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thread-11360 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11360 | Prusa i3 MK3S keeps clogging during print. Ugly streaks sometimes, and complete clog when printing with lower layer lines | 2019-11-13T19:43:55.203 | # Question
Title: Prusa i3 MK3S keeps clogging during print. Ugly streaks sometimes, and complete clog when printing with lower layer lines
The extruder on my Prusa i3 MK3S keeps clogging while printing. Loading is fine, and each time it clogs, unloading and loading the filament seems to work. The filament extruded just after resolving a clog looks like it has small bubbled on it.
The problem only seems to happen when printing certain models. Printing the Batman symbol at 0.15 mm works every time. But the model I'm trying to print always fails at most a few minutes in.
I've tried cleaning the nozzle. Cold pull twice, and taken it out and heated it with my airgun and trying to work on it with the acupuncture needle.
The print that fails is this "Small Pill Container" with 0.1 mm layer height and 100 % infill, but printing a simple cylinder shape (25 mm outer diameter, 2.5 mm walls) creates the same problem. Trying to print them both at the same slicer settings with 0.15 mm layer height still fails.
The model was sliced using the newest version of PrusaSlicer 2.1.0 and printed with Prusament PLA at the factory recommended 215±10 °C, and tried 220 °C.
Any ideas what could be happening? Anybody experienced a similar issue?
Printing the bundled TreeFrog 50 μm sliced by Prusa for the Prusa I3 MK3S cased the same problem. Jam happened about 30 min in. I guess this rules out slicer problems as the root cause.
---
*After a lot of research, it seems a lot of people have problems with the MK3 clogging, especially with PLA, and especially with prints with a lot of retractions. The issue seems to be the design of the heat-break, which has a throat between 2.2 mm and 2 mm, where the PLA can get stuck. I've ordered a new heatbreak. Please read this answer of my findings.*
# Answer
> 3 votes
My problem was 2 things. The **heatbreak**, which was switched out for the MK2 version(Explantation below). And the **Teflon Tube** that runs down the heatsink.
## Heatbreak
Change the heat-break to a generic E3D one. You can order the heatbreak for the **MK2** from prusa, or any generic heat break for the E3D hot-end assembly.
On the Prusa i3 MK3(s), this component has been given a 45° taper in the middle, between 2.2 and 2 mm. This is done to ease filament retraction for the MMU, and will be nothing but problematic if you are not using the multi-material upgrade. Especially with higher nozzle pressures(eq. with lower layer lines), the filament may be squeezed into this taper, clogging the hot-end.
You may not experience full clogs, but partial ones that will show themselves as streaks in certain layers on the print.
## Heatsink Teflon Tube
There is a teflon tube that runs down the heatsink. It's crucial that this is mounted correctly and it is not entirely intuative how.
First, press the teflon tube into the heatsink all the way to the bottom. Then, try to pull it out slightly. You'll notice that the small plastic ring at the top of the heatsink will pull out slightly along with it. Now, hold this black plastic part at it's current position with your fingernail, and push the teflon tube in the extra amount. When done, there should be no play in the tube.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The problem with low layer heights is that the filament flow is low, this means that the filament is at prolonged times at temperature, filament cooking can cause clogging. Try increasing the layer height to 0.2 mm to observe if the same clogging problems still occur, furthermore, try lowering the extrusion temperature.
Also, heat creep is a known issue (insufficient cooling of the cold end) to cause clogging. Note that this is unlikely on the Prusa MK3S, but you could check whether the fan rotates freely and that there are no additional obstructions in the flow path.
It could be that a combination of too much hotend temperature and a low filament flow is causing this issue.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, extrusion, nozzle
--- |
thread-11410 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11410 | Chamber heating using hysteresis in Marlin | 2019-11-22T00:43:44.027 | # Question
Title: Chamber heating using hysteresis in Marlin
Is anyone using hysteresis with their chamber in Marlin?
I have read bang-bang with hysteresis is possible when using a bed heater. I would like to do that for chamber heating. I have some lamps that can't keep flicking on and off so rapidly around a setpoint - this causes the bulb to die out faster and the noise is annoying.
Steps to Reproduce:
1. Start with fresh Marlin Firmware bugfix 2.0
2. Enable chamber temperature in Configuration.h (`TEMP_CHAMBER_PIN 1`)
3. Set chamber hysteresis value to 2 in Confgiuration\_adv.h (`#define TEMP_CHAMBER_HYSTERESIS 2`). Enable `#define CHAMBER_LIMIT_SWITCHING` in Configuration\_adv.h. Decide on pin to use for your heater, if necessary
Expected behavior: I would like, when I set my chamber to 30 °C, the chamber lamps to come on until 32 °C, and to stay off until 28 °C.
Actual behavior: chamber heater lamps flick on and off at 30 °C (29.9 - on, 30.1 - off).
# Answer
It does work, but you need to reset EEPROM memory once updating the firmware, if you had it enabled, so the values are transferred into the EEPROM and subsequently used.
To reset EEPROM, send the following command in your 3d printer terminal.
`M502`
Then, save the firmware default settings
`M500`
> 3 votes
---
Tags: marlin, heat-management, chamber
--- |
thread-11412 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11412 | Warped bed - bulge vs dip? | 2019-11-22T05:52:49.123 | # Question
Title: Warped bed - bulge vs dip?
Theoretically what is better- a warped bed with a dip in the middle, or a bulge in the middle?
(I would instinctively think that a dip would be better, since in a perfect world the glass build surface would still span the dip, and then the flatness of the surface relies on the structural integrity of the glass, whereas a bulge would not do the same, instead causing the glass to teeter atop the bulge)
Thoughts?
# Answer
> 2 votes
That depends on the use. If you have a slate of glass a dip might be better (but the heat transfer at the dip would not be ideal), a bulge would stress and tilt the glass.
If you print directly onto the metal build surface it would not matter if you use a(n automatic) bed levelling system because you can compensate for the bulge or the dip using a mesh of the bed. Without a scan of the build platform you would have issues in getting the filament to stick.
Basically, there is not a better solution, best solution is to get a flat bed if the bulge or dip are making printing difficult.
---
Tags: heated-bed, warping
--- |
thread-11416 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11416 | Thermal runaway with specific prints | 2019-11-22T13:00:47.630 | # Question
Title: Thermal runaway with specific prints
I have been experimenting with PETG on my CR-10 upgraded with an E3D all-metal hot end and Marlin firmware on the controller. I am printing with 0.8 mm nozzle at 250 °C and an 85 °C bed.
When I print in vase mode, the prints come out beautifully (and quickly with the 0.8 mm nozzle). However, with solid-body prints, I routinely get a thermal runaway fault at about the third layer (the fault references E1). Can anyone suggest how to solve this and why the thermal runaway protection only trips with solid-body prints?
For context, when I tried to print the same solid-body print in PLA (205 °C hot end and 50 °C bed) I did not get the thermal runaway fault.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Thermal runaway protection (see What is Thermal Runaway Protection?) is triggered when the scheduled voltage to the heater element does not result in a specified increase in temperature within a specified timeframe.
The exit of hot filament from the nozzle and the loss of heat of the heater block and the conduction heat loss through the heat break to the cold end need to be supplied by the heater element. When the filament melting temperature is high, heat losses are relatively high as well, this means that the software needs to compensate by scheduling the heater element more quickly/activated sooner (there is some heat capacity in the heater block) and longer. If it is unable to provide enough heat than is being used, the temperature cannot be maintained and the printer notices that scheduling power doesn't result in a temperature rise. This will trigger the thermal runaway protection in the firmware.
This can imply that too much heat leaves the nozzle in the form of hot filament, and as such, your printing speed may be too high (or the printing temperature too high).
Note that you are using a 0.8 mm nozzle diameter, this means a flow increase of $ \frac{0.8^2}{0.4^2}=4 $ with respect to a "standard" 0.4 mm nozzle! A slower print speed is therefore advised anyways.
To solve this, you can either:
* Insulate the heater block, e.g. with a silicone sock
* Install a different type of heat block, e.g. a E3D Volcano which has a larger heat input zone
* Print slower
* Print at a lower temperature
* Change the firmware settings of your TRP (should be done with care!)
To explain the latter option, from the Configuration.h you can read that if you encounter these problems, you can tune this in the Configuration\_adv.h
Excerpt from Configuration.h:
```
* If you get "Thermal Runaway" or "Heating failed" errors the
* details can be tuned in Configuration_adv.h
```
Excerpt from Configuration\_adv.h:
```
* If you get false positives for "Thermal Runaway", increase
* THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD
```
So you need to change these constants:
```
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40 // Seconds
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // Degrees Celsius
```
The most effective solution for your problem will be limiting print speed and experiment with printing at slightly lower temperatures.
---
Tags: marlin, creality-cr-10, petg, thermistor
--- |
thread-11210 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11210 | My DIY printer only boots when all my endstops are triggered. Why is that? | 2019-10-20T18:43:55.220 | # Question
Title: My DIY printer only boots when all my endstops are triggered. Why is that?
Recycling a Robin Nano board to build a 3D printer using an old computer PSU (300 W), it only boots on when I have no endstops pugged in at all or if I trigger all the ones I have plugged. At the moment I release them the screen goes off (but the fan of the PSU is still on). Does anyone have any clue about what's going on ?
# Answer
> 3 votes
From your fault description of printer logic board losing power when endstops are released it sounds to me like those endstops are shorting VCC to GND when not pressed. That the fault also goes away when the endstops are unplugged reinforces this.
I guess the logic board has its own protected regulator because otherwise you would be shorting out the power supply and that would also turn itself off after likely causing a lot of damage to the logic board.
# Answer
> 2 votes
It ended up I had like super cheap endstops that were actually shorting VCC to GND, as suspected by r\_ahlskog. Just bought other ones and now it's working fine.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, endstop
--- |
thread-11415 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11415 | Using stepper motors with integrated controllers | 2019-11-22T10:17:00.017 | # Question
Title: Using stepper motors with integrated controllers
I just scavenged stepper motors from an old laser printer. These have integrated controllers. I'd like to use them without dismantling the controllers. I currently have 4, 6 and 9 wires stepper motors. Any help would be reatly appreciated :) Thanks !
# Answer
Many of the motors that look like stepper motors in laser printers are actually three-phase brush-less DC motors. These look like stepper motors, but are intended to be used differently, controlled differently, and serve a different function. Like stepper motors, they have a permanent magnet rotor surrounded by coils of wire.
They typically are used in applications that require a definite rotation speed, rather than a definite position -- velocity rather than location. They create feedback to their controlling board via an encoder.
Differences include having a smaller number of poles, and possibly having three coils rather than two. I suspect that the magnetic field profiles of the poles may also be different, since the primary design purpose is not to sharply define the restoring torque curve for a small deviation of the rotor from a rotational position.
If these are the type of motors you have in hand, you won't find them very useful for a 3D printer motion control system. They are great for any form of continuous movement where position isn't critical -- maybe wheel motors for robots or for peristaltic pumps on your automated drink mixer.
You may ask on what experience I speak. I have done tear-down analysis of several laser printers by different manufacturers.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, stepper-driver, stepper, motor, arduino
--- |
thread-11418 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11418 | Why am I getting Z banding/shifted layer on a single layer? | 2019-11-22T13:26:02.340 | # Question
Title: Why am I getting Z banding/shifted layer on a single layer?
While I was calibrating my flow rate/extrusion multiplier, I noticed that one layer is shifted slightly. I wanted to re-print the cube in-case it was a fluke, but after two more prints, I saw that the same layer was being shifted in the same way. Also, that is the only layer that is shifted, every other layer is perfect/almost perfect.
I'm using Cura 4.3.0, on an Ender 3 which I purchased about a month ago. The extruder is upgraded to a Trianglelabs Bondtech BMG clone. The E, X, Y, and Z steps have all been calibrated. The bed is level (I'm using a Creality ultrabase glass bed). I have upgraded the stock PTFE tubing to Capricorn, upgraded the PTFE coupler fittings (they have plastic tab inserts to keep the tube in place). The X gantry is level. I've also re-lubed the z-rod with super lube, made sure the lead screw nut is loose and printed out a z-spacer for the z stepper motor. That's about it, I'm still using the stock board but my SKR mini is in transit right now. Finally, the filament I'm using is the filament that Creality bundled in with the printer when I purchased it off their official website so I don't know how quality their filament is.
Below is a picture of what I'm talking about, I've highlighted in the area with a sharpie. Sorry for the bad image quality my phone is on its last legs at the moment haha:
This is the guide I was using to calibrate the flow rate and also where I got the STL
# Answer
I started this as a comment but it couldn't fit. If it isn't a true answer and should be removed, I understand.
You suggest in your question that perhaps the defect could be caused by a problem in the Z-axis lead screw. Indeed, that is possible. If so, it would probably introduce a defect at that position across the entire print bed. If you print a test object and the defect is on all faces at the same height, check your Z-axis. With the power removed, try slowly moving the bed up and down through the region where the defect occurs, feeling for any hangup, hesitation, looseness, or any other non-uniformity.
If the defect is along a particular line, check the complementary axis. If the glitch is a X-axis line, check the Y-axis. If a Y-axis line, check the X-axis. Slid the axis back a forth slowly, feeling for any non-uniformity in the motion. It could be a scratch on the linear bearing, or a ding from dropping something. Any discontinuity can cause a linear Z-axis defect, up or down.
It could even be cause by the printer not being firmly sitting on the table at an angle, so that after a particular point the balance point changes and the printer rocks, introducing a glitch.
3D printers, and many other motion control systems, relay on flat, smooth, uniform bearing surfaces connected to smooth, continuous drive systems.
If you attach photos of all four surfaces, we might have a better idea of how to look for the problem.
It wouldn't hurt at this point to wipe and clean all sliding surfaces, and then re-lubricate them.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3, calibration
--- |
thread-4530 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4530 | Weird ripping and warping of ABS print | 2017-08-22T19:32:11.643 | # Question
Title: Weird ripping and warping of ABS print
I print my ABS at:
* 240 °C;
* with a bedtemp of 80 °C;
* 5 % rectilinear infill;
* 0.25 mm layer height;
* 2 solid layers top and bottom;
* Fan is completely disabled;
* 0.25 mm extrusion width;
* 50 mm/s perimeter print speed;
* 60 mm/s infill speed;
* 20 mm/s top solid and solid speed;
* No acceleration.
When printing ABS, I place an aluminum foil lined cardboard box over my printer to help keep the ambient temps up for less warping and stronger prints. I've never actually measured the temperature inside, but the cardboard box insulates very well.
I get this weird kind of tearing in my prints, I'm not sure if it's from too large of gaps in my infill, too fast print speeds, or not enough top layers.
Another guess is some kind of drooping because of the high ambient temps.
The tearing only occurs on large top layer surfaces.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Looking at the infill pattern visible through the tears in the top layer, it looks as if you have unreliable extrusion on the infill layers also.
The solid fill layer is lifted and torn, so it is unlikely that one or two more layers of solid fill will make the result better. In my experience, bumps lead to taller bumps and print failure.
These diagnostic steps have helped me:
* Print a 3 layer solid fill version, the top surface should be smooth and free of bumps;
* Print a single layer version, it should be smooth, well attached to the print bed, of even thickness, and a good surface for the next layer.
Given your results, I am suspicious that you may have one of these problems, which I've listed in the order of likelihood:
1. Partially blocked nozzle
2. Excessive drag from the filament supply, such as a spool with crossed filament which jams itself, preventing unwrapping;
3. Extruder feed roller slipping (perhaps full of dust), often a side effect of 1 and 2;
4. G-code error dropping the temperature;
5. Bad heater or thermistor, perhaps intermittent short of the thermistor, causing under heating even though the "average" indicated temperature is correct.
Printing gliders is a cool application. It shows off the weight advantage extrusion 3-D printing can deliver. Nice.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I believe it is from the ABS falling into the gaps of your 10% infill. I print ABS with 35% honeycomb infill and I use five or more solid top layers at 240°C. Fewer, and it sags into (or exposes) the infill layers.
I recommend more top layers and a higher infill percentage.
I also recommend starting the cooling fan at 50% capacity or more, before starting the first solid top layer.
# Answer
> 0 votes
This looks a bit like you may have a level issue with your printer. I've had similar results when my nozzle isn't clean and my bed is slightly off level. When the nozzle isn't clean (inside and out) either the flow rate out is different than what you set it to be due to back pressure or there is material on the nozzle causing the nozzle to drag through the molten plastic.
I also use a lower nozzle temperature, around 220-230°C. Printing with 10% infill is my standard setting with two shell layers, honeycomb fill or diamond fill.
# Answer
> 0 votes
First of all, don't specify the extrusion width, the slicing software does the calculation for the optimal value by itself: if you watch this video about extrusion width and you cross the data with this tweet you will see that the standard value is already optimal.
Second, if you put the printer in a box for insulation you should redo the temperature calibration tower to find out which temperature produces the best results.
Once you do both you'll find the problem will disappear.
---
Tags: print-quality, abs, desktop-printer, heat-management
--- |
thread-11424 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11424 | Prusa i3 mk3 step skipping and layer shifting | 2019-11-23T22:42:01.473 | # Question
Title: Prusa i3 mk3 step skipping and layer shifting
After approx. a year of more or less problem-free printing (40 days print time) with Prusa i3 mk3 kit, we started to suffer the random layer shifting on Y axis.
* We inspected all the motor connectors are properly inserted in the mainboard and the wires are intact.
* We ensured all the pulleys' screws on the x/y motor shafts are very tight and secure to be sure the pulleys don't slip.
* We inspected the belts and pulleys, there is no mechanical problem like dust blobs, filament residues, etc.
* We tightened the belts to be hard enough to show the expected `support|belt status` value (under 280) after `self test` is performed.
* We switched off the `crash detection` feature.
* We fully cleaned/re-lubricated the Y axis linear bearings and the rods to be sure there is no dirt causing any friction.
* We tightened the nuts on the U holders fixing the bearings to the bed (hard enough not to squeeze the bearings so they can freely move on the rods).
* We bought Japan `PNY LM8UU` bearings and replaced the original ones on Y axis (suspecting they are worn out).
Nothing of these helped fully:
* Some steps improved the quality (like only one random skip in print).
* Some steps degraded the quality (like additional step skips in previously flawless X axis).
Since the issues started, we had 4 hour reference design to be printed again and again using the same setup/filament etc. It became reference because its print started to exhibit the skips. We refused to slow down the print or perform any other workarounds, because we wanted to `make the printer great again` ;-)
**What else should have been done to revert back to flawless prints without random X/Y step skipping and thus layer shifting?**
# Answer
> 2 votes
Long story short: **Try to replace the stock power supply.**
* We connected UPS between the printer supply and the wall outlet and the skips reduced to one/two per print.
* We replaced the supply with random old used `Mean Well SP-320` (zero care about the power panic feature, just plain 24V connected) and voilà: reference design passed.
* Also few more complex designs after supply switch are still flawless, so we hope that was the problem and it's fixed now.
* This Q&A post is to help others to skip the major frustration and save some time.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, layer-shifting
--- |
thread-8474 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8474 | Printing temperatures for ABS on a Flashforge Adventurer 3 | 2019-03-15T19:27:40.177 | # Question
Title: Printing temperatures for ABS on a Flashforge Adventurer 3
I've recently acquired a Flashforge Adventurer 3 and am having difficulty printing with ABS. The initial layers seem to lay and stay pretty well, though after a few more moments, one side will peel up from the heated platform. I'd like to know if anyone has optimal and tested temperatures for the use of ABS on my printer for the nozzle and platform?
I've used FlashPrint for slicing my objects using the following options:
* Supports: Disable,
* Raft: enable,
* Resolution: Standard,
* Layer Heights: 0.18 mm,
* First Layer Height: 0.27 mm,
* Perimeter Shells: 2,
* Top Solid Layers: 4,
* Bottom Solid Layers: 3,
* Fill Density: 15 %, Hexagon, Every 2 Layers,
* Print Speed: 60 mm/s,
* Travel Speed: 80 mm/s,
* Extruder: 225 °C,
* Platform: 70 °C,
* Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic,
* Nozzle Dia.: 0.4 mm
# Answer
The most commonly used print temperature range for ABS is 220 to 240 °C with the major bulk around 230 °C. Some filaments are blended with inhibitors or PC, increasing their print temperature to up to 260 °C. Note that the color of the filament just as the brand can have an impact on the print temperature!
The most commonly used bed temperature for ABS start at least at 80 °C. MatterHackers suggest 85-90 °C.
If your bed is particularly bad at getting adhesion, you might want to clean the bed of residues and fingerprints and relevel the bed. If that is not enough and you use a glass bed, a slurry of ABS in Acetone could come in handy. If you have a glass bed, the slurry is pretty much the best option.
Print cooling is a bane on ABS - the stuff shrinks too fast if cooled, resulting in the parts breaking loose!
> 3 votes
# Answer
If one edge is peeling up, the first layer isn't sticking. You may need to go through a first-layer troubleshooting process.
1. Is the bed flat and parallel to the Z-plane traced by the printhead?
2. Are you taking appropriate steps to attach the ABS to the bed?
3. Is the bed hot enough to reduce shrinkage of the printed ABS object?
For sticking ABS to the bed, I've had good luck with two approaches: a PEI-coated bed surface, or ABS slurry on a non-PEI surface.
For bed temperature, I usually run a little hotter: 100 °C.
> 3 votes
# Answer
*Note that some of the other advice is general advice which is not applicable to the Adventurer 3.*
Temperature control is somewhat limited on Adventurer 3. The maximum bed temperature is 100 °C. There is no "glass bed". My Adventurer 3 is struggling to get the bed temperature to 98 °C. (The room temperature is 16 °C at the moment). I'm using Blu Stik glue on the bed to hold the print. Another possible problem is loss of heat out the side when the filament reel cover is off. The cover of mine is off because the reel of ABS does not fit in the bay. I've seen designs for filament bay covers with a hole in them to feed the filament in on Thingiverse. I'm considering building a box to put the printer in to keep the ambient temperature high.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Having the same issues with the Adventurer 3. I have printed the TUSH (The Ultimate Spool Holder) and cut a 3 cm hole in the door. This enables me to run the spool directly into the printer with the door closed unsing a minimum sized hole.
I am also printing the pieces at 235 °C nozzle temperature using glue as a heatbed adhesive.
The adventure 3 has no build plate adjustment apart for adjusting the nozzle height when it is centered. Does not leave you much room for adjustment.
> 1 votes
# Answer
This I hope will help:
1. You must see which is the type of ABS you use, in terms of temperature. If you have an ABS material which melts at 220 - 250 °C it is difficult cu work with it using an Adventurer 3. For example I use Verbatim (220 - 240 deg Celsius) and that works well.
2. Bed temperature must be set between 90 - 100 degree Celsius.
3. For beginning, it is good to work with Raft activated.
4. Do not use "Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic", because the fan will work all the time. This is not good, it will peal your raft all the time because of the temperature difference between bed and fan blow. It is good to set the cooling fan "ON(when to pre-set height)" usually I use 1 mm to 1.5 mm max. This will start the cooling fan at the height you indicate.
5. Always use the cooling fan as mentioned before because your print will be much better with it, you'll see.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: abs, flashforge-adventurer-3
--- |
thread-11422 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11422 | Marlin "Tune->Bed Z" vs "Tune->Babystep Z" vs Z Offset? | 2019-11-23T07:13:20.813 | # Question
Title: Marlin "Tune->Bed Z" vs "Tune->Babystep Z" vs Z Offset?
What is the difference between:
* Tune -\> Bed Z
* Tune -\> Babystep Z
* Control -\> Motion -\> Z Offset
And when are you supposed to use "Bed Z"?
# Answer
* Tune -\> Bed Z
http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd\_menu.html#tune
Per description in this table, this refers to the Mesh Bed Leveling process. It allows to modify all saved mesh z-offsets by the given amount.
* Tune -\> Babystep Z
http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M290.html
This just instructs the motor to move the given amount, once, without changing any parameters.
* Control -\> Motion -\> Z Offset
http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html
Here we are talking about the offset of a z probe (e.g. BL-Touch) from the nozzle.
> 7 votes
---
Tags: z-axis, print-axis-offset
--- |
thread-10587 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10587 | How to pause a print to insert something in a cavity using Ultimaker Cura? | 2019-07-14T11:06:39.267 | # Question
Title: How to pause a print to insert something in a cavity using Ultimaker Cura?
I have a model that contains a cavity, into which I want to insert a piece of metal, so I can use a magnet to stick to the print. How can I introduce a pause into the G-code without manipulating it manually in Ultimaker Cura?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Ultimaker Cura contains "Extensions"; in version 4.1.0, the process is as follows:
* Extensions -\> Post Processing -\> Modify G-code
* Add a Script -\> Pause at height
+ Choose the one that matches your firmware!
* Choose the `Pause height` to match the height the insertion should take place. Usually, this is to be the layer just before the roof is to be printed to keep the inserted objects from protruding from their cavities.
* Choose a park position well outside of the print. X 10 Y 10 is usually a good position for this.
* Add a little retraction if you want.
In printing, you have to wait till the cavity is formed, insert the item quickly and press the control button to resume. The shorter the pause, the better the next layer will hold to the already printed.
Also, keep in mind to make the cavity a little larger than the insert, both in XY and Z, to compensate for the plastic shrinking a little and to allow the nozzle to pass well over the inserted item.
# Answer
> 3 votes
This answer already explains how you insert the G-codes to enable a pause into your model. But, **this will only work if the printer supports the G-codes that are inserted by Cura**. E.g. this question shows that this does not always work!
To pause the printer you would need to resort into other methods, e.g. a manually inserted `G4` (Dwell) would be a viable solution as shown in this answer.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code, knowledgebase
--- |
thread-11433 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11433 | In Fusion360, how do I align components according to their a midplane? | 2019-11-26T14:54:17.227 | # Question
Title: In Fusion360, how do I align components according to their a midplane?
In Fusion360, how do I align components according to their a midplane?
I have 2 complex objects. They have no midpoint defined (is that even possible). How do I align them according to their mid points?
# Answer
There are several ways to lock items together.
# Designed in position
When you design the parts from the base up, you should lock the very first sketch to the origin in some way or another. Fusion shows this by making any "well defined" line as black in contrast to blue, like shown here:
# Using Components
Once you have bodies, you can pretty much move them around in the timeflow. You then can start to define them as components. Let's assume we have these parts, a bolt, and a part into which it hinges. Of course, these two are modeled "in place" but that hasn't to be:
Now, we want to lock them together... well, first, let's start and put them into components! Highlight **one**, then choose the "new component" command, and make sure it stays highlighted, from bodies is chosen then hit enter.
Repeat for the other part, so your tree should show 2 components now.
## Combine Components as modeled
Now we want to combine them *as modeled*, right? Ok, let's do that, it's easy! get out the dropdown from the combine menu and press *combine as modeled (Ctrl + J)*
Now, click both components and at first it will start to shake the screen, having chosen "Stiff" combination. This means the parts don't shift one against the other. If you had them in the right position in the first place, they will stay that way. But there are other ways, which are in the menu that popped up:
If for example, I choose "rotation", I can choose a rotation center by placing a node as seen here:
## Creating Joints between Components
Now, what if the components are not in position like the bolt is in the wrong position entirely? Well, start with components, as shown above, then we'll see:
Now, we should use the joint function:
Choose the first Component, then seek the point which face-position (or for cylinders: position on centerline) shall be the first component's joint-point shall be. For our part, let's take the big part's hole. Click the face, then choose one of the available points. For cylinders that's the ends and the center, for faces, it's the corners, center points of the edges and the center. If you hit the possible alignment points in the first place, it skips the second click to choose it. Once that is done, the body turns transparent.
Repeat the same process for part 2 and the magic starts: Both parts suddenly move till the alignment points are in the same position, the screen shakes and BAM! We are at stiff joint again! The menu changes and we can start to define offsets!
> 4 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, fusion360
--- |
thread-11431 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11431 | CR-10S / Ender5+ LCD Touchscreen Firmware Editing | 2019-11-25T20:13:24.397 | # Question
Title: CR-10S / Ender5+ LCD Touchscreen Firmware Editing
How would I go about editing the LCD menus for the touchscreen?
Oddly the Ender 5+ is supposed to be an upgrade but the Ender 5 (regular) has so much more stuff you can control from the LCD screen. Flow control, PID tuning, etc.
With my Ender 3 is was pretty easy- you simply edit the `ultralcd.cpp`, you can then add your own menus and commands.
On the Ender 5+ and the CR-10S pro I'm guessing the touchscreen has its own set of firmware files- I am guessing this because I found a set of files for the touchscreen- different color screens and such, but they do not include any uncompiled files nor does the marlin firmware for the CR-10 have any mention of those image files in them.
So where do I go next? Thanks!
---
*The Ender 5+ and CR-10s both got rid of the traditional LCD with the wheel in favor of the touchscreen; unfortunately it has a lot less functionality. I don't know where to find the specs, I got this printer from Creality "official" website but they will not release specs on the boards in this printer, I already emailed them. Here is a pic of the board itself.*
# Answer
I've been digging into the sources and from what I understand, it is not very easy to change the menus, you should possess some programming skills to change it. It appears that the screen is operating on its own firmware and the board is running a special fork from Marlin.
The screen is identified in code by constant `CREALITY_DWIN`. It appears that the screen receives/uses precreated images (from this download you find these screen captures). The code references the bitmaps by a number and a base number (`ExchangePageBase`). E.g. codeline:
```
RTS_SndData(ExchangePageBase + 78, ExchangepageAddr);
```
sends this image:
The specific code is found in this specific fork of Marlin in files Creality\_DWIN.cpp and Creality\_DWIN.h.
In order to make your own menu item, you need to add code to send new bitmaps and retrieve the touched position.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, creality-cr-10, creality-ender-5
--- |
thread-11438 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11438 | M502 will reset all configurable settings to their "factory defaults", which settings are those? | 2019-11-27T10:20:23.010 | # Question
Title: M502 will reset all configurable settings to their "factory defaults", which settings are those?
From the `M502` documentation page can be read that `M502`:
> Reset all configurable settings to their factory defaults.
<sub>*Please note that this phrasing from the manual has been used in the question title!*</sub>
> To also reset settings in EEPROM, follow with M500.
Note that:
> This command can be used even if EEPROM\_SETTINGS is disabled.
The question is what is the definition of *"all configurable settings"*?
Are these the settings that are displayed with `M503`, or are there hidden settings?
# Answer
> 5 votes
What Marlin does when `M502` is called is defined in the `configuration_store.cpp` file.
It resets:
* Max acceleration
* Steps per mm
* Max feedrate / speed
* Min segment time
* Acceleration (Normal, Retract, Travel)
* Min feedrate
* Min travel feedrate
* Jerk settings
* Junction deviation
* Home and SCARA offsets
* Hot end offsets
* Filament runout sensor distance
* Tool change parameters (Swap length, extra prime, prime speed, retract speed, Park positions, Z raise)
* Backlash correction distances and smoothing parameters
* Extensible UI
* Magnetic parking extruder settings
* ABL (fade height, stored points, nozzle offset, servo angles
* Delta calibration data (Height, Endstop offset, radius, rod length, segments per second, calibration radius, trim angle)
* Dual / triple endstop adjustments
* Preheat parameters
* PID parameters
* self-defined thermistors
* LCD contrast
* Power loss recovery
* Firmware retraction
* Filament diameter (for volumetric extrusion)
* Endstops (if disabled)
* Stepper drivers
* Linear advance parameters
* Motor currents (digipot)
* CNC coordinate system (if selected)
* Skew correction parameters
* Advance pause filament change lengths
# Answer
> 3 votes
Technically, the description as "factory settings" is misguiding, as the settings called up are much better described as "firmware defined settings". But since Firmware upgrades usually are rare and far between, these settings can be considered "factory" for the usual user, even as we always urge users to test if their firmware has TRP enabled and upgrade if not so.
Depending on the firmware, this usually means the settings described in this answer, but it could also be more narrow or extend to different and custom settings inside the firmware. Marlin, when it uses EEPROM\_SETTINGS, uses `Configurations.h` and the additional `Configurations_adv.h` to define what the factory settings are.
For example in this question the firmware defined the additional settings in `Configuration_adv.h`. Installing firmware does not by itself alter the EEPROM, so these settings needed to be *seeded into SRAM* via `M502` and then *saved into EEPROM* via `M500`.
The remaining commands in the `M50X` series are obviously `M501` and `M503`. `M501` overwrites the SRAM settings with those from the EEPROM, useful if you toy with the SRAM settings to troubleshoot or play with offsets in a somewhat safe manner. `M503` in turn reports all settings currently in the SRAM, which can be changed during running. Most of these settings can be stored into the EEPROM, if EEPROM\_SETTINGS is enabled, but they don't necessarily have to come from the EEPROM at the moment, as they can be altered due to a lot of reasons. Your G-code to print could call for example `G20` and `M149 K` just to mess with you by swapping to Inches and Kelvin, but that would be easily fixable by recalling `M501`. This following `M503` output was given as an example by Sebastian.expert:
```
G21 ; Units in mm
M149 C ; Units in Celsius
Filament settings: Disabled
M200 D1.75
M200 D0
Steps per unit:
M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z398.70 E100.00
Maximum feedrates (units/s):
M203 X400.00 Y400.00 Z8.00 E50.00
Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E10000
Acceleration (units/s2): P R T
M204 P400.00 R1000.00 T1000.00
Advanced: S T B X Z E
M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E5.00
Home offset:
M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
Auto Bed Leveling:
M420 S1 Z0.00
Material heatup parameters:
M145 S0 H195 B55 F0
M145 S1 H205 B60 F0
PID settings:
M301 P52.25 I5.60 D122.00
Z-Probe Offset (mm):
M851 Z-2.41
```
Note that with a console or terminal, you could sometimes alter EEPROM settings directly via a UI. Among the terminals I know to have this ability is Repetier Host.
---
Tags: marlin, g-code, knowledgebase, reset
--- |
thread-6664 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6664 | Strange layer separation issues on Ender 3 | 2018-08-14T04:44:35.477 | # Question
Title: Strange layer separation issues on Ender 3
I got my Ender 3 a couple weeks ago. Within a couple days of test prints, I was able to get it working pretty well. Prints looked great. However, I installed a more permanent solution to my X-Gantry binding issues and now print quality is down again.
The bottom .25" of the calibration part looks absolutely terrible, with hideous layer separation issues, while the upper .75" looks flawless. I have little idea what could be causing this issue.
The only possible failure mode I can think of is that the bed isn't the right distance from the print head, but even fiddling with the knobs doesn't yield any better print quality than the print on the right of the first image. What can I do?
I slice with Cura and can make my profile available if it would be useful.
# Answer
The answer now seems brain-dead obvious now. *Hindsight is 20/20, amirite?*
I had a decent filament clog in the extruder past the end of the Bowden tube. This was resolved by sticking a nozzle cleaner rod up and down the filament path from the top of the extruder block several times and clearing the filament jam from the bottom of the Bowden tube. The printer works flawlessly now.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Well, you have several problems with your print. One that could be affecting your print is the nozzle temperature. The print looks wavy and has a lack of adhesion, so the filament is not flowing properly, causing under extrusion and will provoke a clogged nozzle.
Try to increase the temperature by 5°C and do a small test, don't wait to waste material and try another 2-3°C more.
Try to reduce the printing sped; try reducing the feed rate on your printer to 90% or less. While printing you can reduce the feed rate to see which speed works better at your printing temperature. I prefer to do this first rather than change the temperature; If you notice that your print gets better at lower feed rate *then* change your temperature higher to print a higher speed.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I had a real problem with what I was poor bed adhesion and layer separation on my 6month old Ender 3 pro. this problem started all at once, I checked the bed height several times and layer height, temperatures etc still the problem was there. Then I noticed the filament guide pinch roller was at a slight angle and on further inspection the plastic arm on removal was fractured so instead of holding the filament against the toothed drive it was metal to metal causing a slip on the nozzle feed. I ordered a replacement aluminium feed roller kit at £6.99 the machine is working as it did when I first got it. So it’s worth removing the pinch arm and inspecting.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-11436 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11436 | Switched to a Bowden setup. Should I retract the filament out at the end of a print? | 2019-11-27T06:42:42.957 | # Question
Title: Switched to a Bowden setup. Should I retract the filament out at the end of a print?
I switched my Anet A8 over to a Bowden and it's printing great. Moving that weight off has enabled me to almost double the speed and resonance problems have vanished.
My question is regarding after the print is done should I add a retraction code and back the filament out of the v6 or is it okay to leave it in there?
My concern is that if I leave it in there, will it cause a clog or anything when I warm up the printer tomorrow to print something else? If that's not a something I should be concerned about let me know.
# Answer
> 7 votes
It's okay to leave the filament in the hot end, as long as you let it cool down with the hot end cooling fan running.
---
*From comment:*
> That's not an issue, you can simply leave it in the hot end. The only "end of print" clogs usually occur when leaving the hot end hot for a while - allowing the filament to drip out - and then retract the filament without feeding it against the nozzle once more. That creates a plug that's larger than the filament diameter that might get stuck in the bowden tube
# Answer
> 0 votes
I agree with towe's answer. I would leave it, retracting at most a mm or two just to avoid a mess. If you retract much at end of print, initial state for the second or later print is different from after just loading new filament, and this leads to different priming/skirt outcomes for the two cases, which can be problematic.
# Answer
> 0 votes
After the completion of a print, remove the filament from the Bowden tube as it may break while not printing and can sometimes be difficult to remove. Basically if you aren’t going to do another print soon, remove the filament.
---
Tags: anet-a8, bowden
--- |
thread-11435 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11435 | Anet A8 Z-Probe Bed Positioning going outside of bounds | 2019-11-27T06:00:50.600 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 Z-Probe Bed Positioning going outside of bounds
I have an Anet A8 with the Anet 1.7 board, Skynet3d v2.3.2, and the stock sensor. I originally had this configuration with the stock extruder, but recently purchased an E3D v6 clone with a Bowden extruder. After installing a new bracket I had printed (TNS E3D v6 Bracket) with the adjustable stock sensor mount. I installed the extruder and sensor.
I knew I had to adjust sensor position. I went through the 3DStackExchange post on Z probe boundary limits as well, and added all of the end positions and probe to nozzle offsets (I will list below) to my `Configuration.h` file, saved, checked the changes were there in the `Configuration.h` tab in the Arduino IDE and uploaded the firmware. After this I went to hit auto leveling in the prepare menu, and the positions were different from the stock extruder and mount, but when it got to the third position, the sensor was off the bed, and the nozzle dug into the bed.
The configuration I was editing was from the Anet A8 5 button stock sensor `Configuration.h` file.
My probe is (When looking from the front of the Anet A8) forward and right of the nozzle.
* My Y-axis offset is -3 (the sensor is 3 mm in front of the nozzle when looking from the front)
* My X-axis offset is +37 (the sensor is 37 mm to the right of the nozzle when looking from the front)
The stock `min_probe_edge` is 10 mm, so with my math my Left Probe Bed Position is 47, Right is 210, Back is 207, and front is 10.
I want to get my probe settings properly set up so I get my bed leveling back and I do not want to ruin my bed while leveling.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you have done major revisions to the printhead by changing to another carriage, it could be that the nozzle in the carriage is not at the exact position as in the previous carriage.
So, have you made sure that the new carriage has the appropriate values so that the nozzle is at (0, 0) when commanded to that position? Alternatively, in different wordings, this translates to: "Is the printer printing in the center?/Are the prints centered on the build plate?". See e.g. "How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)".
From the Thingiverse link van be read that this carriage requires an offset. The carriage design mentions a shift of the X axis:
```
#define X_MIN_POS -10
```
Is that working for you?
---
*General remarks regarding the firmware update: Have you also loaded all values from firmware using `M502` and then `M500`? (if `M500` commands are enabled). Also, Skynet3D is obsolete!, use Marlin instead!*
# Answer
> 0 votes
Do you have eeprom enabled? Because if you do, you can change configuration.h all you want but it's always gonna use the values from eeprom. I advise you to install repetier and change the eeprom values with that. Or maybe you can use the display if you have one.
---
Tags: anet-a8, bed-leveling, z-probe, skynet3d
--- |
thread-11043 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11043 | What is the thermal conductivity of various 3D printing filaments? | 2019-09-19T13:49:20.723 | # Question
Title: What is the thermal conductivity of various 3D printing filaments?
**Thermal conductivity** is how well a plastic conducts heat. Most plastics don't conduct heat very well at all, which is what allows them to be 3D printed. That being said, there are a lot of potential use cases for highly thermally conductive filament, assuming you could print them. A commonly discussed one is computer heatsinks. Similar heatsinks could also be used for stepper motors and extruders in 3d printing.
To get a good picture which plastics are useful in such an application (like mentioned in question: "Water-cooling stepper motor with aluminum block"), I need to know what is the thermal conductivity of the commonly used thermoplastics.
# Answer
All values are in W/(m\*K).
* PLA: 0.13
* HIPS: 0.20
* ABS: 0.25
* PETG: 0.29
* PEEK: 0.25
* PLA with copper: 0.25 (see discussion)
* PETG with 40% graphite: 1.70 (ansiotropic)
* TCPoly: 15
* Steel (not a 3dprintable plastic): 10 - 50
> 5 votes
# Answer
Trimet3d has a Nano diamond PLA with a claimed thermal conductivity 3-5 times that of PLA. The diamonds are sub-microscopic and smooth. See https://www.tiamet3d.com/product-page/ultra-diamond-pla-1kg Primarily they seem to be doing it to gain strength.
I would prefer larger diamonds for higher thermal conductivity. It would be ferociously abrasive even for a diamond nozzle. It would also limit the thermal expansion.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament, filament-choice
--- |
thread-11458 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11458 | Convert ball-stick model to STL from the command line | 2019-12-02T11:14:10.940 | # Question
Title: Convert ball-stick model to STL from the command line
I regularly have 3D models that consist of a Boolean union of balls and cylinders (molecule models, star maps, mathematical designs), that I then want to convert to a STL model for printing at Shapeways. But I don't know how to easily do that! I already have the model as a series of floating point numbers (four for each ball, and seven for each cylinder), so I don't want to have to go into a graphical interface to click/drag points. Instead I want to convert my lists of floating point numbers to STL from the command line.
I thought this would be a trivial thing, but I cannot find what is the best tool for this. All I need, I think, is a pointer to what tools are most appropriate (although more detailed help will be appreciated :-)) I thought that "gmsh" might be good for this, but it is not immediately clear to me how to use it for that.
I would like the software for this to be "free", in the sense that it does not cost money. Also, I am not a Windows user, so I would like to be able to run this under Linux or macOS.
# Answer
I would suggest using OpenSCAD for this. OpenSCAD does not natively support reading data files that aren't 3D/2D models or images, but you can write a simple program to generate OpenSCAD code.
I would suggest first writing an OpenSCAD file that implements your chosen type of "ball" and "stick", perhaps like:
```
module ball(x, y, z) {
translate([x, y, z])
sphere(d=10, $fn=60);
}
module stick(x, y, z, length, rx, ry, rz) {
translate([x, y, z])
rotate([rx, ry, rz])
cylinder(d=5, length=length, $fn=60, center=true);
}
```
Then, take your data file — let's suppose it's a CSV —
```
ball,0,0,0
ball,100,0,0
stick,50,0,0,100,0,90,0
```
and convert it into OpenSCAD by adding the appropriate syntax (this could even be done using a basic find-and-replace tool):
```
import <ball-and-stick-definitions.scad>
ball(0,0,0);
ball(100,0,0);
stick(50,0,0,100,0,90,0);
```
Then, producing the STL is just a matter of running the `openscad` command on your generated OpenSCAD source code.
If your stick parameters are not Euler angles but "start point" and "end point" you'll have to add the "rotate to point at…" math yourself, but that is within OpenSCAD's capabilities as it has vector math operations and `multmatrix`, or trigonometry if you prefer to generate Euler angles; you don't need to do that math at the file-conversion stage.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
--- |
thread-11462 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11462 | Clearance between moving parts | 2019-12-02T21:44:23.470 | # Question
Title: Clearance between moving parts
I am using a Prusa printer to print parts for prototyping. The project I am currently working on needs parts to be able to slide against each other and they need to be printed together. A bit like these gears, where the whole construction needs to be printed in one go and the gears need to be free to move afterwards. What clearance should one use between such moving/sliding parts to make it snug but not unmovable?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Each printer will have different "print in place" tolerances, but you can find such a model with which to determine the numbers you seek.
One such item is on Thingiverse:
---
Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, linear-motion
--- |
thread-11455 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11455 | Does CuraEngine get some advantage slicing cylinders to move the head back to the center twice on each layer? | 2019-12-01T19:50:11.337 | # Question
Title: Does CuraEngine get some advantage slicing cylinders to move the head back to the center twice on each layer?
To date I have used RepG and Repetier with CuraEngine to do my slicing. In various instances when printing a layer of a cylinder it will start in the middle and head out toward either side. Then it moves the nozzle back to the center and prints toward the other side.
Knowledge of TSP suggests the print would go a lot quicker if the travel operation back to the middle were omitted. Here is an example.
By that I mean that to fill the layer of a cylinder from one edge, across the middle to the edge on the right.
My question is why is this done? **What advantage does printing it in two passes have over printing it in one pass?**
# Answer
> 3 votes
I have seen this behavior a lot in CuraEngine slices. Mostly older versions of the slicer. Not sure if they actually improved it. You could see this a lot in long and complicated forms. I also don't like this. Not only for unnecessary moves, but also for imperfections due the start in the middle. Sometimes you can tell where the filling started and which segments were printed separately.
I think it comes down to several issues here: 1.) Starting from the middle saves a move at the beginning of the fill. It probably starts the fill where is stopped printing the perimeter. If the change you want would be implemented, a move after the fill printing would become necessary to start at the right position. So therefore the benefit of faster printing might be gone already.
2.) For the sclicer implementation it is hard to do. The algorithm that computes the print moves for the fill just knows the start point (end position of last perimeter line) and the points that define the area. It does not know if the area is round or square or shaped like a "C" or like a "Y". Usually the slicers have a preferred direction that changes with every layer. This way the fill lines of different layers cross each other and that probably increases stability. I have seen slices where the fill started several times in "C" shaped prints. Also if you think about the "Y" shape. If you start at the bottom then you can print horizontal lines and fill the form until you reach the split. Now you have to decide which arm to print fist. And then you have to do the other arm separately. As you can see a perfect way to fill all possible shapes in one go is impossible. And defining an algorithm that can fill any shape with only knowing the outline is already hard. I assume the solution has to do with splitting a form into segments and to then fill each segment after the other. Even your example form has probably more sections than only the two obvious ones.
What could be done would be to "optimize" the sequence used to fill the segments. Basically adding a computing step that checks if by introducing a move to the best starting point the fill of the segments could be done in one move.
Again that is probably rather hard to do, but CuraEngine and other slicers are open source, so if you or somebody else would like to invest some time to get this feature that would be great!
# Answer
> 0 votes
It doesn’t really have much of effect in the actual print. I’m pretty sure the setting can be modified either in the GUI or through gcode. Usually it’s just the standard process when filling in a flat surface. There could be some minor benefits that are quality related. But my main assumption would be for ironing if you have that setting enabled. It would allow it to smooth it better starting from the middle.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing
--- |
thread-11475 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11475 | How can I convert STL files into PDF drawings? | 2019-12-05T01:25:09.703 | # Question
Title: How can I convert STL files into PDF drawings?
Does anyone know of an easy and free way to convert my STL models to a PDF drawing for CAD and metal CNC machining?
I've created some great designs that are all STL files and want to somehow send them to a CNC/milling machine to make my designs in metal parts.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I've had good results with using the free web-based program known as Onshape which allows you to import/create 3D models. One of the features built into Onshape is a drawing tab. You can select the views desired or use a standard layout, as well as add dimensions to the individual drawing views.
This image above was of a model created in and exported from Tinkercad. No dimensions have been added in this example, but it's available as part of the software. Being browser based, the program will work for any platform.
In order to make this answer more accurate, I attempted to duplicate the results shown in the drawing.
I've discovered that I used Fusion 360 to import the STL. The next step involved turning off history feature, then converting the STL to BREP. Once in BREP form, the no-longer-STL file can be exported as .step, which is accepted by Onshape.
Fusion 360 is a free-to-hobbyists program, but does not run in a browser. There may be other programs which will convert STL to .step and there may even be a browser converter-specific site to accomplish this.
I recognize that this is a convoluted solution, but it's not particularly burdensome, overall.
---
Tags: 3d-design, stl, cad, file-formats
--- |
thread-11472 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11472 | How to use second hotend for bed heating? | 2019-12-04T14:54:20.437 | # Question
Title: How to use second hotend for bed heating?
The heated bed output on my printer recently stopped working. I have an output for a second hotend. How can I reprogram this output as a heated bed output? The board is a Geeetech GT2560 rev A+.
# Answer
*Although it appears to be a RAMPS compatible board as described in this **now deleted** answer, **it is not using a RAMPS pin configuration**.*
---
To fix this in the firmware, this requires an upload of newly configured firmware to the board. See e.g. question: "How to upload firmware to reprap printer?". For Marlin firmware (which is also loaded at the factory) You need to assign the correct board number or constant name (amongst several other things) in the Configuration.h file. Note that this is "clearly" described by the manufacturer here.
From factory, a version of 1.1.X is loaded note that version 1.1.9 is the last of the 1.x branch, the default is now version 2.x.
From the manufacturer of your board you find that:
```
#define MOTHERBOARD 7
```
needs to be set. Note that using number is old, nowadays you would use a constant. For board number `7` this is the constant defined as `BOARD_ULTIMAKER`. Note that in version 2.x this number is now 1117, so the preferred usage is the constant name `BOARD_ULTIMAKER`!
Specifically for your board, the Configuration.h file should contain:
```
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_ULTIMAKER
#endif
```
The pin arrangement used by this board is found in `pins_ULTIMAKER.h`.
In this pin file you need to swap the pin numbers that identify the bed and the second extruder (`E1`) thermistor pin. In this file change:
```
//
// Heaters / Fans
//
#define HEATER_0_PIN 2
#define HEATER_1_PIN 3
#define HEATER_BED_PIN 4
```
to:
```
//
// Heaters / Fans
//
#define HEATER_0_PIN 2
#define HEATER_1_PIN 4 // or -1
#define HEATER_BED_PIN 3
```
Note that it could be that the `E1` heater output may not be designed to take the high current load the bed requires (depends on the traces on the board and the used MOSFET; with respect to the MOSFET, the manufacturer states that:
> 3 55Amp MOSFET (with LED indicator, the actual output is restricted by the PCB board and the connector), all 3 MOSFET are equipped with heat sink to ensure sufficient heat dissipation and stable operation
, implying that the MOSFETs are identical). It is therefore advised to use an external MOSFET module. This will keep the high currents away from your printer board. Such a module looks like:
You need to wire the second extruder heater leads to the white cable, the power and the bed leads use screw terminals and are clearly labeled.
> 2 votes
# Answer
If you want to use Extruder heater and thermistor 2 as a hotbed driver, then you will need to get an external mosfet, since I doubt that the extruder heater mosfet will be able to handle the required current. Then in your slicer, just remap the bed from BED to E2
> 0 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, reprap, geeetech
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thread-11464 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11464 | Removing Supports Inside Cone | 2019-12-03T01:01:40.070 | # Question
Title: Removing Supports Inside Cone
I'm new to 3D printing. I've made some projects before just fine, but this project is giving me problems.
I 3D printed a trumpet mouthpiece, and the printer made supports inside the mouthpiece funnel. I can easily remove the exterior supports, but I don't know how to get to the supports inside. Does anyone know how I would do that?
Here is the link to the model
# Answer
That model didn’t need supports. Most of the time you can break the connections with the supports to the model by inserting a knife or flat object into the cavity. In this case you could use a probe to loosen the joins then wedge it out. If that doesn’t work you can use needle nose pliers to remove prices.
Your best and cleanest option would be to reprint the mouthpiece without supports at all. Print it so that the wide section(the section touching your mouth) is on the buildplate.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Based on the photo provided, there's a strong possibility that you can print that model without internal supports. The angle of the walls falls within the limits of just about any FDM/FFF printer. An exception to this would be if you had a structure internal to the cone of the mouth piece which needed support.
ERROR: I neglected to note that your print is created "laying down" rather than vertically. This certainly complicates the printing/support problem. I typically print cylinders without internal support, although it does result in a small amount of droopies within the cylinder. Those are easily cleared away as required and much more easily than a full support forest.
Is it impractical for you to consider to cut the model in half, print both segments, remove the supports more easily, then glue them together?
> 3 votes
# Answer
"Don't use supports"\<-- that is the best answer.
## Warning
Sadly, if you print vertically, you end up with an extremely fragile piece -it'll snap between layers. The OP properly printed horizontally for strength, and possibly by using a very "thin" layer height he can get by without supports. That's the only way to succeed.
I guess I should state that this answer assumes you want to use the print in a trumpet. If it's purely for decoration, then definitely print vertically.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality
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thread-11484 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11484 | Question about the MK8 Extruder | 2019-12-06T08:37:35.970 | # Question
Title: Question about the MK8 Extruder
I am trying to make a 3D printer (Prusa i3 model). I was testing all steppers and all steppers are working, however the Mk8 extruder (direct drive) is not working and I don’t know why. Can someone help me?
# Answer
It’s either because you haven’t connected it properly or you have not mounted it the correct way. This could lead to the damaging of the part and failure to work again.
Check your connections with the stepper motors and hotend power wires. Make sure the connectors are in fine condition and cords are not frayed. Ensure all power is completely off and mains cable is unplugged.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: extruder
--- |
thread-11486 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11486 | Usable build volume of a Makerbot Replicator Plus? | 2019-12-06T14:32:10.510 | # Question
Title: Usable build volume of a Makerbot Replicator Plus?
I've got a class with access to a few Replicator+s. Makerbot's official site gives a build volume of 11.6 x 7.6 x 6.5 ". (LxWxH)
Out of curiosity (I'm not intending to print it), I created a 11.6 x 7.6 x 6.5 inch rectangular prism and placed it in the build plate in the Makerbot software. It didn't like that, so I scaled it back to 11.5 x 7.5 x 6.4 inches to fit inside the build volume. It accepted that, and I could click the generate preview button, but then it got stuck 50% of the way through generating the preview and toolpath. I'm guessing that the extruder can't *actually* reach all of the build volume and so it can't generate a toolpath to create this monstrosity. Does anyone know the actual volume that it can reach and actually utilize?
# Answer
Exactly what software are you using to slice? From your description, it appears the gcode was successfully generated, but the software choked when trying to draw teh preview image. That could be due to lack of local RAM or problems with memory leaks in the software. This happens when the number of layers and the complexity of the layers gets large.
Try just creating a plain rectangular solid and set a large layer height. Let us know what happens with that.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: makerbot, replicator+
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thread-11150 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11150 | Anycubic Kossel Plus raises the Printhead around the corners of the bed too High if the print is too close to the corners | 2019-10-11T09:19:07.563 | # Question
Title: Anycubic Kossel Plus raises the Printhead around the corners of the bed too High if the print is too close to the corners
Hi guys I am quite new to 3D printing. I am having this problem with the printhead rising too high during printing when it gets near to the beds' borders. It isn't a problem with smaller prints but it gets very frustrating with bigger ones. I am thinking I am doing something wrong with the calibration but don't know exactly what. I am not calibrating by hand rather using auto calibrate.
I am using Cura 15.04.03 as slicer.
# Answer
> 2 votes
It is a common problem with "delta"-style circular parallel kinematics machines. It is called Bowling. It can lead to the presumed Z=0 plane having a bowl-like shape. The actual error shape can be more complex. The job of "bed-leveling" is to make the realized z=0 plane to be identical with the bed.
If you can, use a multi-point (like 40+ points) interpolation. It builds an error map, and adjusts every point based on that map.
---
Tags: print-quality, nozzle, kossel
--- |
thread-11442 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11442 | 3D scanner for both replicate and quality control 3D prints | 2019-11-28T09:45:17.703 | # Question
Title: 3D scanner for both replicate and quality control 3D prints
I've switched to industrial 3D printing. I use 3DSystems Flex 100 printer. As I print high detailed parts soon I've found out that I have to use quality control. Software is not a question. I use Geomagic Design X and Geomagic Control X. Sometimes I also Use Solidworks as I started my engineering way with Solidworks :-) The thing is that I have to choose a 3D scanner.
It has to work with small (3-7 cm in general) high detailed parts. I also would like to use the scanner as a helping tool with reverse engineering.
Actually, I have one scanner in my mind: 3D Systems recommended me the Artec Micro. I've researched all the data Artec provides... It sounds good, resolution, works with Geomagic software, bla bla bla... But when I've tried to search web for any user experience, I've found pretty nothing. I'm quite a noob with 3D scanning so I'm afraid to buy such a device without being able to see if it really suits my needs.
The question is: "Does anyone have experience with this or any other 3D scanner, used for similar purpose as mine an can recommend it, or tell me not to buy it?". Or any tips how to find out if the scanner suits my needs before actually buying it. I know how to choose the right printer, but scanners are confusing:-)
# Answer
> 1 votes
Thus question is very close to being out of the scope of the questions encouraged on the 3D Printing SE site, but you have worked closely with Trish and Oscar to make it into less of a "recommend" question and more of a "how might I choose" question
**What to look for in a 3D scanner?**
You mentioned using the scanner for quality control. Lets start with that.
The best way I know to do optical quality control is to image each layer after deposition rather than viewing the completed object. Especially for printing engineered objects, like rocket fuel pumps and jet turbine blades, it is important to be able to see inside the object and detect voids, bad adhesion, and points of unexpected stress. That is hard to do with the full object, and easier to do layer by layer.
But this may not be the QA requirement you are trying to meet. Maybe the gross object appearance is what you are controlling for.
If so, you need to define what is good enough and what is a failure. With those criteria, you can see which scanners give you that discernment.
I suspect that won't be far off the requirements for the "reverse engineering" you also intend.
**Another criteria is the software**.
It's the workflow simple, or can it be made simple? 20 clicks through detailed menus which must be done correctly and in sequence is not easy to get right twice a week when you need out.
**Consider the color of the illumination**
Be sure it will not interact badly with your objects. A red laser does not scan well a red object.
**More is more, not necessarily better**
Higher resolution is great if you have three I/O channels to support it, the disk space to store it, the RAM to hold it, and the processing power to absorbable it.
---
Tags: cad, scanning
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thread-11495 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11495 | Efficient way to create a "mold" of a solid object in Meshmixer? | 2019-12-08T10:02:16.170 | # Question
Title: Efficient way to create a "mold" of a solid object in Meshmixer?
Currently I have a model of a fingertip finished in my project, however, I would like to create some sort of "cap" that if printed would fit on top of that finger. Is there a good way to achieve this in meshmixer?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Surely! First of all, a mold is, simply put, the negative of the item. So we need to make such a negative and give it some thickness. I have this funnel model...
We start Meshmixer, import our funnel and then go into `Meshmix` and pull a cylinder into the frame. We size and align it to hide the funnel but for a tiny part at the top (or however much you need to have covered in the mold)
We click the cylinder, press `SHIFT` and the funnel top. In the top corner a menu pops up:
We choose "Boolean Difference", the menu changes to show this:
Next we alter the `Target Edge Scale` till we see the top corner (0.6 seems to work) then accept. The result is this mold:
But that's a REALLY snug fit at this moment. 0.0 mm space. We can use that to cast our funnel... but we might want to make this a box for our funnel or we know that our casting material shrinks some 4 to 5 % when curing. So we need some space in the mold or box. So we need to shift the faces some. What happens to holes if we scale the whole thing up by... say 5 %? They become 5 % larger of course! So let's just do that!
* `Edit`
* `Transform`
* hook `Uniform Scaling`
* pull X, Y and Z out by 1 mm (which happens to be 4 % in case of a 25 mm item.)
+ Use those square boxes marked with green dots to pull
Accept and... DONE! Last to do: export as STL and here you go! a Mold that is 4% larger and could be a cap for the funnel.
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, stl, molds, meshmixer
--- |
thread-10038 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10038 | Can't seem to fix over extrusion | 2019-05-27T17:37:59.347 | # Question
Title: Can't seem to fix over extrusion
I'm struggling to get my printer up and running for a few days now. The problem is as follows. I got a test model of a cube (40x40 mm) and everytime I try to print it, the nozzle creates these 'lines' on the print which is caused by over extrusion I think? See image:
This goes on for every bottom layer and ultimately when it starts printing the infill the nozzle starts digging into the print and I'm forced to stop the printer, see image:
What I have tried so far:
* Calibrating my extruder (by marking 100 mm on filament and command extruding 100 mm, check difference and adjust E step/mm accordingly)
* Performed an auto bed leveling
* I even halved my flow rate in the slicer (Ultimaker Cura), this gave signs of under extrusion of the first layer but the second layer looks over extruded again
* Tried different temperatures in the range of 190-210 °C (I'm using PLA), made no significant difference
My settings and gear:
* HE3D K280 Delta 3D printer
* E3D V6 Volcano hot end (original, not chinese)
* E3D Titan Extruder (original)
* Marlin 1.1.8 using Ultimaker Cura as slicer
* Nozzle 0.6 mm, layer height 0.2 mm, print speed 50 mm/s
* 1.75 mm PLA
If anyone could help me fixing this that would be great!
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your images look as if your initial nozzle to heat bed offset is too large. This causes the filament not to be squished. Try re-levelling and have a piece of plain printing paper have a little drag when pulled.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I would look for Z-axis compliance or springiness. If the Z-axis is too compliant, then it will have a "slight drag on a piece of paper" over a significant commanded Z height.
When printing the first layer, the head will be elevated by the pressure of the plastic being extruded pressing against the bed. When printing the second layer, the actual Z-height won't be a full layer higher, as the previous layer was lifted. The second layer will also be lifted, but it will drag through the first layer.
To test for this, manually set the z-height using a metal feeler gauge. If you don't have one, use a strip cut from the side of a soda can. Set the z-height so that there is some like pressure against the gauge. Increase the height by 0.1mm. The gauge should now be free. If not, continue increasing by 0.1mm steps until the gauge is free. That is how much compliance you have in the feed.
From a home-designed delta I built, I know that there are several sources of this compliance.
First check the 12 joints. Are they tight? Do they have wiggle room? That wiggle room can destroy your precision. Try squeezing the pairs together at the top and bottom with rubber bands.
Second, check that the print head carrier (the part that moves around) is stiff and doesn't flex with pressure against the nozzle.
Third, check that the vertical travelers are following their tracks tightly. There should be no wiggle room for them, either.
Fourth, check the belts, which must be tight. If there was no vertical wiggle in test three, they are probably OK, but tighter is usually better.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I think You need to re-calibrate Z steps. Sometimes Marlin default z-steps/mm won't fit for 3D printer, because it depends on the hardware(z-axis threaded rod) that used to build the 3D printer. Check whether the Z-axis moves the distance that you command it to move. (ex: command to move x distance and check whether it moves the commanded distance)
---
Tags: print-quality, extruder, ultimaker-cura, extrusion, nozzle
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thread-4166 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4166 | How to fix bad extrusion on my printer | 2017-05-31T03:43:50.787 | # Question
Title: How to fix bad extrusion on my printer
Around 30% into a large print I had to cancel as the layers of the print were not full layers and looked very stringy. Here's a couple pictures of what it looked like.
I have a feeling that it may be because of my retraction settings either being too high or too fast as this section it was printing had to use a lot of retraction. My retraction settings are 40mm/s for 4.5mm. I was printing at a pretty slow speed (around 55mm/s), and I'm sure confused on why it's not extruding properly at certain times. If anyone has any idea on what is happening and how to fix it it will be gladly appreciated!
I have an Anycubic Delta linear printer with a Bowden extruder, I use white 1.75 mm PLA at 200C, .4mm nozzle
# Answer
It appears that at a certain point, you're running into issues with the extrusion being a bit too viscous / melted causing it to over-deposit or string (fail to retract completely). It also looks like this issue gradually gets worse as you go. This really feels like nozzle over-heating to me.
My troubleshooting steps would go like this:
1. **Make sure my cooling it set correctly and fan is working properly.** The nozzle doesn't adjust its temp for changes in extrusion speed. At times the printer has to rely on the cooling to get the extrusion leaving the nozzle to an ideal deposition temp, which is far lower than the temperate of the nozzle.
2. Check my tool paths to make sure I'm not starting to return to the same X/Y position too immediately when I reach certain layers, not allowing the previous layer to fully solidify. **Consider tweaking the slicer or printing at a lower temperate.**
3. Check if there's a lot of variance in print speeds for different tasks (shell, infill, etc). It can be hard for some printers to maintain the right temp for the extrusion about to be deposited if the speed changes too rapidly. If your printer has been heating extrusion rapidly for quick movements and then the speed slows way down, it can struggle to keep the subsequent slow filament from getting overcooked, as it can't instantly cool the nozzle even with proper cooling. **Bring the various extrusion speeds closer together.**
> 1 votes
# Answer
Try using 20 mm/s and 3.9 mm for your retraction and that should help. Also, what is your fan speed at?
> 0 votes
# Answer
It seems your printing temperature is too high. If there's a tiny space between the nozzle and the Teflon tube, high printing temperature will lead to a partial clog. And this will lead to under extrusion. Try lowering printing temperatures and printing speed. And also check whether there's a gap between the Teflon tube and the nozzle.
> 0 votes
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Tags: print-quality, extrusion
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thread-11503 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11503 | Printing 2x slower after upgrading to "MarlinTarantula" firmware | 2019-12-09T13:05:32.623 | # Question
Title: Printing 2x slower after upgrading to "MarlinTarantula" firmware
I have a TEVO Tarantula printer, recently I have upgraded it's firmware from the stock firmware to marlin 2.0 using this configuration repo.
Since upgrading my prints take 2x the time they used to (and the time Cura says they should take). I have tried to increase the printer's acceleration and jerk maximum configuration, but it did not help.
In addition, another symptom that is new is that whenever a straight line is printed (for example an infill line) instead of the motors moving in one swift motion, I can see (and better yet, hear) them moving in a different speed. Specifically, it looks like the motors slow down midway and start again.
How can I address those issues?
# Answer
First, Ultimaker Cura estimated printing times are not necessarily accurate for non Ultimaker printers. For Ultimaker printers this is perfectly tuned, Cura estimates the printing times from experience for the UM3E correctly. Please look into question "How to determine real printing speed (tarantula/cura)?" which is relevant to this question and has an interesting accepted answer.
Second, changing the MAX accelerations will not work, you should increase the default acceleration:
From the TEVO Tarantula Marlin fork you read from the Configuration.h file:
```
/**
* Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* Override with M204
*
* M204 P Acceleration
* M204 R Retract Acceleration
* M204 T Travel Acceleration
*/
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1000 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 2000 // E acceleration for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves
```
From the main Marlin source you will find:
```
/**
* Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* Override with M204
*
* M204 P Acceleration
* M204 R Retract Acceleration
* M204 T Travel Acceleration
*/
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // E acceleration for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves
```
The TEVO Tarantula sources have lower default acceleration values, you could try to increase those.
> 3 votes
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Tags: marlin, tevo-tarantula
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thread-11459 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11459 | overlaying epoxy resin on PLA | 2019-12-02T14:11:26.753 | # Question
Title: overlaying epoxy resin on PLA
I've been experimenting with FDM 3D printers and PLA for about a year now. I'm at the point where I'd like to produce something considerably stronger than PLA, and was wondering if there is a *faux-pas* list, or general instructions on how to coat PLA with epoxy resin, or even fibreglass/carbon fibre and resin to add strength and a surface to sand and paint.
I would have assumed that I'd need to coat the PLA object using a brush and epoxy resin, but I've also seen blogs where the epoxy mix has been heated enough to become liquid and then the PLA object was submerged in it.
Obviously the fibre coating would most likely have to take place manually by adding sheets, unless I decide to go for shredded fibres (which probably won't provide the strength I'm interested in).
Has anyone tried it, or have a guide on how to do this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have used Styrol based Polyester resins on prints and they created the usual stench as well as a surefire bond and it is easily useable with unstructured fiberglass, as that fiberglass has usually a binder that will react with the styrol and bond the mat.
Epoxy resins also bond nicely to PLA and don't have the styrol smell, but they are not bonding that nicely to normal fiberglass, you want to use them with fiberglass weave.
Either resin is a quite viscous fluid. When you cast a flat surface, it will try to smooth out to a good degree under gravity. When coating a curved surface, you should make sure to align it in way that the lowest point is either the top of the dome or the lower edge, so it settles equally. You can aid in this process by providing heat as this will lower viscosity. An airstream will also aid as it presses onto the surface helping to smooth out unevenness.
---
Tags: pla, post-processing
--- |
thread-11524 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11524 | Building 3D printer: LM8UU bearing can't fit into | 2019-12-10T09:07:43.887 | # Question
Title: Building 3D printer: LM8UU bearing can't fit into
I'm new to 3D printing and I'm learning how to build my own 3D printer.
I bought polymer LM8UU bearings and I'm trying to fit onto a rod of dimension: D8 mm * L300 mm. Sadly it doesn't fit, I was wondering if I would need to buy new rod?
If so, what size of diameter should be used? General guidelines I need to look out for are also appreciated?
# Answer
> 1 votes
### Bearing on a shaft
An 8 mm (ID, Internal Diameter) bearing should always fit on an 8 mm (OD, Outer Diameter) shaft. If it does not fit, one of the 2 is of a different size. Please use a caliper to determine the size of both.
### Bearing in a housing
If it is the outer size of the bearing, i.e. fitting in a printed carriage or a bearing housing (e.g. SCxxUU), you should be aware of the different sizes of polymer bearings. E.g. there are RJMP-01-xx and RJ4JP-01-xx types of polymer bearings (xx denotes the shaft diameter, e.g. 08 for 8 mm shafts).
For RJMP-01-xx bearings (**not** compatible with LMxxUU bearings):
```
// Parameters for RJMP-01-xx (shaft size xx, all dimensions in [mm])
// Designation d1 d2 B B1 s dn
//-------------------------------------------
// RJMP-01-08 8 16 25 16.2 1.1 15.2
```
For RJ4JP-01-xx bearings (compatible with LMxxUU bearings):
```
// Parameters for RJ4JP-01-xx (shaft size xx, all dimensions in [mm])
// Designation d1 d2 B B1 s dn
//-------------------------------------------
// RJ4JP-01-08 8 15 24 17.5 1.1 14.3
```
*d1 is the inner diameter, d2 the outer diameter and B the length of the bearing*
The RJ4JP-01-08 bearings are drop-in replacements for the LM8UU linear bearings. Note that the RJMP-01-08 have a larger outer diameter and do not fit into the regular bearing housings. The increased thickness gives the bearings more rigidity.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, bearing
--- |
thread-7852 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7852 | Important build plate characteristics/qualities | 2019-01-02T13:10:57.223 | # Question
Title: Important build plate characteristics/qualities
I managed to tear my build plate trying to get some very stubborn plastic off it.
I'll need to buy a new one, what characteristics are important for me to ensure it's compatable with my printer?
I can think of:
1. Dimensions
2. Power requirements
3. Connector types
4. That my printer moves the plate in the z axis (?)
---
*NB* I'm so new at this I didn't realise that this was just a sticker on the plate, so I just need to replace this sticker. However, as a question, I'm still curious as there's a good chance I will break it at some point.
# Answer
> 2 votes
If your printer's heated bed still works, but the sticker has been ripped in some places:
* You can try and remove the rest of the sticker, clean the metal plate under the sticker (perhaps with isopropyl alcohol) and then apply a new sticker once there is no adhesive remaining on the heated bed.
* You can remove the sticker with the method above, but instead of replacing it with a new sticker, you can buy a PEI sheet and cut it to size if required (read more about PEI here) and then stick it to the metal plate.
Personally, I would recommend the latter option, since PEI is low maintenance and the prints automatically pop off the sheet once it cools down, however just make sure not to print PETG on it, since it sticks too much.
On the other hand, if your entire heated bed is broken, the best-case scenario is to look for a heated bed that was designed specifically for your printer. Especially since your printer's heated bed has 3 mounting screws instead of 4.
If you somehow have a solution for mounting a heated bed with 4 mounting screws on a printer that uses 3, the things you need to watch out for are the heated bed's operating voltage (it should be 24v) and the dimensions must be the same. If the wires are not provided with the heated bed, make sure to get wires that have high enough gauge so that it is able to handle the high currents that the heated bed will need.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I would say put a glass bed on it and you won't have to worry about tearing it ever again. Many places which sell picture frames can cut out a piece of 3 mm glass for very little (like 1-2 dollars). I've had a normal 3 mm glass bed (no expensive "heat glass" or anything) that's worked fine for 2 years of printing. You can use simple metal clips to hold the glass in place.
As an added bonus the prints pop off by themselves when the glass cools down. I'm usually impatient and remove the glass from my printer and cool it down under water. I wouldn't recommend doing that tho, since you risk cracking the glass due to the heat shock.
Only down side is that it might be a tiny bit tricker to get the print to stick, but I don't really have anything to compare to so I don't know for sure. I only have problems getting prints to stick when my initial layer height is wrong or when printing very small things.
---
Tags: fdm, build-plate, replacement-parts, monoprice-maker-ultimate
--- |
thread-11526 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11526 | Filament Variation Detection | 2019-12-10T16:43:59.517 | # Question
Title: Filament Variation Detection
I'm trying to find out how "normal" filament (not super expensive filament) varies in diameter (or more accurately cross sectional area) over the length of the filament. I've looked around and the only thing I can find, that many filaments are sold with the tolerances, not how "fast" they vary along the filament. A +- 0.1 mm over 1 meter is after all qite different from the same alteration over 0.1 meter.
I am mainly interested in this, as I want to build a printer with very small Z-height steps, thus a small variation in the filament diameter will lead to a rather large variation in the extrusion width. While I thought over the project, I came to the idea of using some kind of capacitance measuring device to detect the cross-sectional area, however it is only possible (or rather feasible) to measure the average cross-section over a rather long section (10cm+). Hence main part of the question: **How "fast" does the filament change diameter?**
The other part is obviously: **Are there other (cheap) ways to measure the cross-section?** I could use light, but then I would only get the diameter at one point (pretty sure the filaments aren't perfectly round) and using multiple sensors would quickly become expensive. And then there's the issue of transparent filaments. Most mechanical solutions have the same issue, only measuring one point and might have issues with certain types of filaments such as very flexible filaments.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You would want a thickness gauge with the ability to communicate via serial. Once you managed to modify Marlin to talk to it, and you engineered a system of rollers for the filament to pass through, then you could automatically compensate for the thickness of the filament.
https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Digital-Thickness-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B07Q33RSH6?th=1
---
Tags: filament, dimensional-accuracy
--- |
thread-8296 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8296 | PETG Sticking to Nozzle | 2019-02-19T02:47:51.657 | # Question
Title: PETG Sticking to Nozzle
For a while now, my AmazonBasics PETG filament has been working like a charm. Now, it is balling up on my nozzle. I've tried slowing it down, re-leveling the bed, etc. I don't want to go through the hassle of replacing my nozzle with a Micro-Swiss all metal 0.4 mm nozzle. I've tried the other extruder which I know works with PLA, but same results. I'm using a Flashforge Creator Pro(2016).
# Answer
It could be that you're having issues now due to the filament absorbing moisture. I had a big problem with it doing that when I had waited for a few months after opening my filament. Dehydrated it using just my heated plate and a foil lined box over the top and it fixed it right up. If that's something you haven't tried yet perhaps that is what is causing you some grief.
> 4 votes
# Answer
PETG does this. PETG is like glue when soft this is why when you level the bed you have to add an additional 0.1 mm distance for PETG. PETG should not be as close as PLA, but futher away. It will stick to the hotend so preferably change the hotend from brass to a nickle plated nozzle (e.g. Micro Swiss, PETG does not stick to that nozzle at all).
> 2 votes
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Tags: pla, extruder, nozzle, petg, flashforge-creator
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thread-11501 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11501 | Smallest dot/dot indent for Prusa MK3S using PLA | 2019-12-09T04:54:51.503 | # Question
Title: Smallest dot/dot indent for Prusa MK3S using PLA
I want to make a project involving many small dots indents and I would like to know how I can calculate the smallest dot hole the Prusa i3 MK3S can extrude around on a layer using PLA. In other words, if I printer a mesh with circle shaped holes, how would I know the minimum diameter of the holes. Is it simply the same as the layer resolution (0.35 mm), filament size (1.75 mm), or is it something else?
# Answer
> 5 votes
There is no direct limit on the size of a hole in XY-plane (that means: oriented so that the hole is visible from above).
The movement accuracy of MK3S (and most other modern 3D printers) is about 0.01 mm. So theoretically you could move around a circle that has diameter of the (default) 0.4 mm extrusion width + 0.01 mm, and get a 0.01 mm hole in the middle of the circle.
In practice, the hole size will be limited by the repeatability of the extrusion width. If in the above example the extrusion width happens to be 0.41 mm instead, there would be no hole remaining.
On a well calibrated printer, 1/4th of the nozzle size should be manageable, i.e. for MK3S you should be able to get 0.1 mm holes quite reliably.
# Answer
> 3 votes
That depends on the ability how fast you get filament to stick to the build plate and whether the filament is loaded in the extruder. It also matters which size of nozzle you are using. The filament diameter has no influence other than smaller filament width (e.g. 1.75 mm) requires more length to extrude with respect to thicker filament (e.g 2.85 or 3.0 mm), and is therefore more precise to lay down (on the other side is the deviation on the filament diameter, i.e. manufacturing tolerance, larger than for thicker filament...).
If it does not stick you need more length, also, if the filament is not preloaded enough, the nozzle chamber needs to be filled first. Note that the printing of several small circles is a challenge, see e.g. "How do I get circles on small interior holes to adhere to the bed?".
# Answer
> 3 votes
The only way to know exactly what limits your model, printer, slicer, and filament operate under, is to test it. While we can provide some guidelines, actual performance varies on a complex set of inter-connected variables. Even the room temp/humidity, filament age, and even filament color, can matter at the tightest margins. You have to consider what the print direction for the holes is (z/x/y), as layering matters even more than the above. And under what print speed and layer height? There's billions of combinations just with your printer alone.
Bottom line: run some test prints and see what you're satisfied with.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Let's look at how small we can print, shall we? Well, we have this filament, it gets pressed into the chamber, melts and then moves out a small orifice. So the first thing that limits print minimum is **nozzle diameter**, which correlates with the **extrusion width** \- usually, I use a factor of 1.1 nozzles for the extrusion width.
Next factor is the bed or **surface** you're printing on which correlates with the **Print material**: some surfaces literally love to take your filament and allow your printer to extrude just a dot, then lift up like PLA onto a well-prepared surface. Others REALLY don't want to stick, demanding you to extrude more, which means you need to draw a circle (POM).
A lesser factor is the **print temperature**, which changes how vicious the filament is and how well you have dialed in your retraction, which determines how much of a "dead" move you have to have on the extruder to get the filament to extrude between dots.
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Tags: prusa-i3, pla, resolution
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thread-11540 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11540 | Smaller outer layer height? | 2019-12-11T17:33:35.497 | # Question
Title: Smaller outer layer height?
I am printing minis and other very detailes stuff and I find that 0.04 mm layer height gives the best looking (smoothest) result. However it takes a long time, so I am looking for ways to speed it up. Is there any slicer which offers different layer heights for the outer perimiter? So you can print your model at 0.12 mm or so, but the outer layer gets printer first 3 times at 0.04 mm?
# Answer
> 4 votes
In Ultimaker Cura, unless you print a single perimeter outline and add extra wall infill support you are not going to have different outer perimeter layer heights.
However, Cura is able to reduce the printing time, E.g. you can have fine layers for the wall (all perimeters), and coarse layers for the infill. The option is called "Infill Layer Thickness":
> # Infill layer thickness
>
> Since the layer height of the infill is not important for visual quality, you can use thicker layers on the infill to reduce the print time. When adjusting this setting, always make sure that it is a multiple of the layer height, otherwise Ultimaker Cura will round it up to a multiple of the layer height. This means that you can, for example, print with an infill thickness of 0.2 mm while the layer height is 0.1 mm. The printer will first print the walls for two layers, and then it will print one thicker infill layer.
Note that this is not a standard option, you need to put Cura in the "Custom" mode and filter/search for the option using the search bar. Below you'll find the upper right corner of the Cura Graphical User Interface where I searched for the option:
Note that there are 2 options, one for regular infill of your product and one for infill of the support structures.
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An other department at work is working together with a start-up university company to 3D print PEEK molds (from pellets) using 2 nozzles/extruders (to create resin injection parts), one has a large nozzle, the other has a fine nozzle. They use their own developed slicer software to use the fine nozzle for the outer contours and the coarse nozzle for infill and support. It could be that they developed this because it was not available in commercial slicers. For the 2 most common free slicers, Cura and Slic3r, there is no option to have just the outer perimeter of different height than the inner perimeters. If you think of it, it is also pretty difficult to execute, you either get:
(which does not improve the quality of the product, it will make the outside more coarse) or you'll get gaps:
Note that both upper images do not include infill, only 1 outer and 3 inner perimeters. The image below is probably what is possible with Cura, so all perimeters the same; green is infill now:
# Answer
> 2 votes
Not what you want but may still be helpful.
PrusaSlicer allows the layer height to be varied along the Z-axis so that you can have more detail in bands where it is needed, and less where it is not.
Since infill is not your time consumer, you may not find the "combine infill every n layers" helpful.
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Tags: slicing, speed, layer-height
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thread-11539 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11539 | Diamond hotend with single extruder motor | 2019-12-11T17:25:17.643 | # Question
Title: Diamond hotend with single extruder motor
Today I started to google the idea of multimaterial printing. I checked out prusa multimaterial upgrade and while it looks nice, it is expensive and will not probably work with my non-prusa printer.
I discovered there is Diamond hotend, which allows for 3 (or even more) colors at the same time. But everywhere I checked, one extruder motor was used for each color. Since my MKS Gen L motor connections are already all used, I was thinking if it would be possible to handle all of the filaments with single extruder motor.
Basically the motor would have long shaft which will cover all filaments, and I would add some servo that would push a pulley against the selected filament.
I think I would slice it as a multiple hotend setup and then postprocess the gcode in a way, that when tool is changed I would add custom command that would push the pulley against appropriate filament.
I would either need a servo for each of the filemants, or maybe with some clever mechanics one servo in different positions could do all of them.
I am just curious if you think this would be possible to do, since I did not find anyone discussing this idea. Probably because it will require adding custom commands to the firmware.
# Answer
> 2 votes
You might save yourself a lot of engineering by copying the Prusa MMU2. Here is a github project for someone doing exactly that: https://github.com/cskozlowski/mmu2
If you look on Prusa's web site, you can find printable parts for the MMU2.
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Tags: fdm, multi-material, diamond-hotend
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thread-11561 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11561 | What's so special about cleaning filament? | 2019-12-14T17:37:28.810 | # Question
Title: What's so special about cleaning filament?
What is different about cleaning filament to make it effective? What is it made out of? How does it work?
# Answer
You may discover that "cleaning filament" is also described as nylon filament. Nylon requires higher temperatures than most commonly used filaments. As you raise the hot end to the required temperature to melt the nylon (typically 250°C, all of the other debris has either carbonized or melted.
The hot end is allowed to cool (30-50°C) at which point the nylon filament is pulled out in the reverse direction. Some 'net references suggest a hard pull, but I disagree with violent mechanical forces being applied to delicate mechanical devices. Perhaps that's why my cleaning process takes two to four attempts. Some net references also suggest to start the nozzle heating after reaching the cooling point and to begin applying force upward during the re-heating.
My Sigma 16 uses the above method and also suggests a "strong pull" which is a translation from "sharp yank," in my opinion.
This will collect the debris from the nozzle and heat break and may completely clean the filament path.
I use "natural" clear nylon for cleaning and perform the sequence two to three times, until the heated portion of the nylon no longer has contamination visible.
Even nylon filament that is not dry enough for printing works for cleaning. The moisture bubbles turn the filament into flimsy punctured nylon thread, but it causes no problem with the cleaning process.
FilamentOne website references most of what I've posted.
The above image resembles my experience, although the severely "dirty" image is much more excessive than my cleanings. The worst is to have PVA support material that has been "cooked" at ABS temperatures or higher for long periods. An almost guaranteed nozzle clog is the result of those conditions.
> 8 votes
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Tags: filament
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thread-8694 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8694 | Best way to fix ABS corner curling on enclosed Prusa style printer with PEI heatbed? | 2019-04-15T12:57:30.940 | # Question
Title: Best way to fix ABS corner curling on enclosed Prusa style printer with PEI heatbed?
I'm trying to set up an enclosed (custom enclosure) Prusa i3 style printer for ABS, but having a fair amount of difficulty preventing the part corners from curling.
Detailed specs:
* Geetech A10 (generic Prusa clone) w/ PEI heatbed
* Custom enclosure
* Slic3r software
* ABS filament (obviously!)
* 247 °C hotend temp
* 115 °C heated bed first layer, 110 °C for others
* Fan on for layer 3 and above
Verified heatbed temperature with calibrated IR imager.
Thus far I have been unable to prevent parts from separating from the heatbed during print, primarily at the corners where stress is concentrated. I've tried various heatbed temperatures from 90 °C to 115 °C, lower hotend temperatures (which just made the problem worse and caused complete print failure), cleaning the PEI surface with alcohol, etc. to no avail. I'm even seeing this to some extent with Benchy, it shows up as a lift to the stern and bow (slight bend parallel to the keel) -- the print is otherwise basically perfect.
I've attached an image of the more extreme curling -- yes, I should probably be using mouse ears on a part like this, but I see the same thing on parts that shouldn't require mouse ears.
What is the best way to fix this particular problem? Temperature adjustments, brims, rafts, something else?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Adding 20mm mouse ears was sufficient to resolve the problem using the original extrusion / heatbed settings. I did not expect mouse ears to be required on the Benchy model, but given the lack of better advice it seems this may be a poorly documented "feature" of ABS.
Results on the original worst-case test model:
Note that the brims will not help if the bed is insufficiently leveled -- the brim has to actually merge with / melt into the base part layer, so the extruder height has to be perfect at the brim to part interface.
Example of extruder too far away from bed:
# Answer
> 1 votes
A tall skirt (like 1 cm tall or more, even as tall as the part) few millimetres from the part would shield the corners and the outer parts from colder air and keep the part temperature high, reducing curling.
It is in principle better than mouse ears, because these just pull the corners, which will still have a lot of internal stress when cooled, but if you keep the part warm as I suggest, the corner will stay flat(ter) by themselves, resulting in a stronger and better print with less internal stresses.
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Tags: prusa-i3, troubleshooting, abs
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thread-11546 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11546 | I need assistance replacing the PTFE tube in the nozzle on our Flashforge dreamer | 2019-12-12T17:25:08.513 | # Question
Title: I need assistance replacing the PTFE tube in the nozzle on our Flashforge dreamer
We disassembled everything in order to unclog the filament from the tube, but now I can't seem to get the nozzle to screw back in to the hotbed with the PTFE tube in place. Is there some kind of trick? I feel like if the tube were slightly smaller in diameter it would work. I'm using the same tube, just without the filament that had clogged it. Am I just not using enough force?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I was able to fix my problem so thought I'd post how I solved it for anyone else that is looking for a possible answer:
I believe the actual problem was that there was filament hardened inside the nozzle which I couldn't see, so that prevented me from being able to push the PTFE tube into the nozzle deep enough. I reassembled the extruder and heated it up, then using needle nose pliers so I wouldn't burn myself, I held the nozzle to the end to block to heat it up, (I didn't actually screw it in) and the stuck filament melted so I could scrape it out. I also learned from Tang, the Amazon flashforge tech guy, that the tube should be 23mm above the block, so that was helpful to use as a guide. As I read in other places, I then inserted the tube into the block to heat it up, which I think made it slightly more pliable and easier to insert into the nozzle.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I got the same issue before. When you tried to push out the material from the tube, one end of the tube was being pressed. The tube was so soft that the diameter at that end was slightly increased. Hence it was difficult to put the tube back. When you tried to tighten the screw, more force applied and the tube end was pinched more. I got some spare tubes from the supplier. I simply replaced the tube. The PTFE tube could be pulled off from the nozzle.
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Tags: ptfe-tube, flashforge, flashforge-dreamer
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thread-11580 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11580 | XYZ DaVinci 3D Printer constantly jamming | 2019-12-18T13:53:28.950 | # Question
Title: XYZ DaVinci 3D Printer constantly jamming
I have an XYZ DaVinci Mini w which keeps jamming. It does not give a Jam Error. I disassembled the extruder 1 time and found a short piece of PLA stuck in it however that did not fix anything. I've also tried using the Load Filament function repeatedly to try to get the filament out but it does not work. However, after disassembling the extruder, instead of just not printing it makes a loud repeated clicking sound.
Any Ideas?
# Answer
The clicking sound typically means the drive gears are slipping on the filament because there is a jam in the head/nozzle.
First thing to do is clear the nozzle. You can use a small drill bit to clear the chamber, but if the extrusion hole (at the tip) is clogged, you'll need to get a set of fine wires designed for extruder clearing. Then heat the head above melting point and slip the wire in (if possible).
In general, I find it easier and faster to replace clogged nozzles. They're cheap, and more often than not clearing the exit hole enlarges the diameter (bad thing).
> 2 votes
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Tags: extruder, xyz-da-vinci-mini-w
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thread-3572 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3572 | PLA bubbling in the first layer of a print | 2017-02-11T17:04:04.767 | # Question
Title: PLA bubbling in the first layer of a print
I am using a Prusa i3 printer and just recently I have been having problems with the first layer. Here is a picture of what it looks like.
I have tried levelling the bed and it seems to be level. I was using a glue stick before but it started bubbling on that, so I switched to tape and that worked once but it is not working now. I wiped the tape with rubbing alcohol and it happened again.
What else can I do to get the first layer right?
# Answer
Oh wow. You are way over cooking your PLA. It is bubbling because it is BOILING. I can tell you have it too hot because the lines are all blurred as if they are liquid and pooled together.
That said I can't give you details because you didn't post settings. I would start by turning the temps to 170 °C for hotend and 60 °C for plate. Also the gluestick it self should never bubble. It is unclear if that is an issue..
> 2 votes
# Answer
Either you are extruding way too hot, or your filament has absorbed too much moisture and the water absorbed inside the filament boils instantly in the extruder, resulting in a gap or "bubble" in the filament, leading to bad extrusion. What temperature are you extruding at with your PLA? Hope this helped!
> 1 votes
# Answer
I had this problem and I had to adjust the nozzle temperature 10 °C below the minimum temperature of 190 °C!
> 0 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3
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thread-10796 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10796 | Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini - Not reaching temperature -> screen freezes | 2019-08-12T09:23:09.270 | # Question
Title: Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini - Not reaching temperature -> screen freezes
I have been having some issues with my Cocoon Create Model Maker/Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini. The hotend doesn't get up to temperature.
I will go to any of the heating functions (start print, preheat, add filament, etc.) and it will begin to reheat the nozzle. The temperature rises until eventually, it stops at any number that is not the desired print temp and the screen freezes. Sometimes it will stop at 150 °C sometimes 180 °C. It all seems quite random but the screen is frozen when this happens.
If anyone had any thoughts it would be much appreciated. My last printer was abandoned due to a similar issue and it's incredibly frustrating.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The solution was posted in a comment, as the asker hasn't posted an answer yet, it is answered in this community wiki answer:
> Ended up replacing the thermistor which solved the problem.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Maybe, the thermistor is not fully seated and does not measure temperature effectively.
Try inserting the thermistor into the hole by filling the gaps with metal wire or conductive paste.
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Tags: hotend, wanhao, duplicator-i3-mini
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thread-11586 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11586 | Monoprice select mini V2 displaying '999' degrees for build plate temp | 2019-12-19T01:35:16.663 | # Question
Title: Monoprice select mini V2 displaying '999' degrees for build plate temp
I have a monoprice select mini v2, and it has worked well up until now. It currently displays 999 degrees for the build plate temperature. This is a glitch, and I don't know how to fix it. Since it thinks the temperature is so high, it thinks that the build plate does not need to be heated. Because of this, many of my prints turn out warped. Is there a way to fix this?
# Answer
You get this temperature reading when there is broken wire. Not owning this printer type, can't you switch out the bed thermistor for a new one? Or alternatively check if a connection is loose.
> 1 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, monoprice-select-mini
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thread-11595 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11595 | Cura 4.4 missing object parts | 2019-12-20T08:20:42.203 | # Question
Title: Cura 4.4 missing object parts
I have this image in STL
But it seems cura skipped the lower panel entirely when slicing the STL.
The base is thick, as you can see here, but it is still missing in Preview, and Cura seems to ignore the base.
I have tried to decrease to 0.1mm for width or initial layer, but cura still ignored the base panel.
I also found this odd behaviour in a number of my models.. such as this:
or this
Notice those missing parts? It is like some parts are floating in the air.
Can someone help me out here? What kind of setting I have to modify?
# Answer
Using the preview feature as you have is a good method to determine that the original model is flawed. It's not unusual to discover detailed models have reversed normals or non-contiguous surfaces, which will not print.
In a simple example, consider a cube for which five of the six faces are properly described by the design software. This would result in all eight vertices being present, allowing the software to present the "missing" face, but the slicer is unable to create this aspect. The cube is no longer solid and is presented as seven zero-thickness panels, which can't be printed.
It is necessary to repair the broken models, by closing gaps and reverting/recalculating normals, but that requires skill in other software.
Some slicers will attempt to repair damaged models, but some are so severe, the results you've experienced are the result.
If you want a confirmation of a failed model, load it into free Meshmixer, run Analysis/Inspector and expect a "pincushion" of highlighted failures.
> 5 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, 3d-models, stl
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thread-11597 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11597 | Saving BL Touch settings | 2019-12-21T04:12:04.200 | # Question
Title: Saving BL Touch settings
I have an Ender 3 Pro with a BL Touch.
In my G-code should I add an `M500` after the `G29`, to save the results to the EEPROM? I know storage size is an issue, so does storing these results cause an issue?
I believe the saved results can be activated before the next print using: `M420 S1`
If I do, does that mean I just auto home (`G28`) but don’t need to run a `G29` until I think the bed has lost its level?
I was trying to clarify this after reading: BL Touch Probing Fails Intermittently
# Answer
From this source you can read:
> After a G29 the leveling data is only stored in RAM. You have to use M500 to save the bed leveling data to EEPROM, otherwise the data will be lost when you restart (or reconnect) the printer. Use M502 to reset the bed leveling data (and other settings to defaults). Use M501 to reload your last-saved bed leveling from EEPROM. This is done automatically on reboot.
The source also answers the use of `M420 S1`:
> After a G29 bed leveling is automatically enabled, but in all other situations you must use M420 S1 to enable bed leveling. It is essential to include the command M420 S1 in the “Start G-code” in your slicer settings. If you have no bed leveling, or if there is no leveling data, then this command is simply ignored.
So, if you're not using a `G29` in your start code you must use the G-code `M420 S1` to enable the stored mesh from memory.
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, g-code, bltouch
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thread-11602 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11602 | How to use a 3.8V stepper with Marlin / RAMPS? | 2019-12-21T19:02:18.363 | # Question
Title: How to use a 3.8V stepper with Marlin / RAMPS?
I recently purchased a small stepper motor with a hollow shaft, without realizing it ran at 3.8V. I'm looking for the easiest way to integrate it with the ecosystem around the 12V steppers used in 3d printing, including control by Marlin firmware, and also compatibility with mainstream printer boards.
The rated specs are as follows:
```
2 phase 4 wires
1.8 step angle
Rated Voltage: 3.8V
Rated Current: 0.8A
Body Length: 30mm
Shaft Diameter: 5mm
```
I have only A4988 drivers, and I was under the impression that those drivers could only work at 12V. I have two spare DC-DC buck converters that could drop a 12V output from something to 3.8V. But I'm not sure what wires to do that for.
I know that motors have "A" and "B" coils for movement. Do I just use two DC-DC bucks off an A4988 driver to power this thing? So, after the output from the A4988 driver, I would connect 1A and 1B to IN+ and IN- on the DC-DC buck, and 2A 2B on IN+ IN- on the second DC-DC buck.
Is there a better way to integrate this motor into an existing 3D printer board based on RAMPS? I'm using MKS Gen and MKS Sgen boards
Using the pins *before* the driver might not be such a good idea if 800 mA is needed to run the printer. I don't know whether those pins connect to 12V or to the microcontroller output.
# Answer
> 3 votes
The 3.8 V rating does not mean what you think it does. "Rated voltage" has a very specific technical meaning. For a 3D stepper motor to work properly, the rated voltage of the stepper motors actually needs to be significantly lower than the supply voltage of the stepper drivers.
These steppers are perfectly compatible with a standard 12V RAMPS setup with A4988 system. You do not need to and should not mess around with buck converters. All you need to do is adjust the potentiometer on your stepper drivers to limit the current to at most 0.8 A.
The rated voltage in some sense refers to the *average* voltage the stepper motor should see, but to actually run them at reasonable speeds you need to supply short bursts of higher voltage. A stepper driver and motor actually form a sort of buck converter themselves, and in some sense do the conversion from 12V to the rated voltage for you.
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Tags: motor
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thread-11608 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11608 | Brand new Ender 3 does not extrude any filament during printing | 2019-12-22T15:39:15.720 | # Question
Title: Brand new Ender 3 does not extrude any filament during printing
I bought an Ender 3 two days ago and assembled it today. I think I did it properly, tested the movement of all axes which works for all axes. Then I performed the calibration as described in the manual. I used a piece of paper and adjusted the bed until it barely fits underneath the nozzle for all four corners. Afterwards, I wanted to print my first model so I selected the cat from the usb stick which came with printer. And now comes my problem. I let the printer run for 15 minutes. It moved and moved and moved but there was no filament on the bed. The nozzle and bed were heated properly. The one thing which I noticed was that the stepper which feeds the filament turns for like 30° and then flips back: to me it looks like the filament can not be fed in. After canceling the print the extruder moves back to the home position which is like 5 mm off the bed and then suddenly the filament flows out of the nozzle.
What part of the configuration I'm missing?
# Answer
> 5 votes
I am a fairly new user of an Ender 3 and had similar issues on a couple of occasions.
The main reason was as @0scar suggested - the nozzle was too close to the build plate preventing the filament from exiting - and the back-pressure was causing the filament to jump back, giving the extruder a "shudder" as it slips on the filament. Lower your build plate as suggested by @0scar. The paper should only just drag.
The fact that filament oozes after the hot end/print heads moves to home suggests you don't have a blockage... but you will if you don't adjust this.
It is better to have the nozzle slightly too high, so the first level does not stick and gradually raise the bed up while you are running the test patterns. Only turn the adjustment knob about 1/8 of a turn before checking - you are dealing in tenths of a millimeter here. Also remember that changing the front setting is going to change the back settings too because the plate will tilt.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I use Cura on my Anycubic Chiron which I encountered a similar problem with and I was able to resolve the issue by preheating the nozzle to a higher temp. I would test the nozzle and make sure it is feeding properly. What I mean by that is load the filament manually and make sure it comes out. Reason I say this is because the other issue you may be running into is either the nozzle is clogged or it may be too close to the bed for it to come out of the nozzle. This is all speculation but hopefully it helps.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The stepper motor turning back is retraction. It is a normals process for 3D printers. I suggest you check that the filament is able to extrude at all.
1. Using the control panel, go to prep then move axis and move the nozzle up(I forget which axis)
2. Heat the nozzel up to 200 degrees.
3. Push filament through the nozzel by hand and see if it extrudes.
If not, check that the nozzel is unblocked. To unblock the nozzel get a thin needle and clear the hole while still hot. Unless u have a nozzel cleaning tool.
If it is not blocked the filament may need changing.
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Tags: filament, creality-ender-3
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thread-11160 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11160 | Combining multiple STL files | 2019-10-13T14:54:44.200 | # Question
Title: Combining multiple STL files
I have a collection of STL files, each containing a separate moving part of an object I want to print. (Imagine a set of gears, or similar, that prints as a single object with multiple moving parts.)
My plan was to import them all into Cura, then hit print, then take my fully assembled object off the build plate. However, Cura ignores the coordinate system in the STL files and automatically separates the components from each other on the build plate. This is usually helpful, but it isn't what I want in this case.
So I'm looking for a quick and simple way to combine my multiple STL files into a single STL file. I know that the objects don't overlap, so I don't need to do a CSG union operation - it's enough just to concatenate the objects.
I tried OpenSCAD, which works, but it takes a really long time, because the meshes are fairly complex and it does the full Boolean operation. Is there another quick and simple way to perform this task?
I'd prefer a command line utility, but I'd also be happy if there's a quick and simple way to do it in some free graphical software. (However, I don't want to spend time manually positioning the objects - they're already in the right places in the STL files, so I just want to import them and go.)
**Edit** I've accepted Trish's answer (use Blender), but I'd still appreciate a command-line option if anyone knows one.
# Answer
> 3 votes
What you try to do is called "Print in Place". However, it is not done by importing several STLs one after another as cura does remove the origin and recenters each imported object upon importing. However, an STL file can contain more than one body.
To generate a PiP model, you need to export your whole project as **one** STL file containing all the parts and then Cura not only doesn't rip the model apart, it *can't* do so.
## Workaround
If you can't export the whole project in one piece from your design software, you could use a workaround by importing it into a software that can export as one item. Among these is blender, so importing all the parts into blender and then exporting the whole project as one STL is a simple fix. Other options would be TinkerCAD or Fusion360.
The Step by step guide for blender is simple and the general idea of this workflow is the same for other options:
1. Open blender
2. New project
3. delete the cube via `entf` \+ `enter`
4. Get the files into the workspace via either:
* Drag & Drop
1. `File > Import > Stl (.stl)`
2. select the file + `enter`
5. Possibly reposition the object, till it is in the right position
6. Repeat 4. to 6. till all parts are imported
7. `File > Export > Stl (.stl)` \+ `enter`
# Answer
> 6 votes
The operation you want is *almost* just cat'ing the files together. However you need to remove the 80 byte header from all but the first, and add up the 32-bit triangle count from each file immediately after that. Output should be:
1. Copy of first 80 bytes of file 1
2. Sum of int32 from offset 80 of each file.
3. Bytes 84-end from each file.
See https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL\_(file\_format)
# Answer
> 4 votes
Similarly to @R..'s answer, you can easily concatenate the contents of each file if you have ASCII .stls.
1. Make sure the .stls are in ASCII format: Open them in any text editor (like Notepad++). If it's readable, you're fine, proceed to (3)
2. If not readable, convert them to ASCII .stl format using a converter tool (like this)
3. Open each ASCII .stl file
4. Copy together the contents of the files, except for the "solid" and "endsolid" statements where the files meet
# Answer
> 1 votes
Import them to Tinkercad and then output your combined file from there. You can go into Tinkercad and on the top right side you will see "import", click that to import your file (you can repeat the process as desired) and it will put the files on the workspace .. on the screen. When you have your workspace all set the way you want select them all the click "export" and it will export all of them to one file for your use.
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Tags: 3d-models, software, stl
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thread-11612 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11612 | Z-Axis raising and dropping substantially during print knocking print off | 2019-12-23T13:39:19.337 | # Question
Title: Z-Axis raising and dropping substantially during print knocking print off
I've had my Creality Ender 3 Pro since October 2019. It was running like a dream until about a month ago. The Z-axis started knocking prints off the plate during printing. I've changed mats and worked on adhesion issues. I've switched to a glass plate and triple checked that it is level. I checked to see if it was binding but honestly I couldn't tell.
I'm at a loss of what to do to troubleshoot and fix the issue. Any suggestions?
It homes fine and manual controls work fine with no issues.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Can you send a link to a short video of the problem occuring? It might be because of multiple factors but we will be able to identify if there's a video of it.
Possible reasons:
* Z axis nut might be too tight. This would cause the nut to bind with the leadscrew and so the motor will not be able to lift the z-axis further while printing.
* Not enough retraction. This would cause filament to ooze from the nozzle during travel moves and this filament would collide with the printed object, causing it to be knocked off. A possible solution for this would be to enable Z-hop in the slider, have the hop distance set to at least 1.5x the layer height you are currently printing with.
* Too small of a contact area. This usually happens more often for tall prints. A solution would be to increase brim in the slicer settings (at least 10~15 lines) to increase the adhesion of the print and the bed.
* Dirty nozzle. Old prints filament may be stuck on the outer face of the nozzle and might be catching onto the printed part while printing.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting
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thread-11622 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11622 | Bowden setup keeps jamming between PTFE tube and heatsink | 2019-12-24T08:22:38.567 | # Question
Title: Bowden setup keeps jamming between PTFE tube and heatsink
I keep getting a jam where the PTFE tube meets the top of the v6 hot end. I have the PTFE tube all the away in but for some reason it gets a bulge at that spot and will stop printing. It happens with or without retraction. Any ideas?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Filament sometimes get stuck on the rim of the PTFE tubes inside the heat sink. Josef Prusa from Prusa Research has published a document on how you should chamfer the PTFE tubes for his printers:
Maybe chamfering your tubes works for you too.
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Tags: bowden, e3d-v6
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thread-11576 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11576 | Help needed to design 3D printer part | 2019-12-17T22:07:17.777 | # Question
Title: Help needed to design 3D printer part
I am attempting to build a 3D printer using the Bear Upgrade for guidance.
However, I want to modify some of the parts. I am basing the modified parts on the original designs.
I would like to understand the reason behind some design details presented on the original designs so that, if necessary, introduce them into the new designs.
Item 1) The holes are not round. Why???
Item 2 ) There are some little squares inside the piece which i don't know if they are there for some structural reason
Please use this link to the piece depicted above.
Here is a drawing of the full assembly, showing that this piece is the y axes linear rods holder:
# Answer
> Item 1) The holes are not round. Why???
Two things about this. First, the print is upside down. The holes are not round to accommodate the fact you cannot print a round hole unsupported. If you try to print the circle unsupported, when you get to the top portion, it will sag until the print catches up to it. By that time, the circle is flat at the top and you won't be able to fit whatever you were trying to fit into it (without some post processing). Printing the V-ish looking part at the top will ensure you'll be able fit things through it you meant to fit through (sorry if that's redundant). If you'd like to know more, take a look at the following Maker's Muse video:
> Item 2 ) There are some little squares inside the piece which i don't know if they are there for some structural reason
To be very honest with you, I don't know why the little squares are there either, however, I believe you can answer this part for yourself.
I think the answer lies in the part, meaning, if you can manipulate the 3d design in whatever you're using to design it, you can look into the part and see what's going on with it. It appears there are dashed lines in the center parts, which would make me believe these are *hidden lines*. There is a feature there which is *inside* of the part which you cannot see otherwise. By turning it, you should be able to decipher what these features are for and therefore should be able to discern what the small squares a for as well. If, after you've looked the part over completely you cannot discern a purpose for the squares, don't design them into your part. It may just be they are an artifact of the design itself and doesn't provide anything worth repeating in your own design. Bottom line, don't get hung up on the minute details which in the end don't mean a thing.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Teardrop shape ere is a feature there which is inside of the part which you cannot see otherwise. By turning it, you should be able to decipher what these features are for and therefore should be able to
> 0 votes
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Tags: 3d-design, diy-3d-printer, fusion360
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thread-11497 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11497 | Octopi connecting just once to wifi | 2019-12-08T11:33:57.167 | # Question
Title: Octopi connecting just once to wifi
Just starting with octoprint.
* Bought a pi3A+,
* Etched a 4Go micro sd card with the latest octopi distro (0.17.0)
* Using a 5V bench power supply that delivers up to 10A.
* Following official octopi instructions
I managed to connect once my pi to the wifi, configured it, but as soon as I reboot my pi, it won't connect to the wifi again.
Any hints?
Nothing helped me in the wifi troobleshooting FAQ.
I thought that I changed a particular config but :
* without configuration change, I:
+ started the pi once
+ waited until the pi connects to the wifi
+ successfully pinged the pi via my PC
+ rebooted the pi
+ a new ping wouldn't work
* I compared the files on the boot partition and only this changed:
+ freshly etched sd card:
- cmdline.txt:
- `console=serial0,115200 console=tty1 root=PARTUUID=6c586e13-02 rootfstype=ext4 elevator=deadline fsck.repair=yes rootwait quiet init=/usr/lib/raspi-config/init_resize.sh`
+ card from rebooted device:
- cmdline.txt:
- `console=serial0,115200 console=tty1 root=PARTUUID=6c586e13-02 rootfstype=ext4 elevator=deadline fsck.repair=yes rootwait`
there is no more differences.
# Answer
> 0 votes
What worked for me:
* changed SD card from 2 GB to 16 GB (do not need so much)
* power the pi with 5.4 V instead of 5 - 5.1 V
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Tags: octoprint, wi-fi
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thread-11646 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11646 | E3D V6 nozzle seized into heater block | 2019-12-31T15:05:32.257 | # Question
Title: E3D V6 nozzle seized into heater block
The 0.4 mm brass nozzle in my Prusa i3 MK3 is worn out - the extrusion hole is visibly larger than the replacement nozzles I have to fit. So I’m trying to replace the nozzle.
Unfortunately the nozzle seems to be stuck in the heater block. So far I’ve tried:
1. Heating the hotend up to 285 °C, rotating the heater block slightly and trying to unscrew the nozzle with a wrench. (I exactly followed the Prusa YouTube video on changing nozzles).
2. Leaving the hotend at 285 °C for 15 minutes and trying again - I found some other reports online this had helped. However it made no difference in my case.
In an effort to try and remove the nozzle from the heaterblock, I’ve now accidentally bent the heatbreak, so I’m going to have to replace some or all of hotend. But I need to get the nozzle out, so I know which parts to order - if the nozzle breaks off in the heater block I’m definitely going to need a new heater block as well.
What else can I try to free a seized nozzle?
This is the original factory-fitted brass nozzle, and the hot-end was pre-assembled in the kit I received.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Try to,
First, remove the heat block from the extruder/heat sink. Heat the hot end to ~ 230 'C. Then try to unscrew the nozzle while holding the heat block with a wrench or plier. **Be extra careful** with the heat block and with the plier.
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Tags: prusa-i3, nozzle, maintenance, e3d-v6
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thread-11655 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11655 | Replacing jerk with ridiculously high acceleration? | 2020-01-02T04:37:11.977 | # Question
Title: Replacing jerk with ridiculously high acceleration?
After a string of one problem after another with both classic jerk and junction deviation in Marlin, and coming to understand that the whole mathematical model for both of them is rather bogus (as I understand it, there's nothing to keep jerk from junctions of multiple tiny segments from accumulating to unbounded near-instantaneous chage in velocity), I kinda want to just disable jerk entirely (set it to zero). But of course this would give really slow printing.
What I'm wondering, though, is if it makes sense (and if so, how) to try to compute and use an acceleration value sufficiently high to achieve what jerk was trying to achieve, without it.
Mechanically, if a printer can handle a given jerk without skipping steps or harmful vibration, it should be able to handle acceleration high enough to achieve exactly the same stepping at corners/junctions. However, perhaps acceleration limits also involve current to the motors, heat dissipation at the motors/stepper drivers, or other factors that make "instantaneous" extreme acceleration okay but sustained extreme acceleration bad. (Of course, without extreme max speeds, extreme acceleration should only take place momentarily, in some sense proportional to as much a jerk takes effect.)
Am I crazy for thinking about doing this? If not, what would be a good model for determining the appropriate acceleration to try?
# Answer
In order to evaluate whether this is possible, it's necessary to realize that following a curved path with **zero** jerk (in the classic jerk sense) requires stopping and restarting at each junction point in the piecewise-linear approximation of the curve that occurs in the gcode. This is because there's no way to accelerate/decelerate the individual axes continuously through a non-smooth corner. So paradoxically, as the number of segments approximating a curve goes to infinity, speed goes to zero. If the length of any one segment is bounded below by a constant, then acceleration can be chosen high enough to ensure that arbitrarily close to 100% of the segment is at full nominal speed. For example, for a minimum length of 0.1 mm, speed of 60 mm/s, reaching speed in 10% of the nominal segment time (1.6 ms) would take an acceleration of 360000 mm/s². So, not happening.
On the other hand, with very low but nonzero (classic) jerk, just to handle the matter of smooth curves approximated by small segments, this might be practical. Just looking at 90 degree cornering between segments long enough to run at nominal speed, to match the time spent cornering with 60 mm/s speed, 20 mm/s jerk, and 3000 mm/s² acceleration, it should only take 4500 mm/s² acceleration (original, scaled by 60/(60-20) to account for having to decelerate/accelerate to/from 0 instead of 20). This is completely reasonable.
How small can jerk be without breaking motion for approximations of smooth curves? As the number of segments approaches infinity, the lower bound should go to zero. For a circle approximated with 15° steps, one component of the change in velocity looks like it can be around 25%, so "25% of nominal speed" seems to be what you get. Oops. For 60 mm/s, that's 15 mm/s. Not very low at all. I may have gotten this math wrong; I'll review it later. But it doesn't look good for declaring this practical.
> 1 votes
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Tags: marlin, speed, acceleration
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thread-7831 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7831 | How to remove exess filament from bed after removing model | 2018-12-31T00:30:06.857 | # Question
Title: How to remove exess filament from bed after removing model
Recently got an Anycubic I3 Mega Printer and I've been playing with what it can do, but after a model is done it leaves residue on the build plate behind that is bugging me. Do I NEED to remove it? If so, how? Thanks! (I'm using PLA if that matters)
My Problem:
# Answer
> 3 votes
You should remove it because it can and will affect the quality of future prints. Residue can mix up with new filament and create a ugly of colors and also prevent adhesion in places, thus potentially ruining your next print.
You have several solutions to clean up the bed:
* Scrape it off: usually works, but you risk chipping the surface if you're not careful or if you stumble upon a bit of residue that is stubborn and you need to apply strength to get rid of it. I think a scraper is included with the printer.
* Sponge and soap: Since the bed cannot be removed, as far as I can tell, you'll need to make sure that the sponge isn't dripping or put towel paper around to avoid damaging the components below, including the heating unit. Rub it gently on the residue until it soften and detaches. It might take a bit to work.
* Yellow glass cleaner from Karcher: my favourite, the one I use on my printer and it never failed me. Spray it on a cloth or something, and rub it on the bed until the residue softens and detaches. It might take a bit to work, but you don't run the risk of dripping liquid on any component, and it works way better than soap and without the risk of chipping the bed like when you use a scraper.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I have had moderate success with a product called Goo Gone (don't laugh). It quite remarkably lifts off any number of "sticky" items from various surfaces.
I work with PLA filament that is very hard and stubborn to remove from any surface.
I own a FlashForge Adventurer 3 that appears to have a carbon fiber build plate. Nothing, except a #11 XActo blade, can harm that.
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Tags: pla, heated-bed, post-processing
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thread-11659 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11659 | Lines appearing during ironing | 2020-01-02T18:36:29.700 | # Question
Title: Lines appearing during ironing
I'm new to 3D printing, but have been having relative success with the Ender 5 Pro and Cura.
I'm making some coasters and using the ironing feature to smooth out the top layer. This is mostly working great, but there are lines left on the surface, consistent between identical prints. They appear to be seams between different ironed areas. They form when one continuously ironed area finishes, the nozzle leaves that area, then an adjacent area is ironed later, forming a seam between them.
I'm using the default ironing settings, on only the top layer. I have no clue what settings might be causing this, or if this is an avoidable issue.
Any ideas from more experienced printers?
# Answer
There's a couple of Cura settings that can help, that I know of:
* In the 'Travel' section, change "Combing Mode" to "not in skin". Combing means it tries to move the head over areas that have already been printed. This is a good thing most of the time, but if it does it while it's ironing, it will make an annoying line. (I am not sure why this isn't automatically turned off for the ironing pass, but it seems it isn't.)
* After enabling ironing, an option "Ironing Pattern" appears. Try changing this to "concentric." This produces a different pattern, which you may or may not like, but it seems less susceptible to those kinds of lines appearing.
Here are some other settings that might help. I'm suggesting these on the assumption that some of the lines are caused by the print head travelling over the ironed surface, which is what it looks like to me from your photo. I got them from this Cura documentation page, but it doesn't mention ironing, so I can't be completely sure whether they will affect the ironing step.
* "Avoid printed parts when travelling" - this might help a bit more than just turning off combing, since it will try to go around the printed areas instead of just cutting across them. Apparently you have to *enable* combing for this to work.
* "Z hop when retracted" and "Z hop only over printed parts." This should make it lift the print head up when it can't avoid crossing the printed part. It may be that you have to enable retraction, combing, and/or "Avoid printed parts when travelling" for these to appear.
> 2 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-5
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thread-11658 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11658 | Does having more curvier corners help warping more then smaller curves | 2020-01-02T17:08:24.880 | # Question
Title: Does having more curvier corners help warping more then smaller curves
I was experimenting with building an enclosure using fusion 360.
I was wondering if a part with rounded corners of a larger radius would warp less than smaller ones?
Also, any recommendation on reading material would be appreciated!
# Answer
> 0 votes
In short, yes, it helps a little. Curves provide less surface area per unit volume (a sphere has the least possible surface area relative to the volume of the solid), and that reduces the rate at which the material in that corner will cool relative to elsewhere in the print, and also changes how the material can deform if and when it does cool unevenly. Uneven cooling of fine features, including sharp corners, is what causes warpage, as these areas typically cool faster than others. The curve also helps with bed adhesion, as the more rounded corner is more easily kept down on the bed by the various forces within the object and in the bed adhesion. Sharper corners depend more on the surface area under the corner itself to keep the piece properly stuck to the bed.
However, it's not a panacea. It's not always possible, for one; it's usually an option when CADing a "green field" design for a household item or other standalone product, but if you're making a replacement part for an existing device, or printing a figurine or other detailed model, you usually have to take the curves (and edges) that design gives you. Also, if you radius an outer edge of a hollow shape, but don't radius the inner corner to keep the material thickness constant, you'll end up with similar cooling problems as the apex of that edge cools fastest.
Strategies for avoiding warping are along a couple common lines, but exactly how you implement that strategy depends on the material and on the printer. One overarching strategy is to increase print surface adhesion; the stronger the part sticks to the bed everywhere on its first layer, the harder it will be for corners to lift. Exact techniques depend on the print material, but many of them, like blue painter's tape, Elmer's glue and hairspray, work well for several filament types. Adjusting the printed shape, to print a brim around the shape's base or even a raft under the entire object, are also common anti-warping strategies. The tradeoff is that the stronger the bed adhesion, the harder the part will be to remove from the build surface when complete, which depending on your print bed construction can cause more problems than the warping.
Blue tape is nice because it's cheap to buy and easy to apply to the bed surface, both of which mean you don't have to worry too much about damaging the tape as you remove the part, just strip the tape and put down another layer. But, it doesn't work for all filament materials; the only thing I've found that really works well for ABS, for instance, is kapton tape, which is significantly more expensive and takes a lot of effort to lay down a wrinkle-free, bubble-free layer over the entire print bed for a large part (especially on my MakerBot, which doesn't have a removable build surface on it, so I'm laying this tape down in cramped quarters within the printer enclosure). A glass surface painted with ABS slurry is an option I've not yet had opportunity to try for ABS printing, but plenty of people swear by it.
Cooling, especially uneven cooling rates, are another major contributor, but again, exactly how you deal with cooling depends on the material. Most plastics, especially PLA, tend to work best when you keep things as cool as possible; the coolest extruder temp that reliably feeds fil, the coolest bed temp that reliably sticks, part cooling fan turned up, and even a standing or box fan blowing through the entire work area to put as much air over the part as possible. What this does is to get the PLA down onto the print surface as a hot "putty", then immediately "freeze" that bead of plastic as a solid as the heat's removed, so the bead can't shrink as it cools more gradually.
Now, with ABS, this cooling strategy doesn't work, and in fact it's the *worst* thing you can do to an ABS print. The material is much more elastic than PLA, which is quite brittle, and has no true melting temperature, with a very hot glass transition temp. So, as it's laid down, the extruded beads quickly put the part under elastic tension as it cools. Shrinkage is a fact of life with ABS; the only thing you can do is to control the shrinkage by controlling the part cooling, so the part cools and shrinks evenly. ABS calls for a hot print bed for good adhesion, which will keep the first few layers warmer longer, but higher layers of the print will be further from that heat source, so if there's air moving over or within the work volume, these higher layers will cool more rapidly, at which point it really doesn't matter how good your surface adhesion is (I've seen prints split halfway up the model to relieve the tension by warping). So for ABS, a heat enclosure is pretty much a must. My MakerBot is built that way (in fact it's designed for ABS printing and works better with ABS than with PLA, which is supposed to be the more user-friendly material of the two), but most of your open-gantry RepRap-type designs will need something built around it, usually with a separate heating element to heat the work volume more than the bed is capable of doing.
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Tags: 3d-models, fusion360
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thread-11300 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11300 | Random lines are being printed? | 2019-11-05T23:13:15.840 | # Question
Title: Random lines are being printed?
I recently got a Creality Ender-3, and tried printing a few things for some tests. I’ve printed a cube and just printed a cylindrical tube today, and I notice each time, it adds this random line on the left and a sort of outline around the actual print. Neither of these were there in my Cura file, but they’re always printed and I’m not sure why?
# Answer
If the printer is printing, it is instructed to do so by the G-code file unless you are printing through an external software program that has extra G-code to print before your print starts. E.g. in OctoPrint print server it is possible to execute G-code before the print starts.
## Left line = Priming
The **straight line on the left** is typically **used to prime the printer nozzle to get the filament flow starting**, this is typically seen in PrusaSlicer (Prusa's fork of Open Source toolpath generator for 3D printers Slic3r). ***This straight line is called priming line, purge line or intro line***, and is typically (but not necessarily) printed outside or at the edge of the bed area. Furthermore, a prime line print routine will catch errant nozzle ooze, test extrusion (it is the first indication if the nozzle to bed distance is correct; if not you can abort with minimal material loss) and perform a final wipe action to avoid stringing between the prime line and start of the print. Note that this straight prime line is not a standard option in a *custom* profile of Cura, so this was part of the Ender-3 Preset you imported or possibly you have copied a starting G-code that includes this prime line.
A typical set of G-code lines to create a prime/purge/intro line is found in your start G-code and could look similar to:
```
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G92 E0.0
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0
```
After slicing your object, you will find such lines in the generated G-code file, but they are not displayed in the preview. Further information can be found in Writing G-code : swiping at start of print
## Equidistant line = Skirt
The **lines at distance from the print** object **is called the "skirt"**, the skirt is an option found under the "Build Plate Adhesion" options in your slicer. The function of the skirt is similar as described for the straight prime line, but it has additional effects that can be wanted. It also shows fairly fast if the bed is unleveled as a whole or if the bed is greasy. Please look into: "What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims? ".
Note that it is usually superfluous to use both the prime/purge/intro line and the skirt, both have a similar function. The benefit of the skirt is that you can configure it within the slicer (e.g. length of the printed skirt, height to use as a shield for draft or ooze and distance to product). The downside is, that a skirt limits the useable build area by the distance and width of the skirt.
> 5 votes
# Answer
The outline around the actual print is called **Skirts**. and the random line on the left is called **intro line** it's not necessary you need both Skirt and intro line. The intro line can disable from custom starting gcode settings
A skirt is an outline that surrounds your part but does not touch the part. The skirt is extruded on the print bed before starting to print your model. Skirts serve a useful purpose because they help **prime your extruder and establish a smooth flow of filament**. Observing the skirt also allows you to **detect and adjust any leveling or adhesion issues** before the actual model begins printing.
You can easily edit/disable(not recommended) those settings in Cura (or in any slicing software) In you Cura navigate to **Build Plate Adhesion** settings
* **Skirt line count:** The number of skirt lines printed around the model.
* **Skirt distance:** The distance between the model and the skirt.
* **Skirt minimum length:** The total length of the skirt. This will override the skirt line count when the minimum length is not reached yet.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I also have the Ender 3 (pro) and have been getting annoyed by the intro line / priming line on the left of the print area, since I find it difficult to clean off the print bed. I've now found a way to disable it. In general I have found that the skirt is enough to prime the extruder, so the intro line doesn't really appear to be necessary (from what I've seen so far). Although for very small prints the skirt might not be big enough to fully prime the extruder (but this hasn't been the case for anything I've printed so far).
The intro/priming line is part of the "Start G-Code" in the Ender 3 profile in Cura (I'm using version 4.4). Here's how you can disable it:
* From the Settings menu, select "Printer" and then "Manage Printers".
* Click the "Machine Settings" button.
* Expand the window under "Start G-code".
Find the following 3 lines of G-code:
```
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
```
Add a `//` to the start of each line to comment it out (so the printer will ignore it)
> 3 votes
# Answer
These are features, not bugs.
The line off to the left is the "priming line"; the printer is extruding a bead of material to ensure that any oozing is cleaned off of the filament tip, and that the filament is properly pressed into the hotend and flowing consistently from the nozzle, before beginning your print. Notice how plastic didn't start extruding on the "backstroke" until the extruder had almost reached the back of the plate? If you didn't have that priming line, that material would have been missing from your print's first layer.
The ring around your print is the "skirt". The skirt also helps to prime the extruder, and allows you a quick look at your first layer printing behavior before the printer begins printing your actual part. Is your build plate level? Is the nozzle clearance correct? Is the filament adhering well to your bed prep? Are your build plate size and offsets set up properly in the slicer (or are you about to try to print off the edge of your plate)? A skirt can help you determine all these things very quickly, like before the printer starts working over the actual print area, giving you a chance to correct them on-the-fly or at least quickly cancel the print, and it uses a minimum of material to do so compared to a more substantial plate adhesion aid like a brim or raft.
You can disable or alter the behavior of both of these in your slicer software; exactly how depends on the slicer software.
In Ultimaker's Cura, which comes fairly highly recommended for use with Creality printers like the Ender 3, the priming line is part of the pre-print configuration script in the printer settings, and you'll need to have a working knowledge of GCode to mess with that. GCode isn't terribly difficult, but it was designed for computers to generate more than for humans to comprehend, and incorrect GCode commands in this section can cause printer firmware errors, failed prints and can even damage your printer.
The skirt settings are part of the slicer settings for your specific print, under the "Platform Adhesion" section. You can typically choose to print a skirt, a brim (similar concept but it extends all the way in to the outline of the part's first layer, and helps hold the part on the plate while it prints), a raft (a more complex adhesion aid where the printer will lay down several layers of material as a foundation for the actual print), or nothing at all. You can also customize the settings of each of these to create a larger or smaller skirt or brim.
Personally, I keep both of these print features enabled for almost all prints on my Ender 3 Pro; the only time I disable the skirt is either when I want a brim (small parts like 3DBenchies print more reliably with a brim) or when the skirt just won't fit on the build plate (which usually means the part has a large enough footprint not to go anywhere during the print), and the only time I mess with the priming line is when I need that area of the build plate for the actual print. These features cost you maybe a penny or two in filament and can save you far more than that in frustration and wasted plastic on failed or imperfect prints.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3
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thread-11669 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11669 | Drift and stuttering on prints | 2020-01-03T22:29:59.847 | # Question
Title: Drift and stuttering on prints
I stopped using my Monoprice Maker Ultimate (re-branded Wanahao Duplicator 6) for a couple of weeks and am getting a seemingly random drift with all my prints now when re-attempting printing.
I also noticed a weird stutter when the extruder moves. It is particularly bad in one specific direction on the X-axis but is noticeable for all movement in the XY plane.
I have read online that this could be caused by voltage issues.
I have also read that it could be caused by over-tightened XY bearings but, given that it is happening in all directions, I am leaning more towards voltage issues.
Not sure if the drift and stuttering are related (I'd imagine they must be, but have no way of confirming). Would anyone be able to help provide troubleshooting steps for this as I am still very new to 3d printing?
I have provided a photo of what the drift looks like for this test model. I can provide more information if necessary. Thank you
# Answer
I shook off my laziness and disassembled the mounts holding the stepper motors and tightened the belts. After doing so the drift was resolved.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: desktop-printer, y-axis, axis, monoprice-maker-ultimate, x-axis
--- |
thread-3134 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3134 | Extruder stepper motor problem, what can be wrong? | 2016-12-04T00:02:37.340 | # Question
Title: Extruder stepper motor problem, what can be wrong?
I bought a self-made Reprap Prusa Mendel 3 printer, modified to be built from cheaper materials, and immediately after the deal I got various problems. I fixed the majority of them, but don't know what the reason of the strange extruder behavior is: The stepper motor is not rotating while extruding filament, it's moving back and forth with small steps instead. I made some footage, Reprap Prusa Mendel 3d printer extruder problem, hoping that someone has met a similar problem before.
If so, please tell me what to do to make it work as it should.
The obvious option while encountering this problem was to slacken the bolt which holds this parts together (in the left bottom corner of the video), but that did not help.
Any ideas are very welcomed. Thanks for your time. I hope this is an appropriate kind of question here.
# Answer
> 7 votes
Your controller board probably requires calibration.
It sounds like, maybe, the extruder's stepper motor is *not receiving sufficient* current, to make it turn. **Or**, somewhat confusingly, maybe the stepper is *receiving too much current*, and overheating.
You don't say which controller board you are using, but regardless, there should be an adjustable potentiometer on the board, next to each of the stepper drivers, or on the stepper driver daughter boards. Like so,
This potentiomenter adjusts the *reference voltage* used to control the stepper motor. From this *reference voltage*, and the resistance of the stepper coils, one can determine the current, which is used to drive the stepper motor.
For the stepper driver of the extruder, you could try turning this adjustable potentiometer slightly, in order to provide more current to the stepper, in turn to provide *sufficient torque* such that the motor is able to turn. **Or**, less current to stop the stepper from overheating.
The adjustments *can* be made whilst the power is on, but a **non-ferrous** (i..e. plastic) screw driver should be used, so as to avoid short circuits. Also care needs to be taken, when turning the potentiometer, as they have been known to just fall apart whilst being turned. If you are paranoid, then make micro adjustments with the power turned off, and then turn back on to check the behaviour.
**Note**: it should go without saying that one should **never disconnect a stepper whilst the power is on**, as both the driver and the stepper motor may be irrevocably damaged.
---
The photo above is taken from POTs Calibration – RAMPS 1.4.
> If a POT is set too high then the associated stepper driver will tend to overheat and go into over-temperature thermal shutdown (to prevent damage to its components). The first sign of overheating is erratic stepper motor behavior. Typically, this can be recognized by the sounds of the stepper motor suddenly losing power (thermal shutdown). If no load or movement is required of the motor, it is hard to detect whether it is over-powered as the driver is barely producing any heat.
and
> Conversely, if the POT is set too low, the stepper motor can enter an underpowered state. This can be recognized by a lack of holding torque and a stepper motor that is skipping steps because the necessary movement requires a higher power demand than the POT setting allows for.
---
### Driver cooling
In addition to the possibility of the stepper motor over heating, it could be possible that the stepper driver is overheating, although the symptoms may be different, to those that you are experiencing. Regardless, you may still find it advantageous to cooler the controller/driver board with a fan that is always on (not temperature controlled).
### Additional reading
* RigidWiki - Stepper Driver Adjustment, which goes into further detail about the adjustment of the potentiometers, that I outlined above, as well as the *reference voltage* and the adjustment thereof.
* RepRap Wiki - RepRapPro Setting Motor Currents describes a different controller to yours, but goes into the process of adjustment, and description of the *reference voltage* (which is applicable to all boards):
> The wiper on each potentiometer generates a DC voltage that is sent to the chip. This is the reference voltage; it defines how much current the stepping motor driver chip supplies to the motor. The bigger the reference voltage (VREF), the higher the current (A) that the chip will send to the motor. For most NEMA14 motors, the current maximum is 1A, but this will generally cause it to get warm, so a setting of 750mA is recommended. For NEMA17 motors, depending on size, the limit on current is generally between 1.3A and 1.7A. If you drive stepper motors with more current than they were designed for, the motor will get hot, and may be damaged.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I also faced similar problem. Mine was a self-made marlin/repetier. The problem was that the motor current was much less than the motor requirement and the axis were not calibrated properly. Giving recommended current according to your motor ratings and limiting your feedrate according to your calibration should work.
# Answer
> 2 votes
If the stepper **never** turns, even with no filament loaded, it is more likely to be a bad connection to one of the two coils or a bad stepper driver, or a bad motor.
Seems to be a frequent enough problem that they supplied a spare driver with my machine.
Perhaps you can try swapping drivers to see if the problem follows the driver. You can disconnect the motor with power off and measure the coil resistances with a multimeter to see if they are sensible, which will weed out a bad harness, connector or motor.
# Answer
> 2 votes
in my case there were random shifting and I found the motor is getting very warm .. so when I lowered the driver voltage it didn't get as warm and the skipping and shifting just stopped.
---
Tags: extruder, stepper
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thread-11677 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11677 | Bed size and nozzle homing offset in Marlin 1.1.9 firmware | 2020-01-04T21:15:45.583 | # Question
Title: Bed size and nozzle homing offset in Marlin 1.1.9 firmware
This is driving me up the wall, hope somebody can give me some advice...
I have an Anet A8 (metal frame, so 'AM8'). Bed is the original 220x220 mm. When the nozzle is at the X/Y end stops it is positioned 16 mm 'west' away from the bed (in free space) in the x-axis, and 5 mm 'north'.
The problem I'm having is with the `X_BED_SIZE` (surely 220) and `X_MIN_POS` settings. I keep falling into either the nozzle home a long way from the center (should be 110,110), or getting a message about end stops being too narrow for the bed. Given my sizings above, what should the following be?:
```
// @section machine
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
# Answer
The original Anet A8 has:
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -33
#define Y_MIN_POS -10
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
So in your case it would be:
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -16
#define Y_MIN_POS -5
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
Tuning the bed to print exactly in the middle so that large prints fit on the build plate is described in question: "How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)".
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8, firmware, homing, bed
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thread-11679 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11679 | Wavy lines on 1st layer only | 2020-01-05T03:28:35.993 | # Question
Title: Wavy lines on 1st layer only
I'm getting wavy lines on the first layer only in both the x and y direction identically. The first layer is 0.4 mm with a 0.4 mm tip. The other layers are 0.2 mm. I've tried changing the Z offset all the way from -1.2 to 0.5 mm. I've tried changing the hot end leveling the heated bed. None of these changes affected the wavy lines. The waves have about a 1 mm period. The printer is a German RipRap. The material is ABS. The heated bed is 110 °C. I've tried the hot end at 220 °C and 240 °C. So far, nothing has changed the waves.
# Answer
You have a too thick layer: to get straight lines, the plastic has to be squished together to some degree as it is pushed out of the nozzle. The result is a shape similar to a circle with the top and bottom cut. This works well until your layer thickness is more than 3 quarters of the nozzle diameter - above the "squishing" is practically nonexistent, and if you go above the nozzle diameter, there is almost no way to get the desired thickness out of the nozzle at all.
To aid in depositing the layers, it is *also* advised to demand a line width that is about 10 % larger than the nozzle diameter. As illustration, this is roughly what 0.4 mm extrusion width with 0.4 mm layer height (blue) and 0.45 mm extrusion width with 0.3 mm extrusion height (yellow) look like:
> 5 votes
# Answer
The general recommendation for layer height is to go no thicker than 75% of the nozzle diameter. Your post states 0.4 mm layer height with a 0.4 nozzle, exceeding the recommendation.
If your first layer is dropped to 0.3 mm, you'll fall into the recommendation, but the thickness is a reference for ALL layers.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, extrusion
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thread-11650 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11650 | Inductive Sensor Causes Print To Stop | 2019-12-31T21:11:24.947 | # Question
Title: Inductive Sensor Causes Print To Stop
Just added inductive sensor to my printer (`MKS Gen L Board`) using `Marlin 1.1.9` After some tweaking it works great! The problem is when it starts print the sensor detects the bed and stops the print because it gets triggered.
Can I tell Marlin to ignore the Z-min readings while printing?
# Answer
Solved the problem, I was missing this line:
```
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
```
Apparently the sensor required a pull-up to better define the signal.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, inductive-sensor
--- |
thread-11690 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11690 | How to slice a model to ensure at least a certain amount of filament per layer? | 2020-01-06T09:33:33.947 | # Question
Title: How to slice a model to ensure at least a certain amount of filament per layer?
I am designing a part with a material which can bear up to a certain stress.
To keep the stress within the design limits, I need to ensure a certain surface of solid material per layer, in other words a minimum amount of extruded filament per layer and a smoothly changing infill ratio so that the infill can transmit the load efficiently to the neighbouring layers.
The part has an irregular shape and I cannot simply increase the infill ratio for the whole object because the part is big and it would cost more time and filament. I also cannot build straight pillars of solid material inside the part because there are no regions which are suitable for a continuous pillar.
How can I calculate and apply a smoothly changing infill ratio or in general how to ensure that each layer is made of at least a certain amount of material?
I use Prusa Slicer for slicing and Fusion 360 for the design.
Related questions about variable infill, which however don't answer my question because I need to specify the amount of material and because I need a smoothly changing infill ratio:
Different infill in the same part
slic3r: Can I vary the infill percentage for different heights of my model?
# Answer
Very interesting idea! There may be a way to do this semi-automatically, but I believe it's not yet a part of any slicer.
My suggestion would be:
* Export file as .stl (Fusion 360)
* Use a DLP slicer to create images of the layers (CHITUBox)
* Calculate the area of each of the images (Matlab - I think?)
* Calculate the required infill percentages for having the same mass on each layer (Excel)
* Open the model in PrusaSlicer, create a single "height range modifier" (PrusaSlicer)
* Save the project as .3mf (PrusaSlicer)
* Extract the .3mf file (7 Zip)
* Create the neccessary "layer config ranges" texts for PrusaSlicer (Excel)
* Inject that text into an extrated .3mf file (Notepad++)
* Pack the .3mf file again (7 Zip)
* Slice the resulting file (PrusaSlicer)
> 0 votes
# Answer
I think you have a major XY problem. The amount of material per layer is not what determines the part strength. Unless additional material is placed in a manner that reinforces against the stress you're designing for, it's just wasted. Moreover, infill in particular is not terribly useful this way, as infill has to rest upon the support of existing infill below it. If you suddenly increase infill density at a particular layer, it will not provide any significant additional strength because the added lines will be unsupported and will not bond strongly to anything. Even the next layer above them, and the next after that for quite a few layers, will not bond well because the unsupported lines can just bend downward when the nozzle goes over them, rather than providing a surface for the newly deposited material to press firmly against and bond to.
Generally, infill is not your main source of part strength anyway. I would start out (especially if you can test; if this is a one-off thing, the material cost is not going to be an issue anyway and just go with overkill) by increasing the number of wall lines (wall thickness). Walls generally provide the most strength, and the amount of material used will be proportional to cross-sectional perimeter rather than area, which typically will vary "linearly" rather than "quadratically" (I use these terms loosely since I don't know right off how to make it rigorous - what the independent variable should be thought of as being). My usual default (and I believe Cura's) is 2 walls; I would expect 4-5 to be very strong, and as long as you keep at least 15-20% infill, probably stronger than what you'd get by any increase in infill percent.
> 2 votes
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Tags: slicing, infill
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thread-11691 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11691 | 3d scan matting spray | 2020-01-06T11:46:21.757 | # Question
Title: 3d scan matting spray
I want to scan a few ceramic items that are shiny and have multiple colors and found that using an artec 3d Spider that doesn't really work due to the shininess and thus want to use a matting spray or sth to be able to get proper results. Ideally sth without color that can be used on the ceramic items and allows to obtain proper texture results for the 3d model too. Any ideas?
# Answer
There are many variations of a product generically known as chalk spray. Some of them should be considered permanent or semi-permanent, while the Montana brand product explicitly states "temporary" in the description. There is a caveat in that it has to be a non-porous surface to be considered temporary.
The product is primarily directed at outside/sidewalk art which can be washed away or will wear away under normal traffic. As such, it is suited for matting shiny surfaces for scanning purposes. White is the best color for scanning as it will accept light and shadows better than the other choices.
I have a can of white and can attest that it will wash off. Some of the product will wipe off dry but the small crevices require washing, which should be considered when spraying your item.
The product is available at many online outlets and may be found at local art supply retailers.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models
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thread-11692 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11692 | Filament spreading apart and stringy on first layer | 2020-01-06T13:42:57.847 | # Question
Title: Filament spreading apart and stringy on first layer
I keep having this issue on prints where the first layer has stringy lines that don't stick together.
**I've tried the following things**
* Replaced nozzle and throat
* Used new filament (to rule out filament that may have absorbed moisture)
* Printed at 180, 200 (my usual temp), 220
* Aligned z stop sensor
* Tried line width of 0.8 (usual 0.4)
* Slowed initial speed to 30mm/s
* Increased flow
* Different Top/Bottom patterns
**My print settings as shown in this pic are the following**
* Layer height: 0.2
* Line width: 0.4
* Wall thickness: 0.8
* Print temp: 200
* Bed temp: 60
* Retraction dist: 5.5
* Retraction speed: 40mm/s
* Initial layer speed: 30mm/s
* Cooling at 20% after 0.2mm, 0% until then
**Printer**
* Prusa I3 (hictop)
* Cura to slice
* Printing with PLA
* Have had years of successful prints, issue started happening after a couple months of not using printer
* Running marlin
* Runs auto leveling routine before each print
Let me know if you think there's other relevant settings to this issue. Any help is greatly appreciated, I've been trying to fix this for days. I've tried different models, large and small, but have the same issue no matter the size
# Answer
> 5 votes
I would try two things you didn't mention; a bed leveling (this looks a little close) and an e-stepper calibration. The layer looks thin and under-extruded, and two common culprits are the bed height being too close ("oversquishing" the first layer which reduces flow rate and adhesion), and the e-stepper not feeding as much filament as the slicer's asking for (giving you thinner lines than the slicer expected, so they don't adhere to each other or the substrate).
I also see problems with that kapton layer. Totally understandable, the stuff is a major pain to lay down bubble-free, however it's also absolutely necessary to do so to avoid first layer issues. That's not your only problem here but it'll keep being a pain after you have filament feeding sorted out.
Lastly, I'm seeing slicer error; the floor fill is being laid down over the top of the shell layers on the right side of your image. Remember that the wealth of slicer variables in Cura regarding print speeds, flow rate, filament diameter etc ultimately boil down to a single G1 command per line: "move from here to here at this speed extruding this length of filament". So, if the slicer is forgetting where it drew the outline by the time it scripts the floor fill, it's possible it lost the plot on extrusion calculations as well. Alternately, the printer could be the one that lost the plot, either losing track of the steppers or incorrectly interpreting the G-code. Usually you just need to power-cycle the printer, close and reopen Cura and re-slice. Also, if you're printing with a USB cable, try switching to an SD card; there's less to go wrong in the communication between slicer and printer if the slicer tells the printer *everything* it should do up front.
I'd look into each of these, then try to print a calibration shape, like a 20mm XYZ cube, before going back to the print you had on the plate before.
---
Tags: print-quality, marlin, ultimaker-cura, prusa-i3, pla
--- |
thread-11578 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11578 | 17-4 PH Tensile Test | 2019-12-18T00:34:17.260 | # Question
Title: 17-4 PH Tensile Test
When I do a tensile test on 17-4 PH stainless steel, the stress-strain curve is very strange, two sections of Young’s modulus appeared. What is going on? The sample is made by SLM.
# Answer
According to our materials experts, you should always be careful interpreting the start of the force-displacement diagram. It is possible that the test needs to "set" itself, important issues are:
* the clamping of the test articles in the test bench vices
* alignment of the test article in the test bench
* size of the test articles (the load suggests small test articles/small diameter)
* how is displacement measured (displacement/elongation sensors "slip" easily depending on the expertise of the operator)
* artifacts in the test article?
Instead of proceeding the test till rupture (prior to the in-elastic/plastic region), it would have been beneficial if the test had been stopped at about 8 kN and relaxed to 0 kN to commence a new test.
---
*From my own experience with creep test articles we see similar issues and apply a displacement offset so that the "second section" (using your words) is extrapolated to zero load. Usually this is just a few hundredths or tenths of a mm. In this case you could shift the whole diagram 0.3 mm to the right by applying a similar offset of about -0.3 mm.*
> 2 votes
---
Tags: metal-parts, slm, part-testing
--- |
thread-11652 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11652 | Why does my PLA filament keep snapping? | 2020-01-01T15:34:37.890 | # Question
Title: Why does my PLA filament keep snapping?
Why does my 3 mm PLA filament always snap near the spool some time (usually a few hours) after a print has finished?
I have had it snap mid print but this is quite rare.
I have 3 rolls of 3 mm PLA filament from Velleman and 3DPrima. They all exhibit this behavior. They are between 2 and 3 years old. Each roll is stored in a foil bag with some desiccant, although this was not the case in the first year. The temperature in the room ranges between 14 °C and 18 °C in winter and rarely up to 30 °C in summer. Current relative humidity is 49 %. In summer I think I have seen it as high as 70 %. I baked one spool in the oven at about 50 °C for a few hours but this does not seam to have helped. When I remove the loose end of filament from the extruder after it has broken, some length of it seams to snap easily and some of it will just bend.
The printer has a direct extruder so there is no bowden tube.
# Answer
PLA seems to become brittle with age. Micro-fractures develop on the surface, and they will grow if filament is taken off the spool and held straight. This behaviour does not seem to be linked to moisture content. The best course of action is probably to use PLA quickly. Don't give it time to age.
> 4 votes
# Answer
When water gets absorbed into the filament, it causes some of the long chain polymers to break. This is a permanent reaction that cannot be fixed by baking the filament, which typically results in the embrittlement of the material. This is true for both the filament and the printed part.
> 3 votes
# Answer
PLA snapping is pretty universal. The best countermeasure is to always remove the filament from the printer after a print and place it in a low-humidity chamber. Other answers speak of moisture-induced micro-cracks, for which I have no evidence for or against.
This has occurred for me when I've been lazy about putting filament away after a print.
I've seen it with several brands of PLA, perhaps more often with filament with a glassy surface finish.
My filament is 1.75 mm. 3 mm filament may be more susceptible because of higher stresses on the surface for the same radius bend, or straightening from the same radius spool.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: pla, filament-quality, print-strength
--- |
thread-11647 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11647 | How to know if I should replace my power connector? | 2019-12-31T16:13:17.980 | # Question
Title: How to know if I should replace my power connector?
I have seen several postings in forums about the power connector on some ender 3's being bad and causing issues or just burning out, potentially causing a fire.
How can I tell if I have the bad power connector?
# Answer
If you can measure the voltage at the main board where the bed power line is attached, or at the last point in the wiring prior to the connector, then measure the voltage at the bed, you can compare the difference to determine if there is loss related to a failing connector.
One certain indication of a failing connector is to separate the components of the connector and see corrosion, discoloration or any sign of burning. The Robo3d R1+ used 10 ampere connectors and the bed draws 14 amperes, according to the research I've done. When I discovered that information and separated the connector, it was an easy answer, as one side was scorched and the pins on the other were corroded and discolored.
Another method, not for everyone, is to use an IR camera and examine the leads carrying the power to the bed. The failing portion will be absorbing some of the power and heating itself, which will show up as a bright portion in the power path.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Unless the connector has already started failing - by getting warm, creating a voltage drop, eventually melting away -, you will have to remove the shrink tubing near it. Earlier batches had the connection crimped by the supplier of the cables, which is **wrong**. XT60 connectors should always be soldered to.
> 1 votes
# Answer
If the connector or the wires are hot, you have a severe problem. The heat of a high-resistance connection encourages additional oxidation and corrosion, which escalates the problem.
If the wires do not get warmer as they approach the connector, you don't have a problem, at least not yet. If the wires get warmer as you approach the connector, you probably have a budding problem.
Soldered connectors are not generally used, with crimped connections preferred. The copper-to-copper connection is lower resistance than copper-tin-copper. Also if something happens to the connector pins which cause them to heat (such as corroded surfaces), solder can melt.
Another answer suggests that the XT60 connector should be soldered. A quick look at some spec sheets show solder-cup connections which should be soldered and aren't suitable for crimping. I have not seen that there are **no** XT60 style connectors with crimp connections, so I can not rule out the appropriateness of a crimp connection.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, hardware
--- |
thread-11632 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11632 | Cura's solution to replace corners->arcs to increase corner speed? | 2019-12-28T11:42:45.790 | # Question
Title: Cura's solution to replace corners->arcs to increase corner speed?
I realized that with current Marlin I cannot use Junction Deviation with Linear Advance, see `[BUG] Rapid changes of acceleration break linear advance when using Junction Deviation #15473`.
Yet, it is very much beneficial to not stop at the corners with high acceleration but rather do a small curve. Is it possible on a G-code level?
Is there a feature or plugin in Cura which replaces sharp corners with arcs to remove need for Junction Deviation in firmware?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Cura's solution can be found in the "Jerk Control" settings.
Short analogy; when driving, and a corner is coming up, you basically have two options to take the corner smoothly; you can take the corner with a wide turning radius, or you can slow down. Taking a neighborhood street corner at highway speeds just doesn't work even if there's nobody else on the road; you'll very likely overshoot the corner, if you're in a RWD car you'll likely lose the back end and fishtail (or worse), and the occupants of the car, yourself included, are going to be thrown around violently, to no-one's real advantage other than to say you took that turn at 70.
Back in 3D printing land, something similar applies; as the extruder approaches a sharp corner, it will be disadvantageous all around for the extruder to try to maintain 70mm/s around what's basically an instantaneous turn. Your jerk (stopping the moving axis) and acceleration (starting the non-moving axis) settings are going to exceed the physical capabilities of your steppers and drive belts, making the corner less accurate (and in the extreme, losing steps causing layer shifts), and if your belts are not *perfectly* tensioned, and really even if they are, you'll get "ringing" (the 3D equivalent of fishtailing as you straighten out after the apex of a turn while driving).
The first option, cutting the corner, is your corner-to-arc replacement; rather than try for an instantaneous turn, just soften that corner by enough that you're within what's possible for the stepper motors in terms of acceleration. This keeps the speed and surface quality high, but necessarily reduces the accuracy of the print to the model.
So instead, Cura encourages the second option; slow down before the turn. Enabling Jerk Control and tweaking the associated settings lets the Cura slicer reduce head speed gradually as the extruder approaches a sharp corner, thus reducing the torque required to stop motion in one axis and start it in another, to something the steppers can actually accomplish at a rate you'd call "instantaneous". This keeps the corners sharp and avoids ringing along straight lines after a corner, at the cost of a slower overall print speed (though not as much as reducing overall print speed to the speed at which the extruder will take corners).
Now, I realize that this is the *opposite* of "increasing corner speed"; jerk control exists to slow the extruder near corners. However, increasing corner speed is rarely what you actually want, for the reasons stated above. If you really want nicely-rounded corners, fillet them in CAD, and then the slicer will generate a sequence of arbitrarily short linear movements (true G2/G3/G5 curve interpolation from the purely polygonal STL geometry has been experimented with, but currently more trouble than it's worth) which limit the change of velocity of the extruder as it rounds the corner, instead of making the rounding an "artifact" of printer limitations. At fine enough detail levels of conversion to an STL, the results are indistinguishable from a true curve.
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Tags: marlin, g-code
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thread-11703 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11703 | Remove broken heatbreak | 2020-01-06T20:36:25.940 | # Question
Title: Remove broken heatbreak
I'm trying to replace my hotend with the E3D Hemera direct kit. I got to the final step of hot-tightening the hot side and managed to snap my heatbreak. The part that screws into the heat-sink is stuck, though I was able to remove it from the heater block section.
Below is a picture of the heatbreak. The red square shows what it in the heat-sink. It's mostly thread (with thermal compound) but a bit of the unthreaded metal is sticking out (above the disk shown).
I've tried removing it with a jeweler's drill (which is how I removed the heater block portion, but I cannot get a good grip on the long threaded piece. I've also tried pliers and rounded needle-nose pliers. Neither worked. I couldn't find my regular needle-nose and will go to the store to try that. Are there other options to break this free or am I stuck with buying a replacement heat-sink? I already ordered a replacement, but it'd be nice to have a backup in case something else goes awry (as has been the case with this modification; this is snafu number 4).
# Answer
Broken screws or screws with damaged screw heads are typically removed with screw extractors. Since there is already a hole you could "drill" (unscrew) it out with a screw extractor, as it is counter clockwise, it is about creating enough friction to unscrew it from the threads. Beware that it is not drilling and spalling material, turn slowly.
Alternatively, a grip vice pliers may work if there is enough "meat" to clamp on.
> 0 votes
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Tags: hotend, repair, e3d-hemera
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thread-11712 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11712 | Extruder temperature failure | 2020-01-07T14:09:21.560 | # Question
Title: Extruder temperature failure
I've never made solid prints since I purchased a TEVO Tarantula in December 2019, but since I'm totally new to this sport, I didn't realize I had an issue until after many failures. I kept upping extruder temperature and nothing seemed to change, parts printed but fell apart. Using a hand held temperature gauge to check bed and extruder (on the sensor screw), bed temperature was perfect, extruder only warm, stepping 10 degrees Celsius at a time (200, 210, 220, 230, 240, 250 °C) always resulted in 18.3 °C/65 °F
I looked for broken wires on extruder heat and sensor, but they were okay. TEVO support thinks it's a sensor problem, but it won't arrive for 1 month or more. I purchased a spare extruder from AliExpress when I bought the machine and replaced the complete unit but now I get an error `E1 Heating Fail, Printer Halted`.
# Answer
The first extruder unit appears to have an error the firmware can't detect, which is why TEVO thinks the issue with that extruder is the heat sensor. If the sensor's reading hot relative to actual temp, the block will be too cool to reliably extrude, while the printer won't think anything's wrong and won't try to heat the block more.
However, I'm surprised the extruder can push any amount of any type of fil through the nozzle at room temp, which makes me think there's also some user error here. Non-contact temp gauges like IR guns can be bad at accurately checking very localized temperature; I'd recheck the extruder at what the printer thinks is working temp, but use a contact thermometer like a multimeter with a thermocouple (the Extech MN35 is inexpensive and works well for most hobbyist uses).
The second extruder has a detectable error. Either the sensor is again faulty, but this time reading 0 V (which usually equates to 0 °C), or the heating element is faulty and can't warm the block. Either way, the printer can command as much extruder heat as it wants, the sensor never gets above room temp much less to operating temp, so the printer eventually gives up and tells you there's an extruder heating problem.
This printer-detected heating error is a little easier to troubleshoot because the printer can help you. If the hotend gets to working temp as measured externally, but the sensor reads well below it, the sensor is the problem. If the hotend does not heat, or heats very poorly (like only getting into the 150-ish range when trying to heat to 200), it's the heating element. Both the heater and sensor could be faulty, but the combination of two failures is less likely by simple probability, and it's easier to diagnose the sensor issue with a working heater, so if the heater's not heating, fix that first.
It's possible, even probable, that a combination of parts from the two extruders will give you a working hotend, however you have to know which parts are working, and those parts have to be separable (as in you can remove the needed part from one assembly and put it in the other without destroying the part or either assembly), which at this pricepoint is honestly not a guarantee. The info provided in the question isn't quite enough to say which pieces of each assembly should be combined to give you a working extruder head, but the above tests will tell you.
> 1 votes
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Tags: extruder, tevo-tarantula
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thread-11662 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11662 | My 3D printer hotend always jams | 2020-01-02T23:20:43.460 | # Question
Title: My 3D printer hotend always jams
I've just built my first 3D printer. It uses a Bowden setup.
When I try to print the extruder starts fine, but after a few seconds the extruder motor start skipping and the nozzle is jammed.
I tried a cold pull, but it didn't help. I removed the PTFE tube and tried to push the filament with my hand, it works but at the start I need the push harder but after it flows fine. But if I reinstall the Bowden setup, it works fine for a few minutes, but after a few seconds it starts again.
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Note I am using silver PLA at 200-205 °C. I tried to raise the temperature to 215 °C, but it also jammed, and the filament what after I pushed out was black (it is a new hotend and I never used black filament before), like it was burned (if it is possible).
# Answer
> 1 votes
Extruder clogging is, at its root, a matter of too much backpressure at the hotend. There are a number of more specific causes, but it very simply comes down to the fact that the printer cannot feed the filament through the hotend as fast as the extruder is pushing it in.
Things to check, pretty much in the order they should be checked/performed for a brand-new printer:
* **Extruder stepper calibration.** With new printers based on RepRap firmware (Enders, Prusas, pretty much any printer in the \\$200-\\$400 range these days), one of the first things you have to do after assembly is to calibrate your E-stepper (the motor that drives filament through the extruder). The printer is given commands based on millimeters of movement, including the feeding of filament, and it has to translate those into finite steps of the motors. If those steps don't actually move the extruder or the filament as much as expected, the printer will behave poorly, including clogging. E-stepper calibration is pretty easy, especially on Bowden extruders; you basically disconnect the Bowden tube at either end, load filament through the stepper, cut it off flush with the end of the tube or the coupling, then tell the printer to extrude 100 mm of filament. Cut it off flush again and measure, and if it's not 100 mm, look for a command beginning with `M92` in your printer configuration (it can be in the settings of your actual printer or a configuration script in your slicer software that gets tacked on to the front of the G-code files generated for use with that printer), and adjust the value you see after the `E` in that command by multiplying it by 100, then dividing by the millimeters of filament actually extruded in the test. Rinse and repeat until the printer is feeding the amount of fil you tell it to.
* **Bed height/leveling.** This may not sound like it has anything to do with extruder clogs, but in truth, if your extruder is too close to the print bed at any point during the first layer, it can very easily clog the extruder by not allowing enough material to flow out the nozzle to keep up with what's being fed in. Bed leveling is a key step in print prep, and every printer behaves best with subtle changes to the bed leveling procedure. My guess is that you need to re-level for a slightly higher "zero-Z" above the build plate. If you're using the sheet-of-paper method, either use a thicker piece of paper, or go for less friction as you pass the paper between the nozzle and build plate.
* **Nozzle diameter settings.** The standard nozzle tip diameter is 0.4 mm, however there are others. Your slicer probably expects the standard diameter as a default, so if you're running a 0.3, 0.2 or 0.1 mm nozzle for finer detail, the slicer has to be told that so it can adjust the filament feed rate. Otherwise it'll be jamming up to 16 times as much filament into that hotend as it should be. This isn't likely to be your problem but it's something to check; most extruder nozzles these days have the tip diameter engraved or pressed into the side of the nozzle, and if yours is unlabeled, try heading to the local music store and buying a single 0.013" guitar string (typically sold as a high E for acoustics). If that wire end easily fits through the extruder nozzle, you have a 0.4 mm, if it does not, it's something smaller.
* **Extruder clog/obstruction.** That guitar string I mentioned makes a really good extruder cleaner. Just feed it through the extruder tip and gently push it up through the hotend till it pops out the top of the extruder, then feed it back and forth a bit to "floss" the extruder tip, cleaning out any minor carbon buildup. If you can't feed the wire completely through the extruder body from either direction, that's probably your problem, and fixes range anywhere from a little more pressure with the wire, to a narrow drill bit carving out the obstruction, up to removing the entire heat block from the printer, putting it on or in something that won't burn, and blasting it with a soldering torch to burn out the obstruction, followed (after letting it cool) by a bath in some acetone to dissolve any remaining gunk.
* **Gunked-up extruder hobb.** The toothed wheel attached to the extruder stepper is called the "hobb" (you may hear it called a gear, but it's really not one as it doesn't mesh with another gear). As the printer feeds filament, especially if you've had jamming problems, the hobb's teeth will fill with shavings from the filament it feeds through. This can cause the hobb to slip against the filament, which not only reduces the pressure of the filament being pushed through the extruder, it accelerates the accumulation of gunk on the hobb. A short blast of canned air is usually all you need to clean the hobb; if it still looks pretty caked up, a toothbrush will sort it out. While you're at it, check the idler to be sure it's still spinning freely.
* **Filament type/brand/age.** You mentioned it's "silver PLA"; the silver stuff I have is actually a "silk PLA" product, that sheathes the PLA in a jacket of another plastic (often PET) for that high-gloss appearance. These kinds of filaments can be very temperamental, as can filaments with glitter or fiber aggregate in them (also common in metallic fil colors). You have to have the printer settings dialed in just right, and some of these products just don't work well at all in some printers. Try getting some very basic, brand-name PLA filament like Hatchbox, ColorFabb, MatterHackers, MakerBot, etc, in a good primary color (avoid black or white; the color saturation affects how easily the stuff extrudes at a given temp), no silk finish or other modification. If that prints well, the suspect becomes the silver fil.
* **Extruder temperature.** You're printing at 200-205 °C, which is usually good, but if you're getting problems, the first thing to do with PLA is to try printing *cooler*, not hotter. Case in point, getting PLA too hot can cause it to fully melt and drizzle out (vacating the extruder and causing it to overheat the fil further up, jamming the melt tube), it can gum up (directly clogging the extruder nozzle), and it can carbonize (as you see it doing at 215). If you're already flirting with burning your PLA at 10 degrees hotter, you are probably running too hot. Try backing off to 195 or 190 and see if that helps any.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I had a very similar problem with my printer, and it turned out that the bowden tube was not fully inserted into the hotend. The hotend is bored out to a very close fit to the tube. I had inserted it about a half inch, until it stopped, but it had only gone in to the top of the hotend.
After I inserted the bowden tube fully, my clogging issue stopped.
You can insert a toothpick or something and measure the depth, then mark the tube at the same measurement to ensure it gets fully inserted.
# Answer
> 0 votes
It is useful to diagnose your problem if you provide more information, specifically what material you are using and what temperature you are using on your hot end.
Even without the above information, it is likely that the hot end temperature is too low. At a low setting, the filament in the nozzle will soften, perhaps even melt as deeply as needed to be extruded, but as new filament is provided by the extruder motor, it also cools the heater block.
By increasing the temperature, you're ensuring there is sufficient thermal energy to handle the incoming cold material.
It would be useful to increase your nozzle temperature by 5°C for each test. Despite matching your controller's temperature to the manufacturer's specification, you can not be certain that the temperature at the nozzle and heat block are what you have programmed.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, reprap, desktop-printer
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thread-11720 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11720 | Cura is printing support on nothing? | 2020-01-08T09:16:24.197 | # Question
Title: Cura is printing support on nothing?
I am new on 3D printing, but I cannot understand how support structures (in Ultimaker Cura 4.4.1) can stand if they do not lay on anything, but air. Throwing everything away after 9 hours of printing is not a good experience, did I do anything wrong?
In the attached screenshots images of the sliced model and Cura settings for support structures are shown.
## Demonstration of the issue
Here some pics of the real printing results at 50 %-60 % of the work done. One of the two critical supports was barely done while other one, the same encircled in the slicer model, was not. I saved the printing attaching with some glue an "L" shaped piece of cardboard.
**UPDATE 11/01/2020**
The tree support option greatly failed, but if anybody could suggest different settings I will be happy to try and report here an update. These are some screenshots:
I've highlighted with red pencil the horizontal pieces of structure supported by nothing. I have to say anyway that the resulting model is worth to Moebius, could be an alien spaceship it-self!!!
I have partially fixed the problem setting the support horizontal expansion to 3 instead 0 mm as suggested by a more skilled friend. Anyway, this is clearly a workaround of an intrinsic bug that appears just with Anycubic printer setting and not with other printers configuration. The drawback of using 3mm instead 0mm is that the supports become too strong and some of them completely envelop model parts.
# Answer
The image of the sliced print part is not very clear but printing support on air is a feature of Ultimaker Cura. This is done when support is laid on top of your print part if you enabled `Support Placement` to `Everywhere`, which you did. The default Cura setting for `Support Bottom Distance` (which is a sub-setting of `Support Z Distance`) is the layer thickness specified in `Layer Height`. If you have a layer height of 0.2 mm, the `Support Bottom Distance` is also 0.2 mm. For the top, option `Support Top Distance` this is two layer heights, so 0.4 mm in this example. These options are visible in the expert mode, you can search for them in the search box, see image below.
**Why should you want air in between your part and the support?**
You'll soon find out when you want to **remove supports**, if no gap is used, the support will fuse to the print part. This is only interesting (no gap between print part and support structure) when you use a different filament for support like PVA or break-away filament; e.g. PVA dissolves in water.
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Note on the updated printed part images, you seem to have a stringing issue that needs to be resolved first. Note that it tries to print support on top of inner side of the toroid. Maybe fusing the support will help you to slice better supports, or alternatively set option `Support Placement` to `Touching Buildplate` and use an experimental option called `Tree Support`. You can also try to change the print orientation by rotating the print. Last resort is to design the supports yourself in a 3D model software program.
> 3 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, support-structures
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thread-11716 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11716 | Top layers failing/underextruding on Creality CR-10 | 2020-01-07T20:57:56.473 | # Question
Title: Top layers failing/underextruding on Creality CR-10
For some reason the only the top layers keep failing or underextruding on my prints, for no clear reason. Here are my settings:
* Slicer: Simplify3D
* Filament: 1.75 mm Black PLA from Filamentive
* Resolution: 0.1 mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle
* Temperature: 200 °C nozzle and 50 °C bed
* Speed: 45 mm/s and 50% outline speed
* Infill: 15%
The prints were going perfectly fine on a 0.2 mm resolution and only seemed to fail when I changed to 0.1 mm; which is strange considering the rest of the print goes fine, apart from the top layers (which I have 3 of).
My only thought is that it could be a bridging issue and is somehow underextruding, and getting caught on the infill as that it where it is centred around. I wouldn't know how to fix this.
If anyone could give me any information or tips I would be very appreciative, thanks.
The pictures are taken after some light sanding.
# Answer
> 2 votes
If you decrease layer thickness, you should increase bottom and top layer amount, or set it to a fixed shell thickness. The thinner the layers the more difficult to span over the infill (there is much less filament extruded).
You could try extra part cooling, higher percentage infill, reduced hotend temperature and slower top layer printing. But, best results are reached with more top layers and higher infill percentage.
See e.g. this answer by user "dnewman":
> That said, with very low layer heights (e.g., 0.1 mm), there's a tendency to use very sparse infill to speed up printing time. However, very low layer heights bridge over voids very, very poorly. So poorly that you can have the print nearly finished only to find that the top won't close up. Thus, don't make the infill too sparse when doing low layer heights. MOREVER, you definitely need more top layers to get the final finished top to look acceptable. The thin layer heights will take many more layers (many more in physical height, not just layer count) to give a nice top. At issue (again) is how poorly low layer heights will bridge voids. With 0.2 mm on up, you generally get a nice, thin strand extruded which can stretch across voids. But at 0.1 mm layer heights the printer is just doing tiny, discrete squirts of plastic which it spreads like cake icing across the lower layer. There's not a single, fine strand extruded and instead tiny little beads. When there's a solid layer below, these squirts have something to be spread against by the extruder nozzle. But when there's a void, the squirts just build up on the nozzle and then come off in a big blob when the nozzle next brushes over a non-void space.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The holes in your part tops are the result of a combination of poor bridging and too few top layers.
What's happening is that when the printer tries to lay down the first layer of the top/roof, it has to "bridge" over the top layer of the infill. If you are trying to lay down that layer too quickly, with too hot a filament temperature, over too sparse an infill, the lines won't go down properly, and then the next layer over that has to try to bridge this same gap with very little support (and very often with up-curled broken strands of filament in the way).
The printer can *eventually* lay down a smooth layer, if you give it enough tries to smooth over the rougher, broken layers underneath. How many you need depends on how badly the first one failed to bridge the infill gaps. If you're only printing 2 layers, try 4. If you're printing 4, try 6.
Also, look at your infill percentage and pattern. The top lines have to be drawn over the top of whatever the layer of infill looks like as of when the slicer calculates that the first layer of top needs to go down. Virtually all slicers provide a "preview" of the sliced layers, with some like Cura allowing you to trace through the extruder's "tool path" over each layer. This can be a very useful tool to diagnose potential issues with what the slicer will expect the printer to do.
As for how to change it, it really depends on what you need out of the part in terms of material strength (different patterns have advantages and disadvantages in how much force can be applied in what directions), weight (more infill means heavier), and print time (higher percentages and more complex infill patterns increase print time). Cubic infill has the best overall strength-for-weight, and it slices and prints pretty fast as each layer is just straight lines. However, it's among the worst in terms of the grid it provides under the top layer. Isolinear/Triangle fill provides one of the better support structures, and is near the top in Z-axis compressive strength, but compressive strength other than in the Z-axis tends to be low. Gyroid infill has among the best combinations of strength, weight and required bridging distances, but slicing and printing the complex curved structure takes more time, and some slicers don't offer it (I'm still kicking around with an old MakerBot that's only fully supported by MakerBot Desktop, which doesn't offer any "fully 3D" fills like cubic or gyroid at all).
Lastly, if you absolutely need the model at a light weight or fast print time that precludes increasing the infill or slowing print head speed, try printing a bridging test, especially something like a "temperature tower" that allows you to see the effects of varying extrusion temperature all in one model, and make sure you're printing at the exact temperature giving you the best results for the other configuration settings you're using. Your model may not require externally-visible bridging or overhangs, but the ability to draw a long line of filament literally into thin air without sagging or snapping is a useful trick even in "solid" object prints, because as you've found out, these solid shapes are up to 90% air inside.
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Tags: pla, underextrusion
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thread-11725 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11725 | How to save the post processing scripts configuration with Cura? | 2020-01-08T18:07:39.557 | # Question
Title: How to save the post processing scripts configuration with Cura?
I have made a temperature ⨉ fan speed tower which needed 3x9-1 ChangeAtZ post processing scripts and it took me quite much time to configure them all (and check it twice). Is there a way to save this, so that I wouldn't need to make them all again if something went wrong and I needed to start over or if I wanted to do something similar again ?
# Answer
Thanks to fred\_dot\_u, I found the solution : the post processing scripts configuration is saved... in the printer profile. So, you cannot directly duplicate it, but re-installing a second occurrence of the same printer will clear the post processing scripts list, you can get them back by selecting the modified one...
> 3 votes
# Answer
I'm a Simplify3D user which allows one to save "factory" files. It appears that Cura supports printer profile configuration and saving.
From the above link, one is directed to enter the profile manager. You can duplicate an existing profile and rename it to separate it from the protected (standard/stock?) profiles.
Without using Cura to confirm this, I suspect that you'll discover this may be the solution you seek.
> 3 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-11710 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11710 | Altering the print bed temperature at different layers | 2020-01-07T04:26:17.657 | # Question
Title: Altering the print bed temperature at different layers
I am using Cura for slicing, and OctoPrint for the actual printing.
On small pieces with roughly one square cm of surface area prints over about 6 mm have a risk of coming off at 60 °C.
In fact, I have had to use 71 °C so it stick properly. However, I don't want the print bed that hot all the time. I would like to try a different number of layers at different bed temperatures till I get it right.
Gradually, over the course of 1-3 mm, for the bed temperature to decrease back to 60 °C to save on electricity. Possibly even 50 °C as the layers get higher.
Cura only support the initial layer having a different temperature and that isn't enough.
Apparently you can have custom user events with OctoPrint, one of them being **ZChange** which is great.
```
{__currentZ}: the current Z position of the head if known, -1 if not available
```
I need on the ZChange event to check the `__currentZ` and execute an`M140` with a temperature varying with layer height. Normally I would use a simple `if` command or etc., but how do I implement this here.
However, its seems you can execute a command or a G-code.
I can't seem to find any examples where I can test the Z height in layers or mm and execute a different temperature for different layers.
An additional problem is the increased temps cause the model to melt so that the opening is smaller nearest to the glass than most of the rest of the model.
I am height of the raft, which helps, but I am hoping for a compromise.
The print bed shouldn't need to be 70 °C for the whole vertical height of the model.
Any suggestions?
# Answer
> 3 votes
**The actual problem you are facing is bed adhesion**, the proposed solution (in your question) shouldn't be the preferred solution to get your parts to stick to the plate/glass as plastic shrinks as it cools down. Note that a 5 °C temperature drop after the first layer usually isn't a problem, but larger temperature differences or shutting off the heat completely will cause your parts to come off the glass.
Note that PLA requires a temperature of about 60 °C (for adhesion as this is close to the glass temperature where the plastic is soft; however, note that PLA can be printed on cold bed surfaces on suitable bed surfaces). The slate of glass is an insulator, so it is perfectly possible that you need to set the bed at a higher temperature to get 60 °C at the surface of the glass plate. When the lower layer deforms the bed temperature is too high.
As you are using Cura, there is a plugin available called TweakAtZ, nowadays this is a default plugin. How to use this is described in this anser (on question "How does one use a heat tower?"); instead of changing the hotend temperature you will need to modify the bed temperature instead (using `M140`).
**To solve the actual problem**, you need to prepare the glass by cleaning it properly, use a level bed with a correct initial nozzle to bed distance for `Z=0` (usually thickness of a plain paper sheet A4/Letter) and an adhesive like hairspray, glue stick or a dedicated adhesion spray like 3DLAC or Dimafix. I'm using 3DLAC for several years (for PLA and PETG; Dimafix is supposed to be more sticky at higher temperatures, so for ABS for instance) and never had any problems with adhesion on properly levelled beds. See this answer for another user's experience.
An OctoPrint solution using event as you suggest is not recommended. This is the config.yaml, e.i. the configuration of the print server, not a print instance option file. Furthermore, there are yet no plugins that can handle additional code when the head reaches a certain (layer)height. This is pretty tricky if you use Z position detection when the head also can hop, such code should be inserted by the slicer instead.
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*Related to your question are the answers on question: "Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?".*
# Answer
> 0 votes
* You can manually edit the file. Look for the line that has the Z height of your choice, and insert the temp change g-code right above it.
* Upgrade to a real slicer like Simplify3D with has an options to set a heater temp at different layers.
* Preheat the bed before you print, then print with a bed temp set lower than the temp you preheated at. This will give the illusion of a temp change.
*(I for one turn off my bed after the first layer, when I'm printing PLA. I also don't have proper cooling (at this time), my environment is humid (59.9%) and the ambient air temp is 31C.) - just for context*
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Tags: heated-bed, glass-bed
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thread-11638 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11638 | How do I remove a 3D print stuck to the glass build plate | 2019-12-29T16:55:22.417 | # Question
Title: How do I remove a 3D print stuck to the glass build plate
I printed a model and now I can't remove it.
I have been chiselling away with a putty knife and made little or no progress. I even heated the bed up to 70 °C. That really didn't seem to help.
Last time, I put it in vice, and tried to free it that way, but instead I broke the glass.
Suggestion?
# Answer
> 5 votes
It's useful to know what material you used for the print. Also, you've referenced the glass that broke in the vise, which implies a glass bed, but did you use any adhesive spray or other application?
Allowing for all of this unknown information, there may be a solution for your release. Our library makerspace has a small bottle of 50-50 water/denatured alcohol, although isopropyl alcohol should also work if your glass is not coated with a special film such as PEI. Heat up the surface of the glass to your usual temperature (50-60°C) and apply a few drops of the mixture to the edge of the print.
It will evaporate pretty quickly, but some of it will work under the glass/model interface. Apply a bit more while the glass is still warm. Continue to apply until the the evaporation is no longer accelerated.
Considering the difficulty you are experiencing, it may be necessary to repeat the heating sequence multiple times in order to get enough wicking of the liquid to effect a release.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I don't have a glass bed, but I've had a lot of luck with using dental floss to get stuck prints loose.
If you can get the floss under the edge of the print, then you just pull it through to the other side.
This technique takes some practice but works really well once you get the hang of it.
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Tags: post-processing, glass-bed
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thread-11738 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11738 | Marlin firmware question for dual extruder | 2020-01-11T03:21:19.340 | # Question
Title: Marlin firmware question for dual extruder
I've recently added a second hotend and extruder assembly to my 3D printer and I've made all the necessary changes in the firmware. I've defined the temp sensor for hotend 2, all the pins for heat and temp as well as defined extruders as 2 instead of 1.
The problem is that the printer display in the motion menu is showing
* Extruder
* Extruder E1
* Extruder E2
"Extruder" and "Extruder E1" both control the primary extruder and "Extruder 2" controls the second extruder.
Any tips, ideas, suggestions?
# Answer
There is nothing to worry about, this is a feature not a bug.
`Extruder` refers to the active extruder, the loaded/active tool. Based on the active extruder the `Extruder` controls either your `Extruder E1` (this is known in the firmware as `Extruder E0`!) or your `Extruder E2` (the `Extruder E1` from the firmware).
> 2 votes
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Tags: marlin, extruder
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thread-11707 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11707 | How can I remove my print from the bed safely | 2020-01-07T01:27:02.153 | # Question
Title: How can I remove my print from the bed safely
I have printed two objects with my new 3D printer (Anycubic Mega S) and everytime, my prints are stuck to my bed (sort of glued to it). I cannot remove them by hand. I have tried waiting until it cools off, but the only thing that works is scraping really hard the bed with the spatula.
I'm scared that if I have to do that for my next prints, I will break the bed (maybe peel off the element that keeps the plastic and the bed glued together while printing).
What is the safest way to remove a print from the bed ?
# Answer
> 4 votes
One method that works at our makerspace and also has worked for a user on another 3d printing forum is to use a 50:50 mix of water and denatured alcohol. While the print bed is warm, apply some to the perimeter of the print at the bed surface. Allow it to cool, try to remove the print. If it does not work, reheat the bed and repeat until you are able to release it.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I have had good luck using dental floss. If you can get it under the edge of the print, then you can pull it all the way through and prints come off easily.
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Tags: heated-bed, print-material, anycubic-i3-mega
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thread-11722 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11722 | Using an Anet A6 3D printer in the UK... (mains voltage issue!) | 2020-01-08T14:06:19.880 | # Question
Title: Using an Anet A6 3D printer in the UK... (mains voltage issue!)
I understand that this is probably more of an electronics question, but was hoping that someone with experience of using an Anet A6 in the UK (or a country outside of the US/China) may be able to help... or alternatively, someone knowledgeable in electronics!
I recently bought and assembled an Anet A6. I am based in the UK. On the power supply transformer of the Anet A6, there is a switch that allows you to select the input voltage from the mains. There are two options, 100 V or 220 V.
When I turn my Anet A6 printer on, nothing happens... I have triple checked all connections and there doesn't seem to be anything wrongly connected or loose.
I am wondering if the reason it is not working is because in the UK we use a different mains voltage 230 V (I think) and a different frequency 50 Hz (I think) to the US and China (which I assume the printer was built to accommodate)?... I am not 100 % sure on this, just a guess, I am far from an electronics expert.
I don't have a multimeter to test if there is voltage flowing (not that I would even know how to test it lol). Is it likely that this difference between voltage/freq is the reason that it is not working? If so, is there anyway to fix this? I would prefer to buy something (some sort of converter) than tinker with the electronics, as I have no experience in electronics and live in a rented flat, which I really don't want to burn down (not that I would if i owned it).
Any help is massively appreciated, thanks in advance!
---
**Update**
I have done what @Oscar suggested and also bought a multimeter to test the circuitry. I plugged my Anet A6 into the mains power supply and turned it on, but still nothing happens... the LED doesn't light up, not does the LCD screen turn on.
I tested the voltage of the power supply whilst it was turned on across connections 6 and 8 in the video below (taken from the assembly instructions video, 12 mins 46 seconds):
Assembly Instructions Video, 12:46
The 6 and 8 connections correspond to the output from the transformer (ie the connections that would be connected to the mainboard). There was no voltage reading at all when I measured it here with the multimeter. Does this indicate that there is a problem with the transformer/power supply, or is this expected? Or am I testing in the wrong place and there is a better place to test when the printer is on to determine what the problem might be?
# Answer
> 5 votes
The UK uses 230 V mains voltage. The 220 V designation is from the past, Europe is now using 230 V. You do not have to worry about the frequency.
You should place the switch to 220 V and plug the cord into the socket. The printer should start immediately booting (cycling) the printer firmware, the LCD should light up and the cold end cooling fan will spin (annoyingly).
If nothing happens, you need to check the Power Supply Unit (PSU) and all cables for proper connection (does the fan of the PSU spin if it has one, you should at least see a led light up). A multimeter is not expensive and generally very valuable to test if it outputs 12 V. That way you know the PSU is working or not, if it works the problem is at the main printer board.
As these PSU's are pretty cheap and faulty, you could well have received a broken one.
---
***How to measure the voltage?***
*If you look at the connection terminals you will find labels above them. Measuring position 6 and 8 might be the incorrect ones, this depends on your PSU. If you have exactly the same PSU as from the linked video, measuring between 6 and 8 would be correct:*
*From the image above the connections from left to right (for other PSU units, the order may be different, I have units where the connection to the mains is on the right):*
* *`L`, `N` and `ground` are used for connection to the mains,*
* *`COM` (stands for common or 0 V) or sometimes denoted as `-V` is the output ground (negative, connection for the black wires) and*
* *`+V` is positive, connection for the red wires.*
*You need to measure the voltage difference over `COM` and `+V`, this should be the voltage of the power supply. Ideally you measure the voltage when the power supply is delivering a load (e.g. directly connected to a strip of LEDs or directly connected to the heated bed; some faulty PSU crash in under load, this can be seen by a lower voltage than the rated voltage).*
*If the PSU is correctly wired, your fuse is not broken, does not have a LED lighted and the voltage is zero the unit is defective.*
# Answer
> 3 votes
@Oscar was correct, so long as the switch is set at 220 V, the printer will turn on. I am adding this answer to help anyone else who has a similar problem.
I strongly recommend that you buy a multimeter if you have any power supply issues, as this helped me to figure out what was wrong.
There were three issues that needed to be rectified before my printer would turn on. The first was that I had bought a fairly cheap EU to UK plug converter from my local supermarket. This was mistake number one, as the quality was low and there was no ground pin for the power supply (which is dangerous). I plugged the EU plug into my converter, and then the converter into the UK mains socket, and it would not turn on. By using my multimeter I was able to figure out that the converter was a piece of rubbish. With the plug still plugged into the converter, but the converter removed from the mains, I touched my multimeter cable, whilst in continuity mode, on one of the three pins on the UK side of the converter (the bit that goes into the wall), and the other cable onto one of the terminals that I had connected the power cable to the power supply with. I touched each terminal in sequence to see if it was electrically connected to the pin on the converter. I repeated this in sequence and identified that the live pin on the converter was not connected, and so no current could flow when plugged into mains. I immediately defenestrated the converter. Here is the replacement that I bought:
EU to UK converter
The next issue was that the power supply cable was wired up incorrectly (or at least unintuitively). In continuity mode again, I touched one multimeter cable to one pin on the EU plug of my power supply, and the other to one of the terminals (which were connected to the wiring of my power cable.) I discovered that the live and neutral wires of the power cable were wired the wrong way round on the plug (in order for it to be used in a UK converter, not sure what the wiring convention is on mainland EU). In the UK, the right hole in the mains socket is live, the left is neutral, and the top one is ground. On the EU plug I had been provided with, the left pin was live and the right pin was neutral. If I were to plug this in to the new converter in the normal orientation (cable coming out the bottom side), the live and neutral would have been connected incorrectly (plug-live -\> converter-neutral, plug-neutral -\> converter-live). Hence, in order for the pins to be situated correctly in the converter, and subsequently in the mains socket, the EU plug had to be plugged into the converter upside down (plug-live -\> converter-live, plug-neutral -\> converter-neutral).
**Finally, the official instructions for the wiring of the Anet A6 are wrong.** If you follow the youtube video that they provide, you will see that the positive terminal is closest to the bottom of the diagram (on the thermistor/endstop side of the board). Mainboard wiring instructions. THIS IS INCORRECT. Check your board, as the polarity will be printed onto the board. If you wire up the mainboard according to the instructions, your V+ wire will go to the negative terminal of the mainboard and, your positive terminal will go to the COM wire of the power supply. This is wrong, as the positive terminal should be connected to the V+ wire, and the negative to COM.
Hopefully this helps save someone some frustration and time!
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Tags: anet-a8, printer-building, anet-a6, power-supply
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thread-11757 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11757 | Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Monoprice Maker Ultimate thread pitch or number of steps? | 2020-01-13T05:00:17.237 | # Question
Title: Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Monoprice Maker Ultimate thread pitch or number of steps?
Does anyone know the the thread pitch or number of steps for the Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Monoprice Maker Ultimate?
# Answer
If you navigate to e.g. the Marlin printer firmware configuration file for the Wanhao Duplicator 6 you will find that the steps per mm are defined as:
```
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2...]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80.0395, 80.0395, 400.48, 99.1 }
```
Sidenote, somebody who posted this has diligently tried to tune their machine, this should read:
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80., 80., 400., 100. }
```
From these values you can tune your own if needed.
Now we do the math with the following assumptions:
* 400 steps per mm,
* standard 200 steps per revolution stepper motor (1.8°) and
* assuming that your board uses 1/16 µ-steps
Dividing the physical stepper steps per revolution by the firmware steps per millimeter we can calculate how much the nut advanced in a single revolution, i.e. 200/(400/16) = 200/25 = 8 millimeter. The nut therefor advanced 8 mm per complete revolution of the stepper. This means you will most probably have Tr8x8(P2) lead screws.
Do note that there are online calculators that can help you out doing the math for you, e.g. this RepRap calculator page.
> 2 votes
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Tags: firmware, monoprice-maker-ultimate
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thread-11309 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11309 | Removeable Glass Bed vs. Removeable Springsteel Beds | 2019-11-06T14:16:15.583 | # Question
Title: Removeable Glass Bed vs. Removeable Springsteel Beds
Removeable beds are starting to get more common in low-price consumer-grade printers. There are pretty much 3 types:
* Unheated beds
* Heated beds from steel held by magnets or clips
* Heated glass beds held by clips
Unheated beds are the lowest class, and not an issue here. **What are the pros and cons for a steel/springsteel bed versus a glass bed?**
# Answer
> 2 votes
In favor of glass:
* Smoother surface gives you a nicer bottom layer (though Kapton-layered steel is no slouch)
* More even, regular surface makes bed easier to level
* Easy to prep and clean
* More scratch-resistant makes getting under a part with a metal scraper a little less harrowing
* Corrosion-resistant (glass doesn't rust; silicon dioxide is in fact already about as oxidized as it can possibly be)
In favor of steel:
* Flexes for easier release
* Safer (steel plates don't shatter, at least not at temperatures you're likely to use them)
* Conducts heat better for faster and more even heating
* Slightly less expensive on average
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Tags: heated-bed, build-plate, glass-bed
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thread-11744 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11744 | What should I use to clean buildtak(knock off)? | 2020-01-11T20:48:08.260 | # Question
Title: What should I use to clean buildtak(knock off)?
My printer came with a knock off BuildTak like build surface. What can I use to clean it? I don't want to damage it.
# Answer
For BuildTak, my first recommendation is isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol or isopropanol). Readily available just about anywhere basic medical supplies are sold, it cuts though light oils and greases, and dissolves most common build surface adhesives like hairspray or Elmer's glue stick. In fact I often give my Ender's bed a light spray of isopropyl after an initial layer of hairspray, as the alcohol thins the hairspray a bit so I can take a plastic scraper and spread it around a little more evenly, before it sets to a very tacky initial surface that holds well.
Depending on where you live, denatured alcohol aka methyated spirits might be easier to get, and this stuff also works well as a cleaner and degreaser. The methanol does a little better job at actually removing old build adhesive instead of just "reactivating" it, and it also seems to do a little better than isopropyl at releasing and capturing old print residues that didn't make it off the surface with the rest of the print.
Be aware that both the liquid and the vapors of both of these are toxic, denatured alcohol a little more so than isopropanol. You should have plenty of ventilation through your workspace while using either one.
For a deep clean, especially with a removable build surface, it's hard to beat a mild dish detergent and water, and a scrub with a Teflon-safe Scotch-Brite sponge (they're usually blue). A clean rinse, pat dry with a towel, then give it a spray of isopropanol to finish drying it and it's ready to go. This is more of a hassle and I don't recommend it as a quick between-prints cleaning, but it can bring a well-used bed surface right back to life when more volatile cleaning agents won't do it.
Whether it's worth the frustration getting the plate properly rinsed (soap, being slippery, is not going to aid adhesion), versus just scraping the surface back off and putting a new one on, depends on how easy it is to bring the bed surface to the sink. My Ender's magnetic surface makes this much easier than a simple adhesive-backed surface right on the aluminum. By the same token it also makes the surface easier to replace, and they're not that expensive (so I highly recommend them if you like BuildTak), but \\$12 is \\$12, compared to 5 minutes in the sink with some Palmolive.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is the general recommendation I've heard and it works well for me.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Besides IPA (80 %), which is one of the best cleaners for general pourpose, 99 % ethanol ("Spiritus") can work as a good substitute.
Acetone too can be used on BuildTak and its clones in a pitch without damaging it, as long as it is kept away from the edges, where it could weaken the bond to the aluminium. Using it repeatedly could however smooth the surface over some.
Mineral Spirits might be useful to prepare the aluminium for a new bed, but sould **not** be used on the BuildTak or its clones, as it could harm the surface and leave residue.
> 1 votes
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Tags: build-plate, maintenance, cleaning
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thread-11756 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11756 | How to ease the process of removing support for miniatures | 2020-01-13T00:32:15.113 | # Question
Title: How to ease the process of removing support for miniatures
I have recently bought an Anycubic i3 Mega S 3D printer. I'm using the stock nozzle (.4 mm) and I print with the plastic it came with (ABS). I'm using `Ultimaker 4.4.1`.
When I print minis, I'm always having issues removing the support the slicer software adds to print the object. Most of the time, I end up breaking parts of my minis. I'm using the tools given with the box.
How do I make this process easier ? I'm mostly interested in the settings linked with the support generation, but if there are other ways, I would like to know.
Note that the minis are for DnD characters, thus printed objects are often not flat and contain multiple curves, which then creates support that are harder to remove, for example, in between the holder of the mini (the cylinder that holds the piece in a stand up position) and the legs.
I usually print models found online for free, but from time to time I buy some models which contain a lot of details than the free counter parts. I don't mind loosing some of those details, as long as the mini is well printed (in short, I don't mind if the sheath of the sword falls off, but I do care if the arm falls off)
# Answer
> 3 votes
Let's look at the factors that can help us get support parts printed and removed:
* access
* dimensions/size
* bonding
* debonding
## access
Support structure has to be accessed to be removed. Tree support could help in this. An alternative would be soluable support, which is still accessible if buried deep in a part - as the solvent would be all that needs to access the part.
## dimensions/size
Support structure needs to have some crossection to be printed at all. if it gets too small, it will fail to print and fail in supporting. You might alter the support angle to support even 40° or 30° surfaces to the vertical to forcefully increase the supported area and thus dimension of the support structure.
## bonding (to bed)
To make sure the part and its supports don't shift from one another, it is best to print with a brim that makes sure all support trees and the base of the model all share a combined first layer.
## debonding
Debonding means, we need to remove the support structure from the printed part. Ultimaker Cura allows to define a gap from support structure to the part, usually 2 layers. With these settings removing supports can be as easy as removing the brim and careful cleanup.
# Other things
## No support?!
Some miniatures have lots of unsupported areas. For example this knight needs support at the hilt of the sword, the arm and the helmet overhang. This dwarf might need support at his dagger in the back and on the left arm (and was resin printed).
However, with the proper design, there is sometimes no support needed. For example this pirate has no areas that need support for overhangs or free hanging areas.
## Printing speed
Printing miniatures and intricate parts is hard. I have set up an older, small TronXY with a 0.2 mm nozzle just to print small and detailed items, usually engineering models. I print them *slower* than normal (ca 40 mm/s, 20 mm for the outer shell).
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, support-structures, anycubic-i3-mega
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thread-11747 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11747 | Creating a two part label for storage boxes | 2020-01-12T05:09:11.163 | # Question
Title: Creating a two part label for storage boxes
I want to create two piece labels for storage containers. The main piece would be the “badge” which would have text cut out of it (e.g. “Paint”, “Electrical” etc.). The second piece would be a positive of the text which is would be in a different colour, and would fit inside the cut out on the badge. Because of the tolerance of 3D printers, I need to make the insert slightly smaller than the cut out. Initially, I thought I could just scale the insert but that would affect the letter spacing. Then I thought it would work if I could somehow taper the letters so they are slightly smaller at the top than the bottom. So my question is, how I do that. I did the original in OpenScad but I would try Fusion360 if that’s a better solution. Any and all suggestions are welcome. Thanks.
# Answer
> 2 votes
In OpenSCAD, apply the `offset` transformation to inset the letter outlines before extruding them. However you may find it works better to fill the sunken letter shapes with nail polish then remove the overflow with acetone; see my question & answer https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10872/11157.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Fusion 360 can be easily used to **alter the design**. It has a button under `Construction > Edit > Push/Pull` . Using this tool allows to select one or more surfaces and shift them all outside or inside as needed.
An alternative would be to include the **size difference in design**. By selecting a line or loop and then pressing `O` opens a menu that easily creates an outline shifted by a specified ammount.
**Tapering** the extrusion is also easy: When extruding, one can choose to extrude with a -1°, resulting in a smaller size on the far side from the extrusion. positive angles make the far side larger.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You will need to run test prints to see how your printer behaves with your choice of filaments. Then you'll know how much narrower the letter-lines (not the letter dimensions) need to be to fit.
The problem with that is one of making letters with narrow solid parts but without "shrinking" the open parts so that they fit into the badge receptacle regions. You can't just reduce the dimensions of the letters themselves.
Other than what Trish's answer suggests, I'd recommend either using a very small nozzle diameter and setting a narrow linewidth to reduce the "over-dimensioning" effects. Even better would be to identify the letters separately from the badge but keep them as a single STL and use a two-color printer (twin extruders, etc) to make the badge in one run.
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Tags: openscad, fusion360
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thread-8322 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8322 | How can I fix First Layer Adhesion with BL Touch - Tevo Tarantula | 2019-02-22T15:38:27.020 | # Question
Title: How can I fix First Layer Adhesion with BL Touch - Tevo Tarantula
Hope someone might have a view on where to go with this. My prints were coming out pretty good, but since installing a BL Touch to the printer I've been unable to get consistent first layer adhesion.
* Printer: Tevo Tarantula
* Firmware: Jim Brown Marlin
Settings:
* Speed: initial layer 30 mm/s others 60 mm/s
* Layer height: tried everything from 0.1 to 0.3 mm
* Temperatures
+ Nozzle temperature: 204 °C (stock hot end and nozzle)
+ Bed temperature: 60 °C
Printing Sunlu PLA+ filament onto Printbrite on the stock bed using bilinear Leveling (tried both 3 points and 5)
Z homes with the probe in the centre of the bed and the G29 command takes the readings ok.
I've configured Z offset so that you can barely move a sheet of paper between the bed and nozzle when you send G1 Z0. But it still looks like the nozzle is too far away from the bed when printing first layer.
I've managed to get a 20 mm calibration cube out of it, but that is inconsistent (the two cubes in the pictures were printed one after the other with no changes).
Anything bigger than that doesn't stick at the corners and ends up as a ball of spaghetti.
# Answer
I have the same kind of issues I'm also using Sunlu white filament 210 °C and bed at 60 °C on a CR-10S also original BLtouch v3.1
On some parts of the bed it's okay but in the middle and some corners it's too high and doesn't stick (really annoying). I bought the BLtouch to avoid this kind of issues.
I have printed many things with no issues and with this filament It's making some trouble.
Ok I have solved the issue, the problem is Sunlu pla+ filament.
It seems that their filament is really hard to adhere to bed.
I found on another forum that you need to increase bed temperature up to 70° and head to 220 °c at least for the few first layers and don't go under 215°.
also moving the head a bit lower to skish the filament on bed.
I tried and got much better adhesion.
Hope it will help other people
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, bltouch, tevo-tarantula
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thread-11771 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11771 | Adding a Bowden extruder to a direct drive setup | 2020-01-14T13:02:07.870 | # Question
Title: Adding a Bowden extruder to a direct drive setup
I currently have a single extruder (direct drive) Tronxy X8.
I am thinking about adding a second extruder, that I would use only occasionally. I really like the characteristics of the direct drive extruder, so I would not want to switch over to dual Bowden. Also adding the weight of a full second direct drive extruder for only occasional use does not seem useful.
Is it possible to use a direct drive extruder as main extruder and a (possibly detachable) bowden extruder as secondary extruder?
Is there anything in particular that I need to watch out for when mixing extruder types?
# Answer
I'm an amateur and I used dual extruder printers but never built any.
It's probably a good idea, take care about the purge, retractions distances that may vary. On the filament feed side there shouldn't be interference from the different flexibility. Still it maybe good to place one reel on one side and the other on the opposite.
Now the most complex thing is to make both nozzle not interfere. A technique is to rotate by few (like 5°) the dual setup to give few millimeter more to one of the two nozzles. If both heads are at the same height, you'll need to keep them hot, and avoid the passive one to leak. It would be good also (but not mandatory) to have a purge routine.
> -1 votes
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Tags: extruder, bowden
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thread-740 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/740 | Good (preferably free) Beginner Software for Part Creation? | 2016-03-13T17:15:35.327 | # Question
Title: Good (preferably free) Beginner Software for Part Creation?
What software is best for the basest of n00bs when it comes to 3D parts creation?
I have a heavy math background and know how to create explicit functions of volume, surface area, center of mass, etc. Ideally, I'd like a program that uses those strengths but I realize that most n00bs have a crippling math phobia so I'm not holding my breath.
I tried freeCAD once and made some headway but the next time I turned my computer on, it refused to open. It was just a weakling netbook that I don't even have in my possession anymore but the computer I'm currently using is rather slow and doesn't seem to have much memory left either, so I still need something lightweight.
tl;dr: Seeking a free, lightweight program to create .stl files that is good for n00bs that are **not** afraid of math.
# Answer
> 16 votes
I don't have a heavy math background, but enjoy using such skills when applicable.
If you've not yet explored OpenSCAD, you may find that it meets your qualifications. It's more or less a scripting/descriptive language "compiler" that takes ordinary text and converts it to your model design. I use quotes, because I'm not skilled enough to qualify it as a true compiler, although it works in a similar manner and may indeed be a compiler.
It meets another qualification of yours in that it's free and there's quite a supportive mailing list/forum for any questions or difficulties that arise. If you look on Thingiverse using OpenSCAD as a search term, you'll find others' code available for examination and integration into your own models.
For the folks who are not so much into the math and text and logic, there's a GUI of sorts for OpenSCAD called BlocksCAD that allows drag and drop of various modules in a manner akin to Scratch programming.
I'd been using OpenSCAD long enough that I found BlocksCAD to overly complicate the creation of models by obscuring details. It may be better suited for younger model makers in that respect.
Syntax and punctuation errors would be eliminated with BlocksCAD, while it's far too easy to create such errors in the editor for OpenSCAD. One gets used to it and error count quickly is reduced.
# Answer
> 4 votes
The software I began with was Tinkercad, it is a fully online solution that is *very* beginner friendly. The interface is trivial to use and there's a 15 minutes tutorial that guides you over everything the software has to offer to the common user.
Here is a screenshot of the interface and a part I made using the basic tools :
It works the following way : you are provided with a dozen basic shapes (cube, sphere, etc...) and you create your model using boolean combinations of those shapes and translation, rotation and scaling. That's for the base.
Then there is a very large collection of more complex shapes provided by the community (screw, stairs, tree) that tend to be very useful to create specific things and a very important aspect is that those shape usually have some parameter you can adjust at the creation of the object (say the thickness of the trunk and the number of branches of your tree).
The last increment of complexity is that those community objects are actually made using JavaScript (with their own API, it's not related to openjscad) and you can create your own objects by using their **interactive JavaScript interface**. That's when your programming and mathematical knowledge will be required.
As a small PS note: my personal taste is, depending on the part I want to make, to use either Tinkercad, Freecad or Openscad
# Answer
> 4 votes
I recommend Fusion 360 as it is free to use, full of tutorials and is super simple.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Blender is a free professional level application, where maths isn't particularly necessary but can be used to good effect, and its *minimum* requirements aren't all that excessive (my copy of Blender runs on a maxed out 20 year old Dell 380):
### Minimum (basic usage) hardware
* 32-bit dual core 2 GHz CPU with SSE2 support.
* 2 GB RAM
* 24 bits 1280×768 display
* Mouse or trackpad
* OpenGL 2.1 compatible graphics with 512 MB RAM
### Recommended hardware
* 64-bit quad core CPU
* 8 GB RAM
* Full HD display with 24 bit colour
* Three button mouse
* OpenGL 3.2 compatible graphics with 2 GB RAM
### Optimal (production-grade) hardware
* 64-bit eight core CPU
* 16 GB RAM
* Two full HD displays with 24 bit colour
* Three button mouse and graphics tablet
* Dual OpenGL 3.2 compatible graphics cards with 4 GB RAM
If you like coding, then Python and C libraries are available as well.
Also, there is a StackExchange site dedicated to Blender, which is useful.
---
As a comparison, from Best 3D Design/3D Modeling Software 2019 (15 of 30 are Free), this comparative list could be useful
```
Name Level OS Price Formats
3D Slash Beginner Windows, Mac, Linux, Raspberry Pi or Browser Free, 24$/year Premium 3dslash, obj, stl
LibreCAD Beginner Windows, macOS and Linux Free dxf, dwg
Photoshop CC Beginner Windows and Mac 142€/year 3ds, dae, kmz, obj, psd, stl, u3d
SculptGL Beginner Browser Free obj, ply, sgl, stl
SelfCAD Beginner Browser Free 30-day trial, 9.99$/month stl, mtl, ply, dae, svg
TinkerCAD Beginner Browser Free 123dx, 3ds, c4d, mb, obj, svg, stl
Clara.io Intermediate Browser Free, Premium from 100$/year 3dm, 3ds, cd, dae, dgn, dwg, emf, fbx, gf, gdf, gts, igs, kmz, lwo, rws, obj, off, ply, pm, sat, scn, skp, slc, sldprt, stp, stl, x3dv, xaml, vda, vrml, x_t, x, xgl, zpr
DesignSpark Intermediate Windows Freemium, 835$ (All Addons) rsdoc, dxf, ecad, idf, idb, emn, obj, skp, STL, iges, step
FreeCAD Intermediate Windows, Mac and Linux Free step, iges, obj, stl, dxf, svg, dae, ifc, off, nastran, Fcstd
MakeHuman Intermediate Windows, Mac, Linux Free dae, fbx, obj, STL
Meshmixer Intermediate Windows, Mac and Linux Free amf, mix, obj, off, stl
MoI Intermediate Windows and Mac 266€ 3ds, 3dm, dxf, fbx, igs, lwo, obj, skp, stl, stp and sat
nanoCAD Intermediate Windows Freemium, 180$/year sat, step, igs, iges, sldprt, STL, 3dm, dae, dfx, dwg, dwt, pdf, x_t, x_b, xxm_txt, ssm_bin
OpenSCAD Intermediate Windows, Mac and Linux Free dxf, off, stl
Sculptris Intermediate Windows and Mac Free obj, goz
SketchUp Intermediate Windows and Mac Free, 240$ Pro dwg, dxf, 3ds, dae, dem, def, ifc, kmz, stl
3ds Max Professional Windows 1505$/year, Edu. licenses av. stl, 3ds, ai, abc, ase, asm, catproduct, catpart, dem, dwg, dxf, dwf, flt, iges, ipt, jt, nx, obj, prj, prt, rvt, sat, skp, sldprt, sldasm, stp, vrml, w3d xml
AutoCAD Professional Windows and Mac 1575$/year dwg, dxf, pdf
Blender Professional Windows, Mac and Linux Free 3ds, dae, fbx, dxf, obj, x, lwo, svg, ply, stl, vrml, vrml97, x3d
Cinema 4D Professional Windows, macOS 3695$ 3ds, dae, dem, dxf, dwg, x, fbx, iges, lwf, rib, skp, stl, wrl, obj
modo Professional Windows, macOS, Linux 1799$ lwo, abc, obj, pdb, 3dm, dae, fbx, dxf, x3d, geo, stl
Mudbox Professional Windows and Mac 85€/year fbx, mud, obj
Onshape Professional Windows, Mac, Linux, iOS, Android 2400€/year, free and price reduced business version available sat, step, igs, iges, sldprt, stl, 3dm, dae, dfx, dwg, dwt, pdf, x_t, x_b, xxm_txt, ssm_bin
Poser Professional Windows, Mac Standard 129.99$, Pro 349.99$ cr2, obj, pz2
Rhino3D Professional Windows and Mac 495€ Educational, 995€ Commercial 3dm, 3ds, cd, dae, dgn, dwg, emf, fbx, gf, gdf, gts, igs, kmz, lwo, rws, obj, off, ply, pm, sat, scn, skp, slc, sldprt, stp, stl, x3dv, xaml, vda, vrml, x_t, x, xgl, zpr
ZBrush Professional Windows and Mac 400€ Educational, 720€ Single User dxf, goz, ma, obj, stl, vrml, x3d
CATIA Industrial Windows 7180€; Edu. licenses av. 3dxml, catpart, igs, pdf, stp, stl, vrml
Fusion 360 Industrial Windows and Mac 499.80€/year, Edu. licenses av. catpart, dwg, dxf, f3d, igs, obj, pdf, sat, sldprt, stp
Inventor Industrial Windows and Mac 1935$/year 3dm, igs, ipt, nx, obj, prt, rvt, sldprt, stl, stp, x_b, xgl
Solidworks Industrial Windows 9950€, Edu. licenses available 3dxml, 3dm, 3ds, 3mf, amf, dwg, dxf, idf, ifc, obj, pdf, sldprt, stp, stl, vrml
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
OpenSCAD sounds like the best fit for the original poster given his math background but I think SketchUp is probably the easiest software for most beginners to use for basic part creation.
There are two (or three) plugins I would recommend for anyone looking to use it to produce STL https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/solid-inspector https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/solid-inspector%C2%B2
The first one allows export to STL The second and third check models to ensure they're solid. This is important for 3D printing as slicers have issues when models have holes in them.
One more tool I would recommend to the beginner is http://www.netfabb.com/basic.php
It also checks over STL files to ensure there won't be any problems slicing them.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I am using DesignSpark Mechanical. It's super cool and easy to use.
DesignSpark Mechanical Download Page
# Answer
> 2 votes
I've had good luck using MS 3D Builder. Most of my thingiverse models were designed with 3D Builder. Depending on your Windows and Office installations, *this program may already be on your computer*, but otherwise you install it via the Windows Store. This program may also make good use of your math skills; I've done more trigonometry getting dimensions right for my models than all other areas of my life combined.
MeshMixer is another good free option. It's significantly more powerful than 3D Builder and many other free options, but I've found it much harder to get comfortable using. The visualization, especially, just hasn't been as clean, often making sharp edges appear to be rounded on the screen. Still, and I know and desire the power it offers, and I'll occasionally open it up for specific things. If nothing else, it's good for measuring/verifying the thickness of a section, and sometimes I can use it to repair models botched by other programs.
Finally, I'll bring up OpenSCAD again. OpenSCAD effectively lets you write a program to generate your models. As such, it's especially good when creating things you will want to do more than once, where you'll tweak or customize the initial part for later uses. One way you can achieve re-use like this is creating a library of partial-designs or raw shapes which you can then resize/stretch/etc and add or mix into other parts using the other programs. The other area where OpenSCAD really shines is in prototyping. When you discover just this one section of a part shoud have been a couple millimeters longer after the initial print, it's much easier to adjust this with OpenSCAD than with many of the other options.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I would add OnShape.com to the list. The only downside of a free account is that your designs are publicly viewable.
I would also add support for OpenSCAD. It is my go-to program for difficult problems, especially where being able to script something is far more efficient that dozens of clicks and careful GUI actions.
---
Tags: software, print-preparation
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thread-11775 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11775 | Print from SD and connect to serial host at the same time | 2020-01-15T06:05:27.030 | # Question
Title: Print from SD and connect to serial host at the same time
I am wondering if it is possible to print with a 3D printer from an SD card and connect to a serial host at the same time. I want to use the Marlin `M118` serial print command to trigger custom functions running on a Raspberry Pi. The RPi would be connected to the printer over serial but would not be sending G-code. Is this possible?
My printer is the Monoprice Mini Delta. It runs a Marlin based firmware and I can install standard Marlin on it if necessary.
# Answer
> 3 votes
This can be done, but you need to have the right order of operations. Octoprint relies on such a setup.
* Set up the serial connection **first**, as sending the connect signal from your terminal or Raspberry to Marlin triggers the printer to reboot.
* After having the connection established, start the printjob either via the control buttons or the remote console (for example: Octoprint or Repetier Server, running on your Raspberry)
Note that you have to make sure not to dis- and reconnect the raspberry during print, as that might trigger a reboot of the printer!
---
Tags: marlin, electronics, repetier, serial-connection
--- |
thread-11657 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11657 | Which material "creeps" (plastic deformation) the least (or nothing at all) under pressure after being printed? | 2020-01-02T16:07:03.003 | # Question
Title: Which material "creeps" (plastic deformation) the least (or nothing at all) under pressure after being printed?
I would like to build a standing shelf where the supports which hold each successive plank are 3D printed (to obtain special shapes).
However, I read that PLA flows under constant stress/pressure. Still, this doesn't stop the author of the article from using PLA for a hanging shelf, which obviously is subjected to constant negative pressure.
Which material suffers the least from plasticity/non elastic deformation under stress?
Answers with data for multiple materials are welcome.
I found that the phenomenon is called "creep" and is related to ISO 899, but I couldn't find any data for the common filament plastics and I don't know the theory behind it, so I'm not sure whether it's unavoidable or it appears after a threshold stress is reached.
**Information**: it's a living room shelf which will hold books and other stuff and is supposed to last a decade. I will of course add a safety factor and I could even fix the planks to the wall (in hidden places), but ideally the 3D printed material should have NO creep.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your question can not be answered theoretically -- only empirically.
You need to print some trial brackets with materials of interest and measure them. The question is: under what conditions should you test them?
The problem is that creep involves both compression and tension, and the behavior may be different. It is also impossible to fully translate material specifications into component behavior without a really good model that includes the details of the infill, adhesion to peripheries, and all the microscopic detail of a real 3D-printed part.
The problem with typical PLA may be the low temperature. Raising the temperature of a normal PLA printed object to 160°F (70°C) softens it to the point of nearly being limp. I have used this for force-fitting PLA parts by warming a pot of water and placing parts in it for a few moments. That temperature is hotter than your room, but a hot summer day in the sunshine could soften the part to the point of failure.
For anything load bearing, I would want a material with a higher plastic temperature.
There are PLA formulations which are annealed after printing. This is claimed to allow the PLA to slowly recrystalize and become both stronger and usable at higher temperatures. I don't have experience with this.
Depending on your printer, you can also consider using a higher temperature filament, such as ABS or PC (polycarbonate). PET-G is a little better than PLA, but it softens at a lower temperature than ABS.
As important as the material itself is the anisotrophy of the printer parts. Be sure to print the parts so that the major stresses are along the strongest axes, typically X and Y, and not along the weaker Z asis. Choose your infill to contribute to the strength, and use plenty of it, or design the part so that the infill is not intended to contribute to the strength.
---
Tags: material, print-strength
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thread-11778 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11778 | What precautions to take when flashing Marlin 2.0? | 2020-01-15T16:59:27.450 | # Question
Title: What precautions to take when flashing Marlin 2.0?
I was just informed via a comment that the TH3D Unified firmware a version of Marlin that's no longer updated and considered obsolete (1.9.X in this case) and that, since I'm flashing my firmware to fix my default e-step settings, I might as well flash a non-obsolete firmware.
However, something in the back of my mind is telling me that I can't use Marlin 2.0 because of some hardware limitation.
I'm using the Creality CR-10S printer (with the Creality 2.0 board, I believe) which is an 8-bit CPU. What should I look out for before upgrading to Marlin 2.0?
Marlin's Install website suggests that 8-bit AVR printers can use it (flashing via Arduino IDE). SO I guess I'm double checking before I do something that could potentially brick my printer.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It wasn't advised to use the version 2.x because it was in development for 32-bit micro processors. Now that it has been released as the official version, you can use it for 8-bit micro processors.
But, it totally depends on the amount of options in Marlin you activate (bed leveling, advanced menu, `M5xx`, etc.). Luckily you can see how large the installation is after you have built it e.g. in PlatformIO. Also, in the configuration files frequently is mentioned how much extra storage activating an option costs (search for `PROGMEM` in the Marlin sources). Unless you want all options active, you'll be fine. I'm running it on an AVR (MEGA2560) for a CoreXY with bed leveling and some more options; it runs fine.
---
Tags: marlin, creality-cr-10
--- |
thread-10508 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10508 | TPE warping problems | 2019-07-06T21:38:16.237 | # Question
Title: TPE warping problems
I'm attempting to print some flexible TPE filament. But I failed to imagine TPE was this difficult to print.
Specs of the shop-brand filament:
Red 1.75 mm TPE (+-0.05 mm).
Hardness: 45D.
Print temperature: 220-260 °C with 0-95 °C bed.
I'm trying to print this on my original Prusa i3 MK3S with powder coated sheet with 0.20 mm layer with PrusaSlicer 2.0.0.
What happens? After 3 or 4 layers, the print warps a lot and detaches from the plate. The object is 40 mm long. The next image shows the print detaching from the build plate as well as a skirt of two layers height:
I've tried warmer/colder, more/less fan, faster/slower. I went down to 1 mm<sup>3</sup>/s, which is 7 mm/s. For reference, PLA prints 15 mm<sup>3</sup>/s.
I readjusted my z-cal, and when I test print a first layer with TPE it's difficult to remove from the bed.
I also attempted the glue stick on smooth PEI sheet. Worked until the first few layers of infill, then it still warped.
Do I have bad filament with too much shrink, poor settings or is this 45D just too soft for my MK3s?
*Bonus pile of failures:*
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have not given up yet!
And I figured it out, I think. I tried many things, dried the spool at 60C for an hour, Simplifiy3D's slicer, but eventually playing around I found a setting that resulting in no warping *during* the print.
Final solution:
\- Original Prusa Powder Coated sheet.
\- Changed the nozzle to 0.6 mm.
\- 20 mm/s print speed, slow.
\- 260 C nozzle temp, make it liquid to get best bed adhesion.
\- 90 C bed, this keeps it soft at the bottom. Do not change the temperature, as this will detach the print.
\- **0.95 Extrusion Multiplier instead of 1.2**
The extrusion multiplier did the trick. It kept pushing slightly too much stuff out, especially on the bottom layers causing ridges that is will pull on the next layer.
It did still warp a bit, I found that this stuff shrinks about 2% when cooled, and when you start infill, it will pull itself loose. Hence the 90C bed temp.
It still prints poorly, but it did print without creating "the blob"!
# Answer
> 1 votes
I had a devil of a time getting this "greasy" tpe85a to print from filaments.ca. Buried in the comments there:
85A TPE Warping issue:
Mesa K wrote on Filaments.ca to try the following:
> "Adhesion: this stuff does not stick to Prusa's smooth PEI sheets at all, it also did not stick to masking tape either. The solution I found was to tape a piece of printer paper to the bed (I used packing tape for this, but I would recommend masking tape or something else easier to remove). I didn't have a glue stick or kapton tape to try, but those may work too."
That's right, printing on a sheet of printer paper creates amazing adhesion for this stuff. I suspect it to be a bit of a "greasy", oily filament at temp. When you drop a piece of popcorn on a sheet of paper, it leaves a grease slick. It is a permanent stain. So if this filament is a bit greasy (but much higher viscosity than melted butter ;-\] ), literally, at temp, the paper would actually act as an absorbent material, and even as a degreaser on the point of contact with the filament.
I am printing a phone case. I assume you have used a sheet of paper on top of this sheet of paper and leveled the bed perfectly using the paper as feeler gauge method, or all the rest of this advice is useless. Because of the close tolerances I use on the first layer, this is critical.
Tips: Print a huge 1 cm brim in case you have to do last ditch intervention on the print. The brim is to prevent warping from the contact surface, but also as a place to tape the print down from the topside in case it decides to warp no matter what you try.
Extrusion: I am using a creality CR10V2 I converted to direct drive with a 0.2 mm nozzle. I replaced the stock stiff spring with a pair of ballpoint pen springs I hotglued together. ( I am kind of a barbarian.....) They put just enough tension on the tensioner wheel to reliably push the filament without it sticking to the drive gear. (Single drive gear extruder)
Set Cura to extrude at 112 % or in that range. It will not blob at that rate, but will have a nice fat line laid down. It created blobs for me at 115 % extrusion, so avoid going to 145 % like I tried at one point. Nice to know my ballpoint pen printer can do that....
The initial layer height will be set to 0.12 mm, with following layers set to 0.19 mm.
The wall width will be 0.2 mm and that "excess" in the above calc fills gaps and binds two side by side lines together.
This stuff also contracts if the adhesion sucks, so extrude extra and it will not contract lengthwise so badly.
Heat:
Extruder: 220 °C. My filament seems to get more plastic-y at higher temps. Lower temps made a softer, more flexible material. Also, printing at a lower temp reduces contraction related warping.
Heat Bed: 85 °C. Keep it there the whole print. This stuff likes the warm and contracts less if kept warm the whole print. I tried starting at 85 °C and letting it cool after the first layer to 40 °C, and all 4 sides came loose from the painters tape surface. Keep it hot!
Increasing your fan speed seems to help it contract as soon as it is laid down, laying a bead that has already contracted somewhat by the time it is embedded in the layer.
Other tips: Printing infill at 25 mm/s was too fast. I have it making nice prints at 18 mm/s throughout the print. TPE prints slow. Fails print slowly too. Lots of beautiful failures on the path to success... Knowledge gained from watching the machine print.
The above guidelines will help you get prints without glue, sometimes with a bit of tape around the brim if it is really cranky. Good luck, very tricky material to work with on large surface area prints.
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Tags: warping, tpe
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thread-11782 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11782 | How to 3D print an ID card | 2020-01-16T05:55:41.613 | # Question
Title: How to 3D print an ID card
Say I wanted to print a plastic credit card like shape (like these), but with a QR code engraved. How could I do that for cheap? You can buy an "ID card printer" for $1,000-1,500 on Amazon, but that's way too much for printing one or two cards. Maybe down the road this would be a good option, but I kind of like the option of 3D printing the card from scratch, so the QR code bleeds halfway or all the way through the card, rather than just being printed on the surface. Is this possible for cheap? Maybe like this but not as fancy. Mainly (I'm new to all this) I am wondering what machine would accomplish this for low price yet good quality, and what other equipment I would need.
Basically, what printer is best for this type of task?
# Answer
> 3 votes
**FDM printer?**
If you want to print one, maybe you should outsource it (let it print the tag on both sides), even the most affordable printers are in the \\$100 - \\$150 price range. If you want a printer and use it also to create ID tags, you could go for an FDM printer. Considering your request of having the tag inside (and through) the ID-card you need a dual filament option (one or two nozzle arrangement). If the tag can sit on top you can print it with a filament change with a single filament single nozzle printer. But, don't expect to get crystal clear prints (see experience printing signs below)!
**Alternatives**
As an alternative, you could print a blank PLA ID-card and laser mark the tag onto both sides, see e.g. this video.
If it is a small batch you can also consider printing/lasering stickers and stick these onto blank ID cards.
---
**From experience**
I've done some signs with black letters on a white background for "on-lay", inlay and through arrangements using a more expensive (for home use) dual extruder 3D printer (Ultimaker 3 Extended about \\$5000,-) with PETG, but the results were not very satisfying. Usually the black smears out on or in the white no matter tweaking the options. Considering the size of an ID-card, the amount of tag squares, this is even more likely to happen when you print at that small size (the signs I printed were sized similar to the "A5" paper standard).
From my experience I would say that a 3D printer may not be the best solution for your task.
# Answer
> 2 votes
One option to create the tag you require can be accomplished with a single extruder and a bit of manual intervention.
I've performed the sequence of steps from a Thingiverse creation that resulted in a box lid for a gift card box. It's a single layer of multiple colors placed on the print bed, then consolidated with a backing layer.
For your card objective, the single layer provides the contrast and you can determine easily how thick you wish the remaining portion to print.
The detail level is reasonably good, limited to the printer nozzle and specifications. A glass bed or similarly smooth surface bed will provide optimum results. As 0scar suggests, a 3D printer in the US$100-150 will likely suffice, but check reviews and forums for troublesome products of such a low price.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, 2d
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thread-8748 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8748 | X carriage "vibrates" on small segments | 2019-04-21T08:16:20.770 | # Question
Title: X carriage "vibrates" on small segments
Following the question I asked here: Replace X axis motor with different model
I have a problem with my new motor. My X-axis is now moved by a 17HS3401S motor, instead of a 42SHD0217-24B motor.
On small segments, like when I need to print an arc with a lot of small straight lines, my printhead "vibrates" instead of having a smooth movement. It seems it stops for a very short amount of time before trying to move again. On longer travels there is no problem.
Do you know if it's because of the motor, or because of something else? (Vref not set properly maybe?)
# Answer
The overall torque, and thus the incremental torque is less with your new stepper, this may result in less smooth operation because of moving the weight of the carriage (e.g. when you have a direct extruder mounted on the X carriage).
You could be facing skipping steps, resulting in less accurate prints. Maybe the Vref has not been adjusted correctly, or the stepper is just not working for your application.
> 1 votes
# Answer
One other possibility is that the printer is "gap-filling". When there is a space between walls that isn't enough for infill or a roof layer, the slicer can be told to fill the gap, and depending on gap size it often does this with a zig-zaggy motion of the extruder. This is normal; if you wish, you can turn it off, however be aware this can cause those gaps to be visible in top surfaces of your prints.
> 0 votes
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Tags: stepper
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