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thread-12134
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12134
|
2x scaling of Monoprice Mini Select v2 Firmware v30.50b after factory reset?
|
2020-03-07T04:42:16.830
|
# Question
Title: 2x scaling of Monoprice Mini Select v2 Firmware v30.50b after factory reset?
About a year ago, a bad print encased my hotend in PLA and I broke the wires due to my impatience trying to get the glob of PLA off.
I don't remember the details of the disaster print, but generally the printer was working fine except I now know I was heating the bed too high and causing warped prints that I was trying to avoid by raising the bed temp.
I'm trying to salvage the printer now, I bought a new hotend and build plate sticker. I don't want to name the supplier because I'm pretty sure these parts are irrelevant and I don't want this to seem like an advertisement. Anyways, install was pretty easy, I didn't disconnect any of the axis or feeder steppers control wires - just the hotend heater and thermistor.
I don't think it should have anything to do with the bad print or the replacement parts, but now when I print I'm having major calibration issues. My entire print seems to be 2x scaled up. This is causing skipped stepper steps, grinding, etc for completely bad prints.
I ran at least part of a factory reset program before any trial prints because it was recommended online somewhere (which displayed weird 50 % complete message and that's all). I most suspect the factory reset as my problem. After the reset, I needed to flip the Y axis with an additional G-code instruction before it would home to the correct corner instead of grinding to the top-back-left.
```
M502 ; Restores default settings
M562 Y ; Reverse Y -- I had to add this to even get it to work as well as it does.
M500 ; Saves the settings to EEPROM
```
I have read that I can adjust the axis scaling by an arbitrary factor with additional G-codes, but since I didn't mess with the printer other than the program above, I don't expect my scaling factor to be off by a random value, but more a common value that ALL mini select v2s need that I erased. But I am not finding info about this.
I am using Cura 4.5 and Cura knows I'm using a Mini Select v2 and the model I've loaded is known to Cura to be the right dimensions.
In the picture, you can see that Cura shows it is centered on the bed, but it actually prints off center. Also, the finished print is about 2x scaled in all three axes and lacks the material density of a correct print - it's printing only enough plastic for the correct size print, but spreading it over the scaled-up volume. The steppers are also skipping steps (I guess) so there are a few layer shifts in this print. What a mess! (It's supposed to say it's dimension on the top - "23 mm" but it actually measures about 46 mm but hard to say exactly due to the other print issues)
# Answer
Thanks for the comments! They led me to find this solution using PuTTY on Windows as my serial (COM) terminal. I guess one of my resets put the settings to 1/16th stepping whereas my hardware has 1/8th stepping.
<pre><code>> M115
NAME: Malyan VER: 3.0 MODEL: M200 HW: HA04
ok N0 P15 B15
> M503
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X93.00 Y93.00 Z1097.50 E97.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X150.00 Y150.00 Z1.50 E50.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X800 Y800 Z20 E10000
echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel
echo: M204 P1500.00 R3000.00 T1500.00
echo:Advanced variables:
S=Min feedrate (mm/s),
T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s),
B=minimum segment time (ms),
X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s),
Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s),
E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Invert axis: M562 XYZE
XYZABCD++-+-+-
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P20.00 I0.02 D250.00 C100.00 L20
echo: M304 P10.00 I0.02 D305.40
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo: M200 D1.75
echo: M200 D0
ok N0 P15 B15
> M92 X46.50 Y46.50 Z548.75 E48.50 ; from https://www.mpselectmini.com/howto/steps_per_unit_mm
> M562 Y ; Invert Y because it was Homing to the wrong corner
> M206 X0.00 Y-2.00 Z0.00 ; Inverting the values from M114 once good Home manually found.
> G0 X0 Y0 ; testing the range of motion
> G0 X0 Y120 ; testing the range of motion
> G0 X120 Y120 ; testing the range of motion
> G0 X120 Y0 ; testing the range of motion
> M500 ; this saves the new values to EEPROM
```
</code></pre>
> 2 votes
---
Tags: calibration, monoprice-select-mini
---
|
thread-12121
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12121
|
Anet A8 Marlin BLtouch moves up instead of down during homing
|
2020-03-03T13:16:33.677
|
# Question
Title: Anet A8 Marlin BLtouch moves up instead of down during homing
I have a previously working Anet A8 that I just flashed to Marlin 1.1.9 (bugfix) and installed a real BLtouch sensor. I followed setup instructions and believe my wiring is correct. When I try to do a `G28`, the extruder moves to the front left corner properly, then moved to center the BLtouch over the bed. Then, it moves up instead of down, the BLtouch drops the probe, the extruder moves up again, the BLtouch drops the probe again and the extruder moves up again until the carriage is near the top. Using Pronterface I can move the carriage back down, but have to use `M211 S0` to let me get it close to the table. X, Y and Z move properly in Pronterface. I have changed the relevant settings in Marlin and recompiled with no success. The BLtouch does it's self test correctly and I can control the probe with commands.
# Answer
SOLVED -- The problem turned out to be that the BLtouch was set up for 3.3 V and my Anet board is 5 V. The docs were not clear on what the BL defaulted to and I mistakenly thought 5 V. After I did a `M280 P0 S140` command, the carriage would home properly with `G28`. Why it was going up instead of down was a Red Herring. I changed the settings in `configuration_adv.h` to force 5 V and did the EEPROM one time write. Now the A8 works correctly. Thank you for your help Oscar.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8, bltouch
---
|
thread-12135
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12135
|
Y Axis motor is really loud
|
2020-03-07T11:04:27.693
|
# Question
Title: Y Axis motor is really loud
The Y-axis motor is really loud. The pitch of the sound varies depending the angle of the motor (in some angles the motor is silent, in others it's louder than a fan). I am looking for a solution because this is by far the loudest component of my printer. Is there any settings that could help making this motor quieter? If not, should I replace the motor or the board?
Here is a short clip of the sound of the motor:
# Answer
The sounds are mainly caused by the bed resonating with the stepper motor, and this will vary with the speed of the stepper motor. The best solution is to use "silent" stepper motor drivers (e.g. Trinamic), but you may be able to reduce the noise by:
* Reducing the belt tension as much as possible.
* Changing your print and/or move speeds.
* Fitting a stepper motor damper.
* Fitting TL smoothers (if you have A4988 drivers), although their efficacy is controversial.
I have done all of the above with good results.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: anet-a8, motor, nema-17
---
|
thread-12137
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12137
|
Marlin 2.0.x bugfix 2nd extruder not working
|
2020-03-07T14:46:47.857
|
# Question
Title: Marlin 2.0.x bugfix 2nd extruder not working
I am using the SKR PRO board on a dual extruder 3D printer. I have tried Curaengine and Slic3r in Repetier-host. The printer firmware is handling the offset fine (it prints in the right spot for extruder 2 when it switches extruders) but it won't extrude any filament. When I type in T1 and manually extrude with the buttons in reetier-host it extrudes just fine. I have let it go for several layers without seeing any extrusion from the 2nd extruder. The main extruder works fine and doesn't extrude while the 2nd one is selected. Here is some of the g-code from curaengine slicing the dual extruder calibration cube.
```
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 15.01
; Default start code
G28 ; Home extruder
G1 Z15 F100
M107 ; Turn off fan
G90 ; Absolute positioning
M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode
M190 S50
; Activate all used extruder
M104 T0 S200
M104 T1 S200
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position
; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature
M109 T0 S200
M109 T1 S200
;Layer count: 100
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F6000 X-10.960 Y3.540 Z0.200
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F1800 X-10.960 Y12.456 E0.26689
G1 X-23.956 Y12.456 E0.65592
G1 X-23.956 Y-0.540 E1.04494
G1 X-15.040 Y-0.540 E1.31183
G1 X-15.040 Y-23.540 E2.00032
G1 X12.040 Y-23.540 E2.81093
G1 X12.040 Y3.540 E3.62155
G1 X-10.960 Y3.540 E4.31003
G0 F6000 X-11.320 Y3.180
G1 F1800 X-11.320 Y12.096 E4.57693
G1 X-23.596 Y12.096 E4.94440
G1 X-23.596 Y-0.180 E5.31187
G1 X-14.680 Y-0.180 E5.57876
G1 X-14.680 Y-23.180 E6.26725
G1 X11.680 Y-23.180 E7.05631
G1 X11.680 Y3.180 E7.84537
G1 X-11.320 Y3.180 E8.53386
G1 F2400 E3.53386
G0 F6000 X-10.960 Y-10.540
;TYPE:WALL-INNER
G1 F2400 E8.53386
G1 F1800 X-10.960 Y-19.460 E8.80087
G1 X-2.040 Y-19.460 E9.06788
G1 X-2.040 Y-10.540 E9.33490
G1 X-10.960 Y-10.540 E9.60191
G0 F6000 X-11.320 Y-10.180
;TYPE:WALL-OUTER
G1 F1800 X-11.320 Y-19.820 E9.89047
G1 X-1.680 Y-19.820 E10.17904
G1 X-1.680 Y-10.180 E10.46760
G1 X-11.320 Y-10.180 E10.75617
G0 F6000 X-10.411 Y-10.665
;TYPE:SKIN
G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-11.088 E10.77405
G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-11.597
G1 F1800 X-9.902 Y-10.665 E10.81349
G0 F6000 X-9.393 Y-10.665
G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-12.106 E10.87447
G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-12.615
G1 F1800 X-8.884 Y-10.665 E10.95700
G0 F6000 X-8.374 Y-10.665
G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-13.124 E11.06109
G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-13.633
G1 F1800 X-7.865 Y-10.665 E11.18674
G0 F6000 X-7.356 Y-10.665
G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-14.142 E11.33393
G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-14.651
G1 F1800 X-6.847 Y-10.665 E11.50267
G0 F6000 X-6.338 Y-10.665
G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-15.161 E11.69298
G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-15.670
G1 F1800 X-5.829 Y-10.665 E11.90484
G0 F6000 X-5.320 Y-10.665
G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-16.179 E12.13824
G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-16.688
G1 F1800 X-4.811 Y-10.665 E12.39319
G0 F6000 X-4.302 Y-10.665
G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-17.197 E12.66969
G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-17.706
G1 F1800 X-3.792 Y-10.665 E12.96776
G0 F6000 X-3.283 Y-10.665
G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-18.215 E13.28738
G0 F6000 X-10.833 Y-18.724
G1 F1800 X-2.774 Y-10.665 E13.62854
G0 F6000 X-2.265 Y-10.665
G1 F1800 X-10.833 Y-19.234 E13.99127
G0 F6000 X-10.423 Y-19.333
G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-11.075 E14.34086
G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-11.584
G1 F1800 X-9.914 Y-19.333 E14.66890
G0 F6000 X-9.405 Y-19.333
G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-12.093 E14.97540
G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-12.602
G1 F1800 X-8.896 Y-19.333 E15.26034
G0 F6000 X-8.386 Y-19.333
G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-13.111 E15.52372
G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-13.620
G1 F1800 X-7.877 Y-19.333 E15.76555
G0 F6000 X-7.368 Y-19.333
G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-14.130 E15.98580
G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-14.639
G1 F1800 X-6.859 Y-19.333 E16.18452
G0 F6000 X-6.350 Y-19.333
G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-15.148 E16.36168
G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-15.657
G1 F1800 X-5.841 Y-19.333 E16.51730
G0 F6000 X-5.332 Y-19.333
G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-16.166 E16.65137
G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-16.675
G1 F1800 X-4.823 Y-19.333 E16.76389
G0 F6000 X-4.314 Y-19.333
G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-17.184 E16.85486
G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-17.693
G1 F1800 X-3.804 Y-19.333 E16.92427
G0 F6000 X-3.295 Y-19.333
G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-18.203 E16.97211
G0 F6000 X-2.165 Y-18.712
G1 F1800 X-2.786 Y-19.333 E16.99839
G0 F6000 X-2.277 Y-19.333
G1 F1800 X-2.165 Y-19.221 E17.00314
G92 E0
G1 F2400 E-5.00000
T1
G0 F6000 X-14.500 Y3.000
;TYPE:SUPPORT
G1 F2400 E0.00000
G1 F1800 X-14.500 Y8.916 E0.17709
G1 X-20.416 Y8.916 E0.35418
G1 X-20.416 Y3.000 E0.53127
G1 X-14.500 Y3.000 E0.70836
G0 F6000 X-14.878 Y2.940
G1 F1800 X-14.439 Y3.379 E0.72695
G0 F6000 X-14.439 Y3.945
'''
```
# Answer
Turns out that the Left and Right extruders turn the opposite direction so once I inverted E1 in marlin it is working fine.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, ultimaker-cura, diy-3d-printer, repetier, repetier-host
---
|
thread-12142
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12142
|
SLA printing: piece does not stick to supporting structures
|
2020-03-08T10:42:17.520
|
# Question
Title: SLA printing: piece does not stick to supporting structures
I am trying to print a box shaped object with an ELEGOO Mars SLA printer. I positioned the piece rotating it on X and Y axis 35 and 30 degrees. However, the print fails because the piece does not stick to the supporting structure (see picture).
Do you think that it could be a problem of the piece sticking to the display due to overexposure or deteriorated film? Or is it something else? I tried two prints, lowering the exposure time from 8 to 6 seconds, the second print still failed but at least the piece is not totally stuck to the display.
Any other idea?
First failed print with 8 seconds exposure: the film was completely jammed and all the resin was stuck there (this is why there is no piece on top of the supporting material)
Second failed print with 6 seconds exposure: the film was perfectly clean, but the object did not stick to the supporting materials therefore collapsing.
This is the 3D drawing
# Answer
I have tried to print the piece upside-down with the cave part facing down and it worked. Since the printer prints upside down, positioning the cave part facing up creates a suction-cup effect on the printer display that makes the whole structure stick to the lcd and detach from the supporting structure, thus making the print fail.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: support-structures, sla, print-failure, support-material, elegoo-mars
---
|
thread-12144
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12144
|
Marlin bed autoleveling confusion
|
2020-03-08T18:38:27.507
|
# Question
Title: Marlin bed autoleveling confusion
I've just added a Z-Probe sensor to my custom printer (`Arduino` \- `RAMPS 1.4` \- `Marlin 2` default disabled EEPROM) but now I'm confused. Printer seems to work but I cannot configure the right nozzle height.
I use `Pronterface` and before start printing I send `G29` code. Printer succesfully ends bed calibration. At this point I start printing but the printer seems to ignore the calibration (no bed compensation).
Do I need to run other commands to tell printer to use the previous calibration?
# Answer
> 1 votes
When the printer ignores the scanned topology (grid) of the bed this means that the levelling is not active. `G29` activates the `M420` to enable the grid. A `G28` after scanning the bed will reset this.
You need to make sure that the start G-code (this is an optional script that is pasted before the sliced object) contains both the `G28` and the `G29`, where the `G28` is placed above the `G29` on separate lines.
For each slicer this is defined in different places, bit if you use Pronterface for slicing, a good chance is that it uses the Slic3r engine. If I open an STL for slicing in Pronterface, it starts loading Slic3r.exe; this brings up the GUI for Slic3r which has options to define/modify the start G-code.
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling, z-probe
---
|
thread-12122
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12122
|
Bizarre Underextrusion Issue
|
2020-03-04T03:40:01.700
|
# Question
Title: Bizarre Underextrusion Issue
Printer: SecKit Go w/ BMG/v6 and SKR v1.3/TMC2130 Drivers
Slicer: Simplify3d or Cura (problem is much worse in Cura?)
Long story short - after getting this printer running, I have noticed that it will underextrude ONLY on corners on an internal perimeter specifically once we're above bottom layers - and nowhere else. See below:
E-Steps have been calibrated, extrusion multiplier has been calibrated (single perimeters are 0.48 mm), linear advance has been calibrated, but here it gets weird. Anything resembling a 'standard' value (suggested between 1-2) results in MASSIVE underextrusion after the speed change. I was able to get a good looking line using the linear advance test with a value of 0.15 (which seems very low).
Retraction (1 mm @ 30 mm/s), junction deviation (0.02) and all other settings are off the factory Simplify3d profile. Turning linear advance off makes the problem slightly better but doesn't fix it, going to a value of around 1 results in huge underextrusion after any change in direction.
I am absolutely lost as to what to try next.
# Answer
From what I can find, the SecKit Go has a direct drive extruder, so 0.15 is a very reasonable linear advance K value. For comparison, I have 0.6 for PLA with a bowden. Values in the range 1-2 are way too high for direct drive except *possibly* for really soft TPU.
Geometrically localized underextrusion almost always means you have either
* loss of material due to oozing elsewhere, or
* filament slippage
usually due to whatever's being printed just before the part with the underextrusion. If it's oozing you may need to increase retraction or disable or limit combing in your slicer (to prevent unretracted moves; these can ooze a lot of material when crossing infill areas). If it's slippage it could be from trying to print too fast.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I switched over to PrusaSlic3r and 99% of the issue went away even with copying settings straight over.
Maybe Cura/S3D handle internal walls differently?
> 1 votes
---
Tags: underextrusion
---
|
thread-12143
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12143
|
ELEGOO Mars failed prints every time
|
2020-03-08T18:02:00.230
|
# Question
Title: ELEGOO Mars failed prints every time
So I just recently bought the ELEGOO Mars SLA Printer... the first model I made turned out okay. It was a small helmet. Only 3 out of the 9 small helmets made it; so I thought it was my bed... I re-leveled my bed and went for it again. Stuck to the FEP film. I did research and sanded the bed for better adhesion, nothing, changed my FEP film something printed but it was considered failed as there were some cracks. I changed settings on my printer software, ChiTu Box Slicing Software, I even did the recommended settings and custom settings I found on YouTube, and still nothing.
The only variables I have not changed are the FEP film again, as it could be too tight. And different resin. I'm currently using the Grey ELegoo resin... Or replacing my LCD Screen.. If y'all can help it would mean a ton!
# Answer
let's go step by step - and rule out the unlikely sources. Since you get at least *some* results, UV source and screen seem unlikely. Then you might want to make sure that the resin is ok. Let's try to put a droplet onto a sheet of paper/foil, which you tape down outside in the sun or under a UV light source - if it cures, the resin is ok.
The first real step is to check your bed leveling. Go exactly by the handbook - you might be a tad far from the bed, which leads to sticking to the film.
Then make sure your film is intact. You might need to swap resin vats to do that. in case the film is damaged, you have to swap it.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-failure, elegoo-mars
---
|
thread-12153
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153
|
Updating Marlin Firmware - Step by Step Guide
|
2020-03-10T09:20:02.260
|
# Question
Title: Updating Marlin Firmware - Step by Step Guide
***Note****: This question is meant as a wiki to include all steps that are needed to update your printer with a self configured Marlin firmware version. The answer is a wiki that is currently in development and can be seen (and edited) by all users.*
---
I have a printer and need to update my Marlin firmware to get some stuff done to my liking, especially to make sure I have TRP, have power loss recovery and then do a PID-tune. I am also not sure if a bootloader is flashed. So what I need is a step-by-step guide to:
* prepare my printer for flashing
* configure my Marlin firmware
* get my new Marlin firmware onto my printer
# Answer
> 6 votes
# Step 0: extracting old settings & setting up
The first step is to get yourself a printing software that has a Console or Terminal like present in Repetier Host, Pronterface (as part of the Printrun software suite), OctoPrint or any other tool (e.g. serial connection with PuTTY also works) that allows to communicate with the printer to extract the settings we already have. Once we have the software installed and the printer connected, send `M503` and copy the old settings into a file for later use.
Next, we need our development surroundings. Usually, you want to use Arduino IDE (but the PlatformIO plugin as part of Visual Studio Code can be used for both Arduino based microprocessors as 32-bit processors), but you need to know what kind of board the control board of your printer is derived from because some boards have native IDEs that work better for them.
# Step 1: Choice of Firmware
By some metrics of early 2020, about 80 % of all shipped machines run Marlin in some fashion<sup>need citation</sup>. The most prolific versions of Marlin at that point are often cited to be 1.1.9 and 2.x. Since anything before 1.1.9 is very much obsolete and needs an update anyway, we will look into 1.1.9 and 2.x only. Version 2.x was developed to include 32-bit microprocessors, but is compatible with 8-bit microprocessor printer boards. As the version jump indicates though, 2.x is pretty much an entire rewrite, so do your choice and jump to the correct next step.
## Marlin 1.1.x
Typically, you start by grabbing a blank Marlin 1.1.9. The next step is to alter the static settings of the printer to match yours in `Configuration.h` \- best use the settings from what we pulled earlier via `M503` as a start. Alternatively, you can search for a configuration of your printer between known configuration files. You should at least need to adjust these:
For communications and filament diameter:
```
#define BAUDRATE 250000
// Generally expected filament diameter (1.75, 2.85, 3.0, ...). Used for Volumetric, Filament Width Sensor, etc.
#define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 3.0
```
Choose your correct temperature tables, and make sure to turn on the one for the bed if you have one!
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
[...]
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0
```
Next come two blocks that set the 'this is ok' temperature area, for the hotends and bed respectively (only hotend shown here).
```
// Extruder temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.
```
The next slot is an important safety feature: Mintemp and Maxtemp. Unless you seriously, positively know your hotend can do more than 275 °C (which means you have an all-metal hotend), **DON'T** touch the Maxtemp, but you might set Mintemp to 0 °C if you like.
Next come PID-Tuning settings, you only need to work with those if you know what you are doing.
The next step is important also: make positively sure that these two lines are exactly as follows, no stray `//` in front to comment them out. This is **TRP**.
```
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS // Enable thermal protection for all extruders
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed
```
If your printer is a CoreXY or similarily uses 2 belts for moving along 2 axis, you look at the Mechanical Settings tab and alter it there, otherwise we skip further to the Endstop Settings. Enable (remove the leading `//`) the max-endstops if you have them, the rest is usually not necessary on most consumer-grade machines, then go further to the Movement Settings. From our `M503` we grab the settings to fill out the following:
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 5, 25 }
```
If you have a probe, you look into Z-Probe Options and follow 0scar's guide here, skip it otherwise until you find the next snippet. Fix that one up to fit your bed and movement area. You might need to set values for the endstop to bed origin distance. These offsets, `X_MIN_POS` and `Y_MIN_POS`, need to contain the correct values to center the bed; see "How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset) ".
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 200
#define Y_BED_SIZE 200
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 0 // Value of zero means that the origin of the bed is at the endstop
#define Y_MIN_POS 0 // Value of zero means that the origin of the bed is at the endstop
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
```
Next, uncomment (remove the leading `//`) the following line:
```
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands
```
If you want to have a special pause position, uncomment and define it in
```
//#define NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE
#if ENABLED(NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE)
// Specify a park position as { X, Y, Z }
#define NOZZLE_PARK_POINT { (X_MIN_POS + 10), (Y_MAX_POS - 10), 20 }
#define NOZZLE_PARK_XY_FEEDRATE 100 // X and Y axes feedrate in mm/s (also used for delta printers Z axis)
#define NOZZLE_PARK_Z_FEEDRATE 5 // Z axis feedrate in mm/s (not used for delta printers)
#endif
```
We are on the finishing stretch, just a few things in this file remaining! Select your language with the line:
```
#define LCD_LANGUAGE en
```
Turn on the SD-Card slot by uncommenting
```
//#define SDSUPPORT
```
The last step we need to alter in the `Configuration.h` is choosing the correct LCD controller. Uncomment the line corresponding to your printer - you might need to use a generic option.
## Marlin 2.x
Again, grab the 2.x marlin, either the blank base or a preconfigured version. For some printer styles (like Delta), you have to take a specialized set. Then we look at our `M503`output and set our communications Baudrate and our motherboard (or the board it is derived from), then the number of extruders and the filament diameter:
```
#define BAUDRATE 250000
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
#endif
#define EXTRUDERS 1
#define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 3.0
```
Next we go to thermal settings! We need the correct temperature sensor table for hotend and bed, possibly we could lower MINTEMP to 0. **Don't** touch MAXTEMP unless you know what you're doing and have a full-metal setup and you know your machine can take more.
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
[...]
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0
```
Our next step is **making positively sure that TRP is on**. Make sure these lines have no leading `//`
```
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS // Enable thermal protection for all extruders
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_CHAMBER // Enable thermal protection for the heated chamber
```
If the printer is a CoreXY or similar, enable the style in the mechanical settings area.
Enable (remove the leading //) the max-endstops if you have them, the rest is usually not necessary on most consumer-grade machines, then go further to the Movement Settings. From our M503 we grab the settings to fill out the following:
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 5, 25 }
```
If you have a probe, you need to set it up - 0scar has a partial guide \- and it is all in the Z Probe Options area! Otherwise, go on. We need to go down, and in the middle of the Probe setup, we find the bed settings. Set them up to fit your printer and possibly the offset from the home-switches to the build volume corner.
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 200
#define Y_BED_SIZE 200
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
```
Down to Additional Features we go! Let's turn on the EEPROM by uncommenting (removing the `//`)...
```
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Persistent storage with M500 and M501
```
...and think about how you want to set up your preheats or where to have your special park position. But then comes the last part, which we really need to do: Set up the interface. Start by changing the language and turn on the SD-Slot by uncommenting the lower of these lines:
```
#define LCD_LANGUAGE en
//#define SDSUPPORT
```
Our last stop on setting up the basics is LCD / Controller Selection. We need to uncomment the right one here. If you don't find yours, use a generic one.
# Step 2: Preparing the Board
There are 2 variants here: either you use a bootloader, or you prepare a .hex file for overwriting the whole firmware. In either case, we need to know what board we have, so we can compile with the correct encoding and setup. You might need to install a proper extension!
## 2.1 - Bootloader
A lot of boards come with a pre-flashed bootloader, which makes installing and revising software very fast. But not all boards have one flashed.
Flashing a bootloader needs you to have an Arduino and some cables or a different ISP or AVR programming tool. Complete instructions can be found here by Greenonline and here by Robert Lo Giacco and jpa.
Or you take your control board to your local maker space and ask someone there to help you flash the bootloader - most maker spaces have at least someone that has an Arduino and can help you!
## 2.2 - .hex file
In this case, we don't need to do anything in *this* step. We'll have a different installation process though.
# Step 3: Compiling & Installing Firmware
Depending on your choice in the previous Step, you have to follow the corresponding branch here:
## 3.1 - Bootloader
If you have set your bootloader, now installing firmware is as simple as connecting your computer with the printer using a direct connection and doing a compile & Upload command.
## 3.2 - .hex file
After preparing your .hex file, you can upload it with one of the variants shown here by Greenonline, Trish or Thomas Weller
# Step 4: Finishing touches
### Seeding
Directly after installing up our new firmware on the printer, we **need** to seed our settings. Connect to the printer via any Console or Terminal (see Step 0) and use these commands
```
M502
M500
```
### PID Tune
Then we run a PID-Tune. For the first extruder we send:
```
M303 E0 S200 C3
```
It will run the machine some and return values named Kp, Ki & Kd. These directly correspond with P I & D. Store them into the EEPROM and save with the following:
```
M301 P##.## I#.## D##.##
M500
```
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, knowledgebase
---
|
thread-12158
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12158
|
Cura Parameter Confusion: Initial Layer Flow Rate
|
2020-03-10T17:54:59.613
|
# Question
Title: Cura Parameter Confusion: Initial Layer Flow Rate
I have a LultzBot TAZ 6 3D printer and the software I use for my prints is "Cura LulzBot Edition - 3.6.3". Recently, I have begun to play around with the parameters in Cura relating to initial layer adhesion. One such parameter is the `Initial Layer Flow Rate`.
Now, after manipulating this parameter several times and evaluating the pieces that have been printed subsequently, it seems quite apparent to me that a manipulation in this parameter is affecting all subsequent layers that are printed.
For example, if I **increase** the `Initial Layer Flow Rate` from the default setting of 100 % to 130 %, layer 2, layer 3,...layer n all appear to be printed at at a flow rate of 130 % resulting in prints that are clearly "overextruded" (e.g. the finished surfaces are incredibly uneven, bumpy, etc).
Similarly, if I **decrease** the `Initial Layer Flow Rate` from the default setting 100 % to 70 %...all subsequent layers are clearly underextruded (e.g. walls are not connected at all and floor/ceiling have visible gaps).
Why is this happening? Directly above the Initial Layer Flow Rate parameter is a parent setting that is simply named "Flow". (refer to below picture)
Do I need to manipulate flow in order to avoid this from happening?
All I want to do is change **exclusively** the initial layer's flow rate (for better adhesion on larger pieces)...but my current method is not accomplishing this. Any suggestions?
$\color{red}{\text{EDIT}}$ \- After reading the comments, I just wanted to clarify that I have let my parts "be printed to completion". The obersvations that I am making about underextrusion or overextrusion are in reference to the *total structure* (not just the first several layers). These are large structures (~12 hour prints).
# Answer
If you're over- or under-extruding by a 30% margin, there is going to be so much excess or deficiency of material in the first layer that it will take a few layers to "catch up". Normally you would only adjust the flow by 5% or at most 10% unless you're using it to correct for compression of the filament in the extruder gear (for flexible filaments), but adjusting first layer flow only is *always a hack* to work around incorrect bed height or adhesion problems. You'd do much better to figure out the right solution to whatever problem you're trying to solve with flow.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, lulzbot-taz-6
---
|
thread-10767
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10767
|
LCD for SLA 3D printer resin curing
|
2019-08-06T22:14:22.877
|
# Question
Title: LCD for SLA 3D printer resin curing
I'm doing some research on what types of LCD displays can be used to filter and pass UV light for resin curing - specifically in the context of building a DIY 3D SLA printer.
The community commonly uses the Sharp LS055R1SX03 module. Looking through the datasheet, there doesn't seem to be any information pertaining to the characteristics of the device when passing UV wavelengths. Is there something special about this module that allows it to filter/pass UV wavelengths compared to other common LCD displays?
# Answer
Hmm I seen videos off people pealing filters off of lcd screens to let uv pass through.
I believe the sharp unit maybe popular because not all lcds have square pixels and have poor pixel alignment towards the edges, (the focus of the eye can only take in so much information why waste materials producing inperceptable rises in quality, much like having a 8k small screen unless the picture is static your hard pushed to notice difference).
There is also diffraction to think about, crystal size in the resin, oxygen membrane or delamination layer to stop cured resin sticking to lcd, I think there are projects of floating resin on another liquid (fluorinated oils work).
Even with better resolution(4k,) the voxel size does not increase in a linear manner, unless the uv light source is focused an colimated like in a lazer.
I don't know much its just info I've gleaned whilst browsing, I'm sure someone will correct any inaccuracies.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I am not an expert by any stretch but I hope this helps, but these are regular old TFT LCD screens. You can even get 4K ones and use them for the same process. You can for example pick up 4K displays such as the H546UAN01.0 and do the same with them.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: resin, uv-printer, lcd-screen
---
|
thread-12171
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12171
|
Marlin NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET with glass
|
2020-03-13T10:12:10.530
|
# Question
Title: Marlin NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET with glass
In my custom printer I have probe and nozzle at same height and configured Marlin this way:
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 43, -20, 0 }
```
On the bed I've a 2 mm glass. How I need to change the configuration? Do I need to act adding a positive Z offset? like this?
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 43, -20, 2 }
```
# Answer
You can define the probe offset (or better the trigger point to bed level distance) in the array definition of `NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET`, but it is not the usual and logical place to do that. Instead you position the probe higher than the nozzle and define the offset later when calibrating the bed level. A positive value is a positive offset, Z+.
---
This answer is intended to be a more generic answer for Z-offset determination. The question is not clear on what kind of Z-probe is used. In case of a touch (or an inductive or a capacitive) probe, a probe trigger point defines how far the probe needs to be from the bed level (the sensor is always placed higher than the nozzle). This trigger point is a measure for the offset and used to determine the distance of the nozzle to the bed print surface (using the offset). Correct installation is trivial, as is the determination of the nozzle to trigger point definition. For a touch sensor, the probing element is either stowed, fully deployed, or pushed in during leveling up to the point that the trigger point is reached and the probe stowes the rest of the pin, see figure:
The `M851 Zxx.xx` offset is determined by lowering the nozzle beyond the trigger point until the nozzle hits a sheet of paper. If the stowed position to nozzle distance is used, the distance is too large and the nozzle will dive into the bed on printing. A similar sketch for inductive/capacitive proximity probes can be drawn.
> 3 votes
# Answer
# No.
You define the Z-Value of the Nozzle to Probe offset mainly to get avoidance of collisions, but it is checked nowhere in the firmware code at all. Usually, the probe is mounted a millimeter or so above the nozzle anyway: you mount it in such a fashion that it triggers when the nozzle has the correct distance to the bed.
If you alter the bed by altering the distance between the nozzle and the metal part of the bed, you might need to alter the physical position of the probe to get the printer to trigger at the correct height, but you don't necessarily need to add a Z-offset.
You might, however, want to include it in the slicer for the case you want to print items in a sequence, which forces most slicers to try to do an error-avoidance pattern.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, nozzle, z-probe
---
|
thread-12175
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12175
|
Casual under-extruding on Ender 3 (don't know what to do anymore!)
|
2020-03-13T17:52:51.177
|
# Question
Title: Casual under-extruding on Ender 3 (don't know what to do anymore!)
I own an Ender 3 that I bought in December 2018. I have now a problem with under extrusion that I don't know how to solve. I tried everything: I changed the nozzle, changed the PTFE, changed the filament, dismantled the hotend and controlled that nothing was blocking the flow. The problem is that it isn't a normal under extrusion: in fact, the printing starts quite well, then for some reason the filament doesn't flow anymore. If I try to push the filament I feel like there is a gap that, if I continue pushing, it's "filled" and then the plastic continues to flow normally for some time. And when it has to do very little parts of the printing, this problem occurs, and the final result is a disaster. I hope someone can help me because I don't know what to do. The photos show the condition of the printing, and I have also a brief video that explains the situation better. I added also an image of the original CAD file, so you can see how it should have been, and another project where you can see missing layers when things get "difficult" to print (but, in the past, the printer worked perfectly with such projects!) and a simple parallelepiped, that the printer printed perfectly (I assume it's because it never stops sending filament, I don't know). Thank you for your time.
DropBox link for the photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xav38c8tw8mgs8h/AAA7VGypWIrIR0RwB4Ih3O7ma?dl=0
YouTube link for the video (I recorded the printer printing and made a video with the most important moments such as when there is under extrusion; the video lasts 4 minutes and it can help you find the problem):
# Answer
You may have a problem with the nozzle heat setting being too low for the flow rate, which is directly related to the travel speed.
As a background, when you're printing fast, the stepper motor driving the extruder has to move filament more quickly. That's obvious, but what is overlooked often is that the heater may not be able to move heat quickly enough to keep up with the filament.
Consider increasing your hot end temperature by five degree steps until you observe that the under-extrusion is resolved.
Some colors and brands of filament require adjustment in hot end temperatures. I'm currently printing with silk-like PLA. The filament I usually use prints at 210°C while it was necessary to turn up the temperature to 225°C to prevent nozzle clog.
Not yet viewed in my inbox is a YouTube subscription notice regarding "calibrating your hot end:"
YouTube hot end calibration
I suspect it may be of value to you in your current situation.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting
---
|
thread-12177
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12177
|
Making a 3D printed surface easily cleanable
|
2020-03-13T20:25:13.257
|
# Question
Title: Making a 3D printed surface easily cleanable
I want to FDM 3D-print an object, and be able to effectively clean the surface with standard kitchen cleaning solutions. While the 3D-printed object would not come in direct contact with food, it would come in contact with utensils used with food (e.g. forks, measuring cups, etc.). One of my main concerns is with being able to adequately clean the object when layer lines and general material porosity create areas that dirt/germs may accumulate. I believe my general requirements are:
* No high temperatures are anticipated
* Common FDM materials (PLA, ABS, PETG)
* Coatings or post-processing is fine
How do I make a 3D-printed surface easily cleanable and relatively food-safe?
# Answer
> 2 votes
> There is a huge difference between "Certified food -safe" and "is actually perfectly safe for you to use at home" . – Carl Witthoft Sep 18 '18 at 14:54
Regarding **certified food safe** I point to Ender 3 is capable of food safe printing? \- you probably can't get the certification with a 3D printer, but, as Carl said, you might manage a *pretty safe at home*. So let's assume you go for that.
To make a surface easily cleanable, it is best to make sure that the imperfections of the print are filled up and that there are no undercuts that are not easily cleanable. If you need it smoothed, do it mechanically (e.g. sanding)! Heat or chemicals as a smoothing method are to be avoided, as they can damage the print and accumulate the chemicals used in smoothing in the plastic from where they are released over time.
To make the material both smooth and more safe at the same time, a generous coating with a food-safe lacquer or similar coating would be possible. This also might alleviate the problems with possibly having contaminants in the printing material - we don't know always what is in the printed plastic.
---
Tags: post-processing, food, cleaning
---
|
thread-12174
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12174
|
Slow speed of the delta 3D printer
|
2020-03-13T17:37:16.377
|
# Question
Title: Slow speed of the delta 3D printer
I'm running a large delta 3D printer with Repetier firmware.
The problem that is irritating me is that the speed of the carriages are too slow, like an old lady that is walking in a football field. When I command `G1 Z10`, for example, the carriages move with a super low speed. I checked everything but I couldn't find the problem.
Here are the specifics and the current settting of the printer:
* electronics : Arduino Due + RADDS 3 42cmo6 6 kg
* 2.5 A stepper motors for x,y and z axes
* 3 TOSHIBA ''TB67S109'' stepper drivers (0.1 resistance, 1/16 mic stepping)
* Vref of drivers: 0.7 V (when I increase this to 1 volt a weird sound comes from steppers and the carriages won't move)
* number of pulley teeth: 20
* belt pitch: 2
* steps per rev: 200
* micro stepping: 1/16
* steps per mm: 80
* Max. travel speed: 300 for X,Y,Z
* Homing speed: 100 for X,Y,Z
* Travel acceleration: 3000 for X,Y,Z
* Print acceleration: 1000 for X,Y,Z
PS: I'm currently calibrating the printer and haven't printed anything yet.
# Answer
> 1 votes
When you command a move such as `G1 Z10`, you are omitting the speed at which the tool head travels. Without specifying the speed, the speed from the last command or speed setting is used. Frequently, after levelling the bed, the tool head is raised in Z direction with a low speed (movement in Z direction is always much slower than in X or Y direction), if you command a movement after raising the tool head it uses this speed. For faster movement you must include the feedrate, e.g. `G1 Z10 F600`, now it will accelerate from the initial feedrate (e.g. 300) to 600 during the move. If you want instant speed you set the feedrate first and then move the tool head:
```
G1 F600
G1 Z10
```
---
Tags: troubleshooting, delta, repetier, speed
---
|
thread-12191
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12191
|
Heat bed wires get hot (12 V connected to RAMPS 1.4 shield)
|
2020-03-16T03:19:53.250
|
# Question
Title: Heat bed wires get hot (12 V connected to RAMPS 1.4 shield)
I'm using a 200x200 mm PCB Mk2B which connects to the MOSFET of the D8 pin on a RAMPS 1.4 shield. I used 12 V power source for heat bed so I connected positive to pin 1 and negative to both pin 2 & 3 of the bed. Heat bed worked properly. But the wires that connects power source to power supply pin on RAMPS were being heated badly. I think the problem is come from heat bed because when I unplugged heat bed, wires were cool down instantly.
Can someone helps me with this problem. I'm just a newbie in this area.
# Answer
The PCB heatbed Mk2B has a reported resistance between 1.0-1.2 Ω. The current that is drawn from the power supply equals about 12/(1.0 or 1.2) = 10-12 A. Note that this amount of current requires cables that can carry that load, too thin cables heat up.
Note that you have wired the bed correctly for 12 V (see image below), the wires might have a too-small cross-section, try thicker wires. Personally I use AWG 12-14 silicone wires depending on the bed resistance.
AWG 12-14 size silicone, multiple threads (these are the best for the bed because they are more flexible), should be able to handle the load fine. Note that cables also have resistance; if there are heat spots in the cable or the connection, this indicates that the cable may be broken or the connection has too much resistance.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Check the diameter of the cable. The smaller the diameter the higher the resistance, thus the heat. AWG14 seem a bit small.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, heat-management, power-supply
---
|
thread-10681
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10681
|
Export Revit file for Fusion 360 3D Print
|
2019-07-25T02:54:18.877
|
# Question
Title: Export Revit file for Fusion 360 3D Print
I have a 3D printer hooked up with Fusion 360. I have a 3D drawing in Revit. What format should I export to in order get from Revit to Fusion 360?
# Answer
> 3 votes
**In Revit**
Use STL Exporter 2019 to customize and export your Revit model to an STL file.
1. Click Add-in tab -\> STL Exporter panel -\> STL Exporter.
2. On the General tab, specify your STL file options.
3. On the Categories tab, specify which element categories will export to the STL file.
4. Click Save to create the STL file.
**In Fusion 360**
5. Click on a valid project then click the Upload button. Then, click the Select files button and navigate to the STL you wish to import.
6. After selecting the STL file you want to convert, click the Upload button, this time the one in the lower-right corner of the file upload window. Then, the STL file you selected will be imported into Fusion 360. The process can take a few minutes.
---
Tags: fusion360, autodesk
---
|
thread-12183
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12183
|
Lack of smoothness / homogeneity in several first layers of print
|
2020-03-15T01:58:27.723
|
# Question
Title: Lack of smoothness / homogeneity in several first layers of print
I have a LultzBot TAZ 6 3D printer and the software I use for my prints is "Cura LulzBot Edition - 3.6.3". All of my printing settings/parameters are at their defaults (i.e. no personal customization is employed).
Below, two pictures are included that highlight an issue I have observed in many of my prints; these prints are carried out using the "**default** **settings**" provided by Cura for **PLA**. The two pictures are different orientations of the same printed out object; the volume of interest is outlined in **red**. Additionally, this volume represents the first several layers that are laid down by the extruder.
I am not familiar enough with 3D printing jargon to know if this has a particular name, but as you can see, there is clearly a *lack of homogeneity* in the laying down of several consecutive layers. Depending on the object being printed, this is not necessarily an issue. However, some of my objects have features that occur near the first several layers and are therefore affected by this issue.
Additionally, some of the these objects are *inserted* into other pieces, which are designed to be very tight-fitting. If you look carefully, you will see that this lack of homogeneity in the layer deposition leads to *bulging* of the PLA, which can increase the thickness of the part by ~0.5 - 1.00 mm for several layers. This increased thickness prevents these insertion pieces from fitting into their appropriate locations.
Any suggestions for fixing this issue? Is it an issue of over-extrusion for the first layer that then propagates for a few additional layers? Remember, all settings are at their software defaults for PLA.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There are several solution you should check in this order :
**1"**
The part is printed too close to bed: measure the first layer with a digital caliper to mach your first layer thikness, usualy 0.35 mm like so:
**2"**
Verify that there is no bevel on the first layer if the part looks like this : **U** make it look like this and see if it changes something.
**3"**
Maybe it is a cooling / temperature problem. the bed should be at max 70 °C for PLA and check the cooling of the noozle.
**4"**
Check for an over extrusion problem! When you ask for 100 mm of filament, does it push 500 mm through? If so change this soon.
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, lulzbot-taz-6
---
|
thread-8671
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8671
|
Infill not reaching perimeter
|
2019-04-12T18:31:27.767
|
# Question
Title: Infill not reaching perimeter
I've got several examples like the image below where the perimeter either doesn't bond to, or doesn't reach the infill. I tried adjusting the `infill overlap` parameter in Slic3r from its default of 25 % to 30 %, but it doesn't seem to have made a difference. This is on a new Tevo Tornado that's all stock + a Petsfang Bullseye cooler.
---
Neither speed variations, nor temp variation seems to impact this issue. I'm beginning to suspect that it's related to some sort of play in the Y-axis, as if you look at the defect in the picture, it's the most pronounced running north/south in the picture, which would be layers along the X-axis (meaning their relative position would be impacted by Y-axis movement instability). I'm replacing the leveling springs with PETG standoffs tonight (I have a BLTouch) and will try again then.
I tried 25, 30, and 50 % infill overlap as per a comment request, and that (50 %) seems to have improved another issue where the infill on a first layer would often not reach the perimeter shells.
I tried the following print speeds with all of the following temperatures (nozzle/bed): 190/60 °C, 193/65 °C, 193/70 °C, with 3 perimeters.
That's default behavior. I've also gone to
* Perimeters - 80 mm/s
* Small perimeters - 20 mm/s
* Infill - 90 mm/s
* Solid infil - 25 mm/s
* Top solid infil - 20 mm/s
* Bridges - 70 mm/s
* Gap fill - 25 mm/s
With no visible change in this outer perimeter behavior (the faster set of numbers is what I print with in general).
# Answer
> 9 votes
This has nothing to do with the infill overlap, the image you've added looks as if the issue is related to non-bonding perimeters (it looks as if it is in between the 2<sup>nd</sup> and the 3<sup>rd</sup> perimeter), hence infill overlap doesn't apply here. If that is the case look into this question.
I've had this same issue, the problem is that if the perimeters do not touch, this is most probably caused by insufficient filament flow which can be a result of a too high of a print speed (or too low print temperature) of the inner perimeters. This is frequently seen when printing PETG. PETG has a limited print speed, the PETG I use (premium brand) has a maximum speed value of 50 mm/s, your values are for some values over that value. That would be fine for PLA, but high for PETG, the question is not clear on the material used for this print (the hotend temperatures hint to PLA, the bed temperatures are rather high though).
If it is not related to the material being printed, these gaps are also explained if the positioning of the nozzle is not correct, e.g. caused by loose belts. This is supported by the comment on the first layer:
> where the infill on a first layer would often not reach the perimeter shells
# Answer
> 1 votes
I had absolutely the same issue. And after some research I finally found that this is because of wrong pressure advance setting (In case of Marlin - linear advance) in the firmware. Without pressure advance (linear advance) will be more plastic at the end of the travel rather than at the start. As result the fast full infill will have uneven distribution of the plastic with more plastic close to the perimeters that usually produce rounded corners. The pressure advance makes it better and redistribute plastic flow more even with the speed however if you make this setting too big for your 3d printer and filament then this will result in what you can see on the picture with less plastic at the end of the travel. Basically too big pressure advance parameter will result in less plastic near the perimeters and especially near corners where change in speed happening.
---
Tags: print-quality
---
|
thread-12206
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12206
|
Is 3D printing useful for making everyday objects or is it more for special hobbies?
|
2020-03-19T14:20:28.220
|
# Question
Title: Is 3D printing useful for making everyday objects or is it more for special hobbies?
Have people been using 3D printing to genuinely create a number of needed objects in their homes, and if so, what? Or is 3D printing better for special niche interests like art projects, home engineering projects, etc?
# Answer
> 4 votes
> Have people been using 3D printing to genuinely create a number of needed objects in their homes, and if so, what?
Yes, but in a very limited sense. If there is widespread demand for an item, then it will always be available from stores. This is basics economics: if there is enough demand for something, somebody will step in and provide the supply. The store-bought alternative will almost always be of better quality and relatively cheap.
3D printing can be useful to create a niche part that is needed but not readily available, such as replacement parts for appliances long out of production. This unfortunately takes a lot of time since you need to make a 3D model of the part yourself, which also requires considerable skill.
Some examples of items that I made for my home:
* Custom brackets to hang blinds when the store-provided ones did not fit my window.
* A special mounting bracket to more easily hang a ceiling light panel.
* Replacement wheel for a vacuum cleaner.
* Cover plate for a deprecated telecom socket.
* Fix for a broken clothes drying rack.
3D printing can also be used to create "trinkets" such as custom vases or similar objects.
I would say 3D printing is a bit like woodworking as a hobby: it is a skill that can be used to make genuinely useful items, but going to IKEA is a perfectly viable alternative.
> Or is 3D printing better for special niche interests like art projects, home engineering projects, etc?
It is ideal for this. I do not know of anybody who has a 3D printer specifically for home use. However, there are many hobbyists that use 3D printing for another primary purpose that occasionally find their 3D printers useful around the house.
# Answer
> 3 votes
3D printing is a **tool**. A really versatile one. I have myself used it in various applications:
## Spare parts.
I have broken a couple of appliances in the past and then made spare parts with my printers, skipping on delivery and full replacements. The hanger in the wardrobe got a replacement disk, the vacuum with the broken hinge got the break briged and a couple of other items have gotten simple but effective custom spare parts.
## Education
Be it taking the Colosseum into the class or a miniature of a Roman Castra, a Danish longhouse, it is different to have a picture of something or allowing to turn the item around and look at different angles.
And there are ways to teach physics or geography with it too! For example, a simple sextant can be printed and then used to determine the longitude of your school, or you print the fixings of a Blackburn Pendulum or a harmonograph and ask your students what influences the patterns of the complex shapes that appear.
In languages, the use larger (~30 mm) dice with the forms (for example in Latin: ego, tu, is/ea/id, nos, vos, ei/eae/ea) or tenses generates questions for the students in training and self-study.
And then there is the use to make custom boxes to transport all the learning aids.
## Cosplay & LARP
I have printed decoration and art pieces for Cosplayers and LARPers that would take a lot of handiwork to make otherwise. Be it helmets, masks or shoulder armor, 3D printing allows manufacturing complex items for such.
## Engineering & Tools
I have not used it *myself* a lot, but on the 2016 SMM, I had talked with a fluid dynamics laboratory that used (miniature) FDM prints of static propellers to test an evaluate designs in water basins.
Similarily, on the 2018 didacta, I had seen projects by several universities to combine engineering with education and getting basic training in engineering into schools as extracurricular activities.
There are numerous tools for spacing and such that you can easily make or adjust to your needs. A friend of mine works in wood professionally, and they printed themselves drill-jigs for parts they repeatedly use.
## Art & Decoration
Here 3D printing can shine, and I have made pure decorative objects too.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Both.
3D printing is especially useful for creating replacement parts for things for which it would otherwise be difficult, expensive, or impossible to obtain a conventionally manufactured one. You may have seen in the news recently the story about 3D printing being used to replace hospital ventilator valves that were not available in time to save patients who needed them, and that normally cost \\$11000 from the manufacturer. But the same kind of thing applies to regular household items too. For example, I've replaced broken wheels on my child's toy cars, a broken windshield washer fluid coupling in my car, and various similar things. I'm also planning to replace broken plastic wheel bearings in my vacuum cleaner (the manufacturer's design was atrociously bad and I'll probably adapt it to use real bearings with a 3D printed adapter), a window switch in my car, and lots of other things I can't remember at the moment.
Of course you can do craft and hobby things too. I don't think this really calls for examples/evidence.
---
Tags: 3d-design
---
|
thread-12165
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12165
|
All-metal hotend, cooling fan failures, and cold-side PTFE
|
2020-03-11T13:30:26.667
|
# Question
Title: All-metal hotend, cooling fan failures, and cold-side PTFE
I'm getting a pet bird soon, and I know that off-gassing from heating PTFE above 300 °C creates noxious fumes, which are bird-killer<sup>1</sup>. To try to prevent even the chance of that I'm replacing my hotend with an all-metal one. I have an E3D v6 1.75 mm, which I noticed still uses a PTFE tube at the cold side (the 3 mm version apparently doesn't, but 1.75 mm filament is what my printer uses, so there we are).
If I'm reading the instructions correctly, it sounds like the heatsink shouldn't even get warm to the touch, and if that's the case I'm not worried as long as things go well. What I'm still worried about is what happens if the heatsink cooling fan fails. I plan to plug the fan into the always-on 12 V port on my board (SKR 1.3): if I do, then is it possible to set my firmware (currently Marlin 2.0.4.4) to stop a print if the fan fails?
If I can't get the firmware to stop on fan failure, then is there a 1.75 mm all-metal hotend out there that doesn't require the use of PTFE on the cold side?
---
1- Here: "at temperatures above 570°F (300°C), Teflon \[PTFE\] coatings on nonstick cookware start to break down, releasing toxic chemicals into the air (14)"
# Answer
First of all, we need to discuss the failure mode and what can be done. LEt's do a
## Failure mode 1: coolend-fan stops working.
Let's assume the coolend-fan for whatever reason (cut cable, defect fan, burnt board...) stops working. As a result, the coolend starts to rise in temperature, as it doesn't drain as much heat into the room air as before. This directly leads to an increase of the hotend temperature, which results in a case differentiation:
* The hotend does not cope well with the loss of the heatsink and it triggers Thermal Runaway protection as for a given voltage bump the heating gets too high - the print gets aborted before the hotend reaches a temperature above 275 °C.
* The hotend does not trigger Thermal Runaway Protection but the controller alters its heating behavior and works the heater on a lower duty cycle. As long as the hotend temperature is ordered to stay low enough, we will get a lot of extrusion problems from heat-creep, but the PTFE seated into the heatbreak stays below the heater break's temperature, as the thermal mass of the coolend alone draws away thermal energy into the room, even without the fan that keeps it at room temperature. As long as you don't print at above 300 °C and the thermosensor is intact, the failure mode does not release any fumes that could result in Polytetrafluoroethylene Toxicosis.
## Failure Mode 2: coolend fan stops Working, no TRP, Thermosensor OK
But what if TRP is off? Let's look at this Double Failure: The hotend does not trigger Thermal Runaway Protection (or it was turned off to begin with) and the temperature increases due to the lack of cooling from the coolend.
As the hotend reaches 275 °C (few printers print that hot, and they use specialized setups), it should trigger the next safety line: a MaxTemp error and cut power. Heating stops before the coolend gets to the dangerous zone of 300 °C, as the coolend always is less hot than the heater block.
## Failure Mode 3: no TRP, Thermosensor broken
We are getting desperate and turn off TRP, *then* break or disconnect the thermosensor to get a static low temperature. NOW we are getting serious, as only with such a failure we can trick our controller to continuously heat the heater cartridge and not trigger any of the error conditions. Only now there is the mere possibility to heat the coolend over 300 °C.
Marlin Firmware is designed to carefully work with checks and balances to keep the heater block in the wanted margin, and it would need a **deliberate manipulation** of the software to **disable** all safety features **in conjunction** with the failure of the thermosensor for the printer to go into Thermal runaway in such a degree that the coolend goes over 300 °C. And then you have different problems: your printer surely is turning into a molten pile in that failure mode. The presence or absence of the coolend fan would just delay the inevitable, should you run such a fire hazard-machine
# Conclusion
Configure and install a recent firmware distribution (Marlin 1.1.9 and Marlin 2.x come with TRP enabled by default) and be sure to have MaxTemp enabled at 275 °C and Thermal Runaway Protection on, and you have a 3-layer safety against PTFE-fumes.
Adding more layers surely is possible, but the cost-effect calculation gets worse starting there.
> 3 votes
# Answer
It is doubtful that small PTFE inside hotend could produce that kind of dangerous gas leak. But another thing should be considered: the PTFE tube inside hotend WILL degrade over time and will need replacement.
For last several years I had numerous experiments with all kind of solutions including my own designs made. And recently I found the best and all metal solution: Volcano 20mm heater + M6 stainless throat + normal SHORT E3D nozzle (not the Volcano nozzle but the normal one). Basically this solution put the problematic gap (merge of nozzle with throat) deep into hotter zone, you just need longer throat. So far I have best quality and speed with this approach.
The most important thing for the all metal hotend is to have fast retracts.
For the FAN I recommend to use double deck, that is to put one fan on top of another and connect them in parallel. I found this solution in some server power supplies. And indeed two fans produce really good flow to cool heatsink at higher temperatures (before I was considering water cooling but two fans much cheaper and do the job very good). Also the probability that two fans will fail is very low.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: firmware, hotend, safety, cooling
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|
thread-12204
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12204
|
Ender 3 Y-Axis Stretched (I don't believe it's layer shifting)
|
2020-03-19T11:16:06.490
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 Y-Axis Stretched (I don't believe it's layer shifting)
I've got a peculiar issue today, and was looking for some help with it.
Of the six Ender 3s I manage at my college, one of them seems to be **stretching the Y axis** of all the prints I make with it.
Some points about the issue:
* It's variable, but is much more pronounced in larger prints:
+ A raspberry pi frame-mounted case I printed came out too long along the Y-Axis by over 2 mm.
+ To troubleshoot, I printed a calibration cube but the Y-axis was only 0.5 mm longer.
+ It seems to affect only part of some prints; a bit over half of the pi case was stretched, but a section at the top appeared normal (screw holes were perfect circles, but towards the other end they were ellipse-shaped).
* I tried tensioning the Y-belt, and while I noticed it was loose before tightening it, this didn't make a noticeable improvement.
* It doesn't occur in any of the other five Ender 3s, all of which are equal in modifications.
* A re-flash of the Marlin firmware didn't fix the issue. It's a preconfigured Marlin version that I pulled off github based on a recommendation. I flashed this version to try and solve the problem, the previous version was installed by the printers' previous caretaker but the new version didn't help (makes me think we might have both grabbed the same version).
* It means that I can no longer print any components that require high tolerances, as they simply won't fit together.
The most recent print was a 40 mm fan shroud for a "hero me" setup (which I'm working on installing on all six printers).
* I ran two of them, one on the printer with the issue and one on a perfectly functional printer.
* They were run this morning, in identical conditions and started at the same time.
* There are no other structural defects aside from the stretching, it simply looks like a normal, print but as if someone used the photoshop transform tool and pulled it.
Here is a side by side of the two finished prints, comparing them along both the X and Y axes. As you can see, the X axis is perfect on the problem print, but the Y is consistently stretched (visible in the shape of the round cone and the screwholes).
This issue has been consistent and I'm honestly stumped, any help is appreciated! If anyone needs me to obtain more documentation or test something, I'll be back in with the printers in the morning (roughly when this post is 10 hours old) and I'm happy to get any documentation needed.
# Answer
If an axis doesn't print the sizes you command it there are basically 2 options causing this.
1. The printer is incorrectly configured,
2. The printer has an hardware issue.
To find out which of the 2 is applicable, you need to look into your setup and into the firmware settings. E.g. from the printers display you can read the amount of steps the stepper needs to make to move the axis 1 mm. Alternatively, send `M92` through a terminal and look at the steps per mm. If X and Y are the same, the firmware is correctly configured and you are facing a hardware issue. Note that for the stock Ender 3 the value for X and Y needs to be 80 steps/mm. **Do not alter these values!!!** These values are based on the mechanical layout and the micro-stepping used by the stepper drivers.
Since you have flashed a stock hex firmware file it is highly improbable that the firmware contains the incorrect steps per mm value for the Y axis (unless you accidentally changed this through the interface/display). This leaves you with a hardware issue. Common reasons that could identify the source of the problem are:
* Loose grub screw of the pulley on the stepper,
* Missing steps, e.g. due to too much friction (if dimensions are smaller, in your case this is not the problem, it is added for completeness),
* Loose, under tensioned belts,
* Stretched belts as a result of over tensioning the belts.
Considering the stretched Y dimensions, the most logical explanation would be that your belts are stretched, you cannot fix this by changing the steps/mm value, it requires mechanical attention; i.e. replacing for new belts.
> 1 votes
# Answer
It is likely you have PU belt and it is likely it stretched in some area. I had all my PU belts finally stretched with big tension and high speed printing. Now I am using reinforced rubber belts.
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, y-axis, dimensional-accuracy
---
|
thread-12213
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12213
|
Ender 3 build surface is sticking up in the middle
|
2020-03-20T00:42:32.287
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 build surface is sticking up in the middle
I have had my Ender 3 for a few months now and have loved it! I recently noticed that the build plate, the black removable part of the print bed, is sticking up in the middle. If I poke it, it goes back into place, but will not stay there. It shows especially when I print my leveling squares and find the the corners are near-perfect, but the center is crazy thin.
I am using a stock Ender 3 with Cura 4.5.0.
For those who may find this to be helpful, I am looking to find a good replacement build plate. In the meantime, I managed to get mine (without the sticky back) to lay flat by increasing the temperature of the bed from 50 Celsius to 60.
# Answer
> 1 votes
So your (clone) BuildTak bed surface is not sticking to the bed anymore, time to remove the surface and clean the heatbed and apply a new one. These build surfaces (usually) have a sticky 3M sticker to stick it to the bed (or the surface bottom is covered with a sticky surface). When this sticking layer fails of subsequent heating cycles you need to replace the build surface. The higher the temperature the more the build surface expands the higher the surface gets when it doesn't stick in certain places.
Note that the build surface is a consumable, it needs to be replaced once in a while.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, build-surface
---
|
thread-12189
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12189
|
Gobs of filament during initial movement of extruder
|
2020-03-15T19:14:22.707
|
# Question
Title: Gobs of filament during initial movement of extruder
I have successfully printed a few models on my Maker Select V2 (Wanhao Duplicator i3) including 3D Benchy, but I'm seeing a consistent problem with a model that I've sliced with Cura.
The extruder starts by doing a little filament wipe at the origin, then moves to the center of the build plate where the part should be printed. During this move, it extrudes a big burst of filament (PLA), several centimeters worth, which completely ruins the print.
I debugged the initial G-code that Cura uses, and am able to reproduce the problem with this:
```
M104 S200 ; heat to 200 C
M109 S200 ; wait to reach temperature
G21 ; metric values
G90 ; absolute positioning
M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode
; move to home
G28 X0 Y0
G28 Z0
G1 Z15.0 F120 ; move up 15 mm
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
; problematic!
G1 F200 E6 ; extrude 6 mm of filament
```
What this is doing is moving to the origin position and pushing some filament through the extruder.
# Answer
The G-code you posted indeed extrudes a blob of filament at the origin (6 mm). During this extrusion pressure is build up in the nozzle/heatbreak, if you command a move after this prime blob, the nozzle will leak filament releasing the leftover back pressure, it is normal to include a retraction before moving to the start of the print, e.g.:
```
; problematic!
G1 F200 E6 ; extrude 6 mm of filament
G92 E0
G1 F1500 E-1
... ; End of start G-code, move to skirt/brim etc.
```
An example Cura start G-code could look like:
```
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
G28 ; Auto Home All AXIS
M117 Heating bed 1st...
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M117 Heating core 1st...
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}
M117 Priming...
G1 X0 Y0 F2500
G1 Z2
G92 E0
G1 E15 F250
G1 Z4.0 F500
G92 E0
M117 Wiping...
G1 Y5 Z4.0 F500
G1 Y10 Z0.2
G1 Y15 Z0.2 F500
G92 E0
G1 F200
G1 E-3
M117 Printing...
```
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code, extrusion, monoprice-maker-select
---
|
thread-12219
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12219
|
Bad print quality on Creality Ender 3
|
2020-03-21T14:22:44.200
|
# Question
Title: Bad print quality on Creality Ender 3
About 1.5 months ago I changed the springs of my printing bed and since then I have had the same problem again and again. Strangely enough, it only happens sometimes.
I have already realigned the printing bed several times, cleaned it etc. Maybe one of you can tell me what my problem is based on these pictures.
I have also already tried out various underlays.
I print with an Ender 3 , PLA, quality: 0.2 mm, speed: 25 mm/s, initial fan speed: 0 %.
I'm not sure if it helps but on the pictures I tried to print: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495390.
# Answer
> 1 votes
From the images you can see that the filament is not squished to the bed, e.g. the extruded skirt looks as if a round rod lies on the bed. The bottom picture shows that the skirt is even dragged (top left); this indicates that the initial bed to nozzle distance is too large. Please decrease the distance or look into your slicer if there is a height offset active.
---
Tags: print-quality, bed-leveling
---
|
thread-12223
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12223
|
Equally spaced surface flaws
|
2020-03-22T04:37:27.913
|
# Question
Title: Equally spaced surface flaws
I'm having an odd effect in my prints. There is some sort of surface problem that seems to be evenly spaced in z. I tried to tighten my belts, the print speed is 75 mm/s using a 32 bit board, on an Ender 3 Pro.
Any recommendations?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The surface defects you describe is caused by Z-wobble. Basically this leads back in a defect in the Z axis gantry where X and/or Y movements are transferred into the print head. This can be cause by:
* a damaged nut,
* lead screw not straight,
* stick-slip,
* binding,
* lead screw out of alignment with the coupler,
* lead screw touching the stepper shaft in the coupler,
* the Z guide (at the other side of the X-axis arm; the one without the extruder mounted on it) has too much friction of the wheels on the profile,
* play on the carriage,
* lead screw should be the same distance from the extrusion profile from top to bottom,
* etc.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, surface
---
|
thread-5170
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5170
|
3D printer stepper motors only going one direction and skipping in the other
|
2017-12-22T22:12:51.127
|
# Question
Title: 3D printer stepper motors only going one direction and skipping in the other
I have built a couple of 3d printers now and I'm having a little trouble with one I'm currently on. I frankensteined this one with two of my other printers that I had built. I took the Arduino mega and ramps 1.4 out of the older one and wired it up to the newer one. When I plug the printer in and try to move the stepper motors they will go in the positive direction and skip and make loud noises when going the other direction. I have taken and separated out all the wires to make sure it wasn't a stray signal. I have also tried turning the voltage up and down on the drivers with no luck. I also swapped cables in case one might have been broken. The next step when I get home I'm going to try is connecting the old steppers and see if they work. After that I am pretty much at a loss. I already search Google and found a couple of things I could try, but figured maybe someone here might have an answer to why this might be happening. Steppers motors from the old printer are the same as the new one the only difference is manufactures.
Update: The printers are: HE3d Prusa XI3 Max Micron Foldbot
I'm just using the LCD, Ramps 1.4 and Arduino Mega 2560 R2 from the He3d and putting it on the Foldbot. With some other features but those shouldn't matter as they would work on both printers. The board from the Foldbot is the Arduino Mega 2560 built into the Ramps board MXP\_PRO\_V3.0. I'll try and get some pictures. Also switching steppers didn't work. Going to try to get X,Y,Z axis working separately see if i can find the problem that way.
Update: Ok so I attached the old axis up and did a test with the endstops. Basically I think the new endstops must be the opposite of what the other printer was cause when i hold the end stop down the motor rotates in both directions and when i let go then it rotates only in a positive direction. I will see if this is part of the issue. I also believe that one of the motors is bad and that's why it wasn't making any sense when i first diagnose it.
# Answer
From an electrical standpoint, a two-phase stepper motors (what most 3D printers use) works the same backwards and forwards, the phase just reverses. If you are stalling on only one direction, I would look to see if you have a mechanical bind in that direction. Generally a wiring issue will cause the motor to either not run at all or to run in the wrong direction.
A few things you can check:
1. Decouple the motors from their mechanical load and confirm that they all run correctly when they aren't driving a load. If you can't do that, disconnect them all then connect a spare motor to each cable one-at-a-time.
2. Turn each of the axis with your hand and make sure it turns smoothly throughout the entire range in both directions. Note: Some times a binding issue is acceleration related - a loose frame or coupling can cause this.
3. Monitor the supply voltage to make sure that one of the motors is not pulling the supply down causing all the others to stall.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Sounds like you are configured for NC switches but are using NO switches, causing them to invert their reported state. Issue a **M119** command and see if the endstop statuses are correct when none are triggered.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Had a similar issue with one of the stepper motors on a Flashforge Creator Pro.
Just finished a print as the head was returning to the home position and sounded like it was jammed up, inspected in jog mode and it would move left but not right then neither direction, disconnected, check for free movement and all was good found this thread and was thinking it might be a bad motor but turned out to be just a bad wire going to the motor.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, diy-3d-printer, reprap, repetier, prusa-i3-rework
---
|
thread-12234
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12234
|
Nozzle cleaning tool broken inside nozzle
|
2020-03-23T22:32:53.097
|
# Question
Title: Nozzle cleaning tool broken inside nozzle
Recently I opened up my printer (PowerSpec Duplicator i3 Mini V2)to clean the nozzle (it comes with the little tool to get tiny bits of filament out of the nozzle). Well, I was using that and when I pulled it out I discovered the tool broke inside the nozzle. Filament is still coming out but obviously not properly. Can someone please help me fix this?
# Answer
Your best fix is to get a replacement nozzle. Nozzles are relatively cheap. Having and replacing them on a regular basis is a good thing. Replacement can help you maintain proper printing. You can probably get the cleaning tool out of the old nozzle, but most likely you'll damage it further, making it nearly useless.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: nozzle, cleaning
---
|
thread-12199
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12199
|
Photon S DLP first layers adhere but support will not
|
2020-03-18T04:48:46.787
|
# Question
Title: Photon S DLP first layers adhere but support will not
Recently I changed the FEP bottom of my Anycubic Photon S and I'm having problems with prints now. The bottom layer sticks super well, but none of the supports or the prints do.
I've tried tensioning the vat, releveling, and changed supports of the structure. Nothing works and I don't know how to proceed.
I also tried tightening all of the screws on the build plate, but still errors.
I'm using Anycubic black resin, 8 bottom layers at 90 seconds, 7 second exposure with 2 seconds off.
The image shows a failed print example:
# Answer
> 2 votes
I finally reached out to anycubic and their tech support answered and was awesome!
They had me update the firmware, tighten the fep film more ( instead of using the small lever I used the big lever this time), then level the bed again. I printed their test print and it worked!
After that I looked at their parameters and I saw that mine were very different. The main differences was in the lift distance, speed and retract speed. I only had 1 mm lift distance and much slower.
Here are the correct ones in the end
---
Tags: sla, dlp
---
|
thread-12241
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12241
|
3D Printer does not print whole object
|
2020-03-25T02:45:11.480
|
# Question
Title: 3D Printer does not print whole object
Just took delivery of a massive Anycubic Chiron to my house and have been trying to get it printing successfully for supplies for fellow clinic staff. For some reason, it is only printing a portion of the test shape that Cura is putting out. I am using 1.75 mm ABS Filament, with an enclosure and proper adhesion. Attached is the preview image from Cura. The next pic shows what the printer is actually laying down, some sort of rectangular crop of the test cube and skirt. I just stop the print when I see it repeat the issue.
Print settings:
* Layer Height 0.2 mm
* Initial Layer LW 110 %
* Infill 20 % Gyroid
* Print Temp 240 °C
* Build Plate Temp 106 °C
* Flow 92 % (thought there was an overextrusion issue)
* Speed 50 mm/s
* Travel 80 mm/s
* Initial Layer 15 mm/s
* Z Hop 12 mm/s
* Z Hop Height 0.15 mm
* Retraction Dist 2 mm/s
* Retraction Speed 15 mm/s
* Cooling Off
* Min Layer Time 10 s
* Skirt, 3 lines, 10 mm distance, minimum length 250 mm
* Retraction Minimum 1.5 mm
# Answer
> 1 votes
It looks like either the mechanical travel is constrained or, possibly you have the origin of the X-Y plane in the wrong place in Cura. Usually Cura won't even slice if it thinks the object extends past the printable area, so check the display in Cura "Layer View."
If that's OK, then try using the control panel on your printer to manually drive the print head all the way in both X and Y axes. If it doesn't then the commenters are correct thatyou have a mechanical interference somewhere. If it does, then somewhere between Cura and your printer the "soft limit" of maximum excursion is set wrong. I'm not familiar with your printer model, but there should be a control panel command to "zero all axes," and typically the origin is the front left corner of the build plate (facing the printer, so "Stage Right" in theatre coordinates) .
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, abs, anycubic-chiron
---
|
thread-12244
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12244
|
Layer Separation Where A Previous Layer Ends
|
2020-03-25T20:24:26.787
|
# Question
Title: Layer Separation Where A Previous Layer Ends
I have a problem with my prints having a small separation gap between layers when I have a corner and the Z layer ends or starts for a partial distance. The gap reminds me of a gap between a print and its raft. Usually 1 layer just seems to be missing in places.
I've been printing about a year now and I've tried different temps, line width, layer thicknesses. The problem has even been a problem after installing new firmware. I use Cura V4.5.0 and an Ender 3 printer. The problem is rather difficult to describe so I've attached an image demonstrating the problem.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Almost certainly the material that was supposed to be deposited there was lost (oozed out) somewhere else during travel moves due to no retraction, insufficient retraction, or retraction being skipped due to combing. Make sure retraction is on, at least 6 mm, and try disabling combing or setting the max combing distance very low, around 2 mm or less.
If your new firmware is Marlin 2.0, you can try enabling linear advance too. If tuned correctly, it will largely correct for this along with improving lots of other things.
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Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-10897
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10897
|
Streamlining OpenSCAD Code
|
2019-08-29T19:52:03.420
|
# Question
Title: Streamlining OpenSCAD Code
Is there an efficient approach to discovering what is extraneous ("dead" or "unused") code in OpenSCAD to promote the learning process?
I am making progress by using working examples of code; however, some contain code with lots of modules and "test cases" (like gear generators) that aren't always used or referenced. These are great utilities but in trying to simplify the file to do only a small part of what is possible (usually by commenting out what I think are unused lines of code) things (to me) get very unpredictable. Reviewing the "AST Dump" has helped some but I'm hoping there is a more practical approach to isolating only the bare essential code.
# Answer
I have written compilers and optimizers, as well as optimizers which work on raster operations. I so want to offer you a beautiful solution, but I don't know of one.
If I really wanted to solve this, I would start with this approach:
First, identify each token and expression in the OpenSCAD code. Assign each a unique identifier, and reserve one bit of storage, initially zeroed, that will be used later.
At the geometric database level, tag each geometric element with the identifier in the source code that generates it. Intersections become labeled with both operands and the intersection operator. Same with unions and other operations.
Then render the OpenSCAD form into some representation, perhaps voxels, perhaps STL. Voxels have a resolution limit but are intrinsically the simplest form. STLs might require an optimization pass to find redundant edges -- although that may already be part of STL generation process.
Now, go through the tagged representation voxel by voxel or triangle by triangle. Set the bit reserved with every token and expression to "one" for every identifier associated with that voxel or trianble.
Finally, check the bits on each of the source tokens and expressions. If the bit is zero, that particular element contributed nothing to the result. If the bit is one, that is needed in the result.
This is oversimplified because one source element can be used several times. Some may contribute to the output, and some may not. A fully expanded version of the source should be used, and we have to invent notation for reporting that instance 1 and 3 is used but 2 is not. I'm sure there are other over-simplifications which someone reading this will immediately realize.
I think, though, that this would be a path forward to the OpenSCAD optimizer you want.
In the meantime, OpenSCAD provides some prefix characters. One of the, maybe "\*", removes a sub-tree from the generated geometry without messing up the parsing. I frequently use that mark to find out if code is used and to what it contributes.
> 1 votes
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Tags: openscad
---
|
thread-12229
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12229
|
Can model used for 3D printing be later used for mold mass production?
|
2020-03-23T03:59:02.357
|
# Question
Title: Can model used for 3D printing be later used for mold mass production?
I am working on a project that requires an enclosure that I am thinking to prototype using a 3D printer (which is pretty easy and overall awesome).
My question is simply whether this same model can be used later on for mass production (i.e. mold injection)? What adjustment (if any) need to be done to model between prototype and mass.prod. stages? What areas in design to look out for that can make model viable for 3D printing non-viable for mass production?
# Answer
I respectfully disagree with the hard no answer. There are many casting methods, some of which are not compatible with 3D printed parts and at least one that definitely is. See investment casting, aka lost wax casting. (Ref 1) Also search YouTube for "investment casting using 3D printing". Formlabs, the company that makes the Form 2 and Form 3 3D printers, sells a 3d printable resin specifically for investment casting. (Ref 2).
There is a whole world of casting, so I will describe, as an example, a very simple process that will make a replica of your 3D printed part. I will briefly address the steps necessary for making multiple copies at the end of my answer. First you need to add a cylindrical extension to the shape that will create a sprue. See the two models shown in the image below. Next make a foil cup a little larger than your 3D printed part and place your part in the cup, suspended by the sprue. Pour liquid plaster of Paris (POP) into the cup, covering the 3D printed part, with just the top of the sprue sticking out. Once the POP has hardened, you can remove the 3D printed part by dissolving it in an organic solvent (acetone for acrylic) or by heating the part to several hundred degrees C so it will burn out (convert to gasses). You will now have a block of POP with a void shaped like your 3D printed part plus a cylindrical hole to the outside that acts as a sprue. Once you have heated the POP to drive out any remaining water, you're ready to cast. Fill the void (via the sprue hole) with, for example, copper powder and heat it to well above its melting point. Once everything has cooled, lightly tap the POP with a small hammer or equivalent, to remove it, leaving your final part plus the sprue. You can remove any remaining POP with some warm baking soda and patience. The final step is to cut or saw off the sprue shape.
Please understand that the process described above is just to give you a basic idea of the process. There are many alternate or additional steps that may produce a better final product. Also, the process described should work of the rook model shown on the left of the image below, but not the model on the right, which has a small hole through the middle. There are ways to solve that issue, but as I said before, there is a whole world of this stuff.
Casting is a way to create parts out of materials that you otherwise could not 3D print directly (on a home budget). For mass production, you would need to start with an inverse of the final shape. For example, a cylindrical slug with a rook-shaped void. Then you would use the investment casting process to create a mold out of a rigid material that you could use to, for example, create rubber copies of the original part that could, in turn, be used as the "wax" for copies in the final material.
I urge you to experiment, maybe following one of the tutorials on YouTube. Good luck.
Ref 1 - Investment Casting https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment\_casting
Ref 2 - FormLabs 3D printable casting resin https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Castable-Resin?language=en\_US
> 1 votes
# Answer
That's a hard No.
Models used in industrial injection molding are very specific to the process sometimes even the machine. When they build those molds they have to include constructs like spurs and runners; things to get the molten plastic to where it needs to go. Further the wall thickness of an injection molded part can only be so thick, because the plastic will contract when cooled, which will distort the final part if it is too thick.
> -1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
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|
thread-12235
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12235
|
Is 12V and 15A enough to make work a Ramps 1.6 Plus and two stepper motors?
|
2020-03-24T10:55:20.307
|
# Question
Title: Is 12V and 15A enough to make work a Ramps 1.6 Plus and two stepper motors?
I want to make an order with this configuration
* Arduino MEGA 2650 R3
* Ramps 1.6 Plus
* 2 TMC2130
* 2 Stepper motors 17hs3401
* 1 Fan
But I am not sure what voltage and current would be enough to make it work. The Ramps 1.6+ board has an input of 12V as you can see in the picture, but I have read that other people had to increase the voltage with a DC-DC converter.
So, would be 12V and 15A enough to make work that configuration?
# Answer
> 2 votes
The easiest way to know how powerful the PSU should be is to download from https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim the Excel workbook which simulates the power absorbed by the stepper motor. Input the motor specifications, check in the graph the max speed at which you plan to run it, check the absorbed power, add 20% for the various losses. Once you know the absorbed power, you can multiply by the number of stepper motors and obtain the current required, add 20% not to stress the PSU too much.
In you case, this is the result
Your motor will never absorb more than 7 W, 14 W for the two motors, around 20 W considering losses in the motors and overcapacity of the PSU. This means that around 2 A PSU will be perfect for your setup.
---
*Previous answer, which may not be completely correct but still provides a useful background knowledge:*
The TMC drivers limit the current to the value you set, which is most of the time lower than the datasheet. In no case you will need more than 1.3 A * sqrt(2) * 2 motors = 3.6 A. In fact, you won't need this much either.
When there is no field in a coil, the driver applies full voltage, but the current is low (initially zero) so you don't hit the 1.3 A per coil.
The current increases (the higher the maximum voltage available to the driver, the faster it increases) and the driver (probably) keeps the full voltage until the preset current is reached. Just a moment before that, the current is almost there, but you still have full voltage from the power supply. This is the theoretical worst case, but it applies only for a very short amount of time.
As soon as the current reaches the preset, the driver "cuts the voltage" to keep 2.4 ohm * 1.3 A = 3.2 V (because V = R * I). This means that the power supply sees 3.2 A/12 V\*1.3 A = 0.35 A.
When running, the motors almost never start from zero to max current: both coils are powered and when one increases, the other one decreases.
In fact, the microstepping makes the steppers act more or less like AC motors with two phases. This means that overall the current is the max current per phase multipled by sqrt(2). Also, when using microstepping one phase (coil) is not completely shut off, but two of them work at the same time (with different current levels). This means that in total one compensates the other, and the power supply only provides, more or less, 0.35 * 1.4 = 0.5 A per stepper. You have two, so it's 1 A total, therefore 2 A PSU considering the inefficiencies.
A very easy and complete explanation is provided here:
> By controlling the duty cycle of the chopper, an average voltage and an average current equal to the nominal motor voltage and current are created.
>
> ...
>
> As the current increases, a voltage develops across the sensing resistor, which is fed back to the comparator. At the predetermined level, defined by the voltage at the reference input, the comparator resets the flipflop, which turns off the output transistor. The current decreases until the clock oscillator triggers the flip-flops, which turns on the output transistor again, and the cycle is repeated
So you never have coming out of the PSU more than the preset current.
> **Supply current is not the same as the motor current in a copper drive**. It is the motor current multiplied by the dutycycle, at standstill typically Isupply = IM · ( VM ⁄ Vsupply )
>
> ...
>
> Depending on how the H-bridge is switched during the turn-off period, the current will either recirculate through one transistor and one diode (path 2), giving the slow current decay, or recirculate back through the power supply (path 3). The advantage of **feeding the power back to the power supply** is the fast current decay and the ability to quickly reduce to a lower current level.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Yes, A power supply that can deliver 12 volts and up to 15 Amps will work. Since that board says 12 V, that means it is designed to work at 12V. The components on the board might not survive 24V. The TMC stepper motor drivers specified can tolerate a max of 2.5 amps. That current draw is dependent on the per phase winding impedance of the motors that are used. @2.4 ohms phase resistance, that 12 volts could generate a max of 5 amps (more than the Trinamic can tolerate). Therefore, if you configure the stepper drivers to operate at more than 50% power, they will overheat and shutdown.
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Tags: stepper, arduino-mega-2650, power-supply, ramps-1.6, tmc2130
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thread-12256
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12256
|
Can Cura alert me (give a warning) if it estimates times for layers are too long?
|
2020-03-27T01:58:55.810
|
# Question
Title: Can Cura alert me (give a warning) if it estimates times for layers are too long?
I occasionally have a problem with warping and peeling. Mostly this is fine; it only happens rarely. Recently it happened again on a larger item, and it gave me an idea. I went back and looked, and I noticed it's much more likely to happen when I have very large layers near the base of the print, where the time between layers is too long. The print cools down too much before the next layer can cover it, causing the warping.
To help avoid this issue, I'd like to have Cura alert me somehow if I'm gonna have times for individuals layers greater than, say, 4 minutes (I'll improve on that number over time).
Is this possible?
---
In posting this, I noticed an even better option for slic3r to automatically disable the cooling. If Cura can do that, I'd also like to know how. But I still want to know about alerting for those layers.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Look at Cura's cooling settings. It doesn't have a warning like you asked for, but it does have options to control the fan to avoid over-cooling. I think you need to set "Regular/Maximum Fan Speed Threshold" to the number of seconds you want to consider a "long time" for a layer to take, then set "Regular Fan Speed" (for layers that take a long time) to 0 or something low, and "Maximum Fan Speed" to 100 or whatever you normally want to be using.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing
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|
thread-12263
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12263
|
Prusa i3 MK2 Heated Bed Thermal Runaway Problems
|
2020-03-27T21:18:32.310
|
# Question
Title: Prusa i3 MK2 Heated Bed Thermal Runaway Problems
I'm having an issue with my Prusa i3 MK2 MMU.
It starts printing just fine, and everything gets up to operating temp quite quickly. However, after printing the first few layers, it seems as if the heated bed can't keep up with the demand, and its temperature starts to drop, first it can barely hold 80 °C and then it slowly drops down to 77-76 °C before the printer shuts off due to `BED THERMAL RUNAWAY`.
The LED is continuously on for the bed, so it seems to be supplying power when this happens. Setting the printer down from high power to "silent" helps a bit, so could this be that it is not getting enough power?
Ambient temp is around 17 °C.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The local library makerspace (prior to COVID-19 shutdown) has a Prusa i3 MK2 (no MMU) that had a similar problem. The model being printed was relatively small, compared to the bed and was being printed nearly atop the temperature sensor.
The part cooling fan was cooling the bed sensor while the rest of the bed was not being used.
Moving the model away from the sensor resolved the problem. If you're printing in the center of the bed, consider to re-slice in a position offset from the center.
If you are using the PEI sheet as the library machine is/was, consider to shuttle your prints around the bed over time. The library's printer wore away the PEI from always-centered prints. It had to be replaced after about a year. The replacement is going on two years with little complications.
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Tags: prusa-i3, heated-bed, heat-management
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|
thread-12265
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12265
|
Makerbase MKS Slot2 V1.0 + RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD + RAMPS 1.4
|
2020-03-28T11:25:38.903
|
# Question
Title: Makerbase MKS Slot2 V1.0 + RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD + RAMPS 1.4
I want to add an **external SD card adapter** on my **RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD**. My 3D printer is based on (Arduino Mega + RAMPS v1.4 + RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD). I buy an SD Card Adapter from Aliexpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32873382195.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4f544c4d5UzB1L) and now I want to add this adapter on my RAMPS 1.4 while not disturbing the working of RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD. Please guide me how can I add this to my RAMPS? Thanks!
**My 3D Printer Details:**
* Model: A Standard DIY Prusa 3D Printer (Cartesian)
* Firmware: Repetier Firmware
# Answer
A RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD already has an SD card slot reader at the back of the board:
Basically one of the 10 pin headers is used for the display and rotary encoder and reset, the other header is used by the SD card reader.
The module referenced in the question is a breakout SD card slot reader for the TFT (touchscreen) display controllers. Whether these are compatible with the EXP2 header of the RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD should be compared with the schematics. The schematics of the RepRapDiscount Full Graphics LCD are available, but for the SD slot breakout cannot be found. It is therefore unsure if the EXP2 is fully compatible for the SD slot board. To use the EXP2 on a RAMPS shield, you need the L-shaped connector.
The description of the Slot2 explicitly says that it is meant to be connected to either a TFT35 or a TFT70 MKS touchscreen display. In order to use it directly to your RAMPS shield requires finding out which pin goes where.
> 0 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, ramps-1.4, reprap, full-graphic-smart-controller
---
|
thread-13275
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13275
|
Filament feed tube
|
2020-03-29T23:00:04.660
|
# Question
Title: Filament feed tube
I'm new to 3D Printing and recently purchased an Ender 3D PRO I'm having an issue with the filament guide tube getting pushed out of the nozzle on the feeding mechanism. The assembly instructions don't include a whole lot of detail about installing this guide tube but there are blue clips that were included along with the spare nozzle. There are no instructions on where to use these blue clips and I have a hunch this might be the problem.
# Answer
The blue clips stick in the connector on the extruder end of the feed tube. They are to keep it from opening as the printer extrudes and retracts filament.
To install them, push them in between the white part of the fitting on the feed tube (not the hot end). You should only need one or two, and they are all of varying thicknesses. If you're not familiar with these fittings, I found a YouTube video on how to use them.
> 2 votes
# Answer
The clips or collet clips as they are called are to secure the Bowden tube more solidly to improve printer extrusion; more specifically: extruder retraction performance.
E3D has explained this very nicely on their site under Bowden tube physics:
> For the bowden couplings (which can have some wiggle room in them) we are introducing collet clips, which slide under the toothed collet part of the coupling that physically holds the tube and locks it into place with a little pre-tension to boot. This reduces coupling lash to near zero as the collet and tube it is holding are locked into place.
From the animated gif from the E3D website (animated gifs are not allowed on SE) it can be seen that without clips, the tube can move in the tube coupling:
> 1 votes
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Tags: extruder, creality-ender-3, bowden
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|
thread-13273
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13273
|
What kind of problem is this? How does it correct itself?
|
2020-03-29T18:12:08.197
|
# Question
Title: What kind of problem is this? How does it correct itself?
I fired up my printer again last night to print something (Printrbot LC that I have customized), and happened to notice the Octopi instance still had a file that I printed ~5 years ago. Also, I noticed i had files from ~2013 when I got started. My printer is from that time, so keep that in mind.
I've noticed that sometimes I will see a Y axis shift, and then the print will correct itself. It did it again last night. Since this had happened before, I thought maybe the wires for the heated beds were getting snagged on something, so I made sure they were out of the way, and made sure they had proper strain relief before printing this thing.
However, about 1 cm up the Z axis, my print had a 1-2 mm shift of the Y axis for ~2-3 mm, and then corrected\* itself somehow.
## **The Question**
What is this kind of problem called? What should I look for to try to troubleshoot it? Let's make sure to include the possibility that one of my upgrades has gone awry to leave no stone unturned.
## Stay on Target
My printer probably also has other problems, and that's fine to point them out after addressing my primary concern.
\*Almost completely corrected itself. Maybe .5-1 mm off.
## This is the print.
It'll be serviceable after some filing. It's from this thing.
## This is my printer
## Upgrades
* Printrbot LC, I want to say I bought in 2010. It was a kit and I assembled it.
* This pic is from 2014 and it's about the same.
* I've extended the physical Z height, but supposedly the firmware needs to be updated to make use of it. I would still need to adjust the wiring too.
* I've extended the Y axis (front to back).
* As part of extending the Y axis, I added a 2nd heated bed. It's not plugged in, and I only use the one which is the one closest to the camera. There is room for a 3rd bed, but that was an accidental bit of engineering.
* There was a lot of bow in the bed, even with the added support. I manually adapted this thing to add in a bearing to support the bed near where the hotend was. Manually with a dremel, super glue, etc.
* I have noticed a clicking where the support bearing touches a screw holding the aluminum rail to the wood, but that would only impact prints for the second bed. The print I am asking about was in the middle of the primary bed, and far away from this.
* I updated the belt and pulley to the G2(?) belts. Those are standard now, but this was an upgrade for this bot.
* I added an additional support bearing for the hotends, which reduced the X axis slightly.
* Added fans for the part and the incoming filament.
## Misc
* Bed is manually leveled by adjusting screws and nuts
* Glass is held to the bed by small aligator clips
* I print on bare glass with purple glue
* I am using PLA+, hotend at 220 °C, and bed at 60 °C
* I have an old version of OctoPi on a Raspberry Pi 1 controlling the printer
* I sliced last night with Cura 4.1.0
* I use 3 mm filament
* Printer has a .4 or .5 mm hotend, whatever was stock (I don't recall, and I don't see the setting in Cura)
* Printing at .2 mm height
* I have noticed some wear on the 3D printed gears for the extruder, but they still seem to be working. I've been meaning to print some spares, and have printed a spare bigger one in case they fail.
* The printer has wooden 1x4 supports in one corner, so none of the PVC cage moves at all now. It didn't move much before unless I was pushing on it.
* I printed and screwed in some stops that go around the feet of the printer to prevent it from moving around.
* The printer is very rigid with the above feet stops, the wooden supports, and the ~20lb roll of filament on top of the Z axis.
* The y axis has some friction and some spots are tighter than others, so I will keep looking at the mechanics of the bed to see what I can do.
## Things I have tried so far
* Tried multiple things at a time, because screw science lol. Close to order of operations below, but not perfect.
* Upgraded Cura to 4.5.0
* Printed multiple times. Still have the problem.
* Rotated print by 180 degrees. Same problem in same direction, at same height. Towards the Y axis zero.
* Adjusted flow to 97%, so now I'm not overextruding. The screw holes come out as screw holes, and the top surface looks mostly normal. Once I'm done with this print, I might try 95%.
* Cut a zip tie that may have been catching on bed clips.
* Added more clips to hold the glass to the bed. Removed old clips that were worn out and may have been impacting the gantry.
* Adjusted the tension on the screw that holds the bed and the guide rods, to reduce friction of the guide rods and their bearings. This reduced friction, but did not have an effect on the print.
* Rotated print by 90 degrees. Same problem in same direction, at same height.
* Watched the printer as it was printing the strange part. There were no mechanical collisions, and things seemed normal.
## More thoughts
* I will look into spinning up a new Octoprint server on a newer Raspberry Pi to see if that helps.
* I am having a hard time finding examples of layer shift that didn't 100% kill the print. The fact that this corrects itself makes me think it's not the usual mechanical problems associated with layer shift.
* I have added the other thing to the print (from the same designer and thing page), and we'll see if they both have the problem, or what else might happen.
## Updated pics
# Answer
All those prints are terrible compared to what my Printrbot LC v2 can do, I think you should do a full calibration of the printer cooling, temperature, extrusion factor.
Anyway, the issue of layer shift corrects itself because ... it happens again. Nothing else.
Printrbot LC v2 had quite an aggressive acceleration already, and you increased the weight of the Y axis (frame, heated bed, rods) significantly. Have you reduced with M201 the Y acceleration? I wouldn't use anything above 1000, in your case. Maybe even less. Then the layer shift will disappear.
That PVC structure seems non-rigid and could be wobbling laterally. You could put some kind of stiffener in or upgrade the frame with stiffer materials.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The photos show that the problem is occurring at around the same height. It seems that at a certain Z height something is deflecting the other axis (not sure if it's X or Y) which resolves itself.
I suspect that the rod on which the Z axis rides is either bent or has a dimple, where the rollers pass over it. Either that or perhaps a roller has a dimple.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, diy-3d-printer, troubleshooting, y-axis, pla+
---
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thread-8136
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8136
|
Ender 3 distance between nozzle and bed changing on Y-axis
|
2019-02-02T17:47:54.567
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 distance between nozzle and bed changing on Y-axis
After I level my Ender 3, the distance between the nozzle and the bed seems fine on both ends, but moving the bed on the Y axis shows that it's increasing and decreasing for three times, which I just cant fix.
This only occurs on the left side - the right side is constant from beginning to end. Also I've been using three different beds (the magnetic one and two glasses) to make sure it's really something else.
I created this video to demonstrate the problem.
I'm sure that this has something to do with the carriage wheel adjustment, but tightening those did not change anything.
How do I get rid of this problem?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Your video shows that your bed seems warped somewhat.
## Ammount of error
As I assume you did level the bed with a sheet of paper to be 0.1 mm thick, we can estimate the change of thickness. The thickest point seems to be 0.2 mm, the thinnest 0.05. that's in average an error of 0.075 mm for the first layer. If you can live with that, no need to touch it.
## Fixing the issue
Basically, if the error is too large for your liking, you need to fix it. To fix it, there are pretty much 2 ways. Remember that the Ender-3 uses 24V when ordering parts!
### Fix the part or install a replacement part
If you feel like you need to get it even flatter, you'll need to try to flatten the bed mechanically or replace it. You'll need to be comfortable to remove the BuildTak-clone surface, then remove the leveling screws, open the electronics enclosure, remove some hot glue, unhook the bed.
Then you will need to flatten the bed in some way (grinding the upper side perfectly flat or bending it, replacing it for an entirely flat one).
Then reinstall it, going through the uninstallation backward, and add a new build surface on it.
### Switch to alternate leveling method: Mesh Bed Leveling
If you consider yourself to be able to do some intermediate to advanced modification of your printer, you can change the hotend carriage to one that allows mounting a distance sensor and changing the firmware to mesh-bed-leveling.
You'll need to get an induction or capacity sensor (common operation ranges for those are 6-36V, so perfectly fine with 24V) and some way to couple that to the board, most likely an optocoupler. Print a new mounting for sensor and fans.
To install you open the electronics compartment, hook up your chosen 24V-5V coupler as extra to the Z-switch, hook the power supply of the sensor up and run it up to the printhead. Replace the mounting for the hotend cooling fan and part cooling fan and change your firmware. Calibrate the height of the sensor to trigger correctly.
I did flash a bootloader via the ISP on my ender-3 since then, so I can just flash the new firmware via a direct connection.
## Last words
In either way, after fixing, you should run a PID-tune on the machine.
Thermal Runaway might or might not be active, depending on your firmware iteration, so you should update it anyway, which might make Mesh Bed Leveling the slightly easier way to go.
This has *nothing* to do with the bed carriage wheels, as the bed hangs onto the carriage only via the screws in the corners.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I managed to get rid of the problem by installing a **linear rail** for the y-axis!
Used this mod from thingyverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064275
There are also solutions out there which are placing a linear rail on the left AND right side, but since for me the problem was only on the left side, this seemed sufficient (and was).
# Answer
> 0 votes
Blue Painters tape on the left side starting at the center and leaving a band on the far left side and the rear Perfetto side. I checked the before and after and the thickness of the tape shimmed out the deflection on the plate. It sounds like whatever the use to stamp the steel out is creating the bend we are only talking several thousands of an inch but when I put a flat edge on the plate and shined a light from the rear I could see daylight. The blue tape was from Nearys video on creality cr-10 bed leveling.
---
Tags: troubleshooting, creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, y-axis
---
|
thread-13285
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13285
|
Metal sintering layer-by-layer with DLP
|
2020-03-31T08:32:34.897
|
# Question
Title: Metal sintering layer-by-layer with DLP
As of current technological advancements, there exists Metal 3D printers that make use of Digital Light Processing (DLP) projector to 3D print metal objects. These printers use a mixture of metal powder and binder. The mixture is placed on the build platform and a laser light beam (or UV light beam, I'm not sure) projection of the layer to be printed is projected on top of the mixture. The light causes the binder to bind the metal powders to each other creating the desired layer. Similar process is repeated for subsequent layers until the object is fully printed. Once fully printed the object is de-binded and sintered in an oven to form the final object.
Now, my question is, like in SLS 3D printing, why cant we directly shoot high-power laser beams with the help of DLP projector onto the powder (without the binder) and cause the metal powder to sinter there itself?
# Answer
SLS uses a high powered laser to smelt the binder of a ceramic or the metal itself. We are talking about at least a 40 W laser which focuses its power on a circle of about 50 µm. How much power are we talking about with that lowest viable laser for plastic SLS?
$\frac{40\ \text{W}}{\pi \ 62.5\times 10^-9\ \text{m}^2}=640\times 10^6 \frac{\text{W}}{\text{m}²}$
A typical SLA/DLP machine like the Sparkmaker runs on 48 W in total. Assuming that's 40 W for their $55\text{ mm}\times98\text{ mm}=0,00539\text{ m}^2$, so the total projector power of the Sparkmaker is
$\frac{40\ \text{W}}{\pi \ 0,00539\ \text{m}^2}=7.421\times 10^3 \frac{\text{W}}{\text{m}²}$
That's about **5** orders of magnitude too little to smelt a layer in the same time. To get a DLP-like projector doing SLS work, you'd need a light source that runs at about a similar power per square meter - wich would just melt the moment it turns on.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: post-processing, dlp, metal-printing
---
|
thread-13282
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13282
|
Can I resolder a power connections with a partially burnt board
|
2020-03-31T01:07:29.873
|
# Question
Title: Can I resolder a power connections with a partially burnt board
Recently my RAMPS power connector caught fire while heating the heated bed. I suspect this was a defect caused by the connector, and de-soldered/removed it as best I could. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I'm looking for advice on whether It is possible to re-solder the power connectors directly onto the board, or I'm just risking another fire. Here are pictures of the top and bottom.
# Answer
As MIck wrote, we hope your board isn't damaged - with any luck there aren't any trace shorts in the melted region.
My approach would be slightly different. Use some short bits of wire soldered into the board at one end and soldered to a new connector socket at the other end. This way you can put a new plug connector on the power leads and be able to disconnect the board as desired.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Possible? Yes. Advisable? Perhaps not. Since it is the power connection, I would be tempted to solder the cables directly to the board. If the board is found to work, I would then install an external MOSFET for the heated bed, to reduce the amount of current that the controller has to handle.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: ramps-1.6
---
|
thread-12249
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12249
|
PRUSA likes the bed to be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. What else should I use?
|
2020-03-26T01:26:05.873
|
# Question
Title: PRUSA likes the bed to be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. What else should I use?
I have the original Prusa i3m3 printer. Prusa recommends cleaning the bed before each print with isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol), with only occasional cleaning with acetone. The textured bed prohibits using acetone.
Given the SARS-COV-2 situation and COVID-19, isopropanol is impossible to find, and will not be in stock on shelves in the US for months.
What would you suggest as an alternative that might still be found on store shelves?
# Answer
> 4 votes
**Ethanol** (Ethyl Alcohol) should work just fine as long as it's around 80% or more. It's very similar to isopropanol as a cleaning solvent. What you're basically doing is removing any stray grease from the bed with a solvent that evaporates quickly.
**Methanol** would also probably work. It's very poisonous though, and shouldn't come into contact with your skin, so it requires a bit more careful handling. Methanol also has the benefit that it can't be used for hand sanitizer (since it's absorbed through the skin), so supplies shouldn't run out.
Look for alternative sources, for example, methanol is often sold as de-icing agent for pneumatic brakes on trucks. Just make sure it's pure alcohol without anything funky added.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Dish soap will remove grease very well. Once you rinse it with a moist sponge and dry with a clean cloth most residues will be gone.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The Prusa manual also states that you can use Windex for PET-G:
> use Windex instead as it degreases less thoroughly.
Also works with PLA, I've tested it, but for assured adherence, I also use a little swipe of the glue stick included with the printer.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, acetone, cleaning, bed, pei
---
|
thread-13290
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13290
|
Problem with Creality v1.1.4 (Ender 3 Pro) and BLTOUCH v3.0 (removed C7 capacitor)
|
2020-03-31T15:51:25.697
|
# Question
Title: Problem with Creality v1.1.4 (Ender 3 Pro) and BLTOUCH v3.0 (removed C7 capacitor)
I followed this tutorial on how to set up **BLTOUCH v3.0 with my Ender 3 Pro**. (v1.1.4 motherboard)
I even **removed C7 capacitor** on Z axes. And **no luck**. My BLTouch probe is working, it turns on with the Ender and testing is fine. But it doesn't stop the printer on Z axis while auto homing.
Firmware is from firmware.th3dstudio.com
Any ideas? Any advice is highly appreciated.
My configuration.h file: https://paste.ofcode.org/Z4kKiGwYXC6yQ698t9uaeY
My configuration\_backend.h file: https://paste.ofcode.org/34tuX4mG3Ph57jSnT8YByi3
# Answer
> 1 votes
If the probe works, but not on auto homing, it could be that the Z endstop/probe wires are incorrectly wired.
From "The complete BLTouch/3DTouch guide for Creality printers (CR-10/s,Ender 2,Ender 3) for Auto Bed Leveling UPDATED" can be read:
> If you connect your bltouch and when auto homing the sensor doesn’t register & the z axis keeps dropping pressing into your bed, turn your printer off, disconnect the power and invert the black and white connectors in the z limit switch header (put black where white was, put white where black was).
This can also be found in this Marlin issue tracker:
> The Problem was the polarity of the sensor wires was reversed.
If reversing the polarity does not work, move to the original Marlin firmware.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bltouch
---
|
thread-13296
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13296
|
Which connectors should I use to connect my Power Supply Unit to the Ramps?
|
2020-04-01T18:13:20.377
|
# Question
Title: Which connectors should I use to connect my Power Supply Unit to the Ramps?
I have read that the cable colours depend on multiple factors:
* Used voltage
* Kind of cable
* Type of voltage (DC or AC)
My cable looks like this:
I live in Spain, in Europe. The colour codes of the International Electrotechnical Commission for AC circuits are these ones:
My PSU has these possible connections
So I guess these are the connections:
* L (AC). Brown colour. Single Phase line or Three Phase Line (L1)
* N (AC). Blue colour. Neutral
* GND. Green and yellow colours. Protective earth or ground (PE)
* COM, COM ¿?
* V, V ¿?
* V(ADJ). This is a potentiometer, in order to modify the current voltage. Should I touch this?
But I am not sure about what are the COM and the V ports. I assume they are for the DC connections, which is the positive and which the negative? The PSU does not have any manual and I am little lost
Should I turn the potentiometer to change the voltage to adapt it to the Ramps 1.6 Plus board?
Please correct me if I made some mistake in my question as well
# Answer
> 2 votes
You're quite right :)
* L (AC): Brown colour. Single Phase line or Three Phase Line (L1)
* N (AC): Blue colour. Neutral
* GND: Green and yellow colours. Protective earth or ground (PE)
* COM: DC Negative (-) - Also referred to as "Common"
* V+: DC Positive (+)
* V(ADJ). This is for a potentiometer, in order to modify the output voltage. You won't need this unless your power supply is far off.
The way to go about these things is to connect the AC side and to connect a multimeter to the output terminals (V+ and COM, there are two of them in case you need to wire up more than one connection). I like to lightly tighten down the probes under the terminals, that way you don't have to mess with the connections with the mains terminals exposed.
Now you can plug in the power supply (PSU) and make sure it doesn't start smoking or sparking.
Verify that the PSU is outputting DC 12V (that seems to be the voltage required by your Ramps board according to the picture). After that, you can connect it to the Ramps board (remember to disconnect the PSU before rewiring). If the voltage is anything but around 12 V (+/- 0.5VDC should be safe), you need to verify that the PSU is the correct type for your application.
---
Tags: power-supply, color, wire-type
---
|
thread-13300
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13300
|
Which 3D printer controller should I use?
|
2020-04-02T02:20:31.650
|
# Question
Title: Which 3D printer controller should I use?
I recently build a 3D printer from scratch and was using an Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 to control it. A few weeks in I installed a heated bed to help my prints stick to the surface. The bed I bought was an Anet bed found on Amazon, I'm told they are prone to causing fires.
About a week after I installed the bed, my the MOSFET on my RAMPS overheated and began to smoke. I could no longer perform without heating up too hot and smoking, so I bought another RAMPS 1.4 to replace it. The same thing happened and I returned it...
After doing some research and finding out the connectors and MOSFETs on the RAMPS 1.4 are typically undersized, I decided to upgrade to avoid the problem and go with a RAMPS 1.6 instead, which was supposed to better handle the current flow. After about a week of using the RAMPS 1.6, the power connection began to smoke and caught fire(Not the MOSFETs like the RAMPS 1.4, the incoming power connector). I attempted to remove the connector and resolder the wires, I couldn't get it to work. At this point I'm looking for advice on which controller to go with. I don't want to buy another RAMPS out of fear of the same thing happening, but I am also wondering if buying a different heated bed would fix the problem. So any recommendations on where to go from here? I've look at a few boards but one thing is some of them can only control 1 Z stepper driver, while my setup has Z.
# Answer
## Controller boards
Please note (this is not to bash) that RAMPS shields are not the top of the line printer controller boards, investing in a more modern printer board platform (preferably not a clone of a known board), e.g. a 32-bit board might be a better solution.
Any board with at least four stepper drivers should be sufficient (you can use the two Z steppers in parallel or in series), some boards even offer two Z stepper output connectors controlled by a single stepper, e.g.:
No worries if the board doesn't have two Z stepper connectors, you can buy dual stepper breakout boards, e.g. a parallel solution:
Alternatively, an extra stepper driver can drive the extra Z stepper; this requires a board with at least 5 stepper drivers then, the Z2 stepper would then be connected to the E1 extruder driver. The firmware needs to be aware of using 2 stepper drivers, so in Marlin (depending on the version) set `Z_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS` or assign a value to `NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS` .
## Anet heatbed
The Anet heatbed is notoriously known for fire accidents/burning caused by the underrated connectors (the connector itself is not rated for 10 A!), also the connector should require proper strain relief. The best solution is to solder the heat bed wires directly to the backside of the connector (which is what I did on my old Anet A8 printer, I used multiple pins soldered together, both the outer 2 pins on either side), an example from the web (downside is that they only used a single pin) shows this principle (with solution for cable/soldering stress relief using a tie-wrap):
A final notice for connecting heatbeds is to use proper cables; silicone cables of proper gauge (silicone wires are very flexible, e.g. AWG 14) should be used. Also, never solder the ends and put them under screw connectors on the printer board, instead, use ferrules or proper sized fork terminal connectors.
## MOSFET Band Aid
In case the MOSFETs on your boards are underrated, you can use external MOSFET boards to relieve the shield/printer board from the high currents. Note that the bed requires the most current (about 10 A), for the hotend this will not be required, the current draw is much lower, the onboard MOSFETs are rated for those loads.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, ramps-1.4, ramps-1.6, mosfet
---
|
thread-13303
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13303
|
G29 Bed Level not doing anything on Marlin 2.0
|
2020-04-02T06:45:25.030
|
# Question
Title: G29 Bed Level not doing anything on Marlin 2.0
I've just updated my Anet A8 with the blue bed level sensor to Marlin 2.0 . Both pressing the Level Bed button on the display or using `G29` after `G28` in the G-code don't do anything.
`G28` Homing works fine, but doesn't put the nozzle at the center like it did on Marlin 1.1.x, instead it puts the sensor at the center of the build plate. `G29` worked fine in my previous Marlin 1.1 config.
These are my config files:
# Answer
From the linked `Configuration.h` file the probe X, Y, Z probe offset is set by constant array:
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 75, -35 , 0 }
```
So, the sensor is mounted at the right-front (X+, Y- according to the Marlin configuration definition) when facing the printer.
This implies that the sensor is limited on the right and at the front.
The probing area used to be defined in Marlin 1.1.x in the `Configuration.h` file. However, Marlin 2.x requires edge offsets rather than absolute bed size constraints. From the `Configuration_adv.h` of linked file, the following probing limits are set:
```
#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (75 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (Y_BED_SIZE -35 - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#endif
```
This is incorrect, this is what you would do in Marlin 1.1.x. Note that this answer describes in detail how to set the bed probing limits. You need to specify the offset from the edge on each side, in schematics the probing area is defined as:
From your printer configuration, the probing limits should be set to:
```
#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (75 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (35 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE) ; Note that 35 is absolute(-35)!
#endif
```
> 0 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, anet-a8, bed-leveling
---
|
thread-13308
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13308
|
Pile up objects and attach them for mass 3D printing
|
2020-04-02T16:18:55.030
|
# Question
Title: Pile up objects and attach them for mass 3D printing
I'm completely new to 3D-printing. Because of Covid-19, my dad got a Dagoma Magis 3D printer and we are printing protective visors for hospital workers here in France.
We have been given a 3D model that we can simply load on the printer and it works pretty much alone. The 3D-printed part is quite small and very flat so we thought about piling six or seven of them up so we can let the printer work during the night. Then in the morning we would simply have to detach each piece from the pile using pliers. I thought about doing this using Blender (I know nothing about 3D but I've heard Blender is a good tool for that). In fact, I started by posting this question to the Blender stackexchange, which redirected me here.
This is the piece (or two pieces, actually) that I want to pile up.
My strategy would be to extrude small cylinders to the shape from different points and copy and paste the model several times. The end result would look like this:
The yellow bits are the cylinders I want to insert to separate the different parts. So when it is printed, I can simply cut them to separate each visor.
To do this, I think the best way to proceed is the following steps:
* Load up the model as I did (imported an STL file)
* Add some tiny cylinders (or another shape) on the top of it by extruding them
* Copy and paste the shape and move it along the Z axis to pile them up
* Fuse everything together and merge it as a single item
* Export as STL
* Put into 3D printer.
Is that a good strategy? How should I proceed?
I looked up everywhere at how to extrude a cylinder, or copy-paste a shape and attach it together, but in vain. I'm too clueless about Blender to figure how to do this. I could only manage to make a circle spawn at the origin of the plot.
I know stackexchange is mostly for professionals and this is a beginner question, but this is a quite peculiar situation. I really want to do it fast, as the quicker we print the visors, the faster the medical staff can have them.
Also, if you recommend using anything else than Blender, I'm up to anything.
# Answer
Don't modify the STL to separate the visors with cylinders. The rest of the part is unsupported, so this will give you lots of support structures or, if omitted, a gigant spaghetti print.
Josef Prusa is already printing stacked visors on his print farm overnight.
I would stack the models of a set of visors in my slicer and for each visor added after the first disable "dropping print to the build plate" and position each consecutive visor one layer height (e.g. 0.2 mm) higher than the last layer of the previous, this way you use the previous visor as a raft for the next.
---
Below, a reference of someone who prints 8 parts stacked (4 high) overnight:
> I wanted to be able to print more than just 2 at a time. Specially over the night when everyone is sleeping. I came up with the idea to stack them on top of each other. Instead of 2 you could print 8 during night. If your printer has smaller build plate and you can only print one its also big help for you.
>
> After printing jsut simply peel them away and they will break loose.
>
> Gap between parts is 0.3 mm .
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, blender
---
|
thread-13310
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13310
|
PID autotune fails 'Temp too high' with 12 V heater cartridge but works with 24 V?
|
2020-04-02T18:06:33.543
|
# Question
Title: PID autotune fails 'Temp too high' with 12 V heater cartridge but works with 24 V?
So, I have created my own heater block for my 3D printer and mistakenly was using a 12 V, 40 W heater cartridge thinking that was the standard for my Ender 3, when in fact it is supplied with a 24 V, 40 W.
You may have seen my earlier post about when using autotune the temperature would overshoot by a large margin and returned the following error.
```
PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high
```
Graph of Overshoot:
I was unable to remove this overshoot even through manual tuning.
Now I have switched from the 12 V cartridge to the 24 V this problem is resolved, and I can now run the autotune. It follows a much more gradual curve when heating up so doesn't trigger the same error.
However, I am unsure why this is the case? Can anyone explain why the 12 V heater cartridge results in too high of a temperature increase?
It seems counterintuitive to me as I would have thought the higher voltage cartridge would heat up faster as opposed to vice versa?
# Answer
It is all about resistance.
This requires some formulae:
$U = Voltage$
$I = Current$
$R = Resistance$
$P = Power$
$U = I \times R$
$P = U \times R$
$ R = \dfrac{P}{I^2} = \dfrac{U^2}{P} $
The 12 V, 40 W cartridge has a resistance of about 3.6 Ω.
If you use this cartridge at 24 V, this caculates to a power of 160 W!
This means that there is an enormous influx of heat that is hard to control, hence the overshoot.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, hotend, pid
---
|
thread-12129
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12129
|
PID Autotuning not working – large initial overshoot, no oscillations
|
2020-03-05T08:43:49.570
|
# Question
Title: PID Autotuning not working – large initial overshoot, no oscillations
Using the following code to autotune the PID:
```
M303 E0 S200 C10
```
Which is setting my tuning temperature to 200 °C using 10 cycles (though this is irrelevant in this scenario).
The temperature overshoots to 250 °C then decreases until room temperature.
The following error is returned:
```
PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high
```
As a test I reset all PID values to zero.
```
M301 P00.00 I00.00 D00.00
M500
```
Then set the printer to reach 200 °C
```
M104 S200
```
This produced the following graph, where oscillations can be seen.
I could attempt to manual tune the PID from here but I'd rather use the autotune command if possible. Any ideas how to fix this?
# Answer
> 5 votes
I recently experienced exactly the same problem. For me it was related to an incorrect heater cartridge. I accidentally used a 12 V cartridge in a 24 V powered system.
The heater element got accidentally mixed up between the higher voltage parts container and I forgot to check the resistance. Inserting the correct voltage heater immediately fixed the problem, but it did require a retune of the hotend.
---
Tags: pid
---
|
thread-13317
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13317
|
Relative move affected by home offset
|
2020-04-03T02:03:28.547
|
# Question
Title: Relative move affected by home offset
I set a home offset on my Ender 3 running Marlin firmware so that it starts printing from the corner of a custom build surface which doesn't cover the entire bed:
```
M206 X-10 Y-10
```
Now, when I run this:
```
G1 X0 Y0 Z1
```
the head moved to 1 mm above the bottom left most edge of the sticker (good!)
However, I notice when I do relative moves like this:
```
G91
G1 X-1 Y-1
```
The head actually moves in the opposite direction than you would expect, because it's subtracting the offset from the relative coordinates, which I didn't expect.
Put another way, the following G-code:
```
M206 X-10 Y-10
G91
G1 X0 Y0
```
Moves the head to x=20 y=20 measured against the original coordinate system.
Is this expected? It seems rather undesirable behaviour to me. Bug?
# Answer
Yes this is expected, with `M206` you set a relative offset!
> The values specified are added to the endstop position when the axes are referenced.
reference: G-code wiki `M206`
So when you issue the command `M206 X-10 Y-10` twice (or already have an offset set), the offset is 20, 20 (X, Y) and when instructed to move "nothing" (`G1 X0 Y0`) the printer moves "nothing" **from** (*thus* **to**!) the newly defined origin at (20, 20). Basically it is relative movement from the set coordinate system, not the position of the carriage. In effect you have changed the reference frame, the printer just responds to that action.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3, g-code
---
|
thread-13322
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13322
|
Less filament from the half to the end
|
2020-04-03T10:07:32.847
|
# Question
Title: Less filament from the half to the end
since some prints my printer (Geeetech i3) prints less and less filament over time:
Notice, that the beginning is printed well:
**My settings for this print (Slic3r):**
```
; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
; bed_shape = 0x0,200x0,200x200,0x200
; bed_temperature = 60
; before_layer_gcode =
; between_objects_gcode =
; bridge_acceleration = 0
; bridge_fan_speed = 100
; brim_connections_width = 0
; brim_width = 0
; complete_objects = 0
; cooling = 1
; default_acceleration = 0
; disable_fan_first_layers = 3
; duplicate_distance = 6
; end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
; end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 ; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors\n
; extruder_clearance_height = 20
; extruder_clearance_radius = 20
; extruder_offset = 0x0
; extrusion_axis = E
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; fan_always_on = 0
; fan_below_layer_time = 60
; filament_colour = #FFFFFF
; filament_cost = 19.99
; filament_density = 0.945
; filament_diameter = 1.75
; filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
; filament_notes = ""
; first_layer_acceleration = 0
; first_layer_bed_temperature = 60
; first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.4
; first_layer_speed = 30
; first_layer_temperature = 220
; gcode_arcs = 0
; gcode_comments = 0
; gcode_flavor = reprap
; has_heatbed = 1
; infill_acceleration = 0
; infill_first = 0
; interior_brim_width = 0
; layer_gcode =
; max_fan_speed = 100
; max_layer_height = 0.4
; max_print_speed = 80
; max_volumetric_speed = 0
; min_fan_speed = 35
; min_layer_height = 0.15
; min_print_speed = 10
; min_skirt_length = 0
; notes =
; nozzle_diameter = 0.4
; only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1
; ooze_prevention = 0
; output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
; perimeter_acceleration = 0
; post_process =
; pressure_advance = 0
; printer_notes =
; resolution = 0
; retract_before_travel = 2
; retract_layer_change = 0
; retract_length = 2
; retract_length_toolchange = 10
; retract_lift = 0
; retract_lift_above = 0
; retract_lift_below = 0
; retract_restart_extra = 0
; retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
; retract_speed = 40
; skirt_distance = 5
; skirt_height = 1
; skirts = 2
; slowdown_below_layer_time = 5
; spiral_vase = 0
; standby_temperature_delta = -5
; start_filament_gcode = "; Filament gcode\n"
; start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n
; temperature = 220
; threads = 4
; toolchange_gcode =
; travel_speed = 120
; use_firmware_retraction = 0
; use_relative_e_distances = 0
; use_set_and_wait_bed = 0
; use_set_and_wait_extruder = 0
; use_volumetric_e = 0
; vibration_limit = 0
; wipe = 0
; z_offset = 0
; z_steps_per_mm = 0
; adaptive_slicing = 0
; adaptive_slicing_quality = 75%
; dont_support_bridges = 0
; extrusion_width = 0.4
; first_layer_height = 0.2
; infill_only_where_needed = 0
; interface_shells = 0
; layer_height = 0.15
; match_horizontal_surfaces = 0
; raft_layers = 0
; regions_overlap = 0
; seam_position = aligned
; sequential_print_priority = 0
; support_material = 0
; support_material_angle = 0
; support_material_buildplate_only = 0
; support_material_contact_distance = 0.2
; support_material_enforce_layers = 0
; support_material_extruder = 1
; support_material_extrusion_width = 0.4
; support_material_interface_extruder = 1
; support_material_interface_extrusion_width = 0.4
; support_material_interface_layers = 3
; support_material_interface_spacing = 0
; support_material_interface_speed = 100%
; support_material_max_layers = 0
; support_material_pattern = pillars
; support_material_spacing = 2.5
; support_material_speed = 60
; support_material_threshold = 60%
; xy_size_compensation = 0
; bottom_infill_pattern = rectilinear
; bottom_solid_layers = 3
; bridge_flow_ratio = 1
; bridge_speed = 60
; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.6
; external_perimeter_speed = 50%
; external_perimeters_first = 0
; extra_perimeters = 1
; fill_angle = 45
; fill_density = 25%
; fill_gaps = 1
; fill_pattern = honeycomb
; gap_fill_speed = 20
; infill_every_layers = 1
; infill_extruder = 1
; infill_extrusion_width = 0.4
; infill_overlap = 55%
; infill_speed = 80
; overhangs = 1
; perimeter_extruder = 1
; perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.4
; perimeter_speed = 60
; perimeters = 1
; small_perimeter_speed = 15
; solid_infill_below_area = 5
; solid_infill_every_layers = 0
; solid_infill_extruder = 1
; solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0.4
; solid_infill_speed = 30
; thin_walls = 1
; top_infill_extrusion_width = 0.4
; top_infill_pattern = rectilinear
; top_solid_infill_speed = 15
; top_solid_layers = 3
```
I've tried other filaments (PLA) and higher temperatures (190-240). I also cleaned the nozzle.
What is this problem called and how to fix it?
# Answer
Your filament diameter in the slicer is okay, so big chance this is caused by something different:
* heat creep, or
* a mechanical issue of the extruder; e.g. grub screw is loose, too less tension on the extruder roller, etc. or
* lots of friction on the spool can also cause this, or
* your nozzle is partly clogged and requires a thorough cleaning of the nozzle assembly.
The search term you're looking for is "under extrusion".
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, filament, slic3r
---
|
thread-13328
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13328
|
How is heat creep characterized?
|
2020-04-03T16:15:14.253
|
# Question
Title: How is heat creep characterized?
I have a Delta printer with Bowden extruder and all-metal hotend. When I start printing, the hotend gets often jammed. It seems to be independent of the print I am currently doing. Retraction does not affect it either (it happened even with 0 mm retraction).
However, despite occurring mostly at the start of the print, it also occasionally happens mid-print.
I can resolve the issue by pulling the filament out and after few seconds putting it back in only for it to happen a couple lines afterwards.
At this point it seems to me that heat creep is most likely, in spite of having a 40x40 mm fan blowing across the fins of the heatsink.
Is this heat creep? If not, what could be the cause?
# Answer
Constant jamming sounds like heat creep. It could be that:
1. The fan might not be powerful enough. Get a better fan
2. You're printing too slowly. Try increasing the print speed.
3. The temp might be too hot on the hot end. Lower printing temp.
4. The heater might be too close to the radiator. Adjust the hot end so that there is a max amount of space between them.
5. The firmware could be letting the hot end get too hot. With the cooling fan on, do a PID tune.
6. The filament might be getting stuck in the throat. Try lube, especially if you are using an all metal hot end.
7. Heat from the bed might be affecting the cooling fan's ability to cool the hot end. Try lowing the heated bed's temp.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: hotend, heat-management
---
|
thread-8615
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8615
|
Error when trying to upload firmware to cr-10
|
2019-04-04T23:36:47.190
|
# Question
Title: Error when trying to upload firmware to cr-10
I've been having trouble uploading the TH3DUF\_R2 firmware to my CR-10. I've already successfully flashed the bootloader using my Arduino, but when I try to upload the bootloader I get this error:
`avrdude: ser_open(): can't set com-state for "\\.\COM4"`
Things I've tried:
* Changing the usb drivers
* Changing the baud rate
* Using a different computers without any other usb devices
My printer is not functional right now with just a bootloader and no firmware, so I'm not really sure where to go from here.
# Answer
Two possible solutions are given in this thread: Upload error: avrdude: ser\_open(): can't set com-state for "\\.\COM17"
This post says:
> i am able to fix this problem very easily... just press reset button on arduino and unplug from usb and go to the arduino software installation directory (c:/program files/ arduino) and open drivers folder and open dpinst-amd64 by double clicking on it and just install that if it not runs may be your system runs with 32bit and open the file below the previously opened file and install it again.. close arduino programming software and open it again and choose your board and com ports and now it should upload to your board...enjoy...
Or try the solution from this post:
> I could fix this problem! Maybe this solution will works for you:
>
> 1. in device manager I had unnistalled the drivers that I had. After reconnect it then it appears in "Other dispositives" with the name "USB 2.0Serial". There are cases that it appears like "FT232RUSB UART".
> 2. my serial conversor chip on arduino uno board is "CH340G". Check this on your controller boards because others like "CN480661" has another fix method. If you can't find this chip maybe this video could help you (in spanish, sorry, is where i found the solution): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4ar5sjbZFg
> 3. download the drivers "CH341SE" from this url: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3csnhlsbdrznbp3/CH341SER.zip?dl=0 and then decompress it in a folder
> 4. in device manager check whether the arduino is shown (reconnect it for that if you didn't do it in \`step 1) then do right click -\> update software -\> browse software in the computer -\> examine or browse
> 5. Now you have to search the folder in which you decompress the drivers (step 3). After then pulse accept, ignore any advertice and continue. Then it will install the drivers and you will be able to use your arduino.
>
> NOTE: If in this last step windows has an error you need to enable the unknown digital signature installation. check other tutorials for this
These seem to be the only two solutions that worked for other people experiencing the same issue.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Ok... So I found a much simpler answer to this. In my device manager I just right clicked the device (Com port 4, the one that wasn't working for me) and allowed windows to update the drivers from the web.
This fixed my issue. Just wanted to put it out there in case anyone else was struggling
> 1 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, creality-cr-10, usb
---
|
thread-13337
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13337
|
Creality v1.1.5 board replacement UP1 Chip
|
2020-04-04T11:25:14.633
|
# Question
Title: Creality v1.1.5 board replacement UP1 Chip
While I was having fun with my ender I burn out **UP1 Chip**.
Does anyone know **which chip is that** (I can't see because of burnt) and **where can I order it**?
Image: Damaged chip
# Answer
It's an **MP1584** chip. Guys on Reddit helped me out.
link
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-13344
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13344
|
Why laser is not used to melt/soften material in polyjet?
|
2020-04-05T10:04:44.620
|
# Question
Title: Why laser is not used to melt/soften material in polyjet?
Polyjet uses UV light to cure UV curable plastic material. I was wondering as to why laser light can't be used to soften/melt just any plastic material instead of using UV light to cure only UV curable plastic materials?
# Answer
The question in the title references a specific printer technology, while the question in the body of the post is more generic and is the one being answered here.
There are 3D printers which use lasers to cure liquid resin in a manner similar to MSLA 3D printers. The vat of resin sits atop a transparent panel, under which a laser assembly resides. The computer directs the laser over the surface of the panel in a manner associated with each layer of the print. Once the layer is completed, the bed is lifted, peeling the print from the base of the vat and then lowered again.
There are some printers which apply the laser to the surface of the liquid but the results are the same. The resin is photosensitive and cures when the laser is applied.
Additionally, there are SLS 3D printers. Selective Laser Sintering uses a laser applied to the surface of a nylon powder (one example) which sinters the nylon causing it to bond to adjacent particles. When a layer is completed, the bed of powder is lowered and another layer of powder is applied. The laser again "draws" the layer in the powder and the process continues.
This method requires compensation for shrinking, as the nylon powder changes dimensions as it is melted. The bed is also pre-heated prior to printing in order to reduce the amount of energy required by the laser to sinter the design.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-material, material, polyjet-printer, plastic
---
|
thread-13331
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13331
|
Unable to compile Marlin for Anet A8
|
2020-04-03T21:17:40.410
|
# Question
Title: Unable to compile Marlin for Anet A8
```
Printer: Prusa i3 clone / Anet A8
Arduino IDE: Ver 1.8.12
Firmware: Marlin-2.0.2
anet-board-master: 1.5.6 (from hardware/anet/avr/platform.txt 2018-03-02)
Configurations-relese: 2.0.5 (Configuration.h, -adv.h)
OS: Windows 10
Board selection: Anet V1.0
```
I successfully upgraded the stock firmware to a version with bootloader, calibrated and had it running. I started to add features one at a time, recompile and upload. I managed to break it while trying to improve the LCD button debounce which I increased to 25 ms:
```
#if HAS_ADC_BUTTONS
#define ADC_BUTTON_DEBOUNCE_DELAY 16 // (ms) Increase if buttons bounce or repeat too fast
#endif
```
The compile worked, transferred, showed the splash screen and went blank. This repeated on power-cycle. I reversed the change but was unable to restore operation.
I have tried reinstalling Arduino IDE, copying the folders in again and compiling with the default configurations. I'm getting lots of errors and the compiler exits with:
```
C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Temp\arduino_build_938465\sketch\src\MarlinCore.cpp:470:11: note: in expansion of macro 'disable_Z'
disable_Z();
^~~~~~~~~
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Anet V1.0.
```
Can anyone give me some guidance on how to get going again?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I'm almost back in business.
1. I reinstalled the bootloader.
2. I switched from Arduino IDE to Visual Studio Code to compile using Crosslink's Anet A8 (Plus) Marlin 2.0 Installation Upgrade YouTube tutorial.
**1. Bootloader**
I'm using a Chinese USBasp and there are some confusing tutorials on the web which require upgrading the USBasp firmware using another USBasp or Arduino. I avoided this as follows:
* I used the Arduino IDE to open the Example | Blink.ino.
* Tools | Board: "Anet V1.0 (Optiboot)". (Opti in optiboot means "optimised" so the bootloader will take up less space allowing you to use more options in your Marlin configuration.h.)
* Tools | Programmer: "USBasp".
* Tools | Burn Booloader. (This will generate the hex file to be transferred to the Anet board. Save it somewhere you will find it.)
Download and install AVRDUDESS if you haven't got it. I used Ver. 2.11. Connect the USBasp to the Anet board and your computer.
* Start AVRDUDESS.
* Port: usb.
* Baud rate: 250000.
* Hit the Detect button and it should identify your Anet board.
* Hit the Flash \[...\] button and select the **Blink.ino.with\_bootloader.sanguino.hex** file.
* Hit the **Program** button. It should all work.
You now have an Anet board with the OptiBootLoader installed.
Now follow Crosslink's video tutorial above using the normal USB connection.
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8
---
|
thread-13352
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13352
|
Sketchup designed "Block with hole" printed solid in Cura
|
2020-04-06T05:31:11.467
|
# Question
Title: Sketchup designed "Block with hole" printed solid in Cura
When I export my SketchUp STL model to Cura it looks good in solid mode but in the layers mode some holes are filled up. To find the reason why, I broke down the original model by deleting the parts that come out ok, and ended up with a block 50x100 mm with a hole 30x20 mm in it. This simple stucture looks manifold, no double lines etc, and does not have red parts in Cura xray.
Cura shows the model as expected, but in layers mode the hole is filled up. I spent many hours to find out, but so far my only solution is to start over again drawing a complete new model and even then this happens again.
I'm using SketchUp 2019, Cura 4, Meshlab 2020
What goes wrong here? How can I repair this with Meshlab?
STL file available on request.
# Answer
## Problem Statement
SketchUp does not always create STLs in ways that are closed, watertight manifolds - a block with a bore is, if created as a block first and then bored out, actually 2 surfaces if made with SketchUp:
* a cylinder with its normals facing inside and no top and bottom
* a block that has 2 holes in opposite surfaces
The two surfaces are not connected. As a result, Cura sees two non-manifolds and tries to fix each of them - the cylinder with the normals facing inside is considered an artifact that can't be fixed, the holes in the block are stitched and thus turned into a solid block.
---
## Fixing
To repair the issue, you could load the item into for example MeshMixer, which allows to separate and show the different surfaces (shells) and run a rather good auto-fix.
Another program that, with a little handiwork could help is blender. In blender you can first import the STL, then merge the vertices at the edge of the bore and cut cube and thus turn the two shells into one neatly, then re-export it as an STL. I strongly suggest to just add it to your Steam library if you want to keep it up to date.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, 3d-models, stl, sketchup
---
|
thread-13353
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13353
|
Thermal runaway triggers when raising temperature amid cooldown
|
2020-04-06T05:40:58.337
|
# Question
Title: Thermal runaway triggers when raising temperature amid cooldown
I've noticed an interesting behavior on my Ender 3 with SKR Mini E3 mainboard and Marlin 2.0.x bugfix firmware. (*otherwise, all other hardware is entirely stock*) After the hotend/bed are commanded to cool down, e.g. after a print completes, I have to wait until after they both cool down to ambient before commanding another temperature setpoint.
If I don't do this, the printer most often triggers thermal runaway protection. (*usually citing the extruder, but also sometimes the bed*) I think this might be due to the thermal inertia in the material between the heater and thermistors, causing a 5-10 second delay in sensed temperature rise. I don't see any reason why thermal runaway should trigger; the Octoprint temperature graph looks completely normal, with no perceptible anomalies.
Is there some way to tune parameters for thermal runaway protection to alleviate this false-positive situation?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes there are ways to tune false positives. For Marlin firmware you can find these option in the Configuration\_adv.h file.
From the file itself you can read what you need to do:
> ```
> * If you get false positives for "Thermal Runaway", increase
> * THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD
> */
>
> ```
---
Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, skr-mini-e3
---
|
thread-12236
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12236
|
Will the TMC2130 V3.0 stepper driver work with the Ramps 1.6 Plus board?
|
2020-03-24T11:36:54.923
|
# Question
Title: Will the TMC2130 V3.0 stepper driver work with the Ramps 1.6 Plus board?
I want to buy the board Ramps 1.6 Plus. The description in the link says that is compatible with the driver TMC2130, but I found that there are two versions soldered in SPI mode.
* BIGTREETECH TMC2130 V3.0. Where the diagnosis pins are soldered as well
* TMC2130 V?. In this other product those pins are not soldered and I believe it will fit in the board
As you can see in the image other boards like the SKR 1.3 have some socket to plug in the diagnosis pins. But I don't see something similar in the Ramps 1.6, which has male pins instead.
* Should I remove those pins in order to plug the driver? Or is there a better way to proceed?
* I don't really know what the diagnosis pins do, are they really necessary? Should I buy the second option without those pins soldered to avoid problems?
# Answer
Well I found that I can use a DuPont cable to connect the diag1 pin to the right endstop
There is also a beta functionality in the Marlin firmware I haven't tried: Just uncommenting `SPI_ENDSTOPS` definition
```
* SPI_ENDSTOPS *** Beta feature! *** TMC2130 Only ***
* Poll the driver through SPI to determine load when homing.
* Removes the need for a wire from DIAG1 to an endstop pin.
*
* IMPROVE_HOMING_RELIABILITY tunes acceleration and jerk when
* homing and adds a guard period for endstop triggering.
*/
#define SENSORLESS_HOMING // StallGuard capable drivers only
#if EITHER(SENSORLESS_HOMING, SENSORLESS_PROBING)
// TMC2209: 0...255. TMC2130: -64...63
#define X_STALL_SENSITIVITY 8
#define X2_STALL_SENSITIVITY X_STALL_SENSITIVITY
#define Y_STALL_SENSITIVITY 8
//#define Z_STALL_SENSITIVITY 8
//#define SPI_ENDSTOPS // TMC2130 only
//#define IMPROVE_HOMING_RELIABILITY
#endif
```
> 1 votes
---
Tags: stepper-driver, skr-v1.3, bigtreetech, ramps-1.6, tmc2130
---
|
thread-13366
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13366
|
Problem printing circles/holes on Anycubic I3 mega
|
2020-04-08T08:28:42.607
|
# Question
Title: Problem printing circles/holes on Anycubic I3 mega
For some time I've been struggling to print models with holes going all the way through from top to bottom. Models without those holes print out just fine. I've spend quite some time on levelling the bed, so I think the levelling is fine. I'm using Cura 4.5 with the default settings (normal profile) for the Anycubic I3 mega.
At first I had the problem of the initial circles not sticking to the bed. This is what it looked like:
Then (after doing a lot of searching on the internet) I changed the following settings in Cura:
* Initial layer height: **0.1** -\> **0.3**
* Optimize wall printing order: **false** -\> **true**
After that the circles seemed to stick better, but still the bottom layer looks quite messy. This is a picture of the bottom of the object printed with these settings:
And this is what it looks like from the top:
As you can see, it still gets quite messy around the circles, and they seem to be detached from the rest of the model.
After this (and doing a lot more browsing) I decided to make the following change in Cura:
* Retraction extra prime amount **0** -\> **0.07**
But to be honest, I have not clue what this really does. This is what the initial layer (of another model) looked liked after changing that setting:
And after a couple of layers it looked like this:
Now (finally) my question, does anyone have an idea on how to make my prints (especially the connection of the circles with the rest of the model) better?
Thanks!
# Answer
> 2 votes
From your images can be seen that:
* Your nozzle is too far from the bed (the lines are not touching), so you either need to level with a less thick paper or allow for more friction between the paper and the nozzle. There is also a plugin for Cura to set a Z-offset.
* You need to enable `Combing mode` = `Not in Skin` and possibly fine tune your retraction settings.
* You could benefit from some more adhesion using an adhesion spray.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, pla, adhesion, anycubic-i3-mega
---
|
thread-13358
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13358
|
Ender 3 nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer as the print progresses
|
2020-04-07T09:19:21.100
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer as the print progresses
I'm trying to print a lithophane with my Ender 3, but the nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer, layer after layer.
I thought that what was causing the problem was perhaps a gear lock due to the fact that the Z rod wasn't parallel to the vertical axis, but after fixing it the problem remains.
The bed is super planar and perfectly levelled and, in fact, the first layer comes out perfectly. Extrusion is also okay. The printer seems fine in all aspects.
It seems like the seriousness of the problem is proportional to the number of layers, just like the printer is losing a fixed height by each layer.
I've ruled out the possibility of wrong calibration of Z steps because after measuring a cube of 12 cm of height and telling the printer to raise 12 cm the cube fits perfectly under the nozzle with the levelling gap (so perfect calibration).
**What do you think may be the problem?**
# Answer
> 3 votes
Finally I've found the damn problem: **Adjustable rollers of all axes were flat on one point** making layers to shift in all directions.
The effect was less visible on the X and Y axes but it was more notable in the Z axis as the flat part was right from the start of the print. I think that flat part was making difficult for the Z axis to move upward, and making my prints fail when printing at higher resolutions (I guess the finer the displacement the weaker the torque).
It seemed to me that the nozzle was getting closer to the previous layer but instead it was resting (or barely moving) on the flat part of the Z right adjustable roller first and then on the other adjustable roller of the same axis.
**To diagnose the problem disable the steppers and moved the axes manually and feel if there are notches**, so to speak, in various spots on every axis.
**The solution is to replace the rollers** with new ones and to not close them too tight otherwise they'll deform over time.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis
---
|
thread-13371
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13371
|
How can I include seperate Slicing Parameters in my 3mf file
|
2020-04-08T21:36:05.040
|
# Question
Title: How can I include seperate Slicing Parameters in my 3mf file
I am trying to write a program that edits a 3mf file by defines different slicing parameters for different stls that I have previously merged into my 3mf file, but I am a little bit confused about the configuration of the 3mf file, and where I would look to make changes in the slicing parameters. Can anyone lead me in the right direction as to where I could look? I'm assuming that I wouldn't be making any changes to the .model file because it seems like it only holds information about the meshes.
Thanks and let me know if it would be helpful for me to clarify anything.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Huh. On a hunch I just changed a copy of a .3mf model to have a `.zip` file extension, and what do you know, it works! 3mf is just a set of compressed xml.
The zip folder structure I saw included a `MetaData` folder. I bet you could put just about anything you wanted in there, as long as it doesn't conflict with things other 3mf parsers are expecting to find.
I tested this. I dumped an unrelated pdf file into the folder and re-zipped it. Both MS 3D Builder and Cura were able to open the updated file just fine. However, saving the file again in 3D Builder did not preserve the PDF.
I suppose there's a lesson here, too: we may need to be wary of models we download off the internet. They could include literally **anything**.
This also raises an interesting possibility: password protected 3mf files. If 3mf is just a zip container, and zip files can have passwords, it follows logically that 3mf files can have passwords.
---
Tags: 3d-models, stl, prusaslicer
---
|
thread-13349
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13349
|
Is there any reason not to clean nozzles with fire?
|
2020-04-06T00:09:49.673
|
# Question
Title: Is there any reason not to clean nozzles with fire?
Specifically using stainless steel nozzles, but I guess it's worth knowing about brass too. Is there any reason to be concerned about dimensional accuracy of the nozzle or anything like that as a result of repeated heating with a butane torch?
# Answer
If you carbonize the filament or other particles that are clogging the nozzle, then you will never get them clean. In my experience, it's not worth cleaning the nozzle with anything other than cleaning filament. If that doesn't work then change the nozzle. Heating the metal nozzle with a torch will change the temper of the material. I used to try cleaning with a soldering iron; which was to no avail.
Purchase a dozen brass nozzles and save your self the headache. Either that or a good quality set of stainless steel ones. They are easier to clean with the cleaning filament and aren't ablated by the filament as quickly, allowing for better dimensional accuracy over multiple prints.
https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-CLEANING-Filament-Printers-Cleaning/dp/B00MVIYNFW/
> 4 votes
# Answer
If you can get the torch hot enough and you carbonise/burn the filament properly, it may work. You still need to do a cold pull to remove as many residues as you can, but if you heated it enough, the residuals maybe won't stick too much to the nozzle.
You already have the butane, try and tell us.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: nozzle, cleaning
---
|
thread-13378
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13378
|
Is PLA safe for masks?
|
2020-04-10T13:46:55.513
|
# Question
Title: Is PLA safe for masks?
So in light of the in going pandemic, I have begun printing masks for my family and a few friends. As I was printing them the thought occurred to me, "Is PLA safe to be breathing off of?" So that is my question. Is PLA safe to breathe off of or does it need to be coated with, for example, a food grade epoxy?
I am using Matterhackers standard black PLA and a stock ender-3 printer.
Thank you for your time and stay safe!
# Answer
PLA itself should be safe, at least chemically, but there's no guarantee that additives in a particular filament manufacturer's material are safe. From this standpoint it would be best to use an uncolored "natural" (comes out translucent but cloudy when printed) PLA from a manufacturer who documents that it has no added ingredients. It's also plausible (not saying this is necessarily the case) that there's fine particulate matter produced by heating or in the extruder gear that ends up on the surfaces.
However, in the bigger picture/XY-question, it's unlikely that printed masks provide safety against viral transmission. Especially with a rigid material like PLA, they're not going to make an air-tight fit with your face, and they're likely not air-tight themselves even if they do (due to imperfect extrusion, slight gaps between layers at least intermittently). This could perhaps be mitigated by using a separate edge material to make a tight fit with face, and sealing the print like you suggested. However, once you make it air-tight, it's unsafe for another reason: **it's a suffocation hazard**! Just because you insert a filter to breathe through doesn't mean that you're actually going to be able to breathe through it properly.
Naomi Wu a.k.a. Sexy Cyborg (well known for working with Creality, open source/OSHW compliance in China, and popularizing the Ender 3) has done a number of twitter threads on what the dangers are and why it's unsafe and irresponsible to be creating air-tight 3D-printed masks if you're not qualified for designing this type of device. Here is one. A highlight:
> This results in CO2 buildup. After about 30 minutes your plastic mask, if actually airtight and strapped securely to your face will, before you can take it off, kill you- very peacefully. You'll just slump over and go to sleep, but you'll still be dead.
> 6 votes
---
Tags: pla, safety
---
|
thread-13381
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13381
|
Alternating number of lines for the shell between layers
|
2020-04-10T17:46:50.973
|
# Question
Title: Alternating number of lines for the shell between layers
Is is possible to have alternating numbers of lines for the outer wall between each layer? So, say, one layer will have 3 lines for the wall, the next layer, 2, then the next layer 3, then 2 again, and so on? Even better, if I could group them in twos: two layers with 3 lines, two layers with 2 lines, repeat until done.
I use Cura, but if other slicers can do this I'd like to hear about it, too.
# Answer
> 3 votes
It is possible to get an alternate extra wall in Ultimaker Cura, the option is called `Alternate extra wall`. It can be used to catch the infill more firmly, strengthening the print.
From Ultimaker support:
> ## Alternate extra wall
>
> This setting adds an extra wall every other layer. This way the infill gets caught between the walls, resulting in stronger prints. For example, if you set the wall line count to two walls and enable alternate extra wall, it will print two walls on even numbered layers and three walls on odd numbered layers.
I've used this option frequently, but I'm not aware of any option that you can change the amount of layers alternating. You can do that probably with the option to set different options for different sections of the model, see e.g. "Different infill in the same part".
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing
---
|
thread-13321
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13321
|
FlashPrint visual glitch on Linux (Debian testing)
|
2020-04-03T09:06:05.493
|
# Question
Title: FlashPrint visual glitch on Linux (Debian testing)
I have a problem with all versions of FlashPrint on Linux (Linux Debian 5.4.0-4-amd64 #1 SMP Debian 5.4.19-1 (2020-02-13) x86\_64 GNU/Linux).
I tried to install versions from 3.28 to the latest 4.2, and it's always the same problem, when I try to preview the print, I see a purple glitch.
I think it's more a dependency problem, but if someone car help me figuring this out, it will be great.
I have no error when I launch in a console, and here is the dependency :
```
ldd FlashPrint
linux-vdso.so.1 (0x00007fff1d3ea000)
libGLU.so.1 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libGLU.so.1 (0x00007f57cb19f000)
librt.so.1 => /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/librt.so.1 (0x00007f57cb194000)
libudev.so.1 => /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libudev.so.1 (0x00007f57cb169000)
libQt5OpenGL.so.5 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5OpenGL.so.5 (0x00007f57cb10f000)
libQt5Widgets.so.5 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5Widgets.so.5 (0x00007f57caa8a000)
libQt5Gui.so.5 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5Gui.so.5 (0x00007f57ca4ae000)
libQt5Network.so.5 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5Network.so.5 (0x00007f57ca2f1000)
libQt5Xml.so.5 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5Xml.so.5 (0x00007f57ca2b0000)
libQt5Core.so.5 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libQt5Core.so.5 (0x00007f57c9d76000)
libGL.so.1 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libGL.so.1 (0x00007f57c9cef000)
libpthread.so.0 => /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libpthread.so.0 (0x00007f57c9cce000)
libm.so.6 => /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libm.so.6 (0x00007f57c9b89000)
libgcc_s.so.1 => /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libgcc_s.so.1 (0x00007f57c9b6d000)
libc.so.6 => /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libc.so.6 (0x00007f57c99aa000)
/lib64/ld-linux-x86-64.so.2 (0x00007f57cb25c000)
libstdc++.so.6 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libstdc++.so.6 (0x00007f57c97dd000)
libpng16.so.16 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libpng16.so.16 (0x00007f57c97a4000)
libz.so.1 => /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libz.so.1 (0x00007f57c9787000)
libharfbuzz.so.0 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libharfbuzz.so.0 (0x00007f57c9682000)
libdl.so.2 => /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libdl.so.2 (0x00007f57c967b000)
libicui18n.so.63 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libicui18n.so.63 (0x00007f57c93a4000)
libicuuc.so.63 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libicuuc.so.63 (0x00007f57c91d3000)
libpcre2-16.so.0 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libpcre2-16.so.0 (0x00007f57c9150000)
libdouble-conversion.so.3 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libdouble-conversion.so.3 (0x00007f57c9139000)
libglib-2.0.so.0 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libglib-2.0.so.0 (0x00007f57c9010000)
libGLdispatch.so.0 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libGLdispatch.so.0 (0x00007f57c8f58000)
libGLX.so.0 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libGLX.so.0 (0x00007f57c8f24000)
libfreetype.so.6 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libfreetype.so.6 (0x00007f57c8e65000)
libgraphite2.so.3 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libgraphite2.so.3 (0x00007f57c8e39000)
libicudata.so.63 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libicudata.so.63 (0x00007f57c7448000)
libpcre.so.3 => /lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libpcre.so.3 (0x00007f57c73d2000)
libX11.so.6 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libX11.so.6 (0x00007f57c7290000)
libxcb.so.1 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libxcb.so.1 (0x00007f57c7266000)
libXau.so.6 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libXau.so.6 (0x00007f57c7062000)
libXdmcp.so.6 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libXdmcp.so.6 (0x00007f57c6e5c000)
libbsd.so.0 => /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libbsd.so.0 (0x00007f57c6e40000)
```
# Answer
> 0 votes
In addition to the open-source niceties of OpenGL, you need to will often need to install and update the drivers for your GPU. If you do not wish to or cannot utilize your GPU (it'll cost you in performance), look for options to turn off hardware acceleration or use a purely "software renderer" typesetting.
I don't know if FlashPrint has such settings, but I do know that OpenGL can do some screwy stuff if you lack correct Nvidia drivers (and have an Nvidia GPU).
---
Tags: linux, flashprint
---
|
thread-13386
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13386
|
How to I assign an imported STl file to a variable, polygon, or otherwise manipulate it?
|
2020-04-11T00:19:57.243
|
# Question
Title: How to I assign an imported STl file to a variable, polygon, or otherwise manipulate it?
I have 2 STL files that I want to chop, rotate, and glue together. If I printed them and literally chopped and glued them together, I would be done. Very simple operations.
I imported them both into OpenSCAD, but I can't find docs or figure out a way to do anything to the STL files once they are imported. They imported fine. I don't know how to assign a variable name to the imported object, which I presume is the next step before I can rotate and move the objects around. I might be going in the wrong direction though, I don't know. usually during an import of a module you can assign a variable name, or instantiate it. Since the import also instantiates it, I'm at a loss for what to do next. I've programmed in a smattering of languages, but haven't touched OpenSCAD in ~3+ years.
When searching, I find a cornucopia of slightly related information like how to import a file from 2011, but nothing about how to work with it once it's been imported.
# Answer
One can create a module to import the respective STL files.
> module bring\_it\_on\_1() {
>
> import("c:/user/models/egg\_on\_face.stl");
>
> }
>
> translate(\[-10, 20, 0\])
>
> bring\_it\_on\_1();
Other modifiers can be used and will act on the STL file appropriately.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: openscad
---
|
thread-13391
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13391
|
Can I print directly onto the bed plate? (Ender 3 Pro)
|
2020-04-11T12:07:51.927
|
# Question
Title: Can I print directly onto the bed plate? (Ender 3 Pro)
I just got an Ender 3 Pro at the beginning of the week and have been printing a lot. I creased the magnetic plate cover, not realizing how it would hold up to being bent. This led to uneven printing and nozzle issues, so I stopped using it.
Is there any problem with printing directly onto the platform itself, without a cover?
# Answer
I've printed for several years direct onto the 3 mm heated bed of the Anet A8 I used; worked perfectly! I did use a specific 3D print spray for adhesion, see e.g. this answer on "Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer?".
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bed
---
|
thread-13397
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13397
|
Measuring the legs of the triangle instead of the hypotenuse in Fusion 360 sketch
|
2020-04-12T10:40:33.820
|
# Question
Title: Measuring the legs of the triangle instead of the hypotenuse in Fusion 360 sketch
When creating a sketch in Fusion 360, when drawing lines at an angle, it shows the length of the line:
# Answer
For this, use a construction line:
1. draw the approximate line
2. press `x` to go into the construction-line mode
3. pres `l` for the line tool
4. Draw a line from the end to the base
5. constrict it orthogonal to the base, turning it into the height
6. press `d` to go into defining distance mode
7. click on the dotted line
8. type in the height
9. press `x` again to get back to normal lines.
10. complete the triangle
> 1 votes
---
Tags: fusion360
---
|
thread-13375
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13375
|
Prusa MK3S weird 'Blobs' on PLA print surface
|
2020-04-09T12:50:36.637
|
# Question
Title: Prusa MK3S weird 'Blobs' on PLA print surface
This is the first time I've run into this problem and it seems very confusing. I wanted to print a simple functional part out of PLA and although the first few layers were fine, the 6th/7th layer started to have some weird 'blobs'/deformations on it. I don't know how to fix it and the problem didn't go away after changing the filament. I suppose the problem is related either to my settings or the printer. It is very weird, I fully calibrated the printer right after the first fail.
Settings:
* nozzle 215 °C
* bed 60 °C
* speed 100, 50 mm/s for bridges
* cooling 100 %, but no autocooling in order to print faster
* using PrusaSlicer
Photo:
# Answer
> 2 votes
After hours of trying to fix the problem by trial and error I found that getting the nozzle slightly higher by approximately 0.1 mm was the solution. I cleaned the rods from dust, tightened most of the screws again and calibrated the printer.
I don't encounter this problem anymore even while printing at 150 mm/s speeds.
---
Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, pla
---
|
thread-13401
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13401
|
PID tuning 50 W cartridge in Marlin
|
2020-04-12T19:58:24.887
|
# Question
Title: PID tuning 50 W cartridge in Marlin
Recently I decided to upgrade my Geeetech A10 (GT2560 v3.0 board) with E3D Chimera, Marlin 2.0.3 and more powerful 50 W heater cartridge. I wired everything up and tried to PID tune the hot end, but I got a problem.
When the tuning ends and I use the values with `M301`, the values are too agressive and the hot end initially overshoots more than 15 °C. After that the temperature is rock steady.
The tuned values are `P=9.4 I=0.47` and `D=46.4`.
I tried to change the values according the wikipedia table to no overshoot (`P=3,13 I=0.47` and `D=123.7`), but it just made the temperature unstable.
I also tried to tune the values manually but with no succes. I even tried to use zeros for all three gains but it just oscilated ±10 °C and still overshot.
My guess is that the cartridge is too powerful for the Marlin PID tuning.
Is there a setting in the firmware where I can set the PWM value for the PID tuning? To slow the heating down? I tried to use `M301 E1 P0.25 S200 C10` but it seems that it didnt use the `P` parameter.
Or is there a way to manually tune the values without the printer? I've got an Arduin Uno and RPi Zero availible. Or do I have to buy another less powerful cartridge?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Besides the `P`, `I` and `D` values, you may also have to tune `PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE` and `PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX`.
Basically, the functional range disables PID control when more than the set number of degrees away from the target temperature and just puts the heater to zero/maximum power. The integral drive max parameter limits the value of the integral term of the PID controller.
The RepRap wiki notes: *(note this wiki is dated! some options might not be available)*
> In Marlin, the parameters that control and limit the PID controller can have more significant effects than the popular PID parameters. For example, PID\_MAX and PID\_FUNCTIONAL\_RANGE, and PID\_INTEGRAL\_DRIVE\_MAX can each have dramatic, unexpected effects on PID behavior. For instance, a too-large PID\_MAX on a high-power heater can make autotuning impossible; a too-small PID\_FUNCTIONAL\_RANGE can cause odd reset behavior; a too large PID\_FUNCTIONAL\_RANGE can guarantee overshoot; and a too-small PID\_INTEGRAL\_DRIVE\_MAX can cause droop.
My hunch is that the functional range may be too small; the PID doesn't kick in until close to the desired temperature at which point you will already have overshot the target (due to the high power heater and delay in the measurements). Once you've overshot the target temperature the integral term starts growing (negative) which causes the massive undershoot.
---
Tags: marlin, hotend, heat-management, pid
---
|
thread-13402
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13402
|
Getting the Turnigy Fabrikator Mini V2 to a usable state
|
2020-04-12T23:32:57.817
|
# Question
Title: Getting the Turnigy Fabrikator Mini V2 to a usable state
I recently bought a second hand Turnigy Fabrikator Mini V2, which, as far as I can tell, is a rebrand of the Malyan M100. After my first few prints I noticed that my prints were very stringy and the filament really didn't want to stick to the bed.
I asked a guy who has quite a bit of experience with 3D printing what could be the problem. He took a look at my benchy print and said it was way too light for a benchy and recommended I'd look at my feedrate (I think the setting is called). So, in repetier host, I told the printer to extrude 50 (I am assuming this is mm, this interface is a little wierd), I am also assuming that this number is the amount of fillament going into the printer, not the amount that comes out of the nozzle. So, I measured that, and it did seem that the amount of fillament going into the printer in was definately a lot less than 50 mm.
As far as I understand this is a setting in the EEPROM. So, I connected to it using minicom (generic USB commandline interface) and sent the command `M503`, and after doing that, I got a bunch of settings in my terminal (formatting was a mess though and I am not sure if it was complete). After sending this command a second time, nothing happened and after a lot of disconnecting and connecting of the USB cable I figured out that this works only sometimes. I can't figure out how to get it to work consistently (`G28` to home the printer always just works though).
I also tried connecting to the printer with other applications like for example Pronterface, but I haven't had any success with anything except for Repetier-host on Windows (I usually use Linux).
So then because I'd like to be able to change EEPROM settings and because I'd like to interface with the printer on Linux I decided that it might be a good idea to update the firmware. So, as a first step, I want to know what firware it is currently running. I couldn't find much information on the Malyan website, (I found a firmware download button that returned a 404) and I also couldn't find much on HobbyKing (the website that used to sell this printer). So, then I tried to send it the `M115` command, and yet again, I got nothing back from the printer (I don't know if I never get a response or if I'd get something back after a hundred attempts).
So, now my questions are: what do I do from here? Do I just assume my printer uses some version of Marlin? I remember hearing that a lot of manifacturers just grab off the shelf open source firmware. Is there any way I could get a clue about what it is running? I know there is an stm32 on the pcb so that may be a hint. Could I put something like Marlin on it even if it wasn't running that initially? is that even a good idea? I am assuming I'd at least have to tell it the pin mapping.
Here are images of 2 of the benchy's I printed. I stopped one of them half way through. The other one was my first print and the print speed was way too fast. I also did another print with slower settings but I can't find that one right now (that one was kinda stringy).
##
As a clarification of my question. As far as I know I have an under extrusion problem, and this is a problem that should (as far as I know) be fixed by changing the extrusion rate in firmware. My problem is that I don't know how to change this setting as I don't even know what firmware it is running. On top of this, when I try sending commands like `M503` I get really inconsistent responses. I came to the conclusion of putting new firmware on it because I can think of no other way to fix this problem.
The right question here is probably: how do I change the extrusion rate in the firmware of this specific printer. (Any other solutions are welcome too of course. I have thought about just telling the slicer to compensate in the other direction but as far as I've read it is generally not a good solution to just say in your G-code to compensate for the under extrusion)
So, today I did a lot of testing. And I concluded that when I just insert some fillament into the printer and it hasn't reached the nozzle yet, it extrudes the right amount, but when it reaches the nozzle it just extrudes a lot less. So it seems to be a mechanical problem. I can change the extrusion command to actual extrusion ratio by extruding slower or by increasing the heat of the nozzle. But I have to go quite slow `G1 F50 E50` to get anywhere near the right amount of extrusion (still a little more than half a cm short in this case). I did some test prints and it definately seems to make a difference to print slower. These cubes were printed with the one on the right being printed at a little less than half the speed as the one on the right.
I guess it has come to troubleshooting the actual physical extruder (or is this stuff normal and am I just supposed to print at slow speeds on this printer).
The printer is using one of those extruders where the fillament is fed into a tube leading to the nozzle.
The round thingey seems to be turning but it doesn't seem to grip the fillament well enough.
# Answer
> 1 votes
As there are multiple questions, I'm focusing on the actual problem that causes the Benchy print results (getting it to stick or firmware will not be answered).
Note that a Benchy is a nice, well known print, it actually isn't a good example to calibrate the printer; it is preferred to print calibration cubes, preferably the ones with embossed X, Y and Z.
Under extrusion is usually a result of incorrect hardware/firmware setup or a slicer error. It can also be blockage, but then the extruder needs to skip filament once in a while.
The prints show severe under extrusion. Note that 50 (in the slicer, extrusion rate) means 50 %, this should be 100 %. Basically, you tell the printer that it may only use half the amount of filament it needs to print the object. Furthermore, when you command 100 mm to be extruded, the actual displacement of filament also need to be 100 mm. See "How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?".
If you really commanded an extrusion of 50 mm (e.g. `G1 F250 E50`, first reset the length with `G92 E0`), the amount of filament that is extruded should be exactly 50 mm. If the extruded length is incorrect, the steps/mm in your firmware is incorrect. You can look them up (or change them) with G-code `M92`.
Please measure your filament diameter at several positions and if it is consistently different from 1.75 mm update the value in your slicer with the mean value.
---
*A very common mistake for people using Cura for the first time is that the Cura default filament diameter is 2.85 mm, not 1.75 mm. But, if you commanded the extrusion yourself with a G-code, it should exactly extrude that amount. If that works, but your print still are under extruded, look into your slicer options.*
---
Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting
---
|
thread-11621
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11621
|
What is the difference between M420 S and M420 S1?
|
2019-12-24T08:15:56.250
|
# Question
Title: What is the difference between M420 S and M420 S1?
I have been reading through the Marlin website about ABL (Auto Bed Leveling) and I see what appears to be conflicting information.
At https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto\_bed\_leveling.html it states that running `G28` (Auto Home) will turn off ABL and that to reactivate it you need to insert the code `M420 S1`.
However at https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html it states:
> `G28` disables bed leveling. Follow with `M420 S` to turn leveling on, or use `RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28` to automatically keep leveling on after `G28`
The latter is referring mostly to manual bed leveling, but in this section is referring to ABL.
So what is the difference between the `S` and the `S1` options?
# Answer
> 9 votes
## TL;DR
**Short answer**: "There is no difference!".
---
**Long answer**
G-code is parsed line by line. The parser in the firmware reads the command and the options (also called parameters) following it, comments are discarded.
Therefore, option `S` should be followed by a Boolean value `0` for False or `1` for True. Without a value it is undefined and should be reported as incorrect or treated as false (in my opinion). But, the developers have chosen differently. If a Boolean value is expected and the value is not given, the parameter is parsed as `true`. This has analogy with other software options or switches like e.g. used by Linux commands.
This means that for Marlin the G-code `M420 S` is exactly the same as `M420 S1`.
*I've checked this with another command (this is not depending on the G-code command as there is a single parser processiong the G-codes and the following parameters); `M211` where `M211 S` is exactly the same as `M211 S1`*.
---
Tags: marlin, g-code, bed-leveling
---
|
thread-11450
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11450
|
First layer looks weird and print fails
|
2019-11-30T16:54:34.203
|
# Question
Title: First layer looks weird and print fails
## Update below
Printed 650 of these tokens, no problem. Then all of a sudden I can't get them to stick and the first layer looks wavy and weird.
After a few tokens it knocks one loose and the whole print fails.
Did try to recalibrate the z-height. Should it be even closer? The test pattern for first layer height looks good.
Removed the nozzle to inspect if it's damaged but it looks fine to me...
Any help is much appreciated.
# Update - Dec 29th 2019
With the new nozzle and recalibration I managed to get one more print to stick as in my answer below. Then back to not sticking.
I did order a textured plate from Prusa. Recalibrated the XYZ. That did not help.
I have played around with the first layer calibration. In the video below the setting of -0.900 is fixed the whole time. The lines look good and healthy but then lifts on the right side of the bed.
Video of first layer calibration
I then moved the nozzle even closer and REALLY smash it into the bed @ -1.050
It still lifts on the right side and a little bit in the corners. The first purge plastic that is output to the bottom left usually does not stick at all.
Untouched with nozzle closer
Things I have done:
* Recalibrated the XY & Z axis from scratch.
* Did two cold pulls of the filament (link) to make sure the extruder is not clogged. The pulled filament looked nice and clean.
* Switched to new textured bed sheet
* Switched to a new 0.4mm nozzle (E3D V6)
* Tried different filaments (only PLA though)
* Lubricated moving parts
* Checked heat bed to make sure screws are tight and the bed sits snuggly
Two ideas now:
Can it be the mesh leveling that is acting up? How do I check that?
The heat bed feels differently warm in different places. Is the heat bed constructed with different zones where one can fail and the rest keep working? Do not have access to a heat camera to check.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
# EDIT:
Thanks @Paulster2! It's good to find this community!
I've been using several different PLA filaments since this started happening. Before, they all stuck to the printing bed like champions, now none of them do. Pictured is som generic white, but getting the same result with Prusament PLA. Nozzle 215°C, Bed 60°C. As I wrote above, I did check the nozzle and it *LOOKS* fine. It's very small though and I have ordered new nozzles. If no one has any other suggestions I will post more when I have tried the new nozzle.
Also thanks to @Greenonline for correcting spelling and layout. Cheers!
# Answer
> 5 votes
A new day, a new nozzle, an old result!
## EDIT
The success was a one off. The problem remains!
Heat on the heated bed seems to differ a lot in different areas. Just using my hands to feel it since I have no IR-camera.
# Answer
> 2 votes
A problem I encountered a similar problem with adhesion because the nozzle was pressing straight into the bed. This made the filament squeeze out the side resulting in near zero adhesion. Check that the print bed is levelled and the nozzle isn’t obstructed by anything.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Wait, you have your Z-height at a negative 1 mm+ offset for the first layer? *After* a build plate leveling? I'm surprised your extruder isn't gouging long trenches in your plate surface. Then again, this is a Prusa, they are actually capable of negative offsets from their "zero" unlike many other printers where "zero" is when the microswitch engages at the bottom of the lead screw travel.
From the description of your problem, and what you're printing, my diagnosis is improper bed prep, possibly coupled with some alignment issues. Prusas, unfortunately, fall out of adjustment almost constantly; in addition to usual bed alignment requirements, the dual lead rods have to be kept in perfect alignment at all times, which among other things means you have to be really careful manhandling the printer to get things off the build plate. Your first video shows a pretty decent extrusion line at first, with problems occurring as you get close to the front right corner, which tells me that corner is a bit low, and *maybe* the gantry or the entire right side of the plate is backed off too far.
Your second video has the extruder *way* too close. Even if you're printing a 0.15 mm or 0.1 mm layer height, that is far too thin a layer.
The bed prep, however, is likely the bigger issue. You're compensating for the layer not sticking by moving the extruder closer. That's a possible solution, but you've exhausted that as an option; your extruder's right down on the plate in that first print picture and it's still not sticking. That means the plate is dirty, which if you just spent several minutes prying tokens off the build surface, is only to be expected.
Plate surface preparation is something you need to at least look at between *every single print*. Some prep methods are more durable than others; I've printed dozens of prints on a single layer of kapton tape (which is good, because getting a wrinkle-free, bubble-free layer of kapton down on a non-removable print bed in an enclosed printer design like the MakerBot 2X is a real chore), meanwhile hairspray or blue painter's tape, while easy to apply, might have to be reapplied after every print.
Exactly what you do depends on the build surface and the material you're printing, but the absolute minimum you should be doing, if you print directly on your build surface with zero bed adhesive, is to clean and degrease the bed every time. A little isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) or denatured alcohol ("methylated spirits" for those speaking the King's English) is usually the thing to use, with a paper towel or microfiber cloth and a little elbow grease to really cut any grease layer on that surface.
It may well be that with this Prusa, you will have to give the plate a wipedown with denatured alcohol and then re-check the bed's calibration between every single print. Such is the nature of these RepRap-style printers, developed specifically to make 3D printing more affordable at which they succeed admirably; the tradeoff is the \\$300 printers take a bit more futzing with, while the \\$3000 printers are designed specifically to minimize hands-on work. But even on a \\$6000 industrial printer, you have to prep the bed for each print.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Okay so I am not an expert but I think I can help.
* First off, your **nozzle is too close to your bed**. Take it up, I guess, to like between -0.75 to -0.6 mm. Play around there.
* For not sticking part, see whether it sticks with **higher bed and nozzle temperature**. Higher temperature like for Nozzle: 220-250 °C and for Bed: 65-80 °C. *(Yes its too extreme for PLA filaments but we are observing what happens)*.
* And I couldn't make out from the video, is your **print fan** on? If so, switch it off.
* I would advice to test print with a cube of dimension 200x200x0.2 mm. In your PrusaSlicer, set the *Bottom Fill Pattern* to be "Concentric" and your *First layer height* to be 0.2 mm. (I got this idea from a forum but I cannot recall its name)
* And as mentioned by @KeithS, keeping your **bed clean** is important. With **isopropyl alcohol and cotton balls** wipe the surface. (Though don't this too many times. I have heard that the bed looses its adhesion if done so. After a couple of prints wipe with isopropyl alcohol and before every print wipe just with a kitchen towel).
* If your bed is clean, then use **glue sticks** (note note all glue sticks work) on the print surface right before a print. Don't worry you can take it off after the print.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, adhesion
---
|
thread-13380
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13380
|
Brim around just one section
|
2020-04-10T17:31:22.187
|
# Question
Title: Brim around just one section
I'm looking to print this item:
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4274950
I want to lay it flat on the bed, 90° to how it's shown on Thingiverse. The problem is there's the one little corner on the end of the piece. When placed flat, this corner makes one side of arch. During the print, this section will build up to have much more material up in the air over a relatively small contact point, until the archway is connected.
I'm worried the section will shake loose from the bed. Is it possible to tell Cura to put a brim around just this section, and not the whole piece?
If I have to, I can edit the model the include 0.13 mm thick section there as part of the file. But I'd prefer to slice for this.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I don't know a way to do that with Cura without breaking it up into multiple parts with different settings for each, but what about just enabling supports? You'd only get a very small amount of support material and it would act similarly to a brim to keep the small part from detaching.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I would enable supports using "Touching Build Plate", and then place a support blocker over the portion that you don't want supports added to.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, adhesion, brims
---
|
thread-13413
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13413
|
Prusa MK3S 0.8 mm nozzle layers separating
|
2020-04-14T18:50:19.973
|
# Question
Title: Prusa MK3S 0.8 mm nozzle layers separating
I am currently printing a simple cup out of PLA (I will later anneal it). My nozzle is 0.8 mm and I'm using a 0.4 mm layer height. Unfortunately, the layers keep separating. They don't detach completely, but there are 1 layer-tall, 3-7 mm wide gaps. I increased the temperature, since my speed is 100 mm/s. I also tried decreasing cooling and increasing the flow. This only helped a little bit.
Moreover, small increases in the temperature like 230/240 °C didn't work and now I have to use 270 and even 280 °C, which is crazy, considering my layer height is 0.4 mm. Is there any easy solution that will increase the quality?
Settings:
* Material: PLA
* Layer height: 0.4 mm
* Nozzle: 235 °C first layer, 270 °C for the rest.
* Bed: 60 °C
* Cooling: 62 %
* Speed: 100 mm/s
I have noticed that 280 °C is better for large prints (large area, not height) and small prints look better when I change the temperature to 240/250 °C. This is how my prints look by now. The extrusion is very inconsistent, with overextrusion in the middle of the layers and gaps in the corners:
I suspect that the layer lines are not parallel to the heatbed and are over extruded, because of the high temp. I lowered it to 230 °C and there was no drooping/over extrusion, but there were more 'holes'.
# Answer
> 1 votes
After printing ~30 calibration test cubes I finally figured out the perfect settings.
- Apparently, the extrusion width in my slicer was set to a certain number, instead of percentage. I was printing at 0.45 mm extrusion width, which was ~105 % of the 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, but less than 50 % of the 0.8 mm one. Changing the value to 130-140 % solved the majority of my printing problems.
- As I predicted, the 230-280 ℃ nozzle temp. was ridiculously high, even with the 0.8 mm nozzle. I gradually lowered it to 210 ℃ (ironically, the value I chose at the very beginning).
- There was some warping, so I cleaned the heatbed from the glue, put the glue again and decreased bed temp. to 50 ℃
- Finally, I decreased the flow from 1.3 to 1.05 and everything seems perfect now.
---
Tags: pla, 3d-models, nozzle
---
|
thread-13437
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13437
|
Temp Tower Setup Troubles -- Slic3r (How do you format G-Code {if} statements?)
|
2020-04-17T06:43:18.310
|
# Question
Title: Temp Tower Setup Troubles -- Slic3r (How do you format G-Code {if} statements?)
I watched with great interest this video: Temp Tower - Slic3r Gcode Placeholders - How To - Chris's Basement -- Jan 23, 2019 Chris Riley
I found a model I'm happy with: Smart compact temperature calibration tower by gaaZolee, December 24, 2017 Uses Layer 0.20 mm infill: 15 %
I'm testing a stubborn new spool of PLA. Temp range of test 225 °C to 180 °C. That model above came with recommended `if`statements. I verified that with 100 % thickness on first layer, I'm exactly hitting all the Z targets at exactly the correct place for each temperature story on the tower.
I'm using the Slic3r "Printer Settings" tab - to place my `if` statements in place at "Before Layer Change G-Code".
It's not clear to me on the format required for a G-Code `{if}` statement. I've tried...
```
{if layer_z == 7.8}M104 S225{endif}; // fail, this converts to: M104 S225 {endif}
{if layer_z==1.6}M104 S225 // fail, this converts to: M104 S225
{if [layer_z]==1.6} M104 S225 // fails, this converts to: (null)
{if [layer_num]==8} M104 S225 // fails, this converts to: (null)
{if layer_num==8} M104 S225 // fails, this converts to: M104 S225
```
In detail what I'm seeing is the if statements from all ten towers prints as *change temp to 225, 220, 215, 210... down to 180 (last entry)* and 180 °C is where ALL my prints get printed at. Total Fail.
I'm just not seeing anything in the Gcode output from Slic3r that remotely looks like an `if` statement. Any ideas here? I've seen this reference, on advanced conditional G-Code but I'm just not understanding what to do here.
I do see from Slic3r Custom G-Code Placeholder Reference, that I'm using the correct terms. *\[layer\_z\] - Z height of the active layer*, and *\[layer\_num\] - Integer number of the active layer*. It's not clear if their use in "Before Layer Change G-Code" require the square brackets or not.
Any clues on how to get an if statement into G-Code via Slic3r for a temperature tower print?
# Answer
> 1 votes
So I think I figured this one out. I was looking at it a bit wrong. And here's my code:
```
; Note to self: layer_z = [layer_z]
; T tower floor 1
{if [layer_z]==1.6} M104 S225 T0
; T tower floor 2
{if [layer_z]==11.6} M104 S220 T0
; T tower floor 3
{if [layer_z]==21.6} M104 S215 T0
; T tower floor 4
{if [layer_z]==31.6} M104 S210 T0
; T tower floor 5
{if [layer_z]==41.6} M104 S205 T0
; T tower floor 6
{if [layer_z]==51.6} M104 S200 T0
; T tower floor 7
{if [layer_z]==61.6} M104 S195 T0
; T tower floor 8
{if [layer_z]==71.6} M104 S190 T0
; T tower floor 9
{if [layer_z]==81.6} M104 S185 T0
; T tower floor 10
{if [layer_z]==91.6} M104 S180 T0
```
The key to understanding what is going on is the `; Note to self: layer_z = [layer_z]` line. The whole block of code above gets repeated for every layer of the print in the G-code, but it gets evaluated. And when I search for "layer z =" and scan thru the code.. I eventually see this...
```
; Note to self: layer_z = 1.6
; T tower floor 1
M104 S225 T0 <---- Yowza. Nice.
; T tower floor 2
; T tower floor 3
; T tower floor 4
; T tower floor 5
; T tower floor 6
; T tower floor 7
; T tower floor 8
; T tower floor 9
; T tower floor 10
```
and then again:
```
; Note to self: layer_z = 11.6
; T tower floor 1
; T tower floor 2
M104 S220 T0 <---- Yes!
; T tower floor 3
...
```
All good. You have to have {} and \[\] within the code statements...
Addendum: So it turns out things are not quite perfect. I'm noticing at the upper floors, where things should be cooler, the temperature isn't changing. Its locked at 215C. I see this in the code:
```
; Note to self: layer_z = 31.5999999999999 <--- not sure how that happened.
; T tower floor 1
; T tower floor 2
; T tower floor 3
; T tower floor 4
; T tower floor 5
; T tower floor 6
; T tower floor 7
; T tower floor 8
; T tower floor 9
; T tower floor 10
```
`31.6` would have triggered a temperature change. `31.5999999999999` won't do it. I need to modify the `{if... == }` to a complex test between two values... Just wanted to share that observation here.
I do see from this reference that
> Expressions may be chained for an implicit AND:
>
> `{if [layer_num] == 10}{if [temperature_1] != 210}M104 S210`
And this seems to fix it:
```
; Note to self: layer_z = [layer_z]
; T tower floor 1
{if [layer_z]<=1.65}{if [layer_z]>1.55} M104 S225 T0
; T tower floor 2
{if [layer_z]<=11.65}{if [layer_z]>11.55} M104 S220 T0
; T tower floor 3
{if [layer_z]<=21.65}{if [layer_z]>21.55} M104 S215 T0
; T tower floor 4
{if [layer_z]<=31.65}{if [layer_z]>31.55} M104 S210 T0
; T tower floor 5
{if [layer_z]<=41.65}{if [layer_z]>41.55} M104 S205 T0
; T tower floor 6
{if [layer_z]<=51.65}{if [layer_z]>51.55} M104 S200 T0
; T tower floor 7
{if [layer_z]<=61.65}{if [layer_z]>61.55} M104 S195 T0
; T tower floor 8
{if [layer_z]<=71.65}{if [layer_z]>71.55} M104 S190 T0
; T tower floor 9
{if [layer_z]<=81.65}{if [layer_z]>81.55} M104 S185 T0
; T tower floor 10
{if [layer_z]<=91.65}{if [layer_z]>91.55} M104 S180 T0
```
---
Tags: g-code, calibration, slic3r
---
|
thread-13432
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13432
|
Is a heated bed an essential component for printing (difference between Creality Ender 3 or Anycubic Mega Zero)?
|
2020-04-16T19:42:00.073
|
# Question
Title: Is a heated bed an essential component for printing (difference between Creality Ender 3 or Anycubic Mega Zero)?
I have two options - to buy either the Ender 3 or the Mega Zero. I'm heading towards Ender 3 because the Mega Zero doesn't have a heated bed.
My question is, how is a printer without a heated bed (the Mega Zero) a better option than one with a heated bed (the Ender 3)?
Why would I even consider buying a printer without a heated bed when the Ender 3 can do the same things **and** has a heated bed? I want be able to print not only PLA but other materials as well. Doesn't the Mega Zero limit you to using only PLA?
# Answer
Lack of a heated bed does not necessarily limit you to using PLA. I would say (among those I've used) the material that's least sensitive to whether you have a heated bed is probably TPU. Depending on your model, it can even be hard to print PLA without a heated bed, unless perhaps you're willing to use a brim or raft. Printing ABS or ASA without a heated bed is almost certainly out of the question, and PETG *might* be possible, but I'd expect it to be difficult.
Mechanically, the Anycubic Mega Zero looks very similar to the Ender 3. The claimed bed size on the Mega Zero is slightly smaller (220 mm vs 235 mm) but they might just be counting the usable part.
The only possible objective advantage to the Mega Zero I could find is the double gear extruder, which may help with printing faster or flexible filaments.
Presumably you could add a heating element to the bed if you want.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I used to print PLA with my heated bed turned off, since it was deforming when heated.
It works perfectly fine, only detaching the print was terribly difficult.
I would not buy a printer without it, because even a weak bed reaching only 50°C gives you many more possibilities.
I mean, you could use it to keep your coffee warm while you work at the computer, or to warm up chemical solutions to make them react faster. You can also use the bed to shake the solution!
Go for a heated bed.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, heated-bed
---
|
thread-13433
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13433
|
I have bad print quality, what should i do?
|
2020-04-16T21:15:58.057
|
# Question
Title: I have bad print quality, what should i do?
So I have an issue, every time I try to print anything it basically looks like a comb. All around the model there are just holes and holes everywhere. I dont know what to do about it. I don't have any infill, but honestly, this is just all stacked ontop of itself, so it shouldnt need to be filled in.
Please help me figure out how to make sure that the layers are actually layers, not just sticks standing up into the air.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The images that you show are typical for heavy under extruded prints. The "comb like structure" is caused by extrusion of too little filament which balls up to a certain point in time that it sticks to something previously printed, then balls up again, etc...
Under extrusion can be caused by many things, but this much is usually caused by an incorrect filament diameter set in your slicer. But, it can also be caused by a mechanical (or electronic) defect like a slipping extruder caused by a loose gear or missing steps.
I'm operating 2.85 mm and 1.75 mm 3D printing machines (both have pros an cons) and occasionally I've experienced exactly the same results (you call it a "comb" like print). E.g. the slicer Cura (Ultimaker software product) is known/used to be known to reset the filament diameter to the default of 2.85 mm after an upgrade of the software, which is the filament diameter used by Ultimaker printers.
---
*If you add more details to your question, we can tailor the answer to your specific issue, but it certainly is under extrusion.*
---
Tags: print-quality
---
|
thread-3234
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3234
|
Troubleshooting filament slip on MakerBot 5
|
2016-12-20T15:28:07.903
|
# Question
Title: Troubleshooting filament slip on MakerBot 5
I run a high school 3D printer lab and we have several 5th generation MakerBot printers. On one of them I have considerable trouble with "thin" prints and filament slip warnings.
So far I've tried changing extruders and using different filament rolls with no luck. But, if I move the job and the extruder to a different printer it works.
I'd appreciate suggestions for how to sort this out. I would have expected the slipping problems to follow the extruder.
# Answer
Oh interesting. By slips, I take it you mean that the raw filament slips, not the print slips.
This will happen for a few reasons. First the tooth gear that grabs the plastic is either:
* Worn out
* Out of place
* Not the correct distance from the guide wheel.
This is all part of the mechanism that the Smart Extruder attaches TO. Not the Smart Extruder itself. You might be able to fix this yourself, worst case you will need a replacement assembly from MakerBot. *I would look into online auction sites for the part*
Another option is to try thicker filament. Which you might be able to custom order. So instead of 1.5, maybe get 1.8. I am not sure where you can buy off sizes.
From there this machine might just be getting jammed. It happens to some machines. This again points to the base of the X axis assembly.
Last which I would say is not likely as you have tried multiple extruders, you might have the nozzle becoming clogged. I often pop open my extruders *voids warranty* and clean them out. Also micro hand drills are a good option here.
> 5 votes
# Answer
*I posted an edit to the top answer in hopes that it will get changed for anyone looking at this post in the future but in case it gets rejected here is the actual issue and fix.*
**If you just want the solution skip down to the bolded text.**
I came across this post while browsing for resources to document my own experiences with "filament slip" in Makerbots and every suggested solution was wrong and potentially malicious to the machine. I'm an expert in the field and have taken apart and fixed dozens of machines.
First a bit about the anatomy of the extruder so you can understand better. The way that the toolhead detects slips is with an encoder wheel placed above the actual drive mechanism, not attached to it or the idler whatsoever. It's also not even tensioned against the filament at all. The filament is "held" in place with an injection molded piece of plastic that attaches to the rest of the extruder body just by the pin connectors on the internal PCB and a small positioning groove on both sides of the case.
The encoder wheel and its sensor are very unlikely to wear but what happens to every older head is that either the casing or the injection molded part that holds the filament wears and the encoder wheel no longer presses firmly against the filament which causes the filament to move without turning the encoder. The encoder then not moving while the drive gear is, reads a filament slip and sends an error message even though nothing is mechanically or functionally wrong. The wear is also not clearly visible even on close inspection. This problem seems to arise in every Smart Extruder+ once it reaches 150-200 printing hours.
**Actual Fix** As a temporary fix you can jam a piece of foam inside the right side of the extruder to push the poorly secured injection molded part against the encoder wheel. This will make the filament slip error much less frequent but won't completely solve the issue. I'm working on a 3D printed insert that should hold the part more securely, at least until the printed part wears after an additional 100 or so printing hours. I'm also working on a 3D printed replacement for the extruder body and some of the injection molded interior parts. It aims to be a drop in replacement which should greatly improve both reliability and functionality. If I can remember once I'm finished I'll come back and post a link here.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Okay, the original Smart Extruder has **many** issues. I've clocked about 60 hours on a new Replicator+ w/ Smart Extruder+ and haven't encountered any of the issues I heard about with the original extruder. So, I might begin by re-recommending what MakerBot Industries has *recommended* to their customers which is *upgrade your Smart Extruder to the new Smart Extruder+*.
***However***, the extruder may not be completely at fault. A picture says a thousand words, so if you have one, please add one. Based on your description of the part's layers "thinning out", double check your extrusion settings in MakerBot Desktop.
Another potential issue is too much tension on the filament as it is being fed into the extruder. Here are **some things that can lead to too much tension**:
* Filament wound around spool/spool holder
* Filament kinked
* Too much friction between the spool and spool holder
* Too much friction between the filament and the filament guide (the plastic tube)
Finally, and my reason for bringing up the Smart Extruder, is that your extruder may be clogged or "gumming up". In the past, if there was too much tension on the filament and the drive gear was not adjusted correctly, the drive gear would grind the filament. This would lead to small deposits of filament gumming up the drive gear, eventually leading to the filament slipping. Once the filament began slipping, it would slowly no longer extrude and heat up further up the extruder assembly. This inevitably leads to the extruder becoming clogged. In short:
> {Too much filament tension} + {Too tight drive gear} = Gumming
>
> {Too much gumming} + Time = Slipping/"Thinning"
>
> {Too much slipping} + time + heat = Clogging
> 3 votes
# Answer
You could also try printing at a higher temperature. Slips can happen when the filament is not melting and thus not pushing through the extruder consistently. E.g. I had a spool of PLA filament that would slip constantly at 190°C. I tried 220°C and then it printed smoothly after that.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I had the same issue, but my solution was a little different. Following along with what the others posted about the wheel, I had a jam inside the extruder around that wheel. I missed it the first time I tore it open so no matter how many times I tried the screwdriver trick it didn't work for me.
I figured I'd post so if anyone is coming along trying to find the solution, they can see that it might be a jam on the filament wheel and not just to check the nozzle area.
> 2 votes
# Answer
We had a similar issue with our Makerbot printer here in the CARIS lab. We would have slip, after slip and tried oiling, hand feeding, and roughing up the filament none of it worked. But we found an answer!!!
With the smart extruder, it's as simple as inserting a flathead screwdriver between the filament wheel and the housing, and prying the wheel towards the pin-side of the print head. Solved all our problems! Seriously, not a slip since and perfect prints.
I've a short solution video for YouTube, Fixing filament slip on your 3D printer.
Check out the makerbot trouble shooting page for reference: MakerBot Support \> Troubleshooting \> MakerBot Replicator \> Error Codes ERROR 81
> 1 votes
# Answer
So I had this issue for months, was about to either give up and call my printer a paper weight, but I figured it out. And it doesn't cost anything.
I literally reprinted the same hose adapter 6 times (every time the filament slipped about 20 times and it was unusable). I changed 4 settings and since then I've printed the same print twice in a row without a single filament slip.
In "Device Settings" in Makerbot application: Extruder Temp: 220 °C Travel Speed (I think this is what is actually causing the slip): 115 mm/s
Then in the "Infill" section: Infill Density: 30 %
Lastly in "Model Properties": Shell Starting Point: 220 °C
Please let me know if this works for you as well.
(I should point out I just have the regular smart extruder, and I was planning on dumping the $350 for the top of the line model)
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament, makerbot, troubleshooting
---
|
thread-13447
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13447
|
Monoprice select mini underextrusion?
|
2020-04-17T23:49:37.177
|
# Question
Title: Monoprice select mini underextrusion?
Can someone please review the picture and tell me things to try to fix, the threads are full of little gaps. The layers that are solid, below the threads have a tiny bit of space between them. Is it underextrusion, or a clog? The bottom layer seems good. Also I have taken a picture of grooves on the filament after the extruder. Is the the groove from the extruder normal?
# Answer
The grooves (notches, more accurately) are acceptable and indicate that your hobbed gear has a good grip on the filament.
Many factors will cause your probably-correct diagnosis of under-extrusion. If you are confident that your extrusion settings are correct, you could have this problem from under-temperature on the nozzle.
One method to assess this is to increase the nozzle temperature by five degrees C and examine a test print. If the gaps are reduced but do not disappear, consider an additional step or two of five degrees.
If you are so inclined, locate one of the many temperature tower models and modify them accordingly for your printer. This will give you a good range of temperatures for best results.
Also note that different filaments will have different temperatures and the temperatures will vary between colors from the same manufacturer and between different manufacturers.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: extrusion, fdm, underextrusion, monoprice-select-mini
---
|
thread-10881
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10881
|
Water-cooling stepper motor with aluminum block
|
2019-08-27T18:01:24.013
|
# Question
Title: Water-cooling stepper motor with aluminum block
On a budget, I'm water-cooling a 3D printer. I'm using a 5 V aquarium pump (\\$3). Originally I tried to only use about as much water in a can of chickpeas but then found out i needed a lot more. I have a deliberate need to water cool stepper motors in the first printer, so that I can print with a high temperature filament like PEI (the operating temp of a stepper is maxed at about 53 degrees celsius; PEI requires an enclosure temperature of 80 °C), but on another printer I'm having some other issues with the motors that I think could be solved by better heat dissipation.
What I am getting to is a device like this:
It is the perfect size for a stepper motor. My plan is to zip-tie one of these to each stepper motor and water cool it in a single path across my printer, including the hot end.
Can anyone think of a reason why this wouldn't work? i just haven't heard of anyone doing anything like this, but it makes sense to me as a chemistry minor. The specific heat of water is way higher than almost anything else. And it is way less noisy than fans. And it works inside an enclosure, while fans might not
Should I ziptie the aluminum block to the back part of the stepper where the metal is, or to one of the darker black sides?
Would I be able to 3D print a cooling block like this instead of paying for it? See also this relevant question on thermal conductivity of various 3D printing filaments. It should probably be metal to transfer heat better?
# Answer
I just did this lol and checked online to see if anyone else did it too. It works really nice.
I used thermal paste and zipties to secure each block to the stepper motor. Dont use thermal tape its not as effective as paste.
I had to do this operations since my motors were overheating due to the enclosure design.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Cooling any single face of the motor is fine. The motor case conducts heat *very* well. Many 3d printers effectively cool the motors merely by having the output drive face of the motor bolted to a metal bracket which is bolted to the aluminum extrusion frame. That's it. That contact alone cools the motor, which is shown by how the motors overheat when people install vibration dampers, which puts rubber between the motor and the extrusion.
The only thing I would worry about is the surface area inside this particular style of block, and ensuring that you use an all-aluminum radiator since the block is aluminum.
There is another type of cheap 40x40 aluminum block with the nipples on the face instead of on the edge. That style has fins and a lot of surface area inside. This style with the nipples on the edge has a big S channel inside and not much surface area. It may still be more than enough. I'm just saying it's a significant difference and it might make a difference. If you find you're not cooling enough, all you may need to do is switch to that other style of block, not try to install 3 blocks per motor or any other exotic nonsense.
But no way do you have to worry about coooling more than one face of the motor, nor does it matter rwhich face it is, especially not with active water cooling like this, as long as the block is actually making good thermal contact with the motor (thermal tape, or thermal epoxy, or thermal pad & zip ties)
> 6 votes
# Answer
Your solution will not cool all sides effectively. Firstly don't use zip ties; get thermal tape.
(https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Interface-Products-Heat-Sink/dp/B00QSHPH8E/
Secondly, the heat will need to travel around the outside of the motor to get from the side that doesn't have the water block. Its expensive but you could use Pyrolytic Graphite Sheets to wrap around the outside of the motor, to get the heat to the water block faster.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: cooling
---
|
thread-13450
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13450
|
Best/Simplest/Easiest way to secure a lid
|
2020-04-18T19:42:46.970
|
# Question
Title: Best/Simplest/Easiest way to secure a lid
This is a part I designed, a kind of a frame: Into the frame I want to be able to place a flat object of variable (but uniform) thickness - like paper, glass, sheet metal, etc. The inserted object should then be covered by some kind of a lid and secured. The lid should keep the inserted object pressed against the "ledge" you see in the frame. The object in the frame will be repeatedly replaced, so the lid will be repeatedly taken off and placed again. When placed, the lid needs to hold, not fall off randomly.
What would be the best/easiest/simplest way to secure the lid? Considering ease of printing, so ideally no supports, as little additional separate parts as possible (but adding a few is not a big problem), etc. The side of the frame you see in the picture can be modified, stuff can be added.
Considered:
* threaded inserts in the corners of the frame, screws through the lid. Screws are a little impractical. Threaded inserts for screws big enough to be practical when handled repeatedly take up a lot of space both in area and depth
* rubber bands stretched from one side across the lid to the other side. Rubber bands seem a little weak to hold the lid securely, but I guess it could be done.
What methods would you choose?
# Answer
Don't know how big your parts are, but if repeated use is a concern and you need pressure that screws can deliver, consider screwing on some toggle clamps if you have the real estate.
You could also make a 3d printed version of one that's sized to your needs. There are some models available.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design
---
|
thread-12027
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12027
|
Partial underextrusion in walls
|
2020-02-17T22:00:07.827
|
# Question
Title: Partial underextrusion in walls
I'm facing weird "pillars" of underextrusion on outer walls of my XYZ test cube.
On the pictures below I\`ve printed PLA test cubes with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm height and 210/50 °C hotends/bed temperature.
Gaps are appearing in walls parallel to both X and Y sides. The pictured side is parallel to Y face.
I'm slicing with Cura, my printer is a homebuilt around Anycubic Kossel with Marlin 2.0 onboard.
What have I tried already:
1. Temperature from 190 to 210 °C
2. Retraction from none to 6 mm 60 mm/sec
3. Tuning down Jerk in Marlin from \[10,10,0.3\] to \[5,5,0.3\]
4. Tuning down acceleration from 3000 to 1000
5. Tuning print speed from 60 to 30 mm/sec 6. Checking belts, nozzle and extruder.
Now I just ran out of ideas. Delta is calibrated by `G33` autotune. Mechanics looks just fine. What am I missing?
**UPD1**: tried removing combing - it did not help. But I noticed that my printer accelerates strangely at this parts
**UPD2**: could it be stuttering? I have 320 segments per second with block buffer size of 8 bytes(?)
**UPD3**: lowering segments count to 120 and raising block size to 32
# Answer
Well, I could not track the problem and it lasted till two major updates:
1. I have changed rods for ones with proper lenght
2. I have reset all Cura settings to default
> 0 votes
# Answer
Localized underextrusion usually means you're oozing material somewhere it wasn't supposed to go. Since you have Marlin 2.0, linear advance might help solve that, and in general right retraction amount is important and turning off combing may be needed (combing over infill allows material to ooze).
Also there are reported bugs in Marlin 2.0 such as https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/15473 that might be related, though I would think you'd not be using junction deviation since it's supposedly incompatible with deltas.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: delta, kossel, underextrusion, skr-v1.3
---
|
thread-13465
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13465
|
Levelling issues
|
2020-04-20T02:13:09.450
|
# Question
Title: Levelling issues
I just got a Dremel 3D20. I unpacked the machine, and raised the bills platform as documented to setup the spool. Then I tried to level the surface and was able to adjust the left and right knobs but not the rear -- the knob came off completely, but the platform was not lowered. It was firmly pushing against the extruder.
I tried to print an object anyway and the rest part of the object was not forming properly as expected.
I cancelled the job. A few hours later, I tried leveling again. This time around the front knobs also started having the same problem.
I went to the jog mode in the settings screen, and lowered the platform, but it returns to where it was if I try leveling again or print another object.
Printing another object this time around is even worse because the platform completely fails to lower.
There's not enough documentation on Dremel's website.
Does anyone know what's going on?
# Answer
Something similar happened to me during the firsts weeks of 3D printing.
I would recommend you to look for real case scenario leveling steps. Leveling is not that simple and sometimes user manuals don't even mention the many issues you may encounter.
Youtube is a great source of other user's experiences:
Just keep trying until you make it. Some people give up.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: extruder, heated-bed
---
|
thread-13469
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13469
|
When do I need to get a BLTouch upgrade?
|
2020-04-20T04:56:51.180
|
# Question
Title: When do I need to get a BLTouch upgrade?
I've found many Youtube videos of makers upgrading to BLTouch sensor.
I have a Creality CR-10S Pro, so far bed leveling hasn't been an issue (after some days of trial and error).
My question is what are the problems/issues users need to face in order to need (or justify) an upgrade?
# Answer
A touch or an inductive/capacitive sensor is useful when you cannot get prints to stick to the build surface because of a skew bed platform/heated plate or if the plate has a bend, large concave or convex area.
Even with such a sensor, you need to provide a bed that is as level (trammed) as you can get. Automatic Bed Levelling (ABL) is not magic, it is just a tool that can help out if you have a problematic bed surface. But, recent versions of Marlin have "manual bed levelling"; i.e. you can map the surface using your printer without a sensor and store that geometry in memory.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I don't know your printer but I don't have BLtouch, and I have to set the height every time because the bed expands with heat.
If you print at variable bed temperature (PLA, ABS, PETg, nylon require different values) then that sensor helps a lot.
BL touch can also speed up bed calibration: you scan the bed, see the values to be corrected, adjust the bed without having to guess (given the thread pitch and required correction).
Also, if you print only in the center it's easy but if you print fully using the size of the bed, I doubt you can get very flat bed. The BLtouch helps for that too.
Also, there are clones like 3D touch which were tested and work equally well. Depending on your budget, they may be an interesting alternative.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-cr-10, bltouch
---
|
thread-13472
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13472
|
What's the purpose of the "outlines" around prints?
|
2020-04-20T11:32:15.947
|
# Question
Title: What's the purpose of the "outlines" around prints?
* I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?
* Also, how would it affect the outline if the object to be printed extends to (very near) the very edge of the print area?
Update, I received a hint that an existing question has the answer; that link was not really to my satisfaction -- but it did link to another one that did: What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?
# Answer
> I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?
The (equidistant) lines at distance from the print object is called the "skirt", the skirt is an option found under the "Build Plate Adhesion" options in your slicer. The primary function of the skirt is to get the flow going, but there are more benefits you can get from the skirt:
* You can find out whether the bed is correctly levelled, or if the bed has concave or convex areas (the skirt should be a line, I prefer at least 2 lines, of consistent thickness, if not, this may hint to incorrect levelling;
* You can find out if there is enough or a sufficient amount of adhesive (e.g. glue stick, hair spray, specific print adhesion sprays like 3DLAC or DimaFix, etc), if not the bed might be greasy or lacking the adhesion product;
* You can configure the skirt height to use the skirt as a shield for draft or ooze and distance to product);
> Also, how would it affect the outline if the object to be printed extends to (very near) the very edge of the print area?
Do note that a skirt limits the useable build area by the distance and width of the skirt.
---
*Basically this has been answered (see this answer and this answer) in a different question ("Random lines are being printed?"), but it might be beneficial to answer this question rather than closing this for a dupe. This question is focussed on the skirt, the equidistant lines around the print object, while the other question focuses on the priming line.*
---
> 15 votes
# Answer
My understand is that's is basically a purging extrusion, so that you get flow through the extruder before you start printing the object, as filament that's been inside the hotend during warm-up might have been "overcooked" by spending too much time in the hotend at temperature. It also helps stabilise the PID loop controlling the extruder temperature by allowing the PID loop to stabilise the temperature of the hotend as it's got filament flowing through it compared to it being idle.
It also shows the user where it intends to start printing, which is a useful check if something went wrong with Gcode generation.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: bed
---
|
thread-13478
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13478
|
What can these horizontal lines be caused by?
|
2020-04-20T18:53:15.350
|
# Question
Title: What can these horizontal lines be caused by?
I have changed stock Anet A8 board (Anet v1.5) to new SKR 1.4 with TMC2209. Then I found out these lines on the walls, I don't know how to determine it. Previously this wasn't so visible, but now it bothers pretty much.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Looks like an over/under extrusion. This can be fixed by:
* decreasing/increasing your extrusion multiplier (flow)
* lowering your print temperature
* checking the diameter of your filament. Do you use the correct diameter?
---
Tags: print-quality, anet-a8
---
|
thread-13451
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13451
|
Ender 3 underextrusion
|
2020-04-19T00:19:47.527
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 underextrusion
I am a beginner in 3D printing and recently bought an Ender 3. With the filament included in the package, my first print ever was flawless. However, after the first print, I tried printing with ABS, which did not work out, so changed to PLA, and ever since then, all my prints were under extruded. I have tried everything. I bought a new nozzle to make sure it wasn't clogged, I cut the last 20 mm of the PTFE tube, I performed cold pulls, I leveled my bed before every print, made the line width in the profile 0.48 mm instead of 0.4 mm, increased the flow, tried printing with every temperature between 185-210 °C, looked at different Ender 3 suggested profiles on the internet, and more. I also made sure there was nothing wrong with the extruder. Attached are pictures of my most recent prints. Anyone who can tell me what I am doing wrong???
# Answer
The helical exterior is an indicator of a filament diameter mismatch or volumetric mode enabled for linear commands
From ref:
> Then you probably enabled volumetric extrusion by accident.
>
> On LCD go to
>
> * Control
> * Filament
> * Disable
> * Save EEPROM
> * Revert estep cal if applicable.
>
> What is it? M200
>
> Its a feature of Marlin firmware which interprets E moves as mm<sup>3</sup> instead of linear mm. It is poorly described in the menu, and tends to be enabled by accident.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, underextrusion
---
|
thread-13426
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13426
|
How to check if filament sensor is ok?
|
2020-04-15T22:04:58.850
|
# Question
Title: How to check if filament sensor is ok?
The filament sensor of my i3 MK3 stopped working. In the support menu, it just says `IR: N/A`. This is the same output as if I disconnect the filament sensor.
My PCB says `rev 0.2e` and this is what I see:
In the Prusa Shop, I found a laser sensor, which has 4 pins, so that's probably what I have.
I have already checked the voltage coming from the Einsy cable. It's 5.02 V, which is probably ok. The remaining two pins seem to be SCL and SDA, so it's likely a I²C bus.
I have Arduinos, ESP8266 and ESP32 around. Is there a test routine that I could run on the filament sensor, other than Prusa's `N/A` display?
# Answer
You could try out this Arduino sketch and see if the Arduino can find the sensor on the bus, but I'm fairly certain that the chip has developed a fault and stopped responding to I²C commands, hence the error, or it's giving a value that's outside the limits set in the firmware.
I'd also recommend getting in touch with Prusa Research, they have very good support and can tell you what part you need for your machine.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, filament, part-testing
---
|
thread-13477
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13477
|
Upgrade Ender 3 with Diamond Hotend
|
2020-04-20T18:46:19.953
|
# Question
Title: Upgrade Ender 3 with Diamond Hotend
As I want to print with multiple colors I plan to upgrade my Ender 3 with the diamond hotend.
So far I found all information I need, except what power supply I need for my RUMBA board.
Can I use the default Ender 3 power supply or do I need an additional power supply or wires?
Parts I am going to order:
* 1x Lite6 Heatsink
* 3x Diamond Universal mount
* 1x 12 V 40 W 6 mm x 20 mm Cartridge Heater Reprap For 3D Printer
* 1x Thermistor 100K 1 % NTC Temperature Sensor Line for 3D Printer
* 1x Fan 50x50x15 mm 12 V 125 mA
* 1x Diamond Hotend Insulator
* 1x Nema17 stepper motor 48 mm 1.8° 42BYGHW804 1.2 A 5.5 kg•cm
* 3x MK8/9 Dual Extruder Feed Device Part For 3D Printer 1.75 mm Filament
* 3x Bowden tube 1 m with fitting 4/2 mm (for 1.75 mm filament)
* 1x RUMBA 3D printer controller board
* 6x StepStick DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver
# Answer
> 0 votes
The RUMBA boards run up to 36 V, so reusing the (24 V) power supply from your printer should be fine. As the 2 extra steppers do not take much extra power (note you are ordering only 1!), your supply should be sufficient. Note that a 12 V heater cartridge is not going to work on a 24 V board (you'll get a massive overshoot and probably over-temperature warnings and printer shutdowns).
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, power-supply, diamond-hotend
---
|
thread-13403
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13403
|
Ender 3 Pro Extruder Stepper Skipping with a Chunk sound
|
2020-04-13T04:35:47.093
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro Extruder Stepper Skipping with a Chunk sound
I have a relatively new Ender 3 Pro, stock except for adding a tempered glass bed. I've fed about 3 kg of PLA filament so far, all Solutech brand. Near the end of the last reel, I started hearing a chunk noise. It varies in rate, between several/minute to going 10-15 between chunks. This has continued into a brand new, just unsealed reel so I don't think it's associated with the filament.
I was able to finally discover that the sound is coming from the extruder stepper area and was able to see that when this happens, the filament drive wheel snaps back maybe 30-40 degrees. (This happens in the middle of printing a line, not when the filament retracts between lines.) I'm assuming that the stepper motor is slipping. There is no sign of gaps in the printed model nor is the filament on the reel binding that I can see.
I'm guessing maybe that the filament is being fed faster than the hot end can accept it, causing back pressure.
I'm using Cura 4.4.0 as my slicer the whole time and while I have changed some settings, everything associated with speed, feed rate, hot end temperature and such are all stock. I did not notice this happening until recently.
Has anyone seen this happen before? Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
# Answer
UPDATE 3-May-2020: I have now confirmed that the problem was the extruder. Specifically, the input port which was causing the filament to bind. The front of the input port is a metal ring but the back is just plastic and and has worn from the PLA filament, as seen in this photo: After some delay (see my other question here) I have installed the new, all-metal extruder (original stepper), the clacking is gone as well as the significant under-extrusion. (I also replaced the Bowden tube and print bed springs but I don't believe these were the problem).
Having seen what a few km of PLA did, I highly recommend upgrading the extruder.
Side point: immediately after the replacement, I started getting corners lifting off the bed which I hadn't seen before. I realized that the new drive gear was slightly smaller than the old so I checked the extruder calibration and it was about 10% low. I adjusted the extruder steps/mm from 93 to 99 to correct for this.
---
Original:
It appears the problem was the filament binding in the entry to the extruder assembly. I did start seeing signs of under extrudement such as the outer layer of a rectangular object separating of the rest of the body. Later, the problem became worse, with a lot of clanking, to the point that prints became quite fragile.
I have ordered a all-metal extruder assembly and will update as I get new results.
By the way, I'm really not sure why it's binding but running a strip of filament through the entrance hole, it sure seem to be binding. But in trying to disassemble the extruder and starting by removing the filament, I managed to get molten filament in the bowden tube. Without thinking about it, I pulled the blob all the way into the fitting for the extruder, plugging it so much that I cannot get the fitting off nor push it back into the tube. Anyway, I'm taking the opportunity to upgrade the extruder, tube and springs.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: extruder, creality-ender-3, stepper
---
|
thread-13475
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13475
|
Any defacto standards for controlling new tooling options on generic 3D printers (firmware control and signaling)?
|
2020-04-20T15:42:31.863
|
# Question
Title: Any defacto standards for controlling new tooling options on generic 3D printers (firmware control and signaling)?
Are there any defacto standards for interfacing between common 3D printers and custom extruders or other tooling? I was thinking how it would be good to have switchable nozzle widths mounted on the same heat block and switched between using a solenoid so you could have say a 0.25 mm for surface layer and details, then swap to 0.6 mm for the infill.
What would be the path of least resistance so it could be accessed in generic firmware?
The design I was thinking would be similar to a generic aluminium heat block with two nozzles screwed in side by side with there inputs meeting in an inverted Y junction with its center drilled out and replaced by a rod with appropriate channeling to divert the already molten plastic between nozzles. Turning the rod would be done from a solenoid mounted somewhere behind the heat-break.with a clamping mechanism.
# Answer
## Generally: nozzles are not changed, the whole tool head is
While "tool change" is easy to implement in a G-code and could be easily adapted in the firmware, there are several practical issues to hot-swapping nozzles without swapping the whole hotend assembly:
* The hotend is a fluid-dynamic system that needs to be sealed to operate under pressure and temperature.
* The seal of the nozzle-heatbreak system is in most systems a metal-on-metal pressure seal
* Rubber seals are not an option in a system that runs over 180°C
* Moving metal seals are very hard to make and run smoothly.
# Your idea: especially **No**
There is literally no way to design a turning Y-switch that fits the following bills:
* sealed
* filament path ~2 mm
* screw-in diameter for heatbreak and nozzles M6
* creates enough free space between the lower outlets to mount 2 M6 nozzles with enough space to hold a wrench (=15mm diameter of centers)
* fit into the form factor of a conventional heater block
Your idea would need to be considerably larger, need a stronger heater element and creates an impossibly to clean area around the turning junction peg. Atop that, you would trade 1 area of possible leak (between heatbreak and nozzle) for 3 areas of possible leaks (nozzle-block and heatbreak block) and one area of guaranteed leak (the turning peg).
## How is it done then?!
Currently, there are the following ways to swap between different of nozzles mid-print that have been proven to work somewhat reliably:
1. fixed independent print heads with independent carriages.
2. fixed independent nozzles and heaters on one carriage.
3. swapping print heads on one carriage.
The first design is used for example in the Leapfrog Bolt, combined heads are for example the e3D Chimera, Cyclops and Kraken. e3D also designed on a reliable printhead - or rather tool - swapping system starting about 2018 and did release it to the public in late 2019.
Type 1 needs you to level the printheads well and to the same height in the easy case, but with the right setup of firmware, a Z-offset of the two tools can be included and compensated for - possibly even automatically. Type 3 does usually demands you to include very accurate offsets of the used tools or includes a way to measure the offset during operation, though I lack insight into how e3D solves it. Both setups can mitigate oozing of the unused nozzles out of the printing volume.
Type 2 not only demands hyper exact leveling, but it *also* is very prone to create some sort of oozing of the unused nozzle.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Tool change is M06 (then some value specifying what change to occur). You will need to implement the necessary changes in the firmware to support whatever electronics is required to perform the tool change (eg stepper driver | hobby servo, mosfets to run the solenoid). Once done, your slicer now has to do the work of knowing that there is a different nozzle size for different parts of the model. I know of no, slicer that can do that for different sizes on the same layer.
As for your idea: manual "tool changes" might be a better way to go, otherwise you would have to put the entire hot end on a carousel. Proposed hot end ejection mechanism The link (authored by me) describes a fast removal system for manually changing the hot end nozzles before prints. The electronics would need to be connected via pogo pins so that the installer doesn't need to connect any wires.
Further in this video (Printhead swapping), the author shows a magnetically attached and registered quick swap hot end, which can even swap the extruder.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: firmware, electronics, hardware
---
|
thread-8318
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8318
|
Sparkmaker SLA resin not curing
|
2019-02-21T16:11:00.997
|
# Question
Title: Sparkmaker SLA resin not curing
My model layers are printing much as I expect but the parts when removed from the plate are very soft and flexible and fail to harden any further in sunlight or UV lamplight. A tall or slender part will bend and distort under its own weight while printing. I am using LCD-T resin, I have increased time and reduced thicknesses and am now using 0.04 mm layers at 20 s and 255 brightness with no improvement. Can anyone suggest what I need to change?
# Answer
> 2 votes
It might be the case that the resin separated into layers in the tray. Try mixing the resin well in its container.
I have also heard it can help to filter the resin prior to mixing.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Thank you folks. The issue was bad/old resin and left in the tank too long. Replacing all my stocks with fresh and following rigorous stirring and decanting I now have resin curing well during the print. Sorry to have taken so long to get back to it.
---
Tags: sla, resin
---
|
thread-13304
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13304
|
I can set the voltage and current of the TMC2130 driver manually. But, in which cases some of the components could burn up?
|
2020-04-02T11:54:15.890
|
# Question
Title: I can set the voltage and current of the TMC2130 driver manually. But, in which cases some of the components could burn up?
I need to know if something will burn up beforehand I plug all the circuits:
* Ramps 1.6+
* Arduino Mega 2560
* PSU 12 V, 15 A
* 2 TMC2130 V3.0 Stepper motor driver
* 2 Stepper motors 17hs3401
## Driver Potentiometer
The driver has a potentiometer to change the voltage that is giving to the motors. Range of Vref values:
* Default: 1 V (±0.2)
* MAX: 2.4 V
* MIN: 0 V
As one person answered me in another question, I would need 3.2 V to make the motor work well (2. Ω * 1.3 A = 3.2 V). As the driver just can offer 2 A I assume that the speed will be lower and the driver will be warmer because the motor will drain more current.
## Marlin Current Configuration
There is a file in the Marlin firmware (`Configuration_adv.h`) where I can set the current that the driver is going to give to the motors. I do this to calculate the current in the motor XCURRENT = 1300 mA x sqrt(2) = 1838.5 mA and set the value in the file
```
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(X)
#define X_CURRENT 1838.5 // (mA) RMS current. Multiply by 1.414 for peak current. Default 800
#define X_CURRENT_HOME X_CURRENT // (mA) RMS current for sensorless homing
#define X_MICROSTEPS 16 // 0..256
#define X_RSENSE 0.11
#define X_CHAIN_POS -1 // <=0 : Not chained. 1 : MCU MOSI connected. 2 : Next in chain, ...
#endif
```
## Possible problems
What I am going to do is to set the drivers potentiometer to the maximum and check what happens. And I will also set the current in the Marlin to 1838.5mA
As the drivers have less voltage to give to the motors, are my drivers going to burn because they will have to give more current for a long period of time? Or will the stepper motors burn because they won't get enough current or voltage?
I also found some other possible problems in this other answer
> If the current is too high, you lose the linearity of micro-stepping. If the highest current exceeds the maximum, then the highest current micro-stepping positions will collapse on each other.
>
> If you are within the specs of the motors, there are no motor-related problems caused by higher currents.
>
> But other problems can be caused by increasing the current. The current must be within the capacity of the motor drivers and their heat sink. If the drivers overheat, many will simply shut off, causing the motors to not move when they should, which will appear as misalignment on X, Y, or Y.
This other person also told me
> you set the power level for the TCM2130 to more than 50 % then it will overheat. However, it may only do so when running at low speed. I doubt it will overheat if running at a high speed
The TMC2130 drivers can tolerate a motor operating current 1.2 A (peak 2 A). I am setting the maximum to 1838.5 mA (that's Okay) and the motor RMS is 1.3 A (more than 1.2 A). Will these settings overheat the driver?
## Question
Will I have any of these problems with the configuration I have set above? Will the TMC2130 overheat?
## Update 22 April
My chip is the `TMC2130-LA`. Then, to calculate the `X_CURRENT` value:
```
Imax = 1.2 A # max current available in the controller
Irms = Imax / 1.41 = 0.851
X_CURRENT = 90% Irms = 0.851 * 0.9 = 0.766 = 766 mA # 90% for safety
```
# Answer
> 3 votes
> The driver has a potentiometer to change the voltage that is giving to the motors.
>
> \[...\]
>
> As one person answered me in another question, I would need 3.2 V to make the motor work well (2. Ω * 1.3 A = 3.2 V).
You are misunderstanding that answer and what the potentiometer does. The potentiometer does not control the voltage going to the motors. It makes no sense to compare this voltage to the rated voltage of the motor. The potentiometer controls the *current* going to the motor, with a potentiometer voltage of 0V corresponding to 0% of the driver's current, and a potentiometer voltage of 2.5V corresponding to 100%. The documentation of your driver is a bit unclear but it looks like the maximum peak current is 1A per phase or 0.7A RMS (per phase).
> There is a file in the Marlin firmware (Configuration\_adv.h) where I can set the current that the driver is going to give to the motors.
This only works if the driver is set to SPI mode, otherwise the setting is ignored. To enable SPI mode you need to remove the jumper resistor labeled "SPI" mode and make connections to the long pins sticking out the top of the driver. This configuration option *overrides* the current setting set by the potentiometer.
> What I am going to do is to set the drivers potentiometer to the maximum and check what happens. And I will also set the current in the Marlin to 1838.5mA
That's not such a good idea. It would be wiser to set the potentiometer relatively low, and increase it just enough so that the motors do not skip steps.
> As the drivers have less voltage to give to the motors, are my drivers going to burn because they will have to give more current for a long period of time?
No, because the drivers do not have "less voltage to give to the motors". They don't work that way. They are constant current drivers.
> Or will the stepper motors burn because they won't get enough current or voltage?
No. The only thing that could cause the motors to burn is (far) too much current or voltage. This will never happen because your drivers will burn up before the motors ever would.
Keep in mind that in the question you linked to, one answer is more detailed than you can reasonably understand with your level of electronics knowledge, and the other answer is completely wrong.
**Summary**
* The current setting in configuration\_adv.h is irrelevant unless you have enabled SPI (but I doubt that you have)
* Do not start out with the potentiometer set to maximum
* Everything will be fine. The motor can handle more current than the driver can ever deliver. The driver you have is configured so that it can never exceed its rated current.
**Regarding your update**
Yes, if you are using SPI current control then the potentiometer is ignored.
The TMC2130 can handle 1.2A RMS per coil, though the datasheet notes that more than 1A RMS per coil requires special attention to heat dissipation (the small breakout PCB probably does not have great thermal properties).
Your calculation is overly conservative because it treats the 1.2A figure as peak current when RMS current is meant. You do not need to divide by $\sqrt{2}$ to convert to RMS because the figure already is RMS.
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Tags: marlin, stepper, stepper-driver, motor, ramps-1.6
---
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thread-13488
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13488
|
PLA support material suddenly a problem on Ender 5
|
2020-04-21T21:57:05.927
|
# Question
Title: PLA support material suddenly a problem on Ender 5
I have an Ender 5 that I meticulously calibrated with good success and was regularly getting great print quality with PLA. I stopped using it for a couple of months and when I resumed (without having changed anything), anything I print with support material is a real problem. The supports are really fused to where they touch the part and even tend to melt into the part. It ruins the print and isn't remotely removable without damage.
I've tried the other advice I've found here and from other sources: printing at cooler temps, increasing print cooling, checking bed leveling, etc. I was setting support in Cura, but switched to MeshMixer, which didn't improve the problem. Also, I had been using zig-zag pattern support, and lowered the density in settings, switched to tree supports...but nothing helps.
Before I resort to getting into granular settings to tweak how the supports are generated, am I missing something bigger, more general or more obvious? I find it strange that an idle printer started having such a specific problem.
# Answer
As the commenter suggested (thanks, 0scar!), the culprit appears to have been a Cura update and a change to the support material settings.
In my case, the defaults for Z distance and even the X/Y distance for support material, in addition to the density, was creating very effective supports, but very tricky to remove. I should add that the model was a character sculpture, which I've since learned creates much more complex support scenarios versus the more uniform models I've been accustomed to printing.
> 1 votes
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Tags: extrusion, support-structures, support-material, creality-ender-5
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|
thread-13491
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13491
|
Why did my extruder motor stopped working?
|
2020-04-22T04:19:16.583
|
# Question
Title: Why did my extruder motor stopped working?
Before it stopped working, the stepper motor worked very well and didn't show any problem. I experienced this after I fixed a filament problem. The filament got stuck soI retracted to pull the filament out of the heat nozzle. But when I finished this, the extruder didn't work anymore...
I restarted the system but it didn't work. All the motors work fine, even the extruder motor. The A4988 driver has the right voltage at 1.0 - 1.2 V. I have already replaced my RAMPS shield and AtMega board, but it still does not work! I changed the extruder motor to another axis port and it worked good. The voltage input is stable at 11.2 V
I can't figure out why the extruder motor is not working for the extruder port?
# Answer
I have found an answer. So dumb♂️♂️. It need to heat up nozzle before use extrude or retract command
> 1 votes
# Answer
When you pulled the filament out of the extruder you most likely induced a voltage back into the stepper driver which fried it.
> 0 votes
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Tags: extruder, motor
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thread-13499
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13499
|
Ender-3 Pro - PLA mid-layer warping (layer separation) - salvageable?
|
2020-04-23T13:50:10.240
|
# Question
Title: Ender-3 Pro - PLA mid-layer warping (layer separation) - salvageable?
I just got into 3D printing with an Ender-3 Pro. The test dog printed great, some custom small/thin objects printed good, and now I tried my first big object.
Designed in Tinkercad (link to my (updated) design), exported to .stl, sliced and printed using Cura 4.5.0 with the default 0.2 mm profile (3 layers wall thickness) and 100% infill (for strength), with the extruder at 200 °C and bed at 50 °C. Ambient temperature had been 25-ish °C.
The filament is a brand-new Spectrum Premium PLA (Arctic White). On its box it says it prints at 185-215 °C.
So I got this:
The top (thinner) sections look OK-ish (there are some visible lines, but meh), but the transition from the bottom sections (thick) to the top has terrible layer separation and warping problems. One side of the base is actually barely holding together when I'm holding it. There is also a smaller problem mid-way at that side of the base, but it's not catastrophic.
1. Why did that happen? What did I do wrong? How can I print it again and get it nice and strong?
~~2) I have a handheld "3D print pen". If I use it to fill the gaps manually, how strong will the part be? The part is meant to "hug" the iPad charging port, so that you can hold the iPad in the bed while charging, without pressing the cable on your body and damaging it.~~ nvm that
---
Using wall thickness of 4, layer height 0.16 mm, 30% infill and 205 °C extruder, this is my (successful) result.
---
I also repaired that broken part. Did it for the aesthetics, but it feels quite strong.
# Answer
One hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger than lower values. By having such a high infill figure, the forces on the model as it cools are magnified and not in a particularly good manner.
Consider that you could use twenty to thirty percent infill to get the strength you require for this application, saving filament and time for the print. You've not noted how many wall layers used, but for increased strength, four to five would make for a very strong model.
> 5 votes
# Answer
The reason for this sort of error might be either 1) a clogged nozzel, try doing this 2) disturbed bed level,resolve this issue 3) poor filament quality,
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, adhesion, infill, warping
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thread-13409
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13409
|
Ender 3 Pro prints leaning
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2020-04-14T03:06:43.343
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro prints leaning
Hello 3D printing experts...I am stuck on my 1st print not coming out right. After two prints, I finally got the X axis belt tight enough to print the test pig and it came out quite well. I tried to print a filter holder for a PPE mask (makethemasks dot com) - the prints keep leaning and I can't seem to get this filter holder printed. I have adjusted the eSteps in various increments, still leaning. I have made belt adjustments too. I have emailed Creality as well since I have heard that their support might assist as well. I was so excited when the pig finally printed properly and now I am struggling to get even once mask filter holder printed after hours of tinkering and reprinting. I have also tried to print the ear saver (show as a long mass in the lower left corner of the photo), the base stuck to the item and I could not get it loose, it just fused together. sigh. I know 3D printing is supposed to be a fun hobby, but I am sure getting off to a rocky start. I want to print PPE masks and be helpful to my community by donating to hospitals. I hope one of the settings recommendations help. I tried to research adjusting the jerk and acceleration settings. Not sure what to set those to with the Ender 3 Pro.
# Answer
This looks a lot like layer shifting, both gradual and sudden. This is frequently caused by excessive friction on one axis, the one along which the print is leaning. You mentioned tightening the X-axis; if these are leaning along the X axis, chances are good the belt is too tight and causing something (either the belt or the toothed gear it is attached to) to rub against something else (the frame, the v-slot extrusion, the motor itself in the case of the belt gear).
Both the X and Y axes should be fairly easy to move by hand with the power off. Feel for any points where that isn't true.
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3
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