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thread-7989 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7989 | Difficult to remove support material | 2019-01-16T12:04:55.947 | # Question
Title: Difficult to remove support material
I'm having a lot of difficulty removing support material without damaging the print.
Are there any tips/tricks to doing this or is it just a case of sanding, cutting, chopping and then cleaning it up as best I can?
**Settings**
* Printer: Monoprice Ultimate
* Filament Temp: 200 °C
* Plate Temp: 60 °C
* Material: PLA
* Slicer: Ultimaker Cura
+ Placement: Everywhere
+ Angle: 20°
+ Pattern: Concentric
# Answer
> 5 votes
## Print/material specific settings
If you are printing ***too hot with too less distance***, ***the support just fuses to the print object***. Extra cooling, lower print temperature and support distance should be in balance to create easy to remove support structures with respect to an acceptable print object surface. If temperature and cooling cannot be balanced to prevent fused support structures (e.g. for high temperature filament materials that cannot take too much cooling as that would result in less structural solid prints), there is an option in Cura to override the fan speed for the first layer above the support (`Fan Speed Override`). If this fails to produce easy removable supports, you can resort to changing the support distance between the support and the print object.
## Support settings
Most of the used slicers have an option to determine how much distance (in terms of layers) you want between your support and your product, you could add an extra layer as space to try out if that works better for you. E.g. the default Cura setting for `Support Bottom Distance` (which is a sub-setting of `Support Z Distance`) is the layer thickness specified in `Layer Height`. If you have a layer height of 0.2 mm, the `Support Bottom Distance` is also 0.2 mm. For the top, option `Support Top Distance` this is two layer heights, so 0.4 mm in this example. These options are visible in the expert mode, you can search for them in the search box, see image below.
---
**Why should you want air in between your part and the support?**
You'll soon find out when you want to **remove supports**, if no gap is used, the support will fuse to the print part. This is only interesting (no gap between print part and support structure) when you use a different filament for support like PVA or break-away filament; e.g. PVA dissolves in water in a dual nozzle printer setup (not that you can make the biggest part of the support except the top and bottom layer from the print object material, e.g. PLA for the main part of the support and PVA for the bottom and top layer: settings `First Layer Support Extruder`, `Support Interface Extruder`, `Support Roof Extruder` and `Support Floor Extruder`).
# Answer
> 2 votes
Test out a couple different types and z distances. I've found that the 'lines' type on Cura turns out very well - they are generally easy to remove and leave few artifacts on the part. Some types of support I've found to be much more difficult to remove than others, I would recommend 'lines' or 'zig zag'. See the link at the bottom for all possible values.
### Z distance
Beyond switching over to 'lines' instead of 'concentric' this is the one that I've found has the most impact on the how easy it is to remove supports. You want this to be as large as possible while still providing sufficient support. Do a couple test print, increasing this value until the detail start to get bad, then lower it just a bit.
### Current link for Cura setting explanations
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20422-cura-support-settings
# Answer
> 1 votes
Changing slicer settings will ultimately help with future prints, but there is a tool that has been an absolute god send to me for cleaning up hard to clean up prints.
Please, go pick one up. You won't regret it. They make life so much easier to clean up prints from hard to clean up materials.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It’s possible to use a heat gun to smooth it off after removing the majority of the supports. It creates a glossy effect as well.
# Answer
> 0 votes
It is recommended that you try "tree support" in the "experimental" module of settings.Also,before removing the support, blowing with a hot air gun to soften the support material connected to the model may achieve good results.
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Tags: print-quality, support-structures, monoprice-maker-ultimate
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thread-14199 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14199 | How to solve ABS deformation at the bottom? | 2020-08-06T13:21:59.963 | # Question
Title: How to solve ABS deformation at the bottom?
I am printing small mechanical pieces in ABS:
* 100 ºC bed temperature
* 70 ºC Room temperature
* 250 ºC nozzle temperature
* 0.4 mm nozzle, at 0.15 mm per layer.
* 100.8 % scale to compensate ABS dimensional innacuracy.
The first layer is printed correctly, but later, corners warp and first 10 mm get deformed (See images).
How do I solve this? Unfortunately, I cannot increase room temperature over 70 ºC
Here is a picture while printing, we can see that the edges get warped even far over the first layer. (Sorry, the picture quality is not so good):
# Answer
The up-curling of overhangs is frequently seen when printing PLA or PETG when the just deposited layer hasn't been cooled enough. The residual heat will allow the curling as the plastic has not been fully set (above the so called glass temperature) because of insufficient part cooling.
Knowing that ABS doesn't need much cooling (to improve the inter-layer bonding), you most probably will not require full power of the fan (depending on the cooling power of the fan). You do need a little cooling though, but not for the first (few) layer(s), so keep the fan off at the first layer. Be sure it is up to speed at the layer you require the cooling as the first few percentage of the fan is generally not enough to rotate the fan. E.g. my fans start spinning at about 20-25 %.
> 5 votes
# Answer
## Results of the suggestions in comments and answers
Following are the results, coming from the great answers received on this page. I post them here in case it can helps further readers in achieving good results.
> Note: when two numbers are indicated, the first is for the first layer, and the second for the rest of the piece. (e.g. 250 ºC / 230 ºC)
> If you want to see the result, go now directly to the bottom of the answer :-)
> Note2: Pictures are taken from the **worse** side. In some cases, other sides are much better.
First try:
* Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 240 ºC
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC
* Chamber temperature: 70 ºC
* Speed: 60 mm/s
* Fan: 0% / 50%
Second try:
* Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 240 ºC
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC
* Chamber temperature: 70 ºC
* **Speed: 20s / layer**
* Fan: 0% / 50%
Third try:
* Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 240 ºC
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC
* Chamber temperature: 70 ºC
* Speed: 20s / layer
* Fan: 0% / **100%**
* **95% flow**
Forth try:
* Nozzle temperature: **245 ºC / 230 ºC**
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC
* Chamber temperature: **50 ºC**
* Speed: 20s / layer
* Fan: 0% / 100%
* 95% flow
Fifth try (succeed):
* Nozzle temperature: **245 ºC / 225 ºC**
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC
* Chamber temperature: **40 ºC**
* Speed: 20s / layer
* **Fan: 0% / 200%** (I added an additional fan)
* 95% flow
**My current settings:** (in case it helps)
At the end, I opted for the following setup, which seems to adapt better to all kind of shapes:
* Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 250 ºC *(slighty higher temperature help adhesion between layers and give better piece resistance)*
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC / 80 ºC *(80 ºC I had some piece deformation over 85 ºC, especially big pieces)*
* Chamber temperature: 50 ºC
* Speed: 40 mm/s, or even 30 mm/s *(Help adhesion and good precision)*
* Fan: 0% / 200% *(I added an additional fan, helps avoid deformation in corners, as described in the question)*
* Scale the piece 100.5% *(ABS shrink)*
* Minimum layer time: 20s *(For small pieces, this allows each layer to cool enough)*
* Build Plate Adhesion: Brim
* 100% flow
## Conclusions:
* **The solution is to cool each layer as much as possible and as soon as possible, BUT avoiding warping.**
* **Use a very strong adhesion to avoid the warping, allowing a better cooling of each layer.** In my case I started to use a cheap and strong hairspray (which works surprisingly well).
* Using chamber temperature over 50 ºC make it more difficult to cool each layer quickly, thus, it is not recommended.
* Using ventilation is a must.
* Different configuration for first layer and consecutive layers helps.
> 1 votes
# Answer
We usually stick the masking tape on the printer's bottom plate, so that the model is formed on the side of the masking tape which without glue, which looks good. When there is no masking tape, we sometimes manually adjust the height of the bottom plate to make the nozzle appress to the bottom plate when printing the first layer. At this time, the melted material can hardly flow out. The strong pressure will adhere the material tightly to the bottom plate, which can effectively solve this problem. However, this may damage the extruder motor.
> 0 votes
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Tags: abs, warping
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thread-14221 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14221 | Is there such thing as a sealed dual extruder hot end? | 2020-08-09T21:17:50.250 | # Question
Title: Is there such thing as a sealed dual extruder hot end?
Does anyone know of a hot end that is sealed? What I meaning is that the hot end has a rubber seal where the filament enters to keep the top airtight (in order to eliminate oozing).
I am looking to build a dual extruder printer but, I do not want any oozing from the hot end which is not in use. I could build a system to retract and 'close' the nozzle but it would be much more elegant if it would work to just seal the top of the hot end. Thus achieving the same effect as when you pull up water with a straw by covering the top with your finger.
# Answer
In a true dual-extruder / dual hot-end printer, having a seal isn't necessary.
On my dual-extruder printer, the non-active extruder does an aggressive retraction and then drops the hot-end temp down to a *stand by* temperature which is lower than the melting point of the filament. Because it had an aggressive retraction ... and it's cooling ... the filament doesn't seem to ever make it out before it has cooled to the point where the filament drops below the melting point. While there is no 'seal' ... it doesn't ooze.
The slicer software (I use Cura) estimates the time remaining before the extruder needs to become active and will start to pre-heat the hot-end so that there wont be much (if any) delay. Once the extruder becomes active, it will re-prime and will usually move to a prime tower to get the filament flowing again ... while the other nozzle (the one that just became inactive) does a retraction and starts cooling down.
With this technique of retracting and lowering the inactive hot-end to a standby temperature, I have never personally experienced an issue with oozing.
> 2 votes
# Answer
It doesn't work that way, or perhaps in some sense it already does.
The "straw effect" you're describing depends on the water not being under any pressure that exceeds the outside atmosphereic pressure. If you squeeze the straw or otherwise apply pressure, it will immediately spill out.
If you're printing at more than a ridiculously slow print speed (slow enough that it would fail for other reasons, like the nozzle melting the already-printed part just by proximity to it), the filament is under very high pressure from the extruder gear. The primary function of retraction is not to move the filament back out of the nozzle orifice, but simply to relieve that pressure. (A little bit more is needed to prevent oozing, however.) When retraction happens, it's exactly like the "straw effect" you're describing. The material pulled back out of the hotend into the heatbreak hardens enough that it makes a nearly air-tight seal, preventing the molten material below from flowing out of the nozzle due to gravity.
If your hotend does not have design problems and if you're using retraction correctly (that means using it **everywhere** that you're making a move that's not an extrusion one, not skipping it with "Limit Support Retractions" or "Combing"), you should not see oozing, ever. The system already works the way you want it to. But you can't magically get rid of the need for retraction. It's part of how the system you want works.
> 2 votes
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Tags: extruder, hotend, dual-nozzle
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thread-14239 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14239 | Additional mods for printing metal filled filament with Ender 3 V2? | 2020-08-12T01:11:45.453 | # Question
Title: Additional mods for printing metal filled filament with Ender 3 V2?
I am thinking about getting into the 3D printing craze and currently looking at purchasing a Creality Ender 3 V2 as an entry-level unit. I would like to print using the normal PLA, PETG, ABS, etc. but I'm also thinking of metal-infused PLA or similar for printing jewelry. The suggested modification that I have found in researching is the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend in order to reach the higher temps for printing metals.
Am I correct with this additional mod? Are there other Hotends that would better? Any additional mods for working with metals?
# Answer
There is a lot of misinformation in the 3D printing world about "all-metal hotends" being an upgrade. Some of them, especially clones, are not even all-metal but just poor lookalikes that create all sorts of problems. But even if you get a real one, it's a *trade-off*, not an upgrade. It lets you print materials that need a hotend temperature over 250 °C (over which the PTFE liner will begin to degrade and possibly release small amounts of harmful gasses) up to the temperature your heating element can achieve, at the cost of losing the extremely-low-friction PTFE pathway all the way to the nozzle, which aids with smooth extrusion and retraction and avoids jams. Depending on your particular all-metal hotend, it may be harder to get retraction working correctly than with a normal PTFE-lined one. Some users report very good results, others lots of problems.
There are very few materials that need temperatures over 250 °C to print that don't also need a much more expensive machine (or at least a heavily-modified one) for other reasons, such as requirement of a high-temperature enclosure. The main materials that can be printed on an Ender 3 with an all-metal hotend but not the standard PTFE-lined hotend are polycarbonate (needing 255-300 °C) and some forms of nylon (which may need up to 250-270 °C). All the other non-exotic materials, including PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU, and even some exotic ones like POM (aka delrin or acetal) and many nylons, can be printed just fine with a stock Ender 3 (possibly with a minimal enclosure built around it).
In particular, for the purpose you want - printing metal-infused PLA - there is no point whatsoever in an all-metal hotend. Metal-infused PLA is printed within the temperature range of PLA, which is typically 230 °C at the absolute highest (and preferably much lower) and the printer you're looking at should print it just fine out-of-the-box (or rather, once you assemble it).
If you're concerned about abrasive wear from the filament, this affects the nozzle not the hotend. Technically the nozzle is "part of" the hotend assembly, but it's easily removable and generally considered a consumable item that you replace periodically. You can get hardened steel nozzles and all sorts of other exotic replacements designed not to wear out from abrasive materials, but the standard brass has the best thermal (heat conduction) properties and is so cheap you're generally better off sticking with it and buying a pack of 20 or so to have on hand when they eventually need replacement. In any case, there's no need to replace the hotend with an all-metal one to deal with nozzle wear; you can get either type of replacement to fit the original one.
> 4 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, metal-printing, filled-pla
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thread-14238 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14238 | Is nozzle no longer heating up correctly related to hotend insulation being pulled off? | 2020-08-11T23:45:21.013 | # Question
Title: Is nozzle no longer heating up correctly related to hotend insulation being pulled off?
The insulation of the heater block got pulled off...
I was trying to print ABS on my TEVO Tornado, overnight. But I not-so-smartly left the window open overnight, thinking it was alright (as to remove the fumes) but then it warped so much that it pulled off the insulation of the hotend.
It is no longer heating up to over 200 degrees Celcius. It starts showing a message saying `PRINTER HALTED: PLEASE RESET` Should I just re-insulate it? if I should, what do I use for insulation?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes I had this same problem myself.
You will need to re-insulate it using a silicone block and next time don't leave the window open while printing. Just keep the fan or AC on to circulate the air.
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Tags: hotend, abs, tevo-tornado
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thread-14242 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14242 | Three RAMPS boards wasted by plugging in a heated bed | 2020-08-12T06:06:16.787 | # Question
Title: Three RAMPS boards wasted by plugging in a heated bed
I have a DIY 3D printer. Everything works fine except the heated bed. When I plug my heated bed to the D8 terminal smoke comes out.
This is my third RAMPS board that I have had this problem with. After it burns the RAMPS still works but the heated bed doesn't stop to heat. I am using a 12 V 30 A power supply.
Is it something about my power supply?
# Answer
> 1 votes
It could be a couple of issues:
* the heated bed tries to use more power than the ramps board is capable of because the traces on the board aren't big enough to get rid of the heat.
* the thermistor is broken / not properly connected or configured, and it keeps on heating the bed forever.
* a short somewhere in the wiring.
My advice:
Check the wiring. If there is no short, check your thermistor. Is it reporting the right temperature? If it reports the right temperature, try using a external mosfet module for the heated bed. These are fairly cheap, and easy to connect.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, heated-bed, ramps-1.4, repetier
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thread-14244 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14244 | "print" menu not loading on Monoprice MP Select Mini V2 | 2020-08-12T15:55:59.250 | # Question
Title: "print" menu not loading on Monoprice MP Select Mini V2
I have an MP Select Mini V2 and when I turn on the printer and select the "print" menu it hangs while saying "please wait" instead of listing the `.gcode` files stored on the SD card.
I have been using that printer with that SD card for hundreds of prints without error. It started when I took it out and added a new `.gcode` file (sliced in Cura with the same settings as I always use) and placed it back into the printer to print it. When I connect the SD card into my computer (Windows 10) everything seems normal with the card.
What could be causing this issue?
# Answer
**Too many files on SD card**
I removed some files and now it works, it seems like the menu would not load if the SD card contained more files than the printer could display on the print menu (they didn't take up a lot of space in memory, though).
> 3 votes
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Tags: monoprice-select-mini, microsd
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thread-14251 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14251 | Resin types: Water Soluble vs PLA | 2020-08-14T21:07:15.707 | # Question
Title: Resin types: Water Soluble vs PLA
With resin LCD printers (not filament!), what are the considerations to choose between PLA and "water soluble"? Microcenter carries resins from esun in these two types, and their spec sheets indicate that tyhe water-soluble type has higher tensile strength and other mechanical properties. Which leads me to wonder, under what circumstances one selects PLA then?
# Answer
> 3 votes
First of all, let's look at what the filaments are:
## PLA & PVA Filaments
Normal PLA and Water-soluble PVA contain for the most part the material on the tin, its precursors, and possibly some modifiers. These are only suitable for thermoplastic processes like injection molding or FDM/FFF (Filament deposition modeling/Fused Filament Fabrication) printers - the finished polymer can't be made back into a UV-curable resin easily. Both materials are chemically rather well bonded and are not very reactive at all. They are biodegradable and not a lot of toxic waste. PLA needs very strong chemicals such as dichlormethane to go into solution, but PVA is water-soluble.
## Resin
Almost no cured resin (as in post-polymerized) is water-soluble, your webshop might have a misnomer as it meant to write the proper name: water-washable, which is meant to reflect the ability to put the unpolymerized *monomers* into solution in water.
### eResin
eSun offers an eResin-PLA-Bio-Photopolymer, which is *similar* to PLA, but it is **not the same material** you get for an FDM printer. You see this most easily by checking the density and the MSDS: Real PLA has a density of 1.21–1.43 g/cm³, eResin (as the bottles are labeled) has a density of merely 1.07-1.13 g/cm³. This is a totally different material in the bottle! It is most likely a resin mix that is based on lactic acid monomers and a UV-active acid that can bond the monomers, creating a structure that does contain lactic acid groups and the binder - but most certainly it is not chemically identical to PLA. It contains, according to the MSDS, Polyurethane acrylate as the 'binder', 1,6-Hexanediol diacrylate Monomers, and about 10 % photo inhibitors and pigments. The main selling point seems to be, that comparable to PLA, it would be made from a renewable source to a larger part. The chemical reaction that leads to the completed resin is a question I have pitched on Chemistry.SE.
It needs to be cleaned with IPA (isopropyl alcohol) or another organic solvent like any standard resin and you are not allowed to rinse the material into the sewer: it is classed as a `LONG-TERM AQUATIC HAZARD - Category 4` and its MSDS contains:
> Solubility：Soluble in ethanol, ethyl acetate, benzene and other organic solvents, insoluble in water
### water-washable eSun Resin
eSun offers no water-soluble resin at all, they offer a **water washable** resin, which means that it is supposed to be less toxic than standard resin and safe to rinse effectively without IPA, creating less toxic waste in the process. The MSDS for this is not (yet)) available so I can't evaluate this. However, I have requested the MSDS for the evaluation of safety procedures needed and hope to hear back from them soon. This resin is most certainly not PVA, but it seems to be chemically somewhat similar to their other resins.
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Tags: resin
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thread-14250 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14250 | How do I remove a stuck resin print | 2020-08-14T12:41:14.197 | # Question
Title: How do I remove a stuck resin print
I have stuck resin print that won't detach from the bed of my Creality LD-002R LCD Printer. I guess I could break the print off piece by piece, but it won't budge with pressure, pulling with all my strength, or even hitting it pretty hard.
# Answer
There are generally 3 ways, in order of least to most desirable, and at times you need to combine them in an escalation:
* Toss the vat. This is the most expensive and generally should only be the last resort, for example, if you damage your film.
* Careful Brute Force. This can damage the film, but carefully getting a wedge between the film and the print might be the only option to remove the last bits sticking to the film. If you have to resort to this, **take your time**.
* Using thermal expansion. We all know that materials expand when you heat them. The reverse is also true: materials shrink if you cool them. Different materials shrink differently. So by cooling the vat with as little liquid resin and the print inside can lead to the print 'popping' free, just like in an FDM printer. Note however that this might not work on its own in case you made a suction cup (then you need to resort to brute force or drill a hole into the top), and you should take **extreme caution not to contaminate any food with resin**, as the stuff is not safe for consumption at all. With the right setup, you might be able to heat the build plate carefully while the print itself is kept cool.
> 2 votes
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Tags: resin, creality-ld-002r
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thread-14252 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14252 | How to prepare bed for printing ABS filament? | 2020-08-14T21:56:15.140 | # Question
Title: How to prepare bed for printing ABS filament?
I have never used ABS filament before, so my question is, how do I prepare my **glass** build plate for printing ABS filament?
My second question, is, after you have prepared it, and have finished printing, can you 3d print with other plastics, such as PLA after?
# Answer
ABS can be a problem to print, but there are generally a couple well established methods to prepare your glass bed, which might be combined for best results:
* Heated bed. A heated bed is almost a must for ABS and would be set to about 75 to 90 °C for most printers. Often this can suffice on its own, but keep the bed running for the whole print!
* ABS-Slurry. One of the best functioning adhesive helpers is ABS-Slurry, which is made by mixing a little acetone with as much ABS filament as it will solve, then applying a thin layer of this compound to the glass bed right before the print. It will stink a lot, but it most certainly will offer one of the best adhesions you can get and might even prevent Warping due to the stronger bond to the bed.
* Rafts. You might want to add a raft of at least 2 layers under the print. The Raft can be removed in the end, but it increases the surface area and can often help to reduce the chance of warping.
Now comes the good part: you just need to remove all the ABS residue and the bed is ready for the next preparation for any other material. This can be done with a scraper blade quite easily, maybe some Acetone and then alcohol if there are some really nasty bits.
> 1 votes
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Tags: pla, abs, adhesion, glass-bed
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thread-14248 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14248 | LCD/DLP resin curing system | 2020-08-13T02:50:15.843 | # Question
Title: LCD/DLP resin curing system
I'm trying to develop a device to burn a glass slide surface with a special pattern of UV light (between 300 nm and 360 nm) in a 5 cm square surface.
I've read several threads asking questions about LCD printers and their way of functioning but I am not entirely sure how they work. So far I have found two methods that explain LCD printers:
1. The LCD screen emits light in UV spectrum that causes the resin to cure. *I don't believe there are any LCD screens that can emit at 360 nm.*
2. Initially there's a UV light bulb 'behind' the LCD screen which is translucent when off. The pattern is drawn in the LCD screen interfering with UV light's path drawing the image in the plate.
If option two is the right one, do you know any devices (uv light and lcd screen) to develop what I want within the 360 nm wavelength?
Alternatively, can a DLP projector to emit UV light (by adding a UV light bulb)? Would it still need to be cured?
# Answer
It's almost always what you call system 2:
The LCD screen is acting as a "mask" for the UV backlight, which is a strong bulb under it. This also is the reason that the screen degrades over time and that the machines need replacement bulbs: the heat from the UV source burns out the screen and itself over time. Both parts are consumable, just like the screen.
You could technically swap out the light source for any one that fits the machine. However, a 360 nm light source won't help you for printing resins at all: most resins you can buy cure between 395 and 410 nm.
Yes, even by curing with an UV light source, you need to post-cure the print. The reason for that is to get rid of any uncured, not washed away resin that still sticks to the surface and that a 3D print right of the platform actually isn't cured fully - especially the inter-layer-bonds are not formed fully and curing in the lightbox increases the stability to the print a lot.
> 1 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, sla, resin, dlp, lcd-screen
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thread-14257 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14257 | Resin printer build plate scratches/ damage | 2020-08-15T14:36:13.300 | # Question
Title: Resin printer build plate scratches/ damage
I have an anycubic photon, and occasionally have trouble removing prints from the build plate. While trying to removing prints I've put some scratches into the surface, as I guess I've come in at the wrong angle trying to get under and leverage the print. Typical examples I've seen of people removing prints, they appear to come at it hard with a blunt edge. I've come across scrapers that are blunt and some with a sharper edges.
I've put a bit more a ding into my plate today, using a scraper with more of a blade edge for a difficult to remove print. I had used the same scrapper before with great success, as it slide right under and I could leverage the print, but struggled with it today and scratched up my plate. I haven't come across much discussion on this so thought I'd ask about scratches to the build plates.
Are scratches to the build plate something to be concerned about, is it something that it expected when removing prints?
# Answer
> 1 votes
One of the resources I've found is a forum with a discussion of the impact of scratches.
The general consensus is that scratches are not a problem, as long as there are no burrs above the surface of the plate that would damage the bottom of the vat. One posting party has used 36 grit on a palm sander followed by scotchbrite pad to resurface his plate, but one takes the risk of creating an out-of-plane surface.
A better method to sand a plate would be to place the sandpaper on a glass surface or something equally flat and planar and pass the build plate repeatedly over that.
Another aspect of the discussion was that scratches are good, as the rough surface provides a better bond to the resin.
You're likely to note that your build plate is not a polished smooth surface for the same reason.
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Tags: build-plate, resin, build-surface
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thread-14259 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14259 | Vertical vs Horizontal shapes printing | 2020-08-15T18:28:53.073 | # Question
Title: Vertical vs Horizontal shapes printing
first time here.
I recently bought an Anycubic Mega S and I'm venturing in the 3D world. Lots to learn for sure. I have printed a few items so far and all went pretty well.
My question is about something that caught my attention while browsing on Thingiverse. I was looking for an organizer for a board game that I have and every option I found there shows the piece in a vertical position rather than horizontal which seems like the natural position of the piece.
I would like to know why most of this types of pieces are set to be printed in a vertical position rather than horizontal.
Here is the original piece Betrayal at Baldur's Gate Organizer by Jason Patch. As you can see in the image below the piece is naturally horizontal but the actual files to print (blue ones) are all vertical.
PS.: I didn't really know which tags to use so I just added 3D, feel free to suggest any other I will happily edit it. :)
# Answer
Thingieverse does respect the orientation an item was designed in, just like most slicers will. Designers will often choose any one of the three planes (XY, YZ, ZX) as their first by preference, then work out the other parts in relation to the first. This does often not take into account the actual print orientation it should be printed in.
In the case of this box, you'd have to turn all items around the Y-axis (the front-left to back-right one) by 90°, first to the *front*, then the *back* then to the *front* again, getting almost 0 overhangs.
> 3 votes
# Answer
When I design parts in CAD software I pick a starting plane and go from there. And that starting plane doesn't correspond to how the part is designed to be printed. That usually comes later.
> 1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, print-orientation
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thread-14263 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14263 | PETG grinding with direct drive extruder | 2020-08-17T03:39:07.797 | # Question
Title: PETG grinding with direct drive extruder
I've been wrestling with a filament grinding problem for a few weeks now and I'm stuck.
The problem manifests itself as starting a print alright then extrusion stops while the printer keeps moving. When I pull the filament out I see indents from the gear then a depression where it ground down the filament.
Filament used is 1.75 mm Spool3D PETG on a Hictop printer, which is a clone of a Prusa i3. I don't know the exact part number though. The extruder is direct drive, and the 28 mm heatbreak is connected to a heatsink block rather than something with fins. Nozzle is standard 0.4 mm.
My print settings are quite conservative. Speed is 20 mm/s, retraction is 20 mm/s (though it never grinds on retraction), temperature is 255 °C, which is 10 °C higher than what works in my other printers. No print cooling.
At first I thought there was a clog, but I can push the filament though by hand quite well. I also use cleaning filament frequently and it never pulls out any debris. Heatbreak and nozzle have been changed to fresh items.
Does anybody have any other ideas of things I can try, or should I just get a new extruder?
# Answer
This does sound a lot like you are experiencing the effects of heat creep (How is heat creep characterized?). You should lower the temperature of the hotend and increase the printing speed and retraction speed and possibly lower the retraction length.
---
*If this is heat creep, a new extruder will not help you until you solve the heat creep first. A new hotend that can be cooled better might be a better solution.*
> 3 votes
# Answer
Additionally to the answer of @0scar:
1. If the problem happens in the first layer, it can be that the z-offset is not properly setup: if the first layer is too thin, the printer cannot extrude (enough) plastic, and the filament will warm until the gear cannot extrude it any more. The solution is to have the perfect first layer thickness (so it stick well, but extrude the correct plastic amount).
2. Release a bit the gear pressure on the filament: If the gear is too tight, with the temperature, it start to penetrate/deform the filament, and then is not able to move it.
> 3 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, hotend, petg
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thread-14158 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14158 | Strange behaviour x and y axis - corner of print | 2020-08-01T07:03:22.037 | # Question
Title: Strange behaviour x and y axis - corner of print
Some background to the problem:
Several months ago I started getting poor print quality in one section of my prints (back left corner of bed) - I diagnosed that the plastic X axis carriage and the right Y axis carriage had distorted from heat over a period of 4 years running my Wanhao D4S, and the linear bearings no longer aligned properly. I found a long gouge in the right Y axis rod and have replaced this.
I have since replaced all plastic carriages with aluminium to eliminate any potential distortion in the future.
Additionally, the 5 mm rods running in the X direction in both front and back of the printer also had slight bends in them, and I have replaced both these with 8 mm rods to enhance rigidity and prevent further bending problems. With the bent rods there was a very noticeable vibration.
The issue I am now facing is the front right corner of test cubes I have been printing (see attached photo) are not sharp - they are okay at about the top and bottom quarter, but in the middle it is as if the X and Y axes are not travelling far enough to the front right corner, and the corner is cut off diagonally and tapers inwards slightly like an hourglass. But as mentioned really only in this one corner. The issue is most apparent where indicated by the arrows - although the others also exhibit to a small degree the same issue.
I have aligned all belts and pulleys, and made sure the belts are tight enough to "twang" but this does not seem to help. All pulleys have also been re-tightened.
The printer also does seem to still have a vibration when moving along the Y axis, and is much louder than the X axis movement (which is barely noticeable).
When the belts are disconnected both X and Y axes move by hand smoothly.
Has anyone seen this issue before, or can offer a solution? My next step was to check stepper driver current, although I don't believe this to be the problem as the issue is very consistent in its placement.
I think also overall, print quality in general is not as good as it once was before the initial troubles with the carriages started.
To help install the rear 8 mm rod, I unscrewed the two Z axis rods, but to the best of my knowledge they are in their original position. They also move smoothly.
# Answer
> 2 votes
After one further check (stepper driver current/VREF), which I didn't think could be the problem due to not adjusting to cause the problem; it turns out this actually was the problem.
All stepper drivers have been reset back to correct VREF for their respective motors minus 10% as a safety margin and everything is printing well again.
I have no idea how VREF could have changed by itself, however thermal expansion on the boards due to constant use may be an explanation.
For anyone else experiencing similar issues and who have discounted the stepper drivers as the problem, I suggest resetting VREF to see if that helps.
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Tags: print-quality
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thread-14275 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14275 | Curing a resin print | 2020-08-18T15:07:28.153 | # Question
Title: Curing a resin print
After a resin print completes, what is the expected process to finish the print? Is some cleaning expected? I also some manufacturers sell UV chambers to cure the print surface, is this required?
I purchased a low-cost printer from China that is quite high-quality hardware, but sadly short on documentation. Insight on the proper post-print process is appreciated.
# Answer
# Yes
You need to do a two-step post-processing:
## Washing
This is basically as easy as taking the print and dropping it into a vat of Isopropyl alcohol and vigorously shaking it to get all the liquid resin off. Careful, the resulting contaminated IPA is to be treated as **toxic waste**.
The reason why you wash the print is to make sure no resin stays on it and cures, distorting the print or altering the measurements.
## Post-Print-curing
The next step is just having the item sit in UV light to cure thoroughly, which means either having it sit outside in sunlight or under a UV lamp. Under sunlight, it might take a few hours, under a UV lamp, it depends on how thick the object is and you might need to turn and rotate the printed part. Note that some resins, especially transparent ones, can change their coloration when exposed to sunlight, both during or after curing.
Curing is done to ensure all the resin is fully cured and get the full stiffness out of the print - sometimes prints are still somewhat malleable before giving them time to cure.
> 1 votes
# Answer
You don't really need a UV curing chamber but wash it with 99 % isopropyl alcohol and put it in bright sun, this should do the trick!!
> 1 votes
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Tags: resin
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thread-14279 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14279 | Increase hotend temperature on Monoprice Ultimate 2 | 2020-08-19T07:10:50.667 | # Question
Title: Increase hotend temperature on Monoprice Ultimate 2
I'm fairly new to 3D printing and I have a Monoprice Ultimate 2. The Monoprice website says it can reach 250 °C with a 100 °C bed temperature.
I want to print some projects using Matterhacks Nylonx, its recommended printing temperature is 250 °C to 265 °C.
* Could I print it on the stock max setting of 250 °C or will it not adhere correctly?
* Can I increase the print temperature by replacing the hotend with an E3D hotend?
+ If so how hot could I get the hotend and how would I go about doing that?
There is not many resources about Monoprice products. Any help is greatly appreciated.
# Answer
Ok, first of all you need to understand why the limit is given at 250 °C: that's when the hotend design chosen by the Monoprice starts to destroy its PETG liner. To print hotter, you'd need an unlined hotend, which means you'd need a proper all metal hotend.
A proper all metal hodend is **a tradeoff**, not an upgrade: you sacrifice some ease of printing and risk some clogs in the lower temperature band for being able to print higher temperatures.
When you want to buy an e3D hotend, you should go for a genuine one, as many clones are actually not all metal. Also note, that there are other all-metal hotends around.
If you get an e3D v6, you should make sure to buy the right variant for your machine! Monoprice tells us, that this is a **24 V** Machine, so you'll need to get the 24 V Variant! As you also will swap the temperature sensor, you might need to update your firmware according to the e3D installation manual. Since a genuine hotend comes with all the cabling and a new thermosensor, you'll need to rewire the whole machine - and you might need to make new fittings before installing. The *standard* e3D Thermistor that comes with the hotend is good up to 285 °C, which will be your new ceiling temperature. Take careful note of these two parts that appear in the before assembly notes section of the manual:
* The standard V6 is capable of printing up to 285°C, **do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the Thermistor cartridge with a PT100**, the Aluminium heater block with a Plated copper heater block, and the Brass nozzle for a Plated copper, Hardened steel or Nozzle X.
* **Firmware modification is not optional it is a mandatory step.**
> 1 votes
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Tags: hotend, replacement-parts, monoprice-maker-ultimate, nylon, carbon
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thread-14285 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14285 | How to improve printing over 100 mm/s with 0.8 mm nozzle? | 2020-08-19T15:18:52.323 | # Question
Title: How to improve printing over 100 mm/s with 0.8 mm nozzle?
It has been a long journey failing and printing over and over to be able to print at faster speeds. All I did mostly was trial and error. I am currently trying to wrap my head around a problem that has been asked by user:1998 (mhelvens): *Can we manage to make a uniform formula for printing very fast with high temperatures?* (Increasing hotend temperature to compensate for increased filament throughput)
Using Ender 3, Hero Me Gen5 with E3D V6 volcano, mdd kit 1.2, Klipper firmware
When I start printing at 215 °C (recommended temperature for my filament) everything is alright, because of initial layer speed...
When I come to 100 mm/s the print clearly fails, the plastic doesn't stick, it even swirls up and is just too solid and then it damages the nozzle when it bumps in to it...
If I start at high temperature, the print is failing at the start and then doing ok, which is equally as bad
When I have high temperature and high speed the print wont stick at the beginning...
The solution in my opinion is to gradually increase speed with temperature, adding that as a function of the firmware. Also probably involving filament flow % and pressure\_advance...
Is there a formula for what I'm asking?
Can we implement it in the software or does this have to be done through trial and error all the goddamn time?
# Answer
There are no ready solutions. Check on Klipper Github to see if someone requested that, but I doubt it has been implemented.
100 mm/s with 0.8 line width and something like 0.3 mm layer height results in 24 mm^3/s. It's quite high already, since the Volcano is rated at about 20 mm^3/s.
What you could try to do is to take the GCODE you have, calculate the layer time and the total path length for each layer to get the average extrusion rate, and introduce at the beginning of each layer a M104 command with a temperature dependent on said rate.
For example, you could add 1 °C for each mm^3/s of extrusion rate starting at 15 mm^3/s.
If you want, you could also calculate the average extrusion rate not every layer but every 50 mm of extrusion. In this case, better anticipate the temperature command by one stretch, since it takes time to adapt.
Otherwise you need a Supervolcano, or a slight overvoltage of the hotend (remember that power goes with the square of voltage, so do not go above 10% overvoltage).
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3, firmware, speed, e3d-volcano
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thread-14283 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14283 | Curated resin size shrink (and methods to reduce it) | 2020-08-19T11:25:11.097 | # Question
Title: Curated resin size shrink (and methods to reduce it)
I've recently purchased an Elegoo Mars Pro 3D printer.
I've read about that percentage of resin shapes going smaller and I understand that. But are slicers (or software which help with the joints) already taking that into consideration? Resines vary, and with them that percentage varies too, so is the software applying that error margin or am I the one responsible on this?
Also, is that shrink percentage constant? Like everytime I print 5 mm it will shrink to 4.7 mm, or it depends on how is curated and other random values so it could be one 4.6 mm and the next printed shape to be 4.8 mm?
It depends on the curation process, or the printing process? If I print 2 separated parts alltogether in one single print session, both will have the same shrinkage, or it will depend on the curation process of each of them individually?
## If it's not constant...
How can I ensure that all parts printed separately will fit together when joined later on and it won't create a sort of Frankenstein figure where nothing fits? Is there any process to reduce that shrinking to a minimum, even if it takes longer for each shape to cure?
I'm not referring to "clipping parts", but edges and so. If I join two separate parts together, and one of them is smaller than the other because of the shrink of the resin, then the edges won't fit and won't be a clean join.
# Answer
Generally, this behavior isn't well reearched as of this moment, and it would be dependant on your specific resin. While I can't tell you if your resin is affected by shrink or even uneven shrink, I can give you the method of how to investigate:
* Download or design a cube with a well-known dimension. I'd suggest a cube of 20 mm side length. It's best to indent the orientation onto the surfaces. One such model would be thing 3090144, which has a version that is hollow and has a hole to let out resin, but there are others.
* Align the X, Y and Z with the letter into the positive side of the axis in your slicer.
* Print.
* After Printing, clean and cure
* Only after curing, measure the X and Y and Z dimensions with calipers.
* Calculate shrinkage: Measurement divided by 20 gets you the shrinkage or expansion, multiply by 100 for percent.
> 1 votes
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Tags: post-processing, sla, resin
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thread-14284 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14284 | SLA resin post-processing: gluing parts together | 2020-08-19T12:06:53.827 | # Question
Title: SLA resin post-processing: gluing parts together
I've recently purchased an Elegoo Mars Pro 3d printer, and I was wondering when printing large pieces that need to be printed in different steps: is there some kind of post-processing to make it more suitable for gluing them?
I know of joints and so on, but sometimes pieces are big but not thick enough to be able to put a joint somewhere, so I guess the only solution would be to glue them.
Should I use some kind of specific glue to get better results with resins? Is there any process (post-processing, reducing layer height when printing, leave the resin being curated more time...) to improve the sticking of the different parts? Or can we go with any kind of "strong multisurface glue" without any further post-processing steps, and the results should be the same in matters of quality?
Thank you!
# Answer
> 2 votes
As I learned after asking about the chemistry of a 3D printing Resin, the material uses radical polymerisation to get a well connected, branched copolymer. It is comparable to resin cast material but more brittle. So let's look, akin to the PLA-gluing question, what we can do!
## Step 0: Safety First!
Some of these methods are working with chemicals that can irritate the skin (resins, cyanoacrylate) or have irritating or flamagle fumes (heated cyanoacrylate).
**Use proper protection** when working with these! Eye protection and respiratory protection, as well as gloves, are to be used when necessary. Read the manual of the products you are working with!
## Preparations
For most glues, it is advisable to prepare the surface: very lightly sand it to increase the surface area, don't touch the prints with bare hands to prevent fingerprints etc. Follow the manual!
## Glues
As a result of the chemistry I would suggest the following glues:
* The resin itself! Carefully applying a thin layer of the printing resin onto the cured parts and then pressing the parts together before letting it cure again will get you a good bond that might not even be visible as you have exactly the same material. Note though, that you might be able to assemble the part between washing and curing for absolute minimal visibility of the gluing surface and maximum bonding. Also note, that for a non-transparent resin (fully opaque to 400 nm light) you'd better look for a different gluing system, as the bond will be much weaker if it can harden only at the edge.
* Cyanoacrylate, aka Superglue. This glue is pretty much a one-serves-all, though it might cloud your surface. Also, not all superglues are the same, and some might work better than others or store differently.
+ Together with talcum powder, CA glue can fill gaps easily.
+ CA is not stable under heating and when heated too much, if breaks apart into a rather noxious fume!
* 2-phase epoxy or polyurethane. Another *glues everything* category, that should work rather well. The epoxy bonds are harder, the polyurethane ones are a little more flexible, but both bond very well with cured resin. As resin prints don't really deform under heat, you might take even faster-curing types.
* 2-phase Putty - in a similar vein come 2-phase putties like Green Stuff or Miliputt, which harden after mixing. Their heat generation isn't too big and they allow to fill gaps easily. My favorite stuff though is not the expensive modeling putty but the stuff from the home depot: stuff like Pattex Repair<sup>sorry, no English site for this</sup> or UHU Repair All Powerkitt harden within an hour, are surprisingly cheap and get a smooth surface.
## Other methods?
Unlike PLA, we can **not** use thermic methods to add inserts, friction-weld or weld/solder two parts together as **Resin prints are generally not thermoplastic.**
# Answer
> 3 votes
You can definitely use glue - however you can also brush some of the liquid resin along the edges of the two pieces, push them together and cure them, this will fuse them together.
You don't need much, and you need to watch for drip out while curing (don't your fingers in it)
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Tags: post-processing, sla
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thread-14291 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14291 | SLA printers: safety with resin contaminated disposals | 2020-08-19T21:00:18.697 | # Question
Title: SLA printers: safety with resin contaminated disposals
I've purchased an Elegoo Mars Pro recently, and I've been watching hundreds of video of all kind of processes, and everyone tells the same: resin is toxic, so you should cure it before throwing it to the trash, otherwise it must be treated as toxic waste.
But I've not been able to find anything with "things that are contaminated with it". For example, if I touch with some paper the resin, I guess that I should let it cure in the sun (like putting it in a plastic box and let it cure, maybe?).
But how about the IPA? **How do I treat the rests of IPA contaminated with uncured resin?** I don't think leaving something flammable into the sunlight during some hours is the best I can do (maybe I'm wrong and it's totally safe?).
Also, are resins water-washable (like this one from Elegoo) as toxic as the rest? **Can I wash them in the faucet**, or should I use a plastic recipient with just water and wash them there? What do I do with it once I finish? May I throw it into the bath, or let it cure into the sunlight, or...?
Hope this helps me and some others to treat resin disposals as they should be! Thank you!
# Answer
> 1 votes
The IPA with the resin in it is a chemical waste and toxic to nature. As such, it needs to be given to a chemical waste handler. But those handlers do charge by volume, so you need to find a way to handle volumes reasonably. On the one hand, this means to not use huge volumes for washing the prints but reasonably small batches, and on the other hand to try to saturate them as much as possible before giving them to disposal.
It is not safe to leave the IPA in the sun or close to a source of flame, and it would certainly be not a good idea to try to torch the IPA to try to reduce the volume, but you might manage to try to concentrate the toxic waste if you might have access to a vacuum distillation apparatus - the IPA would be able to be distilled over to be reused while the original material would end concentrated.
At the moment I am waiting for an MSDS of eSun's Water-Washable resin, but the Eleegoo one is available, and it reads that it is classed as "Aquatic Chronic Class 2" - that's better than the Class 4 which IPA-washing resins have, but it is still not Sewer-safe: `Do not allow product to reach sewage system or any water source`. However, water is much less of a dangerous base for the waste than IPA, making it easier to handle. This mixture too needs to go to a chemical waste handler or be made inert but the waste also can be concentrated with less danger than IPA using a similar apparatus (cold distilling out water) or even a dedicated waste cookpot/evaporation vat that is exposed to heat - though you clearly should do this in a chemical-grade air filtration unit to mitigate the chance of resin fumes escaping into the atmosphere or your work environment if you heat it more than some. The dissolved resin might not be able to cure anymore as the photoinitiator might be used up during it evaporating.
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Tags: post-processing, resin, safety, cleaning, disposal
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thread-14296 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14296 | What's the best stepper motor for BMG with very high extrusion rates? | 2020-08-20T15:47:13.933 | # Question
Title: What's the best stepper motor for BMG with very high extrusion rates?
I was recommended to buy a **pancake stepper motor** for a **direct drive BMG extruder**, however I would like to ask if the decrease in torque would still be enough to **work with V6 Volcano or SuperVolcano**.
If so, should I buy this pancake stepper motor and how should I configure my current setting when switching them?
# Answer
A BMG extruder can be used in conjunction with the E3Dv6 hotend, the Volcano and the Super Volcano are upgrade parts for the E3Dv6 (see e3d-online), they are just differently sized heater blocks you can use to replace the normal heater block to increase the volumetric flow. In fact, it is just a v6 with a different heater block (and heater cartridge, longer nozzle threading, and often and a larger nozzle diameter). The increased heater blocks will allow for an enlarged melting zone. Although this increased melting zone, the extra length of walls will not significantly increase the resistance, most resistance comes from compressing the filament diameter to the nozzle diameter.
Note that the BMG is a similar direct extruder type as the Titan, which is produced and sold by E3D; this extruder is capable of using the Volcano upgrades using their standard pancake stepper motor (according to E3D website). You can buy these stepper motors at their website. The reason a pancake stepper is recommended is because of weight reduction (direct drive extruders carry the extruder stepper on the X-axis carriage), these extruder types gear down the speed and thus increasing the torque, a normal stepper would be too heavy and too powerful. Note that this may be a different case for 2.85 mm filament; this requires more torque anyways.
> 1 votes
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Tags: extruder, stepper-driver, e3d-v6, e3d-volcano
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thread-14294 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14294 | SLA printers: food-safe resin parts | 2020-08-20T06:47:28.257 | # Question
Title: SLA printers: food-safe resin parts
I've actually read that resin printed parts are not food-safe in Reddit and Formlabs guide. However, it also says that **food-safe can be achieved applying some kind of food-safe coat** to the printed parts, or even **printing with ceramic resin**.
As an owner of a Elegoo Mars Pro, I've searched for the second - **ceramic resin - and I've found nothing**, so I guess it's only suited for more expensive and professional printers.
But regarding the food-safe coatings, is there any recommendation on **which and how to apply them** for resin printed objects? Is there any other way to achieve food-safe resin printed parts? Maybe are there food-safe resins, even though they may be more expensive (I haven't been able to find any)?
The scenarios I think that have to be considered are four:
* Prints to be used for **liquids**: like mugs and coffee cups, or recipients to hold drinks in the fridge, for example.
* Prints to be used for **solids**: just recipients to put dried fruits, nuts, olives...
* Prints to be used while eating, which some **tools** **may interact** with: plates, bowls, which will be in contact with knifes, forks, and some other material that could scratch it.
* Prints to be **in contact with the mouth**: this would be maybe a mix of the other, but would include forks, spoons, mugs...
I guess that the cleaning and maintenance will depend on the process to make them food-safe.
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I've been searching for the net, and I've found these kind of epoxy resins. I see people use them and say it's food-safe, but I cannot see it stated anywhere. Maybe are those what I'm looking for? Maybe not because some of them are for wood (maybe they can be used in other suraces, too?)? Some samples:
Hope to find a little bit of knowledge to increase safety when printing some parts and being careful about the different applications that our prints may have.
Thank you!
# Answer
## Resin basics
Resins are tricky, but probably less tricky than FDM as the manufacturing process is much less likely to include contaminants in the shape of contaminated air, particles, or adding lead into the print. This is all due to the whole process of creating the polymer happening under the protection of the resin, which in its monomeric liquid state is so toxic that it is unlikely any bacteria can survive in it. But before going out on a spending spree, you need to be aware that there are basically 3 kinds of resins on the market, only one of them is for SLA. To know exactly what you get you'd need to read the MSDS, which is usually available by the manufacturer of the resin.
* Two-component resins as you found in the lower half of the question. You might know them as Epoxy or Polyurethane resins. They have a base material and a hardener, sometimes called Component A and B. If mixed *perfectly*, they cure fully, neither hardener nor resin remains. This means it is chemically inert.
* Air-curing resins. These two come as Polyurethanes and also Acrylates and you might know them better under the terms paint, lacquer or coating.
* Light-cured resins, as you find them in SLA resins and all coatings that are not air-curing. These are for SLA a strange chemical mixture of a photoinitiator and then some monomers that create a copolymer while coatings can be as easy as having some initiators and the rest is a single type of monomer.
## Food safety?
There are some resins is on the list of FDA approved plastics for food contact. The list is exclusive: if your plastic doesn't fit one of the listed ones, you can not use it. One example would be polyacrylate, which is defined as being "formed by melt polycondensation of bisphenol-A with diphenylisophthalate and diphenylterephthalate" - which excludes any other method of getting a polyacrylate and it prescribes exactly what basic materials are allowed.
As a result, many two-component resins and light-cured resins that don't match the exact chemistry and method to create an approved plastic/coating will not match the FDA approval list and won't get approval *on their own*.
## Coating
But there is often a way out by applying a proper coating, for example with a sufficiently thick food-grade Polyurethane coating for dry foods. This would render the item *food safe* under FDA standards for the approved appication. You'd need to adhere to the proper method to apply this coating (manufacturers add those to the labeling usually), which can at times be somewhat complicated.
## Insert
Another way might be to add an insert that does follow FDA standards, for example, a steel cup for liquids.
> 3 votes
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Tags: sla, safety, resin, food
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thread-14305 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14305 | Can parts that have warped (after being printed) be un-warped? | 2020-08-23T08:06:32.423 | # Question
Title: Can parts that have warped (after being printed) be un-warped?
I have an on-going project to build a large lampshade in the shape of a geodesic dome. It's made of 3D printed frames that will be covered with rice paper. I printed the parts in PLA over a month or so, but then had to ship them from Europe to Japan due to moving house.
Unfortunately, when they arrived a lot of them had warped quite badly. In retrospect they weren't packed very well, and they probably got quite hot while travelling through the tropics in a shipping container.
I'm wondering if there is any reasonable way to un-warp parts that have warped in this way. Specifically, if I heat them up again, will they go back to their original shape, or will that just make it worse?
Here's a photo to show what the parts look like. The problem was a lot more obvious before I assembled it, but I didn't think to take a photo - here you can see that some of the edges aren't dead straight, but when they're not clipped to the other parts they're a lot worse. The edge of each triangle is a bit less than 20cm in length.
I'd really appreciate any tips. It'd be a shame if this project ended up not looking perfect after so much printing time.
# Answer
> 1 votes
PLA stays a thermoplastic in printed shape. And as you saw when unpacking your things, tropical heat and force are enough to get a lasting deformation. Other people had PLA prints ruined from having them sit in the car, I had seen deformation on a purple print I had let sit in the sun on an edge.
This also means that the reverse is true: under load to shape the part and some heat you can try to unbend parts. A hairdryer air of about 60-80 °C, which is more than enough to make PLA formable.
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Tags: pla, post-processing, warping
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thread-14301 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14301 | MOSFET burned and high heated bed resistance | 2020-08-21T17:11:25.637 | # Question
Title: MOSFET burned and high heated bed resistance
I am a newbie to 3D printing and I am making a 3D printer from scratch (Cartesian). I've got a RAMPS 1.4 shield and an Arduino Mega 2560 board. I have a few questions and it would be very nice if I can get answers.
The onboard MOSFET (STP55NFO6L) for the heatbed is dead and I think that the reason is because of the high resistance of my heat bed (1.8 Ω).
I have searched a lot and I am fully confused about what to do.
1. I am thinking of buying an external MOSFET and wire it up with the RAMPS fan MOSFET (STP55NF06L) and use the same heat bed.
2. Buy an external MOSFET and replace the onboard MOSFET (dead one) with the fan MOSFET (because of the underlying 11 A circuit) and use same heatbed.
3. Same as 2., but buying a new heatbed also.
4. Buying a RAMPS 1.6 and use old heatbed.
I am totally confused because of lot of searching. Please anybody help me. What should I do?
# Answer
The resistance of the heated bed being *too high* can not have caused the MOSFET to burn out. Only a *too low* resistance could cause that.
Keep in mind that measuring relatively low resistances (such as the one of your heated bed) is difficult, and if you just used a regular multimeter it might indicate a wrong value (e.g. due to the resistance of the test leads or a poor connection between the probe and heated bed). Therefore, the actual resistance might be (slightly) lower.
A 1.8 Ω heated bed at 12 V will draw around 7 A of current. This is well within the capabilities of the MOSFET on board of the RAMPS. So either the resistance of the heated bed is lower than you measured (if the resistance was 1.2 Ω or lower this could cause the MOSFET to burn out), or you simply got unlucky with the quality of your RAMPS board.
The (supposedly) high resistance definitely doesn't make the heated bed compatible with 24 V. Using a 1.8 Ω bed with 24 V would cause a 13 A current draw and 320 W of power. This is a lot more than is sensible for a 214 mm x 214 mm bed.
All of the alternatives 1 and 4 you have listed are reasonable options. There is no reason (option 3) to replace the heated bed as there is no indication it is faulty. I see no reason to take option 2 since it involves desoldering and resoldering the fan MOSFET for no reason (if you are using an external MOSFET the fuse is no longer a limitation). There is a chance you'll damage the MOSFET doing this and option 1 only requires a trivial firmware change.
Option 4 (upgrading to RAMPS 1.6) is purely a matter of personal preference.
> 2 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, heated-bed, ramps-1.4, arduino-mega-2650, mosfet
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thread-11013 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11013 | Slicer is adding additional floor bed | 2019-09-14T09:14:29.417 | # Question
Title: Slicer is adding additional floor bed
I'm trying to print an architectural model of a house with 2 floors and a room on the roof. It was designed in SketchUp by a friend. I removed inner walls and floors to print it upside down to get just the outer look of that building. All is good in SketchUp and in Meshlab (converted `.skp` to `.3ds`) and even after exporting it to `.stl` format. But when I slice it and select preview, it is adding a floor on its own. Please take a look at the attached screenshots to get a better idea of what I am referring to. Any idea what's causing this and how it can be solved?
(Using Ultimaker Cura 4.1.0 for slicing at 0.2 mm layer height)
# Answer
SketchUp has a problem with generating the normals of an STL in the right way. As you see in the slicer, the model claims, that the "tops" are overhangs, which means that the whole model is "inside out" with the normals.
To fix that, you'd need to open the file in a program that can fix that by recalculating the normals. I suggest blender:
* Open Blender
* Delete the cube by clicking on it and pressing the `delete` button
* Import the STL via Drag & Drop or the menu
* Change to edit mode in the top left corner
* `A` to select everything
* `ALT` \+ `N` to recalculate normals
* `N` then under `Mesh Display > Normals` hook `Faces`
Now, your model should look like a hedgehog, each face having a blue line poking out.
It *also* should show if there are any faces remaining, which can be selected and deleted manually by clicking it, so that only it is highlighted, and then pressing `delete`
> 1 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, 3d-models, slicing, support-structures
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thread-13501 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13501 | Hotend on a Neutron printer: E3D vs MK8 | 2020-04-23T14:56:56.760 | # Question
Title: Hotend on a Neutron printer: E3D vs MK8
I own a Creality Ender 3 printer, and have been printing on it for about a year.
I thought it might be fun and instructive to build a Neutron printer (https://cobyhuang.com/ATOM-Neutron) using my Ender 3 to print the parts.
The Neutron printer can use either an E3D hotend, or an ATOM 2.5 MK3 hotend.
I think that the E3D hotend is more common, so I think that is the one I'll go with.
It occurs to me that the heater block for an E3D hotend uses an M6 thread for the heat break and the nozzle. Likewise, my Ender 3's heater block also uses M6 threads.
Here is my question, it is possible to replace the heater block and nozzle on an E3D hotend with a heater block and nozzle from an Ender 3? Not that I'd disassemble my Ender 3 mind you, but it would be nice to have one set of interchangeable parts.
# Answer
> 1 votes
# Yes, but...
Technically, you can reuse your old heater block and nozzles and just buy a new heartbreak and cooling body or the other way around. However, you might run into problems under working conditions, especially if you install the heater block together with its native heating cartridge and thermosensor. Installing a thermosensor to which the printer is not adjusted to can lead to all kinds of problems - Firmware update is a must!
Another source of trouble could stem from not taking care in the change itself. The Makerbot MK8 seals the hotend by pressing the liner against the nozzle, which itself is seated against the heartbreak, just like the e3D lite6 seals itself. On the other hand an all-metal e3D v6 seals itself by seating the heartbreak against the nozzle on a larger area. If the seal is imperfect, the Makerbot Mk8 style tends to leak out through the top. Such a leak can leave plastic in the threading which has to be removed carefully before reusing.
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Tags: e3d-v6, makerbot-mk8
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thread-14310 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14310 | Can I mix TMC drivers with A4988 on the same RAMPS board? | 2020-08-23T10:10:05.100 | # Question
Title: Can I mix TMC drivers with A4988 on the same RAMPS board?
The closest thing I can find is this wiki page that state DRV8825 and A4988 can be mixed. However, the TMCs seem different, requiring more connections and offer more features, so I wonder if they can be used on the same RAMPS board with A4988, particularly for X and Y axis.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Yes you can mix different drivers, including the TMC drivers (e.g. using for X and Y only).
How you do that is described in this instructable.
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*Please do note that, from observations, the 8-bit based Arduino boards and shields such as the RAMPS are becoming more or less obsolete; the 32-bit based controller boards are becoming mainstream. Such boards have a lot more potential in execution speed, memory and more available options for peripherals.*
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Tags: stepper-driver, ramps, tmc2130
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thread-14313 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14313 | What is the strongest filament type? | 2020-08-23T13:07:19.653 | # Question
Title: What is the strongest filament type?
I'm looking for a filament that is strong, doesn't crack and doesn't break easily and is impact resistant. I'm currently using PLA and it's strong, but, I'm looking for something that doesn't snap or break when dropped.
# Answer
> 3 votes
PEEK may well be the strongest filament out there (and it has other interesting properties to recommend it), but it is very difficult to print and requires a printer designed to operate at high temperatures. If you are still using PLA, your next port of call should be PETG. It is a lot stronger than PLA (although it will shatter if hit hard enough) and it is almost as easy to print. It also gives off hardly any fumes and it can be printed without an enclosure.
# Answer
> 3 votes
ABS is less brittle compared to PLA.
Strength and impact resistance are not the same. For the same Volume and Shape, I get more tensile strength (can apply a larger force without breaking) from steel than rubber. I can however pound the rubber with a hammer many more times than the steel before I break it.
When it comes to impact (finite energy but potentially extremely large forces), general rule is: that which does not bend shall break. Materials and shapes that can bend to help dissipate that energy will help against impact. Outright strength, on the other hand, often is fairly rigid.
When I need both, I'll depend on a strength bearing part and a soft coating for impact. Works for bony animals; works for parts.
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Tags: filament, filament-choice
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thread-14320 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14320 | G-code for activating material preset in Marlin | 2020-08-24T20:24:32.377 | # Question
Title: G-code for activating material preset in Marlin
Is there a G-code command for calling up the material preset?
I know PLA is set with `M145 S0 H190 B40 F255`: how do I activate `S0`, but not from the LCD menu?
# Answer
The `M145` G-code command sets the values for the materials for use by the LCD menu solely to preheat the bed and/or hotend and part fan cooling percentage. There is no code to lookup the values and execute to heat up material 1 (`S0`).
> 3 votes
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Tags: marlin, g-code
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thread-14322 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14322 | Clicking noise from the extruder and no filament coming out | 2020-08-24T21:43:23.013 | # Question
Title: Clicking noise from the extruder and no filament coming out
When trying to print (using 215 °C for the hotend and 65 °C for the bed) there seems to be a clicking and filament stops extruding.
After much work I have cleaned the nozzle and made sure there are no clogs in the machine. However the filament seems to not extrude. When I get the filament out, there are small cuts/marks on the filament. Please see the attached picture for a better view.
I'm not sure if the marks are causing the issue or if there could be something else going on. Any suggestions on how to fix the extruder to push out filament? Everything was working normally until yesterday after I leveled the print bed.
# Answer
> 3 votes
There are a number of points missing, but I can offer a few suggestions. The re-leveling of the bed could have resulted in the bed now being in a position to block the nozzle. I have done exactly that in the past. A clean glass bed makes for a perfect clog.
The marks on the filament fit the description of a hobbed gear (extruder drive bolt) chewing into the filament, which would move only slightly from being blocked at the nozzle.
Additionally, filament temperature may be a factor, although it's difficult to determine with the information provided.
For a test, consider to use the controls available to you to raise the nozzle/lower the bed. Bring the nozzle up to your normal filament temperature. Execute an extrusion of sufficient length to ensure that the filament will reach and exit the nozzle.
If this does not provide extrusion, raise the temperature five degrees C and make another attempt. It may be necessary to raise the temperature in steps more than one time.
Use undamaged filament in these tests to ensure that the damage does not factor into the problem.
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Tags: filament, extruder, monoprice-maker-select
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thread-14327 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14327 | Calibrating a resin printer | 2020-08-27T07:11:30.620 | # Question
Title: Calibrating a resin printer
I have purchased a Creality LD-002R resin printer. It is solid hardware, with a good experience and great value for the price, but it comes with very little documentation.
I am looking at calibration procedure of the print surface. I have read in reference to other printers that it is customary to interpose a sheet of paper when leveling the print surface against the pane of glass. Is this applicable? Are there any other setup recommendations?
# Answer
First of all a caveat:
## Leveling an FDM printer
...is done differently than an SLA/DLP printer When calibrating an **FDM** printer, you align the bed with the X and Y axis, using a paper, metal shim or another tool (such as a feeler gauge) to make sure the plane that the nozzle moves in is *parallel* to the bed as much as possible. The paper, shim and gauge all serve in making sure that the nozzle does not push *into* the bed on the move and to be an easily measurable system. You need to do several measurements and repeat the process till the bed is level. This can take quite some time with paper or shims, which is why I use a feeler gauge in the micrometer area.
## Leveling an SLA/DLP printer
when leveling an SLA/DLP (aka Resin) printer, you also want to align the bed, but you want to align it parallel to the **screen**. The process is rather simple: mount the bed and loosen the retention mechanism, have the printer move down and press the bed against the screen surface. Some printers need to have the (preferably empty and clean) vat installed, others need you to remove it. Tighten the retention mechanism. Move the bed up, you are leveled. Only now comes the resin (and vat!) back. Some printers have their leveling mechanism separated from the mounting screw - that allows removing the bed for taking off the part and keep the leveling intact.
In the case of the Creality ld-002r there's a video Tutorial, the alignment screws are on the **side** of the carriage. Remove your resin vat before leveling. Loosen only those side screw, keep the **top** one fast!
The reason why I suggest to level against an empty vat is to make sure that on the one hand the resin doesn't go bad (it should be exposed to as little light as possible), you are exposed to the least resin fumes as possible and to make sure that no pieces are inside the vat when your printer firmly presses the bed against the screen - it could damage the screen or surface would there be chunks of former prints left in the vat! Also, you don't want to contaminate your tools with resin, which means you want to work on the fasteners with no resin in the vat.
> 2 votes
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Tags: resin, creality-ld-002r
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thread-13271 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13271 | Cura imports FreeCAD stl wrong | 2020-03-29T14:17:12.647 | # Question
Title: Cura imports FreeCAD stl wrong
I am trying to import an STL file, I created in FreeCAD. It has a hole in the hull of the object and behind that hole there are two pins inside the object (see attached FreeCAD screenshot).
When I import the STL in Cura, there are no walls around the whole object where there is the hole in the hull (see attached Cura screenshots). However the wall and the hole are visible in light grey, Cura just doesn't print it.
Update:
I understand the problem. It's not a watertight solid. I found a way to import it somewhat fine using meshmixer to create a hollow with an offset which makes the outer Hull actually have a thickness to it. Now the problem is, that's not really what I want. The result in cura now can't be printed with infill since the actual inside of the model is only within the walls. Also cura sees both sides of the wall as outer Perimeter. I understand the problem but actually am looking for a way to just prevent printing part of the regular model's wall.. In other words: I would basically like to set the whall line count to zero in that particular area. I just tried to use the support blocker and "Modify settings for overlap" but that doesn't do anything.
CURA:
FreeCAD:
# Answer
I suspect that your method to create the hole for the pins may not be consistent with the modeling practice that FreeCad and other programs of this nature require.
Consider the following:
Import your base shape. Create a second shape that matches the hole you wish to create. It must be a solid object, not a plane or other single surface item.
Consult one of the many FreeCad tutorials that present the method to use next, that is to place the shape to be subtracted in the desired location, then perform a Boolean operation involving both objects. In the linked tutorial, it's referred to as a cut, which is an accurate description.
Performing this action will create a surface where the two objects intersect, removing the smaller one, leaving a solid, rather than a zero thickness surface.
You would then create and place the cylinders in a manner consistent with the original model.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Only proper solution that's worked for me on the .stl level like this is manually deleting and patching the triangles in FreeCAD's Mesh Design. It's usually time consuming, but there are 3d scans and the like that just cannot be modified correctly without fixing the mesh (either before or after the mod).
> 1 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, freecad
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thread-14331 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14331 | Design connection to motor shaft for printed gear | 2020-08-28T11:36:16.800 | # Question
Title: Design connection to motor shaft for printed gear
I am currently trying to print a gear with the possibility to connect it to the shaft of a DC motor. The following picture best describes what the shaft of the motor looks like by showing the hole printed in the gear:
So far this works well for a short amount of time, however since the gear is connected to another gear that is from time to time exerting quite some resistance already after a few revolutions the shaft starts to wear out the material that is holding it and it turns without powering the gear, i.e. the printed part is not strong enough to withstand the torque of the motor.
I am wondering what the best way forward would be here. I see multiple options:
* Design a different connection to the shaft, however I don't know of any
* Switch to a different material, I am currently using PLA, but I could also go for ABS or PETG if any of them would provide advantages. For PLA vs ABS I found some conflicting information which one is "harder"
* Play with the parameters of the print. At the moment I am only using 3 wall layers, I wonder if increasing the number of wall layers would improve rigidity.
Are there other ideas? What could you recommend me to improve this connection?
# Answer
> 7 votes
> Design a different connection to the shaft, however I don't know of any
Use a shaft/flange coupler to be fastened to your shaft and to your printed part.
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Without knowing the length of the shaft, you could connect a flange/coupler to design this into your gear. This is a good solution if you have to transmit larger torques. See e.g. this pulley that incorporates that concept.
Shaft flange couplers can be connected to your printed part and to the flat part of the shaft.
Metal flange couplers are available in many sizes:
A recess in the printed part houses the flange:
When assembled you can mount the pulley/gear onto the shaft, provided you have enough length on the shaft.
# Answer
> 4 votes
A good option would be to use a (set-)screw to press against the flat of the motor shaft, similar to how pulleys are mounted on stepper motors.
# Answer
> 4 votes
If you're thinking of changing materials, you're looking at the wrong parameters. PLA has a higher hardness than either PETG or ABS, but hardness isn't what you want.
The problem you're experiencing is creep, where a material flows in response to pressure. Of the common printing plastics, PLA is by far the most susceptible to creep. Either ABS or PETG will be better in this regard, though unless you need ABS's strength, I'd recommend using PETG because it's easier to get dimensionally-correct prints.
That said, the contact area shown in your drawing is rather small. You'd be much better off using a metal flange to spread the contact out over a larger area.
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Tags: 3d-design, print-material, filament-choice, stability
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thread-14336 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14336 | E3D High Precision Heater difference | 2020-08-28T22:52:07.143 | # Question
Title: E3D High Precision Heater difference
Does anybody know an exact difference between E3D High Precision Heater vs a standard one? I mean technical characteristics not only about its naming.
Or maybe somebody has both of them and did some comparison?
# Answer
E3D themselves specify this on the product page:
> Our high precision heater cartridges feature a rounder cartridge with more consistent diameter and surface quality, ensuring greater surface area contact with the heater block for more reliable heat transfer. With the quick change principle in mind, the high precision heater cartridge uses a Molex Microfit 3.0 connector enabling quick HotEnd changes.
E3D also provide a datasheet on the precision heater cartridge which can be compared to that of the regular heater cartridges.
From an electrical perspective, the are identical. They will put out the exact same amount of heat. The main difference is in the dimensional specifications, which for the precision cartridge is guaranteed to be a diameter of 6.0 mm +/- 0.2 mm and a length of 20.0 mm +/- 0.5 mm, while for the regular cartridge no tolerances are specified though they have the same nominal dimensions.
Apart from this, as we can discern from the product description, the precision cartridge comes with a connector to enable swapping and a better surface finish.
> 1 votes
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Tags: heat-management, e3d
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thread-14342 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14342 | Can Polycarbonate be used as heated bed | 2020-08-30T04:05:12.090 | # Question
Title: Can Polycarbonate be used as heated bed
This is more about using polycarbonate with silicon heated pad as the bed itself, and not as a material that goes onto an existing aluminium bed; i.e. I am not intending to use it as a flexible build surface (although that could be an option as well).
# Answer
Since Polycarbonate (PC) has glass transition point of 147°C (according to wikipedia) where it starts to melt, you could in theory use it as a heated bed for PLA or even PETG. BUT, there are other characteristics:
PC is quite good heat insulator, which would result in uneven heat distribution in the heated bed.
Also it expands quite a lot with rising temperature, which could result in warped bed.
And as per usual with thermoplastic polymers such as PC, heating them and cooling them repeatedly can cause material degradation. That would result in the material becoming brittle, deforming, or changes of other properties....
Next problem would be that it is not stiff enough. Depending on the size of the heated bed you would have to support it on multiple points (I would say at least 5x5 grid for 300x300mm bed) and even then it would be unpredictable.
To sum it up: yes, you probably could use PC as heated bed, but it is much better to stick to traditional materials like aluminium or glass fibre sheets (PCB material), because PC would be very inconsistent and therefore hard to level.
I hope this helps.
Note: I am basing this on my theoretical knowledge, I have not tested it and thus do not know if my assumptions are correct or not.
> 0 votes
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Tags: heated-bed
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thread-14339 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14339 | Removed Nozzle, Plastic Still Backed Up after Cold Pull on Ender 3 | 2020-08-29T16:50:55.253 | # Question
Title: Removed Nozzle, Plastic Still Backed Up after Cold Pull on Ender 3
I am still very much a novice and learning so here is the situation:
1. Filament was not extruding from nozzle. Checked the filament feeder (worked fine, filament was being squeezed through) and tried to push filament through hot nozzle to see if anything came out. Nothing did.
2. Did a cold pull, got a little bit of gunk out. Second cold pull didn't work out like the first one, and the glob of PLA that I fed into the nozzle remained stuck there.
3. I heated and removed the nozzle properly. I am going to soak it in acetone to get rid of the gunk inside. However, when I tried to install my other nozzle, it would take in the threads, and I see now that a little bit of the plastic from the last cold pull melted and trickled down.
What can I do to clean this out and install the nozzle? It is on an Ender 3 Pro.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have encountered this many times. This is how I solved it:
Sadly you have to disassemble the entire hotend. Remove the nozzle, remove the heatbreak and heatsink leaving the heater block in place, it does not need to be cleaned (unless I am mistaken). If there are any plastic pieces in those parts, remove them as well.
Now for the cleaning. Use hot air gun to heat the nozzle/heatbreak/heatsink hot enough so the filament starts to melt. Then you can use a thin screwdriver (or metal wire) to push the stuck filament out.
Alternatively, you can use blow torch (or gas soldering iron with the soldering tip removed) to melt and burn away the stuck plastic. However, when the plastic burns it transforms into a solid dirt which you have to manually remove. But it does not stick as well as the original filament.
I advise against using q-tips because they are made out of plastic which can stick to the surface as well. Instead, use a piece of old cotton cloth (old sock or t-shirt will do) to wipe the surface or threads after heating the part.
When doing so, use needle nose pliers to hold the part in one hand, with the other hand use hot air gun or blow torch to head it up. Then remove the source of heat and with the same hand use screw driver or piece of cloth to clean the part to your liking.
It is ugly and messy and you will most likely burn yourself several times. But it solves the problem quite reliably, unlike cold-pulls and other methods (at least in my experience).
Bathing the parts in acetone will most likely do nothing (unless the stuck filament is ABS) because most filaments in use are resistant against dissolving in acetone. If you need to remove filament from anywhere, use heat not chemicals. It is easier and works almost 100% time.
Good luck.
Note: The solution above for heatbreaks and heatsinks concerns only full metal hotends. Hotends with PTFE lining (such as on Ender 3 Pro - I do not own one, cannot confirm) need to wory about filament being stuck in the nozzle and/or in the PTFE tube, not in the heatbreak and/or heatsink.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I fixed this by using a q-tip to wipe out the threads!
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Tags: creality-ender-3, pla, extruder, nozzle, cleaning
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thread-14345 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14345 | Mixing nozzle vs dual nozzle vs IDEX vs tool changer for pva and pla | 2020-08-30T14:09:45.120 | # Question
Title: Mixing nozzle vs dual nozzle vs IDEX vs tool changer for pva and pla
I am planning to build a 3D printer with dual extrusion. I want to use PVA with one of the extruders and the main material with the other one so color printing isn't important for me and I just want to use dual-material (mostly PLA and PVA). I want to know which of the types below should I use and also the pros and cons of each one, especially **oozing** and **final print quality**.
1. Dual extruder and dual nozzle (eg. E3D Chimera+)
2. Dual extruder and one mixing nozzle (eg. E3D Cyclops)
3. Dual extruder with 2 independent nozzles (2 stepper motors on the X-axis each one moving 1 E3D v6 individually)
4. Dual extruder and dual nozzle using a tool changer and a CoreXY setup (using a servo motor to lock the tool to carriage similar to the E3D tool changer)
# Answer
I would advise against mixing nozzle - you would have many jams and clogs and you would have to use purge tower which in my opinion is not worth it. Thats scratching point 2.
Point 1. and 3. are similar to some extent. With both types you have to align the nozzles in all three axes. Crude aligning should be done by hardware and fine tuning done in software (too much difference in Z alignment could cause one nozzle hitting the printed part). Anyway, the aligning is pain and you will have to do many test prints to achieve sufficient results.
In my opinion, point 3. (also called Idex - independent dual extrusion, I believe) will give you best results, because while one nozzle is printing, the other one is parked on the side where it can ooze as along as you manage to wipe it when it is getting ready to print. You can use purge buckets. Also you have to home the extruders indepentently as well (one to right and one to left).
Point 1. will introduce a lot off oozing issues. You would have to use ooze shield, or other methods of wiping the other hotend, if you are comfortable with that.
As for connecting another axis to Ramps 1.4, the board has 5 stepper motor outputs (X, Y, Z, E0 and E1). Therefore there is no output for another X axis, since both E0 and E1 will be used. You have two options I can think of:
Creating your own stepper output and connecting it to auxiliary pins on the board (if you are using legacy stepper drivers, you need 2-3 pins - direction, step, (and motor enable)). That requires some basic knowledge of electrical devices and firmware. However, it is doable. Not easy for someone without sufficient knowledge, but not impossible either.
Or the other option is to buy an existing boar with 6 stepper motor outputs such as Bigtreetech SKR PRO. You still have to configure the firmware but it is much easier this time (it has been made/pre-made several times with tutorials).
I would suggest using Marlin firmware as it supports many configuration types and has very strong community - someone has likely solved your solution or can help you solve yours. I would also suggest not using Ramps board with Arduino Mega2560. That board configuration is so old. 3D printers have moved on, whereas that board has stayed the same for 5 or so years. It is OK, perhaps good for tinkering, but there are far better options (such as the mentioned BTT SKR series boards).
Good luck with your design.
Note: I do not own a dual extrusion printer of any of the mentioned types. This is just my understanding of the theory and how I would do it, if I were to build a dual extrusion 3D printer.
> 1 votes
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Tags: extruder, ramps-1.4, dual-nozzle, multi-material, pva
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thread-14348 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14348 | Can't level CR10 as nozzle is touching the glass | 2020-08-31T00:56:59.493 | # Question
Title: Can't level CR10 as nozzle is touching the glass
I have a brand new Creality CR-10 S5. I'm new to printing.
I'm trying to level the print bed, but after using the Auto-Home function the nozzle is left touching the glass. I understand that to do the leveling, I must move the head manually to the four positions for adjusting. But I really don't want to do that because I don't want to damage the glass, nozzle, or both. From the explanations of leveling I've found, I think I should expect the nozzle to be too high if anything.
Am I conceptually wrong, or have I made some rookie mistake?
# Answer
> 1 votes
If the nozzle is touching the bed, you need to further screw down the bed. If the springs under the screws are already fully compressed, you cannot lower the bed further and you will need to move the Z-endstop up. Note that there are handy fine tuning aids you can print to help you with this, see e.g. this fine tune part for your printer. Note that this issue is not uncommon, I've read that more people encountered this.
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Tags: bed-leveling, creality-cr-10
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thread-14353 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14353 | Configure Marlin for tool changing system | 2020-09-01T05:41:23.930 | # Question
Title: Configure Marlin for tool changing system
I am planning to build a CoreXY machine with a tool changing system. I am using Marlin firmware and `BigTreeTech SKR PRO` as the controller board. There are 3 options in Marlin for tool changing systems:
* Switching tool head
* Magnetic switching tool head
* Electromagnetic switching tool head
I want to use the switching tool head in my project using a servo/stepper motor. So I have 2 questions:
1. Should I use a servo or stepper motor? Which one does the board and firmware support?
2. Where should I connect the servo/stepper on the SKR PRO and what should the value of `SWITCHING_TOOLHEAD_SERVO_NR` be?
Note: I am also using a BLTouch leveling sensor So I can't connect the servo to the BLTouch servo port.
**Edit: After so much research, finally, I found the way to do this.** For the first question, Servo is the best choice. First, we need to configure tool change x and y position and servo rotation angle in `configuration.h` file and leave `SWITCHING_TOOLHEAD_SERVO_NR` as it is. Also, uncomment `#define NUM_SERVOS` and set it to 2.Then we need to open `Marlin\src\pins\stm32f4\pins_BTT_SKR_PRO_common.h` file and in the `Servos` section, add the following line:
```
#define SERVO1_PIN PC9
```
In the end, connect the servo signal pin to the `PC9` pin on extension 1 and the `VCC` and `GND` pin to the pins next to the PC9 pin that are `GND` and `5V`.
**Note:** I haven't tested this because I don't have this board. If this way doesn't work, please tell me in comments.
# Answer
1. Use a servo. This way you can use the digital pins to control it; or in your specific case `PWM_PC9`
2. Connect it to the expansion port and configure one of the digital pins in the marlin configuration file. A servo will go to the minimum position when the pin goes low, and the max position when the pin goes high. I take it you don't need any stops in between since you're doing a tool changer.
---
*If you figure out how to modify the code to support tool changing, I'd be interested to know as well.*
> 2 votes
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Tags: marlin, bigtreetech, corexy
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thread-1266 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1266 | What to do with failed/unwanted 3D prints? | 2016-06-06T04:59:03.687 | # Question
Title: What to do with failed/unwanted 3D prints?
I am planning on getting a 3D printer soon and I was just wondering, what do you do with 3D prints that either failed or were prototypes that you no longer want?
I tried looking online but the closest I got was effects on environment, turning prints back into filament, or restarting a failed print half-way, none of which were the information I was looking for.
The solution should be somewhat eco and just keeping unwanted prints in a box somewhere isn't a very good solution either.
Finishing off failed prints isn't totally applicable because it wouldn't apply to prototype prints that you don't want to keep.
Is there anywhere to send failed 3D prints for professional recycling, or are there any recommendations for properly disposing 3D prints?
In case this is of any use, the printer I am planning to get uses filament that can be made of PLA, ABS, Nylon, and possibly other materials. The printer is this one specifically (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/101hero/101hero-the-world-first-us49-3d-printer) from KickStarter.
# Answer
> 17 votes
The "obvious" answer is re-grinding the prints and making more filament. Unfortunately, this isn't yet a very economical or simple operation. A decent filament extruder capable of holding acceptable diameter tolerances is around $1000, and even then they can be pretty fidgety to operate. You have to have a LOT of volume throughput in your filament extruder for regrinding to be an economical proposition.
Some of the reasons why recycling prints into filament can be difficult:
* Most plastics will degrade to some extent each time they are extruded. (Both by the 3d printer and by the filament extruder.) PLA will thermally degrade with extended exposure to heat. PET will hydrolyze and break down if not meticulously dried to remove moisture prior to heating to the melting temp. (PETG seems to be less prone to hydrolysis damage than plastic bottle PET, but it still happens to a limited degree.) ABS holds up to extrusion conditions better than most, which is part of why it's favored for injection molding, but there's still the potential to affect properties by depleting additives or cooking out plasticizers. **In practice, this means regrinds generally need to be mixed with fresh pellets at some ratio.** That dilutes the degraded or additive-depleted polymer with good material so you can maintain the material properties and performance.
* If you print a variety of different colors, and don't want all your recycled filament to mix and end up a muddy brownish color, it can be difficult to manage the color sorting and matching. Most people don't want different colors along the length of a spool, either. So the regrind has to be mixed evenly in with virgin pellets and a suitable amount of masterbatch colorant to get a reasonable color output. You're not going to run off a new spool with 95% virgin pellets just to recycle a 50 gram failed print, are you? Likewise for material matching. Mixing materials is a bad idea. **If you only print white PLA, this is all pretty easy to manage. But if you print a variety of colors and materials, you've got to set up a material tracking, sorting, and storage operation.** You *can* do it... it's just a hassle.
* Diameter control is difficult. 3D printers need a fairly tight diameter control for reliable performance and good quality. This is really the key challenge in any filament extrusion process. Extruded polymers like to change shape as they extrude and cool due to molecular alignment effects. You can't just push molten plastic out a 1.75mm nozzle -- "die swell" will make the extrudate bulge to a larger diameter immediately upon exiting the nozzle. Then you have to actually *pull* on the soft filament as it cools to carefully draw it down to the right diameter. The way the filament extruder measures diameter and controls tension is the key to getting acceptable results. Most hobbyist/desktop filament extruders have not succeeded at this.
Those are just the major issues. Filament extrusion is a complex subject with a lot of depth. For a home user of 3d printers, making filament basically becomes a whole second hobby. In my opinion, it only really makes sense in a commercial production printing environment where paid technicians can run the extruder(s) and a very large print throughput makes the pellets+regrind economics much more favorable than just buying new filament.
Reducing and reusing are preferable to recycling. Making your printer more reliable and gaining experience with calibration/configuration will reduce the volume of waste produced.
There are also some productive uses that let you reuse unwanted prints as-is or "downcycle" them for productive uses.
* I personally keep a box of failed prints (and calibration prints and no-longer-needed prototypes) as showpieces for people who want to learn about 3D printing, and as toys for my nieces and nephews. I strongly recommend doing your calibration prints with a "toy" calibration model like Benchy or CaliBlocks. 3D printing is still new enough that people will happily take dozens of Benchies off your hands for the novelty value.
* Failed and unwanted prints can also be used around the workshop for shims, sacrificial cushions when clamping or hammering or drilling, or as scrap for experimenting with adhesives or post-processing techniques.
* ABS scraps are good for making ABS-slurry as a print bed adhesion treatment layer, or for solvent-painting and filling gaps in other prints. Unfortunately, most other filaments do not have such convenient and safe solvents.
* Some people have experimented with putting piles of scrap prints on a cookie sheet in an oven and melting them into multicolor cutting boards. There's a lot you can do with this sort of heavy remelt plate if you get creative. (I personally wouldn't use cheap Asian filaments for food contact though, they often have unpleasant contaminants.)
# Answer
> 10 votes
It will be very difficult to find a recycling facility that will accept your 3D prints, because they're mainly set up to handle packaging material (which constitutes the vast majority of plastic waste) such as bottles. If you sent your 3D prints to your municipal recycling programme they would at best sort it out from the packaging material and incinerate it, and at worst it would contaminate a batch of recycled plastic (of a different type).
You might be able to find a recycling company that specializes in recycling the plastics used in your printer, but given the extremely low volume involved it is not worth their or your time to handle it.
You should discard your prints as household waste, and offset your environmental impact some other way (by paying for some trees to be planted, or investing in renewable energy,...) - this would be a more viable use of your time and resources.
# Answer
> 3 votes
At Chaos Computer Club summit in Winter there was a talk from a Maker who recycled by himself.
*How can be 3d printing a dual use technology? Print more things, produce less waste, save money!* You can see the talk here https://media.ccc.de/v/32c3-7321-re\_cycle
Update: At Fabcon3D in Erfurt/Germany there presented two startups their prototype for filament extruder. You can either recycle old print-puts or compose your own filament with pellets. http://mcubus.com/ and http://3devo.eu/ Im not shure how mature their "product" is. But it will be soon.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If you have a few friends you could pitch in and use a recycling service like Terracycle where you can send your failed prints, rafts and scraps. No affiliation with Terracycle, it's just a service that I found and am considering.
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Tags: filament, pla, abs, recycling
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thread-14363 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14363 | What type of plug is this? | 2020-09-02T12:54:46.087 | # Question
Title: What type of plug is this?
I'm not really sure what the type of plug on the heater cable is. Is it a Molex KK or maybe a JST PH?
The printer is a *Prusa I3* Hephestos (aka BQ Hephestos). It came with this "BQ HOT-END HEATCORE CLASSIC" hotend from the "BQ Witbox 1" extruder.
# Answer
> 7 votes
As 0scar noted, this looks suspiciously *like* a JST connector, but the left one is not a JST RCY connector and it is neither one of the common JST PH nor JST XH, JST manufacturer pages show. In fact, it's not a wire-to-wire JST connector. The BQ-store claims it is a 2.5 mm JST connector, but JST has some 10 dozen different types of connectors, some three dozen of them with a 2.5 mm pitch.
## "JST Quick" / JST RCY
This one is rated 3A, and looks like the connector on the right, the thermistor one. So if you need to fix that, you know what to get for that.
## So what it is?
The connector however looks at *first glance suspiciously* like this one:
I found this product on several warehouses, listed as `2-PIN CONNECTOR W/HEADER, .10"`, and even found a specsheet. Those products appear, in design, to be based on the **Molex KK 254** from the 2659 series. A genuine Molex 2659-series connector is rated for up to **2.5 Ampere**, and looks *somewhat* similar.
However, the shop did claim it is a JST 2.5 mm pin, and they give a side view:
That is **not** a Molex KK. It appears more similar to a JST NV, which however has a 5 mm distance between the peg centers (= pitch) and it's rated for 10 A (or 120 W at 12V!). While matching in *style* it does not match in measurements - as OP confirmed, there's a very close to a 4 mm pitch (+- measurement tollerance) on the connector. So it's not an NV, but something os similar style.
But then it has to be the VH! The VH series has a 3.98 mm pitch, it has that latch and it is rated 10 A, for 120 W at 12 V. In fact, the pins on the Hotend seem to be B2P-VH, matching VHR-2N or VHR-2M "female" adapters.
### Safety?
I would **not** trust a Molex KK 2659-series connector with a heater cartridge on a 12 V Machine! With a 12 V, 30 W Heater cartridge draws **exactly** 2.5 Ampere, so you'd have a safety margin of 0! That's bad design. A 40 W heater cartridge would draw 3.3 A - that's 132 % of the rating! That'd be a fire waiting to happen!
Only a 24 V machine could be built with a Molek KK 2659 connector and stay within the 2.5 A rating (40 W & 24 V -\> 1.67 A, 30 W & 24 W -\> 1.25 A) with a safety factor of about 1.5 to 2 to the rating (depending on heater cartridge).
However, this is a JST VH with a rating of 10 A. That means, at 12 V, it's safe for 120 W load, so plenty safe: That's a safety facor of 3, and on a 24 V machine it'd be 6. That's Perfectly safe and sane! After all we look for at least a 5 A rated connector in conjunction with a 12 V/40 W heater.
The more tedious variant to connect safely is to use either an even higher rated connector (requiring replacement) or a continuous wire to the board.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, hotend, electronics, replacement-parts, bq-hephestos
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thread-14338 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14338 | Use inkjet cartridge to color filiment? | 2020-08-29T16:36:05.243 | # Question
Title: Use inkjet cartridge to color filiment?
Is it possible to use a standard color inkjet cartridge to color filament for full color 3D printing?
It seems like a natural next step to me, but I haven't seen much of anything on this. (Just a few ancient experiments on reprap wiki.)
I've learned that some inkjet printers have the heads built into the cartridge whereas others it's part of the printer. I think the former would be more appropriate.
Unfortunately I haven't seen anything on actually how to drive the cartridges. I'm guessing the mfgr's treat this as a trade secret (?) Still, there's got to be some overseas reverse-engineer... something... on this, right?
Anybody have resources/notes they'd like to share?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I don't think it makes a lot of sense - you don't need that kind of resolution, and getting a sufficient amount of ink that way to coat the filament would be hard. If you're going to be switching colors rapidly, you'd need a long purge between colors anyway. I also doubt the type of ink is suitable for sticking to filament materials.
If you really want an automated filament coloring system, I would do it with Sharpies and actuators to move individual ones on/off of the filament as it passes through. Coloring PLA with Sharpies prior to printing is a known-working technique, and there are even models available on Thingiverse for holders to keep them in place while the filament runs through. Designing the actuators to switch individual ones on/off, and the firmware controls for them, would be the natural next step.
Here are some examples I did with manual coloring of natural translucent PLA (from left to right: uncolored, silver Sharpie, and red Sharpie):
I didn't color a long enough segment of filament or properly purge for any of them, which is why the coloring is inconsistent/incomplete. But the technique definitely works.
# Answer
> 1 votes
AS an FYI, this is becoming available commercially: https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product-level/PROFESSIONAL/color-series
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is a thing since I think 2-3 years. There's such a printer from XYZ printing. It's not cheap but worth it. https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product/da-vinci-color
The other thing thats available right now is a new print technology named Multy Jet Fusion, where drops of resin being colored and droped to a 3D Print:
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Tags: color
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thread-14358 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14358 | How can I tell if BLTouch is triggering? | 2020-09-01T19:32:05.367 | # Question
Title: How can I tell if BLTouch is triggering?
MY new BLTouch doesn't seem to be actually sensing anything, and I'm not sure how to test it.
Quick background: I have a bit under a decade of experience with printing generally, but essentially none with firmware or any of the specific hardware. I recently got a new Ender 3 Pro, and successfully printed with it for a month.
I recently decided to upgrade my Ender 3 pro motherboard and add a BLTouch. I installed an SKR Mini E3 v2.0, tested briefly (long enough to satisfy myself that it worked as expected, but nothing extensive). I bolted on a BLTouch (not sure if 3.0 or 3.1), built and installed a cable to the dedicated "Z-Probe" port (same pinout as the BLTouch: brown, red, yellow, black, white), and updated the firmware with the binary firmware file from the controller board manufacturer. I have no other mods to electronics.
Right now, I have the following behavior:
* During startup: BLTouch extends and retracts several times
* In the LCD menu for BLTouch; select `CMD:Self Test`: BLTouch turns red, extends and retracts several times.
* In the LCD menu for BLTouch; select `CMD:Extend`: BLTouch extends.
* In the LCD menu for BLTouch; select `CMD:Retract`: BLTouch retracts.
* In the LCD menu, select `Auto Home`: behaves as expected (moves the axes until they hit endstops).
So far so good, but then this:
* In the LCD menu, select `Bed Level`: performs Auto Home procedure (as above), moves the BLTouch over the corner of the bed, extends the probe, lowers the Z axis until it hits the endstop. BLTouch probe moves back in. On the way down it turns solid red, then flashing red, then eventually retracts, then the carriage hits the endstop. Process ends.
So, What next? I'd like to check that the BLTouch is actually sending a signal to the board, but I'm not sure how. I've reviewed a bunch of online tutorials and the documentation for the mainboard and the BLTouch, without finding an answer.
Available tools: I have a multimeter and a very cheap oscilloscope. I haven't gotten the maple console installed, but do have a (probably?) functional alternative through the Pango slicer.
# Answer
Problem is solved, though I still don't know how to test the BLTouch.
I had reversed the power connection (black and white wires) at the connection to the extension cable. Swapping that connector back around restored expected behavior.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bltouch
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thread-14375 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14375 | BLTouch not leveling | 2020-09-03T15:45:16.557 | # Question
Title: BLTouch not leveling
I installed a BLTouch V3.1 on my Ender 3 which is using Marlin (bugfix 2.0.x) off a Skr mini e3 v2.0. I updated the firmware using a teaching tech video.
I'm having trouble when using bed leveling. It homes everything correctly, and then moves outside the bed before the probe repeatedly deploys and retracts, without the head moving at all. I attached a link to a video here: Bed Leveling Problem
I have a feeling it must be something in my config files from looking at other answers here but I really don't know. I attached my config files as well. Configuration.h , Configuration\_adv.h
I have the BLTouch plugged into the z-stop for the black and white cords. I didn't need to cut any wires or anything since mine came with the endstop connector piece attached, and the other wires in the Zprobe section (Blue, Red, Yellow) to (`GND`, `+5V`, `PA1`) respectively. As for the firmware, I got it directly off the Marlin site: marlinfw.org/meta/download.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
---
Additional information:
I have connected my printer to PronterFace and recieve the following error when sending a G29
```
Reset.
>>> G28
SENDING:G28
>>> G29
SENDING:G29
Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999
[ERROR] Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999
Error:Probing Failed
[ERROR] Error:Probing Failed
```
# Answer
You are mixing and matching a few older techniques. That's understandable, because "older" means "as of three months ago." But there is a better way now: as of version 2.0, the SKR mini has a full, working port for the BLTouch. You do *not* need to plug it into the z-stop, and you can and should retain your existing z-stop switch.
So:
* Power down your printer and get access to your board.
* Roll back your hardware changes by unplugging the BLTouch and reattaching the z-stop switch.
* Plug the bltouch into the port labelled "z-probe", which is next to the display port. Starting from the pin nearest to the stop switches, the pin order should be Brown, Red, Yellow, Black White.
* Optional: instead of the step above, cut the DuPont connectors off the BLTouch cables and crimp a single XH-5Y connector in their place, then plug that into the board.
* Download the official BLTouch firmware from SKR mini: https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/firmware/V2.0/firmware-bltouch.bin
* Install that firmware: Rename the file to "firmware.bin", unplug any USB cables from your printer, copy the file to a MicroSD, insert the MicroSD into your printer and power it on.
...and then it should work.
> 3 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, bed-leveling, bltouch
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thread-14377 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14377 | When 3D printing a hollow box, what is the best course of action? | 2020-09-04T05:38:05.253 | # Question
Title: When 3D printing a hollow box, what is the best course of action?
If I need to 3D print a hollow box that can not have any light permeating into the box, what would be the best course of action? Should I 3D print the hollow box as a whole or print out the 6 sides individually and put them together at the end? And if I do the second option, what would be the best way to put the pieces together (design/connect grooves or use glue)?
I am very new to 3D printing so any feedback would be very much appreciated!
# Answer
That depends very much on what your goal is with the box. If it needs to be hollow and you don't need any access to the inside (and also prefer it to be printed in one piece) than the answer provided by user77232 would probably be the best.
Alternatively, if you need access to the inside of the box you would probably be best off printing the box in two pieces. A box and a lid. This way you can print the box without support and also save on material that would otherwise be used as infill.
The amount of light coming into your box also depends on the translucency of your material and brightness of the light source. To find the required wall thickness would be a matter of testing with the desired material.
> 1 votes
# Answer
1. Print it as a whole object
2. Use 20% infill.
3. Profit!
> 0 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
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thread-14383 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14383 | What causes this characteristic pattern and what is it called? | 2020-09-04T21:02:22.710 | # Question
Title: What causes this characteristic pattern and what is it called?
I am using a Qidi Tech 1 (Flashforge Creator Pro). There is no auto bed leveling and I have done my best to tweak it by hand using the screws underneath the heated bed plate.
What is causing this characteristic pattern? This while printing the first layer of some test pattern. I don't know what the end result is supposed to look like.
# Answer
> 1 votes
These "stretch marks" are typically the result of a nozzle that is a little too close to the build surface. Next time levelling be sure to use a thicker piece of paper or allow for less drag when moving the the paper between nozzle and bed.
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Tags: extrusion, flashforge-creator
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thread-8059 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8059 | PETG nozzle clearance and extrusion multiplier | 2019-01-25T09:36:01.657 | # Question
Title: PETG nozzle clearance and extrusion multiplier
I've started printing PETG recently and I'm happy with results so far, awesome strength and good looking (except for stringing). But I've noticed that PETG prints better with more distance nozzle-plate than usual, and under-extrusion make parts looking better than both normal/over-extrusion.
* What distance nozzle-plate is optimal for PETG? (i.e. the distance between nozzle and build plate during calibration)
* What extrusion percentage is optimal for PETG?
# Answer
Here is the mental framework that I use to reason about PETG: In a nutshell you want to **avoid nozzle contact**.
Unlike most other plastics, PETG sticks to hot brass really well and every time the nozzle moves through material it will pick up some of it. Material around the the nozzle then sticks to a random place creating a blob. It can also cook, turn transparent brown and drop into the print. Investing in a plated nozzle or silicone socks helps but doesn't eliminate the problem completely.
Now to the questions.
### 1) Nozzle Distance
Distance to the plate has to be such that the plastic is laid down precisely without the nozzle dragging through the material (remember, avoid nozzle contact). Precise lines require the build plate to be level and the flow perfectly calibrated. If nozzle is too low and/or the layer is over-extruded then PETG will stick to the nozzle and rip the lines off the plate again. Inspecting the first layer is required for best results. I like to print a layer test pattern **after** the flow has been calibrated and tweak Z offset in 0.02mm increments until it's perfect.
With many other plastics it's ok to have a large amount of "squish" in the first layer as it helps to work around minor leveling issues. This is where the cookie-cutter recommendation to raise the nozzle when printing with PETG is coming from.
### 2) Extrusion percentage
Flow has to be near **perfect**. Down to one percent perfect. Even a slightest over extrusion and some of the excess material will end up on the nozzle when it makes the next pass. Under extrusion isn't great either as this can lead to holes and affect overhangs where thinner strands of a previous pass may not be enough for the next line to stick to.
There are two critical parameters: diameter of the filament and extrusion multiplier. This is how to determine the settings:
1. Measure filament diameter. I use an average of ten measurements over about a meter (yard) of filament taken in multiple orientations.
2. Calibrate the extrusion multiplier using a method described in Prusa manual: I print a 40x40x40 cube in vase mode with extrusion multiplier set to 1 and fixed extrusion width (e.g. 0.45mm), measure the wall thickness in three spots on every side, average the results and compute the correction factor.
I perform flow calibration for every new roll of filament.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I have printed literally kilometers of 2.85 mm PETG filament on various 3D printers, and frankly, I do not share your opinion on an increased calibration distance/offset (like using thicker paper when levelling you build plate or increasing the Z offset by G-code `M851`). I even lower the default first layer height in Ultimaker Cura (0.2 mm prints fine). I am aware that on the web there are folks that do increase the calibration offset, or increase the first layer height, but that should not be necessary on a well tuned printer with sufficient first layer adhesion (e.g. printing on glass with 3DLAC).
Furthermore, the best extrusion multiplier for printing PETG is 100 % on a well tuned extruder for a constant diameter quality filament brand.
> 2 votes
# Answer
On my Ender 3 Pro's I have found the following works well (also remember settings can be effected by different brand/quality of filament):
* Bed to nozzle 0.2-0.3 mm,
* Multiplier 100 %,
* Nozzle ~230 °C/bed 70 °C,
* Speed 50 mm/s.
* Cooling off first few layers but from there cooling and retraction is part specific.
If you use retraction, it may help to slow it down to 25 mm/s and adjust retract distance if your using Bowden tube or direct drive. Last, a must have, a can of hair spray, works great and less expensive than the glues.
> 0 votes
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Tags: petg
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thread-14388 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14388 | Installing multiple versions of ChiTu side by side | 2020-09-06T17:45:07.533 | # Question
Title: Installing multiple versions of ChiTu side by side
I am using two resin printers based on the ChiTu software (Creality LD-002R and SainSmart Kumitsu KL9), and the former uses ChiTu 1.6.2, while the latter came with 1.6.1. I believe both will work just fine with the latest version, but it occurs to me that having separate copies of the software may be a good idea to keep configurations separate as well: Creality's version of the software came pre-configured (and the settings are undocumented!), while the SainSmart manual documents the software settings.
I don't want to go back-and forth between two sets of settings manually — the secret recipe approach has poor UX and time's a wastin'. I am wondering if there is any concern with installing multiple copies of ChiTu. And if anyone has a smarter way to accomplish the same (printer profiles? INI files?), I am all ears.
# Answer
Running multiple versions of the same software did not sit well with the software person in me, so I dug a little deeper.
ChiTu has a "settings" button to the right side, and under that section it is possible to configure different, separate printer profiles. That may take care of the differences if properly configured, unfortunately only some printer profiles are pre-loaded. ChiTu 1.6.4 includes the Creality LD-002R profile, while the very recent Kumitsu KL9 is not predefined (yet), but the manual comes with a screenshot of the parameters just as they need to be entered.
> 1 votes
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Tags: resin, creality-ld-002r, chitu, sainsmart-kumitsu-kl9
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thread-14392 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14392 | Can photopolymer resin colors be mixed? | 2020-09-07T00:41:52.533 | # Question
Title: Can photopolymer resin colors be mixed?
Can different resin colors be mixed to generate new colors? I use eSun water washable resins, but I am happy to switch if this is a different vendor's capability.
# Answer
# Yes and No at the same time
First of all, yes, you can mix resins. However, you should only mix resins that are of the same makeup, as in one brand and type. Why? because different types of resin have different compositions and different polymerization types. Mixing different types can result in unpredictable behavior, and not working at all!
To test, use a tiny amount of your brand and type matched resins and apply to the vat, then print something really tiny, like just 2 or 3 layers of a 20x20x20 mm cube.
> 2 votes
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Tags: resin
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thread-14397 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14397 | Bowden-direct hybrid | 2020-09-07T20:59:01.030 | # Question
Title: Bowden-direct hybrid
I've got a direct drive extruder printer, that I have equipped with a Bowden-tube to give it a nice and defined filament path from my spool and to protect it from moisture when it exits my drybox. I've noticed that this 1 m Bowden tube adds quite a bit of friction to the system. I am keenly aware of it as feeding filament form the drybox into the tube by hand is quite a chore already, especially with high friction materials like PETG. Also I notice that I can sustain only lower volumetric flow without skipping or underextrusion after adding the tube.
So I figured, why not have a motor on both sides of the bowden tube? A big and heavy one at the entrance, providing a baseline pressure on the filament. And a comparatively light one on the other end, adding that fine control you want for your retraction, rather than trying to implement that via a 1 m wet noodle full of static friction.
Seems like it would give you the best of both worlds. Not quite as light as a full Bowden system, but you could have all the control of a direct drive system, with much less of the weight/flow rate tradeoff.
Anyone aware of this being done before? Or any good arguments as to why it is a stupid idea? Seems like a fairly straightforward mod; in the simplest implementation, just add an additional extruder of the same spec on the other side of your Bowden tube, and split the control signal to be the same amongst both motors.
# Answer
A Bowden tube is by design fairly small diameter to match the filament within, constraining the forces applied by the remote extruder mechanism. As you've noted, friction is a consideration.
For your application, you would not have to have such a tightly constrained diameter. You could use a Bowden tube for 2.85 mm filament, if your direct drive extruder is made for 1.75 mm filament.
You'd have the environmental control of the smaller tube, the path control and all of the other benefits, but none (or little) of the friction.
Additionally, you would not have the complexity of managing retraction or synchronizing feed that a dual motor system presents.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I have a similar setup with one of my printers (that is using 1.75 mm filament), this answer is therefore my own experience with guiding tubes from spool to extruder (my previous was a direct drive extruder, the latter uses a Bowden setup, but both with a tube leading up to the extruder).
Initially I used smaller diameter tubing (inner diameter of 2 and 3 mm, that is commonly used for Bowden setups for respectively for 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm filament), but when I changed to 4 mm inner diameter (and 6 mm outer diameter) all friction was gone. The benefit of using 4 mm inner diameter is that it fits over the 2/4 mm ID/OD tubes, and as such I slide the larger inner diameter tube over a piece of 4 mm outer diameter, forme, this also simplifies feeding the filament to the extruder.
> 1 votes
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Tags: bowden
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thread-14402 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14402 | How do I know if a filament is abrasive? | 2020-09-09T09:47:39.040 | # Question
Title: How do I know if a filament is abrasive?
There are tons of fancy filaments around. And a lot are super nice to look at or have super cool properties, like carbon-filled nylon being comparatively far stronger than other material, wood fill is aesthetically pleasing and even just Glow in the dark! But a maker space nearby just banned any of those as *abrasive* filament. But, how can I know if my filament is abrasive?
# Answer
A filament made of pure plastic won't be abrasive. The abrasion comes from the added particles.
Filaments with added particles of any kind (there are not so many after all: glass/carbon fibres, metals, glow in the dark, wood, stone) will usually be always be advertised as such because they always carry a higher price tag compared to the plain plastic, therefore you know that it contains potentially abrasive particles.
Once you know that particles are added, most of the time they will be abrasive: as far as I know, only cork is not, any other kind of particles I listed (including wood particles) may easily scratch brass.
If it were your printer, we could discuss how much each kind of particles will abrade, but in your case the ban seems to be complete, therefore only plain plastics (including "plus/+/Pro" blends, like for PLA and ABS) are allowed.
> 5 votes
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Tags: filament-choice, knowledgebase, filled-pla
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thread-3866 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3866 | Filament material for chemical application | 2017-04-16T18:54:14.833 | # Question
Title: Filament material for chemical application
I am doing laboratory experiments and need to print some components.
I am working with different aqueous (water) solutions containing sulphuric acid (H<sub>2</sub>SO<sub>4</sub>), hydrochloric acid (HCl), and hydrogen peroxide (H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>), separately and in combination. The pH of the solutions are in the range 0 to 7. Temperatures don't exceed 40° Celsius.
In another application we have aqueous solutions containing high concentrations of FeCl<sub>3</sub>, HCl and in some cases H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub> at temperatures of up to 180° Celsius.
Which 3D printing filament materials can you recommend for these applications?
# Answer
> 4 votes
There are two issues you have here, one is temperature stability and the other is chemical reactivity of plastics. I can't help you with the chemistry side, but I can help with the temperature.
# Application 1 (Temp \< 40 °C)
Any FDM plastic will perform reasonably well under these temperatures. I would suggest trying a Nylon, PETG or a PolyCarbonate filament as I know these are more resistant to acids than PLA or ABS. As far as strength of the parts, all FDM plastics will work well
# Application 2 (Temp \> 180 °C)
This temperature range is above the glass transition temperature of the PLA, ABS, PETG and Nylon are all well below 180 °C and therefore aren't worth considering. Your best option is PolyCarbonate, or PolyCarbonate-ABS which are both fairly high (roughly 140-150 °C). However, are both below your minimum temperature threshold.
My conclusion is to try a polycarbonate sample and see how it reacts to the chemicals you're working with, though it doesn't look hopeful.
For Chemical reactivity, I did some Google-fu and found a few links that look helpful for PolyCarbonate:
# Answer
> 2 votes
Polyoxymethylene (POM) filament (known as Delrin or acetal) is suited to applications involving chemicals: it is chemically resistant to solvents, hydrocarbons, and neutral chemicals.
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Tags: filament, material, filament-choice
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thread-11605 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11605 | Surface Tension Support for FDM Printers | 2019-12-22T01:49:00.243 | # Question
Title: Surface Tension Support for FDM Printers
I've been thinking about alternatives to support materials for FDM printers, such as multi axis printers, dual head with soluble support material or printing in a gel/liquid which traps the material in place. Then it occurred to me that it might be possible to use the surface tension of a liquid to act as support material, same way small objects an insect can float on water even though they are heavier than water. This would also work great for cooling the extruded material. NOTE, we are still using a base plate like any other FDM printer, the only difference is that we have a water surface on the build plate which act as support material for large overhangs/steep angles. Everything is still attached to the build plate itself. We are not just printing stand alone parts on the surface of the water.
After some highly scientific testing (Dropping an extruded string of PLA and placing a thin printed PLA part on the top of water) I've concluded that it is very feasible to float PLA on the surface tension of water. See picture for refence:
As you can see the floating structure is not at all trivial, it has both smooth round shapes and many sharp corners and holes in it, it was still extremely simple to get floating (I could drop it in from a height of 5 cm and it would still not break the surface tension). I also tried my best to investigate the effects of having structures underneath which might mess up the surface tension by placing larger PLA parts under the floating ring and trying to sink the ring by touching the underside and corners without any success at sinking the floating part. The only way I could get this part to sink was to push it down under water. Even if the surface tension was only broken half way along the ring the ring would still float. If you are thinking that the ring acted as a boat, that is not the case. I made sure to fill the small indents with water so that there were no pockets of air keeping it afloat.
An even more encouraging result was another ring which was much thicker than it was wide. It still managed to float from the surface tension on the top side of the structure while the rest of it was submerged, accurately mimicking how the structure would actually be in the water during printing. See picture:
While this ring much easier to sink it was very resistant to being moved around. Again, basically the only way to sink it was to push it down under water, though as soon as the surface tension was broken on one side the whole ring quickly sank.
All this leads me to my question: Does anyone know of a 3D printer which uses the surface tension of water as support material?
I've searched around some on the web and I have not really found anything at all on the matter. I can foresee many potential problems (such as the extruder moving unsupported lines to the side when changing direction, layer adhesion, enclosed areas not filling with water etc) but the potential to print without support and only have to worry about keeping the newly extruded material in place could open up a lot of potential.
UPDATE: I also tried 60 degree Celsius water (In case you need hot water to help with layer adhesion) and the surface tension still was able to float the thicker ring piece, though it felt like the surface tension was weaker.
# Answer
> 1 votes
# It's not feasible as described with normal FDM technology.
FDM bases on depositing material in a single path. This needs the deposited material to stay at the same XY coordinates for subsequent paths. And exactly here is where a floating piece fails: a free-floating piece is by its very definition unrestricted in XY, and would move to follow the nozzle.
There are is also a whole plethora of factors that make this idea not feasible with the standard technology, meaning you'll have to develop the whole process, not just recombine two ideas. This means, you need to solve the following issues:
## Heatsink Water
The extruded plastic needs to stay close to the melting point for some time, so it can fuse and bond with the lines next to them. However, water is known to be a very good method to get the heat away from items, as each liter of water can take about 4.1 MJ and only heat by one Kelvin. PLA on the other hand only stores about 1.8 MJ per Kilogram and Kelvin.
As a back of the envelope calculation, the temperature differential between room temperature and printing temperature PLA is about 180 Kelvin. Each gram of PLA is equivalent to 319.8 mm of filament (assuming a density of 1.3 g/cm³) or an extruded line of 9.6 kilometer length of 0.4 mm width and 0.2 mm height! That one gram contains about 324 Joules of energy that will be dispersed to the room temperature as it cools down. The water vat would not even get measurably warmer from sucking those few joules from a whole print!
While this could be, in the right setup, be used to rapidly cool the print and *solidify* it in shape, the result of the rapid healing will most likely also impact print quality negatively, as cross-layer bonding is reduced.
## Separator water
It is a well-known trick in creating polymer fibers to extrude underwater, as the water not only cools (see above) but also acts as a separator between the fibers, for the very short timeframe they are still malleable. This would also strike when printing into the water - there'll be a water layer in between the deposited filament, which would need to either get pressed out or cooked out before any cross-extrusion bonding can occur. As a result, just extruding into the water should result in a print that has almost no sturdiness, and might fall apart on touch.
## Floating
Water has a density of 1 g/cm³. PLA has a density of 1.3 g/cm³. So a solid chunk of PLA sinks. But we don't print solid, we include air. Not just a few percent but infill is usually below 20 %. I have just printed a cube. After smoothing the surface by sanding, the cube is 29,7x29.9x29.9 mm. It has 3 parameters, 20% infill, 5 top and bottom layers with 0.2 mm layer height and comes to 11 grams. 11 g/26.55 cm³=0.41 g/cm³. Or in other words: the cube would float, about 40 % under the water surface, 60 % above the surface. The print would be, as a result, quickly break the water surface and get no support from the water at all.
## Submerging the bed?
The main issue of a free-floating object (position) might be mitigated if there was a bed that would be submerged, but one would open a new can of worms, that might be even worse: the volume of the print and the accuracy of pumps.
As the print goes on - quality be dammed - the print grows in volume. However, it doesn't grow entirely linear, depending on two factors:
* Is the print happening on/below the water surface? Then we will include water in the print. The volumetric growth of the print is in this case just the deposited filament. You'll need an overflow to compensate for the print growing and keep the water level in position.
* Is the print happening *just above* the surface of the water? then the displaced volume grows according to the depth of the print in the water. This would mitigate most of the problems from water preventing cross-bonding and causing floating, and even use the heatsink properties more beneficial, as any filament starting to sag will be stopped. It also would prevent water from being encased in the print. However, it does not use surface tension. Also, you'll need an overflow system to keep the water level steady.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I just had the same idea and googled it. My idea was to submerge the whole print platform in the water and lower it down so that the water level and the current layer line are always at the same height. Maybe a pump would be required to counteract the plastic displacing water. Completely floating parts of the print could have a tower with three contact points underneath to keep them in place without having to lift the whole structure.
# Answer
> 0 votes
This is exactly how the $100 Peachy Printer was supposed to work. Unfortunately, fraud sunk the Kickstarter campaign and no-one got their printer.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, support-structures, support-material
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thread-11640 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11640 | Spiral bevel gears in OpenSCAD | 2019-12-29T18:34:06.610 | # Question
Title: Spiral bevel gears in OpenSCAD
I'm trying to design a "Lifting Table" in OpenSCAD which will consist of 2 concentric cylinders. On the inner cylinder I plan to mount 3 un-powered bevel gears vertically plus a 4th powered one each at the proper location/angle to interface with external cylinder's spiral bevel gear and keep the external cylinder level.
OpenSCAD's involute\_gears library makes a bevel gear pair that is close to what I need, but the bigger gear is flat instead of a spiral. How can I get the bigger gear to be a spiral and more than one rotation (level) 720 degrees for example?
# Answer
I read this question a few months ago, and thought I knew what you wanted. Re-reading it now confuses me a little.
But, I think you may be asking for a large, flat surface with a spiral in it, like the tightening mechanism in a 3-jaw chuck. In effect, are you using the large cylinder as a worm gear to drive four gears which ride on it?
I thought you wanted more general bevel gears, and today I found a package in OpenSCAD that looks quite good. it is found at: https://github.com/dpellegr/PolyGear
If this is the answer you were looking for, great. If not, please comment here and I will delete this answer.
> 3 votes
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Tags: openscad
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thread-10712 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10712 | What stepper motor to use in heated chamber | 2019-07-29T05:32:13.097 | # Question
Title: What stepper motor to use in heated chamber
I want to build a 3D printer with a heating chamber of around 90 °C with build area 200x200x200 mm. I have never build a CoreXY system, so my design is currently an XY system with moving X motor (mounted on Y). Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor (there's a way, but I have to provide forced air cooling like NASA did, or water cooling). Extruder is Bowden type. I have already sourced almost all components, but I'm stuck at choosing the motor.
I could find high temperature stepper motor in India (that's where I'm from), but it cost too much. I found one at the Visionminer website, they're the dealers for Intamsys printers, which has a chamber of 90 °C and they are providing replacement stepper motors as well.
Comparing the cost, the motor I found in India costs three times as above. Even with shipping I will save a lot. But one issue is they're not providing any details about torque and current rating. There's one image in the website and it says,
```
MOONS STEPPING MOTOR
TYPE 17HDB001-11N
60904162 18/04/12
```
I thought it might be a MOONS motor, so I contacted them, no reply so far. I tried to find the motor by part number, but failed. I tried mailing Visionminer as well.
Anyone have any idea which motor is this or know any high temperature motors?
Also they use Gates belts, which is rated for 85 °C. How reliable will it be in 90 °C chamber?
I will heat the chamber using a external heater with fan.
My extruder is Bowden, same as you've shown E3D V6, with updated high temp parts. Plated Cu heater block + Nozzle, High temp heating coil and Thermocouple.
But In my design X axis motor is moving one. I mean it's mounted on Y Similar to this image
So it will be inside the chamber and I have to cool it somehow or looks for high temp motor
What I'm trying to print is PEEK, and it requires around 80-90 Degree chamber, and most stepper motors are rated for an ambient temperature of 50 Degrees. And I'm really planning to seal the chamber using SS sheet. It's going to be something like Intamsys funmat HT. What is the biggest print, I mean duration that you run your printer at 60 Degrees?
# Answer
> 3 votes
An alternative to finding steppers that can withstand the heat, you can consider not getting the heat near the steppers:
* *Moving the steppers outside the heated build volume*
With 2 extra pulleys per stepper you can get the steppers outside the build volume.
* *Shield the motors from the heat by placing them in a cooler tunnel or behind a face plate/cover*
You can also shield the steppers from the heat, e.g. the Ultimaker 3(E) the steppers are behind a cover.
Be aware that creating a 90 °C heat chamber, all the printed parts for the CoreXY need to be printed in a filament type that can withstand prolonged exposure to the temperature you want the chamber to be (or be made in metal). For the mentioned temperature this implies the use of some more exotic filament types, see e.g. this answer.
# Answer
> 1 votes
"Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor" Sure you can, the interior doesn't get all that warm unless you really seal it up tight, and that's not really needed. I have an enclosure around my 200x200x200 mm MIGBOT (early Prusa clone with direct drive extruder), printing PLA with 60 °C bed, the interior only gets a few degrees warmer. The motors can take a lot more heat than you think they can.
I have a couple pictures taken from this question, Printer cover for noise abatement, cleanliness, temperature control:
The front & back panels are 18x24 inch polycarbonate from Home Depot, I 3D printed the corner brackets, and added a couple of pieces of wood for some stiffness. The entire front hinges up. The top is 24x24 inch, and the back 6" hinges up to access the SD card that is on the display/control panel.
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I printed 9 2" x 2" pieces for a chess board, took about 8.5 hours I think.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It is possible to buy cheap high temperature steppers. E.g., you can buy LDO 180 °C winding steppers.
They can be used up to 135 °C without additional cooling and with reduced lifetime probably even higher.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Two things matter for the stepper motor: the insulation temperature and the Curie point of the magnet.
You probably aren't near the Curie point.
The critical temperature is the sum of the ambient plus the temperature rise from the drive power. In your case, I would try mounting the motor to a water cooled metal cold plate. Bring the lower temperature to the motor. Mount the full face of the motor to the plate with thermal compound.
Use a tiny pump to move water from a reservoir through the cold plate. For an example, check out the E3D Kracken.
# Answer
> -1 votes
I'm just going to come straight out and say it. If you can't design and build a Core XY system then you should not even attempt a heated build chamber.
The Stratasys 3D printers that have heated chambers use a H-Bot design (the predecessor of CoreXY), so as to keep everything out of the chamber. You can't use a regular hot end. You can't have fans on that hot end to keep it cool. You can't have the motors inside the chamber. You can barely have the filament in the chamber because it could get soft inside the tube.
Some of the answers state that motors can operate at high temps already. That is only true in ambient conditions. The heat that the coils of the motor generate is trying to escape to the outside of the motor. It it much hotter inside! Therefore if you raise the external environment's temp to 90 °C then the heat won't escape as quickly; and if it raises beyond the melt/burn temp then the motor will fail. See:
After that fails the PVC coating on the lead wires will fail, usually resorting in a short, which could destroy the stepper drivers.
Additionally, everything made of metal will expand. The ball bearings will expand, the rails will expand and the hot end will expand. The linear system could become tighter or looser; it could even warp depending on the type of steel. If it becomes looser, then there goes your ability to 3D print! You might end up needing to design and fabricate your parts so that they fit and work properly only when they are at the working temp.
Here is what you need to build:
AON-M2 : High Temperature Industrial 3D Printer
# Answer
> -2 votes
You don't need to worry about the stepper for heating chamber since the direct drive uses a fan for cooling the motor area.
When I started to make my own printer I had the same question but in order to make me feel good and peace. I prefer to use a bowder extruder.
This bowden extruder comes in different sizes: Normal as picture shows above, small, and mini like the other that shows pre assembled below.
However the question should be different like, **Can I print inside an oven?** for this will address the question to other possibilities:
1.- Cover or shield the motor with some foil to avoid the heating
2.- Add a water cooling like CPU, so the water flows from outside to the motor to keep a low temperature.
3.- Add cooling fans, this ones should take te air from outside and tha air can be directed with a corrugated tube for the Extruder motor and the radiator. For the X, Y and Z motors can be a rigid tube.
This cooling fans won't affect the internal chamber temperature due the cooling process is punctual.
4.- Many electronics components are designed to work at 105°, so won't be affected in short terms, however the life of circutry will decrease a lot, since designs cover until 5 years at normal conditions so your printer can last up to 1.5 years.
Recommendations:
I don't see a real reason to keep the printer isolated to high temperatures while the porpuse of this is to keep temperature variations from clime like winter and summer. In my case the print room has a normal temperature of 38°C on summers and -2°C on winter, so how can I print with the same quality on winter if the printer is so cold? *ah, I need a chamber to keep that temperature of summer*. then I made the chamber to acheive 38°C not the whole temperature of the bed print.
If I need to print ABS so I set the bed temperature to 80°C so the parts won´t get warped, due the temperature for adhesive for ABS is the correct; also this temperature won´t over heat the chamber at least near to 60°C, but can it be reduced extracting the heat with other fan. For this case is just only one or two fans.
Note: The Idea to have the whole printer inside an oven will help to keep that 80°-95°C under control is good, but some times is hard to implement it due materials and its purposes are different and serviseable life will be too low.
So your chamber should include the printing area only or follow the recommendation as the picture above. Those photo was taken from the site industrial RepRap and also exposes som e features as i'm suggesting.
# Answer
> -2 votes
Then you need to add water cooling system for them. Something like this:
Also, water cooled hotend would be a go ahead I guess.
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Tags: printer-building, chamber
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thread-14295 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14295 | Anet A8 X axis drive-gear wobble | 2020-08-20T15:21:07.623 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 X axis drive-gear wobble
I've recently noticed that the pulley driving the X-axis belt on my Anet A8 is wobbling quite a lot. I took out my calipers and sure enough the hole wasn't centred. I ordered a new pulley (from a different manufacturer) which arrived today but it was also wobbling, though much less than my old one.
The X-axis motor does not appear to wobble at all, I've tried placing a straight object up against the shaft and ran the motor and could not perceive and wobble at all in the motor, so I know it's not the motor. Before I start ordering more of the same part I wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem or if I'm doing something else wrong (for example if the uncentered pulley is a feature and there's some magical way to mount the belt pulley onto the motor to make sure it does not wobble). My guess is that I've just ordered cheap scrap parts and need to order something more expensive.
Here is a link to a video of the wobble: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkyxN.jpg
# Answer
There are several possible causes for this. From least to worst:
* The part itself is good, but the faceing cover plate is misaligned. No action needed.
* The part is mounted in a way that makes it wobble, re-mounting helps.
* The part is bad and needs to be replaced.
So, let's see the anatomy of a Timing Belt pulley. They exist in basically 3 general types in the McMaster Carr catalog: One flange, two flanges, no flanges. I am not affiliated with them, but they are pretty much one of the parts vendors in the industry that has almost everything, making them the *convenience* option. In the mantra, they are the "fast-good" option with the "everything" bonus and that the catalog of parts with 3D is integrated into fusion360. A similar supplier would be RS.
The part OP ordered is the "With One Flange" design, it is 6mm wide, 5mm axle and 16 teeth. The McMaster Carr catalog has two very close matches to OP's part: 3684N11 & 3684N12, about 6$ for a part machined from a solid piece. Why is that relevant?! well, the part OP ordered is not made from a solid piece but at least two parts: the body and one flange plate, as you can see on the product picture - the plate separation I marked with yellow here:
This is where the first error appears: if the flange isn't mounted centered (in poor quality it is rarely) then it appears to wobble but actually doesn't. But the video shows that the axis seems to be straight, while both the front *and* backside of the pulley wobble in the XY position. This means it is not just the flange that is mis-mounted on the part.
Now, error number 2 is misaligned mounting. In case the bore is good, you can often fix a misalignment by removing the part and mounting it again, more carefully, possibly using some thin shim metal around the axis. In some cases there is a pair of screws already to do this, if not it can help to modify the part with one or two extra alignment screws, allowing to sift the gear's center a slight bit by tensioning the additional screws.
In the case of OP's linked part, the screw that is not radial but protrudes next to the axis is designed to come over the flat of the axis and the other one is to tighten it down.
If the bore for the axis however is really skewed, and even after repeated re-mounting or shimming nothing can be done, a new part is needed. With the measurements of the part, you can order at a lot of online catalogs, the price and quality differ greatly. However, the engineering mantra strikes:
### Cheap, Fast, Good. Choose two.
> 1 votes
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Tags: troubleshooting, anet-a8, x-axis
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thread-14156 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14156 | How does this multiple-curve-beam flexural pivot work? | 2020-07-31T08:46:04.350 | # Question
Title: How does this multiple-curve-beam flexural pivot work?
I found this in Handbook of Compliant Mechanisms (2013), page 162, or at the start of "Chapter 11, Elements of Mechanisms," subsection 11.1.2 Revolute
I don't understand how it's supposed to go from 1 to 2 when b rotates around c.
The description reads:
> This element is a rotational flexural pivot constructed by three curved beams to achieve a large range of motion. Theoretically, this element will rotate without axial-drift motion, because of the symmetric arrangement about the axis.
>
> (1) Rigid body a is fixed. Rigid body b rotates about c-axis.
> (2) Deformed configuration
> (3) Photo of the device.
It's unclear which part of the beam is attached to what. I can understand how one curved beam could switch its curvature (in general, like they do in bi-stable latches), but I don't see how they could both at the end of of the rotation end up curved in a way that's opposite to how they started.
How could c2/c3 go from the configuration in 1 to the configuration in 2 ?
Or could they be two different iterations of the same idea ? I can see how (1) or (2) would resist rotation of c around b, and snap it back to its original position. The text claims (2) is the deformed configuration though. I can also see how (1) with just c1, c3, c5 would deform to (1) with c0, c2, c4 if (b) was turning anti clockwise.
Also, what would be an ideal material to print this kind of compliant mechanism ?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The picture looks as if there is a printed back surface to which the central part is attached. This can not be the case, since otherwise the curved members would not be able to flex. Everything inside the outer ring must be detached from the back shell.
Like all couplers, especially flexible couplers, there is a limit to the amount of torque the coupler can transmit. Within the elastic limits of the material this looks like a good design, and a good match for 3D printing. The forces are along the layers, not across the layers.
This looks like a good design for a rotary coupler. I'm resisting calling it a "shaft" coupler since neither side is equipped with any connection to a shaft. One could modify the design to have a larger central hub with a shaft hole (and set screw(s)). As it is, there is an implied method to hold the outer ring, and a fairly explicit three-pin adapter to drop into the open slots in the arms which connect to the center.
I would use ABS rather than PLA, although it depends on the stiffness you require and ability to sustein abuse. PLA is stiller than ABS, while ABS, within the elastic limits, is more compliant. I am not confident that either of these plastics would stand up to thousands of millions of flexures.
I would prefer to print this of TPU or Nylon. Both of these are tougher than ABS and PLA. They withstand greater flex with fewer problems with micro cracks and degradation. I have printed another shaft coupler of TPU, and it was both compliant and still.
It isn't possible to really nail down a material without knowing the application.
As to your question about one example being a transform of the other, I don't thing they are. The A and B drawings are similar in function, but are not stressed and unstressed versions of the same part. Either will work as a coupler.
# Answer
> -3 votes
I would try and print it in PLA because it is quite flexible. ABS is harder in my experience and breaks more easily. If you are able to print PET, you should also try that for the same reasons. There might also be better materials I've never heard of, also please leave a comment if I'm wrong with anything.
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Tags: 3d-design, material
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thread-14423 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14423 | Bed probing feed rates | 2020-09-13T22:01:54.347 | # Question
Title: Bed probing feed rates
I was watching a friend's Prusa run the bed-probe routine and I realized how pathetically slow mine is and takes forever. I want to speed it up.
What parameters in Marlin's `Configuration.h` do I modify? Also, it seems to retract for the second "accurate" probe by like 10 mm which could be reduced by 8 mm or so. Where is that one? I looked through but can't be sure. Also, could I just change the feedrate in the pre-script?
```
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 8, 50 } // was { 400, 400, 8, 50 }
```
# Answer
To speed up the probing for a touch sensor, a "High Speed" option is available in Configuration\_adv.h which is by default disabled (`//#define BLTOUCH_HS_MODE`) as not all printers/sensors are able to use this.
You can also increase the homing speeds in your `Configuration.h` file.
```
// Homing speeds (mm/min)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (4*60)
.
..
...
..
.
// Feedrate (mm/min) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z
// Feedrate (mm/min) for the "accurate" probe of each point
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)
```
However, you can simply speed up the movement between probe locations by setting the movement speed directly through G-code. The `G29` code, used for automatic probing of the bed surface is described in "G29 Auto Bed Leveling (Marlin - MK4duo)". The `S` parameter in `G29` can be used to set the movement speed between probes, where the units are specified in "units/min", e.g. mm/min.
Note that you potentially can change the Z-height for deployment:
```
/**
* Z probes require clearance when deploying, stowing, and moving between
* probe points to avoid hitting the bed and other hardware.
* Servo-mounted probes require extra space for the arm to rotate.
* Inductive probes need space to keep from triggering early.
*
* Use these settings to specify the distance (mm) to raise the probe (or
* lower the bed). The values set here apply over and above any (negative)
* probe Z Offset set with NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET, M851, or the LCD.
* Only integer values >= 1 are valid here.
*
* Example: `M851 Z-5` with a CLEARANCE of 4 => 9mm from bed to nozzle.
* But: `M851 Z+1` with a CLEARANCE of 2 => 2mm from bed to nozzle.
*/
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points
#define Z_CLEARANCE_MULTI_PROBE 5 // Z Clearance between multiple probes
//#define Z_AFTER_PROBING 5 // Z position after probing is done
```
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling, z-probe, speed
--- |
thread-14421 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14421 | Passing from nozzle diameter 0.4 mm to 0.2 mm causing filament jamming in heater | 2020-09-13T19:46:38.543 | # Question
Title: Passing from nozzle diameter 0.4 mm to 0.2 mm causing filament jamming in heater
Im using Prusa Slicer 2.1 for my FlyingBear Ghost 4.
I just changed my 0.4 mm nozzle for a 0.2 mm but it seems to jam in the heater probably due to too much filament trying to get out by the nozzle. Where is the setting to reduce the filement speed and how much I should reduce it?
Here are my settings: Config.txt
# Answer
0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are half the diameter, but the maximum flow is not just half: Flow scales with the area. The 0.4 mm nozzle has an area 4 times as the 0.2 mm one:
$\frac{A\_1} {A\_2}=\frac {0.2^2}{0.1^2}=4$
You need to reduce `print speed` or the `volumetric flow` by this factor or make sure your printer can handle the increased flow by reducing the viscosity of the melt - for example by increasing the print temperature.
Also note, that a 0.2 mm nozzle can't be operated with layer heights above 0.15 mm.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Here's where you change the speed in Prusa:
As Trish said, you're likely trying to push too much material through too fast.
Steps you can take:
1. Increase print temp
2. Decrease print speed
3. Slice for thinner layers
4. Don't forget to adjust your nozzle diameter and/or extrusion width(s) as well.
I'd personally start with increasing my print temp 10 degrees and cutting my print speed in half, as well as making sure I had 0.2 mm nozzle and extrusion widths.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The discussion about slowing the print speed is important, but in my experience it is not at the root of the problem, and slowing down printing may make it worse.
If ny "heater" you mean the complete hot-end, then I suspect you are jamming in the cooler part of the hot-end. This cooler part is separated from the heater itself by the heat break, which is often a thin-walled metal tube.
The hot side of the heat break is heated by the heater. The cooler-end, the cool side of the heat break, is cooled by two things:
1. cold filament being moved through it and
2. airflow from the fan over the heat sink fins.
It is heated by:
1. Thermal conduction through the thin metal tube
2. Convection airflow from the hot-end vertically and over the cooler-end
3. Hot filament being pulled through the heat break during retraction.
When you are printing with a smaller cross-section of extruded filament, the slicer program should adjust the flow rate and speeds based on the lesser volume of plastic extruded for a given pressure. Unfortunately, this is less plastic, so the filament cools the cooler end of the heat break less than it would if the feed rate were higher. As a result, the temperature of the cooler end goes up. If there is insufficient airflow to keep the cooler side below the softening point of filament, the filament softens and jams inside the cooler end.
Of course, if your jam actually is in the hot end, this discussion is not relevant.
But, I have found with my Prusa i3m3 that I have had problems with jamming in the cooler end, especially when I printed filament with a higher melting temperature, ABS in this case. I reduced the area of the airflow so that no air could pass through other than by passing over the heat sink fins, and the ABS printed correctly.
All of 3D printing is a balance of one factor against another. It is hard to lose, though, by increasing the cooler-end temperature. All will seem well until you print something with a lower flow, or a higher retraction rate, or you try using a higher temperature for the same filament. Then the jam can unexpectedly occur, or, perhaps worse, it can be an intermittent jam, or there can be a lot to sticktion, and printing becomes prone to gaps, or occasional under extrusion.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament, nozzle, flyingbear-ghost-4
--- |
thread-14417 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14417 | "configuration files" issue when trying to run Ultimaker Cura on RPI 4 | 2020-09-12T18:47:13.290 | # Question
Title: "configuration files" issue when trying to run Ultimaker Cura on RPI 4
I have installed Cura on my RPI 4 by using the "sudo apt-get install cura" terminal command.
Whenever I try to run the application, however, I get this:
Is there something wrong with the configuration files? I have tried clicking the "Backup and reset configuration", and even deleting the configuration files folder. But it doesn't help.
# Answer
The regular version of Cura has system requirements that the Raspberry Pi cannot meet, including the GPU required to run it.
However, it looks like you can try an experimental version of Cura **here**.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, raspberry-pi
--- |
thread-14432 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14432 | Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mk2 Firmware Update | 2020-09-15T09:06:13.393 | # Question
Title: Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mk2 Firmware Update
I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus Mk2. Its auto-leveling never worked properly since I bought it a year or two ago. I decided to upgrade the firmware to try and solve this problem. Unfortunately, I did not know I had a Mk2 when I started this process (I'm a photographer, it is only a Mk2 when it says so on the Camera housing which is seemingly not the case here, you needed to be fortunate to know it is a Mk2 if it has a Z probe). As such, I uploaded the wrong motherboard and LCD firmware (for i3 Plus not i3 Plus Mk2). When I switched on and tried to level, it started driving the nozzle into the bed which in retrospect is to be expected as the firmware is looking for a switch, not a probe. Once I realised what the problem was, I uploaded the Mk2 firmware but it seems uploading the non-Mk2 firmware has confused something somewhere so I can't get it to even be a printer anymore. The LCD is all mixed up with menus over one another and the printer does not react to anything. I tried to format the LCD with the image and procedure on Wanhao's site but this merely seems to exacerbate the problem.
Can anyone please guide me on how to start fresh and get the printer and LCD firmware restored so at least I have something resembling a printer again. The Wanhao customer support has been all but helpful and I've abandoned that channel as they simply email me the same firmware I already downloaded and used to get into this mess.
# Answer
My problem was resolved with the help of comments above.
> A quick Google search shows that there are multiple issues with updating to new firmware for printer and LCD (these are separate firmwares!). Useful links are this one and this one which have support for the MkII.
> ...
> Try to disconnect the display if you go down the Arduino route and see if you get it running while connected to serial (USB) and Pronterface for instance. When pursuing the Arduino route, be sure to send `M502` and `M500` after the flash to the printer to get the values from the firmware and overwrite the current stuff in the EEPROM.
I downloaded the Mk2 firmware from here and then used the normal Wanhao procedure to update both the motherboard and LCD and this left me with a working printer afterwards. Why the firmware downloaded from Wanhao's own site does not work is a mystery.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: firmware
--- |
thread-14438 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14438 | Creality CR-10 board upgrade from V1.0 to V2.0 questions | 2020-09-16T23:51:57.613 | # Question
Title: Creality CR-10 board upgrade from V1.0 to V2.0 questions
I have a base Creality CR-10 that I have had for 10 months. Since then I have added Z-axis braces and a Z-axis dual lead screw. I have a Filament runout sensor that I want to add and I want to add a BLTouch bed leveling. I know I can probably squeeze those last two upgrades in using the V1.0 board that came with the CR10, but I really want to upgrade boards to the V2.0 that use the TMC2208 drivers.
My questions are:
* Any issues compatibility wise or firmware wise that I might run into while upgrading
* Also I know that the V2.5 board uses Marlin firmware, is that the same firmware that the V1.0 uses
* Is it worth it to upgrade to BLTouch. I have viewed several youtube videos and read several websites/posts on using it but I am not that clear on whether you would have to ever use the manual bed leveling adjustments or does BLTouch take care of that forever?
Any insights, comments or links to useful posts/websites very much appreciated!
# Answer
> 0 votes
> Any issues compatibility wise or firmware wise that I might run into while upgrading
These boards are 8-bit boards with limited storage capacity for your firmware, if you would need an update, as an alternative solution, a 32-bit board may be a much better solution.
> Also I know that the V2.5 board uses Marlin firmware, is that the same firmware that the V1.0 uses
I do not own this board so I can't say for sure, a generic remark would be that the Marlin 2.x branch works fine on 8-bit boards (from experience with some of my own boards), but you frequently see (does not have be the case for this board!) that these OEMs use the latest from the 1.1.9 branch. The only drawback is that you sometimes need to be creative to fit the firmware on the board, the more options, the more memory is used.
> Is it worth it to upgrade to BLTouch
That depends on the state of your heated bed/build platform. If the build platform is not flat, but is somewhat curved, you may see improvements in bed adhesion when you correctly add a sensor that maps the surface and adjusts for it during printing. If it is flat, manual leveling works fine.
> I am not that clear on whether you would have to ever use the manual bed leveling adjustments or does BLTouch take care of that forever?
Even when using a sensor that maps the surface of the build platform, you should always try to deliver a bed that is as level as possible. In videos you often see the bed tilted (very much exaggerated); you need to remember that the printer will print in a plain level after about 10 mm (or to a different height, determined in your firmware or set by G-code), a skew platform will give you a skew print.
---
Tags: marlin, creality-cr-10, bltouch
--- |
thread-14435 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14435 | MINTEMP BED Fixed error when running consecutive print | 2020-09-15T18:22:11.730 | # Question
Title: MINTEMP BED Fixed error when running consecutive print
I am using "Pretty PETG" along with PrusaSlicer's consecutive print mode.
What I am noticing is that upon finishing the first print, the printer hits `MINTEMP BED Fixed`. I'm not sure if it's immediate because I let the prints run overnight but I assume the bed cools down and then the error is hit.
I'm just starting to learn G-code and my initial thought was there's an errant bed temperature instruction but the only `M140 S0` instructions I see are in the `end_gcode` and near the bottom of the file. Maybe there a `goto` in G-code which may be running after `M140 S0` which then causes the `MINTEMP BED` issue? Perhaps there's something else going on?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The bed minimum temperature is defined in your configuration file, e.g.:
```
#define BED_MINTEMP 5
```
If the error is displayed, it means that the measured temperature drops below this level.
> What I am noticing is that upon finishing the first print
This could hint to a faulty heatbed connector where the connection is lost because the bed moves to the end positions (hard to say without seeing the end G-code).
Basically, you could have a connection to bed thermistor that is intermittently failing, or a bad bed thermistor. If connection is lost the temperature defaults to 0 °C or a lower setting.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is most likely a hardware problem, namely the heat bed thermistor cable.
To confirm this as the root cause, here's what you can try
* Reboot the printer
* Move the y axis around to make sure there is freedom of movement at both ends
* Jigger the thermistor cable around in multiple directions at multiple points on the cable
If you hit `BED MINTEMP` or `BED_MINTEMP fixed` then you have found a cable angle/position that causes the issue. You may need to replace the cable.
The issue could also happen at the connection with Einsey. If the wrapped cable going into Einsey is moved, the connection may be faulty.
* Ground yourself
* Open Einsy
* Ground yourself
* Reboot the printer
* Jigger the connection to Einsey
If you hit `BED MINTEMP` or `BED_MINTEMP fixed` then the connection is bad. Try unplugging and replugging the cable. Look at the connectors on both sides to try to determine if the source is the cable or Einsey. You may need to replace the cable or repair the Einsey connector.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, g-code, petg, prusaslicer, prusa-research
--- |
thread-14443 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14443 | Wiring heatbed into Main using ATX | 2020-09-18T08:11:19.887 | # Question
Title: Wiring heatbed into Main using ATX
I had my 3D printer powered by dual 24 V PSUs wired in parallel and my heatbed was wired into the main using a SSR to help power it. I replaced the two PSUs with a single Corsair 750 W ATX. My printer runs smoother and there's much less wiring clutter to deal with but now no matter what the heatbed will not heat up.
The main connection of the ATX I purchased is an 8 pin connection so I tried using all 4 wires to power my printer and it didn't make a difference, I tried using the SSR again using 2 connections from the ATX leaving the other 2 to run the motherboard but that didn't work either. I even tried MOSFET and that also failed. I don't see why the Heatbed no longer heats up yet the thermistor is more accurate and working properly since my switch to the ATX, do I need to go up to a 1000 W ATX instead? I can't imagine what more I could do.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You indicated that you were using 24 volts, implying you have a 24 volt bed. ATX power supplies do not have 24 volt outputs. The highest is 12 volts which would heat up the bed, but not fast or probably to full temperature.
# Answer
> 0 votes
voltage = current x resistance
An ATX PSU is designed to only allow approximately 16 amps per pair of YELLOW and BLACK wires. The yellow is 12 V and the black is GND. If your bed were rated at 24 V then its resistance would be higher than that of the 12 V bed. The best solution for you would be to get a 12 V heated bed, as opposed to using a boost converter. Reason being is that you would need to get a boost converter that can tolerate over 200 W of power! It's just cheaper to replace the bed.
Finally, you need to consider the heat bed, the extruders and the steper motor's power needs before you purchase a PSU. If you had a multimeter with a current measurement, then you could accurately determine how much power each one uses and then purchase to size. Based on your bed size (600 mm) I think that 500 W should be enough.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, heated-bed, electronics, switching-power-supply
--- |
thread-14418 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14418 | Artillery Sidewinder X1 3DTouch not working | 2020-09-13T05:44:54.303 | # Question
Title: Artillery Sidewinder X1 3DTouch not working
The printer I am working on is an Artillery Sidewinder X1.
I have fitted it with a 3DTouch (BLTouch clone) bed leveling probe purchased from Bangood.
I have printed a mount for it and plugged it into the main board. Once that was done, I edited the firmware and enabled all settings for the 3DTouch roughly following the directions from Teaching Tech's video here. After flashing the firmware, an error message appears on every boot saying:
```
Failed to enable Bed Leveling
echo: Bed Leveling off echo:
Fade Height Off ok
```
After pressing confirm, ABL routine does not work. It homes the X-axis, then the Y-axis, deploys and stows the 3DTouch probe once. It also will show an error message for a split second (so I am unable to know what it says) the comes up with an EEPROM message.
Auto homing does the same thing as ABL routine but with a different error:
```
STOP called because of BLTouch
error - restart with M999
Error:Printer stopped due to errors.
Fix the error and use
M999 to restart. (Temperature
is reset. Set it after res[e]t
```
I have also zipped up my Marlin firmware configuration I am currently using. They can be found here: here.
My servo pin is connected to D11 and my two wire pin is connected to the ZMAX endstop. Here is a diagram:
# Answer
> 2 votes
Ok so I did a bit of testing with the wiring and it turns out I just had the 3DTouch in the Z- socket instead of Z+ :-) . Another idiot mistake from me!
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, bed-leveling, 3dtouch, artillery-sidewinder-x1
--- |
thread-14449 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14449 | Thermal runaway | 2020-09-18T20:24:21.120 | # Question
Title: Thermal runaway
I have a bit of a headache with my Anycubic i3 Mega which originally had a Trigorila 32-bit board.
I decided to swap it because of loud A4988 drivers and got myself an MKS Robin Nano 1.2.
This printer is heavily modded. All the hot-end is swapped to MT2.
Now, MT2 mod was done with Trigorilla, so no problems back then. Also, I know that Anycubic locks their max fan speed at ~80 %, so with that in mind done tests with 100/80/50/30 % cooling fan and the result is the same; temperature drops, and I get "Thermal Runaway".
Now, the strangest part is: If I set manually 200 °C, wait for it to climb, and then blast 255 °C on the cooling fan, it drops to 199 °C and then back to 200 °C.
I have added a picture below, it has been like this already for about 15-20 min, no probs.
PID autotune was performed numerous times, with values saved, PID repeated, new values stored, etc.
* Anycubic i3 Mega
* MKS Robin Nano 1.2
* E3D V6 original.
* Marlin 2.0.5.3
And snippets from Marlin cfg:
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define BANG_MAX 255 // Limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current
#define PID_MAX BANG_MAX // Limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current
#define PID_K1 0.95 // Smoothing factor within any PID loop
// Ai3 mega
#define DEFAULT_Kp 27.69
#define DEFAULT_Ki 2.02
#define DEFAULT_Kd 94.89
```
---
***Additional information (1):***
I have XYZ cube and fan on from layer 3 G-code. It always seems to fail on layer 3, so turned manually fan from layer one, was printing fine till layer 3 and then thermal runaway.
Done a test, sent G-code to see if `M106` is an issue.
```
M104 S210 T0
M109 S210 T0
M106 S204
```
But no, printer kept temperature steady... Makes me crazy, please help
---
***Additional information (2):***
I updated all the images:
# Answer
> 1 votes
*Thank you for updating the pictures (twice) and giving us the info to work with!*
---
At the moment I see two things:
* First, the printhead doesn't reach the 210 °C set into it in the last timeframe. After some time of printing, this forces TRP (Thermal runaway protection) as the board thinks: ***"HEY! my thermistor might be loose, I try to HEAT here!"***
* Second, your graph shows that in the first area, your printhead actually is able to reach the temperature. But something does change which prevents it from holding the temperature.
Then, there's the Anecdotal note:
> running same print without cooling fan and its going steady
Those three together tell us exactly what is going on: The airstream from the part cooling fan must somehow brush over the hotend, cooling the heater block and throwing off the measurements.
## Fixing in
There are basically 2 things how you can deal with that:
* isolate the printhead from the airstream. There are a lot of solutions for that:
+ Silicone sock to keep away the airstream
+ Kepton Tape/Tinfoil to try to imitate a silicone sock
+ different position or geometry of the fan duct to not hit the heater block
* turn off/tune down the fan
---
Tags: troubleshooting, hotend, mks
--- |
thread-14115 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14115 | Replacement teflon (PTFE) liner For Dremel 3D45 | 2020-07-21T18:56:56.087 | # Question
Title: Replacement teflon (PTFE) liner For Dremel 3D45
I had filament on my 3D45 coming out of threads on the nozzle.
To fix this I removed the nozzle to find the PTFE Liner in really bad shape. It looked crushed and deformed. Now the tough part, how do I replace the PTFE Liner. You can't seem to buy the liner and getting a replacement nozzle assembly from Dremel takes weeks. Can anybody help me figure this out please, I really would like to get back to printing!!
# Answer
The initial problem you had with filament coming out of the threads at the nozzle is caused by improper seating of the heat break to the nozzle. In a "from the ground up" installation, you'd have an empty heat block, containing your heater core and your thermistor. Threaded into the "bottom" of the block is the nozzle, just a turn shy of being flush with the heat block. The heat break is the thin threaded segment extending from the heavily finned heat sink.
The heat sink/heat break combination is threaded into the heat block until it contacts the nozzle, at which time, the nozzle is snugged into place securely. This keeps continuous the filament path from the heat break to the nozzle. Somewhere in time, a gap opened between the two.
When you have assembled everything (including the PTFE liner), you'll want to heat the extruder assembly to about 250 °C and re-snug the nozzle to the heat block and heat break. Hold securely the heater block, as you do not want to apply force that will snap or otherwise damage the fragile heat break. Use a wrench that fits the heater block without contacting the wiring. Use a wrench that will keep your fingers safe, as the heat block will be hot.
Stepping back in time a bit, when you remove the assembly, you should be able to determine the necessary length for the PTFE tube. I checked the manual for your printer and it is lacking in detail for this information. The diameters you've specified are standard and you should be able to locate a suitable substitute from many online sources. Amazon, Matterhackers, eBay, etc.
Examine the heat break tubing. The diameter should not be so small as to allow you to push the PTFE tubing in from the heater block side, unless you have an unusually manufactured product. Dremel may have decided to create a new bit of engineering, but I'd expect not.
You'll purchase more PTFE than required and examination of the upper portion of the heat sink should give you a clue how much to use. When the cover of the extruder assembly is removed, is there a guide for the filament to make it easier to push through the PTFE tubing? If so, the length of the PTFE is from the bottom of the guide to the bottom of the bore of the heat sink/heat break assembly.
Photos of the upper entry to the heat sink/heat break, with the cover removed, would be useful, but you may have sufficient resources in hand to resolve your problem, once you replace the nozzle and purchase PTFE tubing of the correct size.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Capricorn sells 3x2mm ptfe heat break tube. Havnt used it long enough to know if it will hold up to its claims of withstanding temps up to 275c and beyond for any length of time; but I do know the generic ptfe I had in it before lived up to its reputation of going funny at 240c even though they sell it as rated for 250c. But capricorn has a good reputation in general it seems; and I can already testify that the reduction in friction in my bowden tube certainly did live up to the hype, so id recommend giving them a try.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: bowden, replacement-parts, ptfe-tube
--- |
thread-13992 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13992 | Delamination issue Ender 3 Pro PLA | 2020-07-01T17:55:55.550 | # Question
Title: Delamination issue Ender 3 Pro PLA
I recently bought some SUNLU PLA black filament and was attempting a small print with it and it started to come out in strings and lumps and was incredibly inconsistent. Before this I'd been using some Eryone PLA and those prints were superb, been printing back to back successfully but after using the SUNLU all of my prints since have been having layer separation issues. I've cleaned the extruder, taken off the fan and cleared out the hotend of some wisps of filament, then flushed it through with some more reliable filament which looked better and replaced my magnetic bed sticker with a new one as the adhesion on the initial layer was poor even though the bed looked level. Once I replaced the sticker, the adhesion on the first layer is excellent. I thought I'd fixed the problems so tried an XYZ cube and still getting serious layering issues and the infill is thin. Any ideas what else I could do to fix this problem? I've put slicer settings below:
* Hot end temp: 210 °C
* Bed temp: 60 °C
* Fan speed: 100 %
* Print speed: 50 mm/s
No custom modifications to the standard Cura profile for the Ender 3.
My filament diameter setting in Cura is 1.75 mm and so is my filament.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Just to update on this, it wasn't directly a configuration setting, it was actually a blockage in the hotend (I suspect because the PTFE tube had become unseated from some black filament that was stated as 1.75 mm but I think it had a larger diameter). After clearing through my hotend with some PTFE tube, I found a disk of the black filament I initially started having this problem with. The issue was resolved once I cleared through the hotend and I now check all my filament with my digital callipers to be sure it's the correct diameter before running it through to save me heaps of pain.
# Answer
> 4 votes
This is under extrusion, not delamination. Delamination is the result of the under extrusion.
It typically happens when the wrong filament diameter has been set in the slicer (a larger diameter than used, e.g 2.85 mm instead of 1.75 mm). Another option is that you accidentally put the printer in volumetric printing mode which is accessible through the display of the printer:
`Control -> Filament -> E in mm³ -> Disable`
Other solutions may be found in the extrusion process, e.g. the extruder may be skipping.
---
Tags: infill, layer-height, delamination
--- |
thread-14454 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14454 | 12864 LCD image not centered? | 2020-09-19T09:28:57.993 | # Question
Title: 12864 LCD image not centered?
Just flashed my Ender 5 Plus with the TH3D firmware so I could add an 12864... started a print and then a few minutes later I notice this on the LCD!
How would I fix this?
# Answer
There seems to be an issue with these cheap controllers with the timing.
With reference to the next reported issues:
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/5703 https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/5720
Add these 3 lines after the `#define ENDER5_PLUS` in the firmware files:
```
#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(250)
#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(250)
#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(250)
```
> 1 votes
---
Tags: lcd-screen
--- |
thread-14462 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14462 | PLA does not stick to center of the bed anymore | 2020-09-21T01:17:54.223 | # Question
Title: PLA does not stick to center of the bed anymore
I have used my printer (Flying Bear Ghost 4) for the last year and a few days ago I noticed that the center of the heat bed does not stick like it used to.
I think it can be caused by the fact that I always print at the center of the bed (glass) and the center is now too much used.
Is there a way to fix it or will I need another bed?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Actually I washed my heat-bed with some dishes soap and dried it very well, releveled it and now all is fine. I guess it was greasy even if i cleaned it as usual.
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Tags: heated-bed, bed-leveling, flyingbear-ghost-4
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thread-14439 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14439 | Will I still be able to export my Fusion 360 models to other CAD packages after Autodesk's recent license changes come into effect? | 2020-09-17T01:06:18.653 | # Question
Title: Will I still be able to export my Fusion 360 models to other CAD packages after Autodesk's recent license changes come into effect?
On 16 September 2020, Autodesk announced changes in the way that Fusion 360 can be used for non-commercial use with their Personal license. As a hobbyist, most of these changes will not affect me very much, since I do not use Fusion 360's advanced features. The most irksome will be only being allowed to have up to ten "documents" active at any one time, the rest having to be archived.
However, Autodesk are also restricting the number of file formats that you can export to. For example, the STEP file format will no longer be available with the Personal license. Will this mean that I will not be able to move my models to another CAD package, such as FreeCAD, once the changes come into effect (without first buying a commercial license)?
Autodesk: Changes to Fusion 360 for personal use
**Edit: Good news. Autodesk have announced, on 25 September 2020, that the facility to export models to STEP files will be retained for the free-to-use, personal license.**
# Answer
> 4 votes
Most of my answer is based off of what Autodesk has said and this video from Maker's Muse, which explains this topic in much more detail.
In summary, Autodesk is planning on restricting your ability to export any parametric file formats like .STEP or .IGES, leaving no useful CAD-specific files available for users with personal licenses.
I would recommend exporting everything you want to keep as .STEP right now just in case you do decide to switch programs later on, because you won't be able to switch after the changes go into effect.
I hope that helps.
EDIT: As Oscar has pointed out, .STEP exporting is now also part of the general consumer's license, and you can export to other CAD packages at any time. As far as I can tell, other parametric formats, notably .IGES, is still not available for consumers. This shouldn't pose too much of a problem.
I'm going to leave my original post intact for now.
# Answer
> 1 votes
# If you use the private license: there was supposed to be a cutoff date.
As long as you use the "private" license, you will get some restrictions. Originally, including the lock off of `.step` and similar files as well as limiting you to 10 active projects. This means, that you will need to deactivate some to make room for new ones, but unless you have many interlocking parts, 10 can be quite a lot for a hobbyist.
They also lock off features that are pretty much only useful for small companies - and if you are in the shoes missing those features, you are on the wrong free license anyway.
In late (25<sup>th</sup>.) September 2020, the lock of `.step` was reversed, but other formats will still no longer be available.
# This does not apply to all free licenses
Note that this does not apply to the free education license for teachers and students or the free business license for sub 100,000 \\$ companies. You might want to consider swapping to either of these two plans if you qualify.
# Last words
I agree with Thomas Sanladerer: Autodesk is under no obligation to offer a free version at all and even a somewhat restricted, locked into the Autodesk-world version is much better than nothing. I will keep using it, but I am also in the education space and thus not directly affected.
---
Tags: fusion360
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thread-8242 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8242 | Anet A8 ignores extruder temperature? | 2019-02-12T13:52:20.063 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 ignores extruder temperature?
I don't understand what's wrong with my G-code. I have set the printing temperature to 195 °C but when I try to print, the target temperature is always 0 °C and printing never starts.
I have tried changing material preset to different PLA profiles but that didn't help at all.
G-code:
```
;FLAVOR:RepRap
;TIME:1736
;Filament used: 0.676205m
;Layer height: 0.1
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1
T0
M190 S50
M104 S195
M109 S195
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
M117 Print0ng...
M83 ;relative extrusion mode
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:96
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F600 X90.425 Y93.152 Z0.3
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F1500 E6.5
...
```
In addition, the extruder and heat sensor are working. An older G-code file correctly sets 200 °C as the target temperature for the extruder.
This G-code prints just fine
```
;FLAVOR:RepRap
;TIME:4628
;Filament used: 1.44191m
;Layer height: 0.15
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1
T0
M190 S60
M104 S200
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
M117 Print0ng...
M83 ;relative extrusion mode
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:80
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F4800 X72.96 Y99.484 Z0.3
;TYPE:SKIRT
---
```
---
*Note, I have never modified the firmware or changed anything except what I can change with the frontpanel.*
# Answer
I got the same problem today and after a lot of troubleshooting (following the answers here) I found out that the **issue was the connection to the hotbed**. After I clean out the connection to the hotbed the printer started working as usual. The debugging logic was that **the printer heats up the hotbed *before* setting the extruder temperature**.
Looking to your LCD the issue seems to be the same, since 33 degrees is a normal ambient temperature.
> 2 votes
# Answer
There is nothing wrong with the G-code, `M109 S195` sets and waits for the temperature to reach the set point. There must be a different reason, other than G-code, why the temperature is not set correctly.
After updating your question by adding another G-code script, the conclusion is that there is nothing wrong with the G-code itself. The problem is that the printer cannot set the 195 °C temperature.
Could it be that the minimum temperature is 200 °C and that it doesn't set a temperature lower than the minimum value?
If you are comfortable enough to flash a new firmware **(which you should always do with an Anet A8 as it has no thermal runaway protection)** you could try to see if this is a firmware problem.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Double check the physical connection to the heating element and the thermistor that go in the hot end. Those wires and crimps aren't great. I had one fail on me out of the box with my A8. Re-crimping did the trick.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Be sure that you are using the version of Cura (14.07) that comes on the SD card provided with the printer. I ran into this same thing after updating Cura, largely because it prompts you to when it starts.
> 1 votes
# Answer
You don't mention printing via a connected computer over USB, so I assume you're printing from an SD card. I think the most likely cause of your problem is a corrupted filesystem on the SD card, or bad SD card. I've had many occasions where my printer (Ender 3 with Marlin, stock and upgraded to 2.0) fails to see files or correctly read files despite them being readable when the SD card is put in a PC; I suspect the microcontroller library implementations of FAT filesystem reading are less tolerant of errors than real filesystem drivers on Windows, Linux, etc.
Try backing up all the files you care about on the SD card, reformatting it, and repopulting it with known-good files and see if the problem goes away.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code, troubleshooting, anet-a8
--- |
thread-14470 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14470 | Anet A8 board USB broken? | 2020-09-22T17:04:48.637 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 board USB broken?
I'm trying to connect my PC to my Anet A8 through Pronterface on Ubuntu.
But when I'm clicking on the "connect" button in Pronterface, all I see is "*Connecting ...*".
What I did so far
* added my user to the `dialout` group
* tried to run it as `root`
* tried different baudrates
* switch to different USB cables
* tried to install and run it on a different machine and different OS (Windows) with nearly the same result (additionally I see repeated lines with `M105`, but no response)
The printer itself works - I want to connect to it, to "PID tune" it, because I added a different fan duct.
**How can I make sure the board isn't somewhat damaged, and its just my setup?**
# Answer
I have this printer and used this board many times over USB.
The genuine Arduino boards use the FTDI FT232RL to convert USB signals to UART signals.
The problem with these Arduino based clone boards is that they do not use the FTDI chips as these are too expensive. These boards use a CH340G chip which is a Chinese clone which requires a specific driver to be installed before you can communicate with the board:
*Image shows a close-up of the CH340G chipset on the Anet A8 controller board.*
When you bought the printer, the SD-card contained the driver that you need to install on your OS. I remember that this driver was for the Windows OS. However, you can download the driver for many platforms (Windows, Mac and Linux) directly from the manufacturer.
> 1 votes
# Answer
You may need to install a device driver for the USB interface chip that your printer uses. I'm guessing that the Anet A8 uses a clone of the FTDI FT232RL chip (which was and may still be common with cheap Chinese printers).
If this is the case, you will need to install the appropriate driver from this site: FTDI Chip Virtual COM Port Drivers.
Edit: I can confirm that Pronterface will not work with my Tronxy X1 (which uses an FT232RL clone) on the latest version of Ubuntu.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: anet-a8, pronterface, linux
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thread-14474 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14474 | CR-10 heating problem | 2020-09-23T12:06:31.297 | # Question
Title: CR-10 heating problem
I've been happily printing on my CR-10 for a couple of months but now there is an issue. As soon as I turn it on the hot-end begins heating. I have replaced the heater and the thermistor but the problem remains. The panel on the control box shows 0 for the commanded temperature, but the actual temp just keeps rising. Anyone know what could be wrong?
# Answer
If you power the printer and it starts heating up the hotend, it most probably is caused by a faulty controller board. More specific, the MOSFET (as in an electronic switch component) controlling the current to the heater element is causing this. MOSFET devices usually fail short-circuit implying that when the MOSFET has failed, the current can freely run to the heater element without being controlled by the board.
If you are handy with electronics, you can replace the MOSFET, but it might be better to upgrade to a newer controller board as there may be other damage as well.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: hotend, electronics, creality-cr-10, heat-management
--- |
thread-14427 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14427 | Problem with grid infill (line positioning) | 2020-09-14T10:28:16.200 | # Question
Title: Problem with grid infill (line positioning)
I have a problem with the grid infill on my BCN3D+ Dual Paste extruder: when I print a structure the lines of the infill are not evenly printed, every two lines the gap between the lines is higher (see the photo) while in the Simplify printing preview (preview image) the space between the infill lines is the same all the time. Do someone know if it can be a problem of the printer or a Simplify command?
# Answer
It looks like a case of one axis affecting the other. This is a subset of cases where things are not rigid enough. Basically the movement direction in X is causing an offset in the Y, or whatever you want to call the axes. It is present in small amounts in all screw-driven setups where the screw essentially acts as a wedge, and can be in others for various other reasons. The solution is to tighten up your linear bearings/slides so that there is less transverse play.
There is also a chance that you are trying to print beyond the resolution of your printer, in which case it is "rounding" to the nearest within its capabilities, but that seems less likely.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, infill, paste-extruder
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thread-14478 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14478 | Problems with the right Z axis | 2020-09-23T19:24:17.353 | # Question
Title: Problems with the right Z axis
My 3D printer was working perfectly, but one day I put it inside an acrylic box and put it to work, that was not a good idea, because the Z axis grabbed the box, after that, the Z axis started to rotate strange, I even tried to change the wires between the motors and the drivers, but it didn't work.
I have a suspicion that the drive must have a safety criterion, so when something strange happens it stops sending the necessary current for the stepper to run, if it is possible. Does someone have any tips on how to make it work correctly again? Remembering that the motor that is working in a strange way is the motor on the right side of the Z axis, the motor on the left side looks normal. Below I will leave a video showing how the printer is working, like, if it moves just a little bit with the Z axis, it looks like it works normally, but if I move it a little more, then it starts to get weird.
On this printer, I used a AtMega Arduino, with RAMPS 1.4 shield, with A4988 drivers, "NEMA 17" steppers and and I'm using the Repetier-host program to control the printer.
Video:
# Answer
I've had this happen before on various Prusa i3 style printers, especially with my homemade tight self printed POM linear bearings for the Z linear shaft. The problem is that the right side Z axis has some sort of friction caused by a skew frame, probably caused by the incident you had earlier.
You need to check whether the X axis carriage goes up and down smoothly. Unscrew the lead screw couplers or the trapezoid nuts and check the movement. If it catches friction, try solve where it comes from. The friction is causing the stepper to skip steps and causes the unsynchronized up/down movement. Please check if the frame or the rods have not bent, the distance between the linear guide rails needs to be the same over the complete height.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, z-axis, ramps-1.4, nema-17
--- |
thread-14481 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14481 | How to identify what type of filament an unlabeled spool is | 2020-09-24T00:01:41.050 | # Question
Title: How to identify what type of filament an unlabeled spool is
So I have some old filament that I originally got for a 3D pen. The problem is it's unlabeled and I haven't been able to find anything that might help me distinguish whether it's PLA or ABS. The bag it all came in says that wherever this filament came from only makes PLA and ABS so it's got to be on of those two.
I have a roll of PLA in my 3D printer right now, but I can't tell if it's the same as the filament I have for the 3D pen. It's been a while since I've used the 3D pen, but I do remember whenever you used it, it would produce a very very bad smell. I've also noticed that the filament seems to be more flexible that the PLA in my machine. This makes me think it could be ABS, because the PLA smells far better than what I remember the 3D pen smelling like, and it's more flexible.
I also don't really want to do any heat tests or anything on the filament, so if the smell and flexibility is enough to determine which filament it is, could anyone tell me?
# Answer
Mick's suggestion is a good one. PLA may shed some color in acetone, but ABS will dissolve completely in a suitable amount of time. If you have dark filament, you can test by flexing the filament until it breaks. ABS will sometimes/often/usually fatigue with a white break line, while PLA does not exhibit this tendency as much.
PLA has a somewhat sweet smell, which may be the corn sugars burning off, while ABS has a much more chemical-like odor.
Not doing heat testing does limit your options.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Just burn it and check flame color.
I know you mentioned that you would like to avoid heat test, but this method is much faster and easier then other techniques.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament
--- |
thread-6723 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6723 | What glues for bonding printed PLA to injection-molded plastic? | 2018-08-23T12:08:25.053 | # Question
Title: What glues for bonding printed PLA to injection-molded plastic?
I will be creating a small tube styled piece to use as a junction between two pieces of plastic. The idea is to reattach the two pieces and provide strength so they don't break apart again. I plan on using PLA.
My question is, will superglue (cyanoacrylate) work best for this or are there better choices for attaching PLA to hard (injected molded) plastic? The big thing I'm wanting to make sure is if any of these glues will dissolve the PLA and whether some glues might bond better than others.
# Answer
PLA is a nice one, and gluing has been a topic on some of our most favorite maker's channels. For example Stefan from CNC kitchen (this video) and Joel the 3DPrinting Nerd (this video). Also, in 2022, Tom's 3D ran a test on glues for PLA, PETG and resin prints. Here some information from them together with my own experiences. Most of these glues are not exactly PLA specific by the way and work for many other materials too. Be careful with PLA containing infil though, as that can seriously alter the properties.
## Step 0: Safety First!
Some of these methods are working with chemicals that can irritate the skin (resin, cyanoacrylate), have irritating fumes (acetone), or are flammable (acetone). Others (Cyanoacrylate) are not heat-stable and break down into their components under heat.
### Use proper protection when working with glue! Eye protection and respiratory protection, as well as gloves, are to be used when necessary. Read the manual of the products you are working with!
## Preparations
For most glues, it is advisable to prepare the surface: sand it to increase the surface area, remove grease from fingerprints etc. Follow the manual!
## Glues
* Cyanoacrylate - yep, the "one kind for all" is a solution for PLA too: Superglue. However, look out for what type you get! Some are clearly better than others, and using an accelerator can change the properties of the glue spot.
+ Together with talcum powder, CA glue ("superglue") can fill gaps easily. However, a gap-bridging bond isn't the strongest, and working can be finicky. Yet if the parts do sit flush, a CA glue bond can be a almost as strong as any 2-component glue bond tested, according to Tom.
+ **CA is not stable under heating and when heated too much it breaks apart into a rather noxious fume!** This can be handy to break metal-CA-metal bonds in machining of small parts but keep this in mind if you want to use inserts or plastic-soler pieces on the same areas! Don't tack with CA in those cases.
* Epoxy resin - Epoxy is a favorite for very tough gluing, a few droplets can stick a car to the roof... and it warms up in curing. If you take a slow curing resin, you can safely use it to glue PLA without the part deforming.
+ **Uncured Resin and their hardeners are strong skin irritants.**
* 2-Component Acrylic resin is just as good as epoxy often, as Tom noticed. It's very comparable to Epoxy in performance.
* Urethanes \- 2 Component Urethanes offer strong but flexible bonds and work great according to Joel. Their curing process is also exothermic, so take care to not 'cook' your piece.
* 2-phase Putty - in a similar vein come 2-phase putties like Green Stuff or Miliputt, which harden after mixing. Their heat generation isn't too big and they allow to fill gaps easily. My favorite stuff though is not the expensive modeling putty but the stuff from the home depot: stuff like Pattex Repair<sup>sorry, no English site for this</sup> or UHU Repair All Powerkitt harden within an hour, are surprisingly cheap and get a smooth surface.
* Acetone - We all know that you can smooth and glue ABS with Acetone or an acetone-ABS slurry. Tom (Thomas Sanladerer) made a few experiments with it. He discovered that it works for at least *some* types of PLA in the following fashion: apply some acetone to a spot and press the second piece (that also was prepared this way) to it and they might melt themselves together after some time.
+ Effectivity of this depends **very highly** on the exact PLA you got.
+ **Acetone is highly flammable.**
* There's a type of glues commonly called "Kraftkleber" or "Alleskleber" in Germany, for example, UHU Hart or Pattex Kraftkleber<sup>German</sup>. While they often *stick* to PLA, I personally don't like their gluing power and find them often quite messy to work with. Also, they very much fail in loadbearing joints.
* Wood Glue - Yes, Wood Glue. PVA Wood glue as well as its non-water-soluble cousin ("Express") have proven themselves to me as a rather nice surface coating to smooth over print lines as well as a good solution to affix paper and wood to prints. It is less of a solution for plastic-plastic bonds but works OK-ish.
## Glue? Why glue?!
### "Solder"
What better way is there to combine parts than welding or soldering?! Often none. My personal all-time-favorite PLA *glue* is PLA itself, by using it as **PLA solder**. This method also works for most other filament types, but is not advisable for ABS and other plastics that emit fumes without wearing respiratory protection! In any case, you need to work with an exhaust, as you heat your plastic in a not always fully controllable way. If you can, use a soldering station where you can set the temperature of the iron.
* Take the pieces and make sure on both sides is a cavity that can be filled.
* Take a soldering iron and set it to around 200°C.
* Take a length of PLA filament.
* Melt the filament with the soldering iron and use it as solder when combining the two pieces. Make sure that at least some filament gets into the cavities and sticks there - it can help to stick the soldering iron into the goop in there to force it to merge with the infill/walls and press together to hot PLA goop filled pieces against the iron before pulling it away, pressing the pieces together.
* As the PLA cools and hardens, the joint is usually tougher than the actual layer boundaries.
### Pen
Instead of using a soldering iron, one might also use a 3D printing pen<sup>One that eats filament, not one for PCL or some gel!</sup>, but I don't like those personally.
### Inserts!
On a different note, a soldering iron is also a very good solution to make inserts into PLA - heat up the metal insert (like a nut) and press it into an undersized hole, and it will mold the plastic around itself into a perfect fit without any glue.
### Friction Welding
An alternative to using direct heat from a soldering iron is **friction welding**. For this, take a rotary power tool and some filament. Insert the filament into the tool, tighten and cut so that about an inch is reaching out of the claw. Turn it on at medium speed, about 800 to 1200 RPM. Now, once you press the tip of the spinning filament against other PLA it gets hot and melts, creating a welding seam. Joel has a good explanation.
> 33 votes
# Answer
Yes Super Glue is best choice. I personally use it in many PLA projects. I even apply Super Glue layer to ABS prints to avoid layer separation.
It works well with both ABS and PLA, but exercise some caution whilst using Super Glue because it produces very bad tear gas. Use it in a well ventilated area.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I used to work at a small thermoforming plastics enclosure company and we used “weld-on” for basically ANYTHING. Delrin and medical grade plastics not included but, PC, PE, acrylic, PETG, etc. use "weld-on number 3" for more easy bond plastic, "number 4" for more crystalline/harder to bond plastics.
> 3 votes
# Answer
PLA Gloop is dedicated glue for PLA. It contains chloroform, so be careful.
Additionally a PrusaPrinters guide: The Great Guide to Gluing and Assembling 3D Prints
> 1 votes
---
Tags: pla, post-processing, knowledgebase, glue
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thread-13921 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13921 | Ender 3 print bed damage | 2020-06-21T19:43:49.413 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 print bed damage
Just got an Ender 3 a week ago. This is my first 3D printer. On the 5th print the object ended up tearing away the surface of the print bed such that it's no longer usable. Trying to work out if this is something that I did wrong or if this is faulty material or a combination of the two?
To set the print head I watched a few tutorials and carefully followed the instructions checking the height with a piece of paper at each corner and in the center and repeated this until it was set.
I watched a couple more tutorials on how to remove the pieces from the bed. I have been removing the top sheet from the print bed by detaching the paper clips. Using the supplied putty knife I've worked around the edges tapping gently with a rubber mallet to get the putty knife under the piece and loosen it before it pops off.
Afterwards I've used the putty knife to scrape off any other residue to make sure that the surface is smooth.
The first 2 prints were with PLA and then the next 3 with PETG. The damage happened when removing a piece printed with PETG.
My specific questions: Is my approach to removing a print incorrect? If so, what would the correct approach be? Did this cause the damage?
# Answer
> 9 votes
# Your print surface is destroyed
So, you managed to rip off your print surface in the center. Happened to me too. the corners of my scraper were too sharp, cutting the surface. Another time I did pierce the surface with my nozzle. Damage happens. Replacement surfaces for the Ender3 start at about 5 bucks a piece. So get yourself some spares. Clean your bed before applying the new one.
# Removal process
To properly remove a print from the bed, grab your scraper blade and do the following:
* Sharpen the edge only on **one** side.
* Soften the corners, they should be slightly rouned.
Make sure the scraper is kept sharp.
When removing prints, be slow! Push the scraper against the bed with the bevel upwards. Apply careful pressure till the tip moves just a little. Move to a different spot till the blade slips under a little, then work the scraper left and right. You'll hear a sucking sound, that's the print coming free. It gets much easier if you let the bed cool down.
For very tall prints with a relatively small area, you might not need the scraper at all.
PETG has a tendency to stick too much with glass and fuse with PEI. We don't know if the Build-Tak clone Creality uses contains PEI. I suggest to grab gluestick to add a safety layer for printing PETG.
# Answer
> -1 votes
PETG sticks to the bed much easier than PLA or ABS. I've found it harder to release from the bed. Note this reference indicates PETG can cause bed damage.
https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament#:~:text=Other%20Print%20Bed%20Surfaces&text=It's%20not%20uncommon%20for%20PETG,permanently%20bonds%20to%20the%20surface.
If you aren't printing directly on glass, you can use a lower bed temperature to see how it affects the adhesion. Note this reference indicates you don't need a heated bed for PETG on an adhesive surface.
https://all3dp.com/2/petg-print-bed-temperature-all-you-need-to-know/
With a PEI sheet on a glass bed at 50C, I'm getting good adhesion without it being too much.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, maintenance, replacement-parts, bed
--- |
thread-6794 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6794 | Electric shock from ender 3 printer PSU | 2018-08-31T15:23:36.763 | # Question
Title: Electric shock from ender 3 printer PSU
I had recently purchased an ender 3 and after setting it up and plugging it in, I received an electrical shock from the power supply. I live in the UK and so I was provided an EU to UK adapter which I used and I set the voltage to 230 V.
Does anyone know why I was shocked and if there is any solution? Was it because EU to UK isn’t grounded (or am I wrong)?
Would an older 10 amp monitor power cable work better as it’s grounded?
# Answer
You need to take particular care when using plug adaptors - they are not always made to a high standard, and it is possible that the earth connection is not present. If you suspect that the earth connection won't allow a 13 A fuse to blow, it would be good to destroy the adaptor.
A simple cable (without adaptor) will be better, but is unlikely to solve the problem.
You should also check if your mains supply uses an earth-leakage protection circuit (any modern installation must, but your house may predate this legislation).
> 5 votes
# Answer
The "shock" is likely from noise filtering circuitry at the power supply's input. For filtering, every power supply has a small capacitor that connects the live input wire to ground (a so-called "class Y capacitor"). A small amount of current can flow through this capacitor, which can give an annoying, but otherwise harmless shock/tingle. Grounding the power supply would solve the problem (which you should do anyways, because it is dangerous to run electronics that are supposed to be grounded without ground).
> 8 votes
# Answer
An electric shock from a PSU usually means that either the PSU is wired up incorrectly, or the PSU is wired to an ungrounded spot.
Often, Adapters are not grounded or sloppily made. Get yourself a cable with the same ampere rating as the one you want to replace which has a UK plug. If this does not solve the grounding problem, you need to check if the ground wire in the PSU is mounted correctly.
If you can't get a cable rated the same, either use a higher rated one or change the plug on it.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Check the input cable used, I had similar experience when using cable they provided, then I found out that the plug had swapped L and N wires inside, measuring mains voltage between neutral and ground. Swapped cable for known good and the issue was gone.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Had a similar problem with my Ender 5, just a 'static like' shock, not continous. Put a multimeter between printer frame & earth with printer switched ON & it read 20+ volts ac continously! With printer OFF there was about 0.5V ac. I connected an additional earth wire from the psu earth terminal to the printer frame & now no more shocks. I can only assume there not a good earth connection between the psu & printer frame but this doesn't explain where the ac voltage is coming from.
ps I also measured current flow between printer frame & earth when the voltage was 20+ V ac & MM showed zero micro amps?
> 3 votes
# Answer
Yes. The shock from the lack of grounding. Most cheap SMPS (switched mode power supplies) are grounded to the metal casing which, in turn, is connect to the ground terminal where the AC plug is wired.
tl;dr, take the plastic box on the end off an wire in a UK plug that DOES ground the power supply.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Sorry for leaving this so late, I completely forgot about my account until I went through some old emails. In terms of the PSU shock issue, it was fixed through a replacement 13 A cable from an old monitor (so @Green Online and @Sean Houlihane's response worked best I think).
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, electronics, safety
--- |
thread-14490 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14490 | Hotend moves up on HOME command | 2020-09-24T15:24:28.030 | # Question
Title: Hotend moves up on HOME command
My Ender 3D with BlTouch And Marlin 2.0.1 firmware was working flawless for 3 months.
Yesterday, without any hardware or software change, it started acting weird: on Auto-Home command it first makes expected moves (home X and Y), then moves to the center of the bed and then instead of going down to bed, it rises all the way up and then writes a message about End Stop. This of course happens also on "start print", "level bed", etc.
Before the Auto Home command, I can operate the Z axis normally, after it, the printer does not allow movement down.
Do you have any ideas, what might have gone wrong?
# Answer
> 3 votes
The mystery is solved. The BlTouch probe was slightly blocked and reported (supposedly) being in touch with the plate. Just touching it released the probe from the stuck position and all works well now.
Due to direct sunlight, I overlooked the warning blinking red colour of the BlTouch.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis
--- |
thread-14494 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14494 | Waves in my prints | 2020-09-25T14:34:50.803 | # Question
Title: Waves in my prints
Around about 2 weeks ago I upgraded my Ender 3 Pro with a micro Swiss direct drive and all metal hotend. I had some tuning with the PID and e-steps to do, but once that was done, it's been mostly good. However over the past week I've been having problems where my prints appear to have waves in them and after I've levelled the bed and the print gets about ~5 layers in it sounds like the nozzle is grinding against the print and I drop the bed down which I've noticed is something I keep having to listen for and intermittently drop the bed down mid-print.
I thought maybe my bed level was a little high so I went through the bed levelling with my DTI and ran chep's bed level print and watched the print and the filament was being laid down perfectly, adhesion was good and not flat. However I've been trying to print a kitchen roll holder and this is the state of the first few layers:
The layering below is where I've had to manually drop the bed mid print. I was wondering if there's a problem with my Z axis but when I manually move up and down it's fine and I even did a similar check where I measure 100 mm from the top of the bearing and set it move 100 mm on the controller and it was spot on.
My print settings/configuration as follows:
* Ender 3 Pro with magnetic build plate and Micro Swiss direct drive
* Bed temp: 60 °C
* Hotend temp: 210 °C
* Slicer: Cura 4.7.1 ( recently upgraded from 4.5.1 - wondering if that's the problem? )
* Filament type: PLA
* No cooling fan
I'm honestly, very stuck at the moment at what to do for the best! I have a BLTouch to install but I don't want to install it until I understand what the cause/fix for this issue is. I prefer to know pre-upgrade everything's fine so if there are issues from upgrades I can rollback to a working configuration. Any help / advise on diagnosing this issue would be appreciated! If there's any info I've missed, happy to update with it. I have only had my printer for about 6 months so still a bit of newbie.
---
I'm currently running a series of tests to check the temperature combinations and to see what gives me the best results. I'm starting at 210 °C and running through all bed temps 40-70 °C to check for waves with 0.5 mm height square, then running the best results through a height test with the XYZcube to see if the height issue goes away. Does anyone know if there's a way for me to batch these tests using Cura post processing similar to a temperature tower? I want to change the bed temperature per model.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Since you changed the hot end, I'd start at the material diameter setting, followed by the extruder, followed by then check the movements on the z axis.
What you described - a periodic stack up of layers causing distance to the nozzle to decrease can be caused by:
1. Outputting too much material - this is an extruder issue
most likely happens when too much material is fed into the nozzle either because the motor steps per inch is off or material diameter in slicer is smaller than real material
can also happen due to over temperature when material just drips out the nozzle among other issues.
2. Expanding the gap too little per layer - this is a z motor issue. Diagnosis can be simple - tell the motor to move and measure how far off the commanded and actual distances are.
likely happens when axis does not move smoothly - misalignment, junk jammed in places, current too low
can also happen when steps per inch are set wrong.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, z-axis
--- |
thread-14497 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14497 | left-over photopolymer resins | 2020-09-25T21:06:43.617 | # Question
Title: left-over photopolymer resins
Not storing left-over photopolymer resin back with pristine resin in its original shipping can seems to be a common recommendation.
What is the best practice here? Store in a separate bottle and pour this "once around the block" resin first for the next print?
# Answer
## Safety first
I suggest the following handling of resins, some basic stuff first:
* **ALWAYS** wear disposable, one-use gloves when handling resin.
* Respirators are highly advised to be worn.
* Work in a well-ventilated area.
* Tools dedicated to resin handling are for resin only to prevent contamination of other tools.
* Try to minimize the amount added to the vat, so you have as little rests as possible.
## Re-cycling
Now, what to do to get the used resin back to the cycle? Any resin that has been exosed to air and light, such as having been in the vat is best considered to be B-Quality. You can use it to cast greeblies or bits (aka disposal by curing), as one would do with leftover casting (2-component) resin, but that is a waste.
### Step 1: Re-botteling
So, let's look at some better ways: first of all re-botteling the resin. We need to take in mind, that the quality of our resin will further degrade the longer it stays exposed to light (and to a lesser degree: air), so we need to handle the resin in a way that allows us to eliminate exposition to either. For this, it would be best to keep an empty resin bottle at hand and label it as the leftover bottle. To fill this bottle, you should use a Jig to keep the vat in a position that it pours into the bottle. You might want to use a funnel in some cases!
## Step 2: Re-conditioning
Now, we know how to get the stuff back into the (B-quality) bottle. But how to make sure it has the best quality we can? As you notice, many of the jigs involve a funnel. This funnel is used in conjunction with a filter to remove larger particles. The finer the filter, the better. Coffee filters manage to snatch particles down to about 10 to 15 micrometers. It is equivalent to about Grade 4 laboratory filter paper. However, laboratory filter paper of grades 1,2,3 or 602h would allow to catch particles of even lower size, as the mesh gets even smaller, but might clog faster. Tea filters on the other hand have worse filtration ability and should be avoided.
To get the best out of it, use a filtration stack, that starts with a metal mesh filter before going through a rough and a fine filter to get out any chunks and large particles that would clog the fine filter.
It would be best to have this process run in the dark, so mounting the dripping and filtration stack in a box might first sound like overkill, but if you go through a large amount of resin (for example by running several printers) it might be an investment that can save a considerable amount of resin in the long run. However, if you run so many printers, you also might run them continually with the same resin colors and just refill them as needed and only filter if there had been a print failure.
## Step 3: Storage
Store your bottles in a closed cupboard. It would be best if this cupboard is ventilated through a filtration unit and then outside. It should also keep a steady temperature above about 10 °C to prevent clumping. Just follow the storage manual for the normal resin actually.
## Step 4: Re-use
Now comes the tricky part: re-using the resin. While technically the filtered and re-bottled resin should be almost as good as new, it would be best to make sure that we mix it with some virgin resin to make sure we have enough photoinitiator in the resin. For this, I would suggest mixing the recycled resin with between a sixth and half of the fresh stuff. Mix the two well to make sure you get the best possible. Make sure it's the same type and color of the used resin, best even from the same original batch.
Use up the re-cycled resin first, as you should consider it's best before date much shorter than on the virgin bottle.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Considerations for storing resin include using a light-tight bottle, preventing stray ultraviolet radiation from prematurely curing the resin.
You'll also note that users will filter the resin through a fine mesh filter. I've seen some videos in which the user pours through coffee filters to remove as many particulates as possible.
Left-over resin that has been carefully filtered is effectively the same as fresh-from-the-bottle material, from a purely technical view, but you can pick up contaminants that bypass the filter.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: resin
--- |
thread-14509 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14509 | How to move Z-axis to a specificic position (Z-max) after printing? | 2020-09-27T14:33:49.120 | # Question
Title: How to move Z-axis to a specificic position (Z-max) after printing?
I have a Cartesian printer in a cubic format (the bed moves vertically) with Marlin 2.x
I am not finding a way to make it move to Z-max (23 cm) when finishing the printing.
The idea is to lower the bed all the way to the max, to make easy removal of the printed piece.
# Answer
> 1 votes
To move the bed down, you simply instruct the bed to do so after the print.
The best way to do that is add a G-code line to your "end G-code" script you find in your slicer you use.
Just add the line:
```
G1 Z230 F500
```
With this command you instruct the bed to lower to your maximum Z height at speed (feed rate) 500 mm per minute.
---
Tags: marlin, z-axis
--- |
thread-14512 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14512 | Marlin 1.0 works: Marlin 2.0 destroys Z-axis motion | 2020-09-28T02:02:51.437 | # Question
Title: Marlin 1.0 works: Marlin 2.0 destroys Z-axis motion
I have an FLSun 3D Cube, running off an MKS GEN V.1.4 main board. With Marlin 1.0, the Z-axis works great (and has been for three years). When I try to upgrade to Marlin 2.0, moving the Z-axis 10 mm results in extreme motion -50 mm at least, left motor then the right motor, three or four times, very fast. It's loud, it's jarring, and it's at the very least incorrect.
What setting am I missing?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I believe (from reference) the default steps per mm for the FLSUN 3D Cube are:
```
X, Y, Z, E0
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 400, 150 }
```
Default marlin 2.0.x are:
```
X, Y, Z, E0
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }
```
Such a setting would explain the excessive speeds; while the printer only needs 400 steps for advancing a single millimeter, the stepper receives 4000, this implies a tenfold, hence larger displacement and higher speeds.
---
Tags: marlin, flsun-3d-cube, mks
--- |
thread-14520 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14520 | Constrain by surface area in Fusion 360 | 2020-09-29T09:25:19.687 | # Question
Title: Constrain by surface area in Fusion 360
I'm trying to create a sketch that is constrained by surface area.
In my model I have a relatively irregular, flat area that I would like to constrain by area so that it never exceeds a certain number. There are a lot of other constraints for angles, lengths, points, lines and the area of a surface is also always available in the properties. As a rather new person to Fusion 360, it feels logical a constraint by surface area should be possible.
Am I missing something or is there a good reason why this constraint doesn't exist?
# Answer
> 2 votes
After some testing, Fusion does have a category to put in an Area parameter \[edit -\> Parameters -\>\] for Area that takes measurements in acres and *circular mil* but no useful measurements such as square centimeters or square inch. One *circular mil* is defined as a circle with a radius of 1/1000 inch, or 0.0254 mm, for an area of $5.067×10^{−4}\text{ mm}^2$.
However, defining the area of an item isn't (currently) straightforwardly possible: areas are not defineable, and with the obvious lack of possible parameters (square metrics and anything but super tiny or super huge) it doesn't seem to be planned. The best you can do is for bodies that you know the formula for the area in the following fashion:
Here, the left measurement (d2) is 1 mm. The parameter area is 10000 circular mil. Since we know A=d1\*d2, we can go A/d2=d1 for a rectangle.
---
Tags: fusion360
--- |
thread-14521 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14521 | How to fix WoW models in photon workshop | 2020-09-29T13:02:47.180 | # Question
Title: How to fix WoW models in photon workshop
I am using an AnyCubic Photon Resin Printer. I have used the (WoW model viewer to export a miniture that I am hoping to 3D print.
However, when I look at the model in photon workshop, certain parts appear in a different colour, and those parts are printing incorrectly on the final version. For example, if you look at the model below the headpiece feathers printed as a solid block all the way to the base of the model.
Looking at the slicing file, this is what photon workshop exported. I believe the issue may be that, because these are models deisigned for games and not 3d printing, they have only one surface and what I am looking at in Blue is what the photon workshop considers to be the inside of the model. Would ye be able to recommend any steps that I could do to adjust the models to allow them be 3D printed?
https://mega.nz/file/p6I00JZK#qhQplzOTh6w7yZxbGw2vtRRKc-iVDp\_QHOvaWfPtULs
The above link is the object as exported from WoW Model viewer.
# Answer
First of all, Fred's answer is very well but some more items to note, and a different way to fix them using blender.
After opening blender, deleting the box with `entf` and importing the `Wavefront .obj`, I changed to edit mode and started inspecting the colored areas for artifacts and what they were.
## Layered surface only areas
The top feathers are made up from 3 layers of surfaces:
This could be easily fixed by removing the middle layer, then connecting the front and back with new faces. In investigating this I also noted, that many of the faces actually are unconnected, so we fix that first, running a Merge intersecting vertices: `rightclick` -\> `Merge Vertices` -\> `By Distance`. Then, all the lines are blue - this means, that the lines are determined as "sharp edges" so we change to edge select, `A`, then `rightclick` -\> `clear sharp`. Much better. Now, select the vertices in between the front and back, and delete them via `entf`.
After that work-over, the area looks like this:
So, next is re-skinning those edges. Select the remaining edges on the outside in pairs, then `F` to create a face between them, rinse, and repeat. But that does not yet solve the facing issue, because the faces are an odd gradient, not pure color, and as is evident, all the normals (activate them via a menu):
All normals are messed up! so we need to recalculate them. Recalculating them is `A` till everything is selected, then `Ctrl`+`Shift`+`N`, and voila, that area is reworked to a good part:
Now, we are going to export the file as `.stl`: even though Cura can take `.obj`, it has trouble to analyze those for facing properly at times. So let's look if we fixed that area alright... and in Cura now looks like this (OBJ left, STL right):
However, as I will show later, this is the work-intensive way, so don't really bother with those areas, we'll fix them all at once later.
## Single surface only areas
Next, the shoulder details. Those are also one surface only, so we need to give them some heft. I am talking these (grey) ones:
I hid the bulk of the model (the selected, orange parts) first using `H` so it is more visible. Then I selected the upper 'wing', then pressed `E` for extrude. Type in `.01` to define that thickness as how much it should extrude it out. Repeat for the other part. `ALT`+`H` to unhide the parts we had hidden before and Voila:
However, the newly thickened parts did not intersect the body properly yet, so we need to fix that a little, as seen here:
So, select the area we need to fix and `E` for Extrude. Slowly pull till the two parts intersect neatly:
## floating details
Next step: the floating gem in front of the head!
Here fixing gets tricky. We might either just delete the crystal and print it separately and fix it with a little piece of wire later, or we need to create a strut. So, let's do the latter! We select the edges on the backside of the crystal like so...
`rightclick` -\> `Subdivide` and then in the lower left corner set it to 2:
Select the center and `E`xtrude
Keep the area selected and `G` for moving it down into the head, till we are happy with the look:
## superfluous surfaces
Then there are some areas that contain "extra" surfaces, those can be deleted, such as this rectangular one and this feather inside the arm:
## Fixng most surface only areas
Another problematic area is the facemask, which is only a single layer, but wrapped around the face it is a little more tricky to extrude:
This area can be fixed by running a solidify operation, which also makes fixing the feathers individually obsolete! So, how to run solidify?
On the right bar, click the wrench, in the dropdown choose solidify, set the thickness to 0.01 and... voila! Mostly fixed... well, we need to fix a few normals, as you'll see here:
so, let's select everything with `A`, then recalculate normals with `CTRL`+`SHIFT`+`N`, make sure that inside is not checked in the lower right corner, so the modeled surface is on the outside shell... and we are DONE! Export as STL or OBJ and go to test it!
## Check in Cura
Now, to check if we still have reversed surfaces, I imported into Acura and... all the red areas (overhangs) are where they belong: on the underside! So... yep, we are done. Make sure to have the unify intersecting shells option on. You also might want to add some more struts for floating shoulder armor and such... It's a labor intensive work, but in the end you'll have a printable object.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I believe you've identified the primary problem with this model. The single surface features are going to interfere with printing this object.
The image above is the result of loading the model into Autodesk Netfabb. The red segments are reversed normals, but also single surface components. There are others, visible when rotating the model.
One portion is uncertain, above the flap on the back. It could be a component of the flap or a reversed normal of the body's back.
To resolve this problem, it would be necessary to add thickness to those features.
I loaded the model into Meshmixer and identified one feature, the rear flap. It's loaded with reversed normals when viewed from the "outside" or rear of the model.
Using the select tool, it was easy enough to highlight those triangles and proceed to Edit, flip normals. That was followed by Edit, Extrude, to a thickness of -0.02 mm which presented this result:
There are a few "floating" features in the model. One which pops out is over the protective garb over the shoulder. Those would have to be anchored by adding features or moving that specific feature to properly intersect the body.
There are a few others, zero thickness portions that resemble solar panels. I suspect they are artifacts rather than intentional model features. Those can be removed in Meshmixer using a similar method, Select, Edit, Delete
The hanging hook is a collection of intersecting faces and present a challenge. It's not my model, but I'd be inclined to completely remove that feature, or remove most of it and add a simple cylinder to attach it to the model.
There are programs other than Meshmixer which will allow one to perform such manual repairs/modifications, but my skill set does not include presenting the answer for those packages.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, software, resin
--- |
thread-470 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/470 | Bed leveling method? | 2016-02-03T19:52:30.133 | # Question
Title: Bed leveling method?
Is there a good method or tool to level the bed of 3D printers? I find myself making small adjustments a lot and it's mostly just trial-and-error. A normal bubble level is of limited help and trying to figure out if the head is the thickness of a sheet of paper from the bed in all corners is beyond the capability of my vision.
# Answer
There are several ways.
1) Simplest is the business card/paper method.
This video shows how simple it is: Leveling the platform
You should feel the same amount of resistance between the hotend and the bed on all sides. On some 3D printers there are 3 screws holding the bed (eg. Solidoodle) and on others there are 4 screws on each edge (e.g. Prusa i3). On some 3D printers you need to rotate a screw with a screwdriver to adjust it (e.g. Solidoodle 3) and on some you have a nut (mostly wing nut) (e.g. Solidoodle 4).
I find most people move the extruder around when adjusting the bed by controlling the motors. I think the quicker way is stopping the motors (in Repetier Host it's the "Stop Motor" button) and moving the gantry by hand.
Tutorial: 3D printing guides - Bed leveling
2) Second one is just more advanced version of the above. You use a dial indicator/ micrometer attached to your extruder and make sure the number on the dial is as close as possible on all edges.
Level the Print Bed on a RepRap / RepStrap 3D Printer with a Mitutoyo Dial Test Indicator
Micrometer op 3D printer
There are also digital versions of this tool.
You might need to print or make some other way a piece to be able to attach a micrometer to the extruder (there might be one for your 3D printer on Thingiverse already).
Now, remember I mentioned that you adjust the height of the edges of the print bed with a screw/nut? Well, since there is a lot of vibration during print those tend to get out of place and that might explain why you end up readjusting it over and over again. What I have found to solve this is to use a single drop of Loctite (cyanocrylate glue) in the middle of the nut/screw. A single drop will secure it in place but also not make it impossible to unscrew in the future.
3) Setting up auto-bed leveling on your 3D printer if it's modable enough: 3D printing guides: Setting up auto bed tramming leveling tilt compensation!.
Finally, if you can't get the bed leveled no matter what, it might be uneven. That's usually caused by warping. Both PCB beds and aluminum beds can get warped. With the former just sandwich a glass bed on top of it and it should be fine. Warped aluminum is pretty hard to flatten. In this extreme situation you might need to get a new aluminum sheet cut and drilled, preferably a mm thicker one which is less likely to warp under the same conditions. I think this happens when you either set the bed temp too high and/or the thickness of the aluminum bed is too small (bad or cheap 3D printer design).
> 12 votes
# Answer
The easiest way I know of (unless your printer has a Z-probe and automatic leveling), is to bring the nozzle(s) down fairly close to the bed (maybe 1/4" or so), and then move it around while watching for anyplace that doesn't look even. Adjust the bed until it seems even. You can just eyeball it, or use a ruler or object to measure.
Then bring the nozzle down closer, and repeat. Each time you move it closer, you'll be able to eyeball more accurately.
Once you're quite close, pull out a 3x5 card, or business card, or similar, and move the nozzle up or down until the card just fits between the nozzle and the bed (with no great pressure, but no space either). Again, move the head all around the bed, and do any remaining (tiny) adjustments so it's the same everywhere.
Of course if the bed is at all warped this will be much harder, or even impossible. So before starting, put a good-quality straightedge along it to make sure it's actually flat.
> 5 votes
# Answer
After the first leveling, I usually don't need to touch it for long time, even if my bed structure is of wood and could warp in time.
I guess you need to adjust it because you turn on the heating and in the meanwhile do the leveling. Do it when the bed is hot and stable for 5 minutes and you'll see it will stay correct between prints.
Keep in mind that, in my case, the temperature changes the position of the extruder as well: do the leveling when everything is hot, even if without filament inserted.
Edit: if you print both ABS and PLA, a single leveling done at an intermediate temperature will be enough.
Also, be sure that the screws don't move due to vibrations. I used a foam washer to keep them in position. It warps during the first hours of application and then provides good friction.
> 3 votes
# Answer
If you don't have an auto-leveling build plate or a depth gauge attachment for your X-Axis, you're pretty much stuck with the "piece of paper" method. To perform this easier, try shifting the paper as you adjust the bed. As soon as the paper becomes difficult to move (the nozzle is touching now), back off the build plate by about a quarter turn.
Please also keep in mind how your printer is constructed. If your build plate arms are plastic, they are easily susceptible to warping if you have a heated build plate. Even if the warping isn't permanent, the build plate can technically shift during a print as the arms get hotter. Some people go as far as replacing these arms with aluminum versions.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I printed a faceplate for a Reprap X400 to use an electronic drop gage to level the bed:
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-preparation
--- |
thread-14519 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14519 | Why would my extruder remove the filament all the way out after prints? [Ender 3 v2] | 2020-09-29T06:24:13.407 | # Question
Title: Why would my extruder remove the filament all the way out after prints? [Ender 3 v2]
### Background
I bought an Ender 3 v2 printer, everything has been working fine, been experimenting with harder and higher temperature filaments like different variations of PLA and PETG.
Original extruder would bite the filament too hard sometimes and snap it, if it's loose it would grind it, filling its teeth with material that needs to be cleaned out.
I bought a BMG clone (TriangleLab) extruder and set it up according to BondTech instructions but without having to invert the stepper motor rotation and set E-Steps to 419, which seems to be printing fine.
It's still using the stock hotend but with 0.6 mm hardened steel nozzle. I do have BLTouch add-on and I'm using firmware compiled from tip of bugfix-2.0.x branch of Marlin with stock Creality v4.2.2 board. Firmware Configuration modifications were done to accommodate BLTouch alone.
### Problem
I have to manually heat the nozzle and manually extrude about 200-250 mm from LCD menu, otherwise once print starts, no material will come out.
I checked the bowden tube with a torchlight since it's translucent using a black filament to print and noticed that after machine is stopped (from menu or after print ends), extruder will pull the filament almost all the way out while pulling up Z axis to clear some height, requiring me to manually extrude before next print so tube won't be empty. Previously with stock extruder I didn't have to do anything, the initial print on left hand side of bed or skirt print would take care of putting it back in location.
I've been googling and looking at Cura and Firmware (`configuration.h`) for a while now but I couldn't figure out why this is happening.
This is my End code in Cura. I do suspect 3rd line has something to do with it but I don't understand what that means.
```
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
M300 S440 P200
M300 S660 P250
M300 S880 P300
```
Retraction settings are stock settings in Cura, haven't touched them.
The `Configuration.h` file is found here, the `Configuration_adv.h` file is found here.
Update: This happened again with Benchy print but about 4 cm unlike previously, half of the skirt print failed but actual print was OK. Below is last part of print Gcode. End code isn't different from Cura settings printer end code.
```
G1 X105.151 Y113.199 E313.92164
G0 F7200 X105.155 Y112.539
;TIME_ELAPSED:3369.503317
G1 F3000 E307.42164
M140 S0
M107
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning
G1 X0 Y220 ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
M300 S440 P200
M300 S660 P250
M300 S880 P300
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
M104 S0
;End of Gcode
;SETTING_3 {"extruder_quality": ["[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Ideagen Nozzl
;SETTING_3 e-0.6 #3\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = q
;SETTING_3 uality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nposition = 0\\nsetting_ver
;SETTING_3 sion = 15\\nintent_category = default\\n\\n[values]\\nfill_outline_ga
;SETTING_3 ps = True\\ninfill_overlap = 10\\ninfill_sparse_density = 40\\ninitia
;SETTING_3 l_layer_line_width_factor = 120\\nironing_only_highest_layer = True\\
;SETTING_3 nmaterial_flow = 92.5\\nmaterial_print_temperature = 210\\nretraction
;SETTING_3 _count_max = 10\\nretraction_retract_speed = 50\\nspeed_print = 60\\n
;SETTING_3 speed_travel = 120.0\\nsupport_infill_rate = 5\\ntop_bottom_thickness
;SETTING_3 = 1.05\\ntop_thickness = 1.05\\nwall_thickness = 1.2\\nzig_zaggify_i
;SETTING_3 nfill = True\\n\\n"], "global_quality": "[general]\\nversion = 4\\nna
;SETTING_3 me = Ideagen Nozzle-0.6 #3\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[me
;SETTING_3 tadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nsetting_
;SETTING_3 version = 15\\n\\n[values]\\nlayer_height = 0.35\\nlayer_height_0 = 0
;SETTING_3 .4\\nretraction_combing = infill\\n\\n"}
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
As mentioned in the comments, extrusion stopped working altogether at some point halfway through a Benchy print. Once I had opened compressing lever of BMG clone extruder, I observed that gears were loose, after disassembling the extruder noticed that both extruder side and stepper motor side gears were also loosened at hex head screw keys which were keeping them in place. I ordered a thread locker to address that at another time, seems like vibrations due to constant retractions loosened them.
After tightening and reassembling, issue is not bad to the point prints would fail to start, however filament is not primed enough, so some of the skirt print will be blank.
I also added this with 608Z bearings for supporting the smooth movement of spool. Turns out 608 bearings are widely available almost everywhere, roller skates and skateboards use them, so there is a good chance your local sports shop will have it, too.
I installed Octoprint on my laptop to work around this issue as below:
```
G92 E0 ; Set Extruder position to 0
G1 E100 F200 ; Extrude 100 mm slowly. This is to make sure hotend is not empty and material flow is consistent, i.e. adjust temperature if necessary.
```
Only then I start my prints.
I learnt that using `E<integer>` to extrude and `E-<integer>` retract, I can replace filament too, by using big enough numbers like 350 mm, so I don't have to fiddle with compression lever or its adjustments anymore.
**Update:** I found more mechanical problems. This issue is not software related. Please see useful advice in comments regarding retraction/priming as an improvement if not solution to this problem.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, extruder, bowden, retraction
--- |
thread-14501 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14501 | Is there any 3D-printing software that supports Raspberry Pi? | 2020-09-27T05:53:43.027 | # Question
Title: Is there any 3D-printing software that supports Raspberry Pi?
My only functional computer at the moment is a raspberry pi, and I was wondering if there was any software that supported it. My printer is a Newmatter mod-t, but I might be able to modify other software to support it
# Answer
> 3 votes
The answer is "yes", but it depends on what hardware you have, what operating system you are using, and what software you want (or need) to use.
I have a Raspberry Pi 4 with 4GB of memory, and I am running a 32-bit version of Raspberry Pi OS. I have been able to install the following software from the Raspberry Pi OS repositories, but not everything is working "out of the box":
* Blender 2.79 (starts, but not tested)
* Cura 3.3.1 (crashes on startup)
* FreeCAD 0.18 (crashes when opening a new document)
* PrintRun (PronterFace) 1.6.0 (working)
* PrusaSlicer (Slic3r PE) 1.39.2 (working)
* Repetier-Host 0.85 (crashes on startup)
* Slic3r 1.3.0 (working)
I have been able to download the 3DBenchy from Thingiverse, slice it using Slic3r, and PrintRun (PronterFace) is currently printing it on my Tronxy X1.
I will update this answer if I can get the other stuff working, since I would quite like to use a Raspberry Pi for 3D design and printing. If I can get FreeCAD working, I shall be happy, and OpenSCAD would be a welcome bonus, but I don't think that it has been ported.
# Answer
> 3 votes
This is a case of Atwood's Law.
Remember that TinkerCAD runs entirely in your web browser. If your Raspberri Pi can browse the web, you can do basic 3D modeling.
Similarly, there is an online slicer available at cnc-apps.com — probably others, too. If you can browse the web, you can slice an STL to create gcode suitable for most printers. It's free to use (with limits) for guests. However, I haven't used it personally so I can't speak to the quality at this time. (If anyone wants to try this out, I'd love to hear your results).
The final step is getting the printer to run the generated g-code, and here we have our old friend OctoPrint. I'm currently running this on a Raspberry Pi of my own. However, I'd be hesitant to give the Pi over to running the printer if it's your only computer. In most cases I would instead copy the gcode file to an sd card, but as the particular printer here it seems to support wifi it's likely you can upload the gcode directly.
---
Tags: software, raspberry-pi
--- |
thread-14536 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14536 | Short-circuited heatbed | 2020-10-03T15:43:04.700 | # Question
Title: Short-circuited heatbed
After some months of good quality prints, since yesterday my heatbed does not heat anymore.
I've a BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos with this heatbed, controlled by this mechanical relay and powered by this power source. I know that a mechanical relay is not the best choice for a 3D printer, but I only had one of those when I've built the bed and setting *bang bang control* for the plate gave me some satisfactory prints.
Since if I connect directly the heatbed to the power source, the latter stops working (I think because of its shortage protection), I'm almost sure that in some way I've managed to fry my heatbed. Before buying a new one, though, I'd like to understand how I've broken the current heatbed without doing anything but printing, to avoid similar situations in the future.
I'm afraid I've forgotten some component whose functionality is to protect the heatbed (maybe a diode or something similar, I'm sorry but I have never studied electronics).
I've attached a very simple wiring diagram showing the current configuration.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I see four points of error:
* The heatbed could be faulty.
* The lines could be faulty.
* The trigger signal could be faulty.
* The power supply could be faulty.
So, how to check what it might be? We need to measure, but we need to measure in a setup of 12/24 V circuits while they are live. While not necessarily considered "dangerous", take extra precautions! Remove the parts you will need to access from the machine, ground the power supply, and use your utmost care! Make sure the heatbed is not connected to the Power supply, so we can measure it in the safest way.
# Ruling out the Heatbed
The first step can be done without power: the resistance of the heatbed should be non-0, non-open line. It's best to measure directly at the input pins to the bed. If it shows close to 0 (some milli-Ohms), open line (OL), or no continuity (NC), it has a short or is burned out and needs to be replaced.
# Ruling out the Power Supply
Once we have reached a safe setup, take a voltmeter and measure the voltage (potential difference) on the pins you reserve for the heatbed. If it is 12 V with some tolerance, it's good, otherwise you might need to get a new power supply or have a professional fix yours.
# Ruling out the trigger signal
Next, move your measuring to the output of the board. Now order your board to heat up the bed. Make no illusions, we **will** trigger TRP, as the bed is disconnected. This will need us to reset the board between tests. You should see a 5 V trigger signal. If not, your board or firmware might be faulty and require different investigations.
# Ruing out the lines and switch
Next step is to swap to Resistance mode on the multimeter and measure the resistance of the switch, best with the whole power line. Under "heating", the setup should show a close to 0 Ohm resistance, if not it should show an infinite or open line.
# What now?!
If it is neither of the 4, reassemble on the test stand, reconnect the bed to the power supply and investigate all connections between the elements we just checked. Now order a heating procedure - as all components should be ok, it has to be one of the interfaces between the parts.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Assuming you are using the correct voltage hot bed, what you have set up should be just fine.
On the other hand, if it’s a 12 volt bed with a 24 volt power supply, you could have easily burned it out.
If the voltages were matched properly, you may have just gotten unlucky.
---
Tags: heated-bed, electronics, bq-hephestos
--- |
thread-14534 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14534 | Issue with rim of first 5-8 layers of my Prints | 2020-10-02T18:53:36.137 | # Question
Title: Issue with rim of first 5-8 layers of my Prints
I have this issue with my 3D prints on my Ender 3 printer bed. The first 5-8 layers are wider than the rest (exaggerated illustration shown in the 3D rendering below), I think this is because the 3D nozzle is so close to the bed during the first few layers of the print, thus creating a rim/bulge out at the bottom. However, I can't lower the bed any further, else the model will not stick to the bed like it is supposed to.
How do I fix this issue and still allow the nozzle to stay close enough to the bed to make the model stick properly?
Additional information:
* I am using a glass bed
* printing with PLA,
+ that I print at around 185-200 °C
+ and for the bed, I heat it at about 50C °C.
**I Tried:**
1. I have tried lowering the bed. Outcome: the print doesn't stick to the bed as it should and just falls off.
2. Lowering the heat of the bed. Outcome: The same thing.
3. Increasing the initial layer height. Outcome: The same plus the additional layers on top all go out of wack.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The bed and filament temperatures you are using are the usual ones for PLA, so it probably is not the case that the filament is flowing too much and oozing out of place (\*).
So most likely the problem is with the slicer. Things to look for:
* Most slicers print the first layer in a slightly different way than all other layers (to improve adherence to the bed) and some parameters may be off:
+ Easiest check: repeat the print with a different slicer; if it goes better it was a slicer setting that needs finetuning.
+ More involved check:
- For Cura make sure "initial layer height", "initial layer line width", "initial layer horizontal expansion" and "initial layer flow" have the default values.
- For Prusa Slicer reset "first layer height", "first layer extrusion width" and "elephant foot compensation" to their default values.
* Additionally, most slicers will disable the fan for the first few layers. Change the setting so that the fan is only disabled for the first layer.
(\*) That is of course unless you got a bad batch of filament. Less probable than the slicer settings being off, but check with a completely different PLA filament to verify.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, adhesion, bed
--- |
thread-14544 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14544 | Top-Down SLA Printer Bulging Issue | 2020-10-06T02:46:57.940 | # Question
Title: Top-Down SLA Printer Bulging Issue
I have designed and built a top-down SLA 3D printer that uses a 405 nm 500 mW laser along with some galvanometers. I filled the vat with glycerin and then topped it off with about 2.5 cm of resin. I designed a wiper system for creating an even layer of resin quickly even on layers with large surface area. In my tests I have been dunking the build plate into the resin and then raising it to wipe the excess off to get a quick even layer (I raise it slightly above the level of the resin to be safe).
The problem I am having is that after the wiper wipes and the laser cures the layer, after a couple of layers the wiper will begin physically hitting the top of the part. The part continues to get higher and higher than the wiper level, which doesn't make sense because the wiper wipes all the excess off, and I am printing above the level of the resin so no extra resin is flowing onto the layer from the sides. This eventually stalls the wiper motor and the print fails.
I have a theory that the resin's surface tension might be pulling the layer of resin to the edges of the layer, causing the layer of resin to "bulge" up a little which would explain why the layer is curing higher than the wiper level. If this is the case does anyone know of any remedies to this? Do I have to heat the resin to lower its surface tension maybe?
Have any of you guys ever had this issue? Does anyone have any other theories? I am really stumped here and can't wait to start printing some cool models but I cannot continue experimentation until this is solved.
Thanks so much in advance for any help!
(I should mention I am using Anycubic Plant-Based Eco UV Resin in translucent green)
# Answer
> 1 votes
Let's look at the problem mathematically:
* The bed has a 0 that puts the surface some distance $d\_0$ above the surface of the resin, the wiper does put the first layer on that height.
* after curing, the printer moves down distance $d\_d$ to coat the top surface.
* afterwards, the bed lowers back up to $d\_0+d\_l$ \- a thickness of 1 layer lower, or in other terms, it moves $-(d\_d-d\_l)$
Now, how is it implemented in your G-code? check that!
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, resin, sla, dlp
--- |
thread-14531 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14531 | Can PLA carry sound coming from a loud speaker? | 2020-10-01T21:49:18.667 | # Question
Title: Can PLA carry sound coming from a loud speaker?
My goal is to have a speaker inside a PLA casing to produce a nice hearable sound from a submersible item.
I intended to produce that sound from a Piezo buzzer stuck on a membrane held tight in hollow place between two pieces, but the result is unsatisfactory as the sound gets muffled to inaudible levels.
Is there any known 3D printable methods to permit for a sound to be heard from PLA?
# Answer
In space, no one can hear you scream. That's because there's no air to be vibrated, which is part of the definition of sound.
In the case of your model, the described diaphragm will generate sound because it is surrounded by air. The vibrations in the air will transfer (and reflect) from the PLA shell you've created.
In order to hear as much sound as possible, you have to have as thin a shell as possible and only one of them. It would be more effective if you could incorporate the membrane into the shell, which eliminates the sound damping effect of the plastic sphere.
Barring that option, one layer (vase mode, but probably not) would present the created sound with a much less massive amount of plastic to vibrate.
Additionally, PLA is not known for being water tight. One can apply epoxy or other sealants to make it so, but that will add mass to the overall equation.
> 3 votes
# Answer
You are asking about acoustics (see Sound, Acoustics). The main parameters you are dealing with can be seen in the simple harmonic model: flexibility (spring) and mass. Thinner walls give you more spring and less mass. Different filament materials will also change these parameters. One thing to consider is PLA becomes more brittle as it absorbs moisture. Someone who designs acoustical musical instruments could probably help you.
However, note that the ideal acoustics is different for a person speaking versus music, such as orchestra or band. Thus, application is essential. For example, if you are building earphones, you want to dampen external sound.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I did a lot of experimentation in this a couple years ago. The limitation on the sound is the amount of energy you can apply to the plastic, and the ability of the plastic to respond (move to) that energy. I ended up using epoxy to fasten a transducer directly to the plastic wall, and while the sound quality was not great (I could not have used it for speech or music) it was adequate to make the alarm sound, 50% PWM @ 3.3V and I controlled the frequency using the Arduino 'tone' library to control the frequency. I printed that side solid (no infill) and a bit thinner than the other sides (2mm instead of 4mm), printed it separately and then used epoxy to glue in (and its attached transducer) to the cube I was using for the rest of the circuitry.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-material
--- |
thread-3070 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3070 | How can I convert .STL file to .OFF to use in CGAL? | 2016-11-21T16:32:34.780 | # Question
Title: How can I convert .STL file to .OFF to use in CGAL?
I want to skeletize the surface mesh. For that I need to export .STL from Solidworks and then convert that into .OFF file to be able to use it in CGAL library for skeletonzation. How can I do this?
# Answer
If you can handle a single intermediate step, you may find that OpenSCAD will perform as required. As a test, I created a cube 10 x 20 x 5 within OpenSCAD. I kept the model simple, hoping the code generated would be short.
The results:
```
OFF
```
8 12 0
0 0 5
10 0 5
10 20 5
0 20 0
0 0 0
10 0 0
10 20 0
0 20 5
3 4 5 1
3 0 4 1
3 0 7 4
3 4 7 3
3 0 1 2
3 7 0 2
3 3 6 4
3 4 6 5
3 5 6 2
3 1 5 2
3 7 2 3
3 3 2 6
In your example, it would be necessary to use the import\_stl feature of OpenSCAD, then render the model. Once rendered, use File, Export, Export as OFF to create the file you need.
I cannot provide certainty of the exported code, however, as I am not familiar with the format you seek.
Openscad
> 1 votes
# Answer
I would suggest using Meshlab. You can convert from `.stl` to `.off` and you can try other operations for quick results too, instead of diving to code for mesh manipulation.
> 1 votes
# Answer
There is the Free online tool to convert STL to OFF within second: https://cadcook.com/stl-off/
I used it for stl conversations..
> 1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models
--- |
thread-14389 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14389 | How to force Cura to walk through a layer in one run? | 2020-09-06T17:46:24.127 | # Question
Title: How to force Cura to walk through a layer in one run?
I already tried a lot settings in Cura and try to search for a solution but without success. Maybe someone got this issue and solved it.
I want to prevent Cura from printing such gaps at the wings to make it in one run. With ironing one run would (hopefully) bring better results. See the animation for what I mean.
Why want to do this? I hope to prevent thes ironing issues shown in the following pic.
# Answer
I am not aware of a general solution.
For your specific issue, try rotating the object 90 degrees around the z-axis.
> 2 votes
# Answer
This answer hints to changing the print orientation to prevent the slicer to create "pockets" that are filled later. But, since we cannot see the rest of the design, or for more complex designs, it is possible that you cannot change the orientation. Maybe concentric pattern will help you, but that doesn't always works or looks fine.
However, there is a way to solve this (but it requires a different slicer then Cura) using the upcoming release of PrusaSlicer as discussed during Prusa Live #3, live stream @ June, 17 2020 under "Ironing & Monotone infill". The monotone infill will fill in the "pockets" in the same direction to prevent defects caused by build-up of filament at the wrong side. This feature may be very useful for better filling in layers.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-14551 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14551 | Custom Infill Pattern Based on Self-Generated Geometry | 2020-10-07T23:30:03.523 | # Question
Title: Custom Infill Pattern Based on Self-Generated Geometry
I am trying to look for my options for generating a custom infill pattern which complies to a geometry that I want to repeat. I can get the geometrical coordinates too in order to make the final shape. Has anyone done so previously?
# Answer
From my experience, this is hard, particularly because slicers are not made to handle it well. They generally do their infill generation efficiently in terms of 2D geometry, built as a function of the layer height and the outline(s) in the layer. Of course you can actually make the infill pattern part of your model geometry, or use a separate model intersected with the interior of your model as the infill, but having the infill structure be 3D geometry means that the slicer will be quantizing it to layers, and will have a hard time generating exactly-one-line-thickness extrusions that print will for the infill cross sections.
If you do want to do this anyway, OpenSCAD provides the tools to do the necessary intersection of your generated geometry pattern with the model interior.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: infill
--- |
thread-14557 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14557 | Beginner FreeCAD question on axes when sketching | 2020-10-09T14:46:41.623 | # Question
Title: Beginner FreeCAD question on axes when sketching
I am a raw beginner at FreeCAD and 3D draughting. Watched some tutorials and designed 2-3 simple items. Aiming to use it for 3D printing.
My question relates to 2D sketching. As I understand the workflow, one draws 2D items that one can then extrude, cut etc. So one picks the drawing axes (eg X and Y), and the sketch is then at Z axis zero. After extruding, one can place another sketch on a face for further extruding etc.
But the sketch is always at relative Z/3<sup>rd</sup> axis zero.
Consider a fairly large block extruded 10 mm thick. Say I want (example only, never mind why) to cut a 20 mm disk from the interior, 3 mm deep, 5 mm from the bottom surface therefore 2 mm from the top.
If I place a sketch on the top surface, make a 20 mm circle and use that to cut a hole, the cut will always start at the top surface - but I want it to start 2 mm down. I.e. it seems to me I need to be able to offset the sketch from local Z/3<sup>rd</sup> axis zero, in this case to -2 mm.
Can one do that, or have I missed the point somewhere?
# Answer
This answer assumes you're working in the Part Design workbench.
So you want to adjust the starting height of a pad or pocket. There are two ways I can think of to do this easily.
1. Adjust the Z attachment value of the sketch to lower the sketch below the surface.
2. Use the "two dimensions" option in the pad/pocket operation and set the second value negative.
By the way, it is highly suggested not to attach a sketch to a surface. The current development version (0.19) and previous versions have an issue ("topographical naming") where editing a previous feature can change the internal name of a face causing the attachment to break. There is a solution under development but it doesn't loom like it will get in earlier than 0.20. You should instead simply adjust the Z attachment value to match the face you want.
Also, there is a very active (and very helpful) forum here. I'd suggest asking further FreeCAD questions there.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: freecad, sketchup
--- |
thread-14553 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14553 | Ender 3 V2 USB connection powers screen, but isn't detected by PC or Pi | 2020-10-08T18:26:49.143 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 V2 USB connection powers screen, but isn't detected by PC or Pi
I am trying to add an Octopi to my Ender 3 V2 but the Pi cannot detect the printer at all. So I try to connect to Windows and same result. The display turns on and is functional, but when checking device manager there is nothing to be found. I am using the 2.0.7 Marlin firmware on the machine and have tried about 6 different USB cables/other ports.
# Answer
> 2 votes
After trying about 10 USB cables I finally found one that would work with the Ender and Pi. Specifically, it was my Logitech MX Ergo USB cable.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, octoprint, usb
--- |
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