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7027 | Anet A8 prints not good
I bought my Anet A8 less than 2 weeks ago. The setup went fine. In the first 1 week, I printed a lot, and the quality was really good. Now, the quality of prints is really bad. The infill is terrible, like little individual sticks and there are strands of PLA attached to the object(see picture). My Cura settings are:
layer height: 0.15 mm
infill: 70 %
infill pattern: grid
printing temperature: 205 °C
bed temperature: 55 °C
print speed:35 mm/s (I reduced it from 60 to 35 thinking it might fix the issue, but no luck)
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Welcome to 3D Printing! Did you change filament, brand or color? If you did, go back to a known good filament and try your print again to see if it comes out right. Poor filament quality can cause issues. Even color variance within the same brand can give different results.
No, it's the same filament.
This effect you see is called stringing. Stringing can be reduced by changing any or a combination of the following slicer settings:
lowering hot-end temperature, (less heat means less heat input so less runny filament oozing out),
increasing travel speed, (increase in travel speed reduces the time to move to another point implying less filament oozing),
retraction, (increased filament retraction reduces the pressure build-up in the hot-end decreasing the filament oozing)
increasing coasting length (coasting means that you stop extruding filament prior to a move when the head is still printing, this is explained by the pressure build-up in the hot-end; ideally you set the coasting length as such that all the material that is pressed out as a result of the pressure build-up is extruded just before the head moves/travels to another location),
print part cooling, (see this topic)
In order to find the correct settings you will need to print so called calibration test prints. There are a lot to find on Thingiverse, just search for "stringing".
Your print temperature may be a bit high, but some PLA filament brands require that, I don't know if that is the case with your filament, but you could start try lowering that by 5 °C a time.
I think the temperature's the problem. I increased it by 10 degrees thinking it might help prints(not sure why). I'll try again. Thanks a lot!
Decreasing the temperature and increasing the print speed helped cut down the stringing. Thanks a lot!
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7159 | Compensating for smaller extruder gear
Assume somebody has a Monoprice Maker Select and has changed from the original brass extruder gear to a D4 Plus one, which is slightly smaller (10.6 vs 10.9 mm outer diameter).
This person might be wondering if he/she needs to compensate for this difference, and which setting that would be in Cura IIIP.
(Have never calibrated the extruder and am still not sure it is absolutely necessary, since the difference in the gear size is only 3%.)
Just re-calibrate your extruder steps/mm https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer
If you change the extruder wheel for a different sized wheel, you need to calibrate the extruder to make sure that if you ask to extrude 100 mm it actually extrudes 100 mm. This answer on the question "How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?" describes how to do that.
It is not required to flash your firmware. The G-code command M92 can be used to set the new amount of steps for the extruder. The Monoprice Maker Select has a Melzi control board that is running Repetier firmware. This G-code command is supported by Repetier firmware.
You need to be able to connect a so-called terminal to your printer. Applications as Repetier-Host, Pronterface, OctoPrint, and probably many more have so-called terminals where you can interface with the printer by sending command to it when the printer is connected through USB (please mind the communication speed of the board, called Baud rate, these are not the same for all boards).
Sending M503 will report the current settings for M92, e.g.:
M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z400.00 E100.00
Extrude 100 mm without the hotend attached so you can measure the amount that is extruded. If that is 80 mm you need more steps $ \frac{100\ mm}{80\ mm} \times 100\ steps/mm = 125\ steps/mm $
You now need to send M92 E125 and the new steps are set. Use M500 to store the setting.
You could also change the flow extrusion parameter in your slicer, but it generally not good practice, it is better to fix the printer rather than adjusting in the slicer. However, if you do want to fix it in the slicer, as mentioned in the comments, you can also add steps setting in the start G-code script: "To get around flashing the new values to the ROM, you can add this to the machine settings in Cura under "Start Gcode" this way it will append your values at the start of every print.". Note that other slicers have similar functionality.
Will it not actually be easier to flash, though?
@TomasBy That depends on your skills, in principle this is easier.
To get around flashing the new values to the ROM, you can add this to the machine settings in Cura under "Start Gcode" this way it will append your values at the start of every print.
@PerplexedDipole Thanks for reminding, good suggestion! I'll add it to the answer.
This will affect your extrusion rate. The best place to change this would be in your E steps located in the firmware but you can also compensate for this by changing the flow percentage in Cura, a setting of 103% (10.9/10.6) should get you close.
I guess calibrating is better, as it may have been wrong all along.
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7393 | Getting a Cura Raft to stick to the object more firmly (for ABS)
I have been have a problem printing ABS with Cura on an Ender 3.
I am getting good bed adhesion on the raft, but the object on top of the raft easily curls off it. See photo below.
Settings:
Bed 110 °C
Nozzle 260 °C
Fan 0 % speed
How do you control how strongly the raft adheres to the object in Cura?
Have you checked to see how straight your bed is?
@Paulster2: the bed is perfectly level, hence the very solid raft adhesion. Apparently it is the air gap setting according to Oscar below.
Please realize the difference between "level" and "straight". Have you put a straight edge on the bed to ensure it is flat all the way across, in all directions?
@Paulster2: I misspoke. I meant straight & level, not warped etc. The flat raft indicates that. The airgap suggestion below worked.
You should reduce the air gap option called "Raft Air Gap". Printing ABS optimally requires an enclosure of the printer, wind and draft cause temperature changes which could lead to layer separation.
Thanks for the airgap info. Will try that shortly. Re enclosures, my understanding is the problem gets worse the taller the print (further from heat bed). This print object is just a test, whereas the actual items I need to ABS print are under 8mm in height, so should be fine, but currently have the same problem.
Reducing the airgap appears to have solved the immediate problem of the object separating from the raft. Many thanks
strictly speaking, Enclosure is not needed but it helps
I had the same problem and this solved it. I also needed to reduce the "Support Z Distance" (distance from the top/bottom of the support structure to the print) to stop the supports from curling off.
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7412 | Automatic leveling probe offset; adjusting for one side ruins the other
When I adjust the probe offset to get the proper layer height and adhesion, one side is set right but the other doesn't work. If I decrease the probe offset (say -1.100 to -1.050) the right side seems to print better; if I increase the probe offset (-1.050 to -1.125) the left side will adhere to the plate properly.
Before I added the BLTouch and upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 I was able to print a perimeter square (with a little manual adjustment).
My Printer is the Ender 3 and I am using a glass bed and the model is this centre crosshair
I have had exactly the same experiences as you did with a inductive sensor on a Prusa i3 clone. It looks as though the bed leveling is not executed, or the level/mesh tilted. Please do note that automatic bed leveling is not magic, you still need to provide a build platform as level (and flat) as possible. A slate of glass is a good build platform surface as the glass production process ensures that the glass is very flat and easy to level.
What I did to solve the problem is that I re-leveled the bed and send the M420 S1 command over USB to the printer to enable bed leveling as I was under the impression that it did not use the grid obtained with G29.
On my CoreXY I also use a touch sensor (3DTouch, which is a BLTouch clone) like you do, even with that sensor I sometimes see that the automatic level is uneven (one side of the skirt has very thin/see through deposition, while the other side appears normal), this is most probably caused by the sensor accuracy (or an obstruction under the probe needle). There is a way to increase the probing accuracy by using double probing where the second probe is advancing slower to the build platform as can be seen in the Marlin Configuration.h file:
// Feedrate (mm/m) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z
// Feedrate (mm/m) for the "accurate" probe of each point
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)
For double probing you require to set:
// The number of probes to perform at each point.
// Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result.
// Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results.
#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2
Side note:
From an earlier posting it appears that you are using the #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER in the configuration file to set the offset. It is much more convenient to set that through the LCD menu (Bed Leveling -> Z Probe Offset: -–-) or send the M851 Zx.xx directly over USB or load through a .gcode file from SD card to prevent numerous flashing the firmware with alternative parameters. Make sure that you enable:
#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands
in the Configuration.h file and execute M500 to store the new setting set by M851.
Might want to change the first paragraph to "...build platform as flat as possible"
@CarlWitthoft It is intentionally "level as possible", but it also needs to be flat, good point, I'll add that.
When you say to send a particular gcode command over USB, is that while it is printing the file (and needs to be sent every print?) or while idle (i.e. just after turning on) to turn it on permanently?
@Liam I did this when it was idle and was fiddling with the bed layer level, as you I had one squished side and the other falling down to the plate not adhering and I have no problems with bed adhesion normally as I use 3DLAC and the bare Aluminium plate to print upon, it regularly sticks too well and won't come off unless the plate is cooled down.
Thanks 0scar, your suggestions have helped massively, there was still small sections where the bed and nozzle came too close but I have fixed it now by adjusting the x-axis crossbar (it was at a very slight angle), it might have been something different but the problem has disappeared during my adjustments of the x axis.
From the looks of your test print, this is unlikely all or only due to levelling unless the glass plate is abnormally uneven. You may have to check your extrusion (speed, temp, feed) parameters and/or adhesion (clean with aceton and/or prepare with hairspray or glue stck)
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7405 | Ultimaker Cura problems with build platform size and overhang support
I am attempting to print an axial fan blade, and due to the size requirements, I have to angle it on its side (despite only being 7.44 inches in diameter...). I am using an Ultimaker 3, which I thought was able to print 215mm (or 8.46 inches). This leads me to two questions:
Question 1: If my diameter is only 7.44 inches, why am I unable to lay the fan blade flat (see below - notice the dimensions are within the bounds)?
Question 2: What is so wrong with the surfaces in red that Cura cannot print, even with supports? I am using PVA as a support material, yet there is something wrong with my model in Cura. I checked the X-ray view and nothing seemed amiss.
Change your Support Z Distance to match your layer thickness and see if that helps. This is a guess on my part, but thinking there needs to be something set there (mine has a set distance of 0.1mm on a 0.1mm layer thickness).
SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your question contains multiple questions which makes it more difficult to answer as there are multiple answers. Please split up your question by adding the other questions in a separate question!
@0scar moved this to meta https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/368/multiple-questions-in-one-post
What is the status? Your second question is unclear, it would be best to copy it into a new question where people can ask you what you mean with "cannot print", e.g. have you tried printing it flat or upright? You can use extruder 1 as support extruder, the bed will be larger then.
Ultimaker Cura print bed size sizes (shrinks) when you enable skirt, brim or raft build adhesion options. Try to print without build plate adhesion option if you want to push printing to the limits of the build plate. Furthermore, you mention the use of PVA, using 2 cores, the priming print tower also needs space to be printed, this can be also limiting your build plate space. Note that you can define where to print the tower, you could try locating it in a corner where the fan does not reach.
From your screenshot with the fan flat it appears that you have selected dual extrusion. Note that the bed size depends on the amount of cores you use, from Ultimaker:
Left or right nozzle: 215 x 215 x 300 mm (8.5 x 8.5 x 11.8 inches)
Dual extrusion: 197 x 215 x 300 mm (7.8 x 8.5 x 11.8 inches)
As an example I have made a 7.44" cylinder of 2" height and put it onto the UM3E build plate to show the differences when you use dual extrusion.
This image shows the cylinder when printed with a single core:
This image shows the same cylinder, but now with enabled "Extruder 2" as the "Support Extruder" option:
Having an Ultimaker 3E myself, printing PVA might not be very good choice as you need to print a lot of support material when printing upright. PVA cooks easily even in the B core, it also needs to be very dry, PVA takes up moisture very fast and becomes useless after that. At work we have much better experience with break-away support material.
Another consideration why you should not print this upright is the orientation of the layers. It is generally known that the layer to layer bonding is less strong that the material itself, it at least provides a lot of notches from which cracks can initiate and grow. This means that if you want to print this, you should lay it flat, this way the centrifugal force is in line with the layer deposition direction.
With the correct layer height (read thin layers), you should be able to print this flat without support. I have printed similar structures like turbo turbine wheels with similar overhangs without support.
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7447 | Does GEL-LAY needs to stay moist?
POROLAY GEL-LAY is a kind of jelly-like material made by exotic filament producer Kay Parthy / CC Products.
It is a mix of TPE and PVA that is supposed to have a jelly-like feeling. Once printed, you need to let your print soak in water for several days to remove all of the PVA, then what's left should have a jelly-like feeling since the PVA will have left many micro-cavities in the object.
However, my initial tests end up producing prints that feel a bit like jelly when wet, but reverts to a sort of cardboard feeling once dry.
Does this material needs to stay moist to keep the jelly feeling or not?
No, GEL-LAY should not be kept moist to stay flexible. It is made from TPE and filled with small PVA particles. It is advised to print less than normal amount of walls and infill so that the PVA can be rinsed out more easily.
If you look at the way the manufacturer rinses the material, you frequently see ultrasonic baths that improve the dissolving of the PVA. Once the PVA is removed, TPE is all that it left, which is elastic. If your print is still hard after drying it means that not all the PVA has dissolved yet, once dry it will become gluey/sticky again like PVA, hence the cardboard structure.
would you mind linking to the manufacturer video you refer to?
Wow, Poro-Lay Gel-Lay is expensive ... $35/.25kg of the stuff ... that's equivalent to $280 for a 2kg spool ... yikes.
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16223 | 3D Print D&D Miniatures delicate supports
Any hints or suggestions (filament type? suggested settings? model sources?) for 3D printing minis to use in Dungeons & Dragons?
I've done a couple where the support structures were difficult to break off without breaking off a hand or something.
I have a Lulzbot Mini (1), single-extruder if that makes any difference.
get a set of needle files and some good paint.
... or a scalpel. How exactly are you currently removing the supports?
I've been using a pair of nail clippers, the type that are shaped like pliers. They are sharp and are meant for cutting.
There are adequate demonstration videos on YouTube showing that it is possible to print very acceptable 28 mm scale miniatures with FDM printers, easily rivaling the quality of resin printers from only a few years ago.
There are a couple of key requirements to get optimum quality for small, highly detailed parts (like miniatures): the smallest practical nozzle (0.2 mm seems to be elected), the smallest practical layer height (for 0.2 mm nozzle, this seems to be 0.1 mm), and optimal temperature and cooling. Supports, if needed, can be optimized for layer skip, interface, and traditional or tree style. It may take several test prints to find the best combination, but once found this should remain fairly constant for a given printer and filament choice.
The final ingredient, of course, is patience -- small nozzle, fine layer height, possibly reduced print speed required for those, mean these prints will take longer than you'd think for the size of the final object -- but if you get the settings right, and are willing to wait, you can get good miniatures with FDM.
For filament choice, I'd suggest PLA, generally -- it's very tolerant stuff, except for temperature, and you aren't likely to leave your minis on the dash of your car in the sun anyway.
PETG can be finnicky to print on some printers, but is usually easy at low speeds and might be a better choice because it's less brittle.
Buckle up, this is going to be rough:
FDM printers are not the best choice for printing figurines in the 25 to 40 mm scale that is typical for wargaming and D&D games. Resolution-wise, that's the area of resin printers.
But there are ways to get some partially decent prints made:
you might want a small nozzle. 0.2 is about the smallest you can do without specialty extruders, so there is our lower limit.
You need to make sure to have a minimum layer time set, especially as the crosssections of figures are often rather slim.
Overhangs can be a pain
You might be better-served printing "meeples" than actual figurines.
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16200 | After sitting for a week first layer won't adhere
Last week I set up my Ender 3 V2 and it seemed to work perfectly out of the box. I leveled the bed, did a test print, and discovered that the nozzle was too low (successful print but elephant foot). Re-leveled at a slightly higher height (lower bed level) and was able to produce a very lovely benchy and dog.
Then I turned it off and let it sit a week until I had something to actually print. Now the first layer fails almost immediately. It will put down a line and when the nozzle comes back around it will knock it around producing a spaghetti monster. I've tried re-leveling, cleaning the bed with rubbing alcohol, using previous G-code that worked fine last week, positioning models in different spots on the bed when slicing, but no matter what I do, nothing seems to stick.
I've cleaned the bed as well. It is quite dusty here so it definitely needed that, but it doesn't seem to have fixed the issue.
See if this answer helps: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11673/ender-3-with-bltouch-prints-slanted-lines
Give us a picture of the result mid-print, just before the nozzle wipes it off. It can give us a ton of information.
After a week, the springs may have settled and the bed may need releveling. Did you level the bed again?
If your having first layer adhesion issues:
Please try one (or more) of the following (Start with #1), and remember that all of them are equally important!
Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))
Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper towel)
Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60 °C)
Check your nozzle height (.15 - .25 mm is what I use)
Lastly, use bed adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy to remove), then use a glue stick or even hair spray if necessary.
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16279 | BLTouch not levelling correctly (it does seem to work, just not accurately enough)
My setup
Ender 3
Creality glass bed
Creality 3D BL Touch auto bed levelling kit v1
Creality 3D silent mainboard v4.2.7
OctoPrint running on a Raspberry Pi 4 connected over USB (with the 5 V pin covered with a piece of tape to prevent powering the mainboard)
Problem
Despite starting with G28 & G29 in my G-code file, and the printer & BLTouch doing a proper bed levelling (the BLTouch seems to work as intended), the first layer comes out uneven. Please find some pictures below of a test print (this one). I hope the pictures show clearly that the nozzle is too close in the bottom left, and too far in the top right (top left is also a bit far, and bottom right a bit close).
I've done days of research, all over the web, Reddit, forums & YouTube and tried numerous fixes, to no avail
What I've done to try to fix / debug 1: Observe z compensation
When I do a test print with a bed levelling at the start, I observe the z-axis go up and down during the print, suggesting the printer is trying to compensate based on the readings from the start of the print. It just seems it's not compensating enough (or too much).
When I run a M420 V I get (which implies it has the mesh loaded):
Send: M420 V
Communication timeout while idle, trying to trigger response from printer. Configure long running commands or increase communication timeout if that happens regularly on specific commands or long moves.
Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:
Recv: 0 1 2 3 4
Recv: 0 +1.245 +1.257 +1.282 +1.332 +1.342
Recv: 1 +1.187 +1.167 +1.130 +1.127 +1.147
Recv: 2 +1.082 +1.080 +1.057 +1.077 +1.085
Recv: 3 +1.202 +1.147 +1.057 +1.000 +0.957
Recv: 4 +1.192 +1.180 +1.117 +1.085 +1.027
Recv:
Recv: echo:Bed Leveling ON
Recv: echo:Fade Height 10.00
Recv: ok P15 B3
What I've done to try to fix / debug 2: Level the bed as much as possible
I've tried to level the bed as best as possible. As you can observe from the M420 V command the bed is pretty level. This was done using the Bed Level Visualizer plugin from OctoPrint.
What I've done to try to fix / debug 3: I've changed from a 3x3 grid to a 5x5 grid
As advised in several places the bed levelling is now done with a 5x5 grid. This didn't make a (noticeable) difference.
What I've done to try to fix / debug 4: I've updated the firmware
I used to run on the Creality firmware. I've downloaded new firmware from marlin.crc.id.au (did that today, so using Ender3-v4.2.7-BLTouch-20210511.bin). Didn't help.
What I've done to try to fix / debug 5: I've calibrated the Z-offset
I've done a lot of tests, tweaking the z value to the current value, where part of the bed comes too close to the nozzle, and part of the bed stays too far away. So the Z-offset is not going to be able to improve anything I believe.
What I've done to try to fix / debug 6: I've done all the regular hardware tweaks
I've checked all the common things: Belts are tight, wheels are properly tightened, nothing is wobbly, Z-axis is clean.
What I've done to try to fix / debug 7: I've tried to add M420 S
I've tried to add the M420 command after the G29 command (I know it shouldn't be needed, as G29 enables bed levelling, but just wanted to make sure)
Reference: My printer M503 settings
echo: G21 ; Units in mm (mm)
echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:; Filament settings: Disabled
echo: M200 S0 D1.75
echo:; Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00
echo:; Maximum feedrates (units/s):
echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E50.00
echo:; Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
echo: M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00
echo:; Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel>
echo: M204 P500.00 R500.00 T500.00
echo:; Advanced: B<min_segment_time_us> S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> X<max_x_jerk> Y<max_y_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>
echo: M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E15.00
echo:; Home offset:
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:; Auto Bed Leveling:
echo: M420 S1 Z10.00
echo: G29 W I0 J0 Z1.24499
echo: G29 W I1 J0 Z1.25749
echo: G29 W I2 J0 Z1.28249
echo: G29 W I3 J0 Z1.33249
echo: G29 W I4 J0 Z1.34249
echo: G29 W I0 J1 Z1.18749
echo: G29 W I1 J1 Z1.16749
echo: G29 W I2 J1 Z1.12999
echo: G29 W I3 J1 Z1.12749
echo: G29 W I4 J1 Z1.14749
echo: G29 W I0 J2 Z1.08249
echo: G29 W I1 J2 Z1.07999
echo: G29 W I2 J2 Z1.05749
echo: G29 W I3 J2 Z1.07749
echo: G29 W I4 J2 Z1.08499
echo: G29 W I0 J3 Z1.20249
echo: G29 W I1 J3 Z1.14749
echo: G29 W I2 J3 Z1.05749
echo: G29 W I3 J3 Z0.99999
echo: G29 W I4 J3 Z0.95749
echo: G29 W I0 J4 Z1.19249
echo: G29 W I1 J4 Z1.17999
echo: G29 W I2 J4 Z1.11749
echo: G29 W I3 J4 Z1.08499
echo: G29 W I4 J4 Z1.02749
echo:; Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H200.00 B60.00 F255
echo: M145 S1 H240.00 B70.00 F255
echo:; PID settings:
echo: M301 P21.73 I1.54 D76.55
echo:; Retract: S<length> F<units/m> Z<lift>
echo: M207 S3.00 W13.00 F4800.00 Z0.30
echo:; Recover: S<length> F<units/m>
echo: M208 S0.00 W0.00 F4800.00
echo:; Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo: M851 X-45.00 Y-7.00 Z-3.30
echo:; Filament load/unload lengths:
echo: M603 L415.00 U450.00
echo:; Filament runout sensor:
echo: M412 S0 D8.00
ok P15 B3
Reference: The start of my G-code file
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:775
;Filament used: 0.480677m
;Layer height: 0.2
;MINX:16.516
;MINY:16.515
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:218.485
;MAXY:218.485
;MAXZ:0.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.0
M140 S60
M105
M190 S60
M104 S215
M105
M109 S215
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto bed levelling
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F2700 E-5
;LAYER_COUNT:1
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F6000 X26.14 Y20.098 Z0.2
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F2700 E0
Reference: Congifuration.h
As I've used two precompiled firmwares (see point 4 above), I don't have a Congifuration.h to share.
Concluding
I hope I've given a detailed enough account for you guys to help me. If you have any additional questions I'll try to answer them as quickly as possible. Thanks a million!
Did you ever solve this? I believe I have the same situation. I've followed similar debugging steps. I manually tested each if the 16 test points and found that their correction value was out on average by 0.02 up to 0.14mm.
Unfortunately not
Had similar problems. I even did a 10x10 grid just to find out that my printing bed wasn't actually flat.
It actually had dips in it.
I would have to look up the command, but I actually just lowered the nozzle by 0.050 mm at a time. Eventually it got too low, and then I backed it off in even smaller increments.
I also had to print with a raft so any extreme dips are held together on top of the raft.
I had the exact same issue as you and had done all the fixes you mentioned. The only thing that solved it for me was to make sure the model in the slicing software was flat to the "bed".
I use Cura and it has a "flat the bed" option which I only discovered due to a model that was slightly off which caused the top and bottom layer to half.
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16304 | Stepper motor moving only to one side after reset
I come through this post, rescue a problem with my printer. It uses Arduino 2560 Mega, RAMPS 1.4, and Marlin 1.1.9, which had configured it left it working as follows: on the RAMPS the Y-axis is connected to the Z-axis pins, as it has two stepper motors on the Y-axis and the Z-axis is connected to the pins of E1.
I did all the basic and necessary configurations in the firmware and sent it to the Arduino, eliminating the previous configuration, so that I can configure the steps of the motor correctly, as they were out of calibration. Before the reset, the motors moved to both sides, positive and negative. However, when I sent the firmware to the Arduino, I can only rotate the motors on all axes only to one side.
On the printer display, I go to the option to move the axis, rotate it 10 mm and the axis moves. However when I move it backwards, it does not come back, it is stopped. This happens with all the axes after I did the reset. Is there any way to configure the rotation of the motors by the firmware in relation to pins A1, A2, B1, and B2 in the same way that the axis change on the RAMPS was configured?
I apologize for the mistakes, I speak Portuguese and I used a translator.
I executed the command M119 on the console of the Marlin IDE and the printer did nothing, it is correctly connected to the PC via the USB cable
this appeared on the console screen:
x_min: TRIGGERED
y_min: TRIGGERED
z_min: open
ok
Do you have minimum endstops enabled? Did you check state of endstops?
Presumably, you need to home an axis before it will move in both directions.
Yes, the endstops are active, following a tutorial that I was following on configuration, it is this configuration, leave the options of the mechanical endstop in true
Assuming that your M119 command has been executed for non-depressed endstop switches, it could be concluded that the firmware is incorrectly configured.
If you execute the M119 G-code command and get TRIGGERED status values for endstops, even when the nozzle head is not pressing the endstop switches, then you have incorrectly configured the endstops in the Marlin configuration.h file.
The most common setup is to have the COM go to ground and NC to Signal, this requires the following values to be false, otherwise you need to use true.
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true// Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true// Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
When an endstop is reported to be triggered while the switch is not depressed, the logic needs to be reversed. Marlin firmware will only allow movement to go away from the endstop when it is triggered, never against a triggered endstop (as this might damage the printer).
sorry for the delay in responding, i had little time these days. Anyway, here I left it configured like this
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false
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16267 | How do I change Z safe homing coordinates in the G-code , not in Marlin
I bought a Vivedino T-Rex 3 not realizing it doesn't have continue after power failure. I am over it. What I usually do is keep the part away from the home position so if it crashes I can continue without crashing the head during z home. I measure the height of what printed open the G-code and remove the layers before the layer with that Z height, then run G28 X Y to get away from the print. Then run G28 Z. But the T-Rex has a Bltouch and it goes to the middle of the bed to home the Z-axis. This is due to something called "Z safehoming is enabled". I don't want to change the T-Rex Marlin firmware. Is there a way to tell it when I am doctoring up the G-code to home the Z at at y = 5 mm x = 200 mm?
Don’t home the Z. Rather measure the height of your print to continue at with calipers. Or with detective work in your G-code preview, finding the layer your print stopped at and finding the Z height of that layer. The direction of the infill can be a clue. Then carefully lower your Z-axis until your nozzle is at the right height for your next layer (so get the nozzle .2 mm above your printed layer if you’re doing .2 mm layers).
Edit your print G-code to change G28, to be G28 X0 Y0, so that it only homes X and Y, not Z. Erase any line with G29 (auto-leveling routine), or it will crash into your print. After the G28 X0 Y0 line, enter G92 Z[your starting Z layer height in mm] that spoofs the Z position to the 3D printer, and it shouldn’t need to home. Then edit the rest of the G-code to start at the next layer of your resumed print.
Leave all the beginning commands that do setup, temperature, and erase the lines beginning with the movement, lots of G1 commands. Find the G1 Z[your resumed layer height] command and begin there, that’s the beginning of the layer. Make sure there’s an existing G92 E0 that resets the extruder distance, and the layer starts from a reset extruder position, you don’t want it to frantically dump a bunch of plastic on your print at the first extrude command (that’s one danger of resuming in in the middle of a layer).
Get everything heated up before you hit print, home the X and Y, stay in that position, and prime the nozzle. You can even hold something flat under the nozzle to keep it primed while you start the print, and have some tweezers handy to catch the goober on the hot end, so it doesn’t wipe it on your print. It helps to have a retract move when you begin, many slicers have a retract move when it advances to the next layer, you may want to start your G-code on that line if it’s before the line with the G1 Z [your layer height].
Thank you @ChinchillaWafers. Your answer saved a huge print on my Ender-3 V2.
My printer ran out of filament because the filament knob touched the led bar I attached to the top of the printer. After I cancelled the print, the printer still knew its current position so I was able to use 'Move Z-axis' to find the exact height I should start at.
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16189 | Trouble printing perpendicular walls
I'm trying to print the following model:
I'm using Simplify3d to print the model with the following settings on my Qidi X-pro:
Filament is ABS
Bed temp is 100 °C
Extruder temp is 230 °C
1 top layer
1 bottom layer
4 perimeter shells
The outside direction is 'outside in'.
Internal infill is triangular at 60 %.
I've tried numerous tweaks to the settings, but, I can't seem to get a perfect perpendicular exterior wall as seen in the photos. The print more resembles a trapezoid. It appears like the walls are bowing inward. This also seems to throw off the dimensions. They aren't consistent. For example, the height of the part is 6 mm, but, in measuring with a caliper it shows 5.8 mm to 6.2 mm.
Can anyone tell me how I can get my external walls perpendicular?
You may be getting shrinking due to cooling on the non-top and non-bottom layers. Sixty percent infill is rather substantial. I'm printing 20 hour pieces in ABS at 100 °C / 250 °C using ten percent infill and getting nothing like what your image shows.
Can you do with a lower infill? More isn't always stronger. Four perimeter shells may be a factor but you'll probably see a difference with a smaller percentage infill.
Thanks for the reply. I will be trying with a lower infill.
ABS shrinks about 1.5% as it cools from print temp to room temp. If your setup doesn't automatically account for this, you can scale up your STL 1.5% before slicing.
I also recommend more top layers - I usually use 4 for 50% infill or greater, and 6 or 8 for lower infill percentages.
Thanks. I've already adjusted for .08%. I'll take a look at bumping that up and adjusting the layers.
Already mentioned in an answer is that ABS has a relatively large percentage of shrinkage (about 1.5 %), this should be encountered for in your model. So, the top layers width being smaller than the model is perfectly explained by the shrinkage.
It is also this shrinkage that causes the excess width layers at the bottom in combination with the heated bed temperature. The bed is of relative high temperature, this is close to the glass temperature of the filament, this ensures that the plastic is soft and adheres well to the build plate. But, this high temperature also causes that the material doesn't shrink much (the cooler, the higher the shrinkgae), the further away from the bed the lower the temperature the higher the shrinkage. This causes each layer to be a little smaller than the previous layer. As the part progresses layers are build upon layers fixating the layers, so the material at the lower layers will not shrink back when the whole part is cooled down (it will probably cause for some compression stress in the lower region).
This defect is known as "elephant foot" as e.g. explained in this answer. Basically the bed temperature is too high (but the downside is that ABS needs a high temperature to prevent warping and loosening from the build plate), too less cooling (also not something you want when printing ABS as cooling causes warping and prevents layers to stick well to each other) or a too low distance between the nozzle and the build plate. You could try lowering heated bed temperature by 5 °C each print, print with a raft and increasing the nozzle to build plate distance (leveling with a thicker piece of paper or increase the nozzle by redefinition of the Z=0 plane).
This is a common issue for high shrinkage, high temperature materials. It is something to live with, try to balance out the problem or adjust the print object by changing the design to include a chamfer at the bottom of the print.
If your object doesn't need to be flexible and can tolerate a more brittle material, PLA has better dimensional accuracy. Thus, it would be easier to get your desired shape.
Try two perimeter shells, but slow down the print speed of the perimeter.
Actually, I've tried with PLA, and, the results are better, but, not perfect.
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16257 | G-code pin state turns off
I am currently working on a short G-code to turn a LED light while moving through a specified path and then turning it off while moving to the next path. So I used M42 but It seems to turn it and off even before the path has started. My code is the following:
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z20 F3000 ; lift
M42 P40 S0
; ----- HEADER -----
G1 F720 X112.33511 Y81.240995 Z258.23098 E0
M42 P40 S255
G4 P2000
G1 F720 X105.351433 Y81.240995 Z163.706453 E0
G1 F720 X183.876808 Y81.240995 Z122.186662 E0
G1 F720 X227.765593 Y81.240995 Z229.233326 E0
G1 F720 X244.826242 Y81.240995 Z133.513642 E0
M42 P40 S0
; ------ FOOTER -----
G28 X0 ; home X axis
Does anyone know something further about this command? May be there is some parameter so it waits untill it's set on or off?
is that repRap g-code or marlin g-code or klipper...
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16564 | Re-doing manual bed leveling
I have a Ender 5 Pro with a BLTouch auto bed leveler, running TH3D's version of Marlin: TH3D UFW 2.14. During my initial setup several months ago, I naively assumed that the BLTouch didn't need a manually leveled bed so I cranked the manual bed adjustment screws to be as compressed as possible. This has worked pretty well, until recent large prints have shown I need to adjust the back right of the bed as it's too low.
I adjusted all four of the the manual screws to be about halfway so I have room to play but when I run the Level Corners command, the first corner (front-left) is now way too high and the nozzle attempts to move several millimeters past where it should go (the plate moves up until it collides with the nozzle and then continues a few millimeters more...). I have tried poking every setting I can find but I cannot get the printer to reset what it thinks its z-offset should be.
Not sure what my next steps are as resetting bed leveling is not a common task from what I can tell.
It occurred to me that one could level the bed by physically moving the gantry and bed with the printer off. So I did that and a test print seems to be adhering to the bed much better than it ever has in the past. But before I answer my own question, I'd like to know if there's a better, don't-move-parts-yourself, way to do this adjustment.
Can you explain the "This has worked pretty well, until recent large prints have shown I need to adjust the back right of the bed as it's too low."? what's the difference between large prints and smaller prints? or do you mean that you were reaching the maximum printing volume and with the springs compressed you couldn't anymore (not sure why that would be)
@FarO Correct, I hadn't printed anything large enough that ran into the back right corner. Most of what I've been printing sits within a few centimeters of the center of the plate, so the problem wasn't as obvious until now (the print being 12cm square).
A BLTouch doesn't level the bed, it compensates for the geometry and adjusts print head movement, it is always required to tram (level) the bed with respect to the nozzle X-Y plane (of which the Z is perpendicular to this plane). If the build plate is skew, the bottom of the print will be skew, the top will be square with the head movement plane (the default compensation of the BLTouch is smeared out over the first 10 mm of the print, note this can be disabled or height changed).
To properly tram the bed, you need some room for the screws to go up and down. Home the X, home the Y and finally home Z. Then you jog the nozzle down (using a printer interfacing application over USB or the LCD from the printer itself, optionally you can use a console, the latter is very handy for sending G-code commands for the Z-offset determination later) to the bed to fit a sheet of A4 or Us Letter paper (alternatively, use feeler gauges) between the nozzle and the heated bed (pulling the paper should give you a little resistance), de-power the steppers and manually move the print head and bed to reach all corners and adjust the screws to have the nozzle at a paper distance of the bed. Note that if the nozzle will not reach to the bed, Z=0, you need to disable the Z endstop with M211 S0, don't forget to enable them after the Z-offset determination M211 S1. Do home the printer after each manual movement and screw adjustment as moving it manually may introduce some extra clearance of induced torque on the head. Doing this manually will prevent damaging the bed opposed to moving the head over the build surface using the LCD movement commands (scratching the surface). Manually, you will be able to stop when the nozzle hits the surface, if so adjust corner screw of the corner you are moving to. Repeat this sequence for each corner multiple times until the bed is parallel to the X-Y print head plane. Now you are ready to set Z-offset, which is found in this answer.
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16628 | How can I fill in the gap in this model without this tessellation/deformation occurring?
To start off my apologies if this question seems somewhat unclear. For context I am attaching the images of the model and the modified version in TinkerCAD. My issue is that I cannot fill in the gap on in the left arm of the gripper without these deformations happening.
What I would like to do is to fill in the gap and then make a hole that fits the servo motor head. At the moment the printed model loosely fits on top of the servo motor and when screwed in place does not have the range of motion I need.
I would be extremely grateful for any suggestions on how to fill in the gap without the problem occurring in TinkerCAD. I know I may not have tried the most sophisticated solution by just filling in the gap with another shape but I could not modify the model in any other way.
Imgur link seems broken. However, welcome to 3D Printing Stack Exchange. This seems like a good first question, though I'm not certain 3D CAD software is on topic here. You should take the [tour] and read through the [FAQ] to better understand how our site works.
Please always embed images instead of linking to external content, SE has their own imgur that retains the image as long as SE exists. I've updated the question for you. Embedding graphics will cause graphics and question to be together, saving the readers time so they can put more time in answering.
"Embedding graphics will cause graphics and question to be together, saving the readers time so they can put more time in answering." Not to mention preventing the question from showing a dead link if/when the hosting site deletes the image, goes down, etc. Likely not a problem with Imgur as such, but still a potential issue.
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16655 | Walls separating only on one side of print bed
Whenever I print, the walls separate when genial pressure is applied, this only happens to one side of the print, the side that faces the rear of the printer. I'm using 5 walls, so it’s only truly noticeable on the outer most walls, I’m sure it continues if I peel away more layers (the walls are printed first, then the infill). The print still looks “okay” so I only found out this issue after post-processing a prior print.
I’ve re-leveled the build plate and confirmed it with a bed visualizer.
I have attempted to shim that side of the print bed up.
I installed new belt tensioners to rule out belt tension.
I’m not sure what else to do, I rather not increase my flow or E-steps as the print dimensions are already pretty good and I don’t want to risk over extruding to solve my issue despite how it would fix the problem. I would be sacrificing accuracy for print coherency then.
I print on an Ender 5 plus
Slicer is Cura
Print speed is 60 mm/s
Printing at 220 °C for the hotend
Filament is Makerbot PLA
Does an external temperature measurement of the heater block verify it is within 10 °C of that indicated by the printer?
Yes I did , it’s within specs
Is there something causing that side to be cooler: a fan blowing on that side or the bed heating is uneven?
Well I “ upgraded “ the oem fan shroud with a ring one Instead, ideally hitting the print with air from all sides. I was having this problem with the oem fan shroud as well.
Try printing with cooling off to see if it's a cooling issue or something else.
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16640 | CoreXY mesh probing issue
I am trying to compensate for bed leveling by measuring a mesh with my Z probe, a BLTouch, and I am unable to do so.
I am using RepRap firmware version 3 and have a CoreXY printer. The first thing I do is home all axes, which works fine, and then choose G29 (run mesh compensation). The mesh compensation then begins to lower the bed and it eventually hits the Z limit switch and keeps going and the steppers begin grinding.
Don't know how the mesh compensation works but this is my config.g file. Does anyone know what may be the issue?
; Configuration file for Duet 3 (firmware version 3)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.2.3 on Wed Jun 23 2021 23:47:21 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
; General preferences
G90 ; send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"Duet 3" ; set printer name
M669 K1 ; select CoreXY mode
; Drives
M569 P0.0 S1 ; physical drive 0.0 goes forwards
M569 P0.1 S1 ; physical drive 0.1 goes forwards
M569 P0.2 S1 ; physical drive 0.2 goes forwards
M569 P1.1 S1 ; physical drive 1.1 goes forwards
M569 P1.2 S1 ; physical drive 1.2 goes forwards
M584 X0.0 Y0.1 Z0.2:0.3:0.4:0.5 E1.1:1.2 ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16:16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X40.00 Y40.00 Z400.00 E420.00:420.00 ; set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z60.00 E120.00:120.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z120.00 E1200.00:1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E250.00:250.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1500 Y1500 Z1500 E800:800 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout
; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima
M208 X635 Y540 Z500 S0 ; set axis maxima
; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P"!io4.in" ; configure active-low endstop for low end on X via pin !io1.in
M574 Y1 S1 P"!io5.in" ; configure active-low endstop for low end on Y via pin !io5.in
M574 Z2 S1 P"!io3.in" ; configure active-low endstop for low end on Z via pin !io3.in
; Z-Probe
M950 S0 C"io7.out" ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch
M558 P9 C"^io7.in" H7 F120 T6000 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
M558 H30 ;*** Remove this line after delta calibration has been done and new delta parameters have been saved
G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z2.5 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X15:215 Y15:195 S20 ; define mesh grid
; Heaters
M308 S0 P"temp1" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin temp1
M950 H0 C"out1" T0 ; create nozzle heater output on out1 and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit
M143 H0 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 280C
M308 S1 P"temp2" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp2
M950 H1 C"out2" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on out2 and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit
M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
; Fans
M950 F0 C"out7" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin out7 and set its frequency
M106 P0 S1 H-1 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off
M950 F1 C"out8" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin out8 and set its frequency
M106 P1 S1 H-1 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned off
; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
; Custom settings are not defined
; Miscellaneous
M575 P1 S1 B57600 ; enable support for PanelDue
```
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16667 | Making durable 3D printed drill templates?
I’m gearing up for making batch of 30 or so drilled aluminum enclosures (guitar pedals!), and getting the holes drilled accurately is a challenge. I’d like to make a 3D printed drilling template that fits over the box. The plastic alone is too soft to keep from getting deformed by repeated drilling. I’d seen these steel bushing inserts machinists use for their drilling templates. I’d love to use the kind with knurls or ridges so they press into the plastic and won’t get loose and spin.
The only problem is they seem to be unusually expensive- \$8 apiece at McMaster Carr.
The one other question here about these mentions “castable bushings” but are similarly rare and expensive.
Is there a less expensive part that would work well with plastic? Or a clever method for getting an accurate 3D printed drill template that would stand up to repeated use?
This would be used with a drill press and I would be happy with 0.125” (~3.2 mm) drill bits, or similar size, for pilot holes, and drill the holes to various final sizes as a second operation.
Use appropriate sized nuts?
@Ron, yeah, seems like most of the improvised solutions have threads, but there is only a little bit of material on the edges of the threads that the drill would contact. Brass heat set inserts, or the special flanged steel bushing with machine threads that pokes into a piece of wood.
What sort of drill sizes do you intend to use?
One thing that comes to mind would be printed threads which you screw heat breaks into. That's usually limited to ~4mm or ~6mm though.
Or maybe 3-4 normal spacers along the length of your tool which you'd insert from the side?
Are you using a hand-held drill or a drill press? If the latter, you could make a jig that the part fits against instead of having to guide the drill bit.
@towe that’s an interesting idea of screwing something in. Heartbreaks are too long and even the Chinese ones are ~$7. Screwing something in, especially if it had a collar to stop it would work. The drill press spins righty tighty so it wouldn’t unscrew it. Could tap the threads or make a pocket for a nut on the inside face.
@Andrew Morton, yes, drill press. I had previously done what you were talking about, by drilling a “master” with pilot holes, and then using a fixture to hold the box in place, and drill all of that one hole for all of the boxes, then move the fixture for the next hole, repeat. It did work but the opportunity for drift and messing up the same hole location over a batch of boxes made me nervous.
@towe I’d like to just drill pilot holes, 1/8” or 3mm, size not too specific, since it gets drilled out larger.
@ChinchillaWafers Would it be enough to use a plastic template and centrepunch the hole locations? I imagine a centrepunch wouldn't do the damage a drill bit would, but your experience may tell you otherwise.
@Andrew Morton re:center punch jig, that’s interesting. The longer the hole for the center punch the less it should deform. I guess the trick would be how tight you could get the punch in the hole without stressing the plastic, to keep the location tight.
This question is basically a hardware recommendation/shopping question, which is off-topic.
@ChinchillaWafers I realised that a transfer punch (with its cylindrical shape) would be a better fit than the typically conical shape of a normal centre punch.
@Andrew Morton transfer punch could be a good solution. It’d be an extra operation, but the template would be simpler and less labor to put together.
Found one source for small “doweling jigs”, the Telco 06120TK, on Amazon, $1.50 per bushing in packs of 10. Not the neat, press-in kind, they thread into a 1/2”-20 nut, but they are tempered steel.
They are a little thick and tall, which would make the template thick and tall, but the printed template could be cored out so it doesn’t have to be a solid, thick piece of printed plastic on top of the box. The threaded bit would make them reusable though.
The search was helped by putting in the ID you want (1/8” in this case), and getting into the woodworking category, rather than business/industrial.
Edit: Here's a design for 3D printed drill template with the doweling bushings. For the holes that were too close and interfered I'm going to try the suggestion of using pressed in 6-32 steel nuts, but drill them out.
EDIT #2:After drilling a test with the 3D printed drill template, results are underwhelming. The hole pattern is a little undersize, about 0.5%, which has made the holes on opposite sides of the drill template out of tolerance by about .015", not great for matching a PCB. I believe the issue is plastic shrink, which is expressed as a percentage, an error that ends up as a multiplication of size. So the 3D printed drill template, as shown, not reccommended for tight dimensional tolerances without experimenting dialing in the scale with the filament to be used.
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16669 | Movement of the extruder out of its original position during printing
I have a problem with my Creality Ender 3 printer. When I start printing, the first few levels go fine. But then the extruder starts slowly moving in the wrong direction and after a few minutes the extruder is completely out of its original position so the whole printing is ruined.
I tried to start again but it is doing the same thing all the time. Calibration and modification of the bed does not help. Can you advise me on how to fix this situation?
This sounds like you're describing layer shifts. Look through some questions on that topic and see if they match what you're seeing and if the answers might help solve your problem.
This issue is probably caused by layer shifting, please add some images (by [edit] you can embed your images using the insert image button) to see in which direction this takes place. A common problem is that the belts are not tight enough so that the driver pulley skips a few steps when an increased pressure/force is felt by the carriage (e.g. nozzle hitting supports, over extruded filament, etc.).
I found out that the problem is probably connected to layer shifting. More precisely the Z axis, which does not want to move upwards properly (it does move the upwards direction, but not reguarly, sometimes it stops) so that could be the core of the problem. I tried to fix it by making some steps that were discussed at this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8ttkf2/ender_3_z_axis_issues/ but so far, nothing seems to help.
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16672 | How to define bed dimensions in Marlin for custom carriage / hot end?
How would I begin measuring my hotend / carriage dimensions in Marlin to prevent my hotend from slamming into the frame?
I see in Marlin the 'define bed size' parameters
#define Y_BED_SIZE 360
#define Z_MAX_POS 400
#if ENABLED(E3DHemera)
#define X_BED_SIZE 352
#define X_MAX_POS 352
#else
#define X_BED_SIZE 360
#define X_MAX_POS 360
#endif
#define Y_MAX_POS 360
#define ClipClearance 25
But how would I go about measuring my hotend / carriage assembly to edit the values accordingly?
I'm not sure how I would measure it or at what point of reference I'm measuring from, is it from the nozzle to the edge of the hotend carriage in both the X and Y or total space on X and Y.
I'm using an Ender 5 plus.
I have a custom-made aluminum hot end carriage for my E3D Hemera.
I defined the BLTouch probe offset.
I'm using "Tiny Machines" firmware and my next step in the installation is defining the aforementioned parameters.
In the video tutorial, I'm watching for installation they are using a different mount for their E3D Hemera, so I'm unsure how I would go about defining my own values for my setup.
The guide I'm following is here
I also moved one of my end stops closer to the carriage because my original endstop would trigger on the wheels, but now that I installed the new carriage, it hits the frame before triggering the endstop, is there an endstop offset value I can adjust for what I think is my Y-axis?
(The axis going from left to right)
TL&DR
Using a larger carriage will, if too large, diminish the printing area.
To determine the correct values (for the X-axis) you:
First need to assure that the nozzle can reach the origin, if not, try to see if you can move the endstop without the carriage hitting the frame, if not possible, your left margin will be decreased. If there was enough space for the carriage, and a value for X_MIN_POS defined, this value needs to be decreased. See How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset) to set these margins correctly as you effectively need to reposition the print area on the build area.
Second, define the bed dimensions temporarily to be the design size (do note to not bluntly jog the carriage to the end positions!).
Now flash the firmware and home the X-axis, jog the carriage in increments to the right and observe the position on the LCD or through a connected application over USB. When the carriage is about to hit the frame, note the value, this is your bed X size (for a CoreXY make sure the carriage is clear over the whole Y-axis).
Something similar can be done for the Y-axis.
When you have noted the maximum sizes in X and Y direction, change the firmware and re-flash the printer board.
More details
The text below goes a little more in depth, first some definitions, then some theory.
Definitions
Axes
In reaction to:
The axis going from left to right
When facing your printer the left to right movement is your X-axis, back and forth the Y-axis and up and down the Z-axis.
-> Please note this is generally the most used printer convention, exceptions are applicable.
Dimensions
Hotend dimensions are needed for your slicer (when you need to sequentially print multiple objects), firmware uses bed dimensions and positions.
Bed dimensions
The following image reflects the changes to the build area when a larger sized carriage is used on the same printer (grey is the original size, red is the decreased area as a result of a larger carriage; note this is for fixed endstop positions!). Note, this is an example, CoreXY machines have limited space, so a decreased print area is more likely to be seen in both X and Y dimension. Prusa i3 style printers have the Y endstop generally on the bed carriage, so the bed size in Y will most likely not decrease. It totally depends on the construction of the printer, the extra space between the frame parts and the carriage (usually you can see that instantly by the endstop offsets, if there aren't homing endstop offsets, there is not extra space and the print dimension of that axis will decrease) or the ability to move the offset. Note that the bottom half of the image draws the out the result for losing X movement, the red area does account for losing Y movement as well, this is not uncommon for CoreXY, especially the printers with limited extra space for the carriage beyond the minimum and maximum bed positions.
How does this translate to your situation?
From Tiny Machines (TM) firmware (InsanityAutomation) you'll find that:
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
This tells you that there is no offset from the homing endstop.
#if ENABLED(E3DHemera)
#define X_BED_SIZE 352
#define X_MAX_POS 352
#else
This tells you that there is less printing space in the X direction available.
From Marlin configurations (2.0.9.1), you can find something similar. It looks like somebody did a similar attempt, but added the offset to the X_MIN_POS and mixed up the signs (it does hint to a 8 mm offset, so the creator probably also has a e3D Hemera extruder).
From the TM constants we read that the endstops in fact define the origin of the printer to be at the endstops (the MIN values are zero) so the printer is at the origin when homed. Because of the larger extruder, already 8 mm of the X dimension is used, hence the smaller bed size of 306 - 8 = 352 mm. This is also the X_MAX_POS, the carriage is not allowed further. You should now look into your custom mount and the endstop location and deduce your own "x mm" offset.
But what about the opposite side? I only have 2 endstops , one for x and one for y. And sure , thank you.
From the display you read what the maximum is so the opposite site is taken care off, no need to worry.
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16480 | Does a sturdy table really matter?
There seems to be general consensus that, among other things, a sturdy table is important for print quality.
Within reason, I don't understand why a wobbly table would be bad. Has anyone done a controlled study/investigation on how wobbliness affects print quality?
Ringing artifacts seem to be what people think platform sturdiness helps with. But the frequencies of these artifacts seem to be broadly in the range of 40-100 Hz. The resonance of a cheap fold-out table is seems much lower than that - perhaps 10 Hz or less. And intuitively, it seems that a 10 Hz resonance would have to be very energetic to significantly affect the motion of the extruder.
YouTube links, written studies, or personal experience welcome!
I think your answer could be found here
Purely anecdotal, but my printer is on a not-so-sturdy table and I've never noticed any problems.
Printers usually leave a wavy pattern after turning a right-angle corner. A flimsy table will make this worse, causing its own pattern. A flimsy table will cause you to run slower speeds to compensate.
A clear answer is not available, since no one performed a proper test as of June 2021.
The closest answer I can provide is that damping feet result in a change of vibration behaviour, as discussed in this Klipper issue report. How it's not clear.
I paste some of the findings:
I took several measurements with different configurations and the
results are quite surprising IMO. The following graphs show the
respective vibration results for (from left to right):
1- The retrofit back to the standard hard rubber feet
2- The printer
only standing on the "feet clamps" as shown in the picture above
3-
The printer standing on the "feet clamps" but with squash balls
inserted
X-Axis
Configuration 2 vs 3:
The damping is causing an additional spike at ~76 Hz;
Power-Spectral-Density is roughly the same;
Overall vibration is a bit lower in the damped version (11.4 % vs 16% @ 3hump_ei) --> Probably due to damping the additional spike;
A bit surprisingly the shaper recommendation is identical
Configuration 1 (original feet) drives Power-Spectral-Density from e3
range to e4 range
Configuration 1 brought back a dominant spike at
around 75 Hz to 80 Hz (which was surprisingly gone with the printer
sitting on the hard and small area of the "feet clamps"
Configuration
1 nearly tripled the spike at 75 Hz to 80 Hz compared to No. 3
(Power-Spectral-Density 12,000 vs 4,200) The spike at around 30 Hz
stayed pretty much the same
Y-Axis
The effect on the Y-axis is pretty small
My conclusions
The resonance effects very much depend on the type of feet
For
whatever reason every damping in the feet resulted in worse vibration
If you want to know more about it, install Klipper and an ADXL345 accelerometer, make measurements, write a blog post or post here in a new answer.
I may be able to do it within within the year. It's a loose deadline, yes.
I have a printer on a wobbly table, but I haven't performed measurements yet.
I expect it to be better than a stiff table, since part of the energy is dissipated by the table and not by the printer frame (we are not talking about independent feet, but table as a whole), resulting in better quality at high acceleration. Of course if your printer runs at 500-1500 mm/s^2 you won't see anything. If you run at 5000+ mm/s^2, then...
Nice findings you found, it confirms the answer I posted on Fix ghosting problem (damping versus bolting printer to a desk).
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16499 | "Unable to read TMC UART 'extruder' register IFCNT" - Klipper and Robin Nano
I'm trying to use software UART for TMC2209 steppers on a BigTreeTech v1.2 and apply that to my Robin Nano v.1.1 using Klipper firmware.
I declared a different pin for every driver and I edit my printer.cfg in this way:
[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PA10
run_current: 0.75
hold_current: 0.4
stealthchop_threshold: 9999
interpolate: true
[tmc2209 stepper_y]
uart_pin: PA9
run_current: 0.75
hold_current: 0.4
stealthchop_threshold: 9999
interpolate: true
[tmc2209 stepper_z]
uart_pin: PC7
run_current: 0.75
hold_current: 0.4
stealthchop_threshold: 1
interpolate: true
[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: PC13
run_current: 0.3
stealthchop_threshold: 1
interpolate: true
I watched this video
But I have this error:
Unable to read TMC UART 'extruder' register IFCNT
Why is this happening?
That means that the pins are not correct or that a connection is missing. Some TMC stepper boards require soldering to connect UART from the chip to one of the two pins shown in the enlargement. Have you done it?
@FarO That sounds like the beginning of an answer? Please write an answer if you're sure about this. Indeed this message tells that the pins aren't connected correctly, and for 2208's I'm sure this can be a soldering issue, is that also applicable to 2209's? Please elaborate in your answer.
I had the same issue. In general, that means that the pins you specified doesn't work.
"I declared a different pin for every driver": you don't need just "different pins", you need the CORRECT pins. Check if you specified the correct ones: below the SKR the pins are labelled.
And then check that the TMC module has the UART pin(s) (there are two) are connected to the chip! the TMC modules often are sold with three empty pads on the lower side of the PCB. The central one goes to the chip, then each other pad goes to one pin. You need to bridge with solder the central one and the pad for the pin you want to use.
In the following image you can (barely) see that the central pad near the red line is bridged with the upper one.
Also, for the extruder the stealthchop threshold should be 0, not 1! you don't want stealthchop for the extruder.
yes i solved....the correct pin for extruder is PA8 on robin nano v1.1
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16416 | My Anet E12 USB keep disconect but still able to print from SD
The problem with my Anet E12 should be on USB connection itself.
If powered down, the board still gets power from USB
If board is resett, USB will still connect
Still works on SD; seem like most part not damage.
What cause the problem? Where to check first? How to fix it?
Note: This printer worked with no problem before.
Ok I found the problem. these shameful for me but I decide to share it anyway.
I live in apartment that didn't have earth ground in receptacle. Small electrical shock reallly bother me. althought it also destroy some sensitive component mosfet. (current flow through capacitor in switch mode power supply) Then one day I decide to get rid of these. I hammer ground rod and wire it to some receptacle. these when the whole problem start.
The print shockme many time so I decide to give it a ground but I have no problem with PC so.. I don't give ground to PC.
When these thing connected seem like there are some ground potential diffence. that current flow via ground (shield of USB cable) make PC uncomfartable and disconnect usb device.
luckily pc not broken. I give ground to both device and evrything work fine in harmony again.
Sounds like a power saver issue. Make sure things like your USB ports, hard drive, or anything you need the printer program to access doesn't turn off in power save.
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16439 | Weedo Tina2/Monoprice Cadet auto bed leveling: Sensor not moving down to touch the print bed
So I bought this printer three days ago as a way to dip my toes into the 3D printing world, and it was working great at first. But at some point, the ABL procedure started behaving oddly: Instead of moving down to touch each corner of the printing bed, it's now only doing so for one corner, then moving to the next, but instead of going down, it goes up. It then continues to the third corner, stops, and moves up again. After that, it returns back to home position. The result is that the extruder hovers way above where it's supposed to be --or alternatively bumps into the printing bed when it's near the origin corner-- thinking it's adjusting for some nonexistent slant, dripping filament all over the place.
The gantry itself is totally level, and I can't see any mechanical faults. As far as I can tell, there's no way to manually level the bed, the only option is to use ABL.
I found out that the Monoprice Cadet printer is the exact same one as the Tina2, so if anyone has experience with that printer in particular, it'll apply here too.
This question is attracting a lot of "Me too" answers lately (apparently becomming a common issue), enough for the community bot to automatically protect the question from low rep. users to answer the question. If you (@stale_mud)) have found an answer by now, please add this yourself, if impossible to answer yourself as in prohibited by the protection, please reply to this comment using my name with an @ in front, I can unprotect the question.
This is a community wiki answer from an answer on Reddit - Monoprice Cadet auto-leveling question, for those who stumble upon this question:
Then I tried their text chat support and the response was basically:
"It is a bad level sensor, which we've never heard of happening to a 3 month old printer and is very rare in general. You are under warranty so here's a preprinted return shipping label, and we'll send you a new printer once we receive your busted one."
From the many "me too" answers, this appears to be a genuine issue rather than a "one-off" issue...
According to the manufacturer's page for the Weedo Tina 2, the bed sensor for the ABL is magnetic -- which means that if you've removed the magnetic build surface you likely have removed the printer's ability to sense the bed height. You most likely need to replace the worn out magnetic build surface for the (mandatory) ABL to work.
Weedo ought to sell replacements for a part that wears out, but if not, you can buy one made for the Ender 3 (and cut it down to fit) on Amazon (very reasonably priced, too) and have it in your hands in a couple days, though I have no way to know the original didn't have specific poles in particular locations on the sheet. You'll likely need to remove the base sheet from the Tina 2, if there is one, so as to follow the instructions on the Creality and ensure the upper, removable, flexible sheet actually sticks to the adhesive-backed lower sheet.
The magnetic build surface is still there: I only removed the adhesive paper on top of it, and the magnetic surface itself is fine, it's only three days old as well.
For the magnetic build surface I'm familiar with (on my Ender 3) the texture layer isn't separable from the upper of the two magnetic sheets, and I don't know that I could print on it without the textured surface, anyway.
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16369 | Creality CP-01 3-in-1 printer firmware reset
I bought a Creality CP-01 3-in-1 printer, all working well, until I had an email saying there's an update for your 3D printer.
I downloaded and installed the firmware... and that's when things went bad, the printer head thinks that the front left of the plate is the center so it can't print anything.
I've tried Creality and they say that the update was not for my printer (why then did I get the email ?) only the original firmware is for my printer and you can get it from their website.
I must admit that I'm a bit stupid (no sorry a lot stupid) when it comes to 3D printers, and that is the problem, the firmware update was a file you installed on the printer and job done even though it's wrong.
I've downloaded the files needed but they are not in the right format and everything I try doesn't work.
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16378 | Creality 10S 3D fan speed settings and bed temperature
What fan speed should I use with PLA? Do I need to manually set the fan speed in ‘Control’?
Also, on the filament cartridge Bed Temp is listed: "No heat/60-80 °C". Does this mean heating the bed is optional?
What slicer are you using? Cura 4.9 that I use at home handles fans automatically, do you have reason to believe the defaults are wrong? What brand/color/type PLA do you have?
What fan speed should I use with PLA
The answer is that it depends on the hotend temperature the area of the printed layer and the effectivity of the fan. It is best to print some test prints to find the optimum for your printer. E.g. prints with overhangs/slanted object are good tests for this. Normally a Benchy is not a calibration object, but the bow of the Benchy is an example; incorrect temperature (too hot) and too few cooling will result in the bow sagging out.
Do I need to manually set the fan speed in ‘Control’?
No, the slicer can schedule the cooling speed percentage for you.
Does this mean heating the bed is optional?
Yes, PLA doesn't shrink much, so it doesn't necessarily need to be heated up to the glass transition temperature (temperature at which the filament becomes soft) of the plastic. It does require to take extra measures to get it to stick to the bed surface. You also don't want the bed temperature to be too high, this will manifest in poor first few layers quality, similar to elephant feet phenomenon.
"No heat/60-80 °C".
I'd not take it further then 60 °C, if higher, the PLA will become really soft and may cause printing problems known as "elephants feet".
Bed heating is not required when printing in PLA. But if it is an option and you would like to heat the bed, I would not go above 70/80 °C for PLA.
As far as fan speed, I would go 90-100 % especially if the bed is heated.
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16340 | Is there lead in brass 3D printer nozzles?
I was just wondering whether or not there is lead in brass 3D printer nozzles as I read that they do add lead when making brass to improve reliabilty or something along those lines?
I was curious as to whether the same reason applies to 3D printer nozzles and if it is enough to warrant buying a steel nozzle instead?
It would probably depend on the individual manufacturer as to the amount of lead in the nozzle. IIRC, Steel nozzles are implemented whenever you have a material that requires a higher temperature that is too much for brass.
Lead is added to brass to improve its machinability. (Arsenic is added to improve corrosion-resistance.) I imagine that the factories making the nozzles would opt for easier machinabilty, but you could buy lead-free brass and pay a small machine shop to make you some nozzles.
@Andrew Morton Would it be enough to cause any significant damage if ingested, say after swapping out the nozzle and then eating?
@JamesM I'm not qualified to answer that, but you should always wash your hands after using machinery anyway. And before preparing food/eating. I don't know what's in the grease on the printer and you might not notice that some had got onto your fingers, so there's that to consider too.
Amalgam, a silver-mercury alloy is generally a safe filling for teeth unless it is exposed to some chemicals or cut into. The Removal of them uses heat, which breaks the alloy down and creates mercury vapor. However, as long as it is handled properly, the material doesn't add mercury to the body from contact alone.
It should be noted that there also exist several lead-containing alloys of free-machining steel so going with wear resistant non-brass nozzles does not preclude the presence of small amounts of lead. All the reasons for choosing free-machining brass for the manufacture of nozzles apply even more so for making steel nozzles. Drilling tiny holes in steel is a more challenging machining operation than doing so in brass.
It's very likely that leaded brass is used in the manufacture of nozzles for 3D printers -- as noted by @AndrewMorton, this is done to improve machinability (the same is true of some steels, by the way) -- and when you're going to have to drill a hole potentially as small as 0.1 mm diameter, you want all the machinability you can get (I can say from experience that brass without the lead is very annoying to machine and likely to produce unacceptably high rates of broken tools and destroyed parts during that drilling operation).
That said, the amount of lead found in a single nozzle is very small, generally between 1.5% and 2.5% by mass -- a typical nozzle is only a few grams, so the lead content would be a few tens of milligrams. Further, ingested lead (as metal) is not a major toxicity issue, because stomach acid reacts to form insoluble lead chloride, which then passes through the gut almost unchanged (some lead will still be absorbed, but swallowing a whole lead bullet raises bodily lead loading less than breathing in a shooting range for an hour or two each week for a year, where lead compounds float in the air as smoke, both from primers and from unjacketed lead bullets).
If you, a child, or a pet ingested a used nozzle (say, you dropped it and couldn't find it and worry about your dog), it would be more likely to do harm by abrading the intestinal lining as it passes than by the toxicity of the tiny amount of lead in the metal. If this is a "today or yesterday" event, you should promptly consult an appropriate health care professional (physician, pediatrician, or veterinarian), who will likely want to take x-rays or CT scans to ensure the item passes through the gut rather than lodging somewhere along the way, as well as monitoring for symptoms of a complication (a perforated intestine is life-threatening, but relatively easy to repair if caught promptly; the surgery needed is similar to an appendectomy).
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16395 | CR-10 Max slight shock when touching heat bed or frams
I just got my new CR-10 Max and got it assembled. I turned it on, was auto-leveling it, and I received a slight shock from the leveling bed and the frame. Is this a grounding issue? I haven't even printed anything yet and this happens. Anyone have any tips or heard this happening before? I've sent 3 emails to Creality already and gotten no response.
It's probably a harmless thing related to the noise filtering in the power supply. You can fix the issue by grounding the printer. It's been discussed before on this site.
If the above link doesn't help, are you sure its not your bodies ESD to ground.
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12053 | Ender 3Pro Calibration problem
I have a new Ender 3 Pro. I set it up and everything seems to work. I configured as such that the nozzle is only a sheet of paper apart from the bed. When I go to print, the extruder raises 2-3 mm and starts printing, which doesn't stick to the bed and all I get is a mess. Bed is set to 60 °C and hotend to 210 °C.
mind showing a photo and telling us what slicer you use?
Hi Howard, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! What is your start G-code? Or, put a link to PasteBin to your G-code file so we can help you. Unfortunately, your question does not have enough information to help you now. My best guess is that your start G-code is incorrect.
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12056 | Bottom Layer Compression (over extrusion) - Can't get rid of it
I've been trying to find a solution to a problem I've been having recently whereby the bottom layers of my print (1.2 mm; 12 layers) are either being compressed. over extruded or both. The problem results in the nozzle being dragged through previously extruded filament leaving deep groove marks and the bottom layers being risen/wavy, thus causing (I believe) the print layers to expand horizontally outwards
Settings are:
Anycubic Chiron
0.1 mm layer height
200 °C hotends temperature
55 °C bed temperature
40 mm/s print speed
eSun black 1.75 mm PLA
Cura 4.4.1
It's less noticeable on less intrinsic prints but for my latest project, its becoming a real issue. The problem is that for the square holes for the buttons (of which there are a lot), the bottom layers are extruding (essentially elephants foot-ing) which is impacting the tolerances of the build (holes should be 13 mm to accept 12.5 mm square buttons but are coming out at ~12.7 mm only on the bottom layer, I've measured the walls of the square holes and they're coming out perfectly).
I've tried almost everything I can think of/find on Google:
Levelling the bed (multiple times)
Tried print temps from 190 °C to 210 °C (even printed a temp tower which confirmed printing at ~200 °C is correct for my filament (eSun black PLA)
Calibrated the extruder
Calibrated the Z-axis
Set different horizontal expansion settings in Cura
Reduced entire print flow rates (have tried 90 %, 85 % and 80 %); this somewhat worked but produced problems elsewhere in the print due to lack of material (skin overlap etc.)
Used the 'modify settings for overlap' mesh setting to reduce infill flow & inner wall flow to 45 % and 55 % respectively for the bottom layers (up to 1.2 mm).
The last point in that list is where I've had the most success but it does leave a slight indentation around the outer wall until the full flow rate kicks in (i.e. >1.2 mm) and I'm thinking there may be other things at play that are causing the issue and I shouldn't have to do this reduce bottom layer flow so much if at all.
Has anyone seen this before?
Have you been able to confirm with a caliper that the 12 layers are actually 1.2 mm high? Maybe you have a mechanical problem with Z axis.
I haven’t done that yet but I printed and measured another test cube after calibrating the z axis and it was perfect (or near enough); 20.04
So I managed to figure it out and it turns out the vertical guide screws had a lot of grease/oil build up near the bottom which was impeding the X axis motor from properly moving the nozzle vertically when instructed.
After removing both guide rods and cleaning with degreasing fluid, the troublesome problem is no more!
I had the same problem with bottom 8-10 layers being squashed. Tried all the possible settings and nothing helped.
Eventually found that the bottom part of the Z-axis guide rails was narrower then the top and it was not rolling properly down the bottom.
Found out by taking off the Z-axis rod and moved extruder up and down and I felt it was moving a lot worse/getting almost stuck down the bottom. Also tried it by disabling steppers and rolled the Z-axis motor by finger, almost no effort at the top to roll it down, but took a lot more effort down the bottom 5 cm or so.
I loosened the screws and pulled the bottom part wider and problem solved... Probably a rookie mistake as it is my first printer....
Hope it helps someone saving days of experimenting.
Not sure which printer you have, but I have the Ender 3 pro and one of the first recommended mods was to make a spacer to sit between the z-axis motor and the frame because it is often at an incorrect angle as you describe. Adding that spacer makes the whole thing run much more consistently
The first thing that comes to mind is that, even though you have levelled the bed, the print nozzle may be too close causing too much "squish" on the first layer. Squish isn't bad as it promotes adhesion, but in your case, as you are looking for finer tolerances on the holes, it may be a problem. I use a feeler gauge and aim for 0.15 mm gap when printing at 0.2 mm layer height.
Next thing to consider is ensuring you have calibrated your flow rate/extrusion multiplier. See here for detailed procedure
Assuming flow rate is calibrated I can think of some settings in Cura that could affect your print.
Initial Layer Flow
Flow Rate Compensation Factor
Combing Mode / Avoid Printed Parts
Initial Layer Flow enable the use of a higher/lower flow rate in you first layer. Typically I set this to a value larger that my flow rate, 120 %, as I want good adhesion and am less worried about the elephant's foot effect. However, you could reduce it to less than your flow rate although that may compromise adhesion unless you use a brim.
Flow Rate Compensation Factor For most circumstances this should be 100 % which indicates that your flow rate should be used as set and not compensated for. I would check that this value has not been altered cause over-extrusion.
Lastly, there are two travel settings. Combing Mode and Avoid Printed Parts work in combination to reducing the impact of travels in the finished print. I would ensure you have combing turned on (e.g. Not in Skin) and that you have enabled Avoid Printed Parts. More details on these settings can be found here
I had similar issues during the past few days. My first 3~5 layers overlapped. I ended up with figuring out it was the screws to mount Z stepper became loose and the stepper shifted itself downwards instead shifting up the nozzle for the first several layers, until the stepper had nowhere to go.
I have had a similar problem after years of clean printing and spent ages messing with it until I read this article and cleaned my lead screws on the Z-axis - a quick hit with a brush seems to have fixed it - fingers crossed.
Problem: my layers looked over extruded in random areas inside models and by the time I hit the top layer, I got some pretty serious results with blobs big enough to change the detail and fill in large gaps with ooze.
I tried the following:
Tweaked my Cura settings for ages in case I had retraction set wrong, wiped back to factory defaults, regressed to earlier versions of Cura - no luck,
Replaced my hot end assembly pretty much three times over, no luck except to clog a few brand new hot ends lol
Used different filaments, dried filaments including new ones in the oven for a day, no luck. Probably wasted a couple of rolls of PLA persisting with trying to get a job completed through the problem.
Cleaned the lead screw. It may have improved it somewhat but is difficult to tell as it is somewhat random.
UPDATE: The problem is not fixed, unfortunately. I will try a more detailed clean of the lead screws tomorrow, but I ran a 100 mm clean Z-axis raising test and noted it was pretty close to the mark, but interestingly it was about 99 mm on the left side and 101 mm on the right, although I doubt this could fully account for the problem I am having from about 2 mm up the axis unless the z height loss occurs in one concentrated section right near the bottom. The printer previously printed well and has not been damaged in any physical way that I am aware of. I will consider if there is any degradation in the functionality of the stepper motor by swapping them if more cleanup doesn't help. Keen for any other ideas if you have any.
Welcome to 3D Printing SE and thank you for your contribution. When you get a chance, please take the [tour] to understand how the site works and how it is different than others.
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12057 | How to unload filament as cleanly as possible using the extruder motor?
I usually unload filament using the extruder motor, with the nozzle around 30 °C below the filament's print temperature. Despite this, often a significant amount of filament is left in the nozzle, and the filament comes out with a long stringy tip.
Does this suggest that the procedure might be leaving deposits of melted filament outside of the melt zone (potentially leading to blockages)? and if so,
What sequence of temperature/movement controls would be most likely to remove or mitigate the risk of deposits?
I am familiar with the “cold pull” technique, but I am looking for the best strategy for a solution using the printer's controls.
I usually extrude a quantity of cleaning filament when changing filaments, though I'm not sure whether this would also clean any deposits outside the melt zone.
I have seen a procedure called “cooling moves” in the Prusa Slicer code. I understand this is intended to produce a cleaner filament tip upon unloading in a multi-material scenario, and I wonder whether a similar strategy should be employed for regular unloading, although I am unable to tell from the code what exactly is happening.
I am using a genuine E3D V6 hotend and a Bondtech BMG Extruder.
Why do you reduce the temperature to remove the filament? I've always removed filament at printing temps with no problems. I get a small bulb and a thin string which represents usually the nozzle material.
I don't know if what I do is the best (or correct) way to do it, but I always just heat the nozzle up to the right temperature. Then, I extrude some filament and quickly pull the filament out. I have not had any problems with this technique at all.
@RosalieW By hand or using the extruder stepper? The OP is seeking for a non-manual solution.
I do it by hand. But, using the extruder stepper would for sure also work. You just have to make sure you pull out the filament quick enough. Otherwise, some filament might stay stuck in the nozzle and cause problems later on.
There's a bit of a compromise here:
Filament cohesion in the nozzle isn't strong enough to remove all residue at higher temperature
Extruder motors can't get sufficient grip / don't have sufficient torque for filament extraction at lower temperatures
That means you'll always have to purge some of the old filament when changing to a new filament.
To easily remove the old filament, you'd want to fill the nozzle, so that there's no large plug of filament that might get stuck in the Bowden tube (as suggested in a comment by Rosalie W), then pull the old filament out; and then purge the nozzle after inserting the new filament.
How much you'll need to purge depends a bit on the filament and its color, but I'd guess 50 mm should be sufficient in most cases.
As G-code, this might look something like that:
;Unloading
G91 ;relative movement
G1 E5 F300 ;fill nozzle
G1 E-300 F3000 ;unload filament, 300 = Bowden length + hotend length
G90 ;absolute movement
;Loading
G91 ;relative movement
G1 E295 F3000 ;load filament
G1 E55 F200 ; purge filament
G90 ;absolute movement
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12060 | Per-Model Bed Adhesion in Simplify3D
I'm looking for a way to have different bed adhesion for different models in the same print. My question is similar to this question, but I'm using Simplify3D.
I have an STL file that contains many different parts, and most of it prints fine except for a few small pieces which end up not sticking to the bed. I'd like to add bed adhesion for just the small parts while leaving the rest of the parts alone.
I started by splitting the STL file into smaller pieces with "Separate Connected Surfaces" then proceeded to make two separate print profiles, the first one for the majority of the parts with "Use Skirt/Brim" set to defaults (Skirt Layers 2, Skirt Offset from Part 4.00 mm, Skirt Outlines 2) and the second one for just the small parts with "Use Skirt/Brim" set to create adhesion (Skirt Layers 2, Skirt Offset from Part 0.00 mm, and Skirt Outlines 10).
I've then set the two processes to use their respective parts. When I go to print just the small parts alone I'm able to see the bed adhesion:
But if I attempt to print with all of the parts in the same print, the bed adhesion seems to drop down from 10 outlines to just 2 outlines but is still hugging the smaller parts. So it's like it took part of the settings ("Skirt Outlines") from one process and another part of the settings ("Skirt Offset from Part") from the other process to generate the final print.
What I'm looking for is how to have separate build adhesion for separate parts in the same print.
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12062 | Can this part be 3D printed?
I have an old air conditioner and most of the vent flaps/louvres are missing. I've modelled it in Solidworks, but can it be printed? Are the tips too small for 3D printers? It's about 14 cm long end-to-end.
Here's the drawing sheet (dimensions are in mm):
What 3d printer do you have? What is the smallest sizes? What filament are you using?
@marcellothearcane I'll be taking it in my local library and they've got a UPBox using ABS. I've just added the drawing sheet in the OP.
Hi @JohnM. Almost anything can be printed with enough support material. Are you asking for a design review and an analysis of the best printing plan? It really isn't possible to answer this question in a way that would be helpful without more information about your goals and constraints.
Dimension-wise it's probably ok.
If you want to print it as a single piece it would be quite challenging because of the cylinders, overhangs and bridges present in multiple directions: overhangs and bridges result in lower quality and precision, while cylinders can be printed nicely only when their axis is vertical.
However I see that you could easily split the component into multiple parts, each one of which could be printed optimally.
You can glue the different parts together and you are done, see What glues for PLA? and What glues to use for PETG?
This could be printed with minimal supports if printed standing slightly canted by around 30° on the right side in the picture.
Interesting. I'll split the part into 3. I suppose the cylinders should face up when printing?
Into 3 parts? Why not split it in half then you get 2 half Louvre doors of about 2.5 mm thick which you can glue together. ABS might be challenging to print it upright or slanted under 30 degrees. PLA/PETG is less prone to warping, I would prefer that over ABS.
Printing in two parts seems a good solution to me
Printing it cut in 2 parts upright also allows to directly access the internal area through the "center" cut, and insert a stiffening piece of metal along the whole length.
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12070 | Any experience with nylon drying on heated build platform and printing on paper?
A while a go I thought that I could try printing in Nylon on my Wanhao Duplicator i3 with full metal hotend. Boy, was I wrong: The filament was not dry and popped like foam. The platform (Buildtak) was not sticking at all (at any temperature), I had the cooling fan at 100 %, so the bits that stuck to the platform warped like the Enterprise.
I learned that a filament dryer, an enclosure, Gaolite and PVA glue will be my friends, but I am determined to not spend a lot of money to printing something that I don't need often. (PLA works fine for me)
I am now at the point that I dry my filament by leaving a roll of nylon on the heated buildplatform at 90 °C. It stopped popping and hissing, so I guess that works. I learned that nylon sticks to cellulose, so without needing to recalibrate I can tape a piece of printer paper to the build platform and it sticks like crazy! Extra bonus is that if it warps, the paper curls up slightly and keeps the print from falling off. I have only printed a single test piece until now, so I can't really say if it's to be recommended.
Has anybody used these methods (drying nylon on heated build surface and printing nylon on paper) too and have you found any downsides?
To make this a worthy stackoverflow question: "Can I dry nylon on my heated build platform and print nylon on paper?"
This question would probably be a better fit for this site if you factored it as a "how to...?" question part followed by a self-answer, and also considered other answers before accepting your own.
The two topics (drying and adhesion) are quite different. They belong to different questions.
Heating spools on the bed can be an option, but it seems inefficient to me: you lose a lot of heat and an oven would save quite some energy. Also, I wonder whether the open air will reduce the effectiveness even more, since the outer parts and the top of the spool will be colder.
also, the bed would heat it unevenly, while the oven evens out the temperature better
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12071 | Big cracks on the Layer view in the Preview mode of Cura
I designed a part on Fusion 360 that looks like this:
The part is very small, about 20 mm for 10 mm. I'm then importing it to Cura and I notice they are huge cracks on the part when simulating/previewing the print, I'm using a Monoprice mini printer, 100 % infill, and 0.0437 mm.:
This is my first-time 3D printing something, so maybe (most probably) I did something wrong.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE I think is the resolution of the profile, please look at the top right corner of the last image
Consider upping the triangle (polygon) count by decreasing the mesh size in the original item prior to exporting. That kind of mess should not show up even in parts far smaller than this.
You have coasting turned on. Cura shows the coasting locations (where extrusion is switched off) as gaps. The actual print may be fine.
That's likely the case, but it's not ok. Coasting will seriously mess up your prints. It's a really dubious feature that's a poor substitute for other measures (correct retraction settings, and linear advance in firmware if you'll be mixing print speeds or have high speeds relative to acceleration limits).
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12095 | How can I solve the problem of line distortions on my prints?
Hello guys I have a little problem with printing. Whenever I print something there are always these lines my printer does, it's not a very big deal, but it looks rather ugly and I'd really appreciate it if anyone could help me if you know what the problem is. I post also a picture to show you the problem clearer. From what I see (observing how my printer prints), I noticed that it starts printing at one point and then when it arrives again after a circle to the starting point to print the layer above, it stops just a millisecond (instead of keep moving smoothly) and I think that's how the problem is created. I'm pretty sure its not the printer's problem, but probably the G-code or the filament... I don't know for sure.
Here some details:
Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Slicer: Cura
Filament: PM filament, PLA, 1 kg, 1.75 mm
That's a pretty common (and unfortunately somewhat normal) problem - called "Z seam"
Have you seen any improvement when using "random" for layer change positioning?
@Davo: In my experience, "random" just makes warts all over the place rather than all in one place where you could sand them off.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE then I suggest your advance/retract settings are not high enough.
@Davo: I mean without fixing the fundamental cause of the warts. If you get rid of them and there's only a very subtle seam left then yes random might look better.
As towe noted in a comment, that's Z seam. The mechanism by which it happens is mostly the same as bulging corners. The print head is moving considerably slower just before and just after the layer change, decelerating to a stop then accelerating back up to speed in order to perform the slow Z-axis move, but the rate of extrusion, which is dependent on pressure built up (in the compression of the filament, and possibly expansion of the bowden tube) between the extruder gear and the nozzle, not directly on the motion of the extruder gear, remains the same.
In my opinion, the best fix for this is upgrading to firmware that compensates for it. In Marlin firmware (the stock Ender 3 firmware is based on Marlin 1.0), this feature is called Linear Advance. You tune a spring constant for your material's compression, and after setting it, extrusion is roughly proportional (linear) with respect to logical E-axis moves, regardless of the speed the print head is moving. However, upgrading firmware is nontrivial to do, and has a lot you might have to tune/tweak to get it working the way you want.
Short of that, there are a lot of ways of mitigating the problem:
Select "Outer Before Inner Walls" option (in Cura, or equivalent in other slicers) and "Infill Before Walls" when slicing. This will ensure the layer change happens inside the model (on an inner wall) not on the outside surface, because outer surface is neither the first nor last thing printed on the layer.
Increase X/Y acceleration and/or jerk limits so that motion can start/stop a lot quicker, so there's a shorter period for the disproportionate extrusion to happen in. But if you do this too much, you'll get layer shifts (failed prints) or at least bad vibrations that show up in print surface. My Ender 3 can handle accelerations up to at least 3000 mm/s² in X and Y and 10 mm/s "jerk" (a misnomer, thus the weird unit) and you can likely go higher if you experiment.
Tell slicer to retract at layer change. This will prevent extrusion from continuing during the Z move, but won't help with the extrusion during the time you're decelerating/accelerating in the XY plane.
Increase Z acceleration/jerk. This will reduce the time spent during the Z move, and might even allow the head to keep moving without coming to a full stop during layer change (but that can't happen if you turned on retract at layer change).
Print at lower speed. If the max speed is lower, it takes less time to decelerate/accelerate from/to it, and nozzle pressure will be lower (so extrusion is naturally closer to linear).
Enable coasting in your slicer. This is a hack that really poorly approximates what Linear Advance would do, but it can lead to underextruded walls and brittle prints. I always had bad luck with it and don't recommend it, but it's an option.
I would recommend starting with items 1 and 2. #1 is good for a lot of other things too, and the only tradeoff is that overhangs might print worse (in my experience that's not really the case and they sometimes print better even). And #2 will get you faster prints (sometimes at lot faster) which is nice.
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12121 | Anet A8 Marlin BLtouch moves up instead of down during homing
I have a previously working Anet A8 that I just flashed to Marlin 1.1.9 (bugfix) and installed a real BLtouch sensor. I followed setup instructions and believe my wiring is correct. When I try to do a G28, the extruder moves to the front left corner properly, then moved to center the BLtouch over the bed. Then, it moves up instead of down, the BLtouch drops the probe, the extruder moves up again, the BLtouch drops the probe again and the extruder moves up again until the carriage is near the top. Using Pronterface I can move the carriage back down, but have to use M211 S0 to let me get it close to the table. X, Y and Z move properly in Pronterface. I have changed the relevant settings in Marlin and recompiled with no success. The BLtouch does it's self test correctly and I can control the probe with commands.
Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Could it be that Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING has an incorrect value? It should be false.
I tried changing that with no effect. One setting I would like to try but can't is #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 changed to 1. Marlin won't compile and gives lots of errors that I haven't been able to resolve.
Z_HOME_DIR should be -1. Please add the instructions you followed, the BLTouch is a little more difficult to wire to the Anet board (using a pin from the LCD cable). For that reason I used an inductive sensor on my Anet A8.
I replugged the z stop microswitch and disabled the BLtouch features and bed leveling in Marlin 1.1.9bf. The A8 functions perfectly with the manual z switch. I am able to print just fine. I then plugged in the BLtouch in place of the z stop microswitch, enabled the BLtouch features per the youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWDkZtWwd6I&list=PLEJK8F0g9KPdtsSASKGWrmCzZGEvxRDM0&index=12&t=141s The result is the same as before, with a G28 command, the nozzle homes to the center of the bed, but the carriage goes up instead of down. The BLtouch cycles the pin twice and the carriage moves up.
Somehow in the homing sequence, the z servo is getting the wrong command. The z works correctly with Pronterface or when I use the mechanical z stop and disable BLtouch. It's got to be a setting or code issue with the BLtouch homing sequence.
SOLVED -- The problem turned out to be that the BLtouch was set up for 3.3 V and my Anet board is 5 V. The docs were not clear on what the BL defaulted to and I mistakenly thought 5 V. After I did a M280 P0 S140 command, the carriage would home properly with G28. Why it was going up instead of down was a Red Herring. I changed the settings in configuration_adv.h to force 5 V and did the EEPROM one time write. Now the A8 works correctly. Thank you for your help Oscar.
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12122 | Bizarre Underextrusion Issue
Printer: SecKit Go w/ BMG/v6 and SKR v1.3/TMC2130 Drivers
Slicer: Simplify3d or Cura (problem is much worse in Cura?)
Long story short - after getting this printer running, I have noticed that it will underextrude ONLY on corners on an internal perimeter specifically once we're above bottom layers - and nowhere else. See below:
E-Steps have been calibrated, extrusion multiplier has been calibrated (single perimeters are 0.48 mm), linear advance has been calibrated, but here it gets weird. Anything resembling a 'standard' value (suggested between 1-2) results in MASSIVE underextrusion after the speed change. I was able to get a good looking line using the linear advance test with a value of 0.15 (which seems very low).
Retraction (1 mm @ 30 mm/s), junction deviation (0.02) and all other settings are off the factory Simplify3d profile. Turning linear advance off makes the problem slightly better but doesn't fix it, going to a value of around 1 results in huge underextrusion after any change in direction.
I am absolutely lost as to what to try next.
I read that linear advance or junction deviation settings in firmware clash with Ultimaker Cura as it uses similar techniques in the slicer itself.
I switched over to PrusaSlic3r and 99% of the issue went away even with copying settings straight over.
Maybe Cura/S3D handle internal walls differently?
Thanks for posting an answer to your question! Please accept after 48 hours.
From what I can find, the SecKit Go has a direct drive extruder, so 0.15 is a very reasonable linear advance K value. For comparison, I have 0.6 for PLA with a bowden. Values in the range 1-2 are way too high for direct drive except possibly for really soft TPU.
Geometrically localized underextrusion almost always means you have either
loss of material due to oozing elsewhere, or
filament slippage
usually due to whatever's being printed just before the part with the underextrusion. If it's oozing you may need to increase retraction or disable or limit combing in your slicer (to prevent unretracted moves; these can ooze a lot of material when crossing infill areas). If it's slippage it could be from trying to print too fast.
I was under the impression that most direct drive extruders ended up with a value around 1 (the Titan clone I had before was 1.2).Happy to be wrong though. Although I have experience with multiple printers, 32 bit boards and 'fancy' stuff like this are new to me.
You can see in the print that the underextrusion happens on multiple perimeters, when there is zero chance for any oozing to happen. These are printing at 75mm/s which is well within the capable speeds of the SecKit (many are printing +100mm/s), and even if I slow down further to ~50mm/s I get the same issue in the same places
Are you aware that the units of K changed between Linear Advance 1.0 (older Marlin) and 1.5 (Marlin 2.0.x and 1.1.9)? See https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html
That might be why I thought the figure was nonsense, but I now don't believe it's relevant to the issue I am having. Increasing it makes considerably more underextrusion in -different- places, but decreasing or turning it off doesn't improve the underextrusion on corners of inside-perimeters only.
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12183 | Lack of smoothness / homogeneity in several first layers of print
I have a LultzBot TAZ 6 3D printer and the software I use for my prints is "Cura LulzBot Edition - 3.6.3". All of my printing settings/parameters are at their defaults (i.e. no personal customization is employed).
Below, two pictures are included that highlight an issue I have observed in many of my prints; these prints are carried out using the "default settings" provided by Cura for PLA. The two pictures are different orientations of the same printed out object; the volume of interest is outlined in red. Additionally, this volume represents the first several layers that are laid down by the extruder.
I am not familiar enough with 3D printing jargon to know if this has a particular name, but as you can see, there is clearly a lack of homogeneity in the laying down of several consecutive layers. Depending on the object being printed, this is not necessarily an issue. However, some of my objects have features that occur near the first several layers and are therefore affected by this issue.
Additionally, some of the these objects are inserted into other pieces, which are designed to be very tight-fitting. If you look carefully, you will see that this lack of homogeneity in the layer deposition leads to bulging of the PLA, which can increase the thickness of the part by ~0.5 - 1.00 mm for several layers. This increased thickness prevents these insertion pieces from fitting into their appropriate locations.
Any suggestions for fixing this issue? Is it an issue of over-extrusion for the first layer that then propagates for a few additional layers? Remember, all settings are at their software defaults for PLA.
Difficult to see but my best guess is that the first layers curl up hence the next few layers have too less space to deposit the filament and it over-extrudes outside the print part. Maybe you can spare some words on the bed and what you do to adhere the filament to the bed. Note that you also have a ringing problem, your print speed might be too high.
@0scar♦ To provide you with the requested information, it's just a standard heating bed that comes with a Taz6 (@ 60 degrees Celsius) and I use a raft. Also, what is "ringing"?
Try printing without a raft, rafts aren't necessary for PLA. Ringing is the echoing of edges, see the hole and the waves to the right. Usually printing slower and increasing belt tension fixes this.
There are several solution you should check in this order :
1"
The part is printed too close to bed: measure the first layer with a digital caliper to mach your first layer thikness, usualy 0.35 mm like so:
2"
Verify that there is no bevel on the first layer if the part looks like this : U make it look like this ■ and see if it changes something.
3"
Maybe it is a cooling / temperature problem. the bed should be at max 70 °C for PLA and check the cooling of the noozle.
4"
Check for an over extrusion problem! When you ask for 100 mm of filament, does it push 500 mm through? If so change this soon.
I am looking into "Shell : Initial layer horizontal expansion" right now to get you a perfect first layer.
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12186 | Printer places prints off the bed after change in bed Z-probe area settings
I really don't know what I am doing wrong. Since changing my bed level sensor from left of the extruder to back mount, it doesn't work proper anymore and I have some fundamental thing I don´t understand.
My settings:
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -89
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 90
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 145
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 6
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 60
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1.4
Now the first thing I don´t get is how especially LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION works. Cause when I set it to 11 here (I want it to measure 5 steps from the home) it measures almost in the middle not at the left edge. It seems that I need to subtract from where the printer homes (X99 Y45) which is why I choose X-89 but then it seems that the printer assumes a totally wrong size of the bed and ties to print off the bed...
Here where it measures:
16:02:44.774 : Bed x: -89.00 y: 10.00 z: 1.28
16:02:59.326 : Bed x: 90.00 y: 10.00 z: 1.23
16:03:13.466 : Bed x: 90.00 y: 145.00 z: 1.28
16:03:27.959 : Bed x: -89.00 y: 145.00 z: 1.30
Measures exactly where I want it to but the values make no sense. The first probe is actually about X10 Y10 but the display shows X-95 Y-50 while the above values are from the slicer log. That makes absolutely no sense to me!
I hope anyone can enlighten me.
How to set up the area for the sensor to reach, please read: "How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?" This explains exactly what you need to do to determine the correct values.
Yes I use that of course but according to this manual my settings would be the following:
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 16
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 210
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 210
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 70
If I would use these settings my extruder would keep crashing into the frame. The manual might be good to explain but for calculation it seems wrong...
Also everything what I set at FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION higher that 60 causes the error "The Y axis probing range is not enough to fit all the points defined in AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS".
If I set FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION to zero my printer display shows coordinates x: 24 and y: -60 as if it assumes the sensor be in front... But isn´t that defined by the offset from extruder? Both + values which means the sensor is on the back right.
The manual works perfectly, the calculations are fine, you just need to set the correct endstop to origin offsets. To be able to help you, you need to post the following things in your question, the X and Y offset for the probe and the X and Y offset for the endstop to origin. You should also mention that you are using Marlin 1.1.9, for 2.x it works differently, but it is also described in the answer.
My offsets are in my first post. I think I figured it out also I don´t know how... I was finally able to set FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION to something above 60 and that seems to work. That value always produced negative values in my y coordinates which somehow screwed up my print coordinates as well. Since the nozzle is still not at the edge while the display shows x:10 y:0 it is still weird but at least prints are in the middle of the bed again.
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12187 | Help troubleshooting: wavy/lifting lines
Can someone help me troubleshoot? Seems like it's sticking to the bed, but not well, as lines are somewhat wavy or lifting. Is it related to adhesion? Or maybe I need to clean my extruder?
I think I'm levelling the bed too close to the extruder. Maybe it's rubbing or the heat from the extruding is warping it.
Your nozzle is probably too close to the bed, use a thicker piece of paper. Please look at this answer, it describes what to do against the waves in the first layer.
Possible duplicate of "What causes ripples on part of first layer?".
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12171 | Marlin NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET with glass
In my custom printer I have probe and nozzle at same height and configured Marlin this way:
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 43, -20, 0 }
On the bed I've a 2 mm glass. How I need to change the configuration? Do I need to act adding a positive Z offset? like this?
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 43, -20, 2 }
You don't define the Z of this array definition. Actually the probe offset is not of interest at all; it is the probe trigger to bed distance that is of interest, this can be set using M851 Zx.xx or through the menu.
You can define the probe offset (or better the trigger point to bed level distance) in the array definition of NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET, but it is not the usual and logical place to do that. Instead you position the probe higher than the nozzle and define the offset later when calibrating the bed level. A positive value is a positive offset, Z+.
This answer is intended to be a more generic answer for Z-offset determination. The question is not clear on what kind of Z-probe is used. In case of a touch (or an inductive or a capacitive) probe, a probe trigger point defines how far the probe needs to be from the bed level (the sensor is always placed higher than the nozzle). This trigger point is a measure for the offset and used to determine the distance of the nozzle to the bed print surface (using the offset). Correct installation is trivial, as is the determination of the nozzle to trigger point definition. For a touch sensor, the probing element is either stowed, fully deployed, or pushed in during leveling up to the point that the trigger point is reached and the probe stowes the rest of the pin, see figure:
The M851 Zxx.xx offset is determined by lowering the nozzle beyond the trigger point until the nozzle hits a sheet of paper. If the stowed position to nozzle distance is used, the distance is too large and the nozzle will dive into the bed on printing. A similar sketch for inductive/capacitive proximity probes can be drawn.
When setting this up, I had to negate the Z offset. The process I followed was the same as described, lower nozzle until it touches the paper. But once you get the paper to touch the nozzle, you take the z reading and negate it thus giving you your Z Probe Offset.
No.
You define the Z-Value of the Nozzle to Probe offset mainly to get avoidance of collisions, but it is checked nowhere in the firmware code at all. Usually, the probe is mounted a millimeter or so above the nozzle anyway: you mount it in such a fashion that it triggers when the nozzle has the correct distance to the bed.
If you alter the bed by altering the distance between the nozzle and the metal part of the bed, you might need to alter the physical position of the probe to get the printer to trigger at the correct height, but you don't necessarily need to add a Z-offset.
You might, however, want to include it in the slicer for the case you want to print items in a sequence, which forces most slicers to try to do an error-avoidance pattern.
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12174 | Slow speed of the delta 3D printer
I'm running a large delta 3D printer with Repetier firmware.
The problem that is irritating me is that the speed of the carriages are too slow, like an old lady that is walking in a football field. When I command G1 Z10, for example, the carriages move with a super low speed. I checked everything but I couldn't find the problem.
Here are the specifics and the current settting of the printer:
electronics : Arduino Due + RADDS 3 42cmo6 6 kg
2.5 A stepper motors for x,y and z axes
3 TOSHIBA ''TB67S109'' stepper drivers (0.1 resistance, 1/16 mic stepping)
Vref of drivers: 0.7 V (when I increase this to 1 volt a weird
sound comes from steppers and the carriages won't move)
number of pulley teeth: 20
belt pitch: 2
steps per rev: 200
micro stepping: 1/16
steps per mm: 80
Max. travel speed: 300 for X,Y,Z
Homing speed: 100 for X,Y,Z
Travel acceleration: 3000 for X,Y,Z
Print acceleration: 1000 for X,Y,Z
PS: I'm currently calibrating the printer and haven't printed anything yet.
did you write the firmware custom? have you tried to send the command G1 Z10 F300?
Thanks for your reply.Yes I tried that but nothing changed.
ok, try altering max Travel to the insane 10000, then try with G1 Z100 F1000?
Thanks Terish.I solved it.But now there's another problem the Z stepper motor only moves in one direction.
I checked all of the endstops.They work fine.
I checked the stepper drivers ,all of them had the same voltage 0.7 v .
When I home the printer all the carriages move upward but when they hit the endstops the Z endstop stays triggered I mean the carriage holds the lever of microswitch.
oh? Did you forget to M503 seed the limits? Write your own answer!
I think so.Each time that I uploaded a firmware with new settings the printer remained with old settings.So I had to clean EEPROM first before uploading new settings.
and another thing that seems weird is that when I swap the X-axis and Z-axis motor cables on the Radds board. Both motors are working just fine but whichever motor that is plugged into the Z-axis motor driver socket would only move in one direction .
Please check your endstops with M119, usually (from experience), when a stepper only moves in one direction, this is caused by a triggered endstop.
When you command a move such as G1 Z10, you are omitting the speed at which the tool head travels. Without specifying the speed, the speed from the last command or speed setting is used. Frequently, after levelling the bed, the tool head is raised in Z direction with a low speed (movement in Z direction is always much slower than in X or Y direction), if you command a movement after raising the tool head it uses this speed. For faster movement you must include the feedrate, e.g. G1 Z10 F600, now it will accelerate from the initial feedrate (e.g. 300) to 600 during the move. If you want instant speed you set the feedrate first and then move the tool head:
G1 F600
G1 Z10
Remember, this is a Delta, the XYZ-"axis"-Motors are all moving along the vertical and their relative position causes the printhead to move in the XY plane as well as the Z axis.
@Trish I know, the fact that this is a delta machine has nothing to do with it, this is generic theory about G-code. But good you mention this for others to understand. :-)
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12159 | BLTouch error Marlin 2.x (on SKR 1.3)
I have some issue with my BLTouch (I'm new to bed levelling) :
I compiled Marlin 2.x (for my SKR 1.3) for a Antclabs BLTouch, and everytime I power on the printer, it shows this error message: Failed to enable Bed Leveling, echo Bed Levelling off, echo : Fade Height 0, FF, ok:
The LED of the BLTouch is on, I can still deploy and stow the pin, and do "levelling ABL" but Homing Z (for example) is not working.
I linked the config.h and config_adv.h in case needed below:
Configuration.h
Configuration_adv.h
I have potentially find the problem, need time to confirm, and I'll write here, but thanks
it's fixed : it's because I didn't level the bed once after flashing the firmware, once it has been done the error is no more
From a comment can be read that the OP found the solution:
it's fixed : it's because I didn't level the bed once after flashing the firmware, once it has been done the error is no more
How did you level the bed? Each time I press home, my print head goes all the way to the end rail and try to keep going until I turn off the power.
@MarcusMiles Please post your own question, it will attract attention and possibly answers, it will not receive answers here in comments. Please take the [tour] and read [help] how SE sites work, we're not regular discussion forums, instead it's a simple Q and A format.
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11909 | 3D printing extruder not warming up
I faced some problem with my 3D printer device. It seems the bed warms up without any problem, however, the hotend does not warm up!
Could you please help me identify what the problem is?
A photograph of the status panel would be helpful.
Are there M104 or M109 G-code commands found in the G-code file? Does the hotend warm up when you heat it up using the "prepare" menu item, e.g. for PLA? Furthermore, what kind of printer, hot-end are you referring to? Loose connection, broken heating element are the first to look at for a mechanical/electrical issue.
I really hope the extruder doesn't warm up as this would be a problem with your stepper motor :)
I'm sure you mean the hotend doesn't heat up. This could be a number of things but i would start to double check the pinout in your code vs the pins on your mainboard and measure if it gives 12v/24v (depending on your PSU) output.
There's a lot more info required to properly help you.
What board are you using?
What OS are you using? Marlin or something else?
Share the relevant code of the OS for the hotend config/pinout
potentially share pictures of your wiring
This answer contains a lot of questions, this is not how SE works, this is not a forum, please save these for the comments under the question. When you have enough (50) reputation you will be able to post comments. Your questions are valid and the OP should add this to the question, however, they do not belong here.
How does that make sense? I can post answers but no comments before i have points, but to gain points one must answer questions. This is a really strange system and i don't appreciate being told what i say doesn't belong here. If that's how new members are treated I will find the way out very fast.
First, I want to make sure if your hotend is really not heating up. If you are saying the numbers are not showing (like when it is heating, the number on display or octoprint says 0/180) this could be a Thermistor problem. Check to make sure if your hot end is heating up by putting a paper or filament under it. DO NOT touch with your hand.
Second, If your hotend is truly not heating up, then several things can be happening.
Your hotend is wired wrong. Make sure your board is correctly wired.
Your hotend is dead. Change to different hotend and see if it works.
Your hotend is not getting enough power.
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11937 | BLTouch missing build plate on levelling
I have finally sorted the problems out with the frozen screen, but inevitably there's always more to take there place.
I have installed the latest version of the 'Tiny Machines' Firmware but on trying to do a 'Level' on the bed the nozzle/BLTouch sensor moves to the front left corner and tries to take a 'level' reading whilst the BLTouch sensor is 20 mm off the build surface, so the nozzles hits the build surface.
Can anyone point me in the right direction to where the settings are to correct this?
I have an E3D v6 HotEnd and to the left of that is the BLTouch Sensor (60 mm to the left and 6 mm forward).
Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Are you compiling the sources yourself, or use a premade hex file? Which Marlin version?
Tiny Machines firmware is based on Marlin firmware. Note that I personally am more comfortable using the original sources than a fork or copy from another derivative source. Using a derivative means that you will have to wait a second development commitment to post new features and bug fixes.
A similar reasoning is applicable using premade hex files opposed to compiling the sources yourself.
There are 2 things (related to the bed X, Y positioning) you need to be aware of when using a Z probe. When using the probe you must ensure that the probe deploys on the bed during probing.
First, define in your firmware that the probe can only deploy in the center of the build plate. In e.g. Marlin firmware this is described in the configuration.h; you need to enable Z_SAFE_HOMING:
// Use "Z Safe Homing" to avoid homing with a Z probe outside the bed area.
//
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
Second, you need to define a confined bed area for the sensor to deploy, this is described in question: "How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?".
Note that flashing an existing firmware does not guarantee anything, the used firmware from Tiny Machines (or e.g. from TH3D) try to simplify the firmware configuration for you by adding additional specific settings/constants (#defines), underneath the waterline all sorts of things are then handled for you. Personally I'd like to be in control and do the modifications myself. If the probe position you use is different from the probe position used in the pre-build firmware you will not be able to use this firmware safely. We can check this: e.g. in the Tiny Machines firmware there are 3 predefined positions for the sensor, in the sources itself none is active (see below), so it is not known which option is used for compiling the hex files they made available:
//#define CREALITY_ABL_MOUNT //Using creality ABL mount
//#define E3D_DUALFAN_MOUNT // Using HD Modular mount as above with 2 5015 blowers and sensor on the right
//#define E3D_PROBEMOUNT_LEFT // Default is probe mounted to the right for E3D. Set this to invert.
When you define one of these options above, the probe position can be read from:
#if (ANY(ABL_BLTOUCH, ABL_EZABL,ABL_NCSW) && ANY(HotendE3D, HotendMosquito))
#if ENABLED(E3D_DUALFAN_MOUNT)
#if ENABLED(E3D_PROBEMOUNT_LEFT)
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -63, 5, 0 }
#else
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 63, 5, 0 }
#endif
#else
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 32, 5, 0 }
#endif
#endif
You will see that the E3D_PROBEMOUNT_LEFT and E3D_DUALFAN_MOUNT need to be active (you see that E3D_PROBEMOUNT_LEFT is embedded in the E3D_DUALFAN_MOUNT option, this cannot be correct...) to get a probe offset of (-63, +5) which is close to your probe (60 mm to the left and 6 mm forward translates to (-60, +6)). This is exactly why I use the Marlin firmware from the main source code, not a simplified derivative (which in this case is not accurate and unknown what options are used in the pre-build hex files).
Please note that the original Marlin sources also maintain configuration files for many printer types, e.g. the CR-10S is also listed in this overview.
Many thanks for your time and help. the only reference to what you have described is:#if PROBE_SELECTED
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE + 5)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (MIN_PROBE_EDGE + ClipClearance)
#endif. I am very new on modifying these text lines, How would you alter these?, I have tried adding a number after the line but i get an error
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11957 | How to connect power and fan to RAMPS 1.6?
My RAMPS 1.4 board has failed. I bought a RAMPS 1.6 to replace it but :
The old board had 4 power wires that went to 5 A and 11 A respectively. The RAMPS 1.6 has only 1 pair of power inputs. Which pair from the PSU do I connect to the board? Or do I combine them and connect them to their polarity respectively?
I have a cooling fan (12 V) for part cooling. In RAMPS 1.4, I had it connected to the pins between the power inputs and the X stepper driver on the board. The RAMPS 1.6 doesn't have such a pair of pins. Is it possible to connect it somewhere else on the 1.6 board?
Hi welcome to 3DPrinting.SE!
You only need to connect one pair (one red, one black) of sufficient wire gauge to the single power connector's plus (red) and minus (black). There is no need to bundle multiple pairs from the PSU. Some pinout graphs are not clear in this respect! I've always connected the heated bed through an external MOSFET to keep large currents away from the board, but according to the design, it is capable of handling the current.
E.g. this is the correct pinout:
And this an incorrect pinout graph (look at the lower left where the power needs to be connected to the board, this hints to bundling the 11 A and 5 A wiring):
The part cooling fan should preferably not be connected to a (non-schedulable) 12 V header. Instead you should use the D9 output connector to schedule the airflow of the fan for part cooling.
Note there is no spare 12 V header available on the board. You could use the spare PSU pair to power the coldend (radiator) fan.
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11587 | Extruder doing the shimmy, How can I fix?
Printer: Monoprice Maker Select V2 3D Printer
Problem: Extruder not working
History: My extruder was clogged and I didn't realize it at first and I opened the extruder and pulled out the stuck piece but later I realized it still was not working. When I put pressure on it the motor rotates and the filament comes out but does not work by it self.
Try 1: Thought something was wrong with the gears so I reseated them, Didn't work.
Try 2: Thought the extruder motor broke, so I replace the NEMA 17 motor, Didn't work.
Try 3: Plugged the motor into the x-axis plug the motor works as shown here -
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kY4okR4oqkYSyzhN8
This is how the motor behaves when pluged into the [original] extruder plug-
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QPo7RNeB6AFi6KsM6
Any help is appreciated, Thank you :)
Welcome to 3D Printing.SE! Did you try a different cable on extruder replacing the current one?
Have you looked into this question?
@0scar Thank you for your reply, I checked the cable with my multimeter all the wires are working as intended. My only thinking is the the board some how is damaged. Should I order a new board?
I also tried increasing the voltage too the nema motor as suggested in the other thread that also didnt fix the issue
My second guess was also a fried board...
It was the stepper driver, Replacing the motherboard fixed the issue.
Many thanks for answering your own question! Glad to see you got it fixed, happy printing!
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11913 | Nozzle goes down after bed leveling BLTouch
I have two printers, one is an Anet A8 and the other one is a CreatBot DX plus. On both of them I installed a BLTouch, firstly on the DX and today on the A8. I have never had a problem with the probe, but today I am experiencing some problems. I just set the offset, by doing the procedure, and I found to that the Z0 is -0.8 mm.
Problem is, when I start to print (I use Cura as a Slicer and OctoPrint), I run G28 and G29, everything is fine and the bed gets mapped. When the print starts, something weird occurs: the nozzle goes down for the regions where the bed is higher! So, the layer that is put down, is very thin and the nozzle actually dives into the bed! It is like a Z0 too low, so the nozzle crashes into the bed, but it is not because in X100 Y100 it is perfectly fine! Could you have any idea why this occurs?
What have I tried?
Changing bed springs
Because I was curious, and impatient I changed the springs with the Ender ones I bought online. The problem is still here! I can see the bed closer to the nozzle during bed leveling, compared to the left side. So I screwed the right side, to see any difference. However, the nozzle seems to be always closer on the right side! I checked the X rods, they are leveled.
Searched online
I checked almost everywhere online and I found out that it could be a problem related to the bilinear bed leveling. So I changed to linear, and apparently now I can print! I believe it is something related to the mesh the firmware creates after the leveling, which is avoided for the linear. <I will let you know tomorrow, after I change the frame whether the bilinear will work or not! I can still see that the left-side part of the print is closer to the bed, but now I can print at least. Will let you know! Bye!>
Welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Is the bed flat or is there a bump that is not mapped by G29?
Do you have a Z offset stored for the head somewhere?
ZO already stored and no bumps on the bed :/
Check and potentially replace your bed springs as this is a common cause with cheap bed springs.
An immediate workaround is redoing your Z-offset but most likely after a while you have to repeat it until you replace the bed springs with stronger ones.
After replacing springs you have to redo Z-offset again.
Hi thank you! I will do it once I will change the whole frame, so in 2 days. Hope it will solve the problem!
In my opinion, you should check if you get consistent value every time you G29.
If you didn't do anything and the value keeps changing that means your bed is not durable which could be due to bad bed springs.
Now if you do get the same value, again and again, that means your bed is okay.
This means you need to see your Cura. You may have something set in the Start G-code that might be causing it to move further down.
Hi thank you! Because I am waiting for the metallic frame, I will change the springs once it arrives, on Monday. In the meanwhile I will do some G29, because I can feel the bed a bit loose when I touch it! But I don’t get how the bed could move so much just after a G29. It is super weird, I do G29 then the print start and the nozzle goes down only on the right side of the bed! I can clearly see it, because from left to right the printed lines disappear!
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11885 | How do you call the Z-axis mechanism in a Cartesian 3D Printer?
How do you call the mechanism that allows linear motion along the Z-axis in a Cartesian 3D Printer?
I know what the individual parts are; it is a lead screw, a smooth rod ... but how do you call the mechanism that allows this linear motion?
Mechanism is defined as: an assembly of moving parts performing a complete functional motion, often being part of a large machine
So I guess, it has to have a name, doesn't? .. but I am unable to find it
I would go with "z-axis mechanism". Not everything has one word for its name.
I would like to analyze it .. I think it is possible to do that with Kinematics .. But I am not sure where do I start .. Maybe in the Math or Physics Stack Overflow, but first I would like to have an idea of what to do ..
I would suggest "z-axis assembly" to refer to the collection of all the parts that contribute to z-axis motion/stability.
So, I would go the same with the "x-axis assembly" and "y-axis assembly" .. I don't know ..
Linear actuator would be the proper name for the mechanism driving the movement along a single axis. There are 2 linear actuators driving the X-axis platform (for a Prusa i3 Cartesian printer, or the build platform for a raising bed Cartesian printer like a CoreXY, H-bot, etc.), the collection of parts could be named the Z-axis assembly.
and, How is it called for the X and Y axis?
X-axis is ofren caled X-axis assembly or portal/cantilever ; Y-axis is usually the Y-axis assembly or Bed-movement ; This does not work for a CoreXY, where X and Y are called the "Horizontal" and Z the Bed-movement.
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11906 | Z level babystepping works inconsistently after BLTouch was installed
After I installed the BLTouch sensor, the manual adjustment of the Z offset is unreliable. I found that for it to work, the software endstops must be disabled. If they are enabled, the nozzle won't move either up not down.
But if they are disabled, it sometimes works and some others does not, I can't find a pattern to it.
Any ideas of what I'm doing wrong?
By disabled you mean de-activated in the firmware?
There's an option in marlin that adds in the move axis menu an option to disable soft endstops. Disabling it this way allows the user to move any axis below 0 and above the printer size.
I'm using marlin 1.9 btw
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11911 | Help needed implementing Bear Upgrade
I am attempting to build a 3D printer using the Bear Upgrade for guidance.
In this moment, I am implementing the X-Axis. The X_end_idler consist in two parts, the idler and the belt tensioner, as you can see on the following pictures:
The belt tensioner is inserted inside the idler. It is attached to the idler with two screws on the back part of the idler.
The tensioner holds a 2GT Idler Pulley as per the image:
So, here comes my question to anybody that has attempted to implement the Bear Upgrade:
How is the pulley attached to the tensioner?
The tensioner has a hole that crosses from side to side, but there is no space on the design where to fit a screw head nor a nut. I am a bit lost here and would like to know if there is a trick I can follow, before attempting to modify the design.
Here I attach the link to the pieces: Bear_extruder_and_x_axis
Bear_upgrade
What about a 3 mm axle/shaft, as it is enclosed it will not fall out. You could even cut the head of a screw and use the threads.
Or maybe a roll/spring-pin?
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11971 | Does an enclosure need a roof to print ABS?
I have an Ender 5 printer, which is a frame-based printer with no enclosure. However, I want to print ABS. Some experiments with a massive cardboard box have shown me I need an enclosure.
Because the printer has a box frame, fitting some perspex sheets will be easy. The bit that won't be easy is the top - the filament tube projects fairly high.
Will I need to cover the top for ABS though? I read somewhere that drafts are a killer for ABS, which perspex around the sides should prevent. I guess most of the heat from the heat bed will be lost out of the top, so will this be a problem for layer adhesion?
I'm going to do the same and would suggest checking this link out
for adding a top to Ender 5 It has a top and mitigates the X/Y movement issues.
Interesting, thanks for the link. I'm using a spare cupboard I've found.
Sides without a top will help.
Sides with a top will help more.
Do you need either? That depends. How warm, how dry, how drafty is your printing room?
The room is not particularly warm, but it isn't damp or drafty either. It's a box room.
From experience I can tell you that boxing it up completely is not always a good thing to do. I have covered the front and top of an Ultimaker 3E printer to find out after some printing time that the cold ends weren't getting enough cooling, so I ended up clogging the nozzle assembly, preventing finishing the print. If you need to box it up to create a higher enclosure temperature, you better be sure the electronics, steppers and nozzles (that are in the enclosure) are cooled properly or do not get too hot, or alternatively you need to regulate the enclosure temperature.
Okay that's interesting. I think I'll try boxing the sides first and see what that does. It is quite a cold room (not centrally heated so about 14-16 °C this time of year), but I can try setting the build plate to 100 °C.
If ambient temp gets under 70°F, layer adhesion becomes a real problem. I have found that enclosing the space and adding heat makes the printing more reliable.
This answer is based on a few years of solely printing ABS. I've got my printer on a tool cart and the spool holder is above on a post. The first time winter ruined a print, I threw a pallet covering plastic bag over all of it and put a small, low powered, forced air heater more or less pointing at the printing area. It wasn't air tight, but I made effort to close it up pretty well.
The current location of the 3D printer is on the bottom tier of the cart with a temperature controlled heater pointing at it. I opened up a large amazon box and set it against the cart, forming walls on 3 sides. There is poor sealing but the print quality stayed good.
Oh and obviously it is very dangerous and have burned down my workplace and home several times, so don't do it.
I can't tell if you're saying that an enclosure is needed or not. Please clarify. And welcome.
If ambient temp gets under 70°F, layer adhesion becomes a real problem. I have found that enclosing the space and adding heat makes the printing more reliable.
You might want to edit that into your answer, as an opening summary.
What is your last sentence saying? I can't tell if you are being sarcastic
@marcellothearcane 3D printing communities across the internet are very much safety police now. I guess there is not any more common sense. Yes, much sarcasm.
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11988 | Upgrading printer controller
I purchased a (very) low tier printer a while back, and now I am looking to start upgrading. First on my list is to upgrade the controller1).
My initial plan was to upgrade to an Arduino Mega with a RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin, but as I started to try to find a RAMPS 1.4 board I started questioning my plan. Almost every source I could find for the board was either out of stock or very sketchy. Then I discovered that RAMPS 1.6 exists, but I can find even fewer places with it in stock.
Is the Mega + RAMPS combo still what people are using? I made a printer 4 years ago and that was what I used, but due to the scarcity of RAMPS boards for sale I am now unsure if it is still being used by the community.
If RAMPS still is the recommendation, what brands are reputable? (I'm trying to figure out if using RAMPS 1.4 with a Mega is an outdated solution and if there are better solutions these days.)
1) Upgrading is necessary for:
Temperature/humidity sensors for monitoring/feedback; enclosure heaters (plan on having enclosed build space, work in a relative cold space); larger display with plenty of tactile switches; light sensor so the LEDs illuminating the enclosure can be modulated to provide more constant light levels for a webcam; possibly some joy sticks to manually maneuver the extruder and bed; etc. Basically I want something that can feasibly handle any unnecessary sensor/input I may eventually want to add. I'm familiar with Arduino and know it has those capabilities, but have no clue about other controllers.
Well, the 32-bit boards are becoming more general now. These are fine boards when you like to tinker and need many extruders, steppers, etc. Do note that for a simple printer this may be over the top. RAMPS shields are sold in abundance on the Chinese vending or auction sites. What is the reason for the upgrade?
I'm a software junkie so I want to be able to have full access to the code on my machine, and I also want to have a controller flexible enough to handle all the upgrades I plan on adding to the printer eventually
RAMPS boards aren't really "state-of-art" anymore. Marlin supports both modern 32-bit boards (SKR 1.3, SKR Pro, MKS SGEN L, Fysetc S6 etc.) as well as the older Arduino / AVR based boards (RAMPS, Fysetc F6, MKS GEN L etc.).
You may also want to take a look at the Klipper firmware. It supports lots of such small features, and you could also use multiple boards working together as one system, all controlled with a Raspberry Pi.
RAMPS boards aren't really "state-of-the-art" anymore.
The newest version, the Ramps 1.6 Plus, at least supports drivers with UART / SPI communication though, which is required for most "silent" TMC drivers. BigTreeTech's GitHub still seems to miss schematics for it though.
Marlin supports both modern 32-bit boards (SKR 1.3, SKR Pro, MKS SGEN L, Fysetc S6 etc.) as well as the older Arduino / AVR based boards (RAMPS, Fysetc F6, MKS GEN L etc.).
Out of those, I'd currently recommend the Fysetc S6 with TMC2209 or TMC5160 drivers.
You may also want to take a look at the Klipper firmware (as mentioned in Puneit Thukral's answer).
It supports lots of such small features (as mentioned in your comment), and you could also use multiple boards working together as one system, all controlled with a single Raspberry Pi.
It's based on Python modules, so it should be relatively easy to add features to.
If you own a Raspberry Pi , you may first want to try Klipper firmware. This firmware does the heavy lifting on the RPi itself and sends commands to the printer board via USB.
My Ender 3 pro works much better with this firmware.
My printer improved a lot as well. Since my board had expansion slots with free pins, I can also add external stepper drivers. Of course I admit that just buying a SKR board would save a lot of time.
As per https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.6,
The RAMPS 1.6 is the second RAMPS iteration released by BIQU/BIGTREETECH. It replaces the original green power connector with a pair of screw terminals, adds a larger heatsink over the MOSFETS, and has a larger bed MOSFET. It maintains the surface-mounted fuses and flush MOSFETS of the RAMPS 1.5.
Also, the positions of the D1 and D2 diodes have been swapped from the positions in RAMPS 1.4, the D1 diode is now the diode closest to fuse F2. The same is true for RAMPS 1.5, also manufactured by BIQU/BIGTREETECH.
In other words, RAMPS 1.6 is pretty much the same as the 1.4 board. It just has some minor changes.
As for availability, I have found numerous listings for RAMPS 1.4 and RAMPS 1.6 on Amazon (US) and Ebay (US) for under $10.
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11975 | My Z-axis is limited to 15 mm at height
I have a Prusa i3 and I have a problem concerning my Z axis. It stops at 15 mm even the object to print is more than this.
Can you, please, help me to solve this problem.
Hello Fedaret and welcome to the Stack. Be sure to take the [tour]. Your question is lacking detail and as such is hard to answer without knowing a couple of things about your printer setup. Please [edit] and fill in the [placeholders] in the template I added and then remove the leading "<" and trailing ">" afterwards. This will turn it visible and help us help you find the actual problem.
@Trish is right, it would help greatly to have more details, such as the model of printer, photos of the printer at the upper height limit, and a video with sound of moving the head against the 15 mm stop.
Without those details you might answer your question for yourself (and for SE) by trying these tests and considering the results. If you have already done these things, it would help us help you if you included your results, and other experimental results, in the question.
The problem could be in the mechanism or in the slicing program.
Using the UI, can you raise the head above 15 mm? On the Prusa3D branded i3m3 the UI will allow you to move the Z axis hard against the top stops. If the UI can raise it, the problem is more likely to be in the slicing program.
If the UI can not raise the head above 15 mm, move has high as you can and listen carefully. Does it simply fail to move with no noise? Is there a clicking or banging sound as you try to move higher?
If there is a clicking or banging sound, something hard is interfering.
If it simply stops moving, does the machine reset or just stop with no glitching on the UI? It is reset, look for a cable problem, such as a short circuit or wires pulling on the controller PCB. If it is just a silent refusal to move, it could be the Z-axis plug is loose and being tugged by the cable bundle to the head.
If the problem seems to be in the slicing software, check that the Z-height is set properly there. If good slicing software thinks you have only a 15 mm height, it won't try to print higher than that.
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12024 | Error: 20, non stop, while connected to Pronterface: no G-code uploaded yet
I am trying to make a pen plotter from scratch. I hooked up two scanners to form X and Y axis, and using a CD drive to lift the pen. I connected everything to Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMPS 1.4 shield with DRV8825 drivers. I tested everything using simple Arduino sketches that sent step signals. So far, so good, however, today I uploaded GRBL and downloaded Pronterface, to actually use G-code, but after successfully connecting on Pronterface to the port at the 115200 Baud rate, I am only getting error: 20 non stop.
Hi welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Note that error 20 notifies you of an incorrectly sent G-code instruction. Are you sure Pronterface isn't sending constantly ( e.g. to probe for temperatures) while GBRL doesn't support the G-code?
I am sooooo sorry, that I am replying today after 4 days passed. My internet connection was not working. About the question here is that: even if pronterface is sending some unsupported g code, the basic +1, +10, +100 mm movements for X and Y should work. This got mpre confusing when I uploaded Marlin instead of GRBL, everything started to work perfectly. But when I switched back to GRBL, nothing was working again! And sorry, once again for such a late reply.
I think Pronterface is sending M105 to probe the temperatures of hotend and bed. GBRL doesn't support that. As it is periodically sent, the program reports an error, you cannot use this program for movement while it already is in error.
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12031 | Is there any way to correct uneven bed temperature?
I'm using an Ender 3 Pro with stock heated bed & glass build surface on it (without any base of stock magnetic plate). My heated bed looks completely flat too despite of many uneven Ender 3 heated beds around.
But when bed temperature set to 70 °C and I check the temperature of bed with infrared laser thermometer gun, the front of the bed is around 72 °C and the back is around 64-68 °C. So the temperature is different at all sides and this looks like leading to warps too.
Is there any way to make it more even for all bed surface?
you can add insulation to the bottom of the bed. My CR10 had some, but it didn't go to the edges, so the edges would sink heat away and run cooler. I just stuck old double-stick foam on there, but there's kits you can buy. My DIY fix killed more than half of the diff, so i was pleased. It also helps just to pre-heat the whole thing longer to allow temps to stabilize deep in the mass.
I guess the tradeoff is the more you insulate the bed the slower it will cool down.
I had this exact issue with my Qidi X-Plus. After checking with a thermometer there was a spread of 9°C - enough to burn in (always the same) certain areas when printing at higher extremes of temperatures, or causing poor adhesion in other certain areas at lower temps. Very similar scenario too, I noticed this primarily when switching over to glass from the stock magnetic plate.
My solution was quite straightforward - I set the bed temperature on the printer's control panel and preheated it before sending it a print. As long as I left it there for a solid 10 minutes after getting up to temperature it balanced within around 1°C. I observed far more consistent results from print to print.
Now I don't know your exact machine myself, so I don't know if this is possible on the control panel on an Ender 3. However if it's not, as an alternative possibly consider looking up how to stick a pause in the initial gcode in Cura to see if you can achieve the same effect.
Great tip! Tried it on my E3, got a smooth first layer. Thanks! Control, temperature, bed
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12008 | Z Axis homes, then bounces up 15 mm and stays there when printing
Prusa, I3 Mk2.
Marlin 2.0.3
The test model printed fine prior to installing Marlin 2.0.3. It's not the slicer or GCode. I tried several models, and all of them worked perfectly prior to the update. The video below shows what's happening. The Z axis homes, then when the heating is over the head centers, and rises to 15 mm (as shown on the display). The print starts, the head doesn't move down but the display shows 0.1 mm. I know I missed something in the Configuration.h but I can't figure out what.
This sounds like the G-code contains a bad command. Might you share the first about 50-100 lines of G-code? We can cut it back then. If it is too long, pastebin is a good choice for the whole thing. Another possibility might be wrong Steps/mm on the Z-axis
So the code worked just fine previously. This only happened after the firmware update. The model was never re-sliced.
https://pastebin.com/V7QSS83M
The only thing different about the firmware config was the enabling of Mesh bed leveling. I assume that's the issue but I have no clue.
ok, I see no misplaced Z-movement commands, this must be in the firmware. Now, we would need that...
Could the firmware have a misconfigured Z axis offset (stale data in EEPROM?) or similar?
Welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Please post a link to your configuration.h, e.g. posted on PasteBin so we can help you. Also post the brand, this isn't an original Prusa, or is it?
I assume I have an offset that is being manipulated by the mesh leveling but I truly don't know.
https://pastebin.com/sCmcCzJt - Configuration.h
The printer is a Reprap Guru, I3 Mk2, Ramps 1.4
In the video, you can see on the screen where it shows the Z distance to be 15mm during warm up, then once the extruder is up to temp and it moves to print, you can see it believes it is at a Z distance of "0". Somewhere between the warm up and print it is getting the idea it needs to reset its distance to zero. I'd be looking in the G-code as to where it's doing this, which might give you a clue as to why it's doing it.
The GCode is posted above, and again, it was not modified from a previously working version. This only started after the FIRMWARE update.
Has anyone got any experience with the Mesh bed leveling, I'm thinking maybe that's part of the issue.
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12009 | How to convert png to stl?
Is it possible to convert an image image to STL file format?
E.g. I don't need the coloring, I need the lines.
You need to clarify what you want. A thin slab of everything but the white/transparent parts of the image? Black strokes only with some thickness to them? Raised black strokes on top of a slab of the whole thing? Something else entirely?
Dont need color. Only to test. you can convert to me?
Check out this link: https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-convert-images-jpg-png-into-stls-for-3d-printing/
I suggest your objective can best be accomplished by converting the image to a single color vector file. You can do this with Inkscape (free, Linux, Windows, Mac) by combining the built-in bitmap tracing feature with some manual editing. I attempted to do so, but the coarseness of the image would result in excessive manual edit time. It may even be faster to reduce the opacity of the image and create a manual tracing on a second layer.
Once you have a vector file, you can use any number of 3D modeling programs to convert the file to a 3D STL. Fusion 360, Tinkercad and OpenSCAD allow import of SVG files to be extruded to user-specified thickness.
First you need a single color png image, you can do this by opening the file in any image editor (even Paint included with Windows) and painting white over all the colored pixels (more advanced image editors maybe able to do this automatically).
Then you can use OpenSCAD (free download from openscad.org), enter the following code: (obviously, replace the file path with your own)
surface("C:\\Users\\Nir\\Documents\\test.png",center=true);
Now press F5 (at this point you'll see a low quality preview), then F6 (to do a full render and view an high quality preview), then F7 to save the STL
The resulting model will be higher then you want but you can scale the result STL in your slicer (or use the OpenSCAD scale command if you prefer code)
PNGs are 2-dimensional picture data files. STL however is a 3-dimensinal surface data files. The two are not inherently transformable into one another, as there simply is no 3rd dimension encoded in the PNG.
However, there are ways to generate a 3rd dimension from a color picture:
Lithophanes take color information and use that as a degree of deviation from a base plane.
Using 3D design software that supports importing image data, one can trace the areas in 2D and extrude them to different heights or emboss the patterns into a block, even with different depths for each color.
For things like a coat of arms, you do not require a full 3D conversion, essentially all you need is a lithograph-like effect. The best program I've found for such conversions is 3D Builder which is a free Microsoft download for windows users (yes, I was surprised too). It can use either color or degrees of greyscale shading to determine the z-axis depth of each region in the picture. Makes the cleanest conversion I've found so far. Exports as a .3mf file but can be readily converted to an .stl for 3D printing (using something like SwiftConverter for example). Also has an option to invert the conversion which I've found quite useful.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithography or https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithophane ??
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11757 | Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Monoprice Maker Ultimate thread pitch or number of steps?
Does anyone know the the thread pitch or number of steps for the Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Monoprice Maker Ultimate?
If you navigate to e.g. the Marlin printer firmware configuration file for the Wanhao Duplicator 6 you will find that the steps per mm are defined as:
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2...]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80.0395, 80.0395, 400.48, 99.1 }
Sidenote, somebody who posted this has diligently tried to tune their machine, this should read:
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80., 80., 400., 100. }
From these values you can tune your own if needed.
Now we do the math with the following assumptions:
400 steps per mm,
standard 200 steps per revolution stepper motor (1.8°) and
assuming that your board uses 1/16 µ-steps
Dividing the physical stepper steps per revolution by the firmware steps per millimeter we can calculate how much the nut advanced in a single revolution, i.e. 200/(400/16) = 200/25 = 8 millimeter. The nut therefor advanced 8 mm per complete revolution of the stepper. This means you will most probably have Tr8x8(P2) lead screws.
Do note that there are online calculators that can help you out doing the math for you, e.g. this RepRap calculator page.
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11786 | How to get stuck filament out of this direct drive extruder?
I recently installed a "Direct Extruder System" on my Ender 3 using a 3D printed mount. For the first few minutes it worked fine, but after I looked at it once again, I saw that there's nothing anymore coming out of the nozzle so I directly stopped the print.
I've seen that the filament has broken at the point where it gets into the extruder and the motor just extruded it into the air besides the inlet. Today I've taken apart the extruder, and I saw, that there's quite some filament stuck inside the inlet. So I heated the extruder up, tried to remove the PLA, but even on 230 °C it was hard. I don't know what to do now, and I don't really have the option to buy a new extruder now. Does anyone know what to do?
Hi GamesNic, welcome to 3D Printing.SE! Maybe some photos will help clarify what you mean. Which extruder did you print? Did you reuse the old hotend? What hotend do you have. Without such information it would be difficult to answer! Also, I suspect the terminology you use is different than we use. The extruder is the part pushing the filament, the hot end the hot part, the cold end the part above the hotend that gets cooled to prevent heat creeping up to the extruder. Where is the inlet located you talk of?
First of all, thanks for responding! Sorry, I switched extruder with hotend. Basically, I only changed the driving system. The hotend still is the stock one that came with the ender 3. The only thing I did was to 3D print a mounting part for the extruder motor, that sits directly over the hotend. The inlet is, where the PTFE tube once was. And the stuck filament is right there where the hot part is, not too wide up to the cold end. Pictures are here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=10ZwX-_mmaOSPfamq6C8Chvshs-Z6q_5f
I posted a link to a drive folder in my comment, there you can see the extruder driver and the hotend taken apart. And I'm not able to take any of the filament out, as I said, even on 230 °C the filament is hard, even if I poke it.
@Trish, pics added. GamesNic, you're going to either need to heat that hot end with it not mounted to the machine, so that the entire thing heats to 230 so that you can at least take a small drill bit, screw it into the melted plastic then when its cooling, yank it out or buy a new throat.
the photo shows, that the filament seems to be bunched up in the heatbreak... Can you show the construction as it should be assembled and/or a link to the mod? I have the feeling, that the general construction of this has an error, a lack of constraining on the filament between extruder and hotend-assembly.
Considering the amount of filament in the heatbreak, the PTFE tube has not been inserted all the way through and when it got heated, it filled the cavity with molten plastic. You need to heat it up not connected to the heat exchanger and pry out the goo. If more comments follow I'll move the comments as a thread to chat. Good luck fiddling ;-)!
short answer: just get a new tube and nozzle. (you should get some critical spare parts anyway)
I finally did it! I let the thing cool down and poked all of the goo through with a hex bit, it came out in one piece. I also know saw what the problem was: I didn't connect the extruder with a PTFE tube to the hotend, which then made a massive clog inside there. After shortening the tube to the distance between hotend and extruder, everything worked perfectly! Thanks for all the answers :D
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11739 | FabPro 1000 making flat little discs?
I'm just getting into 3D printing, and I got a FabPro 1000 (to make miniatures, mainly). I've tested it by trying to print a few things, but it's been a disaster every time:
It just prints out these flat little discs that have fallen into the resin-filled tray, not stuck to the top surface as they should. I don't have an agitator, but I shake the material really well before use and fill the tray a decent amount. Here's my latest config file, if anyone wants to see.
Is my printer broken or am I doing something wrong? How can I figure out what's causing this to happen? Is there any other information I should provide?
Did you level the bed? A slight Angle is enough to prevent good printing. How old is your resin and what's the brand as well as the expiration date? The stuff can go bad and some brands do need longer exposure times than others.
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11741 | Conductive materials quality
I was considering the possibility to 3D print some capacitors with various forms and shapes in order to test them. I need to be able to print both the non-conductive and the conductive materials at the same time so I have the following questions:
I suppose that since I need to do multi-material printing, i will have to stick with FDM. Is that correct?
I have seen that there are some PLA materials that are mixed with dust of metals and become conductive themselves. Do they become also capacitive? Are there any better options for a conductive material in a multi-material scenario?
This might be a better fit over on EE.SE; Someone can likely answer the printability questions here, but the capacitive properties of the materials is a little beyond the average "maker".
Even if you succeed in printing without any shorts, you are going to have horrible reproducibility problems. Further, I doubt most PLA/ABS/whatever materials have a dielectric constant of any useable value.
There is Proto-Pasta's Conductive filament... no experience with it but you should use a 2-extruder setup, which contains "conductive carbon black", a form of very finely powdered graphite. https://www.proto-pasta.com/pages/conductive-pla
in the end i bought the Proto pasta conductive filament, and measured it. resistivity is what is advertised (3KOhm/10cm). The filament has also capacitance. i printed 2 sheets 2cmx2cmx1mm and whith a piece of paper in between i measured 0.1nF
Someone has already studied this: study of electrical properties of 3D printed materials.
ABS: dielectric constant about 3.
PLA: 2.7-2.9.
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11817 | Stepper motors not working when connected to RAMPS 1.4
Stepper motors are not working when connected to RAMPS board in the X,Y,Z pins.
I used A4988 drivers and the Arduino board is an original version. I checked the input voltage to the RAMPS board, it's 12 V. The bed and the stepper motors are working fine. I tried replacing the driver, checking with another RAMPS board, replacing the SMPS nothing has worked. I checked the input voltage of the arduino both the 5 V and 3.3 V pins are working fine.
VM (12 / 24V) is present on the driver? VCC (3.3 / 5V) is present?
Enable is LOW, and you're supplying signals to STEP?
I'd like to know what PSU power wattage you are using. It needs to be at least 240W (12V x 20amps). Make sure to match the PSU and the board. Do not use 24V PSU with 12v board without 12v mosfet.
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11845 | New PETG spool from eSUN is making popping sound while extruding
I just bought new eSUN PETg filament. When I started to extrude it, I heard popping sound same as moisture boiling out of it. I don't expect new eSUN vaccum sealed filament having moisture content. Is there any problem with my e3d v6? Is it possible that due to old filament, moisture is residing inside my extruder assembly and new filament is carrying it while extruding?
My settings :
print temperature: 250 °C,
bed temperature: 80 °C,
retraction length: 6.5 mm,
retraction speed: 25 mm/s,
print speed: 10 mm/s,
layer height: 25 micron
What do I do in this case? Should I clean the extruder assembly?
10 mm/s print speed is very low, try with at least 50 mm/s.
Do you actually mean 25 micron (0.025 mm)? That's an extremely thin layer height and I doubt PETG's properties admit printing that fine even if your printer could manage. In my experience PETG likes thick layers.
Was the spool vacuum sealed before you opened it? Did you put it right from the box onto the printer or did it rest some time? How long did the sealed bag sit on the shelf?
How do you know it's new? might have sat in a warehouse for 5 years
Welcome to 3D Printing Stack Exchange! Nice first question, but you should still take the [tour] and read over the [FAQ] -- you'll get a little rep for doing it, at the least.
You should always dry new spools of nylon, PETG and flexibles in the oven. ABS and PLA likely not needed.
It really isn't reasonable to expect moisture to be inside of the extruder assembly; it would be the filament. Assuming there was moisture somewhere, the filament would not have time to absorb it in the short time it is inside of the extruder. Once it got to the hot block, any moisture would steam away and shouldn't give you that snapping sound; the moisture needs to be inside of the filament for that.
Because the filament is inside of a vacuum packed bag with a desiccant doesn't really mean anything if you think about it. The desiccants are typically inside of the spool hole and the plastic bag seals that chamber where the desiccant resides. The filament is on the other side of the spool and the desiccant can't really do anything beyond dry out that pocket of air that it is inside; the filament itself isn't really exposed to the desiccant.
If you can also imagine a balloon, do you know how the air/helium slowly leaks out of it after a few days until you're left with a sad pocket of air loosely contained in a bag of wrinkly rubber? You can imagine your bag that the filament came in as a balloon too, but instead of leaking air out, it is leaching moisture in. This of course takes a really long time and depends on the quality of plastic the bag is made of, its thickness, and the quality and properties of the material the filament is composed of. Because the desiccant isn't between the bag and the filament, as soon as moisture gets in the bag, it's likely it'll be immediately exposed to the filament.
When I first started 3D printing, I opened up a fresh spool of black ABS from ColorCubed. It was nicely vacuum packed and with a silica-gel packet, but after immediately opening it and putting it in my new printer and then printing with it, you could tell it was so saturated with moisture that you'd swear you could wring it out.
It is possible you got a shoddy spool, it is possible that you got a really old spool. I'd advise looking into some techniques to dry out the filament and going from there.
Welcome to the community, by the way!
The extruder can't hold much water and transport it to the melt zone. Filament can. The printer behaves like the filament is wet, so try drying it.
Try putting the filament in your electric oven at the lowest temperature (often 170 °F to 180 °F) for an hour and see if the behavior improves.
Keep the filament at a distance from (or shield it from) the heating elements.
Remember to keep a really close eye on it too if you're trying to dry it in an oven; I've seen other people who put their spools in the oven to try drying the filament and have the spool itself actually melt and ruin all of the filament, even at low temperatures.
250 °C is a bit hot for PETG - It's in the range, but on the hot side. Popping is usually due to moisture. I've had many new, vacuum sealed spools of filament have moisture in them. Try drying it.
I'd recommend a dehydrator rather than an oven; with PETG I wouldn't go over 150 °F.
The problem with an oven is the extreme radiant heat from the elements can (not always) melt or deform the spool or even fuse parts of the filament in the spool together.
eSun has had quality problems recently (mid 2020), when they switched from the screw together clear reels to the molded black reels. I got an unprintable roll of PLA that was wet and brittle, others reported similar issues. This is theorized to have coincided with them moving production to Vietnam.
Try to dry it, but if that doesn’t help, try a different brand. As far as your settings, I’ve printed a couple reels of the eSun PETG successfully at 235 °C, with 75 °C bed (though bed would have nothing to do with moisture). Agree 10 mm/s print speed is excruciatingly slow. 50 mm/s is typical for a Bowden setup.
I understand that you write that if it happened once, it could have happened in the past that they shipped filament with high moisture content. At the date of posting the question, January 2020, does this fall in the window of eSun has had quality problems recently? If not, you might want to add a time-frame to that for readers stumbling upon this question with these problems.
@Oscar I looked back when I got the bad PLA with the different packaging, I got the good esun April 2020, the bunk roll in October 2020, but I imagine the changeover of stock might have been gradual throughout 2020? There’s a bunch of complaints on the Amazon reviews, long time customers who were having problems after the move. Hope they can figure it out, the Shenzhen eSun was the best I’d used.
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11846 | AnyCubic Chiron shifting in Y axis
I have an AnyCubic Chiron, and sometimes the bed doesn't move correctly. This causes the prints to shift and ruins the print.
I've spent a lot of time watching it, and noticed that when this happens, the belt stops moving for a short period of time, and then a "thunk" and it continues printing, with the slight from when the bed wasn't moving.
I've captured a video that demonstrates this. You can see it get stuck about 22 seconds into the video.
It's a new machine, and printed fine for the first 5 or so prints, and then this problem started happening. Now almost every print fails.
Things I've checked:
Belt tension seems fine.
Belt is not slipping.
The bed moves smoothly back and forth, no binding, nothing in the way.
When it's failing, it doesn't seem to be because the head is stuck on the print.
The screws attaching the pulley to the shaft are tight.
The same G-code file that used to print successfully now fails, and not in the same spot every time. Doesn't seem to be related to what I'm printing.
I'm not sure where to go from here. Is this a bad stepper?
Welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! As you have looked into the mechanical aspects, the electronics are a big suspect in solving this issue. It looks as if it skips a whole lot of steps.
did you check for the possibility of the bed cable chain dragging somewhere, possibly from a piece that fell into the printer?
I did check for the cables getting stuck on something - nothing seems to be in the way. I can move the bed back and forth by pulling on the pulley belt by hand and it feels smooth.
The only thing that makes me suspect something mechanical is the little "thunk" when it starts moving again, like it got physically stuck and then unstuck. You can hear it on the video. Need a printer whisperer to tell me what that means. :)
I hear a thunk like that in 2 cases. 1) putting down first or second layer with insufficient clearance so extruder doesn't release any material & the filament advancer slips. 2) too much material released, making mounds or blobs which solidify high enough that the extruder tip runs into them next layer around. This can push the part and/or drivers off position
YOu may well have a high point on your bed there - see how your first layers aren't covering very well.
In the photo you can see it continues to drift even when it's extruding over nothing. Seems like that would rule out bed movement blocked by the head hitting the model or the bed?
AnyCubic Support suggested I swap two of the motor drivers (X and Y) and after I did that, the problem disappeared. I've had a half dozen good prints in a row now, no problems at all.
The drivers are inside the computer module - had to flip over the printer, take off the cover and pry out the top two modules and put them back in swapped. Not difficult, but probably worth getting advice from AnyCubic before going ahead and doing it yourself unless you're comfortable with this sort of thing.
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11847 | Why can't I use PLA with ABS in a dual extruding 3D printer?
I have a XYZ Da Vinci duo and I want to run water soluble PLA with ABS How can I do that?
PLA Is not water soluble, don't you mean PVA? Note PLA and ABS arre different materials requiring different temperatures.
First of all: PLA is not water soluable.
Second: You want the melting points of the plastics to be as close as possible. PLA is printed between 180 and 200 °C. ABS is printed at 220 to 240 °C.
PVA on the other hand is water soluable and is printed in the same temperature range as ABS.
The setup is dependant on your slicer: you need to select one extruder as being the support structure one, the other as the main body one. Then you assign the filaments to them. Without knowing your slicer, I can't asnwer this better.
PVA adheres well to PLA, Nylon and CPE; adhering to TPU and and ABS is experimental.
While OP surely didn't mean PLA, 215 is in normal range of usable temperatures for PLA and 220 is probably not going to go badly wrong. 180 IMO is not usable; extrusion rate will be highly limited and pressure dependent.
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11839 | print pausing during printing
I got a new CR-10S 3D printer (I received it at Christmas). It has been printing just fine until yesterday, I was doing a print and it randomly paused, it did not restart on its own, I had to restart the print, then the item finished just fine. I am printing today, a very small item, the printer now stopped 3 times. How can I fix this, or do I need to return it?
Hi Lori, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Printers sometimes stop if the stepper drivers get too hot. Is the cooling of the main board working, have cooling radiators fallen off from the stepper driver chips? Which slicer and version do you use?
Do note this has been asked multiple times; please look at this question, and specific questions for the CR-10: this one and this one.
Sound more like miniumum layer time.
@Trish Yes it does, but that is already in the answers of the linked question, I merely provided a different view. Another possibility is Cura version 4.1.
Does this answer your question? CR-10S Pro pausing and starting again
The cr10s has a filament run-out sensor. If the microswitch doesn't function properly, or you have issues with the wiring, the print pauses.
It would be great if you can write what the printer says when it stops.
I suggest you try printing other small objects. If that also stops then the printer itself has a problem. But if the printer prints other objects without stopping, then the one you want to print has bad gcode files. You also need to make sure to keep it up-to-date Cura. It would also be great if you can update your printer firmware. But other than that, problems could be heat problem, power problem, and other stuff; it would be great again if you can write the problem that says on the printer as it stops...
Just an off chance: you might somehow have pause instructions being set into the G-code without your being aware.
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11627 | Is there some 3D printing process that puts enamel layers on the 3D printed metal?
I would like to custom design and print a medal (sign of chivalry order). I know that I can make 3D design and 3D print it in metal, but are there 3D printing processes that put some layers of enamel in different colors? Possibly with gradual moves among the colors, something like roses in the Brazil Imperial Order of Roses https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Order_of_the_Rose#/media/File:Order_of_the_Rose.jpg ? Is it possible to 3D print structure like that?
As I am googling for such process, I have found that there is 3D ceramic printing process and that is very close to the enamel. There is also transparent color 3D printing attempts, so - feel that this may be possible. But I am new to this field and I would like to get some prima facie estimation of the possibility to print such order-like structure in (any) metal plus enamel/ceramic material.
I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because this seems to be a "shopping" question.
I updated my question - I found and put a bit worse picture of the sample order but it is from the wikipedia and not from the open sale offer. Hope, that now the close vote can be removed.
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11628 | Print copy of real life object, starting with .mpo file or files
I want to make a 3D printed copy of a real object. I have access to a Nintendo 3DS which is capable of making 3D .mpo files. Is there a straight-forward method to convert these into a 3D printable model?
.mpo are stereoscopic photo files, as far as I could discern.
That is correct. The Nintendo 3DS has a 2 lens camera to take the stereographs.
I've come close to what I want with a normal camera and photogrammetry software, but have not perfected my skill in it.
Do you have access to a DSLR camera?
Even a smartphone can be used for photogrammetry -- especially the last couple generations of iPhone with their lidar feature. There are a number of YouTube videos on doing your own 3D scanning, with the result that one made with a smartphone was about 95% as good as one made with a $20k dedicated 3D scanner.
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11646 | E3D V6 nozzle seized into heater block
The 0.4 mm brass nozzle in my Prusa i3 MK3 is worn out - the extrusion hole is visibly larger than the replacement nozzles I have to fit. So I’m trying to replace the nozzle.
Unfortunately the nozzle seems to be stuck in the heater block. So far I’ve tried:
Heating the hotend up to 285 °C, rotating the heater block slightly and trying to unscrew the nozzle with a wrench. (I exactly followed the Prusa YouTube video on changing nozzles).
Leaving the hotend at 285 °C for 15 minutes and trying again - I found some other reports online this had helped. However it made no difference in my case.
In an effort to try and remove the nozzle from the heaterblock, I’ve now accidentally bent the heatbreak, so I’m going to have to replace some or all of hotend. But I need to get the nozzle out, so I know which parts to order - if the nozzle breaks off in the heater block I’m definitely going to need a new heater block as well.
What else can I try to free a seized nozzle?
This is the original factory-fitted brass nozzle, and the hot-end was pre-assembled in the kit I received.
Make sure you're turning it the right way! If you're looking down at the extruder the nozzle unscrews CW, not CCW.
Good point - however I am definitely rotating the right direction - CW. This is where following videos is a great help.
Nozzle clogged with ABS can be soaked in acetone. Regarding whole heatblock, all electronics would need to be removed first. But maybe this idea is still of some use...
But to the point: if overheated PLA can change to black coal, then heating the setup up to 285 °C for long period seems to me like asking for trouble. Because all remainings sandwiched in the thread will change into obsidian, won't it?
So I bet it depends on material, and maybe there is some chemical solution for that?
Try to,
First, remove the heat block from the extruder/heat sink. Heat the hot end to ~ 230 'C. Then try to unscrew the nozzle while holding the heat block with a wrench or plier. Be extra careful with the heat block and with the plier.
If by force, then in limited set - I agree. I also like Trish's practice to use a small vise to hold the block.
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11684 | How Do I Speed up The BLTouch Auto Bed Leveling In TH3D's Unified Firmware?
I have just upgraded my board to TH3D's EZBoard Lite with their Unified Firmware (U2.R1.15) and whilst dialling in all the setting I have found that using the BlTouch each time to be frustrating because of the time it takes to complete the Auto Bed Leveling, however, I cannot find the settings to increase the speed as shown in Teaching Tech's video:
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 5, 25 }
is changed to
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 20, 25 }
and
#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed
is changed to
#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 100 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed
and
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
is changed to
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 10000
I am not quite sure which parts to change as the two builds are organised and worded differently.
In the online firmware configurator, it does list an option to speed up the probing of their own EZABL but says not to do so for the BLTouch in the manual configuration editor
// Super fast probing - VERY EXPERIMENTAL AND ONLY TESTED WITH EZABL PRO SENSORS
// Do NOT use with EZABL_FASTPROBE (comment out above) or BL Touch Sensors
//#define EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE
Would enabling this be the same as making the changes listed in Teaching Tech's video?
Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
X -> Y Problem:
The EZBoard seems to be supported by stock Marlin too, so that would probably be the easiest solution.
It is not advised to lower BLTOUCH_DELAY, there is time required for the deployment. Note that the sanity check should have warned you: "BLTOUCH_DELAY less than 200 is unsafe and is not supported."
I'm exactly at the same situation, trying to speed up bltouch through th3d firmware. Did you end up solving it? Did it work by enabling #define EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE?
No, I never found out how to do it because I'm not sure if EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE will work with the bl touch, I ended it up leaving it because speeding it up wasn't worth it enough to go through the hassle of fixing it if mucked everything up.
This has been changed in newer builds of Marlin.
Previous code:
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
Current code:
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/min) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_FEEDRATE (200*60) //define feedrate as a multiple of 60.
There are multiple ways to achieve this:
In G-code
You don't necessarily need to do that in firmware, TH3D is based on Marlin firmware and is just a monolithic implementation for most popular printers and boards that helps novice users to easily configure their printer, but in the meantime it hides other options from plain sight.
Being a derivative fro Marlin firmware, the bed leveling speed in between probes can also be easily set in G-code. G-code G29 has a speed parameter:
S : Set the XY travel speed between probe points (in units/min)
From below (TH3D firmware) can be seen that a value of 12000 mm/min will speed up and is generally safe to use.
In Marlin firmware
In Marlin firmware, the speed setting in between probes is found in Configuration.h:
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/min) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
In TH3D firmware
In TH3D firmware this speed is buried in the Configuration_backend.h:
#if ENABLED(PROBING_MOTORS_OFF)
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
#else
#if ENABLED(SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES) || ENABLED(TH3D_EZ300) || ENABLED(TIM_AM8)
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
#else
#if ENABLED(EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE)
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 16000
#else
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 12000
#endif
#endif
#endif
The speed is depending on setting of the PROBING_MOTORS_OFF in Configuration.h:
// This will disable the XYE motors during probing. Can be useful if you have stepper motors causing interference issues with the EZABL sensor.
#define PROBING_MOTORS_OFF
or depending on the speed settings for specific setting/sensors (ENABLED(SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES) || ENABLED(TH3D_EZ300) || ENABLED(TIM_AM8):
// If you have issues with your machine running the faster probe setting disable the #define EZABL_FASTPROBE below.
// DO NOTE: Most machines will work with the fast probe enabled. Use M48 to verify accuracy.
#define EZABL_FASTPROBE
// Superfast probing - Only works with the EZABL Pro Sensors
// DO NOTE: Not all machines will work with the fast probe enabled. Use M48 to verify accuracy and make sure the Z isn't binding with the high speeds.
//#define EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE
Basically, if you have not defined one of the following: PROBING_MOTORS_OFF, SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES, TH3D_EZ300 or TIM_AM8, the XY_PROBE_SPEED will default to a value of 4000 (depending of the definition of HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY) since the constant is not defined, see Conditionals_post.h):
#ifndef XY_PROBE_SPEED
#ifdef HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY
#else
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 4000
#endif
#endif
In Marlin you would simply change the value of the travel between probing speed whilst in TH3D you need to sort out if one of all those conditions are met. For advanced users with a slightly different printer setup, the TH3D software might be less optimal. Do note that forks of the Marlin firmware that are heavily modified always (like TH3D) lack behind the original sources; you are dependent on the implementation schedule of the fork maintainer. But, for people that have not modified their printer, have a limited knowledge of software (C/C++ development) and firmware flashing, or their modification falls in the supported options of TH3D, the monolithic TH3D might be very helpful!
Most probably, your setting is overruled later.
I dont know if you managed to solve this but if not I was facing the same issue and managed to do it just by searching all sketches for those parameters in Arduino IDE. They are not all in configuration.h like shown in the Teaching Tech video. Most of them are in configuration_backend.h and some in conditionals_LCD.h I used the values suggested in TT's video and it has speeded up levelling vastly.
p.s. I am using the most recent version of the TH3D unified firmware on a Creality CR-10 mini
Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Showing which constants you would need to change would help the OP, the current state of the answer still leaves the OP in the dark...
I was successfull in getting my ender 5 pro bltouch to work faster. I still have some tweaking to do, and I'm a noob. I did the following in configuration_backend.h:
I changed #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z 4 times 60 to 20 times 60:
#if ENABLED(EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE) && DISABLED(BLTOUCH)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (15*60)
#elif ENABLED(EZABL_FASTPROBE) && DISABLED(BLTOUCH)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (8*60)
#else
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (20*60)
#endif
XY probe speed looks good, didn't have to change:
#if ENABLED(PROBING_MOTORS_OFF)
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
#else
#if ENABLED(SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES) || ENABLED(TH3D_EZ300) || ENABLED(TIM_AM8)
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
#else
#if ENABLED(EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE)
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 16000
#else
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 12000
#endif
#endif
#endif
I commented (deactivated) this, so it probes only one time:
//#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2
I changed the folowing from 15, 10, 10:
#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5
#define Z_CLEARANCE_MULTI_PROBE 5
Hope this helps. Work in progress.
Andy
There's also the option to save the mesh so that you don't have to level each time you print.
First of all, using Cura or whatever you use to send commands, send:
M502; Reset to factory settings
M500; Saves (so that you may start with a clean slate)
G28; Home All
G29; Autolevel
After running your auto bed leveling, add
M500
And you're done.
P.S. don't forget to do this after bringing both extruder and bed up to temperature
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11662 | My 3D printer hotend always jams
I've just built my first 3D printer. It uses a Bowden setup.
When I try to print the extruder starts fine, but after a few seconds the extruder motor start skipping and the nozzle is jammed.
I tried a cold pull, but it didn't help. I removed the PTFE tube and tried to push the filament with my hand, it works but at the start I need the push harder but after it flows fine. But if I reinstall the Bowden setup, it works fine for a few minutes, but after a few seconds it starts again.
Note I am using silver PLA at 200-205 °C. I tried to raise the temperature to 215 °C, but it also jammed, and the filament what after I pushed out was black (it is a new hotend and I never used black filament before), like it was burned (if it is possible).
Welcome to 3dPrinting.SE! What temperature are you using at your extruder? What filament type (ie: PLA)?
I had a very similar problem with my printer, and it turned out that the bowden tube was not fully inserted into the hotend. The hotend is bored out to a very close fit to the tube. I had inserted it about a half inch, until it stopped, but it had only gone in to the top of the hotend.
After I inserted the bowden tube fully, my clogging issue stopped.
You can insert a toothpick or something and measure the depth, then mark the tube at the same measurement to ensure it gets fully inserted.
Extruder clogging is, at its root, a matter of too much backpressure at the hotend. There are a number of more specific causes, but it very simply comes down to the fact that the printer cannot feed the filament through the hotend as fast as the extruder is pushing it in.
Things to check, pretty much in the order they should be checked/performed for a brand-new printer:
Extruder stepper calibration. With new printers based on RepRap firmware (Enders, Prusas, pretty much any printer in the \$200-\$400 range these days), one of the first things you have to do after assembly is to calibrate your E-stepper (the motor that drives filament through the extruder). The printer is given commands based on millimeters of movement, including the feeding of filament, and it has to translate those into finite steps of the motors. If those steps don't actually move the extruder or the filament as much as expected, the printer will behave poorly, including clogging. E-stepper calibration is pretty easy, especially on Bowden extruders; you basically disconnect the Bowden tube at either end, load filament through the stepper, cut it off flush with the end of the tube or the coupling, then tell the printer to extrude 100 mm of filament. Cut it off flush again and measure, and if it's not 100 mm, look for a command beginning with M92 in your printer configuration (it can be in the settings of your actual printer or a configuration script in your slicer software that gets tacked on to the front of the G-code files generated for use with that printer), and adjust the value you see after the E in that command by multiplying it by 100, then dividing by the millimeters of filament actually extruded in the test. Rinse and repeat until the printer is feeding the amount of fil you tell it to.
Bed height/leveling. This may not sound like it has anything to do with extruder clogs, but in truth, if your extruder is too close to the print bed at any point during the first layer, it can very easily clog the extruder by not allowing enough material to flow out the nozzle to keep up with what's being fed in. Bed leveling is a key step in print prep, and every printer behaves best with subtle changes to the bed leveling procedure. My guess is that you need to re-level for a slightly higher "zero-Z" above the build plate. If you're using the sheet-of-paper method, either use a thicker piece of paper, or go for less friction as you pass the paper between the nozzle and build plate.
Nozzle diameter settings. The standard nozzle tip diameter is 0.4 mm, however there are others. Your slicer probably expects the standard diameter as a default, so if you're running a 0.3, 0.2 or 0.1 mm nozzle for finer detail, the slicer has to be told that so it can adjust the filament feed rate. Otherwise it'll be jamming up to 16 times as much filament into that hotend as it should be. This isn't likely to be your problem but it's something to check; most extruder nozzles these days have the tip diameter engraved or pressed into the side of the nozzle, and if yours is unlabeled, try heading to the local music store and buying a single 0.013" guitar string (typically sold as a high E for acoustics). If that wire end easily fits through the extruder nozzle, you have a 0.4 mm, if it does not, it's something smaller.
Extruder clog/obstruction. That guitar string I mentioned makes a really good extruder cleaner. Just feed it through the extruder tip and gently push it up through the hotend till it pops out the top of the extruder, then feed it back and forth a bit to "floss" the extruder tip, cleaning out any minor carbon buildup. If you can't feed the wire completely through the extruder body from either direction, that's probably your problem, and fixes range anywhere from a little more pressure with the wire, to a narrow drill bit carving out the obstruction, up to removing the entire heat block from the printer, putting it on or in something that won't burn, and blasting it with a soldering torch to burn out the obstruction, followed (after letting it cool) by a bath in some acetone to dissolve any remaining gunk.
Gunked-up extruder hobb. The toothed wheel attached to the extruder stepper is called the "hobb" (you may hear it called a gear, but it's really not one as it doesn't mesh with another gear). As the printer feeds filament, especially if you've had jamming problems, the hobb's teeth will fill with shavings from the filament it feeds through. This can cause the hobb to slip against the filament, which not only reduces the pressure of the filament being pushed through the extruder, it accelerates the accumulation of gunk on the hobb. A short blast of canned air is usually all you need to clean the hobb; if it still looks pretty caked up, a toothbrush will sort it out. While you're at it, check the idler to be sure it's still spinning freely.
Filament type/brand/age. You mentioned it's "silver PLA"; the silver stuff I have is actually a "silk PLA" product, that sheathes the PLA in a jacket of another plastic (often PET) for that high-gloss appearance. These kinds of filaments can be very temperamental, as can filaments with glitter or fiber aggregate in them (also common in metallic fil colors). You have to have the printer settings dialed in just right, and some of these products just don't work well at all in some printers. Try getting some very basic, brand-name PLA filament like Hatchbox, ColorFabb, MatterHackers, MakerBot, etc, in a good primary color (avoid black or white; the color saturation affects how easily the stuff extrudes at a given temp), no silk finish or other modification. If that prints well, the suspect becomes the silver fil.
Extruder temperature. You're printing at 200-205 °C, which is usually good, but if you're getting problems, the first thing to do with PLA is to try printing cooler, not hotter. Case in point, getting PLA too hot can cause it to fully melt and drizzle out (vacating the extruder and causing it to overheat the fil further up, jamming the melt tube), it can gum up (directly clogging the extruder nozzle), and it can carbonize (as you see it doing at 215). If you're already flirting with burning your PLA at 10 degrees hotter, you are probably running too hot. Try backing off to 195 or 190 and see if that helps any.
Very complete answer! Welcome to 3DPrinting.SE!
I set it all, but it did the same thing.
When it starts the print with the outer edge (brim) it prints with fast speed it works fine but, when it starts the actual object -20mm calibration cube- it prints slowly and nearly instantly the nozzle jammed, and the extruder can't feed the filament and start skipping.
@VLKI - It sounds like you are either using a variable print speed setting, or you have widely varying speed settings between line types. What these settings are called and how you can set them depend on the slicer software, but long story short you'll want to keep the extruder moving at as constant a speed as you can.
It is useful to diagnose your problem if you provide more information, specifically what material you are using and what temperature you are using on your hot end.
Even without the above information, it is likely that the hot end temperature is too low. At a low setting, the filament in the nozzle will soften, perhaps even melt as deeply as needed to be extruded, but as new filament is provided by the extruder motor, it also cools the heater block.
By increasing the temperature, you're ensuring there is sufficient thermal energy to handle the incoming cold material.
It would be useful to increase your nozzle temperature by 5°C for each test. Despite matching your controller's temperature to the manufacturer's specification, you can not be certain that the temperature at the nozzle and heat block are what you have programmed.
I use silver PLA with 200-205 C. I tried to raise the temperature to 215 C, but it also jammed, and the filament what after I pushed out was black( it is a new hotend and I never use black filament before), like it was burned (if it is possible).
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11710 | Altering the print bed temperature at different layers
I am using Cura for slicing, and OctoPrint for the actual printing.
On small pieces with roughly one square cm of surface area prints over about 6 mm have a risk of coming off at 60 °C.
In fact, I have had to use 71 °C so it stick properly. However, I don't want the print bed that hot all the time. I would like to try a different number of layers at different bed temperatures till I get it right.
Gradually, over the course of 1-3 mm, for the bed temperature to decrease back to 60 °C to save on electricity. Possibly even 50 °C as the layers get higher.
Cura only support the initial layer having a different temperature and that isn't enough.
Apparently you can have custom user events with OctoPrint, one of them being ZChange which is great.
{__currentZ}: the current Z position of the head if known, -1 if not available
I need on the ZChange event to check the __currentZ and execute anM140 with a temperature varying with layer height. Normally I would use a simple if command or etc., but how do I implement this here.
However, its seems you can execute a command or a G-code.
I can't seem to find any examples where I can test the Z height in layers or mm and execute a different temperature for different layers.
An additional problem is the increased temps cause the model to melt so that the opening is smaller nearest to the glass than most of the rest of the model.
I am height of the raft, which helps, but I am hoping for a compromise.
The print bed shouldn't need to be 70 °C for the whole vertical height of the model.
Any suggestions?
Did you try heating the bed to 70 then starting the print job with a file that has the heat bed at 50? By the time the first layer is done, the bed should have cooled back down to 50.
The actual problem you are facing is bed adhesion, the proposed solution (in your question) shouldn't be the preferred solution to get your parts to stick to the plate/glass as plastic shrinks as it cools down. Note that a 5 °C temperature drop after the first layer usually isn't a problem, but larger temperature differences or shutting off the heat completely will cause your parts to come off the glass.
Note that PLA requires a temperature of about 60 °C (for adhesion as this is close to the glass temperature where the plastic is soft; however, note that PLA can be printed on cold bed surfaces on suitable bed surfaces). The slate of glass is an insulator, so it is perfectly possible that you need to set the bed at a higher temperature to get 60 °C at the surface of the glass plate. When the lower layer deforms the bed temperature is too high.
As you are using Cura, there is a plugin available called TweakAtZ, nowadays this is a default plugin. How to use this is described in this anser (on question "How does one use a heat tower?"); instead of changing the hotend temperature you will need to modify the bed temperature instead (using M140).
To solve the actual problem, you need to prepare the glass by cleaning it properly, use a level bed with a correct initial nozzle to bed distance for Z=0 (usually thickness of a plain paper sheet A4/Letter) and an adhesive like hairspray, glue stick or a dedicated adhesion spray like 3DLAC or Dimafix. I'm using 3DLAC for several years (for PLA and PETG; Dimafix is supposed to be more sticky at higher temperatures, so for ABS for instance) and never had any problems with adhesion on properly levelled beds. See this answer for another user's experience.
An OctoPrint solution using event as you suggest is not recommended. This is the config.yaml, e.i. the configuration of the print server, not a print instance option file. Furthermore, there are yet no plugins that can handle additional code when the head reaches a certain (layer)height. This is pretty tricky if you use Z position detection when the head also can hop, such code should be inserted by the slicer instead.
Related to your question are the answers on question: "Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?".
You can manually edit the file. Look for the line that has the Z height of your choice, and insert the temp change g-code right above it.
Upgrade to a real slicer like Simplify3D with has an options to set a heater temp at different layers.
Preheat the bed before you print, then print with a bed temp set lower than the temp you preheated at. This will give the illusion of a temp change.
(I for one turn off my bed after the first layer, when I'm printing PLA. I also don't have proper cooling (at this time), my environment is humid (59.9%) and the ambient air temp is 31C.) - just for context
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11712 | Extruder temperature failure
I've never made solid prints since I purchased a TEVO Tarantula in December 2019, but since I'm totally new to this sport, I didn't realize I had an issue until after many failures. I kept upping extruder temperature and nothing seemed to change, parts printed but fell apart. Using a hand held temperature gauge to check bed and extruder (on the sensor screw), bed temperature was perfect, extruder only warm, stepping 10 degrees Celsius at a time (200, 210, 220, 230, 240, 250 °C) always resulted in 18.3 °C/65 °F
I looked for broken wires on extruder heat and sensor, but they were okay. TEVO support thinks it's a sensor problem, but it won't arrive for 1 month or more. I purchased a spare extruder from AliExpress when I bought the machine and replaced the complete unit but now I get an error E1 Heating Fail, Printer Halted.
Hi and welcome to 3DPrinting.SE!
What sort of extruder did you buy? Does it have a similar temperature sensor (PT-100 or an NTC resistor)? Note that some sensors have a different number (heat-up table) assigned in the firmware, you could have a wrong sensor. Have you tried to power the heater cartridge directly on the Power Supply Unit to see if it heats up at all? What I find strange is that it prints, but it is weak, filament cannot be extruded under 170 °C, so if it got extruded it got hot, possibly you've got thicker filament in the slicer than you have.
The first extruder unit appears to have an error the firmware can't detect, which is why TEVO thinks the issue with that extruder is the heat sensor. If the sensor's reading hot relative to actual temp, the block will be too cool to reliably extrude, while the printer won't think anything's wrong and won't try to heat the block more.
However, I'm surprised the extruder can push any amount of any type of fil through the nozzle at room temp, which makes me think there's also some user error here. Non-contact temp gauges like IR guns can be bad at accurately checking very localized temperature; I'd recheck the extruder at what the printer thinks is working temp, but use a contact thermometer like a multimeter with a thermocouple (the Extech MN35 is inexpensive and works well for most hobbyist uses).
The second extruder has a detectable error. Either the sensor is again faulty, but this time reading 0 V (which usually equates to 0 °C), or the heating element is faulty and can't warm the block. Either way, the printer can command as much extruder heat as it wants, the sensor never gets above room temp much less to operating temp, so the printer eventually gives up and tells you there's an extruder heating problem.
This printer-detected heating error is a little easier to troubleshoot because the printer can help you. If the hotend gets to working temp as measured externally, but the sensor reads well below it, the sensor is the problem. If the hotend does not heat, or heats very poorly (like only getting into the 150-ish range when trying to heat to 200), it's the heating element. Both the heater and sensor could be faulty, but the combination of two failures is less likely by simple probability, and it's easier to diagnose the sensor issue with a working heater, so if the heater's not heating, fix that first.
It's possible, even probable, that a combination of parts from the two extruders will give you a working hotend, however you have to know which parts are working, and those parts have to be separable (as in you can remove the needed part from one assembly and put it in the other without destroying the part or either assembly), which at this pricepoint is honestly not a guarantee. The info provided in the question isn't quite enough to say which pieces of each assembly should be combined to give you a working extruder head, but the above tests will tell you.
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11612 | Z-Axis raising and dropping substantially during print knocking print off
I've had my Creality Ender 3 Pro since October 2019. It was running like a dream until about a month ago. The Z-axis started knocking prints off the plate during printing. I've changed mats and worked on adhesion issues. I've switched to a glass plate and triple checked that it is level. I checked to see if it was binding but honestly I couldn't tell.
I'm at a loss of what to do to troubleshoot and fix the issue. Any suggestions?
It homes fine and manual controls work fine with no issues.
Can you explain what you mean by the "Z axis knocking prints off"? What part actually collides or moves in a manner that's unexpected/erroneous?
can you check if your Potal (X-Axis) is orthogonal to the vertical bars? knocking it off is a known issiue.
Did you ever find out what happened? Please add an answer if you did!
did you get an answer to this? I'm having the same issue and the z axis keeps dropping during prints at regular intervals above a certain height, as if it can't hold itself up (all screws seem to be right, and there's no binding it just isn't holding itself at the right height)?
Can you send a link to a short video of the problem occuring? It might be because of multiple factors but we will be able to identify if there's a video of it.
Possible reasons:
Z axis nut might be too tight. This would cause the nut to bind with the leadscrew and so the motor will not be able to lift the z-axis further while printing.
Not enough retraction. This would cause filament to ooze from the nozzle during travel moves and this filament would collide with the printed object, causing it to be knocked off. A possible solution for this would be to enable Z-hop in the slider, have the hop distance set to at least 1.5x the layer height you are currently printing with.
Too small of a contact area. This usually happens more often for tall prints. A solution would be to increase brim in the slicer settings (at least 10~15 lines) to increase the adhesion of the print and the bed.
Dirty nozzle. Old prints filament may be stuck on the outer face of the nozzle and might be catching onto the printed part while printing.
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11622 | Bowden setup keeps jamming between PTFE tube and heatsink
I keep getting a jam where the PTFE tube meets the top of the v6 hot end. I have the PTFE tube all the away in but for some reason it gets a bulge at that spot and will stop printing. It happens with or without retraction. Any ideas?
I am thinking you mean the middle of the cold end instead of the hot end; above the top of the heat break. Could you add a sketch? Sometimes chamfering the tube helps!
Do you have cooling fan for the e3d heatsink ?
Can you show a picture of your setup?
Filament sometimes get stuck on the rim of the PTFE tubes inside the heat sink. Josef Prusa from Prusa Research has published a document on how you should chamfer the PTFE tubes for his printers:
Maybe chamfering your tubes works for you too.
Thank you everyone for your help. Sorry I took so long to respond. I didn't get a notification of your responses. I'd like to to try this chamfer of the ptfe tube but this seems like a difficult thing to pull off accurately with a tiny round tube. Do you think a pencil sharpener would work?
@Hellrazor You can find printed objects on Thingiverse, if you are still able to print small parts; e.g. this.
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11591 | Ender 3 cracking magnetic bed
My first magnetic bed mat for my Ender 3 Pro is cracking underneath. On the top side there is a bubble in the middle which prevents any viable print. The layers are probably separating.
I am new to printing but have read many articles on hiccups to expect, fixes etc. I do understand these magnetic mats can break down. They're pretty cheap on Amazon (something like \$12 for a 2-pack). Not a huge deal. I've printed only about 1100g worth of filament over 30 prints. Despite their cheap price I don't feel I got a proper amount of mileage out of the mat.
I keep my bed at 60 °C and 215 °C for the filament. I'm pretty sure 60 °C is below the maximum temperature for this kind of bed. I am struggling to find articles on this issue.
What can I do to prolong the life of these mats? I have removed the mat (with its print) while the bed was still hot to remove items just as much as removing cold items. Am I supposed to wait until it's cold? The cracks I only assume are from flexing the mat. I'm not trying to fold it here. I do pull on the item as I'm curving the mat to break it free. I can't explain the bubble.
The bed deteriorated after my first large print which took 27 hours. Prior, longest print I had was about 5 hours, most prints 1-1.5 hours. Is this a factor?
My personal technique for removing prints (particularly larger prints) is not to flex the mat at all. Instead, I wait until it's cool and then work the spatula under an edge and move it under the model to basically peel it from the mat.
Smaller prints usually pop right off if I start with this technique from one end.
Surface area on the bed (for a single part) is most important to how much work is involved. For example, a raft or brim will greatly increase the surface area. The spatula is long enough that usually I can reach everywhere under the model so eventually it will pop free. I might have to work around the model a bit before it reaches this point.
I had quite a few Ender 3's with magnetic beds and I did start to notice the cracks on the underside with use. To stop the cracks from appearing so soon you should avoid excessive bending of the mat. Any time where you are bending the mat near 90°s or so is when you will start to cause those stress forces that cause the crackling you see.
However, I would like to point out that the bed is still quite usable and should not need to be replaced until it no longer adheres to the build plate firmly. I would also point out that most Ender 3's that I've dealt with needed to be upgraded to glass beds for superior flatness and consistent bed adhesion. I recommend upgrading if you do decide to spend money on ned beds.
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11540 | Smaller outer layer height?
I am printing minis and other very detailes stuff and I find that 0.04 mm layer height gives the best looking (smoothest) result. However it takes a long time, so I am looking for ways to speed it up. Is there any slicer which offers different layer heights for the outer perimiter? So you can print your model at 0.12 mm or so, but the outer layer gets printer first 3 times at 0.04 mm?
you can easily smooth the surface of ABS prints, which would be much faster. to answer your question, afaik, each entire plane must be printed as a single height.
@dandavis Acetone smoothing doesn’t work well for minis (faces and small details completely dissapear). And each plane only has to be printed as the same height to avoid the printer head colliding with previous lines, if you print the perimiter first in smaller heights and then the rest at normal height you don’t have that problem (It would be the same as printing perimiters first)
@BeaconofWierd I would open a feature request ticket on all Slic3r, Sli3r Prusa Edition and Cura github pages. That feature is not available as we speak in any slicing software I know of. Post a comment with the links to the tickets after you have done it, thanks.
@FarO Oh, apparently this was already a suggested feature Cura basically turned down :( https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/6322
"Good, Fast, Cheap. Pick any two" applies here, I fear
In Ultimaker Cura, unless you print a single perimeter outline and add extra wall infill support you are not going to have different outer perimeter layer heights.
However, Cura is able to reduce the printing time, E.g. you can have fine layers for the wall (all perimeters), and coarse layers for the infill. The option is called "Infill Layer Thickness":
Infill layer thickness
Since the layer height of the infill is not important for visual quality, you can use thicker layers on the infill to reduce the print time. When adjusting this setting, always make sure that it is a multiple of the layer height, otherwise Ultimaker Cura will round it up to a multiple of the layer height. This means that you can, for example, print with an infill thickness of 0.2 mm while the layer height is 0.1 mm. The printer will first print the walls for two layers, and then it will print one thicker infill layer.
Note that this is not a standard option, you need to put Cura in the "Custom" mode and filter/search for the option using the search bar. Below you'll find the upper right corner of the Cura Graphical User Interface where I searched for the option:
Note that there are 2 options, one for regular infill of your product and one for infill of the support structures.
An other department at work is working together with a start-up university company to 3D print PEEK molds (from pellets) using 2 nozzles/extruders (to create resin injection parts), one has a large nozzle, the other has a fine nozzle. They use their own developed slicer software to use the fine nozzle for the outer contours and the coarse nozzle for infill and support. It could be that they developed this because it was not available in commercial slicers. For the 2 most common free slicers, Cura and Slic3r, there is no option to have just the outer perimeter of different height than the inner perimeters. If you think of it, it is also pretty difficult to execute, you either get:
(which does not improve the quality of the product, it will make the outside more coarse) or you'll get gaps:
Note that both upper images do not include infill, only 1 outer and 3 inner perimeters. The image below is probably what is possible with Cura, so all perimeters the same; green is infill now:
@0scar That setting is very useful, however it’s not exactly what I am after. Infill is usually a minority of the print time, the majority is the outer walls (at least for many of my prints). I’m looking for a setting which allows you to adjust only the outer perimiter wall to a shorter height while keeping the other walls right next to the outer wall at an increased height.
@BeaconofWierd set 1 perimeter and 100% concentric infill
@Trish 100% infil will cause the print to take a lot longer than just having all walls at fine detail. It also wastes a lot of plastic.
@0scar oh, so there’s a start up working on this :D maybe we will see it in slicers next year then :)
Not what you want but may still be helpful.
PrusaSlicer allows the layer height to be varied along the Z-axis so that you can have more detail in bands where it is needed, and less where it is not.
Since infill is not your time consumer, you may not find the "combine infill every n layers" helpful.
Isn't this called adaptive layering or something? I think Cura has a similar feature.
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11564 | Fixing Z-Hop Stringing
I'm printing a model on my Ender 3 in Mika3D Silk PLA, which (just for reference, this is not atypical) has a stated temperature of 200 °C to 235 °C. I have used this filament before and found it works best for me around 200 °C, but was not the case with this print, and I'm wondering what else I can do to fix this issue.
I have retractions enabled, have lowered the printing temperature to 180 °C and decreased the feed rate significantly, to around 75 %. Both of these adjustments happened gradually, making sure there was no change in stringing between adjustments.
I do have rafts and Z hops enabled in Cura, as previous prints of this model were knocked off the base even after leveling the bed properly, and almost every time a "hop" is performed, some stringing occurs. Is there something I can do in my settings, etc, to fix this issue?
Here is an image of the problem.
Edit: did some extra research and increased my print speed and switched to a better testing model - same issue.
This is basically a stringing question, these have been asked and answered before, e.g. this answer. Good to see you tried several things like reducing temperature, you should explore the retraction length and retraction speed, increase travel speed and check for possible clogging by cleaning the nozzle.
Enable “wipe while retracting” will help.
@0scar: While it is a stringing question, the behavior of stringing with z-hop (and a constraint to leave z-hop enabled) differs quite a bit.
Stringing may depend on sub-optimal retraction settings: when retraction is fast and high enough, the string may be cut and disappear.
You may want to at least try to optimise retraction, at least to exclude that parameter.
There is a tool designed to properly tune retraction:
http://retractioncalibration.com/
What it does is print a tower with multiple retractions with increasing retraction distance around the perimeter. Along the Z axis the retraction speed is increased.
This tool does not include Z-hopping so stringing may be less visible, but at least you can easily visualise the optimal retraction settings. At that point if the optimal settings are much different from what you had, you may want to try your model again to see if it improved.
Cool calibration tower, not seen this before! Thanks for sharing!
What improved the stringing issue in my case was increase the amount of retraction on top of the temperature reduction.
After each change, I printed one of these parts (see image below), designed specifically for testing stringing.
Can you elaborate on the amount of increase?
Check http://retractioncalibration.com/
It's because the nozzle has nowhere to wipe itself, like when you don't use Z hop the nozzle wipes itself off in the inside of the print. When you have Z hop enabled the nozzle has nowhere to wipe the string off, which leaves a string when it goes over to the next print. This happens to me all the time.
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11559 | Ender 5 Printing Issues
I'm brand new to 3D printing. Just got me an Ender 5 Pro. After messing around for the last couple of days with bed leveling, I'm finally able to get consistent first level all thought I have to increase filament speed to 120 otherwise there are too many gaps in the base. Now I'm trying to work out issues printing this Calibration cube.
My corners are being rounded too much and therefore size of cube differs. 20.02-20.08 mm when checking middle or when including corners goes to 20.50.
When I printed a full-sized model of an owl, it looks like it has stitching on the back. And random bumps all over.
The bumps on the owl could also be your seam if it’s not overextrusion. I used to have that problem on a ton of my prints until I set the seam to sharpest corner or user defined. You can go to the Teaching Tech website to get some tips on how to fix some common problems or calibrate your printer. Good luck!
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13742 | Filament getting stuck after 1.5 hours of printing
Problem: After about 1.5 hours of printing on my modified Anet A8 the (converted to Bowden) extruder begins to make a clicking noise. The filament is not being pushed through the hotend (E3D V6, it is an all metal hotend, and the cooling is out of the box, the heat break is inserted with thermal paste) any more.
Done so far: I experienced, that if I were to retract the PLA 10 mm and then restart the print, it would run a print fine, but the it starts all over again. I already disassembled the complete head and clear out the nozzle.
Thoughts: I think it must have something to do with the slicing settings, because if I change the flow, I can cause the problem to occur earlier. The filament is also pretty cheap and has been exposed to air a year or so...
My Settings:
Layer Height: 0.2 mm
Infill: 40 %
Hotend Temperature: 190 °C
Build Plate Temperature: 45 °C
Diameter: 1.75 mm
Flow: 70 %
Retraction: true
Retract Speed: 100 mm/s
Retract Lenght: 3 mm
Print Speed: 60 mm/s
Travel Speed: 120 mm/s
This sounds like heat creep? (Although this is usually not recoverable by a large retraction...) One thing that bothers me is that the flow percentage is 70 %; how is that possible, a well tuned extruder should operate at a value of 100 %. Retraction speed default is usually a bit lower, e.g. 25 mm/s.
@0scar If I increase the flow to 100 % the extruder starts to constantly click after the first layers...
This sounds as if you haven't calibrated the new hotend? Do you use a different extruder? Is it able to provide enough force to push the filament through the Bowden tube? Never just change the flow modifier other than a few percent, if more is needed it hints to an incorrectly functioning extruder.
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13745 | How to add a proper fillet to corner of a cuboid in Fusion 360?
I am a total beginner to Fusion 360. I need to add a fillet. Look at the picture to get better idea.
There are probably many ways to do this, this method describes how I do this.
First you need to fillet the top, then you chamfer the edges.
Create a lid:
Fillet the corner edges:
Chamfer the lid edges:
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13761 | Issue with the new heating cartridge of my 3D printer
Recently I had an issue with my heating cartridge, and I decided to change it.
For my Anet A8, I needed a 12 V 40 W one. I ordered it but I received a 15 mm length instead of 20 mm length heater element, but as the characteristics where the same I thought that it should not be an issue!
When I finally tried it, it was not able to reach the commanded temperature. It's like 175 °C instead of 195 °C.
I don't understand why it's harder for the newer heating cartridge to reach the commanded temperature, is the length important even if it's the same power (12 V and 40 W) ?
Try to measure the resistance - does it have the expected 3-4 Ohms for a 40W 12V cartridge?
It might be the wrong cartridge
If it is 40 W then it shouldn't matter what length it is. Note that the heater cartridge just contains a Nickel-Chrome wire-resistor (see image below for the construction), this resistor gives its heat to the metallic shell, the length of that shell shouldn't matter, it usually contains heat free/colder zones at the tip and root. Even if it is a 30 W heater cartridge it should be able to get to temperature, it would just take longer.
If it is a 24 V, 40 W cartridge, operating at 12 V, then the effective power would be $40[V] \times \frac{12[V]^2}{24[V]^2}=10 [W]$. This might be too low to reach the temperature. It is best to check the resistance of the heater element with a multitester; it should be about 4 Ω for a 12 V heater cartridge and about 14 Ω for a 24 V heater cartridge.
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13727 | Can't create image to G-code software for CNC to process
For the last 3 months I have been working on a CNC drawing machine but to this day I can't get the algorithm for line detection so I came here.
I can't understand only one part and it is CAM the (image to G-code) so I'd be grateful if someone could help.
(I want to create my own software not use any modules)
If I understand correctly, you want to write software that parses an image to G-code rather than using available software. Maybe you should explain why.
If you slice an image, you will get gcode to create a lithophane. If you slice a 3D model, you will get gcode to create a replica of that model. What is your ultimate goal?
Generally, movement in a CNC, FDM-Printer, laser cutter, and Plotter has the XY plane decoupled from the Z-axis in most operations. As a result, the path in the XY plane is in 2D. But how to get to a path? Well, we have 2 variants:
Pixel
Most pictures store information as Pixels: each pixel on a grid has a color assigned to it. Scaling the picture does alter the grid size. These pictures are very hard to plot, unless you have your machine interpret each pixel of a given color as a specific movement operation. For example, each pixel of black color in a monochrome picture could be translated as a square-movement of a certain size, using the top-left corner of the square for the operation's reference. In G-code, drawing a line around the Pixel X=10 Y=10 with a grid size of 1 mm looks like this:
G90 ; absolute mode!
G1 X10 Y10
G1 X1 E1
G1 Y1 E1
G1 X-1 E1
G1 Y-1 E1
Vector
proper 2D-Pathes are stored only in Vector graphics. If you can, Vector graphics can contain the exact path you want your machine to follow. A typical format is .svg. It contains already the start position of path and how to follow it. Going from Vector Graphic to G-code just needs you to add G1 before each part of the path instruction and E commands at the end to operate whatever tool you due - be it spinning the drill in a CNC, extruding filament in a printer, turning on a laser or pushing down the printhead in a plotter.
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13795 | Pretty ugly surface remains after using support ramp. Are my slicer settings correct?
I'm printing a object with a pretty sizable overhang. And the results, after support removal, are pretty ugly.
Here is the print before support removal.
And here is the final product, sigh.
Finally here are my slic3r settings:
Generate Support Material: [✔]
Overhang threshold: 60°
Max Layer Count for Supports: 0 layers
Enforce Support for the First: 0 layers
Raft layers: 0 layers
Options for support material and raft
Contact Z distance: 0.2 mm (detachable)
Pattern: pillars
Pattern spacing: 2.5 mm
Pattern angle: 0°
Interface Layers: 3 layers
Interface pattern spacing: 2 mm
Support on Build Plate Only: [✔]
Don't support bridges: [ ]
The material I'm using is ABS, 230 °C temperature setting. Layers, Adaptive Slicing, Adaptive quality: 75 %, Match horizontal surfaces. Vertical shells, 3 perimeters minimum. Horizontal shells, solid layers: top: 3, bottom 3.
Is there a way to improve this?
Note: for anybody interested... these are small disposable spatulas used to place bondo mix onto a flat surface at the bottom of a restricted space, to fill small holes in wood. Its too tight in there to use a normal putty knife.
Some more print settings
Included here are the speed settings from Slic3r:
G-code analysis
I'm wondering why there is such a large gap between the gold colored E shaped interface to the blue spatula handle? And that makes me wonder, what support material and raft settings should I be using? Why is that gap so big? (And I have to go back into SolidWorks and check, but I'm nearly certain that handle is 2 mm wide. That gap to the support is really big.)
It appears as if the support is just too far away, and then the bridging fails as of the high print temperature and minimal amount of cooling. This prints much easier in PLA.
Judging from the print quality of support material (very "fat") and of top surfaces (which look with ripples and a lot of material), you have at least 3% overxtrusion, which will result also in stronger connection between support and print, and more difficult removal, lower quality parts.
I would reduce extrusion by 3%, to start, and see if it goes better. In your case you can tolerate underextrusion, since the part is likely not stressed significantly, so in doubt reduce it even more.
You can also print this test part to check optimal extrusion.
Also, remember that extrusion is (almost always) dependent on speed: if you get perfect extrusion at 60 mm/s, infill at 80 mm/s will be slightly underextruded and outer perimeters (30 mm/s) will be overextruded. In general, set everything to the same speed.
I'm not terribly familiar with slic3r, but it looks like you have a setting (possibly a default one) to slow down on printing overhangs. This was a popular "feature" in slicing software (Cura has it I know) but it's exactly the opposite of what you should be doing. When slowing down to print an overhang, the pressure in the nozzle forces the material to keep coming out at the same rate it was coming out until it subsides, and you end up with a big hanging glob of ooze like in your photo.
If your printer firmware has linear-advance/pressure-advance functionality, this can mostly be eliminated. But if not (most stock firmware), you need to maintain full speed on overhangs, and might even need to turn up your acceleration limits so that you don't get a significant slowdown just by decelerating to go around the corner.
I see your words written here, but I don't understand what you are talking about. "Slow down on printing overhangs" ? Where is that set? You mentioned Cura, does that mean Slic3r has a similar setting (and fix)? Then you jump to firmware. I'm using Slic3r --> Printer Settings --> General --> Firmware, G-Code Flavor: Sailfish Makerbot Can that setting be corrected in Sailfish? many thx.
Hmm, I thought slic3r had an option like this but I can't find documentation on it. Can you open up your gcode in a viewer that shows speeds and see if it's using a lower speed for the overhang? If not, it may be just an acceleration issue.
I'm trying. Based on your comments I created vebose G-Code. I'm playing with https://ncviewer.com/ but there is too much stuff in the way to see the specific g codes at the interface between the overhang on the desired part and the support. Note, I do see varying F codes (which I believe affects the speed of the head) and E codes (extrude commands) Do you have a suggested G-Code analysis system that would make this easier? Hmmm. Let me add my GCode to the problem statement. oops. no go on file upload, sigh.
@zipzit: I like https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/ and http://gcode.ws/
See edit #2. I'm wondering if print speed really is a root cause here.
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13854 | Do you need to manually level the bed with a BLTouch? Adhesion issues with Ender 5 and BLTouch 1.3
I've just installed a BLTouch on my Ender 5 Pro and updated the firmware to 2.0.5.3 and enabled BL touch. I can send a G29 which probes all the points correctly, I also get a readout of the results in OctoPrint terminal but when it puts a first layer down the filament does not adhere to the bed. I also end up with a large clump on filament stuck to my nozzle afterwards.
I've set the Z probe offset while the nozzle was in the center of the bed, and had a good grip on the piece of paper under it while setting it. I stored settings afterwards. I can't actually tell if the BL touch is even doing anything.
Do I need to manually level the bed before using the printer with a BLTouch? It currently has not been leveled since I assembled the printer. I guessed the BLTouch would handle this for me and I wouldn't need to level the bed ever?
These were the results from my G29:
-0.218, -0.148, -0.116, -0.088, -0.084
-0.194, -0.136, -0.115, -0.061, -0.020
-0.138, -0.035, +0.030, +0.091, +0.107
-0.008, +0.062, +0.129, +0.191, +0.261
+0.160, +0.261, +0.339, +0.411, +0.469
Bed leveling it not magic, you still need to level the bed out as good as you can.
yes
Even with auto mesh bed leveling, you ought and should level the bed to a good degree to make the leveling not only more efficient: the mesh bed level is to work out small dimples and hills in the bed, bot to work with a crooked or heavily misaligned bed.
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13855 | Print from card not showing on new SKR mini e3 v1.2 card
I am a newbie with a 3 months old Ender 3 Pro, my first one. I purchased, installed and loaded a new SKR Mini E3 V1.2 mobo. The LCD panel lit up as usual without problems. I selected 'print from card' which showed the micro SD card had 2 files, FIRMWARE and test, as I recall. Then I put the SD card into a micro-SD to SD card adapter, which I hoped to use, and plugged it into the card slot but it didn't work. I fiddled with it a little, then removed the adapter and discarded it. I then removed the card and copied it onto my PC for safekeeping. I also added 2 short, simple .gcode files to check out the printer. I put it back into the printer and turned it on. The panel came on listing several entries but Prepare, Control and Print from Card were missing. I opened and scrolled each item, even clicking on 'Initiate EEPROM' but without success. I plugged and re-plugged the SD card, restarted the printer several times with no luck. Put the SD card back into the PC and both original files plus the 2 .gcode files I added were still there. This exhausts my meager knowledge of things to do and I surely hope someone can help me out!
Welcome to 3dPrinting.SE! Did you unmount the card before you pulled it from the printer?
Thank you Paulster2. No, I don't think so--there is no entry I remember that says something like "unmount card'. With the stock E3 board, there was an entry to the effect of "replace sd card', but not on the SDK board. I am still trying to master 3D print terminology, which works to my great disadvantage and I apologize
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13876 | How can I extend silicon hotbed wires safely?
I'm in the middle of building a D-Bot printer, and have run into a bit of an issue when it comes to the heat bed wires. The heated bed is an aluminum plate with a silicon heater attached to it, and the heater wires are not long enough to make it through the drag chain when the Z-axis is fully extended.
The silicon pad is 120 V AC / 750 W and will be turned on/off by a Fotek SSR. The heater wires are cloth-covered and are probably 22-24 AWG. (Gauge is not labelled)
I suspect I'll need to extend the wires by putting in some sort of coupler at the top of the drag chain, but I'm not certain if there are specific requirements for the wires for an AC powered heat bed.
To this end, I was wondering:
Is there a specific wire gauge that I should use for the heater wires, and should it have a specific cladding?
What type of connector would be best for connecting the wires together securely in this case?
Thanks in advance!
Remember to set your firmware to operate that SSR either in bang-bang mode, or with a PWM frequency lower than 5 Hz if you use PID control. SSR often operate at zero-crossing, therefore you can toggle switch them up to 120 times a second. With 5 Hz PWM the resolution of the power setting would be 120/5=24 power steps.
Actually half that value, since you have to toggle them back: 5 Hz = 12 power levels
Would it be possible to completely replace the wires? You don't really want a soldered or crimped joint in the part which is subject to repeated flexing in the drag chain if you can avoid it.
750 W at 120 V is 6.3 A. 22-24 AWG is on the thin side for this. I would recommend 18 AWG or thicker. You don't need a specific style of insulation for this (other than something that is rated for the voltage and temperature the wire will need to withstand, but most commonly found wire should be good).
A good way of connecting the wires would be to solder them. If you do not want to solder, there are many products on the market for connecting wires. A butt connector that you crimp could be a good option, or you could use a WAGO clamp. Whatever option you end up using, be sure to provide adequate strain relief as the connection point (be it soldered or with a connector) is more likely to fail from fatigue.
Comparing the wire with a 20 G wire, the core seems about the same size, so I might actually be OK there. (I don't have any 18 gauge wire handy right now for comparison). Would a 1-2" length of 20 G wire pose a problem? (I suspect it'll still be a bottleneck, but maybe if I minimize the length before going to a larger gauge, it won't be as bad. Unfortunately, I''m not certain I can get at the contacts in the pad without destroying it.)
750 W at 120 V is around 6.3 A.
You can use a voltage drop calculator to find out how much power is lost in the wires, and therefore their temperature increase.
I did it for you. With 10 feet (2x5 feet) 20AWG wire and 6 A current, 7 W are dissipated on the wires.
It's 0.7 W/foot which is ok for silicone wires, also because the bed doesn't operate at 100% except for the initial heating up (and then the heat goes to the air around, which is fine anyway).
If you use another website, you can see that 20 AWG with 6 A current produces, in free air, around 10 degrees temperature increase. Silicone insulation will worsen that, but silicone holds well over 100 °C...
Use thicker wires if you can, or go on if you cannot.
The most important thing is to very effectively join the two, so that no extra resistance is introduced. I would place them next to each other and physically solder them. Then heat shrink tube around the joint.
See for info what not to use for the joining
Using a soldered connection that uses a low temperature solder in a device that has both a heated bed in the vicinity and could have a repetitive movement applied to it makes a bit hesitant to recommend that for this application. Even if that movement is only vibration. Solder does not play well with even the slightest repetitive flexing. I would recommend a normal butt connector is used over a self soldering version for this application.
To add to the answers here, use a finely stranded wire for the bed. It does better with being constantly flexed. Finely stranded wire is hard to source, except it is usually what is used for wall warts/AC adapters. They come in the heavier gauge you want, just check the writing on the wire.
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19892 | New Ender 3 E-steps off by 367?
I usually see Ender 3's set at 93 for the E-steps which is still too low, and require adjusting to around 99 steps/mm, but a brand new Ender 3 (base model), running 1.1.6.2 firmware, was extruding at approximately 20 % when doing a calibration test.
It wasn't until I set the E-steps to 460 steps/mm that it extruded correctly.
The test file is the same file I use for all Ender 3's so I know there were no slicing errors to blame (flow, etc).
I swapped extruder motors with a working printer to rule out the motor and ensured there was no nozzle clog. It was not the wrong motor (I know the Z motor is set to 400 for example, but this was not a Z motor, it was the proper E motor) and the 20 % extrusion was consistent with the swapped motor.
Clearly, it came from the factory like this. But this is the highest adjustment I have ever heard of.
Has anyone experienced this before?
a brand new Ender 3 (base model), running 1.1.6.2 firmware, was extruding at approximately 20% when doing a calibration test.
This doesn't mean the esteps are wrong. There is no physically possible way the actually-needed esteps value can be off by more than a few percent from the nominal value of 93, which is linked to the motor step size and extruder gear diameter.
If you're only getting 20% of the desired extrusion, your extruder is broken (likely the tension arm is physically broken or the spring is missing or incorrectly installed or of the wrong length) or you have some sort of blockage in the hotend causing the extruder to slip.
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19885 | Ender 3 pro Bed won't heat over 85 °C and gives E1 error
We have a brand new 3 month old Ender 3 Pro and we want to print ABS, but, unfortunately the printer trips and gives error E1.
We limited the error to the bed: since when we heat up bed it gets stuck on 85 °C for while and suddenly through the E1 Error. It seems the bed won't heat up over 85 °C.
What is the actual message, is it E1 Heating Failed? If so, E1 is indicating that the hotend heating failed, not the bed!
@OscarI am getting Heating Failed: E1, Print Halted. The reason I is because I preheat nozzle by it self and I did not get any error, but when Pre heat the bed by it self I am getting E1 error.
Heating the bed and hotend is not related, unless your PSU is delivering insufficient power, e.g. when in incorrect mode (115 or 230 V). Please describe in more detail the steps you did, how hot the bed is set, how hot the hotend and when they are heating. E.g. through G-code, or the steps you did manually, please do this by [edit].
Be careful printing ABS indoors, a lot of VOCs are released which are bad for your lungs. Also temps above 240C can cause the Teflon lining in thr ender 3 to release toxic fumes. The bed error is probably due to not enough power in the bed and losing heat to environment too quickly. Closed build chamber will help
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19927 | Flashforge Adventurer 3, filament problem
I have just bought my son a used Flashforge Adventurer 3 and the man who sold it to me said he had a bit of trouble with the filament starting to come out before it touches the print bed but if you just grab the filament with a pair of tweezers right before it hits the bed it prints fine.
Does anyone have a way to fix the problem I'm a 3D printing virgin and it is being delivered today so I don't want it to be a problem for my boy.
Are you referring to the oozing or priming prior to the laying down the first layer?
Most printers ooze material when heating up (no extruder rotation). Usually this is related to the left over amount of filament left in the nozzle/heat break. Tweezers are effective to remove the oozed material. This can also be deliberate, then it is called priming (extruder rotates).
You can retract filament after printing your product (in your end G-code script), this will reduce the amount of material it oozes during warm-up of the next print. If it is part of the priming, you could improve your start G-code to optimize priming (different location and height). Furthermore, you can also swipe at the beginning (adapting start G-code in your slicer).
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19865 | Figuring out differences between Creality Printers
I am thinking of getting a 3D printer for general tinkering and as I've very interested in the MicroscoPy project. The printer mentioned in the project is "Creality Ender 3 Pro printer with a metal extruder and a BLTouch auto bed-leveling sensor", which when I looked was out of stock. However, it's not clear to me that I need to get this particular printer. My understanding is that Creality makes decent printers for the beginner so I was focusing on those (other suggestions welcome). I wanted to stay at \$200−\$300. I'm having a heck of a time figuring out the differences between different models. A simple comparison spreadsheet seems hard to find. I've seen this at various sites
Creality3d Upgraded Ender-3 V2
Creality Ender-3 S1 3D
Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro
Creality Ender-3 Pro
Part of the problem is that I think different sites (Amazon, Creality) use slightly different names. For example, the last two printers I listed might be the same printer.
I realize any information given here will be quickly out of date as new models are introduced, but perhaps links to comparison sites or review sites would serve a larger audience. Or perhaps even documents on how a newbie to 3D printing can get started.
Again, my end goal is the project I mentioned. I'd like to get a printer that is as least as good as what he's using (feature-wise): "Creality Ender 3 Pro printer with a metal extruder and a BLTouch auto bed-leveling sensor"
I would suggest going to the official Creality website because, as you pointed out, different sites will use different wording. Be aware that Creality has different series of printers (Ender 2, 3, 5, 6; CR 6, 10, 30) and different variations within that series (Pro, Plus, Max, Neo, V2). This is probably the main cause of your confusion.
Also, not all iterations are numbered: there are at least half a dozen different Ender 3 without any extras that differ by production months.
Don't look at the typical auction and Eastern webshop sites (as these are flooded with clones and different versions) and go directly to the official Creality website and browse the printers there. Order your printer at a respectable seller nearby or from a trustworthy online printer store in your country. I'd probably vote to close this question as this is close to a recommendation question which are not allowed and summing up all the differences is something you could do yourself by using their official website.
Thank you all. I'm focusing on Ender-3 V2 and Ender 3 Pro, both about the same price. Still trying to figure out the differences....
Most of that project uses Lego. The rotary table and gears would be the most demanding 3DP parts. For that project, any perceived benefits of the bed leveling and metal extruder over the normal models might be offset by the learning curve required to take advantage of those upgrades.
@DaveX Yes, it's quite an involved and expensive project. The legos alone are over $50. But if it's fun and I learn a lot, it's worthwhile. I've been thinking of a 3-D printer for some time but put it off due to thinking "what's the practical use?". This project provides a practical use. Thanks for the info on bed leveling and metal extruder. I was coming to the same conclusion on bed leveling. I'll have to research what are the pros of a metal extruder!
@Dave -- for tech stuff, I like deciding on the budget first, and then getting the best you can get for that budget. If you are looking for an opinion, then https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yFd4Df6Sow talks about the differences and costs.
I'd like to get a printer that is as least as good as what he's using (feature-wise):
Then you need to modify one yourself, a basic Ender 3 could be the base machine. But the all metal hotend and auto bed-levelling are not stock for it or the Ender 3 pro. They're addons of dubious value which need to be purchased and installed.
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19908 | Is my stepper motor driver to blame?
I have a Mooz-2 3D printer from dobot (an obscure chinese brand) that I got from kickstarter. I've done numerous upgrades over the years, including a full-metal hotend, dual z-axis and a custom power supply. However, keeping the printer operational feels a bit like a game of technological whack-a-mole. Almost as soon as I'm done fixing one part of the printer that doesn't work, a new problem appears.
Currently, after I fixed a problem with a shorted limit switch, the y-axis of the printer no longer functions properly. It appears almost as if the limit switch is shorted; it only moves down when plugged into the y-axis port, but works fine in any other axis's port. The other axes exhibit the same problem when plugged into the y-axis port. I've tried re-installing the firmware to no avail.
I contacted the company and they offered to sell me a new mainboard for $220 shipping, which is ridiculous b/c the printer only cost \$300 originally, and the rest of the mainboard works fine.
I know that it's very difficult to troubleshoot online, so this is what I ask: Could the stepper motor driver be causing this issue? It's the only part of the mainboard I can figure out how to replace. Can it cause issues like this? If I can't fix this I'll have to replace the entire printer, as the mainboard and firmware are proprietary.
Comments and suggestions are welcome! I'm a bit desperate here, so I'd appreciate anything that might help.
Is it moving away from the end stop? Have you connected the board to Pronterface (or something similar) over USB and send the M119 command?
@0scar, it only moves away from the end-stop. I don't have access to pronterface, but after continuity testing the pins on the ports for the axes on the controller board, the two pins for the y-axis (and sadly, now the x-axis as well) appear to be shorted to one another. Now both axes exhibit behavior indicating a faulty limit switch when a motor is plugged into the, but work fine when plugged into the z-axis port.
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19775 | Prevent postion from reset to 0.0.0 when serial goes offline
My hardware Arduino Mega with RAMPS 1.6 with Marlin 1.0.2 and powered by external power to prevent my board from losing memory, when I reconnect the USB and serial goes offline, the board set last position e.g 10,0,0 to 0,0,0 as x,y,z
How to prevent last position from reset ?
Easy answer is to not reconnect the USB, maybe you need to explain why you reconnect.
The problem not with marlin,
The board is reset by the Serial port DTR line going low and pulsing the Arduino reset pin,
You can prevent this if you can disable DTR on your PC or by removing the capacitor that connects the DTR Serial pin to the reset pin.
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19776 | Dremel 3D45 does not honor temperature settings
I set:
G-code override: false
filament: PETG
nozzle temperature: 245 °C
Here the pictures that state the above points:
When loading the model, it also confirms the nozzle temperature of 245 °C:
But when running, it uses another temperature (230 °C) that is even different of what the G-code contains:
Why? What is my mistake?
If the "prioritize G-code" flag is on, the machine would follow the M104 and M109 commands contained in the G-code. If true, the machine uses the default filament settings as per the above image.
Try using your own gcode, printing a single line or simply moving on x and y btw different nozzle temp, and see what happens.I would try this. Check if Cura doesn't add some post-processing code too, sometimes we forgot to remove/disable them.
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19823 | Ender 3 v2 - Filament clog before nozzle
The filament "swells" up to the inner diameter of the feeding pipe, from the nozzle to about the end of the heat-sink. This happens after a few hours of printing. It happened using a new nozzle (0.2 mm) and a new tube - the same clog is the reason why I changed both. When this happens, the filament can't be pulled from the tube - I had to cut it open on the end to remove the filament, thus shortening the tube with each clog. The nozzle had no filament in it when I removed it and isn't clogged up.
When installing the nozzle and tube, I first screw in the nozzle, heat it up and torque it a bit, then I slide the tube in all the way.
What kind of pipe and filament are you using? I am not sure about the core issue but regarding the tube cutting: caution about a too short tube length after some cutting repetitions. Also something like this cutting guide can help to get a nice orthogonal cut.
I found the issue. The fan, blowing on the heat sink is busy packing up. It must have stopped during a print (or not start at all). I now check that it is turning when the print starts (and check on it from time to time). I'll have to wait for stock to come in before I can replace it.
If not enough cooling on the cold end, the issue called "heat creep" kicks in. This is an excellent example of heat creep, thanks for answering your own question. Sorry to have missed your question, you would have gotten an answer sooner! :-) All-metal heat breaks are notorious for causing this issue.
Yes your description is related to heat creep (https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629/what-are-ways-to-avoid-heat-creep). Looking at your question, I was going to suggest increasing the cooling of the heat sink to give a higher temperature gradient. Your solution is consistent with that.
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19828 | PETG Benchy boogers and stringing
The Benchy looks good for the most part except for some boogers on the chimney
And some stringing on the bow, near the front deck.
Here are my settings. On another roll of Inland PETG, I printed a Benchy at 30 mm/s and it came out perfect. Is there any way to improve my results at higher speeds? Maybe 4 or 5 for retraction and/or faster retraction speeds? I figure I ask before taking shots in the dark. I was told to not go below 235 °C for PETG so that seems like lowering the temperature is out of the question.
Any ideas? Below are my settings.
The printer is a Sovol Sv01 Pro (this is similar to an Ender 3 S1)
direct drive extruder
Creality silent board
CR Touch
Marlin 2.0
hot end like and Ender 3 Pro with an MK8
PEI sheet
K value 2.0 - this was the factory setting
All the parts are pretty new since I bought the printer on an Amazon Prime day about a month ago.
Settings (using Inland PETG - Yellow):
a few days ago it had a 6hr session in a filament dryer
235 °C nozzle
70 °C bed
retraction 3.0 mm
print speed 40 mm/s
print acceleration 500 mm/s
jerk 12 mm/s
Is power loss recovery enabled? It will make blobs on each layer of your print (whether they're noticable varies by the geometry and slicing) by pausing to write status to the SD card on the first extrusion move of each layer. The extent of the blobbing will vary by how much the material oozes while dwelling and whether the material remelts when the nozzle sits in place on top of it.
What printer is this, is it a Sovol Sv01 Pro, or an Ender 3? Sovol is in the question, Ender in the tags.
@Oscar sorry that was a mistake.
It is based on an ATMEGA chip, which may struggle with high CPU load.
The blobs can be likely avoided by reducing complexity of the model when slicing, see video
If this is the Sovol Sv01 Pro printer, it uses a 32-bit Creality 4.2.2 board, that is not an ATMega board.
It's a sovol but it's using the Creality Silent board.
While you did use a dryer, the bumps on the surface look like moisture bubbles. I've found it difficult to completely dry out PETG once it gains moisture, although drying is a great improvement. Going straight from the filament dry pack to a dryer that feeds filament straight to the printer has done the best.
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19833 | Layer above support is very rough
I'm attaching a picture to show my issue. I'm hoping might be an easy settings fix, or at least maybe someone has a couple suggestions I can try. I'm using an Ender 3, and the program Cura. The print on the left was printed with the opening facing up. The print on the right with the hole facing down. The support leaves a rough surface. Any suggestions for support settings would be appreciated.
There's only so much you can do about this without a multi-material printer that can utilize dissolvable material or material that doesn't bond to the print material, and print the supports at zero distance from the model. So expect it to be ugly. But not quite that ugly.
Slicers, including Cura, have options to control the Z distance between the support material and your model, among other things. Reducing this will make it harder to remove the supports, but will give a better bottom surface. It only really works on whole-layer granularity in Cura (while some other slicers let you do arbitrary distances), and really should always be equal to one layer. A distance of two or more layers will give really bad results, which might be what you're seeing.
Also, Cura has an option called "support interface", which you want on. This prints a flat top surface on top of the support, below your print, so that all the lines of the print have something they're resting on. Without this, the bottom surface over the support will sag down between the lines of the support and look very bad - or, if it's a small detail, it might sink entirely between lines of the support and effectively not be supported at all!
Finally, one hack you can try if you don't have a multi-material printer but want to try printing supports at zero distance from your model: set support Z distance to zero and use a slicer plugin to pause-at-height just past the top surface of the support. Then, when the printer pauses, paint a release agent that won't bond to the print material on top of the support. Reportedly Sharpie permanent markers work as such a release agent, but I haven't tried this, and there are probably better choices.
Thank you for the response. Not new to 3d, but new to printing on my own. The ender 3 was from my cousin, and it definitely has given me a lot to think about when I purchase another. I'll try adjusting those settings.
Interesting about the sharpie as release agent. Idea: paint PVA glue, like Elmer's as the release agent, then dissolve it in water later. Similar to printing dissolveable support with PVA filament.
You cannot print into the air (hot filament will sag when not supported). Do remember that even with support enabled, you are printing into air. This is because there is always a gap between the print object and the support structure, the option is called Z distance. If there wasn't a gap, the print object will fuse to the support structure. You may want to increase fan cooling or decrease the Z distance between support and print object to get better print results, but, print orientation is also important, sometimes placing an object under an angle works. In the example you provided, it is clear that it is better printed upright (unless there is a recess at the other side).
From experience, to increase the surface above the support structure, having the option Enable support interface enabled will add a dense surface on top of the support structure. This surface, in conjunction with the correct gap and cooling when dialed in correctly will provide better surfaces above support structures.
Z distance (in Ultimaker Cura)
This refers to the distance from the top and bottom of the support structure relative to the model. This setting is divided into the top distance and bottom distance. The top distance defines the distance between the top of the support and bottom of the model and the bottom distance refers to the distance between the bottom of the support and top part of the model.
A small distance between the support structure and parts of the model is necessary in order to remove the supports easily after the model has been printed. A low value creates a smoother surface, but can also make it more difficult to remove the support properly.
Thank you. I'm new to the whole 3d printing and it's a lot of settings to mess around with. Gonna mess with settings and also see if it gets better printed at an angle.
@RussellValois No problem, we were all new once! Please use the voting buttons instead, as it is votes which drive the community. If I'm not mistaken, you are also new at Stack Exchange, please read the [help], accessible through the button with the question mark at the top right menu. Also take the [about]. Welcome at 3DPrinting.SE!
It is extra work, but if the overhang/recess is flat and parallel to the build plate, you can get a very nice surface finish, with a single material fdm printer. The trick is to put down a layer of blue masking tape on a solid support structure the layer before the overhang prints.
You could model in a throwaway “plug” with your model, with a 1mm horizontal gap between it and the real walls, and a single layer gap (like .2mm) vertically between the plug and the overhang surface. Or one could potentially futz with the support settings to generate a solid interface layer on top of the support and a one layer gap between the interface and the overhang.
Once sliced, you program a pause at the end of the layer before the overhang. It is good to program in few extras in the G-code: a movement to retract the filament to make it ooze less, and an X and Y G1 movement so the hotend doesn’t ooze on the model and make a lump. Last, a command to disable the X and Y motors so you can move the bed or carriage around to get it out of the way.
Once paused put down some blue masking tape over the pulg completely. press it down and make an indent where the gap is. Then cut out the plug shape in the masking tape with an exacto knife, following the indent. Now is a good time to put the glue stick on the tape.
When ready to start the print again, home the X and Y axis, and extrude some filament, since undoubtedly the nozzle has oozed out the filament in the nozzle, you don’t want it shooting blanks when you start the next layer.
It is important to go SLOW when printing over the masking tape, or it won’t stick. It is also helpful to increase the extrusion temporarily to get it to stick better. This can be done by hand, or programmed into the G-Code if you are running the job multiple times and don’t want to babysit.
When the print is done, the plug should be easily removed. A little rinse of water can get rid of any residue from the glue stick.
Here is some example G-Code of the pause, taping, and aftermath:
G1 Z0.980 F9000.000 ; Z step to the layer with overhang to print
G1 E0.11935 F3900.00000 ; some extruder move
G92 E0 ; extruder length reset
G1 X25 ; move nozzle away from print
M18; disable steppers
@pause painters tape ; printer pauses and displays message. Add tape, cut out. When finished, prime nozzle, remove blob with tweezers, immediately click continue
G28 X0 ;home X axis
G28 Y0 ;home Y axis
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 E-1 ;retract
G92 E0
M220 S25 ; slow speed to 25%, for better adhesion to painters tape.
;remember to add command later, after tape is covered, to speed it back to 100%
M221 S150 ; increase flow rate to 150%, to adhere to painters tape. return to 100% later!
G92 E0
G1 X130.071 Y164.894 F9000.000 ; print job continues...
G1 E1.50000 F3900.00000
Then later on, after the layer has gone down over the tape, add
M220 S100 ; return print speed to 100%
M221 S100 ; return extrusion rate to 100%
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19803 | Metal coating 3D printed parts (electroless plating)
I know that 3D printed parts can be coated in metal by painting them with conductive paint (graphite or copper seems to be usual) and then electroplating them in a commercial copper or nickel bath. The disadvantage of this process is that it does not coat insides very well, because those are not reached by the electric field.
I know that in the industry for plating ABS-parts with chrome and other metals, there is a process used where first the ABS is etched, then seeded with electroless catalytic palladium and then there are various options, for example electroless nickel or chrome.
I tried to etch both FDM printed ABS and ABS-like resin prints in NaOH, then after rinsing, dropped them in a commercial palladium activator and, after rinsing again, then in an electroless nickel bath, without any effect.
Does anyone have an idea on how to metal plate 3D printed parts (by electroless plating, meaning no electricity involved) and can shed some light on the chemicals used? I would prefer to mix them myself.
You did not use FDM but a Resin printer, yes?
I tried both. Edited the question to make that clear
I can only say that Resin from Resin printers is not etchable with common materials... maybe your ABS is modified or your base too weak?
I would try again using the suggestion from Marvin but with PC-ABS by Polymaker, designed specifically to ease electroplating. https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymaker-pc-abs/
Good day, I have experience in applying electroless nickel on difficult 3D parts, in your case, it's exceedingly difficult to do it directly to the printed piece. You will need to seal the piece with a more benign coating that will accept the palladium activator. Also, a sensitizer before the activator is needed.
Try this.
Try your original procedure, but this time use just before the palladium activator, a stannous chloride solution (20 g per 1 L of deionized Water and 10 ml of muriatic acid), submerge the piece in the solution for 1 minute, rinse in deionized water and then place the piece on the palladium activator for 1 minute (don't rinse the activator) and then place the piece directly on the electroless nickel plating bath.
If that still does not produce good results, then you will need to seal the piece with a two-part epoxy sealer and do the process again.
Thank you very much for that answer! What type of 3D parts do you coat that way? PLA? ABS? Or some Resin?
I have coated all of those, the Easiest is Resin, the hardest is ABS and PLA, it's much easier to just coat them with 2 part epoxy, the best so far is XTC-3D
Ok. I ordered tin(ii) chloride, the rest I already have. I will try that.
@iblue Often time the issue is related to the water surface tension of the piece, most of the 3D print materials have very high water tension and even when submerged for minutes the sensitizer and activator just don't coat the surface. In this case you will need to reduce water surface tension with a wetting agent. You can order some from angelgilding.com the 15 or the 28 buck ones are good for this type of projects. Or if you need to make it yourself let me know I have the formula.
Here is the website for the wetting agent https://angelgilding.com/wetting-agent.html
Thanks for the info. Shipping to Germany is "request a quote", which usually hints that I cannot afford it. I already have some sodium laureth sulfate from previous experiments. Will that do?
It's not going to work since the wetting properties needs to persist even after the piece are washed/rinsed. You have two options. 1. a blow torch to reduce the surface water tension(it can be tricky) or making your own formula. This is what it has worked for me. 500ml of Apple Cider Vinegar, 10 grams of instant coffee powder, 100ml of 90% isopropyl alcohol. mix them at room temperature(30C where I live) to test it's properties you can grab a simple Polypropylene spoon rub some of the wetting agent on. Water will sheet of and the spoon remains wet
Check and see these two videos, this one is Before wetting agent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pBcekRzi_k and After Wetting agent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NJ5-m1Z1KQ that is what you are looking for
So i made some experiments. It works about the same on resin, ABS and PLA, but on PLA it does rub off, on ABS and resin the Nickel coating sticks very well. On all three I do not get uniform plating, but dull spots, about 50-70% of the surface. I tried with and without the wetting agent with approximately the same results. ABS and PLA I etched in some KOH (400 g/l) before the whole process. The plated metal is very thin and has bad conductance. Any tips?
I believe I mentioned that even with good treatment the issue may persist due to their surface. I recomend sealing it with an 2K epoxy coating like XTC-3D Coating.
Also, I have never used an Etch on my parts, so you might want to try to skip that part and see how it does..
There is another option where the plating is done like brushing paint. The electroplating is just done a different way but has the same effect.
It's called brush plating. There's a bunch of different products (none of which I have tried) and the youtube results are pretty impressive. They do need a current as it's electroplating, but you don't immerse the object, the current is through the brush etc,.
You can use semiconductor processes like evaporation, sputtering, and chemical vapor deposition. These are expensive. Sputtering is probably the most feasable but it will have trouble with shadows.
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