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thread-14919 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14919 | How can I test that my stepper motors for functionality and compliance? | 2020-12-01T21:34:17.260 | # Question
Title: How can I test that my stepper motors for functionality and compliance?
I bought a set of 5 stepper motors from Trianglelab's official Aliexpress shop.
Only one of these motors was given any kind of protective bubble wrap for shipping. The contents of the package shifted in transit and several of the motors got banged up with two of them suffering visible damage to their wire insulation.
I contacted Trianglelabs and was told to fix it myself for \\$0.03 with a wire or to add some tape. This repair advice was accompanied with the weightiest assumptions of my personal expertise that I have ever received.
At this point I'm not planning to keep them if this is how the company does business; shaving pennies on shipping and telling the buyer to fix it themselves.
But all of this brought up an interesting question. How can I reliably test my stepper motors for basic functionality and measured compliance with the rated specifications?
# Answer
> 2 votes
For the AliExpress part, open a dispute and attach pictures to the dispute and ask for a partial, reasonable discount. It always worked for me.
As for how to test the motors themselves, it depends on what other hardware you have.
For example, you could wire the motors to your printer board, and try to issue a G6 command to that motor.
If you find issues while testing the motors, that could be evidence for an even bigger discount, or even full refund if the motor doesn't work.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I would be far more worried about damage to the wire insulation (i.e. are they nicked/cut at all or just scuffed up?) as that could potentially lead to a short circuit situation against your frame etc. Assuming no serious cable damage, motors can take a fair amount of mechanical abuse so I'd just put them through their paces with short (a few seconds) forward/backward movements at various speeds listening for any scraping/grinding/other unusual noises indicating any interior damage. Assuming no issues found, then you could run them for a more extended period of time (5-10 minutes or so periodically changing direction/speed) and if that didn't reveal anything, I wouldn't worry about it. If it helps, you're probably going to inadvertently abuse them electrically/thermally far more than the shipment did over their service life.
Unfortunately, when shipping things overseas sometimes the packaging is insufficient (somewhat surprising for Trianglelab as that's one area I generally see people give them high marks for) and bad things can happen during shipment. I've received all sorts of mangled packages and, aside from the irritation of knowing it was probably avoidable but for the bad packaging, I usually try to be reasonable when tallying up any damage when asking for a refund (partial or otherwise). If you really feel like a seller fell short, then your best recourse is generally to ding them on their rating if it's really warranted. Yes, it's irritating, but it will happen from time to time.
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Tags: stepper-driver, stepper, repair, part-testing
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thread-14830 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14830 | Determining exposure time for resin | 2020-11-18T15:14:59.640 | # Question
Title: Determining exposure time for resin
When a resin comes without a proper data sheet (!), or more likely when the timing for first layer and default layer exposure do not match your LED resin printer, how do you go about determining ideal exposure times?
# Answer
> 3 votes
**Short answer:** Use a calibration test.
**Long answer:** There are a bunch of calibration test files out there you can run. Ameralabs has a guide on how to read one of them and they have a link to download the STL at the bottom of the website. In short, the test file will print with a bunch of features that are hard for the printer to handle (thin posts, angles, small gaps, etc). You can try printing a test file like you would any other file while just guessing at the exposure time. But some printers have a setting just for this where you can run the printer once and print 8 copies of the same object each with a different exposure time. This is the best way to go if you can. either way, you will need to look at the prints when you are done and compare it to what it was supposed to look like. Pick the print that does the best in all types of features on the test.
here is a video showing how to do the test with multiple prints at once. Anycubic Photon S - Resin Exposure Test - R\_E\_R\_F with custom timing
running these calibration tests can be useful even when you have a data sheet for your printer, it can account for other variables such a temperature. I don't usually bother but if you want to spend the time to get the best print you can it's a good idea.
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Tags: resin
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thread-14952 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14952 | Gluing silicon heater to aluminium | 2020-12-06T13:32:58.037 | # Question
Title: Gluing silicon heater to aluminium
I am making a bed for my 3D printer. I have bought a silicon heater (31x31 cm) and I want to glue it to my custom aluminum bed. The tape that it had from factory was bad, so I removed it. I want to glue it to the aluminum and I don't know what type of adhesive to use, I was thinking gasket glue with silicon, but I think that it will have bad thermal conductivity. I found this product, a silicon based, heat transferring paste, but I think that it will not stick good. What is a good adhesive for this purpose?
# Answer
> 0 votes
Heat Transfer PAste will not work as a gluing agent. What you need is a high-temperature glue that bonds Aluminium and a silicone rubber. The benchmark temperature that the glue needs to withstand is about 100 °C or approximately 200 °F.
McMaster-Carr allowed me to search for glue-properties and suggests among others contact adhesives, which are cans or tubes with a very viscous glue. You let that pre-cure on the items and then push the two together, resulting in very strong bonds. One of the items they suggest is 3M 2262 for which McMaster-Carr lists 230 °F as the max temperature, so just in the *safe* range. However, a 32 oz. can for almost 100 $ is surely overkill, the 3M manufacturer catalog lists only 1 qt and 5 gal as the available packaging sizes, so, unless you build printers for a living or know someone who uses this industrially, this is not an option.
The same catalog also lists the "3M™ 200MP& 300LSE" series with temperatures of 148 °C (300 °F) to 204 °C (400 °F). That is enough to print anything on. And it's the same glue that' used on my Build-Tak replacement surfaces to stick them to the Aluminium bed, so it could be suitable for gluing the heater to the bed on the other side too. However, I wish you good luck to find a reseller that sells you a fitting amount. Industrial packaging is available, but you'll need to find a reseller that offers a somewhat fitting size for you - I have seen Amazon listings for both types in sizes that have only small waste for most common heaters.
---
I am not affiliated with 3M or McMaster-Carr, but I have very good experience with 300LSE.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I suggest not gluing it. Starting from the top, make a sandwich this way:
Aluminium with holes for bolts - Silicone heater - Thin cork (the one from IKEA, 2 mm thick for office desks is fine) - Thin plywood with holes for bolts (or other stiff material holding at least 60°C)
This way you use the aluminium and the plywood to keep the silicone heater well in contact with the aluminium, and the cork insulates so that less heat is lost on the bottom side.
Also, cork is fire-retardant.
If the heater fails replacing it is simple.
Also, you can and should cut away from the cork some space for a thermal non resettable fuse at 180°C to cut power if the heater overheats.
In my case I should have used one more bolt, as you can see in the photo.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, heated-bed
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thread-14849 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14849 | Delamination in resin prints | 2020-11-20T19:02:23.897 | # Question
Title: Delamination in resin prints
I have observed some occasional delamination in horizontal layers of my resin prints — see two examples:
What is the cause, and how can this be minimized?
# Answer
With the information provided my thought is that your layers are underexposed for their thickness. Each layer is just barely bonding to the layer above it. After being pulled on by layers below eventually one of the layers fails. This is especially likely to happen on a thin part of the print any may need more support if it is followed by wider layers. But I would suggest trying to increase your exposure time first.
option two: it could be your FEP if that has seen too much use it may be time to replace it.
calibrating a resin 3D printer
> 2 votes
# Answer
Besides the options of underexposure or bad FEP film, there's also the option of the print being in a bad orientation for printing. Often, the quality gets better if you tilt the model some degrees. You do have to clean up some places, but the stresses from pulling free of the FEP get distributed more evenly and are lower, resulting in generally better prints.
Other factors that can impact the print quality is the resin's viscosity: the more viscous, the more likely resin can't flow in enough. Resin's viscosity is antiproportional to the room temperature - the hotter the room, the less viscous the resin.
> 1 votes
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Tags: resin, delamination
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thread-14928 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14928 | Clear coating resin 3D prints | 2020-12-03T04:30:44.787 | # Question
Title: Clear coating resin 3D prints
I'm looking to put a UV-blocking clear coating on some of my resin 3D prints.
I've tried krylon UV-Resistant Clear Coating but it seemed to react with my print making it softer and easy to break. I'm trying to coat a thin Lithophane so I would rather not make it any softer.
Are there any better options for a UV-blocking clear coat for resin 3D prints?
Printer used: AnyCube Photon (dlp)
Resin used for Print: ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Rapid Resin
Lithophane maker: lithophanemaker
# Answer
> 1 votes
I'd go for the easy option of using a composite setup: Acrylic lacquers themselves are very low reactive and can serve as a foundation before the UV clear coating is applied. The acrylic lacquer itself doesn't change coloration if exposed to sunlight, but the light can still pass and discolor the lithophane.
Your Krylon clearcoat technically *is* an acrylic paint, but to be used from a rattlecan, other chemicals are added - a whole lot as the MSDS tells us. The list of chemicals *besides* the paint in that can are *Acetone,* n-Butyl Acetate, Propane, Butane, Xylene, Ethyl 3-Ethoxypropionate, *Cyclohexane, Ethylbenzene*, Bis(pentamethyl-4-piperidyl)sebacate. Three simple chemicals I put in italics - they are very good solvents that easily react with the resin print. Propane and Butane create the pressure in the rattle can, the other four chemicals make up the actual lacquer. I have observed the mix of Acetone, Cyclohexane, and Ethylbentene (with possibly others) softening PLA, so it is totally possible that they react unfavorably with your resin print. As a result, I suggest using a brush or roller to apply acrylic paint from a can (not spraycan!)
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Tags: post-processing, resin, uv-printer
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thread-14953 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14953 | How should you run PTFE (Teflon) Tubes? | 2020-12-06T15:44:03.093 | # Question
Title: How should you run PTFE (Teflon) Tubes?
I bought a modern machine, and it comes with PTFE tubes. I need to relocate the spool, so I bought some longer PTFE tubes. I bent the tub by hand, and my first test run actually had too much friction, so the extruder was unable to pull the filament through the tube. I cut it a few inches and it seems to be fine.
What are the rules of thumb that one should use when redesigning a filament path though a PTFE tube? For example, these are some things I can think of based on how I would teach someone about running wires in a high- or low- voltage commercial application (with or without conduit):
* Bend radius.
* Number of bends.
* Length of tube.
* Diameter of tube relevant to diameter of filament (link).
* Expected friction coefficient (teflon appears to be slick, but will still have some friction)
* How to secure the slippery tube (clips, zip ties, glue, etc.).
* How much compression is too much for the tube (ie zip ties)?
# Answer
> 2 votes
## Constriction
PTFE-Tubes usually have enough stiffness to not require additional support and constriction from anything but the two end fittings and the stiffness the filament in them provides. In fact, they make great guides for cable management to the heater block! You might want to add some constricting clamps on very long tubes. To do so, zip ties and cable guide clamps are common. Don't make them too tight as they shall not cut into the tube!
You also shouldn't constrict them too tight: A bend diameter of about 12 cm is where I would pull the line for 1.75 mm PLA: anything lower and you might get problems. For 2.85 or 3 mm filament, you should use a somewhat larger diameter - I have seen good flow with about 20 cm bends. A very simple test can be done: Fix one end, load filament, pull at the other end while holding the second fixture close to the planned position. If you have an easy way, you're good.
## Length
Length is tricky: you should not be too long, as that could add too much friction, but on a direct drive or when you pull filament from a dry box, there's little to no length limit on the tube through which you pull, there's only a maximum length you can push through effectively.
## Diameter
The diameter of a tube on the **pushing** end of the extruder motor should be somewhat snug: 1.9 and 2 mm inner diameter are common for 1.75 mm filament, and 2.85 mm does work well in a 3 mm tube. 3 mm filament needs about 3.25 mm inner diameter. As a rule of thumb: add 0.15 to 0.25 mm to the diameter of the filament and get the closest available diameter to that.
On the **pulling** end of the extruder, a larger size can be used. Though don't go too large, like 10 mm ID, as at some point, as you might experience backlash and rattling in the tube, resulting in noise, and for very hygroscopic filaments (PVA or Nylon), the extra air in such a large tube could reduce the effect of printing from a dry box:
* 3.25 mm works well for both 2.85 and 3 mm and might still work for 1.75 mm filament on the intake side (Thank you for the insight FarO!)
* a 4 mm ID on the intake-side can still work for 1.75 mm and mitigate extrusion problems on a Bowden-extruder (thanks @0scar)
In either case, you have to keep in mind the bending radii - don't overconstrain! Also, remember that you need to have a fitting coupling on the delivering and the receiving end.
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Tags: desktop-printer, ptfe-tube
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thread-14596 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14596 | Hotend not heating | 2020-10-15T13:41:46.213 | # Question
Title: Hotend not heating
I've a problem with my BQ i3 Hephestos.
I've noticed that in the last few prints that I've experienced some temperature drops every now and then. Yesterday, after 3 of a 4 hours long print, the hotend completely cooled down (I have Octoprint and from the temperature graph it was visible the exponential decrease to 25 °C). Apart from realizing that, evidently, I have not any cold extrusion prevention set up on my Marlin firmware (I'll surely fix that asap), yesterday I've shut everything down with the idea to try again today. This morning, though, I could not start my print because the heater didn't even warm up.
After disassembling the hotend I've tried the following things:
* I've tested the thermocouple putting it near the heated bed and it measures the correct value
* with a tester I've measured the voltage that goes into the resistance ($\approx 12\ V$)
* I've measured the resistance with the tester ($\approx 3\ \Omega$)
I've also noticed that while $12\ V$ is the voltage that the printer sends to the resistance, measured when the resistance is not attached to it, if I repeat the measurement with the resistance attached to the printer I get a few $mV$. I really don't know whether it is the expected behavior or not.
---
Further inspection...
Trying to inspect the cables better I've noticed a black spot on the connector of my Ramps 1.4 board (as you can see in the attached image).
At this point I think I may have damaged something with too much current/too much heat. Too much current it seems strange to me because I have never changed anything in that sense, It is exactly the same as when I have bought the printer. It may be something related to the heat as the problem firstly occurred only on long prints (some hours).
I don't know if this clarify something to you, but to me it says almost nothing...
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**UPDATE**
I've tried to attach the heater again to its original place and now it seems to work (in the sense that it gets hot). I've initially set the temperature to 60 °C, and it had no problem reaching and keeping it. Then I've tried to raise it to 180 °C but I had to shut down the heater after a few seconds because the cables became very hot and *tender* and it smelled of burnt
# Answer
> 1 votes
In the end it turned to be that the RAMPS board was ruined.
I bought a new RAMPS board and it worked immediately.
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Tags: extruder, electronics, bq-hephestos
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thread-14963 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14963 | Printing files over USB drive (Ender 3 Pro) | 2020-12-07T13:02:45.613 | # Question
Title: Printing files over USB drive (Ender 3 Pro)
Is this possible? I know that the controller board of the printer is normally controlled (when using USB) by an active computer sending data, but I was wondering if it could be reversed so that the board retrieves files from a USB flash drive? My SD card keeps failing and is overall frustrating to work with, so USB would be a nice option.
# Answer
Unfortunately, no.
There are two types of USB devices: host, such as a PC, and device, such as a thumb drive. (Actually, there is a third type, on-the-go, which can act as either.)
The Ender 3 mainboard is a USB device which means that it can only connect to a USB host. You cannot directly connect two USB devices, such as the Ender 3 and a thumb drive) and have them work.
One option would be to set up OctoPrint software on a Raspberry PI single-board computer and connect that by USB to the printer.
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, usb
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thread-6608 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6608 | DIY tensile strength testing | 2018-08-08T22:35:58.943 | # Question
Title: DIY tensile strength testing
I want to tackle an experiment with the following goal:
> Determine the correlations between printing parameters (temperatures, speeds, humidity, perimeters, infill, etc.) and tensile strength using a specific 3D printer, test specimen, and filament brand/model.
This goal calls for two parts then: a standardized **test procedure** and **test specimen**. For the test procedure, I've been asking myself:
> What portable, measurable and roughly consistent tensile strength test does not require building a complicated machine, can be performed with ready-made tools or machines available at a large hardware store, and can be set up within 5 minutes?
I am thinking here about a procedure that lies somewhere between this hanging scale test and ISO 527. Definitely not using bare hands or pliers. Once the procedure is defined, this begs the question:
> Is the ISO 3167 multipurpose test specimen an appropriate specimen for the test procedure outlined above or are there other specimens that are more suitable?
I was thinking that, since the usual filaments have an ultimate strength of around 40-60 MPa, perhaps the "recoil" would be too much and one needs to use a smaller, weaker specimen.
# Answer
For these kind of tests you could rely on the ASTM standards. They define test procedures and test specimen sizes for different types of tests. Or you can derive a specimen yourself based on these standards (e.g. for my bachelor's degree I used an alternative notch impact specimen as I was bound to the amount of available material of the turbine rotor blade the specimens were taken from). Considering the material, you could device up a contraption made from extrusion profiles or something.
Please do note that to get reasonable results, you would have to do a lot of tests as the spread in results is probably even more than in metals.
The company I work for does this, these material qualification programmes run for long times (years, as we also do fatigue and creep testing), and a lot of samples are tested to qualify for use in Aerospace applications.
> 5 votes
# Answer
A reliable and repeatable test can be performed by printing cylinders, tapping them to M4 thread and then testing the resulting bolts.
My Tech Fun
does something like that, but he prints the thread directly, which may be less repeatable.
Then you can perform pull and bend tests on the samples using simple attachments available at the hardware store.
> 0 votes
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Tags: print-strength
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thread-14979 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14979 | Print quality: possible Z wobble | 2020-12-08T10:07:44.787 | # Question
Title: Print quality: possible Z wobble
The printer I am using is an Artillery Sidewinder X1. In the photos attached you can see that I am having a lot of inconsistency between layers. The problem has never gone away and I always thought it was Z wobble but now I'm not so sure it is because we have tightened everything up, making sure everything is stable and tight. Is this Z wobble or is it something else. Could it be the filament? Does it have anything to do with the slicer settings?
# Answer
No, this is not Z-wobble, Z-wobble is usually characterized by a repetitive distortion, from the supplied images this repetitive pattern is not observed. A Z-wobble pattern is typically caused by the lead screws, or the Z drive where carriage follows the X/Y motion of the lead screw nut.
A typical image of Z-wobble on a Benchy would look like:
Your print doesn't look that bad for a low-end 3D printer.
> 2 votes
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Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting, z-axis, artillery-sidewinder-x1
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thread-14965 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14965 | How to set multiple draft shields in Prusaslicer? | 2020-12-07T14:44:50.993 | # Question
Title: How to set multiple draft shields in Prusaslicer?
Draft shields helped me a lot to get some usable prints out of ABS on a non-enclosed printer with a small printing bed, but I noticed that the shield cracks (it is affected by the issue that would otherwise affect the print itself), resulting in cold air leaking in and ruining the print to some degree.
See image for an example of a ruined shield which results in a chimney effect and cold air getting near the print.
How can I set multiple shields to enhance the protection? just a second one would be enough.
If the print is rectangular it's easy, I just need to add an empty box around my print, but when the models are more complex I would like to have shields which follow the shape more closely.
I'm using Prusaslicer but a preprocess step in other free software would be acceptable.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You could CAD a 1 layer thick cylinder, and add it to your print and place it around your object. You can create any number of cylindrical shells that way...
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Tags: abs, heat-management, warping, nylon, delamination
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thread-14986 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14986 | Ender 3, why only 3 limit switches? | 2020-12-08T22:41:48.920 | # Question
Title: Ender 3, why only 3 limit switches?
Why does the Ender 3 only have 3 limit switches instead of 6?
How does it handle crashes on other sides? Is it worth adding them with a new mainboard?
# Answer
You only need 3 switches to determine/fix the position of the carriage (carrying the hotend) with respect to the printer frame (for X, Y and Z i.e. 3 dimensions). Firmware setup, by defining the offset and the traveling distance on each axis, determines the minimum and maximum displacement. By default the printer carriage will not go outside the boundaries and will not damage anything. That is sufficient for most printers, but, for those printers that have weak steppers and printers that produce prints that suffer from layer shifting, the coordinate system might be messed up, and the carriage may travel outside the initial boundaries, this can damage your printer, using maximum endstops will prevent the printer from destroying itself.
Why use only 3 switches? The reason for this could also be related to costs, you need half the amount of switches, cables and a less extended printer controller board.
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*I've had one printer setup with max limit switches, but they never got triggered (unless self triggered for testing), never had a layer shifting either.*
> 2 votes
# Answer
Because it knows the side of the build volume, all it needs to know is one physical location to home from. So knowing {x,y,z} (0,0,0), and knowing x(max) = 230, y(max) = 230, z(max) = 250, and knowing 1 step (x) = 0.001 mm, it can know when to stop before hitting the other side.
Because it knows where 0 is, and because it knows the maximum value, it knows where the other limit is through math.
2-sided limit switches are used on industrial equipment that have open-loop control mechanisms, like a lathe with a DRO, the DRO won't stop the lathe, so you need to hook up a limit switch on the other side to stop the lead screw... You could also have a maximum travel limit switch on a CNC router where if you send the spindle too far, you might break the equipment, or cause injury.
I hope this answered your question, and was also informative on how limit switches are used elsewhere... It's not perfect or exact, but I think it should give you a broad idea...
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, endstop
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thread-14977 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14977 | Can I sell a handpainted large scale 3D model of a copyrighted 2D concept art? | 2020-12-08T08:44:34.947 | # Question
Title: Can I sell a handpainted large scale 3D model of a copyrighted 2D concept art?
The art in question is https://www.instagram.com/p/CIfsO2ZD7Rj/ . I Think the concept artist, Jean Giraud, is dead.
# Answer
While better fitted to our friends at law.SE, the general gist is: **No.**
Art is protected by copyright, and any adaption (*derivative work*) requires the OK from the right holders *per se*. Only 70-75 years after the death of the author (or publication for company works), a work enters the *public domain* and the copyright expires.
There are some exceptions (*fair use/fair dealing/*...), but *media transformation* is not one of them.
Giraud died in 2012, his estate or heirs - or whoever he/they sold the commercial rights to - own the right to ok derivative Works till around 2087.
> 3 votes
# Answer
This is something that might have a precedent, where the line is blurry, someone might have already tried, and in that case the judge's decision in that court case is the official interpretation of the law towards that specific scenario.
There might also be definitive laws regarding "derived works"...
Like the others, I would ask the Law SE for help.
> 0 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, legal, 2d
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thread-14969 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14969 | Can a dual extruder printer print with multiple filament types? | 2020-12-07T16:30:29.070 | # Question
Title: Can a dual extruder printer print with multiple filament types?
I was looking at purchasing the Creality CR-X or another similar dual extruder (note, NOT dual nozzle) printer. I know it was designed to print two colors of the same filament, but is it able to print two different filaments?
I would be printing HIPS with ABS or PVA with PLA, so the two filaments would have very similar characteristics. It's ok if the printer doesn't know there's two different filaments, I can make it work by playing with the slicing settings.
# Answer
> 2 votes
# Yes and No
**Yes, if you have two full hotends,** you can easily print with two filament types.
**Yes, if you have one hotend and both filaments melt at a very similar temperature or are the same polymer,** then you can use a Prusa MMU style or splicing machine.
**No, if you have only one hotend and the two materials are very dissimilar in their print temperatures** (PLA with 200 °C and ABS with 235 °C), then you can't use a MMU/splicing style printing. This does preclude PLA and PVA from the same nozzle: PVA needs about 230 °C according to my data.
# Answer
> 2 votes
What you want is a dual extruder, dual nozzle, dual hot-end printer, a printer with two entire print heads.
That model is mostly for color, like a black and white panda, or a green and rainbow lizzard, of the same material.
Your problem is going to be the mixing of both materials in the hot end.
If I were you, I would invest the extra cash into a dual print head printer, so you can print with water-soluble support material, and that soft of stuff, plus if you print black and white pandas, you're going to have pure black, and pure white, with no grey, marbled parts where the two filaments were mixing in the hot end.
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Tags: dual-nozzle
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thread-14976 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14976 | Fusion 360 Design Best Practices Question (Am I on the right track?) | 2020-12-08T08:12:08.440 | # Question
Title: Fusion 360 Design Best Practices Question (Am I on the right track?)
So I've designed a few components in Fusion 360, but I'm kinda new to CAD. I did the tutorials AutoDesk have on YouTube, modelled an Arduino enclosure, a shampoo bottle, a lamp shade, etc. but what I'm doing now isn't as straightforward...
Before I used to create solids, but what I'm doing right now is essentially a flimsy plastic part, just a sheet of plastic with a rim, and some other "rib" features, and doing solids you have to make a sketch, and every line has to be doubled because of the thickness of the material.
Today I'm trying surfaces after being clued by the "Thicken" command, I figured maybe that was more efficient, but I'm not sure if I'm on the right track.
When I work with solids, I end-up with the option to *join* whatever new feature to the main body, but with surfaces I end-up with a bunch of bodies that are essentially supposed to be one, and I don't know how to join them together after.
I guess they could be put together in a "component", but I think components are more like a nut is a solid, a bolt is a solid, and a component is a nut and a bolt, not a bolt head, and a threaded cylinder... So the way the software is made right now at this point, while it clued me to use surfaces, now it's cluing me that there's something I'm missing, or nor doing right...
There's no CAD Stack Exchange site, and I realize this might be a bit specific, but the part is to be 3D printed, I bought a new 3D printer not long ago for a project, but I need to get better at CAD before I can make it...
Attached is a screenshot of what I worked on, it's paths that I've extruded to create surfaces (tall edges), thickened those surfaces to create bodies, patched some surfaces to fill areas, thickened those as well (ended-up with stair-shaped corners that I fixed somehow), then I cut some bodies from the bodies below to end-up with that you see now...
I think I'm on the right path with surfaces, but I don't think my workflow is right, and I was wondering if anyone could help me...
Right now, there's supposed to be two screw wells in two corners of the circle, essentially wells with a hole in the bottom for a thumbtack to go through, and there's going to be a cap to cap it off, it's kind of the same process as what I've done so far, but like I said, I don't think I'm doing it right...
<sub>(source: 000webhostapp.com)</sub>
# Answer
Ok, let's go down the main two ways to a part, and in practice you usually use both to design for 3D printing. Only for machining, you try to keep to the cutting method only.
* Cutting Method
* Building Method
# Cutting Method
You start with a piece of "stock". A cube or cylinder created by extruding the simple shape. Now you go and create profiles that you either extrude into the part or rotate around the axis - your profile "cuts" the "stock". When doing this, you think of parts like a machinist: you remove the material as a mill or lathe would.
# Buildup Method
You start with the profile of the piece, then extrude it, then add the next detail and so on. I work a lot with that, and you can have a lot of sketches in the end:
> 1 votes
# Answer
After @Trish posted their answer, I went back to my design, and used substractive design, because I watch a lot of machining videos, and instead of the "thicken" feature that kinda did what I wanted, I used the "shell" command that did exactly what I wanted, see below.
> 0 votes
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Tags: cad, fusion360
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thread-14993 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14993 | Selective laser melting and building near the road (vibrations) | 2020-12-09T05:44:39.543 | # Question
Title: Selective laser melting and building near the road (vibrations)
Our company want to implement selective laser melting(metallic powders). But our building close to the road plus we have industrial machines near us, what vibration levels are dangerous in SLM printing? What numbers is admissible? Vibration are dangerous because of lasers? Or because layer of powder can be distracted during the build?
# Answer
# That depends...
Among the fact that can influence if vibrations could be the problem in this case, I see the following s is the most prominent:
* Powder grain diameter
* Powder composition
* Powder shape
* Aimed for resolution
The grain diameter and composition are the more influencing factors: fine powders of low-density metals will be much more affected by vibrations and almost behave like dust or fluid under resonating vibrations. On the other hand varicose powders of high-density metals will more easily settle down and have much higher thresholds for how much vibration affects them.
The shape mainly influences how particles coagulate: very coarse particles, think snowflakes, will interlock and bond to one another creating flakes of several powder particles. Vibration can influence the formation and compactness of such flakes and such influence the resolution.
If you want to print very coarse with rough, large powders, vibrational mitigation might be not needed. But should you want to print pretty much in aluminium dust... you need to take it into account.
# Vibration mitigation
If the Vibrations influence your prospect machine placement, you'll have to inquire about at your machine manufacturer, best with a seismometer measurement of the places where you want to build. By placing special fasteners and vibration dampeners (springs or rubber feet) in between the machine and the floor, anchoring it to a separate foundation that is not connected to the surrounding building, or even by having the machine *float*, vibrations can be mitigated.
It's often much easier to install larger vibration mitigation equipment on lower floors and mounting it directly to the foundation of a building (ground floor and basement) is often preferred.
In case of special projects, the local municipality might allow banning (heavy) road traffic or even pedestrians from areas that affect the manufacturing in such a way - the Cologne Opera is partially under a public space right next to the cathedral, and during events, pedestrians may not use a chunk of it. In my city, the use of one road with trucks is banned due to vibrations they can cause in a nearby old building.
> 3 votes
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Tags: print-quality, slm
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thread-14996 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14996 | Why is pressure advance usually implemented in firmware rather than in the slicer? | 2020-12-09T09:52:29.507 | # Question
Title: Why is pressure advance usually implemented in firmware rather than in the slicer?
Recently I started looking at pressure advance and how it works and I'm a bit confused about where it is usually implemented.
My idea of 3D printer was that its firmware is fairly dumb and only replays G-code, not knowing anything about the object being printed, material used, or even the printer itself.
But with pressure advance this whole thing changes and now the firmware needs to know the linear advance factor which combines information about the filament and filament path used. In addition, the E axis is no longer controlled directly by the G-code, but its motion is almost independently determined by the firmware.
Why is this? Is there a reason that slicer (or a post-processor) can't compute all this and directly store the needed extruder axis movements in the G-code? Does the printer have some additional information that the slicer is missing?
# Answer
> In addition the E axis is no longer controlled directly by the GCode, but it's motion is almost independently determined by the firmware.
This is the case even without linear advance. G-code does not directly control the movement of any of the axes. G-code only specifies the path the axes should travel, but not the acceleration and deceleration associated with following that path. If you are printing a cube, then the G-code might specify that the extruder has to extrude a square. It will specify that the 4 sides of the square should be printed, but it does not specify how the transition from one side to the next should be handled.
The printer cannot instantly transition from extruding one side of the square to extruding the next side, because the direction of the extruder cannot change instantaneously. It needs to smoothly decelerate and accelerate. This is handled by the firmware, which translates the straight line commands from G-code to smooth acceleration and deceleration of the extruder.
This is exactly where linear advance comes in. It is coupled to the acceleration and deceleration. There is no way to "implement" linear advance in G-code, because G-code does not even have any notion of acceleration and deceleration. The G-code (and slicer) has no idea how the firmware is handling the acceleration and deceleration, so therefore it is impossible for the slicer to know what linear advance is required to match.
Then you might ask: "why is acceleration and deceleration not implemented in G-code (rather than in firmware)?" This is simply a design choice. G-code is meant to be a very simple file format, and it simply allows you to specify straight line move commands. Representing smooth acceleration curves would either require breaking them down into many discrete, small steps, but this would greatly increase the file size. You could suggest a more complex G-code specification that would allow a more "compact" representation of acceleration and deceleration curves but then you're just shifting the computation back to the firmware (albeit with a more explicit specification in the G-code).
> 8 votes
# Answer
This is a really good question that sheds a lot of light on 3D printer software/firmware architecture, and Tom already said a lot of the things I wanted to say before getting a chance to write an answer. The basic problem is that, to do pressure advance accurately (and in a way that doesn't get it horribly wrong when inaccurate), you need to know the actual feedrate of the extruder at all times, and that's not available until applying the acceleration profile, which by convention happens in the printer firmware.
With that said, there were primitive and even somewhat advanced attempts to do pressure advance in the slicer. The first seems to have been "coasting", which, along with extra-priming after coast, is pretty much just "pressure advance, assuming a constant feedrate". It gets things horribly wrong if you mix different extruder feedrates (different print speeds or line widths, etc.) or if you have slow acceleration, but if your acceleration is so fast (relative to max speed) that it's approximately instantaneous, it might work okay.
Modern Cura also has Flow Rate Compensation, which is something like pressure advance. It's rate-sensitive, so in theory it can give accurate results with varying line width and print speed as long as acceleration is close enough to instantaneous. Since it appeared after Marlin added linear advance, I never bothered trying to play with it, so I can't speak to whether it actually works decently. There are still a lot of subtleties to when the advance is performed that it could get wrong, and I think you'd want to do some test cases just to read the gcode output and evaluate whether what it's doing is sufficiently close to reasonable.
If you wanted to do full pressure advance in the slicer, you'd need to let the slicer handle acceleration profile, breaking lines up into small segments each with nominal feedrate matching the rate they should end at, and sufficiently close to the rate they should start at, with the firmware acceleration limits set to accommodate the change. Then, knowing a very good approximation of the actual toolhead and thus extruder feedrate for each segment, you'd know the advance to apply, and could apply it as an additional subdivision at the end of the previous print move. And then in theory, it all works out. But this would make the gcode **a lot** larger/bulkier, and more demanding on the serial link speed and microcontroller's ability to keep up with parsing/planning. So it's almost surely a bad idea.
The Klipper firmware does this differently. It does the gcode parsing and planning (including pressure advance) in Python software (with some C for critical paths) running on a much more capable computer, and sends the precise generated stepper motor timings over the serial link to the microcontroller operating the printer hardware.
> 3 votes
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Tags: firmware, fdm, pressure-advance
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thread-14898 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14898 | I can't figure out how to name this problem or solve it | 2020-11-29T10:04:39.287 | # Question
Title: I can't figure out how to name this problem or solve it
(Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board and Touchscreen, BlTouch)
Hello everybody, I want to print something for my family but the hotend gets clogged every time in the same part of the print. I tried:
* Different Nozzles
* Different Filaments
* I cleaned every Part
* The E-Steps are set right
* The retraction Setting didn't make a difference
* The Extruder Position is perfect
* I tried different speeds
* Everything else you find on Google with a clogged hot end.
The most odd thing about this is that the problem occurs at the same place every time.
On Flat surfaces are some anomalies, that wasn't there when I had the normal clogged nozzle problems (from: retraction settings, dirty Printer, e-steps false). I think it has something to do with the anomalies.
Another thing I don't get behind are missing layers after the layer change, even when I don't use retraction at all. In The Picture from the side you see the Support with the Layer change problem. After around about Layer 40 there is one Layer missing and the next Layers are not connected anymore. From the top you see the Surface anomaly I don't know how to describe. It would be helpful to know what I did wrong. I am sure I did Everything against a clogged Nozzel but I can be Wrong so tips in this direction are Helpful too. I am quite new to 3D Printing(2 Months) I had the usual clogged Nozzel Problem Solved and It Worked Perfectly. I Tried to Fix It with the same Solutions and Nothing Helped, so I think it is a different problem. Sry for my bad English I am from Germany.
I have an Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board, Touchscreen and BlTouch which I use together with \[insert slicer here\]. I print in \[PLA/ABS/PETG/Whatever Material\] at \[Extruder temperature\] °C. The print bed is set to \[Bed Temperature\] °C. I use a print cooling fan at \[whatever\] %. The layer height I set to 0.\[x\] mm, the line width \[line width/extrusion width\] from the 0.\[x\] mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to \[x\] mm/s for walls and \[x\] mm/s for infill. My retraction is \[off / \[X\] mm at \[x\] mm/s\].
# Answer
# Conclusion
So I found my mistake: It was the E-Steps I did wrong it over extruded. The best E-Steps per mm are 92 for me. The mistake took place because I took my E-step number from a Video Tutorial about my dual extruder. I found the optimal number by testing out; the formula I got for the E-Steps was in the Video and I think I used it wrong, I'll watch the Video again and look at what I did wrong and I'll write a comment about it. I will test more today to get it perfect but @Trish was right.
Thank you to everybody for their Time.
# How the problem was diagnosed:
## Did I have a bad Temperature?
First, I tested all temperatures in the range of 190 to 210 °C, and the best looking is 200-205 °C. After that, I tried a different height for my print head which just resulted in the model not sticking to the bed. So I could rule out bad layer height.
This was made at 200 °C, The problematic areas are at the corners and on Flat Surfaces parallel to the heat bed:
## Is the Cura profile the culprit?
I made a new printer Profile to find out if I broke it in the settings. I got the same results.
So I tried every Setting in Cura that could have something to do with that, the only thing that helped a little was using 50% Top Surface Flow:
While testing, I saw that the corners are really bad. I think it's because of the print head acceleration. So, I went back and tuned more...
## E-Step Configuration Issue Identified:
Finally, I revisited the video I saw originally and figured out, it might be the E-steps per mm. I went through trial and error to come to 92 and realized, I had mistakenly inserted a number for a different extruder setup.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I'm an Ender 3 Pro user and I've been through almost every problem this machine has.
1. If you are on original hotend and Bowden style extruder, then first try the hot end PTFE fix
2. What the picture may show is a temperature too low, especially on these bad layers. Raise the temperature like you have tried (200 °C is good).
3. To avoid prints being knocked off the bed, try brim (it's in bed-adhesion in Cura), most people don't use raft anymore. What brim does is to add addition loops on the first layer of your prints and make it sticks as good as possible.
4. No raft, add brim. Then disable Z-hop, enable combing in Cura.
These steps should be able to mitigate the problem.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I use the older 2018 model of the Ender3, and so far I have had only to replace some consumables and my extruder for an aluminium one, some nozzles, and one time a fresh Bowden, and I am golden.
To me, I see 2 problems:
* You might print too cold. I print PLA at 200 °C, some brands I do print a little hotter.
* You measured your extrusion rate. That is wrong. You need to calculate your steps per millimeter!
Because I don't know your printer, you need to look at how to calculate your proper steps/mm. I assume you have the Typical NEMA17 motor with a 1.8° per step (=200 Steps per rotation) and 16 Microsteps:
* $d=2\times r$ diameter of the push-gear = 2\*Radius
* $C=d\times\pi$ Is the Circumference
* $Step = 1.8°$ & $Ms=16$
* $S=\frac {\frac{360°}{Step}\times Ms}C =\frac {200\times Ms}C =\frac {3200}{d\times\pi}$ Steps/mm
For a typical gear of about 10.5 to 11 mm diameter, that gives numbers between 97 and 92.5 steps/mm. Use your calculator to establish the minimum and maximum numbers first by using the top and bottom of the gear. Then you can test for the correct number in between these numbers. Depending on how soft the material is, the place for the effective gear diameter shifts: softer materials are closer to the high steps/mm number, harder ones more to the low steps/mm end.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I noticed that on my Ender 3, if the belts aren't tight enough, I have a similar problem, but mostly when I print anything circular.
> 0 votes
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Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3, hotend, bigtreetech
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thread-14999 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14999 | Thermoelectric cooler for part cooling fan? | 2020-12-09T17:58:35.830 | # Question
Title: Thermoelectric cooler for part cooling fan?
Is there any research into use of thermoelectric cooler along with part cooling fan to get quicker cooling without strong air currents that apply pressure to the still-soft material? I experimented with custom fan ducts in the past trying to get better cooling and avoid warping for printing thin layers of PLA at high speeds, but found that the concentrated stream of air blowing on the part actually deformed it before it could cool. At the time I wondered if using significantly colder air, at a much lower flow, would work better. But every time I've searched for thermoelectric (peltier) coolers with 3D printing, I've found results that are about cooling motors or the heatbreak (especially inside heated enclosures), nothing about part cooling.
If there is no research on this and I want to experiment myself at some point, are there constraints I should consider for how to mount it (in my case on an Ender 3, but also in general)? Perhaps on a separate intake duct before the cooling fan? Or between the cooling fan and hotend assembly to let the waste heat dump into the assembly that the hotend fan is already cooling?
# Answer
> 2 votes
# On the printhead?
TECs or Peltier Elements are incredibly inefficient compared to airstream coolers. Their only benefit is perfect temperature control, from which you will have nothing because there is no firmware that cares for the temperature of cooling air or the cooling body of a Hotend. Also, a TEC creates a lot of heat on its output side - which means you heat the air just millimeters away from where you want to cool the air!
To get the heat produced by the TEC away, you either need a rather large cooling body - which is a lot of weight and space you need. As a result, you reduce the maximum print speed a lot. A water cooler isn't necessarily that much lighter, but it also gets us the trouble of having a highly conductive liquid right on the printhead.
## lighter alternative: compressed air
You'd have much better efficiency by having compressed air decompress (as in: get out of a slim nozzle) slowly just a few millimeters in front of the air intake of your part cooling fan - expanding air cools down a lot, and running a compressor for a few moments takes less energy than running a Peltier element with the same temperature drop. In a pinch, a CO2 canister could provide the needed high pressure air, and a nozzle like you have it on an airbrush would work.
# Move it off the printhead?
As the weight of the necessary secondary equipment is an issue, it might be better to move the Peltier element off the printhead. For example, by using a flexible hose that supplies the air to the cooling fan, and feeding that with precooled air - and now a Peltier element can shine: by having the weight be no longer a matter, we can use a rather large cooling body on the outside and cooling fins on the inside.
# Answer
> 1 votes
**For cooling the printed object:**
1. Combined with air compresser
What seems the most practical is to use an air compressor with a tank large enough to ensure that the air in the tank has time to cool off. This gives you the option of adding an air dryer if needed. You could cool the compressed air just before blowing on the print though a Peltier cooler and get additional cooling as the air releases toward the print.
Information link:
https://labincubators.net/blogs/blog/peltier-vs-compressor-based-cooling
https://labincubators.net/blogs/blog/peltier-vs-compressor-based-cooling
2. Printer Ceiling
You could put a Peltier cooler on the ceiling with a heatsink/cold-sink covering most of the inside ceiling and fans only on the external (outside the ceiling wall) heated part of the Peltier. Convection would move the air. Without and enclosure, positioning the Peltier to use convection would be good because the fans, especially those removing the heat would not be fighting convection.
3. Printer Bed
You could use a Peltier cooler to both heat and cool the print bed. All you need for stitching is to change the polarity of the voltage on the Peltier. A Peltier could handle those temperatures well. While Peltier heaters/coolers aren't energy efficient, because they can do both, they have good and quick temperature control.
If you wanted to get fancy, you could have multiple Peltier devices across the bed, so that you could keep heat under the print and have all the other devices cool. You would need to know the fastest rate you could change temperature without cracking the glass on a glass bed.
**Cooling the heat sink on the extruder.** (answering a different question)
The most practical way to use a Peltier cooler is to take advantage of its temperature differential over a short distance. One could put it between the heater block and the heat sink, requiring a hole in the cooler for the filament to feed through. The Peltier effect has a limit of a 70°C maximum differential between the hot and cold side. Another limit is manufactures list a maximum temperature of 200°C on the hot side. This is usually because of solder joints.
1. The Peltier cooler would need to be customer made to fit between the heater block and heat sink a) hole in the middle, b) designed to withstand heater block temperatures \>200°C.
2. The heat sink probably still needs a fan due to the maximum temperature differential of 70°C. A 70°C maximum temperature differential makes it difficult to be the only source of cooling. Rarely are Peltier coolers the only source of cooling. Only when they are in an insulated barrier such as in the wall of a ice chest. Other wise the heat from the hot side mixes with the cold side. Peltier coolers move heat from one surface of the material a short distance to the other side of the material. If you don't cool the hot side of the material, when using it in an open area such as an extruder, the heat will circle back around to the cold side.
Its main advantage would be a fast drop in temperature between the heater block and heat sink. However, it is an expensive project, and one needs to evaluate of this could be better achieved by other methods.
Links using Peltier cooling with 3D printers:
https://www.thermoelectric.com/3d-printing/
https://dyzedesign.com/2020/02/water-cooling-and-peltier-cooling-in-3d-printers/
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/bmwepl/has\_anyone\_tried\_peltier\_cooling\_for\_the\_part/
https://hackaday.io/project/26369-better-cooling-for-3d-printer-extruders
Visual example:
Cold plate
# Answer
> 0 votes
It is true that if you try to do bridges with a very hot filament the cooling air will deform or push away the hot filament if it's set at high speed, or it won't cool it enough if you run the fan slower.
I experienced it with PETG at 245 °C while performing a parametric optimisation as described in:
Still, the TEC are inefficient and they require a bulky heatsink to cool the hot side. Not only that, you also need a heatsink with thin fins to cool the air, which cannot be too small too because the air is flowing relatively fast.
Overall, it's clearly not practicable so I doubt you will find studies to confirm what is obvious.
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Tags: cooling
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thread-10611 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10611 | Is it necessary to replace the SMD fuses in RAMPS 1.5 or greater, for use with 24 volts? | 2019-07-16T07:02:36.777 | # Question
Title: Is it necessary to replace the SMD fuses in RAMPS 1.5 or greater, for use with 24 volts?
One of the main hacks for converting RAMPS 1.4 boards to use with 24 V, as stated in RAMPS 24V, is replacing the polyfuses, principally `F2` (MF-R1100), with wire and using an inline (car blade or wire) fuse on the heatbed wire (or between PSU and RAMPS) instead<sup>1</sup>. However, that is for the RAMPS 1.4 boards.
As RAMPS 1.5 notes (as well as 0scar's answer to RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?):
> The RAMPS 1.5 uses small surface-mounted fuses rather than the large yellow fuses prone to breakage on the RAMPS 1.4. The downside is that replacing the fuses becomes much more difficult.
Are these SMD fuses rated the same voltages, or greater? Yes, this could be a bit like asking "How long is a piece of string" as it depends upon the manufacturer, but does anyone know what voltage *should* they be rated for?
Ultimately, if they are both rated at greater than 24 V, then there should be no need to replace them.
The answer on this thread, Re: Ramps1.4 or Ramps1.5 or ramps 1.6??? states:
> OK the ramps 1.6 can only handle 12v OR 24V
so, that would imply that the intention for 24 V support was there, although, unfortunately, the poster does not post their reference.
However, the PDF of the RAMPS 1.6 schematic shows the same rated fuses as the RAMPS 1.4
Nevertheless, that seems like a straight forward copy and paste from the RAMPS 1.4 schematic as it clearly references the MF-R500 PTC, and obviously SMD fuses have been used instead - or are the part numbers the same for the SMD fuses..? I had a google but couldn't see MF-R500 SMD fuses (maybe I didn't look hard enough?).
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### Footnote
<sup>1</sup> This is because the 11 A fuse is only rated to 16 V. Note that `F1` (MF-R500) is rated for 5 A at 30 V, and as such is sufficient for 24 V operation.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Without knowing the exact part numbers used for F1 and F2 it is impossible to say whether the fuses need to be replaced or not. However, based on the manufacturer provided schematic and BOM we can make a pretty good guess.
Looking at the PDF you linked, it states that F1 is rated for 16V. Looking at the BOM spreadsheet it also says F1 is 16V and 30A.
Based on the fact that the only two reference documents available say 16V, I would strongly recommend replacing this component for 24V operation.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I found that at least the following two RAMPS 1.6 derived boards are 24 V capable without modifications:
* Bigtreetech RAMPS 1.6 Plus (see the PCB layout picture in this offer)
* King Print RAMPS 1.6 Plus
This information is so far only from webshop offers, so might not be the most reliable (and I did not test it myself yet). If somebody can find a confirmation from the manufacturer's spec documents, please let me know.
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Tags: printer-building, power-supply
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thread-14991 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14991 | Ender 3 v2 Cura Profiles - Anyone willing to help/share? | 2020-12-09T03:47:57.777 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 v2 Cura Profiles - Anyone willing to help/share?
I searched online, and found two YouTubers who shared their Ender 3 v2 printer profiles, and I've been having more or less better success with theirs than mine, possibly because I was basing mine off the Ender 3, and they were basing theirs off the Ender 3 Pro...
Would anyone here have the settings for the Ender 3 v2 for Cura, that's the printer definition, with the measurements, offsets, etc. and also maybe a few print profiles, one of my biggest problems is stringing, lots of my prints have stringing, and the new profiles helped with that, but I'd like to have some more, and also a solid baseline from which to build, and learn, and try to figure out what I'm doing wrong...
# Answer
Use the profile for any Ender 3 model, or better yet just start from scratch and put in the important properties that actually vary per machine - bed size, temperatures needed, etc.
Cura profiles for specific printers, especially the ones Youtubers are promoting, are almost always misguided if not outright wrong. They're a mix something like 5-10% settings that are actually physical characteristics of the machine, and another 5-10% dubious settings that are tradeoffs that *might* help avoid common problems for the machine at the expense of making other (often worse) problems, and the remaining 80-90% personal preferences of the person who made the profile. For instance, looking at Cura's base Creality profile:
* Machine max accelerations are all wrong, at 500 mm/s². The machine can actually handle at least 3000 mm/s², and unless you've updated firmware to have Linear Advance, increasing acceleration is the only way to avoid inconsistent extrusion.
* Z speed limit and acceleration are very low. This makes seam more severe and has no benefit.
* Print speeds are random and differ per type (outer wall, inner wall, skin, infill, etc.) which doesn't work right on a bowden machine without Linear Advance firmware.
* Z seam type is overridden. This is purely personal preference and has nothing to do with the type of printer.
* Gaps filling settings are overridden. Same issue.
* Retraction settings are botched, especially increase of window for max retraction count from 4.5 mm (default) to 10 mm, which will cause severe omission of retractions (thus stringing, oozing, and failed adhesion) in any print with thin layers and fine detail.
* Enabling skirt. This is purely preference.
* Lots of support settings. What's needed here is 90% of a function of the object you're printing and 10% a function of your machine's properties and there's no indication that the settings in the profile have anything to do with properties of Creality machines.
Etc. etc. etc. Most of the above dubious/wrong stuff was added fairly recently in Cura, taken from the "Creawsome" profile popular on Youtube and Reddit. Before that they had a more minimal profile that at least wasn't wrong.
The actual properties you need to set in the profile for your particular machine are:
* Bed size/print volume
* Heated bed
* Filament diameter
* Nozzle size
* Retraction length (depends on hotend and extruder type, bowden tube length if bowden)
* Retraction speeds (depends on extruder capability & friction in path, etc.)
* Fan speeds (depends on how powerful your fan is)
Setting max speeds and accelerations is also useful to get more accurate print time predictions, but not necessary.
> 1 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3
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thread-15007 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15007 | BLTouch Z offset needs changes | 2020-12-10T21:37:38.750 | # Question
Title: BLTouch Z offset needs changes
Just installed a BLTouch sensor on my Ender 3 Pro (using firmware version: `Ender-3 Pro1.1.6BLTouchV3.1PowerLossContinueEnglish`), it all works great but each time I set the Z-offset I need to add it again. I home it, it requires -2.9 mm to get a paper sheet thickness from bed so I added that to my 0.00 Z-offset.
When I did a test print, the nozzle was way above bed, so I home the head, moved the Z axis and once again it is 2.9 mm to the correct location. Added this to my Z-offset again... been doing this now for a while and my offset is current at 11.2 mm! I did it on the screen and saved, hence up to 11.2 on the z offset now. If I power off and back on it once again is 2.9 mm from the correct location?
# Answer
I can't really follow the information provided but I've read that Creality had some issues with saving settings if there was no SD-card in the printer when saving, could this be the issue?
I would recommend trying another firmware (not from Creality but something like Smith3D.com (https://smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/) which I've used before with success.
If you're willing to pay for precompiled firmware (and support the Marlin developers) I can also recommend https://marlin.crc.id.au/ (which I use now)
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis, bltouch
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thread-14741 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14741 | "Err: MAXTEMP: E1" when THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS is disabled | 2020-11-07T12:23:12.393 | # Question
Title: "Err: MAXTEMP: E1" when THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS is disabled
I am trying to port Marlin to my Qidi Tech 1 printer which previously ran Sailfish 7.8. Everything worked fine on the old board, including the temperature sensors.
All cables except for power, LCD, and USB (for flashing) are disconnected. I am still very early on in testing and have yet to plug anything else in.
When uploading Marlin to the board, at first startup I received the following error:
```
Err: MAXTEMP: E1
PRINTER HALTED
Please Reset
```
There may be a problem with my configuration. So I commented out all of the thermal runaway protection options since the bed and extruders aren't yet connected:
```
//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS
//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED
//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_CHAMBER
```
I rebuilt, flashed, reset, and the printer is still telling me that E1 is at MAXTEMP.
Why am I still getting this thermal protection message?
I cleared the EEPROM from the LCD menu in Sailfish before flashing.
This board uses an ATmega2560 and I'm using the default fuses (E:FD, H:D8, L:FF, LOCK:CF).
# Answer
> 1 votes
#define THERMAL\_PROTECTION\_HOTENDS is for thermal runaway. When the temperature "should" be climbing or falling at a predicable rate, or holding steady once at running temp.
#define HEATER\_0\_MAXTEMP defines the maximum temperature Marlin will allow the extruder to get to before initiating a shutdown. This is ALWAYS active for an active extruder (E0) This setting is what will throw MAXTEMP if it is exceeded.
MAXTEMP error when there is no heat on is usually from a short in the thermistor cable.
# Answer
> 0 votes
`MAXTEMP` and `MINTEMP` are **not** part of the Thermal Runaway Protection, but separate, equally needed safety nets: Mintemp is meant to make sure that the printer does not try to run cold, Maxtemp is the operational limit of your printer - if the machine tries to go hotter, the firmware denies and shuts down. Maxtemp is usually set to about 235 °C for a lined hotend.
A defective thermosensor can trigger Mintemp and Maxtemp errors by virtue of either shorting or by having no connectivity. The same behavior is exploited in a simple test if the triggers are set: disconnect the leads for unlimited resistance that the board interprets as an absurd high temperature, then short the leads, as 0 Ohm registers as an insanely low temperature.
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, thermal-runaway
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thread-15018 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15018 | Printer halted! Psu dead? | 2020-12-11T21:51:04.650 | # Question
Title: Printer halted! Psu dead?
My Anet A8 Plus worked normally, but after the weekend and changing for new bearings on the rods, it is not working anymore at all.
I experience random reboots, the nozzle can only heat to about 10 °C away from the target and then starts to drop, the printer gives the halted error.
Example: Target is 240 °C, the nozzle temperature goes to like 232 °C and then starts to drop pretty fast. The Bed heats good otherwise.
# troubleshooting so far
The PSU gives 24 V and the supply voltage switch is 220 V like it should. No matter if I try print it through OctoPrint or Cura, the same thing happens.
How it can break this bad just from replacing a few bearings is not clear to me. Do these reboots mean the PSU is dead and not giving constant voltage? Reboots come even idle or just bed heating etc.
# Answer
Reboots happen in 2 cases on a printer:
* If the board power has been below a the operational threshold (~3 V) and the capacitors on the board are empty, the power dip can result in a reboot.
* If a device connects to the serial-USB port, it reboots.
If you power up the printer not connected to any other device, it should run continuously. If it flickers and reboots, the power-lines to the board or the PSU are bad. Check those in reverse.
If it only reboots again and again when connected to a serial port (PC, Octoprint etc), your problem is the cable - it might be jiggling or be defective, or otherwise de- and re-connect again and again.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8
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thread-15016 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15016 | How to log each G-code line read from the SD card to serial on marlin firmware | 2020-12-11T20:20:48.493 | # Question
Title: How to log each G-code line read from the SD card to serial on marlin firmware
I would like to log each line of G-code to the serial port as it is processed.
**Steps to achieve**:
* the printer reads a file from the SD card
* each line it reads will be serial logged (this I can't figure out)
* those lines can then read via the serial monitor on a laptop
So by the end of the print, on my laptop I would have the reconstructed G-code file (plus whatever other logs the printer outputs).
The printer runs the Prusa Firmware. Ideally I would like to achieve the logging from altering the firmware rather than adding an extra plugin/server (For understanding and experimenting purposes).
**What I tried**
I have looked in code and found the print functions and examples of them in use in the code. This line is the "command, which is to be excecuted right now", but I think that would be the just one command not the full line.
The cardreader or SdBaseFile are where I would expect a G-code line to be read such that I could add a print statement after it but I did not see where.
Would it be as easy as setting this card.logging bool to true?
I imagine this is quite an easy thing to do and that I have just overcomplicated it by trying to understand the firmware. Any advice would be great!
# Answer
> 0 votes
In `cmdqueue.h` the `CMDBUFFER_DEBUG` macro is defined (see here) which will log lots of information related to the commands being processed. Probably more information than you need...
To log only the commands as they are processed (i.e. when the printer moves and extrudes etc.) you need this line from marlin\_main.cpp: `SERIAL_ECHO(cmdbuffer+bufindr+CMDHDRSIZE);`.
You can copy this outside of the `#ifdef CMDBUFFER_DEBUG` condition and compile the firmware then when you connect to the serial port each G-code line the printer processes will be logged.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you have the hardware at hand, you can use OctoPrint to collect the data you require. It's common for users to create an OctoPrint server on a Raspberry Pi, but it can be installed easily on a Windows or Linux machine as well. Once in place, logging is available for various types of information.
From the OctoPrint blog:
The logs are crucial instruments of analysis and debugging, so it's usually in your best interest to provide them when asking for help or reporting a bug, even if not explicitly prompted for them:
> octoprint.log: OctoPrint's main application log file. Contains a general log of everything that happens while OctoPrint is running. Includes version information, installed plugins and a myriad of more data points.
>
> This must always be included when reporting a bug 47 to allow for further analysis and reproduction. It is also a very good idea to provide this when asking for help :wink:
>
> serial.log: A log of all of the communication going on between OctoPrint and your printer. Usually disabled for performance reasons, enable it through Settings \> Serial Connection.
>
> Either that or at the very least the output in OctoPrint's Terminal tab is crucial for analysis of any kind of communication issues or misbehaviours observed with your printer, so it's important to include it when discussing such issues.
>
> plugin\_pluginmanager\_console.log: A log of the command line activity of the plugin manager. Very important for analysis of such questions like "Why can't I install plugin $xyz?", so if you have such a problem, best include this.
>
> plugin\_softwareupdate\_console.log: A log of the command line activity of the software updater. Very important for analysis of such questions like "Updating OctoPrint always fails, why?", so if you have such a problem, best include this.
Third party plugins might also have special log files here. If a plugin author asks you to provide a special log created by their plugin for further analysis, this should be where you can find it.
The above selection is from the linked site, which also includes embedded links for more information regarding the log files. Note that serial.log is specifically referenced to collect data between OctoPrint and your printer, although it defaults to disabled on install.
---
Tags: marlin, g-code, serial-connection
--- |
thread-14003 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14003 | FlashForge Finder turns off mid print and is unable to reset or update firmware | 2020-07-02T22:20:06.913 | # Question
Title: FlashForge Finder turns off mid print and is unable to reset or update firmware
I am new to 3D printing and am trying to get started with a FlashForge Finder. Unfortunately, the printer keeps shutting off mid print, and I am unable to find a cause. Here's what I have tried thus far:
* **System Settings**
+ **Factory Reset** \- When I attempt a factory reset, nothing happens (the menu closes, but usage stats & wifi do not get reset)
+ **Firmware Update** \- Updating the firmware from the touchscreen immediately fails every time
* **Printing**
+ I can start a new print, but the machine turns off after about ~10-15 minutes at temperature
+ The transformer on the power cable remains lit green even after the machine fails and turns off
+ I have tried printing multiple files from Thingiverse with no edits (an elephant and an owl)
+ Temperature is set to 220 °C
* **Observations**
+ One of the times that the print failed, I noticed that the temperature had dropped to ~204 °C prior to failing. I don't know if that's normal behavior or not
# Answer
Try unplugging the USB lead as soon as the printer starts to print (I had similar issue and this worked for me).
> -2 votes
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Tags: print-failure, flashforge-finder
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thread-15032 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15032 | Where to find "Heat deflection temperature" , "Impact resistance Charpy" and "Tensile strength" for a specific brand Filament PLA? | 2020-12-13T19:59:52.017 | # Question
Title: Where to find "Heat deflection temperature" , "Impact resistance Charpy" and "Tensile strength" for a specific brand Filament PLA?
I have an MK3S 3D printer, and I use this table as a reference on how to tune my printer for a specific Filament brand.
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials
I am trying to find a few missing parameters for a specific brand Filament PLA in the table.
The missing parameters are listed and shown in the image below.
* Heat deflection temperature
* Impact resistance Charpy
* Tensile strength
Where is the best place or reference to find such missing data?
# Answer
Unless the Manufacturer offers them, you have to extrapolate from other brands. Most PLAs are very close and hit within 10% of one another.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: pla, prusa-i3
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thread-10640 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10640 | Why don't LCD printers use subpixels in color panels? | 2019-07-20T22:38:52.467 | # Question
Title: Why don't LCD printers use subpixels in color panels?
The LCD resin printers I've looked at have pretty standard resolutions like for a smartphone and I understand they use the same technology. However, color LCD screens have three RGB sub-pixels for each color pixel. Check for example this magnified picture of an S-IPS LCD screen: It seems like they could just omit the color filter and have three grayscale pixels for each color pixel.
3D printing just uses one color - UV. So why don't they have resolutions that are multiples of three of the usual resolutions?
All results about sub-pixels that I could find are about anti-aliasing, which is different (using the existing pixels better vs. having more pixels).
# Answer
If what Thomas Sanladerer states is correct, the Mars 2 Pro (monochrome LCD, no color filter) has a layer time approximately 1/3 as long as the Mars/Pro printers (where color LCDs are used):
This would indicate that the light passing through the LCD, when the color filter is present, is 1/3. Put it in other words, only ONE subpixel is capable of transmitting UV light.
Consequently, using all of them would not improve resolution because the other subpixels are always opaque.
> 1 votes
# Answer
It should be as simple as using a monochrome LCD. You don't actually want any color filters to interfere with the UV light.
Do we know that LCD printers are not using monochrome LCD panels? It always seemed so obvious that I assumed it was the practice. All you need are the front and back polarizer layer and the LCD itself to rotate the light.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: dlp, resin, lcd-screen
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thread-8023 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8023 | Under-extrusion after a certain amount of successful layers? | 2019-01-21T05:58:41.080 | # Question
Title: Under-extrusion after a certain amount of successful layers?
My CR-10 is starting prints, BUT then makes weird spiral pattern, layers go up vertically with large gaps. Hollow infill.
I don’t know if it’s: \- My Slicing skills \- original files \- the printer itself Long explanation. Questions at the end. I’ve had beautiful normal prints. Then I’ve had these abnormal spiral layer prints with infill issues and spaghetti monsters (the images don’t show but, where the prints pictured end, is not the full print, it did the weird spiral then just stopped layering altogether). I’m semi-new to printing and don’t have too much of a tech background apart from average use. Been researching a couple months, I’ve only been printing for about a week. I’ve had an amazing couple prints. Baby groot was flawless, barely noticeable layers. The test print (a rather thick disk with deep grid marks and a puppy on top) that came with the printer was the same smooth flawless, it wasn’t my first print though. So the behavior seems erratic. The two prints pictured had several successful print in between them.
I do know:
The elder wand file was in several tutorials and was printed successfully. Its in two parts. The first part, which is way shorter and thicker printed Amazingly. The second part pictured was double the height+ and 1/4 the thickness. I even printed it successfully once before going horizontally and flat against the bed. BUT I had to run the print three times because the filament would not stick to the glass. It was just being dragged along behind the nozzle. But I was observing so I ended the print before it went too far. All I did to change this was add a brim and supports. Which gave a “successful print” except the fact that one of the knobs has a flat spot and the support remnants were very noticeable. Resolution was terrible too. Hence why I decided to try printing it vertically.
The bigger print pictured is the base of a hufflepuff horecrux cup, the first time I printed it was with cura slicer, it came out beautifully but the stem snapped right under the base of the cup part st some point, and the left handle had some wierd stringing issues, like 7 pure strands of filament hanging out one corner, and the print failed s fee layers from top. However the file description only had one previous make listed and the thing with the top of the handle and print failed about the same with that persons print.
Sorry for the long post. I’d just really appreciate any help, and I wanted to give all the details.
# Answer
<sub>This is partial answer and comment as it was too big to fit the comment section, it will be a proper answer once the question is updated by the OP.</sub>
What you call a weird spiral pattern is the result of under-extrusion. When there is under-extrusion, the resulting print is sparsely filled. The reason for this under-extrusion is most probably partial clogging of the nozzle, or an issue with the extruder itself. One explanation could be that you are suffering from heat creep, but the information you provide is not enough to explain this or any other solution further in detail. Clogging can e.g. be caused by retraction settings and/or temperature settings, without your settings it is a guess what this is actually causing this.
---
Looking at the print deteriorate the higher the Z becomes this is most probably a heat creep issue, so you print too hot with too large retraction settings.
> 5 votes
# Answer
This intermittent underextrusion can be caused by a broken part in the extruder on the CR-10 / Ender 3. Check if the plastic mount that holds the idler wheel in place is torn. Depending on the height and the resulting varying tension from the filament the idler wheel gets in and out of alignment.
> 2 votes
# Answer
While uncommon, this issue could be caused by having no minimum layer time set. This could lead to printing on a still very hot surface, which in turn ripples and moves, creating a little wave pattern. The wave pattern then can grow into this diagonal pattern.
You might manage to reduce the issue by setting a minimum layer time of 10 to 15 seconds.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Using a CR-10S which printed fine for about 6 months (PLA, 200/58°C), then similar problems started: Interestingly, the height of the "problem zone" appeared to be related to the melting point of the PLA used: lower melting point = problems appear at a lower height. Suspecting heat creep, I swapped both hot-end fans... but things got only marginally better.
As I could rule out extruder issues (metal extruder, new gear), the bowden tube (replaced, upgraded couplings), I looked at the hotend again. There was clearly not enough "melting power" (25mm/sec would print ok, but not 50mm/sec). I then checked the INSIDE temperature of the heater block (butting a thermocouple right behind the nozzle, with the bowden tube removed)... turns out that 200°C (set in Cura and shown on the display) are more like 180°C! In order to get near 200°C, I had to set 220°C in the slicer - and printing DID improve (underextrusions greatly reduced).
I'm still not happy with the situation, b/c deviations like this usually don't come out of the blue... it's not the first time that I read about CR10/CR10S hotend temperatures not being read correctly, so I suspect that this might be the reason for many "mysteriously" unter-extruding CR10s... (BTW: my temp values don't fluctuate and I have the correct capacitor on the mainboard).
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, adhesion, layer-height, creality-cr-10, print-failure
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thread-15034 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15034 | Can't get bed to level properly | 2020-12-13T23:53:58.693 | # Question
Title: Can't get bed to level properly
I am new to 3D printing and just purchased an Ender 3 V2 about two weeks ago. Since I've got it, I've been having trouble leveling the bed. I've tried watching videos, but they don't say how much friction on the paper is good or bad. I have even tried foil, playing cards, and a business card but still can't tell if it's good enough or not. Then when I would try printing calibration squares and adjust as it prints, but when it prints all looks good when printing the outside ring, but when it gets to the square parts there are bumps on the print from the nozzle being too close. Also when I seem to have corner perfect, when it gets to the center it's too close to the nozzle and doesn't even print. I'm using the stock glass bed so I'm not sure if that could be the issue. This is getting frustrating as I really want to start printing. And I want to save money for other parts and try avoiding purchasing a BL Touch if I don't need to. Am I doing something wrong? How can I get this resolved?
Forgot to mention, I upgraded the springs to these yellow ones on Amazon.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Step 1: stop using paper and get some feeler gauges. The gauge should be able to just barely pass under the HEATED nozzle.
Step 2: What are you using for bed adhesion? I use Elmer's white glue. After you think you've trammed (aka levelled) the bed, apply a generous layer of the glue in a coat on the bed. Let it dry.
Step 3: Verify bed level with a large square print that will cause the head to move to the outermost parts of the bed. Stop the print after a few outlines. Try to remove the print. If some areas are easier to remove than others, apply another coat of Elmer's glue to those areas.
Note: Do not hold down all four (4) corners of the glass bed. The aluminium plate is not going to be flatter than the glass. Only attach the glass to the bed on one side of the bed. I use the side that is furthest from the nozzle.
# Answer
> 1 votes
First, make sure the slate of glass is straight, this can be checked with e.g. a metal ruler on its side against the glass surface. If the glass isn't straight (which should be per the production process of glass, but there have been reported bad glass beds) you never get a perfect level over the whole bed. Also make sure the glass sits on a clean heated bed plate (no debris between the heater and the glass).
Second, level the bed, start with powering the printer. You need to sequentially do the following as adjusting the one corner (screw), affects the other corners (continue this until the bed is level and the one corner doesn't affect the other corners anymore):
* Home the machine,
* heat up the bed and nozzle to e.g. PLA printing temperatures,
* move the nozzle close to a corner (a different one than the previous corner),
* put a piece of plain printing paper on the bed,
* lower the nozzle to Z=0,
* adjust the screw in that corner until the piece of paper can be dragged under the nozzle with a slight resistance,
* repeat by starting with homing the printer.
After several rounds of leveling and having a level/straight bed to begin with, you should have a leveled bed that has been leveled against the printers' X-axis.
Now, when printing something it should be level, the only thing that might not be correct is the distance between the nozzle and the bed. E.g. some users prefer a larger distance between bed and nozzle when printing PETG (not my personal experience, but a generally accepted truth). This distance can be tuned without having to re-level your bed; you could if you want to use a thicker or thinner paper, but you can easily change the Z=0 by redefining the Z=0 level at e.g. 0.10 mm height if the nozzle to close. Some slicers even allow you to add an offset (e.g. the "Z Offset Setting" plugin in Ultimaker Cura from developer "FieldOfView").
When you have dialed in the distance also correctly, you should get perfect prints.
Do note that a common issue with these over-constraint "cantilever" printer designs is that by powering a single side, the opposite needs to follow exactly, that is a challenge with that many parts. My preference is using dual lead screws, preferably driven by a timing belt for Prusa type printers.
Addressing the BLTouch part in your question; before you wander in the world of automatic bed leveling (AB) you should first master getting a level bed, or fix the X-axis rollers on Z beams. For ABL you also need to level your bed first else you get non-square prints. The roller solution is one of the major drawbacks of these printers, you need to make sure the X-axis (aluminum extrusion bar) stays level (or better trammed) in relation to the bed level, loose rollers should be properly tensioned.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you find the bed on an Ender 3 doesn't seem to "take" a level - in other words, if you keep trying to level it and things seem right, but then it's obviously wrong when you actually start printing, and checking the leveling doesn't seem to match what you set before - the problem is most likely in the Z axis mechanics. The Z assembly (including the X axis gantry) is highly *overconstrained*, between the 6 wheels, the lead screw nut, and the 4 screws attaching the gantry to the Z carriages. When it's not functioning properly, whether from fighting constraints, overtightening, undertightening, etc. you can end up with really bad reproducability\* of position in the Z axis, so that homing and moving to a particular Z coordinate gives different results each time you repeat, due to which components bind and which ones give.
If this is your problem, I don't have a good system for solving it. I've fought with it on and off over 2 years of owning one of these machines. At least you should check that the 2 screws holding the left side of the gantry to the Z carriage are very tight (note: they're hidden and inaccessible without taking off the top bar and raising the assembly off the Z extrusions) and that the gantry is mounted level to the carriage bracket, since any play here will ruin everything. One easy thing you can try to confirm whether you have leveling reproducability problems from Z axis problems is disconnecting the right side carriage entirely and tying it off at the top so it doesn't interfere; you can do this without disassembling anything else. This lets you operate the Ender 3 "as an Ender 2", i.e. with a cantilever setup. It's less rigid and probably not a good choice overall, but if it solves your problem then your problem is almost surely something in the overconstrained Z system and now you know where to look.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Don't worry too much about it. If you print with a first layer height of 0.3mm, bed levelling only needs to be approximate. If that doesn't work, and you cannot get good bed adhesion, try printing onto blue painter's tape (ScotchBlue). This makes a very forgiving build surface. You will need to clean it well with isopropyl alcohol (or acetone), since it is coated with a wax-based release agent that may prevent the filament from sticking. Once you have got used to printing, you can then refine your bed-levelling techniques.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, glass-bed
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thread-15048 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15048 | 3D model with errors when exporting to Cura | 2020-12-16T00:34:05.570 | # Question
Title: 3D model with errors when exporting to Cura
I 3D modeled a cartoon car using Blender, mostly using add and subtract with boolean tools. When I export to Ultimaker Cura, I get these cuts along the model. Does anyone know why this is happening? Appreciate any feedback on the model.
The blender file: https://github.com/dantedaiki/jQuery-File-Upload/blob/master/Cartoon%20Car.blend
# Answer
> 0 votes
In blender, you can occasionally have faces with flipped normals. Those areas then are "inside out". Such areas are just ignored in Cura. Fixing the files is as simple as recalculating the normals, but you'd best use a program like NetFabb for for that.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, 3d-models, blender
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thread-7533 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7533 | Why does infill percentage stop the print from sticking to the bed? | 2018-11-29T16:08:20.250 | # Question
Title: Why does infill percentage stop the print from sticking to the bed?
I've recently purchased an Ender 3 and have had great success with some Cura settings found on a YouTube Tutorial at 0.2 mm resolution.
So then I noticed that there were default settings in Cura for the Ender 3. Except printing at 0.2 mm it selects a 20 % infill, and when choosing 0.1 mm it changed the infill to 10 %.
I changed infill to 20 % and attempted to print this but there were gaps in the bottom layer and it won't stick to the bed. Is there anything else I need to change in the process?
The shape is essentially a cube with a circular hole in the middle, sliced in half.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The more infill, the more material. The more material, the more stress is inside the part while it cools down from printing temperature to ambient temperature. Parts with higher infill density tend to warp more (the edges curl up).
But 20 % should be fine, you shouldn't have any issue at that percentage (unless you're printing with ABS/ASA).
I think it's a first layer issue, the 0.2 mm first layer gets more 'squished' onto the bed, thats why you get better adhesion. I'm using PrusaSlicer, every default print profile in PrusaSlicer uses a 0.2 mm first layer, maybe there is something like that in Cura too?
For example the 0.1 mm PrusaSlicer profile will squish a 0.2 mm first layer onto the bed and changes to 0.1 mm layers for the rest of the print.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Basically you have 2 issues, first, an adhesion in combination with layer thickness problem, second, an infill problem.
Starting with the infill issue, when you lower the layer height, without increasing the amount of layers for the "Top/Bottom Thickness", you get a very thin shell (unless the top bottom thickness is expressed in mm). A lower layer height should, because of the lesser amount of filament being extruded over the infill, should be accompanied with a higher infill value, but that is necessary for the top layers, your issue is with the bottom layer and adhesion. As said, a lower layer height also implies lower filament flow, for the first layer this lower flow causes an inconsistent flow to adhere the filament to the bed (probably caused by the gap between the nozzle and bed from leveling with a piece of paper). Most slicers will add some extra features to increase the change to get the filament to stick to the bed; one of those is an increased first layer height (e.g. in Ultimaker Cura, the first default layer height for Ultimaker 3 printers is laarger than the rest of the layers), others include modifying the flow by e.g. over-extruding for the first layer.
You could try to increase your first layer height to the value you create successful prints with, specify the thickness of the bottom and top (or increase the amount of layers for printing these) and increase the infill percentage.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, infill
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thread-12094 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12094 | Does the Elegoo Mars printer support additional file formats? | 2020-02-28T01:49:50.093 | # Question
Title: Does the Elegoo Mars printer support additional file formats?
I recently bought an Elegoo Mars 3D printer. Generally speaking, I'm quite happy with it. But, I don't care for the slicing software, Chitubox. Does the Elegoo Mars support other 3D file formats? I have tried \*.stl files, but they don't seem to work with the factory firmware.
# Answer
> 2 votes
It also works with the `.photon` format of the Photon slicer.
It is only marginally better than ChituBox though.
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Tags: file-formats, elegoo-mars
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thread-13376 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13376 | Issues with print Prusa i3 infill breaking and causing clogs | 2020-04-10T04:04:38.050 | # Question
Title: Issues with print Prusa i3 infill breaking and causing clogs
I'm having some issues with my Prusa i3 prints. I'm trying to print the default beer opener print that came with the Prusa's memory card but the infill will break causing clogging and now allowing the print to finish. I've attached a picture of one of the failed prints.
I've checked Prusa's website and tried tightening the extruder gears and made sure the gears are clean. I'm using the PLA sent with the printer (1.75 mm) and with a default G-code file so I'm fairly sure it is a hardware issue, but I'm not sure what the issue could be.
Here is the link that I've used to help me troubleshoot.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The issue was the filament sent with the printer was PETG and not PLA like this gcode file called for.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Try calibrating your Z again. It is hard to tell based on the picture, but it could be too close to the build plate, and thus is dragging while crossing the infill section, or it could be too far away and thus is not getting good layer adhesion.
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Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, troubleshooting, infill
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thread-15060 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15060 | Ender 5 Underextruding | 2020-12-19T01:54:31.110 | # Question
Title: Ender 5 Underextruding
Recently I cleaned up the bowden tube and the nozzle, after that I noticed the 3D was underextruding because the walls of the prints were weak and the first layer didnt adhere on the bed. I watched some youtube tutorials on how to fix this and pulled the bowden tube until the nozzle, cleaned inside the tube and removed clogs. My temporary fix is setting the flow on Cura to 200%.
I added a extruder visualizer and it seems to be working just fine. Any ideas why it is underextruding?
I'm using PLA at 200C, bed at 60C
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you pulled the Bowden tube out of the hotend and then got this, you almost surely installed it wrong, leaving a gap between the tube and the nozzle for molten filament to fill and jam in. Remove it again with the hotend hot, and if there's a mess inside, look for guides on cleaning it. Then, to reassemble, loosen the fitting from the heat sink by 3/4 to one full turn, press the tube in as far as it will go, then tighten the fitting down to compress the tube against the nozzle.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, hotend, underextrusion
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thread-514 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/514 | What is the benefit of the Arduino shield based electronics? | 2016-02-06T22:02:59.700 | # Question
Title: What is the benefit of the Arduino shield based electronics?
Some electronics come as a single PCB. They have CPU and everything on just one board.
Other electronics are a shield for an Arduino. So these are always two boards. The Arduino and the other PCB.
You probably don't want to exchange the Arduino unless it is broken. Does it break that often or are the two boards just the predecessors of the one board solution?
What are the benefits/downsides to having one/two boards?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Many 3d printer motherboards are based on Arduino/Atmega microcontroller and just add some stepper motor drivers, MOSFETs and such in a single board. That explains why you use the Arduino IDE to update or modify their firmware.
Now why you would want to use an Arduino + an Arduino shield board like RAMPS? Well if you're not good at electronics, are happy with the cost of your own board, don't care much about upgrades/modding beyond what is possible with your board, maybe you shouldn't, it might be overwhelming.
There are several advantages with using Arduino with a shield for your 3d printer, "two boards are not just the predecessors of the one board solution", no.
1) It is moddable/exandable/upgradable/has replacable parts. If your printer came with its own motherboard that doesn't have additional or enough pins to add more fans, enclosure lights, a second extruder, an LCD and you want to, it sucks. RAMPS can do that, it has plenty of extra pins. It is upgradable. You want to replace the stepper drivers with a new one? Or you accidentally damaged the one you have? Fear not, you can just replace that instead of the whole motherboard. Think if it like other motherboards being PCs on which you can't change the CPU, RAM and GPU.
2) It is here for a long time, you will be able to acquire one for a long time. There isn't just one company making RAMPS or similar sheilds. Sometimes 3d printing companies go out of business or stop producing your particular motherboard. RAMPS is likely here to stay. Because Arduino is very likely here to stay.
3) As said above, not just one company owns or makes RAMPS or other Arduino shields. Besides the possibility of your motherboard not being produced anymore, there's also the advantage of not being at the mercy of one companies pricing and shipping policies. This is true for some other boards as well though.
4) It is possibly cheaper than what have you. I don't want to post a link, but one company right now is selling their derivative of Printrboard for like $180. Check the cost of Arduino Mega, stepper drivers and a RAMPS board yourself, quite a difference. That said, there are some boards which are close in price.
5) It's an Arduino. Why is this a good thing by itself? Because many people who have a 3d printer are tinkerers/makers and they already use Arduino for other projects. It is open source with a rich library to control many things. The modding and upgrades for your 3d printer which can be done with Arduino is another level higher. Or it can be a good learning experience for your future Arduino projects. If on the other hand you already use Arduino and are experienced with it, you might use it just because you know how to control it/fix it better than some specialized board you haven't seen before. Plus for a guy like you your 3d printer's motherboard will be an "off-the-shelf" part, that's nice, right?
Video on RAMPS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYJn6FuWOv4
# Answer
> 1 votes
There isn't really a big advantage to one solution or the other. The approach of having separate boards means it is more modular and broken parts can be replaced more easily, but electronics don't break on their own: it is almost always user error. If you are even a tiny bit careful when assembling your electronics, you won't ever have anything break and the advantage of having modular electronics is moot. On the other hand, there's no disadvantage to using modular electronics either.
Of course, another advantage of modular electronics is that you can upgrade separate components (for instance, swap in better stepper drivers). The value of this advantage depends on whether you eventually want to upgrade.
# Answer
> 1 votes
There is an advantage to the one who builds the shield: They don't have to design the circuit that is on the Arduino (main board), possibly even including Wifi or USB communication. The components on board are more expensive in small volumes, so the ready made boards are even competitive in price. Developers get a proven and well known board, with perfect support in software toolchains. Depending on the solution, they might even have less trouble with certification, as the high frequency components are already known. So, they only have to design the shield, holding some motor controllers, sensors or similar.
This makes it possible to produce small amounts of units very fast, which is also a benefit for the end users / end customers. It makes niche solutions possible at lower cost. Being able (if at all) to swap out a single component is likely not a real benefit, except if you enjoy taking your electronics apart.
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Tags: electronics, arduino
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thread-15067 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15067 | Over extruding and feeding gear is grinding Ender 3 pro | 2020-12-20T20:30:39.220 | # Question
Title: Over extruding and feeding gear is grinding Ender 3 pro
This issue is completely leaving me lost, my printer extrudes too much and leaves blobs yet the gear will just suddenly start grinding as soon as it begins to fill in the outline of my print. The grinding keeps going and the filament coming out just continues to blob leaving my prints a complete disaster. What confuses me is the fact that if the gear was grinding it would no longer feed more filament. The blobs proceed to then harden leaving my end essentially stuck dragging across cooled filament and pouring out even more of it into a disaster.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It sounds like a setting mismatch between your slicer settings and the physical printer configuration. Diagnostic and informational questions follow:
* Can you provide more details of your machine configuration and your slicer settings?
* Are you using the Creality Slicer?
* Can you also provide more information about what you are attempting to print?
* Are you printing a downloaded design or your own?
* Have you printed successfully before? If so, the key question would be to ask what has changed.
There are a number of settings to check, but the first one that comes to mind is the filament diameter setting in the slicer. Secondary to that would be the flow percent. Check the diameter of your filament versus the setting in the slicer. The grinding of the gear makes me think that the physical filament diameter is larger than the slicer setting. This could explain extruding too much material and producing "blobs" and also the grinding.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3, pla, extruder, troubleshooting
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thread-15049 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15049 | BLTouch Stopped Working | 2020-12-16T05:28:20.253 | # Question
Title: BLTouch Stopped Working
I was five hours into a six hour print and got a 28 mm X direction layer shift. No idea what caused it. I stopped the print cleaned the bed and (via Pronterface) went to home the bed (`G28`). The gantry homed X and Y and then I got the following message:
> Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use `M999` to restart. (Temperature is reset. \>Set it after restarting) \[ERROR\] Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use `M999` to restart. (Temperature is \>reset. Set it after restarting)
>
> Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999 \[ERROR\] Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with `M999`
Entering `M999` followed by `G28` just reproduced the error. I powered down and then checked the BLTouch connections. The white signal wire seemed a bit loose, so I tightened that. All other wires are secure. Powering back up, the BLTouch did not do its normal probe up and down routine. The main red light flickered for about three seconds, it then flashed 7 times and then came on fully. At the end of the flashing, the blue LED on the circuit board also came on. Testing, the black and white signal wires gave a reading of 0.975 kΩ.
I had homed and levelled the bed (`G28`, `G29`) then saved the data (`M500`) prior to starting to the six hour print print earlier with no problem.
* Printer: Hypercube Evolution (CoreXY) with KFB2.0 board running 24 V.
* Genuine Antclab BLTouch v1.0.
Anybody any idea what has happened?
# Answer
Turned out that the BL Touch had packed it in. Replaced with a new BL Touch v3.1 and everything works.
> 1 votes
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Tags: troubleshooting, bltouch
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thread-8193 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8193 | Clogging due to heat creep: buy new cooler or new hotend? | 2019-02-07T17:45:47.377 | # Question
Title: Clogging due to heat creep: buy new cooler or new hotend?
Sadly, I am not able to "repair" my 3D printer. Every time, I want to print something that takes a bit longer to print, the extrusion stops at some point during the print (the first few layers are great), no under-extrusion whatsoever before that critical point.
I already tried temperature variation (185-220 °C) with about 5 different brands of 1.75 mm PLA.
I tried printing without *any* retraction, but failed (I also experimented with flow rate a lot and calculated the perfect percentage etc.)
Everytime a print fails, it is a nightmare to remove the PLA filament from my Bowden tube (because it expanded near the nozzle and is stuck in the Bowden tube). I have to pull with so much force, that I already cut myself several times because I slipped off my pliers.
As I know for sure (I already wasted almost 1kg of PLA for my testing) the problem is heat creep = heat travelling from the heat block to the PLA above because the heat break or fan seem to be broken.
So my question is: "Will it be enough to buy a new cooling fan (as the standard fan doesnt seem to be powerful enough)?"
*I have to add that I already bought the original hotend long time ago and I tried printing with the "fan of the first hotend" and with the "fan of the second hotend" (the fan that blows air towards the cold end) so that might not be the problem.*
Or do I need a totally new hotend? (with heatbreak etc.)
My printer is a Creality CR 10, and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.
Or is it enough to buy a new heating block + heat break? (I don't know if the cooling fan is the problem or the heat break).
# Answer
To fight heat creep, you must understand why this is happening.
Heat creeps up the hotend assembly (into the cold end) as a result of incorrect settings or hardware setup causing the filament to prematurely soften and swell.
It is important to reduce the heat travelling upwards in the first place rather than fighting the result. Too high print temperatures are an obvious culprit, but also print speed and retraction length are important. These need to be dialed in in perfect harmony.
Even when you buy a complete new hotend or parts for the hotend, incorrect settings may lead to the same results. It is known that all-metal hotends (due to the lacking of a thermal barrier PTFE liner in the heat break shielding the filament of excessive heat input) are more susceptible to encounter heat creep and should generally be avoided by less experienced makers.
Whether or not you should buy new parts depends on the current extruder, your ability to fix it (and the willingness to put in more effort to try) and the knowledge to install new parts and find the correct settings for optimal printing. There is no unambiguous answer to this question.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I resorted to google to find a candidate image which might be similar to your hotend.
Now, it is safe to assume that a like-for-like replacement will not improve matters significantly. It is also a good assumption that the performance gap which you need to close is small. Presumably you know how much time you need to wait for the creep to manifest itself so are part way along to being able to perform some heat flow calculations.
The mass of the cold-end here is small, and there is maybe next to no additional metal on the cold side (compared with direct drive, where the servo acts as thermal damping).
You ought to be able to perform static testing - a thermocouple thermometer should be cheaper than running a spool of filament, and all you are interested in is the temperature rise at the hot side of the cold end after 'time to fail'. If you can achieve a halfing of this rise, you're on the way to achieving a 4x longer print run (or better). If you test with zero filament flow, you should see a worst-case result since there is no cold material flow into the cold end.
The one obvious improvement to make with the specimen above which I found on Amazon would be to duct the fan, so airflow is forced past the fins. A side benefit will be reduced cooling of the hotend.
A further improvement, if there are any metal parts in the carriage, would be to remove the anodizing and use thermal transfer grease to increase the effective heatsink size (assuming that the fan also provides airflow over this metalwork.
You might find a larger cold end heatsink (more air surface area over the fins), that might be a worthwhile improvement - but it depends on the mechanical constraints of your printer.
> 3 votes
# Answer
If it's a printer stock, no modifications, obviously you don't need to change the hot end, Creality did not release a printer without testing it. At least, no such extreme issues can be expected.
Check the fan power, wear, and settings.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Cooling the hot-end heat sink may be the key. My first step would be to try ducting so the all the air from the fan flows through the fins of the heatsink. To keep it easy and be a quick experiment, use cardboard (or business cards) and tape. Check the controls to be sure the fan is running at full power. You should feel air passing theough the fins. You can not cool it too much.
For cleaning out pla from tubes, nozzles, and hot ends, I use a hot-air heat gun.
> 0 votes
# Answer
There is a different, much simpler possible answer, that I see posted nowhere, and after changing many many things on my setup I have finally figured out....
Clean the built-up dust off your heatsink and fan.
Undo the 2 screws and clean the dust off.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I have a cheap Chinese all-metal CR-10 hotend. I used to have a lot of heat creep, but after I setup my only 30x30 mm fan as a part fan to be 100 % at all times to cool the heat sink and retract 10 cm of filament after finishing the print, the heat creep went away.
You can add this G-code after finishing the print to retract 10 cm of filament:`G1 E-100 F1200`, so it prevents the filament to cool down and expand inside the heat sink.
Another good way is setting up a fan to be up all the time to cool the heat sink. Since I don't have a heated bed and have a single fan, I've wired my fan to D8 pin (for RAMPS 1.6), then setup Marlin:
`#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFF` at `Configuration.h`
Make sure `src/pins/linux/pins_RAMPS_LINUX.h` has:
```
#elif ENABLED(IS_RAMPS_EFF) // Hotend, Fan, Fan
#define FAN_PIN RAMPS_D9_PIN
#define FAN1_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN
```
At `Configuration_adv.h`:
```
#define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN FAN1_PIN
...
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 50
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255 // 255 == full speed
#define CHAMBER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 30
#define CHAMBER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255
```
This means that your extruder 0 will have a fan connected at D8 pin running 100 % after it hits 50 °C all the time, thus helping with the heat creep issue.
> 0 votes
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Tags: hotend, heat-management, creality-cr-10, bowden
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thread-15074 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15074 | Why use G29 during a print? | 2020-12-21T15:32:43.473 | # Question
Title: Why use G29 during a print?
Why do printers, like the Ender 5 Plus, execute the G29 routine prior to every print? I understand the purpose of this step when MANUALLY leveling the bed since you are presented with the 16 measurements and can adjust the four corners of the bed. However, from what I can tell, there is no way any of the printers out there (Creality, and others) to actually level the bed. Since there are only TWO Z-axis motors... one on each SIDE of the bed... then, at most, the only thing the printer COULD do at this stage is to gradually TILT the bed from side to side to adjust the height of the left or right side.
Now, all of that aside, I guess, in theory, it WOULD be possible for the printer to use these 16 measurements to dynamically ADJUST the height DURING THE PRINT based on where the head is SUPPOSED to be versus where the ACTUAL height of that spot actually IS. However, I cannot find anything that claims this is what happens. From everything I find, the G29 routine is run and is done. This means you can only benefit from it during the manual leveling process.
Am I missing something?
# Answer
> 1 votes
> Now, all of that aside, I guess, in theory, it WOULD be possible for the printer to use these 16 measurements to dynamically ADJUST the height DURING THE PRINT based on where the head is SUPPOSED to be versus where the ACTUAL height of that spot actually IS. However, I cannot find anything that claims this is what happens
This is actually what happens. This behavior is clearly specified in the firmware documentation:
> Mesh leveling measures the height of the bed at several points to generate a 3D mesh representing bed imperfections. With compensation enabled, the nozzle follows the bed contours by dynamically adjusting the Z position (using bilinear interpolation between the measured points). The nozzle follows the contours of the bed more accurately with more mesh points and/or finer segmentation of moves.
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Tags: g-code, bltouch, creality-ender-5
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thread-14846 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14846 | Can 3D printer work with enamel paints (or paints generally)? Are such printers available? | 2020-11-20T11:50:47.697 | # Question
Title: Can 3D printer work with enamel paints (or paints generally)? Are such printers available?
There are lot of advices on the web how to paint the 3D printed objects, but generally they are advices for manual painting and this required special skills, especially if the object is small. My guess is that maybe 3D printer can lay the color layers as well? I am especially interested in the layering of enamel paints (which can be transparent and which can required high temperature heating afterwards). Medieval art has fine examples how detailed enamel art was created on the metal. Maybe something like this can be achieved with 3D printers as well?
If 3D priner with the paint-printing capability is not available generally then what are the prospects when such printer can be available? Maybe there are some early, experimental efforts to create such printer and maybe test devices are available?
# Answer
So, there's not really anything like a 3D painting machine/robot like I think you're looking for, but there are printers that do fine detail with actual paint, usually oils, but not on 3D materials.
I found a thread that talks about canvas printing about 8 years ago, along with a couple of videos that show current machines doing just that, but that's still not what I think you're looking for.
There are also CNC machines that print with enamel paints, but these are usually for 2D again, and not very precise, as they are used for lapel pins that have cavities to hole the paint while it dries. I'm sure something like this could be used without the cavities, but you'd have to do a lot of testing to make sure the paint stays put or mixes as you want it.
Just like the oil printers, these enamel printers are likely very large and costly.
## Alternatively
What might work for you is hydrodipping. There's a variety of methods to this, but one company has done a bunch of research on this and can do extremely accurate detail printing to "paint" 3D objects. The below video shows a variety of these hydrodipping techniques, but I've skipped to the most relevant part.
Here's the original video of what I think you're most interested in. It's not 3D printing in the way most of us think, but it's definitely a fantastic outcome.
To explain, if these videos are ever deleted: detailed prints are made of a 3D model to color it exactly the way it needs to be, sometimes using multiple steps and computer positioning to get the object colored/"painted" correctly and seamlessly. One part of the video shows how the software can accurately make straight lines on a human-contoured face mask, while another part shows how a blank, fully 3D cat model can have spots or stripes added in 3 steps with the seams being completely invisible as well as it detailed enough to be mistaken for a real housecat beyond first glance.
As it turns out, you can do (some of) this yourself. After doing some research, I've found that you can actually get blank (instead of pre-printed) films and use an off the shelf printer, as long as it meets certain requirements. (I'm not recommending a site, brand, or anything else, this is just the first/only option I can find. If you do more research, I'm sure there's more options out there.)
https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-film/
https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-water-transfer-printing-inkjet-printer-6-color-inks/
> 2 votes
# Answer
## Painting Prints
Yes, you can paint your models with enamel paints. Actually, most paints will work. You might need to roughen the surface with sandpaper a tiny bit. Note that some spray paints might contain solvents that might soften or melt the prints, so read your ingredients!
### ...not with vitreous enamel
However, you can't use proper enamel, as that needs to be sintered after the paints have dried, and that will destroy your print unless you have used a metal-printer.
## Printing Color
Now, if you want a printer to print a paste of vitreous enamel, you are looking for a **paste printer**. However, the paint for such a device needs to be very viscous, and the print quality (due to the large nozzle) will be far below what a skilled artisan can achieve. Also, you'd need one paste extruder per color.
## Foils?
One could possibly work with foils, cutting them on a plotter and then carefully transferring them to the printed object. This would allow much finer details than a paste printer currently is able to create. Such a foil can also be printed upon by special printers - possibly achieving the full spectrum in a single application step.
Alternatively, one would use a "puzzle" of smaller pieces and apply each piece separately. The result might actually be somewhat similar to the *Chromolith* (Colored Stone) stonewares that had been created by Villeroy & Boch starting 1876.
> 0 votes
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Tags: post-processing
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thread-15002 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15002 | Does the resin vary from a printer to another? | 2020-12-09T20:14:20.183 | # Question
Title: Does the resin vary from a printer to another?
I am using a clear resin to print parts using a Formlabs printer. At the moment, I am using the resin from Formlab which comes in a cartridge that fits in the printer. However, I would like to move to a cheaper option if available. I would like to able to refill the cartridges that I have rather than buying a new cartridge.
Is it possible to buy some clear resin from an outer source or would that damage the printer?
# Answer
> 2 votes
According to Formlabs (at least their FormLabs Form 2 and 3 models), their resin is 405 nm which is a fairly standard resin.
There's a wide variety of resins our there that are compatible with 405 nm, and many resin makers/resellers advertise what brand, make, and model of printer they are compatible with. I have an AnyCubic Photon v1 and it uses the same 405 nm resins. You might have to do some testing to see what specific brand or style works for you, including changing your settings (if possible in the software you use). FYI, I use a version of CHITUBOX which does allow settings for exposure time, raise height, pause time, and a few others.
Knowing that it uses 405 nm UV also allows you to know what kind of UV lights to get for easy indoor curing, too.
I'd like to say that it's not likely for these resins to damage the printer, but FormLabs seems to use a plastic tray, instead of the aluminum tray I'm used to so I don't know if there would be a chemical reaction, though I'm skeptical if there would be. I'm assuming it's using a similar FEP clear film for the bottom to the AnyCubic, but I can't confirm this, since the FormLabs film seems to be integral to the tray, rather than replaceable.
I can see why you are looking for other resin options. One place I saw online has a 1 L FormLabs cartridge for \\$150, when 500 mL on Amazon is usually between \\$20-30. I've seen special resin, such as flexible, as high as \\$60 for 500 mL and ABS-like resin for $40, though. Water washable resins seem to be in the \\$40-50 range. There's also "natural" or plant based resin for about the same price as regular resin, but might have a different reaction to your tank.
I'd assume that every brand of resin (except for the rebranded stuff) has their own chemical makeup besides the various types of resin, so you might have to some testing, although I realize that messing up a tank that's \\$150 to replace is not exactly something you want to do every day.
I can tell you that I've used at least 6 different brands of resin and they all react differently to the UV. I mostly have tested clear, and just that produces a variety of results, from how easy/hard it is to cure to what color it turns when it over cures. (I'm still trying to find a clear that fully cures actually clear.) Where I was going with this is that with all these resins I've used, I haven't had any that caused damage to the FEP film. Some have stuck really hard and I had to be really careful pulling it off. However, I've only had 1 film need to be replaced due to clouding, and I have 4 Photons and used all resins I've tested with all my machines.
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Tags: resin
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thread-15080 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15080 | Shell doesn't cover the entire inner wall at some areas | 2020-12-21T23:44:15.693 | # Question
Title: Shell doesn't cover the entire inner wall at some areas
How do I improve/increase shell coverage so that it covers the entire inner wall? I've experimented with shell settings, but I can't seem to get it right.
I'm using Creality Slicer 4.2.1 (Cura)
Picture showing the areas in question below:
# Answer
You should increase the top layer thickness according to Ultimaker Cura support:
> # Top/bottom thickness
>
> With the top/bottom thickness you can set the thickness of the solidly printed top and bottom layers of the print. A higher value ensures all gaps on the top and bottom layers are closed completely. However, this can also increase the print time and amount of filament used.
>
> It is advised to always use a multiple of the layer height for the thickness of the top and bottom. This means, for example, that with a layer height of 0.15 mm, it’s better to set the top/bottom thickness to 0.6 mm rather than 0.7 mm.
> 1 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-15089 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15089 | After installing BLTouch and Marlin, my nozzle is too high when trying to print | 2020-12-22T20:59:16.633 | # Question
Title: After installing BLTouch and Marlin, my nozzle is too high when trying to print
So I have an AnyCubic i3 Mega to which I added a BLTouch v3.1 and Marlin (1.1.9 due to older, Atmega 8-bit CPU) using instructions and such from this link.
Finally, I've got everything moving in the right direction, I got the auto-bed leveling (bilinear) going (did a 7x7 grid), saved the mesh, tuned the bed and extruder PIDs. Great! Add the G-code into Cura to load the settings and activate the mesh.
Start the printing, goes to home fine, gets up to temp, and then it moves into position to start the print and it suddenly jumps up in Z-height above the bed several millimeters. I pause the printing via OctoPrint, try and use the control tab to adjust the height, not responding. Canceled the print. Used the `M114` command to get the position.
Here it is after I hit cancel.
```
Recv: X:180.63 Y:171.85 Z:0.00 E:9.71 Count X:14450 Y:13748 Z:2120
```
Here it is after I use `G28` to home
```
Recv: X:-5.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:9.71 Count X:-400 Y:0 Z:0
```
Here is the Start G-code settings from Cura
```
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
M501 ; bltouch mesh load
M420 S1 ; bltouch mesh load
G1 Z15.0 F{speed_travel} ;move the platform down 15 mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3 mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{speed_travel}
G0 Y20 F{speed_travel}
M117 Printing...
G5
```
It's almost like the Mesh Z-offset is wrong. I do have a probe Z-offset of -4.60, set via `M851`. I set this, and then I did `G29` to re-do the ABL.
With me being new to ABL and Marlin, what did I forget? Maybe I did something wrong?
# Answer
> 1 votes
In some ways, this reminds me of the pain I went through recently. I am also fairly new to 3D printing.
After you have completed the bed levelling using `G29` you should have a list of mesh coordinates showing in the interface with OctoPrint. (I am using Pronterface, so am not all that familiar with OctoPrint). You need to save the mesh coordinates to the control board. To do this enter `M500` and then `M503` to check that the data has saved. If you enter `G28` (don't use the digit after the axis!) after using `G29`, but without saving (`M500`) the coordinates will be discarded.
When you have set your Z-offset, you also need to save that too (`M500`).
Unless you bed is warped, a 7 x 7 grid (mesh) is overkill. If you are printing on glass or a mirror, a 3 x 3 grid should be enough. I have a 5 x 5 due to may warped bed.
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling, bltouch
--- |
thread-10161 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10161 | PTFE detoriation temperature | 2019-06-03T10:52:33.603 | # Question
Title: PTFE detoriation temperature
I read that PTFE starts to deteriorate past 260 °C. Does that mean heating to 250 °C is no problem at all, or will that destroy the PTFE material over time to?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Degradation starts at 260 °C and shifts towards full blown decomposition towards 350 °C. 250 °C is technically fine, but you should keep in mind that you've got little to no wiggle room for error at that temperature. Your thermistor and board may not be accurate enough to guarantee you'll never overshoot that temperature, and the way 3D printers often handle temperature adjustment exacerbates that risk. You **can** print at 250 °C, just be aware you've got basically no margin for error.
# Answer
> 0 votes
High temperature rated PTFE tape is rated for up to 288°C (550°F).
---
Tags: ptfe-tube
--- |
thread-15097 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15097 | Can I use Creality bed on Prusa MK3S? | 2020-12-23T21:09:16.677 | # Question
Title: Can I use Creality bed on Prusa MK3S?
I need a Prusa MK3S smooth bed and I am not able to get it unless I wait for a few month.
But I can have a `Heated Bed Cover for Ender 3/Ender 3 pro/Ender 5 3D Printer 235X235MM` shipped to my door tomorrow moring.
Can I use the above Creality bed on MK3S untill I get an original MK3S in a few month?
# Answer
> 1 votes
# Heaters won't match.
The ender3 is a 24 V machine. The Prusa 3 is a 12 V machine. Heater cartridges and Heatbeds are therefore not interchangeable.
# Build surfaces can be adapted.
The Ender3 has a build surface that is a little bigger than the Prusa3, and thus you can, in a pinch, use an ender3 sized build surface and install it, possibly cut down, to fit onto the Prusa.
---
Tags: prusa-i3
--- |
thread-15101 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15101 | What technics are you using to seal between the throat tube and nozzle? | 2020-12-24T13:18:42.023 | # Question
Title: What technics are you using to seal between the throat tube and nozzle?
Thinking this over, the best place to seal the hotend is between the throat tube and nozzle. What are the advantages/disadvantages of an integrated nozzle and throat to make this seal? Does a throat with a Teflon tube improve this seal? Is it reasonable to cut a gasket out of 3mm ID 5mm OD Teflon tubing to make the seal for M6 thread parts? I intend these questions to all address the main question to prevent a leaky hot end.
# Answer
> 2 votes
A seal between the heat break and nozzle should be achieved by tightening them while the hotend is hot. After assembling the (cold) hotend, heat it up to somewhat above the highest temperature you will print at and then tighten the nozzle some more. When it cools down again, you will have a very tight seal. If the nozzle still leaks after this tightening then it is defective.
Using teflon is possible but will limit the maximum temperature you can use your hotend at safely and you won't be able to print some higher temperature materials.
---
Tags: troubleshooting, hotend
--- |
thread-15087 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15087 | How to move Z up after printing in Cura? | 2020-12-22T19:24:37.510 | # Question
Title: How to move Z up after printing in Cura?
Simple question, I want to move my printer head up when the print finishes instead of to the side. Where's the option to do this in Cura?
# Answer
Go towards the right top corner. Click on the printer name. From the drop down, select, "Manage printers". You will get a dialogue box in the middle of your screen. Your current printer's name will be shown in italics. On the right side of the dialogue box, click on, "Machine settings". This will open another dialogue box. In the lower left, you will see a text box with the heading, "End G-Code" scroll down to where you see the line, "`G1 X0 Y0`". This is the line that moves your print head to the lower left corner. `G1` is the command for a linear move. `X0` and `Y0` are move instructions to move the the 0 coordinate for the two axes. Change this line to `G1 Znn` where "nn" is the number of the coordinate you wish to move to. Close this dialogue, close the previous dialogue and all newly sliced file will now use this code.
If like to keep track of any changes you make, you can put a semi-colon at the beginning of the line. This turns the line into a comment and will not be actioned. Then press enter and on a new line, put the line, `G1 znn`.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-15105 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15105 | Ender 3 Pro not interpreting G-code correctly? | 2020-12-24T21:21:37.837 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro not interpreting G-code correctly?
I have an Ender 3 Pro and I have been able to get it to work quite well, I installed a 0.8 mm nozzle to try the Vase mode in Cura. I re-leveled the bed and when I tried to print, I got some very strange behavior.
When it starts the "purge line" along the side of the bed, the Z-axis is too high and instead of going down the left side and back up, it will go down the left side and then from left to right along the back edge and then stop and then just extrude filament. If I look at the beginning portion of the G-code it doesn't look any different than the G-Code for the other models I have printed except for in the initialization script it set the Layer height and Min Z to 0.32 instead of 0.2 and the code for drawing the first 2 purge lines is identical. I tried printing an older file that worked correctly and I got the same results where it went along the left side then along the back side and stopped and just extruded filament.
It seems like something in the printer went wonky? What would cause this and what is the fix? A reset of some sort? And how is that accomplished?
# Answer
It ended up being something with the printer, I powered it down, let it set a few minutes and then powered it up and it printed correctly. Is there a way to "reset" it without the power cycle, and is this something common? Thanks for the response!
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, g-code
--- |
thread-15115 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15115 | Ender 3 Pro + SKR mini E3 1.2 + BLtouch doesn't work with downloaded bin file | 2020-12-27T00:28:03.417 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro + SKR mini E3 1.2 + BLtouch doesn't work with downloaded bin file
I have a Ender 3 Pro V1. I installed the Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 V1.2 + TFT35 touchscreen + Antclabs BLTouch + a pre compiled bin from here .
* the board works
* the screen works
* the BLTouch is erratic
+ A) it tries to exceed the X limits and makes the loud clicking sound while performing the bed leveling. it even tries to move past the X end stop switch.
+ B) when printing, it moves to the far right rear corner and extrudes off of the bed.
+ C) OctoPrint can no longer connect with the printer.
I think this is just a problem with how the bed size is setup and it identifying the limits of the print. I just can't figure out how to configure and compile a working bin file.
# Answer
> A) it tries to exceed the X limits and makes the loud clicking sound while performing the bed leveling. it even tries to move past the X end stop switch.
This tells me that the firmware you use is faulty - it has a faulty bed-size or home.
> B)when printing, it moves to the far right rear corner and extrudes off of the bed.
This can be intended in the G-code, or bad homing, again, firmware home position.
> C) octoprint can no longer connect with the printer.
This, **again** is a thing that happens if the firmware is not configured properly or flashed correctly.
You might have accidentally chosen the wrong firmware distribution - your config points to the Ender 3 - SKR Mini E3 v1.2 - BLTouch, **not** the Ender 3 v1.5 or v2 (slightly different hardware), and possibly adjust the proper homing position.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bltouch, bigtreetech
--- |
thread-15118 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15118 | Are control boards switchable? | 2020-12-27T02:36:01.657 | # Question
Title: Are control boards switchable?
I am interested in buying a larger printer, either a Sovol SV01 or a Sunlu S8 (or something else similar).
What I am wondering is, can the control boards and LCD displays be changed to better units later on?
How much are parts interchangeable?
Can the frame, steppers, extruder, base-heater and power supply be run with any control board which has enough outputs? How does this work?
I'm particularly interested in adding silent stepper drivers and BLTouch later on, neither of these units are very popular so not a lot of after market parts are out which list compatibility.
# Answer
Yes. Stepper motors, heaters, temperature sensors, fans, etc... are all standard parts. Pretty much any control board can be used with the hardware from pretty much every printer.
Some more expensive printers might use more exotic parts (especially temperature sensors), but on the budget printers you're looking at I would be very surprised to find anything non-standard.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: extruder, stepper-driver, hardware, full-graphic-smart-controller
--- |
thread-15120 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15120 | Layer bending with first layer not sticking | 2020-12-27T12:39:38.463 | # Question
Title: Layer bending with first layer not sticking
I'm pretty new to 3D printing, so I'm looking for some tips with following problem I have. I'm trying to print following model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4671256 on my Ender 3 v2.
But as soon as the print reaches the body and the first layer parts are attached, the print comes loose from the bed and the print will be dragged by the nozzle. If you look at the picture you can see the bending of the front paws of the sculpture. So they don't stay sticked onto the bed.
I have changed the model to be 80 % in size, but also upped the bed temperature from 50 to 75 °C. Running at 50 °C was even worse...
My printed 20x20x20 mm test cube was flawless by the way.
# Answer
Try a Brim (the model is rather tricky on FDM), which can help with bad adhesion. Your first laser appears coarse and not "smooched" as it should. This hints that you leveled either high, or you hit the portal off-angle. If it is just high leveling, a tiny turn "up" can help a lot.
The model has some rather flat overhangs, like the mouth, chin, under the tails and lower body. I suggest printing that with support turned on.
For PLA Filament, I use 200°C nozzle with 60°C bed, so unless you go far beyond that, your print should work.
Last words: that the model you chose was made with resin printing in mind, so you will use some details.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, adhesion
--- |
thread-15122 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15122 | Eryone Thinker SE ignoring endstop, gantry only moves down | 2020-12-27T16:00:35.743 | # Question
Title: Eryone Thinker SE ignoring endstop, gantry only moves down
I just got a Eryone Thinker SE and went through a lot of trouble to get it even working.
My first major problem was it would keep trying to ignore the Z endstop switch and go lower than it should be. I managed to fix it by doing a firmware update to it, and after a lot of trouble with getting the right temperature I started printing a test cube. I left it to print checking up on it every 30 minutes or so and near the finishing of the cube I came back to a screen saying something like "power failure, resume print", so of course I choose resume print but what it ended up doing was moving down, piercing the block on the print bed and then dragging it with it as it decided to home itself. So I immediately hit the reset button do it didn't try to push the block into the print bed.
But now when I auto home the printer, it jabs the print nozzle into the print bed, and it ignores the Z-axis endstop switch causing the right side of the gantry to go lower (due to there being no stopper on the right). Auto leveling just makes the gantry go down even further on the right still ignoring the endstop switch. The other thing is when trying to manually move the Z-axis, instead of going up (even though the LCD shows a positive number) it tries to go down.
Steps I attempted to do to fix it:
1. I attempted to do another firmware update, but to no avail this time.
2. I checked all the connections and re-seated them.
3. Scout the internet hoping someone with the same printer or board has had the same problem, to no avail again.
I should note when homing the printer, the normal action for it is to home X then Y, then Z. When homing Z however, NORMALLY, it will hit the switch move up and baby step itself to hit the switch and stop immediately when it touches it. But now, it will hit the switch, then just go down even more.
Video of what is happening here (Google Drive)
The control board on the printer is a Eryone 2560
# Answer
> 1 votes
You do a critical error in your order of operations: you home. Then you home again.
However, the firmware does *not* check if the switch is already depressed, it waits for a signal to cut out. But the signal is already not there. And as you will notice, it moves into X+ and Y+ before rehoming into 0, but does not do so in Z.
To prevent that behavior, you need to move the printer up a little till the switch no longer is engaged, then it will properly home the position.
The proper fix would be to alter the home-Z behavior to include a movement upwards by 2 mm before starting the actual homing. This does require a knowledge of Marlin though.
---
Tags: bed-leveling, firmware, stepper-driver, stepper
--- |
thread-15124 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15124 | Issues with my print | 2020-12-27T17:16:29.543 | # Question
Title: Issues with my print
I am currently making an ironman helmet but running into a couple problems.
Whenever I start my print it starts off fine, but then after it builds the bottom support and starts on the build itself things get really wonky. It seems that the build gradually builds away from the support and starts to float in the air.
I also see an issue where the model starts to curve and the filament isn't sticking to the support instead it makes a straight line through the curve.
Lastly the support column on the bottom left starts to clump up.
I am using an Ender 3 printer and Cura.
# Answer
You are experiencing layer shifting, please check the tension of the X-axis belt, driver current.
---
*A more elaborated answer is found here.*
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3, print-failure
--- |
thread-13270 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13270 | Why are my layers messy and curling off the print bed? | 2020-03-29T10:39:08.167 | # Question
Title: Why are my layers messy and curling off the print bed?
I use an Ender 3, with cheap Amazon "Eryone PLA", which states a range from 190-220 °C, 1.75 mm dia. I have had this for about a year.
I use the rough build plate, not the glass. I have tried my best to level the bed but I am an amateur
I was originally getting poor adhesion so I cleaned the bed, levelled it, increased filament temp to 196 °C and heated the bed to 40 °C, with no fans in a house around 20 °C with not much airflow.
This helped adhesion, but my layers are very messy - the first perimeter may adhere correctly, but subsequent layers curl off, meaning the inner passes lift off the build plate. Attempting to persevere, pulling out these regions causes the blobby, ridged mess shown below. This is still the first layer.
I have noticed the extruder makes a knocking noise every so often, and the edges of prints can be so thin they are translucent.
I've browsed the web for common 3D printing errors but nothing I've found or tried has helped.
# Answer
> 3 votes
This is clearly overextrusion relative to the volume the material is being deposited into, but that doesn't necessarily mean your extrusion rate is wrong. It could be:
* Nozzle smashed down into the bed (bed way too high) but somehow still extruding
* Problem in Z axis movement preventing the head from moving up the right amount for each layer (possibly not moving up at all?)
* Extrusion (flow) increased significantly above 100% in slicer
* Wrong extruder steps/mm setting (usually controlled on printer not slicer, though you can send a setting in the start gcode)
* Misconfigued filament diameter (unlikely since there's no common setting smaller than 1.75 mm; larger setting would under-extrude)
# Answer
> 2 votes
I'd add to R..'s answer: It could be:
* temperature is too high - which would cause the melted filament to flow a bit freely
# Answer
> 1 votes
Bad filament is my answer. I bought PRLine and both print terrible like your picture. Suspect 2 factors, one is that the line is less than 1.75, so they underextrude and so you see those lines and in some cases gaps, second is the material itself is slippery suggesting to me that it has florinated additives.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I just recently got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 v2) and am also using the Eryone PLA filament. After the first week, I was having bed adhesion problems as well. I think part of the problem is the bedsprings become loose rather quickly.
Here is my current solution, leveling the bed with a receipt paper (thinner than regular 20lb bond paper) and using blue painter's tape on the stock glass bed.
Since using this setup, I have not had any major issues with my prints. I have ordered new bedsprings (Ogrimmar Yellow Springs) and hope these will be a more lasting solution to the loose bedsprings.
---
Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3, troubleshooting
--- |
thread-15116 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15116 | Marlin: Switch Y to E1 | 2020-12-27T00:35:40.840 | # Question
Title: Marlin: Switch Y to E1
I have an Anycubic Kossel with Trigorilla Motherboard, Mega2560+RAMPS1.4.
I'm using Marlin 2\_0\_bugfix
My Y connector is not working anymore so I would like to use E1 connector as Y. I found a very good solution here but for me for some reason it's not working.
I did that modification what suggested in the pins\_RAMPS.h file (for Y of course instead of X), then I compiled it with Arduino 1.8.13 and uploaded to my printer.
After that I flashed firmware then Y (which I plugged to E1) is not moving anywhere. I have never plugged anything to E1 before, so I think the connector port must be good and working.
What I am missing, what's my mistake?
What I did:
```
#define Y_STEP_PIN 36
#define Y_DIR_PIN 34
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN 30
#ifndef Y_CS_PIN
#define Y_CS_PIN 44
#endif
#define E1_STEP_PIN 60
#define E1_DIR_PIN 61
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 56
#ifndef E1_CS_PIN
#define E1_CS_PIN 49
#endif
```
# Answer
> 0 votes
If you followed the answer to switch steppers in firmware to the letter, but changing X for Y, this should work.
I've looked into the pins files for you and concluded that your proposed changes should work.
This leaves you with the following questions:
* Is the stepper driver for E1 working?
* Is there a stepper driver installed?
* Is the cable working/not damaged?
Swap drivers and cables to troubleshoot the problem.
---
Tags: marlin, stepper-driver, arduino-mega-2650, kossel
--- |
thread-15143 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15143 | What is the correct Marlin firmware setting for Tevo Tarantula with MKS Base V1.2 board | 2020-12-29T13:19:13.127 | # Question
Title: What is the correct Marlin firmware setting for Tevo Tarantula with MKS Base V1.2 board
I am trying to correct the x&y offsets in the Tevo Tarantula that I got from a friend in order that my printer is not printing over the end. What I got so far is that I need to measure and then enter the offsets into my configuration.h file, build the firmware and flash it to the board.
Because I do not have and can not find the original firmware I found the repository from Jim Brown for the Tarantula.
Looking into the top section of the config file provided by the repo, the board configured is
```
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_13 // Original controller board with built in stepper drivers. Works with MKS BASE 1.3, 1.4
```
However since the board in my Tarantula has 1.2 on it I checked the boards.h file for MKS but could not find the v1.2 :
```
#define BOARD_MKS_BASE 40 // MKS BASE v1.0
#define BOARD_MKS_BASE_15 405 // MKS v1.5 with Allegro A4982 stepper drivers
#define BOARD_MKS_BASE_HEROIC 41 // MKS BASE 1.0 with Heroic HR4982 stepper drivers
#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_13 47 // MKS GEN v1.3 or 1.4
#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_L 53 // MKS GEN L
#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_L_V2 54 // MKS GEN L V2
#define BOARD_ZRIB_V20 504 // zrib V2.0 control b
```
Any idea, what board configuration would be compatible for 1.2? Or is there any other way to correct the x&y offsets other then compiling them into the firmware?
# Answer
The MKS Base v1.2 is basically an Arduino MEGA2560 and a RAMPS1.4 on a single board.
You can use the RAMPS pin designation.
Note that the endstop to origin distances is explained in question How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset).
In Jims Marlin fork you can find this at:
```
#define X_MIN_POS 0 - XTRA_BED_LEFT
```
and
```
#define Y_MIN_POS 0 - XTRA_BED_BACK
```
Unfortunately, `XTRA_BED_LEFT` and `XTRA_BED_BACK` are defined as zero; this implies that the endstops define the origin (not likely) or it is left as an excercise for you to find out. This answer explains how you figure that out.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, tevo-tarantula, print-axis-offset
--- |
thread-15140 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15140 | Bed leveling problem | 2020-12-29T04:54:09.100 | # Question
Title: Bed leveling problem
My start G-code:
```
M92 E128 ; Set E steps to 124 DEFAULT 130
M500 ; Store Settings
G28 X0 Y0 Z0; home all axes
G92 X-3.0 Y-12.0 Z-1.599; set home offsets
G1 X0 Y0 Z0.2 F3000 ; get ready to prime
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 X160 E15 F600 ; prime nozzle
G1 X180 F5000 ; quick wipe
```
Is used on a Creality CR 10 S5 with upgrades:
* whambam systems print bed
* micro swiss direct drive print head
* BLTouch (doesn't function correctly)
1. Auto home (nozzle is off the bed and too low, Z -3.99)
2. (When printing Start I used G92 X-3.0 Y-12.0 Z-1.599; to correct this in Cura 4.8
3. Raise the Z axis to 2.8
4. Did 4 corners and adjusted the screws at each corner
5. Everything is supposedly level at 2.8
Nope its not.
It is not level and the 3D print isn't right.
After months of messing with the screws I decided to get a BLTouch because everyone seems to do that. I got it almost right but clearly in parts the nozzle is too close and generates small lumps or too high and gets stringy. The instructions have a broken download link.
So I finally get my BLTouch. (x2)
Attaching it wasn't a problem, but nightmares with the firmware.
So I had a 1.1.6 I got from the Creality web site and uploaded.
All the cables attached correctly, including disconnecting the Z axis limit switch and attachment of the BLTouch. Calibrated the BLTouch height screw.
Fire it up, and try to level it.
* Goes to the center
* Spins the Z axis downwards and never stops
Next up, reconnected the Z axis limit switch and not connect that part of the BLTouch.
* This time it seems to level it, but via limit switch and not bed level.
At least I get numbers indicating some kind of level starting at the far right 4.96 with a high of 5.15 on the left front corner. However, the limit switch triggers at -3.99 so actually the numbers should probably be lower.
Downloaded a new firmware, trying to level, Z axis motor spins upwards out of control
Download a different firmware, Similar to the 2nd last attempt, accept it forgot how to print correctly and only uses 250-500 on both the X and Y axis. Also I don't think its printing what I wanted, It isn't the correct shape at all.
I tried 2 different BLTouch sensors. Both had same results.
Any ideas about getting a good firmware?
Any ideas how to get BLTouch working correctly so I can level it that way?
Until it triggers the Z axis at bed level it probably won't work correctly.
---
I figured out later that the black and white wires needed to be reversed. So the bed leveling system is working, apart from the fact it isn't yet level.
However, the BLTouch firmware is mucking this up. It only wants to print from X, Y 250 to 500. So 75 % is unusable.
How do I fix this. I spent hours tweaking the screws and still don't have great results.
# Answer
To address the firmware problems, Download a fresh edition of Marlin 2.0.x and configure the Configuration.h and Configuration\_adv.h yourself. Others' configurations are expecting fully stock parts, and will not be compatible with your system.
Your main problem seems to be in your Probe Z-Offset. To get good level, you need to calculate how far above the bed the nozzle is when the probe triggers. The BLTouch height screw is *NOT* for Z offset adjustment, and the Z-offset needs to be set with M851 in Marlin. See https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html for more detail on how to do this.
Additionally, the Z-MIN switch should not be connected when using the BLTouch, as it IS the new Z-MIN sensor.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, bed-leveling, creality-cr-10, bltouch
--- |
thread-13880 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13880 | Installed bed leveling probe, now Z homing moves to center | 2020-06-14T15:26:02.713 | # Question
Title: Installed bed leveling probe, now Z homing moves to center
I installed a BLTouch bed leveling probe on my printer which uses Marlin 2.0.5.3.
Now the printer seems to be of two minds when it comes to finding the origin. Homing XY moves to the lower left as it always has, but homing Z moves not only to Z=0, but also to the center of the build plate. The printer knows this is (100,100,0) and is not mistakenly thinking it is (0,0,0).
This causes some issues such as now the nozzle wipe at the beginning of a print happens right in the center of where the print is supposed to be.
Is this expected behavior?
# Answer
> 5 votes
This is a consequence of enabling `Z_SAFE_HOMING`:
> Z Safe Homing prevents Z from homing when the probe (or nozzle) is outside bed area by moving to a defined XY point (by default, the middle of the bed) before Z Homing when homing all axes with `G28`. As a side-effect, X and Y homing are required before Z homing. If stepper drivers time out, X and Y homing will be required again.
>
> Enable this option if a probe (not an endstop) is being used for Z homing. Z Safe Homing isn’t needed if a Z endstop is used for homing, but it may also be enabled just to have XY always move to some custom position after homing.
My default Cura start G-code contained this sequence:
```
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
```
I changed this to
```
G28 ;safe homing
G90 ;absolute positioning
G0 X0 Y0 ; move to bottom-left corner for nozzle wipe
```
However any oozing will still happen at the center of the build plate, which is a problem.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I had the same problem, solved it by inserting
```
// Move X and Y to 0 after homing
process_subcommands_now_P("G1 X0 Y0 F5000");
```
at the end of `G28.cpp`, just before `ui.refresh();`
This moves the print head to X0, Y0 and leaves Z untouched after the homing procedure. This way any oozing that might happen while the extruder heats up will be outside of the bed.
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling, homing
--- |
thread-13339 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13339 | Ender 5 Pro print quality issue | 2020-04-04T15:18:31.433 | # Question
Title: Ender 5 Pro print quality issue
I got my 3D printer from Creality 1 day ago. My dog off the SD card came perfectly, Benchy was also printed almost flawlessly. I used standard Benchy settings on all my prints.
Now I tried making a mask and it failed mid-print. When I saw it failing I stopped the print.
What do you guys think is the cause of this?
I printed with the following settings:
* I use PLA 50 °C bed and 200 °C hot end
* Resolution: 0.20 mm
* Infill: 20 %
* 3 walls with a line width of 0.4 mm each
* 50 mm/s first time i printed it and 40 mm/s second time.
* Combing OFF
* Retraction enabled
* Retraction distance:6 mm
* 25 mm/s all retraction speeds
* retraction extra prime amount 0
* retraction minimum travel 1.5
* maximum retraction count 100
---
I printed the mask again. this time I changed Z Seam alignment in Cura from user specified to random. It improved it a bit but it was not a successful print.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I was told to not even bother using the white filament which came with the Ender 5 as it was very low quality. I used an orange filament from Hatchbox and, once I have learned to adjust my settings (I found it works better at 210-215 °C), it seems to be great.
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Tags: print-quality, extrusion, underextrusion, creality-ender-5
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thread-11090 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11090 | Does right handed radial fan exist? | 2019-09-27T05:21:11.190 | # Question
Title: Does right handed radial fan exist?
I have mounted two radial fan on my printer as a part cooling solution.
As you can see, the fan has input on the left side and blows air down. Does a mirror construction exists? With outlet on the right.
I can even print my own casing, but I'm not sure if the fan will work, if I change the rotation direction.
I'm using this print cooling fan duct: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1850163
The fan on the right side has the opening facing the hotend, and there is not much space, so the impeller can catch on wiring etc. If the right fan had opening to the right, there would be no such problem.
# Answer
Yes these do exist, but I've never seen them in the size you are interested in, see e.g. these projector fans:
An alternative are fans that attract flow from both sides, like:
but I've not seen them in the small size you are interested in.
Considering the placement of the fans in the printed cooling duct you posted, I see no problem in using 2 similar fans. There is enough free space to suck in air and if you are afraid that the wires are caught by the impeller, you need to properly fasten the wires, ty wraps work wonderfully in securing cables. If I'm not mistaken, you could even use the holes in the fans to secure the cables or otherwise design and print a small bracket for attaching the ty wraps.
> 4 votes
# Answer
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/120mm-Small-Squirrel-Cage-Exhaust-Plastic\_653850349.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.14.23834341IiKFAu&s=p
After quite a bit of searching the above link from Alibaba was all I could find. I suspect that they don't make them like that because of the direction of the rotation of the blades. Perhaps they are made so that the rotor can be swapped around if necessary. (https://i1.wp.com/www.homeintheearth.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/CentrifugalFanTypes.jpg) The different curving of the blades affects either the volume or the pressure of the airflow (or both).
Alternatively how about one that is more agnostic: https://www.amazon.com/2Packs-Wathai-40x40x10mm-Brushless-Centrifugal/dp/B07RNZF97F/
Or just 3d print your own housing!
> 4 votes
# Answer
I did also some research on this and decided to go with this solution. This fan only measures 50x50x10mm and is easy flippable: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001894771961.html
Another option was this: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4001185014078.html
Also found a Thingi, where people tried to flip the existing 5015 blower fans. It seems very difficult, since you have to print the fins in flipped direction and they tend to break.. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3716277
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-fan
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thread-13849 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13849 | How can I contact FLSUN support? | 2020-06-11T03:37:59.430 | # Question
Title: How can I contact FLSUN support?
If I have an issue with my FLSUN printer how can I contact customer support?
# Answer
They have a webpage by now www.flsun3d.com
> 5 votes
# Answer
I have had good luck contacting them via AliExpress https://flsun.aliexpress.com/store/2383013 even though I bought my printer on Amazon.
> 2 votes
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Tags: flsun
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thread-15173 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15173 | Incorrect inner dimensions of 3D prints with Ender 3 | 2021-01-01T14:06:04.993 | # Question
Title: Incorrect inner dimensions of 3D prints with Ender 3
I have problem with my Ender 3. Whenever I print, I have proper outer dimensions (accuracy usually better than 0.1 mm, sometimes a bit worse), but every hole, pit or any inside dimension is inaccurate (0.6 - 0.8 mm never less or more).
I have tried extruder calibration. Calibrated extruder voltage and e-steps (in Ender firmware), but this does not change a lot.
Here you can see test dimensions I modeled:
And it will come out with these dimensions:
Aaand the final print looks like this:
As you can see, my estimation (second picture) was almost perfect. 19.3 mm and results are weirdly consistent. Always holes are 0.6 - 0.8 mm smaller than holes in model.
Do you have idea why this is happening?
Specs:
* Printer - Ender 3 with original circuit board
* Printer software - Marlin 2.0.5
* Model cutting software - Cura 4.8.0
* Modelling software - Fusion 360
# Answer
There are 3 effects at work, and you misread your micrometer: the measurement is 19.35 in the picture.
# You have a little lip
There's a little lip at the top and bottom of the print. You'd need to clean that up with a sharp knife or sandpaper. That is the biggest part of the error you measure.
# Movement errors accumulate
Errors also collect on the center of holes due to the order in which walls are usually placed, resulting in outer walls having the correct diameters but inner holes having a small offset.
# Plastic shrinks when it cools
A smaller part of the error is the plastic shrinking as it cools, but that can be compensated for by the slicer - if your printer allows for it: Under Materials, there is a `Shrinkage Ratio` setting.
# There's compensation for that in Cura
The option is under Shell and called Hole Horizontal Expansion. Setting that value to 0.6 mm to 0.7 mm should solve the hole sizing error.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, calibration, extrusion, dimensional-accuracy
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thread-15177 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15177 | Looking for this stl design for a cellphone clamp | 2021-01-02T00:02:00.683 | # Question
Title: Looking for this stl design for a cellphone clamp
I've searched, and surprisingly I am not able to find this design on Thingiverse:
Where can I find this 3d model?
# Answer
This file simply is not on Thingiverse. Not all files are on Thingiverse.
A Google reverse-image-search for that picture in all size told me that the image stems from an all3dp article, and they have a reference link to Pinshape as it is presented here:
The file name of the linked picture is `universal-phone-tripod-mount-3d-printing-155113.jpg`
Taking that as a search term lead me to pinshape model 37196: 3d printed universal phone-tripod mount by jakejake
> 3 votes
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Tags: stl, part-identification
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thread-15180 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15180 | Ender 3 Bowden tube popping off | 2021-01-02T00:50:37.960 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Bowden tube popping off
I keep having a recurring problem with my ender 3 pro. The bowden tube keeps popping off here (pictured)
I've read elsewhere online where people are having a similar problem, i.e. the ptfe tube is actually popping out, but I don't know if thats the case here. It's staying attached to the metal coupler, but that metal coupler is unscrewing during the course of the print and falling out. Any tips to fix it? New one? Some sort of loc-tite to get it to not unscrew? Any ideas?
# Answer
The fitting can be defective and no longer hold upon the PTFE tube anymore. In that case, you need to cut off a short piece of the tube and most likely replace the fitting.
If the metal coupler *unscrews* you can fix that by properly screwing it *tight*. If it does not stay put after applying some torque upon it, then the screw thread is broken, and the whole extruder gearing-setup needs to be replaced. An aluminium swap part costs about 10 to 15 €.
> 2 votes
# Answer
If the fitting is remaining attached to the PTFE tubing, that would indicate that the threaded end of the fitting is pulling out of the drive assembly. This implies that the internal threads of the drive assembly have stripped out. This is not unusual for a plastic drive assembly.
The best solution is to replace the drive assembly. I believe I paid about US$12 for the last one I purchased and it was aluminum, not plastic. A quick search for "Ender 3 drive mechanism" returned a number of choices. One of them from Amazon (14.98) is anodized aluminum and purports to be improved over the original.
A less than ideal solution would involve drilling out the stripped threads and installing an insert (sometimes called a Heli-coil™) but that could be as expensive as a replacement mechanism.
> 3 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3
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thread-14138 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14138 | How can I make bed leveling improvements in the middle of my Ender 3 V2 bed? | 2020-07-25T15:02:09.540 | # Question
Title: How can I make bed leveling improvements in the middle of my Ender 3 V2 bed?
Got my Ender 3 v2 and stack with the bed leveling.
Used default settings, Creality slicer 4.2, test PLA from the kit and print model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013319 (4 squares in each corner and 1 in the middle), nozzle 200 °C, bed 60 °C.
After some adjustments, I have good solid pieces on the bed corners but the center one has small gaps. Is it possible to fix this problem?
Corner pice:
Center piece:
# Answer
> 2 votes
The gaps are, because the nozzle is to far from the bed at this point. It may sound like a big deal, but actually this is not leveling alone, but it looks like the bed is not a perfect plane/perfectly flat. This is normal, my ikea mirror and my stock bed show the same thing. Now here's one solution:
Print calibration stickers, like you already did on various places around the bed to get a feel, where it is too low. Let it cool and put painters tape (the very very thin tape, that should not burn) on areas, where the bed is too low. Print more calibration rectangles and check if you have enough. Repeat until you cannot see a difference.
It took me about 2h to level everything absolutely perfectly. This was 2 years ago and I didn't have to touch the tape below my bed ever since. It just works.
Alternative solutions involve mesh bed leveling and buying a new bed surface or even the surface below the bed. However, I found that to neither of them work reliably, whereas the simple tuning does what it's supposed to.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I had exact same issues with my Ender 3 v2. Using the stock default glass the middle would be too far out and I was never able to level it just right - no matter what I did - I could have stayed on it for hours.
In matter of fact, it wasn't just the middle, it was the middle between each of the corner points as well, meaning, imagine a plus sign going across from the dead middle of the bed vertically and horizontally, where all that area would be a little too far out.
I did anything I could, eventually what solved it for me was tightening all of the frame once again, making sure the x-axis gantry doesn't wobble, the hotend doesn't wobble and then realign the gantry nuts below the bed, to help with this alignment I actually tilted the whole printer 90° so gravity will help the wheels get the right alignment.
The issues such as you are describing were gone after complete overhaul tightening as mentioned above.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, pla, bed-leveling
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thread-15162 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15162 | No movement on any axis on Ender 3 Pro | 2020-12-31T05:12:19.470 | # Question
Title: No movement on any axis on Ender 3 Pro
I've printed the dog that came on the SD card of my new Ender 3 pro, and everything worked great. Today, I turned on the unit and plugged in a Raspberry PI Zero to the Ender's USB port. The rPi is running the latest version of OctoPrint.
Now, when I try to Auto home, I hear a very brief sound of a motor staring to move on an axis, and then the Ender halts. I've power cycled it several times. When I trying to use the panel on the Ender to move on any axis the same thing happens: it sounds like it's starting to move, and then never actually tries to move again until after I power cycle. This is the same no mater which axis I try to move.
I've reinstalled the lated firmware on the Ender. I've opened up the machine to make sure that all of the cables are attaches to the motherboard. I've checked the actuation of the stopper switches and unplugged the switch and motor connectors.
# Answer
I upgraded to the latest firmware, and now everything works again.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting
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thread-15169 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15169 | Turn off OctoPrint server after starting print from SD card | 2021-01-01T04:04:24.237 | # Question
Title: Turn off OctoPrint server after starting print from SD card
I have OctoPrint set up on a Raspberry Pi (OctoPi). I have loaded a number of G-code files to the SD card on the printer.
My question is: If I initiate a print from the SD card via OctoPrint, can I then turn off the RPi so I can use it for other things while the print continues?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Your printer will stop printing. So no.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Disconnecting the USB or connecting it triggers a reboot in the printer. As a result, you can not disconnect or turn off the print server running OctoPrint.
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Tags: octoprint, sd
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thread-15186 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15186 | Purge okay but not extruding during printing | 2021-01-02T22:15:20.677 | # Question
Title: Purge okay but not extruding during printing
I am new to 3D printing and have a newish Eryone Thinker SE. Its been printing fine with some Eryone Glitter Black (EGB) and I'm happy with the results.
The spool has now finished and I'm trying to use some black Tinmorry and/or Sunlu - both rolls are displaying the same issue.
I can load and purge the new filament just fine but starting a print immediately after results in no filament being extruded.
I have unloaded/reloaded, purged and retried a few times to no success. I also switched back to the take end of the EGB with success.
Extruder temperature is 205 °C. Is this just too cold for the new spools?
# Answer
So, I was able to fix this (or it fixed itself overnight as these things sometimes do) with a 5°C increase in extruder temperature to 210°C. The Sunlu PLA filament specifies 200°C - 230°C as its print range.
I followed the advice of a IRL friend who suggested "What happens if you raise the z a bit so you can see the nozzle and keep raising the heat until it starts to come out on its own. Check temp and then run a print at that temp."
I only needed that 5°C increase before I could see it oozing. From there I was able to successfully print a calibration cube and further model.
> 0 votes
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Tags: filament, temperature
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thread-15194 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15194 | Internal thread not sticking to inner wall | 2021-01-04T09:58:19.717 | # Question
Title: Internal thread not sticking to inner wall
I've been trying to print some M14 female threads. The male threads I've printed were perfect and fit into a female metal nut, but for some reason I cannot get the female threads to "stick". This means that they end up being hard to screw into, or the male end (both metal and my printed versions) goes in wonky.
I'm printing in PLA on an Ender 3 V2 at 200 °C on a 50 °C bed. I've tried various resolutions (down to 0.1 mm layer height) and they all exhibit the issue. Print speed is 50 mm/s, cooling is just the stock cooling and fan 100 % after the first layer.
The actual file can be found here (note that it's slightly oversized vs a metric M14 female to allow for printer tolerances) and the follow image shows what I'm talking about:
It's as though the nozzle is pulling the filament away from the wall, but I've tried Z Hop Retraction and combing (infill only) and that gives the same result.
**Answer:** The accepted answer and the comments against the question pointed me in the right direction. A combination of turning off combing and reducing the hot end temp to 190°C gave me perfect threads in 3 consecutive prints.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I do a lot with printed threads, and find this problem creeps up mostly when the filament is wet. Higher temperature (like 220) can partly compensate but it's better to dry your filament and store it properly to keep it dry.
Assuming standard metric thread profile, though, these are also pretty severe overhangs for a concave extrusion (where motion of the head will tend to pull the way you're seeing) unless you use very thin layers. You probably need 0.16 mm or thinner to print reliably (independent of pitch, though finer pitch also needs finer layers for other reasons), and limited acceleration for outer walls (I use 500 mm/s²). If you slice with "outer walls first" turned off, you may be able to get by with thicker layers, provided you have everything else tuned perfectly to ensure the outer wall sticks to the previously extruded inner one (i.e. flow rate perfect).
A contributor to your problem could also be underextrusion due to oozing during combing. You might try setting max comb distance very low (like 0.6 mm, around what I use) or turning off combing and see if that helps.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, adhesion
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thread-15095 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15095 | What happens if you use high temperature PTFE tape with the heater block? | 2020-12-23T17:06:50.523 | # Question
Title: What happens if you use high temperature PTFE tape with the heater block?
High temperature PTFE tape is rated up to 550°F, which is 288°C. I'm wondering if it would be useful for components on the hot end to prevent oozing. Has anyone tried it?
# Answer
> 1 votes
As Andrew stated: PTFE tape should not be needed. Tighten the nozzle with the hotend hotter than you print at and also clean the threads with a tap if you need to. To answer your question: it would stop leakage from the threads.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Whether this is even potentially beneficial depends on the type of hotend you're using. With one like the Ender 3 where the PTFE tube butts all the way against the nozzle, it's not useful, and if it seems useful it means your hotend is misassembled, since filament is never supposed to make contact with the top of the threads.
For an all metal hotend with flaws in the mating surfaces, it's plausible that it might help, but it rather defeats the purpose of having all metal (high temp).
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Tags: hotend
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thread-15197 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15197 | Is it practical to build a separate hotend temperature controller to assemble hotends without taking up printer time? | 2021-01-04T14:04:54.560 | # Question
Title: Is it practical to build a separate hotend temperature controller to assemble hotends without taking up printer time?
One could make such a controller with 3D printer parts and building a case for them, but is it significantly less than just buying a compatible low-cost printer. The intent is to heat up the all-metal hot end to tighten the nozzle to the heater break.
# Answer
> 2 votes
You can get a suitable board for $20 or so, print a case for a few cents, and either repurpose an old PC power supply or buy a new one just powerful enough for the hotend (not bed) heater very cheap, so I think it's a lot less costly than a cheap printer, and cobsumes less space. But I'm not clear what you need it for.
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Tags: hotend, all-metal-hotend
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thread-15104 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15104 | Ender 3 Pro Weak Prints after Cura upgrade | 2020-12-24T14:50:40.900 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro Weak Prints after Cura upgrade
I'm getting weak prints on Ender 3 Pro with Cura after Cura upgrade.
Prints on my Ender 3 Pro have been good until I was forced to update Cura due to having to update the OS on my laptop. Now my prints are weak even after using Infill 50 % from 20 %.
Upgraded to Cura 4.8.0.
I noticed that it seems my print settings were saved from the older non-working Cura version. I went ahead and printed an XYZ Cube with the same settings from my older Cura version where prints were printing fine/acceptable. It fell apart as I tried to lift it off the build plate so I printed a second XYZ Cube with 50 % infill from previous 20 % pictured below:
The above print is noticeably weak, with layers not bonding or maybe something else.
Below is an image of when an XYZ Cube printed with my older Cura version. It is not perfect but it is much stronger without visible separation and actually noticeably heavier than the grey XYZ Cube printed with Cura 4.8.0 :
The green and the grey 1.75 mm PLA I use and shown in the photos are different brands but both printed very much the same with the older Cura version.
I'm thinking this is an issue with the new Cura 4.8.0 that I'm using as nothing about my printing has changed besides the new Cura version assuming that my original print settings were saved which it looks to me that they were.
Has anyone had a similar issue or is there a known fix for this?
---
*Posting settings pics below:*
12/28/20 : Went to https://www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html and noted that they mention to use the Cura 4.8.0 Built-In profiles. Below are two pics of test print while using Cura 4.8.0's Built-In Standard Profile :
12/29/20 :
Screenshot showing Nozzle Diameter (still using the 0.4 mm stock nozzle) & Flow @ 100 %. Please let me know if these are not the correct settings you asked me to look in :
# Answer
> 5 votes
Total user error on my end. With the new version of this app somehow I did not catch that material selected on the UI dropdown was set to some custom material and not Generic PLA. Once I selected the proper material, all worked as expected.
# Answer
> 1 votes
There are three settings you will want to check in Cura to help with this.
**Nozzle Diameter**
Check your "Nozzle Diameter" if you've moved to a larger nozzle and haven't changed it in the new Cura version then it'll be under-extruding, or the default option may just be incorrect for you, most printers (Like the stock Ender 3 Pro) use a 0.4 mm nozzle.
**Flow Rate**
Flow rate usually requires a calibration test, however you should reference your old Cura profile for this, if in doubt, 100 %.
**Filament Diameter**
This needs to be set to 1.75 mm on almost every printer, which yours is.
If you can't get it figured out with these, generate G-code With two versions of Cura side-by-side.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3
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thread-15190 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15190 | Intermittent Y-shift print issue only with multiple items | 2021-01-03T23:18:43.670 | # Question
Title: Intermittent Y-shift print issue only with multiple items
I have an issue with a Y-shift every few lines **only** when printing multiple items at once. If I print the *exact same models* individually, they each print fine. Notice the shift only happens a few times, about every 4 lines, and then stops happening.
I’m printing PLA on an Ender 3 Pro, slicing with Cura 4.8 (Mac).
Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?
# Answer
I initially tightened the tensioner for the x-axis belt pulley, which seemed to help. Then I double-checked my installation, and realized the belt for the x-axis was on upside down (belt teeth go in, smooth side of belt out).
So I guess it’s actually more surprising it’s been working well until now...
> 3 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, pla
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thread-14985 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14985 | Parameterizable customer object in Tinkercad | 2020-12-08T21:13:31.080 | # Question
Title: Parameterizable customer object in Tinkercad
**Background**: Basic shapes in Tinkercad have parameters like Sides, Segments, ... (see screenshot below).
Using codeblocks one can create custom shape. Within the code it is possible to define variables which can be used as a parameters based on which shape is created. This is not flexible solution because if I want to modify some variable I need to enter codeblock, change the value, export to Tinkercad and then I can use it.
**Question**: Is there a way to create custom object with parameters controlled from Tinkercad like in case of basic shapes?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes, there is such a way in Tinkercad. It is called a shape generator and it is very well hidden. you can find it here:
* Open Tinkercad and select a model to Tinker or create a new one.
* select the "Basic shapes" pulldown on the right and choose the last option: "shape generators".
* choose "create shape generator"
* choose "new shape generator" and select a template to start from Here you have the javascript code to create a shape with parameters like basic shapes.
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Tags: tinkercad
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thread-15206 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15206 | Z-axis scale wrong | 2021-01-05T09:23:26.857 | # Question
Title: Z-axis scale wrong
When printing the Z-axis appears out of scale. I'm using a self-built 3D printer.
For example:
* When printing a 10x10x10 mm cube, the Z height is 9.01 mm;
* When printing a 20x20x20 mm cube, the Z height is 18.6 mm.
Does anyone know a possible cause of this problem?
---
*I checked the G-code and everything is sliced correctly.*
*I have now tried connecting a computer to the printer via usb and I executed the command `M92`. The response I got was this: `M92 X200 Y200 Z8000 E500`.*
# Answer
> 1 votes
Assuming that the model is sliced correctly, not scaled (by looking into the G-code you can find out if it is sliced correctly, look up the last layer move `G1 Zxx.xx`, `xx.xx` should be the height of the model). If that is correct, then your Z might have a problem in that the steps per mm are set incorrectly, or your Z stepper is missing steps.
As Marlin is used as printer firmware, you can check and change the configuration of the Z steps per mm. When using a console you are able to communicate with the printer and see output return.
With G-code `M92` you get a report of the current settings. These should be verified with the mechanics (e.g. gearing) and electronics used (e.g. micro stepping value).
In firmware configuration this is found in file Configuration.h (*note: this is an **example** and may differ from your values!*):
```
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2...]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }
```
The third value is the setting for the Z axis. Your value is too low and should be increased according to the fore mentioned mechanics and electronics.
By sending the command `M92 Zxxx` (where xxx denotes the value you calculated) will update the steps per mm.
There are online calculators that can help you calculate the correct value.
As an example, a very common lead screw is the trapezoid Tr8x8(p2). Assuming that you have normal 200 steps/rev steppers and use 16 micro steps and have the fore mentioned lead screws with a 2 mm pitch, the Z requires 1600 steps per mm.
You should check your hardware, stepper, screw and driver. Note that 8000 is a strange value, your Z axis is only about 10 % off, if 8000 value is correct for 200 (1.8°), 1/32, 0.8 pitch, but also for 400 (0.9°), 1/16, 0.8 pitch (M5).
Considering you are losing about 10 % it can also be that the Z stepper is missing some steps. Increasing the Vref of the stepper motor drivers may help with that.
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Tags: z-axis, layer-height
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thread-15202 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15202 | First few layers are now printing very badly | 2021-01-04T18:07:45.077 | # Question
Title: First few layers are now printing very badly
Machine type is an Ender 3 pro with the 4.2.7 board, the latest Marlin bugfix code, latest BLTouch 3.1, latest all metal extruder feeder hardware, Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing.
This really started after having a bad clog in the extruder, thus had to take it apart, clean the clog and put it back together. Nothing changed in any of the axes gantries it just all of a sudden started printing the first few layers very poorly. In fact anything that is only say less than 3 mm tall won't print hardly at all.
First layer print for bed leveling does print well, and the bed is pretty level. PLA used as filament, temperatures are 200 °C for the nozzle and 60 °C for the bed.
# Answer
Well, I guess if I were more experienced I would have checked this earlier. I tried everything almost tore my printer apart and rebuilt. One more testing of a cube and the filament broke. I became suspicious and replaced the filament with another brand and voila, no more printing issues! Looks like it was the filament.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3, troubleshooting
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thread-15213 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15213 | Writing G-Code: length-optimized Test code | 2021-01-05T18:04:35.657 | # Question
Title: Writing G-Code: length-optimized Test code
I want to write a couple of very simple G-code test cases in Marlin-Style to make sure my printer works properly. The idea is to test the movement system, then the end-stops, then the heating and ability to hold temperature. But Marlin already runs large, so I can't spare too many lines in the basic setup, if I want to integrate it into the firmware.
The test I have in mind is this order of operations, covering the basis of each axis and the thermal control:
* The printhead shall move up 20 mm, then right and forward the same.
* the printhead shall home.
* the printhead shall rise again by 20 mm.
* The preheating shall be done (50°C bed, 180°C head).
* The printer shall do nothing for 2 minutes.
* The printer shall cool down.
* Beep twice to signal that the test is concluded.
What is the best way to set up such a test code in the least amount of lines? Did I forget a crucial test command?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I can get down to 13(14) lines using 6 commands, one of which is optional: G1 movements, G28 homing, M140 setting the bed temperature without pause, M109 to set the hotend temperature, G4 dwell to pause, and M300 to beep.
The line in \[\] is optional, but the nozzle isn't safe to touch right away - waiting for the cooldown ensures touch safety.
```
G1 Z20 F1000 ; Movement Test Z
G1 X20 ; Movement Test X
G1 Y20 ; Movement Test Y
G28 ; Homing Test
G1 Z20 ; Movement up (safety measure)
M140 S50 ; Set Bed temperature to 50, directly goto next line
M109 R180 ; Set Nozzle temperature to 180, wait for achieving
G4 S60 ; Wait a minute (to see if nozzle temperature is held)
M140 S0 ; "turn off" bed
[ M109 R25 ; set nozzle temperature to 25C, wait for achieving ]
M109 S0 ; actually turn off nozzle!
M300 S440 P200 ; Beep
G4 P200 ; short pause
M300 S660 P200 ; Beep
```
---
Tags: troubleshooting, g-code, knowledgebase
--- |
thread-15214 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15214 | Z axis issue after upgrade from stock FW to Marlin 2.0.7.2 on Ender 3 Pro | 2021-01-05T20:56:39.513 | # Question
Title: Z axis issue after upgrade from stock FW to Marlin 2.0.7.2 on Ender 3 Pro
I'm having an issue with bed levelling since upgrading my stock *Ender 3 pro* to *Marlin 2.0.7.2*.
The upgrade process seems to have gone through fine, I get the new options and it shows the FW version when I power on. My issue however, is that after I auto home the printer, disable stoppers and then level the bed, using a piece of paper, any time I attempt to print the nozzle hits the bed which stops all flow as there's no space for the filament to come out.
This process is exactly the same as I used to do before the upgrade and I never had issues, only since the upgrade.
For reference, I've manually adjusted all the wheels on the printer so there's a large gap (for testing) between the paper and the nozzle at any point on the bed (the piece of paper passes below the nozzle with zero resistance). However, when I attempt a print, it homes the printer and then the nozzle drops lower and crushes any paper I put between the nozzle and the bed (I do this while testing so it doesn't damage the bed), the paper is impossible to move by hand.
Anyone know what I'm doing wrong here? None of the guides that I've found for installing *Marlin 2.x* on the *Ender 3 Pro* mention anything about having to make any changes to allow the Z axis to work like before so at a bit of a loss as to why this is happening.
---
Something that occurred to me. I use PrusaSlicer as my slicer and I noticed that it has the following lines in the custom G-code for the template that I always use that reference "Z", now admittedly I'm no expert with G-codes but could it be either of these that's causing the issue:
```
G1 Z2 F240
G1 Z0.28 F240
```
Edited to add full prusaslicer template gcode below:
**Start G-code**
```
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G28 ; home all
G1 Z2 F240
G1 X2 Y10 F3000
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 Y190 E15 F1500 ; intro line
G1 X2.3 F5000
G92 E0
G1 Y10 E15 F1200 ; intro line
G92 E0
```
**End G-code**
```
{if max_layer_z < max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(max_layer_z+2, max_print_height)} F600{endif} ; Move print head up
G1 X5 Y170 F{travel_speed*60} ; present print
{if max_layer_z < max_print_height-10}G1 Z{z_offset+min(max_layer_z+70, max_print_height-10)} F600{endif} ; Move print head further up
M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
M107 ; turn off fan
M84 X Y E ; disable motors
```
**Before layer G-code**
```
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
G92 E0
;[layer_z]
```
**After layer G-code**
```
;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE
;[layer_z]
```
# Answer
This seems like Z homing issue. Sounds pretty frustrating, so I will try to give some hints, though I do not have Ender 3. Also maybe my few questions will be helpful.
Did you "adjusted all the wheels on the printer" after the Z position was zeroed? This could be crucial, especially that firmware may raise Z up after homing (e.g. to 4mm). The G-Code you have sent makes simple Z moves: rises to 2mm, then lowers to 0.28 mm above the sea level (and F is denotion of speed). And obviously this should happen AFTER homing Z axis, not earlier - could you check earlier G-Code for G28 call? If you can manually move the bed out of heatend's range (to avoid crashing it) then I suggest to use own file containing only two commands to experiment with Z homing only, e.g.:
```
G90 ; absolute positioning (just to be sure it is not incremental G91)
G28 Z ; homing Z axis
G1 Z0.0 F100 ; firmware may have raised Z up slightly, so lower again to 0
```
If homing would cause the bed accident, than I am unfortunately right - or:
(Added after tracing real problem) Check if Z axis is not loose - e.g. coupler screws are tight - so Z axis cannot rotate on its own by gravity and wight of carrige. When Z steppers are enabled, you should not be possible to move carriage up and down with slight pressur of hands.
Does the printer react to Z endstop? This is first thing to check, actually. You can you press it with finger during Z homing to check if it would react properly (Z homing stopped).
If not, then... did you compile Marlin on your own? For example maybe the Z endstop is or should be inverted. More insight is needed then against the Configuration.h, e.g. file for Z\_MIN\_ENDSTOP settings. Would be good to have its version from previous firmware, or google some valid Ender 3 file to compare with.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis
--- |
thread-15218 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15218 | Failure near the start point | 2021-01-06T02:00:01.897 | # Question
Title: Failure near the start point
The image below I indicated where the point where the tip of my extruder returns after changing the layer height, I don't know if I am right to call this point "Start Point" ...
The problem I am having is possible to see in the photo, because there is a slip of material and sometimes "webs" are created that compromise the quality of the print.
I tried to modify the retraction parameters, such as: speed and retraction length ...
Is there a parameter that I can modify to improve my print?
The slicer software I use is the : FlashPrint\_4.5.1 (because I have a FlashForge Dreamer NX)
# Answer
> 1 votes
Photo interpretation: I understand that the image on the right presents the actual error: it happens on many layers, following the red "Starting Point" line (so above it on the photo). Interesting issue. Btw. which side of the print is the bottom (zero layer)? - I believe the left side, and the right side is the top of the print.
The problem seems to apeear only in the middle of print. Top and bottom layers are usually printed slower, this could be some hint to find the reason. Also, I guess that the vertical cross section is not just a rectangle, but is wider on the top part? - then print parameters (e.g. speed) may change because of overhangs.
Could you share what type of filament do you print with? For example flexible materials will specifically react to the pressure and should not be forcefully retracted and pushed. What type
Is there any exccessive material anywhere on the table? Like oozing or stringing? Do you see any material lost before printing the first layer? If not, the retraction is good enough or even too heavy - then try to minimize it: you may go down until you see any oozing, and then check the wall.
Could you share what range of parameters you have tried- especially the speed and retraction values? Jerk and accelleration? Do you use coasting or other pressure affecting techniques?
What is the hotend diameter? - the specs says 0.4 mm and the direct extruder. And (in comparision) what is the wall's line width for extrusion? What is the real width of this wall? (Is it properly sliced and reflected in G-Code? I advice to use G-Code viewer and inspect the details in given area.) What is the infill %, and how many wall lines do you have configured? And the layer height?
I hope this is of some help for diagnosis.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I have recently looked into "print outer walls first" in an attempt to make the seam vanish. But turning that setting on creates a webby structure on the following area for my printer.
Turning the setting off again (and reducing the outer wall speed to 30 mm/s) completely eliminated the ringing again.
---
Tags: slicing, flashforge, flashforge-dreamer
--- |
thread-15227 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15227 | What is the best build surface for PETG? | 2021-01-06T13:09:21.887 | # Question
Title: What is the best build surface for PETG?
This question doesn't necessarily have one answer. I'm looking for a build surface that doesn't tear up when removing the PETG print, but still holds the PETG down and keeps it from warping. I am printing PETG with the z-height almost too high. Higher causes the PETG not to stick and warp or even release during printing. But, I still have trouble with PETG prints tearing my build surface. I've tried PEI and black build surfaces that don't identify the material. The build plate on my hot bed is glass.
# Answer
**Removable steel spring sheet with PEI textured coatings**
I have been using textured PEI string sheet for most of my prints, just love it. Prints attach so good but not hard to remove(with proper nozzole Z-offset).
If the prints are small and seems hard to remove,heating up the bed helps a lot.
Almost never used the smooth side, even with proper z-offset, it still damages the surface quite fast.
Here's the link i bought before: Removal Spring Steel Sheet Pre-Applied PEI+Magnetic Base
This is my setup on a ender3pro:
> 3 votes
---
Tags: petg, build-surface
--- |
thread-14958 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14958 | Filament sticks to nozzle | 2020-12-06T22:33:00.670 | # Question
Title: Filament sticks to nozzle
Normally, I'm all fine with my printer and filament. But today I changed the filament for another brand and no matter what, it sticks to the nozzle so nothing comes to the bed and soon my nozzle is full of PLA... I use a sheet of paper for printer to level the bed at 0.1 mm. While leveling, I get the nozzle close enough to feel a bit of resistance from the paper while moving that sheet. Please help me...
# Answer
I believe the problem is not so much that the filament is sticking to the nozzle; it's that the filament is not sticking to the bed.
You've confirmed that you have correct clearance for the nozzle to bed distance. The next considerations are bed temperature and nozzle temperature. New brands often require new parameters.
Consider to raise the bed temperature 5 °C. If you're not using any adhesive medium, perhaps a bit of glue stick will help to have the filament stick better/properly.
It's unlikely that the nozzle temperature is incorrect, as too low would result in a nozzle clog, while too high would "drizzle out" and be everywhere, but don't reject too-high entirely.
If you can get the bed adhesion correct, your nozzle should remain clear.
> 3 votes
# Answer
In addition to @fred\_dot\_u remarks:
## Decrease initial layer speed
Try to print the initial layer at lower (very low speed). Start from 20 mm/s, move down even to 5-10 mm/s (e.g. just decrease speed% from the menu). I had many such issues when printing in too high speed (even directly on kapton tape): filament could not stick to the bed so quickly and rolled just after the nozzle - and slowing down almost always helped.
You may also decrease height of first layer e.g. by 25-50 %, and try to increase "Initial Layer Line Width" (e.g. 120 % in Cura). Increase temperatures by 5-10 degrees also helps sometime.
If this will not improve, then try to enhance adhesion.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: filament, heated-bed, bed-leveling, adhesion
--- |
thread-15184 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15184 | Dead thermister or dead board on Ender 5? | 2021-01-02T21:30:34.637 | # Question
Title: Dead thermister or dead board on Ender 5?
I have a base model Ender 5 with the silent v4.2.7 board.
Earlier this week during an overnight print, I came in to find it unfinished and powered off. I turned it back and it complained about an outage. When I started warming the hotend, it squealed and turned itself back off and then back on.
Now anytime, I try to warm up the hotend, I get the same.
I set up the printer to give data me debugging data via the console in Pronterface and in Simplify3D. I don't receive any kind of error, the printer just powers off and then back on.
I'm hoping that the thermister is just dead and I can replace it easily enough. What I'm afraid of is that the board itself is dead. BTW, I am able to warm up the bed with no problem, just not the hot end. Any insight would be appreciated.
# Answer
"Heater core" wires are **not the same** as thermistor wires, are they?
## Check if thermistor is properly connected?
Reading -14 C in my case always pointed a disconnection of thermistor. (I didn't had a case of broken one so far.) In case of short it would probably show som max temperature (my guess, I dont want to try), but it is always good to check if wires are do not touch each other and are properly insulated?
## Measure thermistor's resistance
If you are able to use multimeter, then:
* disconnect thermistor from the printer board
* set multimeter to resistance measurement (200k Ohms)
* connect thermistor and multimeter using wires - the ones having aligator clips would be the best
* read resistance measurent
My spare shows 97k Ohms in room conditions. So value should be high (you may refer to specs sheet of given type when in doubt).
## Check that hotend is actually powered
If thermistor is OK, then indeed the hotend powering may be broken. Ths definitely require skills and may introduce many risks to electronics and maybe even to your health - but if you are skilled enough, you may measure with voltmeter if there is correct voltage provided to the hotend. For example the MOSFET on the board may be broken (I already replaced one in the past for my heated bed).
> 2 votes
---
Tags: hotend, thermistor, creality-ender-5
--- |
thread-15228 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15228 | How to interrupt long command with G-code? | 2021-01-06T13:30:51.637 | # Question
Title: How to interrupt long command with G-code?
I was able to connect my terminal program (Putty) to my 3D Printer (Creality Ender 3 Pro) and was able to send G-code commands to my printer and it obeys.
Now suppose I sent long command like
```
G29 ; auto bed leveling
```
and it is still executing. Printer writes me
```
echo:busy: processing
```
How to interrupt it?
I tried to send `M0`, but it didn't work.
# Answer
3D Printers are pretty basic when it comes to g-code. There is no cycle start or cycle pause function on them. There is also no g-code command to interrupt the previous command. To get it to a halt you could turn it off. Or if the printer's firmware is configured to do so, you can touch one of the limit switches to get it to stop its movements.
> 2 votes
# Answer
G-Code is processed as a queue. The FIFO behavior would disallow to execute any commands in parallel.
However I am aware of - yet I didn't have opportunity to try - the emergency commands M112 or M108 offered by Marlin. Marlin documentation says that EMERGENCY\_PARSER and HOST\_KEEPALIVE\_FEATURE need to be enabled to handle these. So apparently there is a mechanism which may work in parallel (like the higher priority queue?).
These commands may be designed to break execution of some specific actions, e.g. M108 was described to break wait-for-temperature loop. You may want to give it a try.
M0 also requires EMERGENCY\_PARSER setting. And it may be bit different than you expect: it is described as pause **after** the last movement. By contrast, emergency codes (M112 full stop) are designed to jump the internal command queue even when printing and execute immediately, when emergency parser is enabled (command queue would be lost, printer may shut down or user may be forced to reboot the printer).
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, g-code
--- |
thread-15222 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15222 | How to choose a stepper motor when building a DIY 3D printer? | 2021-01-06T06:50:59.633 | # Question
Title: How to choose a stepper motor when building a DIY 3D printer?
I am making a DIY 3D printer and I need to know which stepper motor I should use. I am planning on making an 18x18x18 or 20x20x20 max print size. I am only using a single Z-axis like the Prusa Mini. I am planning on using 1.75 mm filament.
Which stepper motor should I use for my X-, Y-, and Z-axes and the extruder? How do I calculate the power needed? Will 2.8 kg or something near it be enough?
# Answer
> 2 votes
The size of the stepper is usually determined by the forces it must overcome on the machine (i.e. inertia). Obtaining a powerful stepper motor and then using expensive linear guide rails with high tolerances great axial rigidity is wasteful unless you are trying to achieve something specific (which it seems you are not).
Find the cheapest NEMA17 motor you can from a reputable site and start there.
Most of the work has been done for machines of that size, so you don't need to calculate what's required, you can just look it up online. A 250W @ 24V supply is commonly used on printers of that size. The majority of that power is going into the heated bed. If, however, your environment is so cold that the bed never gets to temp, no matter how long you wait, then it will be time to upgrade that bed to an AC mains heated one.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, stepper, prusa-mini
--- |
thread-15235 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15235 | e-steps are wrong only during printing moves | 2021-01-06T18:58:40.763 | # Question
Title: e-steps are wrong only during printing moves
I have two otherwise-identical machines (called "Lefty" and "Righty"), so I have a baseline to compare. I am running Marlin 2.0.7.2 on both machines. They are Creality CR-10 printers with BTT SKR e3 Mini v1.2 boards, with Marlin I compiled myself. Both machines are (as far as I know!) running the same exact firmware binary.
When running **the same G-code** on both printers, Lefty prints fine. But, Righty fires the plastic through -- I need to set the flow rate to 50 % (!) to be correct. I have checked the esteps, both are identical at 415, and this produces 39.5 mm of 40 mm commanded when bumped through 1 mm at a time via the extrusion menu, even on Righty. The XY movement on both machines is 100 % correct.
Volumetric extrusion is disabled in the firmware on both machines, and disabled in the slicer. Both machines are running TMC2209 drivers, set to Spread Spectrum at 650 mA for the extruder. Both machines are set to 1250 accel. The steppers are rated for 1 A, and they are not skipping steps.
The machines were working side-by-side perfectly until I killed Righty's stepper driver with static, and replaced the board. No other hardware was modified.
Why do both machines behave the same with identical G-code, until extrusion moves? Why does Righty try and extrude nearly double what it should be, only during printing, when Lefty works perfectly?
# Answer
Annoyingly, this went away with a replacement board. I don't have a better fix.
> 2 votes
# Answer
For both machines did you compare extruder's (E) steps/mm setting in Marlin and possibly stored in EPROM (so check from the LCD in Configuration\>Advanced settings) ?
Also stepper motors ... I believe they are exactly of the same type? There are 1.8 degree and 0.9 degree stepper motors on the market - so exactly doubled flow could be related to rotation. Also the stepper driver board may be configured for mcrostepping (e.g. full steps agains half steps), and this may equally influence the behavior. (I do not have CR-10, so I cannot advice in more details.)
> 1 votes
---
Tags: firmware, extrusion
--- |
thread-15258 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15258 | Will RAMPS able to control 4 stepper motors | 2021-01-09T07:38:17.943 | # Question
Title: Will RAMPS able to control 4 stepper motors
I am making a DIY 3D printer based on the Prusa mini. So, I doubt whether RAMPS can control only 4 stepper motors as it has slots for 5 stepper motor slots and one will not be used in my case. If I can, in what order should I connect the drivers and also how will Marlin figure out which slot the extruder is connected? Sorry for the lack of knowledge if it is really obvious :|
# Answer
> 4 votes
## RAMPS capabilities
To be more speficic: RAMPS board (versions 1.3 - 1.6) offer possibility to connect **5 stepper motor drivers** (on the board marked X, Y, Z, E0, E1) and **6 stepper motors**, because the Z axis motor's connector is doubled (this is classic design of reprap printer). I could also see other RAMPS versions/clones (1.6+, 1.7 prototype) which have doubled connectors for X and Y axis motors - so allowing 8 motors in total.
## Firmware configuration
Marlin firmware allows to setup in *Configuration.h* the motherboard with RAMPS configuration (extruder, fan, bed, etc.) and number of extruders. Look for lines:
```
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
#define EXTRUDERS 1
```
## Firmware behavior
RAMPS wiring (as in diagram at Tom van der Zanden's response) is reflected in Marlin's file *pins\_RAMPS.h*. When `EXTRUDERS` is set to `1`, Marlin will use `E0_..._PIN` setings from this file to communicate with proper stepper driver board (and the driver will communicate with the motor).
Marlin will enable steppers only when required (for example it will not refer to E1 in the basic configuration). Even when they got idle, they will remain powered for some longer period, defined in *Configuration\_adv.h*:
```
#define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 120
```
## Important remarks
Be careful installing drivers and cables. Double-check the driver board's orientation in slot of RAMPS. Solder cables properly, mount them tightly, fix to the frame, etc. Use ceramic or plastic screwdrivers for motor power regulation (I bought one which doesn't fit well, and sculpted my own from 2.85mm filament). It is important to remember to never unplug powered motors and drivers. (There is LCD menu option "Motion \> Disable steppers", but I always power off the machine to do something. Also, I had non-intentional accidents of broken wires causing unreliable work of extruder, and fortunately the board survived.)
# Answer
> 3 votes
There is no problem with using 4 motors instead of 5. The 5th slot is provided to enable use of a second extruders, but many people only have a single extruder printer and leave the 5th slot unused.
> how will Marlin figure out which slot the extruder is connected
Which stepper motor is in which slot is something you can configure in the firmware. There is no way for the firmware to "figure it out" without help.
It is quite involved to change it in the firmware, so it is best to follow the default placement. You can easily find wiring diagrams for RAMPS (showing the default assignment of motors to slots) on various resources such as the RepRap wiki.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, stepper-driver, ramps, prusa-mini
--- |
thread-6398 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6398 | Cooling fan spins extremely fast, noisy on startup | 2018-07-14T11:26:03.753 | # Question
Title: Cooling fan spins extremely fast, noisy on startup
I have built a 3D printer from parts. It is using a standard 12V power supply, an Arduino Mega 2560 replica and a RAMPS 1.4 board. The hotend cooling fan is connected to the 12V-AUX pin (the one right next to the x axis stepper driver) on the RAMPS board so that it continuously receives power as long as the machine is turned on. The printer is controlled by the Marlin firmware.
When I give power to the board, the cooling fan starts spinning with a lot of noise. It sounds like it is receiving a higher amount of current than it should. Moreover, the noise is not steady, but fluctuates slightly. After about 30 seconds, it gets slightly quieter; after about 40-50 seconds, there is a sudden break. From then on, the fan spins quietly and regularly.
According to measurements with a multimeter, the power supply is keeping a constant and correct voltage of slightly over 12V right from the beginning. Hence, I suspect the issue is somewhere on the RAMPS board.
I am worried about this being more than a problem of unpleasant noisiness. What could be the cause and is there more to worry about?
You can listen to a recording of the sound: 3D printer hotend cooling fan noise
Note that I am not talking about a fan for cooling the extruded plastic, but the one sitting on the extruder heatsink.
---
Shutting down the printer (even literally unplugging the power supply) and plugging it back in does not lead to the startup noise appearing again. Only when waiting for multiple minutes before reconnecting does it happen again.
The voltage to the fan is measured to be constant. The current, on the other hand, correlates with the sounds heard. It starts at 110 - 115 mA. When the fan is quiet, it is at about 90 mA.
# Answer
Now that you have done some measurements, you could make some conclusions.
> The voltage over the fan is reported to be constant, but the current starts at 110-115 mA and reduces to 90 mA over time.
With limited knowledge of electronics you can conclude that the resistance of the fan is not constant as the resistance determines the amount of current through the fan. So the fan resistance increases over time. This could just be a manufacturing problem or characteristics of the fan. You could try to replace the fan with another fan to see if this fixes your problem.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Late to the party but still...
The noise could be caused by the lubrication of the fan ...when you turn on the fan, the lubrication is seated down. As the fan spins, the lubrication gets all over the bearing thus centering the fan reducing the vibrations aka noise.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I propose examining the current voltage of the motor and the arm. The fluctuation of voltage causes the noise.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ramps-1.4, electronics, print-fan
--- |
thread-8553 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8553 | Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board | 2019-03-25T17:45:23.737 | # Question
Title: Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board
I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near future and I have a spare power supply 12V/360W laying around.
When I first got my printer I purchased this external MOSFET board after reading about X5s "upgrades", but so far have not used it.
My plan is to now run the heat bed using a separate power supply than the one running my control board using the external MOSFET to switch it. Since this power supply will only be powering the bed, I would like to bump up the voltage, via trim-pot somewhere from 12V-15V, to gain some watts per square inch on my heat bed.
Will this MOSFET isolate the heat bed circuit from my control board to allow it be ran at a higher voltage? Is it safe to run the power supply/heat bed at a higher voltage than it is rated for a significant amount of time?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Short answer YES. You can run it from a different power supply at a higher voltage. Also it has a PC817 Optical isolator (for some reason) therefore the second power supply and your main board should not be electrically connected at all.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Yes you can, but you should be aware that **running at higher voltage implies that the current also increases**. Your wiring and connectors to the heated platform have to be able to transport that extra current (e.g. the wires, the ones I got where very low quality, and connectors that came with my Anet A8 where not even rated for the standard load, let alone an even higher load). You need to properly solder the leads to the heated bed and use proper terminal clamps (C-clamps or forks) to connect the cables to the MOSFET module. Even running the basic voltage this can happen:
Let's assume the heated bed has a resistance (R) of about 1.4 Ω. A voltage (U) of 12 V would result in a current (I) of $ I=\frac{U}{R}=\frac{12}{1.4} = 8.6\ A$ (Ampere). Running the same bed at 15 V would result in a current of $ \frac{15}{1.4} = 10.7\ A$. The power would increase from about 102 Watt to 161, which is a 60 % increase of a 25 % increase in voltage.
# Answer
> -2 votes
For reference,I done tracing this module as shown. So you can use isolated power supply for load. Also you can use up to 24V without any problem. Edit: This module still work with higher voltage up to 24V. But according to question. Using higher voltage supply more than rated is same as my question here. For summary. Adding more voltage to resistive load results to higher current flow. Recheck your wire and connectors for current rate so you will know the limit of voltage you can go with. One more thing, mosfet can fail like short circuit. At this situation the temperature of bed cannot be controlled. At normal voltage rate even we left the bed connected to power supply the temperature will rising to about 100C if you add more voltage it will go higher than that can the heated bed will broken or burned or start to fires
---
Tags: heated-bed, power-supply, mosfet
--- |
thread-15268 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15268 | Stringing between holes | 2021-01-10T00:33:58.363 | # Question
Title: Stringing between holes
I am printing out models with holes, the printer makes circular patterns for each hole(which makes sense) but then it also has a string that attaches between each hole. This is unsightly and results in a non-uniform surface finish at the top/bottom of prints.
I am wondering if the string is supposed to be there? I am using CURA on the coarse setting, my machine is direct drive with a 3mm retraction setting. I tried increasing retraction to 6mm but the same thing happened.
When looking at the g-code with a layer viewer it shows the strings but I am not sure if it is only representing tool path or not.
edit:
I just tried printing a retraction tower test and I haven't had any stringing, does this mean it's an issue with CURA?
edit v2:
I looked at the layer path on CURA and these strings are not shown. I am at a loss as to what is going on since the retraction test showed it worked fine but every print with holes has the same problem.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Consider that the string you are seeing is the nozzle wiping across the surface, especially if you are not getting stringing via your test part. As you suggest, it's not unlikely that the layer viewer is showing movement and not extrusion.
Check your z-hop settings as well as the other references in the linked page. Z-hop will drop the bed by the set amount when traveling with retraction.
The other useful reference is combing, which limits the travel of the nozzle to remain within the boundaries of the print and also removes the requirement of retraction. It may leave nozzle traces, although that reference is not in the linked page.
All images attributed to linked page.
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Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, retraction, stringing
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thread-12159 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12159 | BLTouch error Marlin 2.x (on SKR 1.3) | 2020-03-11T00:34:49.747 | # Question
Title: BLTouch error Marlin 2.x (on SKR 1.3)
I have some issue with my BLTouch (I'm new to bed levelling) : I compiled Marlin 2.x (for my SKR 1.3) for a Antclabs BLTouch, and everytime I power on the printer, it shows this error message: `Failed to enable Bed Leveling, echo Bed Levelling off, echo : Fade Height 0, FF, ok`:
The LED of the BLTouch is on, I can still deploy and stow the pin, and do "levelling ABL" but Homing Z (for example) is not working. I linked the config.h and config\_adv.h in case needed below:
# Answer
> 2 votes
From a comment can be read that the OP found the solution:
> it's fixed : it's because I didn't level the bed once after flashing the firmware, once it has been done the error is no more
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Tags: marlin, firmware, bed-leveling, bltouch
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thread-15279 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15279 | How to design a DIY printer | 2021-01-11T06:25:39.120 | # Question
Title: How to design a DIY printer
I am making myself a DIY 3D printer on a budget. And I don't know how to prototype it or design it. Like, I have already planned the parts. But, I don't yet have planned the structure or how parts should go together. I tried using a CAD software, but learning one to reach a skill that is needed will take a long time. I want to know how others design their printers and learn from that.
# Answer
There are lots of ways from mere specifications to designs. Most follow several of the principles below, but designing a printer is *not* a light undertaking. it's HUGE.
## Copy and adapt
The most easy way is to take a known design, for example from the RepRap wiki, and copy it verbatim. But it can easily undergo some adaptions, like different hotends or bed sizes.
## Paper sketch & notes
Writing down the specs of some parts is very important to make sure these stay consistent. Paper is also the tool of choice for initial sketches or even finished designs to guide building the actual parts.
## CAD
CAD is an almost indispensable tool to map out the placement of parts and combine them. Or later design parts to print. A CAD design doesn't need to be detailed, it can use stand in rough outlines. Only where parts need to be custom-made, details are essential.
## Prototype
All projects go through prototyping when groups of parts are built and tested on their own and combined piece by piece. Also, this step is where you finalize the firmware.
> 2 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer
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thread-15263 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15263 | Can we apply more voltage to a PCB heated bed to get faster heating? | 2021-01-09T14:39:26.273 | # Question
Title: Can we apply more voltage to a PCB heated bed to get faster heating?
From my understanding, the power of heater must higher than heat dissipate to ambient air so the bed can heat up. The reason why a bed heats up too slowly is due to its heat capacity compared to heater power.
As the heater is a resistive load, I think we can put higher voltage to get more heating power.
The PCB heater has two parts: copper and laminate. The reason of failure is that the copper can come off the board due to high temperatures. In this case we can control temperature with firmware. The questions are:
1. Will this method work?
2. What can go wrong or what is the risk of this method?
# Answer
Yes, this method will work. Some (LED) power supplies have a small potentiometer that you can use to slightly adjust the voltage. On a 12 V printer, adjusting the supply from 12 V to 14 V will give a 36% increase in power.
Obviously there is a limit to how much you can increase the voltage. The voltage itself is unlikely to be the limiting factor, but there is a limit to how much heat the bed can dissipate.
> The PCB heater have 2-part copper and laminate. the reason of failire is the copper go off the board due to high temperature. In this case we can control temperature with firmware.
This is true, but you have to consider that firmware is not infallible. If you increase the voltage (and thus wattage) of the bed a lot, you risk creating a dangerous situation if something fails. Ideally, you should choose the wattage of the bed such that it does not create a dangerous situation even if it is left on permanently by accident. In extreme cases (e.g. 220V to a nominally 12V heated bed) damage will be almost instantaneous before the firmware can intervene.
You also have to consider that increasing the voltage also increases the current. The wires need to be thick enough to handle the additional current. You also have to pay special attention to the MOSFET that is used to switch the bed; it also needs to be able to handle the current (and voltage, though this is usually less of a problem). Usually the integrated MOSFETs on 3D printer control boards can only handle about ~10 A which is what the bed might normally draw. Also pay attention to fuses and to screw terminal connections. They might not be able to handle the increased current either.
> 3 votes
# Answer
# Not necessarily
**Potential differential U**, aka *Voltage* of a part, is not to be ignored: a 24 V part needs only 24 V, not 36 V. A 12 V heartbeat is only safe for 12 V. There is a little tolerance for those measurements, but rule of thumb is about 10-15% of the rated voltage, so a 12 V bed should not be operated at more than 13.8 V for an extended period.
What actually facilitates heating is the **Current I** aka *Amperage* going through an item, as the formula for the Work P<sub>h</sub> (dissipated in the shape of heat) of the electric resistance R is $P\_h=R I^2$.
As long as you stay below or at the maximum **rated Power P<sub>r</sub>** or *Wattage* of the heating pad $P\_r=U I$, you can increase the Current up to the limit of $\frac {P\_r} U=I$. On the bench, with a regulated power supply, we can use that to get a perfect, maximum output as we want it. But the printer isn't a bench with an expensive PSU, we get only something akin to 12 V out of it, so... what to do?
## DON'T route in extra Power!
Yea, in DC circuits we can just add batteries behind one another to get twice the Voltage and push a circuit. Or we can put them in parallel, to sum up the current. But that doesn't work just as straightforward in AC circuits (phase shift between parts has to be taken into account). And routing in an extra pair of wires providing 12 V into an already 12 V part would get us something in the order of 24 V and fry the part. You'd accomplish nothing more than turn your heated bed into a fire hazard or a hunk of scrap!
So straight routing in another 12 V on top of what is rated? **NOPE!**
## Unhooking from the same PSU?
Some printers unhook the bed from the board's PSU, running a (differently) regulated power source. In the best case, it's set up to a Voltage/Current pair that maximizes the bed's heating. In such a setup, the whole heating power runs through a MOSFET that acts as a switch: A signal comes from the board to the MOSFET to allow current to flow. No signal on the Gate of the MOSFET leads to no current reaching the bed and no heating.
However, that is a complicated setup - yet one of the only ways how a "mains voltage bed heater" can be done with a board that runs on 5 V. You *also* will have to route the high power through a properly rated set of wires and connectors. These thicker wires will need proper strain relief as they need larger bending radii than what is installed before. In other words: **you need to know what you do!**
## Finetuning the power supply to the bed!
In many printers, there's also a less invasive method to finetune the power curve of a bed. usually, there is a Potentiometer that is used to tune the output of the heating wires. Altering the potentiometer's setting with a screwdriver results in the output voltage shifting. $U=R I$ does not change when flipping to AC but U and I became wave functions instead of constants. However, R of a long wire (such as a bed) does depend only on the frequency of the signal and not on either the current nor the driving potential, we can assume R to be constant. So, we know we want to maximize I². So what can we do easily?
A 24 V heatbed has something in the order of 2 Ω and accompanied mainboard in my Ender3 is - according to the labeling - good for about 13 A on the bed output, while a typical 12 V bed runs in the order of 1.2 Ω while such boards typically are limited to 10-11 A. $U= RI$ to the resuce and... Voila: For the 11 A/1.2 Ω case we can tune the potentiometer to get just a smidge below 13.2 V - just at the 10 % point, for the 13 A/2 Ω case is *technically* safe at 26 V - and still well within the 10% rule of thumb. However, if you have a 1.2 Ω bed and your borard only allows to draw 10 A, then you are limited to 12 V.
> 0 votes
# Answer
You can add a boost converter to the bed's power supply. Assuming that you are using an external MOSFET to control the bed (and you should). Verify what the MOSFET's max voltage rating is, then obtain a boost converter and configure it to give a voltage that is 10% less than the max. I once used this technique when driving a 24V hot end heater using a 12V power supply. Be forewarned, however, the boost converter I was using exploded during use one day.
Or you could get an additional higher voltage PSU and use that as the bed's heater. They make them up to 80V I think now.
> 0 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, electronics
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thread-15286 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15286 | Safe, cheap, heated enclosure solution for New England garage | 2021-01-11T18:43:41.373 | # Question
Title: Safe, cheap, heated enclosure solution for New England garage
Hopefully this isn't against the rules as it may fall under "opinion" more than a concrete answer, but I'll ask anyway.
I live near Boston and it gets cold here. My Ender 3 Pro is out in a detached garage with no heat and I'm pretty sure the garage getting down to about -12 °C (10 °F) has ruined a few prints for me. Also I'd love to print in ABS at home as well and I think I'd need an enclosure for that.
Now, the printer technically already has an enclosure. It's in a box made out of plywood with some clear acrylic doors on the front, but I think the box itself has too much extra room and doesn't retain heat well enough (thin plywood?).
So my question is, for anyone with experience printing in cold environments, what are some cheap/easy ways to keep the enclosure warm, preferably as safe as possible since I can't always watch the print. I have a small space heater in the garage but I turned it off last night because I wasn't sure how safe it'd be overnight and didn't want to start a fire.
Thoughts on stuff like "reflectix" liners for the enclosure that would help retain heat, small heaters, IR lamps, etc...? All preferably on the cheap side.
# Answer
The easiest step would be to add some isolation on the outside of the box. If you have space inside, there might be a good spot to store some non-flammable insulation, for example rock or glassfiber wool.
A different material might also be possible - firebrick is not only non-flammable but also a very good insulator! about 2-3 inches of firebrick can contain the heat produced by a tempering oven while the outside is cool enough to be safe to touch with gloves.
However, you should install an extra thermosensor for the chamber temperature - and make sure that the printer enters print halt mode once the temperature in the chamber gets above a critical temperature to try to mitigate fire risks and possibly start a chamber-cooling protocol - which might include aborting the print or activating coolers that rapidly cool down the chamber.
As you pretty much are going heated chamber, you might find a spot when you might want to use a flexible hose to pull non-chamber air to supply the parts cooling fan.
Also, possibly relocate as much of the electronics to a compartment separate from the printer's heat chamber to ensure the electronics don't get cooked and can be supplied with cooler air.
> 1 votes
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Tags: heat-management, enclosure
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thread-15294 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15294 | Setup for a firefighting solution inside a heated chamber that doesn't destroy the printer? | 2021-01-12T14:28:14.557 | # Question
Title: Setup for a firefighting solution inside a heated chamber that doesn't destroy the printer?
Heated chambers, especially homebrew ones, might pose a fire risk if the printer inside has a really bad day and its TRP is defective or - oh horror - deactivated. We are dealing with a class A fire if it ever starts to smolder, so water is out. Many other firefighting measures - like an ABC extinguisher might destroy the printer. On a ferry, I saw signs that they had Halon firefighting in the machine room. But that stuff is near unavailable, the more fancy replacements expensive and a typical, pre made deployment system costs thousands.
Is there a way how one might set up a firefighting solution oneselves, using somewhat readily available parts?
# Answer
# Firefighting Agent
One Halon alternative is the rather simple and cheap gas CO<sub>2</sub>. It is neither toxic nor hard to get: "60 liter" water-carbonation bottles are readily available over the counter to create soda water and contain some 200-300 liters CO<sub>2</sub>
Alternatives are Argon and Nitrogen, but those don't come in these small canisters and dissipate more quickly, but they also need the chamber to be gas-sealed.
**Because non-flammable gases act by smothering the flames, it is vital that rooms in which such a gas firefighting system is installed are not rooms in which people are usually, and in case of a workshop, it might be required to disarm the automatic trigger while the door is opened!**
# Deployment System
Such a soda water machine also would deliver the most crucial parts of a deployment system: the valve. To activate it, a solenoid can be used - once current flows through the solenoid, the valve is pushed open and the CO<sub>2</sub> will shoot out into tubing or piping leading into the build chamber.
The gas canister should under no circumstances be inside the build chamber's heated compartment but somewhat close.
# Release System
Now we need a way to trigger the solenoid. I propose to use at least some redundancy in construction.
* Manual Mechanical Override. This can be as simple as a lever that bypasses the solenoid and activates the valve manually. Also useful for functionality tests.
* Manual Electric Override. Using a 9V block battery and some sort of latching switch/button. The solenoid is directly powered from the "reserve" battery now.
* Automatic via a microcontroller. Using a small programmable chip, one could use a spare thermosensor inside the chamber to detect temperatures of dangerous levels. As a direct response, it triggers the solenoid to release the gas into the chamber and continue to do so for at least long enough to fully flush the chamber, even as the temperature drops with the injected firefighting agent. It might be best to *also* trigger an alarm, for example, a repurposed doorbell. If one goes for such a solution, an output of the current chamber temperature could also be integrated, though I strongly discourage from integrating the fire suppression as a part of the printer board!
* Automatic via a thermal switch. More simple in design, a Normally Open Thermostat Switch could be used instead of a whole microcontroller. Such a switch could use the same power source as a manual electric override switch, and indeed, be mounted parallel to the same switch. The downside of a hard-wired thermostat switch is, that it sets a hardwired maximum chamber temperature. It'd be best to choose a switch with a reset-temperature that is as far from the trigger temperature as possible to ensure that the chamber contains as little O<sub>2</sub> as possible. The availability of switch types here dictates the voltage of the system.
## What about the chamber heat control?
Once the firefighting system engages, the chamber should no longer get access to fresh air. This could possibly be made by having a different solenoid push a shutter in front of the air intakes and/or by de-powering any chamber cooling fans.
## Door Safety
A magnetic switch in the door should cut power to the solenoid, ensuring that only the mechanical manual override can fire the system.
> 2 votes
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Tags: safety, chamber
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thread-15223 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15223 | How to block UV light (transparent material)? | 2021-01-06T08:15:42.343 | # Question
Title: How to block UV light (transparent material)?
I want to build my own curing station for my resin printed parts. I know there are a lot of prebuilt machines but they do not completely satisfy my needs.
I now want to know which material i can use to cover the chamber, but still be able to see inside. The material should therefore block UV light but still be transparent.
* The material should be transparent to only light above the UV spectrum, but should block UV light (UV-A, UV-B if possible)
* The material should be purchasable in sheets to be able to build a cover out of it (e.g. acrylic sheets)
* the color is not relevant as long as you can see through it
The questions is now, which material satisfies those points? You can find reference on existing machines like the Elegoo Mercury Pro or the Formlabs Form Wash. Maybe somebody knows which material has been used by either one of them.
# Answer
I contacted the manufacturers of curing stations directly and got some interesting feedback. Not all of them were keen on sharing their information, but two responded:
I am sure they are using some additional UV blocking on the plastics with a coating, but thats all I could find out. Thanks to @Greenonline for pointing me in the right direction!
> 1 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, resin, sla
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thread-15256 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15256 | BLTouch not touching bed while leveling | 2021-01-08T22:44:57.527 | # Question
Title: BLTouch not touching bed while leveling
I have an Ender 3 Pro that I installed a BLTouch sensor on. After I auto-home, I level bed and it deploys the probe in the right spot, but doesn't go down far enough, then goes back up and stops leveling.
I am using the wiring for BLTouch for Z homing on SKR mini E3 v1.2. I am using Marlin Bugfix-2.0 with BLTouch and a few other things enabled.
# Answer
I think I fixed everything. What I did is I used this guide \<youtu.be/y\_1Kg45APko\> which was a guide by makes'n'breaks on setting the probe z-offset using pronterface and then reverted to the original firmware that was on this page\<github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/…\> Which was the marlin firmware for bltouch for z homing for my mainboard.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bltouch, bigtreetech
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thread-15296 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15296 | Can RAMPS 1.4 be used for a 3D printer? | 2021-01-12T14:54:07.967 | # Question
Title: Can RAMPS 1.4 be used for a 3D printer?
I am making a DIY 3D printer on a budget. So, I came across a kit with RAMPS 1.4 with an Arduino Uno which is really a great price. But, I don't know if the RAMPS board and the stepper driver (DRV8825) which it supplies, can be used to make a 3D printer. And also will it come with average quality parts as the total amount of that kit is 2999 rupees or 40 dollars. Here is a picture if needed:
# Answer
> 4 votes
To answer your question, yes, RAMPS 1.4 can be used for a 3D printer, but note that it is an outdated platform.
**But...**
From the supplied image can be concluded that the seller doesn't have a clue what is being sold in the webshop ( e.g. incorrect naming for the shield, 3 stepper motors and 4 stepper drivers?!?).
This is **not** a RAMPS set (RAMPS is a shield for an Arduino Mega 2560) but a CNC shield set. An Arduino Uno isn't typically the hardware used for a 3D printer (better suited for laser cutter), but you could use it. Also RAMPS itself is already outdated, there are other options for a bit more money.
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*With a limited budget and limiting the time and frustration spent on building your own first printer from scratch it might be more economical to buy a 3D printer kit; a kit has all the parts for frame and electronics to get started relatively quick. These kits are documented, have upgrades and have proven to work and can be used to build a better 3D printer (that is exactly what I did). Note that building a printer yourself is usually not more economical, large kit manufacturers have discounts on buying parts in bulk which you don't have. Unless you are building a printer from wood/MDF and have a lot of parts readily available a kit may be a more economical solution.*
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Tags: diy-3d-printer
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thread-13997 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13997 | Temperature sets to cooling when print starts CR10s Pro v1 | 2020-07-01T22:47:53.903 | # Question
Title: Temperature sets to cooling when print starts CR10s Pro v1
I've got this second hand printer today, but, when I want to start printing, the temperature sets to cooling mode and the print never starts.
This is what I've done so far...
* Upgraded firmware for the board and screen to Tiny Machines latest version.
* Check temperature manual for bed and nozzle and works fine
* Level the bed
* I used Cura with several profiles, even with an Ender 3 profile from my other machine to see if the slicer is the one giving issues
On other G-codes that i tried, the message changes to in the pause and completing percentage is set to 218 %...
Any ideas?
# Answer
File name is too long, I had the same issue, shortened the file name and now printing perfect
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-cr-10
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thread-15303 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15303 | What can cause a 3D printer to catch on fire? | 2021-01-13T14:44:14.957 | # Question
Title: What can cause a 3D printer to catch on fire?
From what I've seen, you can take a typical extruder heater, apply the designated supply voltage without temperature control, and as long as the heater isn't contacting something with a flashpoint below the temperature the heater reaches, the heater will not catch on fire. Thus, unless one catches the filament on fire, it seems that thermal runaway of the extruder heater wouldn't normally start a fire.
I'm not sure what would happen if someone installed wrong components, such as a 12V heater to a 24V supply. What are situations that could cause a 3D print to catch fire?
# Answer
> 3 votes
In short:
* The control board does not have thermal runaway installed
* The heated bed connectors are loose and begin to heat up until the wires catch fire
* The power supply or it's connectors begin to heat up until they catch fire
* The modifications that you made to your printer were not well thought out resulting in a capacitor to explode (raises hand; that's happened to me.)
# Answer
> 2 votes
A normal hotend will not melt or cause fires, usually, see first video. However, if the power regulating unit fails as well and higher voltage is supplied (19 V on 12 V cartridge are enough) it can happen, see second video.
Fires are more likely caused by overheating wires, especially where joints are presents.
Hotend runaway does not cause fires from the hotend itself, but it could cause fire related to its wiring. Also, the uncontrolled temperature may make the hot end fan fail, worsening the situation.
Issues canbe caused also by a runaway on the bed and overheating MOSFETs.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Another source of fire comes from connections, not the heaters themselves.
As the connection and connector ages, the electrical resistance of the connection increases. Up to a point, this is not a problem. A portion of the energy goes to heating the connection, and less energy goes to the heated element. These are in closed loops, so energy is applied longer to compensate.
The connection is using the lost energy to heat itself. This increases the corrosion rate, and also can cause plastic in the connector to flow, which relaxes the connection pressure, which further increases the corrodion, resistance, and heating.
This situation is unstable, and ends in one of three ways:
1. the extrusion hot-end or the bed don't get as hot, with implication on the print quality,
2. the connection opens, and the heated system simply fails,
3. or the worst case, where the temperature increases to the point where the connector housing, wire, heater PCB, or dust and fur on the connector catches fire.
The only real mitigation of this risk is to periodically check power connections for warming. If a connection is warm, it should be watched more carefully. If it is hot, you already have a problem and should fix it.
If you are concerned, focus on preventative maintenance, and on being sure that there are no flammable materials near the printer. Don't put your printer in a simple foam case. Consider the flammability of any enclosure components.
You might also consider adding a smoke and high-temperature detector connected through a relay to disconnect main power. If a connection starts sputtering, you might detect it before the fire can transfer to your house.
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Tags: safety, thermal-runaway
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