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thread-13504 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13504 | Raised lips on sharp vertical corners | 2020-04-23T20:51:28.257 | # Question
Title: Raised lips on sharp vertical corners
I have an Ender 3 with a lot of mods. Of note, a cheap direct drive kit, linear rails for the Y axis, an upgraded "silent" mainboard and TH3D's firmware. But this issue goes back a long ways, yet I've not seen any really good examples of this particular issue in various faqs.
All of my vertical edges, especially when they are 90°, have raised lips in a very precise, repeated fashion. It's small, maybe a quarter millimeter in diameter, so it rarely is a problem, but occasionally it messes with the dimensionality of a print with tight tolerances.
I had suspected the problem might have been related to using acceleration/jerk settings, but I disabled them for the print below and got a perfect example case.
Other things I've tried:
* calibrating E-steps (I've done this many, many times, only to find the E-step number changes with speed and temperature anyway).
* Deliberately underextruding. This actually doesn't help.
* Slowing prints way, way down. Also doesn't seem to have an impact, at least down to 20mm/s.
* changing slicers. This problem happens with Cura, Simplify3d and PrusaSlicer.
* replacing my nozzle with a fresh one, which should have cleared up any existing clogs or leakages from a worn nozzle.
After a lot of searching on the subject, I found this bug report for Marlin, the first case of over-extruded corners I've found that look at all like mine. What I find especially interesting is that changes to Marlin around version 1.1.8 have introduced the issue for some people who previously didn't have the problem. This seems to suggest it's not necessarily a hardware issue, but a bug in software. I'm considering testing out a downgrade to a 3-year-old version just to see if that alone makes a difference.
# Answer
> 4 votes
If the amount of time spent by the head near the corner is significantly longer than what's spent per unit time elsewhere, you will get more extrusion at the corners and thus this effect. High print speed combined with low acceleration/jerk limits give you this effect.
Using a lower print speed should make it go away because it takes very little time to accelerate up to (or decelerate down from) a low nominal print speed from (to) the max cornering speed allowed by acceleration/jerk settings.
Using (much!) higher acceleration/jerk limits can also make it go away, but can cause other print quality problems and even layer shifts.
The Right Fix for this problem is upgrading your firmware to a version of Marlin with the Linear Advance feature and calibrating it. Then the printer automatically compensates for this issue by varying the pressure at the nozzle to get consistent extrusion rate regardless of changes in speed. I've had very good luck with this on my Ender 3, with a calibration constant K=0.6 for PLA and significantly larger ones for flexible filaments (the constant is essentially the spring constant of the filament for the length of filament path between the extruder gear and the nozzle).
If you don't want to replace the firmware, though, increasing acceleration and jerk limits and lowering speed should work ok. Your machine should be able to handle 3000 mm²/s acceleration on X and Y axis, with 10 mm/s "jerk" (the units of jerk are weird because it's not actually jerk; see my question on the topic).
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Tags: creality-ender-3, dimensional-accuracy
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thread-13503 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13503 | Can you help me improve my Renkforce RF1000 print quality? | 2020-04-23T16:14:40.817 | # Question
Title: Can you help me improve my Renkforce RF1000 print quality?
I've got a Renkforce RF1000 which should be a good 3D printer. I got it second-hand for my birthday one year ago. I've got no way of contacting the old owner.
I spend a good amount of hours fine-tuning the slicer settings last year but at best got mediocre prints. Between September and a week ago I lived somewhere else and didn't touch my printer.
Now here's what I don't know:
* I don't know what parts are replaced
* I don't know what my nozzle size is
* I don't know if the limit switches are calibrated correctly
+ Though I think they are. This doesn't seem to be a problem. I did re-calibrate the Z-axis
Here are some important details:
* I use 3 mm Renkforce PLA filament which I print at 190 °C on a bed heated at 60 °C. The PLA is over one year old now.
* There's a fan on the motor on top that isn't connected to anything.
Here are some of the problems I've got:
* I've had multiple prints failing due to the extruder not working properly. The motor keeps on spinning but the "feed knurl" remains stationary
* I can't seem to get the right extraction settings
* I can't seem to get my prints to consistently stick. It tends to work when I heat the bed to 60 °C and use glue and get lucky.
Feel free to give any thoughts you've got. These are the most important questions I've got:
1. Should I replace the nozzle with this one so that I know what nozzle I've got and so I'm sure this isn't a problem?
2. Should I replace the filament with new 1.75 mm PLA? If so, why?
3. How do I fix the extruder?
* I tried getting the "feed knurl" off but can't seem to do this easily. I've got some super glue I could try to put in there but something's telling me this might be a very bad idea...
4. Is the unconnected fan important and if so: what do I do with it? There's no remaining wire to connect it to.
5. How tight should the 4 screws that hold the filament between the extruder and the rolling disk be?
For now, these are all hardware problems. I can post my Slic3r settings too but I believe the hardware should be fixed before going into slicer settings.
Here are some pictures showing the problems:
This is the extruder. The feeding mechanism can be seen in front. It shows the "feed knurl" of which the inside spins while the outside remains stationary (question 3). Next to it are 4 screws which determine how tight the filament is held against the extruder (question 5). On the back it shows a black fan, this got placed by the previous owner but isn't connected (question 4).
This image shows the unconnected fan (question 4) to the right. Behind it is the motor that's connected to the extruder. The motor works but the extruder doesn't spin with it. The extruder has a little black hole on top.
This shows the extruder from the front. The inner layer spins, the outer layer doesn't (question 3)
These are some of the prints when the extruder was still working.
Nozzle and print bed (question 1)
# Answer
> Should I replace the nozzle with this one so that I know what nozzle I've got and so I'm sure this isn't a problem?
It appears the default nozzle size is 0.3 mm. The linked nozzle is a direct replacement.
> How do I fix the extruder?
The "feed knurl", usually called the extruder gear is attached to the stepper shaft using a fine grub screw ("threaded pin" is a bad choice of words...). The black hole you mention is the hole of the screw (it should be in there, usually an allen key or flat screwdriver should be used). Position it so that the screw is tightened against the flat spot on the stepper shaft.
> Should I replace the filament with new 1.75 mm PLA? If so, why?
If the PLA has been open for a year and not stored properly it could have taken up moisture, I would buy a new spool (3.0 mm) of filament, not 1.75 mm.
> Is the unconnected fan important and if so: what do I do with it? There's no remaining wire to connect it to.
The fan doesn't look as if this is a default fan, this fan is mounted onto cooling fins probably put there by the previous owner to cool the extruder stepper. Maybe the printer has been enclosed and used to print ABS at elevated temperatures. For Printing PLA cooling the extruder stepper would not be necessary as it doesn't require an elevated print temperature.
> How tight should the 4 screws that hold the filament between the extruder and the rolling disk be?
The 4 screws need to be tight enough for the extruder gear to leave indentations on the filament, but not too deep.
> 2 votes
# Answer
> 1. Should I replace the nozzle with this one so that I know what nozzle I've got and so I'm sure this isn't a problem?
That is not really necessary. The exact nozzle size does not really matter.
> Should I replace the filament with new 1.75 mm PLA? If so, why?
No, there's no reason to do that. Going from 3 mm to 1.75 mm filament usually requires replacing the entire extruder.
> How do I fix the extruder?
Tighten the grub screw (the "black hole") with a hex key.
> Is the unconnected fan important and if so: what do I do with it? There's no remaining wire to connect it to.
The fan appears to be cooling the stepper motor. This shouldn't really be necessary, the stepper should be fine without any additional cooling. People tend to "upgrade" their printers by adding unnecessary bells and whistles so it is possible the original owner added this fan just because they wanted to, and not because it is necessary.
> How tight should the 4 screws that hold the filament between the extruder and the rolling disk be?
Tight enough that the extruder grips the filament and is able to extrude it consistently. If it is too tight it might deform the filament too much which could cause printing problems but it should be obvious if this is the case. There is a wide margin here so don't worry about this too much.
> 2 votes
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Tags: extruder, troubleshooting, renkforce-rf1000
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thread-13497 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13497 | Gaps/Holes in the 3D Print walls | 2020-04-23T06:24:33.977 | # Question
Title: Gaps/Holes in the 3D Print walls
I'm new to 3D printing, I bought an Ender 5 Pro just recently. Trying to print with 1.75 mm PLA, but the results are very bad, unfortunately. When I got after bed leveling I got a decent result from the demo dog and started to print small things, where the quality was acceptable. Then I tried to switch to bigger items, but the printing failed half-way due to not enough adhesion.
There were other quality problems too with this print, and you can already see that in the walls there are holes:
I did another round of bed leveling and Z alignment to make sure the adhesion is good and a test print came out quite fine in all corners and the center. The one layer rectangles and not perfect, in some places the lines separate, but they are mostly fine. But now I have a different problem: all the prints are very messy, less clear, they are not as strong as before and also there are big holes now in the walls. The same statue base (as I had to stop after getting messy earlier) looks like this now:
Another try failed after a few hours (like printing stopped and was printing nothing in the air), but also there is the holes/gaps problem even more visible:
Finally as a test I printed an object with the same G-code as previously used and the result is much different. The object on the left is the new one. It is weak, you can feel by pressing that the walls are not solid, they bend. The rectangle "eyes" are also not clear:
There is a difference though, I changed the extruder's nozzle between, the new one was also in the Ender package, it is also 0.4 mm as the original should have been, I changed to try with a new one.
Because of the last test with the same gcode, different result, I think the problem might be in hardware adjustment as well, not only software. Anyone has an idea what I'm doing wrong?
**EDIT 1**: after calibrating the extraction amount and reducing the print temperature from 200 C to 190 C, now I get the below result. The values used:
* Bed temperature: 65 C initial, 60 C for the rest
* Print temperature: 200 C initial, 190 later
* Print speed: 80 mm/s
* Wall speed: 40 mm/s
* Retraction: 10 mm
* Retraction speed: 80 mm
* Wall thickness: 0.8mm
* Layer height: 0.2 mm
* Initial layer: 0.2 mm
* Line width: 0.4 mm
**EDIT 2**: Based on the comments, some changes were made and here are the results. XYZ cube,
* print speed reduced to 60 mm
* layer height 0.12 mm
* Z Seam Alignment is Sharpest Corner
* Infill density 30 %
* Retraction distance 8 mm
* Retraction speed 40 mm
It looks good, the layers are visible though, some ghosting right to X and Y. The sizes are not correct though: X = 20.07 mm, Y = 20.03 mm, Z = 19.84 mm
Are X/Y acceptable? What should I do with Z, increase steps/mm ?
Finally here is the 3D benchy too, although looks mostly fine, there are some bumps in the walls and small strings in open areas. This was printed earlier and with different settings though:
* Layer Width 0.2 mm
* Print speed 80 mm
* Retraction 10 mm
* Retraction speed 80 mm
* Z Seam Alignment is set to Random
**EDIT 3** I tried now to print the PolyPearl, that has thin curving lines. The first try failed after 2 hours, a knob developed on the nozzle that ruined the print. This was printing with 190 C. I gave a new try and printed with 200 C, and amazingly it completed the job. See below the pictures, here are my settings for it (changes for Cura 4.6.0's default Super Quality):
* Layer height: 0.08 mm
* Initial layer height: 0.12 mm
* Wall thickness: 1.2 mm
* Z Seam Alignment: Sharpest Corner
* Print speed: 60 mm/s
* Infill acceleration: 1000 $mm/s^2$
* Print acceleration: 300 $mm/s^2$ (default is 500)
* Print jerk: 8 mm/s (default is 10)
* Retraction distance: 8 mm
* Retraction speed: 40 mm/s
The model sticks well to the glass plate even without glue or hair spray, maybe a little too well. I see some problems though, not sure how normal they are:
* outside area of first layer is not nice
* there is some oozing, thing lines on the surface and between the columns
* the top end of the tower is somewhat messy and there is a horizontal line attached to it (sure, can be removed easily)
* the bottom is very smooth, I can see the glass' texture (the Creality glass top is textured) and the texture of the very first failed print, when I didn't take into account the extra height of the glass after leveling, and the print head hit it hard and the nozzle got completely damaged. Beginner's fault.
Here are the images: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfuMFFedL171eLeM7
Are this problems normal/acceptable?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Let's see what kind of errors I see (accumulated from what I commented):
# Underextrusion
The legs seem rather underextruded. This could be a clogged nozzle as much as too fast printing or too low a temperature as well as too little pressure (e.g. miscalibrated extruder). Try a cleaning or a fresh nozzle, other playing with the parameter can wait after you fixed the next big issue.
To fix the under extrusion if it persists after fixing Ringing, experiment with the following settings:
* Check the mechanical system. Make sure that the extruder
+ has no defect. I had seen a lot of under extrusion when my extruder lever broke. The gear turned but did no longer push the filament.
+ does press the filament well with the idler bearing into the hobbled gear.
+ is properly calibrated according to the physical parameters. Use the Extrusion multiplier to account for different materials.
* Temperature. If extrusion comes bad, increasing it in 5 °C steps can help.
# Ringing/Ghosting
The cube with the indentations shows it best: There is a massive ringing happening. This is an effect that happens when the printer changes directions fast - the printhead can't accelerate and decelerate with infinity, as it has momentum, and as a result oscillates around the new path a little, like a sinus ring. This creates a "ghost" of the preceding path changes on a flat face, which is why I asked to print a cube.
To fix Ghosting and Ringing, there are 2 software fixes:
* reduce print speed.
+ this comes at the cost of longer print times
* work out better maximum acceleration and jerk
+ Reducing the maximum acceleration some (down to between 500 mm/s² to 1000 mm/s²) can massively better the quality at little to no effect on total print time, and keep your print speed up.
+ Jerk is the derivate of acceleration; finding out the two values that might be best for your printer setup can be a lot of experimentation.
There is also a hardware design way to reduce it in many designs by shaving off weight from moving parts or stiffening up the construction:
* Get a lighter printhead
+ remove unnecessary *addons*
+ swap for a lighter printhead design
+ changing to a Bowden design
+ in CoreXY: use lighter rails
* Stiffen the construction
+ Adjust the mounting of the carriage in such a way that it is better constricted
+ change out bearings and bushings for ones with tighter tolerances
+ bracings can massively stiffen a portal and cube design
# Height inaccuracy
This could stem from any of several sources. In descending order of likeness:
* the first layer is not a multiple of the actual layers (e.g. 0.12 instead of 0.2 mm) leading to a partial layer at the top being cut. in the example this would result in a **fixed negative error** about 0.08 mm.
* a miscalibrated first layer. Depending on your leveling skills, this can account for a **fixed error** of up to 0.1 mm for a bad calibration to 0.025 mm for a really good calibration. This error can appear both positive and negative.
* Z-Axis inconsistencies from a misaligned leadscrew, a sticky leadscrew, or insufficient Z-stepper voltage. Both would usually create a systematic error - as in printing a given **percentage** loss of height. Such inconsistencies can be fixed by solving the mentioned issue: check orthogonality first, then gently oil the screw with light machine oil (not WD40!), finally increase motor voltage slightly. Only if your results are massively out of whack, you should check if your steps/mm are set correctly. But I don't see the need in this case.
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Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting, creality-ender-5
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thread-13513 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13513 | Inconsistent printing results using same settings but different calibration models | 2020-04-24T17:31:55.343 | # Question
Title: Inconsistent printing results using same settings but different calibration models
I've got a second-hand Renkforce RF1000 which I've gone into more detail about in this question.
The extruder works however, I get some inconsistent results. First I printed a calibration cube and noticed huge gaps in the bottom layer. Because of this, I increased the extrusion multiplier to 1.05. I noticed there still were some gaps but also other issues, I then printed one with the extrusion multiplier reset to 1.0 and a negative Z-offset. The results are shown below. In every image, the left cube has multiplier 1.0 and the right cube has multiplier 1.05.
Then, for a better idea about the consistency, I printed a hollow pyramid. This shows some heavy stringing. However, when printing a retraction test I barely get any stringing.
Does anyone know what could cause these inconsistent results? I assume some hardware tweaks might be needed, not just slicer settings. Any help is appreciated.
* I use Slic3r
* I use 3 mm PLA printed at 190 °C on a 60 °C bed with some glue (doesn't stick without). The first layer is 200 °C with a 65 °C bed.
* After three layers the fans are enabled.
* I have a negative Z-offset, it probably isn't calibrated 100 % correctly
* I don't know the nozzle size (a new one is being shipped) but use a size of 0.5 mm in the slicer
* retraction length 2 mm & 60 mm/s
* minimum travel after retraction 1 mm
Print settings:
EDIT: After the recommendations I've changed the following:
* All belts have been recalibrated
* The e-steps have been recalibrated through this method. Couldn't do a wall measurement due to a lack of precise tools.
* Changed first layer temperature to 210 °C and other layers to 205 °C
* Added two top layers
I printed two new cubes. One without glue and with a Z-offset of 0.05 mm and one with glue and with a Z-offset of 0.15 mm. The results are quite comparable to the original ones although slightly better. Any recommendations?
I'm aware of some cooling issues on my prints. Once a new nozzle arrives I plan on printing the current cooling system again. It's not really blowing air right effectively now.
# Answer
> 1 votes
First of all, I would try printing a little bit hotter, let's say arround 210 °C. Secondly, due to how the X and Y letters are being printed in the sides of the cube I would suggest to tigthen both the X and Y belts.
Regarding the gaps, I would first try a flow rate test. You could use a cube like this one.
Using:
* extrusion multiplier = 1
* layer height: 0.2 mm;
* layer width= 0.4 mm ;
* wall count= 2.
Then measure the walls with a caliper and you should have 0.8 mm walls. Do a couple of measurements, get the average and divide 0.8 by it and multiply by a 100 (100\*0.8/average). That's your new flow rate.
I would also try to add 1 or 2 top layers to the print.
For the first layer, I would definitely get a glass bed and use hairspray. The bottom of the pyramid doesn't seem to be sticking well. Apart from this, I'm not really fan of using Z-offset. Just try leveling a couple of times manually with a paper to get it right.
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Tags: pla, slic3r, renkforce-rf1000
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thread-13463 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13463 | Raised lines on top layer surface Ender 3 | 2020-04-19T18:42:48.883 | # Question
Title: Raised lines on top layer surface Ender 3
I have an Ender 3 for two weeks now, my first 3D printer. I think I have a problem with top layers. See the left 3 stones on the first picture. It looks like lines and it feels like raised lines. The outer lines (walls) are perfectly flat, but the surface in between has heavily raised lines. I started with the standard Cura profile for the Ender 3 and tried .2 and .12 mm layer height, 2-5 top layers, 1 to 2 top surface skin layers and 5-20 % infill, all gave similar results. The only setting that solved it is the ironing feature (the fourth stone). While this solved it, it feels like I'm hiding an error in my printing with this feature and I would like it to print decently without ironing. The cat shows that my printer prints fine if no top surface is present. I have an Ender 3, upgraded with some fan guards and bowden clips and use Cura 4.5. SKR mini E3 and upgraded bowden tubes are on the way.
1. Is this normal?
2. What could be wrong?
3. Is ironing a commonly used solution?
4. Any idea what might fix it (apart from ironing)?
# Answer
I would firstly do a flow rate calibration:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2490893
print this using: 0.2 mm layer resolution;0.4 mm layer width; wall count= 2; infill=100% print it at the same temperature you printed the cat. measure the walls width a couple of times in different places, get the average and then do : 100\*0.8/average. the result is your new flow rate or extrusion multiplier.
I would then do a E-step calibration, use this:
Once you have this two parameters, re-print the block. I would suggest to print not faster than 50 mm/s and raise it by 5 mm/s if you see the thing is going right. Try a typical grid-20 % infill with 3 top layers and 1 superficial layer (usually you shouldn't need more than one). For these trials try scaling the blocks by 50% so you don't waste that much material. Try not to use the ironing function yet, you should get a uniform surface without it.
The weird thing is the holes pattern you get in all the pieces. Just in case, tighten your x and y belts, re-level your bed and try moving the extruder with your hand (gently) to see it doesn't wobbles.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3
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thread-13519 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13519 | How to access BIGTREETECH firmware | 2020-04-25T02:07:41.443 | # Question
Title: How to access BIGTREETECH firmware
I recently purchased a BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V1.2 and need to adjust some of the settings in configuration h to accommodate for my custom built 3d printer. In the past I've used the RAMPS 1.4 board and adjusted the firmware in the arduino IDE. What is the best way/recommended way to do this for the mini E3 V1.2.
Thanks.
# Answer
# Basics
Firmware can be distributed in 2 ways:
* As a compiled file (for example as .hex).
* As an uncompiled repository (as in a preconfigured marlin distribution) that needs to be compiled at the users' side.
# compiled file
Compiled files **can't** be altered easily. The only way to change settings after installation is to send the correct commands via a console to alter the settings in the SRAM then save the new settings into the EEPROM via `M500` from the M50X family of commands \- and hoping that EEPROM was activated in the firmware to begin with.
# uncompiled distribution
To alter an uncompiled Repository, you can follow the basic path in Updating Marlin Firmware - Step by Step Guide
> 1 votes
# Answer
The previous answer is good, but here's one specific for Bigtreetech.
1. Install platform.io. I use the command-line interface (CLI)
2. Modify your marlin files. You can clone existiing firmware for your board from the BigtreeTech Github for your board.
3. Remove microUSB card from your Bigtree tech board
4. Plug microUSB card into microUSB reader, and the microusb reader into the computer. You should be able to read your microUSB card
5. Enter the command in the root directory of your Marlin files: `platformio run -e STM32F103RC_bigtree_USB`. At least, this is the one for my board. You should have to run this in one folder before the `Marlin` folder.
6. It creates a file called `firmware.bin` in the directory `.pio/build/STM32F103RC_bigtree_USB/firmware.bin`. Copy it to your microUSB card, replacing and deleting any existing `.bin`. You can use the name `firmware.bin`.
7. Remove microSD card from computer and plug into board.
In your Marlin `Configuration.h` file, there should be a variable called something like `MACHINE_NAME`. If you make that name custom, then it will appear in the Octoprint terminal when connecting to your board, letting you know that you have updated the firmware.
> 2 votes
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Tags: marlin, firmware, bigtreetech
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thread-13514 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13514 | Getting a programatically-controlled, constant 12 V from one of the motor outputs | 2020-04-24T18:35:26.360 | # Question
Title: Getting a programatically-controlled, constant 12 V from one of the motor outputs
I'm building a device that requires five 12 V valves to be programmatically controlled as a switch. So far, I have been able to get outputs from the heated bed, extruder, and fan to be controllable through Marlin, by defining "SENSITIVE\_PINS" to be an empty array. I can now use `M42` to switch these pins on and off, allowing for programmatic control of 3 of the 5 valves.
For the other two valves, I'd like to control these directly from the 3D printer board somehow. I noticed the A4988 driver will rapidly flick a 12 V output on and off according to the microstep setting (https://lastminuteengineers.com/a4988-stepper-motor-driver-arduino-tutorial/). But this type of flicking is not really good for controlling a valve, because I want the valve to remain open until I say "stop".
What I would like is to be able to use the `M42` to command to administer a 12 V output on or off from the motor section of the usual boards. The A4988 driver takes in inputs like `Enable`, `Step`, and `Dir` from Arduino pins. Is there any way I can "hack" the A4988 driver to provide a constant voltage, similar to a relay switch? Alternatively, can I remove the driver and do something with the female pins that are normally used to connect to the A4988 driver?
In researching this I have noticed that when removing the driver, you expose some more 12 V female and GND pins on your board, which can provide an easy connection to a third-party relay or h-bridge. But ideally, I would be able to do this without adding any new hardware to the board.
This question is on-topic because it has to do with 3D printer boards that are currently on the market and because it is ultimately a device that is used to 3D print something.
# Answer
> 0 votes
It is easy. Leave the driver in. Connect to the first two wires usually used by the motor output. I.e. this is usually where the nema 17 motor goes. The first two wires are your output to the valve.
Use M42 to control the ENABLE pin. Bringing the pin high creates a 0V output. Bringing the pin low creates a 12V output.
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Tags: marlin, stepper-driver
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thread-13516 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13516 | How do the MAX endstops work? | 2020-04-24T22:12:46.453 | # Question
Title: How do the MAX endstops work?
I’m building my new 3D printer and I have a doubt. I’m using limit switches on the 3 axes, but only the MIN switches. I also have another three switches which I want to use as MAX switches. How can I do that? I mean, if I insert a specific measure of the plate in Marlin and than the extruded stops before of the limit of the plate due to the MAX endstop what will happen? What should I do, upgrade to MIN and MAX endstops or only keep the MIN ones?
# Answer
> 2 votes
You should see MAX endstops similarly as MIN endstops, or as an additional option to protect the printer:
1. Similarly seen as MIN endstops, you would define in the firmware that you are using them to set a reference point at maximum values, your offsets and bed dimensions would be calculated from the MAX positions;
2. You can configure the MIN endstops and have additional MAX endstops set beyond the bed size dimensions. If the printer would encounter a layer shift causing the nozzle to go beyond the printer (MAX) boundaries, the printer shuts down when the MAX endstop is triggered.
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Tags: marlin, endstop, axis
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thread-13530 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13530 | How can I determine the current value of a #defined variable? | 2020-04-26T09:34:19.323 | # Question
Title: How can I determine the current value of a #defined variable?
I previously set up my Ender 3 with a precompiled binary of Marlin that already had the correct X and Y offsets for the attached BLTouch. Now I'm compiling my own, and rather than measure for myself I'd like to just use the same numbers.
When I send `M851` through the terminal, it gives me the current value for the probe's Z offset from the extruder. I know I can also use `M851` to *set* the X and Y offset, but there doesn't seem to be a way to *read* the current values.
Is there any way to query the printer for the current values of `X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER` and `Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER`? Or, ideally, for any other arbitrary variable?
# Answer
> 1 votes
"#define" is a feature of the compiler preprocessor and isn't a feature of Marlin. So there is no general way to recover the value of a "#define variable" (which isn't actually a variable at all) unless Marlin explicitly provides the option.
In the current version of Marlin M851 will report the X and Y offsets. It appears you have an older version which does not do this. In older versions there appears to be no option to recover the value.
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Tags: marlin, g-code, bltouch
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thread-13534 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13534 | Zortrax m200 skipping through menu options on it own and live print bed | 2020-04-26T17:53:10.423 | # Question
Title: Zortrax m200 skipping through menu options on it own and live print bed
Out of the blue I’ve noticed my m200 has been skipping through menu options as if someone is pushing and scrolling the control knob randomly. Then getting a print off today I got several small electric shocks off the print bed through the spatula. Does anyone have experience of this or to I have a £1500 paperweight?
# Answer
# This sounds really concerning.
**Instantly** remove the machine from the power and check **EVERY** wire if it might be broken!
Check if your power supply is properly grounded!
Check if the connectors of the bed are undamaged!
> 1 votes
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Tags: troubleshooting
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thread-9872 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9872 | ASA and BVOH adhesion | 2019-05-07T19:44:06.350 | # Question
Title: ASA and BVOH adhesion
I am printing a mechanical part for my printer.
It's a new mount for my extruders and I have been attempting to use BVOH as a support filament so that when my print is done it will cut down on the need to finish the part and possible mistakes.
My problem is I can get the BVOH to adhere to the bed with no problem and no warping of any kind, but I can't get the ASA to adhere to the BVOH supports. I run the BVOH at 220 °C and the ASA at 250 °C with my fan at 10 % and I am using a Flashforge Creator Pro printer which is mostly enclosed.
Does anyone know of a way to get the ASA to adhere to the BVOH?
# Answer
Can you tell by looking at the de-adhesion what isn't sticking?
It may be that printing the ASA at higher temperature is melting the BVOH enough that it doesn't stick, being molten. If so, then it may be possible to print the first layer of ASA at a cooler temperature, slower if necessary to still succeed at extrusion, with fans blowing. Then, print the next layer of ASA at a higher temperature, also with fans flowing.
A test might be to print the BVOH, then a layer of ASA, and stop. Let it cool and test the adhesion. If it sticks under these conditions, then a better command of the temperature profile may offer a way forward.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Here's how I got it to work. I set the heat bed to 110°C and disabled the underlayer of the raft layer. I set the BVOH and the ASA to 235°C after the 4th layer I set the heatbed to 90°C and after the 6th layer I set the bed down to 60°C so that the BVOH hardened and adhered to the bed making sure that nothing curled or moved. After the print finished it took 24 hours for my BVOH to fully dissolve but thats probably because I set my support to 100% infill. Either way I got a perfect ASA extruder mount
> 0 votes
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Tags: filament, adhesion, dual-nozzle, asa
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thread-642 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/642 | How to remove white marks from PLA | 2016-02-24T21:40:06.150 | # Question
Title: How to remove white marks from PLA
When you cut or break a PLA model (for example to remove support) it often leaves an ugly while mark where the removed piece was connected.
Sanding also tend to leave dull white scratches on the sanded surface.
What can I do to restore the white areas to the original filament color?
# Answer
> 9 votes
As suggested by Ryan Carlyle you will need to use heat to reflow the plastic. However I recommend against using a heat gun as generally you want a very concentrated small area to be heated.
I have had great success in using a soldering iron with the tip placed close to (but obviously not touching) the problem area. Keeping within about 3-5mm has very good results, is easier to control and position. This limits the impact to the surrounding areas and can let you get into small crevices etc.
Just be careful not to touch the part.
# Answer
> 14 votes
A quick blast from a heat gun will very slightly reflow the surface texture and eliminate white marks.
However, it's important to avoid over-heating the perimeter layers or you'll see them soften and sag into the infill. So wait for the heat gun to get fully hot and then use a short duration of high heat. Let the part cool between attempts if you don't get it all the first time, or need to clean up a large area.
Incidentally, the heat gun will also help clean up strings from travel moves.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I have had success in 2 ways. After sanding, a little polishing with oil (vegetable oil is fine) will help to bring the colour back. If the oil gets cleaned off however you get back to the whitening again.
I'm also a a big fan of the reheating. It works on ABS too. I haven't used a heat gun though, only an open flame. I have had success with a lighter, and with a cook's blowtorch, this way you can be very localised in where you heat, but you need to be VERY brief. With a lighter just flicker the flame over the area concerned; with a blowtorch, start from far away and move the flame in and out of target until you see the whitening start to go.
A little practice on a part that is not too important would be prudent, and please be careful. I take no responsibility for you burning yourself :).
# Answer
> 3 votes
For PLA, white marks disappear at just over 60°C. A warm water bath works great, as does holding it over boiling water (use tongs!)
My favorite technique is to hold the part with tongs and wave it in front of the steam from a boiling tea kettle. It takes no more than a second, so you can do this on a dozen parts in rapid succession.
If you do this quickly, the plastic won't even soften noticeably; the white marks should disappear instantly.
If you don't want to get it wet, a heat lamp should also suffice. Holding it over a toaster for a second should work too. PLA gets soft at such a low temperature there's no need to use a heat gun, open flame, or soldering iron.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I've had amazing results just rubbing in a very small amount of vaseline. It makes the white marking virtually disappear.
I found this trick after printing a recorder for my son. I sanded the connecting tubes to help them fit better, and used vaseline there also for fit, but mainly to help seal the connections to prevent air loss. I was amazed to see the white marks disappear completely.
I don't have before pictures of the recorder to demo the effect, so here it is again using our old friend Benchy.
First, the original print, where you can just see some less-than-perfect results on the overhang at the base of the bow (sorry, my cell phone camera isn't that great)
Next we have the same part, after some sanding to smooth the section:
Note I have already wiped away as much white powder as I could. If this was something I cared about, I'd sand it more evenly across the entire hull, rather than just this section.
Finally, the same part again, after I've rubbed in some vaseline. In this case, what I actually had to hand was a small container of Carmex, but it worked just as well.
Again, my camera sucks... but you can see the important stuff: there's no white marks. It only takes a very small amount of vaseline to clean a fairly large area.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Note that on lighter colours these light scratches can be hard to see. On white PLA they're almost invisible unless you hold it against the light at an angle and look at the specular reflection.
I've had some luck on a flat surface (the face of a game tile I printed) by going through various grades of sand paper. 240, 600, 1000, 2000. Finally, finishing with a regular metal polisher like Brasso brings up a shine that doesn't seem to wash off, unlike vaseline/vegetable oil.
It's quite a lot of work though, and even more work on curved surfaces. If heat treatment works for you, it may be preferable.
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Tags: pla, post-processing
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thread-13511 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13511 | PET-G grid print problem | 2020-04-24T11:12:43.387 | # Question
Title: PET-G grid print problem
My supports 'grid' prints with empty spaces (after stoping extraction over perpendicular lines) (BTW. I have checked the direction when it appears and it has nothing to do with coastig)
(the end result is: extra filament sticks to nozzle forming 'big bomb' and end up with screwed printout due to layers shift)
* Printer: Qidi X-Plus
* Slicer: Qidi Print 5.3 based on CuraEngine 2019/09/24
* Retraction: 3 mm, 30 mm/s
* Filament: PET-G Spectrum
* Temperature: 220 °C
* Bed temperature: 80 °C
* Speed: 60 mm/s
What could be the reason? This is particularly evident on PETG.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You mentioned coasting. Absolutely make sure that's off. Coasting inherently extrudes less material than what's needed to print the model correctly, and this underextrusion will accumulate. PETG is really sensitive to underextrusion because it doesn't self-adhere well without a lot of effort to get things right (temperature, speed, etc.) and unless/until the amount extruded is enough to adhere well, it'll just get dragged by the nozzle.
Also 220°C is way too low for PETG, and low temperatures will exacerbate this kind of problem. I'd consider 230°C the absolute minimum for PETG, and 240-250 preferable. Ignore what the filament manufacturer or vendor advertises about lower temperatures being okay; this is normally a marketing ploy to ensure they can sell to users with printers that don't recommend high temperatures or have hard limits in firmware and users who are worried about PTFE off-gassing when operating at higher temperatures (not a real issue at or below 250°C, and probably not even up to 260-275, but still common FUD). Even if they don't want to be deceptive they're competing with other vendors who do.
Further, make sure fan is off, or at least set to very low speed. Rapid cooling will completely mess up PETG adhesion. PETG is still very viscous at printing temperatures (unlike PLA) so there's no need to start cooling it right away to ensure it keeps its form.
Finally, PETG is just a real pain to print with. At first I thought it was a nice material, because it holds shape well and can stand up to fairly high temperatures (which are still true), but there are lots of gotchas and it's really hard to tune your settings to get good adhesion and strong parts. Be prepared to do a lot of experimentation beyond the things I've written in this answer to get good results if you want to keep using it.
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Tags: support-structures, petg
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thread-13526 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13526 | How to make a printer bed vibrate using g-code (heated chemical stirrer)? | 2020-04-26T05:58:11.507 | # Question
Title: How to make a printer bed vibrate using g-code (heated chemical stirrer)?
I was just about to start using my 3D printers heated bed to warm a chemical reaction in a container and was thinking it would be great to be able to get the bed stepping back and forth to stir the pot. Can anyone already up to speed in programming G-code walk me through a quick and dirty way to get the X-axis on my old Printrbot metal doing a couple of micro-steps either way in an endless loop? Or suggest some software out there that could achieve the same effect?
# Answer
Basically you need to write a G-code file yourself. This is a plain text file with a `.g` extension.
You need to home the printer with `G28`, then move the Y axis all the way forward (for a Prusa style printer) with `G1 F1500 Y{ymax}` (where `{ymax}` is the length of the bed). Now raise the head with a similar command `G1 F500 Z{zmax}` (where `{zmax}` is the height of the printer volume).
Heating the bed is done with `M190 S60` (set and wait to reach 60 °C).
You can now rock the Y axis by moving it fast, e.g. with `G1 F5000 Y{ymax-5}`, `G1 Y{ymax-1}`, `Y{ymax-5}`, `Y{ymax-1}`, etc.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Stefan from CNC kitchen already did it: https://github.com/CNCKitchen/3D-Printer-Vibration
> 1 votes
# Answer
Never mind, figured the quickest dirtiest way myself - created a tall thin cylinder shape model in Blender and positioned it in Repetier so the printer head will be clear of the table as it moves. Then just broke off the filament that was currently in the printer so it will stop feeding once the current piece gets to the end of the feeder wheel. - not an endless loop but should give me a good 10 or 20 minutes of agitation before I need to restart the print if necessary.
> 0 votes
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Tags: g-code, desktop-printer, scripts
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thread-13533 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13533 | How to interpret Trinamic driver continuous debug reporting? | 2020-04-26T12:45:40.010 | # Question
Title: How to interpret Trinamic driver continuous debug reporting?
In Marlin one can enable continuous debug reporting of Trinamic drivers with the command
`M122 S1`
This sends lines similar to the following over the serial connection:
```
X:93/28/0|| Y:35/14/-|IF| Z:54/28/0|| E:176/25/0||
```
Each driver appears to report three integer values and some flags. I understand the `F` flag indicates an error state, for example the overtemperature pre-warn condition (OTPW).
What do the other values mean? How can this information be interpreted to debug printing problems or improve performance?
# Answer
> 2 votes
In the Marlin source code I found the function responsible for the report logs: `report_polled_driver_data` in `Marlin/src/feature/tmc_util.cpp`.
The values indicated appear to be:
```
<Axis>:<PWM scale>/<Current scale>/<StallGuard>|<Flags>|<OTPW count>
```
Where possible flags are as follows (where “debug” indicates that they only appear if `TMC_DEBUG` is enabled):
* E: **E**rror
* O: **O**ver-temperature
* W: over-temperature pre-**W**arning
* G: stall**G**uard (debug)
* T: stealth**C**hop (debug)
* I: standst**I**ll (debug)
* F: otpw **F**lag
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Tags: marlin, stepper-driver, tmc2130
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thread-13542 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13542 | First 3D print made up of diagonal strands | 2020-04-27T15:36:07.983 | # Question
Title: First 3D print made up of diagonal strands
Just got a Creality Ender 3 yesterday. Set it up and ran the dog test print. Photo below.
I used the sample filament that came with the machine. I'm not 100 % what kind it is, but assuming it is 1.75 mm PLA.
No matter what temperature I set the end and bed, when I launched the print, it would change to 200 °C hotend, 45 °C bed. Is that because the two temperatures are set within the gcode file? Do I need to set a higher nozzle temperature? And to do so, will I have to alter the G-code file?
Does the head need cleaned? I did try some blue ABS I bought, and didn't work, so I switched it to the sample filament. There was still some blue ABS in it, but seemed to be gone after a few seconds after the extrusion turned pure white. But might there still be some ABS clogging or slowing the filament?
EDIT: When I ran the test file with ABS, the material didn't adhere to the bed or itself, just created a jumbled bird's nest of spirals. Then I found something online that I needed to use the temperatures on the ABS spool. I set the temperature to 245C nozzle, 100C bed. But as soon as I ran the print, the nozzle went to 200 and the bed 45.
Is the motor that moves the filament moving too slow?
Is the head moving too fast?
Should I use a glass bed?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Based on your comment to the comment of 0scar:
> When I go to Fillament, I get: E in mm3: On; Fil. Dia. 1.750
That's almost surely the problem. Unless the model was sliced for "E in mm3", this setting needs to be **off**. What it does is change how the printer interprets extruder moves in the G-code: rather than in linear mm of filament to move, as volumetric mm³ to extrude.
At 1.75 mm diameter, that's a factor of 2.4 mm³/mm, so you'll only be extruding 1/2.4 = ~41.5 % of the material needed. That extreme underextrusion will give **exactly** the effect you're seeing.
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Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, underextrusion
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thread-13546 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13546 | Diagnosing why the left side of a print detaches from the board | 2020-04-28T05:34:59.320 | # Question
Title: Diagnosing why the left side of a print detaches from the board
I have and Ender 3 Pro, which I'm enjoying except for an intractable problem. No matter how carefully I level the nozzle and tighten the X belt, using this great guide, the prints seem to be tilting to the right, particularly if they're tall. I realize this is a common problem, but I'm at a loss for what it's called and where the problem is most likely to be.
The first sign of trouble in paradise is that, after two layers of a simple rectangular base for a Galton Board I'm trying to build that uses sand, the right side is clearly thinner than the left:
This is with a translucent Overture PETG filament, 1.75 mm.
For the board itself, which is about 15 cm tall and looks MUCH better if printed vertically, I notice after about 3-4 cm that the bottom of the left side is becoming detached from the bed:
This gets progressively worse as the print goes on:
The entire Galton Box takes six hours to print using the default PETG settings in Cura for a default level of detail, so I'd really prefer to find a way to diagnose the problem sooner. I know this is not a new problem, but I'd be grateful for any guidance on what it's called or links to how to fix it -- and how to determine if it's a hardware problem or not.
Also, out of curiosity: If the machine isn't PERFECTLY level on the table -- my work desk appears to slant by about 2° -- could that be implicated?
# Answer
> 0 votes
The uneven level is explained by the unfortunate choice of the printer manufacturer to **not have** a second Z lead screw. It is pretty difficult to level these printers, it is all a combination of the correct X belt tension and roller tension. The uneven level in the first picture is what is causing your print to detach, As can be seen you've got a lot of "squish" on the right side, but less adhesion (seen by the less transparent color) on the left, therefore it would fail on the left.
You need to:
* level better,
* fix the skew XZ gantry or
* use an adhesive (and/or a `brim`).
---
Please note that the level of the table top has **nothing** to do with the leveling of the printer, nor with the leaning of your prints. You're just having adhesion problems as a result of an uneven bed/gantry.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, heated-bed, bed-leveling, adhesion
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thread-13550 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13550 | Using 2x CAT6 cable for 24 V hotend | 2020-04-28T21:04:43.233 | # Question
Title: Using 2x CAT6 cable for 24 V hotend
I'm looking to replace the troublesome ribbon cable of my Duplicator 6 with a 2xCAT6 arrangement for all things extruder.
1. Are 4 26AWG wires (2 sets of 2 twisted pairs) enough copper for 50W heater at 24 volts?
2. Are 2 26AWG wires (1 set of 2 twisted pair) enough copper for the ground connection of the heater?
3. Can I consolidate ground connections of the low power fans/sensors to free up more wires?
4. Is it okay if I have some pins be 24 volt like for the heater and others be 12 volt for the fans?
5. Should I get a lower gauge CAT6 cable like 24 AWG? 23 AWG seems to exist too.
# Answer
Do not consolidate ground wires, use as many as the positive ones. In fact, use one wire of each twist for ground and one for the related positive, so that they balance each other.
Mixing voltages is fine, the CAT 6 cable will hold 24 V fine.
Concerning the number of wires, you should check the allowed current per wire and calculate the required number of wires.
Each pair can carry 0.36 A. 50 W is 2 A, you need 6 pairs for the heater.
You get two spare pairs, which can carry in total 0.7 A at the voltage you prefer. You could use two for the thermocouple and two for the fan, or two different fans.
> 2 votes
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Tags: hotend, electronics
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thread-13548 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13548 | BigTreeTech mini e3 V1.2 endstop installation | 2020-04-28T19:37:49.080 | # Question
Title: BigTreeTech mini e3 V1.2 endstop installation
I recently purchased a BigTreeTech mini e3 V1.2 controller for my custom built 3D printer (as opposed to an pre-purchased ender 3). In doing so, I ran into the problem that the endstops I have been using have three wires: Power, Ground, and signal. The mini e3 V1.2 that I purchased uses endstop connections that only have two pins. This can be seen in the schematic below on the bottom right of the controller. I don't know where to buy endstops that only have two pins and have not been able to find anything online. If anybody knows where these can be bought or how the 3 pinned endstops are supposed to be wired up it would be much appreciated.
# Answer
You do not need to connect the red (+) wire of the endstops. The controller board uses a technique to ensure the signal is 3.3 V or ground, see the top left schematics of this link (will insert an image later!). Specifics about this technology is found here and is explained as using a pull up resistor.
What happens is that the signal is always reported as triggered, unless the endstop connects the signal wire to ground.
This link shows that only ground and signal are required (will insert an image later!).
> 1 votes
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Tags: wiring, endstop, skr-mini-e3, bigtreetech
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thread-7943 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7943 | How does a 3D printer software/firmware work | 2019-01-11T01:35:02.860 | # Question
Title: How does a 3D printer software/firmware work
I have been working on a printer project that basically is a 2D printer (dot matrix type). We are using solenoids as actuators to make impressions on the paper. We are now in the process of designing custom software. But a problem that we have encountered is that we have no idea how to design software as we are a bunch of beginners in this field.
An idea we are working on is based on position-acknowledge technique. In this technique the computer sends G-code to the controller. The controller after reaching the position defined in code sends an acknowledgement and the computer then sends the next signal. This is the model we are currently working on.
* Can anyone suggest any other ideas to make this work?
* Is Our approach right?
* Do 3D printers work using same technique?
# Answer
> 3 votes
You appear to be asking about rate-limiting the stream of G-code provided by the computer, but some more context in your question will help if this is not the case.
Printers tend to work in two ways.
1. Read G-code from local storage as a text file. Here, the parser/control engine is in full control.
2. Stream G-code over a serial port using an 'ack' handshake.
The reference for G-code used in 3D printing is the RepRap Wiki. Here you will find responses such as `ok` `resend` and `fatal`, these indicate when a previous command is processed and something else can be sent, if the previous message was identified as corrupt, or if recovery is impossible.
The basic rule for this style of handshake is that after every host to slave transaction, the host **must** wait for some response before sending another transaction. The slave could send either ACK responses, or other asynchronous transactions if you can design the system to avoid or not care about overrun in the slave to host direction.
When designing a handshake like this, you can consider all possible ways for something to go wrong (assume the interface is imperfect). How can you handle a request being missed and no ACK ever? When there is a timeout, can you make a 'benign' request to see if the printer is still connected, etc.
# Answer
> 2 votes
3D printer firmware use gcode that is derived from CNC and no acknowledgment. They send movement commands to the stepper motors like `G1 X10 Y10` to move the printhead 10 mm along the X and Y.
You could use a ready 3D printer firmware like Marlin on a 3d printer board and use the X-axis or extruder output to couple to your solenoid, sending a `G1 Z0.1` or `G1 E0.1`, which will actuate it for a short time. You might even use E and Z on different solenoids.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Are you interested in receiving the instructions correctly, or interested in how the instructions are executed by the hardware? This answer doesn't go into the software communication between controller board and software that sends the instruction from another software/hardware platform (see this answer), this answer addresses the positioning/movement.
Most of current 3D printers do not track the position of the print head. The software instructs the head to go somewhere, but it never checks if it actually arrives at that exact position. Problems like missing steps of the stepper or skipping notches on the belt are not detected and the printer will continue thinking it has reached the position.
Skipping of belts is a mechanical issue and should not occur (nor can be detected unless there are stepper steps missed), but skipping of steps is something that can be detected by certain type of stepper drivers (trinamic). Steppers do not use a feedback loop to check the final position. Servos, opposed to steppers, use a feedback loop, and as such are able to reach the position as instructed, but this comes a an increased cost, servo's are more expensive and hence not found in most of the "cheaper" 3D printing machines.
It is up to the designer of a 3D machine to choose the motors for the positioning system, if it is not highly loaded, you go for steppers without a feedback loop, or in higher loaded machines for servo's (basically steppers with some positioning electronics for the feedback). In case of a stepper you hope that it reaches the destination you tell it to go to, for a servo, you known that it reaches that exact position.
To get back on topic of your question, there is no feedback on reaching the position (you call this acknowledgement), you just send the G-codes sequentially or in a buffer to the printer electronics which executes the statements one at the time (this is done by the firmware, this this answer for replies of the machine on the code it receives). It is your choice of the hardware that actually determines whether this is executed like instructed. Do note that most machines are not highly loaded (the 3D printhead is not very heavy and *normally* does not hit any obstruction in its path as Z advances) justifying the use of steppers without the need for feedback. CNC machines, certainly the larger ones, that position a highly loaded cutting tool need such a feedback loop as the positioning needs to be very exact. You need to consider the forces at play in your paper punch machine, but from my point of view, your machine does not seem to be highly loaded. In such a case you are not in need for a more expensive positioning system, nor the need for the processing of a return/feedback signal in your custom software.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The CNC system, and simplifying intentionally, is divided into several steps:
1. **Acquisition of the g-code**: This depends on the platform, whether is a file from an USB flash-memory, network or direct input from the operator. G-code operations needs to be buffered in a quantity enough to allow some "look-ahead" in the program.
2. **Parsing of the g-code**: Parsing of any formal language is based on "formal grammars" theory https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formal\_grammar. Fortunately, g-code is one of the simplest grammar of the Chomsky hierarchy. Language parsing is a full topic in itself, and it follows lexical, syntactical and semantical analysis.
3. **Driving**: It exists several different strategies:
* **Open-loop vs closed loop**: In closed-loop CNC, sensors provide a feedback from the movement, allowing the driver to fix deviations (e.g. no step lots). Those systems are more expensive and usually not available in cheap 3D printers. In open-loop CNC, the driver send signals and "hope" the machine will follow, this is the case of most cheap 3D-printers, where if you block the head, it will lose steps.
* **Synchronous vs asynchronous** (not sure about this naming): In synchronous systems, the driver send a single step for each axis each loop (one step forward, no step, or one step backward for each of the x, y, z, a... axis). In each iteration, the driver establish which steps need to be activated and send it; the speed of the movement depends on how fast this loop is performed. In Asynchronous driving, the loop run at a specific speed and apply steps as needed to correct the distance between the previous/detected position and the expected position.
Acquisition and parsing of g-code can be performed in soft real-time, however the driving needs hard real-time, which precision determine the maximum speed that your CNC can manage.
The servos/steppers usually cannot manage infinite acceleration, this is why the system needs to read g-code instructions ahead to anticipate closed angles or changes in direction. It should then reduce the indicated speed down to something which allows the next instruction.
I hope this give a quick introduction to the topic, obviously, each aspect needs further reading.
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Tags: marlin, diy-3d-printer, firmware, software
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thread-13557 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13557 | Need sanity check debugging non-functional extruder | 2020-04-29T22:19:08.280 | # Question
Title: Need sanity check debugging non-functional extruder
This is the same machine involved in this question: ender-3-pro-extruder-stepper-skipping-with-a-chunk-sound.
After reassembling the extruder, I discovered that the extruder stepper did not move, using prepare-\>move-axis. All three axis steppers did move normally.
The first thing is did to test was to exchange the wires to the extruder and X-axis steppers. After this the extruder stepper moved when I moved the X-axis but the X-axis did not move when I moved the extruder. Therefore, I concluded that the stepper is working.
I then opened up the main board chassis and exchanged the X-axis and extruder cables there (so the cables are exchanged on both ends). This restored operation to the X-axes (operated as such) and the extruder did not function again (operated as such).
From this, I concluded that the cables are also fine and I had somehow blown the extruder driver on the board.
I went on Amazon and ordered a "silent" Ender 3 Pro motherboard, rev 1.1.5 to replace my current rev 1.1.4 board. I just received the new board and, as far as I can tell, it looks like an authentic Creality product. The only visible differences between the old and new boards are the silkscreened version and the color of the PCB itself. Both are labelled "Ender 3 Pro" on the back.
I carefully removed the old board, marking where all cables connect and swapped in the new board. Much to my distress, everything acted exactly the same. The extruder stepper did not turn. Swapping the cables at the steppers restored functionality to the extruder (controlled as X-axis) and the X-axis did not move (controlled as extruder). Also swapping the cables at the motherboard restored the X-axis stepper (controlled as such) but the extruder stepper would not move (controlled as extruder).
I should add for Completeness that my printer was sold by Sain Smart (Creality OEM, I believe) and was labelled as such, both on the metal and on the LCD start screen. However, the motherboard was a Creality3D board, labelled as "Ender 3 Pro" and I believe the only actual difference is the text inside the firmware. With the new board in, the LCD identifies itself as "Creality Ender 3 Pro".
At this point, the only conclusion I can come to is that the new board has failed in the same way, which doesn't make any sense.
**I need a sanity check. Does anyone see any flaw in my logic?**
I should add that there is an oddity on the new board. The fan on front of the hot end seem to run at full speed and the hot end side fan and chassis fan run briefly at power up an then stop. Using control-\>temperature-\>fan-speed seems to have no effect on any of the fans. I never observed the chassis fan with the old board so I cannot say this is different but I did previously have control of the hot end fan.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The extruder motor will not turn unless the hotend is at a certain minimum temperature. This is a safety feature to prevent the extruder from grinding through the filament with a cold hotend. You can use the M302 command to control this behavior.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, stepper-driver, stepper
--- |
thread-12070 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12070 | Any experience with nylon drying on heated build platform and printing on paper? | 2020-02-25T10:05:10.763 | # Question
Title: Any experience with nylon drying on heated build platform and printing on paper?
A while a go I thought that I could try printing in Nylon on my Wanhao Duplicator i3 with full metal hotend. Boy, was I wrong: The filament was not dry and popped like foam. The platform (Buildtak) was not sticking at all (at any temperature), I had the cooling fan at 100 %, so the bits that stuck to the platform warped like the Enterprise. I learned that a filament dryer, an enclosure, Gaolite and PVA glue will be my friends, but I am determined to not spend a lot of money to printing something that I don't need often. (PLA works fine for me)
I am now at the point that I dry my filament by leaving a roll of nylon on the heated buildplatform at 90 °C. It stopped popping and hissing, so I guess that works. I learned that nylon sticks to cellulose, so without needing to recalibrate I can tape a piece of printer paper to the build platform and it sticks like crazy! Extra bonus is that if it warps, the paper curls up slightly and keeps the print from falling off. I have only printed a single test piece until now, so I can't really say if it's to be recommended.
Has anybody used these methods (drying nylon on heated build surface and printing nylon on paper) too and have you found any downsides?
To make this a worthy stackoverflow question: **"Can I dry nylon on my heated build platform and print nylon on paper?"**
# Answer
Heating spools on the bed can be an option, but it seems inefficient to me: you lose a lot of heat and an oven would save quite some energy. Also, I wonder whether the open air will reduce the effectiveness even more, since the outer parts and the top of the spool will be colder.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, nylon
--- |
thread-13549 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13549 | Are stepper flex couplings important? How important? | 2020-04-28T20:48:34.397 | # Question
Title: Are stepper flex couplings important? How important?
TL;DR:
On my particular printer design, it definitely appears the company switched from flex couplings to solid couplings on purpose to improve the printer, and to prevent well-meaning users from adjusting the previous flex couplings. Whether or not this is a good design overall, is left for the reader to decide. It's certainly simple and cheap to use the motor itself as one of the leadscrew thrust bearings, but in the future I might add a micro-adjustable bearing block in place of the motor, and then couple the motor to the leadscrew with a flex coupling. That would be more typical of the way it's done on CNC machines, where the stepper bearings are isolated from any machine loads.
Original post: I bought a Artillery X1, supposedly the latest V4 version. It's my first printer, but I have experience with CNC machines. Although the pictures and YouTube videos all show the Z axis steppers connected to the leadscrews with flexible (spiral type) couplings, the printer I got has solid couplings.
I thought flex couplings were important to prevent binding, so I was going to buy some flex couplings. But as I look at the printer, it appears the leadscrews actually are supported by the stepper motor itself at the bottom...there are no thrust bearings, so the weight of the printhead is supported by the stepper motor directly through the coupling. Since the spiral flex couplings can compress slightly, is the use of solid couplings deliberate in order to make a more precise machine? If I install flex couplings, will it make my printer worse by introducing "spring" into the system? Is this a typical design, or do other printers have thrust bearings or "hang" the leadscrews from the top?
There are a lot of reviews and videos about this printer where people noticed the leadscrews were internally touching the end of the motor shaft inside the coupling, and people thought that was wrong, so they spaced them back apart. Now, I wonder if the shafts touching was a deliberate design decision, and maybe the company even switched to solid couplers to prevent people from adjusting the couplers back. Please help me solve this mystery of the solid motor couplings.
EDIT: I found a related application where the axial rigidity of the stepper couplings matter. In the following YouTube video the author deliberately jams together the lead screw and stepper shaft in order to eliminate spring from the flex coupling. This tends to solidify my theory that this printer uses solid couplings deliberately, and other printers with similar Z axes could potentially benefit as well. The X1 uses floating support bearings for the X stage to prevent binding, which probably helps.
Also, in this YouTube video the author describes how he deliberately decided to use rigid couplings on this printer to improve his Z axis and references other sources which come to the same conclusion.
# Answer
> 2 votes
# Yes and No
Let's start with the obvious: Flex couplings or rigid couplings are a deliberate choice in designing the printer. Each has its benefits and drawbacks. So let's look into the 4 types of drive-train setups that I know to be possible:
* Spiral couplings make it possible to operate the machine with a slightly misaligned motor to the shaft (\<1°) but can add a measurable slop, which can be seen as a systemic error.
* Rigid couplings have minimal slop but need to be much better aligned by the user in setup.
* No coupling at all - direct drive to the shaft - has no slop at all, but is both more expensive and needs the most diligent work on setup.
* Geared. You could couple the motor with the Z-Axis via gears, allowing to trade speed for detail and vice versa. It also can allow mounting the motor 90° to the printer, but it also adds some backlash and slop. Because good gears are expensive, this is really rare.
# Using spiral couplers right
A spiral coupler can actually be used in two ways:
### Keeping the leadscrew tensioned into a position.
This butts both parts together, it reduces the slop induced by the coupler to the minimum, but you need to forcefully make sure that the parts push together. You lose some of the misalignment-correction.
### Decouple vibrations from one shaft to another.
This keeps a little gap between the two. The slop can be larger, but you get the benefit of the shafts on both sides not transmitting all the vibrations 1:1 to the other shaft and you get more self-realignment if the motor and shaft are not perfectly coaxial.
# What is better?
Well, it depends. If you want the perfect drive, you'd go direct drive. If you want the finest motor control (by virtue of getting the steps to a much smaller rotation), you might use gears. But the spring-coupler allows you to do the setup easier for a consumer that might not be the most reliable in setting it up himself. Making the spring-coupler butted can increase repeatability and reduce slop to almost the same as a stiff coupler but not lose the ability to have a slightly crooked setup that still works.
---
Tags: stepper, lead-screw
--- |
thread-13566 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13566 | Automatic bed leveling probes outside of bed despite NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET | 2020-05-01T11:08:31.700 | # Question
Title: Automatic bed leveling probes outside of bed despite NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET
I just changed the motherboard of my CR-10 mini printer to an SKR 1.4 and installed Marlin 2.0.x on it. Everything seems to work except for the automatic bed leveling. I’m using an EZABL probe.
The probe is mounted to the left and slightly in front of the nozzle. Therefore I have set the probe-nozzle offset in Marlin as:
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -45, -12, 0 }
```
When I run automatic bed leveling with G29 the nozzle moves to a position where the sensor is outside of the bed (but the nozzle is inside the bed). And then it crashes down into the bed with the nozzle because the Z endstop is never triggered.
To debug I used the DEBUG\_LEVELING\_FEATURE in Marlin and ran G29 from Pronterface. This is what I got:
```
SENDING:G29
current_position= X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00 : >>> G29
Machine Type: Cartesian
Probe: FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
Probe Offset X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.00 (Right-Back & Same Z as Nozzle)
Auto Bed Leveling: BILINEAR (disabled)
current_position= X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00 : Probe::set_deployed
deploy: 1
Probe::move_z(5.00)
>>> do_blocking_move_to X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00
<<< do_blocking_move_to
reset_bed_level
>>> Probe::probe_at_point(30.00, 30.00, raise, 0, probe_relative)
current_position= X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00 :
>>> do_blocking_move_to X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00
<<< do_blocking_move_to
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00 : Probe::set_deployed
deploy: 1
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00 : >>> Probe::run_z_probe
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00 : >>> Probe::probe_down_to_z
>>> do_blocking_move_to X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00
<<< do_blocking_move_to
echo:busy: processing
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : sync_plan_position
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : <<< Probe::probe_down_to_z
FAST Probe fail!
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : <<< run_z_probe
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : Probe::set_deployed
deploy: 0
>>> do_blocking_move_to X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00
<<< do_blocking_move_to
Error:Probing Failed
[ERROR] Error:Probing Failed
```
What I don’t understand is why it says:
```
Probe Offset X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.00 (Right-Back & Same Z as Nozzle)
```
Because that is not at all the NOZZLE\_TO\_PROBE\_OFFSET I have defined. Is there another setting related to the nozzle/probe offset besides NOZZLE\_TO\_PROBE\_OFFSET that I have missed? Or why does Marlin get the idea that my probe is to the right and back of the probe when in reality its to the front and left?
# Answer
> 0 votes
The problem is that, although you have set the offsets correctly, the boundary limits for the probe to "probe the area" have not been adjusted. It is my belief that this is a flaw in ABL of Marlin 2.0.x. If the user has set the probe offsets, the firmware already knows that the probe area is limited!
This answer on question "How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?" describes in detail what the boundaries of the probe are for Marlin firmware 1.1.x **and** 2.0.x.
Basically, you need to set the boundaries of the probe using some extra definitions in your Configuration\_adv.h file:
```
constexpr int nozzle_to_probe_offset[] = NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET;
#define PROBE_X_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[0]
#define PROBE_Y_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[1]
```
When including the `MIN_PROBE_EDGE` this means that the area is defined as:
```
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE - PROBE_X_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (MIN_PROBE_EDGE - PROBE_Y_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)
```
*(Since the offsets are negative in your probe setup, we need to subtract the values in order to add up the absolute value to the edge...)*
---
Tags: marlin, ezabl
--- |
thread-13406 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13406 | Print failing at random, resulting in a "hairy" mess | 2020-04-13T19:47:17.077 | # Question
Title: Print failing at random, resulting in a "hairy" mess
**TL;DR;**
My initial answer fixed the problem for a while, but it still persists occurring... (see update 2 below)
---
*Original question body:*
Print fails at random resulting in a hairy mess although I:
* cleaned bed,
* added glue,
* leveled bed,
* tweaked temperatures and cooling,
* cleaned nozzle,
* tightened wheels, checked the axes,
* tried to print temperature tower.
What else to do ?
---
First off, the equipment I use:
* Printer: Artillery Sidewinder X1
* Slicer: Cura
* Filament: PLA
At first the prints came out as expected.
There is some bending at the bottom, that was later resolved by adding a brim. The object above and the ones later were printed with roughly the same settings:
* Layer height: 0.28 mm
* Wall line Count 3
* Top/Bottom Layers 3
* Infill 40% cubic
* Printing temp. 205 °C
* Bed temp. 60 °C
* Print Speed 40 mm/s
* Retraction on
* 100 % Fan speed
* added Brim (after the first)
Yesterday that same part failed after 4 hours. I had to stop the print because the printer was making "a hairy mess" around the object.
As you can see there was some under extrusion earlier in the print which I didn't notice at first. I thought the part came loose since it had little to none adhesion to the bed and after cleaning the bed properly and using some glue I started the print again. The result was the same, this time the print failed a bit earlier.
(The small part was printed on top of the loose mess before it failed completly)
This time the bottom was quite loose again. After that I decided to print some smaller parts and do some troubleshooting first. I noticed some weird looking "curly" lines right away and stopped the print. It looked like "under extrusion" and a "not properly leveled bed". (Notice that didn't happen in the prints before). So, after leveling the bed and printing the small part again the part got printed well until the top 3 layers which looked under extruded again and I could see the infill pattern through them.
I added 5 °C to the printing temperature and (the smaller parts had 30 % infill) upped the infill to 40 %. That didnt resolve the issue completly but the print looked well enough and I had another go at a slightly bigger print.
This time not quite as tall at the ones before and it failed again. The first hour or so everything looked fine, but the printer was getting quite noisy, every retraction was a very loud clicking sound the printer itself was shaking quite a bit during movement and the print failed again. This time the object was very firmly on the bed and I had to use some force to get it off.
The noise and shaking made me check the axis and tightened the wheels a little bit and after that I cleaned the nozzle with a "cold pull". The last thing I did was printing a temperature tower which failed in the same way and looks quite bad overall.
So my question is: Where do I go from here? I'm quite new to 3D printing, there still seems to be some under extrusion going on, what are my next steps ?
Please note that it seems that the filament curls up at the tip of the nozzle randomly, resulting in a few lines not getting placed properly on the already printed parts. Eventuelly the print then fails. When I push filament throught it curls up and the stream is relatively thin. Not always though, most of the time it looks fine maybe a bit thin. Can that be a clogged nozzle if X layers get printed ok, then for 5 seconds it messes up and then prints okay again?
**\[Update\]**
After changing the nozzle the filament stopped curling up and the lines look much, much better. But the problem persists. I started 2 prints, both failed a couple of minutes in. The second one on the first layer. It seems that the nozzle picked the just printed lines up.
**\[UPDATE 2\]**
Back to square 1. It seems that I fixed a problem that I created while trying to fix the original problem.
After 4 successful prints and ~20 hours of printing the last print failed in the exact same way as shown in the pictures above. The filament is curling up at the nozzle again. The heatblock is **not** leaking.
* new heatblock
* new heatbreak
* new nozzle
* new tubing between nozzle and idler
* old filament
* old print profile, settings
I guess the nozzle is clogged ?! Can that be after such short printing times ? I dont want to clean everything for 2 hours after every print. Or worse change everything out after 15 hours or so.
# Answer
> 3 votes
After I finally had the time to disassemble the extruder and I found a possible culprit - which did solve the issue for some time.
As you can see on the pictures the heater block leaked and this lead to some filament dripping off of the side and onto the print. The nozzle then eventually caught these drips and this caused the mess.
Here are some tipps for beginners like me:
1. How to disassemble the extruder on the Sidewinder X1
2. Be carefull when trying to screw the nozzle out. You will most likely need some heat to soften up / melt the filament. I was not carefull and broke the thread. I then had to replace the whole heatblock.
3. Examine the tubing that leads the filament through the heatbreak and to the thread of the nozzle mine was a little bit deformed and didn't seem to be cut off straight to begin with.It has to be as flat as possible against the nozzle thread!
This was most likely the problem, Over time and after several melting ,hardening and melting procedures some filament creeped between the threads and the heatblock started to leak .. first slowly then worse and worse.
Hope that helps anyone. My prints come out great again. Plus I now know a lot more about my printer .
**the original problem reappeared, see my update 2 of my question**
**\[UPDATE\]**
Just to close this off: I can only guess what the original problem was but since I had this issue some times now I am quite certain, that it has to be bad filament (I am using really cheap one) and a relatively dusty environment, mixed with overreacting when trying to solve this issue. I got some needles with which I - fairly regularly - unclog / clean the nozzle especially after longer times without use.
---
Tags: underextrusion, print-failure, artillery-sidewinder-x1
--- |
thread-13573 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13573 | Re-homing Z: trouble resuming a print, what if I can't re-home? | 2020-05-02T17:58:11.343 | # Question
Title: Re-homing Z: trouble resuming a print, what if I can't re-home?
Running Marlin 1.1.2, printing from Octoprint on Linux PC. So, the PC freezes up and I have to pause the print and reboot. It's a 36 hour print with 11 hours left to go and I'd rather not start over.
I have the X, Y, and Z coords of where I need to begin again, and I've deleted all the GCode to that point. In the several tutorials I read on how to resume a print, they all assume that the printer - which in my case had a restart of its own - knows where Z is. I can safely rehome X and Y, but when I try to rehome Z the print head moves to the center of the plate, which of course would cause a collision with the model.
On my printer the Z-axis switch is over to the side of the frame holding the print bed, so I can home Z with the print head anywhere. Is there a way I can home Z without the head moving to center? Or, barring that, some offset I can enter for Z so I can resume at the same height I started? I can't wrap my mind around what I need to do here.
# Answer
Was able to make it happen, though I fear that I may have misjudged exactly where zero was, but we'll see in a few hours.
Anyway, for those who may come along later, here's what I figured out:
I already knew what my X, Y, and Z positions should be.
I kept the heat on for the bed so the print wouldn't shrink and break loose.
With the plate lowered and the print well out of harm's way, I homed X and Y. Then moved X10 Y0, a convenient place to work.
I set relative positioning on, G91, and moved Z up toward the print head until a business card was *firmly* clamped between the head and the plate.
I then set Z at zero, G92 Z0. Apparently Marlin (or Octoprint? idk) will let you print without homing Z as long as it knows where zero is.
I moved to print head to my desired X, Y, and Z positions and checked it against the model, which seemed to be right. I fear that I may have not zero'd down enough, so there will be a noticeable gap/weak spot, but I won't know that until I get more layers on than there are at this moment. I suppose if that's true, then I could just shave off the new layers and reset zero a couple of layers tighter.
The rest of the steps for resuming a print (editing the G-Code and what-not) are readily available in a dozen or more tutorials, so I won't cover that here.
**Follow-up**: yep, left too much room. I shaved off the new layers (having a kiridashi really helped there) and re-zero'd, but this time, after doing so I entered my initial Z value so that the nozzle touched the model and adjusted from there. Note that aesthetics aren't an issue: these are mechanical parts to all they need is to not snap in the middle. Having a seam there isn't a problem.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, z-axis, flsun-3d-cube
--- |
thread-13505 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13505 | Partially missed / dragged layers | 2020-04-23T21:23:04.590 | # Question
Title: Partially missed / dragged layers
I'm trying to diagnose a print issue that *looks* like a missed layer (sorry, first-time printer here)
and
Specs:
* Printer: QIDI Tech X-Plus (direct drive).
* Material: PLA.
* Extruder temp: 200 °C.
* Bed temp: 60 °C (70 °C first layer).
* Print speed: 60 mm/s (actually 48 mm/s on non-infill because of `min_layer_time`).
* Retraction distance: 2 mm.
Started from a new printer: I was getting imperfect prints (lesser version of this, functional part) and contacted QIDI support. They eventually replied that my bed was too low but I had since lowered the bed on a misdiagnosis. They supplied a slightly modified G-code but that also failed in a similar way.
Since then, I've been raising the bed bit by bit to try to fix this issue. I don't care about the little whiskers much, but the solid "connecting lines" are a problem.
Questions:
1. Is this actually a bed-leveling/height issue?
2. What is this defect called (whatever the cause)? I've been googling but can't find something that looks like this.
3. Is there a better way of fixing bed height issues than just printing-\>tweaking bed height-\>printing?
I'd appreciate any help diagnosing this issue - even if it's just the name of this problem. I have no experience disassembling/looking at hardware but I could always give it a shot.
## Update
As per comments I took a look at `coasting` and ran some tests. I first re-leveled the bed manually (I'll call that height=0). I don't want to add tons of pictures so I'll show the baseline, and "bad" refers to similar failure as above.
```
+--------+--------------+------------+-----------------------+-----------------+--------------+-------------+
| | Combing | Coasting | Retraction distance | Extruder temp | Bed height | Results |
|--------+--------------+------------+-----------------------+-----------------+--------------+-------------|
| Test_1 | infill only. | off. | 2.0 mm. | 200 C. | 0. | Baseline. |
| Test_2 | infill only. | off. | 2.0 mm. | 200 C. | +0.05 mm. | ~ Baseline. |
| Test_3 | off. | off. | 2.0 mm. | 200 C. | 0. | Bad. |
| Test_4 | infill only. | off. | 1.5 mm. | 200 C. | 0. | Bad. |
| Test_5 | infill only. | off. | 2.0 mm. | 190 C. | 0. | TBD |
+--------+--------------+------------+-----------------------+-----------------+--------------+-------------+
```
(+/- 0.05 mm height achieved with clicks of "fast leveling")
Test 1 external view:
Test 1 internal view:
## Update
I think I've confirmed an **under-extrusion** problem. Here is a top layer printing I stopped partway through.
This looks exactly like Simplify3D's Guide. So I manually pushed through, removed, and re-inserted the filament - and cleaned the nozzle with a brush.
I then ran a new print and noticed a clicking sound in the extruder (I don't know if it's new or if I simply noticed because I was focused on under-extrusion problems) - the print failed in the same "dragging" way as above, but the top layers were slightly better.
I'm now going through the list of possible causes of clicking extruder + under-extrusion.
# Answer
I managed to confirm the dragged layers were mostly due to **under-extrusion**.
I had a `faulty extruder` (clicking sound) and once I swapped it out it was greatly improved.
It's worth noting I also had a slight `z-wobble` issue so that could have played a role.
Hopefully this can help somebody out as I hadn't seen this kind of symptom in any of the print quality guides.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, extrusion, layer-height, qidi-tech-x-plus
--- |
thread-13585 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13585 | New glass bed, should I glue it? | 2020-05-04T04:39:21.517 | # Question
Title: New glass bed, should I glue it?
I have an Ender 3, I got a new glass bed, the bed comes with glue on the back.
Should I stick the glass bed to the aluminium base? or just use it with the clips? I saw other people just use the clips, but my glass seems to have a sticky back...
# Answer
There are pro and cons for leaving the sticky protection baking paper on the slate of glass:
pros (for not glueing it):
* Can be removed more easily in the future (the collant is not easy to remove, requires a solvent and elbow grease)
* Can remove the slate of glass to put it in the refrigerator to loosen stuck prints
cons:
* Need for binder clips that may cause nozzle collision and decreases bed size (unless you use kapton tape to fix the bed)
* Backing paper adds another layer of insulation (unless you remove it and all the goo)
> 2 votes
# Answer
Use Clips on either the left or the right. The aluminum might not be flat. Using clips or the adhesive will cause the glass to warp, defeating the point of using the glass.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, glass-bed
--- |
thread-13589 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13589 | Infill not printing well. What I am doing wrong? | 2020-05-04T13:26:50.130 | # Question
Title: Infill not printing well. What I am doing wrong?
I am a new to 3D printing, somehow, the infill of my print compiled by Cura 4.5 is weak. I print with generic PLA (FD plast) on 200 °C. See image below:
Print details: I have a Zonestar Z6FB which I use together with Cura 4.5. I print in PLA at 200 °C (Cura default for PLA). The print bed is set to 60 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.1 mm, the line width (wall thikness 0.8 mm?) from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 60 mm/s for everything. My retraction is unknown.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You problem clearly under extrude which mean the plastic not flow as much as it should be. I face this problem recently here my step to solve.
1. Tune e step (do this first)
2. Add more temp. to nozzle (so plastic will melt and flow faster)
3. Slow down print speed.
4. Change nozzle and clean whole hotend.
---
Tags: infill
--- |
thread-13595 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13595 | Why do slicers have nozzle size settings? | 2020-05-04T21:05:09.853 | # Question
Title: Why do slicers have nozzle size settings?
It seems to me that the size of hole in the nozzle shouldn't matter in and of itself. If you program in the layer height and line width, then the same amount of plastic has to be extruded, no matter what size the hole is in the nozzle.
Of course I understand that, mechanically, the best results are got with the line width slightly larger than the nozzle size. We couldn't print a 0.3 mm line with a 0.6 mm nozzle, and trying to print a 1 mm line with a 0.4 mm nozzle probably wouldn't work well either. But in terms of what the actual G-code needs to do, the nozzle size doesn't seem to matter. After all, printers feed filament based on length/volume, so the size of the nozzle shouldn't impact the amount of plastic extruded.
What prompted this question: I want to switch from a 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.8 mm nozzle, but I cannot find out how to change the nozzle size in Cura. There are many bug reports about the nozzle size setting disappearing or not displaying in Cura, and I think that's my problem. However, in the troubleshooting threads, many people claim that you can just change the line width and ignore the nozzle size completely and the result will be the same. In other words, if I want to switch from 0.4 nozzle and 0.48 line width, to 0.8 nozzle and 1 mm line width, I can just keep my slicer set to 0.4 nozzle size, but increase the line width to 1 mm, and if I physically install a 0.8 mm nozzle, it will do exactly the same thing. There are even Cura developers saying the nozzle size setting will be removed in a future version completely.
This may depend on the way individual slicers work. Has anyone tried switching between say 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle settings, while leaving the line width the same (say 0.8 mm line width for both), and see any differences in the G-code? I can't test this myself, because I can't change the nozzle size right now...
# Answer
CNC kitchen tested various extrusion widths with various nozzles and in fact there's no difference, only the line width matters. https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/big-nozzles-how-do-they-make-your-3d-prints-stronger
Of course it's up to you to avoid too thick layers with small nozzles.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I never thought about that!
I do know from experience that Cura uses nozzle sizes to sanity check your settings, warning you if you do something unreasonable. That is reason enough to include the feature for me. However, I did wonder what, if any, differenced this actually makes, so I tested it and here's my results:
I went through and tested it on the 3DVerkstan Face Mask. I compiled the same model in the same place in **Cura**, the only differences between the two being that I changed the nozzle size from 0.4 mm to 0.8 mm. I then ran the VS Code Diff Checker on the files as well as loaded the exported gcode back into Cura to compare and got some interesting results.
1. The estimated times and filament usages are very slightly different: 2689 seconds for 0.8 and 2698 seconds for 0.4, 6.18899 m for 0.8 and 6.18883 m for 0.4. This means something different is happening somewhere, but it's very similar to within a rounding error.
2. The brim is exactly the same for both. No differences whatsoever in the G-code.
3. When the model starts printing, everything in the gcode becomes different. This seems to be down to a few reasons: (note these photos were taken by exporting gcode then re-opening that gcode into Cura)
* Differing layer start positions
* Possibly a difference in line overlaps? On the 0.8 mm file, cura shows a larger gap between the brim and the part, and more overlap between the outer wall and inner walls when compared to the 0.4 mm file.
That's all the differences I can observe in this model. Every layer is different in the gocde, but it seems to be down to the two differences noted above. IMO, that's all inconsequential and you should be fine to change all the settings to how they should be for a larger nozzle and be just fine. Other than the warnings, nozzle sizes may be a holdover from a past version when they were more useful, or simply may have just seemed like a reasonable feature to put in at the time and no one really thought about it.
---
As far as changing nozzle size goes, I go to `Preferences` \> `Configure Cura` \> `Printers` \> `Machine Settings` \> `Extruder 1` \> `Nozzle Size`. If that option is not there, consider creating a new machine of a different type that's similar to what you have. I have an Anet-A8 but use the Prusa i3 printer type in Cura since that's most similar to what I have.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Technically, you don't need the nozzle diameter. All you need is line width, layer height and filament diameter. After all, all the settings are just used to create a displacement of the filament feedstock (volumetric displacement).
But slicers do use the diameter to set initial values for some parameters, e.g. the wall width.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I’m using sli3r. It use nozzle size for some auto value like auto extrusion width which calculate by 105% of nozzle diameter and prevent some error like setting layer height greater than nozzle diameter.
> 0 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, extruder, nozzle, layer-height
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thread-13603 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13603 | How to fix bad extrusion that's likely caused by high pressure in the nozzle | 2020-05-05T10:00:47.137 | # Question
Title: How to fix bad extrusion that's likely caused by high pressure in the nozzle
I've got a secondhand Renkforce RF1000 which I can't seem to get working properly. Initially, I asked about hardware issues that required fixing. After fixing those I still got some inconsistent printing results. These problems got worse with a new nozzle and new filament. I've now narrowed it down to one problem: bad feeding
To summary:
* I've got a secondhand Renkforce RF1000
* I print using 2.85 mm PLA
* I've got a new 0.3 mm nozzle
* I've got new springs for holding the filament against the extruder
*The feeding mechanism*
The problem seems to be that the pressure for extruding filament through the nozzle is too high. This causes the grub screw to keep spinning without extruding filament. So in the picture, the left screw will spin and the right one will remain stationary.
This isn't consistent, it might work for a few millimetres and then stop working for a bit. It can cause the screw to grind into the filament creating a hole that cuts the filament in two.
Here's what I've done to try and fix it:
* Cleaned the nozzle with new 0.25 mm needles
* Cleaned the nozzle with acetone against ABS that was stuck
* Did a few cold pulls to confirm there's no filament stuck in the heater.
+ This wasn't the case and when removing the nozzle I could easily push or pull filament through.
* Tightened and loosened the screws holding the filament against the grub screw
+ Too tight causes clicking or more grinding. Too loose causes the filament to just not get caught at all
I'm out of ideas of how to fix this. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.
EDIT: here are some video's extruding 50 mm of filament at 2 mm/s and 10 mm/s
Controls
10 mm/s
2 mm/s (both links to imgur, didn't manage to get the video inline)
EDIT 2:
I replaced the driving gear and replaced the new nozzle with an old one. I'm not sure about the size of the old one but I assume it is 0.5 mm. I calibrated the extrusion and tested at 1 mm filament per second, I now get the exact results. However, when printing two 20mm calibration cubes I get quite bad results. The first cube (left) is printed at a 1.0 extrusion multiplier and the second one (right) is printed with a 0.95 extrusion multiplier. Any idea what these quality problems are caused by?
\[ \[ \[ \[
# Answer
> 3 votes
I think you are pushing filament too fast.
Let's go back to the basics: my hotend (old Ubis, ceramic) and extruder can push PLA at 230°C at max 80 mm/s * 0.5 mm line width * 0.2 mm layer height = 8 mm<sup>3</sup>/s.
At this speed it doesn't extrude very well, there is too much back pressure (see also
). That extrusion speed means (I have 3 mm filament) 1.13 mm/s of filament speed (8 mm<sup>3</sup> / 1.5<sup>2</sup> / pi).
You have 0.3 mm nozzle and you print colder, both of which cause more resistance to the flow. If 8 mm<sup>3</sup>/s is my absolute max, yours should be about 8 * 9/16 (ratio of the nozzle surfaces) = 4.5 mm<sup>3</sup>/s (really the max).
Considering the different print temperature, I would start limit to 3.5 mm<sup>3</sup>/s, which is 0.55 mm/s extrusion speed.
If you print 0.15 mm layers with line width of 0.35 mm, your absolute max printing speed should be 3.5 mm<sup>3</sup> / 0.15 /0.35 = 65 mm/s (which is better not to reach, 60 is fine).
Try doing the following tests: after cleaning the driving gear, extrude 50 mm filament at 0.3 mm/s and measure how much filament has been extruded. Then repeat 50 mm with 0.5 mm/s, and measure how much filament has been extruded. Try again at 0.75 mm/s. Obviously don't touch E steps and extrusion multiplier. I'm quite sure that at 0.75 mm/s you will notice a measurably shorter length of filament extruded. At 1 mm/s you will see grinding (but not as much as now).
If you want, try at regular intervals 0.2, 0.3 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7 mm/s and plot a graph of the actually extruded filament length. It will look like the one in the video (where he extruded a lot more and weighed the filament, which is time consuming and more expensive).
And then switch to 0.4 mm nozzle if it's too slow for your needs.
**Additional information**
You use 2.85 mm filament with a direct drive, no gears. Judging from your video the radius if the driving gear (teeth) is about 4 mm, meaning 4\*2\*pi=25.1 mm circumference. The circumference is controlled with 200 steps * 16 microsteps, as result each microstep controls 4\*2\*pi/200/16 mm filament length, which is 0.05 mm<sup>3</sup> and what you extrude along a 0.95 mm length (at 0.15 mm layer height and 0.35 mm line width). Basically your extruder has no control for moves shorter than 0.95 mm, but in fact it's even 4x worse, since you never get a single microstep precision (4 microsteps of tolerance is more reasonable).
You should probably use a much bigger nozzle, or 1.75 mm filament, or a geared extruder, or prints will never be accurate and you will have problems all the time, which you cannot physically solve.
---
Tags: extruder, renkforce-rf1000
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thread-13594 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13594 | Z motors only working manual, do not home correctly | 2020-05-04T19:25:11.723 | # Question
Title: Z motors only working manual, do not home correctly
I'm currently setting up my custom built 3D printer with a BTT SKR mini E3 v1.2, and so far I have all the endstops and x and y motors working. The problem is that when trying to home my z motors, they just vibrate and make a lot of noise, which tells me they're not getting enough current(which makes sense cause there's two of them as opposed to the other axis). The weird part is that when I manually control them on pronterface, that is just clicking up and down on the arrow wheel, they work perfectly fine. It's only when homing that they vibrate and make a lot of noise. I've tried using the M906 command to raise the current on the motors - they started at 560, and I slowly worked my way up to 4000 - and witnessed no difference. I'm not sure what to adjust from here. Thanks for the help in advance!
# Answer
> 1 votes
Jogging the Z axis may be a sequence of very short moves, happening relatively slowly.
Homing may be a longer, faster move. The homing move would depend more heavily on the maximum velocity, maximum acceleration, and jerk parameters. If there are too high the z axis won't operate properly since the motors will attempt to move faster than is supported by the torque, and the rotating magnetic field will lose control of the permanent magnet rotor.
To fix this, find how the motion limit parameters are controlled for your software, and reduce them all by a factor of 50. It should work, although perhaps too slowly.
I would also reduce the current setting. Microstepping motors doesn't work when the magnetic field is driven to saturation.
---
Tags: z-axis, motor
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thread-11489 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11489 | Printer extrudes too little filament at beginning and end of extrusion | 2019-12-06T17:31:59.570 | # Question
Title: Printer extrudes too little filament at beginning and end of extrusion
I've bought a new type of filament (GreenTEC Pro Natural) for my Anycubic Mega i3 to print some food-safe cookie cutters. Now I have changed the print settings to an extruder temperature of 210 °C and a heated bed temperture of 60 °C and everything works well.
But when I look at the print, I see that too little filament is extruded at the beginning of an extrusion and at the end. So every time the nozzle is lifted to move without extruding, it takes too long for the filament to correctly start extruding again (see picture).
What can I do? Is there a setting to print slower at these points (I'm currently using Cura)? Maybe change retraction distance? Different extrusion temp? Before I used PLA from Anycubic and everything worked fine...
# Answer
> 2 votes
Check your retraction settings.. It's either too far or one of your priming/wipe settings is off, some slicers call it priming or extra restart distance.
Your linear advance "k" might be set wrong if you're using linear advance.
I see a bit of under-extrusion on the between walls and center, your overlap % might a little short. Or you're printing too fast for the filament to melt and deposit.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I think there's a retraction issue(had the same issue). You need to change retraction and check whether there are any improvements. Some times different filament types need slight filament setting calibration.
---
Tags: print-quality, filament, quality, underextrusion
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thread-13610 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13610 | Resin prints pulling away from build platform | 2020-05-06T20:01:03.137 | # Question
Title: Resin prints pulling away from build platform
My prints start out good, but seem to warp or pull away from the build platform at a later time. Should I divide up my support bases so they're not one big base? Should I sand/roughen the build platform for better adhesion?
Printer: Elegoo Mars Resin: Standard Grey (Elegoo) Exposure base layers: 70 sec Exposure elsewhere: 11 sec Layer height: 0.05
# Answer
> 2 votes
It's difficult to tell from the image, but one aspect of resin printing that you want to consider when placing a model is the cross-sectional area for each layer. You'll see prints that could be printed flat on an FFF printer being placed at an angle on a resin printer.
This orientation presents a smaller cross-section and thereby a smaller amount of force applied when the bed lifts and peels the model from the bottom of the vat.
If you have the ability within your slicer to scrub through the layers, observe the general area created by the slicer for each layer.
If you tilt the model even a few degrees from level, you'll reduce the forces involved.
It appears that you've used a "priming" layer on your bed, the initial layers of resin ostensibly provided to reduce the problem you're experiencing. That's a good start, but the rest of the model is generating enough peeling force to ruin the print.
---
Tags: adhesion, resin, elegoo-mars
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thread-13593 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13593 | Advice on power supply wiring for the UK | 2020-05-04T19:24:03.677 | # Question
Title: Advice on power supply wiring for the UK
I've been looking at the Ender series and decided to take the plunge. But I'm unsure on electrical matters. The 110 or 220 volt switch, I assume goes to 220 V as I live in the UK but my main question is, from what I've read they come with an EU plug and a uk adapter, is it safer to switch to a 'kettle lead' for it to have it's own fuse and be grounded or is the adapter it comes with fine? *(I've never been a fan of adapter and I've read in different places that they're fine or that they are horrible.)*
Please help as if I need to buy a cable I'll do it the same time I buy the printer. Thank you all in advance for any help I get, hope to join this community properly as soon as the printers come back in stock anywhere.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The fuse *may* be academic, because there might be an integrated fuseholder in the PSU itself. That said, adding another fuse in the form of a proper UK plug certainly won't hurt.
I'd certainly do this, too. Fuseless plugs have no place in my home/workplace
For the rest - yes, the 220V position for the switch is good. Grounding, again, certainly can't hurt, but the PSU is probably double-insulated, which doesn't require it.
# Answer
> 1 votes
# Safety First!
To guarantee proper grouning and avoid putting the machine on a static charge level against the ground of the house you need to properly connect the ground wires to the ground wire of the house. This is done by using a grounded power cord with a **C13-plug on the machine end** and a proper, grounded plug fitting your sockets on the other end.
## Proper plugs
In most of the continental EU (safe France), you usually can use a Shuko (Schutzkontakt) TypeF/CEE 7/3 while the Type E+F/CEE 7/7 plug adds France on the house end, as these are proper grounded 3-wire plugs. But in the UK you need a **Type G/BS 1363 plug**, with or without a fuse.
## Fuses
Because the machine operates on mains voltage in the PSU, it usually already has a fuse mounted inside the PSU, so a fused plug is not strictly needed, however it is not a bad idea to include an extra fuse - technically you'd end with 3 in total if you are properly grounded because the circuits breaker-box fuse is there too.
## Wire Extensions
What would be a bad idea though is to use any extension cord in the wiring that is not grounded because it might use a plastic ground pin or lack the metal contact surface needed to ground the cord.
## Improper plugs
A 2-wire "Europlug". Europlug CEE 7/16 is only rated for 250V/2.5A and **not grounded**, thus it is **not** suitable for operating a 3D printer , and I strongly advise **not** to use a gritish folding plug either as it is not grounded!
# Safety Mantra!
Let me reiterate this: **Only use grounded connections from machine to socket or you risk creating a charge on the machine!**
Check your socket's ground if you are not sure it is properly installed. For further information, I strongly suggest watch Angus (Makers Muse) with how he discovered a problem with his extension cords leading to a potential dangerous charge on his machine and DIY3D Tech explaining the basics of the problem and how to solve it to you again!
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Tags: creality-ender-3, electronics, safety, creality-ender-5
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thread-13620 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13620 | Define coordinates for Z homing | 2020-05-07T14:39:59.630 | # Question
Title: Define coordinates for Z homing
I have a printer with the following dimensions: L300 x W300 x H400. After flashing Marlin software, the extruder keeps homing at X77 Y50 instead of X150 Y150 that is the center of the printing area for me. Where can I find the appropriate line in config file in order to edit it with preferred coordinates. Unfortunately I can only find info on how to change offset of origin point. In my case origin point is correcty set.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you enabled `Z_SAFE_HOMING`, then automatically the printer homes Z at the middle of the build plate, if the bed size dimensions are correctly defined (in your case `X_BED_SIZE` and `X_BED_SIZE` should be defined as 300).
In `Configuration.h` you can find:
```
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#endif
```
If `Z_SAFE_HOMING` was enabled, and the bed properly dimensioned, it could be that the steps/mm are incorrectly defined.
Note that if a probe is used, the offset of the probe to the nozzle center is taken into account, this implies that the probe is moved to the center, not the nozzle. The code responsible for this is found in `G28.cpp`:
```
/**
* Move the Z probe (or just the nozzle) to the safe homing point
* (Z is already at the right height)
*/
destination.set(safe_homing_xy, current_position.z);
TERN_(HOMING_Z_WITH_PROBE, destination -= probe.offset_xy);
```
*I.e. the ternary operation (`TERN_`) determines the addition of the probe offset.*
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Tags: homing
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thread-13625 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13625 | Low Accuracy while perfect travel movement | 2020-05-08T06:55:21.510 | # Question
Title: Low Accuracy while perfect travel movement
I own an older Anet A6. Flashed the Marlin Firmware on it (and think I configured it properly). Also updated to the latest 2.0.5.3 some days ago). The nozzle is a 0.4 mm one, direct drive extruder.
When printing calibration cubes I used
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 99.7, 96.4, 400, 91.6 }
```
settings to correct for what I measured earlier. So the printed cube 20x20x20 mm came out almost "perfect". Yet I faced another problem: scaling. So printing stuff 100 mm wide resulted in 97.2 mm prints. As if an error multiplied with the distance.
So I created a test object consisting of multiple "rectangles" (overlayed) in X and Y direction. Some of the dimensions were less than required and others bigger..
So the holes ("drills") were 0.4 mm too small (so half a nozzle diameter). In "Cura" I could fix that with the newly added inner hole correction or negative horizontal expansion values. Yet this would also "cut" the thin parts (top and right rectangle on the image - with a width of 1.2 mm - so 3 lanes of print material on my 0.4 mm nozzle).
Without and with adjustment the inner width of the rectangles is also off by more than 0.2 mm.
I printed with my normal speeds (80 mm/s for fill and even slower for other stuff) which creates fine output except the accuracy. I also printed at 20 % of this speed (so \<10 mm/s for the first layer!) without any change. So it should not be the "acceleration/jerk" creating the issues.
I then restarted calibrating everything:
* calibrated extruder (10 cm filament ... and measuring how much was really moved), was not off by more than 1 mm
* calibrated axis by moving nozzle to a specific point and measuring X/Y/Z movement ... I needed to go back to 99.9 for X, 99.9 for Y and 101 for Z). So almost back to vendor settings.
I moved the hotend over and over - replicated the exact movement in all directions 20 times each. It did not "slide", so stuff started and ended exactly at the same spot each time.
Now I printed my test cross (and other stuff) and while the X-Axis was only a bit off "outside" (inside still a bit more off), the Y-Axis was only 97 % and height as it should.
I printed via:
* RepetierHost 2.1.6
* Cura 4.6.1
* RepetierHost 2.1.6 + Cura exported gcode file and adjusted "speed" (25 % of Cura-settings)
Sum up:
* calibrated extruder (10 cm filament measurement), calibrated axis (measured movement distance)
* printed at very slow speed to avoid "acceleration/jerk"-inaccuracy (did it do that?)
* prints are inaccurate yet precise (multiple prints result in same incorrect output)
* calibrating "steps per unit" via calibration cube results in perfect calibration cubes but still "too small inner holes" and inaccurate prints of bigger dimensions
So: how to properly fix that issue? How to calibrate the dimension accuracy properly - is there something more than "steps per unit" to adjust?
Tried to find an answer here and elsewhere on the internet but seems I lack the right term to search for to find an answer. Hope you could help me.
# Answer
You *shouldn't* calibrate the steps/mm for the X, Y, and Z axes. Just use the default settings which are based on the theoretical values for the given belts/leadscrews/threaded rods.
The mistake is in assuming that the error in the dimensions of the 20x20x20 calibration cube are purely due to the steps/mm setting. Due to a variety of reasons (inconsistent extrusion, measurement error, slop in the printer, backlash) no printed part will have its dimensions be perfectly accurate (no FDM 3D printer is capable of better than a few tenths of a millimeter accuracy in part dimensions). When you calibrate the steps/mm so that a 20x20x20 cube comes out "perfect", you are hiding all of these *non-linear* inaccuracies in a *linear* compensation of the steps/mm. When you then print a larger part, these inaccuracies (which are incorrectly compensated for in the steps/mm) get blown up.
Suppose your calipers had a constant error of +0.1 mm, i.e. every measurement reads 0.1 mm higher than it should. If you calibrate your steps/mm so that a 20x20x20 calibration cube comes out "perfect"; the actual size of the calibration cube would be 19.9 mm (which your calipers would read as 20 mm). If you then were to print a 100 mm part, it would come out as 99.5 mm which your calipers would read as 99.6 mm.
**If** you insist on calibrating the steps/mm you should do so by *printing a part as large as possible*. This ensures that the constant error is divided over a large part size, giving a better estimation of the actual steps/mm. However, usually the theoretical value is more accurate than what you can measure yourself, even with a part taking up the entire print bed.
> 10 cm filament ... and measuring how much was really moved
10 cm is a very short length; you would get a much more accurate calibration with a 100 cm length. However, calibrating the e-steps very precisely is kind of pointless. It is hard to do so precisely because extruding into free air (and at possibly a different speed than when actually printing) will result in a different amount of resistance and thus a different length of extrusion than during an actual print. You will need to calibrate for the diameter and flow characteristics of the actual filament anyways, during which calibration you can much more effectively compensate for small inaccuracies of the extruder steps/mm.
Perhaps it would be a good idea to look into the rigidity of the entire printer and how securely the parts are mounted. If there is a lot of play in the bed or hotend this could also explain why parts are turning out oversized.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, calibration, anet-a6, repetier-host, dimensional-accuracy
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thread-13635 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13635 | Face where there should be no face | 2020-05-10T10:36:46.750 | # Question
Title: Face where there should be no face
When importing this .stl file in Creality Slicer another face appears in the middle when viewed in layered view. This face is not visible in my 3d modeling software Blender. I tried cleaning up the model a bit and to triangulate the faces myself, neither helped and the problem is still there. Also I didn't find anything online.
# Answer
> 4 votes
At the intersection of the top and bottom planes of the cross-piece and the cylinder, there are non-manifold edges. Meshmixer is able to identify this problem but cannot repair it. My slicer, Simplify3D also identifies the faults and prints a solid cylinder between the planes. Prusa Slicer 2 also creates a solid at that location.
As you've indicated that you are the creator, consider to use the 3D printing features within Blender to assist you with repairing the problem locations.
> File ‣ User Preferences (or `Ctrl`-`Alt`-`U`) to open the User Preferences menu.
>
> In the Add-ons tab, start typing 3d print into the search bar. Once the “Mesh: 3D Print Toolbox” shows up, click the checkbox on the far right to enable this add-on.
>
> Close the User Preferences window.
>
> In the Tool Shelf, there should be a new 3D Printing tab.
---
Tags: 3d-models, stl, blender
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thread-13640 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13640 | Prevent raising Z-axis after homing | 2020-05-10T22:10:37.333 | # Question
Title: Prevent raising Z-axis after homing
I've recently configured my Bigtreetech mini e3 v1.2, and I have every aspect of the printer running well except for the initialized homing sequence (the problem is sometimes small enough to where I can still get a good print). Originally what I was running into was that because I used two Z stepper motors, any movement that wasn't manual input on Pronterface would cause the motors to vibrate and make noise (not enough current). Now the only time the Z motors make noise/vibrate is right after the homing is complete and they briefly move up when the nozzle begins to heat, as well as right after the heating is done and the nozzle dips down to begin the print. I suspect it's because of a fast increase in Z speed that I don't necessary need. I've tried changing a multitude of settings in `Configuration.h` but haven't had any luck. Does anybody know the command that dictates the Z motors to very quickly move upward just after homing and before heating?
# Answer
Just solved my own problem. Instead of looking in Marlin for the command, I found out the reason it was lifting up quickly was because of a custom command embedded in the G-code by the slicer. I got rid of the command and the problem was solved.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: g-code, z-axis, homing, bigtreetech
--- |
thread-13632 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13632 | Nozzle jiggles when screwing into heating block | 2020-05-09T20:18:29.180 | # Question
Title: Nozzle jiggles when screwing into heating block
I've had the Ender 5 Pro, as is, for 3 months.
After I tried a cheap PLA filament (maybe too cheap), it clogged the nozzle. I cleaned it, but any other filament I have would have similar problems from then on. After some days doing test prints, it clogged again. This time, I heated it up to 240 ºC, I unscrew the nozzle, cleaned it up, chopped the Capricorn tube (it had clear symptoms of a previous tube not reaching the bottom of the hotend and leaking material around it), perfectly aligned, cleaned the heating block with a brass brush, started screwing the nozzle… and it never reaches the end. It even jiggles a little bit (by "jiggles", I mean that when the hotend is hot, you can push the nozzle back and forth, and it does move... like it was a joint, and not a threaded bolt), like it was too small for the block. I try screwing a new nozzle. Same happens.
To me it looks like the heating block thread broke, but I can't be sure. I tried a thicker nozzle (0.8 mm, but same thread in the end) and it worked. I could feed filament and it wouldn't look like clogged (at least for 15 cm of feeding filament, when in previous cases it was almost instantaneous).
Time to get a new heating block? Any recommendation?
Would another kind of heating block be better?
Edit: Here's a picture of the bottom of the heating block. Now it's clear there's a metal chip glued with material, and almost (if any) no thread at all.
Another question. Could it have been that cheap material that caused the clogging, or was it just a lack of proper maintenance?
# Answer
> 1 votes
You need to order a new heating block (just a few bucks/euros, so order 2, and spare nozzles, you don't want to install the old nozzles), you completely worn out the threads, this is beyond repair. It looks as if you used too much force to secure the nozzle into place.
This is how it is supposed to look:
You can find these cheaply at those typical Chinese vending platforms or online marketplaces. Just search for and Ender / CR-10 heater block.
Typical dimensions are found below:
# Answer
> 1 votes
If the threads are damaged badly enough not to hold a nozzle rigidly, you should replace the heating block, but there might be hacks you could do to keep using it for a while until you're ready to replace. I've had luck replacing threads in completely unrelated applications with epoxy, and if you can get one that handles and transmits the heat well enough (maybe JB Weld? not sure) it might work here.
I don't think there's any indication you need to change to a different kind of heating block. That would only be indicated if there were lots of other people reporting the same problem you're having with your printer model or similar ones. It seems more likely that, if they're damaged, you just did it by over-tightening or over-vigorous cleaning with the brush.
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Tags: nozzle, creality-ender-5
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thread-13651 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13651 | Homing X and Y after stopping print through display | 2020-05-13T12:36:23.163 | # Question
Title: Homing X and Y after stopping print through display
How can I include homing X and Y of a Marlin firmware operating printer after I press the stop printing in the display?
In which folder I need include the command?
# Answer
> 1 votes
It's `EVENT_GCODE_SD_STOP` in the `configuration_adv.h` file.
It appears to have been added to Marlin 2.0.x on 2019-04-03.
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Tags: marlin, firmware
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thread-13660 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13660 | Can UV cure inside opaque or more massive printed object? | 2020-05-14T08:29:45.800 | # Question
Title: Can UV cure inside opaque or more massive printed object?
From what I understand, UV curing of resin prints works by starting a chemical reaction that hardens the resin permanently.
Also, a curing step after print is needed to speed up the print and also to reduce the curing during print, which would cure resin beyond the current layer.
However, what is the transmissivity of UV light in partially cured prints? If I print a more massive object, or if I use an opaque resin, how deep will the object harden properly? Absorption is always exponential, meaning that it decreases quickly with depth.
Depending on the resin, how thick prints can be effectively cured? This information is not provided with the resin, which I actually would expect from reputable manufacturers.
# Answer
## My background
I am not a polymer chemist. I know some, and I've talked about UV curing resins with them. These are my conclusions based on that informal education. Your expertise may well be better.
## Minimizing curing on the printer is good
For the maximum print rate and best layer adhesion, the resin should cure during the printing exposure the minimum amount that is consistent with the object supporting itself during the print, being removable from the bed, being rinsed in isopropyl alcohol, and stand on its own during curing.
If you are curing too completely during exposure, you won't get optimal mixing of polymer chains between layers. The layers will be attached by the glue-like action of the new layer on the old, rather than having their polymer chains cross-linked and extending between layers.
If you are curing too little, the object won't be strong enough to support itself and survive post-processing. Soft, gummy bits may dissolve, or be swept away by currents in the cleaning solution. Small details may not be robust enough. Supporting structures (as added supports or parts of the model) may not be strong enough to resist gravity and handling.
If you are curing too completely, your print will take longer than it could take.
## Curing is not binary
Curing will take place spontaneously over a long time. If it didn't, a bottle of resin might last a very long time. But, curing is not a self-catalyzing process that runs quickly to completion. If it were, then the first stray UV that came through an open bottle top would turn the contents solid. If exothermic (which it seems like it must be), the bottle would get hot.
## UV curing may fail
UV curing the inside of a large, opaque object probably doesn't happen. Before I get all excited, though, I would need to place some bounds on "large" and "opaque".
Absorption of UV light depends on the pigment or dye used in the resin. This absorption is never absolute. It is not 100% gone after the first, thinnest penetration. The light is attenuated by an amount per distance it penetrates.
Transmission is the complement of absorption, and the numbers are easier to work with, so lets work with transmission factors of T rather than absorbtion factors of A. $T=1-A$
If a factor of T is passed for millimeter, then one centimeter into the object the light intensity is $T^{10}$ of what it is on the surface, which is a small, but non-zero, number.
Keep in mind that opaqueness depends on wavelength. For example, Window glass is transparent (very little absorption) to visible light, but highly attenuating to UV light. Were I to design a black resin, I would look for a black pigment that was relatively transmissive to UV.
## Will it cure?
A low UV dose delivered to a 0.2mm layer of resin will partially cure the resin. 1 mm into an object, the dose is lower, but it still exists. 1 meter into the object, the absorption is probably too high pass a useful level of UV.
If the transmission factor is 0.8 for a 0.2 mm layer, it is $0.8^5$ for a 1 mm layer (0.33). It would take only three times as much UV exposure to cure a 1 mm thickness as a 0.2 mm thickness. If the object were 1 meter thick, the transmission to the inner bit would be $0.8^{5000}$, which is a very tiny number, roughly $2.82×10^{-485}$.
Finally, consider if the object is or must be truly be solid. UV curable resin is relatively expensive. Many UV printable objects include drainage paths for uncured resin to flow out of the object during printing. Perhaps your object could similarly be hollowed out.
> 1 votes
# Answer
From what I know about the various resins, once they are printed they are cured enough. Some of the transparent ones require additional curing, however the manufactures of the machines only test based on the max size that their machines can print.
The resin never stops curing apparently, going into diminishing returns; curing slower and slower as time goes on. Only way you will know for sure is by experimentation. You should get a poly-carbonate tube, place black tape along one side then spray paint the rest black. This will leave a window that you can use for future observation. Seal the bottom, and pour in uncured resin. Leave it under a UV source for 2 weeks then peal the tape off to see how much of it has cured. Then come back here and ask Trish to do the math on what the co-efficients of absorption are for the material :)
> 1 votes
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Tags: resin
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thread-13385 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13385 | Strange stringing-like activity when printing face shields | 2020-04-11T00:18:51.070 | # Question
Title: Strange stringing-like activity when printing face shields
I'm printing stacked Prusa COVID-19 face shields on a modded Ender 3. It works fairly well until the second layer of masks, where we get this weird effect that's kind of like stringing. It looks like the curve is becoming "low poly." I'm sorry that I can't be more specific, but I really don't know how to describe it more than this. Please look at the pictures to get more info.
One of the strangest things is that it worked earlier with the same slicer and the same profile. I am using PrusaSlicer, but I tried it with Cura and it still didn't work. There are a few more problems with the prints: some under-extrusion on the supports, and some spots had little gaps between the layers.
Does anyone have any fixes for any of these problems? I would mainly like to know about the strange kind of stringing because that actually prevents me from stacking prints.
I am printing Overture PETG at 240 on the nozzle and 80 on the bed. This is at a speed of 50 mm per second. I have the Basaraba Innovations direct drive mod, the Creality silent board with TH3D Unified Firmware based on Marlin 1.1.9, and the EZABL Pro.
Please look at the pictures to see what is happening.
# Answer
It turns out that the brand of PETG that I was using was not good for stacking prints. I tried another brand of PETG and it worked perfectly. Thank you for all of the suggestions of what could be the problem. If you are stacking face shields (or any other print), do not use Overture PETG.
> 1 votes
# Answer
This isn't stringing. It's failure to adhere to the previous layer, so tension in the newly extruded material just makes it form a straight line until it bonds to something again. Are you used to printing PETG? You didn't mention fan settings, but having any cooling fan at all will cause failure of layers to bond. Your print speed is borderline for PETG, especially if you're using thick layers like 0.3 mm which you also didn't mention but looks like might be the case.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, underextrusion
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thread-13615 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13615 | Extruder always clogs up almost immediately after cleaning | 2020-05-06T22:53:49.887 | # Question
Title: Extruder always clogs up almost immediately after cleaning
I have a very frustrating problem, my extruder clogs up pretty much immediately after cleaning it from the previous clog and I cannot figure out what the hell is going wrong.
I use a genuine E3D V6 in direct drive configuration (dual drive) and I print only PLA. I have tried many nozzle offsets from the bed but because I have to test so frequently I am just printing in the air for now.
This is what I tried:
* To print using the following temperatures: 200, 205, 210 and 220 °C
* Using different brands of PLA
* Lubricating filament
* Installing a filament dust cleaner
* Using both Bowden and direct configurations (my retraction setting for my direct drive setup is 0.8 mm, I am not sure what I used for the bowden but because the tube was fairly short it was probably around 3 mm. However I am not even printing I am simply running and stopping the extruder stepper, I am not using any retraction at all right now)
* Buying a brand new E3D V6
* Trying both 12 V and 24 V heat cartridges (with the respective power supplies of course)
* Checking the temperature with other sensors (yes the temperature is displayed correctly)
* Using acetone baths to clean all parts.
* Using stronger and weaker heat sink fans and fan options
* Push the filament manually
* Performing PID tunes
Even after all that the extruder clogs up usually mere seconds after it has been fully cleaned and inspected before being re-assembled. I make sure there is no bit of plastic or dust/dirt present before I re-assemble the extruder. I also hot tighten the nozzle but I also tried to run it without doing it but it made no difference.
I would love some help with this problem because I am pulling my hair out figuring out why this keeps happening.
# Answer
I have had one roll of filament that did this. I'd get a jam, clean it out, and immediately jam again.
I got the filament from a friend who had reported problems using it, but I thought, "I have a Prusa3D i3m3-mmu2, I can print with anything." Unfortunately, I could not.
I threw away the filament (first I've ever jetisoned so callously), replaced the nozzle, and was back in business.
So, some filament just doesn't work.
But, there is another possible problem to check -- you might have a problem with stepper driver. Even with low current from a blown driver or badly adjusted driver, the extruder motor may spin. It may even be able to extrude filament into the air through the hot nozzle. But, the torque may not be sufficient to force the molten plastic as it pushes against the build plate.
Pushing the molten plastic against the build plate so that it "smooshes" well requires pressure, which comes from the push on the filament from the extruder gear, which comes from the torque of the motor, which comes from the current from the driver, which may be either blown or seriously mal-adjusted.
> 2 votes
# Answer
It turned out that the stepper driver on my duet 2 wifi board is defective which resulted in the extruder motor being poorly controlled which in turn caused the clogs, using a different stepper driver fixed the issue.
I am a bit bummed out that one of my drivers turned out to be defective since the board has barely been used but at least I got my printer to work.
> 1 votes
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Tags: nozzle, e3d-v6
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thread-13637 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13637 | FLSUN QQ doesn't print and stops at Z=15 mm | 2020-05-10T12:08:36.423 | # Question
Title: FLSUN QQ doesn't print and stops at Z=15 mm
When I try to print something that is not the test model already on the SD, which means when I try to slice something in Cura 4 and than I start the print, the nozzle stops at Z=15 mm and only the extruder motor goes foward and backward. I tried to modify the G-code but I didn't solve the problem. I need help because it's my first delta 3D printer and I don't know what to do.
# Answer
A distance of 15 mm is about the height of the probe or Z-offset. That can be a clue.
Compare the G-code from the testprint with the G-code you sliced. It can give you other clues.
> 1 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, delta, flsun-qq
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thread-13656 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13656 | Still got poor printing quality after calibrating my Anycubic Predator | 2020-05-14T02:12:24.510 | # Question
Title: Still got poor printing quality after calibrating my Anycubic Predator
I've got an Anycubic Predator (aka Anycubic D). I followed the official instructions and leveled my printer.
The first annoying problem I ran into is that after the auto-leveling, the level test printing shows that the printer wasn't leveled at all. I tried about 4-5 times, and finally leveled the printer (I thought I just got lucky).
The second problem that isn't solved is that the prints I get are of poor quality. Shown in *figure 1* and *figure 2*. The cube should be 20x20x20 mm, but what I got here is 19.6(x) x 20.4(y) x 20.5(z) mm.
*Figure 1 - X-Y (side) view of calibration square*
*Figure 2 - Z (top) view of calibration square*
Does anyone have any idea about how to improve the printer's printing quality? Thanks in advance.
# Answer
> 1 votes
A few tenths of a millimeter are pretty common for 3D printed parts; these are related to the printer hardware. These inaccuracies can be exaggerated by over- or under-extrusion; e.g. if too much filament is extruded, it increases the outer dimensions (and decreases the inner dimensions of holes).
The images show some signs of over-extrusion, maybe a little too hot also.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I assume you just assembled it.
* Check the grub-screws in your pulleys at the top (remove blue covers). They are often too loose or even lost, causing a slipping belt.
* After that, check your belt-tension, not too loose not too tight and the same for the three towers.
* Also check that the wheels are not tightened too much.
It is actually best to break down the three towers and reassemble them carefully.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It might be a good idea to verify that there is a minimum amount of backlash in your system. With the hotend cold, home the printer, and then using your fingers try to move the effector in all six directions (up, left, right, forward, back) and note if there is any play. There should be as close to zero as possible.
If there is any play, then figure out where it is coming from. Check that the pulleys are firmly screwed to the motor shafts. Check that the carriages cannot wobble, and adjust the eccentric nuts if necessary. Check that the belts are reasonably tight and all have the same tension.
Usually the universal joints in the arms are OK on a new printer, but they tend to wear and become loose after a while.
Note: I build and sell replacement arms for the Anycubic Predator, which use zero-backlash, magnetic ball joints. I had this problem on my first printer, and magnetic ball joints solved it.
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Tags: print-quality, calibration, delta, anycubic-predator
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thread-13679 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13679 | Issues With Cura 4.6.1 Effecting Text Width On The Initial Layer | 2020-05-16T22:11:50.677 | # Question
Title: Issues With Cura 4.6.1 Effecting Text Width On The Initial Layer
I'm have an issue where Cura 4.6.1 is effecting the width of certain characters if the part is orented to print them on the the bottom. The initial layer seems to be the only layer that is effected. It is also only effects certain characters, in this case characters 4,6,8 and 9. Picture 1 shows the part oriented to print text on the bottom. Picture 2 shows the same part oriented where the text is on the top, which results in the text looking correct.
I have looked for the setting that causes this but, so far, have been unable to locate it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The Brim setting was causing the issue.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing
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thread-13678 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13678 | Use fixation holes instead heated bed | 2020-05-16T19:45:36.947 | # Question
Title: Use fixation holes instead heated bed
I think that heated bed have some disadvantages - they arent always reliable, they consume additional electrical power.
I can imagine one way how HB can be replaced - in some flat surface - glass or iron sheet we can drill some specific holes (probable a bit conic). Then, before detail printing start, printer could fill it with material and continue print detail connecting to these fixations. That can fixate detail in X,Y and probably even Z axis. After printing we can just take detail or cut fixations (if there were Z fixations)
I almost sure someone in industry already thought about this bud didnt release and I dont understand why. Defineteley there is pitfails, but I dont see them. Why this method cant be used to replace heated beds?
# Answer
I've used a 3D printer that had a perforated (and heated) bed for adhesion. It was some incarnation of the Up printer -- and this was several years ago (2014 or 2015) when 3D printing was very hyped but hadn't reached its present level of technological maturity.
(this was also before things like BuildTak and PEI sheet.)
The bed was made of a perforated fiberglass material similar to PCB boards (without soldermask or copper), black in color, and it was *terrible*. Prints were printed with a raft, which remained stuck to the bed holes and resisted all efforts to remove them short of a chisel or something similar, and before long all the bed plates (there were several) were marked and gouged from people trying to scrape plastic off of them. (they also warped).
I do not think that this is something we want to imitate, especially as it seems like Buildtak-like plastic coatings or glass work so well.
As to the use of holes *alone* to fix parts: They are going to be under stress, possibly too much shear stress for them to hold, you won't get the other benefits of heating, and you'll have trouble as you build upwards. For an extreme example, look at the difficulties of printing the insanely high temperature plastic PEEK, which basically requires not merely a heated bed but a heated chamber.
> 2 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, adhesion
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thread-13648 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13648 | How do I compress 3D files | 2020-05-12T20:38:33.183 | # Question
Title: How do I compress 3D files
I'm trying to compress different 3D files, but find it difficult to find the right software to compress the file.
What are the most suitable 3D file compressors to compress 3D files like STL, OBJ and STEP?
I have tried Draco, and mac zip compressor.
# Answer
> 2 votes
3D files differ greatly in size and what they contain:
# STL
STL Stereolithography files were invented by 3D Systems to store surfaces. Originally it used ASCII text to store information by naming triplets of vertex positions for each triangle (facet). Since that got too large, newer STL are Binary, which is quite smaller.
Many programs can export them, their size is dependant on the number of surfaces. You can reduce the size of an STL by lowering the number of surfaces at the cost of detail.
# OBJ
OBJ was invented by Wavefront as a means of storing 3D information. It stores the data as plain text by storing vertices, to which they connect and what texture is on surfaces spun up by the vertices.
In comparison to STL, they can be bigger if they include surface information. Programs that can't do STL usually support OBJ. Slicers take either. You can reduce the size of the file by reducing complexity.
# STEP
STEP files don't save 3D items per se, they store instructions for CAD programs to generate a 3D item. This makes them extremely information-dense and can create highly complex items with a somewhat minimum of file size. They also allow us to easily modify the file.
However, STEP files can't be sliced directly and need to be opened by a CAD program.
# Comparison
This is a simple object generated by a mere extrusion, rounding corners, extruding again and a sweep, then copying the item and moving it into position.
But how does that compare as STL and OBJ? Well, the results of this item are rather small in either case, but you get a rough gist of their general comparability.
The STL is 74.3 kB, STEP is 90 kB, OBJ is 95.4 kB.
However, in a maximum compressed `.zip` archive, things change a lot:
* STEP shrinks by 86 % to 13 kB
* OBJ by 84 % to 16 kB
* STL by a mere 73 % to 21 kB.
## Conclusion
STEP is the best to give out in a zip archive if you want others to edit it. OBJ is a tad smaller in a zip archive than STL, but also can contain additional data.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If a general-purpose compression tool using a good compression algorithm, such as 7zip or gzip (for linux and command line enthusiasts) is not providing good compression it is not likely that your files *can* be compressed very much.
This applies to a wide variety of binary files beyond just 3D print files. There is always a fundamental limit on compression (since it works by finding patterns and removing redundancy in files), and well-designed binary file formats generally can't be compressed very far.
You may however have some luck with changing the settings on your CAD tool to output less detailed files (though you this is obviously a tradeoff.)
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Tags: 3d-models, software, file-formats, open-source, obj
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thread-13686 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13686 | Can't print the top part of a circle | 2020-05-17T11:26:30.227 | # Question
Title: Can't print the top part of a circle
I'm trying to print the painter's tripod from this tutorial:
I can't get it to finish the print. It always fails towards the top when it's closing the circles. I've tried brims and even glue for adhesion, and different settings for inlays, perimeters, etc... my bed levelling is correct and my first layer is perfect. The prints come out beautiful, but they always fail there. I have a theory but since I don't have a camera set up I can't confirm, but I feel like the nozzle gets stuck against the previous layer, as if when it's coming from the other side of the "bridge" completing the upper layers of the circle, it get's to the other side of the gap and it finds that the filament has hardened just a bit higher than when it's going to print, and therefore knocks the piece to the side (despite using glue!!), and from that point on, obviously, total mess and I have to cancel. Just a theory though. Any ideas of what else could this be or what to do about it?
Printer is a Prusa i3 Mark3S
# Answer
> 3 votes
You are trying to print an unsupported edge up there - the top edge has nothing to rest on and thus sags down. As a result, the print failed.
To remedy this, activate printing with support. With a support angle of 80° or tree support, you could minimize the needed material.
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Tags: prusa-i3, print-failure
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thread-5251 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5251 | Under extrusion towards the end of the print | 2018-01-10T01:29:52.727 | # Question
Title: Under extrusion towards the end of the print
I have really strange problem. Thing is that my print (first layer) started ok, not good nor perfect but ok and everything was going well but then all of a sudden, near the end of a print, quality drops drastically. I'm not really sure but I think this happened because of under extrusion. I'm not so good with English so here are pictures of finished print and some more details.
I'm using custom build Delta printer with RepRap and Repetier firmware, CURA for slicing and Repetier-host for printing.
Slicing parameters in CURA are:
\- ABS 250 °C hotend and 70 °C heatbed
\- Layer height 0.2 mm (initial layer 0.18)
\- Printing speed 50 mm/s (30 mm/s outer walls)
\- Infill 40 %
\- Extrusion multiplayer 0.96 (96 %)
Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this?
# Answer
> 4 votes
> Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this?
At least judging from the pictures, that *does* seem like under-extrusion. Some ideas for further investigating the issue.
**The problem may be due to the gcode being wrong**. In this case, your printer is merely executing correctly... the wrong commands. To check if this is the case:
* The easiest, but inconclusive way, would be to re-slice a model that fails *consistently*, with a different slicer. If the second print came out good, than you would know that the problem is with the slicer. This method is *inconclusive* because you wouldn't not if the gcode is bad or if it simply happens that your printer cannot print well that specific sequence of commands (which may still be emitted by the other slicer under different conditions).
* The more conclusive analysis would be to look at the gcode of a failed print where the fail happens between two geometrical identical layers. This seem to be the case for the print in the picture, btw. You should then compare the gcode of the layer that printed good with that of the layer that printed poorly. If the gcode differs... then you positively know the slicer doesn't work as it should.
**The problem may be due to a mechanical fault with the printer**. Here the only idea I have to offer is overheating of the steppers and/or their controllers. This may in turn make the extruder servo skip some steps and therefore extrude less filament. If you perform the conclusive test above, you will know if this is the case.
**The problem may be due to a firmware bug**. This is difficult to investigate, my only suggestion would be: upgrade to the latest and greatest, if you haven't done it already.
**The problem may be filament-related**. This could be a number of things, but since the problem seems to happen at towards the end of the print, and your are printing at relatively high temp, an idea could be that too much heat reaches the cold end of the extruder, interfering with its extrusion. The easiest test here would simply be to re-print a failed print with a different filament. In your case I would suggest some PLA, just to decrease the temperature and change the chemical composition too.
These are more or less all shots in the dark, but - together with asking here - it would be what I would do to debug, had I the same problem. Keep up posted! :)
# Answer
> 2 votes
This doesn't look like a configuration error.
It seems very likely this is a partial hotend jam.
This happens sometimes because of stale filament but most often by not cooling down the heat sink (the part just over the heat break) enough which generates heat-creep, e.g heat creeps up through the filament, which eventually melts too early, creating a blob.
It's main characteristic is that at first the print is impeccable but after some amount of time, you get a complete jam or under extrusion.
This can be mitigated by higher print speeds, higher layers (so that the filament moves faster), printing at colder speed (if possible), lower retraction or usually completely solved with a fan cooling down the heat sink.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I had a similar problem with PLA after upgrading to all metal hotend. My printer was in a cabinet and after some time in print had the same problem (heat creep). In the end, it was resolved by turning bed off after first 3 layers and turning on a fan to keep the cabinet cool.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You can try to reduce your retractions (try setting it to half what it is now and try again)
If your retraction is too big you can pull hot plastic into the cold area of the hotend and create a partial clog - this happened to me yesterday when I tried to intentionally print with way too much retraction to make demonstration photos for the retraction test model I uploaded to thingiverse.
*note/disclaimer: that model I talked about above is here, I'm the author of that model*
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Tags: print-quality, reprap, extrusion, repetier, delta
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thread-13667 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13667 | Sketchup Free STL import in FreeCAD not working with Fasteners Workbench | 2020-05-15T06:14:30.823 | # Question
Title: Sketchup Free STL import in FreeCAD not working with Fasteners Workbench
Hoping to get some help with something I'm trying to accomplish. Unfortunately, due to my being a noob with 3D modeling in general, I'm coming here for hopefully more direct help.
```
Env. Details: OS: Windows 10
Word size of OS: 64-bit
Word size of FreeCAD: 64-bit
Version: 0.17.13541 (Git)
Build type: Release
Branch: releases/FreeCAD-0-17
Hash: 9948ee4f1570df9216862a79705afb367b2c6ffb
Python version: 2.7.14
Qt version: 4.8.7
Coin version: 4.0.0a
OCC version: 7.2.0
Locale: English/UnitedStates (en_US)
```
Essentially, I have a need to design some housing for a small electornics board. Due to the nature of 3D printing being less than ideal for bending/snapping locks, I've decided to use small screws to hold multiple layers of housing together.
SketchUp Free proved to be a super intuitive, easy to understand 3D modeling software, tho is limited in functionality due to paid tiers. Unfortunately, FreeCAD felt like a confusing cross between early 2000s Microsoft Paint and Eclipse (Java). However as the open source alternative, I understand it's incredibly powerful and can/should be able to do what most 3D modeling software is capable of, if you know how to use it properly - and that's where my lack of understanding shines through. Research into my use case revealed a plugin (Fasteners Workbench) which seemed purpose built for dealing with screws/threads, and I greatly prefer this approach due to being able to select standardized sizes.
On to the problem: I decided to sketch out the main design for the housing in Sketchup, and am happy with it, though I am missing the holes in the four corners. To add this, I decided to export the file from Sketchup as STL and import it to FreeCAD. Once in FreeCAD, I switched to the fasteners workbench and created a screwtap of arbitrary length. Now, from most tutorials I've watched, removing one piece from another is a boolean operation, often a cut or an intersection. However, when I highlight both the part object and the screwtap and select the CUT boolean operation, what I expect to happen (the screwtap was "cut" or carved out of the part object) did not.
I'm wondering if: \- My understanding of the boolean operation is wrong. There is a different function that is used for "boring" threaded holes? \- My process is wrong. Does exporting an STL from sketchup free not work for certain operations when importing to FreeCAD? \- My models are off. I have an understanding that "grouping" parts of models is big when putting a model together from parts, so as to simplify life. I'm wondering if it's also required in these cases? Attempting to do the boolean operation in sketchup failed but did require having grouped components. I'm not sure this is the case in FreeCAD, or if I'm already doing this?
Would appreciate any help with this. Attaching the FreeCAD file here.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Stls may not properly import as solids. This is likely what is happening in your case. Stl format is ultimately just a bunch of triangles without a proper definition of a solid. The boolean Difference found faces to attach to the circle so it used them. The trouble is, there were even more faces at the same location (not uncommon).
You could manually delete and repatch the triangles in Mesh Design or if the shape is simple enough (I think your box fits the bill), redraw it. I don't know how far sketchup has come with file formats, but a different format may convey your solid better between software.
That said, in your shoes, I'd be making cylindrical and hexagonal cutouts and gluing a nut into my part.
# Answer
> 1 votes
There are a number of steps to importing an STL file into FreeCAD and being able to use it. This page discusses this in detail, but to summarize:
1. Import the STL
2. In the Part workbench, use **Create shape from mesh**.
3. Use the Advanced utility and select **Solid from shell**.
Now I will tell you from personal experience, you still may not be able to what you want to do. FreeCAD really isn't designed to work on STL files and really isn't the right choice.
Good luck.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have been down that road with FreeCAD and STL files and never ever succeeded. I actually use Prusa Slic3r whenever I need to edit STL files such as resize, cut or split and object.
That said, FreeCAD is extremely powerful when you learn how to use it. It took me several months to get a good workflow with part design and the ability to write scripts/tools with Python opens up a lot of possibilities to automate various tasks, especially when interacting with 3D printing software.
I would recommend starting with some tutorials in using part design and the sketcher. Your design is very easy to redo in FreeCAD and if you are making many different enclosures, all dimensions can be put in a spread sheet inside the FreeCAD project and referenced wherever a numerical constraint/constant is used.
That makes it very easy to parameterize a design so it can be reused in various projects. I have for example a parameterized thread that I use to print parts that can be screwed together with printed threads or using standard M-thread screws directly in holes with printed threads.
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Tags: stl, freecad, sketchup
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thread-13695 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13695 | Paper as build surface - how will that work? | 2020-05-18T23:31:20.633 | # Question
Title: Paper as build surface - how will that work?
I have a Creality Ender 3 that needs a build surface (both the build-tak sticker and the removable stiff backer). My dad has been pestering me to try using paper as a disposable surface. I am hesitant to do so for concerns regarding fires and degrading the bottom of the print. Has anyone here tried this and what were the results?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Blue masking tape is a common bed surface, especially for unheated beds. It is effectively an adhesive applied to a paper, although I suspect the paper is treated in some manner to serve as a barrier to paint, as the blue tape is sold as paint masking tape.
A sheet of ordinary paper isn't likely to catch fire, as the bed temperature will not reach combustion temperature for paper (more than 230 °C), but you still have to have the means of providing adhesion of the paper to the bed.
A thick enough weight of paper may provide sufficient rigidity to provide for a stable print surface, if the perimeter is well secured and uniformly (smoothly) attached.
You'll have to experiment with various types of paper surfaces as well, as some may be treated (calendared) during manufacturing, which could affect the results.
Blue tape is your best bet if you want disposable. Also if you use care in removal, it is not a single use bed covering.
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Tags: material, safety, build-surface
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thread-13699 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13699 | What hotend designs exist as paired all-metal and PTFE-lined versions? | 2020-05-19T08:03:00.753 | # Question
Title: What hotend designs exist as paired all-metal and PTFE-lined versions?
I know that the E3D V6 hotend exists in both the all-metal V6 version, and the PTFE-lined Lite6 version with the same mount and form factor.
What other hotend designs are available like this?
# Answer
> 3 votes
# Hotend Designes in General
## Lined
### Makerbot Mk8 & e3D Lite6
The Makerbot Mk8 seen on many Chinese machines and the E3D Lite6 are both lined hotends, which means the PTFE liner goes down into the heartbreak and butts against the nozzle. This style is very easy to print PLA with, but can't print hotter than about 240 °C.
### Makerbot MK10
A variant of the lined hotend is the Makerbot MK10, where the PTFE goes a bit into the nozzle. These nozzles have a larger diameter, the melt zone is very short.
## All Metal
There are mainly two designs of consumer all-metal hotend out there at the moment.
### E3D v6
Stereotypical by now, the All Metal hotend typically means E3D v6. The liner ends at the end of the heartbreak, the heartbreak of the original is necked down to reduce heat creep. The design is flawed in that heat creep can't be mitigated completely. While this design can print much higher temperatures than lined hotends, the heat creep can create trouble with PLA.
### E3D Hemera
The dreamchild of the v6 is the Hemera (formerly Hermes), which fights the problem of heat creep by drastically altering the coolend design: The heartbreak is even slimmer than the v6 and has very little area outside of the cooling block. This cooling block is fitted with a somewhat stronger fan. In theory this leads to much better cooling in the upper filament path and getting heat creep under control. However, due to the manufacturing stop induced by COVID-19, there are not too many Hemera out in the wild. Some early to mid development information could be gained from Joel and Thomas Sanladerer.
Among the still few reviews I have found is Thomas Sanladerer.
## Slice Engineering Mosquito Hotend
Slice engineering went a different way to fight heatcreep in an unined all metal hotend: The heatsink is mode away from the filament path and serves as its own structure. As a downsize, each and every part is pretty much precision machined, making it comparably expensive: without heater, thermosensor, and extruder the bare item clocks in 145$. Claimed benefits are, that the thinner filament path (as it doesn't need to be structural) from a low heat-conducting material reduces heat creep and because we have an unlined filament path it can print at 450 °C, making it one o the highest-rated hotends.
### Slice Engineering Copperhead
Currently, the same company is working on the Copperhead, in which they introduce a dual metal construction on necked heatbreak. The name Bi-Metal for this however would be a misnomer: Bimetal is a standing technical term for a strip of metals that, when heated, starts to tilt into one direction because of dissimilar heat expansion. The correct term, which they properly use on their website is **Bimetallic**, not Bimetal.
Because of the dissimilar thermal behavior, such a setup needs to be designed and machined very carefully, but could, help to dissipate the heat from the filament path and massively reduce heatcreep. The Copperhead as shown currently is offered for preorder with two mounting options, one of them the e3D style groove., which might allow drop-in replacement of a full hotend.
The heartbreak however alone could suffice to get some of the effects, and as the website shows, it would be available as a drop-in replacement part. **However, pricing and effectivity remain still to be seen.**
# Paired?!
At the time of this writing in May 2020, the combination of e3D v6 and Lite6 using the same outer form factor is pretty much unique to them and their clones. The Trianglelab Dragon hotend (a review of it here) uses the e3D v6 Style connector on a Slice Enginering Mosquito Hotend design, making it pretty much paired to the two.
*However* the main functioning parts of the distinction is the heartbreak being either part of the cooling body and lined or a separate piece. The e3D v6 does use the same M6 threading that is also used in a Makerbot Mk8 and many Chinese clones on many machines \[Some are M7, so beware!\], and thus one can easily make a Frankenstein Hotend by combining the pre-mounted cooling body with a proper e3D v6 heartbreak and turn the lined into an All Metal hotend.
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Tags: hotend, printer-building
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thread-13702 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13702 | How to resume an unfinished project? | 2020-05-19T11:14:17.087 | # Question
Title: How to resume an unfinished project?
I was printing a lid for a box in my Ender 3 pro printer. But I don't know why it stopped printing and moved aside when it does in finished printings. This happened at midnight and I didn't see it until I woke up. In the hope for a resume I didn't remove the finished part from the printer bed. So now how can I resume this printing from where it left. The total width of the lid was 3 mm and it printed 2.4 mm now only 0.6 mm part left to print.
# Answer
Provided that the print hasn't come loose from the bed and you know the layer height or layer number (you could count the amount of layers or measure the height of the print using a caliper), you can edit the original G-code file to print the remainder of the print. The following hints should be taken into account:
* Don't use `G28` or `G29` instead use `G28 X Y` (please note that using `G28` or `G28 Z` to home Z as well, may not work if the print is blocking the homing of Z, e.g. when homing in the center of the build plate)
* Manually position the printhead at the correct Z height (place the cold nozzle on top of your failed print when the steppers are not powered, you could leave a paper thickness of a gap in between the nozzle and the print) and instruct the printer to use that height for reference: e.g. when the print stopped at layer 12 with a 0.2 mm layer height (2.4 mm height or use the measured height with a caliper) define `G92 Z2.4`
* Make sure the hotend is primed before resuming printing
* Cut all the G-code present in the file prior to the layer you want to start printing (e.g. search for `G1 Z2.2`), but do add bed and hotend heating, e.g. respectively `M190 S60` and `M109 S200`
What you can also do is:
* Reprint the whole print
* Re-slice the print where you have sunk the print 2.4 mm into the bed in the slicer just printing the top face which you glue on later (this works only if the print is exactly at the same position as the initial slice, preferable the project was saved in the slicer or the default position after inserting the print object is used, note that this is difficult to reproduce when multiple objects were place on the bed, it would be better to edit the existing G-code instead!).
*Note that you will always see a difference in appearance compared to an object printed in one session, you will see an interface line between the first and the second part.*
> 6 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, g-code, slicing
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thread-13698 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13698 | All-metal hotends are less forgiving / not as good for PLA -- but how bad? | 2020-05-19T07:11:15.517 | # Question
Title: All-metal hotends are less forgiving / not as good for PLA -- but how bad?
Currently, I'm using a Creality printer to print PLA (that's what I have on hand) but I'm definitely interested in working with other materials that require higher temperatures (both much higher, and just enough higher that the stock hotend is very marginal) in the future.
I understand that all-metal hotends are less forgiving and that they particularly are not the best for printing PLA, and shouldn't be assumed to be an upgrade when only printing PLA.
What I don't understand is, *how bad are they?* Are they so bad that I should plan on changing back to a PTFE hotend whenever I print PLA or ABS? Or are they suitable for use on a printer that is sometimes used for printing PLA and ABS and sometimes printing high-temp filaments?
# Answer
> All-metal hotends are less forgiving
Yes
> not as good for PLA
No
> but how bad?
That is very subjective and totally depending on the skill of the 3D printer operator! So, that part of the question cannot be answered.
Fact is that all-metal hotends are sold as being upgrades to lined versions, this is simply not true. It is a different design that can handle higher temperatures. To operate such hotends you require a little more experience as these hotends are a little less forgiving if you do not have the right slicer settings. Key parameters are hotend temperature, cold end cooling and retraction speed and length and amount of retractions in the model.
Another fact is that e.g. the Ultimaker cores concept (we opened a 0.4 mm core to see that for ourselves) doesn't use a PTFE lining, nor do other brands. They can perfectly print PLA (even with a high retraction length). The only time if failed printing PETG (higher temp than PLA) was the result of a heat creep induced clog which was caused by a cooling fan failure (the cooling fan ingested something and seized up), so just one print of a few meters of the several kilometers 2.85 mm that got printed.
> 3 votes
# Answer
> Are they so bad I should plan on changing back to a PTFE hot end?
No, all metal hot end are not that bad, and may even be beneficial when printing at higher temperatures. You mentioned that you want to print ABS and other such materials. At temperatures this high, my understanding is that the PTFE tube in the hot end may melt, or at least become so damaged that the hot end is blocked, leading to needing to replace the tube. My first 3D printer used a PTFE ho tend, which due to the printing temperatures I was using, and lack of knowledge of the many types of hot end, the tube got damaged after about 2/5 hours, leading to me needing to replace the tube. I eventually sent the printer back, got my money back and got a printer with an all metal hot end. That has never failed me in hundreds of hours of printing.
> Are not the best for printing PLA
I have never had a problem printing PLA with an all metal hot end, however if you are printing just PLA, a PTFE hot end would be just fine, although not as versatile if you wanted to try different materials in the future.
**In Summary:**
Provided you print fast enough (I regularly print at 60 mm/s) to ensure that no filament cools down in the hot end you should be fine.
> 1 votes
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Tags: hotend, all-metal-hotend
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thread-13457 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13457 | PLA Issue printing first 3 mm with Ender 3 Pro | 2020-04-19T09:57:07.323 | # Question
Title: PLA Issue printing first 3 mm with Ender 3 Pro
I´ve tried tunning printer settings with different Nozzle(190-210 ºC)/ Bed(0-60 ºC) Temperatures, Fan Speeds (0-100 %), Cura and Slicer adjustemens but nothing worked. I still get the same bubbles in the first 3 mm of every print. I also tried a glass bed and the magnetic bed that comes with Ender 3 pro and the result is still the same. The last thing I tried was moving the 0 position of the Z axis 10 mm up, but it didn´work.
What else could I try? Any idea of which could be the issue. Thanks in advance.
# Answer
This answer hints to the correct diagnosis but doesn't explain how to fix this in Cura or any other solution other than babysteps. You don't want to adjust babysteps at every print...
Basically, your nozzle is too close to the bed (from comment 0.1 mm to be exact). To increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed you can:
* level with a little thicker paper,
* move the bed down on all corners,
* move the Z endstop up,
* redefine the Z=0 in your start code,
`G1 Z0.1 ; Move to 0.1 mm height`
`G92 Z0 ; Redefine zero height`
* install Cura plugin "Z Offset Setting" from fieldOfView (through the Cura Marketplace) and define a `Z Offset` of 0.1 mm, and/or
* increase the first layer height a little.
> 4 votes
# Answer
It seems like your bed might be too close to the nozzle, hence the large elephants foot (bulge on the first layer). You can try using babystep Z to increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed and see how that works out. I think you might need to reduce the flow multiplier (extrusion multiplier) a little too.
> 3 votes
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Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, diy-3d-printer
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thread-13705 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13705 | Adding custom M or G codes to Marlin 2.0 | 2020-05-19T17:25:33.937 | # Question
Title: Adding custom M or G codes to Marlin 2.0
Adding custom M Codes to Marlin doesn't work for Marlin 2.0
How would one go about adding custom G codes or M Codes to Marlin 2.0? The Marlin\_main.cpp file does not exist.
In general for Marlin 2.0, things are organized better, but split into more files.
# Answer
0. Choose a code in the \>10,000 in case new codes are added. But in this example I will choose 13
1. Navigate to 'src' folder of Marlin
2. Edit the file `gcode.cpp` around line 223 to have a new unused number. For example, this will create a new G code function for the label `G13`.
```
...
// Handle a known G, M, or T
switch (parser.command_letter) {
case 'G': switch (parser.codenum) {
case 13: G13(); break;
case 0: case 1: G0_G1(
...
```
3. On line 375 of `gcode.h` add: `static void G13();` to declare it.
4. In my case i was reading values from an analog system. So I went to `src/temperatures` and copied `M105.cpp` to be `G13.cpp`. Then inside the file I replaced `GcodeSuite::M105` to be `GcodeSuite::G13`. I am using this to take in the weight of something using a \[scale\]\[1\] but for now I just want to test functionality so here is my test function:
```
void GcodeSuite::G13() {
SERIAL_ECHOPGM(MSG_OK);
SERIAL_ECHOLNPGM("here is where weights are broadcast");
}
```
And again this is the only part I changed in my new copy of M105.cpp (a new file named G13.cpp). There is still more stuff in the file than just these few lines.
5. Upload to board
6. When going to octoprint and typing in `G13` I get:
```
Send: G13
Recv: okhere is where weights are broadcast
```
A bit more work can be done to make it look nice, but this was the hard part. \[1\]: https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bathroom-Scale-With-50-Kg-Load-Cells-and-H/
> 0 votes
# Answer
The code in 2.0.x is similar to the old branch 1.1.x, G-code is parsed in `gcode.cpp`, specifically in `process_parsed_command`:
```
void GcodeSuite::process_parsed_command(const bool no_ok/*=false*/)
```
In the case statement the codes read from the G-code files are parsed (interpreted) and the appropriate method is called (e.g. `G28()` calls `void GcodeSuite::G28()`)
If you want to create your own codes, it could be an idea to start there. Also think of using a different letter and/or codes in the 10,000 range so that it will not collide with new implemented G-codes.
> 2 votes
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Tags: marlin
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thread-13722 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13722 | Extruder spins for a few seconds after layer changes | 2020-05-21T13:51:39.333 | # Question
Title: Extruder spins for a few seconds after layer changes
Sometimes my Extruder will start spinning pointlessly fast and long.
Youtube Video showing the problem
This Issue only happens:
* When printer has finished a Layer and moved up to the next (right after the Z axis has moved)
* Not on all, but only on some layers of a print.
Typically it will be more towards the middle of a print, and it will happen on several (maybe 10, 20, or a lot more) consecutive layers
My regular Setup/Stack:
* PrusaSlicer-2.0.0+win64-201905201652
* Octoprint (Version 1.4.0)
* Tevo Tornado (with Mamorubot print-platform)
I have tried to test whether the source of the problem could be Octoprint or the slicer/gcode.
**Octoprint:**
The problem persists, when i print directly from SD
**slicer/gcode:**
Here is some gcode, one of a layer change where the problem did occur and one where it was fine: Problem occured here:
```
G1 X167.854 Y170.305 E209.95401
G1 X167.851 Y132.289 E210.24063
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
G92 E0.0
;3.95
G1 Z3.950 F7800.000
;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE
;3.95
G1 X168.141 Y131.859
G1 F3600
G1 X129.532 Y131.858 E211.24663
G1 X128.945 Y131.592 E211.26340
G1 X128.419 Y131.004 E211.28396
```
No Problem occured here:
```
G1 X168.288 Y170.558 E474.06508
G1 X168.224 Y170.259 E474.06950
G1 X168.213 Y131.857 E474.62495
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
G92 E0.0
;9.8
G1 Z9.800 F7800.000
;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE
;9.8
G1 X168.559 Y131.441
G1 F3600
G1 X129.622 Y131.440 E475.63947
G1 X129.198 Y131.248 E475.65161
G1 X128.776 Y130.777 E475.66807
```
I cannot see any problem with the gcode.
Now I am at my wits' end - what could be the source of the problem, and how to I proceed to debug it?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Doing some googling, it looks like the `BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE` comment in the G-code and stuff that follow come from the `before_layer_gcode` setting in your PrusaSlicer profile. Somehow, `G92 E0.0` got in there. Remove it and the problem should go away.
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Tags: extruder, g-code, tevo-tornado
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thread-13723 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13723 | Access uncapped 5 V output on 3D printer controller board | 2020-05-21T18:00:03.323 | # Question
Title: Access uncapped 5 V output on 3D printer controller board
Typically in Arduinos, most of the 5 V outputs that have a limited amount of current (40 mA).
Are there any 3D printer boards, or is there even a more usual spot, where you can get a 5 V output that isn't capped by the microcontroller?
I know that USB 2.0 is (typically) limited to 500 mA especally when connected to a laptop. Just wondering if there was a way to for e.g. get a 200 mA output from one of the 5 V pins, or more if there is a stronger power supply connected to the USB port.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Any pin that is labeled as "5 V" can supply the full amount of current. Looking at, for example, the Arduino MEGA pinout, we can see several pins labeled in red with "5 V". These are the pins you can use. Most 3D printer boards will expose the 5 V pins at several points. For example, the endstop connectors often have a 5 V pin that can be used.
The pins that are limited to 40 mA that you are thinking of are the digital pins, i.e. the pins that can be switched on/off by the microcontroller. These are actually more limited than this, and while in some cases drawing 40 mA from them may be possible, it is not a good idea.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Any 5 V "output" on those main boards would be used to power a USB host. This is because the electronics actually runs on 3.3 volts. It would be better to splice the input power (the 12 to 24 V) and use a buck converter to get down to your required 5 V. Select the right one, and you can have all the current you need.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, electronics
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thread-9991 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9991 | Material for autoclave-able part | 2019-05-20T22:21:36.067 | # Question
Title: Material for autoclave-able part
I’m designing a part that will need to be autoclaved—it will be under steam at 121°C for about 15 min per job and I will want it to be able to go through the autoclave repeatedly. I ran a test PLA part through the autoclave and it warped noticeably; based on their glass transition temperatures, ABS (105ºC) and PETG (80ºC) would probably also not hold up. For a consumer-grade FDM printer, what filament materials that could be used for parts that could be autoclaved?
# Answer
> 7 votes
It might seem that common 3D printer materials such as PLA and ABS should be capable of being autoclaved—unfortunately. However, although their melting temperatures are higher than autoclave temperature (typically 121ºC), their glass transition temperatures are below that limit so they can warp or undergo creep deformation.
Sterilization of numerous plastics is described here, with PLA, ABS, and PET all being described as "poor" for autoclaving. For each "good" material on that list, I looked for filament by Googling and consulting material guides from Prusa and Matter Hackers.
Polypropylene (PP) or acetal (POM, also known as Delrin) are the best choices. Filament is available for PEEK, PEI (ULTEM), FEP, PPSU, and PPS but these filaments are expensive (\>$100/kg) and require high extruder temperatures (\>300ºC).
In contrast, PP is about $50/kg and uses an extruder temperature of 254ºC; POM is similarly priced and uses an extruder temperature of 210ºC. Nylon (depending on the exact type) and HT-PLA may also be worth considering.
"High temperature" filaments are not worthwhile for this application. Again, they're expensive and, more significantly, do not work well with consumer-grade 3D printers. For example, the upper limit for a Prusa i3 MK3s is about 280ºC—the thermistor only is good up to that temperature. Higher temperatures would require swapping out sensors and modifying firmware and building an enclosure. It's been done. Printers designed for high-temperature filaments easily cost thousands of dollars.
This question was previously asked on Reddit a few times but this analysis is more comprehensive.
# Answer
> -2 votes
You need to order the part printed by an SLA machine in PA, preferably with 10 % mineral or glass content. The heat deflection temperature is suitably high for any autoclaving you'll do, and the material will resist most every that your lab and throw at it. I also went down this road with a part for my own lab and found no reasonable solution from a consumer level FDM printer.
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Tags: filament-choice
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thread-13727 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13727 | Can't create image to G-code software for CNC to process | 2020-05-22T15:21:48.693 | # Question
Title: Can't create image to G-code software for CNC to process
For the last 3 months I have been working on a CNC drawing machine but to this day I can't get the algorithm for line detection so I came here.
I can't understand only one part and it is CAM the (image to G-code) so I'd be grateful if someone could help.
(I want to create my own software not use any modules)
# Answer
Generally, movement in a CNC, FDM-Printer, laser cutter, and Plotter has the XY plane decoupled from the Z-axis in most operations. As a result, the path in the XY plane is in 2D. But how to get to a path? Well, we have 2 variants:
# Pixel
Most pictures store information as Pixels: each pixel on a grid has a color assigned to it. Scaling the picture does alter the grid size. These pictures are very hard to plot, unless you have your machine interpret each pixel of a given color as a specific movement operation. For example, each pixel of black color in a monochrome picture could be translated as a square-movement of a certain size, using the **top-left** corner of the square for the operation's reference. In G-code, drawing a line around the Pixel X=10 Y=10 with a grid size of 1 mm looks like this:
```
G90 ; absolute mode!
G1 X10 Y10
G1 X1 E1
G1 Y1 E1
G1 X-1 E1
G1 Y-1 E1
```
# Vector
proper 2D-Pathes are stored only in Vector graphics. If you can, Vector graphics can contain the exact path you want your machine to follow. A typical format is `.svg`. It contains already the start position of path and how to follow it. Going from Vector Graphic to G-code just needs you to add G1 before each part of the path instruction and E commands at the end to operate whatever tool you due - be it spinning the drill in a CNC, extruding filament in a printer, turning on a laser or pushing down the printhead in a plotter.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: cnc, python, 2d
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thread-13691 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13691 | PID autotune fails with a temp too high | 2020-05-18T00:57:59.173 | # Question
Title: PID autotune fails with a temp too high
Working on upgrading my Ender 3 to a dual extruder setup using the Winsinn dual hot end and MKS Base V1.6 motherboard using Marlin FW 2.0.5 and am unable to get the PID autotune to work. When I start the autotune, the temperature spikes pretty quickly and quickly fails, either heating to 60 °C or 200 °C (`M303 C5 E0 S60`) for either hot end (E0 or E1). After looking through other online messages, I used 24 V heater cartridges rather than the 12 V ones that came with the hot end. Aditionally, I have the thermisistor settings to use config 6 (rather than 1) after reading through user recommendations on the hot end. After failing to get the hotend to heat properly, I have the following questions:
1. Should I try reducing the current to the cartridge? Currently set to default of 255?
2. Are there any other PID changes I should make to allow the autotune to figure out the right parameters to use?
3. Are there any other tests recommended to figure out why the hot end heats without being stopped by Marlin?
Here is a chart showing the temperatures of the hotends and bed while running autotune on T0 and T1. Weird gap in second attempt was verifying that the right sensor was plugged into the right mainboard pin (no power going to hot end at this time).
Thermistor settings:
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 6
```
# Answer
> 3 votes
As the heating curve is very steep, it could be that the wrong cartridges are inserted, or you have been supplied the incorrect cartridges. *(Not long ago I've had a similar experience with a 12 V cartridge in between my 24 V spares...)*
To find out for which voltage the cartridge has to be used you can measure the resistance with a multitester/multimeter. You can calculate the resistance roughly by using the formulas: $$ U = I \times R$$ $$ P = {U}\times{I} $$ Combing these formulas gives: $$ R = \frac{U^2}{P}$$
(P is power in Watt \[W\], I is current \[A\], U is voltage \[V\] and R is the resistance in Ohm \[Ω\])
Your multimeter readings should be close to the calculated values. About 4 Ohms for a 12 V/40 W cartridge and about 14 Ohms for a 24 V/40 W cartridge.
Since the Ender 3 is running on 24 V, you need the higher resistance cartridges.
---
If you are using a 4 Ω (12 V/40 W) cartridge on 24 V, the power would become:
$$ P = \frac{U^2}{R}= \frac{24^2}{4}=144\ {W} $$
This amount of power will quickly raise the temperature of the nozzle! It then becomes very difficult for the PID control schedule to harness that power (e.g. overshoot control).
From the question is read that:
> I used 24 V heater cartridges rather than the 12 V ones that came with the hot end
If the cartridges are truly 24 V this rapid heat-up is not expected, it could be that you accidentally received incorrect cartridges, you should measure the resistance to be sure.
---
Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3, hotend, pid
--- |
thread-13638 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13638 | Dots in Cura on Prepare-mode | 2020-05-10T20:19:32.777 | # Question
Title: Dots in Cura on Prepare-mode
When I load a figure in Cura 4.6.1 I get weird dots all over my figure in `Prepare`-mode.
How come, and can I turn it off?
It's on every model I load :( I am fairly sure the normals are facing the correct way as well.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Solution found!
If `Display model errors` is disabled, the dots appears. Check the setting, hit `OK`, click on the box and they disappear.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-13745 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13745 | How to add a proper fillet to corner of a cuboid in Fusion 360? | 2020-05-25T13:15:45.713 | # Question
Title: How to add a proper fillet to corner of a cuboid in Fusion 360?
I am a total beginner to Fusion 360. I need to add a fillet. Look at the picture to get better idea.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There are probably many ways to do this, this method describes how I do this.
First you need to `fillet` the top, then you `chamfer` the edges.
Create a lid:
Fillet the corner edges:
Chamfer the lid edges:
---
Tags: fusion360
--- |
thread-12098 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12098 | Printer inverted Y-axis | 2020-02-28T19:32:16.187 | # Question
Title: Printer inverted Y-axis
I made a custom printer with RAMPS. I used Y-MIN endstop at beginning. After few prints I discovered that Y-axis was inverted (mirrored).
I fixed Marlin firmware and now I have:
```
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
```
I also connected the Y-endstop to Y-max pin on RAMPS.
Now the printer homing in the same direction than before (in front) and the y-endstop works as expected.
If I try to start printing or if I try to press the "center" button in Pronterface, the Y-axis moves in the wrong direction.
Can someone help me?
# Answer
> 3 votes
This blog post shows 3 main solutions:
1. Flipping the motor cables (As suggested in the other answer)
2. Switching the x and y-axis: This may switch the direction of your y-axis depending on the way your printer is setup)
3. Change the direction of the axis in firmware which you can see below how to do:
> "When the solution opens up, you will see many different files open. You need to navigate to the Configuration.h file. Within this file scroll down to the following lines of code:"
```
// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
define INVERT_X_DIR true
define INVERT_Y_DIR true
define INVERT_Z_DIR true
```
> "This is where you need to switch the values around. If they are currently true, change them to false and if they are false, change them to true. Due to the fact I was having issues with my x-Axis, I have changed the above to the following:"
```
// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
define INVERT_X_DIR false
define INVERT_Y_DIR true
define INVERT_Z_DIR true
```
# Answer
> 1 votes
Usually I just flip the connector around on the board. This causes the stepper to reverse without fiddling around with firmware.
---
Tags: marlin, diy-3d-printer, pronterface
--- |
thread-13748 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13748 | Auto bed leveling offset issue | 2020-05-25T19:17:55.043 | # Question
Title: Auto bed leveling offset issue
I'm using an Ender 3 with a new upgraded board SKR 1.3 Marlin bugfix 2.0 auto bed leveling I use EZABL.
for the EZABL I followed their tutorial for Marlin 2.0 since I don't use the unified firmware.
Offset info :
`#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 50, -2, 0 }`
`#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 20`
I did try to follow this helpful guide
I don't know much about programming so when he said:
> "As this is the part that defines the array values, you first need to make an array (note that this is a simple solution that many people should be able to understand with limited programming skills, more elegant solutions use the XYZ struct to access the X, Y or Z properties):"
`constexpr int nozzle_to_probe_offset[] = NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET;`
`#define PROBE_X_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[0]`
`#define PROBE_Y_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[1]`
I don't understand where to put the lines above and what value to put.
update: error message on compiling Config.h : https://pastebin.com/w7CC5eaC Config\_adv.h : https://pastebin.com/qep34T1h
# Answer
> 0 votes
You do not need to adjust the area yourself for Marlin 2.0, please look into probe.h and into this answer.
You only need to enable the offsets:
```
#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#endif
```
---
Tags: marlin, skr-v1.3, ezabl
--- |
thread-13750 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13750 | Disable Marlin PID, and start print manual | 2020-05-26T01:12:58.340 | # Question
Title: Disable Marlin PID, and start print manual
The thermistor of the hotend of my printer broke, at the moment I have no way to replace it, due to the global situation with the virus. In my hands I have one of these industrial PIDs which is Temperature controller+K-type couple+SSR. Is there a way to disable the PID in Marlin and start printing manually when the PID reaches the desired temperature? I just need it for PLA right now. This way I can use the printer at least until I can replace the thermistor
# Answer
> 1 votes
You can edit the temperature control commands out of your gcode, or just tell your slicer to omit them, typically by setting temperature to 0. Then, as you suggested, start the print manually once your industrial PID tells you it's at-temperature.
---
Tags: marlin, thermistor, pid
--- |
thread-13761 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13761 | Issue with the new heating cartridge of my 3D printer | 2020-05-27T08:10:45.413 | # Question
Title: Issue with the new heating cartridge of my 3D printer
Recently I had an issue with my heating cartridge, and I decided to change it.
For my Anet A8, I needed a **12 V 40 W** one. I ordered it but I received a **15 mm length** instead of **20 mm length** heater element, but as the characteristics where the same I thought that it should not be an issue!
When I finally tried it, it was not able to reach the commanded temperature. It's like **175 °C** instead of **195 °C**.
I don't understand why it's harder for the newer heating cartridge to reach the commanded temperature, is the length important even if it's the same power (12 V and 40 W) ?
# Answer
> 1 votes
If it is 40 W then it shouldn't matter what length it is. Note that the heater cartridge just contains a Nickel-Chrome wire-resistor (see image below for the construction), this resistor gives its heat to the metallic shell, the length of that shell shouldn't matter, it usually contains heat free/colder zones at the tip and root. Even if it is a 30 W heater cartridge it should be able to get to temperature, it would just take longer.
If it is a 24 V, 40 W cartridge, operating at 12 V, then the effective power would be $40\[V\] \times \frac{12\[V\]^2}{24\[V\]^2}=10 \[W\]$. This might be too low to reach the temperature. It is best to check the resistance of the heater element with a multitester; it should be about 4 Ω for a 12 V heater cartridge and about 14 Ω for a 24 V heater cartridge.
---
Tags: hotend, anet-a8, heat-management
--- |
thread-13767 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13767 | DRM or license management solution for 3D printing | 2020-05-28T10:58:44.477 | # Question
Title: DRM or license management solution for 3D printing
Is there any DRM or license management solution for 3D printing? I'm looking for something, that would help me limit the number of prints someone can make from my projects. Basically, I would like to sell the "right to make no more than X copies" of my design. I don't expect it to be bullet-proof (like Widevine L1 for video), but it should at least help me with license management.
# Answer
Good luck with that.
Issues you will face:
* using a G-code editor (or built-in printer software) to create multiple copies of the object in a single print session
* user writing the printer file to an SD card, then block-copying the SD card
* defining a "print". Specifically:
* is #2 another functional copy of the object, or did #1 fail? Failed prints happen a lot.
* is #3 another functional copy of the object, or was #2 damaged in post-processing? Like removing supports or left it in the acetone 5 seconds too long and it's now a blob.
* is #4 another functional copy of the object, or was #3 tossed because the guy running the printer grabbed the wrong spool and made a perfectly good print in the perfectly wrong material/colour.
* is #5 another functional copy of the object, or was #4 damaged in shipping?
The whole process is one-way. There just isn't a path for anything other than the end user to know what they pulled off the print bed. Unless you make the entire process from design software to printer you won't change that. And good luck selling it, 'cause the user base is rather strongly opposed to that kind of thing. For example, ANY kind of DRM in the product, from printer software to filament, is an immediate no-buy for me. I don't care if you are paying me to take it, I will find an alternative without that particular annoyance. And no, I don't use Microsoft or Adobe products either.
> 3 votes
# Answer
## Generally: No
Let's face the obvious problems of the files exchanged and the files used for printing, and then look into why it is a bad idea in the first place.
## G-code
G-code is in its design a .txt file that contains specific orders for a machine. There is a g-code command that forces the printer to delete the file (`M30`) but that needs the exact file path - and just does nothing if the path is incorrect. One could make a slicer profile, that after printing, deletes the file from the SD-card, but doing so as a user is only useful for one-off jobs and it can be prevented by the user by simply shutting down the printer before the line is triggered.
Because .gcode is essentially a .txt without any special features but a custom ending, it can't provide DRM beyond containing a self-delete-after-completion.
## STL & OBJ
STL and OBJ are the most relevant exchange files. They are open source and not intended to contain any DRM.
## Other formats?
Even with a different format, you would need both a **proprietary 3D format** that can only be read by your DRM-enabled slicer as well as a **proprietary printer file type** that both contain DRM. However, using a proprietary printer command type means you lock down your file to be only available to your printer family, which in turn makes this printer family **less** desirable, as it can't work with the standard g-code format.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: file-formats, legal
--- |
thread-13770 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13770 | Is it possible to upgrade the CR10-S Pro to CR10-S Pro v2? | 2020-05-28T18:54:33.687 | # Question
Title: Is it possible to upgrade the CR10-S Pro to CR10-S Pro v2?
What I really want to do is to upgrade hardware components to support 'print recovery' after a power outage.
# Answer
Print recovery can be achieved by changing the firmware.
Here is some information on how to do that: Marlin documentation
Also, this another stackoverflow post about that: Stackoverflow Post
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-cr-10, hardware
--- |
thread-13774 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13774 | How to control 4 thermistors in a heated bed? | 2020-05-29T04:20:19.543 | # Question
Title: How to control 4 thermistors in a heated bed?
My print area is ~ 17x16 inches (431.8 mm x 406.4 mm = 175,158.4 mm/2). To that end I need four (4) 200mm square heaters, and associated mosfets to run it. Each heater has it's own thermistor and can potentially reach the target temp independently (theoretically they could, since there will be deviations in manufacturing).
My mainboard (the SKR Pro) has support for 4 thermistors; however my solution in this configuration has 5.
When I double the size of the printer later this year, I expect that I will need 8 heaters.
Is there a solution to control that many heaters such that non of them over shoot their temps, or am I going to have to design and build a dedicated thermal management board to control beds of this nature?
# Answer
> 2 votes
You can use the Klipper firmware which accepts an arbitrary number of heaters.
Then you can write a Klipper macro which takes one input and applies it to each heated bed (or not, as you prefer).
With Klipper you can also add another Arduino and connect it to klipper as well, in case you don't have enough pins on your board: klipper is not limited to controlling one single board per printer.
Check the docs.
---
Tags: thermistor, mosfet
--- |
thread-13777 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13777 | Deactivate combing in first layer | 2020-05-29T11:08:02.833 | # Question
Title: Deactivate combing in first layer
I noticed a problem with the combing feature. When I print the first layer with combing set to “not in skin” the extruder does not retract on the first layer. That leads to ugly oozing strings in the visible parts of the prints and also to other problems. E.g. if I want to print a model with tiny circles in the first layer (like for screw holes) the circles get easily pulled away because the extruder is not retracting. At first I thought I’m having sticking problems with the first layer, but I improved that a lot and my prints are perfectly fine now, when I turn off combing completely. In that case the extruder is retracting as desired and the circles stay in place. But turning combing off isn’t always a good option. Sometimes large prints take so much longer and may even have little marks in the visible surfaces where the retractions happened. So I don’t want to turn combing off completely just to be sure the first layer is okay. I saw this behavior with a lot of different models now, so I’m sure, Cura doesn’t always handle the first layer as skin. Setting combing to “not in skin” does definitely not help.
Here are two pictures of the first layer of a print. The first one with combing turned off. You can see the light blue travel lines which mean, the extruder is retracted. And the second one with combing set to “not in skin” where you can see the dark blue lines. The extruder is not retracted there which produces the described problems.
---
*Updated question to answer:*
Thanks a lot for explaining that to me. But I’m afraid the problem still persists. The value of “retraction minimum travel” was at 0.8 mm, which should be fine I assume. Now I’ve set it to zero, just to be sure. The extruder does still not retract as you can see in the picture below.
But when I turn combing off completely, the retraction is happening. So I think it is a problem with the definition of “skin” for the combing mode “not in skin”. The bottom layer doesn’t seem to be treated as skin. By the way, I’m running the latest version of Cura of course (4.6.1).
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you set it to `Not in Skin` it will not comb and as such it will retract. Retraction travel moves are shown as light blue lines
> Light blue are retraction moves. Dark blue are non-retracting moves. Both types are non-extruding moves.
In that respect you would expect that if you set `Combing` to `Not in Skin`, it will retract and move to the other position:
If you wouldn't comb at all, you would see the same:
If you would comb all layers, so no retractions, we would expect dark blue lines:
Basically, Cura does exactly what it needs to do as seen in the screenshots, I cannot place/reproduce the screenshots in the question. To explain this (as commented below by @R..) another setting or settings may have caused preventing retraction like the `Retraction Minimum Travel` (`retract_min_travel`) in Cura.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing
--- |
thread-4353 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4353 | SLA prints not sticking to build plate | 2017-07-11T01:08:27.473 | # Question
Title: SLA prints not sticking to build plate
I have been working with our SLA printer (Facture Draken) for a couple weeks now printing in makerjuice waxcast. . I have had some successful prints, but the majority (80%) end up as pancakes stuck to the bottom of the resin tray. Some others break in half mid print.
I have experimented with laying my models (round circular diks) flat on the build plate, but most of the times I place them on supports which stem from a square baseplate.
It seems clear to me that there is allot of force being put on the models while curing on the bottom of the resin tray. I have noticed that printing objects with a larger projection area are more likely to stick in the vat. I assume this is because of the increased contact with the tray. Usually it seems ~10 layers are built before my baseplate breaks away.
Things I have tried
* Pulling out the build plate, cleaning it with Acetone. Sanding it with 80 grit sandpaper.
* Emptying the resin tray and replacing with new resin.
* Upping base-layer cure-time from from 30seconds up to 3 minutes, and variations between.
* Upping base-layer count from 2 to 4.
* Rotating model base 45% to start the tray peel process from a corner rather than from a long edge to reduce initial tear force.
Anyone with experience got more suggestions on how to continue troubleshooting?
# Answer
Prints could end up on tray for couple of reasons.
* Vacuum force on early layers - Usually you should lose pieces on the center of platform
+ Put holes or channels on platform
+ Very slow speed on early layers
+ Use smaller platform
+ Use tilt mechanism
+ Use larger support structures
+ Use stickier platform - Anodized aluminum is specially good
* Non-aligned platform - Pieces on side of platform end up on tray
+ Align platform / tray
* Low cure times - you could lose pieces around platform for DLP and whole platform for LCD ones
* Resin related issues
+ Resin designed for thinner layers - Decrease layer thickness
+ Pigment settled down - Shake resin before use
> 10 votes
# Answer
I also had issues with the first layer sticking to the build plate and I did not want to sand the plate. As most people will mention you need to make sure that your plate is perfectly level and the z height is right (lots of friction on the paper). You also need the correct exposure times for your resin and the first few layers should get 60 seconds of exposure. **PRO TIP to improve bed adhesion:** apply a thin layer of resin to the build platform before you start to print. I have not any failed prints after I started coating the plate with resin. Also, I don't completely clean the plate between prints, I make sure it is still sticky. I hope this helps.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I had the same exact problems. Nothing would stick to the platform. One day I realized, that all of the failed prints would always start to fall off to one side, and all of the successful prints were all misformed and kinda diagonal. The platform was not level.
Another problem that I more recently had was that I left resin on the plate for a couple of months and it hardened which doesn't allow printing at all.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I have a plain smooth aluminium build plate and it seemed that nearly all problems with adhesion which I had were caused by the **plate not being cleaned well enough with IPA and a paper towel**, after removing (allegedly) the rests of the previous model with a metal scraper. The new model was peeling off only in places where the old model was previously attached. Now I clean the plate thoroughly, tightly pressing the towel, and there are no more peel-off problems with any typical resin. I have even reduced the typical exposure times of bottom layers because otherwise the model might be attached too strongly.
Then, there are **special resins** which can be more difficult to work with. I have one resin for ultra-resistant prints which seems very sensitive to the plate alignment or other inaccuracies at lower temperatures. If I use that resin, I **warm the build plate up to about 35 °C (95 °F)** with a hairdryer and unless there is not a large alignment problem, the printouts stick very well. The built plate is, however, trapezoidal and rather massive, so that it keeps the temperature for a necessary period of time.
The sensitivity to plate alignment leads to another subject: **check the plate angles** if you didn't do so. The angles should be well adjusted by allowing the plate to rest slightly pressed to the calibration pad with the plate's screw loose before tightening it again and adjusting the height.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: build-plate, sla, troubleshooting
--- |
thread-13788 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13788 | Calculating gear ratio for leadscrew | 2020-05-31T19:55:13.720 | # Question
Title: Calculating gear ratio for leadscrew
My calibration at my printer is okay. When I try to move 10 mm, it's exactly 10 mm.
But I want to know what is my precision for Z-axis.
(*not posting the link of the product maybe it's not okay for the platform*)
**Spec for leadscrew:**
* Lead screw diameter: 8 mm
* Screw pitch: 2 mm
* Lead of thread: 8 mm
My question; is my gear ratio 4:1 or 1:4? It's giving different results.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your lead screw nut advances 8 mm every complete rotation of 200 full steps, so a single full step would change the height by 8/200 = 0.04 mm. This implies you need to set the layer height a multiple of 0.04 mm.
The gear ratio of 4:1 (a reduction) is required to get to your desired 0.01 mm layer height, but that is a very uncommon and a too small layer height to use.
---
Tags: calibration, lead-screw
--- |
thread-13736 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13736 | How to solve burnt blobs on Prusa MK3S (PETG)? | 2020-05-23T21:00:59.777 | # Question
Title: How to solve burnt blobs on Prusa MK3S (PETG)?
As stated above, I am trying to solve a problem I've had for a long time. Unfortunately, this has recently intensified to the point where it causes layer splitting/detaching from each other. I have tried various ways to fix this and, while decreasing the temperature and extrusion multiplier improved the situation, the problem is still present.
My settings:
- Nozzle 235 °C Bed 100 °C
- Cooling 25 %
- Extrusion multiplier 0.89
- Speed 150 mm/s for everything, 50 mm/s for small perimiters
- Acceleration 1000 mm/s<sup>2</sup>, (default)
- Layer height 0.15-0.3mm
- Line width - 0.6mm for everything, but 0.45 for first layer and 0.42 for top solid infill
Is there a different solution than lowering print speed or buying an E3D silicon sock? I have lost my spare ones and the current one wore down. Obviously, I can simply pause the print when I see plastic bulding up on the nozzle, but I am sure that there is a more efficient solution.
UPDATE: I found that the hotend was very dirty and full of burnt/molten plastic. I am almost sure that the hotend is leaking somewhere between the heat block and the heat break. This didn't happen before I replaced the nozzle. How can I fix this? Do I have to replace the heat break or some other part?
# Answer
> 3 votes
I saw PETG printed at 100 mm/s, but 150! That's a lot.
One solution to avoid blobs may be to limit the maximum speed to a value you can actually achieve with reliable results.
Simple test to find your machine limits (each combination filament brand + nozzle + temperature has a different value): extrude filament in the air at increasing speeds, see how the flow changes, and when you see more than 5% decrease, that's it.
1. M83
2. mark the filament as if you were calibrating the E steps
3. calculate filament speed: speed = volum/s / filament surface * 60 = mm^3/s * 25 (this factor is valid for 1.75 mm filament)
4. set extrusion speed for 2 mm^3/s: G1 F50
5. extrude 50 mm: G1 E50
6. measure actual length extruded
7. repeat 2.-6. but increase the speed by 2 mm^3/s each time: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, ...
8. at a certain speed you will see that the actual filament length starts to decrease. When you see that the underextrusion reaches 5-10% (depending how much underextrusion you accept), write down that volumetric speed (mm^3/s) somewhere, it's your limit for THAT filament + THAT nozzle + THAT temperature
9. Either a) calculate the max print speed = volumetric speed / layer height / line width or b) set the maximum volumetric flow rate in the slicing software so that the speed will be automatically capped taking into account layer height and line width. Prusaslicer allows to set that in the "Print" or in "Filament" settings, I recommend it for "Filament" settings, since it's a filament-dependent parameter.
Example data from CNC Kitchen:
You can increase the max print speed, at the price of a little loss of quality around edges, if you calibrate the E steps at a speed corresponding to 2-3% underextrusion (alternative: to the speed of outer perimeters).
This way you know that when you print slower than that (uncommon... typically only sharp corners and small perimeters) you'll get up to 2-3% overextrusion, and you extend by 2-3% the maximum print speed, since your max speed is the one where you get 5-10% underextrusion compared to your E steps calibration speed.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Even not extruding anything but just performing travel moves over PETG at 100 mm/s or higher will *tear it up and drag material all over the place*. The result is blobs stuck to the nozzle, possibly even stringing, and choppy lines that the next layer will not properly adhere to. PETG simply cannot be printed at these kind of speeds regardless of how fast your hotend can melt it.
Turn **all** speeds, print and travel, down to 40-50 mm/s, then experiment to see if you can increase them at all.
Note that if your acceleration is only 1000 mm/s², you're basically never going to reach the desired 150 mm/s anyway, so this probably won't be as much of a slowdown as you expect. Jack the acceleration up as high as your machine can handle and it might still print as fast or faster, but without the blobs.
---
Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, petg
--- |
thread-13792 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13792 | Causes of over-extrusion? | 2020-06-01T10:46:01.747 | # Question
Title: Causes of over-extrusion?
What could be the causes of a consistent over-extrusion? I know about these:
1. steps/mm of extruder motor set too high
2. larger filament diameter
3. slicer setting: filament diameter - setting it lower makes the printer extrude more filament
4. slicer setting: extrusion multiplier - setting it higher makes the printer extrude more filament
5. unlikely but possible bug in slicer or in printer firmware
6. other: low/high tempereture, too much/little tension on the extruder gears, wrong nozzle fitted,...
Now to my problem. I had to replace the entire hotend assembly on my Prusa i3 MK2,5. Before that, there was no issue. After the replacement and after noticing the issue, I followed the list above. I recalibrated the extruder and in fact I had to increase the steps/mm to match the extruded length.
I have printed with different filaments and the issue is still present. Also I checked the diameter of all the filaments which are quite consistent (1,75 +-0,3 measured, 1,75 +- 0,5 given by the manufacturer). All of them were the same brand.
I also checked slicer settings and the default values that I used before were still there.
Slicer and firmware versions are the same as before the issue started occuring.
I use the same print settings as before and have checked the extruder gears tensioner multiple times over. The nozzle came with the hotend and according to the E3D dots it is in fact the default 0,4 mm nozzle. However, I cannot check the real diameter.
I know I can solve this issue by altering the steps/mm or extrusion multiplier because the over-extrusion is consistent. I want to know if there is something I am missing that could cause this.
Thank you for your valuable time and suggestions.
Edit:
# Answer
This is almost surely the source of your problem:
> I had to replace the entire hotend assembly on my Prusa i3 MK2,5. Before that, there was no issue. After the replacement and after noticing the issue, I followed the list above. I recalibrated the extruder and in fact I had to increase the steps/mm to match the extruded length.
There is no plausible physical reason for extruder steps/mm to change due to replacement of the hotend. Steps/mm is purely a function of stepper motor steps per rotation and extruder gear radius. Set it back to its original value.
If the extruded length is not matching what it should, you have a problem with blockage/flow rate in the hotend restricting advance of the filament and causing the extruder gear to grind without moving it, or the motor to skip steps. Adjusting steps/mm to "compensate" will not fix this; it will just grind/skip more. Instead go back to the beginning, with steps/mm set correctly to the original value, and start looking for the cause of your hotend problem.
> 1 votes
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Tags: troubleshooting, extrusion
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thread-13731 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13731 | Thermal Stress Cracking During Heat-Up on Glass Heated Bed | 2020-05-23T00:48:05.393 | # Question
Title: Thermal Stress Cracking During Heat-Up on Glass Heated Bed
About two months ago, I added a heated bed to my custom 3D printer in order to print larger ABS parts for my research project. The heated bed (the PCB kind) was not new, but taken from an old printer I had built, but took apart. The bed worked well for a few weeks, but after one print finished, the glass bed above the heater PCB had shattered into several pieces (represented by bed 1 in the image below) and the nozzle was below the level of the bed (I believed it had lowered into the glass causing the breakage. I haven't determined what caused this motion, but it hasn't happened since). Notably, this print was using the heated bed at 90 °C. I chalked this up to a freak accident, and since it did not happen again, just replaced the glass and kept printing.
However, as soon as the heated bed was activated after the replacement, a small crack appeared on the glass and continued to lengthen as time progressed. I took off the glass as soon as possible and prevented it from fully breaking (see bed 2 in the image below. This bed was smaller as I didn't have access to a large enough piece of glass at the time).
At this point, I figured something more than an impact caused the glass to shatter. Since both cracks occurred when the bed was heating or cooling, I figured that thermal shock could potentially be the source of the cracking, and a quick google reinforced this idea. Due to the nature of both cracks (not being straight shards but meandering around the build plate and propagating slowly), they both appeared to have been caused, or at least propagated, by thermal effects.
To try to avoid future cracking, I took care in assembling the third bed. The heater PCB was attached tightly to the glass with Kapton tape and a thin layer of thermal paste was added as an interface layer to try to get an even contact and heat distribution throughout the glass plate. I made sure that the cardboard shims (which press the glass into the clips) were not too compressed, thinking that pressure in the middle of the glass plate from the shims may have accentuated the cracking by putting the top of the glass under tension.
But after a few cycles with this new bed, the same problem appeared (bed 3 below). This time, the cracking was as severe as the first case, but no impact occurred and I was not touching the bed. The bed was heating up to temperature (90 °C) when the cracking occurred. The strangest part is, the file set to print was one I had already printed successfully on the newest bed.
At this point I am at a loss and don't know what to do next. I don't want to make another bed just to have it crack in a few prints, but I need the bed in the near future. Any suggestions to mitigate this problem would be greatly appreciated.
**Update (currently fixed)**
I have replaced the bed with a borosilicate glass sheet, switched the heater to a stick-on 120V silicone heater (the same size as the bed), and added a PEI sheet on top. After about 2 months, it is working great and no cracks have formed. My best guess is that it was a combination of poor glass, possibly with small fractures on the edges already since I cut it myself, and the heater which was too small for the bed. Thanks for the suggestions!
# Answer
The problem is in the design of your bed. Let's start from the basic setup of a glass bed:
The heater element is usually mounted to a metal carrier, which is both spreading the thermal energy over the bed, but also is the structural element that is leveled against the carriage. Atop that comes the glass print surface.
Now, once the heater element is turned on, the aluminium starts to expand and evens the distribution to the glass. As the glass has a much lower thermal expansion coefficient, it doesn't expand as fast. Because of this, the glass surface should **never** be glued to the bed or heater but held in position to the metal bed with a clip. This way the thermal and mechanical stress on the glass sheet is mitigated: The metal bed evens the heat transfer and the clip can move its position on the glass.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I would be careful before trying another glass just hoping it will go better, since you haven't found the issue.
I have a PCB heated bed in direct contact (PCB copper traces on top) a 2 mm glass (plain float glass, not hardened and not borosilicate). It never broke and I've been using it intensely for the last few months. My heated bed is very flat (even if it bends with the heat) and also clean: no residues which can push against the glass. Clean yours properly!
Also, how powerful is your heated bed? mine is about 120 W for 12x12 cm. If yours is too powerful, maybe you could slow down the heating by reducing the maximum duty cycle (you need maybe to recompile Marlin) or by increasing the temperature 10 °C at time.
I also see that you use mirrors, maybe recovered from other applications. I bought the glass new, which is very cheap but it is also guaranteed defect free. Maybe yours had issues already.
> 0 votes
# Answer
As manufactuer and 3D printing's fans, I think it's better to use custom tempered glass. It will be nice and flat and stiff. It's also easy to clean and holds up well. You can print on the bare glass with many materials or use various preparations like PVA (glue stick or white glue diluted with water are popular), hairspray, or others.
> 0 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, glass-bed
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thread-13799 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13799 | Material "clumping" when printing | 2020-06-02T16:53:35.440 | # Question
Title: Material "clumping" when printing
I recently started swapping out my nozzle for different sizes. After a few times using a 0.4 mm, then 0.8 mm, then back to 0.4 mm, I now have this "clumping" going on when printing. The photos are of PLA but this happens with PETG also. Before I started changing nozzles, my prints were perfect.
The blue filament is Overture PLA, printing at 45 mm/s 210 °C (I lowered the temp to 200 °C and it's still happening).
---
**Some things I've noticed (which did not exist when my prints were good):**
* Melted filament on the rubber piece that covers the underside of the extruder. Could something be backing up, melting, and then falling in a clump on top of my print?
* The bottom metal piece on the extruder is slightly loose. It's the flat piece attached to the main extruder body with two screws. I don't know what it's called, so I couldn't even search for how to tighten it.
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## The questions:
1. **Does this "clumping' have an actual name?**
2. **What did I potentially do when swapping nozzles that could have caused this (if that's in fact how it started)?**
3. **How can I fix it?**
---
---
Update:
The print stopped and I removed the shroud. My train of thought was spot on as I saw a pool of blue PLA inside the housing and on the nozzle. But I still don't know how this happened.
# Answer
From your initial photos, it looks like the bed level was too high, and there was thereby more material extruded than fit in the space. Even with an "identical" nozzle, the distances involved here are on an order of magnitude (less than 0.1 mm) that you're not going to get identical distance to the bed from one nozzle to another.
Further, as you found out following up, not having the nozzle tightened all the way will affect its height, and allow molten material to exit around the gap. It's always a problem not having your nozzle tightened all the way to make a good seal (I actually had nearly the same problem the first time I ever changed a nozzle), but having the bed too close probably made even more material ooze out at the gap due to backpressure.
Hopefully fixing these two things gets you back to printing right. It might be some work to clean out any material left in the hotend, especially if it worked its way around into the threads where the nozzle screws in. Be gentle if you have to clean that out further, since it's easy to strip the threads if you use abrasive tools, and then you'll be looking at replacing the heater block.
> 2 votes
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Tags: filament, pla, creality-ender-3, nozzle
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thread-13801 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13801 | How is a Thermistor supposed to be installed between Heated Bed and the Glass? | 2020-06-03T10:25:43.747 | # Question
Title: How is a Thermistor supposed to be installed between Heated Bed and the Glass?
opposed to what the title of this question might impose, I'm not new to 3d printing itself and have operated more than one printer for years, however, I feel dumb with installing the Thermistor on this new Heated Bed I got from RepRap.me: Aluminum Heatbed MK3 400x300
The old Mk2b 214x214 Mendel/Prusa heated bed that I have been using for quite a while now has a through-hole in the center, where the thermistor-leads could be fed to from below.
On this new heated bed however, there is a lowering in the very center of the Heated Bed to place the Thermistor in, yet the pads to connect the thermistor leads to right beside it are level with the rest of the Heated bed.
I tried using just a tiny amount of SMD solderpaste and just soldering the thermistor leads as flat as possible to the pads, nevertheless, the glass plate on top is not laying flat and stable on the heated bed with the thermistor installed.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated on how improve the thermistor-installation onto this heated bed!
# Answer
Try to use a silicone heat conductive pad between heater and glass, where you can make a hole for the sensor. It also helps to improve the contact between aluminium heater and glass, which otherwise may be inhomogeneous (as expected between two quite rigid materials).
They sell them in rolls and you can choose a 1 mm thick one or even 0.5 mm. They are "sticky" but they don't have glue, so you will be able to separate the glass from the pad, even if not so easily as it would be with a clip.
> 2 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, thermistor
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thread-12226 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12226 | Prints coming out very stringy | 2020-03-22T12:51:32.983 | # Question
Title: Prints coming out very stringy
So these past few days I have been 3D printing again with my Ender 3 with PETG and 0.4 mm nozzle and while I have been using the same setting as usual I am seeing an unusual amount of stringing between the prints. Does anyone know why? If you're wondering regarding the settings here they are, I'm using Cura for slicing, see options:
# Answer
> 2 votes
The travel speed of 160 mm/s is a big red flag. PETG is not tolerant of a hot nozzle moving over it at high speeds, especially unretracted (combing). The nozzle will drag material in a stuttering pattern, every so often, marring the surface and pulling what it dug up into strings.
Lower the travel speed to the same as the print speed, and then experiment with whether you can increase it without problems. I would not try going over 80 mm/s and probably not even over 60.
For what it's worth, this *sounds like* softened/molten PETG is a non-newtonian fluid, where at low stress (slow moving nozzle pushing/pulling) it deforms gracefully, but at high stress (fast moving nozzle) it strongly resists deformation and has a discontinuous breaking point. A quick Googling turned up this article, Thermal, Rheological and Mechanical Properties of PETG/rPETG Blends, which might explain what's happening.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Petg it stringy material, all I can do is keep it dry to prevent blob. but I live in hot country with high moisture so I decide to keep filament in heat dryer box while print. It help a lot.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3, nozzle, heat-management, retraction
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thread-6938 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6938 | What is this weird support line doing in this print? | 2018-09-18T02:07:43.240 | # Question
Title: What is this weird support line doing in this print?
I am a newbie to 3D printing and ran into a weird infill line on my second 3D printing object on a new Qidi X-Pro machine (which works great). I've included a screenshot of the infill line, which is deliberately printed the full height of the object. I'm thinking this line has been deliberately inserted by the Qidi slicer for some reason, but I have no idea why. Do all slicers generate these kinds of lines? If so, why?
# Answer
> 4 votes
I do not know the Qidi slicer, but if you look closely, you will see this line is thinner than the normal support infill lines. You could try to visualize the G-code in a viewer, usually this can be done in the slicer itself, but online viewers are available. The viewer will not only show the printed lines, but also show moves by the print head (usually in a different color). You can check whether this extra line is actually printed or a move. If it is a move, this extra line is caused by your hotend which is leaking when it moves. You need to properly tune the hotend with respect to the retraction settings and temperature. There are numerous retraction test print objects to find on the internet.
Depending on your slicer settings, some slicers are able to define where each layer starts printing (e.g. random, or start at sharp corner). The fact you see a support structure "printed the full height of the object" tells you that each layer starts at the same position. It is not uncommon in uniform simple parts where each layer starts at the same position (X/Y) as this is instructed by the slicer setting. In Ultimaker Cura such an option is called `Z Seam Alignment`.
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Bottom line, all slicers will do this when your printer is improperly tuned (incorrect settings for e.g. print temperature, retraction, coasting, travel speed). It is up to you to find the correct settings, test print objects help you with that.
# Answer
> -1 votes
Here have a posible solution -\> How to remove unwanted filament trails from sharp corners
I think, that can be a combination of z-hopping and combing-mode in the slicer that you use.
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Tags: infill
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thread-13612 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13612 | Can't find a usable temperature for PLA | 2020-05-06T21:46:20.793 | # Question
Title: Can't find a usable temperature for PLA
I have a Monoprice MP10 Mini, a cut-down Creality CR-10 with lobotomized firmware. Heated bed.
I'm trying to do PLA prints, but have been unable to find a usable temperature.
If I set the temperatures (either nozzle or bed) too low, the initial raft layers don't stick, the print shrivels up, and the result is a tangle.
If I set the temperatures high enough to allow initial sticking, the raft prints okay, but after that the filament leaks out of the nozzle during long moves producing strings (only a little unsightly when outside the print area, but causing bumps when moves over the build and eventually the nozzle knocks into them) and all solid flat areas (ceilings/floors) warp.
If I start with a high temp but reduce it during the print, the layers stop sticking to each other, solid areas still warp, and the printer eventually fails to extrude anything (presumably the filament congeals inside the extruder or tube, that's very unpleasant to recover from, fortunately I have some cleaning filament).
Tried with multiple types of filament and multiple models (from thingiverse, converted into gcode using cura 3.6)
What should I be trying?
# Answer
First, you shouldn't need a raft for most PLA prints. That will help you get better bed adhesion at lower temperatures.
Second, you can reduce the stringing by increasing travel speeds (120 mm/s is not too fast) and a small amount of retraction: around 1.5 mm for direct drive and 5-6 mm for bowden.
With those settings, you should be able to print most PLA with a bed at anywhere from 50-60 °C and an extruder at anywhere from 190 to 215 °C.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Try bed at 50°C and hotend at 215°C, these are safe values.
Enable retraction in the slicer, to avoid/reduce oozing during long moves, but with Bowden setups finding a good value is trickier. Try with 6 mm.
Set the first layer height properly, but do it AFTER the bed has been heated for 5-10 minutes.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Here is the important information from your question:
> If I set the temperatures high enough to allow initial sticking, the raft prints okay, but after that the filament leaks out of the nozzle during long moves producing strings (only a little unsightly when outside the print area, but causing bumps when moves over the build and eventually the nozzle knocks into them) and all solid flat areas (ceilings/floors) warp.
If you have material leaking from the nozzle during moves, this means your retraction settings are wrong - either off entirely, or insufficient distance. As I understand it your printer has a bowden extruder, so retraction distance needs to be at least 5 mm and probably 6 to 6.5 mm. Note that "Retract at layer change" is a separate and independent option from "Enable retraction", and is not really important; "Enable retraction" is the one that must be on. "Retraction Minimum Travel" should also be set very low (the Cura default of twice the line width, or slightly lower than that, is probably good).
> 2 votes
# Answer
If you get one of those lazer pointer thermometer things from the hardware store for checking the temperature of hot water pipes and stuff you can usually heat your hot end up and look at the actual temperature of your nozzle. If it's hotter or colder than the temperature that your filment is rated for them there should be a line of code in your firmware that will allow you to offset the temperature making it perfectly calibrated spot on. Then you should never have to change it ever again
> 2 votes
# Answer
As @Fernando Balthazar had suggested, the z-offset was wrong. I needed to bring the nozzle and the bed closer together. The printer's default is -0.50 mm, I had to change to -0.78 mm or so to get it to stick. But then I need to reduce set it back to -0.50 or -0.40 during the print to avoid the nozzle banging into the model.
I used 205C for nozzle and 35C for bed and it works great, virtually no warping.
> 1 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, filament, creality-cr-10, print-failure
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thread-13807 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13807 | Ender 3, unable to level the heating bed | 2020-06-04T05:55:56.823 | # Question
Title: Ender 3, unable to level the heating bed
I have an Ender 3 3D printer.
I am having an issue with leveling it, everything I do does not make any change.
The right side of the bed is higher than the left side, that will make me loosening the right side springs completely. I’ve worked with this printer before and I know it’s should not be like this.
1. The printer is sitting on a leveled surface.
2. I have 90° in each of every connection of the stands.
3. X-Axis is corresponding to the upper stand.
4. I’ve replaced the regular bed cover for 4 mm ״milky” glass.
5. I’ve replaced the springs to the stronger ones.
6. I’ve modify the location of the Z-switch to the lowest corner of the bed.
# Answer
When you do the homing and then do the leveling how much thread you have left that passes the tuning wheel? Verify this on all the four wheels. If you have no thread left then you may consider to lower the Z end-stop. Check also the Y gantry to see if it is parallel to the base, and make adjustments if needed.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling
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thread-13816 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13816 | Are there attempts to standardize G-code for FFF/FDM printers? | 2020-06-06T09:32:48.787 | # Question
Title: Are there attempts to standardize G-code for FFF/FDM printers?
Rep-Rap project wiki contains information about different G-Code dialects for FFF/FDM 3D printers.
I googled but couldn't find if there were any attempts in DIY community to standardize existing dialects more or less?
For example, M115 command should return meta-information about firmware version and capabilities. But almost each popular firmware doing it in a slightly different way: sometimes they are just using different separators, sometimes constants are structurally different as well.
The result (as I see it) is some standard subset of G-Code commands that can be extended with dialects from different firmware providers. Probably something similar (but better) to what's is SQL world.
Are there any major cons for doing this?
# Answer
> 7 votes
## G-Code Is RS-274/NGC
There is no need to attempt to standardize G-Code, the G-code itself **already is** standardized: it is the NIST RS274/NGC, or often short AIN RS-274 and was not designed for just FDM printers but any moving tool. Power lathes, CNC and laser cutters all can run on RS-274! G0 and G1 always move, G28 is always the homing procedure and so on. To show how the RS-274 standard evolved over time, check out an older variant of the document, the NISTIR 597 Canonical Machining Commands.
### Implementation is not standardized!
However, due to the design of a given machine, the exact procedure for these commands has to be different for different designs. For example in a carthesian, prusa style printer Homing is usually moving negatively in X, Y and Z, in that order, one after another. But in a Delta Printer, that would most likely get your printhead to an illegal position: the printhead would first be moved out of the print volume and then never hit any endstop as those are mounted at the top of the printer. Instead, all axis on a delta are moving up simultaneous on homing, stopping each axis as they hit their endstop at the top, then the whole setup moves down to the printbed in unison. On a mill, lathe or router, the G28 operation usually starts by backing the tool away from the work volume, then moving to the 0 and only then moving the tool back into the work area to avoid fixtures.
### G & M-command gaps
Another caveat is, that the standardization via the NIST document only encompasses codes G0 to G99 and M0 to M49 - with gaps. Which brings us to the code block M - Miscellaneous. It is not fully defined in the document. FANUC setup uses a few more common M-commands but might contain more. The CNCcookbook has only 16 common M-commands, none of them a reporting one. Autodesk declares even only 11 M-block commands most common: M0 to M9 and M30. Of these the coolant related ones are usually irrelevant for FDM.
## M115
M115 and M503 are *reporting* functions outside of the areas that were pretty much defined by the norming agency and thus have cropped up as development needed them until they formed undefined de-facto industry standards. This means that the standard itself does not contain them, but everybody and bob know that these commands are meant to report firmware and report settings respectively because some popular machines started with it.
These two commands are to inform a programmer what is the brains of the machine and settings, and as such, they are also subject to the style guide of the programming institution - the norm document does *not* contain a style guide, leaving it free for any implementation to chose style. A working example is Marlin's M115.
However, there are reasons why a programmer might disable M115 but keep M503: Industrial machines, especially such with maintenance contracts, usually don't allow users to access the firmware in some ways to on one hand keep them out from messing with the machine too much and on the other make sure that only a licensed technician can access some reporting functions by using proprietary commands. M503 on the other hand reports on the current status of settings that might be changed by the user or their service technician to account for different print requirements.
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Tags: g-code
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thread-13809 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13809 | Sunlight powered metal 3D printer | 2020-06-04T20:41:47.253 | # Question
Title: Sunlight powered metal 3D printer
Could concentrated sunlight be used to build a metal 3D printer, sintering or melting metal powder?
Related question on physics stack exchange https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/143049/what-temperature-is-achieved-in-focus-point-by-5000-flat-1x1cm-mirrors-onto-a-sa
# Answer
> 3 votes
Let's start with the obvious: this printer would need to be really big. Not because of a large print volume, but because it needs to collect a lot of sunlight or needs a really big focussing array. The linked question states that the array there, about 0.6 m² large, has roundabout 600 W of power to focus on that one point.
# Power draw needs
## What powers are we dealing with?
A typical laser cutter uses a laser tube that at least 20 W for thin material and up to 300 W for thicker material. But we need to weld steel, so we need to be roughly equivalent to a cutting laser for the same material. We are not talking mere hundreds of watts, we are talking an industrial 2000 to 20000 W in a laser of less than a millimeter in diameter. Why do I say the later? Well, power need scales with the area, which scales with the square of the radius.
Let's use a ballpark, a nice round 10000 W Laser with a somewhat large 1 mm² crossection. We're talking about the ballpark of 100 Gigawatt per square meter.
$L=P/A=\frac{10000\ \text W}{0,001\times 0.001\ \text m^2}=10^{10}\frac{\text W}{\text m^2}$
## Solar power harvester size
Luckily, we don't need to illuminate a whole square meter, so we only need some 10 Kilowatts of sunlight for our application. But we need this number to calculate how much sunlight we need to *harvest* in our smelting machine.
At the stratosphere, Earth gets about 1400 W/m², and on a sunny day, about 1 kW/m² makes it to the surface, we call this the solar constant $S$. Now, if we compare the ballparks, we get to quickly see the ballpark size of our machine:
$P/S=A=\frac{10 \text{ kW}}{1 \frac {\text{kW}} {\text m^2}} = 10\ \text m^2$
10 square meters of harvesting area gets us the same power. Incidentally, this scales linearly with the item discussed in the linked question, as that one already uses square meters.
## Sizing down
But 10 square meters of mirrors into a focal point and then lenses to a focal point is huge, can we make it smaller? And to that I must say *somewhat*. First of all, we could get our focal point smaller: We need to get 10 Gigawatt per square meter for our $L$, but we can turn two screws here: what if we get from 1 mm² to only 0.1 mm²?
$P=L\*A=10^{10}\*(0.0001\times 0.0001)\ \text W=100 W$
100 Watts focussed on 0.1 mm² is a sixth of the power that array can deliver, so totally feasible in terms of power, as long as you can achieve such a small focal point.
# Conclusion
Yes, with a focussing array good enough or a mirror array large enough you could achieve the powers needed to melt metals on a spot focus. Note though, that you need to have a really good focus setup that creates pretty much a solar-powered laser, which means that such a machine will be extremely expensive due to the high precision machinery needed for that - and that this focusing aperture will be most likely the largest part of your machine. We're talking building-size scale. I'd be cheaper and easier to just put lots of solar panels onto the roof of the building you run a conventional metal 3D printer in.
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Tags: metal-printing
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thread-13712 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13712 | The filament is almost impossible to remove | 2020-05-20T07:22:02.427 | # Question
Title: The filament is almost impossible to remove
Most people complain about the filament not sticking on build plate but mine is vice versa. At first it used to be very good. When I removed the magnetic bed the project would come off easily but for a few days it is like I glue it to the bed with epoxy. It is impossible to remove and when I remove the black projects from the bed I see white color at the bottom of the object printed. Maybe because of too much force but I don't know why this happens.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Had this problem on my second print. The nozzle was too close to the bed. The only way I got it all off was to heat the bed. Then the PLA became a bit softer and came off pretty fast.
# Answer
> 4 votes
This usually happens when your nozzle is too close to bed during the first layer.
Quick fix is **redo bed levelling**.
Clean your build surface.
Watch you first layer
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Tags: marlin, pla, creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, heated-bed
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thread-13793 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13793 | Different Probe Z offset for G28 and G29 | 2020-06-01T16:21:41.207 | # Question
Title: Different Probe Z offset for G28 and G29
After trying to solve this for the whole weekend I've run out of ideas.
I've fitted an BLTouch to my Ender-3 with an SKR mini e3 V2.0 board, firmware is Marlin 2.0.
My issue is the following: when I do autohome (`G28`) it uses the Z-Probe (BLTouch) to home (this is expected). I then set Z Probe offset to 0 (using `M851 Z0`) and move Z down until it the nozzle touches a piece of paper.
I then set the Probe Z offset to whatever value Z is at (`M851 Z-4.10`), save the settings to EEPROM and restart the machine. When doing another `G28` and moving Z to 0 afterwards the distance is perfectly the same. This is repeatable.
However when I do `G29` it measures the bed to be sitting around -1.9 mm, therefore moving Z to 0 will crash the nozzle to the bed. I can change my Probe Z offset have this fitting (`M851 Z-2.20`), however then the nozzle sits ~2 mm above the bed when doing another `G28` with "Bed Leveling" disabled.
All of this is perfectly repeatable, so I think my I've got something off in my Marlin configuration, but can't find anything wrong.
What I've tried so far:
* Setting the Z offset as default in config -\> this yields the same result as saving it to EEPROM
* Reflashing the firmware and resetting the EEPROM -\> this didn't change anything
* Connecting the probe as Z-Endstop and as Z-Probe -\> after matching the configuration (setting/unsetting Z\_MIN\_PROBE\_USES\_Z\_MIN\_ENDSTOP\_PIN) it just gave the same result.
Did anyone encounter this issue before or can give me any idea how to fix this? Any help would be appreciated.
EDIT: I've just flashed the precompiled stock firmware from the BTT Github and it works. So im quite sure i've got something wrong in my config. But since I can't find the configuration.h for that .bin file, I can't realy compare both
# Answer
> 1 votes
I'm answering my own question here.
The Issue was that I set `Z_MIN_POS` to -2.0 I guess these 2 mm were subtracted from `G28` but not from `G29`.
I don't know wether this is expected behaviour but changing `Z_MIN_POS` back to 0 fixed the issue for me.
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling, bltouch, skr-mini-e3
--- |
thread-13829 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13829 | When to use an anti-backlash bolt for a Z drive gear? | 2020-06-08T08:32:49.793 | # Question
Title: When to use an anti-backlash bolt for a Z drive gear?
I am building an HEVO printer with a 300x300 build plate and the project includes two T8 lead screws, lead 8 mm ("Tr8x8(p2)").
I read that such long lead may worsen backlash issues, so anti-backlash bolts are often used. They however increase the torque required to drive the build platform (quite important, since 8 mm lead involves using microstepping for fine adjustments) and they also reduce the usable vertical travel.
Since the build plate has already a significant weight (2020 frame, 2x 2 mm aluminium plates, 4 mm borosilicate bed, 8 linear bearings, heater), I wonder what is an approximate weight threshold to decide for using the anti-backlash or to skip it.
# Answer
> 1 votes
First of all, let's look at the geometry: We have a static XY and changing Z on our build plate. This mitigates several problems we might have faced in a different setup, mainly that our lead screw has loads changing from one face to the other: all loads always go into $-Z$, so the lower surface of the Trapezoidal threads in the brass nut of the bed carrier and the upper surface of the screw will always rub against each other.
However, let's talk about your lead. Tr8x8(p2) is not a Metric ISO-Trapezoidal pattern that is commonly recognized \- the only 8 mm diameter one in that standard is Tr8x1.5, very flat and very well suited for putting high loads onto it because there are several engagement surfaces in the nut and a low pitch angle - the thread only has about a 5° (+-1°)to the horizontal. Assuming a 15 mm nut, that's 10 times the projected engagement surface for a total area of about 214 mm².
A Tr8x8 is a very common oddball as in, it's not in the metric tables but available everywhere. It is *considerably* steeper, and with a 16 mm nut (for easier calculation) would result in 2 times the projected surfaceof a single engagement per thread. But that's only a projected area of 42.8 mm² per thread - about 1/5th of the Tr8x1.5, which correlates directly into that much less friction, because the friction is linear with the surface, which is linear to the length of the nut.
Taking an "intermediary" TR8x4 gets us about 1/2.5th of the Tr8.1.5's holding power per thread at the cost of half of the speed. From a physical standpoint, I'd take this one, also increasing the precision of the Z-movement by a factor of 2 in comparison to the Tr8x8.
## Tradeoffs
Generally speaking, we have a tradeoff here:
* Pitch is proportional to the movement speed
+ double the pitch and you move twice as fast
* Pitch is anti-proportional to holding power/torque and Z-position accuracy
+ half the pitch gives twice the torque and the Z-position error is in average reduced by half
* holding power is proportional to the diameter of the rod and the number of threads engaging with the nut
* Z-position accuracy is anti-proportional to the effective step-size of the motor
+ Z-position accuracy can be increased by using a reduction gearset: a 2:1 reduction gear halves the step-size and doubles the torque at the price of halving the movement speed. However, it can and will introduce slop and backlash.
Due to the geometry, the slop in the nut should not be an issue, as the relevant engagement surfaces never change. Further, the heavier the bed, the fewer problems you'll have with fast movements, as gravity will prevent the bed from going "airborne" at the end of travel towards the printhead. Travel away from the printhead, as it will do during printing, should never experience such.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, build-plate, lead-screw, drive-gear
--- |
thread-13825 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13825 | Can any filament be used in with any 3D printer? | 2020-06-07T21:32:37.180 | # Question
Title: Can any filament be used in with any 3D printer?
I recently heard that the 3D printing lab at my college can do fused-deposition with ABS and PLA, but I would like to use TPU, for greater flexibility.
Is it possible to feed a TPU filament into the same machine built for ABS/PLA? Or is there no difference? Assume the diameters of the filaments are the same.
# Answer
> 3 votes
> Is it possible to feed a TPU filament into the same machine built for ABS/PLA? Or is there no difference? Assume the diameters of the filaments are the same.
The question is not what the machine is *built for* but *how* it is built. Let's break stuff down some into why some filaments work better than others and the challenges with them.
## Temperature range
The first obstacle is the temperature range of the printer. For example, if your printer's Extruder can't get over 220 °C, you can't print ABS. You need to make sure your printer can match your intended filament's temperature range.
TPU usually prints around between the same temperatures for PLA and ABS, so it should work from that range.
## Heated Bed
Most Filaments work better with a heated bed, but some are almost impossible to be printed without. For TPU, a heated bed should be used but is not absolutely mandatory.
## Heated Chamber
Some filaments can't be printed without a heated chamber, others like ABS highly benefit from it. TPU is ambivalent on this as far as I know.
## Extruder Setup
There's basically 3 extruder setups. Pellet extruders are super rare, so we don't concern about them. The other two are Direct Drive and Bowden. In a Direct Drive, the extruder motor is right over the hotend, and pushes the filament directly into it. In a Bowden setup, the hotend and the extruder motor are connected via a Bowden tube. Both have benefits and drawbacks:
A Bowden makes for a lighter carriage, leading to faster printing speeds. A Direct Drive has much less trouble with elastic filaments and can do much better with retraction.
TPU is one of the filaments that works much better with Direct Drive.
## Other considerations
Some Print services do print in machines set up for one filament type and that only, because it prevents cross-contamination of the nozzles, especially when a high-temperature print material remains in it when a low-temperature print comes next. Having for example a little bit of ABS left in a printer that runs PLA next can lead to very very extreme clogging.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Regarding your particular question about TPU, any machine that can print PLA should be able to print TPU. Bed temperature is even less of an issue, and the needed nozzle temperature is roughly the same. The only potential difficulty is that, if the entire path from the extruder gear to the hotend isn't tightly confined, the soft filament can kink rather than advancing properly. However, this isn't a show-stopper - it can almost always be solved with printable upgrades to constrain the path.
If your printer has a bowden extruder, you have to go pretty slow with TPU because there's so much room for the filament to compress between the extruder gear and the nozzle, making the response to extruder advancement and retraction lagged. But this can largely be solved by upgrading the printer's firmware to one with "linear advance" or "pressure advance" feature that compensates. I can print TPU very well at 30 mm/s on my Ender 3 with firmware upgraded to Marlin 2.0, with a whopping 5.0 as the linear advance spring constant.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Most printers can print most filaments. However, some more exotic filaments are not suitable for all printers:
* To print a flexible filament such as TPU, the filament path from the extruder needs to be well-constrained. A bowden extruder is generally less good at handling flexible filaments than a direct extruder. Some direct extruders without a well-constrained filament path may also be unsuitable.
* A printer without a heated bed won't be able to print filaments that tend to warp such as ABS.
* A printer without a (heated) enclosure won't be able to print filaments that tend to warp *a lot* such as polycarbonate
* A printer with a PTFE-lined hotend won't be able to print filaments that require higher temperatures. PETG is at the upper end of what can be (safely) printed with a PTFE-lined hotend, while filaments such as polycarbonate require temperatures well outside the usable range.
* A printer with a standard brass nozzle won't be able to print (not long, anyways) abrasive filaments such as glow-in-the-dark.
It is likely the printer at your lab will be able to handle TPU just fine. If it is a bowden printer then you might have some difficulty printing but it might still work depending on exactly how soft the filament is and how well-constrained the filament path.
---
Tags: print-material, tpu
--- |
thread-5341 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5341 | Sending G-code commands to Hyrel System 30M using python | 2018-01-24T21:26:24.960 | # Question
Title: Sending G-code commands to Hyrel System 30M using python
I am using python 3.6 with pySerial library to connect to the Hyrel System 30M 3D Printer. I am able to read the data from the device but unable to write any commands to it
Here is the code:
```
ser = serial.Serial()
ser.port = 'COM4'
ser.baudrate = 38400
out = ser.readline()
ser.write(b'M106 T14 S30\n') %This is the command to turn on the fan at 30% power
```
Can somebody suggest me how to write commands to printer through python
# Answer
> 2 votes
If the one in your question is your *complete* code, a possibility is that your computer is just buffering the output for the serial port, withholding it in memory. Try to add
```
ser.flush()
```
after your last line. This command will... well... *flush* anything into the buffer through the actual connection.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Sorry for the late answer, but with Repetrel v3 and later, we have the option for you to configure a secondary COM port, and relay G- or M-Code commands from your other source through the Repetrel software to the printer. Please contact us for assistance.
Note: I work for Hyrel 3D.
---
Tags: g-code, usb, serial-connection, python
--- |
thread-13330 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13330 | How can I add an offset to the first layer to increase clearance? | 2020-04-03T16:52:31.170 | # Question
Title: How can I add an offset to the first layer to increase clearance?
My printer is calibrated for a certain clearance from the heated bed, which is chosen based on PLA.
I would like to try to increase it for the first layer for PETG, so that adhesion is reduced. The printer has M5 screws with 4000 steps/mm, so the resolution clearly allows that.
I don't want to modify the printer, I would like a G-Code or another option that I can apply in Prusa slicer in association with the specific filament when desired. I don't want to change the flow rate of the first layer, only the "zero" distance.
How can I do that?
# Answer
## Placeholders
I don't know if you are familiar with the concept of placeholders? PrusSlicer is a derivative of Slic3r which uses this concept to insert placeholders (sort of constants, with the possibility to do arithmetic) into your G-code (e.g. start or end codes) which are evaluated just before the slicer generates the final G-code upon slicing.
Unfortunately, although there is a constant for the filament type (`filament_type`), you cannot use a conditional expression as this does not work on string comparison (which should work with regular expressions...), but with some imagination you can fabricate a way to get past this problem.
E.g.
```
{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_VENDOR_PRUSA3D.*/};Printer is Prusa{endif}
M117 [filament_type]
```
evaluates fine, but
`{if filament_type=~/.*PLA.*/};Filament type is PLA{endif}`
does not evaluate fine...
Solving this using placeholders, the printing temperatures for PLA and PETG are different, so in a conditional statement of the `first_layer_temperature` you could add an additional offset to the code at the end of the start G-code.
## Start G-code
A place to do this is the filament dependent start G-code section:
You can always edit this start G-code to include a manually set offset by moving the printer to a certainly height:
`G1 Z0.15`
and then redefining the zero level
`G92 Z0`
## Printer Z-offset
Note that a `z_offset` constant exists, so it is configurable in the graphical interface, if so, than I assume this fixes your problem instantly as the offset is directly applied in the final G-code. The `z-offset` option is part of the "printer settings" interface. This extra offset is added to the initial layer height movement.
> 1 votes
# Answer
If your environment supports it, you can also use a G54 to add a constant offset to any positioning. So, you could use:
```
G53 ; clear offsets
G54 Z0.15 ; add 0.15mm to every Z position
```
Just remember to clear the offsets at the end of your gcode:
```
G53 ; clear offsets
```
> 1 votes
---
Tags: g-code, adhesion, petg
--- |
thread-13843 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13843 | Upgrade hot-end to achieve higher temps (e.g. for PETG) | 2020-06-09T21:04:27.450 | # Question
Title: Upgrade hot-end to achieve higher temps (e.g. for PETG)
I'm struggling to get my printer to the temps required for modified PETG (the filament I have is Fillamentum CPE and recommends 255-275 °C), I currently can only reach 245/250 °C even if my target temperature is above that. The hot-end is fully ceramic wrapped and metal (no PTFE liner to worry about) and the printer is in a DIY heat shielded enclosure (non-heated).
The printer is an old (but gold) Wanhao Duplicator 4 (Rep 1 clone) with a MK8/9 extruder running a custom build of Sailfish. I know there is a firmware cap at 280 °C but that's fine, I don't intend to go above that.
Bar totally swapping out the extruder assembly what can I do to up the hot-end temperature, upgrade the power supply, heater cartridge?
# Answer
Most PETG reacts vey badly to temperatures above 255. The typical optimal PETG temperature ranges from 225 to 245. Above that it gets sticky...
If PETG is your goal, you might want to find a filament that is more friendly to your printer. They are pretty cheap, and now you have transitioned to an all-metal hot end, you should be good to go!
> 1 votes
---
Tags: hotend, petg, wanhao
--- |
thread-13836 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13836 | Ender 3 X-axis layer shifting | 2020-06-09T04:49:32.070 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 X-axis layer shifting
I've been having a problem lately with some minor layer shifting with my Ender 3. It just started recently and I've made no changes to the printer since it was working fine. The layer shifting is always on the X-axis and it's not a large amount. Just enough to render my prints useless. The shift can happen in either direction on the X-axis. See attached photo.
Things I've tried:
1. Retensioning the belts
2. Printing at slower speeds
3. Checking all bed connections to make sure the bed is solid
4. Reducing the jerk setting
5. Activating Z-hop
6. Reducing acceleration
7. Increased retraction.
The problem occurs on multiple STL files that used to work fine.
Any help would be appreciated
# Answer
OK I found the answer. I removed the extruder cover and found that the 2 screws attaching the extruder assembly were loose. A very simple fix to a very irritating problem.
> 12 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-13848 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13848 | How do I set up a 2 in 1 out extruder system in Marlin | 2020-06-10T22:22:48.883 | # Question
Title: How do I set up a 2 in 1 out extruder system in Marlin
Hi I recently upgraded my CR-10S motherboard to the SKR 1.3 with TMC2208 drivers, in addition, I added a 2 in 1 out extruder system, but I am unsure of how to set it up in Marlin. If anyone could provide me a list of the lines of code I need to comment / uncomment / change, or any other advice it would be greatly appreciated.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You need to change the amount of extruders in the `Configuration.h`:
Set 2 extruders by defining:
```
// @section extruder
// This defines the number of extruders
// :[0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]
#define EXTRUDERS 2
```
Define that you have a single nozzle:
```
// For Cyclops or any "multi-extruder" that shares a single nozzle.
#define SINGLENOZZLE
```
If you want to switch filament during a print, you need to write tool loading and unloading (tool changing) scripts for the slicer you use, also do print a filament prime/wipe tower that is large enough to purge the filament to prevent color mixing.
In case color mixing, you do not set the amount of extruders, instead you need to define that mixing is being used:
```
#define MIXING_EXTRUDER
```
furthermore, the amount of mixing stepper need to be defined:
```
#define MIXING_STEPPERS 2
```
---
Tags: marlin, creality-cr-10
--- |
thread-13854 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13854 | Do you need to manually level the bed with a BLTouch? Adhesion issues with Ender 5 and BLTouch 1.3 | 2020-06-11T14:22:45.507 | # Question
Title: Do you need to manually level the bed with a BLTouch? Adhesion issues with Ender 5 and BLTouch 1.3
I've just installed a BLTouch on my Ender 5 Pro and updated the firmware to 2.0.5.3 and enabled BL touch. I can send a `G29` which probes all the points correctly, I also get a readout of the results in OctoPrint terminal but when it puts a first layer down the filament does not adhere to the bed. I also end up with a large clump on filament stuck to my nozzle afterwards.
I've set the Z probe offset while the nozzle was in the center of the bed, and had a good grip on the piece of paper under it while setting it. I stored settings afterwards. I can't actually tell if the BL touch is even doing anything.
Do I need to manually level the bed before using the printer with a BLTouch? It currently has not been leveled since I assembled the printer. I guessed the BLTouch would handle this for me and I wouldn't need to level the bed ever?
These were the results from my `G29`:
```
-0.218, -0.148, -0.116, -0.088, -0.084
-0.194, -0.136, -0.115, -0.061, -0.020
-0.138, -0.035, +0.030, +0.091, +0.107
-0.008, +0.062, +0.129, +0.191, +0.261
+0.160, +0.261, +0.339, +0.411, +0.469
```
# Answer
## yes
Even with auto mesh bed leveling, you ought and should level the bed to a good degree to make the leveling not only more efficient: the mesh bed level is to work out small dimples and hills in the bed, bot to work with a crooked or heavily misaligned bed.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: bed-leveling, adhesion, bltouch, creality-ender-5
--- |
thread-8180 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8180 | Where to get the Slic3r configuration files for the 3D PrinterWorks Creatorbot printers? | 2019-02-06T15:57:30.457 | # Question
Title: Where to get the Slic3r configuration files for the 3D PrinterWorks Creatorbot printers?
I have a Creatorbot 3D printer made by 3D PrinterWorks. Their website appears to be down, as well as their Facebook page. To me it appears they are no longer around.
I've installed Slic3r as 3D PrinterWorks has recommended in the handbook but cannot download the settings for this from the 3D PrinterWorks website, since that is down.
Does anyone know where I can get the Slic3r configuration file for the Creatorbot?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Looks like 3dprinterworks.net went down sometime after March 2018 and 3dprinterworks.com went down in January 2019. Luckily the Wayback Machine still has the machine's specs.
Here is the instructions for entering settings in Slic3r as found here in lieu of importing a profile. (Please note that I have not used Slic3r so the following is solely based on the link)
The key settings under General are
* Bed size\*: X = 305 mm; Y = 305 mm; and Z = 457 mm
* Print center\**: X = 152.5 mm; Y = 152.5 mm
* Extruders: 2
* Heated Bed: Checked
Under Extruder (each extruder should have its own settings so be sure to set up both)
* Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
* Extruder 2 offset: 30.9 mm (good job, OP on finding the email stating this)
* Everything from Retraction and on is up to what works best for you
There may be a set of setting for acceleration (there is in Ultimaker Cura) which is 3000 mm/s<sup>2</sup> for most printers, I think. This is the max acceleration, not to be confused with acceleration settings when slicing the model.
The next set of settings, though outside of the Slic3r link, regards the filament. The diameter should be 1.75 mm and the nozzle temperature should be within the range of the filament (e.g. PLA should be set within 180-220 °C) and a heated bed set to 50-60 °C. These parameters are filament dependent and not printer dependent (other than diameter).
That should be the settings that a profile would set for you. Thankfully there's not too many.
---
```
*There is a wizard for this section that may make input easier, but here is the build volume.
**This setting may require whole numbers and may, in fact, not be a necessary setting at all.
```
# Answer
> 3 votes
The configuration files were on a flash drive that came with the printer. That being said, here is the file that was located on my flash drive for Slic3r (denoted as deprecated on March 1, 2017).
This is for a Creatorbot Pro II.
https://pastebin.com/j1dkSt8f
Save it as Slic3r\_config.ini and import it in to Slic3r.
Good luck!
---
Tags: slic3r, 3d-printerworks
--- |
thread-13852 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13852 | Can I replace the cooling fan blade for the hot end on creality ender 3? | 2020-06-11T09:17:25.497 | # Question
Title: Can I replace the cooling fan blade for the hot end on creality ender 3?
I broke one of the blades of the fan and that's making the x-box vibrate. Other than that it works fine and I can still print at a very low flow rate and a lot of noise. Will replacing the blades, not the whole fan work?
Found this and how to replace on thingyverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:186979
# Answer
It will work, but likely with reduced performances: designing blades is not an easy task and the ones you can print will not be as good as the ones designed for that specific fan.
Overall, do it for fun before you replace the fan anyway.
IF your fan has symmetrical blades (unlikely), another option is to break the opposite blade to balance the fan.
> 3 votes
# Answer
It's a standard part. You can find fitting replacement fans easily by searching for the dimensions and the voltage. It's better to use a molded part as it is smoother and lighter than any FDM printed one.
> 1 votes
# Answer
If you want to **play** then print new blades; if you want to **print** then swap the fan - but pay attention to: Voltage, current draw, rpm, fan thickness, etc.
Note: most fans are built to be disposable/replaceable. They are never built to be repaired, and as yet, nobody has succeeded in replicating the efficiency/balance/effectiveness of commercially available blades via 3D printing - and many in the Drone world have tried and died!
If you decide to replace, ideally you want EXACTLY the same fan as a replacement - even if it costs more than something similar. When you get seasoned, you can upgrade and improve, but until then, similar is not good enough...
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, hotend, cooling, replacement-parts, print-fan
--- |
thread-13572 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13572 | Filament suitable for direct burial | 2020-05-02T16:37:33.353 | # Question
Title: Filament suitable for direct burial
I'm working on a project with will be buried in soil. It's an enclosure for a sensor that will be potted inside the 3D printed part. What filament will give me the longest life in soil?
ETA: burial will be permanent, and I'd like it to last at least five years.
ETA: The printed part will provide mechanical support for the sensor, so it needs to retain most of its mechanical properties.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I would recommend PETG - only because it is structurally similar to the plastic used in the bottles that last forever, and most PETG is food grade - implying that its chemical stability should be reasonably good...
# Answer
> 0 votes
If TPU ends up not being rigid enough for you: I've had good enough luck with ABS coated in automotive RTV.
Thing with ABS though is that it's a special (not so)"solid" that gets softer as it gets hotter. My use had water in it when warm so wasn't too much of an issue, and it never experienced freezing temperatures.
Also it hasn't been 5 years yet. ~2 years and counting.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Instead of TPU or ABS, you might also want to try ASA. It has a better resistance against weather, so it might help you here.
Here is a little article about ASA filament: Article
And this article lists its pros as having a strong UV resistance, high wear and impact resistance, and high glass transition temperature.
Overall, you might want to give this a try. Hope it helps!
---
Tags: filament-choice
--- |
thread-5492 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5492 | Getting PLA to stick to a cold bed | 2018-02-14T06:52:42.273 | # Question
Title: Getting PLA to stick to a cold bed
Right now my heated bed is down and I had no time to try and fix it and I am trying to print something for a friend. I am having the PLA lift around the edges which I have NEVER experienced. The glue is not helping like it did with the heat. And I also tried rubbing alcohol on the masking tape I use, heard that helps and it was not that much better than the glue stick. What can I do to keep the plastic sticking to the bed during print.
I will note that the lift is not super bad, but I do like the littlest of lift on any print.
# Answer
Most of the same reccomendations that apply for adhesion to a hot bed apply for a cold one. The first ones to come to mind:
* really dial in the nozzle height
* make the first layer taller than the rest (e.g.: 0.2mm if the rest of your print is 0.1mm)
* print the first layer very slowly
* print the first layer at higher temperature
* use a brim or a raft (on my first printer, that had no heated bed, rafts gave the least deformation)
* turn off the part fan for the first layer
* adapt your model to reduce twisting forces (relief cuts, print it in parts, choose orientation wisely, etc...)
If your slicer has this feature, you could also try to print with a shroud.
> 9 votes
# Answer
**Fresh** 3M blue painter’s tape coated in a watered down solution of Elmer’s white glue works wonders - even when cold - for PLA.
The tape needs to be re-applied and coated for each print for it to **really** stick, but it beats every other print surface I have tested for PLA other than PEI @ 70 °C. I’m guessing it has something to do with microscopic surface fibers on the tape...
(I like to print PETG as well, and that sticks too well to PEI, so I use blue 3M tape for both.)
> 2 votes
---
Tags: pla, adhesion, anet-a6
--- |
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