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That lunch lit a spark that made Julia decide to take classes at the Cordon Bleu, which in turn led to her friendship and collaboration with Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle, co-authors of "Mastering the Art of French Cooking," and, ultimately, to America's culinary revolution.
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For information on COPIA events open to the public, sign on to www.copia.org or call (707) 259-1600.
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How to feed a legend
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So what do you prepare when asked to cook a birthday dinner for America's most famous culinary personality?
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Some of the country's top chefs will answer that question Thursday at the 20 dinners nationwide that will celebrate Julia Child's approaching 90th birthday.
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The question may be most acute for three San Francisco chefs preparing the long sold-out dinner at Fifth Floor restaurant, because the honoree herself plans to be there.
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They are the host restaurant's executive chef, Laurent Gras; his counterpart at Masa's, Ron Siegel, and Masa pastry chef Keith Jeanminette.
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"It seems she loves soups," said Siegel, "so I am picking up on her vichyssoise.
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The show, along with her seminal book, "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" (1961), revolutionized the way America cooks and eats.
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He could hardly go wrong.
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When Child was asked some years back what she would order for her last meal, she ended the list with "something chocolate for dessert."
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Here is the San Francisco chefs' menu:
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Corn vichyssoise with caviar
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Julia's composed near-nicoise salad
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Atlantic halibut with flavored butters
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Sonoma duck breast a la Julia Child with crispy pancetta and sweet summer onions and naturally enriched duck sauce
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Six-layer pecan marjolaine with Julia's coffee chocolate mousse, cocoa meringue, pecan crust and citrus sorbet
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list>
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Julia Child doesn't have much use for fads and trends -- never has.
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She never subscribed to cuisine minceur, cholesterol-free cooking, meat-free meal plans, organic food or any of the other politically correct trends of different times -- and that includes restricted diets, in spades.
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However, an active woman all her life, she is aware of the need to keep ones weight and fitness in mind.
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Here are her personal rules for achieving these goals:
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Take small helpings
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While making light of the difference a day -- or another decade -- makes, Child intends to enjoy her birthday thoroughly.
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No seconds
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Eat a little bit of everything
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Drink modest amounts of good wine.
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Why we love Julia
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But what about Bay Area notables who like to cook but are not connected to a professional kitchen?
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Susie Tompkins Buell, socialite and political activist who co-founded the Esprit de Corps fashion company: "When I think of Julia Child I think of the television episode where she's showing you how to make a turkey dinner and the turkey fell on the floor.
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It's live and she leans over and picks it up and says, `What the guests don't see won't hurt them.'
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You have to be playful and confident about cooking.
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She cooks that way, and I cook that way."
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Denise Hale, social icon and Liza Minnelli's stepmother: "Julia Child gave to all women one beautiful present: Watching her series you found out you don't have to be perfect."
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Francis Ford Coppola, film director: "I think she's a fascinating woman, and I enjoy very much watching her shows with Jacques Pepin."
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First, there will be all the public observances, including a sold-out dinner Thursday at San Francisco's tony Fifth Floor restaurant, which -- like dinners that night at 19 other venues across the country -- will benefit the scholarship fund of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (which Child co-founded).
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Harry Denton, San Francisco nightclub owner: "My favorite thing about her is her straightforward honesty and that her favorite food is butter.
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I love butter, too."
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Michael Chabon, author of Pulitzer Prize winner "The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay": "All I think of when I think of her now is Dan Akroyd pretending to be her (on Saturday Night Live) and chopping his fingers off and bleeding all over."
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The nationwide boycott of Chilean seabass is a potent example of the new activism.
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"I have made it a policy of mine never to serve Chilean seabass,"
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"I have made it a policy of mine never to serve Chilean seabass," said Billy Hahn, executive chef at Jake's Famous Crawfish, a Portland, Ore., landmark since 1892.
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"I refuse to sell it."
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Chilean seabass, also known as Patagonian toothfish, came into vogue in the 1990s in U.S. restaurants and fish markets.
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RESPONSIBLE SEAFOOD SALES ARE THE CATCH OF THE DAY
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With rising demand for the firm, oil-rich fish came pirate fishing fleets eager to cash in on its popularity -- even if it meant skirting catch limits and environmental regulations.
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Contrary to what some restaurants and retailers tell their customers, the U.S. government does not consider the Chilean seabass to be endangered.
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But in some areas, the seabass are being overfished.
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That is potentially a problem because Chilean seabass are a long-lived species -- living as long as 50 years -- and reproduce slowly, said Susan Buchanan, a spokeswoman for the federal government's National Marine Fisheries Service.
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ATTENTION EDITORS: This article from the NEWHOUSE NEWS SERVICE report of TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002, is available as a "separate buy."
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But more than 32,000 tons may have been taken illegally from those same waters, the fisheries service said.
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Impatient with regulators, the National Environmental Trust began a boycott campaign in February called "Take a Pass on Chilean Seabass."
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The Washington-based conservation group says more than 530 restaurants have signed on.
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A number of restaurants not officially part of the National Environmental Trust boycott also have stopped serving Chilean seabass.
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And it's not just the white tablecloth crowd.
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Red Lobster, with 660 restaurants in the United States and Canada, dropped Chilean seabass from the menu in the past year because of "sustainability" concerns, said Wendy Spirduso, communications director for the Orlando, Fla.-based chain.
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"sustainability"
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Some retailers also have pulled Chilean seabass.
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"We've discontinued selling swordfish, Chilean seabass, orange roughy and marlin,"
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"We've discontinued selling swordfish, Chilean seabass, orange roughy and marlin," said Mark Cockcroft, national seafood buyer for Wild Oats Markets, a chain of 103 stores.
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All of this comes at a time when Americans are consuming more seafood: 15 to 16 pounds per person each year, compared with 10.3 pounds per person in 1960 and 12.5 pounds in 1980, according to the National Fisheries Institute, an industry association.
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At the same time, about half the world's fisheries are being fished to capacity.
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The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations reports that 47 percent to 50 percent of stocks are "fully exploited," meaning that catches have either reached or are close to maximum limits.
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Another 15 percent to 18 percent are "overexploited," and 9 percent to 10 percent have been "depleted or are recovering from depletion."
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The seafood industry is less than thrilled about this surge of interest in ocean ecosystems from people who are not scientists.
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Fisheries management is best left to the experts, said Thor Lassen, president of Ocean Trust, a research and conservation foundation partly financed by the fishing industry.
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"It involves very complicated choices that have to do with the biology of species, their life cycles, how they respond to various changes in the oceans, etc."
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When there's a boycott, Lassen said, "it's not environmentalists or chefs making the sacrifice, it's coastal communities."
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"it's not environmentalists or chefs making the sacrifice, it's coastal communities."
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Rod Moore, executive director of the West Coast Seafood Processors Association, suggests that activists with an agenda are manipulating chefs and retailers.
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The conservation groups providing information to chefs and retailers and lists of environmentally appropriate seafoods to consumers are the same groups working to affect fisheries management on the political and regulatory level, Moore said.
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That's simply good strategy, said James Leape, deputy director of the conservation program for the David and Lucile Packard Foundation in Los Altos, Calif.
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They included support for marine reserves and money for fisheries management reform.
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More than $7 million was given to projects aimed at educating the general public.
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"One of the principal concerns of the Packard Foundation is the preservation of natural resources, particularly in the oceans, and one of the greatest threats is overfishing,"
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"One of the principal concerns of the Packard Foundation is the preservation of natural resources, particularly in the oceans, and one of the greatest threats is overfishing," Leape said.
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(UNDATED) Chefs and seafood retailers are wading into one of the hottest natural resource issues of the day: fisheries management.
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The Monterey Bay Aquarium's Web site rates different species of fish for overfishing, habitat damage and other factors.
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The California aquarium also created "Seafood Watch" wallet cards designed to take to restaurants.
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More than 600,000 of the cards and seafood guides have been distributed since 2000, said Jennifer Dianto, Seafood Watch program manager at the aquarium.
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Chefs and retailers around the country know they must be prepared to deal with customers who arrive with the aquarium's seafood card in hand.
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But in a business in which 12-hour shifts are the norm, some chefs worry about their lack of time to stay informed about complicated, rapidly changing fisheries management issues.
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Some working chefs say they routinely review conservation group Web sites, government reports and industry sources.
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"For me, it's very difficult to be certain that the information which is given to me is real,"
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"For me, it's very difficult to be certain that the information which is given to me is real," said Eric Ripert, chef at Le Bernardin, a four-star seafood restaurant in Manhattan.
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"I don't know.
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I don't have enough information to know, for example, if Chilean seabass is really disappearing or if it's political pressure."
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It's no longer unusual for chefs to refuse to serve a species they think to be at risk of extinction or for a retailer to promote seafoods that are abundant and part of a healthy marine ecosystem.
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Despite being uncertain of its status, Ripert pulled Chilean seabass.
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Le Bernardin's menu also informs diners that the restaurant will not serve swordfish to support efforts "to recover the species."
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"to recover the species."
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"I don't wish to be a spokesman for any campaign,"
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"I do it as somebody who has a conscience and is caring."
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(Michelle Cole is a staff writer for The Oregonian of Portland, Ore.
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She can be contacted at michellecole(at)news.oregonian.com.)
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Most say they're driven by the desire to do right by the environment.
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Some also say they must listen to their customers' concerns or risk a consumer backlash.
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But powerful groups, including the American Medical Association, oppose the idea and have a surprising source of support: psychologists themselves, some of whom call it a radical experiment and fear that the most likely victim will be the science of psychology.
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"I am concerned that nonmedically trained people as legitimate prescribers of drugs will not be accepted by the American public,"
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"I am concerned that nonmedically trained people as legitimate prescribers of drugs will not be accepted by the American public," says psychologist Gerald C. Davison of the University of Southern California.
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