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Beneath the church, the Museum of Sacred Art houses a collection of sacramental objects.
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The ambitious Museum of Macau (open Tuesday–Sunday 10am–6pm; admission HK$15) opened in 1998 in the lower levels of the Monte Fortress.
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Entrance is by escalator, near St. Paul’s.
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It gives an overview of Macau’s history and its daily life and traditions.
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A re-created street of colonial Macau is lined with traditional Chinese shops.
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The fort, built by the Jesuits in the 17th century as a defense against the Dutch, was largely destroyed by the same fire that burned St. Paul’s.
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Next to the museum, behind a gate (opened to anyone who knocks), is the Old Protestant Cemetery.
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Those whose fate was to die on some far foreign field could not have wanted a more peaceful, lovely graveyard.
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The small, whitewashed chapelwas the first Protestant church built in China.
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For a different vision of Old China, spend a few quiet moments in the classic Lou Lim Ieoc Garden.
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Here, arched bridges, pagodas, fish ponds, and stands of bamboo create the mood of a timeless Chinese painting.
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Nearby is the Memorial House of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, founder of the Chinese Republic.
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If you leave the park and walk up Cotton Tree Drive, you will find the Peak Tram terminal.
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Photos and documents tell the life story of the physician-revolutionary-statesman, who lived for a time in Macau, but never in this building.
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Kun Iam Tong, off Avenida do Coronel Mesquita (open daily 8am–6pm), is a 17th-century Buddhist temple of considerable splendor and charm.
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An unexpected piece of historical memorabilia turns up in the monastery garden, where guides point out a small stone table used for a treaty-signing ceremony in 1844.
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The signatories, who were the Chinese viceroy from Canton and the minister plenipotentiary of the United States of America, put their names to a historic document — the first-ever treaty between the two countries.
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The Handover Pavilion was meant to be a temporary structure, but public outcry ensured its preservation (located on Xian Xing Hai; open weekdays 10am–6pm, until 10pm weekends).
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T he crowded Kowloon peninsula and the booming New Territories on the mainland call for some serious sightseeing; but we begin across Victoria Harbor on Hong Kong Island, where the city was first founded and which remains the center of government, business, and commerce.
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Nearby is the Macau Cultural Center and the Museum of Art (open Tuesday–Sunday 10am–7pm; closed Monday; small admission).
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For more than a century, the most exhilarating way up Victoria Peak has been by funicular.
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Macau’s oldest museum, the Maritime Museum (Wednesday–Monday 10am–5:30pm; admission HK$10, HK$5 children over 10) traces the history of Macau’s connection to the sea.
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Exhibits cover fishing, seaborne trade, sea transport, and there is an aquarium.
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The museum also offers boat tours aboard a fishing junk.
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The museum is almost on the spot where the Portuguese first landed.
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When they came ashore they found the A-Ma Temple (properly called Ma Kok Temple; open daily dawn to dusk), dedicated to the favorite goddess of fishermen, who is also known as Tin Hau.
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The area was called A-Ma Gau (“Bay of A-Ma”), and in this way, Macau got its name.
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The ornate, picturesque temple dates from the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) and is the oldest building in Macau.
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The remains of the 17th-century Barra Fortress, which once defended the southern tip of the peninsula, contains the chapel of Santiago (St. James).
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The Peak Tram starts its scenic climb just across the street and around the corner from the American Consulate in Garden Road and makes its way, sometimes at a startlingly steep incline, to the summit at 398 m (1,305 ft).
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The saint is much revered in the surrounding area.
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Among other legends surrounding the statue is a very modern one: During the Chinese Cultural Revolution, when Red Guards were running rampant on Wanchai island, just a swim away, the image of St. James is said to have stepped down from the altar and halted an invasion.
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Part of the fortress has been converted and is now used as a luxury inn.
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The northernmost point in Macau is the frontier between two contrasting worlds.
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The Barrier Gate (Portas do Cerco), which was built more than a century ago, marks the boundary between the enclave of Macau and the People’s Republic of China.
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Macau’s casinos are a source of non-stop excitement.
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There are 12 of them; you can’t miss the eye-popping Lisboa, which has several floors of gambling, but there’s also the Hyatt Regency, the Mandarian Oriental, and Taipa’s Jockey Club.
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The fancifully decorated Macau Palace, a floating casino moored on the western waterfront, is fitted out with gambling tables, slot machines (known locally as “hungry tigers”) and, for hungry humans, a restaurant.
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Gambling is wildly popular with the Chinese of Hong Kong, and they make up nearly 80 percent of all visitors to the casinos.
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The casinos offer familiar international games — baccarat, blackjack, boule, craps, roulette — along with more exotic Chinese pastimes.
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Dai-Siu (Big and Small) is a dice game in which the croupier throws three dice inside a glass container.
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Players bet on the numbers that will come up, and on whether the result will be “big” or “small. ”
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Keno is a variation of bingo in which the player chooses numbers to bet on before the draw is made.
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The casinos have no admission charge and formal dress is optional, though long pants for men are required.
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They keep busy 24 hours a day, but if you want a change of scene there are always more gambling opportunities available.
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The right-of-way travels past fancy apartment blocks, bamboo stands, and jungle flowers.
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You can try your luck at pari mutuel betting on jai-alai at pari mutuel, greyhound-racing at the Cani­drome (one of the largest in the world), and harness-racing on Taipa.
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Like Hong Kong, Macau is a duty-free port.
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It is famous for its gold jewelry.
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Market prices per tael (34 grams/1.
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2 ounces) of gold are set daily.
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You should always ask for a certificate of guarantee when you buy gold or jewelry.
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Look for jewelry shops along Avenida do Infante D. Henrique and Avenida de Almei­da Ribeiro.
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Browsing is a real pleasure in Macau’s main streets and byways, where shops aimed at the tourist market are interspersed with the more workaday ironmongers, herbalists, and noodle stalls.
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Knowle­dgeable visitors look for antiques — either Chinese heirlooms or leftovers from the gracious Portuguese colonial days.
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However, you are not likely to find bargains, and you should be aware that unless you are an expert, you can end up with a fake.
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Also worth investigating are contemporary handicrafts, both Portuguese and Chinese, from across the border.
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Whether you choose to dine in one of the Macanese, Chinese, traditional Portuguese, or international-style restaurants, you will be treated to a hearty meal at a good price.
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The Peak is still the most fashionable place to live in Hong Kong, but real estate prices here are astronomical; rents run around HK$50,000 a month.
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The ingredients, especially the fresh fish and seafood, are first-rate.
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A delicate, delicious fish is Macau sole (linguado).
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Imported dried cod (bacalhao) is the Portuguese national dish; several varieties are available, usually baked.
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Macau has an ample supply of Portuguese wines.
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Try a vinho verde, a mildly sparkling young wine from northern Portugal, or a hearty red Dão or Colares.
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After dinner, a glass of Madeira or port is recommended to round off the meal.
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The more abstemious can stick to Portuguese mineral water.
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Bridges link Macau with its two islands.
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Since the construction of the New Macau-Taipa Bridge has allowed easy access to the airport, the population has grown to more than 30,000, with industrial development, new apartment blocks, and luxury resort hotels.
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The quaint Taipa Village, with its narrow lanes and colonial buildings painted yellow, blue, and green, has almost been completely swallowed up by the development of nearby housing projects.
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The island is also the designated home of the University of East Asia.
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A grand colonial house, fully restored and outfitted with period furnishings, provides the centerpiece for this expanding “cultural village. ”
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Not as developed as Taipa, it offers the joys of sand and sea and is known for its beaches.
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Cheoc Van and Hac Sa (“Black Sands”) are both popular resort areas, with lifeguards on duty in summer and windsurfing boards for rent.
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The Peak Tram, originally steam-powered, was built to speed the wealthy taipans to their mountainside retreats.
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There are restaurants, swimming pools, and changing facilities.
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The village of Coloane is picturesque, with a central square lined with cafés.
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Seac Pai Van Park, on the west coast of the island is an interesting natural preserve with aNatural History Museum.
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Guangzhou was China’s major seaport for 2,000 years and the center for European traders in the 19th century.
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The city still maintains its important gateway role.
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Ever since 1957 the Canton Trade Fair (officially the Chinese Export Commodities Fair) has attracted throngs of international business people every spring and autumn.
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Guangzhou, with a population of more than 5 million, straddles the Pearl River — China’s fifth longest — which links the city to the South China Sea.
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Before the tram was built, sedan chairs and rickshaws were the only way to get here.
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This waterway accounts for much of the local charm and excitement, as the daily drama of the ferryboats, junks, sampans, freighters — and even small tankers and big gunboats — unfolds right in the center of town.
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The river also irrigates the carefully tended surrounding farmlands, creating a beautifully lush, subtropical scene.
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Guangdong Province has some of China’s most fertile land, and grows two crops of rice a year, along with vegetables of all kinds.
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Guangzhou today is mostly about business and industry, featuring new development, skyscrapers, a whole new business area, and raised expressways.
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Since the tram’s inauguration in 1888 it has stopped only for typhoons and World War II.
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It seems that the picturesque older sections with their old houses, narrow streets, and winding alleyways may not be around much longer.
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However, it’s also easy to get to Guangzhou by train or ferry.
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Four comfortable express trains depart the Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) Station in Hung Hom, Kowloon, making the trip in less than two hours.
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Turbo Cat ferries leave the China Hong Kong City (CHKC) terminal twice a day; the journey takes two hours.
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As the double-decker boats get ready to leave the pier, bells ring, the gangplank is raised, deckhands in blue sailor suits man the hawsers, and a couple of hundred commuters begin a seven-minute sightseeing tour.
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Citibus also travels to Guangzhou from CHKC; there are five round-trips a day, taking 31/2 hours.
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You will need a visa to enter China (see page 109 for information).
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Hong Kong currency is widely accepted in Guangzhou, or you can change your currency into RMB (yuan) at any bank or hotel.
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The modern 120-passenger cars make the journey in around eight minutes.
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Note, however, that the exchange does not go the other way (see page 116).
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Guangzhou, like Hong Kong, is primarily Cantonese-speaking, but many people also speak Mandarin.
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English is spoken in hotels and tourist destinations.
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If you travel by train, you will arrive at the Guangzhou East Station, a large modern complex, which connects with the subway, buses, hotel transfer services, and taxis.
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