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19451 | What are the risks of leaving to print overnight?
I'm new to 3D printing and I was wondering about the risks of leaving my printer to print overnight? I'm aware that if something goes wrong I'll wake up to spaghetti for breakfast but what are the other things like having the nozzle and bed heated that long? And, when it's done it just sits there on so what could that do to the screen? What if the printer runs into some physical problem and damages itself and/or the print? I'm not looking for answers to these questions specifically just feedback on what I should do when printing overnight.
Presuming that you're talking about an 8 hour period, your printer should be designed to run for 8 hours continuous anyway, so nothing will happen regarding the bed or screen that wouldn't happen with a normal print.
If the first few layers stick to the bed, it's likely that you're print will at least be partially completed. So even over night it won't be a full 8 hours of printing while failed. Maybe half that period.
If the problem is bed adhesion, or anything that doesn't effect the filament being supplied to the nozzle, then your only problem will be wasted filament and disposing of the spaghetti. No harm will come to your printer.
If the problem is a break in the filament or filament runout, or a blocked nozzle then you could have damage to the head of the nozzle from printing dry. If you're printing with PLA this isn't really something that you need to worry about too much as you can run a printer dry for several hours without any problems.
If you're printing with ABS or something that needs a hotter head then you could cause damage to it if it's allowed to run dry for an entire night. But again this isn't really something that you need to worry about unless it's running dry for 4 or 6 hours.
Simply checking in on it once in the night should be enough to prevent any problems.
I've run printers with jobs over 2 days, no problem. Note that my Ultimaker 3 display does show some burn-in phenomena.
Also, ensure that your printer has "thermal runaway protection" in the firmware. Different manufacturers probably call it different things, but the idea is that it will shut down if the temperature of the hotend is outside an expected range as determined by the power being put into it.
Oh you can very much destroy parts of your printer with spaghetti. I once had parts of the spaghetti adhere to the hot end case so eventually it started forming a blob that started moving into the case eventually blowing the part cooler apart and the BLtouch was also ripped off the case. Its bad luck, but it can happen.
I've done 4 day prints with no issues.
I just have my printer in a place where there is nothing that can catch fire in the unlikely event that it decides to start burning.
For the rest it's just like any other electrical appliance. Common sense like not having it where things can obstruct moving parts etc,.
Assuming the printer is operating correctly, there are no lifetime/wear concerns from running it that long. Many-hours and even -days prints are normal usage, and print-farms run as businesses run these things basically 24/7 for months on end, modulo routine maintenance. Having the heaters on for 8 hours is really no big deal.
Of course, that's assuming the printer is operating correctly. If not, there are various things that can go wrong.
The worst possible is thermal runaway: the printer losing track of the bed or hotend temperature and running the heating element always-on until it melts the metal. This is a severe fire hazard. Printers with properly built firmware have thermal runaway protection to perform an emergency-stop and turn off heaters if they can't detect a reasonable temperature measurement response to operating the heater, but some popular machines have this feature intentionally turned off by the manufacturer. If you will be operating your printer unattended, absolutely make sure you test that thermal runaway protection is present and working (there should be good ways to simulate it and see that the safety is triggered).
Even with thermal runaway protection working, there is a very slight chance the power mosfet controlling a heater fails in a way that leaves it always-on, which the firmware cannot protect you against. For this reason you also want to have the printer away from flammable materials and may even want an active fire suppression system (there are "balls" you can hang above your printer that activate and release fire suppressant if it's on fire). This is a very low probability event - I've never heard of it happening - but I'm including it for completeness.
Now, the less severe stuff. As long as the first few layers go down well, it's unlikely your print will detach from the bed mid-print, but it can end up having (usually small) parts that warp upward and collide with the nozzle. This can cause lots of different types of problems:
Dislodging the print from the bed
Producing skipped stepper motor steps, which later can cause the print hed to collide against either end of its motion range due its logical position mismatching its new physical position.
Breaking parts of the toolhead, like fan ducts, fans, bed probes, silicone socks, etc.
Causing extruded material to be forced upward into the area around the hotend (e.g. between the sock and the heater block), producing a giant blob of plastic intertwined with toolhead parts and difficult or impossible to remove without damaging stuff.
Most of these things do not impose any major safety risk like fire, but they can do varying degrees of damage to the printer, requiring repair or at least maintenance. For example endstop collisions themselves usually don't damage anything but they might knock your frame out of square/alignment, requiring tinkering before the next print.
The fire-extinguishing balls you describe are almost always designed to deal with kitchen grease fires. Often, they've got the wrong chemicals for extinguishing a burning printer, and even when they do, they're designed to deal with fires on a flat surface, not fires on a three-dimensional structure.
@Mark: I recall seeing some that were marketed specifically for 3D printers, but it's been a couple years since I looked at them and don't remember the details.
There are software solutions like "Spaghetti Detective" (recently renamed to "Obico") which can watch your print via a camera, and potentially stop the job if it looks bad.
Most of the time my print failures come early, in the form of poor bed adhesion - watch the job start for a while before leaving it.
I can also remote-check my cameras and stop the job if required, but that requires me to look.
The second most common failure is lifting from the base at any time in the print, so you have to keep an eye on it.
Filament feed issues are probably third on the common list of causes for problems, including running out.
I also have occasional issues where my Pi running Octoprint just looses connection to the printer, and it freezes in place with the bed/nozzle heaters on. This is just a waste of power, so a future plan is to wire the printer through a relay allowing me to power it on/off from octoprint's web page.
My longest print was ~30 hours - you have to learn to not touch it unless there's a good reason.
Finally, try and maintain the environmental conditions to be fairly constant. I have an enclosure even when printing plain PLA, becuase my printer's location is in a garage, and opening the main door allows the air temp to drop quickly. This would upset a running print until I surrounded it.
You can also make sure there's a smoke or heat detector in the room where the printer is, for added peace of mind.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.291173 | 2022-05-28T04:32:10 | {
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19559 | How to change the time format on LCD screen in Marlin 2.1?
How can I replace the line in the time display with a dot? Using Marlin 2.1
The apostrophe or single quote character is officially used to indicate minutes, if there are two, this indicates seconds (but, in the image from the question, the double quote cannot be seen).
Replacing the single quote for a decimal isn't a good idea to display the time as the following number is in seconds, not a fraction of a minute.
Either way, the remaining time is converted from a number into a human readable format by the toDigital() function of the duration_t.h file (referring to the Marlin 2.1 bugfix branch). Even with little programming skills if is easy to find where and what you want to change ( hint, see comment: // 12'34), the function is quoted for reference below:
uint8_t toDigital(char *buffer, bool with_days=false) const {
const uint16_t h = uint16_t(this->hour()),
m = uint16_t(this->minute() % 60UL);
if (with_days) {
const uint16_t d = this->day();
sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR("%hud %02hu:%02hu"), d, h % 24, m); // 1d 23:45
return d >= 10 ? 9 : 8;
}
else if (!h) {
const uint16_t s = uint16_t(this->second() % 60UL);
sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR("%02hu'%02hu"), m, s); // 12'34
return 5;
}
else if (h < 100) {
sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR("%02hu:%02hu"), h, m); // 12:34
return 5;
}
else {
sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR("%hu:%02hu"), h, m); // 123:45
return 6;
}
}
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.291866 | 2022-06-15T15:11:28 | {
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19617 | Configuring Marlin 2.x with Ender 3 4.2.2 and BLTouch
I bought an Ender 3 recently and it has the 4.2.2 Creality board. Then I bought a BLTouch to upgrade it with bed leveling. It turns out that the BLTouch now comes with a standard 5-pin connector instead of the separate wires that all the tutorials talk about. How do I install the thing?
The BLTouch now comes with a standard 5-pin connector.
and that connector is supported on the board that seems to be shipping with Ender 3s these days, the Creality 4.2.2 board (Notice it's in the bottom right and says BL_T next to it)
This is intended to make installing things easier. Since I also had a new hotend I was installing, I needed to go the route of configuring my own firmware. If you don't need that, you can be lazy and snag the pre-built firmware from Creality's website.
If you, like me, go the route of building your own firmware, there's a lot of steps, and I'm sharing the results of 2 days of effort. To do this, you get to become a software developer for the next few minutes. Follow along carefully, as any misstep could be really really annoying.
Download the latest Marlin firmware. Creality already uses Marlin as a base for their firmware, so this is going to be the best choice.
Marlin is not preconfigured for your Ender 3, but we can snag the example configurations for an Ender 3 from the Marlin Configuration repository. I went ahead and found you the version for the Ender 3 with a 4.2.2 board. You're going to want to download all of the files in that directory.
Unzip the Marlin firmware to a folder, and in that folder you'll see ANOTHER folder named Marlin. You'll want to copy your configuration files downloaded in STEP 2 into that inner Marlin folder.
Now we need Visual Studio Code (told you you get to be a developer). Once you open it, you'll need to install an extension Marlin made for VSCode to allow you to easily build your firmware. The instructions on installing Auto Build Marlin.
Now you have a neat little button in VSCode to do stuff with Marlin.
But wait! We're not ready to click that yet. First we need to modify those configuration files you downloaded.
First let's update the Configuration.h file. There are a lot of important settings here, many you should change, and many that are nice to change, but I'm only going to list the ones that are absolutely necessary to get the BLTouch working.
you need to comment out the Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN setting, because the your BLTouch is using a different pin.
So that we don't lose our Z Homing, we need to then uncomment the setting for USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING.
And here's the one that I only found on the Creality forums with a lucky search. You need to uncomment Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN and set it to PB1 which is your BLTouch's connection point.
Naturally, you'll need to uncomment the setting for BLTOUCH.
You'll want to adjust the NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET to account for the position the BLTouch mounts in. The standard bracket should match close the values I have set below. Notice I didn't set the Z value at all. You should do that on the printer by hand.
If you're going to use the BLTouch, you should configure some sort of auto bed leveling. I picked UBL so I uncommented the setting: AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL
Since you're doing auto bed leveling, you need to turn it on, which you do by uncommenting the setting ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
Consider Nice-To-Have values, like Z_SAFE_HOMING, LCD_BED_LEVELING, PREHEAT_BEFORE_LEVELING, INDIVIDUAL_AXIS_HOMING_MENU or PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD in Configuration_adv.h
// #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
// Force the use of the probe for Z-axis homing
#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING
...
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN PB1 // Pin 32 is the RAMPS default
...
#define BLTOUCH
...
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -44, -9, 0}
...
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL
...
#define ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
Finally, you're ready to build. Click on the "Auto Marlin Build" extension, then click "Show ABM Panel".
Marlin should have figured out that you're trying to build for an Ender 3. I honestly don't know what the different environments are for, but the first one seems to work just fine.
Once the build completes, there will be a link which will open the folder where the build is. You'll want to get the SD card from your Ender 3 and copy the .bin file from that folder onto the root of the SD card. Then stick the SD card in your Ender 3 and power it up and you should see your new Marlin Firmware start up. Then you can start configuring your BLTouch for auto bed leveling.
Hi and welcome to SE.3DP... Nice long answer... maybe fix the images' positioning in the list formatting..?
Thanks for this guide! I'm going to be flashing my printer later. One note I found while going through this (at least for my Ender 3 Pro with BLTtouch and Marlin 2.1.2, ymmv) - the compiler refused to compile unless I enabled Z_SAFE_HOMING which is listed on your "nice to have" section. Appears that may be required now.
Thanks so much for posting. The "uncomment Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN and set it to PB1" was the missing piece I haven't seen anywhere else.
Don't forget to add
M420 S0
after the G28 command in the G-code, else you have to level bed before every print.
Technically the use of M420 S for Marlin firmware to turn leveling on is based on whether in firmware the definition of RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 is set or not.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.292005 | 2022-07-02T05:08:49 | {
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19414 | Adjustable Angle for a 1.5 inch OLED screen
I have a 1.5 inch screen, and I would like to create an adjustable angle plate for the screen, similar to Game boy advanced (shown below)
Does anyone know how the mechanism works?
By any chance, is there an adjustable connector that I can put on a 3D printed part to make an adjustable angle plate?
You'll need to design a hinge in two parts, probably with a third and fourth part as a cover.
The unit holds position by friction, so it will get sloppier with use as the plastic wears, or you may want to use a metal shaft and bushings. This will also be affected by the mass of the screen and the torque onto the hinge.
From your image, you can clearly see which hoops in the hinge are part of the top and which are coming up from the bottom.
The ribbon cable will pass between the lower and upper in the middle where the two wide hoops are, and not through the ends which will provide the bulk of the support.
If you want to make a case exactly like this, then consider buying a shell instead. The ifixit step-by-step instructions at https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+Game+Boy+Advance+SP++Shell+Replacement/137582 are clear and helpful for a complete organ-transplant.
The hinge/clutch mechanism used in these is a marvel, you're unlikely to be able to print one without a lot of trial & error, and looks like:
From
https://console5.com/store/game-boy-advance-sp-hinge-replacement-case-hinge.html
However people have designed GBA cases - search your favourite STL websites for relevant links. You may be able to find a case someone else has already designed and done debug.
Potentially useful tool https://3dmixers.com/m/275635-gba-sp-hinge-removal-tool-with-handle
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.292454 | 2022-05-21T23:13:51 | {
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19228 | Does VHB tape stick better on 3D prints if the surface is completely flat or roughed up?
I made a hook recently that I put up with VHB tape. It fell off around 2 weeks later (the hook come loose from the tape). It's just a hook for an empty backpack, so let's say it is under medium load.
Every time I design something like this I wonder if it helps to roughen up the surface before applying the tape. I'd imagine that the tape grabs onto grooves made with a knife or sandpaper but I am not sure tbh. I've seen some videos where someone preheats the tape before applying it but without explaining why.
Does anyone know how that works best?
If you ook into the VHB design document, the section "How to Prepare Specific Surfaces" describes how to treat the surface:
For higher adhesion, a primer should be used according to the document.
This reference describes that roughing up plastic parts can be beneficial for the adhesion of some tapes:
Abrade the Surface: Roughing up the surface (i.e. sanding) will loosen up any accumulated dirt, rust, or chipped paint. It will aid in the adhesion to painted surfaces or plastic items. A finely- abraded surface with shallow scratches created by a circular motion (rather than straight lines) has the best potential for a strong and persistent bond. This method can create up to a 40 % increase in surface area and can result in greater immediate and long-term bonding potential. Scrub pads, fine steel wool, or sandpaper can achieve the right level of abrasion. A palm sander could be helpful for larger jobs. Avoid using coarse abrasive materials because a too-rough substrate may inhibit the adhesive flow onto the surface. Always clean with the IPA/Water solution, or other solvents, and make sure all loose particles are removed. While it is not typical, some high-bond tapes adhere best to smooth, glassy surfaces, so double check with the manufacturer before you abrade the surface and compromise the bond strength.
Both references describe the use of a cleaning solution based on 50 % water and 50 % IPA.
A higher temperature is beneficial for obtaining the bond strength faster, the VHB design document shows that increasing temperature shortens the time when the full bond strength is reached:
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19238 | Under what circumstances are 3D printed parts actually viable with a desktop printer in comparison to other production methods?
As an engineer I was initially interested in making parts. For example I designed and printed a better part for something which wasn't available locally, and even had a client who wanted 150 of them. But print time was 23 hours per part. and I didn't have full confidence in the robustness of the part. The layer lines are a big weakness and anything less than 3 mm is so flimsy that it's a waste of time. So robust performance parts are out. As are high tolerance ones. Build volume makes it even less useful. And the design compromises you have to make are difficult to justify if there are other ways.
Then with other network parts I thought of designing the vast majority needed other bits and pieces, screws, shafts, connectors in metal that I'd need to source and assemble. Enclosures were okay, but weak, and I can fabricate those stronger and faster in other ways.
So now I mainly just print to what I perceive to be 3D printings strengths and have almost given up on parts.
Has anyone had a different experience?
Seems like a very broad, opinion-based question and not a good fit for SE in general. That said, there's probably a reason you don't see commercial 3D printing businesses using home/desktop/hobby type printers.
@FreeMan which is why I asked. A previous question and surfing around the site shows lots of answers talking about parts and precision etc,. as if it's justification for the answer or important, so I was wondering who actually makes parts. Because if they don't then their answers are irrelevant. I'm new to this site, but I intend to ask the hard questions because thats how everyone progresses together. Especially as more serious professionals start looking at 3d printing and looking for realistic information.
@ChinchillaWafers this site is about how to fix your printer? Thats not clearly stated anywhere I have seen. But if the community feels that it's out of scope (rather than just difficult to answer) then thats fine
@Kilisi in the Help Center there is a question "What topics can I ask about here?" that will give you a good idea of what is "on-topic". As to the 3D printing of parts as a business, there are companies that do that but they are using industrial grade printers. This site is more about hobbyists getting their 3D printers working or solving a problem that has occured.
@agarza so you're all amateurs?... hehe... yeah maybe I'm in the wrong place
I don't understand the complaints about this question. Professional use of 3D printers, and whether they're appropriate for particular professional uses, is certainly on-topic for this site.
Not all that come here are hobbyists! We have members in printer design and development of high end machines. I work in aerospace R&D in which 3D printing is becoming more interesting these days. Note that you can print metals and very high performance plastics on high performance printers. One of the most challenging aspects is certification and being able to produce parts that have consistent properties. We've successfully printed non critical flight parts that are much lighter than parts that are fabricated through CNC for instance, this is viable for small quantity batches of products.
@0scar yeah I saw something about a planes internal paneling being 3D printed a few month ago. Wasn't a desktop printer though, the panels looked at least a metre long per section.
Whilst interesting, this question seems to be opinion based, and there is no right answer... "Everyone's a winner"! Personally (and I may be wrong), I think it should be closed as it will end up inviting wishy-washy opinionated answers. However, in order to preserve the already existing interesting answers, it might be more suited to Meta.3DP.SE and could be moved there, maybe???
@Greenonline I see no need to move it, or assume it's only going to attract opinion based answers. It has 5 answers already
Under what circumstances
When your part has internal geometry that would be difficult and expensive to reproduce using other methods. For example fishing lures which need internal water channels. Fittings or covers that would normally require several parts to be sealed together could be simplified to a single part and gasket.
When your part is a complex shape but has no need to be particularly robust because it doesn't come under stress.
When you need a part that you can design with a specific weight and shape you can control the weight with the infill percentage and other factors.
When your part is a niche one that goes with 3d printing strengths. Such as short term or single use items like name plates for conferences, key ring giveaways. Items of novelty value etc,.
When the part is not just functional, you may want a simple functionality in an ornate part for promotional, branding, or other reasons. I was tasked to create a container of certain dimensions. I could have done this a number of ways. But they also wanted their logo and a bunch of designs along a particular theme incorporated into it. Only with 3d printing was this able to be accomplished.
A production run of parts is generally a bad idea. The 3d printed part works as a proof of concept, testing measurements and tolerances even if the printed part can never take the load/pressure of the proper part.
The costs are also significant - filament is ridiculously expensive for what it is, and the power costs of running the heaters for 23 hours per part add up too.
You can also rapidly iterate on a design without having to wait days/weeks for a fab shop to cast/machine/make it out of metals.
I find myself integrating 3d printed parts into a larger build using other items. Example, 8x printed blocks with holes sized to epoxy to metal tubes, then covered with stitched fabric held down by hook&loop to the frame. Buying those parts would be okay, if they existed to find in the first place.
If you're under time constraints for something and can't wait for the proper item to arrive from a supplier.
Sometimes "good enough" is literally true.
To paraphrase... When it's after midnight and I need this part right now goshdangit!
Good answer, unless you print to 3d printings strongpoints in which case a production line will work
Outside of hobbyist objects the only commercially useful use of 3D printing that I can think of is in support of prototyping new parts or products that will ultimately be produced by other methods. If an engineering team is developing something new that may require a few iterations to get form and fit perfected, 3D printing is a viable way to make changes relatively quickly as the design process progresses.
Things that support mass production methods such as molds, dies, jigs, CNC scripts, etc. are expensive and time consuming compared to 3D modeling and printing and typically must await a finalized design. Prototyping with 3D printed parts is a reasonably rapid way to get to that point with the assurance that a hold-it-in-your-hands prototype provides.
Another thought has occurred to me - geocaching containers. Geocaching - stashing things in odd places for others to find using published GPS coordinates, clues and hints - is a popular pastime and custom containers are always a welcome change from the usual pill bottles or food storage containers. I've made dozens for a friend who hides geocaches. I'm not entirely certain whether this market would be commercially viable but it's a big hobby. As I understand it there currently are over 1 million active geocaches in the US and probably tens of thousands of enthusiasts hiding them and/or seeking them out.
As an engineer I was initially interested in making parts.
First of all, a lot of people who need "parts" (I'll define that term as something playing a physical functional role in the operation of the thing it goes in or becomes a part of) are not engineers, and don't have routers, lathes, saws, drill presses, etc, available to them. A decent 3D printer is comparable in price to a couple small low-end power tools, but the range of what parts it can make is a lot broader, and it can make them with a lot less tool-use and safety expertise necessary.
But a 3D printer is also potentially a very useful tool here even if you are an engineer and even if you do have access to a large toolbox:
When you need the part in quantities larger than one, but too few to make by injection molding or other mass production techniques, 3D printing is one of the few solutions that's not prohibitively labor intensive.
Some types of parts are difficult to produce with techniques other than 3D printing due to geometry that's not conducive to molding or subtractive manufacture techniques.
But print time was 23 hours per part.
3D printing has a reputation for being slow. It doesn't have to be that way. At present, unless you're willing to become an expert with the tool or spend a lot of money buying something high-end, you're probably stuck with it being slow. But this is changing.
I didn't have full confidence in the robustness of the part. The layer lines are a big weakness and...
This is another area where the field has progress to be made. Weak layer adhesion and inconsistency of part strength are problems caused mostly by a mix of bad slicers, bad slicing setting defaults, and bad extruders. The first two can be mostly mitigated with some expertise using the slicer; the latter is a matter of spending more on the printer or knowing what to upgrade on a cheap printer and doing it.
...anything less than 3mm is so flimsy that it's a waste of time. So robust performance parts are out.
I use printed herringbone gears that are just 4 mm thick, with pitch of pi mm (making tooth thickness about half that), in my printer's extruder drive train, which is a fairly demanding application with momentary speeds up to about 4000 rpm. And that's without any "engineering" plastics, just basic materials like PLA and PETG.
Aside from that, I use a lot of other printed parts for less-stressed roles on my printer, and outside of my printer, I have printed housing for various electronics, custom fluid hose couplers, replacement door closer mounting brackets, replacement soft feet and end caps (TPU) for patio furniture, impact-protection phone and tablet cases (in TPU) for models where it's hard to obtain mass-prouced ones with necessary features or fit for where the items are being used, etc. I'm not sure what of this qualifies as "parts" to you, but I think most of it meets the definition I opened this answer with.
One particularly underappreciated class of parts I'd like to highlight here is soft parts made with TPU or other flexibles. TPU is extremely durable, and at hardness 95A or above can even be quite rigid when printed at 100% infill. It holds up really well under abrasion, exposure to weather, and exposure to oils etc.
Build volume makes it even less useful
This is really dependent on the scale of things you're working with. 3D printed parts seem more appropriate to me at the scales where build volume is not a limiting factor. Most of the people I encounter using printers with large build volume are using them mostly to do whole plates of parts at a time (for example, parts for building printers) rather than single large parts.
When you do need large parts, however, 3D printing can still play an important role, producing jigs or molds to use with other tools and materials.
I'm talking abut 'real' parts that you could confidently sell to the public without worrying about irate customers in the next few days.
@Kilisi: In mass production or being sold to customers for low-volume or single-unit-custom equipment?
Small production, obviously single unit is worth doing. Mass production would depend on product and market
@Kilisi: I think replacements for almost any plastic gear (and some metal ones even) are something you could easily print and sell without worrying about irate customers. Just make sure you use a material appropriate for the load.
Have you done it? I can make a useable toothpick that would be suitable, but doubt I'd find a buyer
@Kilisi: I don't have a business doing that or customers, but what I'm saying is that if I did, I'd feel confident selling them a printed gear.
ahh.. ok.. I get what you mean. Just realised you expanded your answer... nicely done
Like, if I were doing repair as a business or as repair-culture-building service, and someone came to me with an old piece of equipment they wanted to get working again that was out of service because of broken plastic gears, I'd feel pretty confident that I could take a few caliper measurements or a 2D scanner image from the old gear or the one it's supposed to mate with, model the replacement in CAD, and get a working durable replacement in an hour or so.
I've only just started my journey in 3d printing, but I have a little hobbyist experience in other forms of "structural crafting". I can see a few ways you can use 3d printing to enhance other techniques - the main one being that a printed part can be used to make a mold, which you can then use to cast aluminum, bronze, or whatever else.
True, but you could also 3D print in metal directly, with the appropriate printer.
Yes, molds are another viable use.
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7440 | What defines the speed at which a motor is retracting and how can it be changed?
Given a Marlin firmware and a line of G-code such as the following:
G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10
What defines the speed at which the stepper motor associated with the E-value is retracting? It is my understanding that the Feed Rate defines the speed of the movement (in this case 100mm/m) but I am not clear how I could accelerate a retraction?
The reason I am asking is that I am not seeing a swift removal of material as i retract. Could the slow feed rate be the issue? I am using a pellet printer (WASP 3MT) and generating G-code from polylines on Silkworm.
Considering this and all previous postings, if might be helpful to explicitly state why you are generating the G-code commands yourself instead of being generated by slicer programs. E.g. is that required for a pellet printer?
@0scar thanks a lot, I am printing in mid-air a truss-like geometry.I co-wrote an open-source plugin called Silkworm (for Grasshopper) that allows to export Gcode from polylines.
You instruct the printer to move from a certain X-Y position instructed by the previous move, to X=50 and Y=50. While moving at a feedrate of 100 mm/min, it will also retract 10 mm of filament (if the previous extruder distance was 0) during that move. If the movement distance is large, the retraction is slow. If you started from X,Y = 49.99,49.99 it would be very fast.
If you want a fast retraction, first move to a position, and than retract fast, so in separate commands. Do note that we usually do it the other way around: first retract fast and then move, this way there is less oozing of the nozzle.
To sum up, in your G-code command, the speed of retraction depends on the path of travel (the length and speed defined by the feed rate F). If it is fast retraction you are after, you should split the command into two separate commands.
It seems like you are particularly talking about your extruder, please correct me if I have misread.
In the command G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10:
G1 - move linearly
F100 - Use a feed rate of 100 mm/minute
X50 Y50 Z0 - tells those axes to move to (50, 50, 0) (absolute positioning)
E-10 - tells the extruder to retract 10mm (relative positioning)
If you are not experiencing high enough retraction speed:
Try increasing the retraction speed in your slicer.
Try increasing the max acceleration for the E axis using M201 (e.g. M201 E10000 sets to 10,000 mm/s).
Try increasing the max feed rate for the E axis using M203 (e.g. M203 E25 sets to 25 mm/s).
Notes:
If you're able to connect to your printer over USB, and you aren't already using an interface to control it, something like Pronterface might make it easier to test retraction speeds.
If this is the correct firmware for your printer, it looks like it is able to save changed values to the EEPROM. They may be using a modified Marlin firmware. If so, EEPROM can be saved with M500, loaded with M501, and reset with M502.
If your firmware limits what you can set with M201 and M203, you may want to download the firmware and try to edit its maximum accel/feedrate before flashing.
The trick is that the OP is not using a slicer, these are self generated commands (considering the previous postings). The retraction is done during the move, you cannot change the extruder feed rate without changing it for the whole move.
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7464 | Anet A8 with 3DTouch does not home X in the center
Working on getting my Anet A8 upgraded with some extra toys and although the sensor works, I can't get it to home correctly. I'm looking for some assistance to home the X in the center.
The probe is working and showing results, but when homing, it does not home to center (SAFE_HOME is turned on, Y homes to center but X is about 3/4 from endstop) and the Z offset always reports as 0 when using M851. There is a clear gap of about 10 mm between the bed and the nozzle after G29 is ran.
I'm using the following mount:
Bed is anycubic ultrabase 220*220
I have been using a combination of E3D configuration documents, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWDkZtWwd6I and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko to try and get it working.
I've posted my Configuration.h here to see if anyone can spot what I've done wrong and possible explain it to me so I can learn.
Hi, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
Your sensor offset for the X direction is incorrect.
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -28 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
should be
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 28 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
The hints in the comment already suggest that (left is negative, right is positive), your touch sensor clearly is located on the right side, hence +28 mm.
See also this hint in the configuration file:
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R -- probe (20,20)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G -- nozzle (10,10)
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
Also, #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1.05 is not really necessary. Many prefer this to be 0 and set the value later by using M815 Z-1.05 (sent over USB or "printed" from .gcode file over SD card)
You also have not set the boundaries for the sensor to reach, I quote:
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
//#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE
//#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
//#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE
//#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
This can be found in How to set the boundaries for BLTouch probing.
After a G29, the head is raised as instructed by the configuration file to employ clearance.
An M851 will report the actual value it is set to, if you have not set it (by using M851 Z-x.xx, or set it through the display using the menu) then it will report 0, that is correct.
Thank you for your comment, that was really useful. I've got the probe centered now, and am trying to work out the probe map from the other link you provided.
@NXSmiggy You're very welcome. Probe area is pretty easy for your printer as your Y offset is zero! Good luck, and please come back, we're here to answer your questions.
Had to modify the probe values as needed to relocate the probe. Turns out the 3DTouch is 3mm longer than a BLTouch so fails to stow beyond the nozzle height. Good job i noticed before crashing my nozzle + probe into the bed
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7524 | 3D printer out of normal printer (HP PSC 1315)
I thought as a fun project to make my own 3D printer out of a normal printer parts + some parts out of old CD-ROM drives that are lying around. The printer of my choice is an HP PSC 1315 one.
But I have these questions:
Does this printer users stepper motors or is using a combination of DC ones and some sort of position sensor?
What kind of electronics and firmware I can use for this type of builds?
No, Printers are not good sources
Common printers contain at best one stepper motor in the scanner, and it is usually too weak for use as an X or Y stepper, but for a very slow printer they might be useable, especially if you could source 2 or 4 of the same type.
The main motors in the printer are almost universally DC motors that get their turning signal as a voltage from the main board, which again uses positional information from an encoder strip/disk. Using both of these to make a 3D printer is usually not feasible.
However, they usually have good rails (sadly often of non-standard diameter) and might be salvaged for a decent optical sensor. See also Thomas Sanladerer's video about this.
However, the rails are frequently non-standard size diameter. It is hard to find bearings for them. My colleague is building a 3D printer from scavenged normal printer parts (using the rails) as we speak. We ended up printing Igus style bearings for his rails diameter.
"Yes" you can, but "No" it is not a good idea.
A colleague of me is building a Anet A8 clone from salvaged rods from a bunch of printers he had. The rods are 9 mm in diameter for which you cannot find affordable linear bearings. We printed bearing blocks from PLA with integrated glide surfaces to solve that.
Furthermore, practically nothing of interested can be obtained from a 2D printer/scanner. The steppers are too weak, the belts too flimsy, and the electronics are not useable. Only on optical sensor (used as an endstop), but these literally only cost about $0.40 (then you get the whole module including the cable). Also, linear rods of good quality are best obtained locally from a local (web) supplier, there are mixed experienced with those found on cheap internet auction sites.
Considering the amount of parts that can be salvaged from a 2D printer/scanner, and the part you actually need to order to complete the build, you better spend a few extra bucks and order all parts.
I'm in the process of making a printer out of DVD/CD drives. I haven't progressed particularly far (I have the stepper drivers and obtained three (non-identical) CD/DVD drives last night for 100 baht), but I can state what I know to date, and then update as I go along.
Note: I'm not using any recycled printer parts, so this answer skirts that issue entirely.
Firstly, there are a number of resources out there, which I have attempted to consolidate here, Something for nothing.
The principle recycled printer that most searches seem to throw up is the E-waste printer by Miquel Lloveras, @mikel_llc, see EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter by mikelllc in 3D-Printing. However, the blueprints are missing and the Instructable's guide is a bit sketchy at best. I am currently in communication with the designer on Twitter, and hopefully will obtain more details at a later date.
A far better Instructables guide is Complete Newbie Step by Step, 3D Printer With All Parts Lists. Very in-depth and informative indeed.
However, IMHO, the best guides that I found (and decided to follow) have been by Tinkernut and Electronic Grenade. In particular:
Electronic Grenade based on Tinkernut's printer, this really does seem to be the easiest printer to make, although it does employ the use of a 3D pen in place of a "real" extruder/hotend
How I Built A 3d Printer From Cd Drives
Make a 3D Printer From Cd Drives || Part 1
Make a 3D Printer From Cd Drives || Part 2
Tinkernut's videos for 3D Printer and the CNC machine that it is based off:
Playlist: Arduino CD-Rom 3D printer & CNC
How To Make A Cheap 3D Printer
Hack old CD-ROMs into a CNC Machine - Part 1: The Hardware
Hack old CD-ROM's into a CNC Machine - Part 2: The Software
These printers require no laser cut frames, and apart from the three CD/DVD drives, you only seem to need:
1 x Arduino Uno
3 x A3967 stepper drivers
18 x Brass Motherboard standoffs and nuts
1 x Resistor (16 kΩ or 22 kΩ) or 50-100 kΩ trim pot
1 x Transistor 2n2222 or 2n3904
1 x PC power supply
1 x 3D Pen (which may or may not require pulling apart and hacking a bit - it is up to you)
Software wise, these printers use:
Xloader
GrblController-3.6.1.7z
Grbl v0.8c Atmega328p 16mhz 9600baud
Obviously, with a little tinkering and calibration, you could use the standard Arduino Mega2560 and RAMPS1.4 setup, and your preferred firmware (i.e. Marlin, Repetitier, etc.).
Here is the A3967 stepper driver
A note on the motors
Apparently, some CD/DVD drives use DC motors rather than stepper motors, possibly in conjunction with endstops. While it is possible to use these types of drives, it seems much easier to employ the stepper motor type only.
It is possible that some of the CD/DVD drives which employ steppers also have endstops, and it is a good idea to salvage these endstops, when pulling the unit apart. However, in the Tinkernut and Electronic Grenade models these aren't required, although they could be added later, I guess.
To make life easy on yourself, try to get identical CD/DVD drives. Whilst a number of brands share common design/components and you may get lucky when using/opening different brands of drive and find the same parts, if you actually hunt around and get three or four drives of exactly the same make and model, things will be simpler (not amazingly so, but simpler and more consistent, nevertheless)
Hmmm, I got a bit over excited there, and then carried away down a myopic tunnel, when I saw the mention of CD drive in the question, and completely missed the bit about the printer... :-( However, hopefully some parts of this answer may come in useful.
With a little rephrasing you might be good. Something like "You need stepper drivers".
You need not a "modern" inkjet printer, but an antique flatbed 2-D printer. These were the state-of-the art in the 1980s, and drove the print head (a felt pen clamped into a mount) in X & Y over the printable area.
You'd still need to hang the whole thing on some Z-drive, of course.
See info at the HP museum, or buy one on eBay (Disclaimer: I just searched for that. I do not know the seller) .
Weren't those called plotters, and not printers..? I remember using them to print out OrCAD schematics
@Greenonline yes, they have names like "Pen Plotter"
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7477 | How to enable EMERGENCY_PARSER in Marlin firmware?
In the documentation of some commands of the Marlin firmware (like M112 - Emergency Stop), it says that the EMERGENCY_PARSER should be enabled to execute them instantaneously.
The thing is, I didn't find any information there of how to enable that EMERGENCY_PARSER or how it works.
Any help will be appreciated.
The constant EMERGENCY_PARSER is located in the advanced printer configuration file Marlin/Configuration_adv.h:
// Enable an emergency-command parser to intercept certain commands as they
// enter the serial receive buffer, so they cannot be blocked.
// Currently handles M108, M112, M410
// Does not work on boards using AT90USB (USBCON) processors!
//#define EMERGENCY_PARSER
To enable the EMERGENCY_PARSER, you need to remove the // before #define EMERGENCY_PARSER and recompile the sources.
Normally your printer will execute a command until it is ready to accept a next instruction. Without the EMERGENCY_PARSER set, the printer finishes the instruction that it is executing at the moment, if set, the execution is interrupted and immediately sent and thus not waiting for a clear space in the buffer.
Is there a way to know if EMERGENCY_PARSER is set without looking at the printer configuration file (for example, sending a command or checking the first responses when you connect via serial port)? Was this feature added on Marlin 1.1.0?
@fsinisi90 I don't know if you could try that out. You do need to somehow inject the M112 in the midst of operation, usually that is done by the code as an emergency response on certain limit checks, I do not know how to insert that manually from outside.
Well, I've already tried with M190 (wait for bed temperature) and then M108 and it's not working, but my firmware is Marlin 1.0.3 and I guess the EMERGENCY_PARSER was added on 1.1.0, so I don't even have the possibility to enable it. Anyway, I was looking for a way to check it on any printer from my source code (I'm connecting through pyserial), without human intervention.
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7501 | Proper wire gauges for extending all CR-10S wires
I want to extend all my CR-10S wires. I have two long wire types: 22 and 18 AWG wires. I've done some research and found the following:
Extruder heating element: 22 AWG or lower.
Extruder thermistor sensor: 22 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need much amp).
Fans: 24 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need much amp).
Limit switch/filament sensor: 24 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need
much amp).
Here is where I've problems determining which wire gauge to use:
Stepper motor wires: ?
Bed heater wires: ?
What's the wire gauge needed for the stepper motor and bed heater wires? Obviously, the bed heater needs more amp so I expect lower wire gauge. Is my 18 gauge wire enough for this?
On the Reprap site, it says that 18 AWG or lower is fine for the heating bed.
If my calculations are correct, a typical ceramic heating element for the extruder heating block runs 40 W. At 12 V dc, that equates to 3.33 A. A 24 awg wire is rated for 3.5 A, which means it barely covers the draw from the heater. A high torque Nema 17 motor will draw 2 A (which is probably heavier than most standard stepper motors in most 3D printing applications). Seeing as how the 18 awg wire is rated to 9.5 A, you should have no issue extending your wires using this gauge of wire for all of the extensions.
Please do note that 3.5 A is @ 75 °C. It is about 2.1 A @ 60 °C. Usually the current is lower than 2 A for steppers.
Also worth noting that these calculations are for SOLID wires, not stranded wires. Stranded wires can carry less current.
This answer expands on the heat bed wires question which is not addressed in this answer and gives a foundation for the edit of the question stating that AWG 18 or lower is sufficient.
The current depends on the voltage your machine uses. The question does not state whether you modified the power supply or not. Typical values for the resistance of the bed are in the range of 1.2 - 1.8 Ω (Ohms). This implies a maximum current of $\frac{12}{1.2}=10 A$ (the stock power supply is 12 V, if the power supply is changed to 24 V, the current doubles). From this reference you can look up the ampacity (maximum current through a wire) which wire gauge fits the current for your application depending on the maximum temperature you want it to reach. For 10 Amps, you will see that AWG 18 can be used for a single wire when you allow the wire to heat up to 60 °C. Note that bundling wires lowers the ampacity of a wire, because the cooling is less optimal for bundled wires (this is called de-rating).
Please be careful when you read that certain wires are sufficient for your application. It is best to calculate the current your specific application draws from the power supply rather than relying on somebody else's calculation, it could well be that the assumptions are different than in your specific case. A multimeter or multitester is a valuable asset to aid in your calculations.
The power supply has not being modified. What do you mean when you say "bundling wires"?
@Programmer Wire bundling is the process where you bundle multiple wires together using e.g. sleeves or cable ties like Ty-Raps, etc.
I plan to use "Flexo PET Expandable Braided Sleeving" to keep each wire type together just like the printer did when I bought it. Is this a problem? By looking at the link you sent, it looks like it would a problem...What one do ? Let the wires hanging out just like that after extending them?
@Programmer They'll just get hotter then, please note that AWG 18 can still transport 16 A at 90 °C. Proper silicone wrapped copper wire can go up to 200 °C (should be read on the cable mantle). You might as well go for some proper AWG 16 or AWG 14, then the wires will stay cooler. I use AWG 14, but as said this is for my heat bed parameters.
Ok. It looks like I have to order AWG 14. Thanks for your help.
you don't need 14AWG for anything on the CR10, that's an extreme overkill and will result in unsightly, expensive, and hard-to-manage wire bundles.
Im trying to find the right wire to use on my 3D printer, and it looks like 18-22AWG will suffice for SOLID wires, but what about stranded wires? Looking at the table in the other question, it looks like the values only go up to 43 wires, but the cable I just saw has 60 strands in it.
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8694 | Best way to fix ABS corner curling on enclosed Prusa style printer with PEI heatbed?
I'm trying to set up an enclosed (custom enclosure) Prusa i3 style printer for ABS, but having a fair amount of difficulty preventing the part corners from curling.
Detailed specs:
Geetech A10 (generic Prusa clone) w/ PEI heatbed
Custom enclosure
Slic3r software
ABS filament (obviously!)
247 °C hotend temp
115 °C heated bed first layer, 110 °C for others
Fan on for layer 3 and above
Verified heatbed temperature with calibrated IR imager.
Thus far I have been unable to prevent parts from separating from the heatbed during print, primarily at the corners where stress is concentrated. I've tried various heatbed temperatures from 90 °C to 115 °C, lower hotend temperatures (which just made the problem worse and caused complete print failure), cleaning the PEI surface with alcohol, etc. to no avail. I'm even seeing this to some extent with Benchy, it shows up as a lift to the stern and bow (slight bend parallel to the keel) -- the print is otherwise basically perfect.
I've attached an image of the more extreme curling -- yes, I should probably be using mouse ears on a part like this, but I see the same thing on parts that shouldn't require mouse ears.
What is the best way to fix this particular problem? Temperature adjustments, brims, rafts, something else?
I don't believe you should use a fan at all when printing ABS
I tried it both ways. Didn't see much difference, not sure which one is better in a heated enclosure. Fan in an unenclosed area would definitely be a very bad idea!
Have you tried using a brim? It looks like you're having an adhesion issue which a brim may account for ... could also be too hot. If a brim doesn't work, I'd try lowering your hot end temp down to 230 °C and bed temps down to 105 °C. 247 °C seems quite a bit too high for ABS.
Normally, 247 ℃ is pretty hot for ABS, the higher the print temperature, the larger the shrink effect. Use brims and an adhesive between print and bed (ABS juice, 3DLAC, Dimafix, etc.).
I haven't tried a brim yet. I did already try 230 °C, the result was almost no adhesion at all with the part lifting off the bed by the third or fourth layer. The ABS in question here has a recommended extruder temp range on the spool of 245 °C - 265 °C, it's the Amazon Basics grey ABS. My extruder max temp is 250 °C so I'm a bit limited in how far I can go in the recommended range.
You have SEVERE issues with retraction.
Adding 20mm mouse ears was sufficient to resolve the problem using the original extrusion / heatbed settings. I did not expect mouse ears to be required on the Benchy model, but given the lack of better advice it seems this may be a poorly documented "feature" of ABS.
Results on the original worst-case test model:
Note that the brims will not help if the bed is insufficiently leveled -- the brim has to actually merge with / melt into the base part layer, so the extruder height has to be perfect at the brim to part interface.
Example of extruder too far away from bed:
How did you add them?
A tall skirt (like 1 cm tall or more, even as tall as the part) few millimetres from the part would shield the corners and the outer parts from colder air and keep the part temperature high, reducing curling.
It is in principle better than mouse ears, because these just pull the corners, which will still have a lot of internal stress when cooled, but if you keep the part warm as I suggest, the corner will stay flat(ter) by themselves, resulting in a stronger and better print with less internal stresses.
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8719 | Marlin customization; additional output after G0/G1 move
This question concerns an Anet A8 with customized Marlin Firmware 1.1.9.
I need to generate an additional digital output to signal move complete to trigger some data acquisition process. The extruder is not connected and was planning to use those outputs.
Which section handles G-code processing and is there an already available option to get the job done?
Basically, I'm trying to use the Anet A8 as a computer-controlled positioning system. It involves some other elements which need to be triggered in a stationary state. The requirement is: G0 X10 Y10 after this is complete: set a pin high and low after a 10 ms delay. this after every move. Additionally if I could add my own G-code to preserve the original operation would be ideal.
Which section handles G-code processing?
In Marlin Firmware, G-code is processed by procedure void process_parsed_command() in file Marlin_main.cpp
I need to generate an additional digital output
A G-code that is able to set a port value is M42.
You could write a procedure that schedules certain port after a G0 or G1 move, recompile and upload the firmware.
If I edit gcode_G0_G1() function in the marlin_main.cpp and write direct directly to AVR registers DDR and PORT to toggle pins used to drive the extruder. Since I'm not using an extruder in the system will It be ok?
What I need is a blocking function till G0/G1 commands are complete
Would adding planner.synchronize(); to the end of the function achieve this.
Instead of sending M400 followed by the command.
@Ahe That wouldn't probably be a problem as you are not using them. But I don't know if these ports are reset by any function or so. You could comment out the extruder pin assignment in pins_ANET_10.h to be sure, but please try, it might be that these port constant definitions are uses somewhere in the code. Just search the code base, I suspect that you have some programming experience to figure it out. Good luck!
@Ahe You may want to look at the M400 "Finish Moves" G-Code.
If you were to set the G-Code buffer to a size of 1 and inject M400 after each G1 / G0 command, you could then toggle your pin using e.g. M42 P123 S255 -> G4 P10 -> M42 P123 S0 with 123 being your digital pin number.
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8741 | Test print coming out spongy
I acquired an Anycubic Chiron yesterday. I went through the leveling procedure and I think the level test print came out okay so I printed a 20 mm calibration cube and a benchy. Both of these came out with a sort of spongy consistency.
I have no idea what could be causing this so some advice would be appreciated.
I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.0.0 and printing in PLA.
It turned out I had the wrong filament size set in Ultimaker Cura. Fixing this resolved the issue.
That could be an issue as well ... good call! :o)
Got the 3d printing discord channel to thank for pointing that one out to me
Just out of interest, what was the filament diameter that you were using, and what was the setting when it was coming out spongy? 1.75 and 3 respectively, or vice versa, or some other combination?
It's always Cura having the wrong default filament diameter or even ignoring your choice and replacing it silently...
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE Unless it's the e-stepper, as happened to hundreds of people that took the plunge on an Ender 3 Pro for the Black Friday deal, and got a printer with two and a half times the stepper resolution that the printer's own firmware expected (to say nothing of Cura).
I would lay odds on it being your filament is moisture saturated. You don't state what type of filament you're using, but to my understanding this is what happens when it is saturated. The water evaporates as it goes through the nozzle, which causes the filament to puff up, which leaves voids in your print.
The print itself looks like it came out rather well. I mean, the edges of the print are solid and everything is clearly defined. This would state to me the slicer and the printer itself are doing their jobs well. You didn't measure it (or leave any hint you did), so I'll assume the overall dimensions are good.
Try a different filament and see if you get better results.
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8690 | Strange problem with quality, what might be the reason for these bubbles?
I changed the filament, and to adjust filament temperature, I printed a test model and it looked good:
But printing another part did not go so well:
After the failed print I ran another test:
Еverything is done with the same settings.
And I think the temperature and settings are okay.
Is it possible to have a missed step on the Z axis, and this has caused the crushing of the layers or bad filament quality.
Where does the problem come from?
It looks like over-extrusion. Please tell us the machine, slicer, temps, speed, layer thickness, and material used.
Missing Z steps results in shorter or skew prints, is the cylindrical part with bubbles shorter than it should be? Is the extruder stepper stuttering? Please also add some settings as asked by @Davo. Thanks!
It definitely looks like the temperature is too high
but it can also mean that
the speed is too low and/or
the cooling fan is not driven correctly and/or
over extrusion could play a role here
this is the scenario with all these issues together
too high temperature melts too much filament which is put by too slow movements
;)
check the printing when your object changes from well printed to this ugly state
Looking at the second photograph and the way that the filament switches abruptly from smooth to irregular deposition, I would say that you have a partially clogged nozzle.
Pre-heat the nozzle and extrude some filament. It should drop straight down from the nozzle. If the filament curls as it comes out of the nozzle, the nozzle is partially clogged. You may be able to clear the clog by doing what is called a "cold pull":
Pre-heat the nozzle so that it is possible to extrude filament. Then switch off the heater and allow the temperature to fall below the pre-heat temperature of the filament (140°C for PLA, say). Now disengage the extruder gears and gently withdraw the filament completely from the hot end. On removing the filament completely from the printer, you should find a "bullet" on the end of the filament in the shape of the melt chamber. Hopefully, the dirt that caused the clog will be embedded in the bullet.
In order to prevent dirt from entering the nozzle, it is a good idea to install a filament cleaner. This can be as simple as a piece of sponge containing a couple of drops of light machine oil, or you can make something a little more sophisticated. There are plenty of designs that you can download on Thingiverse.
@Mick Thanks for answer, but i have filament cleaner and i think the nozzle is not clogged.
From third picture - moisture!
Is new filament cheap? I guess it was too long on stash and/or bad package.
Look for Maker's Muse's video on Youtube about this topic.
Moisture has an effect on printing filaments, but not like shown in the image you are referring to.
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8610 | Why are there so many print speed parameters in slicers?
The expert mode of Slic3r PE has almost a dozen speed values:
I understand that ultimately print speed at a particular temperature correlates with bond strength, so things like bridges and the first layer having different speeds are reasonable.
What about the rest? Why does infill have 3 variations? How are the different categories listed impacted distinctly from any other form of layer/path bonding?
The real answer is: because we love to tinker.
There are multiple parameters because of the trade-off at print speeds.
Slow printing will have less ghosting and a better overall quality, but it takes way more time.
Fast printing will be fast (oh thank you, Captain Obvious), but you will get stronger ghostings and poorer line quality overall. Maybe some strange artifacts.
But you don't need a good print quality in areas that are not visible at all, but you do need it for the outer shell. Also, is the travel mostly just something that you want done as fast as possible but maybe not so fast that that the whole printer starts shaking?
So, you want to set different parameters for different parts.
Next reason: most slicers are used for a large variation of printers, and every printer is a litte bit different—even the same printer type with different addons (like a vanilla Anet A8 vs. a beefed up Anet A8). For the slicer to be able to be used by all these printers, it is necessary to be able to set multiple parameters.
To get deeper into your question about the different infill speeds: if you print a solid infill you will also need to give the printed material more time to cool down, because it is packed tightly and there is not much surface area for heat to get away. If you print these areas too fast you will end up with a part that is too warm and warps and deforms all the time while the next layers were printed on already, inserting even more heat into the part and isolating the warm parts from the outside. You can observe similar behavior when printing overhanging areas with thick walls: there the part will stay in a semi-solid state, and deforms all the time.
But how fast you have to go depends on the cooling system you have on your printer.
Thanks, but that doesn't answer my question. I'm not asking why different speeds are important, I'm asking about why do the speeds need to differ by those categories and what their respective impacts are.
To get deeper: If you print a solid infill you will also need to give the printed material more time to cool down, because it is packed tightly and there is no much surface area for getting heat away. If you print these areas to fast you will end up with a part that is to warm and warps and deforms all the time while the next layers were printed on already, inserting even more heat into the part and isolate the warm parts from the outside. You can observe similar behavior when printing overhanging areas with a thick walls. There the part will stay in a semi solid state and deforms all the time
But how fast you habe to go depends on the cooling system you have on your printer.
@kolosy I have add the deeper information to my answer :)
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8553 | Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board
I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near future and I have a spare power supply 12V/360W laying around.
When I first got my printer I purchased this external MOSFET board after reading about X5s "upgrades", but so far have not used it.
My plan is to now run the heat bed using a separate power supply than the one running my control board using the external MOSFET to switch it. Since this power supply will only be powering the bed, I would like to bump up the voltage, via trim-pot somewhere from 12V-15V, to gain some watts per square inch on my heat bed.
Will this MOSFET isolate the heat bed circuit from my control board to allow it be ran at a higher voltage? Is it safe to run the power supply/heat bed at a higher voltage than it is rated for a significant amount of time?
Short answer YES. You can run it from a different power supply at a higher voltage. Also it has a PC817 Optical isolator (for some reason) therefore the second power supply and your main board should not be electrically connected at all.
Where did you find the information on the PC817?
I looked up the board online, zoomed in on the image then googled the numbers. This resulted in a link to the datasheet.
Yes you can, but you should be aware that running at higher voltage implies that the current also increases. Your wiring and connectors to the heated platform have to be able to transport that extra current (e.g. the wires, the ones I got where very low quality, and connectors that came with my Anet A8 where not even rated for the standard load, let alone an even higher load). You need to properly solder the leads to the heated bed and use proper terminal clamps (C-clamps or forks) to connect the cables to the MOSFET module. Even running the basic voltage this can happen:
Let's assume the heated bed has a resistance (R) of about 1.4 Ω. A voltage (U) of 12 V would result in a current (I) of $ I=\frac{U}{R}=\frac{12}{1.4} = 8.6\ A$ (Ampere). Running the same bed at 15 V would result in a current of $ \frac{15}{1.4} = 10.7\ A$. The power would increase from about 102 Watt to 161, which is a 60 % increase of a 25 % increase in voltage.
...and so long as the thermistor is working nothing should catch fire.
@user77232 The working of the thermistor has nothing to do with that, connectors and wires could burn anyway due to not being rated for the current. There are examples where it did go wrong.
You'll have that problem no matter what voltage you run at. Bad connectors are bad at any voltage.
... and good connectors become bad connectors when you are overpowering them.
For reference,I done tracing this module as shown.
So you can use isolated power supply for load.
Also you can use up to 24V without any problem.
Edit:
This module still work with higher voltage up to 24V. But according to question. Using higher voltage supply more than rated is same as my question here.
For summary. Adding more voltage to resistive load results to higher current flow. Recheck your wire and connectors for current rate so you will know the limit of voltage you can go with.
One more thing, mosfet can fail like short circuit. At this situation the temperature of bed cannot be controlled.
At normal voltage rate even we left the bed connected to power supply the temperature will rising to about 100C if you add more voltage it will go higher than that can the heated bed will broken or burned or start to fires
That doesn't seem to be a wise answer: "use up to 24V without any problem" Although you can supply 24 V, you need to make sure all connectors and cables can handle that current increase. I know it is possible as I have turned a 12 V bed into a 24 V bed, but that is only possible when you do more changes than just upping the voltage to 24.
@0scar My bad. I mean if we supply 24V to module the module still working fine
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8539 | Trouble printing small thin pole
3D-printing newbie here. I have a Geeetech's Prusa i3 mk2 B.
I'm trying to print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311
That's a mold, with 2 external parts and a core. The exterior prints wonderful. But the core is too messy. Take a look at this:
What riddles me is that the side parts, and the pole's base, print fine; so this does not look like a bad calibrated printer, but something else entirely. My guess is this is some precise tuning I don't know yet.
I've been trying to print that little pole without success for over a week now. Tried all this:
Changing the slicer program (I've used Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r prusa edition)
Tuning the e-steps for avoiding over-extrusion.
Tuning the z-steps, so the nozzle doesn't melt the last layer when printing a new one.
In the same sense, changed the nozzle heat.
Tried lots of different layering, speed, walls, bridging, and quirks configurations.
So far, the best I got is a little pole not-too-deformed so I can make my part anyway, even when the pole is not well printed. But after seeing lots of videos and reading lots of tips online, I still don't understand how to tune my print for that simple little pole.
Other that tips, what I would really like to ask is if somebody has a name for that problem I'm facing, so it would be much more easy to search for my tuning options.
So... any clue how to fix this?
Try printing it at 1/10 the speed that you normally do, or switch to a smaller nozzle, re-slice, then try again. What material are you printing in?
Basically, you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers.
You can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited.
From mastering Ultimaker Cura:
When printing a series of small parts, print them all together. The
travel time between the parts is often enough time for the layers to
cool without changing your settings.
If you do want this to print as a single piece, you need to:
tune down hotend temperature (use the minimum temperature that gives good print results, printing a temperature tower will help to determine this),
increase minimal layer time (may not always work as speed will not be lowered under the minimum printing speed) and
increase part cooling fan percentage (or print a better fan duct that allows for more cooling air to reach the print; many fan ducts are too convergent, the pressure increase is then too big for the fan to effectively push air through it).
The other answers have addressed the heat problem. The other risk is that a rod printed vertically like this is prone to snap, because the weakest axis is between layers.
I often rotate pieces like this and print with the rod horizontal. You then have to remove the support and/or brim material, and probably do a bit of sanding to get it properly round, but the final part will be much more reliable (not break).
Yes strength can be a problem, I've printed such parts with room for a screw to strengthen the part. But if that is not possible, a change in print orientation might be very helpful!
The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either:
Print several. This is the most simple solution and best for beginners.
Increase cooling. A better cooling solution or increased fan speed often can help to get thin or delicate objects printed.
set minimum layer time to slow down the printer automatically on layers with low cross-sections. If too small, it could pause on the edge of the print, which could leave scorch marks.
If you know a little more about your printer and got your retraction dialed in, you can go more advanced: set minimum layer time to 10 to 15 seconds and activate the accompanying Z-hop. This will prevent the scorch marks, but you might need to make sure you don't string.
This way the part has a chance to cool down between printing layers.
Although you are correct, adding Z-hop introduces the chance of a leaking/oozing hotend or filament not being extruded in time, that would not be my personal preferred solution for people starting using 3D printers for the first time.
I'm sorry for the long time I took to answer, but the ammount of NEW problems I faced since started this question was so big that wanted to write a list of them before answering my own question. I've finally also desisted from the list, as the problems tends towards infinity.
Simple version: printing more than a single item did the trick, as several people proposed here. But then the piece broke when tried to remove it from the hot bed, as somebody else also warned me here. By that time I tried a temp tower, had to recalibrate almost the whole printer, had to also relubricate it, had to learn some tricks about sticking and de-sticking pieces from the bed, tried several different glues, started to fine-tune my slicings, and so on and so on... man, 3D printing is laborious.
But I wanted to let this link here for all the fellow newbies out there reading this.
https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/
That was exactly the kind of document I was looking for online as a newcomer to this world, and I'm sure it will be useful for a lot of people.
Thanks everybody.
another good source for print troubleshooting: https://rigid.ink/pages/ultimate-troubleshooting-guide
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8480 | Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
When printing cube.gcode using Pronterface I get:
Print started at: 23:07:31
After 8 seconds I get:
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
What is the reason?
How can I see logs?
Additional information:
I connected only three motors, and set the following in Configuration.h of Marlin Firmware:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 999
...
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 999
...
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
...
(Also for min max for XYZ)
In 8 second X motor and Z motor were running.
This is the link to G-Code print file (cube.gcode).
I'm using Marlin 1.1.x on a Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 without endstops.
Hi, welcome to 3D Printing.SE! The question is a little terse to answer, please add what exactly happens in the 8 seconds? Does the printhead home to the limit switches? Does it try to heat up the nozzle?
To find the reason, we need more info. E.g. o you have end stops? And do you home the axes in the G-code. Adding a link to the G-code file could be helpful!
Could you please help me understand "I connected only three motors." An FDM 3D printer usually has at least 4 motors, three to cover the 3 x-y-z degrees of freedom, and the extruder.
I did it only for test purposes.
Your G-code file contains the G28 command to home the printer, as you do not have endstops, execution of this command fails. If you do not use endstops, you should never home the printer, instead you must position the print head at the origin yourself (generally this would be at coordinate [x=0, y=0, z="paper thickness"]) and remove homing commands from your G-code file.
It helped. But I detect new problem. https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8482/after-some-time-stepper-motor-is-hot
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8263 | Ender 3 print is skipping and dragging up base print lines
I have only been able to get my prints this far. They just can’t stop skipping pulling material up towards the nozzle which then melts pulls of another random bit. At first I thought it was motor skipping, so I strengthened the spring, but even after that and calibrating the bed, I couldn’t figure out exactly how to fix this issue. Hopefully someone has some idea what is wrong.
Your question comes down to insufficient bed adhesion, there are a lot of questions related to that issue. You could start with proper leveling and nozzle to bed distance or using a glue stick.
Don't overlap the blue tape, that is REALLY bad. Some lines do seem to overlap. And I was much happier with the BuildTak clone than I could ever be with the blue tape. Plus,if you really want to work with blue tape, pay it down in the Y direction, so the edges don'T scrub at the frame and induce layer shifting.
It's probably bed adhesion, and that can be related to bed temperature, accuracy of Z-axis zeroing, correct extrusion rate for first layer...
@Trish - Most things I've read suggest putting the tape at an angle to the bed. Definitely should NOT be overlapped, though.
What temperatures/type of plastic are you using?
I’m using PLA at 205 with a bed heat at 60. It’s what I was told I should use, so I figured that would work.
Thank you guys for your input, I will try your fixes as soon as I get some free time and let you know which of them was the right fix
It's all black magic, and best settings are machine-dependent. I've heard from other forums that any temp above 50C will reduce the adhesive strength of the blue tape. It depends a lot on the accuracy of the temperature sensor and the uniformity of temperature across the print bed.
So, contrary to what people were saying, my problem came from my spring that controlled filament flow. There was too much tension and it caused motor skipping. I did get rid of the overlap with the blue tape, but otherwise I had to clamp down my spring and that fixed the issue.
I would get rid of the blue tape and go with glass and hairspray. Glass gives you more of a flat surface. You are printing with the aluminum build plate which over time c
an warp. The glass with give you a much flatter and level surface to print om. Blue Tape is actually not a great surface to print on. Hairspray using a chemical compound that actually is related to a PLA makeup. This compound in Aquanet Hairspray will bond to the PLA and release when cold. Using both the glass and hairspray will give you and even build plate and a clean smooth surface that it will stick to better than blue tape.
Hi Aaron, and welcome to SE 3D Printing! Whilst your answer may be technically correct, it is rather terse, and, as such, it has been recommended for deletion, unfortunately. If you could expand it then you may get a more positive response. I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted answers to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to answering questions, in particular [answer], and take the [tour] for more information on how stack exchange works. Thanks :-)
the "chemical compound" in hairspray is PVA, which is the same material as in PVA filament, wood glue, glue stick and 3d Lac
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8397 | Using hardboard for 3D printer enclosure; what is the temperature rating of hardboard?
I am looking for the temperature rating for hardboard. I want to use that as the base for my printer enclosure.
It has proven incredible hard get a ball-park figure from Google.
So, what is the maximum safe temperature for a hardboard panel at long term? (considering a print job can easily take 6 hours).
PS: if you have used a hardboard to build your enclosure, your experience might be helpful.
You are just wanting to use it as the enclosure? No hot parts should be touching it, right?
@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2, right. No hot parts in direct contact with it (but close to some stepper motors, like 10-20mm apart).
Hardboard is called Masonite here in the States because that is the trade name of the product. If you look up the Material Safety Data Sheet you will see Masonite it states the following (Section 5):
Auto-ignition Temperature (°C): >200 degrees Celsius
In Section 7, it states:
These boards are flammable but difficult to ignite.
Furthermore in Section 10, it states:
Conditions to avoid: Avoid sources of radiant heat and flame; and avoid sparks and sources of ignition in all electrical equipment, including dust extraction equipment.
Avoid excessive build up of dust from boards.
The hot end works of printers are neither radiant heat, nor flames, nor sparks. Yes, you'll have a buildup of heat within the working confines of an enclosure, but if you are only using it for a base there should be absolutely no issues. If you were to build an entire enclosure from hardboard, you could put a thermal probe inside with the printer to ensure it doesn't get too hot, but realistically, it will never get hot enough within the enclosure to light the hardboard on fire.
Yes. Thanks. I have to do the thermal probe + smoke detector. The rest of the enclosure is going to be plexiglass (whose glass transaction temperature can start ~85 celsius). I am only printing PLA, so it would be a severe malfunction to bring the inside "ambient" temperature of the enclosure so high.
Masonite or hardboard is a high-density board without a resin. It is listed at around 200 to 275 °C for its autoignition temperature. Just for comparison, let's look at similar products.
Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is similar to hardboard but bonded with a resin, offering a smoother surface and is listed at 200 to 275 °C, so pretty close.
The heavier High-density fiberboard variant is listed with about the same temperatures of about 200 to 275 °C.
Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is listed at 200 to 260 °C.
Conclusion
All the materials have very similar autoignition temperatures, so none of them particularly shines over the other. Using a proper fire safety procedure is highly encouraged, even though the ambient temperature in the enclosure should not reach even close to the 200 °C unless the printer has a freak accident and catches fire itself.
A smoke detector is a must.
Some kind of cooling method that keeps the inside at a temperature down is highly encouraged. A simple temperature activated fan might help in this.
Lining the inside of the box with a thicker aluminium or copper tape can help to even out the temperature over the surfaces faster, preventing the formation of hotspots that might otherwise reach dangerous temperatures. Copper tapes are more expensive than Aluminium tapes but have a better heat transfer coefficient.1
Including an automatic fire suppression system could be an option.
1 - The RS Catalogue was just chosen for ease of navigation. McMaster Carr does list special heat shielding tape in both thin and aluminium as well as copper and aluminium foil tapes. I am not affiliated to either.
Definite plus for lining the box- if you use aluminum foil, make sure it's "shiny side up" as that will miminize heat transfer to the Masonite sheet.
@CarlWitthoft I would not use the standard foil but something thicker like real Aluminium tape (RS catalogue for variety of brands and types), that is far thicker
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8387 | Extruder retracts filament while moving from default start line to actual object location
I am new to 3D printing and recently got a second hand RF1000 and am busy calibrating it. For this I want to print a basic calibration cube. I noticed the print doesn't always start with enough filament in the nozzle. To make sure the starting point for all prints are the same I added this G-Code in the CuraEngine settings:
G92 E0 ; start line
G1 F300 E-0.5
G1 X230 Y22 Z0.35 F5000
G1 F800 E13
G1 X20 E25 F1000
This works however after this the slicer automatically adds G-Code to move the extruder to the skirt location. This should be fine however I noticed that during the last part of this movement it retracts filament. This causes the start of the actual print to fail. What causes this and how can I change my settings to prevent this?
Thanks for any help or advice you can give!
Below is the G-Code from start until the end of the skirt.
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 15.01
; Default start code
G28 ; Home extruder
G1 Z15 F100
M107 ; Turn off fan
G90 ; Absolute positioning
M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode
M190 S60
; Activate all used extruder
M104 T0 S210
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position
; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature
M109 T0 S210
G92 E0 ; start line
G1 F300 E-0.5
G1 X230 Y22 Z0.35 F5000
G1 F800 E13
G1 X20 E25 F1000
;Layer count: 199
;LAYER:0
M106 S127
G0 F9000 X80.200 Y80.200 Z0.200
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F1800 X119.800 Y80.200 E0.44818
G1 X119.800 Y119.800 E0.89636
G1 X80.200 Y119.800 E1.34454
G1 X80.200 Y80.200 E1.79272
G0 F9000 X80.600 Y80.600
G1 F1800 X119.400 Y80.600 E2.23185
G1 X119.400 Y119.400 E2.67097
G1 X80.600 Y119.400 E3.11010
G1 X80.600 Y80.600 E3.54923
G0 F9000 X81.000 Y81.000
G1 F1800 X119.000 Y81.000 E3.97930
G1 X119.000 Y119.000 E4.40937
G1 X81.000 Y119.000 E4.83944
G1 X81.000 Y81.000 E5.26951
G0 F9000 X81.400 Y81.400
G1 F1800 X118.600 Y81.400 E5.69053
G1 X118.600 Y118.600 E6.11155
G1 X81.400 Y118.600 E6.53257
G1 X81.400 Y81.400 E6.95359
G0 F9000 X81.800 Y81.800
G1 F1800 X118.200 Y81.800 E7.36555
G1 X118.200 Y118.200 E7.77751
G1 X81.800 Y118.200 E8.18948
G1 X81.800 Y81.800 E8.60144
G0 F9000 X82.200 Y82.200
G1 F1800 X117.800 Y82.200 E9.00435
G1 X117.800 Y117.800 E9.40726
G1 X82.200 Y117.800 E9.81017
G1 X82.200 Y82.200 E10.21308
G0 F9000 X82.600 Y82.600
G1 F1800 X117.400 Y82.600 E10.60693
G1 X117.400 Y117.400 E11.00079
G1 X82.600 Y117.400 E11.39465
G1 X82.600 Y82.600 E11.78850
G0 F9000 X83.000 Y83.000
G1 F1800 X117.000 Y83.000 E12.17330
G1 X117.000 Y117.000 E12.55810
G1 X83.000 Y117.000 E12.94290
G1 X83.000 Y83.000 E13.32771
G0 F9000 X83.400 Y83.400
G1 F1800 X116.600 Y83.400 E13.70345
G1 X116.600 Y116.600 E14.07920
G1 X83.400 Y116.600 E14.45495
G1 X83.400 Y83.400 E14.83069
G0 F9000 X83.800 Y83.800
G1 F1800 X116.200 Y83.800 E15.19739
G1 X116.200 Y116.200 E15.56408
G1 X83.800 Y116.200 E15.93077
G1 X83.800 Y83.800 E16.29747
G0 F9000 X84.200 Y84.200
G1 F1800 X115.800 Y84.200 E16.65511
G1 X115.800 Y115.800 E17.01274
G1 X84.200 Y115.800 E17.37038
G1 X84.200 Y84.200 E17.72802
G0 F9000 X84.600 Y84.600
G1 F1800 X115.400 Y84.600 E18.07661
G1 X115.400 Y115.400 E18.42519
G1 X84.600 Y115.400 E18.77378
G1 X84.600 Y84.600 E19.12236
G0 F9000 X85.000 Y85.000
G1 F1800 X115.000 Y85.000 E19.46189
G1 X115.000 Y115.000 E19.80142
G1 X85.000 Y115.000 E20.14095
G1 X85.000 Y85.000 E20.48048
G0 F9000 X85.400 Y85.400
G1 F1800 X114.600 Y85.400 E20.81096
G1 X114.600 Y114.600 E21.14144
G1 X85.400 Y114.600 E21.47191
G1 X85.400 Y85.400 E21.80239
G0 F9000 X85.800 Y85.800
G1 F1800 X114.200 Y85.800 E22.12381
G1 X114.200 Y114.200 E22.44523
G1 X85.800 Y114.200 E22.76665
G1 X85.800 Y85.800 E23.08808
G0 F9000 X86.200 Y86.200
G1 F1800 X113.800 Y86.200 E23.40045
G1 X113.800 Y113.800 E23.71281
G1 X86.200 Y113.800 E24.02518
G1 X86.200 Y86.200 E24.33755
G0 F9000 X86.600 Y86.600
G1 F1800 X113.400 Y86.600 E24.64086
G1 X113.400 Y113.400 E24.94418
G1 X86.600 Y113.400 E25.24749
G1 X86.600 Y86.600 E25.55081
G0 F9000 X87.000 Y87.000
G1 F1800 X113.000 Y87.000 E25.84507
G1 X113.000 Y113.000 E26.13932
G1 X87.000 Y113.000 E26.43358
G1 X87.000 Y87.000 E26.72784
G0 F9000 X87.400 Y87.400
G1 F1800 X112.600 Y87.400 E27.01305
G1 X112.600 Y112.600 E27.29826
G1 X87.400 Y112.600 E27.58346
G1 X87.400 Y87.400 E27.86867
G0 F9000 X87.800 Y87.800
G1 F1800 X112.200 Y87.800 E28.14482
G1 X112.200 Y112.200 E28.42097
G1 X87.800 Y112.200 E28.69712
G1 X87.800 Y87.800 E28.97327
G0 F9000 X88.200 Y88.200
G1 F1800 X111.800 Y88.200 E29.24037
G1 X111.800 Y111.800 E29.50747
G1 X88.200 Y111.800 E29.77457
G1 X88.200 Y88.200 E30.04166
G0 F9000 X88.600 Y88.600
G1 F1800 X111.400 Y88.600 E30.29971
G1 X111.400 Y111.400 E30.55775
G1 X88.600 Y111.400 E30.81579
G1 X88.600 Y88.600 E31.07384
G0 F9000 X89.000 Y89.000
G1 F1800 X111.000 Y89.000 E31.32282
G1 X111.000 Y111.000 E31.57181
G1 X89.000 Y111.000 E31.82080
G1 X89.000 Y89.000 E32.06979
G0 F9000 X89.400 Y89.400
G1 F1800 X110.600 Y89.400 E32.30973
G1 X110.600 Y110.600 E32.54966
G1 X89.400 Y110.600 E32.78960
G1 X89.400 Y89.400 E33.02953
G0 F9000 X89.800 Y89.800
G1 F1800 X110.200 Y89.800 E33.26041
G1 X110.200 Y110.200 E33.49129
G1 X89.800 Y110.200 E33.72217
G1 X89.800 Y89.800 E33.95305
G0 F9000 X90.600 Y90.600
Hi Stefan, welcome to 3D Printing.SE! Please define This causes the start of the actual print to fail. Priming blobs are very useful indeed, they are commonly used. After the blob the filament should retract, the head moves and then extrudes to fill the cavity in the nozzle again.
Hi Oscar, thanks for your response. The problem is that the filament retracts while moving from priming to actual print. This causes there to be no filament loaded in the extruder when the actual print starts
The problem is that you prime the nozzle, but don't reset the filament length.
With your last priming action:
G1 X20 E25 F1000
You deposit a line that is followed by a move to the start of the skirt:
G0 F9000 X80.200 Y80.200 Z0.200
The printing of the start of the skirt is done by:
G1 F1800 X119.800 Y80.200 E0.44818
Notice the E term in your final priming line and the skirt print command; it goes from E25 to E0.44818, as these specify absolute movement, this results in a retraction of about 24.5 mm. What you should do is implement a G92 E0 after your last priming command to fix this incorrect retraction behavior.
Please also do note that you are using a very old version of the CuraEngine, maybe it is possible to update to a newer version as well; depending on the slicer you use.
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7609 | "Missing" rows on 64x128 LCD after flashing Marlin 1.1.9 onto Monoprice Maker Select v2
I've successfully flashed Marlin 1.1.9 onto a Melzi v3.5 board (the stock board for my Monoprice Maker Select v2 (v2.1?, a white-labelled Wanhao i3 Duplicator).
Initially after the flash succeeded the LCD displayed was "garbled". The right side, in particular, had lots of pixels out of place. I was able to resolve this by experimenting with some delay variables. Prior to the flash the LCD was 100 % working; to my knowledge no damage happened while I had the machine apart.
Here's my changes to Configuration.h from Marlin 1.1.9, excluding anything to do with X/Y/Z/E, etc (irrelevant stuff).
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MELZI
#define SDSUPPORT
#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION
//
// LCD for Melzi Card with Graphical LCD
//
#define LCD_FOR_MELZI
// Increase delays to fix garbled LCD
#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(0)
#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(100)
#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(200)
The display is much better, however there are about 4x rows of pixels through center of the display running left to right that mostly don't display. There are little sections--perhaps 20x pixels (maybe 3%) that do appear to be displaying.
Here's a photo of the problem:
Are there any other typical culprits? Based on what I've read it sounds like this is a recent(ish) issue with Marlin, and perhaps would be solved with an older version or a different firmware.
Here's a photo, if you look closely you can see the 'dead' rows, with about 6x pixels work
PS. While troubleshooting I added shielding to the LCD's ribbon cable (foil wrapping the cable, grounded, and wrapped with electrical tape). It didn't help, but I left it on.
Possibly unrelated to the firmware? This happened to me when I tightened the mount screws on the LCD, after I backed them off a bit it was fine.
Also, I was planning on updating the firmware on mine as well, any chance you can supply your full Configuration.h?
You know, I think you're right! I haven't opened up the case to try loosening screws, but I pushed gently around the edges of the LCD from the outside and it did seem to improve things. I'll see if I can dig up Configuration.h later today.
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8297 | Hooking up an optocoupler in a 24V Machine, is a 2 kOhm resistor sufficient?
I am going to buy an inductive probe for my Creality Ender 3 to enable ABL (Automatic Bed Leveling). And now, I have one last question left on my mind:
I am going to buy a Vishay Optokoppler Phototransistor SFH610A-1 DIP-4 Transistor DC.
Is it sufficient to put a 2 - 2.2 kΩ resistor between the input of the octocouplers LED side and the 24 V Output of the probe, to lower the current and voltage enough to work with the octocoupler? Or do I need something else?
On the transistor side, I will simply attach the 2 wire Z-endstop cable, +5 V on Collector and GND on Emitter.
Possible duplicate of Inductive Sensor in 24 V machine?
Capacitive sensor trigger distance depends on the amount of moisture in the air and as such are not very accurate for a range of operating conditions. A 3D touch sensor is more reliable when using glass. Furthermore, using a higher voltage for powering the sensor has been asked before
Ok, so, I should use an inductive sensor then, right? Because, I do not have other options.
Additionally, I know that there are similar questions, but I am unable to answer to them. So sorry for making a new thread :/
Ok, last question then: I am going to buy the mentioned octocoupler. Is it sufficient to put a 2 - 2,2 k Ohm resistor between the input of the octocouplers LED side and the 24V Output of the probe, to lower the current and voltage enough to work with the octocoupler?
ok, with the changes it is clearly a different question - though I would use a proper optocoupler board...
Where do I get a proper optocoupler board from? I am somewhat limited to conrad.de and maybe ebay.de and amazon.de
TL;DR
Yes, a 2 kΩ resistor is sufficient to limit the current to about 12 mA through the optocoupler. With a maximum current specification of 60 mA you require at least 400 Ω; any resistor in between the values should be suitable for this optocoupler component when used at 24 V. More information is found below.
Having a glass bed and using an inductive probe may not work optimally. In such cases a 3D touch sensor is a very good alternative. For inductive sensors, remember that these sensors optimally detect steel, aluminium is harder to detect (about 60 % less than iron; a glass sheet in between the bed and the sensor requires you to acquire a sensor with a large detection range, e.g. 8 mm or more. To optimize the detection distance such sensors need to be powered to the maximum voltage they can handle (usually 36 V) or the highest voltage you have available (e.g. power supply 12 or 24 V). To protect the board, that is only allowed to receive up to 5 V, an optocoupler is an excellent way to guarantee the separation of voltage levels.
Considering your questions, it is fair to assume you are not an experienced electronics tinkerer, purchasing an optocoupler module is the best alternative, you just screw the wires into the respective input screw terminals as shown in this answer.
As the optocoupler separates two circuits, you can safely use 24 V on the one side and the 5 V on the other side, you do not need an additional resistor when you use a module board. If you plan to buy separate components to build your own circuit, you need to look at the maximum current that the optocoupler can handle on the input side (that will be 24 V). From the documentation from the optocoupler one reads that it is limited to 60 mA. A maximum current would therefore require a resistor of:
$$ R=\frac{U}{I}=\frac{24}{60\times10^{-3}}=400\ \Omega $$
My 12 V optocoupler module uses a 1 kΩ resistor implying a 12 mA current. In your case allowing 12 mA of current yields a 2 kΩ resistor.
Ok, so when I understand this correctly, I do not need to use as much as 2 k Ohms, as e.g. 400 Ohms would already be enough. However, it should be better for the optocoupler, if I use some more resistance, isn't it? I would say, 1 k Ohm should be a good value... As I do not want the maximum of 60 mA to flow.
One question to the linked thread and the wiring: There they connected the Black Signal Wire and the Golden +12V Wire to the input of the optocoupler. Why is this? I mean, I want Signal and GND, don't I??
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8313 | PLA wood filament: a special treatment?
PLA wood has a beautiful natural texture that I wanted to try. But when I used it in my second print, it clogged the nozzle (solved). I know this filament is composed of 70 % PLA and 30 % recycled pine wood fibers.
Are there special indications for this kind of filament?
Should I modify the temperature, or other settings?
Related: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/14402
PLA and wood fibres = wood filament
Most wood filamet consists of about 60-70 % PLA and 40-30 % wood fibres. This basically implies that PLA temperatures should be used. It can be printed with standard 0.4 mm nozzles, but it is adviced to be printed with a larger diameter nozzle. A larger nozzle will less likely to cause nozzles to clog (more area for the fibres to pass through).
Basic printing advice
Start experimenting with relatively large layer heights (0.25-0.3 mm layer heights). Printing speeds should be held high to ensure relative short residence times in the hot end (in the range 50-80 mm/s). Short residence times prevent degradation by heat resulting in clogging. It is best for wood fibres filled filaments to not have the filament to stagnate (e.g. pausing). A higher retraction speed and distance might be needed because the filament usually is a little more runny compared to plain PLA.
Beware
After printing, you should retract the filament from the hotend so that during next printing jobs heat up cycle, the filament doesn't degrade and clogs the nozzle. Alter the end script G-code and also use priming scripts at the start and/or do not forget to use a large skirt of multiple lines or a considerable length. As always, you shouldn't leave the printer unattended, regularly check the printer and shut down the printer when there is something wrong, e.g. not extruding. Also note that wood filled filament is reported to be abrasive to brass nozzles, a (hardened) steel nozzle or a Ruby nozzle should mitigate wear problems.
Basic settings
These settings have proven to work, but are not a guarantee, these settings should provide a reference to start experimenting on your own printer:
Temperature: 190-205 °C
Layerheight: 0.25 mm
Speed: 50 mm/s
Minimal layertime: 8 s
Bowden type extruder
Retraction speed: 40 mm/s
Retraction distance: 5.5 mm
Direct extruder
Retraction speed: 25 mm/s
Retraction distance: 1.3 mm
I would add that deliberate changes of hotend temperature during a print can cause varied darkening of the extruded material (carbonization), and if done well looks almost like grain lines in real wood.
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8334 | Anet A8 stops printing
I have an issue with my Anet A8 printer and how it interlocks with Ultimaker Cura.
I want to print this file named Loki_hörner_v2.stland Cura slices it fine, but when it comes to printing all the preheat happens, but then it stops, not going on at all. What might be wrong here?
Special characters like Ä Ö or Ü in the stl-filename resulted in Ultimaker Cura creating a comment of the filename in the g-code that read like
;MESH:Loki_hörner_v2.stl
This apparently could not be parsed by the Anet A8, leading to an error and halt.
It's great that you found and shared the answer. Did you get it to work by removing the character with umlauts?
@Davo yes, after removing/replacing the umlaut in the stl-filename, reslicing it, it works. (i did not test to manually remove the umlauts from the gcode manually, but I have a strong believe that this would work too)
Avoid naming .gcode files with non-ASCII characters
(this includes EASCII)
I know of no firmware on a printer that can handle files that have characters not present in the set of 95 non-control American Standard Code for Information Interchange characters by default. Marlin, for example, can't process the characters ä ö ü & € as these all are missing in the ASCII.
Avoid having more than one .
Nowadays the . is no longer a fully reserved character in file names, so a file can be named 0.5mm Gauge Block.stl on Windows without problems.
Ultimaker Cura will cut the name at the . before the extension when generating the .gcode. This is mainly done to prevent tons of errors that could crop up in firmware that might not be able to deal with it. Remember that this behavior can lead to overwriting files - our 0.5mm Gauge Block.stl would generate 0.gcode, as would 0.1.5 Penholder.stl (that follows a version naming convention).
Avoid reserved characters
Also note that some characters are reserved in file naming and will lead to other errors (mainly when trying to create the files in the first place), including, but not limited to, / \ : ? *.
Agreed - I always convert "my_part_reduce0.5" to "my_part_reduce0p5" for that reason.
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8325 | Printrboard Rev. D. 3.3 V source
I am looking for a 3.3 V power source in the Printrboard Rev. D pins.
I think there should be one somewhere... I do not know how to read the schematics that well.
Also, I am going to connect an HC-06, which draws 45 mA or less during operation. So, I need to know if it safe to get the power from the 3.3 V rail (if I find it).
So, the questions are:
Which one is the 3.3 V pin?
And how much current can I draw from it?
To whoever comes after me: I do not think the 3.3 V rail is accessible in this board. You could tap from the 5 V rail, but in my case I do not think it makes sense. The LM2841 is what is used to convert from 12 V to 5 V, and that seems to be able to handle a max of 300 mA. I have no clue about how much is being used at this point... so I think I'll tap directly from the 12 V power supply.
On the schematic, the 3.3v is marked as "U7" and pointed out here:
The 3.3v is marked as pin #2. You can find the three pints from U7 here on the board (blue circle):
I'm not exactly sure if the pins are accessed from the other side of the board, or even if they are marked at all on there. You can always check them with a multimeter to see what their output is. More than likely the bottom single pin is the ground and the top two are one or the other (5v & 3.3v).
As far as amperage draw, I'm thinking 45mA is not a lot of draw, but I'm not an expert. I'd think it should be able to handle it, but again, I really don't know.
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8328 | Why does my printer create notches on the Y surface?
Here is an extreme example of notches caused by the printer. They go along all sides but are the strongest on the Y faces. They also happen quite randomly sometimes they are tiny sometimes they are strong.
I have tightened the belts already and while that reduced the ghosting on the X face a lot, it did nothing on the Y and actually never helped with the notches. This test cube has notches and ripples too but not that strong (the skirting on the bottom of that cube is my fault I set the bed level a little too low).
All models have been sliced with Ultimaker Cura and printed on an Anet A8. Flow = 110 %, layer height of 0.1 mm for the first example and 0.2 mm for the cube, printing temperature = 195 °C, no change on jerking and acceleration from default settings. Cube size = 20x20x20 mm.
The printer has frame support https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959 but no other upgrades yet.
I see two problems with your printer: your filament seems to overheat in some areas, and you overextrude a little. My suspicion is, that your heating behavior is not well tuned and it overshoots the target temperature, leading to an overcooked filament, then the temperature drops below the temperature you need, leading to a wavy pattern and brown lines.
fixing
I suggest running a PID-tune cycle to get better heating behavior and then recalibrating the printer's extruder.
Does this happen with 195°C temperature too? I thought overcooking only happens on temperatures where PAL begins to boil which is beyond 210°
Also I have underextrusion too sometimes. You can see it on the top of the Y frame, there is a deeper notch. Supportmaterial also often gets underextruded at the beginning of a layer line (I have retraction off btw for that reason).
@user6329530 no, but your thermistor is probably inconsistent, resulting in the temperature swaying between above 210 °C and below 190 °C most likely.
OK I will monitor the temperature on that thing maybe that pid tune works
Also make sure the hotend cooling fan is functioning properly.
While you may very well be having temperature issues, I see two other issues:
First, I think the "notches" are z-wobble. Z-wobble is often caused by bent z-axis threaded rods.
I have a very similar Geeetech I3 printer. A lot of my z-wobble was cleaned up by removing the threaded rods and making them more straight. You can find videos to help you do that, just search for "threaded rod straightening".
The other thing I did was decouple the nut on the threaded rod from the x-carriage assembly, allowing it to float in the X-Y plane as it pushes the x-carriage up. The x-carriage ought to be guided up by the smooth rods/bearings. Unfortunately, if the nut is fixed to the x-carriage, the bent threaded rods are strong enough to over-power the smooth rods/bearings and make the whole assembly wobble.
The other problem I see is that your printer seems to be extruding too much filament. That is likely causing the little pyramid flair at the base of your print. If you tell the printer to extrude 100mm, it ought to extrude 100mm, not 110mm. Again, a search for "extruder calibration" will tell you how to do it. For me it involved extruding, measuring, a bit of math, adjusting some variables in Marlin, compiling and uploading the with Arduino IDE. Repeat until 100mm extrudes 100mm.
The resulting prints show more positional accuracy than Z-wobble, for Z-wobble it is too random and not in sync with pitch of the threads. But this can indeed cause a lot of problems for some 3D printers.
@Oscar, I see what you're saying. It doesn't have the saw-tooth kind of thing, but there does appear to be a period of about 10 layers to the anomaly. If it does have anything to do with the threaded rods, it is easy to see by watching the rods while moving the z-axis 100mm.
I noticed that thermistors provided with Chinese kits are not up to specs. Do yourself a favor and go to mouser or digikey and order a proper thermistor that is rated for the temperature range in question.
Hi, you make a good point, but we strongly urge answers to include a link to a part (or software, or whatever) which meets the requirements you propose.
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8214 | M12 vs M18 V5 inductive probe
I currently have my printrbot with a LJ12A3-4-Z/BX-5V Inductive Proximity Sensor ( 61mm M12 DC 5V NPN NO 300mA)
That detects my aluminium bed at around 1.2 mm distance. While it works, if the printer does the smallest blob the probe crashes into it.
I am considering replacing the probe by the M18 version LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V (
M18 8mm DC 5V NPN NO 300mA).
I haven't been able to find real specs for these probes (apart from what the sellers put in eBay or AliExpress - which I do not trust).
Will I get a larger detection distance with the M18 version of the 5 V probe? (I wonder if the M18 version is exactly the same M12 version with a larger casing).
Or should I move to the 6-36 V versions of the probes - I do not want to do that to not modify my wiring.
The larger the diameter and the higher the voltage the larger the detection distance. You do not need to do much wire modification if you use an optocoupler, see this anwer.
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8184 | Move print bed to front at the end of a print rather than the back
I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, currently using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 with the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. Right now when a print finishes, the bed retreats towards the back of the machine. I'd rather present the bed forward for easier part removal.
Here is my ending G-Code:
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
It looks like I need to change that G28 line third from the bottom, but I'm not sure what to change it to. I've not yet done any g-code manipulation of my own. I don't know what units it's using, and it looks like it still has relative positioning, so even then I don't know it's a good idea to just set it for the max size of the bed.
So how can I change this code to move the bed as I want?
Note that this reference states that:
Because the behavior of G28 is unspecified, it is recommended not to automatically include G28 in your ending GCode. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use G0 or G1.
So you need to use a G0 or G1 move.
When using Ultimaker Cura (like many other slicers), there is built in functionality known as keywords with a complete list found here.
The keyword machine_depth is the one that is of use to you, embed this in your end G-code in between curly brackets and it will expand to the bed size of your machine (replacing G28 X0 Y0):
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth}
For me this compiles to (e.g. for my coreXY printer):
G1 X0 Y300
To set the speed, just add the following command prior to the one above:
G1 F2500
Adding this line before the actual move ensures that the speed is constant, if F2500 would have been included in the move command (like G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} F2500), this defines the end speed, it would start moving at the last speed value prior to the move.
This results in adding the following lines in your endscript:
G1 F2500
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth}
You're correct that the G28 line should be changed. What I would do is the following:
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 ;move X to min endstop, so the head is out of the way
G90 ;absolute positioning
G1 Y200 ;Move bed forward
M84 ;steppers off
This way your X axis still gets homed after the Z bumps up and before Y moves to present the print.
G28 is the command to home the print head. Your current settings homes the X and Y axes. G1 is a linear movement. One caveat to this change in G-Code is that there needs to be a home command at the start of your prints since you're not homing afterwards anymore. (I believe most slicers default to a G28 at the start AND end of prints so it's not a major concern, but one to be wary of now just in case.)
Cool. What do I use for the max Y value, given a 200mm bed? Is it just 200? And why G1 instead of G28?
@JoelCoehoorn Sorry, having a caffeine crash and brain farted those particulars. Edited answer to clarify.
@JoelCoehoorn You can do even better and use the actual bed size, I'll show you in an answer.
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8229 | Infill is rough - how to enhance?
My i3 MK3 is printing very well for solid parts of an object, but it messes up with infill.
As you can see in the image, the infill is broken into pieces and bends to that the surface becomes rough and the nozzle touches it next time it moves there, which probably does not make things better.
I've read the Prusa problem page, where they suggest three solutions:
change infill type
flexible filament (I'm using PETG, so this does not apply)
lower printing speed
I'm printing with 20% infill and I believe that this worked before at the same speed, so I'm tempted to say that both remaining options are options, but it should work without them.
It also seems to me as if the infill is thinner that ordinary walls. Is the extrusion speed lower in case of infill? Is there a way of changing the extrusion speed for infill?
Side note: my printer always tells me to upgrade to the latest firmware 3.5.1. Since I have just received the printer back from a warranty repair after the last firmware upgrade, I don't want to upgrade the firmware. Could the issue be related to firmware?
Infos requested from comments:
I'm basically using the Slic3r default settings for PETG. The only thing I adjusted is the temperature, since I'm using HDGlass PETG and there was a recommended temperature written on the spool. Relevant settings seem to be
Filament settings
fan speed min 30 % max 50 %
bridges fan speed 50 %
enable fan below 20 s
slow down below 20 s
min print speed 15 mm/s
Speed settings
Perimenters 45 mm/s
Small perimeters 25 mm/s
External perimeters 35 mm/s
Infill 200 mm/s
Solid infill 200 mm/s
Top solid infill 50 mm/s
what makes smooth infill desireable?
@Trish: a) less noise of the nozzle scratching over the rough infill, making me feel uncomfortable that it might just tear down the whole thing. b) Stability of the final product as expected. c) After the infill, the will finally be a solid top. That top will look ugly when printed over a rough surface. Do you have that problem as well and you just leave it like that?
have you tried different infils? I like 3D infil, like gyroid or cubic. I know that some linear infils (triangle or square) sometimes do that as the lines pass over themselves.
Sure, I can try a different infill. I just don't understand why it works once and it does not work now. I'd like to have reproducible prints that work at first print. Otherwise it's a waste of material, energy and money. I don't want to pollute the environment trying new infills which might or might not work.
how does the infill print speed compare to the perimeter print speed? If the infill speed is appreciably higher you will have failed bonding between layers, which is somewhat how it appears in the image provided. PETG likes reduced cooling, from my understanding (limited) which might also point to cooling fan speed comparison.
From your comments can be read that you print infill at 200 mm/s.
Know that 200 mm/s is ridiculously fast (like high travelling speed), close to the limits of printing on certain machines (for an AtMega)! It is hard for the filament to keep up at this speed. A value of 60 mm/s would be a good value to start experimenting. Your infill is not rough, it just failed printing. I have printed kilometers of PETG, normal print speeds for my PETG are recommended at 30-50 mm/s by my manufacturer; I get good results at 50-60 mm/s. On my Ultimaker 3, 70 mm/s is also feasible.
Note that the filament you use seems to have rather low printing temperatures (195-225 °C) as opposed to the PETG filament (co-polymer) I'm used to. The manufacturer does not specify advised print speeds (other than "high", but what defines "high"?), but this user posted some of his print settings for this material. The overall speed of 60 mm/s seems to support lower than 200 mm/s print speeds.
Ridiculously fast - well, it was the default setting for PET. Is there a way to save this setting as part of the filament definition? At the moment I can only find this as part of the print settings, which means I always need to adjust this. However, I'd like to ensure that I decrease the infill speed every time I use PET as the filament.
@ThomasWeller Just change it and save it. At least that is possible in default Slic3r or Ultimaker Cura.
60 mm/s improved much. 50 mm/s is almost perfect. Great to see that I don't have to decrease the overall printing speed.
I have dealt with this on infill as well on multiple MK3s.
However, it was not the speed itself, but the hot end having difficulty extruding enough to keep up with the infill.
Some things to try:
Raise hot end temperature 5 degrees (melt filament faster)
Lower infill speed, it will not affect your overall print time very much (surprisingly)
A combination of the two above.
Good luck!
Yes, temperature does make an effect, certainly when you are using 2.85 mm filament, that needs more time to melt through to the core. But from experience I found that still with raising the temperature you hit a limit causing the line width to be smaller than intended. But a good additional answer! I wondered to add that myself yesterday, but limited the answer to the IMHO high extrusion speed. Welcome at 3D Printing.SE!
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8218 | What calibration options should I look into given these defects
I printed a temperature calibration cuboid for Hatchbox 1.75 mm PLA, in 1 °C increments from 180 °C to 190 °C.
I have two questions related to this image:
I'm not seeing any difference in quality across the temperature range. Am I just way off base and need to be substantially higher?
How do I get rid of the small layer shifts you can see across the board?
Printed on a RepRapGuru Prusa MK2 clone.
Most slicers/printers use Celsius and not Fahrenheit for temps. If you are running things in F (Fahrenheit), you're running your temps way too low. You should be running PLA around 200 °C. At 180 °F, this is ~82 °C ... I'm betting you mean you are extruding at 180 °C ... still, this is pretty low, even for PLA. I'd suggest running your temps from 195 °C to 210 °C and checking the difference.
Woops. Yes, typo - C, not F.
Even so, 180-190 is usually pretty low for print temps using PLA ... just a thought.
Fair. I was under the impression that you want to go as low as you can without extrusion issues. Is that not the case? And will this address the unevenness I'm seeing?
Couldn't what you are seeing be considered extrusion issues? Try it, as what do you have to lose but a little time and filament.
Sure. I'm referring to what looks like unevenness or layers along the corners of the print.
Your print does not suffer from layer shifts as you call them. This uneven layer deposition is typically caused by the (positioning) accuracy of your printer. All-in-all, this print does not look so bad. You would get better quality prints on a different style of a printer; most high-end printers have a lowering platform instead of a forth and back moving platform.
Although 180 °C is at the low side of printing PLA (usually it starts at about 185 °C), the print does look okay. However, looks can deceive, it does not say anything about structural integrity (layer bonding).
Note, to calibrate the temperature using a temperature tower, you need a different calibration test print, preferably one that tests overhang. This latter is usually far more important as there is normally not much to see at the walls, you need a slanting part in the print or an overhang to determine the optimal temperature.
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8250 | Monoprice Maker Select v2 stops extruding after about 200-300 mm
I've done a fair bit of looking around for an answer and have yet been unable to find one.
So here is my problem, after about 200-300 mm of extrusion, the PLA stops coming through the nozzle. When I pull the PLA out it looks like this. There are teeth marks going up the PLA and end with a small divot. The head of the PLA is slightly thicker than the rest of the PLA; approximately 1.9 mm.
I first noticed this when I thought that only the bottom layer was being printed. I moved to printing a small bullet and I got about halfway through the print before it stopped extruding.
Next I raised the Z position to about 100 mm to give me some room to work and I manually moved the PLA through the extruder with the dial. No problems until I hit the 200 mm mark or so. I've done this test 4 times now and failed at the approximate locations: 208 mm, 280 mm, 250 mm, and 325 mm.
Settings:
Nozzle: 200 °C
Bed: 60 °C
Layer Height: 0.15 mm
Other things I have tried with seemingly no effect:
Turning off/on print cooling
reducing retraction to 2 mm from 6 mm
yelling out in frustration
reformatting the SD card (because who knows?)
brand new filament, older filament, middle aged filament
Welcome to 3dPrinting.SE! Definitely a +1 for yelling at your printer/print :o)
Good that you have told us how much you managed to extrude each time... When you pushed to these points, what did happen? Can you show us a photo of a print-result where it?
Does the extruder stepper try to move? Did you try to push the filament by hand?
Looking at the tread pattern on the filament, I think it's getting stuck. Note that the teeth marks get closer together as you go up the fillament, and the last one is a big divot, that looks like the gear trying to grab at it, and being unable to move it.
Are you seeing any drops in nozzle temp? I had a cooling fan kick in and drop temps low enough to prevent extrusion before.
Edit
From the discussion in the notes, heat creep was identified as a possible culprit, and seems most likely.
good point... clog?
@Trish clog wouldn't have the consistent behavior of working for some amount, then stopping. It's something about the printer's behavior that kicks in.. there's nothing repetitively cumulative about what it does otherwise.
true... a broken nozzle that generates blockage (similar to a clog) or bad heating behavior?
No temperature drops that I was able to notice. It stayed pretty consistent while I was doing the test.
My money's on the heating behavior. A nozzle that misbehaves wouldn't generate FOD, so it should still continue to extrude.
Alternatively - it could be heat creep. If the filament gets too soft by the gear, then it gets harder to push the filament down, and at some temp, impossible.
so, i might have just fixed it. Im doing a test print to see. I think the culprit is heat creep. When I put the print head back together I put the heat sync on backwards. (smart, i know). I think because the heat sync was on backwards it wasnt dissipating the heat as well, so i was getting melt higher up the PLA, which made it too fat to be able to continue extruding. This explains the pattern on the PLA as well.
That would definitely do it.
Did a few test prints and they came out successful! Thank you so much. I guess the heat creep softened the PLA which made it bunch up on one side and made it so that the teeth couldnt push the PLA down.
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10226 | How to connect BLTouch sensor to Alunar M508 using LSEE 3D v1.0 board?
In the process of updating my printer (Alunar M508), I decided to add "Auto Bed Leveling" using a BLTouch sensor. After doing a lot of Googling:
I found firmware that will upload and work with printer in default configuration (without BLTouch)
Adding BLTouch configuration, the software compiles and updates the printer, I see all new options in menu and BLTouch on "power on" does a self test.
I know I have configured the power to the device correctly 2 power sources and ground but where I'm having issues is in identifying Servo0 and ZMax/Min on my board. So far the black and white wire are connected to Z axis "end stop" but I cannot identify where to connect the orange signal wire to. I cannot find pinout anywhere of this board.
The LSEE 3D is basically a RAMPS board (your linked source also shows that the used MOTHERBOARD is a RAMPS board: #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB), this implies that all pins of your board are the same as a RAMPS board. To connect the 3 pin header of the BLTouch sensor you need to connect the red wire to +5 V and the black wire to ground; the orange wire needs to be connected to an available PWM pin. As the LSEE board does not have many exposed (free) pins for you to use, you need to re-use one of the existing PWM pins that you do not use. An example is the pin nr. 2. From the pins_RAMPS.h file you see in the limit switches section:
//
// Limit Switches
//
#define X_MIN_PIN 3
#ifndef X_MAX_PIN
#define X_MAX_PIN 2
#endif
It appears, from the image, that your board does have max limit end stop switches header pins available. What you could do is use the X_MAX_PIN for the BLTouch sensor.
This implies that you need to assign the servo pin to pin nr. 2.
From the servos section of the same pins_RAMPS.h file you see that the servos are either connected to pin 7 or pin 11 (depending on the board, your linked sources use the 1.4 version).
//
// Servos
//
#ifdef IS_RAMPS_13
#define SERVO0_PIN 7 // RAMPS_13 // Will conflict with BTN_EN2 on LCD_I2C_VIKI
#else
#define SERVO0_PIN 11
#endif
Using the linked sources, the 11 should be replaced with a 2. This implies that you can connect the orange wire to the "signal" pin of the X_MAX end stop connector.
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9996 | PID autotune fails under all conditions so far. Any ideas I haven't tried?
I got some Prusa i3 clones with Melzi boards with Marlin, or nearly so. One of them performed very well (considering that the board would reboot whenever power was applied to the build plate. But I digress) until finally the hot end failed, possibly due to me running it for two days with little respite. The replacement, a typical MK8 clone, installed almost painlessly but failed to start due to over-temperature conditions (we're talking as much as 45 °C over set temperature). I tried the known solutions, continually reducing my P value (got down to 7 before I gave up) and attempting autotune. I also tried autotuning to both higher (230 °C) and lower (150 °C) temperatures.
None of these seemed to produce an autotune successfully, and the same error message temp to[sic] high appeared in all cases. Can anyone suggest something besides a new hot end (I have one on order, but what if I have the same problem with another new one)?
Maybe you can find some hints in this thread?
Nope. It pretty much tells me to do what I did (and wrote about above). I may have left out a few hours of details, though. I am going with the idea that my replacment is a 12V hot end, and the requirement is 24V hot end. I bagged one and will try it this evening...and tomorrow will update.
Watch this space.
You can manually tune the PID.
Yes I know. Turns out I'm using a 12V hot end and should be using 24V. I looked up the resistance to be sure; so no amount of tuning the PID would fix that
You can always just limit the maximum PWM rate to supply to your 12V heater, via #define BANG_MAX 64
64 would have a 12V cartridge run in a 24V system as it if was a 12V system.
Make absolutely sure to enable thermal runaway protections, since a 12V cartridge on 24V can get very hot.
I like this idea, but I do not know how to change #defines (do I take it that I need to find the source code, modify the #defines, recompile and upload the code to the board?), as I only use either the front panel or gcodes to change PID values. #define BANG_MAX 64 64 sounds like it would open that sucker up all the way, though. Besides not understanding my #defines, did I misunderstand what BANG_MAX does?
Turns out I'm using a 12V hot end and should be using 24V. I looked up the resistance to be sure; so no amount of tuning the PID would fix that.
A 12V hotend with 24V supplied to it? That just means it's producing about 4x the power it should be. Not recommended, but I'm doing exactly that with my Fleabay machine. It's been a while since I messed with that machine's firmware, but you should be able to set the PWM of your hotend to a much lower value (start at 1/4th of what it should be for 12V) and then retry the PID tuning. See if that gets you anywhere. If you meant that you're running 12V through a 24V hotend though, you might just be S.O.L.
Just so. Rather than adjust my PID any further, I swapped out the 24V parts for 12V parts. My Prusa clone is now functional and I have made quite a few prints with it, all to my current satisfaction.
My thanks to the many helpful people here.
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9870 | How to decrease sensitivity to heat-bed temperature?
Sometimes I use a DIY 3D printer running Marlin firmware and I have a hard time to set my heat bed temperature. when I set it to 70 °C for PLA, after a few minutes it decreases to 67 °C and I see these error:
READ: Error:Thermal Runaway, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed
READ: Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
Since then the communication with printer is lost, the printing process stops and I have to reconnect to serial port... It's a disaster. I guess I need to lower the sensitivity to 3 degrees at least. I don't know how!?
Have you PID tuned the heated bed?
aside note: as an upgrade you can add an insulation under your HB to keep the temperature more constant
@0scar No, I'm using the default pid parameters. I Thought it would mess it up if I changed them.
@ darth pixel , I'm using an insulator, however it doesn't cover all the surface beneath HB.
First thing to do is do a PID tuning session! :)
I had a similar issue when printing with ABS, because my print cooling fan only activated once it got to a certain height above the bed. I'd say you need to do a PID tuning session, insulate the bottom of the bed better, and see if you can make sure your cooling fan doesn't blow air over the bed itself.
Thank you. Since I did a pid tuning session everything is good.
For people from google:
Go to configuration_adv.h in the marlin firmware source code, and search for "THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS". Then increase the number. The number is how much degress celsius the temperature can be off before thermal runaway
This is the correct answer to the question that was asked. While the solution to the OPs problem was pid tuning, this is the correct place in Marlin to change the number of degrees off before triggering an error.
@agarza this config changes the sensitivity of the thermal runaway. so its exactly what the op asked
Ok, I see now. This is basically a "how to fix it in code" solution. Learn something new everyday. Thanks for enlightening me.
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8204 | Use Gcode Extrusion Speed in Calculations
I have a Rostock Max V2, and I've added a second extruder going into a y-splitter into a single nozzle on my printer. I have both extruders working correctly, but I'm having trouble tuning the retraction settings to prevent stringing when I switch between extruders during a print. My system is essentially identical to the setup seen here. However, I can't get my printer to retract as cleanly as the one in the video
What I'm trying to avoid is the long, thin "tail" that forms when retracting the filament from the hot end. That "tail" binds the other filament during the switch and makes the extruder grind a hollow spot on the filament.
I've had limited success tuning my retraction settings, but I find that I need different settings for different extrusion speeds. For example, after an extrusion like G1 E20 F240 a 3mm retraction, 3mm extrusion, then a fast retraction creates a nice, clean break (this routine is recommended here by kraeger on the SeeMeCNC forums). However, after an extrusion like G1 E20 F900 I have to use longer retractions to get a clean break. I think this might have to do with the filament acting like a spring inside the bowden tube. It would make sense to me that the harder you push the filament, the more you need to pull back to compensate for the pent-up spring force.
Here's my question: Is there a way to read the value of the extrusion speed, essentially the "F" term from the gcode commands, and change my retraction routine accordingly.
Example pseudocode:
If F value < 500 Then do short retraction
If F value > 500 AND F value < 1000 Then do medium retraction
If F value > 1000 Then do long retraction
I'm using the tool change script feature in Simplify3D to store the tool change code.
I don't think you're going to find either a firmware feature or a slicer feature that handles specifically what you want to do. The slicer would probably be the best place to put it, and I'd recommend maybe opening a feature request ticket with Ultimaker, because that sounds like an awesome feature.
That being said, there's nothing stopping you from post-processing your GCode file after it's been generated. If you're experienced with python at all, that's the place I'd recommend you start.
You'll probably want to do it via the following:
Find the first line number that does a retraction.
Sum up all the extrusion distances between that line and the starting point (the beginning of the file)
Replace the retraction distance and feedrate with whatever your short/medium/long retraction settings are
Store that line number as your new starting point
GOTO 1.
If you're using Slic3r, there's actually a post-processing script function built into the app itself, you just need to write the script and give it to the application to make the whole process hands-off. For other slicers you'll probably just have to run the script manually between slicing and printing.
Wow, I didn't know that Slic3r implemented that kind of thing. I'll check into it! Just thinking out loud here - Slic3r is completely separate from Prusa's experimentation with it, e.g. PrusaSlicer. So I would be working with Slic3r, not necessarily PrusaSlicer, unless Prusa has implemented this as well.
I think the way I would do it would be to insert some sort of comment using the slicer like "Insert long/medium/short retract here," and then use the post-processing script to fill in the gaps.
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10040 | Advice for 3D modeling peg for sprinkler dripper
I'm not really sure where to ask this question as I think it is a design question, but also a printing question. So if there is a better place to post, I'd be happy to harass someone else.
I'm (re)designing a sprinkler manifold for a dripper system because the stupid pegs for this stupid manifold are on top of the manifold, which is a prime spot for any old postal person/dog/raindrop to break off. Of course the pegs aren't sold separately so you have to buy a whole new manifold. Seems like a great use for a 3D printer.
I designed a new manifold and decided the pegs were useful in case they broke off. I was thinking having them screw in would be a better design, but for the life of me I can't get them to actually screw in after I print.
Here is the fusion 360 file.
This is generally what it looks like:
And here is the resulting stl file.
After several prints, the pegs won't screw into the manifold base. I push and I turn and turn but the threads just won't bite. The 3/4" pipe threads fit just fine, so I know threads can be printed, but these pegs are stubborn.
I guess my question is, what's a good design for a peg thingy that needs to attach into a manifold, but also pass water? Should I try to replicate the cantilever thing they have going on, or is a screw better? Any ideas why my pegs won't screw into the base of my mushroom? This is my first attempt at 3d modeling so I'm not totally familiar with all the terminology, so any pointers there would be helpful.
Thanks!
It is difficult to make something watertight with 3D printing at high water pressure levels (maybe an epoxy coating on the inside would help out). It could be that the threads are too fine to print, it would be better to make the hole a little smaller and the peg a little bigger in diameter and cut your own threads on both parts.
I can’t download that file right now, I assume they are some rather small threads. One thing you can do is try making the threads more coarse. Another option is to try printing with the smallest nozzle you can and print even slower. Another is to print the threads aligned vertically with the z axis. Another is to make the threaded part of your piece have a slight conical taper the way pipe threads work. Then you can use the conical shape to get the threads to seal better. You can also use ptfe tape on the threads to help them seal. Also what material are you planning on printing these in?
I've been playing with PLA for the prototypes, but probably ABS for the final product. Open to other suggestions. It will be in the sun probably most of the day and some of them could take a beating.
Are sprinklers at "high water" pressures for a .15 or .1 mm layer height? I wasn't thinking they would be too high pressure for that, but I haven't been able to get the pegs in to make a water tight prototype yet.
With the suggestions from @R.., I played with a couple of different screw profiles that come with fusion 360, and found these settings to be helpful:
After cutting the hole with these screw settings, I selected all the faces of the hole and off set them by -0.1 mm. Originally, I was offsetting the hole by like -0.02 mm and the peg wouldn't screw. After learning a bit about tolerances of printers, I expanded this to the .1 value and it screwed in magically! I haven't yet worked out if the pegs are water tight, so I may have to revert back to the previous thread settings that seem like they would be tighter, or maybe I'll invest in an o-ring. Suggestions welcome.
Thanks to everyone for their input.
I examined and sliced your STL file, and the profile of your threads looks very strange.
It's definitely possible to do very strong, perfectly-fitting threads down to small sizes (at least down to M4 or slightly smaller) using modern inexpensive 3D printers, and contrary to widespread belief (there's a well-known YouTube comparison with a major test fallacy claiming otherwise) they should usually be stronger than threaded inserts against being pulled out. But you need to get the thread profile exactly right.
Most real thread profiles are trapezoidal, but yours peak at points and have round bases. This is unlikely to match the external thread on the part you're trying to fit to it, and it's going to have major dimensional accuracy issues because of the sharp point which can't necessarily be represented in the layer resolution.
I'm not familiar with Fusion 360 so I don't know how to tell you exactly, but most CAD software has libraries for generating threads conforming to standard thread profiles. If you want to do 3D printed threads, you should look at those and figure out which one you're trying to match. Or, if you want to replace the pegs with your own design anyway, just pick a reasonable one for both.
Generally, most modern threads use the basic ISO metric thread profile, even if they're not standard metric diameter or pitch:
Your cross-sections should look roughly like the "internal thread" side of that.
This reminded me that Fusion 360 has a feature to import 3d models from the McMaster-Carr catalog including screw and bolt threads.
Interesting, I hadn't inspected the threads in too much detail. Fusion has a bunch of preset threads that are from some standards. I used ANSI Metric M Profile, but here is a screen shot of the available profiles. I played with a couple, so maybe it is just finding the right one.
Metric M threads should look like this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread
If I may suggest a slight alternative: don't try to make the threads part of the 3Dprint. Instead, thicken the walls where the threads would have been, increasing the ID (inner diameter) of the hole, maybe even "thread" to match the outside of : metal threaded inserts. Those can be screwed in, .
Perhaps a small "T-nut" (pick the size you need) would be sufficient, and you could create holes in your printed part for the penetration tips.
Good call, but I think for these simple sprinklers, adding metal inserts might be more than what I need. In this case the pegs are to carry water from the 3/4" pipe to the smaller dripper hoses, so the pegs themselves need to be hollow.
Or, with tap and die, thread the parts after printing them.
@Davo: That should work as long as you ensure that the walls are sufficiently many layers to retain strength after you tap.
@R.. Yes, we do this all the time with internal threads. We do four or five perimeters, 35% hexagonal infill. Good for M3 and above in my experience.
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10250 | Are large format prints more brittle?
Recently on one of her videos a YouTuber stated that prints from large format printers are more brittle than if you were to print them in parts and glue them together. This seems to contradict the testimonials from the customers of a large format printer, who say that they get good prints from those printers (which print have a print area of a meter square).
Would a print form a larger format printer be more brittle than a print made of smaller pieces super glued together?
(with all other aspects being equal e.g. the nozzle, the temps, the material and the shape of the object).
The YouTube didn't cite any source information to back up her claim.
If you break up a large piece into multiple smaller pieces and properly glue them together, you basically add stiffeners (as a result of printing walls). This could lead to a more stiff model; this might have been confused by calling large prints more brittle opposed to constructed models.
If printing is conducted at similar conditions on large printers, there shouldn't be a reason why the model becomes more brittle unless the conditions aren't the same. But that would be true for printing at small printers too, e.g. if one print was printed in a draft.
@ Oscar That assumes the same fill percentage on both, so that the outer shell of the pieces glued added to the internal structure. You could compensate by having a higher fill percentage on the larger one piece models.
@PerryWebb It isn't a good idea to compare apples and oranges. But indeed that is possible, the question, or the (non existing) reference to the YouTube video is not clear on that. I merely provide a plausible explanation.
The pieces having printed as outer shell glued internally definitely adds to a stiffer structure as well as more material used printing.
So it could just be the internal structure. Makes sense. This is something I have to figure out how to test.
In that case, the solution should be to actively add the required internal stiffness (for example by using modifier meshes in Slic3r / Prusa Slicer) instead of printing it in parts and glueing it together.
I'd recommend getting the object to fit together by design, rather than glue - though I tend (if the item is never to be disassembled) use Zap-a-gap - that stuff sticks like crazy though you must not squeeze the parts together but let it naturally sit.
This is good advice, but it doesn't answer the question Are large format prints more brittle?
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10369 | Why does jerk have units of mm/s rather than mm/s³?
In 3D printing firmware and slicers, jerk settings are expressed in units if mm/s. This is contrary the physical definition of jerk, which is in units of mm/s³, being the second derivative of speed with respect to time (or the third derivative of position). What is the reason for this discrepancy and how does one interpret jerk in this contect?
I'm not sure what other tags would be appropriate for this question; please suggest or edit them in if you have good ideas.
The jerk setting in 3D printing G-code and firmware represents a concept similar to, but distinct from, the physical definition of jerk. Rather, it's a [limit on] instantaneous change of speed.
Mathematically, one way to make sense of this is to think that, rather than being the second derivative of speed with respect to time, this "jerk" is the entire remainder of the first-order expansion of speed with respect to time - it corresponds to the second-order term and all higher order terms. Such terms cannot be combined just as coefficients, since they all have different units corresponding to different powers of time; rather, they can be combined only with their corresponding powers of time, in which case the resulting unit is mm/s.
Confused me for a sec - I always look at the Nth derivative of position, not speed. Just noting this in case anyone else is as poor at reading as I was.
@CarlWitthoft: Of position. I specifically said of speed.
@CarlWitthoft Speed (v) is the derivate of positon (s) over time. because of that the physical jerk = v'' = s'''
The units for jerk should be meters per second cubed or m/s3.
Meters are the basic unit for distance. The first derivative is speed, or velocity, m/s. The second derivative is acceleration, m/s2. The third derivative is jerk, m/s3.
It is rate of change in acceleration.
While seldom used, I've only heard it once concerning the Hubble Space telescope, there is a fourth derivative call jounce, m/s4.
While this expands on the physics definitions in the original question, it does not address what jerk means in 3D printing or why the units are different.
In step based motion control, the time between two steps is calculated directly from velocity. If that time is not constant then you are accelerating or decelerating based on a specified acceleration. The next time between steps is calculated from the current velocity based on the desired acceleration. However when moving 2 or 3 axes at once, this can result in very poor and slow performance when moving through complex curves composed of many small moves, because by the math one axis always needs to slow down too much if no jerk is involved. When doing motion calculations for step based systems, actual jerk m/s³ directly translates into how much velocity 'error' is acceptable in calculation of the next velocity (m/s) to allow turning lo angle corners more quickly, but without missing steps or stalling motors. This velocity error comes directly from the actual jerk between two steps and it does have physical meaning, (and the proper units). Also, low power microprocessors can do the math fast enough, which is not the case if square and cube roots get involved.
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8206 | Inconsistent inner/outer dimensions
Using CuraEngine with my Ender 3, I'm getting what I'd call inconsistent inner and outer dimensions - for example, a nominally 3 mm peg is significantly larger than a 3 mm hole, and it takes dimensions something like 2.9 mm for the peg and 3.1 mm for the hole to get them to fit. Is this level of error normal? Is it caused by overextrusion, or does CuraEngine run its paths along the curve of the slice rather than offset by approximately half the nozzle width inside the sliced region? The magnitude of the error being almost exactly 0.2 mm, which is half of the 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, makes me wonder if it's the latter.
Cura does correctly account for line extrusion widths wheen positioning the lines, and attempting to fix this with negative xy_offset was a mistake that led to lots of problems: in some cases, it completely eliminated tiny components of the model and left gaps in layers. At some point after asking this question, I did a new test with 8mm peg and hole, and I was actually able to force the 8mm peg into the hole (but not remove it) using tools, without cracking the parts, so I think past tiny sizes where dimensional accuracy is very difficult to achieve, everything is just about right.
Filament expands slightly as it is extruded. Also, the width of the extrusion depends on the volume of plastic extruded (not the nozzle size), as well as the amount that it is "squidged" down. Some slicers (e.g. Simplify3D) allow you to specify the width of the extrusion that you desire, but I'm not sure if Cura does this. You can fine tune the width of extrusions by adjusting the flow rate. Note that apertures get larger as nozzles wear out, but this should not affect the width of the extrusion very much since the determining factor is volumetric flow rate.
I would say that if you are getting a dimensional accuracy of +/- 0.1mm, you are doing pretty well. If you want to improve on this, you will need to calibrate your extruder and also monitor closely the average diameter of the filament that you are using. I have included a link to an external article, since doing this is beyond the scope of my answer. However, I doubt if it is possible to get push-fit accuracy with FDM printing without fudging the dimensions of the objects that you want to print.
3D Hubs: How to calibrate, tune and fine tune your printer and filament
The effect you are describing is called "die swell"; you can counteract this effect in the calibration of the extruder.
Do you know if Cura compensates for the width of extrusion it's attempting to produce by positioning of the path? Of course this won't solve the problem if the width of extrusion (after "die swell") differs from what it expects, but if it doesn't do such compensation I don't think any reduction in extrusion rate could fix this.
I've no idea. You could, of course, just examine the G-code. S3D sets a default line width of 0.48mm for a 0.4mm nozzle, whereas Cura just uses the nozzle diameter. Maybe S3D is trying to compensate for die swell?
Interesting. Yeah, I probably need to dig into the gcode output to figure out what it's doing (or the source, but that's usually worse).
I'm not sure I'd call it "fudging." For a given material, and a reasonable range of hole sizes, you should be able to calibrate (much nicer-sounding word :-) ) the excess pin diameter and/or the loss of hole diameter.
@CarlWitthoft: I'd call it fudging (or a hack) if you have to modify the object geometry rather than the slicing parameters to fix it. Calibration should be something that happens at the slicing layer to produce an output that accurately reflects the source model.
I think the wall_0_inset setting of CuraEngine might be what I need. It looks like it's auto-set when called from Cura python gui (but doesn't do anything even then unless wall_line_width_0 is less than machine_nozzle_size), but needs to be computed and set manually when invoking CuraEngine directly.
Or perhaps just xy_offset...
I've been able to fudge/calibrate it with either xy_offset=-0.1 or material_flow=80, but the latter leaves serious ridges in the top skin and obviously isn't right. I haven't been able to get wall_0_inset to do anything meaningful.
@Mick: From examining the gcode, Cura does indeed position the path for the outer wall inset by half the nozzle-width from the surface. Further, xy_offset behaves as expected and allows it to be offset from there in either direction.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.304835 | 2019-02-09T02:29:53 | {
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10331 | How precise do models need to be for 3D printing?
I'm not talking about making something that's outright disproportionate of course. I've been working in Blender and I've use Absolute grid Snap to snap my vertices to the grid. The problem is that it (didn't seem) to always work perfectly for centimeters, and seemed to work better for meters.
(edit: I've learned what the problem was and it was simply the placement of the vertices in side view, being at slightly different elevations. I'm going to emphasize that the difference was very slight. It was just enough to show up in the measurements. When I switched from front view to side view I was able to adjust the elevation to the grid and that fixed the problem.)
It should be ok.
@user77232: That's not something you can say unconditionally.
Why not turn off GridSnap if your primary concern is the length of a feature, rather than the endpoints of the feature?
After some trouble shooting I realized what was wrong, and now it seems more like a non issue if anything. There's actually nothing wrong with the grid, and the vertices were snapped to it appropriately in top view. The problem was that that my vertices were not at the same elevation (in side view). The two seemed very close to being snapped appropriately on the grid in side view which is why it wasn't immediately obvious.
It depends on what you're working on. If you're producing mechanical/functional parts (even if that just means having to connect to one another or to some non-printed part), 3 mm (0.3 cm) error is almost surely going to prevent them from working. Even 0.3 mm error might be a problem.
If you're doing standalone prints that don't have to interface with anything else, e.g. art, non-articulated figurines, etc., then it becomes just a question of what's visually acceptable, and that's a matter both of scale and of the detail level you want. For typical tabletop-RPG scale, for example, most of the acutal visual features are going to be smaller than 3 mm, so that much error is not going to work out. It might work for large busts, though.
In any case, I would recommend trying to solve the underlying problem. Either change your grid snap, or work at a larger scale and just scale down the final model.
Welcome to the SE 3D Printing site. Your questions are also welcome, as well as your answers to your questions, and the questions of others.
I am not a Blender user. I use CAD systems because most of what I do I want to have a certain dimensional precision.
If the problem is as simple as "The overall object is designed to be 7.345 centimeters but I want it to be 7.000 centimeters," you can fix that when you print the model. Use the scaling feature of your slicer to scale by $(7.000/7.345)$ or $95.303\%$. It will print as the size you want.
The problem may be deeper, though, in that you may be having trouble setting points within the model where you want them. In that case, the snap-to-grid feature is distorting your model's appearance and geometry, and there is nothing you can do to fix it.
If it can't be fixed by scaling, I would suggest that you should either turn off the snap-to features or set up a grid that matches the granularity you actually want for your design.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.305176 | 2019-06-21T10:59:30 | {
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9842 | Power OctoPi from printer
I'm wondering if there is some trick to power my OctoPi with the power supply of my 3D printer. I'm using an Geeetech I3 Pro W.
The power supply itself should be able, but the output is as far as I'm aware of 3.3 volts. Not my desired 5 V for USB, it would be a shame if I really would need to buy a new power supply when I have a strong one actually running. My current power supply causes a lot of "Under-voltage detected!" warnings.
After thinking a little about the specs, there are cigarette lighter adapter for cars they use 12 V. Has anyone experience with using that on his printer?
Presumably, the PSU is 12V or 24V (for extruder and steppers), and there is a lower voltage regulator on the printer which you are trying to use. Depending on the version of PI you use, up to about 2A is a good spec for the supply you need.
What you are looking for is called a "buck converter" or a "step down module". These literally cost about half a buck/Euro a piece. These converters convert a high voltage into a low voltage, the better ones are able to draw 2 to 3 Amps, which is required for stable operation of the Raspberry Pi.
If you have an old computer power supply of a decent brand (probably not as you refer to a kit/assembled printer, but added for completeness), you can even use the standby 5 V line out and switch the power supply on using a relay to short the green wire of the PSU to ground. This is how I use it on one of my printers.
Note to power the Raspberry Pi through the micro USB port, to not bypass safety features.
Where are you plugging in the USB power to the Pi? If you are back powering it from the data connection, you will bypass the fuses and potentially ruin your Pi or worse. Look at this wiki under the power section:
Back-Powering; (powering the Raspberry Pi from a USB hub through the uplink/data port, single cable) Back powering is possible on the Raspberry Pi, but not advisable. Revision 1.0 boards have to be modified to back power, this is due to the 140 mA "polyfuses" that are installed in the USB port circuit. Revision 1.1 boards do not need modifications to back-power, they have replaced the polyfuses with 0 ohm resistors in their place. Revision 2.0 boards do not need modification, they have neither resistors nor polyfuses. It is advised that short (12" (.3 meter) or less) USB cables be used for back-powering a Raspberry Pi. Cable resistance plus connector resistance can quickly reduce operating voltages below the proper range (5.25 V to 4.75 V). But do note that if you do not power the Raspberry Pi in the "official manner", that is through its micro-USB port, but use any alternative way (such as through the GPIO header, the test points TP1 and TP2), but also by back-powering it, you are actually bypassing the Raspberry Pi's input polyfuse protection device! This can have extreme consequences if ever you manage to put more than 6 V on the Raspberry Pi, even for a very short period. As this causes the overvoltage device D17 on the Raspberry Pi to trigger and short the 5 V supply! Without the polyfuse limiting the current through D17, it will burn out, probably melting the Raspberry Pi's enclosure with it, (if you have any) and possibly causing a fire-hazard. It will probably also create a permanent short of the 5 V supply! So be warned, and if you use back power make sure your hub or its PSU has a fuse to prevent this from happening. If not, add your own fuse.
As far as powering the Pi through a 12 V to 5 V converter this will work as long as the current is rated above what the Pi will use, preferably a lot higher. You will also have to consider how this option will cut the power abruptly when you switch the printer off and the Pi will not boot down properly.
It's always best to include the info from the link, for two reasons: (a) link-rot, and (b) saves people time having to click links and search for that to which you were referring... :-) Interesting info about the back-powering anyway.
Thank you guys for your help. I ended up with a suggested "Step Down Power Module" which works fine for me. I connected that module directly with the power supply of the printer with a blade connector. The first startup showed me a couple of low voltage warnings, but the second start worked fine without any warnings. I didn't know how the UI looks like without the warning on the top.
So I avoided that fancy and risky back powering since I power it now as intended. Now I have one power supply less which is great out of my opinion.
I’ve been using a buck converter for quite awhile with no problems. However just as importantly as proper voltage and amperage is using a good cable. I had my step down properly set, but was still getting low voltage warnings until I switched to a thicker cable.
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9792 | Which software do I need to start print something?
I'm still new to 3D printing and I want to print something. I expect that I'll mess it up since I find nothing to adjust it but it is now laying around for 4 months and I'm sick of it.
So my question is where do I find Windows software to print something and of course where do I get a 3D model?
I own a Geeetech i3 Pro W.
First; find a model!
To print something you require a model (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called Thingiverse and MyMiniFactory for examples). Once you have a model file, you need to make it readable for the printer firmware.
If you can't find suitable model, then you need to design a model yourself (or ask someone to do it for you) or adjust an existing model to suit your needs. "Good (preferably free) Beginner Software for Part Creation?" is a good place to start.
Second; use slicer software
For a printer to be able to print the model, the model needs to be sliced into layers. These layers need to be printed at specific speeds, temperatures, etc. Search online and look at the filament packaging (usually the ideal temperatures are on the packaging) to find the ideal temperature for your filament. If you are not using the right temperatures, your print will most likely fail. Programs that are able to slice models are called slicers. The most popular free (and Windows compatible) slicers are Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r (or its Prusa distribution).
The slicer produces a printer readable file called a G-code file (file filled with printer instructions for e.g. movement and heating). This G-code file can be sent to the printer using specific printer software (e.g. OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, etc.) but more common or simple is to put the G-code file on an SD card and print the file using the print menu on the printer LCD.
Got my first print. Yey :-D
@rekire Congrats! As you print simple models and fail at more complex ones, you will soon learn about settings that make prints better and easier in the slicer. One of the most common ones is activating support material. Don't worry about a bad print or two.
@rekire Once you are comfortable with your slicer, look for a CAD design program to make your own models. The learning curves can be rather steep, but once you manage, you can manage to all out.
@rekire Seconding Trish. Learn a CAD (Fusion360, FreeCAD) for tech stuff and/or a 3D modelling editor (Blender) for artsy creations, and you're cooking with gas.
If you're just starting out then Tinkercad (website) is a good place to start designing your own objects. Later you can get to grips with OpenScad for more complex shapes. Both are free.
The models generated with those programs are however not yet printable - you forget to mention slicing!
I'm confused, TinkerCad produces stl files same as OpenScad etc. What files can't be printed from TinkerCad?
You don't print STL but the gcode made by the slicer. STL is the model, gcode the print instructions. While you can use the models provided by pages like thingieverse, you need to slice them for your machine, which your answer fails to mention.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.305925 | 2019-04-26T15:16:45 | {
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9862 | Can a model change size when using a different filament type?
I printed a case for my phone, a Motorola G4 Plus. I found the model of the casing on Thingiverse
I just downloaded the model, used Meshmixer to check for issues, after that, opened Simplify3d and saved it for printing using an SD Card. The printed size of the model was smaller than expected.
The model designer, says in the description that he used flexible filament. Is it possible than if I change to that filament, the model result is completely different?
Print result - phone casing:
Of course it can change size... but definitely not in scale you've presented.
Filament as same as many other materials can subject something called shrinkage. It depends on physical properties of the material and as its name suggests cause the dimensions to shrink.
Here is wikipedia article.
The same happens to almost all plastics.
But this phenomenon is almost unnoticeable in terms of PLA... well not really...
Bending is mostly caused by shrinkage. We have heated beds (among others) to prevent it. And we use adhesives also to prevent bending so to prevent effects of shrinkage.
It can be also noticed when you print specific volume (and/or specific base surface) and you left the model on the HB until it cools down - the model can come off the HB on it's own even when adhesive was used.
But your "shrinkage" is definitely not that one.
Maybe this happeneded, when i was prove that use the meshmixer for check the error's and add better quality
@PedroMiguelPimientaMorales you need to edit your model to resize it, then create your gcode again. Some times but some times I got some thingiverse files but I forget to read de instructions which specify print at 90% or print at 120% scale and so on.
No, choosing a different filament type will not result in a different size (unless you use PLA that foams on extrusion, it increases size but then again all other dimensions would not fit either as it expands uniformly). The overall dimensions are defined by the coordinates in the G-code file which is based on the geometry of the model. If the printed model has dimensions that differ in the region of centimeters (like shown in your images) a different filament type will not change the size. Differences in the order of fractions of a millimeter are possible.
Probably the size has accidentally changed while loading the model in one of the tools prior to slicing to G-code.
Sidenote; there are techniques to anneal PLA after printing, you will then observe changes in the size of the part you printed, but I don't think you have annealed the print. From the link above:
On average, you’ll see PLA shrinkage of about 5% and growth of about 2% along the relevant axes. If this shrinkage and growth is going to be a problem, you can compensate for it beforehand during the design and printing processes.
I think the same about the problem are in some tools i use for check error from model. I will try again, but just print the first five layers and comparate size.
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.306328 | 2019-05-06T00:59:38 | {
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9878 | Why do 3D printers have only one limit switch?
I have seen that many 3D printers have only one limit switch for each axis, how does it know where to stop on the other end?
My first guess is that the machine knows how big the plate is, and calculates it accordingly.
If this is true, then if I were to use a RAMPS, I would have to modify the software to figure out the build plate, it won't have the hardware to autocalculate.
it doesn't need to be at one end, any known position can be used to "home" (calibrate absolute position in regards to future movement commands).
Limit switches have (at least) 2 uses: finding the edge, and preventing running past it. With one limit switch per axis you get the first but only half the second. But as @Oscar points out, any kind of slippage (belt, motor limitations, etc.) means the axis won't be where the software thinks it is. I much prefer having limit switches at both ends.
I believe you can add a 2nd limit switch, and update the Configuration.h file to show it's there. My combined Mega2560+RAMP functionality (Migbot printer) has both + and - limit switch connectors. Looks like this, with X+/X-. Y+/Y-, and Z+/Z- at the lower right. I haven't tried any Config file changes myself, am just running the software that came with the board in Jan 2015.
In principle you only need the minimum axis position (or the maximum), the offset to the bed and the size of the bed in the direction of the axes. Fortunately, you can specify this in the firmware:
E.g. in Marlin Firmware offsets are defined as travel limits:
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -33
#define Y_MIN_POS -10
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
Bed size:
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 200
#define Y_BED_SIZE 200
Do note that some printers do have maximum endstops on top of minimum endstops. This is handy in case of layer shifting (e.g. caused by the nozzle catching the print as such that the belt skips notches and as such redefining the reference frame) to prevent the carriage from destroying the printer at the maximum of the axis.
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8513 | Printer is Confused-Printing in Air Literally
So I got my 3D printer (Anet A8) a few years ago and put it together. I couldn't figure out how to use it. Then about a month ago I decided to try again now that I am older and got it to work. I know more than I did by far. I have printed about 15-20 different times now, but then this problem occurred just now that I have never seen before. I tried looking up what it could be and google results in nothing and this exchange leads to one thread that is close to what I am having difficulty with but doesn't really help. I got the stl file from the internet on thingverse, so I am fairly certain they must have clicked the center and arrange when in the cad software to make the item, which is a phone stand. So my print all of a sudden starting printing in air. Here is a picture and thanks for the help.
What do you mean by print all of a sudden starting printing in air, you mean that the filament stops extruding but continuous printing, or does it raise the head and prints filament in the air. Looking at the image I assume you mean the first option, but please make that clear in your question. If so, what you then are looking for is a defect called clogging.
Some thingiverse models are plainly broken, and you only see that when you switch to "layer view" in the slicer. Knowing the model can help in identiffying if it was this or some other fail. Also, the GCode you sliced would be helpful to see. I can assure you, that STL models don't contain arrangement information for the printer. In fact, they don't even contain any reference to the origin of the design program but a boundbox and a know length unit that then all the other lengthes are referenced against.
I can give the gcode file, but how exactly do I do that? Also, I opened up cura and I think I understand what you mean by "layer view" as there are 2 sliding bars (x and z or y probably) that you can slide to see how it will print. Sure enough it shows the exact thing that happened to me. So I agree that this model is broken and I will now check for this after downloading something from thingiverse. Thanks for this lesson as I did not know this, but I do now. However, is there someway I can fix this for the future if I catch it before printing?
To Oscar, I thought my picture was clear but it looks like it might not have been. What I mean was that the extruder is printing filament but is printing where there is no layer. If you look at the picture, you can see the filament coming out from the extruder where there is nothing there (hense air). You can take a look at my response to Trish as Trish hit it on the nail of my problem, I just want to know how to fix it now to prevent this from happening again.
@john please help us -- post the thingiverse link. We can examine, and probably repair, the source file for you.
I couldn't find the orginal link to it, but I found where I downloaded it. Maybe this link can help? https://cdn.thingiverse.com/zipfiles/03/d1/fd/7e/b5/Universal_Phone_Stand_even_for_large_phones.zip
You can see in the pronterface how your Gcode will be printed, there are some faces that can be interpreted opposite. So you wont get printing on that part. I got this error when I started to print 3 years ago slicing with the slic3r.
Here's the pattern.
The problem is, you didn't slice the g-code using support. It won't print right without it.
I see what I did wrong now. Thank you as I will now add support for all my prints that have overhang. I see where the support is in cura, its plain as day.
Not all prints need or want support material - Print in place regularily will fail or fuse fast with it, @john for optimal strength, I would print this on its side with support enabled and the everywhere choice.
I agree with @Trish . Print on its side to get greatly increased strength where it matters.
If printed on its side, I think the finish would be tremendously better as well, since the support material would only be used on the thin side and not throughout the entire flat side of the print.
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8682 | "Seams" in first layer
My first layers started to have these "seams" in them.
I am printing on the Anycubic Ultrabase.
Any other layer is fine.
Has anyone else experienced similar problems or an idea of how to debug this issue?
The picture is of PLA (BQ Easy Black) printed at 215 °C on the Ultrabase.
The the same issue with BQ Easy PLA red, turquoise and white (205 °C), Zaper PETG Brown 230 °C and HobbyKing translucent ABS Red (245 °C).
Changing the nozzle did not change anything.
Normally, such patterns are caused by too close printing to the bed (nozzle to bed distance too small), but considering the not fully flattened out extrusion lines (on glass I get a mirror shine fully closed surface) this does not seem to be the reason; you could try to increase the gap a little, in Ultimaker Cura this is very easily done with the Z Offset Setting plugin. Add to your question where you print on, it looks as if the bed is not flat.
@0scar Finally came to testing it. you were correct. Leveling the printbed (with 0.25mm cardboard) and the bottom Layer looks like it shoult . Thank You!
I'll make it into a proper answer then! Thanks for the feedback!
Normally, such patterns are caused by too close printing to the bed (nozzle to bed distance too small), but considering the not fully flattened out extrusion lines (on glass I get a mirror shine fully closed surface) this does not seem to be the reason; you could try to increase the gap a little, in Ultimaker Cura this is very easily done with the Z Offset Setting plugin. Alternatively, you could use a little thicker paper to calibrate the bed levelling.
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9804 | The first layers while printing look strange
I own a Geeetech i3 Pro W and I started printing today. Amazing how it works.
I just recognized while printing my first bigger model something very strange: At the beginning some parts are missing and there are huge holes. However when I keep it printing the following layers "fix" the issue. I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong.
I almost forgot to mention that I think I'm using that PLA, the bed has a temperature of 60 °C and the extruder 200 °C.
Here are two pictures after about 1 layer and after about 4 layers:
You're having bed adhesion issues. Are you sure you've leveled the bed correctly? The distance to bed for the initial layer is critical.
I used a peace of paper, might be I still need to lower it more. It fits now easy everywhere without having much space (I haven't tried it, but I don't think that two layers would fit).
When I level my bed, the paper drags quite a bit. I like a lot of squish which gives good adhesion. You can only get good squish if you have the distance tight. The drag is enough I can't push the paper under the nozzle, I have to pull it both ways.
From the first layer image it can be seen that your nozzle to bed distance is just too large:
the lines of deposited filament e.g. in the brim are not touching,
deposited filament lines are not "squished" or "flattened" to the build plate,
filament is cutting off corners as it is dragged while being hot and not stuck to the bed,
filament leaves the nozzle in "blobs"; it sort of free flows from the nozzle as the bed is too far to give resistance.
Use the plain paper technique while levelling the bed. The paper should give a slight drag/resistance when pulled/pushed. Proper levelling and a proper nozzle to bed distance for the first layer are essential for successful prints.
There is also an option to integrally lower the print level in the slicer software, but it is advised to properly level the bed (hardware solution) instead of using software tricks to sort out the problem.
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9807 | Damage to bed surface from heat or chemical or..?
The original bed surface of my Ender 3 has become brittle and finally cracked, requiring replacement. I'm trying to figure out what the cause might have been to avoid it happening again. It seems to have started after using "flex PLA", which involves both high temperatures (225 °C) and plasticizers mixed in the PLA. Could either of these have contributed to the problem? I'm not sure what material the bed surface is - it's the new one that's removable and held on by clips. If it's PEI, the glass transition temperature is supposedly 217 °C, just above what I use for normal PLA but well below what I'm using for the flex, so perhaps that's the cause?
Image of the damage:
The build surface on the Ender3 is a BuildTak clone. The picture is a bit unclear, but given my experience with BuildTak (clones) this certainly damage because of heat. You can, as suggested before, replace the bed surface, but I do not think it is necessary at this stage.
Normally these surfaces do not get damaged that easily but to prolong the life try to keep the following points in mind:
Correct height between nozzle and bed.
Don't let the nozzle heat up/cool down close to the bed (for example after a failed first layer).
When using sharp tools to remove prints be careful nut to dig into the surface.
Don't use too high of a bed temperature (my BuildTak clone once had bubbles forming because the layers separated)
Clean/degrease the bed, although this is more to ensure proper bed adhesion.
I found out that if the bed stops sticking you can revive it by sanding it a bit.
It is necessary - it's hard to tell from the pic, but around the two cracks it's lifted enough to make bottom surface of prints non-flat, and the nozzle scrapes on them and could dislodge first layer depending on exactly where it runs.
Thinking about it more, I recall one print that stuck to the bed really badly, and feeling like I was breaking the adhesive under the bed surface when I eventually got it off. It seems plausible that, after that, thermal conduction away from the affected area was poor, and combined with a few bed height mistakes with hotend at 225 (and one with the first few layers of an aborted print still on the bed), that might have resulted in heat damage.
Re: cleansing and sanding, if anything I have too much adhesion, so I think I'll pass. :-)
@R.. yeah, I have the same, but sometimes because of hand grease the bed adhesion suddenly fails ;)
@R.. If this answer answered your question please click on the checkmark next to it.
The material used for the Build surface is not PEI but a BuildTak Clone that offers adhesion through a rough surface texture. I do not know what exactly is in the composition of the polymer, but I can say that my bed surface needed replacement about 9 months after purchase after I vigorously removed a piece I printed. As a matter of fact, most build surfaces - even PEI - are pretty much going to wear out over time and need occasional replacement. Luckily, a build surface isn't expensive usually.
To prolong the life of the bed surface, I suggest:
check the nozzle distance to the bed, as printing too close can make plastic residue extremely hard to remove.
be very careful when using sharp tools to remove parts - don't let a corner bite into the surface!
don't use a soldering iron or hot air gun on the build platform to remove stuck parts, you'll melt the surface and degrade it
clean the surface at times.
However, replacing the bed is easy enough, as I found out here.
Re: "here" link, my Ender 3 is the newer one without the surface glued to the aluminum, but instead to a removable non-metal plate. So removing the adhesive residue might be different.
@R.. you would still pry the bed off, then remove the 3M adhesive that holds the Build Surface to the steel and then add a new.
The adhesive came off almost entirely just by peeling, and the remainder came off easily with paint thinner. Whole replacement took about 5 minutes and $6 (well, $12 for 2), so not bad at all.
@R.. when I did it, I got myself a pack of 3, having some spare beds and nozzles around never hurts, keeps the downtime for these wear-out parts low.
Yeah. Actually I wish I could find identical replacements for the plate it adheres to. I'd buy an extra or two just to have them ready in case of future damage. Already have lots of nozzles. First pack I bought was assorted sizes, which I still haven't tried, but quality seemed really bad. Now I've got a bunch sold by Creality that seem to be same as original. :-)
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9821 | Print came out like a wafer
I'm not sure how else to describe it. There's probably a name for this but I just don't know it. But the bottom few layers came out great, but the rest came out kind of like a triscuit. Below are pics of my print and settings. I am using a delta style printer. Can someone tell me what this issue is called and how to fix it?
The phenomenon you experience is called under-extrusion. Under-extrusion is the effect of extruding lesser filament than required for the print. The result of under-extrusion (depending on the amount of under-extrusion) can be described as spongy prints, gaps in prints/layers, failed prints, etc. As the amount of plastic flow is less than required for the print, the quality and print strength is much lower than that of a normal filament flow printed part.
Most severe under-extrusion is usually caused by incorrect filament diameter setting. E.g. Ultimaker Cura (to date, April 2019, the version is 4.0) is notorious for resetting the filament diameter to 2.85 mm after you upgraded to a newer version (because that is the diameter of the filament the Ultimaker machines use) while most people use 1.75 mm diameter filament.
From the settings if appears you have set the correct filament diameter (i.e. if you use 1.75 mm filament). Please measure the filament over a few meters and determine the average filament diameter to be sure.
In your case it must be something else!
A higher temperature causes filament to be more fluid (do check if the temperature you use fits the type of filament you use), so an increased temperature should help against under-extrusion (less friction for the extruder to push the filament through the nozzle). Please do check the extruder stepper; is it skipping?, is the tension the extruder gear exerts on the filament enough to prevent slipping?
Finally, blockage of the nozzle; partial blockage of the nozzle can prevent consistent flow from the nozzle. It is advised to rigorously clean the nozzle (e.g. using the atomic cleaning method where you heat up the nozzle insert filament and turn off the heat to pull the filament out when temperature is about 30 °C lower than the printing temperature of the filament) or replace the nozzle.
To complete the answer, another source for under extrusion that is seen from the beginning of 2020 of Marlin firmware operated 3D printers is that instead of normal extrusion (where E in the G-code file denotes extrusion of filament movement in units of length), the printer assumes it is volumetric displacement. From the Marlin menu of the graphical controller you can change volumetric displacement to length displacement by disabling volumetric flow.
I upgraded Cura (I got the version from the support page of my printer https://gearrev.com/pages/support). You are correct in the filament issue diameter too. I had this set to 1.75, when i opened it, it was at 2.85 which i figured was a mistake because i remember setting it to 1.75 before print. So i changed it for the screen shot figuring it maybe reset when I shut down cura last time.
Then I checked the nozzle, which was fine, the heatbreak however; That needed some work. The teflon tube was warped. Printing now and even the raft looks better.
I appreciate the answer!
The Cura issue seems to be that they moved filament diameter to a per-extruder setting when adding multi-extruder support, and now the default is wrong and needs to be fixed for each extruder.
Underextrusion.
I suggest upgrading to Cura 3, as you are working with a version 1.5.
If you print PLA, you print WAY too hot (190-200 °C Nozzle, 60 °C Bed), if it is ABS, knock down the temperature a little.
Check for a clogged nozzle.
*
I have no idea why the heat is at 245. I didn't catch that. The filament box says PLA+ 205-225 so i used 212. I think this old Cura version was an issue. Weird because I got it from the support page of the printer (https://gearrev.com/pages/support). Upgraded and also found that the filament diameter reset itself to 2.85 and the heatbreak's teflon insert was broken.
Also appreciate the term for this because when googling for "triscuit 3d print", i didn't quite get what i was looking for lol
Yeeea, filament resetting to 2.85 mm is an old bug. PLA+ is printed higher than normal PLA, so 210-220 sounds ok-ish.
Just to add to the already made answers:
Check out heat-creep!
When heat from the hot-end creeps up in the filament, it melts and blocks the extrusion (more or less severely), and under extrusion results.
It's basic characteristic is that the print starts out great, and then some time in, under extrusion happens.
The solution is to cool down the cold part of the hot-end which is usually done with a small fan directed onto the cold part, e.g the top part where the filament enters the hot-end.
Most hot-ends have a heat sink on the cold part, but in my experience this is not enough and for me a fan has always been needed.
Good addition! Usually it stops extrusion as a whole, but indeed sometimes heat creep could cause partial blocking.
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9820 | Specifying Z offset in Marlin firmware
I need to set a Z offset for the Flying bear P902. I calculated the offset (-2.98). But, every time when I try to input this using the LCD screen of my 3D printer, the value jumps to either -2.99 or -2.97. As -2.97 is just a little bit too far from the bed and -2.99 is just a little bit too close to the bed (and -2.98 is perfect), I really want to input this specific value. I have tried many times on the LCD screen and also in the firmware itself.
But, even after uploading the firmware, it still displays -2.97.
This is the line of code I was changing:
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -2.98 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
Is there a way I can input -2.98?
I really doubt that 1/100 of a mm would make that effect on adhesion, the deviation of the positioning accuracy is most probable even higher than that!
Z-offset persitently stored in memory?
Maybe the value of -2.97 for the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is retained in the EEPROM memory when you upload new firmware.
You could try to send the G-code M502 to the machine to re-load the values from the firmware overwriting currently stored values.
Alternative Z-offset using G-code commands
Note that there is a different (and more common) solution to set the Z-offset using G-code M851, you can do this after you uploaded the firmware to the printer. Sending G-code commands can be done using printer software and a USB connection to the printer through a so-called terminal interface. This can be done in OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, Pronterface (Printrun software suite), and probably many more. Alternatively, you could make seperate G-code (basically text files with extension .g) files with each step in a single file and "print" the files through the SD interface of the printer menu.
The following strategy must be followed to specify the Z offset:
Heat your printer up to your printing temperature and allow a few minutes for it to expand and settle
Reset the existing Z-offset to zero M851 Z0
Home all axes G28
Move the nozzle to the middle of the bed G1 X110 Y110 (if your bed is 220 x 220)
Turn off the software endstops with M211 S0
Move the nozzle down so it is just gripping a piece of standard printer paper
Set the Z-offset to the displayed value. E.g. if the printer displays a Z-Value of -1.23 enter M851 Z-1.23
Store it to the EEPROM M500
Important notice! Enable the endstops again with M211 S1 or the printer head will collide with the bed on the next G28 command
Thank you very much. This helped. I used Repetier-Host and was able to calculate the new z offset and store it. After that, I printed something and it was successful!
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9914 | 3d printer set up
I am not very used to 3D printers and I just bought my first 3D printer today (Creality3D Ender 3). But I am unable to assemble it. The 3D printer doesn't contain instruction on how to built it which I found very weird. I searched a couple of things on the Internet and I found this website, but after some steps I couldn't read it , I didn't understand what I was reading.
What printer did you buy? Usually, the build instructions in kits are on the Micro-SD card in the parcel, if you buy a Chinese printer.
I have never linked to a Google link as this is considered very impolite, but such instructions are very easy to find, you can get them from the manufacturer website.
The website you looked at is for an entirely different printer and in general.
Your instructions are in a PDF file on the mini-SD card that came with the printer. The official Ender 3 support site is https://creality3d.cn/download/produktdatei_c0002 and it also contains the Official Assembly Instructions (to me, the lower right corner). An alternate setup instruction is in a PDF distributed by Sain Smart.
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8256 | MKS 12864OLED Display setup
I've bought MKS 12864OLED and connected to my DIY 3d printer with Mega/RAMPS combination. In Marlin's configuration.h file there are these lines to uncomment:
// MKS OLED 1.3" 128 × 64 FULL GRAPHICS CONTROLLER
// http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_12864OLED
//
// Tiny, but very sharp OLED display
//
//#define MKS_12864OLED // Uses the SH1106 controller (default)
//#define MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306 // Uses the SSD1306 controller
I'm not sure to choose between 'SH1106' or 'SSD1306'... either way, the LCD module is not working.
Maybe you need to set more constants? E.g: #define U8GLIB_SSD1306? Also post a picture of your module front and back, e.g. is it exactly the same?
if I uncomment that too,it says: #error "Please select no more than one LCD controller option."
Are you aware that your module is different than the MKS from RepRap.org? You have a 0.96" display, the MKS is 1.3".
AFAICT, he has a https://www.reprap.me/mks-12864-oled-0-96in.html
First of all let me state that I do not own the module! The analysis below is based on old patches that worked in a version of Marlin in 2015, and translated to the latest version of Marlin of the 1.1.x branch. This is 1.1.9; this is the last version of the 1.1.x branch, all new development takes place in branch bugfix-2.0.x (dated May 2019).
The reported patches are compatible with an earlier version of Marlin Firmware (a version from 2015). Clearly this doesn't work anymore, but that should not be a problem, if it worked then it should work now provided we configure it correctly. The display you have requires U8GLIB_SSD1306, so the U8GLIB library need to be installed in your Arduino IDE!
Let's follow this installation guide for the older version as an example.
First, from patch 1 it becomes clear that you'll need to define that you are using a display that is identified by its name/type, you should uncomment the following line in your configuration.h in the section:
//=============================================================================
//======================== LCD / Controller Selection =========================
//======================== (Character-based LCDs) =========================
//=============================================================================
//#define MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306 // Uses the SSD1306 controller
to:
#define MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306 // Uses the SSD1306 controller
as you are using the SSD1306 controller according to this reference.
That is about the only thing you add in the configuration.h file! You only activate the name of the controller type (as in defining a constant) so that it is caught in other source or header files to do/trigger something.
With this change, you automatically activated the rest of patch as that is implemented in Conditionals_LCD.h!
Next, we need to address patch 2. This is addressed in ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h; here you will find:
#elif ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)
// MKS 128x64 (SSD1306) OLED I2C LCD
U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(DOGLCD_SCK, DOGLCD_MOSI, DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 8 stripes
//U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64_2X u8g(DOGLCD_SCK, DOGLCD_MOSI, DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 4 stripes
which clearly differs from the patch:
U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(23, 17, 16, 25); // SW SPI Com: SCK = 23, MOSI = 17, CS = 16, A0 = 25
as such that it uses numbers instead of constants. So we need to define these constants first. These constants are defined by the board you are using, more specifically the pin layout.
Looking at the pin layout of your RAMPS board:
#if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)
#define LCD_PINS_DC 25 // Set as output on init
#define LCD_PINS_RS 27 // Pull low for 1s to init
// DOGM SPI LCD Support
#define DOGLCD_CS 16
#define DOGLCD_MOSI 17
#define DOGLCD_SCK 23
#define DOGLCD_A0 LCD_PINS_DC
you'll find that the pins are correctly configured with the fore mentioned:
U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(DOGLCD_SCK, DOGLCD_MOSI, DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 8 stripes
We move on to patch 3. This patch deals with the reset/initialization of the OLED display. This is also already taken care of in ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h:
#if PIN_EXISTS(LCD_RESET)
OUT_WRITE(LCD_RESET_PIN, LOW); // perform a clean hardware reset
_delay_ms(5);
OUT_WRITE(LCD_RESET_PIN, HIGH);
_delay_ms(5); // delay to allow the display to initalize
#endif
Next to patch 4, in pins_RAMPS.h you see that pin 25 and 27 are correctly defined (apart from the name LCD_PINS_RST, now without T, but that is fine!):
#if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)
#define LCD_PINS_DC 25 // Set as output on init
#define LCD_PINS_RS 27 // Pull low for 1s to init
The only difference is that pins
#define LCD_PINS_D5
#define LCD_PINS_D6
are not set to -1, so to be consistent, you should change pins_RAMPS.h to:
#if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)
#define LCD_PINS_DC 25 // Set as output on init
#define LCD_PINS_RS 27 // Pull low for 1s to init
// DOGM SPI LCD Support
#define DOGLCD_CS 16
#define DOGLCD_MOSI 17
#define DOGLCD_SCK 23
#define DOGLCD_A0 LCD_PINS_DC
#define LCD_PINS_D5 -1
#define LCD_PINS_D6 -1
#else
#define LCD_PINS_RS 16
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17
#define LCD_PINS_D4 23
#define LCD_PINS_D5 25
#define LCD_PINS_D6 27
#endif
A conclusion from the analysis above is that you enable the display in your configuration file and add the 2 values of -1 for D5 and D6, but I don't think they cause problems if they're not initialized to -1. Be sure that the cables are connected correctly. Some modules have reported upside down connectors.
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9771 | Pronterface not connecting ERROR: A device attached to the system is not functioning
I'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 shield (board) and an Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper motors, etc.) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, etc.) on to the Arduino Mega.
At first I tested my printer without end stops and at that time it worked perfectly.
Today I added three end stops and tested again. First it worked fine but after couple of minutes Pronterface gave this error:
> Connecting...
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "printrun\pronterface.pyc", line 1053, in connect
File "printrun\pronsole.pyc", line 720, in connect_to_printer
File "printrun\printcore.pyc", line 46, in inner
File "printrun\printcore.pyc", line 197, in connect
File "serial\serialwin32.pyc", line 31, in __init__
File "serial\serialutil.pyc", line 261, in __init__
File "serial\serialwin32.pyc", line 71, in open
File "serial\serialwin32.pyc", line 186, in _reconfigurePort
**ValueError: Cannot configure port, some setting was wrong. Original message: [Error 31] A device attached to the system is not functioning.**
I tried removing end stops, re-wiring, removing all cables from the RAMPS shield except power cables. Still it gives that error. Although Pronterface connects to the Arduino board when the RAMPS shield isn't powered up. Also the Arduino's regulator is heating up.
Do I need to buy a new RAMPS shield?
It sounds like the USB to Serial port is either resetting or somehow loosing its configuration. Can you try changing the baud rate settings on the connection and trying to connect again.
I have tried with all baud rates. Still the error is there. I have tried to connect with the printer using different computer but it didn't work either.
Today I tried to connect with a new RAMPS 1.4 shield it didn't work either but it over heated the voltage regulator and the main chip of my mega board. Now I'm getting time out error with the mega.
Finally, I found the solution after frying up a Mega board. The problem is with the Mega board. Part of the board is not functioning properly or not connecting with the RAMPS 1.4 shield properly. So I tried with a new Arduino Mega board and it worked.
Also removing the D1 diode is the solution for the voltage regulator overheating on Arduino mega board as mentioned in question "Arduino Mega voltage regulator overheats with RAMPS board".
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9935 | Nozzle insulation gone, can the printer be damaged?
During a print a lot of plastic ended up ripping the nozzle's yellow insulation strap.
Can printing without this insulation around the fusion chamber damage the printer?
If there is no chance of damaging the printer, how likely is it that the prints will be affected by the absence of this insulation
Removing the insulation will not damage the printer, although it may affect the quality of the prints. The insulation is, after all, there for a purpose.
Allowing too much heat to escape radiatively from the heater block will reduce the maximum flow rate, since less energy will be available to heat the filament, and you may need to reduce your printing speeds or increase your nozzle temperature.
A bigger problem is that heat radiating from the heater block can cause already extruded filament to sag, especially when printing details and intricate infill. If the nozzle remains too long in any area, already extruded filament is likely to soften and deform. Without adequate insulation, the only way to counteract this is by increasing part cooling, and this will remove even more energy from the heater block.
Either fit new insulating tape or buy some silicone socks, since they are readily available for MK7/8/9 heater blocks. Then print a couple of Benchies, both with and without a sock, and compare the results.
There is not less energy available unless the block is excessively cooled by the part cooler. The thermistor will read the temperature, when it drops below a certain temperature the heater will heat up. It also does that with the insulation on. It is expected that the heater will be scheduled more without insulation.
@0scar You're right. I was speaking too much from personal experience. I'll edit my answer.
Thank you, I'll look into silicon socks. According to what I read it's thermal conductivity is far higher than that of the former insulation material but it'll still be better than just air, and it'll avoir PLA buildup around the nozzle which is basically what destroyed the insulation band.
The second paragraph is incorrect. That is only happening when the block is cooled too much, more than the heater can supply. I've been printing with (cotton and silicon) and without insulation for years, works just fine.
No, without the insulation you can print without a problem. I've been printing for years with (cotton or silicone) and without insulation, works perfectly. Although heat radiates from the heater block, I've never experienced issues that it causes overheating of your printed parts.
Note that the insulation tries to contain the heat in the nozzle preventing heat to leak to the surroundings (less energy is used/wasted). As such you may need to do a new PID tuning (certainly when the print cooling fan is incorrectly positioned as such that it cools the hotend heater block), but printing should just work fine if the print cooling fan is in the correct position.
I consider both answers deserved to be tagged as "the one", but I can't flag both
@MathieuVIALES No problem, it is good to have multiple answers! Mine does not address the damage side.
Insulation of the nozzle is crucial. I removed it and put a silicon sock on a CR-10. I constantly got heat creeps even at 10C lower temp. Then I removed the sock and printed a 12 hour part with significant quality loss. It did finish the job. With silicon it stopped after 5-6 hours. I suppose that with the sock the upper part of the heat block which is uninsulated leaves more energy go up than without a silicon sock. Then I put cotton all around the heat block. I even put the cotton at the side of the thermistor. And kapton tape. The results are really really perfect. Always talking for the CR-10 stock nozzle and fans. If you don't have insulation you need better fans. All the heat goes up to the heatbreak and softens the fillament.
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9956 | BL-Touch bed leveling seems to produce tilted bed level around Y-axis
I have a Tevo Tornado that I've outfitted with an official BL-Touch auto level sensor. I can see the bed probing run, and I can see the Z axis slowly adjust during x/y moves, so it's doing something. However, you can see that there appears to be a systematic tilt:
Any ideas what could be causing this? The bed, gantry and print head is tight, no wobble. Here's my start code:
G28 ; home all axes
G29
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
I have mesh leveling enabled with a 5x5 grid and correct probe offsets. The bed itself is on PETG printed standoffs instead of springs to eliminate any jitter.
would be good to know how it was before you've installed BL device :) was it better or worse before? as i suppose it was better than it is so my first idea is that the "correction" your device is giving has the opposite direction so it roughly doubles the difference
@darthpixel not sure why you think this made it worse, i made no mention of that. the behavior with the bltouch is better than manual calibration without.
i've said "as i suppose it was better..." as i supposed the problem "appeared" after installation of BL
The problem with the Tevo Tornado design is that the design is as such that the Z-axis is powered by a single stepper (under the assumption that you have not added a second Z stepper).
This means that the level relies on the rigidity of the X-axis assembly, more specific the play on the guide wheels. Apparently the BL-Touch level determination suffers (the up and down movement while probing) from this design as can be seen from the tilt around the Y-axis direction. This effect causing the tilted level plane is called hysteresis. Now that the Z-axis moves up and down you experience much more problems than using a mechanical switch. The effect is more pronounced when the mass of the hot end carriage is furthest from the Z-axis lead screw.
Note that an extra stepper can also cause tilted level when the second stepper does not move in sync (e.g. missing steps). In such designs, a single stepper (geared) belt driven 2 lead screw has better performance in that respect.
So is that the solution then? Add a second stepper?
Also - wouldn't this effect be present during calibration too, making the whole thing compensate for this?
@kolosy The hysteresis causes the tilted plane and the effect is more pronounced the further from the lead screw. No, it will not compensate as it measured wrong due to the design and the movement during the determination of the bed level. Yes, a second stepper would be a solution, a belt driven second lead screw is even better. The single stepper/single lead screw designs are cheap, but low quality solutions for Prusa i3/portal style printer designs
Do you have any links to details on how to upgrade to a belt driven second lead screw? Web searching for that gives results on belt driven instead of lead screw z axis.
@T.M. You could design your own. Or try this mod.
I know this is incredibly old at this point, but in case anyone stumbles upon this post like I did, I wanted to point out that there is no semicolon behind your G29 code, so it's not being read properly
This answer is incorrect, there is no need to put a semicolon behind the G-code; G-code is parsed by line where the semicolon denotes that everything after the semicolon needs to be discarded.
You only need the semicolon if you'd like to leave a comment on the line.
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20120 | FlashForge Creator Pro 3 - tlumping together
I am trying to do 48 4 mm wide cylinders at a time 5-25 mm apart and after the first few layers are put down they all get caught up together and the machine goes around collecting them all into 1 giant ball of filament. Any ideas? I set the nozzle temperature to 215 °C and the platform to 65 °C.
You need to list info like what type of material you are printing, what print speed, speed for non-printing movements, etc.
Hello, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Your question is lacking detail and as such is hard to answer without knowing a couple of things about your printer setup. Please [edit] and fill in the [placeholders] in the template I added and then remove the leading <!-- and trailing --> afterwards. This will turn it visible and help us help you find the actual problem. Also add a photo of the first layer when the nozzle hasn't picked up any of the other objects, it might indicate a lack of adhesion or an extrusion problem. You also might want to avoid crossing previously printed areas.
Is tlumping a word?
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20099 | Is a thermoplastic's glass state relevant for 3D printing extrusion?
From my understanding of FFF 3D printing, the glass state is usually used to heat the bed for better first layer adhesion. Other than that, does the extruder keep ex:PLA in a glass state for any reason?
Is the transition of the filament straight from solid to liquid for extrusion without any real regard for the glass state?
Note that the extruder feeds filament it doesn't heat anything, you don't want heat in the extruder. The hot end is the part that adds heat well over the glass temperature.
The glass transition temperature, the temperature where the material transitions from a brittle "glassy" state into a viscous or rubbery state, is always lower than the melting temperature. This temperature is of importance for adhesion to the bed; in a rubbery state the stresses are much lower than in a brittle state.
Is a thermoplastic's glass state relevant for 3D printing extrusion?
No, the glass transition temperature is not directly important for the extrusion, the extrusion temperature (where the filament is fluid enough for deposition and adhesion) is much higher than the glass temperature.
Yes, the glass transition temperature may play a role in the hot end in case of heat creeping up the cold end (usually some kind of radiator or heat dissipating element; usually connected through the heat-break), but not necessarily in melting the filament for extrusion. Heat creeping up with excessive retraction may cause filament to (partially or fully) clog and as such influence the extrusion.
The transition from solid to liquid is the important part.
The bed is heated for adhesion and kept heated for the same reason, but the extruder is a lot hotter and just performs the task of solid to liquid, the fans and ambient temperature cool it to solid.
Once a layer is solid it will heat up again when the next layer goes on it both from heat radiating from the nozzle and the liquid plastic going on it. This should give better layer adhesion.
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20221 | Under extrusion with Ender3
I'm having some problem with my Ender 3. I have been printing for almost a year with good results. Then, all of a sudden, the fan started to be noisy and the prints came out definitely not good.
From what I understood looking around, the problem could be under extrusion.
I replaced the fan (both of them actually) but the prints keep coming out badly. The software is always the same (Cura) and I never changed any parameter whatsoever.
This is what I tried so far:
printing with (four) different filaments (always PLA though).
changing the E-steps
unclogging and replacing the nozzle (twice)
re-calibrating Z like a million times
printing different projects, included those who I already successfully printed before
-> Nothing helped!
Then I was forced to also change the software (because my PC died...) But even with the new version nothing changed.
Now the extruder calibration is okay (I print 10 cm and 10 cm of filament are consumed through a hot nozzle).
Increasing the flow by 5 % and the temperature by 10 °C (I'm now printing at 220 °C....) actually gives better results (the calibration cube is more definite and more solid) even if under extrusion is still appreciable.
Calibration cubes:
Printing example:
I don't know what else to try!!!
Can someone help me?
Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Indeed, under extrusion seems to be the problem. From the second image it looks as if the print started out fine, but under extrudes in the upper regions. The images aren't very clear. How did you test the extruder calibration, with or without nozzle?
It's just because of the picture...under extrusion is present from start to end :( i tested the calibration with nozzle
You are pushing 10 cm through a hot nozzle for calibration, this is sometimes different in terms of pushing it under load (back pressure from the deposition/squishing of the filament). Although the correct calibration, the prints are under extruded, so there is too less filament delivered to the nozzle.
This hints to a problem with the extruder; these type of extruders are known not to be the best type of extruders, common problems with these extruders are a lack of idler wheel tension, broken and cracked extruder lever and wearing out of the brass extruder gear.
You should closely check the extruder during printing, it is expected that not enough filament is pushed forward to the hot end. You could increase the tension on the lever, but is is probably best to invest in a better Bowden extruder, preferably using a dual gear and/or using a gear ratio (for more torque). Note that you may require buying a new stepper motor as well: Problems with stock gear with no screw on Ender 3 pro.
In addition to checking for a broken or improperly tensioned extruder, I would also recommend just checking the brass filament gear and cleaning it. It tends to get caked with a mix of dust, filament shavings, and whatever else they absorb out of the air - maybe even oils from the nearby Z leadscrew or motor bearings, etc. - and this significantly reduces the effective tooth depth and thus grip. The soft brass teeth might even wear down.
If it's just dirty, cleaning it could solve the problem, but if it looks like it's worn and needs replacement, replacing the whole (very bad) extruder would be a better option. No sense spending money on just the gear when pretty much everything about this extruder is bad, and for not too much more cost, you could get a better one.
I can think of the following causes:
if the thermistor and heater in the hot-end is loose it can lead to weird results due to inconsistent temperatures.
the gear grip for the filament feed might be slipping and lead to inconsistent feeding and print outcome.
Hi Alex and welcome to SE.3DP. Without wishing to discourage you, seeing as this is your firat post, these seem more like questions requesting more details that really should go in the comments, rather than a definitive answer. If you could [edit] your post to turn the questions into actual statements of fact (which serve as answers) then that would be great. Otherwise, you answer may be converted into comments under the question. Thanks.
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20208 | How to apply manually obtained mesh leveling values to a G-code file on a printer without ABL?
I have a Raise3D Pro2, which if you are not aware, is one of the most overbuilt, overpriced printers that lacks some of the most basic features of an Ender costing 1/10th the price. One of which is ABL.
I wish to generate a mesh with a dial indicator temporarily attached to the carriage, and then apply that mesh to a G-code file.
How would one do such a thing once they have manually recoded the offset values for their grid?
Hello Benram, I've updated the question to temper the frustration ;-), I imagine you are not happy with the printer, for such a price I would have selected the Ultimaker instead. I hope you know what firmware the firmware of this printer is based on?
That was intentional. I wanted anyone who reads this to understand why they should never buy one of these!
That depends on the firmware, e.g. Marlin firmware can set a mesh through G-codes when the firmware is set to Unified Bed Levelling (UBL).
However, Raise3D is using a closed source of which is unknown on which the firmware is based. You can most probably not use the Marlin firmware commands.
If you want to adjust for a measured build plate surface geometry, you can always fall back on developing a software program to alter your created G-code source file.
If you map the surface you can describe the height as function of X, Y coordinates. The current height value should be compensated for that mesh. A relative simple program (or plugin, e.g. Python script) should be able to alter the first 10 mm of G-codes where you smooth out the mesh to zero compensation at 10 mm height. Basically this is what the Marlin firmware does, compensation for the surface geometry.
Thank you for the suggestion. A great idea, but I was hoping someone else had already coded such a script. Given how much hate there is for this model's shortcomings from other users, it would be the logical course of action. While it is technically simple and within my coding skills, I do not have the time to tackle such an endeavour at this time unfortunately. I will likely not keep the printer.
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20363 | Automatic Z-homing when connected
We have the problem that our machine automatically performs a Z-homing when our software connects to the Arduino, but only the Z-axis. We would like to disable it, but could not find the line in Marlin to do it.
Any idea?
The software we developed is called OC-Manager3 and the machine is the OCLab3 which is working like a 3D printer but doing different jobs of analytical chemistry.
However, if we serially connect our Raspberry Pi either from Thonny or Visual Studio to the Arduino (booting the Arduino), the same Z-homing occurred. Thus, it is not related to our software but obviously to Marlin.
Maybe share which machine it is and what firmware version? And what is "our" software? Homing on connection is not normal, so this must be induced somehow.
Welcome to 3D Printing! When you get a chance, please take the [tour] to understand how the site works and how it is different than others.
Most probably it is related to your config setup, I see that you have a MAX Z endstop, it is more usual to have a MIN Z endstop, but that shouldn't be the problem. None of my Marlin version exhibits this issue, it must be the configuration causing this.
Seems like you are looking in the wrong place. I am pretty sure that this unnamed software of yours is what sends a homing command when opening connection. Best way to test is just connect to it from another control software like Pronterface, Arduino IDE or any USB serial software and it will not do that because they don't tell the printer to home Z.
Hello, Gerge! Glad to have you here. As you mentioned, without additional details it is difficult to offer a proper solution. After gaining enough reputation, you will be able to post comments that can ask for clarification from the original poster. I would also recommend that you take the [tour] to better understand how the site works.
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20382 | CR Touch under Marlin for Ender 3
Just came to the 3D printing world and after installing Marlin 2.1.2 firmware in my Ender 3, which took a while and was finally completed following this tutorial:
I cannot get the CR Touch correctly calibrated, but it is correctly installed (physically) and recognized in firmware. The steps I´m following are:
Auto-homing. Which does a correct measurement from the center of the bed using CR Touch.
Probing the Z Offset. Which is strange because I got 0.1 mm instead of the -1.x mm or even -2 mm some people are getting in some tutorials I´ve seen so far.
Bed leveling. By default it takes 9 measurements and the first 6 are okay, but for the 7th the nozzle along with the CR Touch goes to low and pushes against the glass bed. Also, is there a way to make it work taking more measurements of the bed? Just for it to be more accurate and know more the bed it is working on.
Once again, I´m new in this but I have seen many videos about it, not getting a valid configuration in any of them. Is there anything to try out for it to work well? Also, I´m using OctoPrint for it, in case this helps or there is a known plugin I can work with.
Hey, what exactly is your problem here, besides 3rd point(Bed leveling)?
@kosteklvp the issue is that I cannot manage to calibrate correctly the CR Touch. I do the probing in Z Offset and when measuring the bed levels, 6 out of 9 points register correctly but the 7th goes too low and smacks the bed until it stops with a message saying that the printer halted and needs to restart.
Nozzle goes down on 7th point? Did you level your bed manually, e.g. with a piece of paper? Can you share your firmware source code? I would like to take a look at it.
@kosteklvp yes, I did a manual leveling, but isn´t CR Touch supposed to avoid this? What I understood was that it measures the bed level and saves the 9 points of reference for future prints. Also, how can I upload the firmware?
@kosteklvp, the firmware I booted into the printer is the same as shown in the video. Can you please check it from there? I wont have access to the physical printer for a couple days. Thanks
This video shows how to compile firmware for Ender-5, so it won't work for you. You can also find precompiled firmwares from official Creality site. Source code can be uploaded to some code repository(e.g. GitHub) and I'll have a look at it.
@kosteklvp but will a precompiled single firmware from creality work with the CR Touch too? I´m a little messed, I dont know if I have to boot only one .bin firmware file or I have to include 2 .bin in the sd, one for the printer itself and another for the CR Touch to work with it
Found one in creality´s website: https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3?spm=..page_1934481.products_display_1.1
Will the one for Ender-3 Marlin2.0.6 CR-touch or BLtouch firmware be valid for my Ender 3 (having a 4.2.2 board)
You should boot just from one firmware file. CR-Touch is just another sensor. Look for firmware, which supports CR-Touch (it should have BLTouch or CR-Touch in the name). This one, which you pointed, should work for you. You can find pretty good instructions in "BL Touch Introduction", that is available above on Creality page.
Ok, I will try this as soon as I get to the printer. Thanks.
Hey. Have you managed to solve this issue?
Your CR Touch is either installed wrong or broken.
Auto home checks for the X and Y limit switches then goes to the center of the bed and drops the CR probe tip. The probe color should be total blue and the tip of the probe should drop about 5-6 mm, going well past the end of the nozzle.
The Z moves down, the probe tip touches, the probe is pushed into the assembly, and the light turns red. When the light goes red, the nozzle tip should still be somewhere around 1.8 to 2.0 mm above the plate. This is the Z-offset, it’s entered as a negative because that much further the nozzle must move in Z to reach the bed.
Repeat the measurement, retract the tip, move Z +10 mm, and stop. The probe tip when retracted should be above the nozzle tip maybe 1-2 mm.
If Auto home works as described above, the CR Touch is set up and working ok.
The problem is your Z-offset.
Set Z-offset to -5.0 mm. Run Auto Leveling, it should complete without the nozzle hitting the bed.
Run this procedure to set a reasonable Z-offset.
Set Z-offset to -1.72 mm on the display. Run a test print of anything. If you see string coming out of the nozzle and not sticking to the bed at all stop the print. Set Z-offset to -1.74 mm. Repeat.
Continue to move down this way in -0.02 mm steps until something starts to stick, then once or twice more until you can run the test print successfully to the end.
Run Auto Leveling it will work.
Alternatively, the nozzle is not installed or tightened correctly so it extends too low.
Lastly, gross mechanical misalignment.
After re-reading everything again. The reason you crash and the auto leveling stops is because of the Z-offset set near 0.0.
The reason it stops at the 7th location is because that corner of your bed is high despite some sort of manual leveling. With a near 0.0 Z-offset the nozzle tip is barely floating above the bed the whole time and crashes on the high corner. The nozzle should be cruising easily 2 mm above the bed while the probe measures the delta z from the offset at various positions to make its correction map.
@agarza I don´t think its a hardware or installation problem as it aligns with the screw holes for both the extruder and the br touch itself). It´s a thing of callibration or software issue.
Today I tested a print and the cr touch didnt stop for the first measurement at the center neither, but went down too far smashing the bed with the nozzle.
Also, I cannot calibrate the offset to negative values as 0.0 is the point where the paper is barely movable, so I cannot go any further.
You say you are new to this, but you’re doing a lot of significant upgrades to the machine. Is this a “new out the box” machine or an older machine restoration? Most of the videos on YouTube are new machine setup demos for newbies.
In either case, the “gross misalignment” I mentioned applies but it’s probably not too bad. Overall, the whole of the bed is too high. Mark the front of each adjustment wheel and then turn each two full turns to tighten the springs and lower the bed. You should need to dial in a negative Z-offset to get the nozzle on the bed at this point. Try Auto home and leveling.
If your machine is a straight Ender 3, did you remove the Z-limit switch and hard stop assembly when installing the CR Touch? You can’t really have both.
These are both methods of signaling (through change of state) what the Z-axis zero point is. The advantage of the CR Touch is the repeatability of this signal relative to the bed. I hope this works for you, it explains all symptoms you have reported so far.
I did remove the Z limit switch while installing and tried to lower the bed down, but the offset is still at zero. I´m going crazy now hahaha.
Mine is doing the exact same thing on the latest Marlin Bug Fix, Ender 3 Pro, 4.2.7 board and CR Touch. On the 7th point it pushes super far into the bed and engages the springs. There must be a bug, I am going to compile the standard release and see if the same thing happens.
Hi and welcome. This answer seems to be a cross between a "me too" type comment and a speculative fix (which, again, would serve better as a comment). Please [edit] and update your answer with a definitive solution as soon as you are able, otherwise this answer may be converted to a comment under the question... Also, please take the [tour].
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20353 | CR10S Pro V2 Screen not working after replacing the hotend extruder
Recently my hotend extruder got stripped out so I bought a new one and went to replace it, after finishing, my screen wouldn't turn on and it is no longer connecting to my PC. The filament sensors light is on, the BLTouch sensor is not on and all the fans are working, from pictures I've seen there is supposed to be a light on the motherboard, but, that I don't see on my motherboard, all pictures I've taken are with the printer plugged in and on.
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20282 | Filament not sticking to bed/nozzle too high
Brand new Ender 3 V2 Neo with CR Touch. Set printer up, switched on, ran bed levelling as per instructions, and tried first print.
Filament is not sticking to bed. I noticed that the nozzle is approx 5 mm above bed when printing. On this model there is no manual levelling, just auto. Any ideas?
5 mm above the bed is the reason why it doesn't stick, maybe you need to explain what you did, it appears that you did do something (accidentally) not in accordance to the instructions. Please expand the question by [edit]. How did you slice the model, or did you use a model/G-code that came with the printer. The current question lacks too many details to answer; this generates very generic answers that may not help you fix the problem. Please [edit], thanks!
You probably need to manually set the Z-probe offset in the Configuration. The CR-touch is mounted a little lower than the nozzle to prevent the nozzle from interfering when leveling. This offset is not fixed and may differ per installation.
I don't know the proper way to set this other than just incrementing values until the first layer is perfect. Starting you will increment with 1mm per test and in the end you will be incrementing with 0.1mm values. One very big danger is though that setting a too high value, will press the nozzle into the printbed and damage both of them. There for I don't recommend this method, but it is what works for me when being very careful with the increments.
Maybe someone with a good trick to safely set the probe offset can comment or answer here.
For the older Ender 3 (and likely this one too), home it first, then move the z-axis to the nominal zero position (display shows z=0; from the question this will be about 5mm above the bed). Setting the probe offset will then raise the nozzle in real-time. You’re looking for a negative value, so expect the final value to be approximately 5 less than whatever value is in there now. Save your settings afterwards. Ideally, redo the bed leveling and recheck the offset afterwards as well, and save again.
Problem solved. Thanks for all the great suggestions. Yes, it was the Z axis offset. After homing Z axis set to 10mm. Set this to zero hen carried out manual bed levelling. After this ran auto levelling then set Z axis offset to correct level. None of this is mentioned in the instal instructions. Thanks everyone.
I'm glad you managed to solve the issue! Happy printing! Please don't forget to upvote and accept the answer of @Hacky as that answer has let you to the solution. Voting and accepting questions drives the community, thanks!
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20242 | Cut a Möbius strip in four parts with interlocking
I'm a beginner with OpenSCAD. I use to work with Rhino, but I have no more license and the new Fablab I'm working with uses OpenSCAD, so I'm learning OpenSCAD now.
The picture below shows what I want to do, I need this to be able to 3D print several parts to get a larger Möbius strip.
I found these scripts:
1. /*
2. * Möbius Strip
3. *
4. * r: radius of strip
5. * w: width of strip
6. * t: thickness of strip
7. *
8. * The model uses $fs to adjust the smoothness.
9. */
10. module moebius_strip(r = 1, w = 1, t = 1) {
11. step = $fs;
12. for(azimuth = [0 : step : 360]) {
13. x = r * cos(azimuth);
14. y = r * sin(azimuth);
15. translate([x, y, 0]) {
16. rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth]) {
17. cube([t, step, w], center=true);
18. }
19. }
20. }
21. }
22.
23. $fs = 0.5;
24.
25. moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 15, t = 1);
This one above is working and I found another one for the split :
module mycut() {
translate([x,y,z]) cube([w,l,h]);
}
difference() {
myobject();
mycut();
}
translate([u,v,w])
intersection() {
myobject();
mycut();
}
I simply don't know how to use those scripts together. Can someone explain to me a little bit about how I can manage this? Don't forget that I'm a beginner!
This uses four different pieces. For you purposes, would the resulting object be nicer if made with four identical ⅛ twist pieces?
Cutting to pieces
To cut the ring into pieces you can take the intersection() of the object and the quadrant of interest (e.g. using a cube, but a wedge would have worked as well).
/*
* Möbius Strip
*
* r: radius of strip
* w: width of strip
* t: thickness of strip
*
* The model uses $fs to adjust the smoothness.
*/
module moebius_strip(r = 1, w = 1, t = 1) {
step = $fs;
for(azimuth = [0 : step : 360]) {
x = r * cos(azimuth);
y = r * sin(azimuth);
translate([x, y, 0]) {
rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth]) {
cube([t, step, w], center=true);
}
}
}
}
$fs = 0.5;
xloc=[0,1,-1,-1,1];
yloc=[0,1,1,-1,-1];
//quadrant = 4; // 1, 2, 3 or 4
for(quadrant = [1 : 1 : 4])
intersection(){
translate([xloc[quadrant]*10,yloc[quadrant]*10,0]) moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 15, t = 1);
translate([xloc[quadrant]*10,yloc[quadrant]*10,-(30+15/2)/2]) rotate([0,0,(quadrant-1)*90]) cube(30+15/2);
}
Since tabs and slots are requested, we need to make some adjustments.
Add/subtract tabs to piece
All that is left to do is to cutout a "rectangular" shape at the interfaces. For that we glue or union() a tab on one side and extrude or difference() a tab on the other side, a wedge is used for the intersection() with a smaller sized width Mobius strip.
echo(version=version());
//debug = 0;
//explode = $preview ? 0.1 : 0.0;
//$fn = $preview ? 90 : 360;
//nearly_zero = $preview ? 0.005: 0.0;
tol = 0.01;
/*
* Möbius Strip
*
* r: radius of strip
* w: width of strip
* t: thickness of strip
*
* The model uses $fs to adjust the smoothness.
*/
module moebius_strip(r = 1, w = 1, t = 1) {
step = $preview ? 2 : 0.5;
for(azimuth = [0 : step : 360]) {
x = r * cos(azimuth);
y = r * sin(azimuth);
translate([x, y, 0]) {
rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth]) {
cube([t, step, w], center=true);
}
}
}
}
module wedge(h,r,a)
{
th=(a%360)/2;
difference()
{
cylinder(h=h,r=r,center=true);
if(th<90)
{
for(n=[-1,1])rotate(-th*n)translate([(r+0.5)*n,0,0])
cube(size=[r*2+1,r*2+1,h+1],center=true);
}
else
{
intersection()
{
rotate(-th)translate([(r+0.5),(r+0.5),0])
cube(size=[r*2+1,r*2+1,h+1],center=true);
rotate(th)translate([-(r+0.5),(r+0.5),0])
cube(size=[r*2+1,r*2+1,h+1],center=true);
}
}
}
}
xloc=[0,1,-1,-1, 1]; // vector indexed by the quadrant, negative value is the negative x-axis
yloc=[0,1, 1,-1,-1]; // vector indexed by the quadrant, negative value is the negative y-axis
offsetVal=0; // can be used to explode the view
quadrant = 1; // 1, 2, 3 or 4 resp. for xy, -xy, -x-y or x-y
//for(quadrant = [1 : 1 : 4]){ // now commented to used single single quadrant
difference(){ // for extruding the tab
union(){ // for adding the tab
intersection(){
translate([xloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,yloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,0]) moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 15, t = 1); // Mobius belt
translate([xloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,yloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,-(30+15/2)/2]) rotate([0,0,(quadrant-1)*90]) cube(30+15/2); // quadrant cube
}
intersection(){
moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 7.5, t = 1); // Mobius belt with smaller width
rotate([0,0,(quadrant-1)*90]){
wedge((30+15/2), (30+15/2), 10); // intersect with wedge to get a tab that extends the quadrant piece
}
}
}
intersection(){
moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 7.5, t = 1+tol); // Mobius belt with smaller width and increased thickness for better cutting out negative tab
rotate([0,0,(quadrant-2)*90]){
wedge((30+15/2), (30+15/2), 10); // intersect with wedge to get a tab that extrudes the quadrant piece
}
}
}
//}
Note that this takes some time to render (F6), the preview (F5) didn't even show because of too much elements. Just change the value of quadrant = 1; to 2, 3 or 4 for the other segments.
Please note that the image from the question is not what is created with the Mobius script, to generate that object rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth]) needs to be changed to rotate([0, azimuth, azimuth])
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20247 | My extruder failed. Is there any hope to recover print?
Yesterday I had filament that entangled on the spool and before I knew it, the printer told me to eject the filament. Unfortunately, then the filament broke. There is no way to fully unload it, no way to load new piece.
Long story short, I need to disassemble extruder-hotend assembly and fix whatever is broken. I'll manage, it's simple mechanical and electrical issue and I know my way around it. But, is there any chance to recover that print?
I'm lucky it failed at about the end of a layer. It's 0.3 mm layer height, so I can even use calipers to find out how many layers I do have. But how would I go about it now?
I used PrusaSlicer and the printer is a Prusa i3 MK3s+ so any specific guidance would be appreciated, but general guidance is also welcome.
In order to "resume" a failed print like this, you can edit the prints .gcode file accordingly.
Measure the height at which the print failed
Open the file, and search for when the printer starts the corresponding layer. How to search for this differs from slicer to slicer. In SuperSlicer, it's "move to next layer (XYZ)". Searching for moves to the desired Z height might work too, but beware of false positives if you still use "Z hop" for some reason.
You may want to choose the layer above the measured height as a starting point since the nozzle might scrape over the printed parts if you try to print the same layer again.
Delete everything from the line which moves the printer to the first layer up to when it moves to the layer you wish to resume printing from.
If you use mesh bed leveling, you'll need to remove that too - or the printer might probe into the existing print. If your start G-code contains moves that might make the print head interfere with the existing print, remove that too.
Also: Make sure the print head moves to the desired Z height before starting to move to the print area (on X and Y) - otherwise, it might again crash into the print.
Start the print as usual and pray.
You'll be likely to see some defects/imperfections on the failed layer, but the print as a whole should be salvageable in most cases.
It's utility print, I don't care about visual defects. Thank you!
I used Prusa Slicer and print is on prusa i3 mk3s+ so any specific guidance would be appreciated.
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20265 | 3D printing a part without experience in 3D design
I have a height-adjustable table, but the height cannot be adjusted as a gear in the motor has worn out cogs and it will not spin. The motor is functional so the only thing I need is to somehow get a that particular part. I have tried searching for the motor itself on eBay, and I found one, but it would cost more than the table did and I dont want to do that unless I know there is no other option.
I am inserting some images of the part and the engine
What I am searching/asking for, is some kind of database where I might find the 3D design or something like that. I have been trying to learn AutoCAD or a similar design tool, but for a beginner level this seems too complicated.
I seriously wonder if this part can be 3D printed as the original part, an injection molded nylon part, already failed.
I've seen this failure in a garage door opener gear set. It's wear rather than failure, but I agree that it's not well suited for 3D printing. Perhaps a 3D printed version to be cast or injection molded.
these nylon gears fail under load as a safety measure and might be purchaseable as spares.
The part is ill-suited for FDM plastic printing due to design
The part can certainly be printed on an FDM machine, but injection molded nylon is one of the best gear materials to begin with, and they fail in a very controlled manner that limits damage. PLA would shatter, ABS can't hold such loads, ASA is super hard to print...
The part might be usable if SLS printed
Nylon powder printing using Solid Laser Smelting might produce an appropriate replacement part, though of a slightly lesser quality than injection molded.
Check if you can find it in a catalog
Often, these are industry-standard parts. Some of the biggest catalogs for industry standard parts, that also offer 3D models are McMaster-Carr and RS Components. If you can dimension our the part you need, you might find that part on their catalogs. As the motor carries german text, I assume you're in Europe, so McMaster-Carr sadly doesn't deliver there, but their CAD catalogue is better.
Look for replacement parts or refurbishing kits
Your part has a number on its label - It's an OKIN OG 01, with a specific design variant under its serial number. Used motors with gearboxes of this type sell for 30 €, and new motors with gearbox trade for 100-120 €... And their teeth gears are available as separate parts for about 15 €. The spare part listing I found incidentally shows that the gear you look at is a stack of two gears, one of them splined on the other:
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20275 | Cura: Ensure wall thickness on curves
Is it possible to tell Cura that the wall thickness should be equal not only horizontal but also on a vertical point of view?
Example:
This is how it would look on a curve when I set wall thickness to 4:
No, the definition of wall thickness is in horizontal direction, not vertical or perpendicular. The hint info of the "Wall Thickness" option describes this.
However, if you have very curved surfaces that require more walls, but you don't want to have all these walls in the whole print is use a technique described in question Different infill in the same part. This answer describes the use of a different infill percentage, but you can also change the amount of walls; so in these curved regions, you could locally increase the amount of walls, e.g.:
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20491 | No filament extrusion using G-code from Ultimaker Cura
I am trying to print some objects using an Ultimaker 2+ Connect that is available at my work.
It has a slicer with a web interface and that works fine, but it has some limitations that I am trying to work around.
So I downloaded Ultimaker Cura and tried to use that instead. Unfortunately the files that it generates don't work.
The printer loads it and starts printing as expected, but no filament is extruded. Do any of you have a hint as to what is going wrong?
Working G-code
Non-working G-code (Cura)
Is the extruder moving at all in the non-working version? I'm guessing it's an absolute vs relative position mode of the extruder.
@LarryBud Yes, it appears to move exactly as it should. Just doesn’t extrude any filament. I experimented and replaced the start and end of the non-working file with the start and end of the working one and then it printed correctly, so it must be something in the start up sequence.
Yes, then it's the absolute vs relative position mode of the extruder. I would suggest making a super simple model, one which draws a straight line for 1mm, slice it in both, and see the difference. Make sure you have the correct printer selected in Cura so that the startup code is correct.
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20496 | Ender 3 Pro not auto homing
I have had my Ender 3 Pro for roughly a year now and have decided to make some upgrades.
I recently upgraded to a BLTouch and silent board. I am having a problem auto homing where the printer does its usual homing process until it gets to the z axis. It simply doesn't move and displays "STOPPED" on the screen.
Any ideas?
Clearly something whent wrong in the "upgrade" process. You should provide more information on the upgrades you have performed. Especially, how the BLTouch is connected and configured in firmware. If you have fixed the issue by now, maybe add the answer so others may learn from it. Thanks!
I would revisit and start again on your firmware. Sounds to me as if the printer is getting confused as to which Z Endstop it should be looking at.
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20498 | Auto Bed Leveling does not compensate for bed tilt correctly (Anycubic Kobra Neo)
Setup: Anycubic Kobra Neo (Firmware v1.3.3), Cura 5.2.1
I recently bought an Anycubic Kobra Neo.
It works but has issues with auto bed leveling. Specifically, auto bed leveling does not compensate for bed tilt in X and Y directions correctly. After running the auto leveling, the printer consistently prints higher up in the right back corner, compared to the front left corner of the build plate.
The problem does not seem to be related to auto bed leveling being disabled though. While printing, you can see the Z lead screw turning, so the printer definitely tries to compensate for something.
What I tried:
Print Z calibration patterns
Run auto leveling again using the attached controller
Run auto leveling again with the G29 command and prior G28 to home, followed by M500 to save the mesh
Add M420 S1 to start G-code (also tried M420 L and both together)
Reset EEPROM with M502
Use Repetier Host instead of Cura
Used different filament
It could depend on the way the leveling mesh is implemented, is it a mesh or straight mean plane through the measured points. How many probings do you see, 3, 9, 16, 25?
@0scar From what I can tell looking at the firmware it does 25 point bilinear mesh leveling.
Maybe you could change to a different leveling process, e.g. UBL or MBL and edit the mesh yourself to see if you can get it closer.
@0scar Is there a way to change to a different leveling process without flashing a different firmware?
That is not possible
Have you found a solution for this? I'm having same issue and been at it for like 5 months and still no level bed
Unfortunately not. I found it helps to print things centered, but i still have not solved the problem. Please let me know if you manage to solve it!
I've just been through the same problem using the flex bed on the Kobra Max, but it was there with the glass before as well, it was just a little better.
Some problems I did notice:
When you remove the plastic cover on the printer head, you will notice the strain gauge is already stressed by some wire pushing on the heat sink. If you tie the cover aside to make sure it can blow on the heat sink without adding stress on it and you do the calibration, it improved the results for me.
Something bad I did notice is that by power cycling the printer and redoing the nozzle touching step at the beginning of the leveling process, the pressure required to light the red led was not the same at all from time to time. So I guess the strain gauge is probably calibrating on power on but not in a reliable way obviously.
When I put the plastic cover back in place on the printer head, I could not have the red LED (on the strain gauge PCB) to stay off so there is something pushing on it while it is tightened so it has to be less sensitive when it's assembled (IMO). I could not yet find what is pushing on it, I would have to sit inside the box to see...
After having the leveling done without the plastic cover on the printer's head and having power cycled the printer until the nozzle touching step was the most sensitive before the leveling, all my test squares near the outside of the bed were good but the ones in the middle were much thinner.
What seems to be the major problem in this leveling process is that it is doing its leveling process at a fixed temperature (60 °C). So if your bed has to reach 100 °C for ABS, for example, the aluminum heating bed will expand but not the cold steel bracket holding it underneath, so the bed gets higher in the middle.
If you succeed to get even tests around your bed and only the ones in the middle are thinner, try to print with the bed at 60 °C (same temp as its leveling) and it will be perfect :). But yes, I know you want the bed at 100 °C for ABS. For this, I have no fix, they will have to update their firmware so we can level at any temp.
The issue seems to be mostly left/right.
The cause is a twisted X extrusion or rail together with a probe which has a X and Y offset compared to the nozzle, therefore it reads wrong values.
See https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/22791
If you cannot correct the mesh manually, try to straighten the axis, or add a counterweight behind the axis as heavy as the toolhead.
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20401 | Where did Cura get this ghost layer from?
I designed a very simple boat in Tinkercad and then I printed it. No problem, but I wanted it a bit wider. So I made it wider in Tinkercad and printed it again. This second version has a crack in the right side and it had some PLA mess in the boat. I thought nothing of it and printed it again. This third print also has this crack and some leftover PLA in the boat. So I checked out the design in Tinkercad, Cura, and in the print preview in Cura. Below are the results:
As you can see, the last image (the print preview) suddenly has this one (yellow-colored) layer which moves across the inner part of the boat. Exactly there, the boat also misses one layer from the hull, making a crack in the hull.
I then recreated the side in Tinkercad, exported another STL, and imported it into Cura again. But the ghost layer is still there. I finally tried all sorts of things, and when I recreated a little hole in the bow of the boat, the ghost layer went away.
I now wonder, how could this create the ghost layer across the inside of the boat at a place where the hole wasn't even located? And also, why could it only pop up on the print preview, and not in any of the other views?
What version of Cura are you using? Is it the most current version? Have you tried other versions?
Looks like an error in slicing. Check other slicer or other version of Cura, and see if this problem still occurs.
Your STL files is probably incorrect as caused by the Tinkercad model to STL translation. There are a few questions to be found on this issue. If you're lucky, @Trish may answer your question.
@agarza - I was using cura version 4.13.2 and I saw that the latest is 5.2.1 which I just installed. Using that, the weird ghost line is indeed vanished. Thanks for the tip! I install most of my software using an automatic updating system (apt/flatpak/snap), but I've must have installed this using something else.
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20441 | New Ender 3 v2: the printer backs the filament completely out of the extruder
I just bought a new Ender 3v2 from MicroCenter. When I attempt to start a print, the printer backs the filament completely out of the extruder, up the feeding tube and out of the machine. I'm running PLA+ in it. The first time, the nozzle was blocked, but it is still doing it and the nozzle is not obstructed in any way.
Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE, your question wasn't expressing the actual problem, so I changed the title for you. Too bad you are experiencing problems! Are you saying that the filament when properly primed in the nozzle travels backwards completely instead of advancing to the nozzle? Can you show us the first 30 lines of G-code of the print file? Alternatively link the file in comments. You haven't changed anything to the firmware and the connector of the Extruder isn't accidentally reversed into the socket of either the controller board or the extruder stepper motor?
My 12 year old assembled the printer for me.. as far as the G-code for the file, I’ll have to have him help me with that, I’m totally new to printing, he’s been doing it for over a year
Have you managed to print something? If so it sounds as of it is incorrectly assembled.
Thank you everyone for the suggestions.. I took it apart and reassembled it (my 12 year old originally built it, he’s usually good at these things) we found that the wires were reversed (at least according to him). It’s printing great now
You're welcome to hinting to the solution. Thanks for getting back to post the answer, please do not forget to accept it after 48 hours to mark it solved, just tick the check mark under the up and down arrow in front of the answer.
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20416 | CNC Kitchens flow calibration script - too little extrusion
I created some G-code for my printer according to Extrusion System Benchmark Tool for Fast Prints.
Everything seems normal and the G-code preview also looks normal. However, the blobs that are supposed to be extruded are really slow. So slow in fact that I first thought the printer had crashed.
I checked the G-code of that particular move:
G1 Z10.5 E200 F4.99 ; Extrude
So 200 mm of filament are supposed to be extruded with a speed of 4.99 mm/min at 4 mm³/s, which seems slow to start with, but I calculated the volume of that move.
$4.99\ {mm}/min = 0.08\ {mm}/s$
$cross\ section\ of\ 1.75\ mm\ filament = 2.405\ {mm}^2$
$0.08\ {mm}/s * 2.405\ {mm}^2 = 0.2\ {mm}^3/s$ which is quite some way off the targeted 4.
It seems that the F4.99 speed is applied to the movement of the Z-axis, not to the speed of the extrusion. My printer is Marlin based, so I wonder why the G-code is interpreted like that.
Have you used G91 command before? It puts the printer in relative movement mode.
ah interesting. the script actually puts a G90 at the start. but ill try it with G91.
ok G91 makes the whole patter look weird, but I found an M83; set extruder to relative mode but M82 should be relative extrusion moves according to the marlin gcode library. ill try it with M83 now.
I thought you are only doing this one particular line. G91 won't work in fully generated G-code. Can you share your full G-code file?
https://pastebin.com/BhhzFAzG
this is the unaltered generated gecode from the excel tool
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M083.html
It seems like everything is fine with your generated G-code. If the extruded filament is minimal, maybe something is not good with your printer. Have you printed anything before? Have you calibrated your E-steps?
hm, yeah the M82 doesnt seem to do anything.
the printer prints fine, already for a long time. i just recently switched from idea maker to prusa slicer which allows me to test all these fancy calibration tools.
Looking at the G-code, there should be a little difference between each extruded line. Can you add a photo of the finished print to the question?
ill try to get a pic but the print takes ages. I managed to print 2/3 of the first row and it took something like 2 hours. but the pattern looks correct, the priming lines are printed correctly and the blobs are also extruded correctly.
im wondering if my printer has some special relative extrusion command. its a raise 3d pro btw.
Let us continue this discussion in chat.
Except for that issue on the script, is your printer functional and printing parts normally? as if you are setting up the printer a mismatch in mm per step on the extruder is a common thing.
If you find that there is a problem with the tool, be sure to file an issue: https://github.com/CNCKitchen/ExtrusionSystemBenchmark/issues
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20405 | Print falls off the bed the majority of the way through a print
I have an Anker Make M5, and I am trying to print something that uses the majority of the build height, its roughly a 7 h print, I got an alert 6 h in that there was an error, checked and the print was on the floor and filament spooling out.
I don't think it's an adhesion issue as smaller prints are fine, and before it came off there was no sign of lifting.
Does anyone know what could cause this and fix that issue? So far I have added a raft to prints and increased bed temperature to 70 °C.
Are you printing PLA? Please update by [edit].
If a print falls over you have an adhesion issue. Do note that a raft is not the most sturdy support (depending on your options), there is always an air gap between the raft top surface and the bottom print surface. A raft is generally most useful when printing materials that have a considerable amount of shrinkage when cooling.
Increasing bed temperature might not be ideal either, depending on your material, if PLA, 70 °C may be too hot and thus too flexible.
Maybe a brim or adding "mouse ears" to your print help to improve adhesion.
So I should adjust the raft to be wider ? And the warmer bed was to prevent corners curling (which it did).
IMHO you should ditch the raft and use a brim.
done that and just started the print... we shall see in 7h.
@MrDDog Did it fall over?
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20428 | Extruder MK8 won't turn using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin
I am building my own 3D printer and I finish almost everything the only thing that I can't solve is how to start the extruder stepper motor. I am using Pronterface and Marlin. I can't even make the motor rotate in Pronterface when I manually set the extruding temperature to 0 °C and then try to start the motor, it won't start.
What I tried so far:
Changing to use drivers in Marlin
Testing drivers to see if they work
Testing the stepper motor to see if it works
Seting up Pronterface in different ways
You cannot drive the extruder unless you heat the nozzle to at least 170 °C, this is the default value in Marlin. This is to protect your printer from extruding at too low temperatures (which can harm your nozzle or extruder or grind the filament).
You can disable this feature by G-code using M302:
M302 S0 will disable the limit.
always allow extrusion (disable checking)
In Marlin, cold extrusion is prevented in the Configuration.h file:
// @section safety
/**
* Prevent extrusion if the temperature is below EXTRUDE_MINTEMP.
* Add M302 to set the minimum extrusion temperature and/or turn
* cold extrusion prevention on and off.
*
* *** IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO LEAVE THIS OPTION ENABLED! ***
*/
#define PREVENT_COLD_EXTRUSION
#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170
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20514 | Plastic for casting?
You mix 10 % clay with 90 % quartz sand, fill a wooden box 1/3, then insert your wax model which includes a funnel, then fill the rest of the box with more clay and quartz sand. After heating to about 90 °C, the wax will melt and flow out of a hole in the bottom. Then you can cast aluminum from the top.
Except I want to do this with 3D printed plastic, not wax. What material would be suited for this?
Have you seen this question?
Great answers, thank you. So either get a resin printer and directly print wax (expensive), or print a negative and cast paraffin wax into it after heating to 50C
You're welcome, does this previously shared question answer your question? If so, we can mark it a duplicate!
Sure, you can close the question
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20468 | Printer ignores G29 command
I have a 3D printer Ender 3 V2. I bought a BLTouch sensor for it and compiled my own Marlin firmware.
Now, my print run of the part is like this:
I heat up the table
Starting table calibration
After the calibration is completed, I click save to the EEPROM.
I start printing by selecting a file.
At this point, all printing is fine, but I would like to reduce the number of steps. Selected the print file and left. The printer heats itself, calibrates itself and then starts printing.
I tried turning on RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 and ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 separately in the firmware. The compiler won't let me turn them on together.
And to use such a G-code:
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Bed Leveling
G28 ; Home all axes
M420 S1 : Load Saved Mesh
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up a little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up a little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
The printer simply ignores the G29 command and starts printing without calibration. What can be the problem?
@0scar I still do not understand the difference between RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 and ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28. I have read many websites, but I don't get it. Can you explain it briefly? Thank you!
RESTORE_... restores the prior state before G28 (this can be enabled or disabled!), ENABLE_... will enable the leveling no matter what the previous state before G28 was. Personally I use ENABLE_.... You need to fix your start G-code and use it accordingly to the firmware settings. E.g. is ENABLE_... is set, you don't need M420...
@0scar it didn't work
If you "print" a file only containing G29 does that work?
@0scar I tried it, it doesn't work
Then you have a configuration error and as such not using leveling.
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20469 | Printer hotend heating slowly and faulting
I have a CR-10max that is about 3 years old and can no longer print due to hot end faults. The hot end starts ramping up temperature but is unable to get past 150 °C, unless I turn off the hotend fan then it gets to 250 °C SP, but it is still very slow.
The printer has two PSUs, one that serves the heated bed and the other that serves the mainboard, steppers, and hotend. The hotend PSU is rated for 3.2 A and outputs 24 V. When the hotend is trying to heat it still maintains 24 V, and I have even disconnected this power supply and connected a variable power supply set to 24 V and noted the problem still existed and printer was only pulling 1.5 A while printing. So, the PSU is not the problem.
I did not do any heater tuning prior to these failures. But I did change the tuning parameters to be very aggressive and no change in behavior.
I am beginning to suspect there is a compromised relay or the wiring harness from the mainboard to the point where the heater cartridge is plugged in is compromised. Not sure what to try at this point...
Are the connectors on the back of the box warm? I had a bad XLR-style jack on my CR10.
Have you tried replacing the heating cartridge? These things are built very cheap on the Creality Ender printers and will break down often.
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20526 | Printer can't read my G-code file
I've been trying to print a part through an SD card, but my printer doesn't show my G-code file.
I thought the SD card was not working but then I tried printing an old file I had and it's working just fine.
So I am wondering what can be wrong?
I also tried to change the name of the file to redo the converting from STL to G-code and nothing seems to work...
Can you share the file for us to look into? These are plain text files, so can you share through the PasteBin website?
Hello, thanks for your answer I finally was able to solve the problem. seems like the name of the file was too long that's why it was not appearing on the printer.
Great you solved the problem! Please add your solution as an answer and accept the answer after 48 hours! Happy printing!
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20533 | Modified cable for Ender 5+ LCD touchscreen
I wanted to upgrade my Ender 5 plus to a silent board as it makes a lot of noise. So I chose the BTT SKR 3 EZ board and started to configure it. However, in the Marlin configuration, there was a README explaining that the LCD must be flashed, which makes sense.
The thing is, it also says:
The LCD will need the cable modified to fit the SKR 3 motherboard.
Four pins, tx2-pa10 rx2-pa9 gnd-g 5v-+5v, (See the boards silkscreens for pin labels)
I found the TX2, RX2, GND, and +5 V on the LCD (as in the picture) but have no clue what is pa10 and pa9...
Note:
After flashing the LCD, when I connect it back to the ancient board, it lights up with the Marlin logo for a few seconds and then goes off. When using the SKR 3 EZ (flashed of course) nothing happen as I didn't change the cabbling yet.
By putting SOLVED in the title without answering your own question or upvoting and/or accepting an answer, the question is not solved. I've reverted the question to the prior last edit. Please take the [tour] and look into [help] to learn how SE sites work.
but have no clue what is pa10 and pa9...
These are identifiers for the microprocessor pins. You find these two in the TFT header on the right in the image below:
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20682 | Ender 3 CR Touch Bed Levelling X axis offset
I upgraded my Ender 3 with the CR Touch, and updated the firmware (contacted Creality directly to get the correct version). I got Marlin 2.0.6. However when I try the bed levelling feature the first point (nearest to the origin), always starts with the probe out of the range of the bed. While going down the nozzle hits the bed and the procedure is aborted. Not sure what is going wrong.
Your probe offset is incorrect or the bed probe area is configured incorrectly, this question shows how bed probe area is set.
Thanks for letting me know. Its a bit weird that the bin file I got from creality had that configured incorrectly though
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20524 | Square gaps and overlapping grid infill artillery sidewinder x1
I'm trying to print something that's very wide and flat, like a board that covers the entire build plate (300x300) but is only 15 layers high. I've chosen grid infill and it works at the front left corner of the printer, but at the back right corner, some of the infill lines get all squashed together and overlap.
At first I thought it was skipping infill lines, but I realized those same lines that are smashed at the top right corner even out at the bottom left and print as expected. It's as if the angle isn't quite right in the G-code and as the nozzle progresses along the plate it gets just a fraction of a degree off, which makes an exacerbated effect when the line it needs to print is so long. But why only on those parts of the print? The printer seems to think that one line is right next to the other line, when in reality there's almost a 1 cm gap!
How do I eliminate those square gaps and make the gridlines straight?
I'm on an Artillery Sidewinder x1.
A remarkable observation is that the grid infill lines on the right (of where some of the gridlines taper) are parallel to the to the left of the tapered infill lines. I doubt this to be a slicer issue, but maybe you could share the G-code file for us to take a look? It is hard to imagine the issue is related to hardware missing steppes as a result of some kind of obstruction as the grid line recover to the correct pattern, this really got my head spinning.
I think I may have found part of the problem. I had been messing with the settings in my slicer to let me print using the entire bed and I had accidentally shifted the model and it allowed it to be sliced which told the printer to print too far off to the right of the bed. The machine had to interpret how to print locations that its hardware wasn't capable of and this was what it decided to do.
Please make it a (partial) answer!
I think I may have found part of the problem. I had been messing with the settings in my slicer to let me print using the entire bed and I had accidentally shifted the model and it allowed it to be sliced which told the printer to print too far off to the right of the bed. The machine had to interpret how to print locations that its hardware wasn't capable of and this was what it decided to do.
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20659 | Weird infill edge problem
I'm having this weird issue; for some weird reason, the infill pattern starts separating from the walls and over time, the print becomes a mess. As it separates, it starts to curve, and you get this curved end rather than a pointing edge that touches the wall.
Strangely, for the first 4-5 mm of print (which is a lot of layers), the print goes all OK. Not sure what is the issue here, hardware, temperature settings or something else?
I'm using a Prusa I3 MK3S+ with Cura as slicer and printed it on 210/60 °C hot end/bed temperature with 0.6 mm nozzle (I'm using a 0.4 mm layer height with adjustable layer height, but that didn't kick in yet, the print is a very simple box). The filament is eSun PLA+.
Hi welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! It looks like it is cutting the corners (it either cuts the corner or deposition is not optimal so that it drags the filament). What speed did you use (same as for 0.4 mm)? Furthermore, fitting a larger nozzle diameter should be accompanied with a lower speed (for the same speed as for a 0.4 mm nozzle, fitting a 0.6 mm nozzle would result in a higher extrusion volume). Try lowering the print speed and comment. If this works we can answer your question.
I'm using default settings in CURA for this nozzle size - interestingly, it does not happen right away. As if at some point, it starts cutting corners, and then it gets progressively worse, and at some point it starts to skip, breaks apart etc.
Default settings doesn't say much, what speeds are you using?
it is 60mm/s - the same as for the rest of the print. The extrusion width is 0.6 (100%)
Try again with 40 mm/s (e.g. 0.4 mm width at 0.2 mm layer height at 60 mm/s will give about 5 cubic mm per second, a 0.6 mm width at 0.4 mm layer height at 60 mm/s will give about 15 cubic mm per second, that may be too much, 40 mm/s reduces to 10 cubic mm per second maybe reduce the layer height as well to 0.3 mm)
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20657 | Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer
I have an Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.2 controller board and BLTouch fitted, currently running Marlin Bugfix 2.0 firmware.
I needed to fit a new printer hot end and thermistor, but now the temperature is going wild and fluctuates up and down substantially from the pre-set temperature. The printer won't print and after a short time of E heating, it then displays an error.
I have looked at every video I can find and all the instructions I can find as to how to fix the problem and do a PID autotune but none of them match my firmware. I don't have the commands they say to go to. Creality must have released hundreds of different versions and none of what I can find match mine.
Can someone please give me detailed instructions on how I might be able to fix the problem. Most instructions I see on the web leave out at least 50 % of what you need to know. They tell you to go to certain commands in the firmware but in most cases those commands do not exist in mine. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Please better explain in more details: but now the temperature is going wild and fluctuates up and down. When does this happen, possible make photos or a video and share this. It is really hard to understand what is going on with your machine with the current description.
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20635 | Ender-3 Pro Factory reset/BLTouch Setup
I bought the BLTouch and followed the instructions to install it, but it ended up not working. After installing the new firmware, the screen started bugging out (pixels being out of place, always moving). And when I tried to use the BLTouch, it didn't detect anything below it; the light is always red, and the plastic part it uses to sense doesn't move and making my printer unusable.
I looked online to see how to reset my printer so I could re-install the software, but it mentioned a terminal and I didn't understand what that was. My computer runs Windows 11, and I'm fairly new to PCs, so a step-by-step would be helpful.
What is a printer console/terminal?.
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20589 | Replacing hotend without replacing extruder assembly?
I have a Lulzbot TAZ 5, and the hotend is broken. Is there any way for me to replace the hotend without replacing the extruder motor and all surrounding parts?
Could you possibly try to explain by [edit] what is exactly broken? Is it the thermistor, the heater element, the heater block, the heat break (metal tube that connects the heater block to the cooling fins) or the cooling fins? It could well be that you don't require a whole new hot end set, it depends on what's broken.
What @0scar said. You're probably looking for a thermistor or heater cartridge. The only other real possibilities for "broken" are stripped threads in the block (needs a new block) or bent/broken/threads-damaged heatbreak.
It should be possible to replace the hot end, there are descriptions available that describe how to service or replace the "Mini Hexagon Hot End" or known as "LulzBot LongBlock Hexagon Hot End Kit".
However, it might be a challenge to find these hot ends to be sold separately. You need to search for "Hexagon hotend" and may find a supplier or two to acquire one.
It might be cheaper and more robust for the future to replace the extruder/hot end assembly all together. If you look at the amount of hits you get for the Hexagon extruder it appears as if it is discontinued.
I know this is an old post, but I Stumbled into this while researching new nozzles for my dual extruder:
https://www.printyourmind3d.ca/blogs/tutorials/replacing-the-hot-end-on-your-lulzbot-taz-printer
This may do what you need.
Welcome to 3D Printing! Whilst this may theoretically answer the question, it would be preferable to include the essential parts of the answer here, and provide the link for reference.
The only link in the link you provided that navigates to the actual hotend serves a dead page. This probably implies that the hotend is end-of-life. Although this answer does answer the question, as in it provides a link to a workscope to replace the hotend, merely linking to such a site is not how a question should be answered. If the link dies due to link rot, the answer is not useful anymore.
Link only answers are not the way the stack works. -1
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20573 | What are these effects caused by? And can I get rid of them?
I am using a Cobra Max to print PLA. I am trying to print a computer / tablet case.
There are some "defects" in it which look like the print head dragged something.
I have used a magnification lense to inspect what is going on.
It was hard to take a photo of it, but you can still see that all lines are diagonal (which gives an even appearance), but then there is one "drag" line. It looks like the print head went to a new position and melted the lines it met on its way.
That line is not raised.
How do I get rid of that?
Here I have drawn lines to indicate what is regular and what causes the irregular look (a line).
Are you using Cura? If so, this is almost surely combing, where it performs travel moves across already-printed material without retracting in order to avoid the time cost of retraction and work around problems some low-quality and poorly-tuned printers have with large numbers of retractions.
To avoid marring surfaces like this with combing, either find the "Combing Mode" setting and switch it from "All" to "Not in Skin" or "Within Infill", or leave it on "All" but set "Max Comb Distance With No Retract" to around 1 mm.
If you're not using Cura, if combing is already off, or the above does not help, it's possible that you have sufficient overextrusion that the surface is bulging up above the nominal layer height, so that even an unretracted move over it digs through material. In this case you'd need to tune extrusion so as not to over-extrude.
Some people might also suggest Z-hop as a solution to your problem, and indeed it may help, but it usually introduces bad stringing that's hard to get rid of, so I would not try it except perhaps as a last resort.
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20546 | Is it possible to have very high resolution 3D scan with not too expensive scanners?
I don't really know much about 3D scans and so on, so I'm just curious about it. I need to scan objects with different forms and I want to know which level of details I can reach during the scan. For example, if the object has a small (0.1 mm) black point on it, will this be detected?
Or if the object has a really small scratch (barely eye-visible), will this be reproduced as a 3D model? So how many details deep can I go and at which price? (More or less)
Or do you know if there is any other technology that can do such things?
For example, I can see those small scratches or defects on a good camera, the problem is that camera does not scan the entire 3D object, but I would need to shoot each angle of it manually. What can I do to scan the entire object and get deep details of it?
A lot of 3d scanning is done with cameras...so what's the cost of a good high res camera? Or, alternate viewpoint, can you afford to store and process the resulting extremely large high res model? And now that you have it, you'll have to reduce the resolution to print it.
Ok thank you so much, so basically cameras are good enough I would say
Structured Light Scanning uses a turntable and a dedicated light source that creates patterns on the scanned object. The patterns are interpreted by the software to generate a 3D model. Photogrammetry uses a series of photographs, sometimes on a turntable, sometimes not. The software that does not support turntable use tends to use the apparent background movement to assist in creating reference points to generate the model.
The resolution aspect of your question is dependent on the resolution of the camera and the ability to detect and determine any variations in height/depth/width, etc. If there is insufficient camera resolution (Macro lens), the feature you desire to appear will not appear.
Photogrammetry and SLS are susceptible to specularity and "invisible blacks." The former is the result of a reflection of light, causing a bright spot that interferes with the calculations and dimensional determination. Transparent objects also have a similar problem. Blacks on an object are easy to detect by the human eye, often because they contain specularity as well. The dark sections are erroneously detected by the software as depth or detected as gaps/chasms/open sections. Spray-on powders provide a more uniform surface to remove these problems, but may not be suitable to your purposes.
Multiple cameras is one method used to deal with the necessary angles of captures. President Obama was the subject of a fairly complex photogrammetry construction as well as the subject of a series of hand-held structured light scanning image.
Image below from linked site:
Wow, thank you so much. So structured light scanning would be one way to go.
But I think I also need to turn ON/OFF some lights to detect some small details in the glass (some details are only visible at certain angle with certain light. Is this still possible?
You should expect best results with consistent lights. SLS creates its own light patterns and only ambient light should be used with this process. Direct lighting will wash out the projected patterns. SLS will pick up those details you reference if the operator changes angles appropriately during the scanning.
That, and light patterns swap between four different bar patterns usually: two horizontal, two vertical ones.
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20539 | How to see BLTouch probing results?
How do I view the results from the BLTouch probing on my Ender 3?
I have set up all the firmware and installed the BLTouch fine and it works as expected. But how am I able to see the results of the G29 9-step probes so I can view them in a mesh visualiser?
I don’t have an OctoPrint print server, as I know this comes with a Plug-in.
G-code M420 V will show the mesh heights of the currently loaded mesh.
You can use a console to send the command and retrieve the values.
I used Pronterface terminal emulator and connected the printer via USB! Simple really when you figure out how!
It would be beneficial to future readers as to how using Proterface can provide the information in the original question. You can get additional information on how to write a good answer in the Help Center.
Please [edit] and explain how. It is great that you have solved your problem, but it would be helpful to other users with the same issue to know the steps that you took.
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20553 | Can't get anything to print Ender 3 S1 Pro
I'm new to 3D printing but got myself an Ender 3 S1 Pro but have been trying to get anything to print for the last week now. I'm pulling out my hair!
When I start a print, a strip of plastic will be put down to clear the nozzle without any stringing or problems but when the main print starts it will string, not adhere properly, come loose, and fail. I have tried everything; the bed is leveled using a piece of paper on all four corners I believe the nozzle is set to the correct height. (with iterations +/-0.3 mm) not changing the flow seems to be correct but if the print doesn't stick to the nozzle, it doesn't adhere to the print bed and comes loose. I have also tried printing with combinations of higher temps and lower speeds but can't get anything to work.
Does anyone have any tips?
Some additional details are needed. What type of plastic are you printing with (PLA, ABS, PETG, etc)? What type of bed do you have (glass, PEI, tape, etc)? What type of bed adhesive are you using (glue stick, hair spray, Magigoo)?
Hi Jurre, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! We'd love to help you out, but this isn't just enough information to work with, please add some photos. Your question is lacking detail and as such is hard to answer without knowing a couple of things about your printer setup. Please [edit] and fill in the [placeholders] in the template I added and then remove the leading <!-- and trailing --> afterwards. This will turn it visible and help us help you find the actual problem.
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258 | How to minimize damage when removing an ABS print from a heated glass print bed?
Usually it will either will rip the tape, or break the print somehow. Currently using ABS on a taped glass bed with a layer of hairspray for adhesion.
After the glass cools throw it in the refridgerator. The print should pop off.
I moved to a plain glass heated bed with a brush applied acetone and ABS mixture. Using an old emptied nail polish bottle with brush, I added some acetone and then threw in ABS pieces until it reached a brush-able consistency. I then brush it on the glass build plate where I believe the print will occur, and it works very well. On removal of the part the coating comes with it.
I just found previously that ABS would adhere to my kapton taped heated bed too strongly to use, and so while this involves a little work before each print, it's overall better than kapton for me.
I did experiment with sheet metal beds coated with kapton, but they curl during printing due to the ABS thermal stress, allowing my parts to be concave on the bottom side. Easy to remove from the plate, though, since it flexed. There may be a good middle ground material but I didn't experiment further.
Any tips on part removal methods? Do you just lift it off or use a tool?
Most prints pull off without him too much trouble after they cool. Particularly solid prints with lots of bed surface area might require a little coaxing with a knife and perhaps a putty knife and some patience.
Might be worth to explain why such an "ABS slurry" works so well. Melted ABS merges with ABS well. But molten ABS doesn't stick to glass very well. However, if you create an ABS/acetone solution, it is far less viscous and can get in microscopic cracks and holes on the glass. Then the acetone will evaporate leaving the ABS layer which has "penetrated" the glass and pretty hard to come off. Since it's pure ABS now hot ABS comign out of the nozzle will stick to it well, but it is also better physically stuck to the bed too, so it won't lift like "regular" ABS layers do.
Hairspray on the other hand is more like glue, I think.
@LeoErvin many hairsprays are PVA based afaik.
I have had best results with ABS on a heated printbed
(untaped) with a thin coat of UHU Stic. It can be a little tricky to remove but minimizes damage.
UHU-Stick is a PVA based glue, which is also water soluble.
Glass has a very peculiar effect under heating, that can be used to remove extremely delicate parts from the surface of it:
Glass expands and shrinks differently to the ABS under temperature. Letting the glass bed cool down has it shrink, creating tension on the interface layer which can be exploited with a thin scraper. Putting the bed with the print into the fridge increases the tension to a point at which the bonding breaks. This results in the part popping free in several areas (sometimes everywhere) and easing the removal.
I'm not using ABS, but find that PLA parts printed on 60C bed with PEX coating glued on flexible steel are coming off pretty darn easy! At 9:50 into this video, ABS was printed on a 125C bed, and after very little cooling of the flex steel sheet (on a metal table) the printed part came right off. https://youtu.be/pSXgYwEcO6s The Pex/flexsteel/magnet system is great.
@CrossRoads the question was about a heated glass bed with ABS. Your combination is different and has different treatment needs. However, yes, flex metal sheets (removable ones) are very helpful in removing, they use a similar effect than the glass bed in the fridge: breaking the bonds in a way that usually keeps stresses minimal.
Maybe my comment should have been: don't use glass, convert to something else!
@CrossRoads Glass has its benefits, for example being super flat.
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269 | Can 1.75 mm filament be used in a printer that takes 3 mm filament?
As an extension from this question, is there any reason that you would not be able to use 1.75 mm filament in a printer that takes 3mm filament? I know you would have to change the filament size in the slicing of prints but would there be any other problems?
Also, would using 1.75 mm filament be possible if the nozzle diameter was greater than 1.75 mm but less than 3 mm?
Perhaps you should restrict the question to a specific printer, and the part about the 1.75mm nozzle should probably be a question in its own right (though it is right on the edge of what I'd consider a good-quality question, considering the answer will just be "no").
I was mainly asking this as a hypothetical question based off the previous question I mentioned. For the 1.75mm nozzle, I added that part to clarify what I assume the answer to the first part will be. I assume that 1.75mm could be used, but only if it was smaller than the nozzle. if you normally were using 3mm with a 2.5mm nozzle, 1.75 should not work.
There are some setups that can accept both with only minor configuration changes. The stock hotend for the H-1 is one example. You slip you mostly slip in an extra tube, and slide the hot end over to the over end of the knurled bolt and you're good to go.
Typically an extruder and hot end are designed for one or the other, and cannot support the other without mechanical changes.
The extruder may not be able to grip a smaller diameter filament with enough force to assure even feeding and retraction.
The hot end, however, is much more complex. The filament has to be pushed with force into the melting zone, which means the filament has to slide along an area inside the hot end where the filament is plastic but still put pressure on the filament ahead of it.
When you put filament into a hot end, the filament softens before the melt zone, but since the walls of the hot end are just barely larger than the filament it has no choice but to continue pressing down on the liquid filament below.
With a narrower diameter filament, though, the filament can heat, soften, then travel backwards along the sides of the hot end and cool in place, jamming the hot end, or at least preventing an even continuous flow of plastic.
Some hot ends will accept a small Teflon tube that takes this space up and allows you to do this with fewer issues, and if you like to tinker you can experiment with this, but be prepared to learn a lot and fail a lot as you find out the hard lessons of hot end design.
Generally you should upgrade your entire extruder and hot end setup to the size you want to use.
It may work for a short time but you're going to fill the melt chamber quickly and possibly overflow to a point where the filament isn't constrained causing a messy jam. All the molten plastic will likely flow backwards to a point where the diameter isn't 3mm any longer (probably next to your drive gear) but depending on the length it may just flow up, cool down and jam the extruder.
No, the filament would just pass through unheated and not do anything.
I don't understand why it would overflow. OP correctly mentioned that the settings would have to be changed; but once that's done, wouldn't the software turn the extruder motor only 1/3 as far to extrude the same volume of filament?
In most cases, the gap around the filament would be larger than the hole in the nozzle. I don't know the math to figure it out but I am assuming it would take less pressure for the molten plastic to go backwards through the larger gap than through the nozzle itself.
Now I have to go try this. My intuition differs, but the best way to know for sure is for us to try it... :)
You just need a teflon liner to prevent this issue (that's what the H-1 used to overcome this problem).
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20687 | I have an Ender-3 Pro, the platform goes to the right rear every time I try to start a print job
I have a Creality Ender 3 Pro, the platform goes to the right rear every time I try to start a print job. I do not know what to do. I am not very savvy on computer software, but I need some help.
I tried using the 3D pad with the same results.
I did a factory reset, using original controller, same results.
Back to the 3D pad, factory reset, same results.
I am using the Creality Slicer. When I select Auto Home, the platform returns to the front left side. When I try to print anything, it goes back to the right rear an sets there, dumping filament.
Can you tell us what happens when you try to autohome the device? Also, what slicer are you using?
So the bed comes forward and the extruder to the right? What is your start G-code? Does it print after going to the back-right? Or does it stay there?
Did your printer come with a test file? My Ender v2 did. If so, how does that print for you? If that works fine, then most likely, some setting in your slicer is telling your printer to move there. I found it to be a good idea to understand G-Code, and that allows you to reverse engineering problems that you run into. G-Code isn't hard, it's just a list of command
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20725 | How can I successfully set up my fans to run on my CR-10 using Marlin?
I have a CR-10 (original version), and I just installed an SKR E3 Mini V3.0 board, with custom Marlin firmware. Everything else seems to be running properly, but some of my fans won't spin, or won't spin correctly.
The CR-10 has four fans:
the parts cooling fan, which has variable speeds and is controlled by the G-code,
the heat sink fan, which should either be always on, or should activate when the heat sink registers 50 °C or higher, and
a fan inside the control box, near the rear of the case, and
a fan inside the control , near the front of the case, by the LCD screen.
The parts cooling fan seems to be operating correctly. The heat sink fan won't turn on at all. Inside the case, 3) operates correctly, and 4) spins very slowly and loudly.
I have read that you have to do something to the configuration files to instruct Marlin on which pins correspond to which fans, but any examples I find refer to Ender 3 printers and not to CR-10s. How do I troubleshoot the fans and/or edit the Marlin configuration files to set up my fans properly?
A standard CR-10 has a heat sink fan that receives continues power, did you change that yourself? Furthermore, fan 3 and 4 are also continuously powered fans, so if you have used the same power supply, and as such the same voltage, nothing can be different for them. Measure the output of the fans with a multimeter.
I've figured out some things since my original post. First, I had some of the connectors plugged into the wrong ports on the new mainboard. Second, Marlin is set up so that the heat sink fan turns on only when the hot end reaches 50 degrees, and the controller fans turn on only when any of the stepper motors have been engaged, and turns off a short while after they go idle. Third, fan 4) is dying, so I'll be installing a replacement today.
Thank you for your help, though!
Great to hear you are troubleshooting! Please make it a (partial) answer so that others may learn from it! Comments are transient and may be removed.
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38 | Conversion of 3 mm ABS filament to 1.75 mm
I have a few kg of 3 mm filament when I only have use for 1.75 mm.
How can I make 1.75 mm from 3 mm filament?
Note: I believe this will not be worth the cost/effort but am very curious to see what useful suggestions are provided.
In theory, making filament is easy. You take a 3 mm hotend with a 1.75 mm hole, and extrude the 3 mm (sometimes actually 2.85 mm) filament, let it cool, and then reel it up.
In reality there are a lot of pitfalls to making filament - if the pressure isn't even, the hole not perfect, the temperature uneven, you can end up with oval filament, filament with bubbles, or worse. If you are over temperature you may damage the filament and it could look good, but not melt correctly when used. If you reel it too fast you may thin it out more than the intended diameter, or too slow and you may thicken it. A lot of hotends use steppers, which may result in ripples in the filament, so you may end up building a nearly custom filament machine.
Resolving all these problems is probably not worth simply selling or giving away the filament to someone that can use it, and buying the right size for your machine.
If you are still interested, though, you might as well go all the way and build a full filament extruder that accepts raw plastic feedstock (usually pellets) as well as your filament, and convert it that way, then continue using it to create your own filament.
Your "theory" is wrong, the size of the hole through which you push the plastic only has a small influence on its size. Generally it will swell a little to become larger than the hole through which it was extruded, but by pulling on the plastic you can stretch it out.
@TomvanderZanden Which is why I tried to make the distinction between "theory" and "reality" starkly apparent. The die size influences the filament diameter, but there are many factors, as stated, and you'll have to make adjustments to make good filament at a given diameter.
The best option is to find somebody in need of 3 mm filament and trade them for it (either in exchange for 1.75 mm filament or in exchange for legal tender with which to buy said filament).
The next best option would be to cut it into small pieces, and feed those into a filament extrusion system such as the filastruder.
Exactly. Sell it, exchange it, or I have even contacted my US based provider and simply exchanged it. If you buy if from a physical location or have more direct contact with the provider, they may be willing to exchange it for little or no cost.
You could build a machine that has a nozzle with 3 mm input hole and 1.75 mm output hole, based on some designs for filament making machines. Or you could just cut the filament into little peaces and use them instead of the granulate in an original filament making machines.
There are some open designs for such machines you can build, or you could buy one, such as Filabot.
However, as mentioned by kaine, this is very unlikely to be worth the cost/effort. Best option for you is to try to sell the 3 mm filament to someone who has a use for it, take the money and buy some 1.75 mm filament instead.
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386 | Making your own filament
I"m considering making my own filament, with a device like the one at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:380987. Partly because it's another machine to build, which is cool, but also to save money on filament.
Has anyone here tried to make their own filament? My main questions are:
Is the quality comparable to typical off-the-shelf filaments? Put another way, with reasonable tuning can one produce filament that's good enough to use without a lot of frustration?
Does it require a lot of attention to tuning, monitoring, or other details (which make it less worthwhile / more time-consuming)? Warning of pitfalls to avoid is also welcome.
Are there useful things one can do this way, that are hard to achieve with off-the-shelf filaments? For example, unusual materials; better control of diameter, density, etc; or mixing one's own colors?
Quality depends on 3 things:
Quality of pellets (purity, fillers, color)
Where/how they are stored before and during the extrusion (humidity, contaminants)
Have a filter in your extruder to get rid of random junk and air bubbles ending up in your filament (250 micron wire mesh filter)
There's no secret formula the filament producing companies have, they just have very efficient and very fast filament producing machines (of course very expensive, too). But when it comes to vanilla ABS or PLA, it's almost the same content.
Personal experience: no. If you get the same pellets, store it in the same place and run your extruder in the same place, it should behave the same.
I don't think there is some filament mixture you won't be able to find anywhere, but you might be able to make it yourself cheaper. Example: mixing strontium aluminate powder for glow in the dark filament (come in many colors, not just green).
I'd recommend this design: http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-3d-printing-filament-factory-Filame/
It produces filament pretty fast (one full 1kg spoon in 3-4 hours). Just make sure you have enough experience to not electrocute yourself while assembling this as the heaters use mains power.
I personally think the commercial "hobby" extruders are not worth the money. I also own the Filastruder and it's just no different and slower than the above, unless you care about a pretty plywood case for your extruder I see no advantage and since it uses off-the-shelf parts itself why bother buying a kit like that than sourcing the parts yourself?
You can basically use any machine that pulverizes your pellets into small pieces.
One guy on 3dhubs, explained it in details.
My conclusion is that you can recycle everything using this data gathered from research up in link there.
Also, you can use any plastic material and pulverize it into pellets (even from the bottles) and you can try to do this process. Only thing that matters is quality of product.
I was thinking about pellets from vinyl records. I bought one big collection before one year, and there was around 500-600 records that are completley useless. So, you can pulverize them and repeat the process, because process of making vinyl records and process of making bottles is completley different, and uses different kind of plastics.
So to draw a conslusion: everything depends on quality of pellets.
And to answer on your three questions:
Is the quality comparable to typical off-the-shelf filaments? Put
another way, with reasonable tuning can one produce filament that's
good enough to use without a lot of frustration?
No, it isn't Your filament would be lower quality if you don't get a great pellets.
Does it require a lot of attention to tuning, monitoring, or other
details (which make it less worthwhile / more time-consuming)? Warning
of pitfalls to avoid is also welcome.
Yes it does. Check the link up there.
Are there useful things one can do this way, that are hard to achieve
with off-the-shelf filaments? For example, unusual materials; better
control of diameter, density, etc; or mixing one's own colors?
Again, it all depends on type of filament you like to use. I wrote about plastic filaments.
Vinyl records might be a good source for PVC, but the question is: is it a good filament?
Producing own filament is a challenging task. I see main pitfall in producing filament so it has same quality as you get in shop. You have to:
constant round-shape diameter
diameter tolerance ±0.05 mm
avoid bubbles and other defects
avoid object in filament (depends on pellets quality)
store pellets properly (high humidity is a problem)
Additionally you have to deal with spooling, because it affects the diameter too (if you roll filament too fast then you reduce its diameter).
It takes a lot of time and frustration to develop such a machine. If you would like to produce own filament, consider buying a filament machine:
Strooder (£960) + Strooder spooler (£192)
FilaFab (£745 - £1495)
ExtrusionBot (\$720) (Spooler included)
ProtoCycler ($1700)
FilaBot (\$1600) + Spooler (\$600)
If you would like to use different material then ABS/PLA then take a look on Strooder documentation - they confirm usage of PP, PET, HDPE, HIPS, PE, even wood filament.
Is it not better option to print directly from pellets? Take a look on Universal Pellet Extruder for RepRap (model).
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.319119 | 2016-01-25T01:51:24 | {
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319 | How to smooth the surface of parts printed with Co-polyester (PET) filament
Are there any techniques for getting a smooth finish for parts printed with co-polyester (PET) filaments? More specifically, I am looking for an alternative that does not roughen the look of the part - such as using sandpaper - but rather works like acetone baths for ABS.
In particular, I want to treat ColorFabb's XT filament made from the Eastman Amphora™ 3D polymer (datasheet). This is also the polymer is also used in:
ColorFabb nGen and XT
Taulman3D n-vent
TripTech Athiri 1800
3DXTech 3DXNano
Ethyl acetate (sold as a MEK substitute) is supposed to work for vapor smoothing PET. It doesn't seem very toxic (it's used to decaffinate cofee and tea, and as a nail polish remover), but you might want to look more into it. There's a post on Printed Solid's blog where he vapor smoothed colorFabb XT and MadeSolid PET+ along with a few other filaments and got some good results.
http://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035395-vapor-smoothing-3d-printed-parts-pla-colorfabb-xt-t-glase-pet
The links in the blog don't work for me, but google was able to find slightly larger versions:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/blog_2014-03-20-18.38.04-1024x613.jpg?16147388421280943481
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/blog_2014-03-21-18.16.28-1024x612.jpg?9543779874607042697
This seems like fairly reasonable solution for PET. Thanks for sharing!
I've found a chart which covers several plastics and solvents and only two of them (Chloromethane and Chloroform) are rated "D" which includes dissolving the material and both seem to be quite nasty and I doubt you will be able to purchase them without being placed on several lists.
Is it possible that something like XTC-3D from Smooth-On would work for you?
Also some more information on dissolving PET here, several sources also mention PET is affected by Hydrogen Peroxide but they do not mention to what degree the plastic is affected.
Thanks for sharing some great resources! I will certainly not be experimenting with pure ozone or phosphorus any time soon, but some product like XTC-3D could potentially be of help. All in all, it seems like PET is a fairly stable plastic chemically. Thanks!
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.319532 | 2016-01-18T10:29:58 | {
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341 | Updating firmware on Monoprice Architect printer
I just received this printer and while it seems to talk to Makerbot Desktop software I'm not sure if I should be trying to update the firmware.
The printer comes with firmware v7.2 and while Makerbot Desktop offers an upgrade to v7.5 I'm not sure if it's a good idea with this non-Makerbot branded printer.
I've also seen information on upgrading this printer to Sailfish v7.5, is this the same thing as Makerbot firmware v7.5?
The Monoprice Architect is is a bare-bones FlashForge Creator that has been re-badged for Monoprice. The Creator line is a very popular set of printers, so there is lots of good advice out there. The FlashForge Google Group is a good community to join: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/flashforge
The entire FF Creator line, in turn, is cloned from the original Makerbot Replicator 1. So you can use Makerbot slicing profiles for the Replicator 1. Just keep in mind that Makerbot does not generally test new software revs with their older printers, and DEFINITELY does not test new software revs with competitor knock-offs. Sometimes they appear to break functionality for non-Makerbot machines on purpose. So recent versions of Makerbot Desktop may not "play nice" with your FlashForge. The most recent "known good" free slicer you should use with this printer is Makerware 2.4.x. You can find links by searching the FF Google Group.
On that note, you may have received instructions to use ReplicatorG with your printer. But RepG is abandonware: development stopped years ago. It should only be used for firmware updates, not as a slicer. You should also only use the most recent version posted on the Sailfish page on Thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084
Using older versions of RepG with newer firmware revs will corrupt your EEPROM! Only use the version downloaded from the link above.
The firmware that comes with the printer is FlashForge's slightly-customized build of either Sailfish or Makerbot's Replicator 1/2/2x firmware. But here's the trick: Makerbot's Rep1/2/2x firmware is just an old, out-of-date, slightly customized version of Sailfish. Makerbot stopped keeping up with bug-fixes and feature additions a long time ago. Everything is Sailfish: just different versions. You should use the most recent official release version listed at:
http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/
Follow the instructions in the Sailfish manual from the link above, and RepG will automatically pull the right builds from the official mirror and populate a list of printer options to choose. The trick here is which build to download. As of 1-21-16, there is not an official Monoprice Architect build yet. Which would mean editing a machine xml profile to avoid the firmware throwing warnings. I STRONGLY recommend getting used to the printer using factory firmware before trying to fight with custom machine profiles... But here is the basic process to pick a Sailfish firmware build when you're ready:
First: which Atmega processor version do you have? The large chip in the middle of the control board will either say 1280 or 2560. You need to know which version you have. Bad things happen if you load the wrong version.
Second: What is the tooth count on the X and Y drivetrain pulleys? To my knowledge, FF always uses 17-tooth pulleys, which matches the Replicator 1 and FF Creator profiles. The Rep2 and 2x use 18t pulleys, so only use those builds if you have those pulleys. People often mess this up and their prints end up with dimensions ~5% off in X and Y.
Third: The Architect has one extruder and no heatbed, so firmware builds that expect those to be connected (Rep 1 Dual, Creator, etc) will throw errors if loaded. You can fix this from the LCD screen or RepG, but that's a whole separate question. Do some printing and learn about the printer before attempting any firmware update so you'll know what to do if you pick a build with the wrong parts.
Fourth: This one is just for the sake of completeness. Some FF models were shipped with off-spec heatbeds that require special firmware builds to prevent drawing too much current and overheating / overloading the power supply. The Architect doesn't have that, but firmware builds for those printer models (eg I believe the FF Creator 2560) will under-power regular heatbeds. This is just something you need to know with the Architect if you decide to install a heatbed later. But it's a really critical safety warning for people with those off-spec heatbeds.
If this all seems complicated, that's because FlashForge (and in turn Monoprice) relies heavily on the open source Sailfish project to maintain the software ecosystem behind this line of printers. FlashForge has some internal builds that they use for flashing new bots, but these are not kept particularly up-to-date. Nor does FlashForge release the source files, so it's quite opaque where exactly the stock firmware differs from mainstream Sailfish. In the long run, you should install mainline Sailfish. But it's ok to stick with the factory firmware until you get used to the printer.
To summarize: Because there is not an existing Sailfish build, you're going to need to do some investigating and some experimenting to figure out which build will work. Don't try that until you're familiar with the printer. Post on the FlashForge Google Group when you're ready for help.
I've just recently used the MakerBot Desktop (v 3.8?) on my Replicator 1 and worked out fine. It's nice because it provides a more user friendly interface for changing various settings (better than opening and deciphering a JSON file). I wouldn't recommend anything between MakerWare 2.4.? to this new Beta of MakerBot Desktop though
Since the printer has no heater, I'd advise some sleuthing
Look at the motherboard. Find the big black square chip and see if it is a ATmega 1280 or 2560. Likely it's a 1280, but you never know. This will impact which firmware build you use.
If you will eventually add a heater PCB, then figure out the size (wattage) of the power supply. It may be big enough now for a heated platform, or maybe not. I guess you can cross that bridge if/when you add a HBP (heated build platform). However, it can make a difference as to which firmware build you load as some builds of Sailfish will intentionally serialize heating so as to not put too high of a load on the power supply (PSU).
Armed with the above info, you can then decide if you want a 1280 or 2560 build of Sailfish. And if you want a build which will serialize eventual use of an HBP or not.
Serialized: MakerBot Replicator 1 Single & Dual (implied ATmega 1280), MakerBot Replicator 1 with ATmega 2560
Non-serialized: FlashForge Creator I, II & X (implied ATmega 1280)
For a non-serialized, 2560 build know that the FlashForge one is for a poorly behaved heater PCB and you likely won't want it. That sort of leaves you without a good, non-serialized choice. In a pinch you can use the ZYYX 3D build for a 2560. Or you can contact the Sailfish team directly: speaking with very certain knowledge, I can assure you that they'd be happy to do a targetted build for your machine. However, at present they lack info to do so (e.g., build volume, distances from endstops to center of build platform, etc.).
| Stack Exchange | 2025-03-21T12:54:44.319726 | 2016-01-19T21:21:46 | {
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