# Answer
> 1 votes
After a week of consternation, I finally figured it out. I had to order a new build plate since the original got cured resin on it and is no longer a flat surface. Elegoo does not sell replacement Saturn S build plates (which are larger) but sells replacement Saturn plates.
To avoid trying to print on an absent portion of the build plate, I added the Saturn profile to my slicer software. Not a lot of models will need that extra 2 mm of build plate edges, but I'd rather have the slicer figure out the orientation of the model on a smaller plate than do it manually myself. I assumed that these profiles were just for entering optimized print settings (exposure times, build volume, etc.) and that the Saturn and Saturn S were close enough that I could cut this corner.
I have been slicing under the Saturn profile, which results in "unrecognized file format" errors. It dawned on me that perhaps I should not use that profile so I sliced with my previously working Saturn S profile. Printer recognized the format, model was previewed, and it is currently printing right now.
So, if you are slicing models and your printer stops recognizing the sliced files, perhaps you are on the wrong profile. I asked this question to see if anyone knows the particulars behind these profiles since it seems they are more than just the printer settings.
---
Tags: chitu, elegoo-saturn, lychee
---
|
thread-19244
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19244
|
Are there printer firmware specifics when adding printer profiles to slicer software?
|
2022-04-16T18:01:41.387
|
# Question
Title: Are there printer firmware specifics when adding printer profiles to slicer software?
In this question, I was struggling with my printer not recognizing sliced files. Switching from ChituBox to Lychee solved the issue until the printer stopped recognizing the .ctb files sliced by Lychee as well. Something clicked and it occurred to me that perhaps I shouldn't have set up the Saturn profile and print on a Saturn S. (I'm currently printing on the smaller Saturn build plate since my Saturn S build plate is currently out of commission.) I switched to the Saturn S profile initially set up. Lo and behold, the printer was recognizing the file again!
I figured the printer profiles in slicer software simply adds optimized print settings (like exposure times, retraction settings, build volume, etc.) to serve as a solid starting point and the user could tweak from there as needed. However, since my sliced files were not being recognized using the Saturn profile, it seems that there's more to these profiles than just print settings. Do any firmware or hardware considerations go into creating the .ctb files? It reminds me of compiling code to specific architectures back in my computer science days.
# Answer
I reached out to Lychee (didn't even think to ask Chitu but the answer is probably something similar). The guy's response was basically:
> The ctb file has some data inside that allows it to be printed only on a specific printer. V4 is even encrypted... To add a pinch of fun for us. Supporting it was not an easy task.
>
> Anycubic for example use the ctb format too but each printer has its own file extension to avoid any confusion.
So the file does have model-specific parameters so one has to match the correct printer profile to the physical printer model, even if the printers are only slightly different as is the case with Elegoo Saturn and Saturn S.
In Lychee and ChituBox, one can set the build volume. So instead of using the Saturn profile for the smaller build plate, add a new printer, select Saturn S model, rename it to something that reminds you that it's the smaller build plate, then change the build volume x and y values to match the build plate. In Lychee, the x and y dimensions can be edited even in the free version (the pro version is required to change the z dimension).
> 3 votes
---
Tags: slicing, resin, chitu, lychee
---
|
thread-10564
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10564
|
Visible/irregular horizontal lines for complex models
|
2019-07-12T18:10:02.160
|
# Question
Title: Visible/irregular horizontal lines for complex models
There is this small issue I've been trying to find a solution for quite some time now, and nothing I've tried seems to work. My machine is an FDM printer, i3 style, but I have customized so much of it there is little but a few screws left of the original.
As it looks like it might be a mechanical problem, I'll try to add as much information as I can think of now.
The machine was originally a P3 Steel Pro, but I replaced a bunch of things:
* Replaced pretty much all the electronics. Got a "premium" RAMPS and Arduino after I killed 1 RAMPS and a couple of Arduinos *somehow*. Been running with the premium ones for about 4 years now without a hitch. I replaced the drivers that came with the printers with Trinamic drivers, to make the motion *silent* and smoother.
* I also replaced the linear bearing rods for the X and Y axis with some custom cut hardened steel linear rods (G6 tolerance) because the ones I previously had were slightly damaged due to a faulty bearing and I thought this might make print quality better.
* Linear bearings I replaced at the same time I replaced the rods, and got some KH0824PP.
* Replaced the Z index's lead screws with TR8x2 and plum couplers, expecting this would improve the quality (and it did). At the same time, I installed a custom piece and bearing on top of the Z-axis to make it more rigid (which I have no clue if it worked or not to be honest).
* Replaced all the GT2 belts with Gates Powergrip belts, also trying to improve the issue here. The idlers got replaced at the same time with Gates idlers.
* Replaced the belt mechanism for the X-axis (the bed carriage) with one that was easier to tension and was more reliable than the original, which I got from toolson edition. Also replaced the bearing at this time, with an SKF608-2Z.
* Replaced the extruder entirely around January, using a DD BMG-X2 with a e3d chimera+ hotend. The carriage it's mounted on I edited myself from the original carriage, so it would be able to mount this beast.
Here is a bunch of pictures (sorry for the dirt, I'm experimenting with some soluble filaments that are being a bit of a mess):
The issue I'm experiencing is that the horizontal lines on some models are very visible/irregular on complex models such as this one:
While on models that are more simple like a simple cylinder these lines seem to be barely visible/far more regular:
I see this regardless of line height, though these pictures are at 0.12 mm. I've also seen plenty of pictures of other people's prints that don't seem to suffer from this (like this random google search result).
Let me go through my line of thought/things I've tried:
* I first thought this was down to bed adhesion, but I'm using a glue stick to make sure the print is unmovable and I have ruled that out as the source.
* I also thought it may be the spools pulling the extruder upwards at some points, but I don't think that'd add up with the cylinder being more regular.
* I tried 3 different "high quality" filament brands, with very low advertised tolerances (0.05-0.03 mm). All suffer from the same issue, and at the same height for the same model.
* Then I thought it might be a problem with the retraction, so I lowered the retraction from 0.5 mm to 0.3 mm and enabled linear advance on Marlin (and tuned it as precisely as I could to a K value of 0.15 for this PLA). That also didn't seem to make the lines go away.
* I also thought this might be down to my stepper motors being able to do 200 "natural" steps, and perhaps the microstepping was making the Z movement fall into "unnatural" positions that are badly rounded and causing this. But according to my math, at 0.12 mm layer height, the issue should go away and it didn't, so I think that rules that out.
The only other theories I currently have are:
* The same as the last one (200 steps not being "natural") but this being an issue on the x/y axis, however, I would expect this to cause vertical lines rather than horizontal.
* The extruder being incapable to keep up the pressure and consistently extrude, but I would have expected linear advance to fix this?
I have no clue how to prove/disprove the last two, or if there are any other reasons I can't think of why this could be happening. I'd appreciate if someone more knowledgeable than me would give me some pointers as to how to debug/fix this.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The upgrade described under:
> At the same time, I installed a custom piece and bearing on top of the Z-axis to make it more rigid
This is not an upgrade. It is best to decouple the movement from the eccentricity of the screw and nut from the X-axis. If you constrain the top, instead of leaving it free, the screw is over constrained, this causes unpredictable movement of the nut and hence defects in your printed object. Decoupling of the screw can be done by Oldham style couplings or specific lifting parts. I've used both to experience increased print quality, the X-Y movement of the nut doesn't get transferred to the hotend carriage.
The couplers can be printed or commercially obtained.
---
Tags: print-quality, fdm, p3steel
---
|
thread-19250
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19250
|
Method to easily connect objects that are slightly spatially separate in .obj file
|
2022-04-17T22:29:13.127
|
# Question
Title: Method to easily connect objects that are slightly spatially separate in .obj file
I am interested in printing a brain that contains 696 parcels (i.e., chunks that break up the total brain).
The .obj file was created such that each of these parcels are spatially separate. Do you have recommendations for printing these parcels such that they are slightly connected, i.e., having the parcels be connected yet still being able to see most of the grooves in between them? I hard coded the .obj file in R/Python. Do you have recommendations for easy redesign of this 3D file to accomplish this goal?
I would like for all parcels to be one solid piece when printed.
Here is an image to get a sense of the object.
Thanks. I am new to 3D printing so any advice would be appreciated.
# Answer
If it doesn't need to come apart again then I'd just boolean union them with some spheres so that they're one object. With the spheres all internal so you keep all the outside detail.
All 3d software I have seen can do this although the specifics vary.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, 3d-models, 3d-design
---
|
thread-19252
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19252
|
How thin should I print a logo so that it is flexible enough to wrap around a curved object?
|
2022-04-18T10:50:11.667
|
# Question
Title: How thin should I print a logo so that it is flexible enough to wrap around a curved object?
I want to print out a flat object without any support structure straight onto the build plate of my ender 5. It's going to be PLA and I need it to be thin enough to still be flexible.
I don't have a picture available, but imagine that I wanted to print out the Coke Cola and then wrap it around a bland soda can, so that the logo is raised up slightly?
Alternatively, what is the best layer height to use, and how many layers should I use?
# Answer
> 2 votes
With PLA you can just heat it to curve around the object. I've done this with up to 2mm. Real easy with 1mm.
I haven't tried thicker but assume it would work ok.
You'd have to glue it though to make it stick. My attempts were just to shape the prints, I didn't want them sticking so I shaped them around a glass bottle.
If you want it flexible in it's own right, then I suggest 2 * 0.2mm layers. I have a large 2 layer print in front of me that bends easily.
This can be rolled up into a tube, but as soon as you let go it will return to flat.
1 layer is even more flexible but tears along the lines with a bit of effort. So if you want it really flexible I suggest you print 1 layer at slightly lower than normal nozzle height to really get the lines melded together. Or a bit hotter than normal.
# Answer
> 0 votes
**1 layer, of whatever thickness your device can print.**
I did something like this to print letters for a flat sign. The letters were 1mm thick and didn't bend, but I'd accidentally printed quite a lot of brim lines which were a single layer thick, and they'd merged into each other.
The brim worked superbly as a "net" to hold the letters in place, so in theory you could print as little as one layer thick.
* Nozzle height will have to be exactly right to merge the lines together. There are no lines crossing-over on the next layer to help bond them all together.
* Let the print bed cool to ambient before removing it from the bed, to help keep the lines connected. Could take an hour or so.
* Use a wide flat scraper to pull job off bed - you might want to design in a "tab" that can be damaged while getting the tool started, and trimmed of later.
---
Tags: layer-height
---
|
thread-19256
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19256
|
Do unused PEI sheets degrade over time?
|
2022-04-19T01:43:10.483
|
# Question
Title: Do unused PEI sheets degrade over time?
Will build surfaces coated in PEI lose their qualities, such as adhesiveness, if left unused but removed from packaging for long periods of time?
# Answer
The PEI will be fine. It's widely used in industrial high impact, high heat and high repetitiveness parts because it doesn't degrade easily. Probably some in your car.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: build-plate, build-surface, pei
---
|
thread-19255
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19255
|
What do linear rail codes mean?
|
2022-04-19T01:02:48.713
|
# Question
Title: What do linear rail codes mean?
In looking at 3D printer motions systems, I've seen linear rails with codes like MGN15H and MGN9C. What do the letters and numbers mean?
# Answer
`MG` stands for minature guideway.
`N` signifies *narrow*, whereas `W` means *wide*.
So, there is `MGN` and `MGW`. You may also see `BMN` which is equivalent to `MGN`
The numbers, i.e the `9` and `15`, refer to the *track width*. The widths are: 5 mm; 7 mm; 9 mm; 12 mm, and; 15 mm.
The final letter, i.e. `C` and `H`, refer to the *length of the block*, where `C` is the shorter version, whereas `H` denotes the longer elongated block which can distribute the load better (as it contains more bearings). These two lengths of the block can be seen compared, in the image below, which shows (from left to right) track widths of 15, 12, 9 and 7 mm, respectively:
Source
*Note that there is an error in the diagram for the 7 mm rails* \- the lengths of the blocks (22.5 and 30.8 mm) have been, obviously, reversed.
A detailed description of the product code is shown below:
>
Source: Hiwin
The other features of the rails may need to be considered, such as their profile (square or round) and the bearings (cantilever or saddle), amongst other things:
> Your choice includes the profile of the rails, commonly square or round. It involves the kind of bearings, either cantilever or saddle slides, plus the stroke, load, speed, duty cycle, mounting area, and of course the mounting orientation, simply because the saddle could potentially move horizontally, vertically, along a wall mount, or even be inverted.
Source: What is a Linear Rail?
> 8 votes
---
Tags: hardware, linear-motion, terminology
---
|
thread-19260
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19260
|
PID fails too hot temperature with new hotend on Tevo Tornado
|
2022-04-19T16:31:35.990
|
# Question
Title: PID fails too hot temperature with new hotend on Tevo Tornado
I am new to 3D printing. I had a big issue with the full hotend: thermocouple broke, the fan broke, plastic everywhere... (I don't really know why as hundreds of prints were good before)
Anyway, I decided to replace the full hotend (2 fans + thermocouple + cartridge). I have the issue of nozzle temp. rising to max value very fast (250 °C defined as max temp. to not exceed in my printer setup). PID autotune failed because of this.
I checked my printer, it is a 24 V supply (Tevo Tornado)! When I measure the resistance of the old cartridge, it is 40 Ohms and the new one is 4 Ohms. I would like to replace it but really don't know how to do with the 8-pin connector...
I don't know if the new hot end is for 12 V or for 24 V power supply but I thought it was not a problem anyway with my 24 V supply... I am completely lost here...
Could you help me with this issue?
# Answer
A heater cartridge with a resistance of 4 Ohms (including the cables) is designed for use with a 12 Volt system. When installed on a 12 Volt system, it will have a power output of around 40 Watts. This will increase to 160 Watts if it is installed on a 24 Volt system.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: hotend, electronics, heat
---
|
thread-19261
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19261
|
Cheap nozzles bought from China
|
2022-04-19T17:35:46.733
|
# Question
Title: Cheap nozzles bought from China
Questions like this are ***usually*** not allowed but since the price of a brass nozzle in Switzerland is 15.90 and the average price of a nozzle from Alibaba or AliExpress is less than 0.10, and nozzles are something you exchange frequently the issue becomes of such magnitude that we ***need*** to have a simple answer to the very straightforward question:
Do nozzles from China offer the same quality and results?
# Answer
I use cheap brass nozzles through the "A" place and they are almost certainly Chinese.
When installing a new nozzle I use a drill bit in a pin vise in the large counter-drilled hole on the top side, pressing pretty hard to assure there are no drill chips in there, either loose or still attached. I follow that with a nozzle cleaning pin of the appropriate size, then a good blast of Dust-Off or the equivalent from the "W" place.
I get reasonable nozzle life and performance.
In my case nozzle replacement is nearly always from blockage, almost never from wear so I've never considered it worthwhile to use premium nozzles with better wear resistance.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Up until this year, I used the cheap nozzles - the original that came with my Ender 3, and both the ones that were supposedly by Creality and appeared identical to it, and similarly cheap ones off Amazon. I never had any problem with them that I attributed to nozzle quality, but I went through them fairly quickly since they were so cheap, just swapping one out if it got a lot of buildup that was hard to clean off rather than bothering to clean it well. I would say they are perfectly usable.
However, if you're already used to paying more for a nozzle, I would **strongly** recommend ditching plain nozzles and going with the Bondtech CHT. The performance and quality improvement from it is **drastic**. It gives more improvement to flow than going from a standard size block to a volcano size block (see Stefan's tests on CNC Kitchen), and a lot less backpressure, so you can get by with lower values for Pressure Advance/Linear Advance, which put less stress on the extruder and get more consistent extrusion. In terms of ratio of printing performance boost to price (not to mention ease of installation), it's probably the single best upgrade you can make to a printer. And while it's not a special durable material, it is coated, which makes it a little bit better than plain brass.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: nozzle
---
|
thread-19265
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19265
|
Ender 3D Pro extruder stepper motor shaft length
|
2022-04-20T02:24:51.737
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3D Pro extruder stepper motor shaft length
My stock extruder motor feed mechanism had started to shave the filament but not feed correctly. I order a REDREX Tech dual gear all-metal extruder to fix the problem. I ordered a hobby gear puller, removed the press-fit brass gear, and now have yet another problem. The shaft on the Ender 3D Pro is not long enough on the stepper motor to ensure the grub screw engages at the proper height with the idler gear. I'm anticipating having to shave a flat spot on the shaft (with a Dremel Tool) to ensure the grub screw does not hinder the 360-degree rotation of either of the two gears but now need to know how to order a motor with a shaft long enough to do this.
The literature that accompanied the REDREX Tech showed a 22 mm shaft height. I checked this with my digital micrometer and found I only have 13.5 mm of the shaft on this Creality-provided OEM stepper motor. So how or where may I order a replacement stepper motor with the shaft longer by about 10-12 mm? Does the stepper motor 42-40 need to be a 42-50 where the second set of digits is the required extra 10 mm length of the shaft?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Steppers are sized by the dedicated standards, for a NEMA 17 stepper (most frequently used in 3D printers) the width and depth are 42 mm. This is the 42 from the designated naming found by Creality steppers (42-40, 42-50, 42-60, etc.).
The second set of digits in the naming relates to the stepper body height (in the image below, this is the `L` dimension), not the overall height! The shaft has its own dimensions, usually these are about 22 mm, but Creality has ordered custom made steppers with shorter shafts with press fitted filament extruder gears (see Problems with stock gear with no screw on Ender 3 pro).
> Does the stepper motor 42-40 need to be a 42-50 where the second set of digits is the required extra 10 mm length of the shaft?
No, the second set of digits doesn't relate to the overall height of the stepper.
Do note that the naming is short for the model number which is usually much longer, e.g. JK42HS40-1004AC-01F, you see the width/depth and length back in the model name. Note that generally speaking, larger length steppers create more torque, the longer the motor the higher the torque (exceptions apply when different gauge wiring in the stepper is used).
The following image gives an overview of the steppers used by Creality models. As can be seen, they do not always use the typical D-shaft steppers, but also steppers with round shafts, this makes it more difficult to attach pulleys with grub screw without creating a flat spot on the shaft. Note that double shafts means that there is a shaft on both sides of the stepper motor, this is convenient for attaching a knob for manual positioning.
---
Tags: maintenance, repair
---
|
thread-11634
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11634
|
What's the difference between "Initial Layer Width" and "Initial Layer Flow" in Cura?
|
2019-12-28T21:09:47.683
|
# Question
Title: What's the difference between "Initial Layer Width" and "Initial Layer Flow" in Cura?
I'm trying to increase adhesion of the first layer (as well as to fill gaps for a more even surface) by squeezing more material against the bed. The obvious way of doing that in Cura is by increasing the "Initial Layer Flow", i.e. to make the printer push out slightly more material than it normally would.
But then there is also a setting called "Initial Layer Width" and according to the the Cura Settings Guide (see image below), increasing line width will make the nozzle
> extrude more material and that material has to flow wider outward. This causes the nozzle to press the material harder on the build plate (...) Not only will the lines be wider ... but they will also be farther apart ... by the same factor, so it would not produce overextrusion
This seems to imply that increasing the initial layer width will automatically *also* increase initial layer flow. If this is so, the question is: which setting is applied first?
In any case, it seems that the two settings should not be applied together, if they manipulate the same variable (but I have not seen this recommendation anywhere). Which leads me to my may question: **what is the difference between the two settings?** More specifically (based on my above reasoning): **what else does "Initial Layer Width" manipulate, apart from the flow rate in the first layer?** Just the distance between the lines so that increasing the setting will lead to fewer lines?
# Answer
Cura option `Initial Layer Width` will cause lines to be further apart or closer together, based on the value you set with respect to the default. The required filament flow to produce these lines is calculated based on the width of the line and the overlap between lines (and layer height).
The Cura option `Initial Layer Flow` adjusts flow for the current line width with a multiplier, this means that the distance between lines stays the same. I.e. with this parameter you can overextrude to push more material to the build plate. Note that for a well calibrated machine this is not necessary. My printers use the paper method to determine the initial `Z=0` for levelling and never use a wider initial line width or overextrusion of the first layer to get perfect filled mirror finish first layers on glass. However, if (paper) tape is used, the bed may be less flat and overextrusion might be beneficial for better adhesion.
The options can be used together, the multiplier will act upon the calculated flow.
> 6 votes
# Answer
The typical consensus is that you increase the layer flow initially for better adhesion, though from my experience I **decrease** it!
My first layer is printed at between 70-75 % layer flow, this gives the best adhesion and best visuals when printing with ASA or ABS.
From layer 2 on I've 105 % layer flow.
The reason is that my first layer is printed "officially" at 0.27mm but in reality, it's more like 0.05 mm thickness. That's manually finetuned while printing after a material change, basically, the thickness is adjusted for perfect grip on the build plate.
When left at 100 % flow rate this will cause ripples or waves on the bottom, it's excess material that builds up along the printed lines.
At 70 % the wrong initial distance is compensated (visually) while maintaining perfect adhesion.
Conclusion: Fine-tune your printer and settings for each material used, a general answer is not possible. Especially true for difficult materials like ABS, ASS, or Nylon.
The best is to watch the printer while it is printing and adapt the mechanical properties first, then fine tuning the flow rates.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, adhesion
---
|
thread-19277
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19277
|
Large format heated bed
|
2022-04-21T07:57:27.643
|
# Question
Title: Large format heated bed
I'm building a larger format printer with a heated bed. The bed size will be 1080 x 1080 mm. It will be mounted on a 40 x 40 mm aluminum T-slot frame. I was thinking of using an Aluminium Precision Tooling Plate something like 5083. I'm not sure what thickness I should go for. I was thinking 10 mm but maybe I should go up to 12 mm to avoid warping at higher temps? I've seen some manufacturers go up to 16 mm but isn't that overkill perhaps? Does it seem like it's a balance between heating times and warping?
# Answer
Warping is caused by a heat differential within the aluminium. Not really dependent on it's thickness. If it's heated uniformly it will expand uniformly. So I assume manufacturers are suiting their aluminium plates to their heating systems.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, build-plate
---
|
thread-18380
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18380
|
How do I make the layers stick together more and warp less?
|
2021-11-15T21:57:30.647
|
# Question
Title: How do I make the layers stick together more and warp less?
I have a Chiron from Anycubic and I have had some leveling issues in the last few weeks, however, I believe that I have sorted that. The layers attached to the base plate or the raft now come out very weird and I am uncertain why. I heard that this is caused by the extruder being too cold but I have turned up the temperature and nothing has changed. Could someone please help with this because I have a feeling this is the reason the prints are being warped slightly but enough to not fit together?
I am very new to all this and I have no one to help me with this, if you could help I would be very grateful.
My bed temperature is set to 70 °C and the speed is 50 mm/s. I manually leveled it afer the self leveling didn't work, the image shows the top layer of a very bad failed print that had the same settings as my other ones but this one specifically was worse. I use PLA and have the extruder set to a temp of 210 °C most of the time. I now have the base set to 80 °C due to when its lower, adhesion doesn't take place for some reason. There are no large overhangs on my models but it can comfortably do a 70ish degree angle with no major flaw. The extruder height is set to 2 mm due to some massive leveling issues I had before.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Not sure what the other answers are talking about. From the picture, your nozzle is just way too far from the bed and the extruded material is just barely making contact. Adjust it so that, when moved to position Z=0.2, there is exactly 0.2 mm between the nozzle tip and the bed. Then fine-tune with single-layer test prints.
Having the nozzle way too far from the bed is probably why you've found a need to jack your bed temperature up so high. Don't do that! 80 °C bed is not usable at all for PLA; it will keep the first 5-10 mm of the print above its glass transition temperature permanently (for the duration of the print), precluding any hope of it holding a proper shape. 60 °C is the absolute max you should ever use for PLA, and even that's too high to avoid warping. If your nozzle distance is right and you're using a textured (e.g. Buildtak or generic clone) build surface, PLA should adhere to a *cold* bed (not heated at all). Without that you probably need 45-55 °C.
# Answer
> 0 votes
What software do you use? Your nozzle diameter seems to be selected incorrectly or you have a slightly enlarged nozzle. Buy an unused nozzle and make your bed adjustments again.
Select correct a nozzle diameter (such as 0.4 mm, 0.6 mm) and slice your print again. For PLA, I suggest using 200-215 °C for better layer adhesion and using the fan to make prints look better.
# Answer
> 0 votes
That is an over extrusion and temp related issue, based on your picture. But to answer your question, make your layer height less and slow down your speed in the first 10 layers.
---
Tags: troubleshooting, hotend, extrusion, anycubic-chiron
---
|
thread-19267
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19267
|
Advantages of buying a 3D printer versus using online services
|
2022-04-20T10:18:24.720
|
# Question
Title: Advantages of buying a 3D printer versus using online services
I'm trying to figure out if it's worth buying a 3D printer or using an online printing service like e.g. this one in the long run. Anyone have any cost analysis?
# Answer
# It depends
If it is worth to invest in a print made for you compared to getting a printer depends on the needs you have. Thee can be informed by the type of material you want to print and the requirements that has on you. Let me give you some examples when it is simply worth it to pay:
* A metal printer costs in the thousands: upper five-digit for the most baseline and averaging in the low to mid-6-digit. Ordering a single or few printed pieces will be economical, and even ordering **many** parts will still be well below break-even, considering that the material sets you back by up to 600 \\$ per kilo!
* A nylon powder printer starts in the middle 4-digits but easily goes up to upper 5-digits and even middle 6 digits. Ordering for a small-scale production this way still will be economical.
* Some specialty plastics need printers with very high-temperature chambers and hotends with extreme wear resistance. Such machinery can easily cost five digits, especially in large dimensions where it goes to six. Compared to purchasing price of the machine, ordering the part will be cheaper.
On the other hand, getting a printer gets cheaper once you:
* use it sufficiently, for example, to iteratively modify a designed part or produce a medium variety of parts.
* have the time and money to spare to learn and tweak your machine to do what you want.
* the amount of parts you want to make would cost you more to have ordered than a new printer, or a substantial portion thereof. For an FDM machine, the first useful machines can be priced as low as 150 \\$, while 300 \\$ gets you a somewhat capable Ender 3 v2 - which has developed into some kind of *standard unit* for printers.
Also note, that some printing services have limits on what they will produce. Commonly they will not provide services to manufacture tools or items that might violate local law or make it trivially to do so, for example copying keys or even manufacturing Keyblanks.
> 2 votes
# Answer
One of the biggest reasons to buy a 3D printer vs using a printing service is one of the biggest advantages 3D printing has over other manufacturing methods: **rapid prototyping**. If you operate a 3D printer you own to make parts you're designing yourself, you can really iterate a design in realtime, immediately measuring results (tolerances/fit, strength, working of mechanisms, etc.) and be printing the next version to test it a few minutes after the first one finishes. If part of the result you need is something you can visually evaluate during the print, you can even be working on the next iteration while the previous one prints. Most of the parts I do are small enough, and my printer fast enough, that during design iteration both myself and the printer stay busy pretty much 100% of the time.
If you're sending designs off to a printing service, you lose out on this aspect of 3D printing. If you don't get things exactly right the first time, you either have to do all the fixup with non-automated tools, or you're out a lot of money and have to wait for another order cycle all over.
This might of course make sense and be okay if you're really good at checking your work before sending it off, or if you're mostly ordering prints of things someone else already designed and tested previously.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Just one experience from a few years ago. I needed a single, very small part to repair a game accessory. The repair clip stl file was available on Thingiverse. I went to a local commercial 3D printing service for a quote. The quoted price? $75!
I ordered my 3D printer a week later.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I would think it depends on your future needs. If you will rarely need things printed then online is more convenient than buying a printer and doing the whole learning curve, storing materials etc,.
From what I have seen online, most people printing are not printing things they actually need.
If you want to produce things to sell, then you're better off doing it yourself.
> 0 votes
# Answer
It is probably cheaper for a business to order 3D prints than to pay an employee to get up to speed, unless that business is doing new designs regularly. This is especially true if the parts need to look professional, or need to use challenging materials (like anything other than PLA, PETG, maybe TPU).
If the business does buy a 3D printer, it can be economical to get a more prosumer model, than to pay an employee to futz with a consumer printer to coax good print quality out of it, or spend additional time modifying it- a 300 dollar printer can turn into a 1500 dollar printer with enough things going wrong or needing to be upgraded.
When evaluating the true price of an in house 3D printed part to a business, it’s important to include employee time interacting with the machine and post processing: file prep, slicing software work, prepping bed, loading filament, preheating bed, watching the first layer go down. Oh wait, it got messed up? Start again. Once printing, time spent checking in on it, then time spent unloading filament, hand post processing (trimming a brim, removing goobers, zits, strings, drilling out precision holes). It is a hands on process, especially with consumer machines. Producing parts on the clock, I figure between 40 minutes (everything runs perfect) to two hours (Murphy’s law) of human interaction for a one-off part. Batches of more than one can be less, I had little clam shell enclosures done in batches of 6 come out to about 45 minutes of labor apiece to the company, ultimately (once 3D printer was dialed in).
Another factor of overhead is a 3D printer needs a space for it to live. -Near ventilation if using noxious materials -with enough table space to have a computer near it, and some hand tools, and a clear area to post process the parts -away from employees bothered by the sound -where it can be checked on easily -where it doesn’t get cold in the winter, to the point where low ambient temperatures cause warping
Note, some of these space requirements can be sidestepped by printers with prosumer features: WiFi transfer of gcode to the machine (computer doesn’t need to be near printer), full insulated enclosures (cold ambient temperature resistance and less noise) with air filtration (may not need ventilation for fumes).
Business ownership of a 3D printer can be a waste if there isn’t someone on staff that is mechanically inclined and can use a CAD package. Without CAD skill prints are limited to what independent contractors design for the company (and who may themselves own their own 3D printer), or things that can be downloaded from the internet.
As an asset, it can be difficult to sell a 3D printer for anywhere near what it is worth, especially with aftermarket modifications. They are large and heavy and delicate so local sales are preferred over shipping, which severely restricts the market, especially outside urban areas.
Not a business? Time on your hands? Go for it.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: cost, services
---
|
thread-19288
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19288
|
Printing in Material That Is Safe to Drink From/Dishwasher/Microwave Safe
|
2022-04-24T00:05:12.327
|
# Question
Title: Printing in Material That Is Safe to Drink From/Dishwasher/Microwave Safe
I'm looking to get printed a design for a coffee mug, which needs to be dishwasher safe, microwavable safe, and safe to drink out of. What kind of filament or equipment would give these properties? If not, is there a company that offers such services?
# Answer
> 2 votes
You need to find a company like this.
Or you could 3D print clay yourself, there are clay 3D printers online.
---
Tags: filament-choice, food
---
|
thread-645
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/645
|
Cura not allowing full print area to used
|
2016-02-25T02:42:02.643
|
# Question
Title: Cura not allowing full print area to used
Cura does not seem let the full print area to be used. My printer is a Lulzbot Mini. The design illustrated below can be found here.
# Answer
Cura is likely factoring in your skirt. Change the skirt lines to 0 and you might be able to print (`Expert` -\> `Switch to full settings`, then click the options button next to "platform adhesion type."). Cura also seems to have an in-built build size offset of about 2 mm. I can't seem to get rid of it in any way other than to change the build size.
> 13 votes
# Answer
If you set skirt setting to 'none', it will get you up to full bed area -1 mm at the edges, so, for example, 198x198 instead of 200x200.
You need to go to 'Travel' and set 'Travel avoid distance' to zero to get the full 200x200, or whatever, bed area.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
---
|
thread-19291
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19291
|
Pros/Cons of 3D printed part cooling mods
|
2022-04-26T02:31:48.223
|
# Question
Title: Pros/Cons of 3D printed part cooling mods
In my previous research for mods for my Ender 3v2, I came across the topic of part cooling mods. The two most common are the Petsfang and Hero Me sets.
1. What are the pros and cons of third-party/DIY part cooling mods?
2. What benefit does having a third-party/DIY part cooling mod provide?
# Answer
Cooling duct design is not well understood by either the 3D printer OEMs (exceptions may apply) nor by the aftermarket cooling options or most of the homebrew designs.
The problem is the lack of the understanding in aerodynamic design. Note that the fans that we use to produce the cooling flows are pushing flow, they do not create a large pressure difference. So with not too much pressure difference you should avoid long ducts and sharp bends in the flow path, narrowing of duct annuli or (you should) narrowing the duct annuli when air is bled out.
Looking at many of the options available, it is clear that many of these design rules are not taken into account.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Part cooling is essential to print at any decent *vertical speed* (layers per second), which is critical if you do rapid prototyping of small parts or vase mode prints. This is because you can't (repeatedly) print on top of material that hasn't yet cooled enough to be rigid; if you do, after a few layers, you'll find nothing is in the right place and it's all a bunch of goo getting dragged around by the nozzle. In fact, if the part is small enough you might not be able to print it at all. That's because, while slicers have features to slow down to guarantee a minimum layer time for cooling purposes, if the hot nozzle sticks around in the vicinity of a tiny part the whole time, just the heat from the nozzle will keep it from properly solidifying.
The Ender 3 (and as far as I know, the v2 as well, along with just about every other Creality printer) has *pitiful* stock cooling. It's off-center from the nozzle, and aimed more at the nozzle itself rather than the part below it, so that it saps heat out of the hotend (making the heater work harder and reducing your max achievable flow) at the same time it's (barely) cooling the print. So upgrading it is desirable. But, as you've guessed, there are cons too.
1. Some, especially those utilizing the stock 4010 fan, *reduce airflow* by constricting the airway too much. The 4010 does not really have the power to compress the air much, so if the airway cross-sectional area decreases along the way, that will reduce flow. Does the increase in focus/delivery to the right place make up for the lost flow? Maybe.
2. Some *focus the air too narrowly* while increasing its pressure, delivering high-pressure air to a still molten point on the print. This can actually cause the extruded material to bend in the direction the air is pressing it before it cools enough to solidify, giving an inaccurate print.
3. Large fans and ducts add mass to the toolhead, which can increase ringing, especially if they're not sufficiently rigid.
4. Many of the cooling mods mount awkwardly to the toolhead in ways that interfere with the motion of the carriage, reducing total build volume.
5. If the cooling mod blows on/over the heater block, it can reduce melting performance and pour heat onto the part you're trying to cool. Most try to avoid doing this, but you may find you want additional insulation around the block if you use more powerful part cooling.
Some people will also tell you that "too much cooling" will harm your print quality, hurting layer adhesion, making the print warp, etc. I use a rather extreme cooling system and have not encountered such problems that can't be remedied with a slight increase to the nozzle temperature, yielding better overall quality and equal strength to what I would have gotten with lower fan. But I print just PLA, PETG, and TPU, so it's likely that this could be an issue with other materials like ABS or nylon. If so you can always reduce the fan speed.
> 2 votes
# Answer
The best 3D printed cooling solution actually is not used generally - and it can be rather loud. I am talking pretty much the very same setup one uses in a CNC-mill to spray or mist cooling liquid on the item. That's either flood cooling (with a full jet) or mist cooling (with a mist). Just, in this case, using air hoses and a compressor or air pump, it's best called "airblast".
In such a setup, all the ducts are extruded tubings, the nozzles are metal and the only 3D printed part is a holder for these parts. But how is this loud? It's often loud because this setup needs a compressor to run and push air through the air hoses. And compressors can be rather loud.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-fan
---
|
thread-5312
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5312
|
Nozzle reducing flow as it comes close to finish layer
|
2018-01-20T13:16:53.573
|
# Question
Title: Nozzle reducing flow as it comes close to finish layer
I've have observed that when the printer is finishing a layer, the flow of plastic through the nozzle starts fading out as it comes closer to the point of layer change.
As an example, let's say that I'm printing the first layer of a cube. The nozzle first prints the perimeters ok. Then it begins to print the inner part, beginning from one corner and finishing on the opposite one. As the nozzle comes closer to the finishing corner, the flow of plastic diminishes, resulting in the lines of the filament to touching each other.
Maybe it's not a big deal, but it's annoying because it's stopping the part of having a very nice first layer and finish.
My setup is:
* Anet A6 running Marlin 1.1.8
* Bed auto leveling before each print
* Slic3r Prusa Edition, latest release (as of 20 January 2018)
* PETG from Das Filament
I tried disabling all "retract" settings but the issue persists.
I'm beginning to think that this could be a software bug (Slic3r), but before I submit it to GitHub, I'd like to be sure.
Any opinion is welcome!
# Answer
> 0 votes
The behaviour you are describing (stopping to extrude before the nozzle finish moving) is called **coasting** and is actually a desirable one if tuned correctly (which is clearly not your case).
**Here's a primer on why coasting is good**: the hysteresis (think of it as "springiness") of the filament between the point where the stepper motor pinches it and pushes it towards the nozzle, and the point in which the filament liquefy, makes so that there is always a residual pressure whenever the stepper motor stop spinning. So coasting consists of **stopping to actively extrude *before* the nozzle has reached the endpoint of the line** being "drawn", and relying on the residual pressure to finish the job.
Many slicer have a dedicated setting for this, but - to the best of my knowledge - slic3r PE has not. In your question, you seem to think this may be linked to filament retraction. It is definitively worth trying (why not!) but **filament retraction normally refers to the act of relieving that residual pressure *after* the line being printed is finished and before moving away the nozzle**, so... if that setting turns out to be the key to your problem, then it would be quite a misnomer.
A quick way to verify if this is the case could be **toggling the ceckbox "use firmware retraction"** in the printer/general pane of slic3r settings. If the problem is with the retraction settings you chose, this would ignore them completely. A clean print would confirm your theory.
Failing that, the best way to debug would probably be **to slice the same model with a different slicer** (cura is a common one) and see if the problem persists:
* if it does, then the problem is probably in the firmware or the extruder of the printer itself
* if it does not, then you would have a set of "good settings" in the second slicer that you could try to replicate in Slic3r PE. Or - as you believe it may be the case - you could have found a way to trigger a weird bug in Slic3r.
Good luck and let us know about your findings! :)
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you think it is a slicing problem, look at the G-code. You might want to arrange for the infill to be orthogonal to the axes, but it ought to be easy enough to calculate the ratio between printhead motion and the extruder. G-code is just text, and fairly easy to make sense of. The RepRap wiki has a good reference to the commands, and all you care about are X-Y movement, and E movement.
An alternative explanation might be that your extruder is struggling with the extrusion rate, and after continuous extrusion is failing to heat the filament fast enough to melt. The layer change could be providing a sufficient respite that walls start off OK on the next layer. Also check (in the G-code) that the speed of walls and infill is the same.
# Answer
> 1 votes
As mac's answer says, this is **coasting**, but contrary to that answer, **coasting is not good**. At one time (that answer was written way back in 2018 when the state of software was much worse than it is now), it was an idea a number of people accepted as reasonable, but it was operating at the wrong layer, and was a very bad hack, necessarily extruding less material than needed to accurately construct the part being printed. Leading to exactly what OP saw.
Nowadays, printer firmware has a feature called Linear Advance (Marlin) or Pressure Advance (Klipper) that can be calibrated with test prints and compensates for the increased backpressure when extruding fast - or more importantly, seen from the other direction, the reduced backpressure when slowing down at the end of an extrusion path, that results in continued oozing after the extrusion was supposed to end. This feature eliminates the need for hacks that underextrude and produces very accurate extrusion regardless of changes in speed or flow.
Anyone experiencing problems like OP hit should check that their profile does not have coasting (and hacks meant to compensate in the other direction for problems it causes, like "extra prime") enabled in the slicer.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The Prusa Slic3r edition has specific help references in the manual that may be of value to you. One of the entries that catches my eye is the line marked "Retract on layer change" which appears to be just as you are describing. You've noted that you've disabled all retract settings, perhaps overlooking the check box?
The above linked document also refers to a print setting that prevents retract of filament when not crossing perimeters. This again appears relevant to your difficulties.
Your post says "resulting in the lines of the filament to touching each other." I expect you mean "not touching each other" but I do not wish to correct/edit your post if I am incorrect in this understanding.
---
Tags: print-quality, marlin, slic3r, pet
---
|
thread-19308
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19308
|
Are there any nozzles shorter than volcano but longer than MK8?
|
2022-04-28T17:38:36.063
|
# Question
Title: Are there any nozzles shorter than volcano but longer than MK8?
I have a semi-diy hotend setup on my MOOZ-2 (an obscure chinese printer). It requires that the total nozzle length (including threading) is longer than 15 mm. So far, I've been using Volcano nozzles because they're the only ones I can find that meet this requirement. However I believe this negatively impacts performance because they stick out way beyond the heater block (see picture below). Unfortunately, the next size I can find are MK8 or V6 nozzles which are 13 mm - too short! Are there any nozzle sizes in between that I could use?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Yes there are, the vendor of the printer sells 17 mm length spare nozzles for reasonable prices.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Could you get an extender made? That would give a larger metal body to hold and conduct heat to the nozzzle tip better, and would allow you to use standard nozzles. What I'm thinking is a cylinder of around 9-12 mm diameter, with one end machined then tapped to be M6 external thread, and the other tapped as M6 internal thread, with a 2 mm hole through the center. If you know someone who has or has access to a lathe and taps, they should be able to do it for you.
---
Tags: extruder, diy-3d-printer, hotend, nozzle
---
|
thread-19029
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19029
|
Is there a method for telling how much filament is left on a spool?
|
2022-02-28T18:39:29.340
|
# Question
Title: Is there a method for telling how much filament is left on a spool?
Other than unrolling it and measuring it, is there a method for telling how much filament is left on a spool, for example calculating a length bases on weight or number of turns left on the spook?
Is it possible to extract the amount of filament used from the printer's firmware?
# Answer
If you have an empty spool of the same brand, you could weigh the empty spool and the one you're trying to "measure" to get an approximate weight of the remaining filament. Divide by the (presumably available from manufacturer) weight per meter to get a rough length in meters, if that's more useful to you than weight.
> 12 votes
# Answer
If you use klipper you can use this script (by zellneralex) to calculate the filament length used since the last manual reset. Obviously it works with a single spool, if you switch spools it doesn't work.
If you want to know how much filament is left in the spool, the exact formula based on inner radius of the spool $r\_{int}$ and outer radius of the spool when new $r\_{ext}$ and based on the current outer radius of the remaining filament $x$ should be:
$$ 100 \left( \frac{x-r\_{int}}{r\_{ext}-r\_{int}} \right)^2 $$
You can see that you get 100% when $x=r\_{ext}$ (spool is new) and 0% when $x=r\_{int}$.
It's a simple integration in $(x-x\_0)\\,dx$.
> 3 votes
# Answer
If you are down to one layer of filament, count the number of loops left on the spool, and multiply by the circumference of the spool to get the length. ($ \pi \times diameter \times loops $)
This can work if you have more than one layer and know the core diameter and the outer diameter of the filament left, but there would be some integration and a lot of estimation.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Some filament vendors put a window to see the remaining spooled filament with a decal showing graduations to match how much is left based on the diameter visible. You could do the same as a printed (in the paper sense) insert you slip along the *inside* of any spool between the filament and outer wall. You just need to compute the relationship between diameter and amount of filament based on the filament diameter and the number of turns per layer. Or you could just copy the design from a vendor who does this and figure it will be close enough.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I made an Excel spreadsheet that calculates this based on the spool dimensions. You can download it here.
There are products available that will keep track of the length of spools once you give it a starting length. The starting length could come from the spreadsheet.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Besides using the window on a spool that estimates the amount of filament left, I've used large calipers to measure the diameter of an empty spool and the diameter of the filament left on the spool.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Why not use a database online with a filament consumption counter? See this link.
You can create a database without buying counters. I have two printers an Ender and Mega Zero and 2 counters that automatically consume the selected filaments.
Very cool tool. I love it
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-material
---
|
thread-19306
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19306
|
The weirdest DIY 3D metal printing
|
2022-04-28T12:45:04.880
|
# Question
Title: The weirdest DIY 3D metal printing
I have a very eccentric, weird, unusual and strange idea. I need some advice and serious professional help.
I'm interested in 3D printing in PLA a hollow complex structure with 0.2 thickness walls (Yes! That thin!). Fill it with very fine copper powder with a little borax powder thoroughly mixed. Use superglue to join halves or other shell pieces together, making sure the powder is very well compacted. Then in a separate container I want to make some thin plaster of Paris (calcium sulfate with a lot of water). Mix in it, some of my trimmed hair (about 5mm in length). No joke. Seriously. Please, I'm begging you with all my heart, hear me out! There's a very good useful reason for doing it. I then place the object (3D printed flimsy crappy shell filled with copper powder) in a DIY drywall box and pour in the plaster over the 3D printed shell object until the box is filled and object completely covered. Leave it to dry and completely solidify for a day. Then I bake the entire thing in a furnace making sure I'm over the copper melting temperature and voila! 3D printing in copper very complex intricate models with ease. Can it be that easy? Or am I deluding myself? The hair purpose, after it will burn inside the plaster while in the furnace, is to create very thin tubules or air holes for water and gases to escape and to prevent cracking of the plaster under intense heat. I don't want to use hay because the straws are too thick. I have to use very thin organic straws. I just can't think of anything more accessible than my hair. Do you know of something even thinner and more accessible than human hair? Please let me know. I know it sounds and looks very odd, weird and strange. I'm opened to alternatives or other suggestions, otherwise I wouldn't be here making a fool of myself with such an insane ridiculous idea.
I was thinking to add some form of additional volume above the object, which is connected to the model by some thin hollow tube. All this volume (like an empty cube (shell) ) will also be filled with very fine copper powder providing additional melted copper to the model, in the case if the powder was not very well compacted inside the shell model.
Could this absurd ridiculous insane crazy idea work? I have never heard of anything like this. This is so bizarre and strange. It seems to be some form of odd mix of multiple techniques. But besides all this, will it work in the end? Will the plaster hold while some of it(depends on the model) will be inside molten copper? Or do I have to mix in the plaster, not just hair, but also some individual singular fine strands of steel wool?
I don't know who and where to ask such a thing. Am I in the right place? I don't know what this idea is, I don't know how to name it, I don't know how to ask or formulate this idea, I don't know how to google it or search it. I don't know anything. I really need some guidance, help and advice.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I don't see why it wouldn't work. It doesn't seem to be the optimal way but I haven't tried it.
Only thing that might be an issue is that PLA doesn't burn away clean (not for me anyway) which can leave defects in the product. But there are filaments specifically made for casting which apparently burn away with no residue.
This is assuming you can actually successfully print a complex object with walls that thin.
# Answer
> 7 votes
**I think this is just an overcomplicated lost-PLA (investment) casting.**
What you're asking for is to create an object, create a mold around it, and then burn out the object and replace it with metal. Traditionally this is done with wax, and called lost-wax casting, but the same can be done with anything that melts/burns away, including PLA.
Rather than worrying about burning hairs and pressure and compaction of metal powder, print a model, and use the correct kind of plaster (a search for "investment casting plaster" will get you going down the right path) to make your mold. Heat the metal powder in a crucible, instead of the mold itself, and pour it through the expansion/extra material tube you were talking about.
---
Tags: pla, metal-printing
---
|
thread-19313
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19313
|
Is there any way to salvage PLA filament with inconsistent diameter?
|
2022-04-30T08:02:29.603
|
# Question
Title: Is there any way to salvage PLA filament with inconsistent diameter?
I have a spool of PLA filament where the diameter is visibly inconsistent. So it will only print a meter or two and then start slipping instead of being fed into the nozzle. Is this still useful for anything or can it be salvaged somehow?
I can't return it, the shipping costs more than the spool.
# Answer
> 3 votes
In principle you can re-extrude it with a somewhat simpler machine/setup than making filament from scratch, but controlling the diameter is the hard part of making filament - as you can see from how the manufacturer of yours botched it.
I would first try insisting on a refund without returning the item unless they pay return shipping, and that they cover the original shipping cost. The product they delivered is not usable for the purpose it was advertised for.
As for salvaging it - if that's what you really want to do, or if you end up stuck with it - as long as it's not too wide to fit through the filament path to the nozzle, an extruder that's spring loaded can *probably* manage to push it reliably. You will of course have pulsating under- and over-extrusion which will make it largely unusable for serious parts that need to be dimensionally accurate, strong, or visually appealing, but there are lots of things without these requirements it might be useful for. If your printer isn't capable of handling it, you could perhaps sell or trade it to someone whose printer can handle it.
Getting more on the wild end of things, there are filament diameter sensors that can be integrated with your printer and firmware (I'm pretty sure Klipper supports this; not sure about Marlin and others) to measure the diameter and compensate extruder motor steps to keep the extruded volume per requested E-axis length constant. This would in theory make it possible to use the bad filament for serious prints.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Personally I store all my filament waste in tubs for the day a recycling/reuse solution offers itself. You can "compact" waste prints using hot air which also sticks the whispy pieces together. Someone will eventually come out with a "re-extruder" that simply cooks old filament and then produces a consistent 1.75mm or 3mm output. Cost is the limiting factor here, both in up-front equipment and ongoing electricity cost.
Plain unused filament is specified as a pin for a hinge in some designs. However that doesn't use very much.
It can also be used as string, but tends to break at the knot if tied tightly.
Filament could be platted into a rope, but that's going to be more decorative than useful.
Last thought, I've not tried it but filament has a low melting temperature compared to metals. You may be able to "cast" a 3D shape in a metal mold an a hot oven or with a gas torch or perhaps even in a fire. Fumes could be an issue, and you'd have to somehow stop the plastic from igniting.
I doubt it would be possible to cast a thin round cylinder; the top would be flat at best.
---
I happened to come across a "spring mandrel" at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:92266
One could soften the poor filament and then wind it around a structure like that, and when cooled you have a low-pressure coil spring of a length and diameter you chose. Probably not that strong or robust, but worth a try if you need springs for other prints.
---
Tags: filament
---
|
thread-19321
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19321
|
Creality slicer filling in holes that aren't supposed to
|
2022-05-03T01:00:34.683
|
# Question
Title: Creality slicer filling in holes that aren't supposed to
I'm pretty new to 3D printing and I made my own file in Blender. I exported it to Creality slicer, printed it, and it was filling the holes that aren't supposed to be filled.
It's supposed to look like this:
but ends up looking like this:
I looked around and saw that it might be broken or something so if anyone knows how to fix that Heres my stl file:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1auVJb8xFT\_33rf3gDXCzf5Hz6K9TvfSv/view?usp=sharing
# Answer
I don't use that slicer, but there are issues with the STL file, when I fixed them and sliced it looked ok.
So I suggest to fix your STL first. Lots of programs including blender have tools to help with that. Or you could use a free online stl repair.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-19324
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19324
|
Is it possible to make flat parts less flexible by adding geometry to one side?
|
2022-05-03T12:29:03.170
|
# Question
Title: Is it possible to make flat parts less flexible by adding geometry to one side?
I have a resin printer, and when I print medium to large flat surfaces they tend to warp a little after a few days. I was wondering if it's possible to reduce this by adding lines/circles or other geometry to one side (e.g. when only one side will be visible).
I vaguely remember seeing somewhere that they (used to?) mill a specific pattern into the metal back of MS Surface Pro devices to reduce flexibility. Although I'm unable to find anything about that now.
Does anyone know more about this?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Yes. You'll find this all over the place in injection molded parts even even formed metal like disposable buffet serving containers (although there it's visible on both sides), and the same idea works for resin (or FDM) printing. I'm not actually well-informed on the detailed theory of how you make good geometry to do this, but in practice pretty much anything works.
---
Tags: resin
---
|
thread-19326
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19326
|
Best filament to print the housing for a laptop?
|
2022-05-03T15:49:01.490
|
# Question
Title: Best filament to print the housing for a laptop?
I have an old notebook computer that works just fine, but the outside of the lid is badly damaged and needs to be replaced. The screen and wiring are fine, so I only need to replace the housing that is exposed to the outside world.
**What is the best filament for an impact-resistant printed housing?** Should I consider other options that may prevent damage to the internal components? Are there any alternatives with cosmetic benefits?
Edit: Since I was asked, presume I may be willing to buy a new part to upgrade or accommodate a new filament type.
# Answer
> 3 votes
For casings I use a combination of TPU and PETG or PLA. PETG shell gives it rigidity and TPU gives it a bit of impact protection. So corners and inside layers of TPU within a hard PETG or PLA shell (shell has no corners).
I haven't had a problem with either but obviously PLA won't withstand heat very well, so it depends on environment.
For a laptop case you'd maybe want to do it the other way around with the outside shell of TPU and inside layers of PETG for rigidity.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you just cared about impact resistance of the housing itself, the clear choice would be TPU, which would be basically indestructible. However, the housing is there to protect what's inside - not only from impact, but from stresses (e.g. bending) that could break it. This means you need a material that both provides rigidity and avoids breaking easily itself.
If you were doing an old (90s or earlier) style laptop case that's a tank, I'd actually say yeah, go with TPU 95A or higher (98A or so if you could get it) and add some reinforcement ribs/stiffeners. This stuff can be quite rigid at 100% infill, and it will hold up fine to heat, abrasion, even most chemicals. But if this is a modern slim style case, a small amount of material needs to provide a lot of rigidity and that's not going to work.
PLA actually fares really well here in some ways - it's one of the most rigid printable materials, and very easy to get good bonding. If you check for example CNC Kitchen's strength tests, you'll find plain PLA usually coming out on top of most comparisons. However, PLA doesn't handle heat well, which might rule it out.
ASA, ABS, or PC is probably your best bet, but I don't have any experience with them so I'll leave the part about them as something for another answerer to write.
---
Tags: filament-choice
---
|
thread-19333
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19333
|
Bed leveling suggestions given this mesh generated by BLTouch
|
2022-05-04T03:00:20.000
|
# Question
Title: Bed leveling suggestions given this mesh generated by BLTouch
The printer is a Creality CR-10 S5.
Marlin 2.0.7.2
Here is the highest point.
Deepest valley
Further the leveling screws on the right X0,0 and X=0, Y=467 are barely at the very bottom of the screw. The ones on the left side are cranked super tight nearly at the maximum tightness. The BLTouch is doing a 10x10 grid so the resolution is pretty high.
Any suggestions as to how to get it flatter? Does anyone else have this issue and resolve it?
I can print with a raft. Any way to confirm if my bed is actually this bad or sensor glitch. I obviously can't see at sub-millimeter levels with my eyes.
Could this be an issue with the Z-axis?
So here are the wheel pictures:
So, I changed the wheels, and re-leveled. I got this:
Except for about 1 cm of the corner opposite the red side it is level enough to print on.
# Answer
> 2 votes
# Understanding the pattern
Indeed, it looks like the error is induced by the X-Axis, as the pattern is very uniform over the Y-axis. The most likely reason for such an error is either damage to the rail, or damage to the motion system using the rail.
Damage to the rail would either be a deformed or a deep spot in it.
However, in your case, it is quite easily the wheels being worn down on the leading and lower roller while the trailing one does show to be not pressed against the rail properly. As a result, the print head can possibly might either tilt a little or the contact surfaces of the wheel might no longer run perfectly concentric with the wheel's hub itself and the printhead. In both cases, the head does a little wave dance around the ideal Z-position.
I would try to tighten the rollers, and in either case swap them out for spares.
## After re-fitting
The new mesh leveling tells me that the back right corner needs to go down quite some (about a millimeter) and the whole left can go up a little. The front right looks about right, maybe a little on the low end, but not too much. A BL-touch printer still needs leveling in itself.
---
Tags: bed-leveling, bltouch, creality-cr-10
---
|
thread-19340
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19340
|
Can I Print With a Fan Missing 3 Blades?
|
2022-05-04T22:30:40.983
|
# Question
Title: Can I Print With a Fan Missing 3 Blades?
I recently broke the cooling fan on my Voxelab Aquila while doing some maintenance, and I'm in the middle of a multi piece print that I would like to finish soon. I found the fan replacement I need, but it's not going to arrive for over a week. I was wondering if it would be ok to print a few things with the broken fan, or if that would be bad for the motor or anything else.
# Answer
> 3 votes
As long as your ambient temperature is not excessive and you're not using a very high bed temperature, you should be fine.
With insufficient cooling, there is a risk of heat creep - that is, of the heat from the melt zone working its way up to the area where the filament is supposed to be solid, potentially causing jams if it deforms and catches in crevices there. However, the hotend is made to operate in temperatures far above normal room temperature, e.g. in non-air-conditioned spaces, in enclosed chambers for printing ABS, etc.
Just keep the space you're printing in cool and go on printing while you wait for a new fan to arrive. Maybe reduce your bed temperature a bit if you usually use temperatures on the high end (over 50°C).
# Answer
> 2 votes
If the fan is the part cooling fan, you'll have reduced cooling on the part as it is printed. This isn't necessarily going to be a problem, although you may have irregularities in the print surface.
If the fan is the heat sink cooling fan, reduced cooling will be problematic. This could result in heat creep and clogging of the hot end.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I think you'll get weird print artifacts and strange surface errors.
The fan is not balanced and will buzz. This added vibration could be seen as an effect in the finish.
Personally I'd suggest patience and wait for the replacement to arrive before continuing. Or scavenge a suitable fan from something else in the meantime.
---
Tags: print-fan
---
|
thread-10288
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10288
|
How to work with PETG? Settings, caveats, etc
|
2019-06-17T13:50:30.493
|
# Question
Title: How to work with PETG? Settings, caveats, etc
We've been doing some printing with PETG filament on Ender 3 Pro printer and the result were awful:
Here are settings we used:
* Extruder: 240 °C
* Bed: ~70 °C (± 10 °C)
* Speed: 80 mm/sec
There are a few types of problems that we had:
1. **Initially filament did not stick to the bed** \- those 3 items in the middle of the picture are example of this issue. This got fixed by increasing temperature of bed to 80 °C.
2. **At some point a piece would get dis-attached from the bed and would move around together with the extruder around** \- two prints in the upper right corner of the picture were cancelled for this reason.
3. **Models are very rough, like a cheaply made snowball** \- that tiny model in the upper left is suppose to be a cattle-bell. Could you tell?
## Additional info
Filament that we used indicated
* extruder temperature 230-240 °C
* printing speed 40-90 mm/sec
* no info about bed temperature
## Question(s):
* What are some optimal, tried and tested options for printing PETG? <sub>(Temperatures, speed, etc)</sub>
* What are some caveats/difficulties of working with PETG to look out for? <sub>(For example, I've read that PETG likes slower speeds. Is that true?)</sub>
* Is it possible that the model of 3D printer does not work well with this type of filament? <sub>(I don't have much experience printing so I can't know)</sub>
# Answer
> 3 votes
The real problem was that I damaged the nozzle (most likely while cleaning it) in a way that increased the size of the hole. So, too little filament was coming out of too big of a hole, which caused such poor models. Replacing the nozzle fixed the problem.
I do not remember the settings of the top of my head. Generally advised settings for PETG (whatever they were) worked fine.
# Answer
> 12 votes
Slow down!
80 mm/s is much too fast for PETG. Try 45 or 50 mm/s instead, even for infill, supports, and other less-visible areas.
# Answer
> 5 votes
The Ender 3 can print PETG alright - in some regards, such as warping and adhesion issues, even better than PLA. But you do need the right settings. 230-240 °C is too low, especially at the extremely high speed you're trying - you're going to get serious under extrusion and likely stringing.
My PETG settings are 80 °C bed, 250 °C hotend, and normal 30/60 mm/s speeds 40 mm/s print speed for everything, and lowering fan speed to 40 % or lower (ideally off entirely unless you find you need it). Full speed fan **will prevent bonding**, and is not needed to avoid warping like it is with PLA.
Also make sure you have the first layer set to print slowly (30 mm/s or less), and make sure your gap between the nozzle and bed isn't too wide. You also need the nozzle to be primed well before the actual print starts. A skirt can do this but I prefer custom start gcode to print a thick priming line at the edge of the bed. Mine is based on Ultimaker Cura's default but only goes one direction rather than reversing and moves a lot slower.
# Answer
> 3 votes
None of your prints look like they are sticking well to the bed. You didn't specify the bed material. For many bed types, you might have success with Aqua Net hair spray.
Like any material, if it isn't solidly sticking to the bed, the print won't be good.
This probably is not related to your problem, but you may need to reduce the drive gear pressure or "pinch" of the filament. PETG seems to be softer than PLA or ABS, and I've had problems where it was rolled out like pie crust by the filament feed gear to the point where it would not feed. Reducing pressure, reducing retraction, and increasing the minimum extrusion between retractions helped.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I just made an account to point out that you will scorch your PTFE tube if you listen to anyone here telling you to print at 250+ C. I have done this, it is a bad idea without an all metal hotend.
Not a lot of dumb things on here will actually give you cancer, but cooking your PTFE-liner will.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I use a fine round brass brush, similar to what you would use to clean a gun barrel, to keep my nozzle clean. The brass is softer than the nozzle material, so it doesn't damage it, and the bristles grab strings easily - you barely have to touch them.
I'm using SUNLU PETG filament in my Ender 3. It sticks VERY well to the "Creality Original Ultra Removable Magnetic 3D Printer Build Surface". I'm set at 70 °C on the bed. Get your height set well. I had a ton of issues with nothing sticking until I got it dialed in. Now, it almost sticks too well. I often have to remove the magnetic sheet in order to get larger prints off it.
# Answer
> 0 votes
55 mm per second is the highest I would go with PETG. Cleaning the nozzle more often helps. Also check your PID for the nozzle temp, it could be inconsistent and PETG can be very finicky with temperature.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, petg
---
|
thread-6711
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6711
|
Polyurethane-and-steel timing belts?
|
2018-08-22T13:27:31.323
|
# Question
Title: Polyurethane-and-steel timing belts?
Has anyone tried the steel-reinforced polyurethane timing belts? If so, how do they compare to the rubber ones?
# Answer
It's a question of **what you want to use the belt for.**
All Belts are subject to stress as they run around the motor and idlers and gears and bend. They will get eaten as they are subject to friction against parts, they will stretch as they are subject to tension. All this applies some sort of stress or another on the belt. Anything that is subject to stress wears. And as it wears, it will fail. The question is just: **What is your life expectancy?** The lifetime expectancy is again dependant on how the belt is used, so usage dictates lifetime of the belt.
Each belt type has an application it is designed for. A bending radius that is to be kept at, a gear it is to be used with, a load it is expected to move, a tension it is expected to uphold, and a lifetime it is expected to serve.
Let's take a short look at some rough ideas what
### a soft rubber belt without additions
This is usually a bad choice for printers, but can occasionally be in very cheap kits. This kind of belt *has* applications. It is for really low loads, it can work tight bends for a long time and provides superb self-tensioning with just a very short tensioning device. On the other side, most rubbers don't take heat well, stretches a lot, wear fast and can only move a light load. If it rubs against a standing object, it squeaks horribly.
### a medium hard, somewhat elastic belt reinforced with fibers
The standard belt we often get with printer kits. the fibers lessen the material's stretching ability while offering still some self-tensioning (depending on the fibers). These properties allow to move medium loads yet harder material demands slightly larger bend diameters (not *too* much, but measurable!). When the piece gets friction against a standing surface the sound will be not that horrible, but the harder rubber might start to shave off, break teeth and destroy the belt after some time. The typical reinforcing is done with cloth, usually cotton, so there are some limits to how much they can take.
### reinforcing with aramid fibers
Some fibers are better than others for our applications because of how they stretch and reinforce it. Aramid fibers, for example, are better than cloth. Some *consider* them as impossible to wear out with the tension in 3D Printing applications alone, but that is not entirely the case. They still stretch under larger loads or on longer lengths enough that it can be a problem (or become one). They also can still be shredded with friction (and heat). For a professional machine, the expected lifetime is quite nice. They are though, but only as good as the rubber used and if properly installed. There are also generally two types: long fibers and short fibers. Long fibers have a somewhat even stretching behavior, while short fibers have totally different stretching behavior. The latter type is looked at in scholarly articles like Yin, Zhou, Lou et al.
### a hard belt reinforced with fibers
Let's take... Uhm... a toothed belt from a car. I believe some of these are aramid-reinforced, old ones are on cloth cores, most modern ones I know are steel reinforced. It is somewhat hard. By design, it is made to withstand a strong tension at high speeds. It needs somewhat big bending radii for the hard rubber, but that is easily given by the gears and the large teeth don't break easily. Over the lifetime it will slowly stretch due to the temperature it will encounter, till at some point it gets too loose or looses too many teeth as the parameters don't match up with the teeth anymore and they get ground away. It is made to deliver high torque and could move - if something similar was used on a printer-like machine (like a large CNC), a heavy load for a long time, but the machine needs to be made accordingly.
### steel reinforced belt
Steel is going stiffer. Steel reinforcements usually get the stretching parameter to a bare minimum at the cost of increasing their minimum bend and added weight. They can be used to move very heavy loads without the belt starting to slack as it simply can't stretch to give slack on the underside of the belt loop when forces are applied. Steel belts are pretty much Heavy Duty. If you can work with the bending radii belonging to them (as said, usually a little bigger than a similar fiber-reinforced one), you could make use of these properties, for example in a CNC Router with a full spindle or when moving very heavy tool heads.
### carbonfiber reinforced
And then there is the super heavy-duty carbon fiber. One can barely stretch it (steel is less stretchy), making these belts super tough in the stretching compartment and granting an extremely long life under most conditions. In comparison to steel, they can work much tighter radii. Usually, they are coupled with urethanes to get a high wear resistance against abrasion. The biggest downside: their price.
## Belt Materials
### Silicone
Silicone is soft but high temperature resistant but dislikes abrasive forces.
### Uretane
Urethanes are not the best to handle the heat, but they can handle abrasive forces. They also don't create dust in the same way as other rubbers.
### Neoprene
The most interesting feature of neoprene belts is their reduced noise under work.
> 9 votes
# Answer
Belts come in several formulations. This page from McMaster-Carr lists several types of belts. The main materials (rubbers) are Neoprene and urethane, with fiberglass, Kevlar, and steel reinforcement. I would suggest spending some time looking at these, comparing the specs, and basing your choice on the needs of your application.
I used 1/4" wide MXL series cut-to-length in my machine. I have yet to see a wear or stretch problem and haven't yet done the high-speed photography to look for dynamic stretch. IMO, I have a bigger problem with the length of belt resonating like a guitar string than I do with the stretch of the belt. The compliance needed for resonance can come not only from the belt but also from the mechanical system it is mounted to. In some cases, a slightly stretchy belt could dampen oscillations that would otherwise result from impulse forces being coupled into the printer frame.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I have recently changed the standard belts on my Prusa MK3 for the aramid fiber reinforced E3D neoprene belts. Those belts are really tough and hard to cut even with a quality side cutter! They have a much smoother surface and a lot more aramid fibers than the standard belts.
Prior to the change, the belt on the X axis was twisting when changing directions, now it is running straight and smooth. Surface quality has improved a little, the ripples are smaller and more regular. Overall a small but noticeable improvement
P.S. I am using belt tensioners on both x and y axis.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I do not believe the standard rubber/plastic belts have any significant stretching over time, nor do they stretch under drive motor force during acceleration (and in any case, extrusion takes place mostly under steady-velocity conditions).
While I suppose it's possible a steel-reinforced belt might have a longer lifetime, replacing a belt is quick and cheap, so why bother?
*\[incorporating comments\] My suspicion is that standard belts, e.g., as supplied with Prusa-clone kits will outlive us mere mortals. They can move an entire print bed+heater, so a larger print head is not an issue.*
The usual problem with any belt material is ensuring there's no significant slack (which leads to backlash/hysteresis), and changing the material won't help or hurt tensioning control systems.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I had really bad problems with GT2 PU belts (including steel reinforced), under big tension they degrade suddenly with big change in the geometry at some position. When removed they look twisted. Looks like some reinforcing wires slipped inside the PU body of the belt.
Once switched to rubber GT2 belts (fibreglass reinforced) I never had problems connected to the belts. I can tell that rubber GT2 belts have no noticeable change in the geometry over many years of constant use under high tension with the spring.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: maintenance, belt, linear-motion
---
|
thread-15457
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15457
|
Are there FDM epoxy/resin printers?
|
2021-01-26T17:58:54.273
|
# Question
Title: Are there FDM epoxy/resin printers?
After seeing a question about FDM printing of temperature-resistant parts, high-temperature 2-part epoxy came to mind. Are there any (experimental or production) FDM extruders for laying viscous, fast-curing epoxy, mixing it at the last moment before extrusion? Or likewise other cured/resin materials, either 2-part or UV-cured (with whole print volume flooded with UV)?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Yes, it has been done for many years - but it's not referred to as FDM when you use deposition of resins. At room temperature it's often called **Direct Ink Writing** (DIW, example), and if heated it's often called **Hot Melt Extrusion** (HME, example).
*Disclaimer: I work for Hyrel 3D, a 3D printer manufacturer which has been making heads that deposit one- or two-part resins since 2015. See over 300 published papers, many of which cite this exact process.*
# Answer
> 2 votes
Apparently now the answer is yes. A company called MASSIVit has a system they call GDP - gel dispensing printing - that's essentially what I asked about, on an extremely large scale. 3D Printing Nerd has a video from their booth at Formnext 2021 in Frankfurt, Germany.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Is this what you're looking for?
(https://the3dprinterbee.com/how-does-a-resin-3d-printer-work-sla-dlp-lcd-explained/)
Material Beam
Material blasting is a unique 3D resin printing technology that can be compared to an office inkjet printer. It is also considered one of the fastest and most accurate 3D printing technologies available for resin printing today.
Material Beam 3D printers are similar to inkjet 3D printers in that they also have a print head from which thousands of tiny resin droplets are applied to the building platform and then cured with UV light. Once a layer has been completed, the building platform automatically lowers to the height of a layer and the process is repeated until the object is completed.
The technology of material blasting enables high dimensional accuracy, but speed is also a convincing point. The process in which the resin droplets are ejected from several print heads, which in turn move back and forth over the building platform, is known as line-by-line cutting. This ensures that multiple parts can be produced without affecting the build speed. As a user, you also have the choice between matte and shiny surfaces on your 3D printed object. However, the individual components for material beam technology are very cost-intensive. Other disadvantages are the waste of material when you choose to print matt surfaces and the low strength of the 3D printed parts.
# Answer
> 1 votes
There is this enter link description here printer which uses a liquid resin that's cured using UV at the very tip of the nozel, it prints in layers like an FDM printer and is extremely fast but can't do small details.
I've only ever seen it print at a large scale I don't know if there is a prototype for a desktop version.
---
Tags: extruder, extrusion, print-material, paste-extruder
---
|
thread-19355
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19355
|
Circle isn't in the shape of a circle
|
2022-05-07T19:41:45.183
|
# Question
Title: Circle isn't in the shape of a circle
Printer doesn't print perfect circles while calicat is perfect and top layers look weird on Ender 3 Pro:
I used Cura and an Ender 3 Pro, eSun PLA+, print at 210 °C.
# Answer
Try printing a 20mm reference cube and verify the dimensions. Also calibrate your extruder - it looks "fat" to me like there's just too much plastic.
I print the same filament at the same temperature, on an ender3 v2 so you're in the right area for temperatures.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality
---
|
thread-19353
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19353
|
Has anyone written a primer for hobbyists new to 3D printing?
|
2022-05-07T02:55:07.467
|
# Question
Title: Has anyone written a primer for hobbyists new to 3D printing?
Most of the guides I can find are just canned responses to specific questions. Instead I'm looking for something meant to teach good fundamental understanding and core needed skills. Beginner's guides are common in other hobbies but I am having trouble finding one for 3d printing.
# Answer
Here's a brief outline I threw out in chat once. I'm marking this as a "community Wiki" answer so feel free to edit.
It is not a full Primer, so should date better than a Word6.0 manual.
---
Start by reading the instructions that came with your printer. There's a high chance that some assembly is required, and if you get something wrong then things may nor work right later. Some brands come complete, some are better than others in this regard. Take your time.
For most people, they spend the first couple of weeks failing prints for multiple reasons. For me it was bed levelling and getting the first layer-adhesion, and filament tension.
So work on getting the bed levelled, work out how much gluestick or tape your filament needs to work, and what temperatures work in your environment.
I use 210 °C on the hotend for PLA+ and 60 °C bed temp, though others get away with 190 °C on the hotend and 50 °C on the bed. My printer is in a garage though.
Try and print a 20 mm cube or a benchy.
After that, explore http://thingiverse.com or http://thangs.com looking for pre-made stuff that you would benefit from. Start small.
The Grab Toy Infinite is a great starter - it's very forgiving about tolerances, and kids like it. Expect rough handling to break it.
When you're happy printing other people's things, identify some needs of your own. In fact, make up a document / draught email / notepad of ideas of things to print. I add stuff to mine all the time.
When you've got a need that no one else can fill, you can start designing your own item and do the whole
```
idea --> ||: (re)design --> implement --> test --> curse :|| success!! loop.
```
Many people bang on about expensive fancy software, but you can make a perfectly adequate part using http://tinkercad.com/ as a grounding.
For example, I had too many spare hacksaw blades and none of the "holders" I could buy were perfect, nor even close. Here's my output:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9yQMmxRv4Lz-spare-hacksaw-blade-holder
Like many things in making, expect to fail and learn and do it again.
Sometimes it looks like we buy printers to print things for the printers for printing things for the printers...repeat.
Look for needs in your life and design something to fill them. It's most satisfying.
There's a huge gap between Functional prints, which do a job, and pretty prints which are just to look nice.
Functional things are great - you can therefore justify the cost of more printer upgrades. LOOK AT ALL THE MONEY WE SAVED!
But overall enjoy yourself and the time you spend making things.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Thera are plenty of such guides. But from necessity they deal with specifics, there are too many things to cover otherwise.
Multiple types of printers, multiple brands, multiple slicers, multiple ways of modelling etc,. With more all the time. Reading up on something that tells me how to model and slice in Freecad & Creality, when I'm using Blender & Cura is a waste of time.
Generic instructions that apply to everything are so vague as to be essentially useless. (Plenty of those online though)
> 0 votes
---
Tags: knowledgebase
---
|
thread-19359
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19359
|
Best way to make a new model for custom part printing?
|
2022-05-08T04:23:23.410
|
# Question
Title: Best way to make a new model for custom part printing?
Looking to print a new part for a home appliance. There's going to need to be a new model created with the customizations made, but the model (after printing) will have to fit where the old part was. Is there any 3D modeling software that is better for this purpose? Will I just have to guess at proper proportions and hand-adjust the scaling of each dimension and angle through trial and error until a version fits?
# Answer
Use software specifically designed for making parts with specific dimensions and then measure exactly what you need and design from the measurements.
I use Freecad for this sort of thing but there are plenty of others that let you precisely control the measurements.
Most 3d software could probably manage it, but if you use one specifically designed for this sort of work there is less of a learning curve and you don't have to mess around learning irrelevant stuff.
> 2 votes
# Answer
# Use a CAD software
Whenever you need to make a part fit given dimensions, it is best to set those. There are tons of Computer Aided Design software packages around, starting at free and ending at thousands a year for a single PC license. There are so many, that Wikipedia made a comparison list
all3Dp always curates a list of free 3D software. Among them, I can point to the following as options:
* I personally prefer Fusion 360 by Autodesk, which is quite powerful but slightly cut down in the free version. It is known to produce very good exportable designs but has a somewhat steep learning curve. It also allows parametric designs, very valuable if you need to customize items.
* Onshape is similar to Fusion 360 in that Hobbyists get it free, but it is browser-based, making it possibly easier accessible. It is a full-powered CAD suite, including parametric design.
* FreeCAD might not be as powerful or fancy as Fusion360 and Onshape, but it is a solid, well-working CAD package. It has also a somewhat easier learning curve than the likes. It allows entering OpenSCAD code, which means, you can add mathematic formulae to design your part.
* OpenSCAD is the absolute barebone, but absolutely parametric. It takes mathematical descriptions of bodies to design them - which is hard to learn and master but allows to create some very intricate mathematical models.
* SketchUp Free has a dubious reputation among printing enthusiasts, as its STL solutions at times have inverted surfaces.
Not on the curated list of all3dp is one entry I personally worked with and which is somewhat potent but easy to use:
* DesignSpark Mechanical is a derivative of the powerful Ansys Space Claim CAD software and is offered for free. It is *somewhat* limited though.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, rapid-prototyping
---
|
thread-4032
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4032
|
Continuing a failed print when you have Auto Mesh Bed Leveling
|
2017-05-10T09:57:08.057
|
# Question
Title: Continuing a failed print when you have Auto Mesh Bed Leveling
When you have Auto Mesh Bed Leveling enabled on your printer, it's not possible to continue a failed print, is it?
# Answer
Continuing a failed print has nothing to do with automatic bed leveling. It has everything to do with knowing which line failed, repositioning to resume from that point, and resuming from that line of code.
> 4 votes
# Answer
So like resuming any print, if you've already done the work to find the layer you failed at, edited the G-code to start from that layer. But now you feel stuck because to start a print you need to home your printer right? And homing with a BLTouch makes it probe the center of your bed... which happens to be where your print is at. IF you're on Klipper, you can put something like this here:
```
[homing_override]
set_position_z:0
gcode:
G90
G1 Z10 F600
G28 X Y
#G1 X161 Y125 F6000 ;old bed center
G1 X245 Y215 F6000 ;far right corner of the bed. You may have to adjust your X and Y for your BLTouch location as mine is on a Hero Me hotend
G28 Z
G1 Z100 F24000 ; move Z-axis up so hotend doesn't hit the print when zeroing. Adjust this as needed to clear your print from where it failed
G1 X0 Y0 F24000
```
And from there, the printer should Home and you can start your partial G-code from here. IF YOU HAVE KLIPPER. Make sure to remove any purge lines or stuff like that from your Start Print code.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer
---
|
thread-19363
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19363
|
Ender 3: Extruder Stepper Motor - Hand Turn
|
2022-05-10T00:29:00.807
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3: Extruder Stepper Motor - Hand Turn
Should I be able to hand turn the stepper motor for the extruder of an Ender 3?
Trying to figure out why the motor isn’t turning on a new to me, never used, but out-of-warranty Ender 3.
Swapping controller cables I discovered the extruder port on the motherboard is dead, but even if I put it on the X axis and manually move the axis it makes the sound like it should move, but doesn’t actually move at all.
Trying to figure out if it’s seized or something. Doing a resistance test with a multimeter shows a resistance of 4 for either of the two pairs of wires. I am not sure what else to test.
I have a hard time believing I need a new control board and a new stepper motor, but maybe two things are broke.
Thanks for the help!
---
## EDIT - Got the Extruder Working
After the comments here mentioned that "Yes, it should be able to be moved by hand", curiosity got the better of me and I said, "Well, if its broken, let's see why".
I did the following:
1. I tried to turn the stepper motor by hand again, just to confirm I wasn't crazy from the day before when I tried it. It wouldn't budge.
2. I removed all four screws on the bottom of the stepper motor and attempted to pry things apart. While fiddling with it, I thought I saw the stepper motor turn.
3. Sure enough, I now tried to spin the stepper motor and it moved relatively easily.
4. I put the 4 screws back in place and validated I could still hand turn the motor. I could in fact do so.
5. I hooked the stepper motor back up to the X axis controller and told it to move, and sure enough now it moves and works!
6. Just as a sanity check, I then hooked it up to the extruder controller and it again wouldn't turn.
I'm going to try what @towe recommended to make sure the controller board is in fact fried, but I *think* I might JUST have a fried board and not a fried motor.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Yes - you should be able to turn the extruder by hand when it is unplugged and therefore not powered.
The V2 comes with a blue plastic knob for this purpose, it may be too small to turn the shaft by hand.
When powered and "steppers enabled" the motors need a lot more force to overcome, but even that can be done by hand or a machine crash.
If you can't turn the extruder at all, its probably toast. That you've tested other ports on the board is excellent problem solving.
Whatever damaged the motor has likely damaged the board too, or vise versa.
You likely need both parts replaced to get this printer working again. Could be expensive - you might want to compare cost of parts with cost of a new printer, remembering there may be other non-functional components still undiscovered.
Plausibly, with a dead extruder, you could slap a laser on this unit and make it a dedicated burner. The creality laser module is around $50 USD.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Criggie's answer is basically correct, but I disagree with the conclusion that it:
> Could be expensive - you might want to compare cost of parts with cost of a new printer, remembering there may be other non-functional components still undiscovered.
If you want to turn the Ender 3 into a decent printer, the controller board is one of the components you want to replace anyway, since it comes with either (old models) extremely loud and poorly performing A4988 stepper drivers or (newer models) TMC2208 stepper drivers hard-wired in a mode where they don't work well and malfunction if you enable Linear Advance (which is critical to getting decent prints on a bowden extruder system). Good boardsthat are exact fits for the housing and cable connectors, with TMC2209 steppers that lack the above problems, can be had for $35 or so.
If the motor is dead, that's a pain but not expensive to replace. Equivalent motors are available for $15 or so all over the place, or you could make the upgrade to a light-weight geared direct drive extruder with pancake stepper instead of the large NEMA 17 (which negates pretty much all of the disadvantages of direct drive and gives you a much better printer than you started with).
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, extruder, motor
---
|
thread-11492
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11492
|
Best material for compression?
|
2019-12-07T23:23:23.073
|
# Question
Title: Best material for compression?
I'm designing a mount for a cylindrical speaker to attach to my bicycle. It will mount on the bottle cages. I've printed a few iterations with various infill settings (using PLA) and the weak point is always the bolts holding the entire mount to the bike. They can't handle the compression needed to secure it properly. I had thought about using an imbedded metal part to distribute the load, but it's not easily replicable and I want to make the design public and fairly accessible to others with the same speaker. I currently have PETG and ABS, would one of those perform better or should I order a specialty high strength polymer?
# Answer
1. Infill has minimal effect on the strength of printed parts, so I would expect the part to break in the same spot regardless of what infill percentage you used.
2. PLA is especially poor in this exact application, and it undergoes significant creep/cold flow under mechanical compression over time, so even if achieved the necessary strength by changing settings (which you can), it would require that you periodically tighten the bolts more and more, as the PLA would slowly deform under the mounting pressure.
Perimeter width and number of perimeters are what primarily influence the strength of a printed object, infill has very little impact on strength in comparison, and unless you're using an exotic pattern like gyroid, what impact it does have is not even close to isotropic (will add strength in some directions while doing nothing in others). But even then, infill only really has an effect when we are talking about forces that are spread evenly over the entire object, not concentrated strength of a specific spot of the part. And that effect is always much weaker than what perimeter count or width will have.
Just **bump up your perimeters to 4** or even more and that should make a huge difference.
And also, don't use PLA. **I think PETG is a much better choice in this situation.** It is more ductile only slightly less rigid than PLA, making it much more durable overall than PLA, and less prone to cracking under compressive forces. PLA theoretically has higher tensile strength, but that often doesn't mean much.
I would not recommend ABS, it tends to have similar issues with brittleness and is one of the weaker materials one can 3D print.
It terms of ordering a special high strength polymer.... unless printer and hotend is rated for in excess of 400°C, no such 'high strength polymer' exists, at least not that you can print. PLA and PETG are close to the best you can get, with Polycarbonate inching out ahead but not by a huge amount (~20%). Despite what filament companies would like you to believe, carbon fiber ***reduces*** the strength of PLA, ABS, PETG, PC, and probably nylon, and instead simply makes those polymers more rigid and increases dimensional stability. The only filaments that would actually be made stronger with added fibers short enough for filament manufacturing processes are ones with glass fiber. But you don't want to print those filaments, trust me. They will dull the teeth on your hobbed gear(s), even if made from steel, and will just ruin all but ruby nozzles very very quickly. And they **still wear out ruby nozzles** even then.
There are exotic polymers, but none of them print at less than ~350°C, and are generally exceedingly expensive. All the polymers that can be used at normal printing temperatures are all fairly similar to each other in terms of tensile strength at least.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I realize this is an old thread but I’d still like to share some thoughts for others who may find this post.
If I understood correctly, you were printing this part in to see shape You were printing this part in a C shape. Loops horizontal, strut vertical. Yes, that will produce a very weak strut that is likely to split open when tightened.
Next option is to print it in a U shape. Now you have a rock solid strut that will sustain compressive strength from bikts much better but depending on thickness and forces, your loops at the end may be prone to fail.
You may want to consider designing this in three parts, strut plus 2 loops, that you glue together. I know glueing doesn’t sound very sexy but 1) each part is printed with optimal strength, and 2) glues like Weld-On produce incredibly strong bonds, as strong or even stronger than inter-layer printed strength.
And lastly, it may also help to use overdimensioned washers on BOTH sides the strut to spread the compressive force of bolt and bike frame and prevent splitting.
> 1 votes
# Answer
For your particular application, you should be able to get something acceptably strong with PLA as long as you design it right - both the model itself, and the way you slice it (orientation, number of walls, etc.). metacollin's answer covers this pretty thoroughly. Using PETG could be an improvement, if you're willing to spend time learning how to print it right (if done wrong it's super-brittle).
However, as towe suggested in a comment, I'd give TPU a try. When printed with many walls or with high infill rate, TPU can be fairly rigid, and there's no way you're going to damage it with a bolt unless you just keep going after it's already tight. It's a relatively easy material to work with, and pretty much any printer that can print PLA can print TPU (although you may have to slow it down quite a bit) so it meets your requirement of being accessible to others with the same speaker.
(Note to self and others: it'd be a neat experiment to take a torque wrench to a bolt with metal washers through a solid brick of TPU and see how much it can take before it fails, and how it fails when it does.)
> 0 votes
# Answer
Try heating op your PLA while mounting it. The PLA wil temporarily weaken and will become a bit moldable. PETG is a bit more brittle than PLA is my experience so I'd say stick to PLA. Otherwise you might try Arnitel ECO. I can try to find an amazon purchase link for you if you want. Anyway, it is more rubber like and stays flexible, it will never crack but depending on your design it might become a bit more wobbly. If you share a picture of your design or an STL i might be able to help you a bit better.
> -2 votes
---
Tags: material, print-strength
---
|
thread-19344
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19344
|
Problems with underextrusion
|
2022-05-05T12:38:24.150
|
# Question
Title: Problems with underextrusion
I have a problem with, what I think is underextrusion (see attached photos), but I'd like to ask you If my assumption is correct. If it is underextrusion could you advice me which slicer settings should I adjust?
The nozzle isn't blocked, so now I'm trying to solve the matter by increasing flow rate, but apart from that and e-step calibration I have no idea.
I have an HBot 3D 1.1 printer (it's a CoreXY style printer) which I use together with Cura. I print in PLA at 200 °C. The print bed is set to 70 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width is set to 0.4 mm from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 30 mm/s for walls and 60 mm/s for infill. My retraction is 6.5 mm off at 25 mm/s.
Two other settings I've adjusted are print jerk (from 20 to 1 mm/s) and acceleration (from 3000 mm/s² to 500 mm/s²).I've changed them to stop the printer from shaking too much.
# Answer
Ok, I've messed a little with settings. Turns out that turning z-hop completely fixed the issue.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, underextrusion, hbot-3d-1.1
---
|
thread-19358
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19358
|
What is causing these severe print errors on an Ender 3?
|
2022-05-08T03:42:55.297
|
# Question
Title: What is causing these severe print errors on an Ender 3?
I've noticed a lot of beginners with the Ender 3 are getting blobby prints. The default nozzle temperature with the slicer and printer is 200 °C. The filament's manufacturer's suggested nozzle temperature is 215 °C. What're the best Slic3r settings to solve this?
Here are some examples. These are supposed to be shaped roughly like a human eye. After the bottom right failure I tried doubling the default retraction distance and adding glue stick to the bed, keeping the nozzle temperature at 200 °C. The bottom left print was next. There was no severe blobbing but the nozzle still seems to have dislodged the print while transitioning from infill to the next layer's perimeter. The next print was the top one, which had +1 mm Z distance for the nozzle and increased the nozzle temperature to 215 °C.
Support material options are turned off. These prints seem to go bad within the first few layers. I've tried watching the print carefully and saw that the nozzle kept bumping the perimeter during infill. I tried a print with double-sided tape, which held the print more firmly. I finished one of the double-sided tape prints. Although most of the print was fine the first three layers are *extremely harsh* with very different consistency from the rest of the print. Subsequent prints get to about two inches in height then consistently fail at the same height. At about two inches the nozzle side-swipes the top layer of the perimeter. This tips the model over. The results are much as seen above. I tried a smaller model and the printer made the harsh layers then started the model but failed for the same reason, though within only a few layers.
# Answer
> 3 votes
First of all, I would make sure that my bed is properly leveled. Download one of the bed level tests and keep adjusting until you get good, slightly smooshed lines. It's possible that the nozzle was too low but it's hard to say.
You might also want to look into changing your Z-offset (Ender 3 sometimes can have a slightly warped bed). The easiest way to adjust it is probably downloading Cura slicer, clicking on **Marketplace** \> **Plugins**, and downloading a free Z-offset plugin. Then you can adjust your offset under build plate adhesion settings and, while we are on the subject, if your print falls over try printing with the Brim turned on.
Another reason might be a partially clogged nozzle, if you have an Ender machine you probably also got a bag with all the extra bits. It should have a needle-like piece of wire you can use to unclog your hot end.
You could also try some settings that limit the amount of time printhead travels over previously finished areas like Combing mode and Z-hop.
If your problems are indeed caused by wrong retraction settings try printing a retraction tower test. You could download the "Calibration Shapes" plugin for Cura. If you do so, under the **Extensions** tab you should see "Calibration Shapes". Select retraction tower to place it, then click on **Extensions** \> **Post-processing** \> **Modify G-code** \> **Add script** \> **Retract tower**. Adjust distance and speed in separate tests.
Alternatively, you can download a retraction tower model and use support blockers to create volumes with different print parameters (place a blocker so it overlaps with your model, under **Per Model Settings** select **Modify settings for overlaps**, load whatever parameters you like, and adjust them)
Poke your printbed to check if it has a wobble because it shouldn't, also if your printer shakes violently while at work you could lower your speed/acceleration/jerk settings. I'm theorizing but I think it could cause similar issues, though for me it was only ever a problem in direct drive printers, which would make sense because of bigger printhead inertia.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, troubleshooting, calibration, slic3r
---
|
thread-18310
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18310
|
Dye sublimation printing on 3D printed object
|
2021-11-01T03:56:47.360
|
# Question
Title: Dye sublimation printing on 3D printed object
Has anyone been able to dye sublimate 3D printed objects? Which materials work and what products are necessary?
I've been trying to find out and apparently it is supposed to be possible. But I'm not finding more detail than that. (Actually, a lot of sites say it isn't possible)
# Answer
> 3 votes
Yes, ABS can be dye sublimated quite easily using a press, timing is the main issue.
PLA can also be dye sublimated if you're careful but will lose a lot of volume due to the heat and pressure. Not too bad if you print solid, but with infill expect the infill to collapse, or melt (unsure which).
PETG is excellent for Dye sublimation. Like ABS it's all in the timing but the result is superior.
---
Tags: color
---
|
thread-19375
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19375
|
What is the type of motion system of the Ender 5 called?
|
2022-05-12T12:50:28.980
|
# Question
Title: What is the type of motion system of the Ender 5 called?
It's not CoreXY, it's not H-Bot and it's definitly not a bedslinger. What do you call this type of motion system?
# Answer
> 1 votes
It's a plain cartesian motion system that's basically the same as an Ender 3/bedslinger, except that the X gantry moves along the Y axis rather than the Z, and is driven by belt rather than lead screw. So far this is pretty much identical to an Ender 3 with belt-driven Z mod, just rotated 90 degrees. I'm not sure there's any particular name for it. Cartesian motion systems have lots of variations for the specifics of how each axis moves, and most don't seem to have dedicated names unless there's a reason to talk about good or bad properties of a whole class (as is the case with bedslingers).
---
Tags: creality-ender-5, creality
---
|
thread-13676
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13676
|
First layer rippling and no filament in certain areas
|
2020-05-16T06:53:56.443
|
# Question
Title: First layer rippling and no filament in certain areas
I'm new to 3D printing and I noticed some problems with my print.
I've printed it 3 times and releveled the bed. Now, I found that the right lower corner always has holes,
and some stringing problems
Lastly, the place where there should be a full line suddenly becomes string-like, and it always happens at the same place.
It's like my extruder pulls out the filament or fails to create filament in the area that should be filled with filament. Is it normal or did I set my printer wrong? I'm afraid it might cause holes in my new print.
There's also some stringing problem that causes the layer to be uneven.
Slicer: Cura 4.6
Settings:
My printer is Anycubic 4Max Pro
# Answer
Anycubic 4Max Pro appears to be a direct drive printer (extruder motor is right on top of hotend). The 6.5 mm retraction on in your slicer settings is more typical of a Bowden setup, where the extruder motor lives off of the moving carriage, and has to move extra to compensate for slack in the tube to the hotend. Direct drive retraction distance is typically 1 mm to 3 mm. I bet you can retract faster than 25 mm/s- the speed matters. Also, 60 mm/s travel speed is quite slow. 150 mm/s is typical. Faster travel means less time to ooze.
Your initial layer print speed of 20mm/s is good, slow slow makes the first layer stick better. I don’t see your 1st layer thickness setting, but I have had good success with using a thick first layer with a chunky, wide line width (like 150% of nozzle size), even if the following layers are fine. The idea being that more plastic and height in the initial layer makes it less temperamental as far as bed leveling goes, and it holds together nicely.
The cobweb-like lines are from the Combing Mode setting in Cura, that ignores the retraction when traveling through infill. Unfortunately there is a setting that also ignores retraction on the bottom layer, you want to change that under “combing mode” it is set to “not in skin”, or combing is set to off.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I see this is an old post but I type anyway if someone else stumbles up in here with the same problem.
First of all, I have a Qidi X-max printer and it printed exactly as in the picture. I am not 100 percent sure because pictures don't tell everything. I googled it very hard to find people that had the same issue. I only find this but it didn't help me so much.
I took apart my printing head on the machine, it is built with a direct extruder. I found some screws were not tightened and the block was a bit loose. I could screw it in 1 whole turn. After that, I cleaned the gear for the extruder so all the old filament was gone. There was not much filament but better do it properly. After that, I screwed all back and it was gone. I can't say for sure what was the exact cause. But if I have to guess I think it was because of not having properly tightened screws. This problem occurred every time when it was starting a new layer. It was not squeezing properly from the beginning and after maybe 3-4 mm everything squeezing as it should. New layers and seams were affected by this. Holes at the beginning of the layer and holes in seams. I also tried increasing the temp and flow. Flow helped a little but not much. So check all the screws. The ones I found were holding the print head. If that doesn't help do as I did and see if that fixes the problem.
> 1 votes
# Answer
From the wispy horizontal lines within the perimeters in your second image, it appears that the nozzle is still oozing material during the travel moves. This is likely causing the hole in the corner and the wispy perimeters too. When the extruder reinserts the filament into the hotend after a travel move, it expects the same amount of material to be in the nozzle as when it extracted the filament, but some material has oozed out during the travel move so that is not the case. I had a similar issue with my printer, and was able to mitigate the problem by increasing the *retraction extra prime amount* in the material section of Cura. This should compensate for the material loss during the travel move by reinserting the filament slightly farther when starting the extrusion. This solution is not perfect as different lengths of travel allow different volumes of filament to ooze from the nozzle. If you want perfect prints, you may have to tune this to the model you are printing: larger models usually require larger travel moves which would allow more time for plastic to ooze from the nozzle.
If you try this, make sure to look for blobs at the start of extrude moves. If the prime amount is set to high, it can create blobs on the side of the model (or inside depending on which perimeter is extruded first) which could cause tolerance issues on more complex parts.
Personally, I have also added a small coast distance to the end of each extrusion (located in Cura's experimental section). This allows the nozzle to ooze into the perimeter of the part which should decrease the stringing on travel moves, and thus loss of material on travel moves.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: extruder, bed-leveling, adhesion
---
|
thread-18548
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18548
|
What is the practical difference between using linear speed vs flow rate to determine print speed?
|
2021-12-12T19:45:08.983
|
# Question
Title: What is the practical difference between using linear speed vs flow rate to determine print speed?
Most people, articles, videos, etc. refer to printing speed by linear speed (mm/s), but a lot of YouTubers prefer to talk about volumetric flow (mm<sup>3</sup>/s) (mm cubed per second). I suspect that at some point in the past year or three, some of the more engineer-y types switched to this new measurement standard, but I'm not entirely sure what happened. What is the practical difference between using linear speed vs flow rate to determine print speed?
For a follow-up, how can you go about changing your print speed as a flow rate in a slicer? It's easy to find the linear speed, but I have not found the flow rate speed. I use Cura and will start using Prusa Slic3r soon.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Linear print speed is widely written in marketing material and in filament manufacturers' official print setting recommendations, and is the value talked about by naive users, including a number of popular YouTube personalities. **However, in most contexts it's at best the wrong number, and more often, meaingless.**
For example, you will see printer manufacturers bragging that they can print at "250 mm/s", and it turns out what they mean is that, when you set the print speed in the slicer to "250 mm/s", it works. However, their profile has the acceleration set to 500 mm/s², and you need a straight line all the way across the bed to accelerate up to that speed momentarily before starting to slow down again, and overall average prints come out 5% faster than when you set it to "90 mm/s".
If you set this kind of lying (or incompetence, if you accept Hanlon's Razor) aside, and only talk about the actual *velocity achieved* under an acceleration profile, linear speed becomes meaningful, but probably not the right number, because it's missing any information about the actual limiting factors. Provided the speed isn't beyond the max RPM of your stepper motors (around 650 RPM for typical motors on 24V printers), **any printer** can print at that speed as long as your layer height is thin enough or your lines are narrow enough. In fact if you go look at a few of the top "1000 mm/s" YouTube videos, they're using 0.1 mm layer height or thinner - which is easy to do, but not interesting to most people. It's not helping you print *faster* because now you have twice as many (or more) layers to print.
Volumetric flow rate takes all of that into account. If you print at 20 mm³/s and I print at 10 mm³/s (and if these are actual average flow over the whole print, not just a speed limit that's rarely achieved due to acceleration profile limits), your print will finish in half the time of mine. That is a meaningful speed - one that can't be used to lie/mislead by printing thin layers or whatever. Moreover, it's the limit you need to know, for your particular hotend, extruder, and filament type, in order to be able to decide what speed to print at (whether you control this via volumetric flow limits or computing the corresponding linear speed limits yourself). If you're reading the filament manufacturer's recommendations, they didn't say it but they probably wrote those for 0.4 mm line width and 0.2 mm layer height, so you should multiply by 0.08 mm² to get the volumetric rate they intended.
This gets more important with slicers, particularly the upcoming Cura 5, which use varying line width (and thus varying relationship between the linear speed and volumetric speed) to extrude your layers. Now a single linear speed doesn't suffice to give you max performance while also staying within the physical limits of what you can extrude. Cura 5 has "Flow Equalization" to speed up or slow down to keep the volumetric rate matching what it would be at the nominal line width and speed.
Now, linear speed in mm/s is meaningful *sometimes* \- particularly, if you're showcasing the printer's motion system. High voltage steppers, larger pulleys, servo motors, etc. all can achieve some very high linear speeds (over 1000 mm/s) that ordinary 24V steppers (much less 12V ones on older printers) with normal size pulleys simply cannot do. Even if these speeds are not usable for print moves (because the volumetric flow rate becomes the limiting factor for what you can do), they're always usable for travel moves, which can easily be 25% or more of the time spent in complex prints.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Flow rate adds a dimension to the regularly used printing speed. Note that maximum volumetric flow is determined by the hotend (unless your extruder is under dimensioned or highly geared) as it cannot supply more molten filament than it can melt in a certain time.
So, instead of specifying the print speed, you should include the amount of material it can process. Volumetric flow includes nozzle diameter, layer thickness and hotend type.
E.g. a 60 mm/s of a 0.4 mm nozzle at a 0.2 mm layer height has a very different volumetric flow (4.8 mm³/s) from a 60 mm/s 0.8 mm nozzle at a 0.4 mm layer height (19.2 mm³/s). The latter may require a different hotend to get that flow, but usually it is advised to print slower with a larger nozzle.
Most practical is to use the linear printing speed. This is the value you find in the slicers. But, for a given hotend design it is good to keep the maximum volumetric flow into account to determine whether you are within the specifications of the hotend when you change certain printing/slicing parameters.
---
Tags: speed
---
|
thread-19380
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19380
|
Can OpenSCAD bend text (project it on curved surface)?
|
2022-05-12T21:43:51.987
|
# Question
Title: Can OpenSCAD bend text (project it on curved surface)?
I want to put relief text on curved surface but can't find way to do that in OpenSCAD. I'm aware it's possible to bend text in Blender and then `import stl`, but I don't like this workflow. I found sort of working solution but it's not perfect.
```
$fn=50;
module bend_text(caption, angle, text_height, text_width, text_depth, steps=10, k=1) {
dh = text_height / steps;
r = text_height / (angle * PI / 180);
h0 = - text_height / 2;
translate([0, 0, -r])
rotate([angle / 2, 0, 0])
for(i=[0:steps-1]) {
rotate([-i * angle/steps, 0, 0])
translate([0, -(dh * i + h0), r / k])
intersection() {
linear_extrude(text_depth)
text(caption, valign="center", halign="center");
translate([0, dh * i + h0, 0])
cube([text_width, dh, text_width], center=true);
}
}
}
bend_text("test", angle=90, text_height=9, text_width=30, text_depth=1, steps=10, k=1.1);
```
Is there better way?
# Answer
I can't say if this is better than your method, but it is a library resource specific to your requirements.
Text\_on OpenSCAD
The library covers various shapes, including cylindrical:
Image from linked site. Also from the site: "Only works with OpenSCAD v 2014.xx and later..."
Pursuant to the comments, another step may provide the desired result. Thinking for the cylinder primitive, once the text is placed and protruding a sufficient amount, creating a difference() with the inner cut location an appropriate distance from the primary cylinder should create curved surfaces to the text.
Envision a cylinder slightly smaller in diameter than an appropriate piece of pipe. As the pipe is lowered onto the cylinder, the text is "shaved" away. The "shaving pipe" outer diameter is insignificant, as long as it's not too thin, and the inner diameter of that pipe is dependent on the diameter of the primitive and the desired height of the curved text.
> 3 votes
# Answer
The workflow you're using is the only way I'm aware of, and it's at least respectable. You can abstract it as a module to apply to arbitrary children to make it somewhat less ugly and more reusable.
In theory, I think it should be possible to make an openscad transformation (in openscad itself, not in the scad language) that applies to arbitrary 3D objects by performing a 2D conformal map in each cross section perpendicular to a given axis, to achieve effects like this, without the possibility of breaking geometry. But I'm not aware of anyone working on that. I'll probably propose it at some point, and hopefully it won't get shot down as mathematically unsound (which it might be; I'm not sure).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: openscad
---
|
thread-19378
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19378
|
Blender add-on "3D Print Toolbox" and MeshLab
|
2022-05-12T15:32:38.177
|
# Question
Title: Blender add-on "3D Print Toolbox" and MeshLab
Blender software has a nice mesh analysis add-on called ”3D Print Toolbox". It is making us give it a second look for our 3D printing workflow.
On the other hand, MeshLab is very nice to have mesh repair tools.
I see the errors in the Blender, and then I close the program. And then I open MeshLab and make the corrections. The goal is to produce the model with a 3D printer.
Is there a possibility to do the analysis in MeshLab as well? How?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Meshlab has a bunch of tools for that under 'Filters', you'd need to read the documentation for specifics as your needs may vary from model to model.
But it's much the same as the Blender addon with the 'Cleaning and Repairing' options to merge vertices, close holes etc,.
---
Tags: 3d-models, blender
---
|
thread-13382
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13382
|
Ender 3 pro extruder skipping steps, tried multiple things
|
2020-04-10T17:59:57.533
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 pro extruder skipping steps, tried multiple things
I've already asked this question somewhere else but unfortunately I had little luck.
So... my Ender 3 Pro extruder just started skipping steps, as in the gears (and the gear pinion) will rotate but the filament won't flow. It all started when I changed PLA filament to a new roll; I thought it might have been the roll faulty so I've tried a spool that had been working fine until 2 hours before it all started. Nope, skipping with that one as well.
Here's what I've tried doing so far:
* Replaced the stock PTFE tubing with Capricorn tubing.
* Checked that the tubing is tight and does not have play.
* Replaced the whole extruder system (except for the extruder motor) with a metal Creality system.
* Performed various cold pulls.
* Replaced the nozzle.
* Upped the extruding temperature from 195 °C to 205 °C.
* Checked that there's the correct distance between the bed and the nozzle.
* Yelled at the printer.
* Asked for advice to my cats.
None of the above worked, and my cats looked funny at me. Print settings as below:
* Filament diameter in the slicer 1.75mm (yes I've checked).
* Temperature: 195 °C, upped to 205 °C.
* Print speed: from 20 mm/s for the first layers to 50 mm/s for the infill.
I've also reverted back to the old PTFE tubing as I noticed that the Capricorn was giving too much resistance to the filament. Nope, still skipping.
I've noticed that the extruder gear grips quite firmly onto the filament, so much so that when it starts slipping it actually eats away the filament until it breaks. It's almost like there's a clog somewhere but the tubing is clear, the hot end is clear (I've cleared it and checked multiple times), and the nozzle is brand new.
What else can I try? Have I missed something? Apart from the changes listed above (carried out after the extruder started skipping), the printer is absolutely stock, firmware and everything.
**UPDATE:** I've changed the factory hot end bloc with a brand new one, changed PTFE tubing one again, making sure it's as close as possible to the nozzle (unscrew nozzle 1/2 turn, fit PTFE, screw nozzle in) but it didn't change anything at all.
The extruder still skips steps as it can't push the filament out of the nozzle. Pushing it manually feels nice and smooth until it hits the nozzle, where I can feel too much resistance.
**UPDATE 2:** I've modifed the following parameters on the EEPROM to limit the filament flow:
```
M203 Z5.00 E25.00
M201 E1000
```
I've also crancked the temperature up to 220°C but it made no difference whatsoever. What I've noticed is that, after cleaning hot end and tubing, it starts skipping after 1 hour of printing, every single time without fail.
**UPDATE 3:** I've checked the input voltage from the PSU and it's 24V; the Vref for the extruder is 0.744V, so everything looks as expected.
**UPDATE 4:** The extruder idler pulley has a compression washer to hold it in place without impeding idle spinning; it is usually mounted in the order idler pulley, compression washer and bolt. I've noticed that the pulley wasn't spinning freely this way, so I inverted the order to compression washer, idler pulley and bolt. The bolt head is small enough not to stop the pulley from spinning.
I've also increased the pressure the spring arm excise on the idler pulley, so that the toothed pulley grips more firmly on the filament.
This way I've managed to improve things although not solve them. It's been printing for the last 3 and a half hour without skipping but it's not a solution, as the toothed gear is chewing too aggressively on the filament. In just one hour a good deposit of PLA shavings has formed on the extruder, and I had to blow it away, and this never happened before this all started.
# Answer
> 1 votes
So, after some day of yelling and disassembling, I figured out what was the issue. As many were suggesting, I indeed had an issue with the tubing lifting from the nozzle. it was lifting, so PLA was slowly infiltrating where it wasn't supposed to be to the point it created a blockage, resulting in skipping.
However, no amount of cleaning and reseating the tubing got rid of it. i've also changed, again, nozzle, tubing and pneumatic fittings to higher quality ones to no avail.
I got absolutely fed up and bought a direct drive conversion kit. One of the cheap ones, reusing most of the stock hardware, including stock extruder and gears. The idea, for me, behind it was that the mass of the extruder, and the much shorter length of tubing, meant that the tubing had no space to move around and let the PLA out.
It looks like it's working so far, I'm 6 hours in on a 10 hours print with no skipping at all. I also managed to ease the pressure that the extruder arm excise on the filament, so it's not being chewed anymore and I'm not seeing any PLA shavings so far.
# Answer
> 3 votes
In case anyone else also runs into this problem and has tried everything above, here is how you fix it for good.
While the direct drive extruder might work, it may seem odd to some that the system that previously worked fine now doesn't and needs a complete rebuild.
The problem is caused by a faulty cooling fan for the heat sink. Replace the AXIAL fan on the hotend. That is not the radial fan that is used to cool the print.
The devious thing about this problem is that the symptoms occur seemingly randomly which is caused by the rather slow heat transfer in the heat sink. At some point during the print a critical temperature is reached which deforms/lengthens the heat sink and opens up gaps in the path of the filament. Those gaps cause the filament to get stuck.
The other devious thing is that the cooling fan appears to be working alright but is not. I assume the rotational speed is lower than would be necessary but that can not be verified with the means currently at my disposal.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I had the exact same issue and then suddenly it went away.
The only thing I had changed was my Z-offset. I moved it away from the plate by roughly 0.1 mm. To confirm it was the reason I set it back closer to the plate and the problem came back. I think When the nozzle is too close to the plate the plastic cannot freely flow out and hence the pressure develops at the feeder and it skips. This worked for me, everything is stock and no changes to the feeder settings or anything else.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Since you've said you can feel a problem at the nozzle pushing it through manually, and since you say it goes away for a while after cleaning, you probably have somewhere that molten filament is getting into that it's not supposed to, then solidifying and jamming. Check that the cooling fan for the heatsink on the coldend is working, and that the PTFE tube is properly installed all the way through the heat break and butted up against the nozzle with no gaps or irregularities, and that the pressure fitting is holding it firmly and not allowing it to back out. If you can't find anything wrong, it's possible that something is just defective/damaged inside the hotend assembly.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Lot's of factors can cause this behaviour. Firstly check there are no knots in the reel - that can lead to the reel locking up. Second check the PLA temperature and if dual wall (a lot of material being put out) check that the print head is not knocking (running over the top of) excess material due to oozing. I found that after swapping out the print head HE and extruder for new, that the root cause was that I had oozing and was not using the nozzle fan. This led to the head bumping over lumps in longitudinal runs (you could hear a thud), which led to the head getting gradually backed up and the reservoir in the head back-filling with hot PLA. This then created back-pressure into the Bowden tube and then up to the extruder, which is trying to push material into an already full reservoir (head + Bowden). And.. that leads to the cog wheel in the extruder fighting against the pent up flow in the HE. The solution was to put the fan on and that stopped the ooze blobs. Because I had elected to print a fairly heavy object, the wall count was causing an excess build up and my extra-prime setting, although good for thin wall printing, together with the 6mm retract, wasn't right for thick-wall printing. So I could have turned down the extra-prime a bit, but the nozzle fan was the best and easiest option. You have to think about the whole material flow process and how the system is wired: flow-wise. It's a fancy glue gun when you think about it. So you have to be mindful of all of the parameters that can affect material flow.
Having replaced the HE was actually a good idea, as I can now easily prime the head just by pushing material through by hand and feeling the flow. If you are having to push really hard, that means there is a blockage: either the head, or in the tubing or reservoir. Every two months you should maintain the printer and make sure that the head is running clear. The Bowden can also start to restrict in the head where the cleat locks onto the tubing. Heat, plus continual flexing leads to the tube starting to kink. If you are getting flakes at the extruder gear mechanism, then you have a Bowden tube or HE issue. Pushing the PLA by hand will tell you that. After a new HE is put in, you can feel the difference. A Creality 3D Pro head assembly is a few quid. I would suggest keeping a spare set of parts for maintenance work on-hand.
Flakes at the extruder could also be a sure sign of water ingress in the PLA. Look for small warts or bubbles in the print. If so, put the reel in an oven at at 60 °C for about 10-15 minutes. Then let cool off. Ideally you need a dry room to store reels, or a proper bucket with a drying agent inside. In the summer as heat and humidity rises, you'll notice that there's more absorption of water. If your printer is in the same room as a washing machine/dryer, you're asking for trouble. Ideally you need a dry cool space. Or just print a huge batch off and get through the reel quickly...
# Answer
> 0 votes
I my case helps reducing printing speed, from 100% to 80%. Looks like the filament is cooling noozle to fast. In some large prints at the begining (on first layers) I'm reducing speed to 60%. This looks like the background temperature is not the same in the center and at the borders.
# Answer
> 0 votes
i've expirenced this a few times and just using my expirence from machining i narrowed it down to a few factors that changing fixed. #1 hot end temp, #2 axis speed, #3 filament feed rate. by playing with these settings i tend to find a happy medium with what im printing. it takes running a few set up pieces but with trial and error you can find a working point for your machine vs recommended settings. no two printers are ever the same just like no two CNC centers are ever the same. the jamming of the extruder usually is feeding too much material into the unit for its temp or it gettinng clogged at points by a bad bed level. If prints still come out ok, its pushing too much in IMO.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, hotend
---
|
thread-5145
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5145
|
Why is my 3D printer over extruding when I have set the flow rate very low?
|
2017-12-18T19:54:47.410
|
# Question
Title: Why is my 3D printer over extruding when I have set the flow rate very low?
I am using Cura to slice my prints, and despite turning the flow rate to the minimum value of 5%, my prints are still hugely over-extruding.
I have calibrated the extruder stepper perfectly, using Pronterface, so I do not understand why this is occurring. I have also timed how long it took to extrude a certain length and compared it to the length of time it was meant to extrude and it was exactly the same. Therefore, I have concluded it is not a problem with the calibration of the stepper.
So, I think there is a problem with the settings on Cura. Originally, I had the flow rate at 100% and this was really, really terrible. Then I turned it down as far as possible and the print got better but there was still over-extrusion. I can't down it down any further.
I can not figure out what the problem could possibly be and as you would imagine it is very, very frustrating.
Here is the print profile:
So the printer is not of any model, as it is a homemade CD drive 3D printer. It shares many similarities with the Curiosity3D printer, so if you want more information on how it works, then their website will be of much value.
The extruder is a Bowden-style one. It uses a cheap E3D hotend and a RepRap extruder kit as the motor.
Here are the Machine settings:
This is a photo of two failed prints. On the left is a G and on the right is a heart.
This is what it was the G was meant to look like:
So here is my `configuration.h` file which I previously modified for my 3D printer. The filament I use is "Robox PLA SmartReel Cornflower Blue".
# Answer
I fixed this issue a while back but I realised others might see this. I’m not exactly sure what fixed it though. I was meddling with the ee-prom when suddenly it started working again. I suspect somehow a different steps per mm value was stored on the ee-prom so no matter what I did to change it (in the firmware) it made no difference. Then I either changed the settings in the ee-prom or disable it. I can’t really remember.
When it started working it looked like nothing was extruding because 5% extrude rate really is very low!
> 1 votes
# Answer
First of all: Can you tell us, what kind of printer do you use and which material? Please give us some pictures of some prints as well.. Also the type of the Extruder setup is relevant. Is it a Bowden or Direct Driven extruder?
For an FDM machine like the Prusa styled printers with PLA:
* Flow of 5 % is totally wrong, normally PLA should be run between 90 % and 105 % flawlessly. The problem is elsewhere but not with the Flow settings, nor the Temp is the faulty one.
+ Temp between 185 °C and 210 °C should be fine for most PLAs
+ Did you set up your printer correct in Cura (Preferences -\> Printers -\> Machine Settings)? Material Diameter, Nozzle size and G-Code flavour are correct?
If you give us some more information, I will be glad to get this solved.
> 4 votes
# Answer
The fact that your printer is a scratch build using low-power stepper motors would tend to indicate that the problems lie in your hardware and/or firmware. It is very difficult to provide advice for such printers, simply because most 3D printer owners will have zero experience with them.
Possible candidates for the causes of your problem are fairly obvious:
* Check that the stepper motors are not skipping, and that you have the correct number of steps per millimetre.
* Check that your extruder is not skipping, and has the correct number of steps per millimetre.
* Check that your firmware is matching filament flow with extruder speeds correctly.
* Check that your firmware is configured correctly. How you do this for a scratch build is largely down to you.
One thing that I would advise is that you reduce the jerk and acceleration values, since they look to be far too high.
You have done well to get so far with such a build, but you may have to ask yourself if there is anything to be gained in continuing with your project.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I guess that either you have the hotend too far away from the first layer (so looks like underextrusion), then wrong layer height / wrong z-configuration so the layers are too small, making plastic pile up (seems like over extrusion). Eventually if the Z-Driver skips steps, it could look the same (printer trying to print the same layer several times).
There is also some skipping in the drivers, as your layers are not correctly on top of each other, check if you can 'up' the amperage in the drivers, or slow everything down (speed, acceleration & jerk) til it works without skipping.
My best bet is that you should 1) first make your drivers stop skipping, 2) then carefully calibrate your machine using the configuration.h (line 527) so that x,y,z,e are all roughly okay at least.
Then start printing :-)
On a side note, you can also activate the EEPROM and store the new values with GCode, this is mostly a 'convenient' thing because you don't need to recompile and flash your board at every change, so maybe do that later when everything starts to work out OK.
HTH
> 3 votes
# Answer
I've been building 3D printers for a few years and working in the computer science field for over 2 decades. Here's a simple trick I use for adjusting your extruder steps.
1. Tweak your flow rate till it's where it should be. Then mark down the percentage it's at.
2. Go into your configuration file and use that percentage to adjust the number of steps. So if $x$ is the number of steps and our flowrate is at 40 % to be extruding normal then:
$x * 0.4 =$ new step count
3. Save the file and compile.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, diy-3d-printer, extrusion
---
|
thread-19367
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19367
|
How do I check the belts on my Ender 3?
|
2022-05-10T15:31:32.807
|
# Question
Title: How do I check the belts on my Ender 3?
I need to check the belts on my Ender 3 to confirm they are properly set up, functioning, and undamaged. How do I go about doing this?
# Answer
> 0 votes
Loosen the screws holding the far right hand side of the belt cog in place on the gantry, tighten the belt by moving the cog outwards until the belt looks horizontal, tighten the screws back up and test. It's a pretty intuitive procedure.
To see if the belt is OK, just visually inspect it. It's just a belt, if it has splits or something then it has issues.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, maintenance
---
|
thread-19338
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19338
|
Effects of bad power supply on temperature/flow?
|
2022-05-04T17:00:05.270
|
# Question
Title: Effects of bad power supply on temperature/flow?
I've been trying to trace down a mysterious reduction in the flow I can achieve. Since recording this flow test video where I successfully achieved a nominal 30 mm³/s (almost surely with underextrusion, but with no skipping or warping), something happened whereby I'm no longer able to reproduce it.
Shortly after that was recorded, I discovered a burnt-out XT60 connector between the power supply and printer, and replaced it. That made a lot of voltage sag issues (fans slowing down when heaters turned on, etc.) go away, and I'm wondering how it might affect temperature measurement and indirectly flow.
Could the thermistor voltage have been affected by undervoltage/limited current availability from the power supply, and if so, how would that manifest? Hotend (including thermistor) is stock Ender 3. The controller board is SKR E3 Mini V2. Naively, I would expect that if there was actually reduced voltage on the (3.3V?) line feeding into the thermistor, that would appear as higher resistance, and thus lower temperature, driving the controller to heat it well above the requeste temperature, but I'm not sure if that plausibly could have happened.
# Answer
> 1 votes
As worked out by dandavis in the comments, this is not plausible:
> thermistors likely use 3.3v or 5v signaling. It would take a lot of sag for those rails to drop below set voltage if fed 12v or 24v; all they need is a volt or two above output. As far as the effect of a sag on the 3.3/5v line, it's impossible to say universally because the thermistor could be on either side of the voltage divider, so it could be too high or too low, or it could use a current source unaffected until the rail dropped to \<1v. It could even be a thermocouple instead, so the effect would be how the gain amp responds to sag or the MCU glitches...
>
> I found a schematic and it's on the gnd side of the divider. So that's half the equation solved...
>
> \[The EPCOS 100K B57560G104F\] is an NTC, so it would appear as warmer. That said, I highly doubt your 3.3v "rail" sags, and if it does, the whole controller would freeze up and nothing would operate
It turns out the PTFE in the heatbreak was badly burnt out, and friction from this may account for at least a large part of the loss of flow (I've been able to get back some but not all). But I still have not fully explained or solved the problem. In any case, the power supply issue does not seem relevant, answering this question as stated.
---
Tags: thermistor, power-supply
---
|
thread-19393
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19393
|
Under-extrusion halfway into print - Dremel 3D45 -PETG
|
2022-05-17T18:30:22.403
|
# Question
Title: Under-extrusion halfway into print - Dremel 3D45 -PETG
## **NEW UPDATE BELOW**
---
I am having trouble finding the cause for this under-extrusion at start/end of each layer. Something changes halfway into the print creating a visible seam at some specific layer height.
This also creates dimensional inaccuracy making my parts unusable.
The first layers are just fine - roundness deviation around 0.03 mm!
**Any ideas on which settings I should look into?**
**Settings**
Printer: Dremel 3D45 (newest firmware)
Slicer: Dremel DigiLab (also tried Cura Ultimaker 5.0)
Filament: PET-G
Printing Temperature: 250 °C
Initial Temperature: 240 °C
Final Temperature: 235 °C
Flow: 105 %
Retraction Distance: 1 mm (tried 3 - 1 mm)
Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s (tried 60 - 20 mm/s)
Prime Amount: 0.6 mm³ (tried 0 - 0.6) Retraction Minimum Travel: 0 Retract at Layer Change: Off
Maximum Retraction Count: 90 (could this be a problem?)
Minimun Extrusion Distance Window: 1 mm
Print Speed: 35 mm/s
Wall Sprint Speed: 30 mm/s
Combing Mode: All
Fan Speed: 50 %
Seam: Shortest
---
## **Update 18/05**
Fixed the seam by setting the alignment to random and changing retraction settings.
Remaining problem is the inaccuracy right next to the Y axis (see marked area on the pictures). Besides a hardware issue I cant think about any slicer setting which would adress this deviation.
Diameter X: 30.02 mm
Diameter Y: 30.04 mm
Diameter Marked: 29.90 mm
# Answer
> 3 votes
# That's not under extrusion
That is the seam, and technically it is over extruding around it. You will find that if you turn the item, you have such a spot on every layer, actually with an inner and outer perimeter, you'll have two visible seams. The seam is where the extrusion line meets itself, and thus the extrusion has to stop.
# Answer
> 2 votes
"Prime Amount" sounds like "extra prime on unretract", which *necessarily* deposits a blob of extra material at the location of unretract, including the Z seam. Setting this to zero should help reduce the problem. This setting is a hack to compensate for material loss to oozing during travel, but if you have oozing you should just fix that instead rather than chucking out a blob to make up for it.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, underextrusion, retraction, dimensional-accuracy, dremel-3d45
---
|
thread-19390
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19390
|
Browsing and printing print files (G-code) stored in OctoPrint from printer's screen
|
2022-05-17T08:14:10.560
|
# Question
Title: Browsing and printing print files (G-code) stored in OctoPrint from printer's screen
I'm using an Ender 3 v2 with Jyers firmware.
I'm looking for a firmware / OctoPrint plugin which allows browsing G-codes stored in my OctoPrint storage and starting them directly from my printer's screen like it's stored on SD card. I would like to have all advantages that OctoPrint provides but not need to use my computer/smartphone to start printing.
Is there any way to do this?
# Answer
Accessing the print files stored on OctoPrint managed locations other than the SD card (i.e. where OctoPrint is installed; RPi or laptop, etc.) is not possible.
The other way around is possible, you can access SD stored codes from OctoPrint. This is possible because the there are M-codes in place to list the files on the SD-card (M20: List SD card) or handle files to load and start them.
To access files from the printer UI to an external storage space would require many information on where it can get the files, through which connection; there are no M-codes in place to do that. Basically you are either printing from OctoPrint or from the printer. You state that: `I would like to have all advantages that OctoPrint provides but not need to use my computer/smartphone to start printing`, how would that be possible if the printer itself initiates the print? OctoPrint is a print manager, it sends your G-code line by line to the printer, you are requesting to start a print from the print manager through a command on the printer itself. If you want OctoPrint managed prints to benefit from the plug-ins, you need to start the print using your phone or a browser. Personally, I never look or use the printer display on my OctoPrint managed printers, you don't need the display if OctoPrint is able to present all the data to you through a browser.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, octoprint, jyers
---
|
thread-19397
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19397
|
Filament based printing what operator behaviors contribute to an increased need to relevel a bed?
|
2022-05-18T09:26:52.453
|
# Question
Title: Filament based printing what operator behaviors contribute to an increased need to relevel a bed?
When using a filament based printer, what operator behaviors increase the frequency at which a bed must be relevelled between prints?
# Answer
> 4 votes
# Mechanical interaction
## Operator induced regular actions
When an operator reaches into the machine and operates something on the bed, this can induce errors that slowly accumulate. The most typical operation would be to remove something from the printbed, cleaning the printbed or swapping the printbed wholesale all can result in a slow but steady unleveling.
Regular leveling can counteract this. With good training, you might vet away with once in a dozen or less.
## Maintenance of/work on the printhead
During maintenance such as swapping nozzles, checking connections and cleaning the printhead, there is a very high chance that the printbed is touched due to the usually very cramped area one has to work in. For example, it is near impossible not to touch the printed when swapping nozzles on my Ender3, if I want to use my torque screwdriver. This is true even with the Z-Axis at the highest position, due to the dimensions of my torque screwdriver.
By virtue of the work on the printhead, the 0-level is usually thrown off anyway, and as such a relevel is **always** in order after any printhead maintenance more invasive than cleaning the fan ducts.
Avoiding nozzle swaps unless necessary can reduce the workload - it might be cheaper in the long term to have two machines with different setups than one machine where you swap the nozzle for each print - unless you charge for the accompanying work on the setup change.
## Operator induced irregular actions
There are cases where the operator did not plan to operate in the area of the printbed but actually might impact it by reckless or accidental action. In other words: accidents happen, tools drop onto the printbed and hands end there if an operator stumbles.
While releveling might not be *necessary* after all such accidental contacts, occasionally checking it and fixing it is good practice.
## Mechanical failure
The way you test and maintain your Z-level is paramount in how often you need to validate the Z-level. If your springs are too strong and push the leveling knobs off on their own or your Z-sensor is mounted only weakly, then these create problems on their own.
Note that even in normal operation, the oscillation of the printer will make any bolt under stress that is not glued in place or jammed in tight loosen a little over time. This does include the bed leveling knobs.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The only ones I have found are.
Manually putting pressure on the bed when removing prints.
Removing the bed covering, eg a glass plate
Damaging the bed in some way. For example my bed has high spots on it (always has). This means that if I remove the glass plate I use and put it back, it sits slightly different. If I orient the glass a different way from prior it always needs levelling.
Changing filament types.
Changing cover types eg magnetic and glass are different thicknesses.
Changing first layer needs. Sometimes I need the first layer squished a bit depending what I'm doing.
Lastly on my Ender 3 Pro if the z-axis switch isn't screwed in tight enough it can slip down a fraction.
---
Tags: bed-leveling, fdm
---
|
thread-19405
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19405
|
Any way to print all the layers of a 3D (STL)?
|
2022-05-20T12:39:25.517
|
# Question
Title: Any way to print all the layers of a 3D (STL)?
I'm looking for a way to slice up a 3D model and then get the profiles of each individual layer. I need to 2D print the different layers (with the layer height that I define) for a Styrofoam craft.
Thank you very much!
# Answer
I'm a fan of OpenSCAD and have used the method suggested in the first answer. For non-OpenSCAD users, another option exists, which I've also used.
PrusaSlicer is a free 3D printer slicing program. One can configure layer heights as desired for the material thickness, even though it's not likely one will find a printer with such values, except perhaps concrete 3D printers!
Once configured and sliced, the exported file (configured for a Prusa SL1 printer) is renamed to .ZIP and the files within extracted. The files of note are going to be PNG format, one file per layer.
The settings within the slicer software have to be "adjusted" for your creation.
In Print Settings tab, change the layer height to match your material thickness. Also in the Print Settings tab, turn off supports and turn off pad (left column selections).
In Material Settings tab, change the Initial layer height to match your overall layer thickness. Unchanged, it remains the default 0.05 mm, unlikely to match your building material.
On the Printer Settings tab, change the bed shape to match your objective plus a bit of spacing around the item. Change the max height appropriately.
Set the Display Width parameters to match your output. Excessively large values will result in small model segments in a large blank area. Set pixel values to desired resolution of the output image file. For example, 200 is equivalent to a typical inkjet printer resolution.
I performed all of the above steps for a simple cube, exported the file to the default .SL1 extension, renamed it to .ZIP and extracted to a folder. The folder contained a number of support files for the MSLA printer, but also a full list of the layer .PNG files. Depending on your system settings, you may be able to change the extension in the Save dialog to .ZIP.
If PNG is not a suitable format, one can convert them to SVG using Inkscape bitmap trace or similar software.
I recommend to create a model with some form of registration incorporated to the design. One can create and subtract a pair of cylinders, for example, that travels through each layer, allowing insertion of a dowel to more easily stack the slices for assembly.
One can add primitives within the slicer, but they fall to the bed and also cannot be subtracted, at least so far as my limited research has shown. I've used Fusion 360 and Meshmixer to create such modifications.
Another aspect of the slicer is the ability to hollow the model, which would provide for some interesting constructions as well as possibly easier alignment.
This should be a .GIF animation of the results of my testing on Astronaut Phil A Ment, 1 millimeter layer height:
stltopng conversion of original STL file of Phil:
> 2 votes
# Answer
With OpenSCAD, you can `import` the STL file and apply `projection` with `cut=true` at successive Z-axis `translate` operations, and write out the result as SVG. This can all be automated from the command line to product a series of SVG files for your layers to "2D print".
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, stl
---
|
thread-19409
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19409
|
What's causing this lack of layer adhesion after a crash?
|
2022-05-21T10:35:36.947
|
# Question
Title: What's causing this lack of layer adhesion after a crash?
I recently had a print failure/crash, where the print stuck to the nozzle and forced molten filament back into the print head, fans, and heater block.
I changed the nozzle for a new 0.4mm same as existing. I shortened the bowden tube by ~8mm to remove some crispiness, and the push-lock connector on top of the print head, which was full of solidified PLA.
The hotend was scraped clean of PLA, and the wiring was inspected. The silicon sock was unhappy but I managed to get it to stay in place.
The part-cooling fan duct was deformed, but I have reshaped it as well as I could. The part-cooling air is probably slightly less than it was.
I'm printing some Gridfinity bins, and the base just isn't filling in completely and there is also more stringiness.
The sides are not joining up at all, and are just a series of separate strands. They do merge somewhat at the corners.
My printer worked much better before the crash - what do I have to focus on to improve this?
All print jobs since the reassembly are lower in quality, with one in three showing these large "wire bundles" look but all of them are not as good as before-prints.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Judging from the picture, you have serious inconsistent/under extrusion, not just on the lines that aren't adhering but everywhere, and this is almost surely the source of your problems:
> I shortened the bowden tube by ~8mm to remove some crispiness, and the push-lock connector on top of the print head, which was full of solidified PLA.
Ability to correctly extrude material is highly dependent on having an unconstrained path for the filament from the extruder gear to the melt zone. Cutting the hotend side of the bowden tube, or even just removing it from the hotend and reinstalling it, is very error-prone even if you're experienced with doing it. Here are some of the things that can go wrong:
* End of tube not cut square (perpendicular): There will be a gap between the tube and the nozzle mating surface on one side, allowing material to squeeze into the gap and jam.
* Tube not tensioned against nozzle: Again, material can squeeze into a gap and jam.
* Tube overly tensioned against nozzle: Tube will compress, reducing the inner diameter so that the filament has a lot more friction going through it. Especially at the end, it may bend inwards and make a lip that's very hard to pass and that interferes with retraction.
Here's the procedure I recommend:
1. Use a miter-box type tool to hold the PTFE tube for cutting clean perpendicular cut with a razor blade. There are printable tools for this but you may need to find something else if your printer isn't working well enough to print one.
2. Carefully use a razor blade or x-acto knife to chamfer the inner and outer surfaces at the end of the tube just slightly so it can't get a lip from compression against the nozzle. The amount of chamfer should be *very slight*, maybe 0.25 mm at most. This probably isn't strictly necessary but helps make sure you have more margin for error. I've also seen folks do this with an appropriate drill bit, but I don't know how to do it that way. Make sure any debris is cleaned up when you're done so bits of PTFE don't clog the nozzle.
3. Thread the tube fitting all the way into the heatsink, then back it off by about 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn (0.25 to 0.33 mm) and press the tube in until it hits the nozzle. Then, tighten it the rest of the way to compress the tube against the nozzle by the distance you backed it out.
Another option if you already want to do this is switching to an all-metal hotend (can be done just by replacing the heat break, not the whole hotend), but that comes with its own set of gotchas so I wouldn't recommend it unless you have other reasons to want one already.
# Answer
> 1 votes
# SOLVED!
Turns out I hadn't pushed the bowden tube completely home into the hotend on the print head. So there was a space where molten plastic was spreading out, interfering with both extrusion and retraction.
I've flipped the bowden tube end-for-end now, and my test job is well-underway.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, stringing, gridfinity
---
|
thread-19414
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19414
|
Adjustable Angle for a 1.5 inch OLED screen
|
2022-05-21T23:13:51.640
|
# Question
Title: Adjustable Angle for a 1.5 inch OLED screen
I have a 1.5 inch screen, and I would like to create an adjustable angle plate for the screen, similar to Game boy advanced (shown below)
Does anyone know how the mechanism works? By any chance, is there an adjustable connector that I can put on a 3D printed part to make an adjustable angle plate?
# Answer
You'll need to design a hinge in two parts, probably with a third and fourth part as a cover.
The unit holds position by friction, so it will get sloppier with use as the plastic wears, or you may want to use a metal shaft and bushings. This will also be affected by the mass of the screen and the torque onto the hinge.
From your image, you can clearly see which hoops in the hinge are part of the top and which are coming up from the bottom.
The ribbon cable will pass between the lower and upper in the middle where the two wide hoops are, and not through the ends which will provide the bulk of the support.
---
If you want to make a case exactly like this, then consider buying a shell instead. The ifixit step-by-step instructions at https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+Game+Boy+Advance+SP++Shell+Replacement/137582 are clear and helpful for a complete organ-transplant.
The hinge/clutch mechanism used in these is a marvel, you're unlikely to be able to print one without a lot of trial & error, and looks like:
From https://console5.com/store/game-boy-advance-sp-hinge-replacement-case-hinge.html
However people have designed GBA cases - search your favourite STL websites for relevant links. You may be able to find a case someone else has already designed and done debug.
Potentially useful tool https://3dmixers.com/m/275635-gba-sp-hinge-removal-tool-with-handle
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design
---
|
thread-937
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/937
|
Why are the STL files for the Ultrascope telescope at 45 degree angle?
|
2016-04-05T16:25:04.363
|
# Question
Title: Why are the STL files for the Ultrascope telescope at 45 degree angle?
I began printing the parts for the Ultrascope DIY telescope designed by the Open Space Agency. See http://www.openspaceagency.com/ultrascope.
All of the STL files for the 3D printable parts are canted 45 degrees. Brackets, tubes, everything I have seen so far. Is there a reason for this? I printed one part last night and simply rotated the part so it would lay flat because I didn't want to deal with supports. I am relatively new to 3D printing -- Am I missing something I should know? Is this a thing?
# Answer
> 6 votes
The orientation of the part in the STL file depends on the Software that creates the file. I had a software that would export the parts standing upright instead of laying flat. Depending on the CAD software it can be beneficial for the creator of the model to create in in a different orientation as the one you want to use for printing. Also not all CAD Engineers know (or care) about the best orientation for printing a part.
So my guess is that this is an issue of file export/ STL file creation.
It is totally normal to rotate the parts into a position that is best for printing.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Layer lines are failure lines.
Sometimes I choose to print a part in a weird or sub-optimal orientation just to minimise the load across layer lines when in use.
That may mean more support material and longer print time, but a completed part that fails is no use at all.
---
Tags: 3d-design
---
|
thread-19411
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19411
|
Cura variables and initial G-code commands
|
2022-05-21T16:21:34.313
|
# Question
Title: Cura variables and initial G-code commands
Ender 3 Pro, PLA, temps 200 °C and 60 °C.
I want to not heat the nozzle until after Auto Bed Leveling (CR Touch) is complete. I can do that in the start G-code, but by then, Cura has already heated the nozzle to the temp specified under material and filament starts oozing out during bed leveling. I'd rather set a variable to that value and call it with `M104` when I'm ready.
This is the start of Cura's g-code:
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:2888
;Filament used: 1.96332m
;Layer height: 0.2
;MINX:93.266
;MINY:10.195
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:126.734
;MAXY:210.658
;MAXZ:4.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.13.1
M140 S60
M105
M190 S60
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto Bed Level (CR Touch)
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
...
```
The lines right after "Generated with Cura\_SteamEngine" are the ones I'd like to change but I can't find them in the Cura app. I know that 60 °C and 200 °C are the temps defined for bed and nozzle. Cura inserts them as constants for the `M140` and `M104` commands. I'd like Cura to set variables to those values (like `{bed_temp} = 60`) so I can refer to that variable when I insert the `M140` command in my Custom Start G-code. Can that be done?
A related question was asked a few years ago and part of the start code example then was:
```
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
```
The variable `{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}` was already set but I don't know where or how that was done.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I've sorted this out. *IF* I include my own heating commands in my start G-Code, Cura knows to NOT add its own heating commands at the start of the G-Code file.
The variables I was referring to have dedicated names. `material_print_temperature_layer_0` is the printing (extruder/nozzle) temp set under Material in Cura. `material_bed_temperature_layer_0` is the build plate temp set under Material in Cura.
Cura substitutes the values of those variables for the variable names in the G-code file.
So to avoid filament ooze during auto bed leveling, I set the nozzle temp to 150 °C (hot, but lower than the defined printing temp and low enough to avoid ooze). I set the bed temp to its defined temp.
Then I auto-level the bed.
Then I heat the nozzle up to its defined printing temp and start the print job.
This is my Start G-code:
```
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M104 S150 ; Set Extruder temperature for bed leveling
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M109 S150 ; Wait for Extruder temperature for bed leveling
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
G29 ; Auto Bed Level (CR Touch)
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
```
And this is how Cura writes the G-code file:
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:2888
;Filament used: 1.96332m
;Layer height: 0.2
;MINX:93.266
;MINY:10.195
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:126.734
;MAXY:210.658
;MAXZ:4.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.13.1
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M104 S150 ; Set Extruder temperature for bed leveling
M140 S60 ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M109 S150 ; Wait for Extruder temperature for bed leveling
M190 S60 ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
G29 ; Auto Bed Level (CR Touch)
M104 S200 ; Set Extruder temperature
M109 S200 ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
G92 E0
...
```
I hope this helps someone with a similar question.
Cheers.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Go to the `Settings` -\> `Printers` menu from the top menu,
select your active printer (or `Activate` it) and manage your printer trough `Machine Settings`.
It will open the printer settings,
there you are able to change the lines you want in the `Start G-code` section.
Note the default Start G-code doesn't include heating up the bed and core, you need to add these after the `G29` in your case. Personally I use heat up bed and continue (`M140`), than heat up core and wait till temperature is reached (`M109`), then heat up and wait until bed temperature is reached (`M190`).
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, g-code
---
|
thread-19421
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19421
|
Creality CR-6 SE heatblock replacement
|
2022-05-23T10:51:22.740
|
# Question
Title: Creality CR-6 SE heatblock replacement
Recently I broke the threads inside the heatblock of my CR-6 SE by tightening the nozzle too much (it seemed not deep enough). No problem - bought a new hotend extruder kit for around 35 euros.
I put everything back together and it worked for some time. But then the real problem started - PLA is squeezing out of the heatblock below (probably through the threads of the nozzle) and above (on the metal tube). I'm pretty sure that the PTFE tube was deep enough in the hotend and the nozzle was placed correctly.
That's especially bad as it clogs the screws fixing the thermal sensor and heating element in position as well as the ones connecting the heatblock to the heatsink (red) (the 4 screw holes around the nozzle on picture 2).
I managed to remove the screws of the thermal sensor and heating element, but I'm unable to remove the elements themself from the latest heatblock. I'm also unable to remove the metal tube (throat?) screwed into the heatblocks of the old and the current one, as I have nothing to grap to.
I already have original Creality replacement blocks, but no idea how to continue.
**Questions**
1. Is there a chance to remove the metal tubes?
2. Are there other ideas how to resolve the problem without buying a new hotend-kit?
Any help is appreciated!
# Answer
It appears that you tightened the nozzle up against the heater block. You want the nozzle to tighten and form a seal with the heat break. Otherwise material with seep between the heater block and heat break. Thus, material comes out the top of the heater block. You want to tighten the nozzle against the heat break at your highest operating temperature of the hot end. The following is the full procedure. Once you have plastic material in the threads, you will need to heat up the heater block to remove or install threaded parts in the heater block.
How to replace the nozzle in my hotend assembly?
> 1 votes
---
Tags: hotend, replacement-parts, creality-cr-6
---
|
thread-19426
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19426
|
Wall thickness and line count in Cura, are they redundant, or do they multiply?
|
2022-05-24T02:21:27.590
|
# Question
Title: Wall thickness and line count in Cura, are they redundant, or do they multiply?
I'm experimenting with larger nozzles and large objects. I thought I had left the default wall count at 3 and that's why the print was turning out much sturdier and much heavier than a smaller nozzle, even though it took 1/3 - 1/2 as long to print it.
Well, I have a 1 mm nozzle, `wall thickness` set to 2 mm, and `wall line count` at 2. I expected that `wall thickness` was to be multiplied by `wall line count` to arrive at the final wall width. However, I don't think that's the case, the two values seem to be interrelated and redundant. This forum post from a few years ago tries to say as much. I now think that `wall thickness` is extrusion width (`line width`?) multiplied by `wall line count`.
The problem that I saw that made me dig into this, is that the `wall thickness` is set to double the line width, leading me to believe that I'm getting 2 walls of double-width walls, which means 4 mm thick walls. I don't think it's doing that, but I may have confused myself in the process. Looking at the line view, I think the walls are 2 mm.
How are these two variables related?
This question is not a duplicate.
# Answer
> I expected that `Wall Thickness` was to be multiplied by `Wall Line Count` to arrive at the final wall width.
No, the `Wall Thickness` is the width of the complete wall, not of a single extrusion line, that is `Wall Line Width` which is a sub option of the `Line Width` property. Note that `Wall Line Width` itself is split up into `Outer Wall Line Width` and `Inner Wall(s) Line Width`
`Wall Thickness` is "`Line Width`" multiplied by the `Wall Line Count`
Note the `Wall Thickness` is calculated when you change the `Line Width`/`Wall Line Width` or greyed out, further more, when you set the wall width to a specified width, the amount of lines are calculated.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
---
|
thread-19429
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19429
|
Nozzle digs into material and extruder starts skipping after some layers
|
2022-05-24T13:36:41.733
|
# Question
Title: Nozzle digs into material and extruder starts skipping after some layers
So around a year ago I built a 3D printer very similar to a Creality CR10 and ever since I've built it, after some layers the nozzle appears to be digging into the print and the extruder starts skipping steps.
It has been driving me up the wall, and I've read and tried pretty much every suggestion I could find. I have disassembled and reassembled the printer multiple times, lubricated all moving parts, especially the Z lead screws, purchased a BLTouch, calibrated all axes and the extruder multiple times, and all to no avail.
I'm getting great bed adhesion and the dimensions are pretty much bang on. Up till the point where the nozzle starts digging into the print, the print quality is also great. I've tried slic3r and MatterControl slicers and Pronterface. I've tried adjusting a lot of settings as well.
I have attached some pictures of a recently failed print and my printer and any help would be greatly appreciated!
Material: PLA
Print temperature: 215 °C
Bed Temperature: 70 °C
Hot end: E3D V6
# Answer
This looks completely typical of a printer with a bowden tube using an ungeared Ender 3 style extruder with single flat extruder hob when you try to print at any significant speed. As soon as there's any resistance to pushing the material, the gear's grip on the filament will fail and it will slip instead of moving. Then, it starts grinding a single spot of the filament, ruining any chance that it might successfully continue extrusion.
The initial source of the resistance may be heat creep, which you should check for, or something wrong in the filament path through the hotend. It probably starts happening after a bunch of retractions leave you with a rough end backed out of the nozzle and hard to push through it again. Tuning the retraction length and speed *may help* with this. However, if the problem is what I think it is, the core issue is that the extruder is awful; a good extruder would grip the filament well enough to force it through even if there is some resistance, and the resistance would go away as soon as it starts melting and flowing.
Definitely replace the extruder. Even if you have other problems too, that extruder will be a continuous source of problems. In the mean time, you might try adjusting the spring tension to see if you can get it to work better.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: extruder, nozzle
---
|
thread-12097
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12097
|
Can you cure resin with sunlight through a window?
|
2020-02-28T16:12:25.070
|
# Question
Title: Can you cure resin with sunlight through a window?
If I set my prints on the window sill (indoors) will the sunlight still be able to cure the resin? The problem with setting them outside is the wind knocking them over.
# Answer
The glass will block most of the uv light; but not all. It will depend on the type of light that the resin is sensitive to; in order to determine if it will continue to cure behind a glass window in direct sunlight. Some resins also sensitive to blue light. You will need to look at the material data sheet for the resin to be able to know for sure. Be advised though, that the resin does not stop curing, and will continue to cure slowly over time, just sitting on the desk.
https://www.thoughtco.com/does-glass-block-uv-light-608316 From the link:
> Glass that is transparent to visible light absorbs nearly all UVB. This is the wavelength range that can cause a sunburn, so it's true you can't get a sunburn through glass. However, UVA is much closer to the visible spectrum than UVB. About 75% of UVA passes through ordinary glass. UVA leads to skin damage and genetic mutations that can lead to cancer. Glass does not protect you from skin damage from the sun. It affects indoor plants too. Have you ever taken an indoor plant outside and burned its leaves? This happens because the plant was unaccustomed to the higher levels of UVA found outside, compared with inside a sunny window.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Yes.
I frequently leave models made on a Saturn printer with Elegoo gray resin on a surface in the sun to slow cure them. If properly cleaned their finish is indistinguishable from models rapid cured in a UV chamber.
It should be noted that I only do this with small models that are Table top miniature scale. Large models with lots of shadows, overhands or complicated detailing may not cure evenly.
I usually do this if I have a lot of models to cure and am too lazy to keep cycling them through my cure station.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: sla, resin
---
|
thread-19428
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19428
|
Resin LCD print not printing first layers properly, resulting in a reduction of the height of the object
|
2022-05-24T09:33:41.747
|
# Question
Title: Resin LCD print not printing first layers properly, resulting in a reduction of the height of the object
Printer: Elegoo Mars 3 LCD Resin Printer
I have a similar problem to this question, First / bottom layers not printing? and this issue on Reddit, Elegoo Saturn Squishing Bottom Layers Together - Models Too Short.
I am trying to print an object that is a cylinder with an engraving on it (the cylinder is not very high though, - it looks like the cylinder shown in this question on SE.Blender, How can I engrave this Text on the side of this cylinder (without changing the style of the font)?):
The cylinder is about 3.6 mm high only. It has an engraving on the side of it.
I haven't printed with supports but directly on the built plate (similar to the rook model Elegoo gives). The problem is that the first layers are not printed properly (it cuts off the engraving). This results in a reduction in the height of the cylinder.
Any solutions for how the first layers could come out properly?
# Answer
This is a known issue with printing directly on the build plate. The first few layers have to be cured for much longer than the rest of the layers in order to ensure that the model adheres properly to the build plate. This causes the layers to be thinner but wider. Often resulting in a slight brim around your model (Called an Elephant's foot in some circles).
Normally you would use a skate or raft and supports, so the distortion wouldn't be to the model itself.
You could reduce the number of bottom layers in your slicer, and reduce the exposure time, which will give you much closer to your expected height, but it may require a lot of trial and error printing to find the right settings for your printer. I think that some people have made calculators to help with this, or you could try to find a torture calibration model to help you find your optimum settings.
Personally, as a person who make models for printing, I would recommend that you changed the dimensions of your model, rather than changing your printer settings.
I often make the parts of my models that are in contact with the base slightly thicker, but with a slight bevel to the edge to allow for expansion (Elephant foot) , then I simply sand down the extra after printing till the model is of the desired size.
Again, this is mostly a matter of trial and error.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, z-axis, resin
---
|
thread-19434
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19434
|
Is there printable optical-grade resin?
|
2022-05-25T13:52:39.873
|
# Question
Title: Is there printable optical-grade resin?
Are there SLA printable resins that can be printed with optical clarity and whose index of refraction make them potentially useful for optical applications? I would assume the surface may need polishing, and that's okay - I'm just asking whether the materials and process are otherwise suitable.
# Answer
> 1 votes
No, at least not at a consumer level. The layering created by the printing process would create imperfections, and clear resin frequently yellows if not cured properly and then protected form strong UV light. Resins that do not yellow tend to have a blue cast to them.
You would be better off using a commercial grade casting resin and a pressure chamber to remove bubbles. Even then it would be inferior to silicates for even basic lenses.
# Answer
> 0 votes
# Clear Resin isn't clear everywhere
Any light-curing resin has a specific bandwidth to which it is totally opaque just to be able to cure. This is typically a blue color, but at this and adjacent wavelength, the lens will not allow light to pass through it, no matter if you can manage to get imperfections down.
# Resins change color
Then there is the problem of resins changing coloration. Most cast resins become yellow, and some go blue, but in either case, they do absorb some spectrum to appear as this color.
---
Tags: print-material, resin, sla
---
|
thread-19440
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19440
|
Engraved text (on a cylinder). The printer wasnt able to display the font style correctly,
|
2022-05-25T22:54:57.157
|
# Question
Title: Engraved text (on a cylinder). The printer wasnt able to display the font style correctly,
Printer: Elegoo Mars 3 LCD Resin printer
The letter height is about 3 mm.
I engraved a word (text) on the side of a cylinder (which is about 14 mm in diameter and 4 mm in height). I am not sure about the exact depth of the engraving (but should be about 0.5 mm but that's not important).
The text is easily readable and, at first glance, appears to have come out perfectly. On second sight, however, the problem becomes obvious: The 3D printer didn't print the style of the font correctly (it's less **bold** than the font style chosen for the text and that's visible in Blender and Chitubox files).
Is that just what I have to accept or is there any way to improve on the result?
# Answer
You could try making the text in the 3D model more bold than you want it, then if the printer prints it less bold, it will come out with the desired boldness.
> 1 votes
# Answer
# Printers know not of Fonts
All the 3D printer knows are movement commands. The slicer is turning the model into movement commands. The design suit defines the model.
So if your slicer is not printing the model as you envision it, the problem is not with the printer, it is with the model. You should alter the surfaces in the model.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, elegoo-mars
---
|
thread-7610
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7610
|
Getting E1 Thermal Runaway errors, even after replacing the heating element on Tevo Tarantula
|
2018-12-10T01:20:00.720
|
# Question
Title: Getting E1 Thermal Runaway errors, even after replacing the heating element on Tevo Tarantula
Earlier today I successfully completed a small print (less than 1 hour) on our Tevo Tarantula. When it came time to print the next one, I started preheating for PLA and got an "E1 Thermal Runaway" error. I replaced the heating element with a backup and got no error on preheat.
With an estimated 5+ hrs printing time, the print got about 1 hour in before it quit with another "E1 Thermal Runaway" error. This is with a brand new heating element, the third in about as many months, and I don't do much printing at all.
Is this normal for the elements to be so shoddy or are there settings I need to be changing? I still have the first 2 elements that I thought had died but maybe that's not the issue at all so I'll hang onto them in case I'm overlooking some code to change in Marlin.
I've tried connecting and reconnecting both the wires for the heating element and for the thermistor. I've tightened and loosened the screw holding the thermistor in the heating block. While it did heat up momentarily, the error popped up again after less than a minute:
```
23:40:57.529 : echo:DEBUG:INFO,ERRORS
23:41:04.974 : PID Autotune start
23:41:37.274 : Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
23:41:37.274 : Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
```
How can I find out what is wrong?
# Answer
# 1 PID Tune
Changing the thermosensor or the heater cartridge is a big change in the system: each of these items has internal errors differing them from each other item. If your thermosensor has a different standard resistance by a small way than the one before, if the resistance of the cartridge is different, then the chip gets readings it does not expect. This is why a change of either of these components (or to a different heater block size/material for the matter) one should run a PID tune, teaching the chip how the new sensor/cartridge behave.
To do this, connect to your Printer via an USB Cable and run a software that can send raw gcode. I prefer Repetier Host, but other software also works. I like to follow the instructions of the e3D v6 assembly manual, but the video by Tom (Thomas Sanladererer) and the RepRap Wiki have excellent explanations too.
* Send `M303 E0 S200 C8`
* wait for finishing
* send `M301` with the values you just got returned. One example might read `M301 P17.28 I0.63 D118.87`
* sent `M500` to update your EEPROM
---
If this doesn't help, we might have a bigger problem, so let's go troubleshooting! Hardware first, then Firmware.
A few useful hints that Thomas Sanladerer found when he was checking his printers for fire hazards:
* A shorted out thermosensor (closed loop, 0-Resistance) triggers Maxtemp
* A burnt out thermosensor (open loop) triggers Mintemp
* A non-connected or burnt out (open loop) Cartridge triggers thermal runaway, as does any other error with the cartridge that leads to abnormal heating.
# 2 Check the Hardware
Hardware can fail, we all know that. But luckily there are only 5 items involved that could fail:
## 2.1 Check all connections
If the heater cartridge is not connected properly, that will result in a Thermal Runaway Error, as the thermosensor does not detect any change.
A non connected thermosensor will trigger a mintemp error, a shorted thermosensor will trigger maxtemp error.
## 2.2 Check the resistance of the heater cartridge
A broken heater cartridge can have two results: either it conducts no electricity at all (for example if a lead is broken), or it acts as a jumper and has no resistance at all. To check this, use a multimeter and measure the resistance in Ohm by connecting it to the leads of the cartridge while it is dismounted. A broken circuit in the cartridge triggers Thermal Runaway, a shorted out cartridge can break the board in worst case. A pictoral guide for analogue Multimeters.
My e3D light6 in my 12 V TronXY has a resistance of about 5.2 Ω. The Value you will get depends on what kind of heater cartridge you use. For reference: e3D Heater Cartridges are documented to be around 4.8 Ω for 12 V & 30 W, 3.6 Ω for 12 V & 40 W, 19.2 Ω for 24 V 30 W and 14.4 Ω for 24 V 40 W.
If your Value is given as infinite or near 0 Ω, your heater cartridge is broken - Though having 3 defect heater cartridges seems unlikely on first glance, unless something shortens their lifespan considerably.
## 2.3 Check your supply voltage
Now comes a thing that can be **dangerous** for you will measure a live circuit. Be aware that you are working with **live current** when you do this. Do **NOT** bring your fingers into contact with unshielded wires!
Set your Multimeter to check the Voltage. Connect the test probes to the output of the power supply that runs into the board. Power up the voltage supply. It should read close to 12 or 24V, depending on your machine.
## 2.4 Check the voltage given by the board
Again, this is measuring **live current** and can be **dangerous**. Use maximum care not to fry yourself!
If your Power supply is working, then it might be the board that is not allowing the current to get the heater cartridge. So we need to measure if it gets power. Since I=U/R, and we have established that R is not 0 or infinity (see above), we can establish if there is I by simply measuring U, which is the voltage.
Mount the tips of your multimeter into the clamps that should take the leads for the heater cartridge and set it to measure the Voltage. Make sure they have contact. Connect the machine to power and start it up. Order it to heat up the cartridge. It should show a voltage that is similar to your supply voltage (12/24V).
## 2.5 Thermosensor
The Thermosensor *might* trigger an error if it is faulty but not entirely broken. A broken thermosensor should trigger `MINTEMP` for a broken open and `MAXTEMP` for a shorted out sensor. The only way to test this would be to measure it against items of known temperature, for example using the bed sensor as Benchmark.
# 3 Check the Firmware
## 3.1 Thermosensor settings
In some cases, the temperature tables of the thermosensors are not compatible and one has to change the settings for that in the firmware. One of the best rundowns I know is in the e3D light6/v6 firmware manual, if you need more help than this.
In the Marlin 1.9 you do this in `Configuation.h`, under the header Thermal Settings. In my Ender 3 this is done in line 289:
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
```
That means, that my temperature sensor 0 (the one in the hotend) is of type 5, where type 5 is defined in the block above. The relevant line 256 of my file reads:
```
* 5 : 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
```
The most common choice in Chinese hotends to use this very 4.7-kiloohm pullup thermistor table, and the actual specific table for most of these is reasonably close to the 5. Other thermosensors can be reasonably overlapping, but in case you change the style of thermosensor, it is generally advised to change this value accordingly<sup>1</sup>. **Always** run a PID tuning after changing the thermosensor table!
## 3.2 Thermal Runaway Protection
The settings for the Thermal Runaway Protection might be worth a look. Maybe it is a little trigger happy? `Configuration_adv.h` contains a block titled Thermal Settings, containing when to trigger the emergency shutdown. For my Ender3 it reads like this:
```
#if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS)
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40 // Seconds
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // Degrees Celsius
```
From your error log, I guess that your printer has the second line as 30 seconds. It would be technically safe to increase this time to up to 120 seconds, but I strongly suggest not to go over 60 seconds.
<sup>1 - I had switched the whole hotend on my TronXY X1 for an e3D light6, and it only needed a PID tune, but in *theory* I should have also swapped the Firmware to reflect that - but, as said, luckily many Chinese printers use the table 5 even if they are not using the sensor. Table 5 was *made* for the thermosensors used by e3D.</sup>
> 6 votes
# Answer
@Trish gives a lot of good info, but:
**I don't think your heating element is the problem, I think the thermistor is, or a flaky connection between it and your board.**
The termistor senses the temperature of your heater (you also have one on a heat bed), and tells the electronics when to heat, and when it's hot enough. Now imagine if the sensor is broken or the cable gets loose: the electronics will think it's too cold and just heat forever.
This causes a fire hasard, so most electronics doesn't let the heater go full out for too long time, and ends it all with a "Thermal Runaway" if it happens.
So check that your temp is read correctly, even when you move the cables, and if that isn't it, buy a pack of thermistors (or what's compatible with your printer).
Good luck!
Source: been there done that :-)
> 1 votes
# Answer
Check the wires going into the board for the heater core. That was the problem with mine. They didn't remove enough of the insulation for the wires to get current.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I had this problem of "Thermal Runaway E1" always at the same layer each time, when printing TPU. TPU prints at a higher temperature than usual PLA printing. I was printing it at 245 °C. (I also tried 230 and 250 °C). It turned out to be the part-cooling fan was coming on at 91 % on that layer. Which was cooling the nozzle more than the PID tuning was used to. (I had changed the nozzle for a different type and the cooling duct was blowing directly on it.) Reducing the fan speed during the slicing step printed the project just fine. A better fix in this case will be printing a new cooling duct and installing a silicone sock to help retain that nozzle heat (and yet another PID tune once that's done).
> 0 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, heat-management, tevo-tarantula
---
|
thread-19451
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19451
|
What are the risks of leaving to print overnight?
|
2022-05-28T04:32:10.337
|
# Question
Title: What are the risks of leaving to print overnight?
I'm new to 3D printing and I was wondering about the risks of leaving my printer to print overnight? I'm aware that if something goes wrong I'll wake up to spaghetti for breakfast but what are the other things like having the nozzle and bed heated that long? And, when it's done it just sits there on so what could that do to the screen? What if the printer runs into some physical problem and damages itself and/or the print? I'm not looking for answers to these questions specifically just feedback on what I should do when printing overnight.
# Answer
Presuming that you're talking about an 8 hour period, your printer should be designed to run for 8 hours continuous anyway, so nothing will happen regarding the bed or screen that wouldn't happen with a normal print.
If the first few layers stick to the bed, it's likely that you're print will at least be partially completed. So even over night it won't be a full 8 hours of printing while failed. Maybe half that period.
If the problem is bed adhesion, or anything that doesn't effect the filament being supplied to the nozzle, then your only problem will be wasted filament and disposing of the spaghetti. No harm will come to your printer.
If the problem is a break in the filament or filament runout, or a blocked nozzle then you could have damage to the head of the nozzle from printing dry. If you're printing with PLA this isn't really something that you need to worry about too much as you can run a printer dry for several hours without any problems.
If you're printing with ABS or something that needs a hotter head then you could cause damage to it if it's allowed to run dry for an entire night. But again this isn't really something that you need to worry about unless it's running dry for 4 or 6 hours.
Simply checking in on it once in the night should be enough to prevent any problems.
> 9 votes
# Answer
I've done 4 day prints with no issues.
I just have my printer in a place where there is nothing that can catch fire in the unlikely event that it decides to start burning.
For the rest it's just like any other electrical appliance. Common sense like not having it where things can obstruct moving parts etc,.
> 7 votes
# Answer
Assuming the printer is operating correctly, there are no lifetime/wear concerns from running it that long. Many-hours and even -days prints are normal usage, and print-farms run as businesses run these things basically 24/7 for months on end, modulo routine maintenance. Having the heaters on for 8 hours is really no big deal.
Of course, that's *assuming the printer is operating correctly*. If not, there are various things that can go wrong.
The worst possible is **thermal runaway**: the printer losing track of the bed or hotend temperature and running the heating element always-on until it melts the metal. This is a severe fire hazard. Printers with properly built firmware have thermal runaway protection to perform an emergency-stop and turn off heaters if they can't detect a reasonable temperature measurement response to operating the heater, but some popular machines have this feature intentionally turned off by the manufacturer. If you will be operating your printer unattended, absolutely make sure you test that thermal runaway protection is present and working (there should be good ways to simulate it and see that the safety is triggered).
Even with thermal runaway protection working, there is a very slight chance the power mosfet controlling a heater fails in a way that leaves it always-on, which the firmware cannot protect you against. For this reason you also want to have the printer away from flammable materials and may even want an active fire suppression system (there are "balls" you can hang above your printer that activate and release fire suppressant if it's on fire). This is a very low probability event - I've never heard of it happening - but I'm including it for completeness.
Now, the less severe stuff. As long as the first few layers go down well, it's unlikely your print will detach from the bed mid-print, but it can end up having (usually small) parts that warp upward and collide with the nozzle. This can cause lots of different types of problems:
* Dislodging the print from the bed
* Producing skipped stepper motor steps, which later can cause the print hed to collide against either end of its motion range due its logical position mismatching its new physical position.
* Breaking parts of the toolhead, like fan ducts, fans, bed probes, silicone socks, etc.
* Causing extruded material to be forced upward into the area around the hotend (e.g. between the sock and the heater block), producing a giant blob of plastic intertwined with toolhead parts and difficult or impossible to remove without damaging stuff.
Most of these things do not impose any major safety risk like fire, but they can do varying degrees of damage to the printer, requiring repair or at least maintenance. For example endstop collisions themselves usually don't damage anything but they might knock your frame out of square/alignment, requiring tinkering before the next print.
> 6 votes
# Answer
There are software solutions like "Spaghetti Detective" (recently renamed to "Obico") which can watch your print via a camera, and potentially stop the job if it looks bad.
Most of the time my print failures come early, in the form of poor bed adhesion - watch the job start for a while before leaving it.
I can also remote-check my cameras and stop the job if required, but that requires me to look.
The second most common failure is lifting from the base at any time in the print, so you have to keep an eye on it.
Filament feed issues are probably third on the common list of causes for problems, including running out.
I also have occasional issues where my Pi running Octoprint just looses connection to the printer, and it freezes in place with the bed/nozzle heaters on. This is just a waste of power, so a future plan is to wire the printer through a relay allowing me to power it on/off from octoprint's web page.
My longest print was ~30 hours - you have to learn to not touch it unless there's a good reason.
Finally, try and maintain the environmental conditions to be fairly constant. I have an enclosure even when printing plain PLA, becuase my printer's location is in a garage, and opening the main door allows the air temp to drop quickly. This would upset a running print until I surrounded it.
You can also make sure there's a smoke or heat detector in the room where the printer is, for added peace of mind.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: safety, life-expectancy
---
|
thread-19458
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19458
|
What do I do when my magnetic bed looks like this after a failed print
|
2022-05-28T16:38:09.027
|
# Question
Title: What do I do when my magnetic bed looks like this after a failed print
I'm having a lot of issues leveling my printer and one failed print came out like this. Is there something wrong with the surface that I need a new bed? This happens to me quite often and I literally can't get it off.
# Answer
Print the print once more. the first few layers will adhere to the excess material and you can then peel it all off.
> 2 votes
# Answer
If it's flat so you cannot scrape it off you can just print over it. No need for a new bed.
Check your levelling first because if it's sinking into the bed then the nozzle is far too low and you can end up with a scenario where it rips the bed material when you remove a print.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: bed-leveling, print-failure
---
|
thread-19413
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19413
|
Do flyback diode filters in stepper circuits improve print quality?
|
2022-05-21T19:46:40.403
|
# Question
Title: Do flyback diode filters in stepper circuits improve print quality?
Do the add-on noise reduction boards (variously called Schottky diodes, flyback diodes, noise filters) installed ahead of the stepper motors really improve print quality on FDM printers? I installed them on X and Y axes and can see no difference.
# Answer
Flyback diodes aren't there to improve quality. They are there to )protect components the stepper connects to when the stepper stops. Motors store energy in inductors, and when power is dropped that energy goes back into the source driving them, which can damage equipment. Modern stepper drivers typically already account for that and are designed either with such diodes already included, or use a design that doesn't require them.
If anything, it might HURT performance with some drivers, as described in the article TL-Smoothers, Do They Make Sense?
> 3 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, fdm
---
|
thread-19463
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19463
|
Nozzle scraping bed on Ender 3 with CR Touch
|
2022-05-30T00:53:31.187
|
# Question
Title: Nozzle scraping bed on Ender 3 with CR Touch
I just got into the world of 3D printing and I'm extremely new to it and everything related and I'm not 100 % sure what I am actually doing (like all the code stuff too). I did one successful print on my Ender 3 (Benchy) before installing a CR Touch and unfortunately haven't been able to print since then due to many problems (about 2 weeks ago).
A bulk of the problems were caused by bad Creality firmware (SD card not recognized, no settings saving, mobo freezing during print). I downloaded TH3D's Unified 2 firmware and compiled it for my board/CPU (4.2.2 board, GD32F303 RET6) which appears to have helped. I also changed `default_envs =` line in the `platform.ini` file to `GD32F303 RET6_creality_maple` but I wasn't sure what to do after that so I just hit build? (in VScode). I built the `platform.ini` file before I built the `configuration.h` file, not sure if relevant either.
The problem now is that whenever I try to print something, the nozzle slams down into the bed and cuts deep grooves all over it. It does this when doing the filament purge line off to the side and when trying to print the actual object. I believe I have leveled the bed correctly, I bought yellow bed springs, and I manually leveled before I set up the CR Touch (by manually leveled, I had to actually move the nozzle to the 4 corners through the **Move Axis** option in the menu as I tried running CHEP's bed leveling G-code (the `M25` version for 32bit board) but my printer would just say "Printer Paused: Parking" and then freeze)
I tried adding the X/Y probe offset in the Marlin firmware but even though I managed to flash the edited firmware, the offsets wouldn't stick (I uncommented the right options I believe for it as well). I managed to push the X/Y probe offsets through with Pronterface. I put them as X -45 and Y -5 for mine which I measured manually but am not sure if it's correct). I set the Z offset as -4.1 (baby-stepped until I could barely move a piece of paper) and I stored settings, so whenever I turn off and on the printer, I check the setting and it's still saved to -4.1. After I set up the Z-offset, I go to **Motion** \> **Level Bed** and the printer does its 9-point probe, but I don't see an option to store settings after the bed level as I do in other people's menu. If it helps as well, I have also tried scaling back the Z-offset (so from -4.1 to -3.5 to -3 to -2.5) but it continues to kamikaze into the bed).
I put a `G29` code after my `G28` code in Cura, so the printer does a 9-point probe before each print and then proceeds to slam into the bed. I'll post my `M503` result and slicer G-code below for anyone interested.
Sorry for the long post, but I hope I included enough information, I just want to be able to print :(
**M503 results**
```
> M503
SENDING:M503
- echo:; Linear Units:
- echo: G21 ; (mm)
- echo:; Temperature Units:
- echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius
- echo:; Steps per unit:
- echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E95.00
- echo:; Max feedrates (units/s):
- echo: M203 X400.00 Y400.00 Z15.00 E200.00
- echo:; Max Acceleration (units/s2):
- echo: M201 X2500.00 Y2500.00 Z500.00 E5000.00
- echo:; Acceleration (units/s2) (P<print-accel> R<retract-accel> T<travel-accel>):
- echo: M204 P1500.00 R500.00 T1500.00
- echo:; Advanced (B<min_segment_time_us> S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> X<max_x_jerk> Y<max_y_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>):
- echo: M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.30 E5.00
- **echo:; Auto Bed Leveling:
- echo: M420 S0 Z0.00 ; Leveling OFF**
- echo: G29 W I0 J0 Z-7.40950
- echo: G29 W I1 J0 Z-7.29150
- echo: G29 W I2 J0 Z-7.17500
- echo: G29 W I0 J1 Z-7.15250
- echo: G29 W I1 J1 Z-7.10900
- echo: G29 W I2 J1 Z-7.06200
- echo: G29 W I0 J2 Z-7.09100
- echo: G29 W I1 J2 Z-6.95900
- echo: G29 W I2 J2 Z-7.09000
- echo:; Material heatup parameters:
- echo: M145 S0 H200.00 B60.00 F0
- echo: M145 S1 H240.00 B100.00 F0
- echo:; Hotend PID:
- echo: M301 P28.72 I2.62 D78.81
- echo:; Z-Probe Offset:
- echo: M851 X-45.00 Y-5.00 Z-4.10 ; (mm)
- echo:; Filament load/unload:
- echo: M603 L100.00 U100.00 ; (mm)
```
(I highlighted the line that seems off)
**Cura G-code**
```
> ; - Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
- G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
- G28 ; Home all axes
- G29 ; ABL
- G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
- G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
- G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
- G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
- G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
- G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
- G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
- G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
```
# Answer
I suggest you revert to the state where it was working as your first troubleshooting strategy and then use that as a state of reference.
Then make your changes one by one rather than try and fix a modification that doesn't work with another modification you're unsure of.
It's better to learn things systematically from a set point than to mix and match randomly. The danger is that you can eventually make your point of reference unachievable which is only fine if you have an alternative working solution. And you're not really learning anything that way.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, bltouch
---
|
thread-19461
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19461
|
Software to Pose and Export FBX Character
|
2022-05-29T16:43:41.977
|
# Question
Title: Software to Pose and Export FBX Character
I am a beginner and looking for software to easily pose a 3D character, which I currently have in an FBX file, and export the pose to an OBJ file.
For example, I could move the character's arm upward, then export that as an OBJ and print it.
Every software I know of either can not pose FBX characters (such as Fusion360) or can not export poses (such as Blender). How can I do this easily?
# Answer
If you pose it in Blender you can export it and print it with the pose. It's very simple, you just export as a STL file and then print.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, software, cad
---
|
thread-19468
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19468
|
Saggy vase walls. What are the tricks to successful vase mode printing?
|
2022-05-30T21:00:18.440
|
# Question
Title: Saggy vase walls. What are the tricks to successful vase mode printing?
I've tried printing in vase mode (or "spiralise outer contour" in Cura) and while the floor looks fine, the vertical sides look "saggy"
I'm using a 0.4 mm nozzle, with eSUN PLA+ at 218 °C and a bed temp of 60 °C. This combination works fine for normal printing. Layer height is 0.28 mm (Low Quality mode in Cura) with a line width of 0.4 mm
Image is backlit by a monitor to show the laciness in the walls.
The original model was a 1x1x6 Gridfinity bin that uses less plastic than the original.
https://thangs.com/designer/LittleHobbyShop/3d-model/%23gridfinity%20Vase%20Mode%20Single%20Box-65828
---
Is this insufficient cooling, or too fast a print speed letting the filament sag under gravity before it cools? Or is a 0.4 mm nozzle too small?
This reminds me of brickwork where the mortar is too wet. The bits that work right look fine, but all four sides have bad parts.
What's the trick to vase mode printing?
# Answer
You likely hav a mix of insufficient cooling and excessive layer height for the overhang angles in that model.
Cooling: The amount of heat you have to displace per unit of time is proportional to the amount of material you extrude per unit of time, which is the product of layer height, line width, and print speed. Going slower is one way to fix this, but not necessarily the best.
Overhangs: The model seems to have walls that tilt outward at 45°. This means, if the layer height were half the line with, only half of the extrusion line in the new layer would be over top of material from the layer below; the rest would be overhanging. But you're using 0.28 layer height. This means only 0.12 mm of the new line, less than 1/3 its width, even touches the line below. This is going to give you at best a very weak print, and likely troubles like what you're seeing.
I would go with thinner layers, and the same or wider line width, possibly at lower speed. Wider line width (note that you *don't* need a wider nozzle to do wider line widths) will improve the amount of overlap between layers, but it does increase the amount of material you need to cool. My preferred options for that print would be around 0.16-0.20 mm layer height, 0.5-0.6 mm line width, and whatever speed your cooling can handle.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The trick was to change a lot of settings and save as a separate set.
What works for "normal" prints does not work well for vase-mode work.
I had to:
* Decrease layer height from 0.28 mm to 0.20 mm
* Increase line width from 0.2 mm to 0.6 mm
* Drop speed from 125 mm/s to 80 mm/s (though this could be tweaked upward I suspect)
Vase mode also cannot deal well with printing multiple parts at the same time, and if you use "one-at-a-time" mode in your slicer then the max height caps out at 25 mm for me, which is not a lot of use.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, vase-mode, gridfinity
---
|
thread-15679
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15679
|
Is FabLab a registered trademark?
|
2021-02-18T10:30:22.437
|
# Question
Title: Is FabLab a registered trademark?
I am starting a new company using 3D printers and doing an advertisement, and I want to use the word FabLab to describe the kinds of field that my company is in.
Can I be sued by using the word FabLab in an advertisement? Is it a trademark? I mean, I can find this and this.
From the links it looks like they all trademarked the same non-dictionary word:
https://trademarks.ipo.gov.uk/ipo-tmtext/page/Results
# Answer
I did a simple search at www.huski.ai, and found 11 trademarks with the mark word "FabLab".
As you can see, most of them are abandoned, but there are 3 alive ones by a company called JO-ANN STORES, INC. Their categories are something like "paper goods", "fabrics", or "furnitures", etc. So I think there's still room for you to register it under electronics.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Sorry, I needed to learn to use the site. This site shows Fablab as a word mark, the same way it shows Apple: https://www.trademarkengine.com/free-trademark-search/trademark-search
> 1 votes
# Answer
# It depends on where
**Trademarks are national.**
In the United States of America, the USPTO is administering trademark registrations, but they are not mandatory to get basic trademark protection. The search is available at https://tmsearch.uspto.gov/. FabLab is registered in the US with two Marks that are alive in 2022:
* FABLAB is registered for a motion picture production company and STEM project since 2016.
* Hybrid FabLab is apparently offering Rapid Prototyping, prototyping advice and renting out a fabrication space.
In Germany the DPMA is administring. Unless you register your mark in Germany, you might not have trademark protection in Germany, even if you have the mark or some protection in a different country - unless there is a mutual agreement to update registers between countries. This is how some marks get an EM entry or an IR entry: European mark or international mark. Their search is available at https://register.dpma.de/ and yields these live results as of 2022:
* EM: FabLab is a registered mark from Spain which is not famous and only protects the whole picture-and-text mark.
* EM: We Found! Fablab ### is one of two marks that are owned by the same company, it is very narrow and fablab here is not the actual protected part, it is descriptive of the origin.
* EM: FabLab is an English-French word-mark on nutrition products
* IR: Hybrid FabLab mirrors the USPTO entry above
* DE: FabLab is for an image mark for only category Nizza 42.
* DE: FabLab München is again an image mark, with a broader list of services than the FabLab mark right above (Nizza 40, 41, 42). overlapping with the mark right before only insofar that they both are for category Nizza 42. However, they are both image marks and look nothing alike, so no confusion is likely.
# in general: it might not be registrable (on its own)
Do however note that in most countries a mark is only registerable if it is not descriptive. FabLab, short for fabrication lab, might actually be a little *too* close to being merely descriptive to be registrable on its own for fabrication services. However, as an image mark a lot more can be registered.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer
---
|
thread-10858
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10858
|
first layer tearing
|
2019-08-25T10:41:21.610
|
# Question
Title: first layer tearing
I have an Anet A8 and have a problem with my first layer. I printed nice prints but starting today the first layer is tearing in the middle:
Any idea how to fix this?
# Answer
> 2 votes
The great pics really help with the answerability of this question. From how catastrophic the failure is, and how it's clearly independent of any specialty needs for the particular print such as tiny bed-adhesion contacts, sharp overhangs, bridges, etc. this is definitely not a problem with temperature. Different people recommend different temperatures for PLA, but I find that 210°C works well for me, and if you go much lower you'll hit problems getting the needed extrusion rate for anything but slow print speeds.
I've seen nearly this exact phenomenon before, so I knew it was probably a matter of the bed being too high, blocking extrusion of the first layer and forcing what little material can escape out to the sides of the nozzle, then tearing into it when the next adjacent line is laid out.
If I didn't know that, though, I'd still start looking for a source of the problem that's related to extrusion rate. Something was clearly wrong with getting the right amount of material in the right space, which indicates to me that there's either too much material (overextrusion/wrong filament diameter selected) or too little space (bed to high).
# Answer
> 0 votes
I found the solution to be the exact opposite. My bed was too low (as in too far from the hotend). All the above mentioned aside, I did also drop the flow rate on the brim and initial layer by roughly 2-3 %. Now it prints perfectly again. (your mileage may vary)
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, anet-a8, adhesion
---
|
thread-19476
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19476
|
PLA Globbing up on the Extruder Nozzle
|
2022-05-31T13:42:53.543
|
# Question
Title: PLA Globbing up on the Extruder Nozzle
My Ender 3 was printing great. However, I'm now getting all sorts of globbing up on the Extruder nozzle. This is causing the prints to fail, and if I come back after a print I'm often getting 1/3 of the print printed with gaps, etc before it totally fails. Any idea what is going on? Its the same roll of PLA that was printing fine at this temperature, etc; but we are getting down to the last 15% of the roll if that matters.
------------------- EDIT With More Information ---------------
Switched out the PLA and my printer is printing great again! Per the suggestion from someone, I'm currently baking the old PLA and will report back on the results!
# Answer
I would think the filament has absorbed too much moisture. You can bake it and then try again.
I bake 2 hours at 50 degrees which works ok for me. But the first time I did this some of the roll tried to fuse together and the innermost 1/4 was wasted. So I've found that it's best to loosen the filament on the roll before baking if it's not that much. If it's a full roll I actually unwind it onto an empty spool and roll it loosely.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, pla, extruder
---
|
thread-19481
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19481
|
Solution for rewinding badly wound filament
|
2022-06-01T03:31:34.267
|
# Question
Title: Solution for rewinding badly wound filament
It came up in an answer on another question that some filament comes wound with too much tension, making it deform and fuse when attempting to dry it. Rewinding is a solution, but it's a lot of manual work and difficult to do well. Are there working printable systems for respooling filament - particularly, with a mechanism to guide the filament back and forth across the spindle as it rotates so that it ends up distributed properly. I would search for it by name but I don't actually know what that mechanism is called.
# Answer
It's called a spool winder (or line winder), works much the same as those used for fishing spools and wire. I haven't made one but seen a few printable ones online.
Thingiverse has a bunch of them (I haven't personally tried any)
This one has a moving guide for the filament which is what I assume you're after.
Spool winder with filament guide.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: filament
---
|
thread-19477
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19477
|
Volcano hot end adapter orientation?
|
2022-05-31T14:01:28.520
|
# Question
Title: Volcano hot end adapter orientation?
Now that V6 nozzles are getting more advanced, as in Nickel coated brass/copper nozzles (e.g. Bondtech CHT® nozzles) the availability for Volcano hot ends seem to lag behind...
A Volcano heat break adapter/nozzle extender has been spotted on the online market places to be used together with the shorter E3D V6 nozzles.
There seems to be confusion about the mounting of the adapter.
Either from the top of the heater block:
or, from the bottom:
What is the correct positioning of the adapter considering a hex key insert is in the path of the filament, e.g. effects on retraction performance?
# Answer
I'm not sure what the *intended* mounting is, but I would put the hex socket downward towards the nozzle. Especially with a CHT, the opening to the nozzle (3 openings rather) is significantly wider than the normal filament path (usually actually 1.85-2.00 mm), and having the adapter widen just before it should help the filament reach the entire opening smoothly once it's molten and expanded in the space.
Conversely, mounting it with the hex socket pointed upwards creates a point in the melt zone where the path widens then narrows again. Due to the way viscous fluids work, material that gets into this space is very unlikely to merge back with the main flow; it's going to stay there and **bake**. This could lead to jams or at least increased friction from the molten filament having to pass by carbonized gunk. Even if not, it could leave mismatched color/material filament inside the hotend after a purge, only to have it randomly come out later and ruin your print (or at least make it look ugly).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: nozzle, e3d-v6, e3d-volcano
---
|
thread-19485
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19485
|
Commercial use? 3D scans of museum artifacts
|
2022-06-01T17:39:55.903
|
# Question
Title: Commercial use? 3D scans of museum artifacts
I run a non-profit designed to expose high school students to 3D printing and entrepreneurship. The concept is based on pop-up shop-style sales of 3D printed trinkets, toys, artifacts, etc.
Can I legally sell models we print from the many open source and publicly available museum collections that are available on the internet? Example - a 3D scan of Rodin's "The Thinker" or the British Museum's publically available .stl of the Rosetta stone.
It is my understanding that these artifacts are in the public domain as they are much older than 1930 though the .stl scans may not be?
Keep in mind I am a fully licensed 501c3 non-profit organization.
Wondering if there are any good places to find fully licensed models that we could sell without having to worry about copyright infringement.
# Answer
# Not all museum pieces are out of copyright!
Let's start with a general primer: an Artwork is out of copyright if it was made by someone that died more than about 70 years ago. For items created by companies a different rule applies.
When the copyright on an artwork lapses, anyone can reproduce it.
However, not all items in museums are out of copyright: Auguste Rodin died in 1917 and thus is *free game*, but Eva Hesse only died in 1970, so her works will only be out of copyright in 2040 or later!
## STLs are all under copyright!
However, the STLs are **not** the artwork, they are a separate artwork that was made by someone that most likely is very much still alive - or at least are still in the protection period.
To use the STL you thus need to acquire a license **from the author of the STL.** Most freely available STLs are with a license that is "Non commercial" and bans commercial use, so you need to inquire about a commercial license.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Just read the license that comes with the STL. Most I have seen prohibit commercial use without permission.
> good places to find fully licensed models that we could sell without having to worry about copyright infringement.
Draw them yourself and there's no issues. Or buy the commercial licenses.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models
---
|
thread-19483
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19483
|
Printer stops printing at the same spot for every model
|
2022-06-01T13:22:19.870
|
# Question
Title: Printer stops printing at the same spot for every model
The 3D printer I'm using (Creality Ender 3 v2) stops printing at approximately the same height and no matter which model I try to print. When it stops, it does not go to park position or auto home, it just stops and sits on top of the print (getting stuck to it). It just started happening out of the blue, I have printed multiple things before this.
I am using the Creality Ender 3 v2, printing PLA at a temperature of 200 °C with the print bed at 70 °C. The Z-axis of the printer woks just fine manually. I changed the nozzle and I've made sure it is not clogged. The firmware does not need to be updated, and the bed is level.
I do not know what else the reason could be. Would love to hear your thoughts and opinions on why this is happening. Here's an image of what the print looks like:
And this is the g-code info from the little I understand about it
# Answer
> 6 votes
This behavior can be explained by a truncated gcode file - the printer gets to the end of all that's there of the file, and considers it done. A truncated file can be a symptom of corrupt storage media (corrupt SD card), or trying to save a file to a disk that's full with software that ignores the "disk full" error. At least in certain configurations, some slicers fail to report an error on writing to a full disk; I've had this happen when using Cura from the command line rather than the GUI.
Backing up any important data from the SD card then reformatting it is a good first step to try, and seems to have solved the problem for OP.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, pla, z-axis
---
|
thread-19492
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19492
|
Can you fillet the base of an object without needing supports? Is there a recommended radius?
|
2022-06-03T15:17:24.977
|
# Question
Title: Can you fillet the base of an object without needing supports? Is there a recommended radius?
I am currently adding a fillet to the base of an object (the plane that's touching the bed) and I was curious if the radius of the filet contributed to any mis-prints. I've had luck so far but was wondering if the intensity of the radius had mattered.
I am using the Ender3 Pro.
---
*I may do some test prints and see for myself and provide an answer to share experience .*
# Answer
You can print a fillet without support as support material causes other issues like problems with removing supports and ugly scarring on you print. However, a fillet will cause an overhang when you slice the object
and may result into poor results as well, see e.g. this:
If your design allows it you should better use a chamfer than a fillet for the base of the print object.
A chamfer prints better than a fillet because a fillet creates an overhang (see indicated area on the left part of the image below.
*Image from 3DVerkstan*
A chamfer, which normally is a 45° straight cut-off, doesn't create an overhang and, as such, prints better. If you still want a fillet, you could start with a chamfer of which you fillet the top, see the right part of the image above.
A chamfer with the height of the first and second layer is generally a good idea to reduce the slightly over “squished” first layer issues that create a lip around the base of the part.
> 5 votes
# Answer
> wondering if the intensity of the radius had mattered.
Yes it does if it's an overhang.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design
---
|
thread-19496
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19496
|
What could be the cause of these resin prints looking wonky?
|
2022-06-04T06:46:30.180
|
# Question
Title: What could be the cause of these resin prints looking wonky?
I don't know how to describe it, but when I print on my Phrozen Sonic Mini with this resin, this happens (it's Siraya tech, but it happens with regular resin too). The bottom half, the stuff furthest from the build plate gets wonky looking. The first picture, the print supposed to have a flat bottom, but it bulges out, and it has to be round, but it's not perfectly round. I printed it at a 45° angle, and it used a ton of supports, and 3.5 seconds exposure per layer.
# Answer
This might be a problem with the structure and orientation of the print - if you print large flat areas in one go, the still malleable resin can get sucked at and deform, the next layer then reinforcing the deformed state and thus creating the odd bulging pattern.
You might want to tilt the printed parts so that the flat areas are printed at some angle and thus reducing the area on which forces are applied on layer change.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, resin
---
|
thread-19503
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19503
|
Marlin 2.0.x bugfix: how do you define a specific driver to be used when driving a specific stepper?
|
2022-06-04T19:18:26.070
|
# Question
Title: Marlin 2.0.x bugfix: how do you define a specific driver to be used when driving a specific stepper?
I'm using a TriGorilla 2560 and Marlin bugfix 2.0.x, and two stepper motors that I'm using as two Z-axes.
For some reason, both Z ports, and the E1 port are being driven by the same stepper driver:
The problem is that only one port is actually working well, meanwhile, the other ports (one Z port and E1 port) make the stepper jag as in this YouTube video.
Also, there is a driver that looks like it is not being used by anything:
So I wanted to try to assign that driver, to the E1 port (and a Z port), and see how it goes, if it does fix the issue or not, but the problem is that I have no idea on how to do that on Marlin.
Under the pins section either of TriGorilla and RAMPS, all I can find are the definitions of the ports, so I can swap port usage, but not assign a specific driver to a specific port.
If it helps, here's my Marlin zip.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I guess you are asking to swap drivers, this should be done on microcontroller pin level in the `pins_[board_type].h` file from Marlin. This has been described in e.g. this answer.
Or, do you mean:
```
#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define X2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define Y2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define Z2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define Z3_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define Z4_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define I_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define J_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define K_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E1_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E3_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E4_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E5_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E6_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E7_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
```
Of the configuration.h file?
The following options are available:
```
* Options: A4988, A5984, DRV8825, LV8729, L6470, L6474, POWERSTEP01,
* TB6560, TB6600, TMC2100,
* TMC2130, TMC2130_STANDALONE, TMC2160, TMC2160_STANDALONE,
* TMC2208, TMC2208_STANDALONE, TMC2209, TMC2209_STANDALONE,
* TMC26X, TMC26X_STANDALONE, TMC2660, TMC2660_STANDALONE,
* TMC5130, TMC5130_STANDALONE, TMC5160, TMC5160_STANDALONE
* :['A4988', 'A5984', 'DRV8825', 'LV8729', 'L6470', 'L6474', 'POWERSTEP01', 'TB6560', 'TB6600', 'TMC2100', 'TMC2130', 'TMC2130_STANDALONE', 'TMC2160', 'TMC2160_STANDALONE', 'TMC2208', 'TMC2208_STANDALONE', 'TMC2209', 'TMC2209_STANDALONE', 'TMC26X', 'TMC26X_STANDALONE', 'TMC2660', 'TMC2660_STANDALONE', 'TMC5130', 'TMC5130_STANDALONE', 'TMC5160', 'TMC5160_STANDALONE']
```
---
Tags: marlin, stepper-driver, stepper
---
|
thread-19502
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19502
|
Flashforge adventurer 3 will not home or calibrate
|
2022-06-04T18:51:11.903
|
# Question
Title: Flashforge adventurer 3 will not home or calibrate
I had a piece of filament break off in the tube and could not unload it so I removed the extruder and pulled out the piece. Reloaded filament and started to recalibrate. The head went to left and tried to keep going. It made a horrible thumping and would not stop until I turned the unit off. I then tried to home it, same result. Tried to reset to factory settings then home it and same result. Any ideas?
# Answer
This can happen when the end stop of the X-axis (i.e. the minimum end stop on the left) has moved/bent/broken/un-connected.
Please look into this answer of question Flashforge Adventurer 3 - how to replace X-axis endstop. The X end stop is a module inside the print head, please look if the connector is dislodged or something.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, firmware, flashforge-adventurer-3
---
|
thread-18993
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18993
|
Adventurer 3 Not loading Filament/Grinding Sound
|
2022-02-23T19:58:59.553
|
# Question
Title: Adventurer 3 Not loading Filament/Grinding Sound
Have had my second Adventurer 3 now about 3 weeks. Used all of the red filament that comes with it but when I go to load new FlashForge filament in the unit, I can't even get it to suck up the filament. I just get a grinding sound like something is majorly wrong. Any ideas please? The filament will not even make it to the extruder.
# Answer
Try making sure there is a clean cut on the end. No fraying or angle. A straight clean cut. Then when loading push it a little. Give the filament a little help. It's worked for me.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: flashforge-adventurer-3, flashforge
---
|
thread-19510
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19510
|
When printing multiple objects at once, or traveling over gaps in prints, I get a lot of stringing. How can I help this?
|
2022-06-05T01:09:32.863
|
# Question
Title: When printing multiple objects at once, or traveling over gaps in prints, I get a lot of stringing. How can I help this?
I have a Creality Ender 3 V2. I do a fairly good amount of printing with it, using only PLA.I have notice when I am printing between gaps or doing multiple objects at once, I get a lot of stringing. Some of the stringing is extremely thin, and others are thick like it was still printing through the gap. Are there any ways that I can fix this?
# Answer
Stringing can arise in at least four ways:
* Retracting the filament by an insufficient length to prevent material from oozing out.
* Not retracting the filament at all before some or all travel moves, because of bad options in the slicer.
* Having filament that's so moisture-contaminated that boiling of water it's absorbed makes the filament bubble out of the nozzle even when it is properly retracted.
* Moving the nozzle over already-printed material in ways that tends to "pull it up" and get it stuck to the nozzle, where it later gets deposited as semi-random strings. This mostly happens as a result of travel without retraction (see above) but the mechanism is different; it's not newly oozed material.
To solve it, ensure that all slicer options that cause retraction to be skipped are disabled. Particularly, under Cura or Cura-derived slicers, "limit support retractions" should be off, and "minimum extrusion distance window" should be set to 0 to ensure multiple retractions in rapid succession aren't skipped. And of course "enable retraction" should be on. Watch during a print to make sure the extruder is turning backwards before every travel move from one part to another.
If you still have stringing, tune the retraction distance with a retraction tower. If it doesn't seem to go away regardless of distance, your filament is probably excessively wet, and you should dry it. If you have a good drying setup, this is probably the *first thing* you should try, since it doesn't require any manual work just time and it's likely to be the core problem.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, pla, stringing
---
|
thread-19508
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19508
|
Every time I print with my Ender 3 V2, I get a bubbly ring around the bottom. How can I fix this?
|
2022-06-04T23:45:12.730
|
# Question
Title: Every time I print with my Ender 3 V2, I get a bubbly ring around the bottom. How can I fix this?
I have a Creality Ender 3 V2. I have done quite a few prints with it using only PLA. When the prints are done, there is always a bubbly looking ring around the bottom of them. I have tried using rafts, and changing slicer settings to fix this and nothing has worked. Are there any ways I can try to fix this?
# Answer
> 0 votes
Something is wrong with your bed height, Z axis mechanics, or "automatic bed leveling" if you're using that. During this section of the print, the nozzle is not accurately at the requested distance from the bed, and material is spewing out to the sides where the printer tries to print the next layer too close to the previous one.
Try using the printer controls to manually move the head in small increments around 0.1 or 0.2 mm, and measure that the distance between the bed surface and gantry changes by the expected amount each time you move. I expect you'll find that it doesn't.
We'll probably need further information to track down exactly why it's not happening.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, pla
---
|
thread-19238
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19238
|
Under what circumstances are 3D printed parts actually viable with a desktop printer in comparison to other production methods?
|
2022-04-15T13:32:31.390
|
# Question
Title: Under what circumstances are 3D printed parts actually viable with a desktop printer in comparison to other production methods?
As an engineer I was initially interested in making parts. For example I designed and printed a better part for something which wasn't available locally, and even had a client who wanted 150 of them. But print time was 23 hours per part. and I didn't have full confidence in the robustness of the part. The layer lines are a big weakness and anything less than 3 mm is so flimsy that it's a waste of time. So robust performance parts are out. As are high tolerance ones. Build volume makes it even less useful. And the design compromises you have to make are difficult to justify if there are other ways.
Then with other network parts I thought of designing the vast majority needed other bits and pieces, screws, shafts, connectors in metal that I'd need to source and assemble. Enclosures were okay, but weak, and I can fabricate those stronger and faster in other ways.
So now I mainly just print to what I perceive to be 3D printings strengths and have almost given up on parts.
Has anyone had a different experience?
# Answer
> 3 votes
> Under what circumstances
When your part has internal geometry that would be difficult and expensive to reproduce using other methods. For example fishing lures which need internal water channels. Fittings or covers that would normally require several parts to be sealed together could be simplified to a single part and gasket.
When your part is a complex shape but has no need to be particularly robust because it doesn't come under stress.
When you need a part that you can design with a specific weight and shape you can control the weight with the infill percentage and other factors.
When your part is a niche one that goes with 3d printing strengths. Such as short term or single use items like name plates for conferences, key ring giveaways. Items of novelty value etc,.
When the part is not just functional, you may want a simple functionality in an ornate part for promotional, branding, or other reasons. I was tasked to create a container of certain dimensions. I could have done this a number of ways. But they also wanted their logo and a bunch of designs along a particular theme incorporated into it. Only with 3d printing was this able to be accomplished.
# Answer
> 2 votes
A production run of parts is generally a bad idea. The 3d printed part works as a proof of concept, testing measurements and tolerances even if the printed part can never take the load/pressure of the proper part.
The costs are also significant - filament is ridiculously expensive for what it is, and the power costs of running the heaters for 23 hours per part add up too.
You can also rapidly iterate on a design without having to wait days/weeks for a fab shop to cast/machine/make it out of metals.
I find myself integrating 3d printed parts into a larger build using other items. Example, 8x printed blocks with holes sized to epoxy to metal tubes, then covered with stitched fabric held down by hook&loop to the frame. Buying those parts would be okay, if they existed to find in the first place.
---
If you're under time constraints for something and can't wait for the proper item to arrive from a supplier.
**Sometimes "good enough" is literally true.**
To paraphrase...
<sup>When it's after midnight and I need this part right now goshdangit!</sup>
# Answer
> 2 votes
> As an engineer I was initially interested in making parts.
First of all, a lot of people who need "parts" (I'll define that term as something playing a physical functional role in the operation of the thing it goes in or becomes a part of) are not engineers, and don't have routers, lathes, saws, drill presses, etc, available to them. A decent 3D printer is comparable in price to a couple small low-end power tools, but the range of what parts it can make is a lot broader, and it can make them with a lot less tool-use and safety expertise necessary.
But a 3D printer is also potentially a very useful tool here even if you are an engineer and even if you do have access to a large toolbox:
* When you need the part in quantities larger than one, but too few to make by injection molding or other mass production techniques, 3D printing is one of the few solutions that's not prohibitively labor intensive.
* Some types of parts are difficult to produce with techniques other than 3D printing due to geometry that's not conducive to molding or subtractive manufacture techniques.
> But print time was 23 hours per part.
3D printing has a reputation for being slow. It doesn't have to be that way. At present, unless you're willing to become an expert with the tool or spend a lot of money buying something high-end, you're probably stuck with it being slow. But this is changing.
> I didn't have full confidence in the robustness of the part. The layer lines are a big weakness and...
This is another area where the field has progress to be made. Weak layer adhesion and inconsistency of part strength are problems caused mostly by a mix of bad slicers, bad slicing setting defaults, and bad extruders. The first two can be mostly mitigated with some expertise using the slicer; the latter is a matter of spending more on the printer or knowing what to upgrade on a cheap printer and doing it.
> ...anything less than 3mm is so flimsy that it's a waste of time. So robust performance parts are out.
I use printed herringbone gears that are just 4 mm thick, with pitch of pi mm (making tooth thickness about half that), in my printer's extruder drive train, which is a fairly demanding application with momentary speeds up to about 4000 rpm. And that's without any "engineering" plastics, just basic materials like PLA and PETG.
Aside from that, I use a lot of other printed parts for less-stressed roles on my printer, and outside of my printer, I have printed housing for various electronics, custom fluid hose couplers, replacement door closer mounting brackets, replacement soft feet and end caps (TPU) for patio furniture, impact-protection phone and tablet cases (in TPU) for models where it's hard to obtain mass-prouced ones with necessary features or fit for where the items are being used, etc. I'm not sure what of this qualifies as "parts" to you, but I think most of it meets the definition I opened this answer with.
One particularly underappreciated class of parts I'd like to highlight here is soft parts made with TPU or other flexibles. TPU is extremely durable, and at hardness 95A or above can even be quite rigid when printed at 100% infill. It holds up really well under abrasion, exposure to weather, and exposure to oils etc.
> Build volume makes it even less useful
This is really dependent on the scale of things you're working with. 3D printed parts seem more appropriate to me at the scales where build volume is not a limiting factor. Most of the people I encounter using printers with large build volume are using them mostly to do whole plates of parts at a time (for example, parts for building printers) rather than single large parts.
When you do need large parts, however, 3D printing can still play an important role, producing jigs or molds to use with other tools and materials.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Outside of hobbyist objects the only commercially useful use of 3D printing that I can think of is in support of prototyping new parts or products that will ultimately be produced by other methods. If an engineering team is developing something new that may require a few iterations to get form and fit perfected, 3D printing is a viable way to make changes relatively quickly as the design process progresses.
Things that support mass production methods such as molds, dies, jigs, CNC scripts, etc. are expensive and time consuming compared to 3D modeling and printing and typically must await a finalized design. Prototyping with 3D printed parts is a reasonably rapid way to get to that point with the assurance that a hold-it-in-your-hands prototype provides.
Another thought has occurred to me - geocaching containers. Geocaching - stashing things in odd places for others to find using published GPS coordinates, clues and hints - is a popular pastime and custom containers are always a welcome change from the usual pill bottles or food storage containers. I've made dozens for a friend who hides geocaches. I'm not entirely certain whether this market would be commercially viable but it's a big hobby. As I understand it there currently are over 1 million active geocaches in the US and probably tens of thousands of enthusiasts hiding them and/or seeking them out.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I've only just started my journey in 3d printing, but I have a little hobbyist experience in other forms of "structural crafting". I can see a few ways you can use 3d printing to enhance other techniques - the main one being that a printed part can be used to make a mold, which you can then use to cast aluminum, bronze, or whatever else.
---
Tags: print-quality
---
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.