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19588 | Static electricity underneath the print with mystery adhesion and warping
Any idea what could be causing a static discharge on large prints? It seems that it's mostly visible when it's done and the print is being removed, it keeps zapping (can barely feel it. Small prints don't seem to be doing this. This leads me to believe it's one of the moving parts rubbing and creating it? I'm using CR6-SE with a glass bed and a full metal hotend and print in PLA PRO (which is another way of saying PLA+ I guess, but the reel said PLA PRO) (in case this was relevant). Another question, I have mystery first layer adhesion issues, could static be responsible for it? After washing the bed with water, it seems to be sticking again for a single print. And I have mystery warps as well. At first I thought it was normal warping, however, it seems to warp in the centre as well. Here's an image of a print:
It looks like someone punched the holes in specific areas. On the other side, they correspond to joints where thin walls ended. I've been suffering from a lot of warp, but it was always corners, never like this. Could this also be caused by static?
Lastly, is there any risk for the printer itself? The shock seems to be limited to bed/print only.
Hi welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! I've embedded the image for you, linking to off-site content is usually not very future proof, instead we use the SE dedicated image storage that is retained as long as this site exists.
Are you sure it is static electricity? Have you checked in the dark when removing the print? Furthermore, you are dealing with a large under-extrusion, you need to address that first (your bottom layer lines do not touch each other so you can see through). It is not the initial bed to nozzle distance, the other layer have the same problem.
Hi,
Thank you for fixing the post.
I'm quite sure it's static electricity. When I move the print next to my skin, I can feel the pull on the hairs (that electric feeling like an electrified balloon or plastic film that just keeps sticking back onto the hand). I haven't tested in the dark, no. It seems to be very weak. It also seems to be only on the underside of the print as I grab it from the top and then the bottom makes the noise.
I fixed the extrusion issue. Turns out the spring wasn't tight enough and it was making it uneven, however remaining issues remain.
It may be worth adding, I always had issues with the print sticking, but I went with a bad solution of overheating the bed to 90 degrees for the PLA Plus to stick. It would become soft at that point (ripping it off the bed would deform it: tested on the side line that is printed at the beginning) and the grip wasn't as strong as just washing the bed with soap. It mostly would warp, but I think that's sensible because warp affects the soft layers, which in that case was the overheated one.
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19591 | Layers peeling off in resin prints
I'm having some issues with my Creality HALOT-ONE. As you can see in the photo, it seems that the layers after the bottom layer are peeling off. I have to remark that the bottom layer sticks very well to the printing bed.
This issue always happens in the next layer after the bottom ones. I have never experienced this in the middle of a print.
Also, it doesn't happen in all the prints. It seems that it appears near the middle of the resin container. I haven't seen it near the corners of the vat yet.
I can imagine that the subsequent layers don't stick properly to the bottom one, but I don't have any clue why.
I'm using the Creality 3D Printer Standard Grey resin.
My bottom exposure time is 46 sec. And my layer exposure time is 3sec. The distance that the plate moves after a layer is 5 cm.
Are your bottom layers that are intentionally over exposed the same number or more as the raft thickness? You don’t want “green” layers in the raft. It can be thin and still do its job.
I didnt consider that, ill try reducing the number of bottom layers. But i changed the fep recently (i have been using the original) and the problem seem to be over
I don't know your machine or resin but here are some likely fixes:
wait_time_before_cure
When the build plate moves down and squeezes the resin against the FEP, the entire machine bends and the build plate only slowly approaches the intended height
Remedy: add e.g. 5 s of wait_time_before_cure
level your build plate
The bottom_cure_time might compensate for a skewed build plate but the first regular layer may not
Remedy: level your build plate
position of models
Models fail when placed in the wrong position. Follow this order when placing models on the build plate. When you put a model in position 3 and none in 1 or 2, a failure is more likely.
By the way, model/models can cover most of the build plate as pealing forces are very rarely an issue.
Not related to your issue but things to consider:
bottom_cure_time
It's not necessary to have 46 s bottom_cure_time. 2-3 times the regular_cure_time is fine, so in your case e.g. 7 s. It saves your light source from overheating and removing your models from the build plate becomes much easier.
lift_height
The distance that the plate moves after a layer is 5 cm
not sure what you mean. lift_height is typically 5 mm max, which also saves you a lot of print time.
It was a Fep Problem. I was using the original one, i changed it and the problem disapeared :D
@Germán - please post your comment as an actual answer (rather than a comment) and expand upon it. Then mark it as accepted (after waiting 48 hours). It may help others who have the same problem. Thanks.
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19523 | Filament not being extruded
I'm pretty new to 3D printing, got my printer about 5 days ago and spent most of my time with it.
First off, it is an Ender 3 Pro with everything stock, haven't made any upgrades except I run it with OctoPrint from a Raspberry Pi Zero but I have determined that's not the source of the problem as it's well within 80 % idle on its CPU.
The issue I'm experiencing is that the extruder starts slipping at some point along the print. It's not the clicky type of slipping that appears to be the common issue but rather it's just spinning and grinding on the filament which is remaining stationary. When this happens the printer continues on about its business as it's unaware that filament is not coming out. I move the Z-axis up, squeeze the extruder lever and try to push on the filament which is not budging, which made me think I had a clogged nozzle. I was surprised as it's a brand new printer but the internet says that nozzles clog up so I disassembled and cleaned it just to find that it happens again on my very next print. I noticed that when I pull or push on the filament by hand while squeezing the extruder lever - relieving pressure from the gear, it is quite hard to do so, even partly impossible as my fingers start to slip, I have to squeeze extremely hard or use pliers. I pulled the filament out using quite a bit of force, then snapped off the piece that was already in the tubing and inserted fresh filament which slid very easily through the white tubing to the hot end and when reaching it by pushing very gently I start to see filament coming out as opposed to pushing really hard and barely anything coming out previously. If I do that and return the Z-axis to its position then resume the print it continues until that happens again.
My bed is leveled as best as I can, I downloaded the bed leveling G-codes that help a lot to achieve good adhesion, my prints look pretty much perfect, smooth lines very pleasing to the look and touch, until what I mentioned above happens.
I don't understand what could be the reason that my filament would just bind up like that and snipping it off and inserting a new piece there's no sign of the issue whatsoever.
Notes for what it's worth:
I'm using cheap black PLA 1.75 mm
Hotend temperature 200 °C
Bed temperature 60 °C
Printing speed 50 mm/s
The extruder pulley (white wheel with the bearing) bolt is not tightened to the end as recommended on the internet
The spring bolt on the extruder is not tightened also, as I see there are marks on the filament that went past the extruder wheel, anyway I tried tightening it for the sake of it and it didn't help
My extruder arm is not cracked
The gear (brass wheel) doesn't seem to be damaged
Have you unscrewed the nozzle and tried pushing filament manually through the Bowden to see if there is a lot of friction in the system itself?
@0scar yes I tried, it didn't seem to have any issues going through, although there are some scratches on the outside of the tube where it meets the (i don't know what it's called) on the top but I assume that it's fine on the inside.
I experienced similar problems when I changed to other filament. The solution was to open my enclosure as the inside temperature was too hot and the filament got too soft for extraction.
Moreover have a look at the gear wheels position and maybe adjust the height a bit. At one time my wheel screws got loosened and the wheel was sitting too low resulting in irregular skipping.
Ender 3 Pro doesn't have an enclosure
also on my 3 pro the gear height can not be adjusted
I had a similar issue with my Ender 3, and it was a combination of things. First, the hot end (inside) was clogged. I took the entire thing apart, heated it up, and cleaned it out. There is also a method called a cold pull, I did that a few times.
I then also replaced the Bowden tube because it had gunk in it and cause the filament to not flow as it needed.
After doing those two things, the printer began extruding.
One thing I noticed is that those little brass wheels get worn down by the filament really quickly if the stuff isn't moving through the Bowden tube. The PLA just grinds the gear down. You should probably replace that wheel/roller or just get the all-metal extruder like one from Amazon. I think this is worth the $10.
Also, you may suffer from under extrusion after doing this and you should probably calibrate your extruder.
It's not hard.
Doing these things got my Ender back up and running.
I think I figured mine was also a combination of a few things but not necessarily the ones you have mentioned. I put a desk fan right next to the printer and after doing a few 8h+ prints I think it's safe to assume that the 40x10 fan is just not up to the task at 27+ C ambient. We'll see how it goes when it gets colder after a few months without the fan.
This is probably the filament. I've had the exact same issue on my Ender 3 Pro and solved it by baking the filament.
I suggest you try with another filament just to make sure. Or bake a length of the filament for a couple of hours at 50 degrees and try again.
The other possibility is that the filament is not consistent in diameter.
Well it's an Acccreate 1.75 PLA filament and reviews online seem to be only positive. I'll try getting anothrr brand but what would be a recommended one? Is sunhokey any better?
I've found it's not so much the brand as whether the filament has absorbed enough moisture to create the problem. Mine came seafreight which took months and were mostly rubbish by the time they arrived. The same filament brand that came airfreight printed fine.
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19524 | Moving bed Y-axis belt keeps skipping after replacement
I replaced my belt that had snapped and tightened it with the tension adjuster. Now, either the tension is too tight to allow the Y-axis belt motors to move the bed, or otherwise, the bed skips at some point during the print at least once, offsetting the entire print and ruining it.
Perhaps I could increase the power to the motor, but how would I do that, and also is that smart judging by the factory settings power limit? I don't want to overpower the motor, the belt is pretty much identical to the one before it so I would imagine it should be the same performance.
Klipper + FluiddPI
Raspberry Pi 3+
Anycubic Mega X
Here is a link to some videos of the belt being moved manually. I can see it skipping on the belt here at various tensions. does this show anything particularly telling? I am almost certain the two belts are the same, but maybe I'm wrong..
Belt tight (too tight to allow the Y-axis belt motors to move the bed):
Belt loose (the bed skips at some point during the print):
If the old belt was so tight it snapped, I would be worried the motor bearings are completely shot and the motor shaft binding, or that the mounting brackets are bent. A belt has to be extremely overtightened before it will snap, so much that it would do other damage.
when i tighten too much it it doesnt move, when i loosen it it still skips but less often, until i loosen to a point where its just far too loose to do anything.
I mightve broken it when trying to move te bed and adding too much pressure while the motors were engaged, im not sure because i noticed it broke so after the fact. .
How would I determine any of the potentialities you listed above?
Remove the belt and rotate the shaft by hand, not powering the machine, preferably dislodge the cable, see if it rotates normally (compare with another stepper). A replacement stepper (you need type A of the Anycubic replacement steppers) costs about 15 Euro, I'd order a spare and see what that does, not expensive and always handy.
just did that, that's what in the video actually, i was moving by hand. didn't see any abnormalities but it did look like some weird disturbance was happening in the cord, not sure if its the stepper motor or belt design. The belt as far as I can tell is identical to the original...
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19527 | Why is it more common to move the extruder on the Z-axis than the print bed, in consumer FDM printers?
Why is it more common for consumer level FDM printers to move the extruder on the Z-axis (For example, the Ender 3) while the bed remains at a fixed height, than to have a bed that moves up and down on the Z-axis?
if the nozzle is crooked it's no big deal. if the bed is crooked, it's a very big deal.
The reason is economics, building cheap printers for the masses requires the use of as less material as possible; this keeps the price down.
A bed that moves up and down requires a sturdy construction and usually more and more expensive materials.
If you look at the Prusa i3 style printer, the bed moves in Y direction while the X-Z is a single plane perpendicular to the Y-axis. This allowed printer designs to have a single upright frame made from acrylic (not the best solution, but cheap) or steel plate (expensive due to the cutout and waste material) or aluminum profiles (value for money solution). If you need the bed to go up and down, you need to constrain the X-Y plane high above the build plate (e.g. Ultimaker printers, Hypercube, etc.); this requires a stiff frame and hence more material.
Do note that e.g. the Voron 2.4 although a boxed up printer, has a fixed bed and a moving X-Y plane. This requires even more materials and is even more expensive.
Building the printer upside down avoids a big part of this constraint. See for example the Positron V3.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE As seller of such a concept I would be concerned on supporting my community with prints not sticking to the build plate... ;-) (Thanks for the reference though!) Furthermore this concept uses linear rails which are very expensive compared to aluminum profiles, plate steel or acrylic, especially the quality ones.
FWIW I think the back-and-forth motion of a bed slinger is probably more of a problem for adhesion than gravity.
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19537 | Printing half size after board replacement
I recently burnt out one of the MOSFETS on my RAMPS 1.4 board on my Sintron Kossel clone so have upgraded it to a RAMPS 1.6.
Now my printer seems to only print 50 % of the intended size.
After the machine homes it only comes down about 50 % of the distance and so starts printing in mid air.
I thought it might have been the driver steps? The DRV 8825 drivers are 32 steps instead of 16. I changed this value in the firmware but it didn't make any difference.
Any suggestions?
What did you actually change than? You should adjust the steps per mm. If you go from 16 microsteps to 32 microsteps you need to send more steps (twice) to achieve the same distance to travel.
Data from Firmware is not written into EEPROM on its own after updating your firmware. You need to send a M502 to "seed" the firmware numbers as that is restoring the "default" settings in it. If you are unsure what is currently the EEPROM setting, use M503 first.
If you changed you stepper drivers here's a list to check:
Microstepping Jumpers
In Marlin Configuration.h:
X_DRIVER_TYPE, Y_DRIVER_TYPE, Z_DRIVER_TYPE and
E0_DRIVER_TYPE
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT
INVERT_X_DIR, INVERT_Y_DIR, INVERT_Z_DIR and INVERT_E0_DIR
In Marlin Configuration_adv.h:
MINIMUM_STEPPER_POST_DIR_DELAY, MINIMUM_STEPPER_PRE_DIR_DELAY, MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE, MAXIMUM_STEPPER_RATE
Other driver-specific constants
EEPROM settings stored on the control board (use M503 to read current settings).
many thanks for the advice. will check those things out.cheers scott
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19593 | Chitubox: Is it possible to place a hollow object flat on the build plate and use internal supports?
I have a bust that I want to print flat on the build plate of an Elegoo resin printer, but I want to place supports inside it without having to add a skate or raft?
Is this possible, and if so how
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19599 | DIY 3D printer Z-axis problems
So I have a homebuilt 3D printer. I was testing the axes and all of that, suddenly the Z-axis stopped working.
I changed its connection to a different axis, and it's working, but when I bring it back to its original Z-axis port on the RAMPS, it doesn't move. I've adjusted the pot on the A4988 drivers, tried almost three of them, but still it wouldn't move.
What's the problem? Is it the controller issue or what? I've bought two RAMPS boards, first one 1.4, similar issue, the hotend port stopped working, and now RAMPS 1.5, Z-axis stopped working, although initially, they all worked great.
You have tagged the question with "G-Code" but don't mention it in your question. Please explain how the tag is relevant to the question.
Hi welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Have you unplugged steppers when the board and steppers were being powered? P.S. do note the RAMPS shields are a little outdated, you have better options out there.
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19615 | Glass bed is higher in center when corners are leveled
After leveling the corners of my bed (Ender 3 Pro, with Creality glass bed) the center of my bed is higher. When I start a print the nozzle is so close to the glass bed no filament is laid down.
Is there any way to independently level the center of my bed? No matter how much I adjust the knobs I can't get the center leveled.
I bodged it to print the first layer nicely by simply using a raft. Its working for the benchy I am currently printing, but I don't know how feasible a whole beds' worth of parts is on a massive raft. But for the time being this should work for now.
Possibly related: Why is the center of my glass print bed lower than the corners?
Make sure that the glass is straight, use a ruler on its side to see it you have a bump in the glass when the sheet of glass is not on the printer, but, flat on the table.
If the glass is not straight you can do 3 things:
use a bltouch or some other mesh level mechanism.
adjust the height for the center of the bed, so you can print small prints with no problem. Do this by leveling the 4 corners and then adjusting all 4 knobs the same amount until the center is at the correct height.
probably the best thing to do is get a new glass plate. Creality has more issues with warped or bulged print-surfaces. Maybe your supplier can take care of this for you.
Do you think its worth reaching out to Creality about? Or should I just look into other hobbyist grade glass beds and use a purple glue stick?
Your bed really needs to be flat. Reach out to creality about the issue.
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19608 | Ender 3 not allowing z=0 regardless of z offset value
Using TH3D firmware with some small changes to allow manual mesh levelling and to increase the serial baud rate, neither of which are active when the error presented.
When auto home is used either through the LCD or by directly pushing a command to the printer it (correctly) says that x=0, y=0 but is incessant that z=0.3. When measuring with a feeler guage it turns out it is correct on what the Z value is, which would be fine if it wasnt for the fact it refuses to go lower than its percieved Z=0.3, even when I intentionally screw up the homing so that the endstop does not trigger at that height.
I've tried setting a z offset both through serial connection and through the LCD and it echos them back and appears to listen to the changes in that the nozzle distance changes but still the printer assumes that when the endstop is triggered Z=0.3, which makes absolutely no sense to me.
Any help would be appreciated
The issue with the TH3D firmware I'm using (the latest available for the Melzi ender 3 as of now) is I could not find any values for the minimum Z value, this was because it is not explicitly defined in the configs by default.
Digging around some borderline prehistoric docs and forum posts I found to fix this it needs defining in the configuration_backend.h (as far as I can tell - might also function in other config files).
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
My current assumption was by not defining this marlin was either assuming some incorrect default or the printer was assuming some long past set value and making it impossible to change this default through a serial connection without updating the firmware. (again this is a guess - it may be possible)
This can also obviously be used to set any Z minimum e.g. for a bed that is higher than it's endstops.
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19558 | Missing filament at Z seam
The object on the right is a basic C channel, the outer surface should be smooth but the first ~5 mm of filament is missing after every layer change. In this example, the missing filament is reasonably consistent and extreme. The object on the left (from the same print) has a seam where the filament is also missing but it was not a layer change so it is only missing 1-2 mm.
But when printing a benchy the gap is not as large and has different lengths. The other side of the Benchy looks great, this side has all of the seams on it.
Details
Anet A6 direct drive
Marlin firmware with the latest Octoprint
Heated enclosure, glass bed @ 60 °C
eSun PLA, have used many cheaper brands all with the same issue
Printing at 210 °C but have tested 180-220 °C
When printing an army of Benchys, I thought this was a retraction issue and test all sorts of settings with small increments but did not fix the issue. It was after printing this C channel that the issue was more clearly highlighted.
Things that I have attempted to resolve this
Geomerty calerbration
Extruder calerbration
Filament temperature range tests
Retraction distance and speed towers
Retraction distance and temperature towers
Disabling retraction (worth a short) - Disabling retraction during only Z hop (did nothing)
Different version of Cura
Different filament brands
Can not seem to figure out what the issue here is and have run out of ideas on what to do next.
Posting my own solution here
The seams are printing normally now and the solution was simple. The extruder gear was not gripping the filament correctly during retractions and was slipping as a result. Figured this out because the gear seemed to be dirty, which made me think 'how could it get dirty?'.
There was an adjustment that compresses a spring that holds the filament against the extruder gear, it just needed some adjusting.
Thank you to everyone for your ideas, I was close to quitting with this printer.
Thanks for revisiting your question and posting your own solution! This is very much appreciated. Please remember that after 48 hours you can even accept your own solution.
Several things to try:
Dry your filament. Wet filament can have trouble resuming after retract due to moisture absorbing all the heat and slowing the melt, and can also drastically increase internal oozing, leading to missing material later.
Adjust Cura settng "Max comb distance with no retract": set very low, around 1mm. Having this at the default (unlimited) causes serious oozing inside the model leading to missing material on the next extrusion path. You'll want to turn on "Connect infill lines" when changing this or you'll introduce a lot of extra retractions that will make your prints very slow.
If using Linear Advance make sure it's not set too high. Some users get carried away calibrating it for pretty corners, but if you go too high, you'll end up with serious underextrusion wherever the toolpath slows down. It needs to be set as close to perfect as possible, erring on the side of a lower K value rather than a higher one if unsure.
If your printer has a Bowden extruder system (I believe yours does not relevant to OP's printer), check that all the tube fittings are holding the tube snug and that it does not move in/out on retract/unretract. If there's play in the tube, this can make retraction and unretraction ineffective, causing all sorts of artifacts that can be similar to those of having bad retraction settings, but that can't be fixed by changing settings.
The question says it’s direct drive, i.e. no Bowden tube.
@fectin: Sorry, I missed that. Just googled for anet a6 and it seemed to be Bowden.
No problem, just trying to help improve the answer :)
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19652 | Very first 3D prints, but bad quality. What can I do?
To start with, as stated in the title, I am very new to 3D printing.
We're a toy/boardgame shop and we're experimenting with 3D printing because it could open up a huge market for us. To this end, I'm asked to try to get this off the ground, but also for me it's a big experiment.
General Information
Printer: Craftbot Plus
Slicer: CraftwarePro (1.1.4.368)
Filament: PLA - 1.75 mm
Designed in: Tinkercad
Problem
I designed a puzzle box in Tinkercad. Here are some images of the design:
I've printed it twice, but both have some problems. I made some pictures, hopefully showing the flaws clearly.
Print 1
This print actually came out pretty ok, but not the quality I'm looking for.
Print 2
For some reason, this one came out way worse in my opinion. I didn't change any settings. The reason why I made this second print is that there are some design flaws in the first print.
As you might be able to tell, this one has some more severe problems, like the prolapse on one of the corners of the lid and some threads that just seem to be broken off here and there.
Question
My question is basically, what is likely to be the problem, and how should I solve them. Are there some settings on the printer, or in the slicer that needs to be changed? Or could it be something with the design, for example, would it be better to have the lids laying down on the bed, instead of standing up as I have them in the design right now?
Also, here and there seem to be threads of plastic where I think there should not be any.
What have I found myself
Since I'm very new to this, I wasn't really sure what to search/look for. I know it's expected to do some research yourself before posting any question, but I really didn't have a clue where to start.
Though, while typing in the question, 2 suggestions showed up:
Suggestion 1
I have bad print quality, what should I do?
I'm not sure this looks like any of my problem areas, but somewhat similar.
Suggestion 2
Bad quality at horizontal faces
This looks very much similar to how some of my areas look. Is the problem described in this post indeed the same as mine, based on the pictures?
Conclusion
In both posts, "Under Extrusion" is mentioned this is probably something to look into?
Some personal observations
There are 2 things I noticed myself, maybe some conclusions can be made from this:
Something else I'm noticing while heating up the extruder is that plastic already leaks out in a very thin thread before it actually starts printing.
When the print is done, I notice thin threads of plastic between the different objects (Like a spiderweb), this probably has something to do with point 1.
When the printer is starting, I notice that the very first threads of plastic are not a fluent string, but sometimes get interrupted, as if no plastic is coming out of the extruder for a short moment.
Conclusion
Hopefully, I provided every information that is required to answer this question properly. I'm looking forward to any offered assistance.
In case any additional information is required, I'm happy to give this next time I'm at the office.
P.S. I had to remove 6 links (pictures) to get to my maximum of 8
It's quite a read! Welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! One of your prime problems is adhesion the other is orientation of the prints for printing,
Oscar is correct but also I'm seeing some bonding problem, this is for the quality of the filament, a higher temperature may help, but the low quality of the filament will remain. this becomes breakable parts, I had that problem with 2 reels last year. I had to use it on low streng parts.
Looking at your username, I'd say you are located in the same country, you can get very good quality filament produced in the Netherlands at reasonable prices. Postage is free for the Netherlands. What filament brand did you use?
@0scar We are indeed from the Netherlands. The filament we used is from Layers. Im not sure if that is the actual brand of the filament, but that is where the filament is from.
Also thanks for your short and long answer, definitely some information in there I can work with.
Welcome to 3Dprinting.SE! Lay3rs sells the brand I was referring to, ColorFabb. Note that SE is not a forum, it's just questions and answers driven by voting. Please stick around, ask questions, vote for good questions and if your reputation gets over 50 you can vote for answers. You can always accept an answer on your own question, you can even add your own answer and accept it after 48 hours. Please take the [tour] for more information on how stack exchange works.
There are several issues at hand here, first you have an adhesion problem.
This print shows that the print (as it is printed upright) has come loose during printing and lifted up. Such a print should have been printed as it is now laying on your table. You will then also get far better quality of printed holes. So, second is print orientation on the build plate.
This shows another example of adhesion problems, but it also shows that you initial distance between the nozzle and the bed is slightly too large. The paper method usually works fine, but you can use feeler gauges. Alternatively use a specific 3D print adhesion spray (3DLAC, Magigoo, DimaFix) or alternatively some hairsprays or glue sticks.
Third, design. Just a tip, I see that your design uses some sort of a pin:
you should avoid thin pole/spike like prints. These are difficult to print and usually very weak. Think of an alternative, an embedded shaft or a bolt is usually a much better solution.
Fourth, this shows that there was no filament printed, it could be that the spool had extra resistance or the filament was entangled. Check your filament spool.
Fifth, this shows that you have a retraction problem, the filament pressure is still too large when the head moves to the next coordinates, it then oozes until the pressure has been released. Changing retraction speed or distance may help.
I've also found recently that using 4 different slicers, I get 4 different results.
I was getting lots of zits on rounded surfaces such as cylinders/spheres.
I have an Ender 5 S1 with a Sonic Pad, printing at 200 hot end, 60 bed with default slicer settings for my printer.
I used:
Creality Slicer
Creality Print (still confused why Creality has 2 different slicers, and which one is the recommended one)
Ultimaker Cura
Prusa
Cura was the only one that produced zits. The other 3 printed very nicely.
Prusa was showing "artifacts" through the cylinder when there were threads on the inside. Basically, it looked almost like the threads were extruding through the entire outer wall of the cylinder (it was a female-threaded cap).
Creality Slicer was ok, but slower than all of them.
Creality Print was almost 2x faster than all of the other slicers, until a more complex print was performed and then Prusa seemed to be slightly faster.
This is an old thread, and I'm pretty new to 3d printing, but thought I'd share my experience here with different slicers in case they are having print issues, too.
Creality Slicer and Creality print are Cura derivates. The quality of your printing in Cura is highly dependent on your settings. I just printed a Cura 5.0 sliced object with seams only visible in two tiny spots, using my custom profile.
Good point, @trish - I should have mentioned these were mainly default settings for my printer (in fact, Cura's default setting has the bed size incorrectly, so I have from time to time, received "out of bounds" and had to tweak it.). Interesting update, I've been printing some Mario objects from RICO3DMAKER on Cults3d and am having issues with zits using Cura Print, but Prusa is showing them almost perfectly. So much to learn!
The "Zits" often are the Z-seam
I'm not sure this is the same. My prints with Cura have random locations all over, not just down the seam. I will try to find some time to play with this setting though and see if it improves the prints.
Another common reason for zits is uneven filament
Adhesion
Try raising your bed temperature a couple of degrees at a time. Presumably your filament has some "suggested temperatures" on the spool, but they sometimes only give a hotend's temp. For PLA some people get good results with a 50 degree C bed, I find nothing less than 60 degrees C. Esun's rec seems to be 60-80 for the bed.
For the hotend my esun PLA+ suggests 205-225 and I print at 218.
Depending on the environment, draughts can upset things and trigger lifting. If the printer is in a place where there are winds/breezes, or airconditioning that cycles on and off, the temperature fluctuations can start lifting. Try putting your printer somewhere that there is no wind and air conditions are static. I have a curtain around mine, and some people use enclosures made from popup laundry baskets or similar. Doesn't have to be fancy.
You can try things with light layers of water-soluble gluestick on the bed, which works for me. Others have had success in laying blue painter's tape on the bed but I found the heat made the adhesive a hot mess.
Orientation
That pin will never work - 3D printing has layers and items are always weak along the layers. So that part is a poor candidate for 3D printing.
Instead, buy a large assortment box of M3 nuts and bolts. These work much better than thin printed parts.
Also, that large lid should be printed laying flat on its back. Even the action of the bed moving around could be creating enough breeze to cool that part quickly and cause shrinkage.
Design
That dovetail at the foot of the box, as printed it will have a layer line right across the base. Since that looks like the most economical way to print this part, you might consider making the dovetail a lot wider, and it may need a slight draught angle added to help the lid engage smoothly.
The lid might spin around the pin and whack the dovetail clean off too - perhaps the two sidewalls should be raised so the lid only slides off in one direction?
Lack of filament
Holes in a printed part are a kind of under-extrusion, and mean there's not enough plastic at that time. If your roll of filament is under friction then the printer may not be able to pull it in fast enough.
Also if the hotend isn't hot enough it may not be melting quick enough for your print speed, or there may be clogs in the nozzle from contaminations in the filament.
Suggestion
Start by levelling the bed, and then print one item in your set. Use a "brim" to improve adhesion, and it will be done first. As your printer starts the job, watch it closely and manually adjust the bed on the fly.
Imagine these as side-views:
____ __ _____ Nozzle is way too low, you're scratching the bed
____ __ ____ Nozzle is too low, so drop the bed down a bit. The filament should have colour.
____ __ ____ This is about right.
____ o _____ Nozzle is a bit too high
____ O _____ Nozzle is a lot too high
____ O _____ Filament is floating in the air which is sub-optimal
Ideally you want to feel the printed filament line as a flattened line stuck to the bed, and not a round string lying on the print bed. It should almost feel like the edges of a sticker.
Of course, the printer is moving all the time. Do not get in its way, and if you do block the motion in any direction then the print will likely be ruined.
Thanks for the answer, definitely some information and tips in here I can look at.
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19731 | Crealtity Ender 3 extruder
I had a very similar experience as another member. I have Ender 3 with BLTouch which had been working amazing until a while ago. It was running a print overnight and when I got up in the morning the print had failed and the BLTouch had completely broken off.
Since then, we had our friend print a new hinge for it and we've managed to get it kinda working until recently. All one a sudden it prints about an inch and then just stops pushing filament through it also seems to stretch it.
I'm a newbie and am not all up on the lingo but I do know a bit. Apologies, I'm very new to this and also sight impaired. So whatever I try to print will stop actually printing when the item gets to around an inch in height although the printer continues behaving as though it's still printing but no more filament comes through the nozzle. I hope this is making some sense. I will try and get another print going but today we can't even get filament going through at all.
You mention the extruder in your title then in the body of your post the BLTouch. Could you please [edit] clarify what exactly you need help with?
This sounds as if there is a problem with the extruder, please check if the extruder lever is broken. Another reason can be heat creep since it happens after a while. Please update by [edit] to include printing parameters like temperatures, cooling and speeds.
I would agree with Oscar. Chep at Filament Friday posted a video about this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXe7bftyMFU . I would also check the nozzle. A partial clog can cause similar issues.
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19699 | Flashforge Adventurer 3 - how to replace X-axis endstop
I found a similar question in the forum but now need assistance on how to replace the X-axis endstop. I have been scouring for videos and haven't found one yet. Can anyone help me?
The printer turns on, preheats but as soon as I choose a print, it goes to the right and just continues to run. It only stops when I turn it off.
I did a factory reset and no luck. I ordered the new parts but really don't know where to start. It looks like the wires for the endstop run into the body of the machine so it looks like I will be taking the whole thing apart. I am quite nervous about this.
Hi Samantha, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Please link to the question you found.
I can't find a video that shows how to replace it on my specific type of 3D printer - Flashforge Adventurer 3. I have not removed it yet b/c I don't know how to get to it.
I've added an answer, please look at the video I linked, I think it is clear how you need to proceed to replace the part. Disclaimer; I don't own the printer, please be sensible, I'm not responsible for damages. ;-)
This is not a "how to" to replace the X end stop; this post is meant as a description of the location of the X-axis end stop.
End stops are generally located on the minimum of the axis, but there are exceptions, e.g. Ultimaker has the Z-axis end stop at the bottom, this is the maximum. For the X-axis, end stops can be located on the print head, but more commonly found on the minimum value of the X-axis. The Flashforge Adventurer 3 has the X-axis end stop mounted in the print head.
The image below shows the overview of the X gantry:
Note the flag on the right (encircled in red):
The flag enters (on homing) the rectangular slot on the top rigt, see below:
So, this is where the X-axis end stop is located. This implies that the print head needs to be disassembled.
The X-axis end stop module can be found online as a replacement part, the back looks like this
and the front like this:
It appears that you can take off the top of the printhead cover:
You will instantly see that the end stop module can be found there! It takes 2 screws to replace it (and some connectors!).
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19688 | MKS Gen L v1.0 smoking when I heat up the build plate
When I boot the Flsun Cube F5 with an MKS Gen L v1.0 controller board, it boots fine; it beeps, and all the LEDs come on. When I heat the hotend it works beautifully, and once up to temperature, the extruder motor feeds just like it should.
However, when I turn on the heater of the build plate, it starts heating and after about 10-12 seconds the board, specifically the MOSFET at the heat bed connection quickly begins to get hot and starts to smoke. I feel if I let it continue, either the board would catch on fire or at least burn out the board.
Does anybody have any suggestions as to how to fix this? I still haven't tried the X, Y, and Z steppers yet, but that will be coming soon.
Dear Brian, if you are referring to this previous question, please add an answer or delete the question (preferably answer your question and accept the answer after 48 hours). It might be beneficial to other with similar problems! Thanks.
The MOSFET is either dead, or can't handle the high current the bed requires. You can try using an external MOSFET which is quite easy to wire, or alternatively soldering a new MOSFET one which is quite difficult.
Example of an external MOSFET (module):
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19202 | PETG layers are super rough
I own a spool of PETG and I have been having major print quality issues: layer offsets, chunks of 3D print strewn across the buildplate and other things. I traced these effects to a single culprit: rough layers. I don't know how to fix this. I haven't had this issue at all with any of my other PETG filament colors. And the buildplate height is just where it needs to be, so why is this happening?
Print settings
Layer height: 0.23 mm
Extruder: 235 °C
Bed: 80 °C
Retraction length: 6 mm
Retraction extra restart length: 0.3 mm
Z-Hop height: 0.25 mm
Base print speed: 45 mm/s
Extrusion ratio: 106 %
What slicer are you using? Do you have "combing" enabled?
I am using Flash print. I dont know where to find "combing in my print settings" @R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE
Go a little warmer. Maybe 242. Also, that retraction number looks okay if you have a bowden setup, but it's way too high if you don't (1.5 is a better starting number)
Do you have a picture you could add?
You are probably over extruding, this causes an excess amount of filament causing the mentioned problems. PETG is softer than PLA, so the extruder teeth grip deeper into the filament. This smaller diameter causes too much filament flow. Try to decrease the flow modifier for this spool of PETG.
Furthermore, your spool may have picked up some moisture, please dry the spool prior to use.
Go a little warmer. Maybe 242.
Also, that 6 mm retraction number looks okay if you have a Bowden setup, but it's way too high if you don't (1.5 is a better starting number).
Finally, there are those who disagree on this point, but I only change my extrusion from the default 100% when I notice issues on specific prints. Ultimately, the extra 6% extruded material has to go somewhere, and it's likely contributing to the roughness.
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19502 | Flashforge adventurer 3 will not home or calibrate
I had a piece of filament break off in the tube and could not unload it so I removed the extruder and pulled out the piece. Reloaded filament and started to recalibrate. The head went to left and tried to keep going. It made a horrible thumping and would not stop until I turned the unit off. I then tried to home it, same result. Tried to reset to factory settings then home it and same result. Any ideas?
This can happen when the end stop of the X-axis (i.e. the minimum end stop on the left) has moved/bent/broken/un-connected.
Please look into this answer of question Flashforge Adventurer 3 - how to replace X-axis endstop. The X end stop is a module inside the print head, please look if the connector is dislodged or something.
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19496 | What could be the cause of these resin prints looking wonky?
I don't know how to describe it, but when I print on my Phrozen Sonic Mini with this resin, this happens (it's Siraya tech, but it happens with regular resin too). The bottom half, the stuff furthest from the build plate gets wonky looking. The first picture, the print supposed to have a flat bottom, but it bulges out, and it has to be round, but it's not perfectly round. I printed it at a 45° angle, and it used a ton of supports, and 3.5 seconds exposure per layer.
This might be a problem with the structure and orientation of the print - if you print large flat areas in one go, the still malleable resin can get sucked at and deform, the next layer then reinforcing the deformed state and thus creating the odd bulging pattern.
You might want to tilt the printed parts so that the flat areas are printed at some angle and thus reducing the area on which forces are applied on layer change.
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19488 | Prints end after 3 or 4 layers after upgrading stock FW to Marlin 2.0.9.3
Finally upgraded my old stock Marlin Firmware to Marlin 2.0.9.3 (current latest release). I'm using Cura 5.0 as my slicer. Printer is a Folgertech Prusa i3, acrylic. It was working fine but I wanted access to some EEPROM settings that stock didn't have.
Everything seems fine until my prints get to about layer 3 or 4, and then suddenly the print stops, the Z-axis lifts up about 5 mm, and all motors turn off. Cura doesn't show that the print failed or anything and continues to advance the progress bar, but all temperature readings stop updating so I assume the printer has terminated the connection. Aborting the print in Cura does not fix the connection, and I can't jog motors until I unplug the USB and plug it back in. The only change I made is updating firmware, so it must be something there. Any guesses what's happening?
Layer 3 / 4 might be a misdetected thermal runaway, caused by the part cooling fan cooling down the extruder too much and it not being able to restore temperature in time (bad PID?) to prevent triggering that feature.
Try a print without the fan. If that fixes it, do a PID tune or adjust the runaway parameters
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19388 | X-axis taper problem
Tronxy P802M I believe. PLA. The calibration cube is tapered on one side of the X-axis only. Everything else looks good. The top is almost 1 mm narrower than the bottom, but only on X-axis.
Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Please provide a sharper image and put the measurements in the image or in words in the question. Is this the 20 mm calibration cube? So, is the top in X 19.0 mm? What temperatures did you use? Please [edit] the question, not comment, thanks!
Check whether your Z axis rods are the same distance apart at the bottom and the top of their travel.
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19393 | Under-extrusion halfway into print - Dremel 3D45 -PETG
NEW UPDATE BELOW
I am having trouble finding the cause for this under-extrusion at start/end of each layer.
Something changes halfway into the print creating a visible seam at some specific layer height.
This also creates dimensional inaccuracy making my parts unusable.
The first layers are just fine - roundness deviation around 0.03 mm!
Any ideas on which settings I should look into?
Settings
Printer: Dremel 3D45 (newest firmware)
Slicer: Dremel DigiLab (also tried Cura Ultimaker 5.0)
Filament: PET-G
Printing Temperature: 250 °C
Initial Temperature: 240 °C
Final Temperature: 235 °C
Flow: 105 %
Retraction Distance: 1 mm (tried 3 - 1 mm)
Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s (tried 60 - 20 mm/s)
Prime Amount: 0.6 mm³ (tried 0 - 0.6)
Retraction Minimum Travel: 0
Retract at Layer Change: Off
Maximum Retraction Count: 90 (could this be a problem?)
Minimun Extrusion Distance Window: 1 mm
Print Speed: 35 mm/s
Wall Sprint Speed: 30 mm/s
Combing Mode: All
Fan Speed: 50 %
Seam: Shortest
Update 18/05
Fixed the seam by setting the alignment to random and changing retraction settings.
Remaining problem is the inaccuracy right next to the Y axis (see marked area on the pictures). Besides a hardware issue I cant think about any slicer setting which would adress this deviation.
Diameter X: 30.02 mm
Diameter Y: 30.04 mm
Diameter Marked: 29.90 mm
I wouldn't worry about 0.15 mm. Printing isn't very accurate, this isn't an accurate CNC machine, 0.03 mm is actually very good. The deposition, the flow and the shrinkage all add to the inaccuracies.
That's not under extrusion
That is the seam, and technically it is over extruding around it. You will find that if you turn the item, you have such a spot on every layer, actually with an inner and outer perimeter, you'll have two visible seams. The seam is where the extrusion line meets itself, and thus the extrusion has to stop.
I "removed" the seam by setting it to random and did some calibration parts for flow and retraction - everything is looking good now. But there are still problems with the dimensional accuracy between the X and Y axis - around 0.15 deviation. Just like the dent before the seam on the pictures above. Do you have any suggestions? Already checked belt tension...
you can't not have a seam in a layer, but you can have them not aligned to one another as you realised.
"Prime Amount" sounds like "extra prime on unretract", which necessarily deposits a blob of extra material at the location of unretract, including the Z seam. Setting this to zero should help reduce the problem. This setting is a hack to compensate for material loss to oozing during travel, but if you have oozing you should just fix that instead rather than chucking out a blob to make up for it.
Prime Amount to 0 and seam location to random fixed the big seam. But I'm still having problems with inaccuracy between the X and Y axis - which was located right next to the seam on the parts printed above.
@rosi97 - you might try doing a print with the seam at a different orientation to more clearly distinguish the two.
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19260 | PID fails too hot temperature with new hotend on Tevo Tornado
I am new to 3D printing. I had a big issue with the full hotend: thermocouple broke, the fan broke, plastic everywhere... (I don't really know why as hundreds of prints were good before)
Anyway, I decided to replace the full hotend (2 fans + thermocouple + cartridge). I have the issue of nozzle temp. rising to max value very fast (250 °C defined as max temp. to not exceed in my printer setup). PID autotune failed because of this.
I checked my printer, it is a 24 V supply (Tevo Tornado)! When I measure the resistance of the old cartridge, it is 40 Ohms and the new one is 4 Ohms. I would like to replace it but really don't know how to do with the 8-pin connector...
I don't know if the new hot end is for 12 V or for 24 V power supply but I thought it was not a problem anyway with my 24 V supply... I am completely lost here...
Could you help me with this issue?
See e.g. this question
A heater cartridge with a resistance of 4 Ohms (including the cables) is designed for use with a 12 Volt system. When installed on a 12 Volt system, it will have a power output of around 40 Watts. This will increase to 160 Watts if it is installed on a 24 Volt system.
This means I can burn my system, right ?
Is there any possibility to adapt this one ? I thought to use a 12 V on a 24 V was possible, but not the opposite.
@saphozzo Yes. That power level is dangerous. Use a 24V heater cartridge.
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19317 | Prints on bed are missing parts
I'm new to 3D printing, I have printed the cat that comes on the SD card on my Ender 3 and it's amazing the level of detail. After that, I tried to print another figure and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I don't even know what to search for troubleshooting images because none of those seems similar to my problem.
I used Ultimaker Cura to generate the G-code, it's the same filament, good (I think) bed leveling with 50 °C and nozzle at 200 °C. Is something wrong with the printer? Or is it the configuration of my G-code and what parameters do I need to check?
The next images are:
my first cat (nice print)
what I want to print
what I actually print
What is the filament diameter you sliced the object with?
@0scar: That was my first thought too - the classic Ultimaker 2.85 mm bug. But the base looks okay-ish. So I wonder if there isn't heat creep or failure to unretract from using really bad retraction settings.
@sadak: Perhaps you could post the sliced gcode somewhere (with a link to it) for us to look at and see if it's wrong in any obvious ways.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE That was my second guess based on the answer of the 2.85 mm.
There are two big areas of difference between the successful sample print and the model you're failing to print: geometry and how it's sliced.
First, geometry. The sample print looks detailed, but if you actually think about it, each cross section until you get to the ears at the very top is just a single, mostly smooth loop, whose shape differs very subtly from one layer to the next. (And indeed, when you get to the ears, it doesn't look good anymore - there's bad stringing from missing or wrong retraction.) This is the easiest type of object to 3D print, and there's a reason they chose it as the sample - it's hard to get wrong, and it looks nice.
The tabletop mini style figure, on the other hand, has a lot of (very small!) disconnected components in each cross section once you get past the base. Printing these accurately (or even successfully at all) requires your printer to be able to stop the extrusion, move the print head to a different location, and resume extrusion there, without losing material to oozing on the way or skipping/jamming when it restarts. This is perfectly doable to an Ender 3, but it requires good instructions from the slicer.
That's where we get to the next part of what's different: slicing. The sample print was sliced for you with Creality's preferred options to show off the printer's capabilities (and they didn't do a very good job at that - see the stringing at the top, which a properly sliced print on an Ender 3 should not have). Yours you sliced yourself, with whatever profile came with Cura. Even if the stock slicing profile they provide is fairly good, this is a really difficult print (see geometry above) and will require a good bit of work to figure out how to print it successfully. It probably needs some supports, and needs retraction tuned well, and probably needs combing limited.
I could go into details for how to go about finding the right options for this print, but I think you really need to start with something much simpler. I know I did the same kind of thing (looking for fancy models and trying them) when I first got my Ender 3, but it ended up being frustrating and took a lot longer to figure out what I was doing wrong than it would have if I started out with things like boring cylinders or calibration cubes. Start really simple. That way you can get to know how the slicer works, what options are available and how they affect what the printer does, and most importantly do an overall sanity check that it's slicing right for your printer. (Cura used to have a bug where it always wanted to reset to the wrong filament diameter, 2.85 rather than 1.75, which gave extremely underextruded prints, and parts of your failure look like that may be what happened, but I doubt it is since I think that behavior was fixed a couple years ago.)
In slicing and printing some simple test pieces, you'll probably find you have questions about what's not going the way you expect. Ask those. Then, once you get the problems worked out, start trying more elaborate prints, and ask more questions when you run into problems with them. After getting past very basic checks, a good next stage would be "nontrivial objects that don't need supports".
That print is not possible on an FDM 3D printer. Period. Only a resin printer can pull off something as complicated as that. Perhaps a dual extruder with water-soluble support material will be able to pull it off, but even then you will have to scale the model up at least 2x, as the details are simply too small.
I'm a 3D printing veteran and I wouldn't even attempt something like that on an Ender 3. It's just not possible.
As for the first print, your retraction speed is too low. If that doesn't help remove the stringing, increase your retraction amount too.
The Cura Ender 3 profile will not give you that print. It's a very safe profile. And that print was failing from the start long before it had any complexity to speak of.
So it's the printer or the filament. Hard to tell which without more detail. It looks like it was failing from the first layer. So do some research on what a first layer should look like and troubleshoot from there.
Also doublecheck you are using the right Cura profile for your filament type and machine.
I have to say, the cat print doesn't look very good either.
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19265 | Ender 3D Pro extruder stepper motor shaft length
My stock extruder motor feed mechanism had started to shave the filament but not feed correctly. I order a REDREX Tech dual gear all-metal extruder to fix the problem. I ordered a hobby gear puller, removed the press-fit brass gear, and now have yet another problem. The shaft on the Ender 3D Pro is not long enough on the stepper motor to ensure the grub screw engages at the proper height with the idler gear. I'm anticipating having to shave a flat spot on the shaft (with a Dremel Tool) to ensure the grub screw does not hinder the 360-degree rotation of either of the two gears but now need to know how to order a motor with a shaft long enough to do this.
The literature that accompanied the REDREX Tech showed a 22 mm shaft height. I checked this with my digital micrometer and found I only have 13.5 mm of the shaft on this Creality-provided OEM stepper motor. So how or where may I order a replacement stepper motor with the shaft longer by about 10-12 mm? Does the stepper motor 42-40 need to be a 42-50 where the second set of digits is the required extra 10 mm length of the shaft?
Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Hardware recommendations or where to buy are out of scope for this site. What is in scope is the naming of the steppers in relation to the overall height.
How long did the stock extruder last?
Steppers are sized by the dedicated standards, for a NEMA 17 stepper (most frequently used in 3D printers) the width and depth are 42 mm. This is the 42 from the designated naming found by Creality steppers (42-40, 42-50, 42-60, etc.).
The second set of digits in the naming relates to the stepper body height (in the image below, this is the L dimension), not the overall height! The shaft has its own dimensions, usually these are about 22 mm, but Creality has ordered custom made steppers with shorter shafts with press fitted filament extruder gears (see Problems with stock gear with no screw on Ender 3 pro).
Does the stepper motor 42-40 need to be a 42-50 where the second set of digits is the required extra 10 mm length of the shaft?
No, the second set of digits doesn't relate to the overall height of the stepper.
Do note that the naming is short for the model number which is usually much longer, e.g. JK42HS40-1004AC-01F, you see the width/depth and length back in the model name. Note that generally speaking, larger length steppers create more torque, the longer the motor the higher the torque (exceptions apply when different gauge wiring in the stepper is used).
The following image gives an overview of the steppers used by Creality models. As can be seen, they do not always use the typical D-shaft steppers, but also steppers with round shafts, this makes it more difficult to attach pulleys with grub screw without creating a flat spot on the shaft. Note that double shafts means that there is a shaft on both sides of the stepper motor, this is convenient for attaching a knob for manual positioning.
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19308 | Are there any nozzles shorter than volcano but longer than MK8?
I have a semi-diy hotend setup on my MOOZ-2 (an obscure chinese printer). It requires that the total nozzle length (including threading) is longer than 15 mm. So far, I've been using Volcano nozzles because they're the only ones I can find that meet this requirement. However I believe this negatively impacts performance because they stick out way beyond the heater block (see picture below). Unfortunately, the next size I can find are MK8 or V6 nozzles which are 13 mm - too short! Are there any nozzle sizes in between that I could use?
Have you considered using a different hotend instead, so its easier to get new nozzles?
I wish I could. My printer is only semi-diy, and I can only control the length.
Add an image of the hotend when fastened to the printer. It is quite hard to imagine that you cannot lower the heat break/heater block/nozzle. How DIY is the printer/hotend? What changed to the original printer setup?
@Oscar, it's very hard to capture in camera what's going on, but there's a plate installed below the heater block for safety that has a hole for the nozzle. Due to the air gap between it and the heat block, the nozzle must be at least 15mm long to stick out. I cannot move the motor, as the entire extruder setup is mounted inside an aluminum enclosure that I did not make. Nor can I put in a longer heatbreak, as it is the only titanium heatbreak that's M6 threaded (on both ends) that I can find. Most of the components were custom designed for the printer. The only stuff I did is in the picture.
@Rafael: Aside from being hard to find nozzles for, that sounds like an excellent design. The plate not only provides safety but should greatly aid in cooling (blocking radiant and convective heating from the block onto the part) and avoiding heat loss (same factors) from the block that would reduce flow/efficiency.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE, the plate actually contains a thin aluminum channel that blows air from a cooling fan (mounted on the side of the enclosure) directly onto the part.
Yes there are, the vendor of the printer sells 17 mm length spare nozzles for reasonable prices.
Those are actually the original nozzles, but it's 37 bucks for five with shipping, and I don't want to pay that.
@Rafael Yes they are, but they are available! Prices are very reasonable, I have nozzles that cost over 100 Euro each and e.g. Ultimaker UM 2+ 5 "nozzle pack" is 80 Euro without shipping and e.g. Bondtech CHT 20 Euro without shipping, et. If you want to buy cheap nozzles but you don't have a lathe, an M6 nut and a hacksaw will be enough to trim a Volcano nozzle (saw next to the nut). Make sure to file the threads and deburr the inner hole. With some elbow grease this should be very doable.
@Rafael If you see the prices they call for a single Ruby nozzle... 7-ish per nozzle is peanuts then.
Could you get an extender made? That would give a larger metal body to hold and conduct heat to the nozzzle tip better, and would allow you to use standard nozzles. What I'm thinking is a cylinder of around 9-12 mm diameter, with one end machined then tapped to be M6 external thread, and the other tapped as M6 internal thread, with a 2 mm hole through the center. If you know someone who has or has access to a lathe and taps, they should be able to do it for you.
It's a good idea. Unfortunately I don't have access to a lathe but perhaps there's some service that will do it.
bling hole threading is a PITA if you can't have a gutter at the end... unless you trick the construction and make a 2-parter...
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19344 | Problems with underextrusion
I have a problem with, what I think is underextrusion (see attached photos), but I'd like to ask you If my assumption is correct. If it is underextrusion could you advice me which slicer settings should I adjust?
The nozzle isn't blocked, so now I'm trying to solve the matter by increasing flow rate, but apart from that and e-step calibration I have no idea.
I have an HBot 3D 1.1 printer (it's a CoreXY style printer) which I use together with Cura. I print in PLA at 200 °C. The print bed is set to 70 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width is set to 0.4 mm from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 30 mm/s for walls and 60 mm/s for infill. My retraction is 6.5 mm off at 25 mm/s.
Two other settings I've adjusted are print jerk (from 20 to 1 mm/s) and acceleration (from 3000 mm/s² to 500 mm/s²).I've changed them to stop the printer from shaking too much.
Ok, I've messed a little with settings. Turns out that turning z-hop completely fixed the issue.
It's great that you solved your issue, but could you [edit] and expand upon your answer a little? Are you referring to the z-axis stepper driver? If so, turning in which direction?
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19355 | Circle isn't in the shape of a circle
Printer doesn't print perfect circles while calicat is perfect and top layers look weird on Ender 3 Pro:
I used Cura and an Ender 3 Pro, eSun PLA+, print at 210 °C.
Are the belts tight?
Try printing a 20mm reference cube and verify the dimensions. Also calibrate your extruder - it looks "fat" to me like there's just too much plastic.
I print the same filament at the same temperature, on an ender3 v2 so you're in the right area for temperatures.
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19358 | What is causing these severe print errors on an Ender 3?
I've noticed a lot of beginners with the Ender 3 are getting blobby prints. The default nozzle temperature with the slicer and printer is 200 °C. The filament's manufacturer's suggested nozzle temperature is 215 °C. What're the best Slic3r settings to solve this?
Here are some examples. These are supposed to be shaped roughly like a human eye. After the bottom right failure I tried doubling the default retraction distance and adding glue stick to the bed, keeping the nozzle temperature at 200 °C. The bottom left print was next. There was no severe blobbing but the nozzle still seems to have dislodged the print while transitioning from infill to the next layer's perimeter. The next print was the top one, which had +1 mm Z distance for the nozzle and increased the nozzle temperature to 215 °C.
Support material options are turned off. These prints seem to go bad within the first few layers. I've tried watching the print carefully and saw that the nozzle kept bumping the perimeter during infill. I tried a print with double-sided tape, which held the print more firmly. I finished one of the double-sided tape prints. Although most of the print was fine the first three layers are extremely harsh with very different consistency from the rest of the print. Subsequent prints get to about two inches in height then consistently fail at the same height. At about two inches the nozzle side-swipes the top layer of the perimeter. This tips the model over. The results are much as seen above. I tried a smaller model and the printer made the harsh layers then started the model but failed for the same reason, though within only a few layers.
Never had a print even remotely like that on my Ender 3 pro, there is something very very wrong going on. Try aother slicer if you think it's the slicer
From my perspective there has been basically zero help for this problem. I thought I'd be able to build the printer, plug a model in, and get a fair print that I could tune settings with. I've tried three slicing programs. Given how divergent things are I'd appreciate any guidance.
Ender 3 comes with models (some already sliced or at least mine did), and filament, did you try those? It's difficult to help when you're not giving the basic info, no idea what type of filament you're using. Have you printed anything else successfully, did you just put the printer together? etc
I just put the printer together and tried a few thingiverse models. The first print was with the included filament, which did not come with a spool and had a rough texture. The included filament broke while printing a few times. I switched filaments in case that was the problem.
Your filament changed colour? The included filament is white as far as I know. Thingiverse is not a reliable source of STL files. (You get what you paid for). From the look of your print though I'd think you may have made some assembly errors, loose belts and suchlike perhaps.
Sorry about the misleading terminology. The first print I attempted was not shown in the pic, and was with the included filament. That attempt was with the included software rather than Slic3r and had a brim. That print was straight onto the bed and cam unstuck to similar results. I used a glue stick subsequently (for the pic above) until switching to double-sided tape. I switched to a purchased P.L.A. filament that had a smooth texture around that time. The prints were still coming out strange so I posted here. After posting here I was able to get this model to complete. Others have failed.
@kilisi If you have advice on what assembly error I may have made I would like to know so I can focus my efforts on fixing that issue. I'm already planning to get a piece of glass to print on just so I can rule out a warped bed. (The bed seems flat and level.)
Glass works well, I use it on mine sometimes. Nothing special just a broken louvre. But that doesn't seem to be the problem. I don't use anything to hold the PLA down. Sometimes you just need to play with the bed height a fraction. And check the belts
Your skirt shows a zig-zag shape. This hints to a nozzle that is too far from the bed. Please update the question to include the other prints you talk about and a photo while printing showing in detail the nozzle in respect to the bed.
First of all, I would make sure that my bed is properly leveled. Download one of the bed level tests and keep adjusting until you get good, slightly smooshed lines. It's possible that the nozzle was too low but it's hard to say.
You might also want to look into changing your Z-offset (Ender 3 sometimes can have a slightly warped bed). The easiest way to adjust it is probably downloading Cura slicer, clicking on Marketplace > Plugins, and downloading a free Z-offset plugin. Then you can adjust your offset under build plate adhesion settings and, while we are on the subject, if your print falls over try printing with the Brim turned on.
Another reason might be a partially clogged nozzle, if you have an Ender machine you probably also got a bag with all the extra bits. It should have a needle-like piece of wire you can use to unclog your hot end.
You could also try some settings that limit the amount of time printhead travels over previously finished areas like Combing mode and Z-hop.
If your problems are indeed caused by wrong retraction settings try printing a retraction tower test. You could download the "Calibration Shapes" plugin for Cura. If you do so, under the Extensions tab you should see "Calibration Shapes". Select retraction tower to place it, then click on Extensions > Post-processing > Modify G-code > Add script > Retract tower. Adjust distance and speed in separate tests.
Alternatively, you can download a retraction tower model and use support blockers to create volumes with different print parameters (place a blocker so it overlaps with your model, under Per Model Settings select Modify settings for overlaps, load whatever parameters you like, and adjust them)
Poke your printbed to check if it has a wobble because it shouldn't, also if your printer shakes violently while at work you could lower your speed/acceleration/jerk settings. I'm theorizing but I think it could cause similar issues, though for me it was only ever a problem in direct drive printers, which would make sense because of bigger printhead inertia.
This is good advice, it could be the issue is related to adhesion, the question must become clearer, but this is a good primer!
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19331 | Severe blobbing prevents printing. What settings can I change to fix this?
Bought a new printer. When this problem has happened anywhere from the third to the twentieth layer up. An excess of filament suddenly exits the nozzle, often pulling the print from the bed when the nozzle moves away. The only advice I've found so far is that the nozzle or hotend may have damage, but I didn't find any when removing them to examine them. I've tried a few different ranges of settings. Guidance would be appreciated.
I'm using a Creality Ender 3 with out-of-the-box equipment and slicing with the most recent Creality Print version. Settings are default (bed: 70 °C and hot end: 200 °C).
Here's what I get if I set everything to default, switch filament spool, and use a .gcode file that was sent in-box from the manufacturer. There was not really ever anything printed, since the blob was stuck to the nozzle and was dragged around in three dimensions until I stopped the printer.
Are you using any kind of adhesion for the surface of the bed? How did you tram ("level") your bed?
I've tried both a glue stick and an adhesive tape. I adjusted the distance and retraction a bit away from the bed to see if the tape needed room. The tallest portion of a print I've had was about an inch an a quarter, which ended with a baseball-sized cloud of cotton candy filament next to the incomplete print.
I followed the instructions that came in the box on how to level the bed.
More information would be useful, to narrow the possible causes, but consider to perform an extrusion step check. This involves marking the filament at the most convenient location. This would be at the top of the extruder on a direct drive system, at the removed bowden tube for a non-direct drive system or at the entrance to the bowden tube on the same time of system. Mark also a specific distance, often 10 mm or 100 mm and then command an extrusion of that distance.
Perform this with the extruder positioned a suitable distance from the bed, to avoid collection around the nozzle.
Compare the amount moved by the extruder with the marks created. This will determine if you have extruder step mismatch.
This requires a means to communicate with the printer, either via manually created g-code on the card or via appropriate software while connected to the printer via USB.
If I don't concentrate on the blob, but on the rest of the print of first posted image, it can be concluded that the initial distance of the nozzle to the bed is too large. This causes adhesion problems and buildup of material like a blob.
Dial in the correct nozzle to bed distance using a piece of paper and depending on the bed surface an adhesion product.
That's not excessive Filament, it is "blobbing".
Blobbing happens in several cases, but the most common are:
The printed filament is deposited too hot on other hot filament, resulting in the filament to get dragged behind and create a bead of molten plastic that hardens out as a long blob.
A typical reason for this would be to print a thin cylinder of a vers small diameter without forcing a break in between the layers. The best example I have for you is a 6mm outer diameter hollow cylinder with exactly 2 perimeters (one inner, one outer). If this is printed continuously, this item can be brought reliably to blob.
If the printhead crosses over already printed but not adhering filament on the bed, it can pick up that filament, gathering a blob at the nozzle by accumulation. That is most likely what happened on the photo.
The model might be defective creating areas that induce blobbing.
A bad slicer solution and settings can induce in blobbing.
I strongly suggest to use either PrusasSlicer (a Slic3r derivate) or Ultimaker Cura, from which Creality Print diverges. Note, 70 °C bed temperature for PLA is excessive -> 50 °C are more than enough usually.
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19212 | Anet A8 inaccurate printing
I'm trying to print this with an Anet A8
It's supposed to be completely cylindrical but it's printing it all wobbly and with edges.
I'm a complete noob with 3D printing, so any tips would be highly appreciated
Consider to print a calibration test cube to determine if you have an X axis problem or a Y axis problem. This will help narrow the focus of troubleshooting. Also provide speeds and temperatures and material specifications, i.e., PLA, 60 mm/sec, 60 °C bed, 200 °C nozzle. Probably unrelated, but often useful.
When your belts are not tight enough or there is friction, you get these problems with positioning, please look into the belt tension and comment back if so, I will then post an answer.
Definitely print a calibration cube first. If print one with a bit of a brim, you can often tell a lot by how the rounded corners of the brim look as well. Saves you from having to print a calibration cylinder :-)
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19234 | Hotend melting mount
I have an old custom 3D printer that I bought a new hotend for since the old one broke, and apparently, I made a mistake.
The old hotend had insulation on it that prevented it from melting the mounting point on the printer itself, but the new one is all metal.
When I heated up the new head for the first time it melted the mounting point and fell out.
When is the best solution for my case?
Is there some insulation I can put on the new head? I can't find another insulated head anywhere.
Adding photos of the old and new hotend could be beneficial for answering the question.
As stated, photos would help us understand better... couldn't use reuse the insulation from the old hotend, i.e. cannibalise it?
I assume that the mounting plate is plastic (hopefully metal isn't melting), but this may be good information to include. Does your hot end have a cooling fan? Usually the heat break has a fan. Perhaps this could help (though I doubt it).
Hotends need insulation. Not just to prevent melting the mounting bracket, but:
To prevent heat loss to the air, especially with part cooling fans active, that could reduce the ability to heat or even trigger thermal runaway protection from complete inability to increase temperature beyond a point.
To prevent dumping heat on the printed part, which fights with your part cooling fan and greatly diminishes its effectiveness.
At the very least, the heater block needs a silicone sock. You can also use high temperature ceramic fiber or "rock wool" insulation like you'd use for an oven or kiln, and/or just layers of aluminum foil (which reflects a lot of the heat, while air pockets between layers provide insulation).
To find an appropriate sock for your hotend, search for its model name together with "silicone sock". You can also make your own using high-temperature RTV silicone (for example Permatex 81878) and a mold if you have a block with odd dimensions that nobody seems to be selling socks for.
In your question you mentioned "all metal". In the context of hotends, "all metal" generally doesn't mean that there is no non-metal insulation or other material attached or that it's not okay to attach such, just that there is no PTFE or other material that can't handle high temperatures in direct contact with the hot parts. It's perfectly reasonable (and necessary) to put proper insulation on an all-metal hotend.
depends... you can safely mount the coldend of the hotend (aka cooler body) to a plastic mount, if the cooling body below properly gets rid of the heat - such as in the e3D v6 design
@Trish: If the plastic is something that can withstand at least some minor warmth, and the hot part is sufficiently far away, I think you're right that it will work. But I still maintain it's a bad idea to run without insulation, regardless of whether (but especially if) you have a plastic mount. It will harm your printing performance (as described in my answer) and it probably makes failure conditions somewhat more severe.
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19184 | Remove irrelevant menu from Marlin 2.0
I'm using a Velleman K8400 with a Velleman LED strips. The strips aren't able to adjust luminosity only color, so the Custom Lights menu item is irrelevant to my printer. How do I remove the menu item? I can see how to easily add menus and items, but not much reference as to how to remove them.
Based on your hardware configuration and the firmware setup of your Configuration.h, the LED menu will be made available through the menu_led.cpp sources. Apparently, this work for you already considering you see too many entries.
To disable entries, you need to disable these in the afore mentioned code file.
To find where this menu is added to the configuration of the LCD menu structure you could search (the GitHub.com website provides a powerful search tool to search within the sources of projects) for the "Custom Lights" menu caption in the Marlin sources to find this caption is used by constant MSG_CUSTOM_LEDS, see the language translation file language_en.h
LSTR MSG_CUSTOM_LEDS = _UxGT("Custom Lights");
Now searching for the MSG_CUSTOM_LEDS constant will lead you to the file menu_led.cpp; more specific, this line:
SUBMENU(MSG_CUSTOM_LEDS, menu_led_custom);
If you disable this line, recompile the firmware and upload it to your controller board you would see that the submenu has disappeared.
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18834 | Ender 3 inconsistent Z homing
I have an Ender 3 with an MKS GEN L V2.0 with Marlin firmware and a BLTouch.
When I first turn it on, it homes all axes correctly but after the first print it thinks the z axis is off anywhere from .02 to .06 mm when really it still homes to 10 mm.
What would be causing this? As you can see in the picture it thinks it's at 9.94 mm when it's really at 10 mm after homing.
Is this the position directly after leveling, i.e. the state of the machine after G29; I read you say after the first print, do you mean a completed print or the leveling of the first print? What does the state of this display express? Is this after printing an object of 10 mm high?
The height after leveling is determined by the firmware configuration.
#define Z_AFTER_HOMING 10 // (mm) Height to move to after homing Z
After G29 the display of my machine doesn't show 10 mm either, it shows 11.8 mm instead:
The difference is exactly the Z-probe offset (trigger point to nozzle distance + paper thickness).
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18904 | How does Cura slice the bottom layers in vase (spiralize) mode?
Cura 4.x doesn't seem to honor normal bottom/skin settings when slicing in vase (spiralize) mode, and does something weird where it alternates at each layer between filling the skin region with lines (like a normal bottom layer) and doing concentric fill for some number of loops before switching to lines. The Cura 5.x beta (Arachne) seems to use just concentric fill. Is the behavior documented anywhere, and is there any way to tune or override it? I'm hitting problems with the concentric part not being sufficiently water-tight (while normal lines fill in alternating directions is always water-tight for me).
I build CuraEngine myself from source, so answers citing where this logic lives in the source would be acceptable for me (so I could just change it there) if there's no better configurability.
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18884 | XYZ da Vinci 2.0 Duo Y-axis slipping
I have a "da Vinci 2.0 Duo" that when I start a print or jog is okay. But when it finishes the brim, it starts to slip on the Y-axis, the print then begins to shift farther back and it happens again in the same spot making it like multiple shadows. I have checked the belt tension and connections but nothing has worked
Could you [edit] in a photo so we can see what exactly is happening? This will help to find a solution to the problem.
This sounds like layer shifting, good that you checked the belt, maybe adding a photo may help to diagnose the issue!
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18869 | Extruder Motor knocking backwards and forwards even when removed
I was printing something using TPU via my Micro Swiss extruder and hot end on my Creality CR-10. Unfortunately the filament started squeezing out of the extruder because the nozzle was too close to the bed.
I raised the Z-axis, kept the nozzle heated, and retracted filament. I had to go backwards and forwards a bit and ended tugging quite hard to finally get the filament removed.
When I loaded filament again (any type) I just got a knocking sound but no movement.
I removed the extruder motor and tried driving it again and it was just making a small step forwards and backwards continually while trying to extrude or retract.
I ordered a new extruder motor and fitted it today but found it was doing exactly the same. I am using the EZBoard Lite from TH3D and am worried that I might have damaged the stepper driver. Has anyone got any advice about what I can try next? It was printing fine, with well calibrated E-steps prior to the TPU filament problem, so I can't believe this is in any way related to a firmware/settings problem. I would appreciate any ideas, particularly if anyone knows whether a stepper driver can be replaced on the TH3D EZBoard Lite. Yes, of course I am heating the nozzle.
Did you completely unassembled the extruder so that you only tested the bare stepper with no other parts attached? The question is not clear enough about that.
You've not noted if the Bowden tube was connected to the hot end during your testing process. Consider to disengage the Bowden tube at the hot end/carriage and command an extrusion. This will tell you which side of the tube should be checked.
If the stepper motor feeds filament with the tube disconnected, the problem is in the nozzle. Ensure to heat the nozzle prior to removing it. Exercise appropriate hot item caution. Alternatively, perform a nylon cold pull cleaning process, but that works best with nylon.
If the stepper motor does not feed filament with the tube disconnected, your focus on the stepper driver may be accurate, especially considering the replacement you've performed.
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18906 | I'm having a weird issue with bed leveling (Z-Axis) ?? Ender 3 V2
I'm having a weird issue with bed leveling (Z-Axis) ?? Ender 3 V2
Every time I try to level it when I go to the bottom left corner and so on and come back to that corner the Z-axis drops about .1 mm each go around. It used to drop more than that, this is the lowest I've got it to drop by and can't stop it.
Still nothing, I squared everything off with a T-square and tightened everything precisely.
I watched these and did one by one:
I did what this site recommended which was part of the first video:
https://3dsolved.com/ender-3-x-axis-sagging-how-to-solve/
Mind you I've checked numerous sites and videos and these explained everything properly and were the most up-to-date.
I ordered another Z-axis making it a dual and seeing if that will fix the problem.
Do you still have stock bed springs and knobs?
No I've switched them out a while ago. I have new gold springs, about a week old. The weird thing is I've started printing again and everything prints normally. Only in bed leveling the z axis sags
SOLVED just add another z axis, printed a spacer for the bottom of the z motors at 1.4mm and leveled both sides with corner levels(post pipe levels) from lowes. Add a washer to the nuts towards the back side inside of the new z axis lead screw bracket and done. No more sag https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RJDW5W6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The extra Z-axis did help but it was all the eccentric nuts. Make sure you can move them with little force, not you trying to open a bottle of soda but a little lighter than that
I solved the issue by just adding another Z-axis, I also printed a spacer for the bottom of the Z motors at 1.4 mm and leveled both sides with corner levels (post pipe levels) from Lowes. Add a washer to the nuts towards the backside inside of the new Z-axis lead screw bracket and done. No more sag.
Creality Ender 3 Accessories Dual Z-Axis Kit
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18910 | What is the maximum input ratings for current, voltage and power for RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 and 1.6?
I need to know the maximum input for current, voltage and power for:
RAMPS 1.4
RAMPS 1.5
RAMPS 1.6
I want to build a DIY 3D printer. RAMPS 1.6 can deliver only 270 W. but if I total my heatbed + hotend + other components, it will be 300 W which exceeds the amount of RAMPS 1.6 output.
I have 24 V 24.5 A power supply. Is it okay if I connect it to RAMPS 1.6?
I guess the heated bed is the main power consumer here, if this is drawing more than 10 A you definitely need to insert an external MOSFET, these are cheap external modules that can handle even larger currents than the board itself. Found easily on those typical online market places.
P.S. RAMPS shields on top of AtMega Arduino boards are pretty outdated, they will work, but there are plenty of other boards available to choose from. You should look into 32-bit microprocessor boards.
Furthermore, this question should be reworded, instead of focusing on the RAMPS 1.x board differences, you should focus on the real question where you are interested in: "How to get more power from a board than they are rated for?" or "The current required for my printer exceed the current ratings of my controller board, how can I mitigate this?".
And change the title to reflect that fact...
“maximum input for current” doesn’t make sense. You could connect the board to a 10000A power supply, but the board will only draw ~12A. Also RAMPS is ancient tech.
@Navin - good catch, that should probably be "maximum output". I hadn't noticed that.
RAMPS power consumption
The power consumption for all three versions of the board should be, essentially, the same.
RAMPS 1.4
The info is on the RepRapWiki - RAMPS 1.4 - Power supply:
The board has two pairs of connectors for power, one labeled 11A and the other 5A, both of these pairs are 12V connections.
and
Your power supply should be able to deliver 16 amps, is ok if it delivers more.
and
Other variants are the S-480 and S-600 for 480W and 600W respectively.
So, $I = 16 A$, $V = 12 V$
You can then calculate the power from $$P = IV$$
$$P = 16 x 12$$
$$P = 192 W$$
Alternatively, considering each circuit in isolation:
$I_1=11 A$ for the heated bed only;
$I_2=5 A$ for the stepper motors, hotend, etc.
$$P_1 = I_1V$$
$$P_1 = 11 x 12$$
$$P_1 = 132 W$$
and
$$P_2 = I_2V$$
$$P_2 = 5 x 12$$
$$P_2 = 60 W$$
so the overall power consumption,
$$P_T = P_1 + P2$$
$$P_T = 132+60$$
$$P_T = 192W$$
Important note: While the overall power may indeed be 192 W, it is important that you only draw the maximum individually rated current/power (5 A and 11 A) from each of the respective circuits - you can not draw 16 A (192 W) from just one of the circuits alone. To attempt to do so would be dangerous and may result in a fire or worse.
RAMPS 1.5
From RepRapWiki - RAMPS 1.5
The layout of the RAMPS 1.5 is virtually identical to that of the RAMPS 1.4. The only real difference between the two are the MOSFETs and the fuses.
Only the form and type of the fuses are different, not their ratings. Therefore, the voltage and current specifications would appear to be the same as RAMPS 1.4
RAMPS 1.6
From RepRapWiki - RAMPS 1.6
It maintains the surface-mounted fuses and flush MOSFETS of the RAMPS 1.5.
Therefore, the voltage and current specifications would appear to be the same as RAMPS 1.4
Note that there are other variants of the RAMPS board that you may need to consider, such as the 24 V version and so forth.
Supplying additional current and/or power
Using an External MOSFET
To draw more current than the RAMPS can supply for the various heating elements, you could use an externally switched circuit (whose MOSFETS are triggered by the RAMPS outputs), in place of the RAMPS outputs, to supply this additional current.
See Modify RAMPS 1.4 adding external MOSFET for heat bed: can I remove original mosfet? which links to the excellent Howto Connect your Hotbed (and or extruder) to a Mosfet:
External MOSFET schematic
Apply a second PSU ( 12 or 24 volts)
Apply a second MOSFET (for the extruder)
See also MOSFET Band Aid in 0scar's answer to Which 3D printer controller should I use?:
Power consumption rethink
Alternatively, and probably better, rethink your power consumption, so that it matches that which can be supplied by the RAMPS board. Your current draw, and hence power requirement, shouldn't need to be so high.
24 V capable RAMPS
Another alternative is to get a RAMPS which can handle 24 V, which, whilst not supplying more current, will provide you with more power (approximately twice as much). However, this may require that you get a different set of heating elements (if your current set isn't dual voltage capable) - which obviously isn't ideal and will entail even more expense. See Do I have to buy all new components if I were to get a RAMPS 1.4 that supports 24 V power?
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19011 | MKS-SBASE V1.3 Marlin Stepper Motor Current
I have an MKS-SBASE V1.3 with integrated stepper motor drivers, but they don't have a physical way to change the current. I know there is a way to update the DRV8825 stepper current through Marlin, but I can't find it. Is it located in the advance configuration tab, or is a G-code I need to use?
MKS makes inferior products. Beware that Smoothieware has released a statement why MKS hardware users should ask MKS support first.
From "WHAT IS WRONG WITH MKS ?":
They use DRV8825 stepper drivers which are much more prone to loosing steps than Allegro or Trinamic drivers
DRV8825 driver current cannot be changed from firmware like e.g. Marlin, Trinamic drivers can, but they are not installed on the board.
The MKS SBASE 1.3 has a potentiometer to set the current of each of the stepper drivers.
Don't see a physical potentiometer? That's correct! There are electronic potentiometers on the board. If you're using stock firmware: I can't tell you how to change it, but it must be possible. I'm using klipper and it has a section that by default sets the current to 1.0 A.
Your answer could be improved with additional supporting information. Please [edit] to add further details, such as citations or documentation, so that others can confirm that your answer is correct. You can find more information on how to write good answers in the help center.
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19041 | Getting a "no printer attached" error after hotend swap out
I have an Artillery Sidewinder X1 that had a stripped-out screw. I couldn't find a single screw anywhere and opted to replace the entire hot end, screws, fans, and everything. Should have been pretty easy, and was - 3 screws and a ribbon cable. Now when I turn on the printer I get the "no printer attached error" on the TFT display.
I've searched Google and can find no help there.
Any ideas would be gratefully accepted!
Firmware: RAWR 28.x
Board: TFT version Artillery (stock)
Hi welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Please describe which application throws the no printer attached message, or is this the printer display? Long shot, but are you sure the flat cable is connected and properly inserted?
Sorry if I'm not very clear, but of course I'm new here. This is a stock 18 month old Artillery Sidewinder X1, with the exception of the RAWR firmware which has been working perfectly. I had problems with the hotend hardware and just replaced the whole thing. As I mentioned above, it was just 3 screws and the ribbon cable. Should have been easy. Now when I turn on the printer I get the "no printer attached error" on the TFT display. I appreciate your comment and it has me wondering if there is a problem with the ribbon cable. Shouldn't be but I'll check. I open to any ideas you have!
Just to eliminate errors, maybe you could use the ribbon cable from the old hotend to check. Also, and this would be a right pain admittedly, as a sanity check maybe just temporarily wire back in the old hotend to see if the old hotend assembly (now) gives the same error (as previously it presumably didn't). After that, it could be a process of elimination, swapping each part in turn, checking to see which new part is causing the issue. Also, possible disassembly and reassembly might magically fix any dodgy connection or wiring that occurred during the initial swap out. Just some thoughts...
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18938 | Can you use OctoPrint on an Ender 5 pro with the stock firmware?
Is it possible to use OctoPrint with an Ender 5 Pro that is still using the factory default firmware (any version) from Creality, or is changing the firmware an absolute pre requisite for even basic functionality.
This is for a situation where there are a dozen Ender 5 printers on lease hire, and no unauthorised modifications are permitted.
Yes, OctoPrint is a print server which works independently from the controller board hardware. It simply sends commands to the printer. If you have a USB socket on the controller board and know the communication speed you can connect the printer to OctoPrint.
It will not work if the printer has a faulty or no USB connection. From an internet search it appears that the economical Ender hardware does have some issues with USB, but in theory you should be able to connect.
You only need to flash the Ender 5 controller board if you want to use Klipper firmware and use the OctoPrint Klipper plugin.
Here is a video showing how to setup OctoPrint in conjunction with an Ender 5:
I'm at that pi case because, mounted on a printer, it's just asking for screws, nuts, clips, etc. that get dropped during maintenance or rattle loose to fall on the pi and short something out.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE, indeed, also not my choice! I once wrecked a Pi because a cooling element had come loose and caused a short circuit...
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19048 | Stepper motors on the extruder and Z-axis seem to freeze up during any fast movements
OK here's some background of the problem:
Symptoms:
All retracts on the extruder produce a screeching noise. The extruder extrudes normally all other times.
Any fast move on the Z-axis also produces a screeching noise and the Z-axis will move normally at all other times.
This appears to happen regardless of any printing state whether the heaters are on or not it will still occur it even happens during the ABL process.
Specifications of the printer:
Mainboard: MKS Gen L V2
Drivers: TMC2209 UART
Stepper motors: Stepperonline 17HS15-1504S 1.8 deg 1.5A
Pulleys: GT2 16T
Leadscrew: 2 mm pitch T8
Hotend: E3D V6
OK so basically I performed an upgrade of my stepper drivers as well as the leadscrew and pulleys on my 3D printer which was originally a Tevo tornado and at the start of every print I would experience a loud screeching noise coming from the Z-axis and I originally identified it to be a single line in my G-code that would only trigger the screech if it was preceded by another line and by commenting out the first line I was able to start printing
Lines in question:
G1 X3 Y1 Z15 F9000 ; Move safe Z height to shear strings
G0 X1 Y1 Z0.2 F9000 ; Move in 1mm from edge and up [z] 0.2mm
However, while I was able to start printing, I soon found out that the extruder was doing the same thing with every retract it would create a loud screech and the filament wouldn't be retracted this caused heavy stringing as well as poor layer adhesion resulting in prints failing. I figured the problem was with the version of Marlin I was using so I attempted to use the latest bug fix. However, I was still experiencing the same problems. I attempted to see if the stepper current was the problem and after identifying that the stepper current was not the cause of the problem, I figured I needed to replace the stepper motors and after replacing the stepper motors the problem still remained. I figured the problem must be with Marlin so I attempted to use Klipper. However, I am still experiencing the same and now I can't even complete a mesh bed leveling as the movements that Klipper uses are triggering the loud screeching and causing the steppers to freeze up.
I am unsure as to what could be causing this as I think I've checked everything that could be causing it so I'm not quite sure how to proceed I've also made a video that should show the problem in action. So I guess I'm wondering what's my next troubleshooting step?
I have tried changing the drivers back to TMC2208s there have been no changes on both Klipper and Marlin.
I tried switching to an MKS Gen L V2.1 in case it was a mainboard problem, still experiencing problems.
The only other thing I think I can try is running the TMC2209s in standalone mode
I can't find anything suspicious in the Klipper config. Aside: this isn't your issue, but the non-whole-number rotation distances for X, Y, and Z are almost surely wrong because of how timing belts and lead screws work. If you measured X and Y errors that you were trying to correct for, they're almost certainly extrusion width errors (which don't scale with object size, unlike esteps errors that would scale with object size) or backlash that needs to be fixed mechanically. Likewise Z is almost surely a bed height error.
just tried fixing that still no change.
Yes, I wasn't proposing that as a solution to your problem here, just a note about something else that will come back to bite you if you care about dimensional accuracy.
I've watched the video now, BTW, and I don't immediately have any other ideas for solving this. I'll follow up later if I think of anything else.
The maximum RPM depends on motor current. Higher current, lower max rpm.
I checked your klipper.conf and I can say that you should definitely reduce the currents for all motors. Extruder and Z motors at 0.9 A is crazy, for example. X and Y 0.7 A is enough, for Z and extruder 0.4 A is good already.
Also, you request F9000 which is impossible on that printer, therefore you are automatically limited by the firmware max speed. Try manually asking a more reasonable speed, like F2000. Keep decreasing until it works. Try decreasing the acceleration too: you have 120, try with 50 which is good already for Z moves. If it works, increase it progressively.
I haven't had time to view the video, but in general, the symptom you're seeing means you're trying to drive the stepper above the max RPM it can handle. Roughly speakling, coils (in the motor) resist a change in current, and past a certain point, a given voltage is insufficient to change the coil currents to perform a step before it's time for the next step. Typical steppers in cheap 3D printers max out around 1500-2000 RPM and lose power (meaning they'll likely work under no load) a little bit before that.
To figure out your motor RPM, multiply the axis speed (in mm/s) by steps per mm (full steps, not microsteps, so divide by number of microsteps per step) to get steps/s, then convert to rotations/min by multiplying by 60 and dividing by 200 (steps per rotation for a 1.8° stepper).
Ok so my printer worked with the same settings before at least for the extruder (can't say this about z cause of the lead screw upgrade) and my extruder steps per mm are 400 and the retract speed is 30mm/s so that would put the RPM at 3600 so I guess if that is something the TMC2209s can't handle then I might go back to the TMC2208s
@DexterGrif: Keep in mind steps/mm here means full steps not microsteps. I'll clarify that in an edit later. So it might not be as high as you calculated. 30 mm/s retract should be no problem with an ungeared extruder; only with a very high reduction ratio would that be problematic.
it is using a titan extruder so I am unsure how that changes things. also I am using 16 microsteps
@DexterGrif: That should just be 25 full steps per mm and thereby 225 RPM.
ok so the output of M203 (Max Feedrates mm/s) is:
M203 X250.00 Y250.00 Z30.00 E55.00
so the RPMs are
RPM=(((x*x_steps)*60)/200)/16
X=476.85
Y=472.5
Z=907.3
E=437.8
so that looks like it is within the limits.
@DexterGrif: Are you sure you don't have any start gcode or anything overriding those limits on a per-print basis?
Let us continue this discussion in chat.
More often than exceeding the MAX RPM, you are exceeding the instantaneous torque at the speed. The motor torque force is determined by the strength of the magnetic fields. The magnet field for the permanent magnet is fixed, but for the electrically driven magnet depends on the current through the coil. The coils are inductors, and the current must charge and discharge, similar to what we expect from capacitors. This current change is caused by the voltage applied to the coil. A higher voltage charges the current faster.
Typical stepper motors are rated at a particular current through the coils. Since the coils also have a resistance, the "voltage" of a stepper motor is just the voltage that causes the rated current through the coil resistance. $Voltage = Current * Resistance$ -- Ohm's law. This gives very slow charging, and a motor so driven won't have a high speed, and the torque will fall off quickly with speed.
Most stepper drivers drive based on the current, not the voltage. The driver monitors the current, and if it is too low, the driver applies a charging voltage. If the current is too low, it applies a discharging voltage.
The point of all this is that higher voltage is good. And the parameter that matters more than MAX RPM is the acceleration.
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19063 | Can I connect a PSU with a higher current rating than RAMPS 1.4 can handle?
I have a 12 V/30 A power supply. Will a RAMPS 1.4 shield burn if I use that power supply with it?
This question appears to be a duplicate of a question you asked back in february, which already has an answer.
The title is considered to hint to a duplicate, but the body of the question asks if a certain PSU can be connected. The answer of both questions are closely related. I think the OP doesn't understand that you could even wire up a 12 V/1000 A PSU, it is not the PSU that determines how much current is being drawn, it is the peripherals that determine this. I have proposed a new title the OP may reject.
Does this answer your question? What is the maximum input ratings for current, voltage and power for RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 and 1.6?
@0scar I want that 1000 Ampere 12 V power source - that's 12 kW!
@Trish Not as crazy as it sounds since you can use the current sharing pin on server PSUs to merge several of them into one large redundant PSU. I use three 12.2V 55A PSUs in parallel to run my desktop and in a few months I’m planning to upgrade to ~500A split across 2 PSUs and 2 breakers.
Voltage and current behave differently and it is important to remember two essential points:
PSU voltage specifications should never be exceeded, else the circuit will (most likely) be damaged, and;
PSU current specifications can be exceeded, without any risk to the circuit1.
So, if your circuit requires 12 V and 3 A, then the PSU must supply a maximum of 12 V, but current can be 5 A, 10 A or whatever.
It may help to think of it this way:
Voltage will force its way into a circuit, and if you exceed the specified requirement of that circuit, then the circuit will be damaged, for sure;
Current passively sits there and is is only taken by the circuit as it is required - if your power supply can provide 1000 A, but the circuit only needs 11 A, then the circuit will only take 11 A. The remaining 989 A will be ignored.
Note: There is one caveat, where the mismatching is reversed: If a PSU can only supply 5A, but the circuit requires 10 A, then the PSU may be damaged as the circuit attempts to draw more current than the PSU can provide.
The water analogy
You can think of electricity as similar to water in a water tank, and a tap as being the outlet/socket/circuit:
The higher the water tank is above the tap, the higher the water pressure - this water pressure is analogous to voltage. If the water pressure is excessively high, then the tap could fail, in the same way that a circuit will blow,
The larger the tank, the more water there is that can be provided - This capacity of the tank is analogous to the current. You don't have to use, or drink, all of the water in the tank, but (often) it's nice to have an excess available, even though it might be wasteful or not particularly cost effective.
Footnote
1 The only major downside to having an over rated PSU with respect to current, is that should the circuit that the PSU is supplying have a issue, such as a short circuit, then a lot more current will be drawn, than if the PSU wasn't so over rated. This could be dangerous, if, for example, you are touching part of that circuit. This is why the current rating of a PSU should closely match the current requirement of the circuit which the PSU is supplying.
Other considerations for using an over rated PSU could (arguably) include a longer life or increased reliability. This would be due to less stress being placed upon the PSU, if the current rating of the PSU is, for example 25 - 50 % greater than the current requirement of the circuit.
Yes you can connect that PSU to the RAMPS 1.4 shield, and no, it will not burn the shield under normal operation (too much and/or too high current draining peripherals attached or shorting of circuits).
It is not the PSU that determines how much current is being drawn from the PSU, it is the peripherals that determine this. The RAMPS 1.4 shield has (poly) fuses for 11 A and 5 A, so the maximum you can draw through the board is 16 A. You cannot draw more than 11 A for the heated bed, and 5 A for the hot end heater and the steppers combined. If your heated bed uses over 11 A or the rest over 5 A, the fuses will burn through cutting the circuit. These fuses are meant to protect your board from draining too much current.
Connecting a PSU with a higher current specification is perfectly fine as long as you do not exceed the board specifications with your peripherals.
In case your heated bed (which takes the majority of the power) requires over 11 A (which requires thick cables!), you need to use an external MOSFET; this doesn't add a safety, it merely allows to use more current from your PSU to power the high demanding peripherals.
No, it won't burn if you use a power supply that put out 12 Volts and tolerates up to 30 Amps.
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19126 | Program Creality v2.2 board to use HEATER1 transistor for HEATER0
My CR10-S5 with Creality v2.2 mainboard recently suffered from the hotend heater transistor (MOSFET) failing short. After taking a look at the board, I tried to be clever and use the HEATER1 output instead for my hotend. However, after swapping pins in pins_RAMPS.h, there is no response to turning on the heater. I have confirmed zero volts on the board output with a multimeter, so it shouldn't be a failed heater cartridge.
Are there any other lines of code I should be changing to get this to work? I am using TH3D Unified 2 firmware with BLTouch enabled.
Found the problem, apparently these v2.2, v2.2x boards have the HEATER1 MOSFET controlled by pin 7, not pin 9 as in default pins_RAMPS.h. After setting HEATER0 to use pin 7 everything works as expected.
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19128 | Z-axis compensation
What is the purpose of Z-axis compensation setting in the adjustment section of the Ender 6 screen panel?
Is Z-axis compensation the same thing as Z-offset?
If Z-axis compensation is the same as Z-offset, does it change each time when you do bed levelling manually?
Does Z-axis compensation setting have any influence on the successful printing of layers after the first deposited layer? If so, how?
Beenum, did 0scar's answer help you at all, or are you still looking for answers?
Generally speaking, the Z-offset is the distance between the trigger point of a Z-endstop sensor and the nozzle. But, the Z-offset can be seen as the build plate to nozzle distance, it is a modifier of the nozzle position in Z direction.
Mapping the surface of the build plate and storing the mesh to maintain a nozzle at the same distance from the build plate is considered Z-axis compensation, and is not the same as a Z-offset. These are separate things. However, the Ender 6 has 5-point assisted leveling, 4 corner and the middle of the bed. It is not capable to map the build surface as a mesh. Most probably the firmware could (as those functions are available in Marlin firmware for a long time), but the graphical LCD doesn't allow to interface with these functions of the firmware.
The Ender 6 doesn't have a Z-axis sensor (it has a Z-endstop), so automatic bed leveling is not an option and one has to do manual leveling by scanning multiple points of the build plate (as described above; 4 corners and the middle of the bed). Z-axis compensation is an offset to the level you have defined. Note the latter can be done in most slicers as well. E.g. many people like to increase the offset when printing PETG.
Should not the z-offset value be made redundant if the bed level is changed manually each time since it dictates the distance between the entire print bed and the nozzle? In manual bed leveling, the bed level on all four corners is seldom the same.
Another follow-up question is that how would I know that my z-offset for an ender 6 3D printer is not right? Whenever I perform manual bed leveling, the nozzle at position 1 (the middle position) is very close to the bed level and it is very difficult to move a piece of paper (A4 sized) from under it.
The Z-offset can be adjusted during printing with baby steps, this is optimal to tune the first layer print height during printing of the skirt or the brim. W.r.t. meshing the geometry of the build surface, please read this answer.
Ender 6 does not have the setting to alter the Z-offset during printing. This option is available in Creality CR10-Smart Pro. Do I have to update my printer's firmware to get this setting on Ender 6?
@Beenum That is tricky, your printer has 2 firmwares, one is the board itself the other is the display. You need to update both, but you need to be experienced in flashing firmware, this is a little more complicated than normal board with normal LCD displays. You can edit the Z-offset in your slicer or in G-code.
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19102 | Printer reports "printer killed" and "homing failed", what does that mean?
My Ender 3 v2 is reporting printer killed and homing failed.
Does that means that my printer is dead?
Note that I just got the printer 3 days ago and I haven't been able to do any prints.
This question doesn't provide enough context to get answers that may help you out. Please describe in detail what you are doing, which steps you have done, what file you are printing, how you obtained it. Do the axes run free when the steppers are not powered, did you check all the cables? There is a lot more you can do to troubleshoot some basics first. Do the steppers run at all, etc.? We'd love to help! But with this amount of information we need to guess. A valid question is how to troubleshoot this, please [edit] the question else this question might be closed for the lack of information.
As stated, please [edit] your question and add more info (don't add info in this comment section). Has the printer always stated these messages for the whole three days, since the moment it came out of the box? If not, and it worked initially for a while, what happened immediately before the messages appeared...? This might give a clue as to why the messages appeared in the first place. Can you communicate with the board via USB from a PC? Photos of the messages might help. What happens at power up - any motor noises, etc.?
This might help you provide more detail: Helpful Templates / Help us help you!
Have you reviewed the assembly instructions, step by step, looking for something you might have missed? Was the printer new to you or used ?
What is the last motion that it does before reporting this error? Where does the error appear - on the printer's internal display or somewhere else? It could be a video of the startup process would be informative.
Sounds like limit switches might be mis-calibrated.
your printer gained life and had to be killed as it posed a threat... joking aside, printer may have a power (motors, and not just power supply), limit switch, or other issue that prevented homing. try jogging without homing among other things like manually triggering potentially inverted limits) just to get an idea of what is operational. Be prepared to use a multimeter to debug after.
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19111 | Weird blobs all over shell
I've been trying to print parts for Voron 2.4 but I'm having issues getting proper surface on walls. I'm printing with ABS. I couldn't find same problem all over the net looking at the images. Bed adhesion is quite good and printing temp is 240 °C and bed temp is around 100 °C.
I've seen this on ABS that has been sitting around absorbing moisture. Do you see or hear moisture cooking out as you print?
That block desperately needs a sock. :-)
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19147 | BLTouch error on pronterface, nothing connected to the board
This is a brand new Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D printer. Default, it has a 3DTouch probe installed.
Printer is broken now, I couldn't use it even for a week...
In middle of a long print, our home fuse blew. I am not sure because of the printer or not. I open the fuse and printer cant start. It was stuck at restart cycle and keeps restarting. I cut the power and check for stepper drivers. They look fine. Install them again and restart the printer. Then magic smoke appeared and all drivers are dead. But printer can reach menus.
First I buy new drivers and looking for if the board is salvageable or not.
When I installed new drivers, the printer would start up, but no movement of the 3DTouch probe at startup. Its blue and red lights are constantly on.
I can manually move X, Z and E, but Y moved a little after that it became unresponsive (I tried to swap drivers, but always Y seems problematic, the drivers looks fine) .
The 3DTouch probe is not working so it can't home Z. Y cannot be homed either but I can home the X-axis. Bed and nozzle look okay; they heat up correctly. There was no error message on the printer screen. Two trees uses a custom Repetier version. This is Pronterface's error message:
Connecting...
MKS Robin Nano 1.0.0
echo: Last Updated: 2017-12-25 12:00 | Author: (none, default config)
echo:Compiled: Jan 8 2021
echo: Free Memory: 4396 PlannerBufferBytes: 1344
echo:V47 stored settings retrieved (1140 bytes; crc 10556)
echo: G21 ; Units in mm
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo: M200 D3.00
echo: M200 T1 D3.00
echo: M200 D0
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z800.00
echo: M92 T0 E430.00
M92 T1 E800.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):
echo: M203 X100.00 Y100.00 Z4.00
echo: M203 T0 E70.00
M203 T1 E70.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
echo: M201 X500 Y500 Z100
echo: M201 T0 E1000
M201 T1 E1000
echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel>
echo: M204 P500.00 R500.00 T1000.00
echo:Advanced: S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> B<min_segment_time_us> X<max_xy_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:Home offset:
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Hotend offsets:
echo: M218 T1 X-20.00 Y-5.00
echo: M420 S0
echo:Endstop adjustment:
echo: M666
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo: M851 Z-2.80
Error:STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999
Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
This sounds like a lot of problems which I wouldn't start to troubleshoot, basically there are issues with Y and the 3DTouch. You could check the 3DTouch wiring, but that doesn't fix the Y problem. I'd replace the board and buy a real BLTouch. There might be things broken beyond fixing. What makes it difficult that this printer also has a custom screen with its own firmware, it might be difficult for someone without much experience to solve this.
Thank you for the reply @0scar. I don't have much hope for the board as you mention. Can I ask you some rookie question? I feel like drivers and cpu heats up so quickly when i start to move axises. Cpu heats up even on idle 70 80 degree Celsius if i guess. Hard to touch. Drivers are tmc2209 by the way. Not sure what mode. I examine drivers they were heat up before printer broke never check cpu before incident. Do you think these are normal?
I believe the max temperature of the TMC2209 is 125 ºC. The printer uses the MKS Robin Nano board V1.2.
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19113 | How do I know if my motherboard is dead?
I have an Ender CR-10 which I recently installed a clone of a BLTouch on. It all worked fine and printed well but once when I started the printer all the pixels on the LCD were white. Then when I started the 4th time the LCD just went all black and I got no power to it. I also have a Raspberry Pi 4B which I tried connecting to the printer but it couldn't anymore.
Do I need to get a new motherboard or is there anything I can do to see where the error is so I can fix it?
I havent measured any voltage yet, I'll have to do that when I have some spare time...
Does the printer power up without the Raspberry Pi? Have you tried disconnecting the LCD and powering it on?
yes, i also removed the bl-touch from the printer and reconnected everything like it is stock. The raspberry pi doesnt do anything right now because it wont connect to the printer.
I just realise that i missunderstood that question, it doesnt work whatever i do
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18278 | Ender 3 v2 Extruder Clicking Issue
Can somebpdy help me as I’m struggling with an issue with my Ender 3 V2 extruder. The extruder is clicking after laying down the 1st layer. The machine had been running with no issues for over 4 months now, I have made various upgrades including BLTouch, tried different hot ends, etc.
I'm mainly printing TPU and have printed it with no issues using a stock Ender 3 V2. However, last week I was changing the hotend back to stock and accidentally snapped the thermistor wiring. I ordered some replacements as below and replaced the thermistor and hot end back to stock.
Comgrow Creality 3D Printer NTC Thermistor Temp Sensor 100K for Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5 / CR-10 / CR-10S
At the same time, I removed the BLTouch, and to be honest, I was finding I was getting just as good prints without it on both a 2nd and 3rd printer I have (both Ender 3 V2’s). This meant re-flashing the firmware back to stock.
So effectively, I now have a stock Ender 3, but it has developed this clicking noise from the extruder after the first layer is laid (1st layer is perfect).
I can see the TPU material getting snagged in the extruder when the clicking is occurring, so its clearly not making its way through the hotend and blocking up.
Can somebody give any advice as to why though? Everything is fine for the 1st layer but then the problem starts halfway through the 2nd or 3rd layer?
I have calibrated my extruder steps (after re-flashing) and they changed from 93 to 114 (which seemed a big change).
I'm printing the TPU at 205 °C, and even taking the same file to my other 2 printers has no issue, so I’m not sure what has changed?
If somebody can give any advice, it would be most welcome!
You probably have a bed leveling issue. It sounds like you get to a point where there's sufficiently more material already placed than room for it to fit into, and subsequent extrusion becomes impossible (after some give from bed springs, etc.). If not that, if your cooling fan is coming on at layer 2, it might be that you have problem with insufficient heating, and temperature is dropping too much from the fan blowing incorrectly over the heater block.
Very likely the clicking is from the TPU slipping in the extruder driver gear.
TPU needs a much slower speed than other plastics, make sure you are using an extrusion speed that is reasonable for TPU.
Assuming you are extruding TPU at the correct speed, there are many reasons that could cause the extruder to get clogged. A few might include:
too small of clearance between the nozzle and the preceding layer (or not enough height above the bed for the initial layer)
debris in the nozzle (especially if you are switching plastics with a higher melting point or a lower char point)
too low of a temperature (i.e., melted plastic is too viscous)
gap inside the extruder between the Bowden tube and the hot end causing molten plastic to back up and solidify and bind with the cold filament
Other questions here may answer the clogging issue better.
Yes, the extruder drive gear will also click when it can't push PETG through.
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18267 | Print Nozzle Type vs Heat Requirement
I recently went to a stainless steel nozzle for printing. What I found is it required significantly more heat to print PLA than I was used to. I'm not sure if the PLA itself (a brand I'd never used before) was to blame or if the nozzle properties was causing the needed increase. By an increase in heat needed, I'm used to printing PLA in the 190 °C (+/-5 °C). What I'm using right now to prevent stringing and to get good layer adhesion, I'm having to print at 220 °C.
My question is, does nozzle material typically affect the amount of heat needed to print or should we expect heat shouldn't need to be changed? If the nozzle material does affect it, is there any "rules of thumb" to go by on what to expect?
As the answer mentions, brass conducts the heat better. But keep in mind, the temperature sensor measurement is at a specific point. It's also possible the lower heat conductivity means the entire nozzle isn't up to temp yet, and if what would happen if you were to preheat the steel nozzle to the original, lower print temp, and then hold it there an extra few minutes before beginning the print.
@JoelCoehoorn - Well, I don't think the extra minutes would do much good. We're talking about prints which take several hours (9+) to complete. I was still getting a lot of stringing and having issues with layer separation throughout the print until I turned the heat up.
Thermal conductivity is the factor to consider in this question. Cost and wear play a part in determining nozzle material selection as well.
According to The Engineering Toolbox, stainless steel has a conductivity (k) between 14.3 and 14.4 with other stainless steel alloys not showing better than 20. Brass (most common nozzle material) lists between 61 and 121, substantially higher.
Of course, one notes the caution with abrasive filament that a brass nozzle will wear.
PrintedSolid has a great photo of a worn brass nozzle sliced in half, against a steel version:
If one considers that a slower heat transfer gives the device (nozzle) more time to radiate heat to the environment than to pass it along to the filament, the higher temperature makes sense.
Some gemstones have a high thermal conductivity. There are ruby and sapphire nozzles available, providing greater wear resistance without the loss of thermal conductivity.
Regarding a rule of thumb? I have not seen concrete references to what factor to use with temperature increases.
The higher thermal resistance not only needs more heat, but it also takes longer for the heat to conduct, so the control system for the heater needs a longer reaction time to add more heat. The longer reaction time can cause temperature excursions both above and below the ideal extrusion temperature.
+1 for the nice photo, very interesting... however, it is not clear whether each nozzle saw the same amount of use (i.e. meters (or grams) of filament). It might be worth adding that the E3D blog states that 250g XT-CF20 (carbon fibre) was used on both.
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18183 | Steel heatbed - White stains after cleaning with IPA
So, I'm new at 3D printing and I've tried cleaning my new 3D printer's steel heated bed with Isopropyl Alcohol and it left some very nasty white marks all over the bed.
I tried cleaning it off with water and dish soap but it didn't work.
Is there anyway to clean it?
Is my bed ruined?
I'm using the stock Biqu-B1 steel heated bed.
Is this your build plate? If so, it says it comes with a powder coating, is this coating now showing these white stains?
Yes, I think so.
So, perhaps the IPA damaged the powder?
Do you think it would still be safe to use?
do fuses/breakers trip when you use it? if not, it's not likely to be significantly more dangerous- its still an electrically heated plate.
@Abel I think it is a steel sheet cover, not the heated bed itself.
Yes, I meant the steel sheet cover, not the bed itself. I'm very new to this so I might confuse terms, sorry.
I'm using the reverse side of the steel sheet now, so far no fires :)
A clear and well-lit photo of your bed would be useful, if you could add that to your question with [edit]
Well, finally I decided to go all in and did it all again.
Cleaned the bed again with a cotton disc with IPA but scrubbing harder than the first time, then warm water and dish soap and more scrubbing and finally dried it with a soft cloth.
White stains are almost gone now, will try later if it still has adherence for prints.
Perhaps I panicked a little too soon, lol, sorry
Thank you all
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18251 | E3D V6 hotend gets jammed very frequently
In the past couple of weeks, my V6 hotend gets jammed very frequently. The nozzle is 0.4 mm and the printer is a D-Bot.
Here are some of the things I have tried so far,
Switched between the original and a clone and both get jammed.
Tried different heat breaks - the one where the Bowden PTFE tube goes all the way to the nozzle, the one where its an all metal one and the one that has a PTFE liner inside it.
Checked and re-calibrated the E steps and the PID tuning for the nozzle.
Used different filaments (PLA).
Tightened the nozzle against the heat break every time
Tried different printing speeds and also calibrated the extrusion multiplier.
Tried different retraction speeds and lengths.
Ensured that the heat sink is adequately cooled.
What could I be missing?
Is it a genune or a knockoff v6? what are your settings? What material?
Make sure the nozzle body isn't actually touching the heater block. There should be a small gap when it's fully tightened. If there isn't you will need to adjust the hot end/heat break.
@Trish As stated above, I've tried both the genuine and the clone and I'm facing problems with both. Material is PLA, being printed at 200 deg C, 60 deg C heatbed, 60mm/s print speed. Retraction is set at 2mm and retraction speed is 50mm/s.
@BobT The nozzle body is not touching the heater block. I usually insert the heat break first to ensure that the exposed break is right between the heat sink and the block and then add the nozzle.
Did you ever figure this out? I'm having he same problem.
@Biclops not really. I finally gave up and bought a whole new 3D printer. I was done with DIY options.
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18380 | How do I make the layers stick together more and warp less?
I have a Chiron from Anycubic and I have had some leveling issues in the last few weeks, however, I believe that I have sorted that. The layers attached to the base plate or the raft now come out very weird and I am uncertain why. I heard that this is caused by the extruder being too cold but I have turned up the temperature and nothing has changed. Could someone please help with this because I have a feeling this is the reason the prints are being warped slightly but enough to not fit together?
I am very new to all this and I have no one to help me with this, if you could help I would be very grateful.
My bed temperature is set to 70 °C and the speed is 50 mm/s. I manually leveled it afer the self leveling didn't work, the image shows the top layer of a very bad failed print that had the same settings as my other ones but this one specifically was worse. I use PLA and have the extruder set to a temp of 210 °C most of the time. I now have the base set to 80 °C due to when its lower, adhesion doesn't take place for some reason. There are no large overhangs on my models but it can comfortably do a 70ish degree angle with no major flaw. The extruder height is set to 2 mm due to some massive leveling issues I had before.
Welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Please add a photo so that we can see what might be the problem, could be adhesion, too much cooling or a too large of an initial gap, now it is guesswork. ALso add a little bit more information, what material are you printing, what are the temperatures, speeds, etc.
Your description sounds like a 1st layer issue, especially since it is unaffected by extrusion temperature. Besides a photo printing details such as material of your filament makes a difference in how to approach this. The characteristics of your bed, such as temperature and anything to promote adhesion is important.
I could be too cold of the print bed. What temperature is your print bed set to?
@GuyTurner What's your Print material and the extruder temperature? What's the layer height? Are that unsupported overhangs?
@GuyTurner We really like to help out! Please add additional information, else this question might get closed (without enough information it would become speculation, as can be sen in the comments above). We would like to see the STL to confirm if there are overhangs, see an image of the first layer (initial layer height might be useful too), so flip the object around, need the extrusion temperature and the material. E.g. 70 °C bed temp. for PLA is a little high, but okay for PETG.
how do i add more images?, i have an image of a raft being printed.
Not sure what the other answers are talking about. From the picture, your nozzle is just way too far from the bed and the extruded material is just barely making contact. Adjust it so that, when moved to position Z=0.2, there is exactly 0.2 mm between the nozzle tip and the bed. Then fine-tune with single-layer test prints.
Having the nozzle way too far from the bed is probably why you've found a need to jack your bed temperature up so high. Don't do that! 80 °C bed is not usable at all for PLA; it will keep the first 5-10 mm of the print above its glass transition temperature permanently (for the duration of the print), precluding any hope of it holding a proper shape. 60 °C is the absolute max you should ever use for PLA, and even that's too high to avoid warping. If your nozzle distance is right and you're using a textured (e.g. Buildtak or generic clone) build surface, PLA should adhere to a cold bed (not heated at all). Without that you probably need 45-55 °C.
That is an over extrusion and temp related issue, based on your picture. But to answer your question, make your layer height less and slow down your speed in the first 10 layers.
What software do you use? Your nozzle diameter seems to be selected incorrectly or you have a slightly enlarged nozzle. Buy an unused nozzle and make your bed adjustments again.
Select correct a nozzle diameter (such as 0.4 mm, 0.6 mm) and slice your print again. For PLA, I suggest using 200-215 °C for better layer adhesion and using the fan to make prints look better.
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18351 | Getting BTT filament sensor to work
(This is a pretty much duplicate post from one I put over on the Reddit, but it hasn't received a lot of traction over there so I figured I'd post):
Like many posts I've seen on the internet, I'm having trouble getting my BTT smart filament sensor to work.
Relevant Specs about my printer:
Ender 3 Pro
BTT E3 RRF Mainboard with IDEX module
Marlin Firmware I've edited in ways I mention below
What is going wrong:
It triggers way too easily. Right as a print starts, it'll trigger and say I ran out of filament. And/or it'll make it maybe half a layer and then trigger.
Steps I've taken:
I started by following the Teaching Tech YouTube video to get started and install it. Tried to match literally every change of his in the firmware I saw. Things like runout distance set to 7 and runout state set to low instead of high.
Quick note on those. In several places (like this) comments suggest changing the distance to more than 7 mm to make it less 'picky'. But in several comments (like here, and here), people suggest the official recommendation from BTT is 7 mm and there's a reason to set it at that. I've tried all sorts of distances and none seem to work.
In at least one place (like here) people suggest that even if you set it to 7 mm in the firmware, it doesn't always take effect and you have to go to the configuration menu in your printer and set it, then store the settings. I've done that as well.
I've set the runout state to either low or high, seems to still falsely trigger either way.
The only solution I haven't tried yet (will try tonight when I get home) (did that , still no luck) is in this comment it suggests adding M75 to my code to 'start the print job timer' so it won't trip 'after the initial 7 mm runout'. Could someone explain that one to me? Also, I feel like that's not it because even when I let it go through its paces and unload and then load, it'll trip again soon after.
The problem:
I just feel like it's still way too sensitive. And sure, in an ideal world I want it to detect all the things it's 'supposed' to detect like jams, tangles, etc... but I really just care the most about it noticing I ran out of filament.
Are there any settings in the firmware or anywhere else I should take a look at?
My latest thought is that maybe I have the sensor mounted in a different direction than it should be? Every video or picture I see online looks like the filament is going the opposite direction compared to what I have, but I've also seen comments where it says that doesn't matter.
I also have seen comments like here where the author recommends a HUGE runout distance (50) as that could be a problem. I'm willing to try that.
I would comment but I don’t have enough reputation yet -
Are you using the Creality firmware, Marlin, RepRap, or the Stock BIGTREE firmware? Also, have you modified it at all?
If you’re still using the firmware that came on the printer or Marlin firmware this thread could offer some insight. Read down through all of the comments because several people had really good tips, and the OP actually posted an update with how he solved it:
It seems that the settings stored in the printer overwrides the FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM in the firmware. So I just went the the printer configuration -> advance configuration -> filament and then I changed the runout distance and stored the settings. Source
I have marlin. I mentioned that "that even if you set it to 7 mm in the firmware, it doesn't always take effect and you have to go to the configuration menu in your printer and set it, then store the settings. I've done that as well"
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18357 | The Y-axis on my XVICO X3 seems to run backwards. I can't level or home the printer. What can I do to fix it?
I purchased the XVICO X3 over a year ago. It had fair reviews. I didn't end up assembling the printer until recently.
The Y-axis appears to run backwards, so I can't use it for anything. It jams the print plate and I have to manually cut it off. Tried everything with no luck. I have considered replacing the board. The frame and parts are nice. Overall, it looks like it would be a great printer and some YouTube videos say as much for the price. Some articles suggest running Marlin 2.0 by flashing the board, as the XVICO X3 printer is an Ender styled machine. If the board is flawed, I think it would be useless to try that.
I'm clueless and would appreciate any help provided. Support from Xvico is hard to get.
More specific information is needed. Consider to use a manual control resource (terminal mode in a slicer) to command the steppers in a desired direction. If you discover that a stepper is reversed, you can swap control wires to reverse direction or flip movement in the firmware.
You tried everything, what specifically? Stepper direction is a matter of pulling the connector of the Y stepper flip it 180° and push it back in.
Hi @Oscar, I've tried everything a clueless person knows to do, kicked it, ran over it, cussed it, and messed with every setting in the UI. I thought the connector ends only fit one way. If so, do I cut the wires? Which of the four wires should I swap?
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18362 | Ender 3 with Trianglelab matrix extruder
I ordered a matrix direct drive extruder from Trianglelab and printed two mounts for it.
The mounts I have printed are found here.
I have only printed the first and second part from the referenced link above.
Should these be enough to get the extruder mounted and start testing with it?
I have a hard time figuring out which way the extruder should be connected with these mounts.
The mount is for a LulzBot TAZ 5 printer, not an Ender 3. It would be an addition to the question if you expressed why you are using the LulzBot TAZ 5 mount on the Ender 3 to prevent answers that you are using the incorrect printer part. Unless that is actually the issue.
Unless the question is updated why a LulzBot TAZ printer part is used on the Ender 3, it is unclear why you would want to use the parts from the linked Thingiverse source; quote:
These are the parts needed to mount a Trianglelab Matrix extruder to a Taz 5 and Workhorse.
The LulzBot concept uses the linear rods concept (Prusa i3 style) for the X-axis while the Ender 3 uses a wheel based carriage running on a 2020 aluminium extrusion profile. For comparison, see the image below to show the differences between the Ender 3 and the TAZ:
A specific mount for the Ender 3 is found here.
Thanks. Not sure why I didn't find the correct one.
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18418 | Offline CAD software for beginners
I have used OpenSCAD to design a couple of basic things. However, I'm incredibly frustrated by the current state of CAD software: it's all browser based, or requires an internet connection. Or has a learning curve like a cliff.
Are there any offline, nonsubscription, no-account-needed CAD softwares meant for 3D printing enthusiasts that don't have a degree in CAD?
I've seen plenty of tutorials that make it all look easy, and the softwares I have tried just don't do anything.
OpenSCAD is good for blocky well defined shapes and things, but right now I want to make a simple design to hold up a dowel. I've tried Blender and can't figure out how to give a dimension. Same for Sketchup Make 2017. I can't find a useful button in FreeCAD. I've tried Fusion 360 a while ago, but I hear that it recently took a major turn for the worse.
I want to design some stuff without giving away my digital soul in the process.
I'm a fan of OpenSCAD but recognize the limitations within the program. Part of the feature bundle of OpenSCAD is the parametric aspect. If you want to aim in that direction and can handle a GUI type of CAD program, consider to check out SolveSpace. All images courtesy of linked site.
Additionally, there is a Tutorial link on the site with a series of lessons to assist the transition to the program. The image below is the introductory tutorial part creation.
It's heavily keyboard biased, but for each key shortcut, there's an icon/GUI button option. As with many CAD programs, using the keyboard can be faster than searching for a sometimes-indistinct icon for a specific operation.
It's just an opinion, but Fusion 360 hasn't necessarily taken a turn for the worse, especially at the free hobbyist level. Change can be difficult, especially for us more mature computer uses (IBM 5150, anyone?) and F360 has managed to relocate/hide a number of features. It's a matter of finding them, but that adds to the learning curve.
My understanding the licensing had change in F360, not the GUI.
I am currently using F360 under an academic license and I have not had any problems with it. Granted, I am teaching myself via YouTube vids and banging my head against the wall. I started using F360 just before the change and the program itself has not changed significantly.
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18420 | Low fidelity 3D printer for plastic waste
Is there such thing as a 3D printer with a very large diameter nozzle, that can make low fidelity, large and fast prints? I'm picturing a soft serve ice-cream machine on a gantry, with a hopper. You feed it shredded plastic, and it prints bricks, or boards.
Yes these exist. 3D printers using pellets is not uncommon for industry, but for the user at home this might be a different question. Pellets are the pre-fabricate before it is extruded into filament (small balls/cylinders of plastic).
Random image showing a variety of pellets in different colors
There are even processes to turn used plastic into pellets, so if you combine it all this should be very doable. The problem is to get a consistent type of waste plastic to feed your machine. The size of the nozzle doesn't matter, as long as your shredding, compressing and heating process can keep up with the flow you need. It would be an excellent idea to get rid of plastic waste and turning these into building bricks e.g. for insulation of heat.
I've seen prototype printers printing PEEK from pallets having a nozzle (slot) diameter of several millimeters.
You can certainly get large nozzles, but the material for extrusion still needs to be consistent. So any chunked plastic would have to be melted and that will produce an erratic flow at the extruder.
By reforming your shredded plastic into a consistent string of filament, then the printer has a steady supply of material to use. There are already filament extruders for the small shop, but they're still expensive for the home user. The main problems are getting consistent thickness of filament, and minimising contaminants. Also colours tend to be lost and muddied. These might be economical if you have a print farm and are consuming a spool a day on average.
On a large scale, there are "3d printers" that can place a special quick-drying concrete and produce small buildings as homes in a matter of days. However they're fed a special mixture of smooth cement and accelerators to set the concrete ready for the next layer.
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18445 | Factory reset needed!
I have just bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro. During setup, I think I must have applied an offset... The nozzle lifts up about 5 mm from the bed when starting to print.
I am reading that M502 resets to factory settings and M500 saves the settings. I have looked everywhere I can think of but am unable to find these files to download.
Can someone help me please? Where can I find these files?
What "files" are you talking about? If you mean the M502 and M500, those are commands that are sent to the printer. More info can be found at What is a printer console/terminal?.
This could potentially be closed as a duplicate of What is a printer console/terminal?.
M502 and M500 are not files, they are G-code commands (well, they are actually M-codes, but don't worry about that)1.
To reset your printer to the factory default settings, simply connect a terminal and send M502.
If you are using Linux, see How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?
See also M502 will reset all configurable settings to their "factory defaults", which settings are those?
1 Simply put: G-codes control movement; whereas M-codes control other functions (which aren't movements).
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18437 | Large prints cracking
I'm trying to print large objects (around 1 meter squared) with polycarbonate pellets. The problem is sometimes the print cracks. It is not due to delamination as it is a shear crack across multiple layers. I know the ideal scenario is to have a heated enclosure but I cannot do that due to the size. Any suggestions?
I am using a robotic arm (KUKA KR360) with a custom extruder. That is why I can't build the enclosure. As for the temperature, they are 230 to 260 °C. Nozzle is 10 mm.
I like the idea of directed heat. I might try that.
You need to tell us what printer you are using, nozzle size and temps.
Printing polycarbonate requires a high end 3D printer that is suitable for the task.
From Simplify3d support we learn that:
... requires very high temperatures for printing and will exhibit layer separation if printed at too low of a temperature or with excessive cooling enabled. Polycarbonate is frequently best printed on a machine that has an enclosed build volume and is capable of handling high bed and extruder temperatures.
High temperatures and enclosed build volume are key to print polycarbonate without cracking or delamination.
Any suggestions?
Note that NASA has successfully printed ULTEM (even higher temperatures needed) using open source hardware. They have used infrared lamps directed at the build plate, this may be an option if a full enclosure is not possible. Also people seem to get good results with draft shields for printing ABS on non enclosed printers. Key is that a constant elevated temperature is created near the print, whether that works for such a large size remains to be seen. Best solution would be enclosing the printer.
Sounds like your problem is cooling, which would be mitigated by an enclosure to eliminate draughts and hold a higher air temperature.
I made an enclosure using parts-on-hand and some printed PLA joiners. It doesn't have to be fancy or expensive to work well.
Details are at https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18406/12956
Next step is to sew some thermal "curtains" as sides and top. As it is I simply hang some coats around the frame in the short term, and use a Pi camera inside to monitor the progress from remote.
Get a tent for growing smokey plants :)
Think about it, they can be of big sizes and maintain heat inside, reflective material on the inside.
The idea of using an enclosure has already been mentioned in the other answer provided. Please [edit] your answer to provide additional details with supporting documentation/links.
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18440 | Over-extruding on small layer heights (0.06 mm), but fine above 0.15 mm?
I re-assembled an i3 that used to be on a production line. It works OK when the layer height is set to 0.15 mm, but it over extrudes “A LOT” when used with a layer height like 0.06 mm.
At first I thought it was just “ANOTHER” random issue.
The same machine had:
burnt 5 V regulator on the Arduino Mega
burnt display (as a result of the above)
broken extruder stepper motor (would never extrude/retract the same amount, looked like re-assembled)
overheating A4988 drivers with Vref extremely high (above specs)
dual Z axis motors connected in parallel, requiring bigger drivers, but still using a single A4988
improperly assembled hotend that would clog constantly.
screw to tighten the material (it didn't use a spring, which I prefer since it's more lenient with the material diameter)
So I kept the RAMPS 1.4, and replaced/rewired everything else. Bought a 12 V PSU, installed a new display, added four DRV8825 modded for fast-decay configuration to replace the A4988, wired the dual Z axis in series, replaced the broken motor and everything looked finally OK.
But there is one single problem that remains:
picking any layer height below 0.15 mm causes issues.
Imagine printing with a 100 % over-extrussion setting. Pieces look too wide, and you can clearly see the nozzle is "inserted" into the 3D piece because there is way too much material. I can't print small pieces because they become "bloated" and I have to stop printing after about 2 mm of height (on the Z axis) since I'm afraid the nozzle will eventually get stuck inside all the extra material.
Things I checked (other than the new components from above):
X, Y and Z axis steps are properly calibrated
The extruder is calibrated and it always extrudes the correct length of material
Different steppings: 1/16 stepping when using the A4988 and 1/32 stepping with the new DRV8825.
Different slicers. Tried Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r (the original, not the Prusa version).
Any ideas on what may be the issue? I don't know what else to try.
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18441 | BLTouch collides with side of bed when starting print AFTER leveling
Okay, this one is a bit weird as everything else on the printer (for the most part at least...) is working perfectly. Some minor adjustments here and there are needed but this issue has shown up recently since adding a BLTouch.
After starting the print my printer regardless if I have it set up to wipe or not will them run the BLTouch (NOT the extruder, ONLY the BLTouch) into the side of the print bed. All of my offsets seem to be correct but for whatever reason, I can't seem to figure out what to correct to make this not run into the side of the bed as admittedly after the collision it prints fine! Any ideas?
(I have provided a video to give a better idea as to what exactly is going on as there are similar issues however they don't quite match my situation from what I've seen)
The problem is not after leveling, but during leveling when probing the first point of the mesh. As it fails to detect the trigger point, it skips further levelling steps. As the probe doesn't retract it is bound to cause a problem.
This could potentially be a non-genuine Antclabs touch probe, which are of lower quality than the original Antclabs BLTouch. The original BLTouch has a screw on top which might be present here also, you could try to adjust it for it to retract better on triggering (see this answer for some more information on the working of a touch sensor). The screw attracts the magnet on the top of the probe pin, getting the screw closer (clockwise) to increase the attraction and thus make it easier to attract it back up when retracting.
If the probe retracts in the middle of the bed, it should retract at every point on the bed. If it does not retract, there is something wrong with the sensor. You could insert an additional spacer (0.5 - 1 mm) between the mount and the probe to make a little more distance between the nozzle and the probe.
Could be the angle of the video, but make sure the frame is at 90° angles and the bed is as level as possible. Note that when using a sheet of glass, it generally is not required to use a touch sensor for scanning the surface, glass is flat. You could check with a ruler on its side. Basically, G29 can be skipped by taking it out of the start G-code, the sensor will than only be used in the middle of the bed to home Z.
I would note this is the genuine Creality BL touch so dunno about any issues there as the orignal bltouch I had catastrophic issues with oroginally I'll see about skiping G29 though and see if it solves my issue thanks
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18449 | Machined Aluminium Print Bed
I'm currently printing on a glass bed and it is warped in the centre of the bed. Not by much, but enough that my prints aren't the quality I want them out. My work around at the moment is to print on a raft.
I'm thinking if I was to replace the glass bed with a aluminium bed. I know this has been asked before, but the difference is I can get the aluminium plate machined at 65 °C. By doing this will it remove the potential for a warp completely? Or will it still have the potential to warp even being machined at 65 °C?
What type of aluminum, cast or rolled? Is it heat treated? 5-, 6- or 7000 series? What is the thickness, 3 or 6 mm?
Sounds like you got a bad plate. Try buying a replacement before getting too deep into "make a new one"
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18505 | Wait for click to continue
To help me with bed leveling my Ender 3 v2 (using stock Creality firmware, V1.0.2), I'm trying to write a G-code that will position the nozzle above each spring in sequence twice, after heating the bed. After each position, I want the printer to wait for me until I have leveled that position. I want to click the knob to continue to the next position. Also, it wouldn't hurt if I could show some instructions on the display.
This is my first G-code attempt, and I don't understand how to make the printer wait for a click, and how to show instructions.
I have tried for Wait for click: M0, M71, M108 and M291.
I have tried for showing instructions: M0, M117 and M291.
All fail. The printer just goes from one position to the next without waiting, until the entire program is completed.
Here is my last attempt:
M140 S60 ; Set bed temperature
M105 ; Report temperatures
M190 S60 ; Wait for bed temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
M117 Going to bottom left. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X30.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom left
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to top left. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X30.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top left
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to top right. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X190.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top right
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to bottom rigth. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X190.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom right
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to bottom left. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X30.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom left
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to top right. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X190.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top right
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to bottom rigth. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X190.000 Y30.000 Z2.0 ; Bottom right
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to top left. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X30.000 Y190.000 Z2.0 ; Top left
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for leveling
M71 Please level and click to continue ; Show message and wait for continue button
M117 Going to center. Please wait.
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X110.000 Y110.000 Z2.0 ; Center
G0 Z0.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis down for checking
M71 Please level and click to end. Restart if not satisfied ; Show message
M140 S0 ; Set bed temperature
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G0 F6000 X110.000 Y110.000 Z2.0 ; Home
G28 ; Home all axes
G0 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
M84 X Y E Z ;Disable all steppers
Another alternative is built into JyersUI firmware. The option is in the Prepare > Manual Leveling. It has five points (the four bed screws and center) for calibration.
As a possible workaround, have you tried G4 S[number of seconds] for a timed pause?
I have a partial answer.
Thanks to Chep, who created a similar file, I found that there exists a less well documented M25 command (Pause SD print). This seems to be the command to call with 32-bit boards in an Ender 3, instead of the M0.
Also I found out that this M25 works a bit buggy. It only pauses after the movement command AFTER it is executed. So you need to execute the command before moving to the place where you want to pause. This bug still persists even on Chep's file.
And it bugs out the user interface of the Ender. Because the screen seems not to refresh, showing "pause" button when already paused. And overlapping a "pause" button over the ending "confirm" button while the program is already over.
I still haven't found out how to print instructions.
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18473 | Filament Spool Stalls Extruder Motor Destroying Print
I am having the frustrating problem where my extruder motor starts skipping steps and stops extruding simply because my filament is wound too tightly. There are some parts of my filament that are so tightly wound that even I have to put some effort to pull it apart. I buy the Inland PLA+ filaments and consistently have this problem with all colors and types. I just threw away a 5-hour large print when it was at 94 %! I am thinking of using a large 20 kg/cm servo to pull our filament before going into the printer to make sure this doesn't happen. I want to know if that is a plausible solution or if I should start buying filament from a different company.
When you change a spool on a printer how well do you control the end of plastic, are you securing it to the side of the spool or just fishing it out of the loose loops of plastic around the spool? This sounds a lot like a user caused issue where the end of the line gets tucked other loose loops on the spool.
Or perhaps you need to rewind your spool onto an empty one so it is evenly loose all the way through.
A guy at work had this - he got many cheap rolls of PLA. They had been stored hot and were subtly deformed, each flake slightly sticking to the adjacent ones.
His fix was first to unspool "enough" filament for the job, but that was not reliable for longer prints.
The proper fix was to wind the entire roll onto a spare roll and then fit that to the printer. (And to stop buying suspiciously cheap filament) He make a mandrel for the center of the "reel" and simply wound the filament on with a battery-powered hand drill. The old roll was on the machine until it was emptied, then swapped over.
As for your 94% job, it is possible to slice the top 6% of your part, and reprint that. Some careful filing and superglue can give you a useable part, although the seam is never going to be invisible. That may not matter depending on your use case.
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18519 | Ender 5 Plus Bowden tube keeps popping out
My new Ender 5 Plus' Bowden tube keeps popping out of its socket on the extruder mid-print, I've tried several times and it keeps doing it even though it's locked into place securely at the start every time. Is this a known issue? And how do I resolve it?
I just got it so I doubt it's the coupler, I replaced it with a spare as my first solution, I did notice that it got almost stringy plastic around it whenever it gets popped out.... could that be indicative of what the problem is?
The coupler for the Bowden tube is probably worn out or the tube end has been scraped so that the coupler can't grab it or you have left out the clamp on the coupler.
The coupler has a sleeve that when pressed down releases the Bowden tube. There is a C-shaped clip that should go between the top lip of the sleeve and the body of the coupler that prevents the sleeve from moving and should help hold the tube more firmly. Make sure this is installed.
If the tube outside is visibly worn with scrape marks (this is rare), it might help to cut a few cm off the end so that a fresh section is gripped by the coupler. Be sure to cut the end flush so that there is no gap between the heat break and the Bowden tube or you will have other problems.
Alternately (and this is more likely), the coupler itself is worn out, possibly with bent or broken-off teeth. If this is the case, you will need to replace the coupler.
I just got it so I doubt it's the coupler, I replaced it with a spare as my first solution, I did notice that it got almost stringy plastic around it whenever it gets popped out.... could that be indicative of what the problem is?
That sounds like you have a gap between the bowden tube and the heat break. When you pull it out, make sure there is no plastic above the heat break, and if there is, clean it out. Then make sure the tube goes all the way in. If the tube end is not flat, it might be good to trim it. One of the easiest ways to do that is to insert it into a spare coupler and cut the end flat with the end of the coupler using a razor blade.
I'm not exactly sure what part is the heat break (I've never really had to deal with the tube and couplers before)
The heat break is between the bowden tube and the heated part of the hot end. The bowden tube should go all the way down to the bottom of the hole below the coupler. If there's a gap, molten plastic will collect between the bowden tube and the hot end and solidify and make a mess. If your tube was slipping, that probably already happened, so now it needs to be cleaned out.
but It's the coupler on the extruder end that's problematic.
@TristanAdams Does it have a clip on it that stops the collet from moving? You can print one if there weren't any included - they are small so you should be able to print one before the tube comes loose.
yes even then it popped out still
Ahh. If it's the driven end of the extruder rather than the hot end, at least there's no mess to clean out. If it's slipping, either it is loose and adding the clip will help, or it is worn as I explained in the answer.
well since I tried the clip all that's left is the snip.
OK well I feel silly, it turns out it wasn't fully pushed into place, I pushed it in feeling it lock and thought it was secure, when it actually wasn't, pushing it in till it feels locked up twice resulted in it being properly secured. (sorry if my description doesn't make a lot of sense, I'm not good at that kind of thing, so I'm trying my best.)
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18522 | Geeetech A10M extrusion issues
So I purchased a Geeetech A10M a while back and have never been able to get it to print right. I own two other Ender 3's and have been printing for about 4 years now. I fix most issues myself but this has stumped me.
The printer just seems to print "OK" at the start but then starts under extruding. Stringing is also really bad, but the stock cooling is garbage. I've tried new filament as well as different brands with no prevail. I've changed my slicer settings what feels like a billion times. I am unsure if the unique Y-splitter hot end is causing a problem. I've also never used Titan-style extruders and am unsure if those are a problem. I would appreciate any help you can give me.
I use Cura as my slicer. I started with the preset profile already there, and then I edited it as I began having issues. I've tweaked just about everything I can think of in the slicer. I want to like the printer. It's just that it prints like crap right now. This printer is my personal project of sorts so it isn't really bugging me. But the end goal is obviously to get it to print good!
For now the specs of the printer, these will be updated with the values used for the prints from the photos:
Filament diameter: 1.75 mm
Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
Retraction 10 mm
Temperatures:
End 200 °C
Bed 60 °C
Speed 60 mm/s
Infill 20 % Rectangular
6 top and bottom layers
5 perimeters
0.2 mm layer height
Flow 100 %
Travel speed 130 mm/s
Okay, clearly an under-extrusion problem. The first layer is okay-ish but could improve. The retraction length is too long for the relative short Bowden tubes on the printer, try something in the region of 4-6 mm. Furthermore, the under extrusion worsens so beware of heat creep, force the cold end to br cooled properly. Also check the extrudes that they are not skipping. Fix this first and update the questions.
I have same problem the nozzle get clogged after while of extrusion, (Especially when used 2 extruders). Have you fixed this?
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18523 | Marlin firmware issues
So I'm working on building a Prusa i3 MK3 clone and all's gone well so far but when I make edits to the firmware and reupload it, the printer doesn't seem to be getting it. Like I changed the software endstops to new values in the code, recompiled it and reuploaded it, but when I use M211 the printer still reports its old endstop values.
Also, it seems to only be able to home to the minimum, not the maximum (not the biggest deal).
Any advice on how to get the printer to recognize its new boundaries/is there a way to just set it with a G-code?
Did you load the new values from the firmware you uploaded with M502? If not, that might be your problem. See "M502 will reset all configurable settings to their "factory defaults", which settings are those?".
Did you load the new values from the firmware you uploaded with M502? If not, that might be your problem. See "M502 will reset all configurable settings to their "factory defaults", which settings are those?".
When you upload a firmware, this is done through a so-called binary hex file. In this file, stored in memory of the micro-controller, the complete "program" is stored as configured by your code editor (compiled, hence a binary file). Note that the user of the "program" is allowed to change values of certain parameters1), the changes are stored in a different part of the memory that is not overwritten when a new firmware is uploaded. You manually have to get the "set" values from your new firmware file to store these into the "working memory". Please send the M502 and the M500 G-codes to get and store the values from the firmware.
1) Do remember the inability to store custom parameters in certain older versions of Marlin in combination with certain printer controller boards (e.g. the SKR line of boards), but, this is fixed in the recent versions, storage e.g. is done on the SD card. For that reason the memory storage above is not called EEPROM but the "working memory", i.e. is doesn't have to be an EEPROM storage.
I did that but M211 is still saying my software endstops are in the old location, and now when I try and home the x-axis, it says: echo:Homing Failed
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
Error:Printer halted. kill() called! any advice?
@amanda With M211 you enable or disable software endstops, with M119 you get the state, and you can invert the state logic. What is it that you do with M211 in firmware?
@0scar can the machine work with just software endstops or should I add physical ones? Would that help with the homing issues?
@natalia For convenience you should use hardware end stops, then you can home each axis, else you need, as printer operator, position the head before each print manually. This is described in more detail here.
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18525 | Enabling Pause feature on HBOT 3D 1.1
At work, I have an HBOT 3D 1.1 printer and I need to be able to pause my prints. I've tried all the usual G-code commands (M0, M1, M25, M226, M600) but they don't work.
At home I have an Ender 3 and while I don't know much about modifying firmware, with help from a video guide I've managed to enable the advanced pause feature which solved exactly that problem.
Could anyone advise me what steps to take to enable pausing mid-print on HBOT 3D 1.1?
Do you have the (English) manual? This is a fairly old printer (2013?) which runs an old version of probably Marlin firmware, but could be topped of by OEM specific sources, the display e.g. is quite different as are the menu items if you look into the Polish manual. The question is if there is a way to pause the print at all, it might well be that it is not implemented.
Unfortunately I only have access to polish manual and I've failed to find anything useful in there. There is no section about updating firmware. I've looked into a configuration file on my SD card, but there's nothing interesting there either.
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18602 | Are 3D printed containers safe for cosmetics?
So I've seen info about food-safe 3D printed containers, but I haven't seen anything about safety when it comes to containers used for cosmetics.
Would a cured resin 3D printed jar be safe for holding lotion or cosmetic creams?
I know the FDA has rules around containers that come in contact with food, but I haven't seen anything about cosmetics.
I can provide a guidance document of the cosmetics manufacturers to others: https://cosmeticseurope.eu/download/UG14b1RFS01qdlllbFBwdTZlRXRwdz09 and the FDA runs a registration program https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/voluntary-cosmetic-registration-program - and there's a norm https://www.iso.org/standard/36436.html
@Trish thanks for this. it's really informative. the main thing I'm wondering is if anyone knows of things in the resin leeching into things like lotion or creams?
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18603 | How to print a cylinder with hundreds of small holes?
I'd like to print a cylinder, 50 mm diameter, 200 mm long, with 1.5 mm diameter holes tightly fit like this:
The holes go all the way through from top to bottom.
I am using a Prusa i3 MK3S. With 0.1 mm detail and 20 % infill, printing one cylinder is going to take 5 days and 5 hours. I need at least five cylinders.
Is the above setting appropriate for this job?
Is there any way I can reduce the printing time?
What's it going to be used for? It might be easier to get some (glass?) tube with a bore diameter of 1.5 mm and 3-d print caps for both ends to hold them.
Why not print it on its side?
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE, would it be possible to print it on its side and still get good circular holes?
Try a smaller test print and see. There will be discrete stepping in the Z direction but it should be consistent & smooth if that works for you. And you could print the holes slightly undersized and clean them up with a tool to make them more circular.
That's a hell of a print!
You are printing a model that has a highly complex structure there, with about 650ish holes, assuming there is space for about 2 perimeters between each hole.
Taking my standard 0.3 mm layer height and 0.4 mm nozzle using a 0.45 mm wide line, I sliced a 10mm high slice of the model for a first estimate of the expected print time - and came out with 2:21 hours. That means the expected print time with 0.3 mm layer height is in the area of 47 hours - or just about 2 days.
As a result, 5 days and 5 hours are in the order I'd expect from a 0.1 mm layer height print for the same nozzle, in fact, your settings seem to have a faster print speed than I do work with.
In general, I don't think this model is good for FDM printing at all, due to many non-fully formed lines inside the model (yellow) and the red perimeters being a very dense pattern.
Solutions?
Print faster
You might get a faster speed with a high-flow solution, for example, using a long melt zone (volcano-style) or an even higher flow core-heating 3DSolex nozzle. The latter originally only comes in 0.6 mm and up, also mandating fewer holes, but in late 2021 CHT nozzles in 0.4 mm came to the market. This could drop print time some, but it'd still be a several days print job.
Reduced pattern
Besides increasing layer height to drop printing time by the same factor, reducing the number of holes and as a result, spacing them further apart not only can increase the print speed but also make the print form more reliable.
Another alternative would be to alter the pattern from a circle to a hexagonal pattern: by using hexagons, the resulting pattern does not contain thin walls and might print much faster - depending on hole size, you might experience a drop by a factor of 2!
Printed differently
Going from FDM printing to a system such as SLS might be faster and more reliable while SLA/DLP would make this print not only fast and reliable but also trivial - if one can get a 200 mm high SLA/DLP printer, all three models should be able to be printed in one go at the same time!
Changing to hex pattern is a good idea. One way to get efficient tool paths from the slicer is to model the cylinder solid, then in the slicer, set infill to hexagon pattern, and set top and bottom shell/solid layers to zero. The infill is exposed.
The complexity of the design suggests that movement speed, not extrusion speed, is the limiting factor. I wouldn't expect any speedup from a high-flow printhead, and possibly even a slowdown because of the need to drive the increased mass.
@Mark High flow allows higher movement speeds if you have better paths. A core heating nozzle weighs about 2 grams more than a standard nozzle.
BondTech now sells CHT nozzles in a wider variety than just 0.6mm; I've got a 0.8mm and 1.4mm on hand.
If travel speed is the limiting factor just crank it up. I regularly use >400 mm/s, >5000 mm/s² travel on an Ender 3, and can take the acceleration considerably higher still if needed. Using slow travel just lowers your queality due to risk of oozing. The unretract time after travel gives plenty of time for any vibrations from the extreme acceleration to settle before extrusion begins again.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE True, travel speed can be an issue, but in ideal, the model has little to no travel time, especially if hex-tessellating.
@Trish: I meant if the original design produced high travel. Though using the experimental Arachne engine of Cura (upcoming Cura 5) could avoid that with its variable line widths.
Late to the party, but for other people that stumble here with a similar problem i've seen a lot of people use a 0 top layers, 0 bottom layers settings to expose infill structure. That with a suitable infill pattern might give you a different slicing that might be faster to print.
Holes, circles, and curves are slow to print, and get slower as the number of wall segments increase.
Ideally you'd use square holes, but hexagonal-sided ones would be a fair compromise too.
Your slicer should be able to give a breakdown on the times for each kind of line in the part. Check and see how much of the time is spent on "moves".
Is there a reason for using all these little holes? Fewer, larger holes will provide better airflow and require less printing, up to the ultimate of one single large hole, where you're essentially printing a pipe/tube.
Do you need the holes to go right-through? Printing a big "cup" with holes across the floor, and separately a "lid" then gluing them together would be quicker and you have one large hole in the middle. If this idea works, you might prefer to just buy plastic pipe of a suitable size, and print only endcaps.
Additionally, if you're printing 5 cylinders because you need a metre total length, then printing two endcaps for a 1 metre piece of plastic PVC pipe should take a couple of hours at most. And it will save you a lot of filament.
that pattern actually is pretty common for filters or catalysts, so I assume there is a reason for it.
@Trish plausibly there is a reason for the design as-is, but OP wanted ideas to reduce print time, and not printing 90% of it would help that immensely.
The design screams "laminar flow" and is very likely intentional and necessary.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE then I would explore printing two end caps, sized to fit on tubes that are already available, like straws. At a ballpark, 1.5mm holes represent under 25% of the cross section. There will be very-limited air flow through such small holes. This kinda feels like an XY question. where the question is about the intended answer, not the underlying goal.
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18591 | Hot end temperature keeps dropping on my Creality CR-10 S4
I have a Creality CR-10 S4.
What causes a "runaway please reset"?
I changed the heating element and the thermistor. When I heat the hot end, the temperature drops down to about 165 °C and I get a thermal runaway.
Could the fan go bad and it's going too fast?
Please clarify your specific problem or provide additional details to highlight exactly what you need. As it's currently written, it's hard to tell exactly what you're asking.
Hello... any update?
There could be multiple reasons for the issue, but the most common issue is the temperature sensor. We can test it:
Disconnect the hot end from the control board and place the sensor on a warm plate and after some time place a candle closer to your sensor, with a 5 mm gap. If your board is able to display the variable temperature, then we can say the temperature sensor is fine.
Or if you're good with electronics and programming, use Arduino/ATtiny/Arm controller to measure temperature using the temp sensor of your 3D printer.
The next issue could be some component in your control board, it happened with my printer, in my case, resistor and two capacitors were at fault.
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18592 | Will a 12 V Stepper motor work at 24 V?
I have a Prusa MK2.5 which runs at 12 V, the Prusa MK3 runs at 24 V.
I noticed that on Prusa's webpage, they list the stepper motors as being compatible with both the MK2 and the MK3 even though they run at different voltages.
My question is: are stepper motors typically tuned for specific voltages (like most fans are), or are these stepper motors compatible with both 12 and 24 V systems?
if they say its compatible, chances are high that a current limiter on the motor controller is expected to take effect and prevent frying if set correctly for the motor. check controller. big ones have a set of switches. little ones have a trim pot.
if you use two power supplies.... https://toms3d.org/2019/05/25/use-the-wrong-parts-on-any-3d-printer/
There is an excellent answer found on SE Electronics! Basically there is a difference between the constant voltage applied or one applied through a sophisticated controller! The stepper is probably rated for 4 V (continuous) or something close to that, a good rule of thumb is to use between 10 and 24 times the motor’s nameplate voltage, so it will work at 40~80 V.
The steppers have two voltages in the specifications: nominal voltage and maximum voltage for the electrical insulation between windings.
The nominal voltage is basically never that high. The motors from Prusa are likely rated at 4-5 V operating voltage: the voltage you apply from the control board is higher, but as soon as the current reaches the value you set, the chip starts cutting intermittently the voltage, so 12-0-12-0-12... and the average value never goes above those 4-5 V.
The second value, the insulation, is the one you must NEVER exceed, even when operating intermittently, but it is likely 30 V or more.
Without having the exact model number of the motor to check the data sheet, this can't be answered. Glancing at the link you supplied, I didn't see either a data sheet or a model number I could use to get a data sheet.
Typically stepper motors overheat when they are run at too high of a voltage. However, the advertised voltage for the motor could be the lowest voltage at which it works.
For a real answer, you'd have to look at the manufacturer's datasheet for the motor, which should include minimum and maximum voltages and graphs showing current vs. voltage vs. force graphs, and possibly duty cycle graphs.
Also, in some cases, if you run a motor at a higher voltage than it is rated for, it may produce back EMF that is larger than the motor controller is prepared for, and it could burn out the controller. However, if the controller is designed for 24v, this is less likely of a problem.
Note also that there are conversion kits, where you place a small board between the controller and the motor that fixes the voltage for the motor.
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18597 | Ender 3 board 4.2.2 BLTouch 3.1 crashes into bed during autoleveling
I'm trying to install a BLTouch probe. I have an Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.2 board and I’m trying to connect a BLTouch 3.1 to it. I've bought a generic (but authentic) BLTouch instead of a Creality kit. I've plugged the 3-pin connector into the correct slots on the board (didn't have to rewire, pins seem to be in correct order), but I'm trying to connect the 2-pin connector to the Z-stop connector.
Wiring seems to be in order (although I'm not an expert), when I turn on the printer, the BLTouch flashes and deploys twice but when I try to autohome or level or deploy it through options, menu probe autohomes X and Y axis, but when it comes to the Z axis, the probe doesn’t deploy and hotend simply crashes into the bed.
I've followed this video when I was compiling firmware (I tried both the normal Marlin build and the nightly release).
My configuration files can be found here. If someone would be willing to take a look.
E.g. from my configuration (Configuration.h) file:
/**
* Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z-MIN pin.
* The probe replaces the Z-MIN endstop and is used for Z homing.
* (Automatically enables USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING.)
*/
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
// Force the use of the probe for Z-axis homing
#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING
My guess is that I have to force the firmware to somehow recognize the correct signal pin, but then again, I'm out of my depth. I've seen this exact problem mentioned in many places all over the internet but never with a solution attached.
Are you using Creality's pre-built software?
In that case, you must connect the two pins to the BLTouch port. Altogether, you would have all five wires connected there.
Are you using your own Marlin build?
In that case, you must uncomment #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN in order to plug in those two wires into the Z end stop connector. Otherwise, you need to use the BLTouch port as mentioned above.
Very good spot! I've inserted the code of the OP in the question, you see that this is exactly the problem! Welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! P.S. Please don't forget to vote on questions/answer, voting drives the community!
I've tried a couple more times but there is no improvement. I'm going to buy a 5pin connector and try to connect the probe to the default 5pin socket and see if it works with prepackaged creality firmware. If it does I will try to compile on my own again. I will have to do my own build anyway because I want advanced park features enabled (need to embed magnets easily).
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18569 | MESH_INSET vs PROBING_MARGIN
I've been tinkering with my 3DTouch (basically a BLTouch clone) on my CoreXY and have been trying to set up UBL in Marlin. There are a few configurations I haven't been able to find any useful resources about, as I'm having a hard time understanding and tackling some of them.
I do not understand MESH_INSET and PROBING_MARGIN and/or their difference.
Also couldn't find anything useful about SEGMENT_LEVELED_MOVES and LEVELED_SEGMENT_LENGTH.
You can find an answer on PROBING_MARGIN and MESH_INSET here.
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18571 | Anycubic i3 Mega layers don't stick together/are too thin
My Anycubic i3 Mega suddenly stopped printing properly. As you can see on the images attached, the printed filament seems to be too thin which causes the layers to not stick together.
I already:
cleaned the extruder
replaced the hotend (the old one was quite dirty)
leveled the bed
increased the printing temperature (bed from 55 °C to 60 °C, nozzle from 200 °C to 215 °C and later 230 °C)
Is the ring supposed to be solid from inner diameter to outer? Conversely, should the gaps between the rings be there?
It is difficult to see if it is under extrusion or if the initial gap is too large. Do you have a better image?
I get this characteristic in the first few layers if the initial z-height is too high. Is the nozzle flattening out the extrusion or is it still round as extruded?
I have increased the extruder speed to 130%, now its working. Still no idea why...
And @fred_dot_u the gaps shouldn't be there
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18680 | Model looks differently on one leg, has holes
I am currently trying to let someone print a 3D-model of mine for school. The model was made in blender.
Everything works fine until the guy imports my model via .stl for printing.
Suddenly the model has got holes on its left leg. What is wrong? I can not find a solution.
There is a problem, with your stl file, it most probably has some inverted normals. This is quite a common problem with Blender generated files, look into this topic.
Hopefully, Trish's link specific to Blender will fix the problem. In general drawings have issues when surfaces have the inner and outer sides of the surface assigned in reverse. Extra surfaces inside the solid can also cause a problem. These surfaces need to be deleted.
There is also a dedicated Blender SE site at https://blender.stackexchange.com/ that may be worth searching.
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18653 | Weird lines in the print at specific heights
I recently upgraded my Ender 3 printer with all metal extruder and upgraded my mainboard from 4.2.2 to 4.2.7 silent board. I also added a Creality touch sensor for auto bed leveling.
Before these upgrades the prints were coming out fine. But after all these upgrades I printed the xyz calibration cube and it came out with weird lines in the print like in the below images.
It looks like there are 2 issues. One at the top where it looks like it has under extruded and the other at the bottom where it has some weird line. Also these line appears at the same exact height and I tried printing the same cube multiple times and the result is the same. I need help in figuring out what this issue is, why it is occurring and how do I fix it.
might there be a bad spot on the leadscrew?
@Trish I checked it. It looks good to me. There is no bending or deformation of the screw. Not sure what might be the issue.
Do the lines occur at the same height as inner floor and roof of the cube?
@Gauthier Yes for that xyz cube it occurs at the same height always.
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18643 | Some problems with printing on my Ender 3
This week I got an Ender 3. When printing the models, I get some inaccuracies on them. I tried printing a low-polygon chess rook, and it isn't printed accurately. It has these additional plastic printed that shouldn't be there:
It also isn't symmetrical:
On the top there should be 4 identical cuboids, but on the 2 of them there isn't plastic inside and also they are slightly wider:
This is the STL file and also the G-code file sliced by Ultimaker Cura: files
My specifications:
printer: Ender 3 (nothing is modded, no parts have been changed)
slicing software: Ultimaker Cura
slicing settings:
layer height: 0.12 mm
printing speed: 30 mm/s
initial layer printing speed: 20 mm/s
brim adhesion
quality: 0.16 mm
fan speed: 100%
I have properly calibrated the Esteps/mm and I have levelled the bed correctly.
I would really appreciate your help, I'm new to the 3D printing world.
To follow up advice from comments, I've tightened the X-axis belt and printed the calibration cube, I think now it should be good:
I'll print the rook model once more and maybe the symmetry will be good now.
have you tried running an alignment check. https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/top-ten-prints-to-calibrate-your-3d-printer
@VarunW. I haven't done these tests. Should I try doing all of them, or are there any specific ones for the problems I mentioned? Thank you.
I would try one and see which axis the problem occurs at then just timer that axis until it works.
Seems like eiterh X or Y is off - please show us a cube that has alignment marks on it, such as one that has X Y Z on the respective surfaces.
@Trish I've tightened the X belt and printed the calibration cube. Since I can't post images in the comments I've edited the question. Is the calibration cube looking good? Thank you!
The initial rook showed the clear signs of improperly tensioned belts. It is understandable to include that part into the question, but, it is part of the solution. Please remember SE sites are different than traditional forums, here we ask questions which are answered by the community or yourself through help of the comments to request additional information. Please take the [tour] and visit [help]! If belt tension is the final conclusion, please remove the part under the line in your question and put that in an answer. Thanks!
@0scar thank you, I've applied your edit. I will print the model once more tomorrow and if the belt tightening is the solution, I will post that as an answer.
So I've been trying to fix that problem and I've managed to do it. I have tightened the X axis belt and went through all configuration files on https://teachingtechyt.github.io, that fixed my problem. Thank you for helping me to solve this issue.
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18851 | What Setting In Cura Determines The Value Of "G1 E-{switch_extruder_retraction_amount}" At The Beginning Of A Print?
I am trying to print the Chep calibration cube sliced in Cura on my new Sovol SV04 Dual Extrusion printer. When I print the model the extruder prints the wipe line on the left of the bed, moves to the centre of the bed to begin the print and does a huge retraction (enough that it's almost the amount needed to change filaments), enough so that there is no filament in the nozzle and nothing comes out, I had to manually feed the filament back down in order to get it printing again.
The beginning of the G-code that Cura produces is as follows:
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:2593
;Filament used: 1.41417m
;Layer height: 0.1
;MINX:133.2
;MINY:133.2
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:168.8
;MAXY:168.8
;MAXZ:21
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.12.1
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
;Single 01 start
M140 S60.0;
M104 T0 S210.0;
M280 P0 S160;
G4 P100;
G28;
T0
M190 S60.0;
M109 T0 S210.0;
G92 E0;
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0;
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15;
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0;
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30;
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000;
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 Z{retraction_hop_height_after_extruder_switch} F12000
G1 E-16
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F2400 E-3
;LAYER_COUNT:199
;LAYER:0
The problem seems to be caused by the line G1 E-16 which I think comes from the extruder start G-code, however, I cannot seem to find what causes the retraction to be so large. The Start G-code for my printer is:
;Single 01 start
M140 S{material_bed_temperature};
M104 T0 S{material_print_temperature};
M280 P0 S160;
G4 P100;
G28;
T0
M190 S{material_bed_temperature};
M109 T0 S{material_print_temperature};
G92 E0;
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0;
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15;
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0;
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30;
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000;
And the Start Gcode for the extruder is :
G92 E0
G1 Z{retraction_hop_height_after_extruder_switch} F12000
G1 E-{switch_extruder_retraction_amount}
G92 E0
All of the settings that I have for the printer in Cura are copied over directly from Sovol's own version of Cura as I wanted to try and use one programme for all of my printers. When I slice the model in the Sovol Cura it does not seem to produce the same problem with the G-code for the model as follows:
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:2394
;Filament used: 1.43625m
;Layer height: 0.15
;MINX:136.5
;MINY:136.5
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:165.5
;MAXY:165.5
;MAXZ:20.3
;Generated with Sovol Slicer 1.3.0
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
;Single 01 start
M140 S60;
M104 T0 S190;
M280 P0 S160;
G4 P100;
G28;
T0
M190 S60;
M109 T0 S190;
G92 E0;
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0;
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15;
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0;
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30;
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000;
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 Z{retraction_hop_height_after_extruder_switch} F12000
G1 E-3
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F2100 E-3
;LAYER_COUNT:133
;LAYER:0
The G1 command is set to -3 instead of -16 and I cannot determine why.
Any help that you can give will be greatly appreciated.
The -16 is an option in Cura, please filter on switch, to make it visible:
The search for the "switch" option shows a default value of 16 for the Nozzle Switch Retraction Distance.
Your interpreted G-code contains the line G1 Z{retraction_hop_height_after_extruder_switch} F12000 which is not expanded/translated. This is defined in your extruder change start script. Please check if the Z Hop After Extruder Switch is enabled.
The Dual Extrusion options are not available due to the way the printer is set up, as copied from the Sovol Cura build, single extruder printing on the dual extruder is set up as its own printer called "Sovol SV04 Single-Mode 01" (the 01 designating the left extruder 02 the right), with only one extruder added, with dual, mirror and copy each having its own individual printer profile.
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18860 | 3D printing layer shift on power outage resume
I have an Ender 3 pro. In my country electricity outage is an issue, though it comes back pretty instantaneously, when I hit the resume button on the Ender 3 pro after heating the hot end and the bed when the hot end lifts the Y-axis or X-axis shifts a little bit, I do not understand why as when there is no power outage the prints are just flawless.
I have also tried tightening everything but feels like the motors are having their own fun tilting an extra step for no reason. I have thrown away many prints because of this problem as I work in robotics and prototyping is a necessary thing for me and so is the accuracy.
Not sure on your exact firmware, but it could be that it is using a M413 power loss recovery rather than a power loss interrupt pin. Possible you might be able to change this with your current firmware, but worst case you could install a new controller that does support this power loss interrupt pin.
Depending on the frequency and duration of your power outages it may be worth getting an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). With the heat bed off this UPS would run a full print easily. It would even handle a heat bed for shorter outages.
Where you work in robotics, you are probably electrically savvy enough to set your printer up on direct DC battery power, which would be cheaper than a UPS of equivalent energy storage. If you need help going that route just post over on electrical engineering stack exchange with the power supply info.
you'll need a UPS with EMI filter. I had this same issue and I opt to a regular desktop UPS and the problem was still there. So, I connected a EMI filter and it worked.
Hi and welcome. Could you expand upon your answer and explain why the EMI filter was required? Also, for the uninitiated, maybe explain what an EMI filter is and how it helped.
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18812 | How to tune pattern for a given infill density
Obviously the density and pattern are strictly related but seems values aren't tuned automatically according the combination of various patterns and if I change the infill density Cura chooses automatically only 2 the patterns:
always grid for lower densities <=25 % infill
always lines for higher densities >25 % infill
If I change the pattern to something different, I get a warning message
"This setting is normally calculated, but it currently has an absolute
value set."
Each pattern has specific vantages that are useful according the situation, how should I properly configure the combination infill density and infill pattern to get optimal vantage without just wasting time for more intricated patterns?
E.g.
Considering densities 20 %, 40 %, 60 % and triangle (best perpendicular resistance), cubic (best transverse resistance) and gyroid (best all around) pattern, I would get the specific vantage of each of these patterns at all densities or after a certain level, they haven't any sense?
The infill density depends on the object you are slicing. E.g. if it has a large flat top you make sure to get enough support to prevent the "roof"/top surface from collapsing (in combination with enough top layers). If the object is a pyramid for instance, you don't need much infill. I don't really understand what you are trying to achieve with this question?
@0scar "depends on the object" is implicit in the last part of question where I mention the resistance peculiarity of mentioned patterns, and the type of mechanical stress to which it is subjected during use
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18744 | Can't connect PowerBelt3D Zero to Print Server
I have tried connecting via Repertier, Pronterface, and OctoPrint. All of them fail to get a response from the handshake attempts. The OctoPrint "AUTO" setting will automatically try all common BAUDRATE values. Just to be safe, I just tried setting each of the 7 available baudrates manually and then connecting. They all timed out.
The board runs preloaded Marlin firmware, but I don't know much beyond that. The board is a BTT SKR v1.4 if that helps.
I can run all axis motors and heating elements from the display, and the PC (or RPI) will detect the USB port is active when connected to the printer, so the board seems to be good, I just can't get connected. There is virtually no support documentation that I can find for getting connected, and I emailed the PowerBelt3D company three days ago but haven't gotten a response, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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18783 | CR6-SE issues after a year and ~15 kg of PLA
I've had a CR6-SE for just over a year now and am not new to 3D printing. However, prior to this I had access to a pretty much brand new Ultimaker S5.
When my CR6-SE arrived, it was essentially plug and play. Therefore I don't have enough experience to be able to diagnose likely causes by looking at the output.
I've used the same branded PLA for the best part of a year, the black worked fine, the green worked fine (probably about 7 kg between those two), although printing at 0.28 mm layer height only ever worked with the PLA that came with the machine and a brand I have since forgotten the name of. I then switched to grey and would have print failures but only on LARGE prints (50 plus hours), and they were all layer adhesion issues. I moved the printer into a cupboard and bumped up the temperatures, but still got layer adhesion issues and a lot of weird looking layer lines. I tightened the belts and it helped a bit but still present with he gray filament.
I then got some turquoise filament and couldn't get anything to print at all with that. I initially assumed it was just something with the colouring altering the properties so got another reel of green. Same issues. Nothing would print.
I dismantled the hot end and found a huge clog, so cleaned that out, but still no successful prints (looked like it was really under extruding on the first layer) then I dismantled the extruder itself. There is some wear on the gear that extrudes the filament, but after rebuilding and tightening it up the quality of the prints is still well off what I was getting 2 weeks ago.
I've done the auto bed levelling and put a new nozzle on it.
I've messed with temp settings, from 200-220 °C and flow rate from 100 to 120 %.
Due to the time taken to change a setting and see the results, this is a very length process so I would greatly appreciate someone with more experience being able to point me in the right direction.
Attached are some photos of last nights job and the start of this mornings job before I came into work.
You have a serious under extrusion problem, please look at the extruder and report that in your question. E.g. is the extruder skipping, lever broken?
could be snags on the spool, they look like that anyway. That situation would also make it very hard to diagnose by working on or tweaking the printer itself, which you've seemed to experienced.
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15421 | Z axis no longer working on a working printer
I was printing an object and it started to drag so I stopped it.
Went to move the Z-axis up so I could clear the bed and Z-axis would not budge.
I switched the printer off and manually turned the motors to get the Z up.
Cleared the bed, switched on and homed the printer. When it came to home the Z, BLTouch deployed and then nothing. Motors will not turn.
Things I tried:
Recompiled the firmware (Marlin 2.0.x)
Different motors - Motors were free from the printer, just resting on a desk so I know it's not binding or anything.
Swapped stepper driver with a known working one.
Info about the printer:
CR10s
SKR1.4 Turbo board
TMC2208 Steppers
BLTouch
Octopi to control the printer.
Output of M122 for the Z:
Recv: Z
Recv: Address
Recv: Enabled false
Recv: Set current 1000
Recv: RMS current 994
Recv: MAX current 1402
Recv: Run current 17/31
Recv: Hold current 8/31
Recv: CS actual 8/31
Recv: PWM scale
Recv: vsense 0=.325
Recv: stealthChop true
Recv: msteps 16
Recv: tstep max
Recv: PWM thresh. 0
Recv: [mm/s] -
Recv: OT prewarn false
Recv: triggered
Recv: OTP false
Recv: pwm scale sum 10
Recv: pwm scale auto 0
Recv: pwm offset auto 36
Recv: pwm grad auto 14
Recv: off time 4
Recv: blank time 24
Recv: hysteresis
Recv: -end 2
Recv: -start 1
Recv: Stallguard thrs
Recv: uStep count 40
Recv: DRVSTATUS Z
Recv: sg_result
Recv: stst
Recv: olb
Recv: ola
Recv: s2gb
Recv: s2ga
Recv: otpw
Recv: to
Recv: 157C
Recv: 150C
Recv: 143C
Recv: 120C
Recv: s2vsa
Recv: s2vsb
Recv: Driver registers:
Recv: Z 0xC0:08:00:00
Recv:
Recv:
Recv: Testing Z connection... OK
First I suspected this could be faulty Z motor cable (broken wire, etc.). The G-Code M122 is for communication with the driver board. There can be almost no feedback from motor itself (there are just 2 pairs of coil wires) ...almost, because we can see Testing Z connection... OK. But anyway, to be on safe side, did you doublecheck with multimeter that Z motor cable is properly conducting? (There is only one Z motor in this printer, isn't it?)
Sincere apologies for your question being temporarily closed - it was an admin error. Please add the "Update" as an Answer, even though it wasn't quite resolved, because putting the solution inside the question breaks the Q&A mechanism of the site. Many thanks.
For "suddenly have this issue" the only explanation I have is that of Z steps/mm set to 0, and could happen unintentionally (from LCD or with M92). (Unless someone recompiled firmware with changed settings, then it's suddenly no more.) So @Gaz83, could I propose to accept my answer and have this question closed already?
It could be caused by software or configuration issue.
Possibility 1: just worked after re-installation of Marlin
You could have Z steps/mm set to 0 in EEPROM, and did not notice that fact.
It is possible to fix this unconsciously with Marlin software reinstallation, following the upgrade procedure which included reset of EEPROM settings - like "Step 4: Finishing touches" described in community wiki's guide for Updating Marlin Firmware. This is described in more details in another post No stepper motor movement on Ender 3 Pro.
Possibility 2: Marlin configuration is not correct
When you recompiled Marlin, did you use already proven configuration for Marlin? When saying "Motors will not turn" you mean only Z? Are your other motors are still functional now after Marlin was deployed?
Among other Marlin settings, you may want to check that this line is disabled in Configuration_adv.h:
/**
* Software enable
*
* Use for drivers that do not use a dedicated enable pin, but rather handle the same
* function through a communication line such as SPI or UART.
*/
//#define SOFTWARE_DRIVER_ENABLE
(I took this advice from No Motor Power With TMC2209 on RepRap forum.)
Yes I used the copy I already had, just recompiled. Yes X and Y worked fine
Thank you for the feedback. And it is good to hear that you have resolved your issue. If you would like to find a root cause - then if reinstallation od software helped after you "deleted your Marlin" and "a fresh downloaded copy" worked better, then maybe there was a difference in (1) configuration or (2) the code (at least version of Marlin). If there are no justifiable differences, I have a very good theory - so I will improve my answer.
The only problem with possibility 1 was that the printer was running. It had homed and started printing. I then Paused using octopi (pause button, not in terminal) and then used the controls to try and move Z up and that's when it stops. So there was no M92, or any other commands, used. I appreciate the support.
Compilation errors happen.
Issue seems to be resolved. I deleted my Marlin copy, downloaded a fresh copy and I started again.
What worries me is how a working copy and a working printer can suddenly have this issue. Feel like this issue could come back as I never found the root cause.
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15444 | Which 3D printer to print heat-resistant material?
I need to print a rotor for a DC motor I'm designing. In the process of testing the behaviors of the motor performances, I would need a material that will not deform at a temperature range between 100 °C to 150 °C.
Since I don't have a 3D printer yet, I would like to know what would be the best choice for my need.
I was planning to buy an Ender 3, but I'm not sure this entry-level 3D printer will allow me to obtain the results I'm looking for. I'm excluding PLA material because I think it's the most "fragile" material from this point of view and for my needs.
My questions are:
Which material should I use in order to have a 3D printed object (rotor) that will not deform at a temperature that varies from 100 °C to 150 °C?
Can an Ender 3 (planning to use full metal hotend and also hotbed) be used to print the filament that is heat resistant? Should I buy a resin 3D printer?
I think there should be only one question per "question".
The problem with two questions is you have two different answers to two different questions, but you are only allowed to select one as answering your question.
This question would be better off by splitting the 2 questions in 2 separate questions. The current accepted answer does not answer the question in the title, that seems a bit odd. Either change the title, split the questions or rewrite the question to be more about the materials. I don't see a simple Ender printer be able to print e.g. PEEK. This might involve heavy modifications, NASA has done some effort including infrared lamps with that respect.
If you print the part with PLA (for ease of printing), you can then create a mould with high-temperature silicone and use that to cast pewter. In case that gives you some useful ideas.
PEEK (poly ether ether ketone) has a glass transition temperature of 145 °C (293 °F).
Melting temperature
345 °C (653 °F)
Nozzle temperature
370 - 410 °C
Heated bed
120 - 150 °C
Polycarbonate has a glass transition temperature of about 147 °C (297 °F)
Polypropylene has a glass transition temperature is 215 °C
Polymaker PolyMide CoPA (specialized Nylon) Filament has a softening temperature of ~180 °C, but they don't specify the glass transition temperature. Other materials have the glass transition temperature about 5 °C below the temperature the material softens.
However, the glass transition temperature is only an indication of a physical change: while uncommon, a material may be rigid enough well above it's glass transition temperature. How to interpret various thermal-related filament properties?
A side issue to consider as far as layout is FDM prints are weakest between layers (layer separation), so you want a layout where this affects your print the least.
Polymaker CoPA (nylon, modified) should not deform up to 180°C.
Does glass transition mean that it will start to deformate at that temperature? (ie for Polypropylene 215°C)
Glass transition means it is starting to move from solid to liquid, but doesn't have a distinct melting temperature with heat of fusion. The material gradually gets easier to deform as the temperature goes above the glass transition temperature.
@PerryWebb it depends, it's not a clear distinction. Plastics deform permanently also below the glass transition temperature (creep), and some are use routinely above their glass transition temperature without deformation. It's just a physical parameter that typically relates to a sudden increase of plasticity, but not always...
H/LDPE, POM, PP all have glass transition temperature below 0 °C but still are perfectly solid at room temperature. See https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/glass-transition-temperature
+1 for PEEK, it has great dimensional stability at a wide range of temperatures. If printing in PEEK, do some research on annealing for longer crystals and increased strength.
@PerryWebb maybe you want to add a link to https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15490/how-to-interpret-various-thermal-related-filament-properties for the table with properties
Using an Ender 3 for high temperature materials is possible but you need to enclose it to be able to heat the air up to 100 °C.
It's quite involved and it would be much better, if it's something you do seldomly, to have the parts printed professionally.
Many thing start warping or breaking at 100 °C.
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15413 | Labists ET4 printer nozzle hits bed after automatic levelling
I use Slic3r to create G-codes for my Labists ET4 printer. Usually, no problem.
Now, as soon as I tried to start a print, the nozzle head went down as usual, but this time it went a bit lower than 0 and the machine made angry noises for less than a second.
It went back up again and heated the bed and the nozzle, only to go back down too strongly with angry noises again. Even left a little pokey hole on the bed.
I got scared and turned the machine's switch off and manually raised the Z axis with ease.
Never had this problem before and now I'm afraid to turn on my machine.
I've had the following setup for G-codes prior to today's incident and it had worked just fine:
G28 ; Home extruder
G1 Z15 F[travel_speed]
M106 S[max_fan_speed]; Turn on fan
G90 ; Absolute positioning
M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode
; Activate all used extruder
M104 T0 S[first_layer_temperature]
M190 S[bed_temperature]
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position
; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature
M109 T0 S[first_layer_temperature]
After this, I did try the auto levelling, however it still tried to plow into the bed, albeit not as angrily.
Here's other things to potentially consider:
I haven't used the machine 10 days.
It's been chilly in the room where the machine is.
So here's my questions:
"What could cause a 3D printer to have an incorrect impression of Z-axis=0 even in absolute position mode?"
"What can I do to fix it?"
Hi @0scar! I added info. Unfortunately the auto levelling still had the nozzle attempt to burrow into the bed. Not sure what my next step should be :/
That is quite strange, the sensor should have established the level seen from the top.
I guess your comment made me try something! I just passed a clean fabric around the nozzle and found a bit of soot (!?) had settled and may have blinded the machine. Thank you!
So it probably is a build-up of molten carbonized filament, yes, that makes that the "nozzle + gunk" hits the bed after leveling. Heat up the hotend and remove all the additional material on the nozzle.
This is not an Anet ET4 then! I've updated the question for you!
Dirt. It was dirt. Most likely.
Apparently the machine establishes bed level with a sensor, and I might be wrong, but I think the ET4 monitors capacitance as a means to notice how far the nozzle is from the bed.
After all else failed I looked at the nozzle closely and noticed that the whole thing looked fuzzy. Looks like soot (from where though!?) had settled on the machine's sensitive components and de facto blind-folded its sensor.
A wipe and a levelling later, all was back to normal. Yay!
metal, carbon, or filament dust deposits can drastically alter the capacity
The strange thing is is that the Anet ET4 uses an external sensor based on nozzle pressure that you connect during the levelling phase to the loose connector hanging next to the hotend. It doesn't use a inductive or capacitive sensor, it uses this sensor.
@0scar Is it possible that there are two different ET4? Cause mine is from Labists and I don't recognize this probe?
I've changed the question to the correct printer. There are 2 ET4 printers! Yours does use an inductive sensor!
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15392 | CR-6 SE glass build plate - no lifting possible
I've been dealing with 3D printing for 1.5 years, but now own a CR-6 SE myself since the beginning of 2021. Most things are already quite clear but for 2 days I have had a problem with the adhesion of the prints.
Nearly all prints I have done so far used the filament shipped with the printer (PLA 1.75) and they came off the building plate after some cooling time by themselves. I used the default printer settings for PLA: 200 °C nozzle temperature, 60 °C printing bed.
Then 2 days ago the prints began to not stick to the bed anymore and I thought this could be because of dust and from touching the bed. So I cleaned the bed with IPA. The microfiber towel was yellowish afterward - so I thought that this must have been printing residues. Since then every print is kind of "welded" to the bed. There is no chance of loosening it without more IPA or way too much force.
I already tried:
cleaning the bed with clean water - unfortunately, didn't work
setting the Z-offset from 0.1 back to 0.2 mm - also no success
Today I also tried a spool of brand new PETG, with the following recommended settings: 240 °C nozzle temperature, 80 °C print bed - but the problem stayed the same.
Am I doing something wrong? Did I destroy the "Carborundum" coating (silicon carbide) of the glass plate?
Hi @nioerd. I am curious about this printer and I was reading some reviews and issue lists. Your history made me wonder - and I found a remark on Cr-6 se adhesion problems with worrying comment: "Take care to not clean bed with any dissolvant or IPA. This will remove the resin (I don't remember the name) that allow to attach the first layer when bed is hot. to clean the bed on cr6SE only clean it with hot water and dish cleaner (hot water is enough most of the case (see cr6se specific topic)."
Then I probably broke the build plate - then I have no choice but to buy a new one.
Interesting. I have seen several websites and YouTube videos recommending the use of IPA.
Yes, indeed, there are many. But I saw a message in similar tone here: How to clean carborundum glass plate, it may be currently active thread. @nioerd, if you will buy a replacement, watch dimensions, because I also noticed few people complained about buying "replacement" which has sides of 235mm instead of 245mm (which is supposed to be the real size).
@octopus8 Thanks for the hint with the size! I nearly ordered 2 pieces of the 235x235 ones. Now I checked again and the correct measurements are 245 x 255mm. From what I can see the only dealer to buy a new one from is from AliExpress? Any suggestions for Germany?
That is not my suggestion - but the warning I got from Looking for a newbuild plate for my CR-6 SE discussion. There is a direct link to glass in 3djake shop. I opened, and there are variants to pick and table of dimensions, matching exactly what you provided. (The glass itself is too few for free shipping, but there is always lot o spare parts to consider. ;) )
It is likely the surface was damaged by the chemical cleaning, based on your description and octopus8's comment. If you are unable to mechanically release the print, there is a chemical method that has worked for me (and at least one other SE user) in the past.
Bring the bed up to about 40 °C and turn off the heat to the bed. Apply with a dropper or swab a 50/50 mixture of denatured alcohol and water. It will seep under the part as well as evaporate. Attempt the mechanical release. If it fails, apply additional mixture and repeat. Continue to do this until the mixture does not evaporate as quickly.
If the part has not released, it may be necessary to repeat the heating and application.
If you wish to return to "normal" circumstances, a bed replacement is indicated.
Thanks for the tip, I will keep that in memory. One argument for buying this printer was the glass plate for easy removal - so always using your trick would not be my preferred option.
Is there a way to renew the coating?
actually, the method is physics based - cappilary effect.
one P, two Ls for capillary (grin)
I have had similar issues, and I have learned three tricks:
Some slicers (i.e. Cura) let you specify the height of your first layer, and I have found that slowly incrementing up from 0.16 mm by 0.2 mm to find the sweet spot of adhesion without warping. Every brand/type is different. But, usually, for me, fall between 0.18-0.22 mm.
Blue painters tape. If you don't need the glass flat finish of printing directly to glass, I always use blue tape. It makes for great adhesion, and also easy removal of super stuck prints, and you can just peel it off the build plate. With blue tape, I tend to add 2-3 °C to the bed temp.
Glue sticks (instead of hairspray). But, Elmer's glue sticks that go on purple and dry clear. When you use these, if a print is stuck, you just need to spritz some water around the print. The print and the glue will wick the water under the print, and reconstitute the glue. Once the glue is tacky again, the print will pop right off. The only downside is a slight texture to the print and not glossy glass flat.
The reason I like the colored glue, as it reconstitutes it activates the cobalt chloride and turns purple again. This is great for knowing when it is good to start printing again. And also tends to become less of a sticky mess than hairspray.
Actually the CR-6SE's build-plate side with the logo is textured. The other side is untextured - so far I didn't try to print on it - but I can imagine that it should work as well.
Am I doing something wrong? Did I destroy the "Carborundum" coating (silicon carbide) of the glass plate?
I doubt it. Silicon carbide is tough stuff: it's a 9.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, just half a notch below diamond. They make router bits and end mills and the teeth of table saw blades out of it, and people clean all of those with much stronger solvents than isopropyl alcohol. I don't know what other ingredients Creality uses in their carborundum coating or whether they might be susceptible to solvents, but I'd be surprised if the alcohol you used did any real damage.
So I cleaned the bed with IPA. The microfiber towel was yellowish afterward - so I thought that this must have been printing residues. Since then every print is kind of "welded" to the bed.
I had a similar experience, except that I cleaned with acetone instead of alcohol. My impression, too, is that the yellow stuff is some sort of residue left by PLA. If you print the same object several times in the same spot on the bed, you can begin to see a slightly shiny footprint of the object on the bed. You'll eventually notice a loss of adhesion in that spot, and the bed will feel a bit slick there. A small amount of acetone on a paper towel removes the footprint entirely, but you end up with a yellow spot on the towel that doesn't appear if you use the same procedure in a spot where there's been no printing.
I've also had object stick so strongly to the bed that they seem like they won't ever come off, and I think it's just a sign that a clean carborundum bed does its job very well. The best way to get them off, at least for me, is to apply a liberal dose of patience. I usually want to remove the part right away, but I find that if I let the bed cool down even to 50 °C, it's much easier to pop the part off.
Update: With the carborundum bed, adhesion is very sensitive to the height of the nozzle above the bed. If you have the bed set a bit too close to the nozzle, the PLA seems to really smoosh into the bed and grab on making the print hard to remove. If the bed is set lower, the PLA lines sit on top and don't smoosh in at all, and you don't get enough adhesion. There's a sweet spot in between the two, where the print sticks well enough that it takes a little effort to remove, but pops off with some coaxing. For me, using a sheet of printer paper as a gauge, it's about where I can feel the vibrations of the fan through the paper, but just barely, and the paper still slides easily between nozzle and bed. Your results may be different depending on the paper you use. Another way to tell you're on the right track is that the individual lines in the skirt should fuse together, but you want to be close to the point where they don't.
That's very interesting - I really have to check this. Since my first post, I only tried again with hairspray and it worked very well. Without the hairspray, the interesting point is that I waited for several hours and the print didn't separate more easily.
@nioerd Where most people use hair spray to increase adhesion, it sounds like you're using it as a release agent! Interesting. I'll update the answer with a bit more about adhesion with this bed.
@nioerd You can pop it in the fridge for half an hour (with hairspray) for a clean release, IME.
Sounds like the bed came with a coating on it. If you can't find out what the coating is, but believe you already removed it, you could try glue sticks or hair spray. You can also find glue sticks specified for 3D printing. Elmer's glue sticks work. I'm yet to try glue sticks specified for a 3D printer. You can Search on 3D Printing for answers where people used adhesive sprays. The link in octopus8's comment mentions a resin coating. There are resin coatings being sold for a bed adhesive.
Thanks for your comment - I will have a look on the glue sticks. Hairspray was already planned for next week. I will also search for these special adhesive sprays. I also read about blue tape - the only problem is, that it is only rated to 80 degrees.
OP comment from question: "I cleaned the plate ones again with IPA and then used hairspray as recommended by @Perry Webb - works again as expected".
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15381 | Top layer and walls have gaps even with 120 % flow (Cura)
I'm printing with Geeetech A20 printer, PLA.
I've started printing the same test piece while changing the following parameters:
Temperature from 215 °C to 195 °C (lowering by 5 °C on each print)
Flow multiplier from 100 % to 120 % (increasing 5 % on each print)
Speed on two first prints was 60 mm/s and on two last 40 mm/s
Bed leveling is perfect, the hardware seems to be in tact, the nozzle is clean and still the walls on the outer curve print well all the time, but in the inner circle they seem to be under extruded (even though flow is up to 120 %)
I am planning on going on with these tests until I get the perfect print, but I am hoping somebody can guide me on what to try next.
I've been reading about the issues on so many articles that now my head is a mess and I just need some clear instructions.
Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! To me this looks like a heat creep issue, it is difficult to see. Does the first few millimeter print fine? Has it always printed well? Are these the first prints? What has changed? New/old PLA, firmware update, etc... Please provide more info by [edit]!
@Afron did you find the answer for your question already? How close was it to my hints below?
You are lowering temperature and increase the flow at the same time - which is contradictory (filament is less runny, but you pump more of it). Though 195 °C seems to be very safe for printing PLA at 40 mm/s. Just doublecheck that when you disable motors, and push filament with hand, it melts quickly and easily goes out. Otherwise you will deal with temperature-related issue.
Outer walls are usually printed slower, and even when underextruded, part of line may appear constant thanks to leaking filament (it has time). Next retraction will cause stop leaking, and the other wall is printed with almost no pressure. Maybe your constant issue with "inner circle" is just a consequence of such moves.
My suggestions:
Did you calibrate the extruder (steps per mm)? - if not yet, do it (it's a basic skill); to quickly check if this could help, try to continue increasing flow by 5% and observe what will happen then, because maybe this is simple underextrusion due to incorrect steps/mm?
Are you sure that extruder motor is not loosing steps? (e.g. too weak motor against the pressure)
Are you sure that filament is not slipping? (e.g. blunt driver's teeth, or too loose idler)
Could you unintentionally enable volumetric extrusion?
Thank you. It was the volumetric extrusion that was enabled and caused the issue!
It's fantastic that you found the root cause. Thank you for sending pictures in original questions, this is of great help. Have a great prints!
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15495 | How to print at low temperatures (filament melting at about 70 °C)?
I'm using Cura to slice prints from a biodegradable polyester called PCL (Polycaprolactone).
I need to print @ ~70 °C but extruder does not run until nozzle reaches 175 °C.
Which setting to change so extruder will turn on when nozzle temperature has reached 70 °C?
Here are my settings for the material:
You do not need to use "starting" and "final" printing temperature, only "Printing Temperature" is needed. Can there be a minimum temperature at play here? E.g. usually there are cold extrusion prevention temperatures at play in he firmware, but that doesn't explain that the hot end heats up to 175 °C. Please add the first 30 or so G-code lines.
Hi oscar, i suspect it is the cold extrusion protection. It is using Marlin. The extruder motor will not turn on until at least 175 °C. How do i disable the cold extrusion setting? Or change the minium temperature from Cura? Or doo i have to install firmware with editted configure? Appreciate it!
So i looked through the g-code and added in M308 and M17 settings, still nothing. I really have no idea why the extruder is not being turned on. Is there a specific g-code to turn it on? In the code, the e axis is on though
Please read the answer below to disable it. Cold extrusion prevention was the first thing that came to mind. I wondered why the temperature reached over 170, but that was done by you apparently .
70 °C is a specialty filament. It is well below the MIN_TEMP defined in any sane firmware. In Marlin, you can't turn on the extruder in any way, while this is online.
You do need to define your firmware to allow such a print - either by dropping the value in the firmware or disabling Mintemp-protection and then flashing that firmware. That is quite invasive.
To temporarily disable the MIN_TEMP, you need to run the G-code M302 P1 or M302 S0 - M302 on its own does nothing. However, some firmware distributions might explicitly prevent these two commands of turning off the check.
In that case, you might use M302 S65 or similar to drop the MIN_TEMP.
Thx, i have added the flags too, still nothing. Any thoughts?
@JorgeMercent that seems like your firmware bans those two because someone wanted to be smart in writing it. A lower min-Temp is the solution then.
If one's firmware has no override, an alternative solution without flashing might be wiring an additional resistor to fake the output of the thermistor and shift it up to a range the firmware allows printing at. Depending on if you're more comfortable with software or electronics this could be either easier or harder.
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE that's.... tricky and might be dangerous in case you miscalculate: you practically loose temperature control if your resistor is off by half a percent!
In Cura Machine Settings, add M302 S70.
Apparently, M302 P1 and M302 S0 do nothing, you need to define a non-zero minimum, and in my case, 70. Thanks to 0scar and Trish for your help.
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15498 | CR6-SE fails to heat hotend to set point
TL;DR - Please help me rebuild my CR-6 SE so that I can move on
Here's a link to the latest issue that I had to make proof of in a video: CR6-SE failed
Basically, it's failing to reach/maintain temperature (set point of 240 °C, fails to heat above 230 °C), issues start to happen at temps as low as 210 °C.
Creality support is evasive/dodgy. First, they want to see a video proof for the problem reported, and after a while and emails from me asking, suggested something obvious (set temp to 200 °C).
And without any video, they don't respond. Just like last time when I ran into the defective/burned power switch and failed bed leveling.
If you have some spare time, please quickly check the video and provide some feedback.
I already fixed the burned power switch and auto-leveling (Creality ignored me, so I got the parts from Amazon).
This is the last issue that I need to do a "mercy" fix, so that I can either repurpose it or, just give it away (but I still have to make it working again and safe!).
I already placed an order for an i3 MK3S+, should've bought this in the first place to help me study 3D modeling, not working my degree towards fixing Creality printer failures :)
Thanks in advance.
My troubleshooting steps so far after a screw fell off during print:
Disassembled the hotend: found heater block loose, screws were bent and somewhat stripped
Heater resistor has a bad crimp
Thermistor is reading temp, but I don't know if it's accurate (don't have a multimeter+thermocouple)
Ordered a hotend from AliExpress, hopefully, that's it
Just to doublecheck, as there is no sound in the video. You don't have a nozzle fan turned on during heating? Please check my suggestion about PID tuning.
Yes, I disabled audio in OBS.
I advice to buy digital electronic multimeter, even very basic. Learn how to use it, because mistakes may be dangerous: for electronics or for you (in case of high voltage, etc.). For me it is the very basic tool. And thermocouple ... not needed for standard calibration and troubleshooting, I think it is nice addition which may help from time to time.
Thanks. I have 2 Fluke meters at home. I just don't have one that can do temp.
I'm a retired HW Eng. that's bored at home and jobless and trying to learn the latest 3D modeling & etc. :)
Perform PID calibration procedure for hotend using G-code 'M303' with nozzle fans turned off completely.
You may use detailed guidelines from AK Eric's blog, RepRap wiki or 3DMaker Engineering.
If this will improve or clearly change the situation, but you still observe some issues during or after tuning, review other posts for troubleshooting. For example: large initial overshoot, no oscillations, struggle to fit into functional range or narrowed down hardware issues of incorrect heating cartridges.
When succeeded, you should repeat the procedure with fans enabled at the regular speed you use during printing.
PID calibration can be performed from Marlin's LCD menu (Configuration > Advanced Settings > Temperature > PID Autotune E1). It will allow to select target temperature, but not number of tuning cycles. It is only accessible when PID_AUTOTUNE_MENU is enabled in firmware settings (Configuration.h):
//#define PID_EDIT_MENU // Add PID editing to the "Advanced Settings" menu. (~700 bytes of PROGMEM)
#define PID_AUTOTUNE_MENU // Add PID auto-tuning to the "Advanced Settings" menu. (~250 bytes of PROGMEM)
Thank you! This is really helpful.
I will follow the guidelines; I always want to know how to calibrate the PID, especially now that I'm gonna be replacing the hotend assembly. Knowing how this thing works, it's probably not gonna be a swap-and-run operation.
Since my heater block is stripped (the screws are harder than the block), I might just play around with it until the parts arrived.
BTW: Will I need something like this for cal?
https://amz.run/4Geu
No, for PID calibration, you do not need any extra tools. This is just running few G-code commands with serial terminal. Quicker for hotend than for bed (same process, but just takes longer). It will take you about 30 min for first time, including reading, so you will quickly confirm that this was just calibration. I hope to hear from you soon.
I don't think PID calibration would help out in this case. There is a ton of issues with this printer type.
@0scar It doesn't hurt, plus I get to learn something new. Agreed that there's a ton of issues with this printer type. But I also think, the biggest issue is with this company (Creality).
@bigpow True, PID tuning is something that does not hurt, can be a challenge sometimes. I think the offset is too big to be fixed by a different D(ifferentiator). I suspect that there is a problem with the power connector.
I replaced the hotend with parts bought from AliExpress.
My printer is now able to reach/maintain temperature and complete prints successfully (no more heating failure).
BTW:
It's harder to buy replacement parts for CR-6 (as compared to other Creality printers).
There were only 2 type of replacement hotend parts for sale on AliExpress at the time I was shopping:
40 USD for a full assembly (with carriage)
28 USD for a nozzle kit.
There's an Amazon seller and a Canadian 3D printer store that sells individual parts, e.g.: heater block, but the prices are relatively expensive.
I bought a full assembly, but a nozzle kit would have worked as well.
Also, it looks like they're fixing their production process; my new hotend assembly was built better, even with what appear to be the same parts.
Not pretty, but at least it's printing - Hopefully this is it.
Ok, so you have replaced the "thermistor"? And it helped, great. Btw. did you calibrate the PID after modification? ;) I am not kidding, could help to keep temperature in check. There are striiiiiiiings, lower the hotend temp. But cooling seems good looking at the rear pipe.
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15503 | Issue with Z homing on Ender 3 Pro with Marlin
I've just changed the motherboard on my Ender 3 Pro with a MKS GEN_L v1.0 and flashed the latest Marlin version on it.
I've calibrated my bed manually using the default XY and Z auto home commands on OctoPrint and a piece of paper.
I'm happy with the calibration, however whenever I launch a print the Z axis moves up from the calibrated position by about 4 mm and starts extruding.
I've checked my Z endstop status with M119 and it's triggered at the right calibrated position.
How can I correct this?
Looks like it is accounting for an imaginary glass bed. So it homes next to the build plate, but afterwards moves up to 4 mm? Could be an offset at play. You have the config files, so you need to figure that out, or did you flash a ready made binary file?
4 mm is a typical glass sheet
This is most probably caused by uploading a preconfigured binary firmware, changing the Z offset has been discussed before, e.g. here and here.
I've actually found what the issue was. It turns out that my Z steps were way out of whack (i.e. 4000 steps/mm instead of 400). Apparently, that's the default value in GitHub for version 2.0 of Marlin. Not sure if that's a typo or a valid value, anyhow setting it to 400 fixed it.
Thanks for feedback. I will add this also to my answer (the checklist, let's say).
If you are already sure that homing is performed correctly and in valid position, then there are few reasons why printer may start printing in unexpected position.
Do the following checks to narrow down the actual one:
steps/mm: use M503 (or M92 without parameters) to check if currently configured steps/mm match your hardware setup for each axis
offsets: use M503 (or M206 without parameters) to check that there are no offsets configured
backoff: look in Configuration_adv.h for following line:
//#define HOMING_BACKOFF_POST_MM { 2, 2, 2 } // (mm) Backoff from endstops after homing
(Having the backoff set is nothing wrong, actually. But be sure to also check final positioning in the generated file.)
slicer's Start G-code: review slicer configuration, if there is nothing suspicious injected to the print file, which could temporarily overrid printer setup - esepecially M428, M206, G92 (set position is normal for E in relative extrusion mode, but suspicious for X,Y,Z)
generated file: review initial part of generated G-Code file, if there are any similar surprises, and if on initial layer section there is expected move to valid Z position before extrusion is made
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15606 | How do filament properties change after printing? (In relation to water absorbtion)
I have PLA and PETG filament.
I hear that 3D filament absorbs water and causes problems when printing but after printing they can be used with water and they are water proof.
So my question is why is it different after printing/what has changed to make it now waterproof?
Is PETG waterproof or does it absorb water?
Is there a limit on how much water PETG can absorb or will it keep going until it splits and turns to mush?
The properties of the maternal are not what changes after you print. It is how you use the material. PLA and ABS prints aren't usually subject to +100 °C after printing.
When PLA absorbs moisture it becomes brittle. PLA filament will break when trying to print. Your PLA print may be thick enough so that brittle doesn't cause a problem. However, this can be a problem if you intend your PLA print to be flexible.
The main issue with PETG absorbing moisture is the water changing to steam in the extruder. PETG becomes soft and will distort with force applied at +100 °C; so generally moisture isn't a issue with PETG prints, due to application.
PLA and PETG absorb moisture, but do not dissolve in water. Usually what a person means by waterproofing is water won't seep through the layers of the material and leak out of a container. Note: most glass will absorb small amounts of moisture, but are still waterproof.
If one wants a hermetic seal this is a similar issue. One person printing hermetic prints said thicker layers make it easier to be hermetic. Thicker layers also tend to make the printer stronger, but can also give less detail in the print.
Filament that absorbs water prior to printing is subject to boiling temperatures as it passes through the heater block. In extreme cases, steam will be visible and a spitting sound will be heard. The filament will expand as the water exits, causing multiple structural and printing problems.
Once printed, dry filament may absorb water from the atmosphere, but is unlikely to be subject to boiling temperatures.
Waterproofing as a general consideration usually means the ability to keep water out, which is possible if the model is sealed and some printing conditions will adhere each layer well enough to the previous one to provide floating-type waterproofing.
PETG is hydroscopic, which means it will absorb moisture from the air. When printed properly (layer adhesion), the model can be waterproof.
These terms are independent and should not be used interchangeably.
How can it be waterproof and absorb water at the same time?
Also wouldn’t the print split between the layers if it absorbed too much water
If the model is going to absorb enough moisture to split layers, it's been immersed for far too long and under extreme pressure. 3D models are used in radio control boating with no problem. One should seal or otherwise coat a boat to ensure that any gaps are closed.
Would it work as a bath tub plug/a tap attachment/hose nozzle or would that just not be possible with PETG alone
Let's distinguish first three things:
Hygroscopic behavior. The ability of a substance to absorb water. Salt is very Hygroscopic.
Watertight open-shell. A boat is watertight against water from below. But you can pour water into it. Putting a lid on seals such a body somewhat, but the gap allows water to seep in.
Watertight closed-shell. A sphere is water tight against water from all sides. You can not pour water into it, no lid needed.
Now, hygroscopic behavior of filament has can create a huge hazzle when printing: Waterlogged filament creates lots of problems, like spazzing, steam, foaming and others. This can result in a watertight designed print being printed in a gappy fashion or result in lack of strength or many other results.
Watertightness of a shell - open or closed - is primarily a result of the design and well fused lines. In my experience, 2 shells can be watertight, 3 shells upwards is almost always watertight. The main problems are with tops, where I experienced that the minimum tops and bottom layers need to be 4, better even 5. But this is dependant on your print quality - and you might need more or less dependant on your settings.
Under stress, like in an RC boat hitting into waves, the inter-layer bonds are the ones that would break first, breaking the shell likewise. To strengthen both the shell and ensure water tightness, polymer lacquers like acrylic paint, guitar lacquer or even epoxy resin (2-component epoxy resin is a very common glue) have been used successfully to create much strengthened and polished surfaces in RC projects. But you don't need to go through these steps unless you really want to.
After printing, a hygroscopic filament still undergoes the same processes and might undergo strength shifts. Sintered-Nylon for example might become heavier and softer if waterlogged. Such material also can't be frozen, the contained water can destroy the print.
For a bath-plug, I just would print the item as a "solid" body from TPU - TPU is after all the opposite of Hygroscopic: it's Hydrophobic. The next best "easy" material is ABS (as you can seal the surface using a little acetone vapor and can withstand 80 °C water for some time without deforming), then PLA (it's barely hygroscopic, but does not like hot water), and likewise PETG will do for some time, possibly better with the heat. Unless you put it in a freezer, it will keep the water in the tub long enough to take a bath.
But would petg work instead of tpu because I don’t have the money for epoxy or tpu filament. Also apparently tpu is not food grade/food safe so if I use it for a bath plug it can be harmful to the body
I'd prefer PLA for a bathplug (it's less hygroscopic), but PETG will work in a pitch. Just print it as solid as possible
Do you have any suggestions on a food grade sealer for prints because I have no knowledge on what to get. I have heard epoxy but I can find one that is food grade
You said it will keep the water In the tub long enough. Does that mean it will break after taking it out or does that mean it will be mostly fine because it is not used for long periods of time. Because I don’t want a print splitting and jamming something up
as a stiff part, the seal will be less good than a flexible plug. Any material will work well enough if designed well. In regards to Food Grade: No, I have no suggestion for any brand. Also, Food grade certified food safe FDM printing is Hard.
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13632 | Nozzle jiggles when screwing into heating block
I've had the Ender 5 Pro, as is, for 3 months.
After I tried a cheap PLA filament (maybe too cheap), it clogged the nozzle. I cleaned it, but any other filament I have would have similar problems from then on. After some days doing test prints, it clogged again. This time, I heated it up to 240 ºC, I unscrew the nozzle, cleaned it up, chopped the Capricorn tube (it had clear symptoms of a previous tube not reaching the bottom of the hotend and leaking material around it), perfectly aligned, cleaned the heating block with a brass brush, started screwing the nozzle… and it never reaches the end. It even jiggles a little bit (by "jiggles", I mean that when the hotend is hot, you can push the nozzle back and forth, and it does move... like it was a joint, and not a threaded bolt), like it was too small for the block. I try screwing a new nozzle. Same happens.
To me it looks like the heating block thread broke, but I can't be sure. I tried a thicker nozzle (0.8 mm, but same thread in the end) and it worked. I could feed filament and it wouldn't look like clogged (at least for 15 cm of feeding filament, when in previous cases it was almost instantaneous).
Time to get a new heating block? Any recommendation?
Would another kind of heating block be better?
Edit: Here's a picture of the bottom of the heating block. Now it's clear there's a metal chip glued with material, and almost (if any) no thread at all.
Another question. Could it have been that cheap material that caused the clogging, or was it just a lack of proper maintenance?
By "jiggles", do you mean you can continue turning it indefinitely without it stopping, or just that once it stops, it's not rigigly held in place. I think you almost surely have damaged threads in the heating block, possibly with just barely enough working to hold some nozzles but not others. Can you get suitable light and camera angle to take a picture that would let you look at the threads? This would likely be the best way to confirm. If they are damaged badly enough not to hold a nozzle rigidly, you should replace the heating block, but there might be hacks you could do to keep using it.
You need to order a new heating block (just a few bucks/euros, so order 2, and spare nozzles, you don't want to install the old nozzles), you completely worn out the threads, this is beyond repair. It looks as if you used too much force to secure the nozzle into place.
This is how it is supposed to look:
You can find these cheaply at those typical Chinese vending platforms or online marketplaces. Just search for and Ender / CR-10 heater block.
Typical dimensions are found below:
Thanks! Do you recommend also buying a new throat (or maybe the whole hotend straight away)?
@Korcholis Yes buy new throats also, always handy to have spares.
If the threads are damaged badly enough not to hold a nozzle rigidly, you should replace the heating block, but there might be hacks you could do to keep using it for a while until you're ready to replace. I've had luck replacing threads in completely unrelated applications with epoxy, and if you can get one that handles and transmits the heat well enough (maybe JB Weld? not sure) it might work here.
I don't think there's any indication you need to change to a different kind of heating block. That would only be indicated if there were lots of other people reporting the same problem you're having with your printer model or similar ones. It seems more likely that, if they're damaged, you just did it by over-tightening or over-vigorous cleaning with the brush.
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13559 | My 3D model is printing with missing parts when sliced in Ultimaker Cura
I have been working hard the last year on the model below. I am new to everything 3D that is modeling and especially 3D printing. I have however successfully concluded quite a good number of 3D prints which I created in blender with my Creality Ender 3 Pro so I have a bit of experience.
All this new experience for me started with the desire to do this project I have been working on for all this year. A complex 3D model of a knight's tomb which I would like to print.
As you can see Cura is clearly indicating that there is a need for supports in these red areas. The model will be printed in a 15 cm size. I have also managed to resize the model from a 22 million face mesh full of holes to a 900k manifold model.
However, when I slice it I get this.
As you can see supports are only generated for the outer column part. None are generated for the arches which are totally absent when the model is sliced.
I have tried to alter the model's orientation but with no result. I will try to separate this mesh in parts but it would mean restarting all from scratch since I found no good software to slice it precisely.
I am quite sure that the main problem lies in the fact the Ender 3 pro is an FDM printer an that the vertical lines of the arches are too thin. Since I tried to upload my model on 3D printing services to see if it could be printed in other materials and could be printed in finely detailed resin.
I would like at least to know if I am right in my problem spotting or if there could be any solution to the present problem so that not to go wrong if I will redesign this part.
If the pillars of the arcanes are at least the width of the nozzle of your printer (typically 0.4 mm) it should be printed. You could buy, mount and slice for a smaller diameter nozzle, e.g. 0.2 mm.
You can slice for 0.2 mm line width (just for outer walls) even with an 0.4 mm nozzle.
You can, but that does not make sense to print it. Your method will show the pillars if they are smaller than 0.4 mm though :-)
the problem is partly that the top of the arcs has not enough material above.
There's a setting in Cura to Print Thin Walls. It's turned off by default, and IIRC correctly there's a good reason it's off by default. But for this item, you should turn it on.
Update
Looking again, I see this is vertical, so I'm not sure how well this setting will help. Even if it does create the gcode to include the walls, this would be a tough print. If possible, you may want to rotate this 90° for printing, though I also see the gap on the right that would become a long bridge.
Why there is no support on the top is, that the top of the model, over the gothic arch, has not enough thickness to have any layer laid down there. Because it is too thin, it gets omitted. However, since the area that needs support is only very very small, this area technically doesn't need support and could be printed with bridging alone. Yet, you need to add at least 1 layer thickness to the height of the model by extruding the top surface in blender to make this area printable.
Another way is to knock down the layer height.
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13406 | Print failing at random, resulting in a "hairy" mess
TL;DR;
My initial answer fixed the problem for a while, but it still persists occurring... (see update 2 below)
Original question body:
Print fails at random resulting in a hairy mess although I:
cleaned bed,
added glue,
leveled bed,
tweaked temperatures and cooling,
cleaned nozzle,
tightened wheels, checked the axes,
tried to print temperature tower.
What else to do ?
First off, the equipment I use:
Printer: Artillery Sidewinder X1
Slicer: Cura
Filament: PLA
At first the prints came out as expected.
There is some bending at the bottom, that was later resolved by adding a brim. The object above and the ones later were printed with roughly the same settings:
Layer height: 0.28 mm
Wall line Count 3
Top/Bottom Layers 3
Infill 40% cubic
Printing temp. 205 °C
Bed temp. 60 °C
Print Speed 40 mm/s
Retraction on
100 % Fan speed
added Brim (after the first)
Yesterday that same part failed after 4 hours. I had to stop the print because the printer was making "a hairy mess" around the object.
As you can see there was some under extrusion earlier in the print which I didn't notice at first.
I thought the part came loose since it had little to none adhesion to the bed and after cleaning the bed properly and using some glue I started the print again. The result was the same, this time the print failed a bit earlier.
(The small part was printed on top of the loose mess before it failed completly)
This time the bottom was quite loose again. After that I decided to print some smaller parts and do some troubleshooting first. I noticed some weird looking "curly" lines right away and stopped the print. It looked like "under extrusion" and a "not properly leveled bed". (Notice that didn't happen in the prints before). So, after leveling the bed and printing the small part again the part got printed well until the top 3 layers which looked under extruded again and I could see the infill pattern through them.
I added 5 °C to the printing temperature and (the smaller parts had 30 % infill) upped the infill to 40 %. That didnt resolve the issue completly but the print looked well enough and I had another go at a slightly bigger print.
This time not quite as tall at the ones before and it failed again. The first hour or so everything looked fine, but the printer was getting quite noisy, every retraction was a very loud clicking sound the printer itself was shaking quite a bit during movement and the print failed again. This time the object was very firmly on the bed and I had to use some force to get it off.
The noise and shaking made me check the axis and tightened the wheels a little bit and after that I cleaned the nozzle with a "cold pull". The last thing I did was printing a temperature tower which failed in the same way and looks quite bad overall.
So my question is: Where do I go from here? I'm quite new to 3D printing, there still seems to be some under extrusion going on, what are my next steps ?
Please note that it seems that the filament curls up at the tip of the nozzle randomly, resulting in a few lines not getting placed properly on the already printed parts. Eventuelly the print then fails. When I push filament throught it curls up and the stream is relatively thin. Not always though, most of the time it looks fine maybe a bit thin.
Can that be a clogged nozzle if X layers get printed ok, then for 5 seconds it messes up and then prints okay again?
[Update]
After changing the nozzle the filament stopped curling up and the lines look much, much better. But the problem persists. I started 2 prints, both failed a couple of minutes in. The second one on the first layer. It seems that the nozzle picked the just printed lines up.
[UPDATE 2]
Back to square 1. It seems that I fixed a problem that I created while trying to fix the original problem.
After 4 successful prints and ~20 hours of printing the last print failed in the exact same way as shown in the pictures above. The filament is curling up at the nozzle again. The heatblock is not leaking.
new heatblock
new heatbreak
new nozzle
new tubing between nozzle and idler
old filament
old print profile, settings
I guess the nozzle is clogged ?! Can that be after such short printing times ? I dont want to clean everything for 2 hours after every print. Or worse change everything out after 15 hours or so.
To me it looks if you have several issues, one being not using support for the top flat surface (I cannot see the object you are trying to print, but this might be a bridging or lack of support issue). This is apart from the under extrusion issue.
The gap at the top is 20 mm wides and 100 mm high and did print well in the 3 prints before. Could the poor overhang quality at the top of the drill holes and the overall bad print of the temp tower be a result of under extrusion as well ? I did fiddle with the screw that regulates the pressure of the filament erntering the extruder (don't know how it's called) after reading several times that it should be loosened if you see heavy "bite marks" on the filament - which i did. I think that was before the print quality got worse. Will do some more thests tonight.
have you cleaned your nozzle lately?
I did a cold pull. When i have time after work i will check the nozzle again and try another print - Although the printer is just 2 weeks old and i printed 500 g - tops - of new PLA with it. Seems weird to me that the nozzle is clogged up that fast
In your second picture(only the second picture), it seems the layer had shifted all of a sudden. This happens when it lost power to the hardware but the mainboard has power the whole time. Means mainboard still got the power to run the program and give Gcode instructions. But no power to other components for a brief moment. Can you tell what exactly happens when shifting the layer..?
clogging can appear if you print too hot from cooking the filament, it can be contaminated filament coming in - dust clinging to the filament can be a PITA, which is why I store my filament in a dry box even if PLA doesn't actually need it in my workshop - to keep the dust off. It could also be a nozzle damaged during homing. Carefully observe your homing procedure that the nozzle never makes contact during it to avoid the later.
To help in troubleshooting it would REALLY help to know your printer though: please tell us the model and show a photo of the extrusion mechanism, because I suspect the culprit here. Your recent rebuild hopefully made sure that all parts are in working order.
As mentioned at the top of the question I am using the Artillery Sidewinder X1. I cant show an image atm, i am currrently at work
How much is the retraction (in mm)? The Cura default is 6.5 mm which is way too long for a direct extruder.
If i remember correctly it was originally 2.0 mm but i reduced it down to 1.6 mm for the last 5+ prints
I'm not sure if this is relevant, but 100% fan seems unnecessary on PLA, especially below 220°C. Is the driving gear clean?
After I finally had the time to disassemble the extruder and I found a possible culprit - which did solve the issue for some time.
As you can see on the pictures the heater block leaked and this lead to some filament dripping off of the side and onto the print. The nozzle then eventually caught these drips and this caused the mess.
Here are some tipps for beginners like me:
How to disassemble the extruder on the Sidewinder X1
Be carefull when trying to screw the nozzle out. You will most likely need some heat to soften up / melt the filament. I was not carefull and broke the thread. I then had to replace the whole heatblock.
Examine the tubing that leads the filament through the heatbreak and to the thread of the nozzle mine was a little bit deformed and didn't seem to be cut off straight to begin with.It has to be as flat as possible against the nozzle thread!
This was most likely the problem, Over time and after several melting ,hardening and melting procedures some filament creeped between the threads and the heatblock started to leak .. first slowly then worse and worse.
Hope that helps anyone. My prints come out great again. Plus I now know a lot more about my printer .
the original problem reappeared, see my update 2 of my question
[UPDATE]
Just to close this off: I can only guess what the original problem was but since I had this issue some times now I am quite certain, that it has to be bad filament (I am using really cheap one) and a relatively dusty environment, mixed with overreacting when trying to solve this issue. I got some needles with which I - fairly regularly - unclog / clean the nozzle especially after longer times without use.
Turned out this didnt solve the issue
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13702 | How to resume an unfinished project?
I was printing a lid for a box in my Ender 3 pro printer. But I don't know why it stopped printing and moved aside when it does in finished printings. This happened at midnight and I didn't see it until I woke up. In the hope for a resume I didn't remove the finished part from the printer bed. So now how can I resume this printing from where it left. The total width of the lid was 3 mm and it printed 2.4 mm now only 0.6 mm part left to print.
2 questions: did you power down the printer since finding it and what does the screen on the printer show?
First I didn't turn it off and tried to find the resume option in the menu but I couldn't find that and that may mean it showed as if completed but I don't remember the screen now. I was a little sleepy then after not finding the resume I turned it off
if there was a power out, you just need to press the wheel once to get resume... but shutting the machine off prevents any resume.
0.6 mm is not easy to spot: maybe the filament got jammed and the print finished, just the last 0.6 mm were printed out of air?
Provided that the print hasn't come loose from the bed and you know the layer height or layer number (you could count the amount of layers or measure the height of the print using a caliper), you can edit the original G-code file to print the remainder of the print. The following hints should be taken into account:
Don't use G28 or G29 instead use G28 X Y (please note that using G28 or G28 Z to home Z as well, may not work if the print is blocking the homing of Z, e.g. when homing in the center of the build plate)
Manually position the printhead at the correct Z height (place the cold nozzle on top of your failed print when the steppers are not powered, you could leave a paper thickness of a gap in between the nozzle and the print) and instruct the printer to use that height for reference: e.g. when the print stopped at layer 12 with a 0.2 mm layer height (2.4 mm height or use the measured height with a caliper) define G92 Z2.4
Make sure the hotend is primed before resuming printing
Cut all the G-code present in the file prior to the layer you want to start printing (e.g. search for G1 Z2.2), but do add bed and hotend heating, e.g. respectively M190 S60 and M109 S200
What you can also do is:
Reprint the whole print
Re-slice the print where you have sunk the print 2.4 mm into the bed in the slicer just printing the top face which you glue on later (this works only if the print is exactly at the same position as the initial slice, preferable the project was saved in the slicer or the default position after inserting the print object is used, note that this is difficult to reproduce when multiple objects were place on the bed, it would be better to edit the existing G-code instead!).
Note that you will always see a difference in appearance compared to an object printed in one session, you will see an interface line between the first and the second part.
Thank you very much for all information. A last question, I use Cura for slicing. How can I only choose the top part in an object ( which is the part left after that 2.4 mm) and print only that?
@asduskun If you drop the STL through the build plate in Cura (you might need to disable snap to build plate option) until the 0.6 mm is left above the build plate. If you slice it, the part under the build plate is omitted upon slicing.
That's pretty much the only way, but acknowledge that the new print might have adhesion problems to the old.
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13648 | How do I compress 3D files
I'm trying to compress different 3D files, but find it difficult to find the right software to compress the file.
What are the most suitable 3D file compressors to compress 3D files like STL, OBJ and STEP?
I have tried Draco, and mac zip compressor.
These are all binary formats, I believe, which generally don't compress well.
Technically STL can be either ASCII or binary. Although the latter is a LOT more common. But even the binary STLs compress pretty well actually.
3D files differ greatly in size and what they contain:
STL
STL Stereolithography files were invented by 3D Systems to store surfaces. Originally it used ASCII text to store information by naming triplets of vertex positions for each triangle (facet). Since that got too large, newer STL are Binary, which is quite smaller.
Many programs can export them, their size is dependant on the number of surfaces. You can reduce the size of an STL by lowering the number of surfaces at the cost of detail.
OBJ
OBJ was invented by Wavefront as a means of storing 3D information. It stores the data as plain text by storing vertices, to which they connect and what texture is on surfaces spun up by the vertices.
In comparison to STL, they can be bigger if they include surface information. Programs that can't do STL usually support OBJ. Slicers take either. You can reduce the size of the file by reducing complexity.
STEP
STEP files don't save 3D items per se, they store instructions for CAD programs to generate a 3D item. This makes them extremely information-dense and can create highly complex items with a somewhat minimum of file size. They also allow us to easily modify the file.
However, STEP files can't be sliced directly and need to be opened by a CAD program.
Comparison
This is a simple object generated by a mere extrusion, rounding corners, extruding again and a sweep, then copying the item and moving it into position.
But how does that compare as STL and OBJ? Well, the results of this item are rather small in either case, but you get a rough gist of their general comparability.
The STL is 74.3 kB, STEP is 90 kB, OBJ is 95.4 kB.
However, in a maximum compressed .zip archive, things change a lot:
STEP shrinks by 86 % to 13 kB
OBJ by 84 % to 16 kB
STL by a mere 73 % to 21 kB.
Conclusion
STEP is the best to give out in a zip archive if you want others to edit it. OBJ is a tad smaller in a zip archive than STL, but also can contain additional data.
If a general-purpose compression tool using a good compression algorithm, such as 7zip or gzip (for linux and command line enthusiasts) is not providing good compression it is not likely that your files can be compressed very much.
This applies to a wide variety of binary files beyond just 3D print files. There is always a fundamental limit on compression (since it works by finding patterns and removing redundancy in files), and well-designed binary file formats generally can't be compressed very far.
You may however have some luck with changing the settings on your CAD tool to output less detailed files (though you this is obviously a tradeoff.)
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13585 | New glass bed, should I glue it?
I have an Ender 3, I got a new glass bed, the bed comes with glue on the back.
Should I stick the glass bed to the aluminium base? or just use it with the clips?
I saw other people just use the clips, but my glass seems to have a sticky back...
There are pro and cons for leaving the sticky protection baking paper on the slate of glass:
pros (for not glueing it):
Can be removed more easily in the future (the collant is not easy to remove, requires a solvent and elbow grease)
Can remove the slate of glass to put it in the refrigerator to loosen stuck prints
cons:
Need for binder clips that may cause nozzle collision and decreases bed size (unless you use kapton tape to fix the bed)
Backing paper adds another layer of insulation (unless you remove it and all the goo)
Re: layer of insulation? Couldn't you fix without permanently gluing the bed & ruining it, by removing the paper then using mineral spirits/goo-gone/whatever to get rid of the adhesive and get a clean surface?
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE Updated to reflect removal of glue and backing paper, good suggestion. Didn't think of that option!
Once a such big area is glued, removal is extremely difficult/near impossible without warping the aluminium or breaking the class. I would not use glue at all.
I have a glass bed (did not come with adhesive) and instead of clips, I use Kapton (or equivalent) heat proof tape around the edges.
@DoxyLover One of my printers I do the same! The kapton tape also works fine preventing the bed to slip.
There are other types of clips that can be used to mount glass without creating obstructions for the nozzle.
Use Clips on either the left or the right. The aluminum might not be flat. Using clips or the adhesive will cause the glass to warp, defeating the point of using the glass.
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