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thread-11038 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11038 | What causes these blobby corners | 2019-09-19T01:26:06.760 | # Question
Title: What causes these blobby corners
Contrary to a lot of other corner related problems (where the corners are bulging), I seem to have a different problem where the corners (ONLY) seem to stick out and appear blobby in the x/y plane. This only happens for corners/edges with a fillet radius greater than 3-4mm and only in the x/y plane. Anything smaller than that radius (such a sharp corner/edge) seems to be fine.
Any ideas what could be causing this?
**Conditions**
* CR-10s
* Ultimaker Cura v4.2.1
* Material: ABS
* Nozzle size: 0.4mm
* Bed temp: 80 °C (I can't go any higher than this)
* Nozzle temp: 250 °C
**What I've tried already**
* increasing nozzle temp from 240 to 250 °C (seemed to help slightly?)
* reduced flow rate from 100 % to 80 % - had a negative effect on overall print quality
Thank in advance for any ideas/suggestions
# Answer
I suspect you are printing through a usb or network connection, and the communication rate it's to slow for any of many reasons. A curve consists of many tiny linear movements, each requiring a command exchange between the PC and printer.
If you can, try printing from an sd card plugged into the printer (I'd the printer is so equipped).
This could be worse if the uses a Bowden extruder, since there is now compression and windup in the filament.
> 1 votes
# Answer
150 °C is way too low for pretty much any material commonly used in 3D printing, especially ABS. I'm quite surprised anything comes out of the nozzle at all rather than just griding in the extruder gear. Most ABS filament manufacturers recommend a nozzle temperature in the range 210-250 °C. From your images, it looks like you have a lot of serious extrusion problems aside from the corners that should all go away if you print with the right temperature.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, calibration, abs
--- |
thread-6618 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6618 | Would adding fiberglass packaging tape to a bowden tube be beneficial? | 2018-08-09T19:22:11.633 | # Question
Title: Would adding fiberglass packaging tape to a bowden tube be beneficial?
I came across this suggestion on the klipper github, https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/permalink/192106034761003/. In order to reduce the stretching in the bowden tube you can add fiberglass packaging tape lengthwise along the tube. This would decrease the elasticity while still allowing the plastic filament to run through it. Allowing you to reduce the retraction length and have better control over the amount of plastic being extruded.
Is there any reasons that this would not work or actually decrease the performance of the bowden tube?
# Answer
> 6 votes
The question seems to be built on a false premise, namely that the major extrude/retract errors in a Bowden design come from tube stretch. The PTFE tube is *not* significantly elastic, actually it is reasonably stiff so there is minimal scope for improvement here.
A longer tube *will* contribute to degraded precision, but slack in the filament/tube gap is roughly as significant as stretch (and filament compression). Constraining the tube path may help marginally (but there is no need to 'bond' the tube). There is not much you can to to reduce the gap between filament and tube, but this will dominate the error for a long tube.
The most obvious weak point is the clip used to secure the tube at each end. I saw a review of a recent Prusa design where high quality clips were called out as making a big improvement to securing each end of the tube.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The most common setup is 1.75 mm filament inside PTFE tube with 2 mm internal diameter and 4 mm outside diameter. The 4 mm outside diameter goes inside pneumatic push in 4 mm tube connector with 1/8 BSP thread that goes somewhere like E3D extruder.
It is very arguable if PTFE tube not significantly elastic. Apart from elasticity the filament some kind of compressing inside forming the sinus like line along the tube. And it has several places where it pushes at the tube wall and this deforms it slightly from circular to ellipse shape. All these effects accumulates with the length of the tube.
But in theory all these have minor effect if the feed rate is around the same value (the first order forces equalize and effect could be eliminated with proper retraction value). The bigger effect will be if feed rate changes and as result internal compression in the tube will vary and as result the melted filament will go out slightly off time. And this will affect quality but slightly and in some places of the print. Basically the motion variance will do some kind of coloring of the print.
I am personally recommend to use reinforced tube. The best tube I found is 5 mm bike gear outer cable. It is steel reinforced with internal PTFE lining that perfectly suits 1.75 mm filament. Also it has outer layer of some kind of plastic that fit really well inside 5 mm push fit connector. The only problem is that 5 mm push fit connectors not common but you could find them on ebay as I did. Another advantage of this cable is that you could cut out couple of centimetres of outer plastic at one end and the result steel shell will be 4 mm in diameter and goes deep inside E3D extruder. The steel layer of this cable is actually spring and it makes this cable really perfect for 3D printer.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The Young modulus of PTFE is about 500 MPa and the surface of a PTFE tube for 1.75 mm filament is about 9.4 mm<sup>2</sup>.
The Young modulus of PLA is variable, between 350 and 2800 MPa, let's say 2000 MPa. The filament surface is 2.4 mm<sup>2</sup>.
The ratio is about 1 because the surface ratio is 4x and the Young's modulus ratio 1/4x. As result, the stretching of PTFE is about similar to the compression of PLA inside it (of course they sum, since they go in opposite directions). PLA is very stiff: other materials will compress much more and make the stretching of PTFE less relevant.
However the filament is thinner than the tube, so it will curl a bit, which increases its contraction much more! It is likely that even for PLA the stretching of the PTFE is much less relevant than the compression of the filament.
Anyway, fiberglass has a Young's modulus of about 80 GPa (150 times PTFE), but its thickness is what? 0.1 mm? That bring a surface of 2 mm<sup>2</sup> at most (and I'm very optimistic, more likely much less than 1 mm<sup>2</sup>). Fiberglass helps to strengthen PTFE by a factor of surely less than 30, more likely 10 or less (will the glue hold or slide?).
As result, PTFE, from a contribution to the overall stretching/compression of 50 % (in fact, much less due to curling), will be reduced to about 5 %. It is good, but this is an optimistic value.
---
Tags: bowden
--- |
thread-11051 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11051 | Nail polish remover that won't dissolve ABS? | 2019-09-20T02:17:29.713 | # Question
Title: Nail polish remover that won't dissolve ABS?
In Finishing sunken text in 3D prints, I found that nail polish works great for filling sunken lettering in 3D-printed parts, but the procedure for using it requires removing the excess from the non-sunken surface using nail polish remover. For PLA, acetone works fine, but with ABS the acetone will obviously dissolve the ABS too (and from my experience trying to get polish off plastic toys made of ABS, it mixes the polish with the ABS really nastily in the process).
Is there an alternate nail polish remover that's suitable for use on ABS? Ethyl acetate based ones, maybe?
# Answer
> 5 votes
First of all, Nail Polish comes in 2 types: Acetone based, and acetone-free. The latter is based on Ethyl Acetate filled up with alcohol and water. Sadly, Ethyl Acetate also dissolves ABS, so it is not an option. However, the acetone-free nail polish remover can be used to smooth PLA to some degree. Anyhow, we look for something that is putting Nail polish into solution but not ABS, so it can neither be among the able ketones (like acetone), nor an acetate ester, nor be aniline.
Next up, Turpentine. Turpentine is a crazy mix of chemicals that we know to be able to turn most glues to goop and remove nail polish too. Sadly, Turpentine too can dissolve ABS, and it has been used in this fashion to create ABS Slurry/Cement as a bonding agent.
But what do we actually have in nail polish that needs to be put in solution? Well, to a good part, most nail polishes are a Nitrocellulose lacquer. To keep it in solution, Ethyl Acetate (already ruled out) and Butyl Acetate are used. Sadly, that is an acetate ester, so nope, no gains here.
So, we are left with one way: **Mechanical removal**. Nail polish is known to bond quite ok, but conventional nail polish lacquer (not the gel stuff) also is known to chip, and we can use that. Letting the lacquer harden and then using a sharp knife o remove most of the surplus, then polishing it up to very fine 1000 grit sandpaper is a possible way to go without needing to open the chemical toolbox. For the last postprocessing step, very short exposure to acetone vapor should restore the surface and put it to shine, including the lacquer.
## Other fillers?
An alternative might be other filler materials. For a white filling, white Valejo putty might work, which is an acrylic bound marble dust filler, which can be wiped away with a wet cloth. It doesn't shrink, so gives flat surfaces. It could be colored with other acrylic paints, but the base color is marble-white.
Tamiya Basic Putty is based on Ethylbenzene and often used with ABS models as a gap filler. It is available in several colors. As a downside, it does shrink a little during bonding. Ethylbenzene is not a solvent but incidentally, the same stuff that is used for making ABS so should be safe for the model.
---
Tags: abs, print-material, post-processing
--- |
thread-10972 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10972 | Can you recommend professional 3D metal printing books? | 2019-09-05T11:55:50.727 | # Question
Title: Can you recommend professional 3D metal printing books?
I am a fresh graduate student in 3D metal printing. My undergraduate major is mechanical engineering. Later research will focus on the process of metal 3D printing. I hope that you can recommend some excellent 3D metal printing books for learning.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is a free ebook that I have perused briefly which it looks interesting, and it is free (did I say that already?)
Three other books that *might* be of interest are:
# Answer
> 0 votes
Just wanted to add that ultimately you get a lot more quick practical knowledge from your machine's manufacturer or DMLS service provider so don't forget to look at publications from the industry leaders. They have incentive to make sure you succeed when using their products. Just beware the salesmanship.
For example Stratasys: https://www.stratasysdirect.com/resources/design-guidelines/direct-metal-laser-sintering
I believe there's also a very similar guide from Xometry and others. Gpi also had some good insights on some of the more exotic materials.
---
Tags: metal-printing, literature
--- |
thread-11059 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11059 | G-code commands gets multiplied by random number | 2019-09-22T13:19:22.647 | # Question
Title: G-code commands gets multiplied by random number
The G-code sent from Octopi to my printer gets multiplied at the end of every row. The corresponding code out of Simplify3D do not have that multiplication.
This results in a always Max speed print.
1 month ago all worked perfect.
Have anyone seen this problem before? How to solve?
# Answer
I believe that everything after the "\*" is a comment. From the random variation, I speculate that the comments for Octoprint are a check code. For other host programs, it is a sequence number.
@oscar linked to a previous answer in a comment which shows that it is a checksum. I will need to check the next time I run Repetier Host, but that seemed to be a sequence number. Please see Oscar's comment (and upvote it).
> 0 votes
---
Tags: g-code
--- |
thread-11062 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11062 | Reprogram Marlin to assign endstop pins to arbitrary tasks [Arduino Mega] | 2019-09-23T13:57:16.150 | # Question
Title: Reprogram Marlin to assign endstop pins to arbitrary tasks [Arduino Mega]
Can someone point me out an appropriate entry code for this task in Marlin source code?
# Answer
Apparently, given one
* has already enabled `USE_<AXIS>_PLUG` (for example `<AXIS> = XMIN`) in Marlin's `Configuration.h`,
* one can add an additional `define` (for example `<AXIS>_ENDSTOP_CUSTOM`) in `Configuration.h` and
* make this block the `else` statement in an `<AXIS>_ENDSTOP_CUSTOM` existence check, with the positive case being your arbitrary task.
The function that gets executed in the standard case in the linked block is `PROCESS_ENDSTOP`, so cloning it would be a good starting point to make a `PROCESS_ENDSTOP_CUSTOM` task, too.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, endstop
--- |
thread-3233 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3233 | Calculating the estimated print time of an already sliced file | 2016-12-20T14:20:13.200 | # Question
Title: Calculating the estimated print time of an already sliced file
I started to write an application that calculates the estimated total print time from the G-code file for an already sliced model.
The program works and it's pretty accurate.
It works as follows:
1. It scans the entire G-code file to identify all of the movements
2. It calculates the time for each move by dividing segment distance by the speed in mm/s.
Let's assume this is the G-code:
```
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z0.200 F5400.000
G1 X158.878 Y27.769 E6.65594 F900.000
```
This is the calculation it does:
```
totalTime = 0
# G28 ; home all axes
currentX = 0 mm
currentY = 0 mm
currentZ = 0 mm
# G1 Z0.200 F5400.000
newZ = 0.2 mm
mmPerSecond = 5400 / 60 = 90 mm/s
deltaZ = newZ - currentZ = 0.2 - 0 = 0.2 mm
segmentLength = deltaZ = 0.2 mm
moveTime = segmentLength / mmPerSecond = 0.2 / 90 = 0.002 s
totalTime = totalTime + moveTime = 0 + 0.002 = 0.002 s
# G1 X158.878 Y27.769 E6.65594 F900.000
newX = 158.878 mm
newY = 27.769 mm
mmPerSecond = 900 / 60 = 15 mm/s
deltaX = newX - currentX = 158.878 - 0 = 158.878 mm
deltaY = newY - currentY = 27.769 - 0 = 27.769 mm
segmentLength = square_root(deltaX² + deltaY²) = 161.287 mm
moveTime = deltaZ / mmPerSecond = 161.287 / 15 = 10.755 s
totalTime = totalTime + moveTime = 0.002 + 10.755 = 10.757 s
```
In this example, the print will take approximately 10.7 seconds.
More generally, the formula used is, for each movement:
```
moveTime = segmentLength / mmPerSecond
```
By summing up all the move times, we have the total estimated print time.
I've seen that some forums state that the 3D print time also depends on some settings on the 3D printer, especially Acceleration X, Acceleration Y, Acceleration Z, Jerk, and Z-Jerk.
I'd like to make it possible to use those values to more accurately calculate print time; however, I don't understand how those values affect the move time:
1. How should Acceleration and Jerk be considered; and, how do they speed up or slow down the print time?
2. How should I edit my formula in order to include Acceleration and Jerk in the print time calculation?
# Answer
First of all, there are some nice open source analyzers written in JavaScript that you can use online, or read the source to, at https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/ and http://gcode.ws/. Their predictions don't fully match actual printer firmware, but they do a reasonably close job, and reading them would be informative.
Basically, the story behind acceleration and jerk is that you can't change the velocity (speed or direction) of the print head instantaneously. It takes time to speed up and slow down. Acceleration is the max rate at which the velocity of the print head can change. Jerk is something of a misnomer/hack, and is the max fake-instantaneous change in velocity allowed at the junction of two segments/curves. The point of jerk is to avoid choppy motion when moving along a curve made up of many segments by accelerating/decelerating at each tiny corner. Note that there are two sets of settings for both acceleration and jerk:
* a maximum absolute value (3D vector length) that frequently changed as part of the gcode in order to use different acceleration profiles for print moves vs travel moves, walls vs infill, etc.
* per-axis absolute values (standard 1D absolute value) for the limitations of the machine, that are usually set in the printer's settings or the start gcode profile for your printer and never changed.
Movement is constrained to always respect both sets of settings.
Printer firmware uses acceleration and jerk settings along with *lookahead* at upcoming motion commands to decide how to actually operate the motors. When it starts a motion, it has to accelerate up to the configured max velocity within the acceleration constraints. It also has to start slowing back down midway through unless it knows the next motion is going to continue in the exact same direction; how much it has to slow down depends on the difference in the vectors of motion. If the next motion is going to be in approximately the same direction, it may be able to avoid slowing down by using the jerk allowance to make an "instantaneous" change of velocity at the corner. Only if you have long (relative to speed) linear or approximately linear motions will you ever actually reach the requested speed.
So, to estimate print time, you need to *model* this. Keep track of print head velocity while processing/simulating the gcode, and for each motion command, compute velocity as a function of time using the acceleration limits (accelerating at the max rate they allow). You also need to figure out the final velocity you want to end the motion with in order to be able to start the next motion command, and a point to start decelerating if necessary to reach that.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I have tried looking into the printer firmware to see how the *Acceleration* setting affects the machine movement. From what I could tell, *Acceleration* seemed to be implemented differently depending on what firmware I looked at and was also affected by what the settings used on the printer were. I didn't look any further because writing different rules for every different firmware seemed like too much trouble. Maybe someone that knows more about this would know if most firmware uses the same calculations.
I suspect that the acceleration setting will not make a lot of difference to the time that the print takes. They haven't seemed to make a difference on the small prints that I have done printing with slow speeds. If you were printing larger prints at faster speeds that had long paths where the nozzle had time to accelerate and decelerate then I suspect you would notice a bigger difference with the time.
I have found that the biggest error between the predicted time and the actual time has been the time the machine spends processing the instructions. When printing a model that has a lot of short movements that need to be sent to the printer and they need to be processed and calculated by the printer, I have noticed the printer will pause for a fraction of a second. It is not long enough to see a difference in the printers movements, but it is noticeable enough to hear. I suspect that on cheaper printers this would cause a bigger error than the acceleration.
If someone can find out how the acceleration settings are calculated by the printer and what G-code command can be used to get the acceleration settings out of the printer, I would be really interested in knowing more about this.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: g-code, estimation, acceleration
--- |
thread-11064 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11064 | Prusa i3, MK3: Firmware updated to 3.8.0. Display shows white blocks | 2019-09-24T14:40:07.727 | # Question
Title: Prusa i3, MK3: Firmware updated to 3.8.0. Display shows white blocks
About the printer:
* Prusa I3 MK3 \[Sintron\]
* Arduino Mega 2560 (just replaced)
* Replaced LCD / Smart controller
* FIRMWARE 3.8.0
Steps I have already tried:
* Replaced faulty Arduino
* **Failed** to flash firmware with PrusaSlicer
> avrdude-slic3r: Could not open port: /dev/cu.usbmodem1421
* Connected using Pronterface
* Replaced LCD Display / Smart Controller
I replaced the Arduino on my I3 MK3 and have tried to flash firmware V 3.8.0. The AVRDUDE logs in Prusaslicer say the flash succeed. I haven't gotten any response from the printer. I also replaced the LCD display / Smart Interface to see if it was faulty.
The screen displays the same block-bar pattern. The heat bed starts to hear up, as well as the extruder tip, the extruder fan also runs. There is no response from the dial on the LCD display / interface. When I try to engage any of the stepper motors using Pronterface, nothing happens.
I have also already read this this post. I am hoping that the print shield isn't fried.
This is the log output after attempting to flash firmware using Prusaslicer:
```
avrdude-slic3r -v -p atmega2560 -c wiring -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1421 -b 115200 -D -U flash:w:0:/Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:i
avrdude-slic3r: Version 6.3-20160220-prusa3d, compiled on Sep 16 2019 at 02:08:32
Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/
Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch
Using Port : /dev/cu.usbmodem1421
Using Programmer : wiring
Overriding Baud Rate : 115200
AVR Part : ATmega2560
Chip Erase delay : 9000 us
PAGEL : PD7
BS2 : PA0
RESET disposition : dedicated
RETRY pulse : SCK
serial program mode : yes
parallel program mode : yes
Timeout : 200
StabDelay : 100
CmdexeDelay : 25
SyncLoops : 32
ByteDelay : 0
PollIndex : 3
PollValue : 0x53
Memory Detail :
Block Poll Page Polled
Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack
----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------
eeprom 65 10 8 0 no 4096 8 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00
flash 65 10 256 0 yes 262144 256 1024 4500 4500 0x00 0x00
lfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00
hfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00
efuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00
lock 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00
calibration 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00
signature 0 0 0 0 no 3 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00
Programmer Type : Wiring
Description : Wiring
Programmer Model: AVRISP
Hardware Version: 15
Firmware Version Master : 2.10
Vtarget : 0.0 V
SCK period : 0.1 us
avrdude-slic3r: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s
avrdude-slic3r: Device signature = 0x1e9801 (probably m2560)
avrdude-slic3r: reading input file "/Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex"
avrdude-slic3r: writing flash (244050 bytes):
avrdude-slic3r: stk500v2_command(): command failed
Writing | ################################################## | 100% 42.31s
avrdude-slic3r: 244050 bytes of flash written
avrdude-slic3r: verifying flash memory against /Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:
avrdude-slic3r: load data flash data from input file /Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:
avrdude-slic3r: input file /Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex contains 244050 bytes
avrdude-slic3r: reading on-chip flash data:
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 31.26s
avrdude-slic3r: verifying ...
avrdude-slic3r: 244050 bytes of flash verified
avrdude-slic3r done. Thank you.
avrdude-slic3r -v -p atmega2560 -c arduino -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1421 -b 115200 -D -u -U flash:w:1:/Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:i
avrdude-slic3r: Version 6.3-20160220-prusa3d, compiled on Sep 16 2019 at 02:08:32
Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/
Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch
Using Port : /dev/cu.usbmodem1421
Using Programmer : arduino
Overriding Baud Rate : 115200
avrdude-slic3r: prusa_init_external_flash(): MK3 printer emitted incorrect start code: `echo: `
avrdude-slic3r: arduino_open(): Failed to initialize MK3 external flash programming mode
avrdude-slic3r: Could not open port: /dev/cu.usbmodem1421
avrdude-slic3r done. Thank you.
```
Pronterface error log repeats the same error continuously:
```
echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user // action:pause Extruder fan speed is lower than expected echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user // action:pause Extruder fan speed is lower than expected echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user
```
# Answer
> 3 votes
I used Marlin 1.1.9 firmware and compiled and loaded it using the Arduino IDE. The printer works now. I was trying to use incompatible firmware.
Marlin 1.1.9
Arduino IDE
---
Tags: prusa-i3, firmware, slic3r, arduino-mega-2650
--- |
thread-11068 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11068 | How to extend Marlin to support additional movement axis? | 2019-09-25T10:40:53.180 | # Question
Title: How to extend Marlin to support additional movement axis?
On a RAMPS 1.4 it is possible to mount 5 stepper motors: `X`,`Y`,`Z` steppers are used for cartesian movements, while `E0` and `E1` are provided for extruders control.
I want to use `E0` and `E1` as additional movement axis in a robotical arm.
Is it possible in Marlin and if not, how can one approach the problem?
# Answer
I found many ways to re-task extruder steppers to behave like cartesian-like controls:
* If your application does not require contemporary movement of all axes, you can enable multiple extruders setting the `EXTRUDERS` define in Marlin's `Configuration.h`.
Then you can select which extruders will be set as `E` variable in `G1` commands, by sending `T0`, `T1` and so on.
* If your application require contemporary movement of all axes, you can enable the `MIXING_EXTRUDERS` option (source).
With that option, you are basically splitting the `E` argument between steppers. To set the ratio of your movement, you can give
```
M163 S0 P0.6 # Set stepper 0 to ratio 0.6
M163 S1 P0.4 # Set stepper 1 to ratio 0.4
M164 S2 # Create a virtual stepper with given settings
T2 # Select the virtual stepper
```
* If you want to configure additional steppers as proper axis, check this commit.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, ramps-1.4, arduino-mega-2650, axis
--- |
thread-11074 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11074 | Why and how am I supposed to change the extrusion multiplier? | 2019-09-26T09:52:11.973 | # Question
Title: Why and how am I supposed to change the extrusion multiplier?
The slicing software knows exactly (given accurate E-step, filament diameter, nozzle diameter values) how much cold plastic is pushed in the extruder and how much mass is extruded.
Why should the extrusion multiplier be changed from 100%? Shouldn't the slicer extrude already enough to fill the gaps left by the neighbouring perimeter (see rectangular vs recto-oval extrusion profile).
As result of the "why" question, implicitly comes up the question "how" should I (scientifically, not try and fail) define the extrusion multiplier? it would appear that said value should not be touched if the rest is done properly.
The only idea I can have is to print at 100% infill and then saw the part, to check how big are the voids between 4 neighbouring extrusions. Measuring the wall thickness seems very prone to errors (but again, is such calibration really needed?)
# Answer
> 3 votes
In an ideal world, you will not need to change this parameter once it is properly calibrated.
In a non-ideal world, some filament may be out-of-spec, and some filament may slip when it passes through the extruder. So for a flex (or more flexible) filament, you might increase the extrusion multiplier a little to compensate. If the compensation is material specific, it should be consistent (and might even be advised by the filament manufacturer).
You might want to increase/reduce the multiplier whilst printing the first layer (in lieu of fixing your bed leveling properly).
Maybe you want to fine-tune the top surface (which will be 100% fill) and you prefer to slightly under-fill this (because over-fill results in more noticeable surface defects).
It is for quick hacks or fine tuning, there is probably no scientific approach to setting any value other than 100%.
When it comes to material specific variations (due to melt viscosity, thermal expansion or drive efficiency), there are many factors which affect the tuning. Machine geometry, temperatures, colourants (and other additives in the filament), as well as the base material.
---
Tags: slicing, calibration, extrusion
--- |
thread-11071 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11071 | Does voltage or current affect the time to heat a bed more? | 2019-09-25T17:07:52.653 | # Question
Title: Does voltage or current affect the time to heat a bed more?
Which of these will heat a bed fastest?
* A. 12 V, 10 A power supply
* B. 24 V, 5 A power supply
* C. Both A and B will be the same (only total watts matter)
* D. Depends on the situation
I originally thought Amperage was what mattered until I realized I needed a 24 V power supply to even heat my Lulzbot mini bed by one degree.
I know voltage is used to determine insulation thickness on wires. But thin wires with high current in them also get hot. Is insulation thickness on wires only to prevent you from accidentally cutting through them and shocking yourself, or is it for heat reasons?
I'd like to power my heated bed with a 19.5 V, 5 A power supply. It's just an old laptop charger - I want to reduce strain on my circuit. It's a big bed and I have a few other laptop chargers lying around so I'd prefer to choose the best one.
# Answer
It depends on whether you are re-using the bed or not, it is actually the resistance of the bed that determines this in conjunction with the voltage (the current you get for free).
Let's say that the heatbed resistance is 1.2 Ω (depending on the heated bed make and model the resistance is typically in between 0.9 - 1.5 Ω), this means that the power can be calculated using: $$P = U \times I$$ $$U = I \times R$$ combining gives: $$ P = I^2\times R = \frac{U^2}{R} $$
For 12 V (assumed default printer voltage) this means that the heatbed power equals about 120 Watt (at a current of 10 A). Running that same bed at 24 V means that the power is 480 Watt (at a current of 20 A). So yes, that will heat up fast, at the expense of an increased current, which is pretty high, and should not be attempted without extra resistance in the loop.
If you're using the laptop charger, the current draw equals about 16 A, which the adapter cannot deliver.
This means that you need to acquire a new heatbed that is able to handle a higher voltage out of the box (more resistance), or you need to put additional resistors in the loop, but beware of the currents. Note that heated beds for 12 V/24 V exist, the wiring is different depending on the voltage. Note that such beds heat up faster, it all depends on the resistance and the voltage, but running the 24 V circuit on 19.5 V (160 Watt bed) is definitely an improvement over the 120 Watt bed at 12 V but still requires about 8 A (only applicable to heatbed that can run 12 V/24 V through extra resistance connections).
Be careful with this and be sure what you are doing!
> 5 votes
# Answer
Bed heaters look like this
They are rated for use with 12V or 24V supplies. 12V supply would take longer to warm it up, as P = V^2/R. Say it was a 2 ohm total resistance bed, then 12\*12/2 = 72 watts, vs 24\*24/2 = 288 watts. And 19V\*19V/2 = 180W. Then you work backwards, P=IV or P/V = I to determine current draw: 72/12 = 6 amp, 288/24 = 12 amp, 180/19 = 9/5A.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Power is the thing that determines how quickly the bed heats up, nothing else.
A specific bed will be defined by it's *resistance*, this is the only relevant factor which is a constant. Of course, you shouldn't run it at a much higher power than it was designed for, or at a significantly higher temperature (these are related, since the bed looses much more energy to the room as it gets hotter).
All 'low voltage' beds will have the same sort of insulation requirements (effectively none, less than 36V is regarded as safe to touch unless the skin is also penetrated).
The wires used to connect to the heated bed must have a significantly lower resistance than the bed itself (similarly the connectors). Otherwise the wiring overheats and the bed has to work harder (making the overheating worse). Using a heat bed designed for a higher voltage (and a matching higher voltage supply) puts less strain on the wiring because the current is reduced for the same power output.
Since the resistance is constant, increasing a 12V power supply to 13V gives a ~17% power increase (with the same bed) because the current also increases.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed
--- |
thread-11076 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11076 | What does it mean when they say up to 256 interpolation and 16 micro stepping for the TMC step sticks? | 2019-09-26T11:41:48.037 | # Question
Title: What does it mean when they say up to 256 interpolation and 16 micro stepping for the TMC step sticks?
I am planning to get a few TMC step sticks for my 3D printer.
I wanted to know what does 256 interpolation with 16 micro stepping mean, in simple terms?
Does it help? If so, how?
# Answer
Higher microstepping numbers result in smoother movement. However, printer control boards are limited in how many steps the can generate per second - as low as 10'000 steps/s on an 8-bit AVR board running Marlin.
To get the benefits of smoother microstepping, without adding load to your control board, TMC stepper drivers support interpolation between each step impulse coming from your control board, up to 256 different positions with which the stepper motor is driven.
You will still have to set up your firmware for the 16 "real" microsteps, the interpolation is only done on the stepper driver itself.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: electronics, stepper-driver
--- |
thread-11079 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11079 | What do I need to go along with my new SLA 3D printer? | 2019-09-26T14:43:27.433 | # Question
Title: What do I need to go along with my new SLA 3D printer?
I just purchased an Anycubic Photon 3S LCD-based SLA 3D printer. I understand the need for cleaning and curing parts after printing. While the device is in transit, I'm looking to set up a workstation to use it with.
Are there any recommendations for accessories to buy?: Particular containers to store materials in, particular products for cleaning prints (or cleaning the machine), particular lamps for curing, etc.
I'm trying to avoid gotchas, and I've got time to visit hardware stores or make further online purchases before it arrives. I'm not asking about software or computing hardware, just things that I'll want to have "on the bench".
# Answer
# Safety Gear
Gloves, you want to wear them whenever handling any resin. Single-use gloves are best - dispose of them after use. Consider them contaminated after touching anything in contact with resin and toss them before handling anything that shall not get in contact with resin. That includes door handles.
A good idea is to also wear eye protection, as resin in the eyes could destroy them.
While a dust mask might not be strictly necessary, it could reduce your exposure to the fumes of resin. Some resin fumes are known to create hypersensitivity.
It is also a good idea to put the printer into a dedicated workspace that is well ventilated and not your primary living space. I strongly recommend reading both Best way to deal with Resin Printers in your living space and Safe way of disposing resin
# Post-Processing Station
You may want to build a post-processing station. Most pieces can be sourced in any home depot store or made from household items, so I don't recommend specific brands but the requirements.
### Washing Station
A typical post-processing station consists of at least 2 vats large enough to submerge your print volume in, so you can wash off your print in the first and then wash it with fresh liquid in the second. The typical liquids for cleaning are isopropyl alcohol and sometimes technical alcohol. Some resins demand special liquids that are specific to the type of resin. Best, the washing vats have securely sealing lids. Glass is preferably as it is easy to clean.
To use the least amount of cleaning liquid, you might want to have a pair of needle spray bottles \- one for each bath. Label them!
To avoid spillage and ruining tables, a plastic table cloth can be a good addition. Fold it with the contaminated side onto itself for storage. A different solution would be to put the cleaning station onto a ceramic or steel surface, which can be easily cleaned after use.
### Curing Station/Chamber
The next step is curing the print under direct exposure to a UV light source, somewhat akin to how gel nails are hardened. Sometimes the sun is enough.
Since the resin residue from washing is now in the isopropyl alcohol (or other washing liquid), treat it as chemical waste. To reduce the waste of material, flock out the resin in it by exposing the liquid to the UV light and filter the result. The result is Isopropyl Alcohol with some remaining contaminants, which can be used again for the first rinsing step.
# Other Tools
Besides cleaning and curing the print, you need to remove the print from the plate, so you need a spatula or scraper, which is reserved only for your SLA printer. Never use it on the build platform of your FDM printers and consider it contaminated with uncured resin after use. Best cure residue on it in the UV chamber and then physically chip off the hardened resin before handling it without gloves again.
Similarly, a tool to stir the resin and remove flakes is often used, and some makers have special spatulas to clean the vat. Clean them well after use.
You will want to have some nice snippets to remove the support structures at some spots and some pliers to break them free - safety first.
Needle files and sanding paper for cleanup where the support stuck are a given.
# Resin Recovery
Since the resin in the trays might harden over time, you'll want to have some sort of rig to hold the vat at a tilted angle upside down so it can flow out, back into the resin bottle. A cover might also help to reduce exposure and allow short time storage in the machine. Thingieverse has a couple of solutions for lids, pouring and filtering stations as well as other accessories. Look for those that fit your printer.
The Resin should be stored in airtight and light-blocking bottles. As an extra security measure, you should store the resin in a closed cupboard to prevent light exposure through not totally opaque bottles.
More on Re-using resin can be found here
## Further Reading/watching
> 4 votes
# Answer
I would recommend a tub for cleaning the print, some funnels to get leftover resin back into the bottel, gloves, since you really don't want to get any uncured resin on your skin and a strong UV light for finishing the curing process after the cleaning
> 1 votes
---
Tags: sla
--- |
thread-11085 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11085 | Vertical lines with no layer adhesion | 2019-09-26T18:16:12.047 | # Question
Title: Vertical lines with no layer adhesion
I have an Ender 3 Pro which I use together with Cura 4.2.1 (and Octoprint). I print in PLA at 180°C. The print bed is set to 70°C. The Bed temperature is lower though, since I use a glas bed on top of the heated bed. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height is set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4mm from the 0.4mm nozzle. My retraction is 5mm at 50mm/s.
Prints come out with heavy vertical lines and no layer adhesion at these lines. I can easily break the print apart. In other spots the print is fine. Any ideas on what could cause this problem?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The Ender-3 has a problem that stems from the way the X-axis is mounted and which can often be a source for "jumping" in the Z area. Seeing the upper photo, you can see that the bad printing seems to be on one side more than the other, leading me to believe this might be the reason:
Check if the X gantry is orthogonal to the frame on both sides and make sure the eccentric nuts are not too tight so that the wheels roll easily on it, but not spin freely.
A little drop of oil on the Z-rod might also help to remove any binding, making sure that it moves smoothly.
If your layers are bad repeatedly, it also might be a problem with the extruder. Check if the extruder arm is all intact. When I had such an issue that was recurring every 10 layers, I found the lever arm holding the wheel on it broken and occasionally loosing contact. If it is broken, I suggest swapping the extruder assembly for a metallic one.
# Answer
> 1 votes
@Trish's answer is good, and has specific Ender-3 knowledge.
As I look at the picture, it looks as if the number of affected layers is more than one, and in the enlarged picture it looks as if all layers are present, and the layer pitch is generally consistent.
In addition to @Trish's suggestion, check for any binding in the filament that may be slowing the extruder feed. This could be periodic as the spool turns, filament catching on something in the environment, or filament wound on the spool so that it does not unspool freely.
---
Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-11084 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11084 | Getting wrong measurements on my Kossel Linear Plus after installing SKR 1.3 with Marlin 2.0 | 2019-09-26T16:58:02.780 | # Question
Title: Getting wrong measurements on my Kossel Linear Plus after installing SKR 1.3 with Marlin 2.0
So I've switched the Trigorilla board in the printer with a SKR 1.3 with TMC2208 drivers and installed the latest Marlin 2.0, with a config based on this one. You can find the Configuration.h here, the only thing I changed in Configuration\_adv.h was the pin of the hotend fan.
Now when let the printer autocalibrate the delta settings, it tells me that the height is 141.35 mm, instead of the actual ~300 mm and I had to set the radius to 78 mm, instead of the actual 115 mm so that it doesn't try to probe outside the bed.
What settings could I have set so horribly wrong that I get these results?
# Answer
So the problem was that the TMC2208 were wired for UART mode, yet Marlin was configured for standalone, which apparently makes them work, but with completely wrong step sizes. Changing it in the configuration completely eliminated the problem
> 4 votes
# Answer
I would check the "steps per distance" setting. If the motors were moving more than the firmware thinks, the height would measure as shorter than actual (since the number of steps would be less than the firmware expected). Similarly, the radius would scale up.
You replaced the controller and motor drivers, so perhaps the micro-stepping is different.
If the result is inconsistently wrong, it could be a dynamics setting, such as acceleration or max velocity.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, delta, kossel, skr-v1.3
--- |
thread-10638 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10638 | Creating "pie slice" in OpenSCAD? | 2019-07-20T22:11:16.773 | # Question
Title: Creating "pie slice" in OpenSCAD?
When making a cylinder, sometimes I need to only take a pie slice. I'm currently using this neat trick to make pie slices for angles under 90 degrees. However, I have need of a few angles over 90 but under 180 degrees. Is there a way to generalize/extend this to work for these bigger angles?
```
module pie_slice(r=3.0,a=30) {
intersection() {
circle(r=r);
square(r);
rotate(a-90) square(r);
}
}
pie_slice(r=10,a=15);
```
# Answer
This is what I use:
```
module pieSlice(a, r, h){
// a:angle, r:radius, h:height
rotate_extrude(angle=a) square([r,h]);
}
pieSlice(110,20,3);
```
> 3 votes
# Answer
My current workaround is to use `union` instead of intersection. Unfortunately, that means I have to use an `if` clause which makes the code have two paths instead of one clean approach. Also, unlike the above method, this does not result in a clean cylindrical shape but must instead by combined with a proper cylinder to get the final pie slice
```
size = length + 2;
if (angle_deg <= 90) {
translate([0,0,-1])
intersection() {
cube(size);
rotate(angle_deg-90) cube(size);
}
} else if (angle_deg <= 180) {
translate([0,0,-1])
union() {
cube(size);
rotate(angle_deg-90) cube(size);
}
} else {
echo(str("FAILURE - Angle cannot exceed 180"));
}
```
> 1 votes
# Answer
Although generating complex shapes by combining primitive OpenSCAD shapes is a well-established tradition, and is often all that is needed, it would be more elegant in this case to generate a pie slice directly using the `polygon` function and a list comprehension.
```
module pie_slice(r=3.0, a=30) {
polygon(points=[
[0, 0],
for(theta=0; theta<a; theta=theta+$fa)
[r*cos(theta), r*sin(theta)],
[r*cos(a), r*sin(a)]
]);
}
```
Note that the above code is a little crude, since it does no error checking, but it works. It uses the `$fa` special variable for the step angle.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, openscad
--- |
thread-11046 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11046 | Where to enable user interface encoder in Marlin? | 2019-09-19T22:37:23.797 | # Question
Title: Where to enable user interface encoder in Marlin?
I am trying to configure Marlin for a Ramps 1.6 board. I have an I2C 4x20 character LCD enabled. I have the LCD working with
```
#define LCD_SAINSMART_I2C_2004
```
I have a separate encoder, with push button, but I can't find where to enable it. It seems that combo display-encoder-buzzer boards are enabled as a set. Some common name, like the define I used for the display. But I can't find any useful information that includes a I2C LCD with an encoder.
I'm looking for a configuration that would enable my LCD and encoder, or just some way to enable the encoder by itself.
For some configurations I found the following. But when I connect my encoder to those pins nothing happens when I try it. So I think I need to enable them somewhere.
```
//encoder pins
#define BTN_EN1 31
#define BTN_EN2 33
#define BTN_ENC 35
```
# Answer
It seems that `ULTIPANEL` must be defined. The code for the encoder was included long ago with the Ultipanel (display and encoder) and does not exist on its own.
```
#define LCD_SAINSMART_I2C_2004 // I2C LCD
#define ULTIPANEL // enable code for encoder.
//encoder pins
#define BTN_EN1 37
#define BTN_EN2 35
#define BTN_ENC 31
```
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin
--- |
thread-11096 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11096 | Why is some part of the print not aligned? | 2019-09-29T03:13:45.687 | # Question
Title: Why is some part of the print not aligned?
I'm using a Prusa Slicer with a FlyingBear Ghost 4 and got a wrong printing alignments on the Y axis only on a part of the printing object. What may cause this?
Here are the printed model pictures showing the problem:
Here are the settings:
```
# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.1.0+win64 on 2019-09-29 at 11:37:50 UTC
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,255x0,255x210,0x210
bed_temperature = 60
before_layer_gcode =
between_objects_gcode =
bottom_fill_pattern = rectilinear
bottom_solid_layers = 7
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_angle = 0
bridge_fan_speed = 100
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 60
brim_width = 0
clip_multipart_objects = 0
colorprint_heights =
complete_objects = 0
cooling = 1
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_acceleration = 0
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
disable_fan_first_layers = 3
dont_support_bridges = 1
duplicate_distance = 6
elefant_foot_compensation = 0
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 Y0 ; home X and Y axis\nM84 ; disable motors\n
ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 0
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
external_perimeter_speed = 50%
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_loading_move = -2
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
extrusion_axis = E
extrusion_multiplier = 1
extrusion_width = 0.45
fan_always_on = 0
fan_below_layer_time = 60
filament_colour = #FFFFFF
filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4
filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2
filament_cooling_moves = 4
filament_cost = 30
filament_density = 1.25
filament_deretract_speed = nil
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_load_time = 0
filament_loading_speed = 28
filament_loading_speed_start = 3
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15
filament_notes = ""
filament_ramming_parameters = "120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6"
filament_retract_before_travel = nil
filament_retract_before_wipe = nil
filament_retract_layer_change = nil
filament_retract_length = nil
filament_retract_lift = nil
filament_retract_lift_above = nil
filament_retract_lift_below = nil
filament_retract_restart_extra = nil
filament_retract_speed = nil
filament_settings_id = "FlyingBear Ghost 4"
filament_soluble = 0
filament_toolchange_delay = 0
filament_type = PLA
filament_unload_time = 0
filament_unloading_speed = 90
filament_unloading_speed_start = 100
filament_wipe = nil
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 20%
fill_pattern = stars
first_layer_acceleration = 0
first_layer_bed_temperature = 60
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42
first_layer_height = 0.2
first_layer_speed = 30
first_layer_temperature = 210
gap_fill_speed = 20
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_flavor = marlin
gcode_label_objects = 0
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_every_layers = 1
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
infill_first = 0
infill_only_where_needed = 0
infill_overlap = 25%
infill_speed = 80
interface_shells = 0
layer_gcode =
layer_height = 0.1
machine_max_acceleration_e = 10000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 1500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 9000,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 9000,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 120,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 12,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 10,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 10,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_fan_speed = 100
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 200
max_print_speed = 80
max_volumetric_speed = 0
min_fan_speed = 35
min_layer_height = 0.07
min_print_speed = 10
min_skirt_length = 0
notes =
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1
ooze_prevention = 0
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
overhangs = 1
parking_pos_retraction = 92
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
perimeter_speed = 60
perimeters = 4
post_process =
print_host =
print_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
raft_layers = 0
remaining_times = 0
resolution = 0
retract_before_travel = 2
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 2
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 40
seam_position = aligned
serial_port =
serial_speed = 250000
silent_mode = 1
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
single_extruder_multi_material_priming = 1
skirt_distance = 6
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slice_closing_radius = 0.049
slowdown_below_layer_time = 5
small_perimeter_speed = 15
solid_infill_below_area = 70
solid_infill_every_layers = 0
solid_infill_extruder = 1
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
solid_infill_speed = 20
spiral_vase = 0
standby_temperature_delta = -5
start_filament_gcode = "; Filament gcode\n"
start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n
support_material = 1
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_auto = 1
support_material_buildplate_only = 0
support_material_contact_distance = 0.2
support_material_enforce_layers = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0.35
support_material_interface_contact_loops = 0
support_material_interface_extruder = 1
support_material_interface_layers = 3
support_material_interface_spacing = 0
support_material_interface_speed = 100%
support_material_pattern = rectilinear
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 60
support_material_synchronize_layers = 0
support_material_threshold = 0
support_material_with_sheath = 1
support_material_xy_spacing = 50%
temperature = 210
thin_walls = 1
threads = 4
toolchange_gcode =
top_fill_pattern = rectilinear
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0.4
top_solid_infill_speed = 15
top_solid_layers = 9
travel_speed = 150
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 1
wipe = 0
wipe_into_infill = 0
wipe_into_objects = 0
wipe_tower = 0
wipe_tower_bridging = 10
wipe_tower_rotation_angle = 0
wipe_tower_width = 60
wipe_tower_x = 180
wipe_tower_y = 140
wiping_volumes_extruders = 70,70
wiping_volumes_matrix = 0
xy_size_compensation = 0
z_offset = 0
```
# Answer
This looks like your problems are lack of retraction and having the slicer's "overhangs" setting enabled.
Retraction is absolutely essential when your print has layers with multiple disconnected components, and even when it doesn't, it's usually important. Without retraction, material will continue to flow out of the nozzle after extrusion is supposed to have stopped, producing oozing/stringing and subsequent underextrustion (due to the material already having been lost elsewhere).
The "overhangs" setting is actively harmful unless your printer firmware has "linear advance" feature and you have calibrated it properly. Otherwise, when reaching part of the perimeter that's an overhang, the print head motion will slow down (I think PrusaSlicer does 10-20 mm/s for overhangs), but **extrusion will continue at the full previous rate** until pressure in the nozzle subsides. This is what's causing all the ugly sagging loops around the tail. Disable this misfeature so that print speed remains constant between overhang and non-overhang parts of the perimeters.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, y-axis, flyingbear-ghost-4
--- |
thread-7714 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7714 | Stepper motors making noise after steps/when idle | 2018-12-20T06:35:02.557 | # Question
Title: Stepper motors making noise after steps/when idle
Why is it that if I execute a gcode command that causes the stepper motor to turn in reverse (any negative move on the X axis), after the step it will emit a high pitched whine until it gets another command to rotate in its forward direction?
Executing multiple reverse commands will cause the tone to vary in frequency each step, and always it goes away after another step in the opposite (forward) direction.
Sometimes.
And other times it does it in both directions, but only on every other step. One step +X its there, next step its gone, next step its back, and so on...
Then they also make a different noise when idle, before I disable them with the "disable steppers" command.
What are these noises?
And is it bad to leave the motors in this state? Will it burn them out?
# Answer
When idle, the stepper is stationary, no rotation.
Normal standard electric motors will start spinning as soon as you apply power to them. However, steppers only rotate when a magnetic field is applied<sup>1)</sup>:
> Stepper motors effectively have multiple "toothed" electromagnets arranged around a central gear-shaped piece of iron. The electromagnets are energized by an external driver circuit or a micro controller. To make the motor shaft turn, first, one electromagnet is given power, which magnetically attracts the gear's teeth. When the gear's teeth are aligned to the first electromagnet, they are slightly offset from the next electromagnet. This means that when the next electromagnet is turned on and the first is turned off, the gear rotates slightly to align with the next one. From there the process is repeated. Each of those rotations is called a "step", with an integer number of steps making a full rotation. In that way, the motor can be turned by a precise angle.
>
> The motor's position can then be commanded to move and hold at one of these steps without any position sensor for feedback (an open-loop controller), as long as the motor is carefully sized to the application in respect to torque and speed.
When you power the printer and energyze the steppers there is no movement, but, the magnetic coils in the stepper are activated to hold the rotor in position. This is controlled by the stepper driver. The creation of the signal for the magnetic coils is causing the noise. It is a function of the driver type, micro-stepping setting, the stepper motor inductance, current setting and supply voltage.
If the stepper motor, stepper driver and power supply can take it, increasing the current setting of the driver may lower the noise.
Turning off the steppers (disabling them with G-code using `M2`, `M18`, or `M84` depending on your firmware) will stop the noise, but you will easily lose the current position as it is not hold into place anymore.
---
<sup>1)</sup> source Wikipedia
> 1 votes
# Answer
this is normalISH for stepper motors. they have a fair ammount of current pulsing through them at relatively high frequencies, coils and other parts that will vibrate. if it quite loud you can look into the boards that drive them, depending on your printer they are replaceable, and better 'drivers' send cleaner signals that make less noise. however: if your motors get hot or start making clicking noises, or stop randomly, or acting up more significantly, you should look adjusting how much current they are getting. search for stepper motor calibration, basically you need to adjust the ammount of current the motors are getting, but if the machine prints normally, then this is not something you want to play with. you can also probably find the data sheet for your motor, they are usually rated to operate up to about 50C
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, stepper, motor
--- |
thread-11103 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11103 | What do I need to know to successfully use Taulman/Dow EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material? | 2019-09-30T13:21:56.310 | # Question
Title: What do I need to know to successfully use Taulman/Dow EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material?
Taulman3D advertises a soluble support material (EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material) that handles temperatures appropriate for nylon and is completely safe to flush down the drain. There's very little about how to print with it successfully, however, or how to remove it after printing.
Other than the documented (wide) print temperature range (200-250 °C), what do I need to know?
# Answer
### Advice From Taulman
On emailing Taulman asking for advice (after getting some initial failed prints), they responded with the following:
> \[...W\]e use the following settings. Support:
>
> 1. Flow 115 %
> 2. Infill = 8-10 %
> 3. 2 full surfaces at 100 %
> 4. Support speed 50 % of print speed.
What I've learned trying to apply that advice:
* Turning the flow percentage up as advised is a good idea.
* 17 mm/s is definitely much too fast for this material -- at that speed it's more likely to stick to the nozzle than to the base layer -- but at 8.5 mm/s it prints well.
* The advice to keep the infill percentage low is solid if you want to be able to mechanically remove any readily accessible sections. I've tried a print with 30 % infill after trying to diagnose a failure (more on that below), and while the print came out well, the support infill couldn't be mechanically removed, and was also very slow to dissolve (see below).
### On Support Removal
At Taulman's recommended 10 %-or-below infill percentage, any accessible parts can be mechanically removed. At 30 %, that's not really possible anymore -- though 5-10 minutes in boiling water might get the edges loosened up enough to let the bulk of the material be scooped away.
If you're just going to let it sit in tap water that isn't being circulated, expect that to take a *long* time, and to have several cycles of scraping out material that's turned to a gel to allow more to be exposed.
Using boiling water speeds the process substantially. If you're using USM with a nylon (or other material that's safe to bring to 100 °C), do that.
### How's Its Adherence To Nylon?
Not as strong as its adherence to itself. If you print a ceiling of USM on top of support infill of nylon, it's possible for that ceiling to come away with the print head; thus, it reduces risk of failed prints to use USM for the infill as well.
Thus, the "2 full surfaces at 100 %" advice given by Taulman above isn't (as I interpret it) just about ensuring that there's a successfully-printed support floor or ceiling; it's also about ensuring that there's enough surface area between the support floor and the nylon of the main print for them to adhere.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: filament, support-material
--- |
thread-10955 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10955 | Can mold release agent be used in 3D printing? | 2019-09-03T07:13:47.747 | # Question
Title: Can mold release agent be used in 3D printing?
Do we need mold release agent in 3D printing mold? If it is not used, what effect will it have on the product?
# Answer
> 3 votes
It seems I misread your question.
## 3D Printed Mold
You were asking about (or the question now states) use of a mold release compound to prevent a molded part from sticking to a 3d print mold.
Yes. It is always beneficial for the molded part to not stick to the mold. Easy separation and part removal is important for the life of the mold and for the surface finish of the part.
There are two molding situations that seem important.
## Flexible Mold or Object
In the first, either the part of the mold is elastic, so the actual sliding of one surface on the other isn't important. Here, a mold release agent would help by preventing the cast object from binding to the mold material.
## Stiff Mold and Object
The second case is where both the mold and the object are stiff, and the object must slide out of the mold. Here the layer lines should be considered, since there may, locally, be reverse draft angles where the larger part can not slip past an obstructing filament line. Using a process that doesn't leave filament lines, or using the thinnest possible filament layers, or smoothing the mold internal surfaces, or possibly filling the spaces between the ridges with another material may eliminate the problem. A "mold release agent" would still be used to reduce the attachment of the object to the mold, although one may be able to use ample release agent both to fill the groves in the mold and prevent adhesion.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Welcome to the 3D Printing Stack Exchange site.
## Used in Casting
A mold release agent is commonly used when a part is cast. The release agent is placed on the inside of the mold before the liquid object is added. As the object becomes solid, the release agent prevents the object from adhering to the mold. As a result, the objects are easier to pop out of the mold, and in some processes, the mold can be reused.
## 3D Printing is Different
A mold release agent is used to allow the desired part to be separated from the mold. In FDM (thin plastic extrusions bonding together into objects) 3D printing, the object is surrounded by air, except for the bottom where the object contacts the print bed.
## Bed Adhesion
For most materials, getting the bottom of the object to stick firmly enough is the problem faced, rather than making it easy to remove. In many cases, a compound is placed on the top of the bed to help the plastic stick to the bed. It is a "mode adhesion agent" rather than a release agent.
For some combinations of materials, the bed material and the plastic have a particularly strong adhesion, such that it can be difficult to remove the object without damaging the bed surface. Notably, this occurs with a PEI bed and PETG plastic. In this and similar cases, the mold adhesion agents can be used on the bed. This slightly separates the plastic from the bed material, and we can avoid bed damage.
## Internal Adhesion
With multimaterial printers becoming more common, there are cases where two parts which might touch and stich during printing should be isolated during the printing process. A second (or third) material can be used to isolate the parts. If the isolation material is sufficiently different from the desired objects, it can be removed by a solvent.
This approach is limited to cases where the objects should be separated by at least one printer thickness of the soluble material.
# Answer
> 0 votes
This question lead to an idea of using some "release agent" as anti-stick remedy between support and the printing part.
Basically the main purpose of mold release agent is to prevent sticking. So if the 3d printer will have extra nozzle to dispense agent on top of printed support and before next layers then yes this will be perfect for 3d printing. Support will do role of supporting but not stick to the printed part and as result could be easily removed.
But I am sure almost any oil will do the trick.
My experience with molds in 3d printing: I used 3d printed PLA molds with "oven backing clay" which I believe is mostly vinyl mixed with some organic compounds. With some thinning liquid from the same manufacturer I was able to make clay flow and be injected into mold. I used oil to make clay release from molds easily. After been released parts baked in oven for 30 minutes under 110C. Then they left for some time to cool down and polymerize. The final parts look like plastic but much stronger and obviously heat resistant. This technique could be used to design and test molds that finally will be metal and to be used in real injection molding process. This is what was my original target.
---
Tags: print-material, molds
--- |
thread-11116 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11116 | Anet A6 ERR MAXTEMP BED error | 2019-10-03T17:55:12.583 | # Question
Title: Anet A6 ERR MAXTEMP BED error
Out of the blue my A6 printer displays a ERR MAXTEMP BED error and shows about 100 degrees on the bed even when just powered on.
A quick thermistor check shows that it's working properly : about 80 kOhm at room temperature, similar to other units (didn't bother to really check the specs).
Swapping the bed thermistor for the head thermistor connector does not change the temperature readings : the one connected to the bed input gets 100 degrees, while the other one works as expected, proving that the connector and thermosensor are ok.
It has to be in the board. How do I fix it?
# Answer
> 4 votes
I'm posting the answer here hoping that will help anyone that encounters a similar issue. A post on another site indicated that these boards are known to be problematic.
After some digging, I came up with the schematics of this part of the mainboard :
I'm not an electronics genius, but clearly it's not the capacitor; so that leaves the pull-up resistor or the microcontroller.
Since the printer is already unusable, no harm in trying to replace the resistor, which is located just next to the connectors; for the bed it was the second from left, but if you encounter the same issue with another input, you may need to locate the proper one.
Make sure you have the proper tools and knowledge for removing and soldering SMD components; in my case it was a 4k7 resistor in 0805 footprint.
Bottomline : replacing a less-than-one-cent resistor saves a month of waiting for the delivery of a $25 board.
---
Tags: heated-bed, anet-a6, repair
--- |
thread-10843 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10843 | Help with my G-Code to change filament change mid-print | 2019-08-23T01:25:33.150 | # Question
Title: Help with my G-Code to change filament change mid-print
I'm using Ultimaker Cura, and I want to change the filament for a print that I'm attempting at layer 15. The problem I'm having is that I also need to use G-code to load and unload the filament with my BMG extruder. This is the script that Ultimaker Cura created for the post-process to pause at layer 15.
```
;current layer: 15
M83
G1 F3000 E-25
G1 F300 Z4
G1 F9000 X100 Y100
G1 F300 Z15
M104 S25; standby temperature
M0;Do the actual pause
M109 S215; resume temperature
G1 F3000 E25
G1 F3000 E-25
G1 F300 Z4
G1 F9000 X101.7 Y137.3
G1 F3000 E25
G1 F9000
M82
G92 E763.80547
G4 P1
```
This is what I usually use to unload my filament:
```
G21 ;Metric Values
G90 ;Absolute Positioning
M109 S205.000 ;205 Unload
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning
G1 E10 F100 ;Extrude 10mm filament
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning
G1 E-600 F1500 ;Retract Filament completely
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
M400 ;Wait Command
M117 REMOVE FILAMENT NOW ;LCD Message
M400 ; Wait Command
```
And to load:
```
G21 ;Metric Values
G90 ;Set absolute positioning
M109 S205.000 ;Preheat PLA
M300 S440 P200 ; Tone
M300 S660 P250 ; Tone
M300 S880 P300 ; Tone
G4 S5 ; Wait 5 seconds
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position
G1 E380 F1500; Fast Feed of 380mm filament
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position
G1 E100 F200 ;Feed 100mm filament slowly
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position
M400; Finish Move
```
So this is what I came up with, will it work?
```
;current layer: 15
M83
G1 F3000 E-25
G1 F300 Z4
G1 F9000 X100 Y100
G1 F300 Z15
G92 E0; Reset extruder position
G92 E-600 F1500; Retract Filament Completely
M104 S25; standby temperature
M0;Do the actual pause
G92 E0; Reset Extruder Position
M109 S215 ;Preheat PLA+
G1 E380 F1500; Fast Feed of 380mm filament
G92 E0; Reset Extruder Position
G1 E100 F200; Slowly Feed 100mm
M104 S25; Standby Temperature
M0; Do the actual Pause
M109 S215; resume temperature
G1 F3000 E25
G1 F3000 E-25
G1 F300 Z4
G1 F9000 X101.7 Y137.3
G1 F3000 E25
G1 F9000
M82
G92 E763.80547
G4 P1
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
First things first imho: **M0 to stop the stamp**. I dunno which firmware are you using but it should wait you to press a button on the LCD (Marlin does it). After that it run the gcode to unload and load the filament, resume temperature (M109 S215) and go ahead with the stamp.
This is my final version:
```
M83
G1 F3000 E-25
G1 F300 Z4
G1 F9000 X100 Y100
G1 F300 Z15
M0 ;Do the actual pause
G21 ;Metric Values
G90 ;Absolute Positioning
M109 S205.000 ;205 Unload
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning
G1 E10 F100 ;Extrude 10mm filament
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning
G1 E-600 F1500 ;Retract Filament completely
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
M400 ;Wait Command
M117 REMOVE FILAMENT NOW ;LCD Message
M400 ; Wait Command
G21 ;Metric Values
G90 ;Set absolute positioning
M109 S205.000 ;Preheat PLA
M300 S440 P200 ; Tone
M300 S660 P250 ; Tone
M300 S880 P300 ; Tone
G4 S5 ; Wait 5 seconds
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position
G1 E380 F1500; Fast Feed of 380mm filament
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position
G1 E100 F200 ;Feed 100mm filament slowly
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position
M400; Finish Move
M109 S215; resume temperature
G1 F3000 E25
G1 F3000 E-25
G1 F300 Z4
G1 F9000 X101.7 Y137.3
G1 F3000 E25
G1 F9000
M82
G92 E763.80547
G4 P1
```
---
Tags: g-code, change-filament
--- |
thread-11107 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11107 | Anet A8 not printing over heat bed | 2019-10-01T12:53:06.243 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 not printing over heat bed
My Anet A8 printer will not print over the heated bed.
Once I have prepared a file on Cura and inserted the SD card into the printer, the nozzle (extruder) moves into the top left corner and stays there. I have unchecked "Origin at center" and been over the printer settings multiple times. Yet still nothing.
Any suggestions?
I have included a picture of the settings I am using:
# Answer
do you set the `{speed_print}` value correct? Otherwise the command **G1 Z15.0 F {speed\_print}** is not executable imho...
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, diy-3d-printer, anet-a8
--- |
thread-11056 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11056 | Writing G-code: Audible Alert at end of print | 2019-09-21T07:49:01.270 | # Question
Title: Writing G-code: Audible Alert at end of print
Often, the pre-generated G-code is enough for start and end. However, sometimes we want to have something different. In this case: how to generate an audible alert of something like 4 bleeps at the end of the print, after putting the printer into the end position and when the bed has reached a "safe" 30 °C?
# Answer
Let's put the parts one by one:
* Wait for bed temperature being at 30 °C: `M190 R30`
* Play Bleep for 1/5th of a second: `M300 S440 P200`
* Wait for 1/5th of a second: `G4 P200`
That gives:
```
M190 R30
M140 S0
M300 S440 P200
G4 P200
M300 S440 P200
G4 P200
M300 S440 P200
G4 P200
M300 S440 P200
G4 P200
```
Just for 0scar:
```
M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7
G4 P400
M300 S1661.22 P600 ;as7
M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7
M300 S1396.91 P200 ;f7
M300 S1864.66 P400 ;b7
M300 S1244.51 P400 ;es7
M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7
G4 P400
M300 S2093.00 P400 ;c8
M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7
M300 S1396.91 P200 ;f7
M300 S2217.46 P400 ;des8
M300 S2093.00 P400 ;c8
M300 S1661.22 P400 ;as7
M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7
M300 S2093.00 P400 ;c8
M300 S2793.83 P400 ;f8
M300 S1244.51 P400 ;es7
M300 S1244.51 P200 ;es7
M300 S1046.50 P400 ;c7
M300 S1567.98 P400 ;g7
M300 S1396.91 P1600 ;f7
```
> 10 votes
# Answer
Trish's version is good but wait for bed temperature being at 30 °C (`M190 R30`) before setting the temperature to 0 °C (`M140 S0`)
So this is my version:
```
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
G1 Y150 F5000 ;move completed part out
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
M190 R30 ;waits until cooling to 30 °C
M300 S300 P1000 ;beep
M300 S300 P1000 ;beep
M300 S300 P1000 ;beep
M300 S300 P1000 ;beep
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off
```
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code
--- |
thread-11105 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11105 | Which filament to use for an application involving water circulation? | 2019-09-30T13:42:27.720 | # Question
Title: Which filament to use for an application involving water circulation?
Let's suppose I want to build a water block shaped exactly for my Ubis 13s hot end
(similar to this instructable), or that I want to circulate water around specific objects to be cooled (like Water-cooling stepper motor with aluminum block).
CNC allows the use of shaped radiators/water blocks, but it is too expensive for home projects and requires the ability to make a part at the first or second attempt, to keep costs low.
3D printing allows me to design jackets which are perfectly matched to the intended part, including gaps for O-rings or matching valleys+ridges between the components which also would result in a mostly waterproof seal (just add grease or hot glue...). In this case, water would be in contact with the object to cool and also provide (where suitable) a better interface. Corrosion can be avoided with some additives (in case of aluminium, water should be acidic).
Which common printing material is best for this application? Let's limit the question to materials that can be reliably printed at maximum 270 °C (nylon ok, but no polycarbonate or PEEK, for example).
We are talking about very low pressure pumps, mechanical strength is of little relevance.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I saw a lot of selling PETG water cooling pipes. So PETG will be the best choice considering all factors.
In addition: You could use any plastic with the oil instead of water for cooling medium. Also automotive anti-freeze (G11, G12, G13 ...) designed to be non corrosive and much better than water in terms of cooling.
---
Tags: cooling, filament-choice, water-resistance
--- |
thread-11123 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11123 | Horizontal line z-axis not printing correctly | 2019-10-05T23:16:59.607 | # Question
Title: Horizontal line z-axis not printing correctly
I have just started with the FlashForge Creator Pro using the FlashPrint slicer software. I have gotten some nice prints but I am having an issue with a certain print from this model of a knife.
See image below:
Everything prints fine up to where the blade starts. As you can see, there is horizontal portion of the blade that juts out and, as I predicted, when it tries to print this, there is nothing for it to adhere to so it hangs there and when the extruder moves, it just pulls the filament around with it and creates a mess.
The object file from Thingiverse is designed that way (with it standing upright) and there are pictures on the Thingiverse page of a successfully printed knife. As I am new to this, I am wracking my brain trying to figure out how to print this.
I tried to cut the design and print the handle and blade separately (laying the blade down flat on the print surface) but the blade isn't perfectly flat on the sides so it doesn't lay flat. I suppose I could also just cut the blade and lay it vertically on the print surface but it seems as though it was designed to print in full in one piece.
Any help or any pointers in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
# Answer
You'll notice in the screen capture that there is an icon marked "supports." This is precisely the solution required. When selected, the software should construct a series of vertical pillars in the locations required to properly print the horizontal portion of the knife blade.
It's common for Thingiverse models to have a notation Supports (yes/no) to indicate that this feature should be activated. Depending on the capability of your printer, some angles may require supports that are not required on someone else's printer model. There may also be an adjustment for angle reference to cease supports or to require. My printer will handle up to a 50° from vertical without support. Beyond that, more filament is used, but the result is superior to printing without it, as you've discovered.
Note also that support is typically categorized as "from the bed only" or "everywhere." The former prevents support from being generated between vertically separated parts of the model, while the latter permits it. Some models may have, for example, a foot on the bed not requiring support, but the arm directly above the foot does. "From the bed only" means the arm would droop/fail as no support would be generated above that portion of the model.
If you are using the ReplicatorG 0400 software, referenced from the manufacturer's web site, page 11 of the manual will have additional information regarding support within the program.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, support-structures, flashforge-creator, flashprint
--- |
thread-11118 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11118 | How to use a BLTouch or equivalent touch probe to 3D scan objects with a 3D printer? | 2019-10-04T09:53:07.793 | # Question
Title: How to use a BLTouch or equivalent touch probe to 3D scan objects with a 3D printer?
I thought about using a BLTouch probe to do 3D scans of objects.
The objects to be suitable require smooth gradients and enough space for the probe, without anything hitting the print head/hot end.
What tools do I need to control the printer and obtain such data? are there GCodes scripts for that?
I would need to define a grid size, spacing, retraction, maximum expected height increase between adjacent points.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I don't know the probe, but I have used a delta 3D printing machine (of my design) to scan a surface. It takes some time.
Your resolution will be limited by the probe geometry of the touch probe tip. You want a Z-probe function that reports the Z-value of the point, not that simply sets Z= when the probe "hits". The RepRap firmware has this in the `G30` command.
You will need to write a loop that probes all points of interest. This is best done by writing a program (or script) that generates the G-code. I have a PERL script that generates the calibration mesh for my Delta machine, and I can share that with you.
I edit the script for the area to be scanned. This includes (in my case) the radius and the resolution. I then run the script to produce G-code to do the probing.
I send the G-code to the printer with Repetier-Host. Repetier-Host builds a log file of every character returned by the printer. The G30 command returns in the log the Z value wher ethe probe hit.
After the G-code is fully executed, I run a PERL script on the log file to extract the Z height of each of the probed points.
What you do with that data is up to you.
---
Tags: software, scanning, bltouch, 3dtouch
--- |
thread-11070 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11070 | What are the downsides of high stepper current OR power? | 2019-09-25T17:05:29.053 | # Question
Title: What are the downsides of high stepper current OR power?
Microstepping reduces the actual torque at partial steps, so I would like to increase the stepper torque as much as possible to ensure better behaviour when high acceleration is needed (I'm installing a heavier print bed).
I know which drivers and which motors I have so I know the rated values and how to avoid exceeding them.
Besides the additional heating, what are the downsides of using higher current OR current, provided (as said) that the ratings are not exceeded?
For example: noise? vibrations? anything else?
# Answer
There is a downside.
If the current is too high, you lose the linearity of micro-stepping. If the highest current exceeds the maximum, then the highest current micro-stepping positions will collapse on each other.
If you are within the specs of the motors, there are no motor-related problems caused by higher currents.
But other problems can be caused by increasing the current. The current must be within the capacity of the motor drivers and their heat sink. If the drivers overheat, many will simply shut off, causing the motors to not move when they should, which will appear as misalignment on X, Y, or Y.
Another problem could be higher vibration, which would show as stronger ringing when going around corners. The higher current will give higher torque and higher acceleration, which will cause more vibration.
If you are increasing the current to support a bigger and heavier print bed, you will possibly have other troubles. Although the higher torque will be countered by the higher bed mass, the higher bed mass may be coupled with longer belts, which will be more stretchy. You may also be imposing forces over longer frame components, which may cause them to flex more.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: stepper
--- |
thread-11134 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11134 | G28 ignoring Z-Probe X/Y Offsets | 2019-10-08T10:11:11.513 | # Question
Title: G28 ignoring Z-Probe X/Y Offsets
I recently installed a SKR 1.3 Board with a 3DTouch-Probe on my Creality Ender 3 Pro. The probe works, `G29` does its magic, but:
If i issue a plain `G28`, the hotend first homes X and Y like before the Z-probe. The probe is now next to, not above, the bed. As the next step, the printer is supposed to home the Z-axis. The probe deploys and Z starts to lower until it smashes into the bed, because the probe misses the bed (if I don't stop it, that is).
I configured X/Y offsets for the probe, but they don't seem to be honored when performing the `G28` code.
If I home X/Y "manually" with `G28 X Y`, move the hotend with like `G1 X45 Y10`, then home Z with `G28 Z` it works fine.
What did I miss? Is this intended behaviour & the user has to take care never to issue a plain `G28`?!
# Answer
> 2 votes
You need to enable the constant `Z_SAFE_HOMING` (like: `#define Z_SAFE_HOMING`) in your printer configuration file (if you're using Marlin firmware that is). This will move the nozzle to the middle of the plate prior to lowering the nozzle by default:
```
#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#endif
```
# Answer
> 1 votes
Use `Z Safe Homing` to avoid homing with a Z probe outside the bed area
According to Marlin firmware with this feature enabled:
* Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still enabled.
* If stepper drivers time out, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing.
* Move the Z probe (or nozzle) to a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axes (G28).
* Prevent Z homing when the Z probe is outside the bed area.
To Enable Z SAFE HOMING, In the `configuration.h` file search (Ctrl+F) for `#define Z_SAFE_HOMING`. By default, it will be disabled to enable it just uncomment the line
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, z-probe, 3dtouch, skr-v1.3
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thread-11111 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11111 | CR-10 Ignoring Z-Stop Switch, Keeps Trying to Lower | 2019-10-02T21:28:28.097 | # Question
Title: CR-10 Ignoring Z-Stop Switch, Keeps Trying to Lower
I have a CR-10 with TH3D's most recent firmware on it and an EZABL (Plug & Print Auto Bed Leveling Kit) installed. My problem is that when I select "Auto Home", the printer ignores the Z-stop switch and keeps trying to lower the extruder, grinding and shuddering until I have to power it off. I can't seem to figure out what the problem is.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I had this same issue with my CR-10s. My black and white wires were reversed where I plugged them in to the motherboard in place of the stock z stop wires. I had to take apart the connector and swap them, as they came backwards from the mfg. Once I did that it worked perfectly.
The image I'm attaching helped me solve my issue. It is not mine, after much searching I found kenneycp's reply on this comment thread https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975949/comments
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Tags: marlin, creality-cr-10, ezabl
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thread-8652 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8652 | Handling retraction when using a mixing extruder (2 in 1 out) | 2019-04-10T15:01:21.300 | # Question
Title: Handling retraction when using a mixing extruder (2 in 1 out)
I have a Zonestar Z5FM2 running Marlin 1.1.8 with a mixing extruder.
That is, 2 extruder stepper motors feeding a 2-in 1-out hotend (similar to the E3D cyclops).
I'm slicing with Simplify3D and I have set up:
* T0 set to the first extruder;
* T1 set to the second extruder;
* T2 set to a virtual extruder consisting of a 50/50 mix of extruder 1 and 2(made by having `M163 S0 P50` followed by `M164 S2` in the start code)
I was wondering how you handle the retraction. Currently only the active tool (e.g. extruder motor 1 when using T1) retracts, which leads to a lot of oozing since the filament in the unused half is still applying some pressure.
I read that for a setup like mine it is necessary to get both extruders to retract. How do I do that?
I've seen the documentation for programming `G10/G11` firmware retract with `M207` but there does not seem to be a way to specify the tool to use.
I could make a find-and-replace post processing script in Simplify3D to replace retracts of T0 or T1 with retracts of T2 (so both motors retract), but then how would I get it to switch back to the proper original tool when resuming printing?
Is there a way to address an extruder directly in `G1` commands (so I could force both to retract), or temporarily switch a tool for just one command (so I could switch tool for the retract command only and it would go back to printing with the previous tool afterwards)?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I found this post on the S3D Forums that seem to have some interesting information on custom scripting within Simplify3D. While this doesn't seem to SPECIFICALLY address the question you've got, it looks like there's a "Retraction Scripts" tab that you could probably leverage your T2 tool inside of, using "OLDTOOL" instead of "NEWTOOL".
For additional information on what variables are available, I found a different forum post here that seems to have some documentation on Simplify3D's built-in script variables. Additionally, from the GCode in the first link's example scripts, it *appears* that you should be able to actually address M-commands to individual extruders (such as T2 in your case) simply by adding "T(x)" as a parameter to the individual command. I just ran a quick test on my own Marlin-based printer with a 2in-1out hotend, and I was not able to get it to address G1 commands to specific E motors without switching tools.
All in all I think you should be able to use the custom scripts available in S3D to accomplish what you want by switching tools in the layer change script, but aside from that, I don't know what options you have available with that specific software chain.
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Tags: marlin, extrusion, simplify3d, retraction
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thread-11148 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11148 | 3D printing overhangs that are over .200 in | 2019-10-11T05:23:08.063 | # Question
Title: 3D printing overhangs that are over .200 in
I am new to 3D printing but have been in CNC Machining for a few years. I have a part I am trying to print that is a cylinder 1.000 in. in diameter and has a .200 in overhang starting at 1.300 in. In other words I am printing a 1.300 in. cylinder that is 1.500 in. tall that at 1.300 in. its diameter increases by .200 in.
When I first printed the part the overhang had sunk or fallen out. Not by much and is still usable but made a crappy finish. What would I need to do in order to have the overhang not drop as the base layer extended outward .200 in. at 1.300 in.?
I tried slowing the feed rate but that was worse. I also lowered the temp to 195 °C.
I am using a Monoprice Select Mini running at 200 °C and a 1.0 Speed (Not really sure what that feed rate is in terms of mm/s). Based on what I've seen so far I would increase the speed and keep the temp at 200 °C.
Any suggestions, I hope I have explained my problem well enough.
# Answer
The world of 3D Printers usually uses the metric system, especially in nozzle sizes. 0.2 inches are therefore better referred to as 5 mm, which is a considerable amount: that's 11 to 13 perimeters from a 0.4 mm nozzle, depending on extrusion width (0.46 and 0.4 mm respectively). Furthermore, the bore of the item isn't supported either, it is bridging.
To print overhangs and bridging without sagging, one should activate the generation of support material in the slicer.
Generally speaking, PLA (judging from the print temperature) doesn't need to be printed with a raft and would be better served with a `brim` for bed adhesion, unless you have a perforated bed. If you have to print in the shown orientation, then you should activate support generation in your slicer.
For this part, however, there is a better solution: it is of very simple geometry and it doesn't have to be printed as shown but equally could be printed "upside-down" by being rotated around the X-Axis by 180° in the slicer. This has two benefits: it removes all unsupported overhangs an avoids support structure, making the wasted material pretty much nonexistent.
I strongly recommend taking a look at my 3D Design Primer and the excellent question on How to decide print orientation? and then delve into further reading:
> 2 votes
# Answer
It appears that your part could be printable upside down. If possible, I'd highly recommend this, as it mostly avoids supports all together.
> 0 votes
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Tags: print-quality, extrusion, support-structures
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thread-11155 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11155 | XYZPrinting Premium Metallic PLA Conductivity | 2019-10-12T00:23:40.397 | # Question
Title: XYZPrinting Premium Metallic PLA Conductivity
I have a XYZPrinting Da Vinci Mini W+ that I got for last Christmas. I am looking at the filaments available for it, since the included PLA is running 'low' (according to it) at 21 metres remaining. The one filament type that interested me the most is the Premium Metallic PLA. My question, that the website doesn't seem to answer, is how conductive is this material? Does it have any conductivity that would make it realistic to use to carry a current from something like an Arduino or Raspberry Pi, or is it too insulated, meant to only look metal, to act as a conductor?
**Why I ask (Background - Not as Important)** I ask this, because of an idea I had. Printing a pretty low quality PCB type circuit. Instead of being forced to keep my circuits on breadboards with wires jumping from here and there, I would take a conductive layer and sandwich is between to insulating layers. If I wanted two trace layers, I'd do the following pattern (with I being insulating and C conductive) "ICICI". Since I only can print in one filament type at a time, I'd print each layer in the thinnest thickness (1 micron, I believe), and have to fuse them together. I could do this in a few ways, using glue of some sort, or a hand-help filament pen to fuse the layers from the outside (the conductive layers would be slightly smaller, of course).
# Answer
Most PLAs are non-conductive: they contain little to no metal in comparison to plastic and can't make a conductive path. Even metallic PLA does not contain enough metal to be conductive.
There are some rare filaments that are conductive, they are sold as conductive PLA. I have yet to encounter a non-black conductive PLA.
One filament I suspect to be possibly conductive but have no hard evidence is made by The Vitual Foundry and contains about 80% metal. It is intended to be treated in the oven to burn out the plastic part, leaving behind a somewhat pure metal structure, but might be conductive without this process already. I have no experience with this and all my exposure to it was this answer. It should be highly abrasive though.
> 2 votes
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Tags: filament, print-material
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thread-331 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/331 | Levelling heads for dual extruder | 2016-01-19T02:32:34.107 | # Question
Title: Levelling heads for dual extruder
I upgraded to a dual Mk9 extruder, and quickly discovered how critical it is to get the ends of both nozzles exactly level with each other -- that is, equally distant from the build plate at all times. Otherwise the lower one will crash against the plastic just extruded by the higher one.
So, what's a good procedure for getting the nozzles accurately level? About all I've figure out is to move the heads down close to Z=0, and then run X and Y back and forth and eyeball and adjust; then move even closer to Z=0 and repeat. Is there a better / more efficient way?
# Answer
> 6 votes
1. Make sure that the **bed is level**. As the saying goes, a level bed is next to godliness or something like that. Pay extra attention to the direction the nozzles are offset by (if one nozzle is offset on the X-axis, pay extra attention to the bed leveling along the X-axis). This can be done with just one nozzle and a business card or piece of paper.
2. Use a **bubble level** to get the nozzles about right. Move your z-axis up a bit and put a bubble level against the nozzles. Adjust as necessary so it's exactly level. The nozzles should be level enough that the bubble stays in the middle.
3. Fine-tune it with a **business card**. When you home the z- axis, you should be able to just fit a business card under both nozzles with a moderate amount of resistance. Don't force the card. If sliding the business card under produces a different amount of resistance for one nozzle than for another, adjust the nozzle a *tiny* amount. You can also use an index card or playing card.
4. Once it passes the card test, try a test print. If it doesn't work, make sure your bed is level, your nozzle offset is correct in the slicing software, and try calibrating with an index card again. If the nozzles become way off, try the bubble level again.
As for physically adjusting the level, another answer suggests shims made from aluminum foil, which work well. Personally, my extruder was off-level by almost exactly 1mm, so a pair of washers worked nicely for that.
Happy printing!
Leveling with a bubble:
# Answer
> 6 votes
Two good options for ROUGH alignment:
1. **For threaded thermal barrier type extruders:** use a leveling jig like this while the extruders are disassembled: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23013
2. **For straight-shaft thermal barrier type extruders:** Carefully level the bed to whichever nozzle is lower, using your preferred piece of paper / business card / feeler gauge. Then stick the same paper / leveling tool under the higher nozzle, release the set screw or clamp on the tube, and drop it down to rest on the leveling tool. You can also use a printed jig if your thermal barrier tubes are stuck and need some force to move.
The best and easiest way for FINE alignment:
**Shims.**
Just stick some folded-up aluminum foil (or layers of Kapton, or whatever) under whichever end of the cooling bar is lower, and tighten the screws holding it onto the carriage. Re-adjust as needed until perfectly level. This is ten times more accurate and much easier than trying to get precision alignment of the thermal barrier tubes in the bar itself.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Another option, that I found was the simplest one that worked for me:
1. Level your bed using just the first nozzle (temporarily lock the 2nd nozzle higher than the 1st one).
2. Move the printhead at the center of the bed
3. Loosen the grub screws on both nozzles (IMPORTANT, don't skip this step)
4. If you're not using a glass bed, temporarily clip a sheet of glass on your bed.
5. Home the Z-Axis
6. Move the the head sideways, front and back a few times just to be sure (X, Y)
7. Move the printhead back at the center
8. Lock the grub screws on both nozzles. Lock them slowly alternating between the top and bottom screws. Also make sure the wirings don't pull on the head (it's actually better if they push the nozzles down).
9. Relevel the bed, this time checking with the 2 nozzles
The sheet of glass ensures a completely flat and solid surface, on top of your properly leveled bed.
Try the above in case nothing else works for you.
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Tags: dual-nozzle
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thread-11166 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11166 | PLA Filament Not Softening During Load w/ FlashForge Creator Pro | 2019-10-14T00:00:36.013 | # Question
Title: PLA Filament Not Softening During Load w/ FlashForge Creator Pro
Recently, after printing fine for several weeks, I've gone to load in white PLA filament into the right extruder on my FlashForge Creator Pro and the extruder is not pulling the white PLA filament through. The gears grab the filament and pull it down but it never makes it out the other end. I have successfully used this filament through this same extruder as recently as yesterday. The steps I have taken are:
• Remove the extruder motor and cleaned the gears. There was no noticeable issues or clogs.
• Turned the heat on and used the skinny metal unclogging tool that came with the printer to drive any excess filament out of the nozzle.
• Removed the nozzle and cleaned as best as I could. To be clear, this does not appear to be a nozzle clog because I have removed the nozzle, leaving the plastic tube that's under it in the extruder and I can run the unclogging tool all the way through the tube and out the top of extruder when the nozzle is not on. The line appears to be clear.
• I then tried to load the filament without the nozzle on (but with the plastic tube still in the extruder; which I confirmed in the last step does not have a clog in it). Same problem.
• I unloading the black PLA filament from the left extruder and then took the white PLA filament (which wouldn't load into the right extruder) and tried to load it into the left one. Same problem. I then took the black PLA filament and went to load it back into the left extruder and it worked fine.
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The white filament seems to be the problem but I cannot figure out what the problem would be. It's the same size as the black filament and the black filament works fine through the extruders that the white one does not. As mentioned, this filament worked fine yesterday.
I took the fan off and watched the filament get gripped by the motor gears and pulled down until it is entered into the hole below the motor. That is the point at which is gets stuck. It appears the filament simply is not being softened/melted enough to start feeding through the smaller hole.
I researched this and saw that this could be the result of a faulty reading by the machine due to thermocouple problems (?) but it seems doubtful now that I've tested successfully with black filament.
My settings are as follows:
FlashForge Creator Pro
PLA Filament
Extruder - 210C (I started a 200C but then increased)
Any thoughts or pointers would be great. Thank you!
# Answer
> 3 votes
After all of this trial and error it was a simple solution.
I did not snip off the end of the filament after unloading. The filament had been tapered after unloading because of the way it was extruded previously. I don't know exactly why (please feel free to add to this answer) but when I made a clean cut on the end of the filament and then fed it through, it extruded with no problem.
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Tags: pla, flashforge-creator, flashforge
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thread-6281 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6281 | Anet A8 LCD shows garbage data after done printing | 2018-07-04T21:32:04.370 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 LCD shows garbage data after done printing
I have an Anet A8, and recently updated the firmware to Marlin 1.1.8. My only change was replacing the configuration files by the Anet A8 sample files built in with the firmware zip file.
Everything works fine but, sometimes, right after finishing a printing (while doing the "home all"), the LCD shows some weird data, like this:
The same happens when push the "confirm", after the mesh bed leveling.
I'd like to know why it happens. Is it a Marlin bug?
# Answer
This is a known problem of the Anet A8 display, it is caused by electrical interference. Pressing the middle button will refresh the display.
This is prone to happen when doing long prints.
There are some reported successes of people inserting ferrite beads or toroidal rings.
No, this is not a firmware issue, this is a hardware issue.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I have solved completely, I covered the flat cable, with copper tape, this shield should be connected to the 0V of the power supply. All disorders will disappear.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I had this issue for a long time and finally I tried a super-simple hack. Attach a testlead from bed to PSU (which is grounded). Problem solved!
In other words: The Marlin firmware may be more "sensitive" than the original stock firmware, but it is not really a firmware issue.
> 2 votes
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Tags: marlin, anet-a8
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thread-11174 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11174 | CR-10S Pro pausing and starting again | 2019-10-14T21:44:10.047 | # Question
Title: CR-10S Pro pausing and starting again
I found this question, CR-10 randomly pauses for a few seconds, that someone asked earlier. I am experiencing the *exact* same thing, only on a CR-10S Pro.
None of the suggestions on that post helped. For what it's worth, I am using Ultimaker Cura 4.3.
Any help would be wonderful!
I made this video for someone I know from Creality. The pausing seems to happen at each new layer. But, as the layers pass like 4 layers then the pausing stops. This also happens on every print big or small. I changed nothing and it just started happening.
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Quoting my comment from the previous question:
> I am seemingly having the same issue only on Cura 4.3. There is no "Maximum Z Speed" anywhere on 4.3 so how can I fix this? As talked about above I just checked my "minimum layer time" and it is set to 10. I have also used another slicer and this same issue keeps happening it just messes up differently. I've also tried printing from SD card and OctoPrint. Same issue... How could this be my slicer if this same thing is happening on a different slicer than Cura?
# Answer
> 2 votes
From your comment on the linked question you state:
> As talked about above I just checked my "minimum layer time" and it is set to 10
<sub>Note that Cura's default value is 5 seconds.</sub>
This means that the print speed is lowered down to the minimum print speed to have layers that print for at least 10 seconds. When it cannot print slower (there is a minimum print speed) and the minimum layer time has not been reached yet, the print head halts until the time value is reached, then it continues. This behaviour is expected when the print area becomes small so that the time per layer drops under the 10 seconds.
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Tags: z-axis, creality-cr-10
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thread-11153 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11153 | Is it possible with current 3D printers to print a sound trace? | 2019-10-11T20:40:57.663 | # Question
Title: Is it possible with current 3D printers to print a sound trace?
Is it possible with the accuracy of current 3D printers to print a sound trace?
On a vinyl record the grooves in the record are an encoded sound. Is something like this doable with 3D printers?
If Vinyl-like isn't possible, could a sound be printed at desktop scale? I mean printing the waves out that if you ran your finger along it it would reproduce the encoded sound? Examples would be Rumble Strips, the Musical Roads or highway rumble strips.
# Answer
## Sound Encoding basics
Sound is a compression wave, and any depiction of it has to be an encoding of it. You can encode it so you can recreate the sound using a contraption that oscillates in the right way to compress air again in the right pattern, but you can't just "print it out" like you can scale up a lightwave from the nanometer scale to a visible one as a representation.
Let's take a simple example: a 440 Hz tune is generally considered to be the A<sub>4</sub>, aka *concert pitch a* or A440.
It could be encoded in a various ways. The probably oldest is to encode it as a note in violin notation, which then could be reproduced by anyone using a properly tuned instrument. The actual result depends on the instrument used as much as on the skill of the player. Each instrument thus might decode this encoded note differently, based on the physical setup of the instrument. Each instrument *automatically* creates the appropriate overtones.
In Midi, it is encoded as `Note 69` and any machine that can decode a midi file could use this instruction, paired with an instrument to use, to create the A<sub>4</sub> that is set for it. In Midi, the mere instruction of Note 69 does cut out skill, but how it sounds and feels comes from the instrument setup - which contains information about what overtones are to be created when playing this note.
For a physicist, the pure sound is encoded as just the notion of `440 Hz` and some amplitude to balance how loud it is. With those instructions, he'd be able to set up a device that has these creates a 440 Hz tune. To generate the sound and feel of an instrument, the encoding for a physicist would need to contain all the overtones that are to swing with this one sound.
### History of sound recording
Let's look at the very first way of recording sound: The Phonautograph of 1857 used a piece of paper or a sheet of glass blackened and then a membrane move a needle. When the plate would be moved, the needle left a written path. The encoding was done via 2 factors: the setup of the stylus (mainly how long is the arm) and the speed of the movement of the plate. Changing either changed the encoding. A longer arm would record a larger amplitude (making fainter sounds recordable) while faster movement would alter the timescale recorded, allowing to look at short instances and better compare them.
These vibration-pattern records could be used to measure and compare sounds but not be used to recreate the sound, as lines on paper nor scratches in soot are a good way to keep a reading needle in boundaries. it took till 2000 and the use of scanners as well as digital processing to recreate these recorded sounds.
The solution to recreate sounds was found by the Edison Laps in 1877 with the phonograph, which used a piece of thick tinfoil to record the motion pattern of the membrane. Again, then encoding was done via the arm setup and the speed at which the tinfoil clad cylinder moved (or rather rotated). It would till the 1880s develop to a wax cylinder, which was easier to inscribe and reproduce from. One such machine was used by Carl Orff.
The first Gramophone came in 1889, mainly altering the shape of the recording medium from cylinders to the well-known shape of vinyl records but made from hard plastics and shellac. Around 1901, a 12-inch gramophone disk held only a 4 minutes track, speaking volumes about the problems of encoding the complex patterns of sound onto a disk. At the same time, an Edison Amberol Cylinder held 4 minutes 30 seconds but would spin at 160 rpm. Soon after, celluloid would become the recording medium of its time, and the disk the de-facto "standard" as it was much better storable.
In 1925 finally, a real standard was developed to record at around $78^{+0.26}\_{-0.08}$ rpm, which lead to only a 0.34 rpm difference between areas of 60 or 50 Hz mains voltage (though they needed different encoder rings), making records interchangeable between both machine types. All these recordings were encoded naturally: the vibrations of the membrane in the recording tool would be 1:1 transmitted to the vibrating stylus that would then do the encoding in such a way that a machine would reproduce what the recording one "heard" quite accurately.
When Vinyl came to the playing field as a recording medium at the end of world war II, so came a swap in the reading needle type: instead of a needle that would agitate a membrane directily, sapphire needles that would agitate an electrical pickup which in turn would activate a speaker. But while the recording technology advanced, the track length of a 12-inch disk was still limited to about 4 minutes at 78 rpm. It would only reach more than this in the last years of its use by applying LP technologies to pack the track tighter in the 1950s, achieving 17 minutes.
1948 came the LP, what we know as a classic vinyl record. At its introduction it could cram 23 minutes onto one side, making this possible by only using 33.5 rpm as the recording speed and thinner, much tighter coiled groves, increasing the information density by a factor of 5.75 for a 12-inch disk. 7-inch 45 rpm "singles" came out 4 years later. Within 10 years, the 33.5 and 45 rpm encoded variants had almost completely replaced the 78 rpm market.
## Vinyl
As the history of analogous recordings shows, encoding a sound signal is rather easy in theory, hard in practice. A typical 12-inch LP Vinyl record of 20 minutes is a grove that is 427 meters long and coiled up 667 times. That means a single groove is between 0.04 and 0.08 mm wide - with an equally thin wall between. That means, that to achieve a printed phonograph record, you'd have to print accurately down to 40 microns to get an *empty* track. However, we also need to add the signal atop. And here comes the real problem:
An empty track has some 22 µm deviations, which the needle will usually not pick up at all. Dust, which creates the crackling at times, is in the same area (1-100 µm). The actual sound signal is encoded to have features as small as 75 nanometers. That is 3 magnitudes lower than the mere geometry of the grove, and equally much lower than any printer - including SLS - can achieve today, as 50 µm is often considered a lower limit in 2019.
To show how much tiny defects would ruin the sound quality, look at this rapid cast of a vinyl record. The resolution of the negative and the subsequently cast record is good enough to recognize the music, but the resin cast did contain so many gas bubbles that the noise level of the copy is very high.
Bonus: Unlike on cylinders the encoding of the signal on disks changes from the start to the end! The vinyl spins at a constant rate, but the radius from the center changes, leading in the speed on any part of the grove to be different as $|v|=|\omega \vec r \sin(\theta)|$, where omega is the speed in rad per second, theta is the angle of the reeding, so in this case, the sinus term becomes 1 and vanishes. This factor has to be taken into account for encoding so the pitch of the record doesn't change if the record is not created naturally by inscribing the signal onto a spinning disk.
## Other encoding
### Rumble Strips
However, it is quite easy to create a structure that creates sounds based on interaction with another body. Highway Sound Strips create sounds as the car tire bumps up and down, turning the car and tires into resonance bodies while the street "beats" upon it. In the case of a large percussion instrument like a car, we are talking centimeter scale.
### Peg-Cylinder
A very simple method would be to go back to encoding and check out the note notation but limiting the length of notes to one unit. Encoding music this way results in pegs or ridges on a cylinder, which then can be used to actuate a mechanism to decode the music and create sounds like in a music box. In a music box of this kind, the demand for accuracy is about 3 to 5 magnitudes lower than in vinyl records: we speak about a tenth of a millimeter to centimeter scale.
Such a Musical box or noisemaker can be easily printed and is pretty much a rumble strip coiled around a cylinder. The length of the sample is determined by the resolution, playback speed and diameter of the cylinder while the complexity is determined by the rows of pegs of it: a noisemaker is pretty much a 1-note, high speed, music box. Typically, one rotation stores about 25 to 30 seconds. Typical examples would be the first part of *Für Elise*, or the Marble Machine (Between second 30 and 35 the encoding wheel rotates 1 fifth). Some barrel organs also use the peg method, like one can see here. With some trickery, one cylinder could be used to encode multiple parts that play one after another once a rotation is done by and silencing some parts of the machine depending on an extra encoder, like this 3-part *Für Elise* music box.
### Hole-Plate(-strip)
A different method would be to encode the music as holes in a continuous strip and use air as a decoding method. If the air then gets directed into pipes, we have a street organ. Typically, one would use a paper strip as the encoded message, but it could be printed just as well, especially if one uses a setup that uses plates hinged to one another instead of a rolled-up paper as in this example. With such a way to stash away the extra length, the upper limit for music length rises from a couple of seconds to several minutes easily even with such a "bad" encoding.
> 7 votes
# Answer
I think this is just about doable. In this answer, I will assume you want to produce a "rumble strip" style of object that will reproduce a recording of human speech. I'll assume you don't care about sound quality, you just want the words to be intelligible.
The main things to consider are the printer's resolution, the size of the object to be printed, and the sample rate. Together, these factors determine the length of the sound, and the rate at which you need to move along it to reproduce the sound.
Let's start with sample rate. A CD has a sample rate of 44100 samples per second (Hz), but that might be a bit ambitious. Telephones use a lower sample rate of 8000, and it says here that speech is still intelligible at a sample rate of 2500 Hz. Let's go with this rate.
Now let's consider the resolution of the printer. A typical nozzle size is 0.2mm, which probably limits the resolution to around that size, though you can probably do better with some care, and I imagine people in this community will be able to help with that. I am guessing that you would want to print the object horizontally, so you're dealing with xy resolution instead of z resolution. (Note that resin 3d printers have much better resolutions, so they might be ideal for this task, despite their smaller print volumes.) Let's start by assuming 0.2mm is our resolution, since this should be easy to achieve with any printer.
This means that every sample in the sound file takes up about 0.2mm. Let's say we have one second of speech - that's long enough to say "Hello!", for example - at 2500 Hz. That means we have 2500 samples. 2500 * 0.2mm = 500mm, so your rumble strip will be about 1/2 meter long. That's unlikely to fit on your print bed, but you can print it in sections and stick them together - you can probably print them all at the same time. You could even curl it round into a spiral, making it even more like a vinyl record.
Then all you have to do is take a rigid object like a guitar pick and slide it along the strip at the right speed, so that it takes about 1 second. Then you should hear the sound played back. Attaching a resonator to the pick or the strip should increase the volume.
Increasing the resolution will decrease the length of the strip, or allow you to play a longer sound for the same length of strip, or increase the sample rate. E.g. if you can get a resolution of 0.1mm then you could play a 2 second sound instead, using the same 0.5m length of rumble strip.
In principle, creating the object is not hard, but I don't know any software that can do it out of the box. You just need to make the surface height correspond to the waveform. If I was doing this I would probably write a Python script to turn the wave file into a list of numbers, then paste those into in OpenSCAD's polygon function, which I would then extrude to make the object. But others might know an easier way.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Here's an alternative which takes advantage of the relatively (!!) high-precision layer capability of the 3D printer: Make a lithopane strip and use an optical sensor to reproduce the sound.
This is (was) done to encode the soundtrack for movies alongside the image frames in the film strip (reel). Basically the thickness of the print at a given location modulates the optical throughput and thus the signal strength out of the photodetector.
Note that, as with movie reels, you will need a lot of real estate to record a decent amount of audio.
> 2 votes
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Tags: quality
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thread-11182 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11182 | Why does hairspray work as an adhesive for ABS? | 2019-10-16T05:39:49.663 | # Question
Title: Why does hairspray work as an adhesive for ABS?
Since I have a 3D printer, I worked primarily with printing ABS. I tried multiple methods for adhesion (various soluble glues, ABS juice) but always had the most success with hairspray on clean borosilicate glass, as long as I print with a bed temperature above 75 °C and inside an enclosure.
So I wonder, if it is known, why and based on which chemicals the hairspray method works so well?
# Answer
First of all, not all hairsprays work. The chemicals in hairspray that causes the bonding is "VA/Crotonates Copolymer", it is also called "vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymer". Most commonly known as PVA, which is also a filament used as water soluble support material. This is a synthetic polymer created from monomers.
When heated to a certain temperature this ingredient becomes sticky, this makes the filament stick to the plate. It is the double bonded Oxygen molecule that makes this happen. This is not only present in chemicals you put onto the bed, but also the chemistry of certain bed materials. Quoting our own Ryan Carlyle from this thread, A replacement for Aquanet Hair Spray?? Wolfbite by Airwolf:
> Most of the popular build surfaces have very similar underlying chemistry. That's because they all rely on diffusion welding for adhesion. The molecular chains at the interface slightly dissolve into each other.
>
> Gluestick active ingredient - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinylpyrrolidone
>
> Aquanet and liquid PVA glue active ingredient - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl\_acetate
>
> If you're familiar with organic chemistry, what you see here is an identical polyvinyl backbone chain, and functional groups that both have a ketone/ester double-bonded oxygen adjacent to a space-filling component. (The space-filling component probably decreases adhesion so the print can be released.) And guess what? Permanent build plate surfaces rely on the same underlying chemistry:
>
> Lexan also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycarbonate
>
> Kapton also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton
>
> Acrylic also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poly(methyl\_methacrylate)
>
> PET also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene\_terephthalate
>
> Now, if you look at some common solvents for filaments, what do you often see? Double-bonded oxygen on small molecules. Here's ethyl acetate (dissolves PLA) and acetone (dissolves ABS):
>
> These molecules are still diffusing into the filament polymer, but they're so small and mobile that they are able to completely liquefy and dissolve the plastic.
>
> Isn't chemistry great?
> 16 votes
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Tags: fdm, adhesion
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thread-1109 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1109 | Which endstops are most precise? | 2016-05-05T13:24:37.353 | # Question
Title: Which endstops are most precise?
I have seen mechanical (micro switch), optical and magnetic(magnet + hall sensor) end stops.
Are there any differences in how exact they switch at the right location? If so which are the most precise?
# Answer
> 13 votes
There are some different criteria that we should use to select a switch type:
* Precision / repeatability: does the switch trigger at the same place every time? How much spread is there in the trigger position? Do environmental changes or machine setting changes affect the trigger position?
* Contact distance: does the switch register with enough clearance to its hard-stop that the homing axis can stop before colliding with something?
* Noise-rejection: does the switch ONLY trigger when it is supposed to?
It's important to ask, how much switch precision do we actually need? A typical 3d printer drivetrain using a microstepping stepper motor can only accurately position the moving load within +/- one 1/16th microstep (even if using finer microstepping than that) due to error-inducing effects like friction torque and magnetic detent angle error. That's around +/-0.01mm for most printers. The homing switch only needs to be as precise as the motor's positioning! Nothing is gained by having, say, 0.001mm precision endstops.
This precision of +/-0.01mm is achievable for all types of endstop switches, with proper switch selection and configuration.
Then there are three "standard" switching types in use in consumer/hobbyist 3d printers:
* Mechanical switches, typically dual NO/NC limit switches, which either pull up or pull down a signal pin by connecting an electrical circuit when triggered
* Optical switches, which use transistors to detect when an obstacle ("flag") is blocking the window between the emitter and sensor
* Hall effect switches, which use transistors to detect when a magnetic field exceeds a particular field strength cutoff
**Mechanical Switches**
Precision/repeatability depends on the switch quality, length of lever arm attached (longer increases contact distance but is worse for precision), and impact speed of the carriage with the switch. It's possible to have a good mechanical switch or a bad mechanical switch. This is typically a reasonable default choice because it is simple and cheap.
A small mechanical switch with a short lever arm (or the lever arm removed) will generally achieve the required +/-0.01mm switching precision. Very cheap switches, high contact speeds, and long lever arms may provide inadequate resolution for Z homing or probing, but will still be adequate for low-precision X and Y homing purposes.
Where mechanical switches tend to cause issues is in noise rejection. Different controller boards use different ways of wiring the switch: some use two wires and only send a signal when triggered. When not triggered, the signal wire is left floating or weakly pulled up by the microcontroller, while attached to a long wire that acts as an antenna to pick up EM noise. It is VERY common for heater or stepper wiring to emit nasty EMR due to the PWM current control. Two-wire endstop cables should always be run away from stepper and heater wiring. Shielding and twisting the conductors is a good idea too.
A more robust approach is to use three-wire switches that actively pull the signal line high or low depending on the switch position. These will tend to reject noise better.
Very cheap mechanical switches may fail within the life of the printer. However, most limit switches are rated for millions of cycles, which is unlikely to occur over any normal printer's lifespan.
Mechanical switches are easy to align and easy to trigger by hand during troubleshooting.
**Optical Switches**
These rely on a flag blocking a window between a light emitter and a detector. This is non-contact and can be quite reliable, but introduces some challenges. The exact trigger position (and thus precision) may depend on ambient light levels in the room, because the sensor is monitoring for light to decrease below a specific intensity. So it may be very repeatable/precise in the short term but have some drift if the sensor moves in and out of the sun through the day.
Switching tends to be more consistent and reliable if the flag enters the window from the side, rather than the top.
Optical switches will actively pull the signal line high or low, and thus have good electrical noise rejection.
**Hall Effect Switches**
These measure the intensity of the nearby magnetic field and trigger when it exceeds a certain amount in a certain polarity. This is highly precise/repeatable (better than +/-0.01mm) and extremely resistant to noise and environmental conditions. (Unless your printer is next to something that emits large magnetic fields, anyway.)
The hall switches I've seen have an adjustable trim pot to tune the trigger distance. That's a nice feature when trying to manually calibrate a Delta or a Z-bed for first layer height.
The primary downside to hall switches is that they need a magnet to trigger the switch. This can be difficult to trigger by hand during troubleshooting, and requires attaching a magnet somewhere on the moving carriage. Glue works fine... but don't glue the magnet in place backwards!
# Answer
> 5 votes
Thomas Sanladerer performed exactly the comparison you ask. Check the whole video.
The result is that inductive sensors are the most accurate, but they are highly dependent on the bed material chosen.
Mechanical switches (bare, no metallic arm) are about as accurate and keep the same accuracy with every bed material (however you need a mechanism to retract them, which may or may not decrease the accuracy).
Other sensors are less accurate.
In any case, most of them are already far better than required, since anything below 50 microns is fine and basically all of them reach that accuracy.
Choose based on other factors such as weight, installation, price. Inductive, after a calibration based on your specific bed, may be the easiest since they need no retraction, but they are bulky. BLtouch is probably the second choice, mechanical microswitches the third one.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I don't think there is a simple answer.
In my opinion, for a home sensor accuracy doesn't matter. Firmware usually allows setting an offset between the indicated position and the actual position. What really matters is repeatability. Every time the sensor indicates position, the position is the same.
**Mechanical Switches**
I have found through testing several mechanical switches that the "make" event is less repeatable than the "break" event. For best results, I move toward the position that closes the switch, then move in the opposite direction until the switch opens. If I remember correctly, I got "make" repeatability of about 0.02" (0.5 mm), and "break" repeatability of about 0.005" (0.13 mm).
**Optical Switches**
For a delta 3D printer, I use optical sensors. Optical sensors have a built-in illumination and sensor, usually on opposite sides of a forked structure. The sensor side has a slot which masks the light being received, helping to shroud it from ambient light. The slot is along an axis which is either aligned with the fork or normal to it. The flag you use for the interrupter should completely cover the slot, and for good repeatability edge of the flag must be parallel with the slot. In other words, some sensors expect the flag to enter from the side while other expect the flag to enter from the top. Either will work, but you need to choose the right sensor for the configuration of your machine.
**Ambient Light with Optical Switches**
Perhaps ambient light could be a problem. If so, it could be addressed by shading the sensor.
Let's assume that the LEDs in the sensor are the same efficiency as the ambient LED lights. For reference, here is a spec sheet for a typical optical interrupter used in optical sensors: http://www.isocom.com/images/stories/isocom/isocom\_new\_pdfs/H21A.pdf The package of the optical sensor is designed to reduce susceptibility to ambient light.
Light intensity falls off as distance^2, and the illuminators in the sensor are very close. How much effect does room light have on the sensor?
In my shop, I use 8-foot LED replacement bulbs for the fluorescent bulbs. With this, I have 72 watts of LED lighting, which, let's say, illuminate evenly the semi-sphere below the ceiling. A full sphere is 12.56 sr (steradians, or stereo-radians), so the half sphere is 6.28 steradians, for a power of 11.46 W/sr. At the sensor, this must be divided by the square of the distance, let's say 8 feet. This gives us (11.46 W/sr)/(96in^2) = 0.119 W/area.
The illuminating LED has a power (typically) of 1.2 V * 0.05 A, or 0.06 W. The light cone from a typical LED is about 30 degrees, which is 1 sr, for a power of 0.06 W/sr. Scaled for an estimate of the distance between the emitter and sensor of 4 mm or 0.157", is (0.06 W/sr)/(0.157in^2) = 2.43 W/area.
It seems unlikely that general ambient light will be a problem. If it were, the sensor mounting could be designed to shield the sensor from direct exposure to ambient light.
It is important with optical sensors to be sure the interrupting flag is actually opaque to the illuminator light. As I found, red PLA is not especially opaque to infrared light, so I needed to paint the flags with a black pigmented paint.
**Hall Effect Switches**
I have no experience with Hall effect magnetic limit switches. Other answers here have praised them because they have an adjustment which can be used to set the precise detection point. I don' t like adjustments because they drift. Pots are subject to wear, oxidation, and both slow and fast variation in their resistance. I would prefer to have something unadjustable and repeatable in hardware and use software to hold the calibration.
**Example of Hybrid Choice**
On a 6-axis delta architecture CNC machine I build, I use a hybrid approach to sensing home position. Mechanical switches indicate a position that is close to home, and the index pulse of a rotary encoder defines the precise home position. The homing firmware moves toward home until the mechanical switch closes, then away until it opens, then back toward home until it detects the index pulse. As there are six axes, there are six sets of these switches and encoders. Using a mechanical switch for the rough homing made sense for this machine because the index sensor is hit once per revolution, so it is not a unique indicator of home, and this machine creates a lot of dust and chips, which could block an optical sensor.
So, without an absolute answer, my preference is for optical switches for repeatability.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I think there are several factors involved in which sensors are best, but the general ordering for me would be Hall, Optical followed by mechanical. All of the types will be subject to some drift due to vibrations and changes in the printer over usage. Therefore it's the ease of adjustment as well as the accuracy of the stop which counts in the assessment.
In my experience the hall effect sensors are the most accurate and easiest. They don't rely on physical switching (as with the mechanical) meaning there is no "wear and tear" on the component and the point of switching will remain fixed. They have a potentiometer which can be adjusted to make the position of the stop change without any mechanical intervention allowing very fine tuning. They can be very accurate.
Optical are similarly accurate but usually have a fixed component that cuts the beam to switch on/off the sensor. The adjustment of the stop will usually be mechanical because the mount points will need to be adjusted - this reduces their accuracy. There are various adjustable mounts to alleviate this on thingyverse or the like.
Mechanical switches are similar to optical in terms of adjustment with the added inaccuracy of the actual switch mechanism which may degrade over time.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you take a look at the RepRap Wiki, they briefly explain these three switches:
* Mechanical
> *"**Mechanical Endstops** are the most basic form of endstops, made of an ordinary switch, two wires. Changing the switch state signals the electronics.*
* Optical
> *"These Optical Endstops observe the light level and reacts to sudden changes."*
* Magnetic
> *"These endstops; Hall effect sensors is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. Hall effect sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications."*
In regards to your question, it's dependent upon your circumstance. However, most of the time a good 'ol Mechanical Switch is repeatable and serves its purpose well.
I, personally, would place both optical and magnetic switches in the category of a multifunction component. Meaning, both of these types of switches <sup>(generally)</sup> provide a valuable range for object detection. This can potentially lead (depending on your machine) to a pushed command that tells your machine to slow down when it comes close to the soft stop.
Again, personally, I would be wary of using an optical endstop with potential white light noise from ambient room lighting or other sources. I could be wrong in my concern for some modules that address these kind of issues.
So, if we narrow down between mechanical and magnetic: \- Magnetic would provide a gentler approach, reducing (potentially) the amount of wear \- However, I'm assuming, magnetic switches require "dialing in" depending on the components used in the sensor. This could lead to an undesired range that the sensor is triggered. \- Mechanical switches are simple. They're either touching or not touching (on or off) \- A possible pro (or con) is the ability to manipulate the trigger manually, more easily. I've run into a situation a few times where I needed to manually trigger the endstop as part of a troubleshooting step. But, if you accidentally bump your endstop while the machine is running, no good.
# Answer
> 0 votes
A separate issue not addressed in other answers is that the end stops for X/Y axes have different requirements than those for the Z axis.
### X/Y Axes
When the printer offers XYZ calibration (like Prusa i3 MK2), the properties of the X and Y switches play a role, since for the Z probing the probe should be centered above the fiducials (copper circles) in the bed. The XY part of the calibration measures the position of the fiducials relative to the end-stop trigger point. Then the Z calibration measures the height of each fiducial.
When the XYZ calibration is not offered, there's usually no need for very repeatable positioning relative to the X and Y travel ends, and on most printers you could simply move the motors until they start skipping steps and call that a day - it will be accurate to within a few steps.
### Z Axis
The Z axis always has a high requirement on accuracy and repeatability, and there are two general approaches to determining its position:
1. No end-stops on the Z-axis drive system, a probe is mounted on the print head and is used to detect when the head is a certain distance above the print bed. This can be used for 9-point calibration of the bed shape and thus removes the need for bed levelling.
2. End-stops used on the Z-axis drive system. No sensor on the print head. The bed needs to be separately leveled in reference to the nozzle - thus the bed leveling screws.
### Delta Z
For Delta, you essentially have three Z axis drivers, and similar to the Cartesian XYZ drive, you don't need any end-stops if you have a probe on the print head. You can also perform multi-point bed leveling with such a probe.
### Other Approaches
X and Y endstops become unnecessary once you use closed-loop stepper control, such as Mechaduino or linear digital position sensors (e.g. as used in CNC machines).
The Z probe is still useful if you don't want to perform bed leveling manually.
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Tags: quality, endstop
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thread-8705 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8705 | Sunken and rough bottom layer | 2019-04-16T19:37:27.397 | # Question
Title: Sunken and rough bottom layer
Most of my part is printing very well, but I have problems in the bottom layer and in layers that are the first layers, but not necessarily layer 0.
Looking at the print quality troubleshooting, I can't find a problem that fits my needs. Using the terms over there, I would describe it as "gaps in bottom layer".
Photo from part A (RPi case top piece):
Photos from part B (RPi case bottom):
There is a really ugly screwhole (sorry for the blurry picture):
But in the same part, there's an almost perfect much better screwhole:
For the location on the print bed, it's here (both parts):
I have seen the question First bottom layer has gaps, where the OP has already tried a lot.
My thoughts so far:
* I don't want to generally lower the Z height, since it prints fine over a large area with a really flat and smooth surface.
* I'm not sure I should change the temperature settings. I use the i3 MK3 printer and I use Prusa PLA filament with Slic3r Prusa PLA filament settings.
* I don't understand many of the extrusion width / extrusion multiplier options of that question.
* I thought I might have had a fingerprint on the print plate. I typically avoid that by wearing gloves and cleaning the print bed with alcohol every fifth print or so. However, I didn't clean before any of the two parts. (I cleaned now)
**Given the description and the pictures, can you name the problem and suggest the most likely solution?**
Printer and filament details:
* Prusa i3 MK3
* Prusa PLA filament 1.75 mm, pearl blue
* 0.20 mm SPEED setting
* 20% infill
* 5mm Brim
* 215°C first layer, 210°C other layers
* 60°C bed temperature
* Prusa PLA default filament settings
I use a Prusa spring steel print bed. No special adhesion, tape or anything. Closest I could find in the shop is smooth PEI, but mine looks more golden.
# Answer
I know you said you don't want to change the Z height, but it does look like you're printing a bit too far from the plate. I would recommend adjusting your Z-offset if you can, or adjusting the limit switch (or whatever your Z-homing mechanism is)
> 2 votes
# Answer
Definitely the corner of your bed where print was worse is slightly unleveled (a little too low), because if you look the hole, it has artifacts too, probably because the nozzle was depositing the melted filament from a higher distance than on the "good" part.
You can see later in that hole, that the layers finally catch up with the rest, so:
* You need to correct the bed leveling on that corner (too low)
Also, the better part doesn't look right either. You can see the ring around the good hole doesn't close because the filament din't stick at the beginning of the circular movement. Plus, your first layer should be smoother than that, not wormy-like.
To experiment how to get a better first layer you need to tweak in very small amounts:
* The first layer height (I may need to be lower for you)
* The temperature (I don't think you need more temp for your first layer, probably the fans start blowing after the second layer anyways)
* The % of extruded material (you may increase it in very small amounts only for the first layer \[and only after a lower layer height didn't worked\])
* The speed of the first layer (it may need to be lower. imagine your nozzle is trying to print with chewing gum and what would happen if speeds are too high, PLA has a rubbery consistency when melted)
Also:
* Be sure the surface is clean
Dust and oils from manipulation on certain spots can cause the filament not to stick, even when you think is clean. I use alcohol when printing on a bare surface, change the masking tape, or use just a paper towel (when I'm using PEI sheet)
If that doesn't give you a a better first layer, but it is at least even, you will need to adjust your z-axis offset or level the entire bed up a little.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, slic3r
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thread-11194 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11194 | The part printed correctly except few layers | 2019-10-18T14:26:29.653 | # Question
Title: The part printed correctly except few layers
As you can see from the picture, the part is good except some missing layers near the bottom. I have tried to search for this problem but nothing similar appeared. So, what might be the cause and what is the name for this problem?
* Printer: Ender3, new.
* Slicer: Cura
* Nozzle: 0.4 mm
* Temperature:
+ 200 °C nozzle
+ 50 °C bed
* Material: PLA
* Print speed: 50 mm/s
# Answer
> 1 votes
This looks like either the nozzle had been clogged for some layers and it resolved itself or the g-code contained incorrect instructions.
I suggest altering your print settings slightly and reslicing, then just printing it again. To get more accuracy on the prints, I suggest a line width of 0.45 mm.
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Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3, print-failure
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thread-11187 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11187 | Sealant to increase Water-Resistance of SLS print | 2019-10-17T16:28:29.920 | # Question
Title: Sealant to increase Water-Resistance of SLS print
We are attempting to print some single-use prototypes using an SLS printer. The parts must be somewhat water-resistant for short-term usage, but do not have to been waterproof entirely.
According to this page, Post processing for SLS printed parts - Water tightness, any silicone type or vinyl-acrylate sealant should work well, but I was hoping that the Stack users here might have some specific suggestions.
Does anybody have specific recommendations for sealing SLS prints?
# Answer
> 1 votes
SLS prints from nylon are somewhat porous. This means, that they will let a stabilizer soak into the outer surface to some degree.
What kind of stabilizer is needed is depending somewhat on the properties you want, but generally I believe these might be useable depending on the viscosity:
* 2-component resins could be used, but they are usually very viscous. Their viscosity, however, is dependent on the exact type and mixture and could be altered by temperature.
* 1-component (*air-hardening*) resins or resin lacquers can be thinned to achieve a solution into which the item is then dunked and dripped off. How much thinner is adviseable depends on the exact material
* Nitrocellulose lacquer, like it is used in guitar building, is extremely fluid and could be used for treatment via dunking.
* PU lacquer could be used too.
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Tags: post-processing, sls, water-resistance
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thread-11202 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11202 | How to make symmetric Low-Poly objects in meshmixer? | 2019-10-19T11:54:53.300 | # Question
Title: How to make symmetric Low-Poly objects in meshmixer?
I've made low-poly objects using Reduce function in Meshmixer. My objects are symmetric and I want to keep the symmetry in the low-poly because it's more beautiful, But the software doesn't necessary keep the symmetry. using mirror function results in losing flat faces and many problems... Is there any specific way to make a symmetric low-poly?
# Answer
The best way would be to follow a four-step workflow:
1. Reduce complexity.
2. Cut the object along the symmetry plane.
3. Discard one half of the object.
4. Mirror the cut object along the cut symmetry plane.
> 2 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, stl, meshmixer
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thread-11201 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11201 | How to get rid of deforming small prints? | 2019-10-19T11:44:15.940 | # Question
Title: How to get rid of deforming small prints?
When printing a big base on the bed, I got no warping, but once I print small part (3 or less inches wide), there is a bit of warping on my piece as I remove it.
It is 2 inches wide by 1 mm thick by the base. It seems to be well sticked to the bed while printing, but once removed, it bends a bit. I tried multiple times and it bends at a different place.
I was wondering if it may be thicker if it won't bend at all.
Can you guys help me with it?
Here my Slic3r settings:
```
# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.1.0+win64 on 2019-10-19 at 11:38:38 UTC
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
bed_temperature = 60
bottom_fill_pattern = rectilinear
bottom_solid_layers = 7
brim_width = 5
cooling = 1
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 Y0 ; home X and Y axis\nG1 Z210 F5000 ; Send Z to top\nM84 ; disable motors\n
ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 1
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
external_perimeter_speed = 50%
extrusion_multiplier = 1
extrusion_width = 0.45
fan_always_on = 1
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_settings_id = "FlyingBear Ghost 4"
filament_type = PLA
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 20%
fill_pattern = stars
first_layer_bed_temperature = 65
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42
first_layer_height = 0.2
first_layer_speed = 30
first_layer_temperature = 200
infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
infill_overlap = 25%
infill_speed = 80
layer_height = 0.1
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
perimeter_speed = 45
print_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4
printer_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4
printer_technology = FFF
retract_before_travel = 1
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 1
retract_length = 0.8
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 209
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 40
seam_position = aligned
```
As I said, I got no problem adhering to the bed, it's when I remove it from the bed it becomes deformed.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Pla is flexible and can be shaped at temperatures as low as 50 deg C. To prevent deforming your prints in removing them, you should wait for the bed to reach room temperature. This takes about 5 minutes after a print ended.
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Tags: slic3r, warping
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thread-11162 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11162 | Makerbot Replicator 2X - restarts after heating | 2019-10-13T16:46:04.653 | # Question
Title: Makerbot Replicator 2X - restarts after heating
Really need some help. Let me run you through as much as possible. I have a Replicator 2x. I've owned this for around 2 weeks now (used). after some teething issues I've been printing really well all week.
I left a print for the first time to run on its own and when I returned it had stopped after approx 10 % was still on and on the main menu screen.
I removed the partial print and, since then, when I go to print or preheat it will reset near the maximum temperatures (230 °C extruder and 110 °C platform). Individually setting these, all achieve desired temperatures, and filament change still works.
* I swapped the left-hand-side (LHS) extruder parts for the right-hand-side (RHS) and tried a reprint, same result.
* I swapped the wiring at the board to use the LHS extruder wiring for the RHS. same.
* Disconnected the stepper motors and same issue.
* Reinstalled firmware; same result...
It was running the MM2X (dual extrusion) upgrade, and I was supplied with the original extruder and thermocouples, spent afternoon swapping and this has the same issue.
By reset, the whole unit goes dark (LCD and LED), beeps and back to main menu. It works with the bed unplugged, or the extruder heater unplugged, but not with both plugged in. Heard this being called brown out.
I'm guessing its the Mightyboard or the power pack. All lights are green on the board during running. I have a multimeter and can test the board if known values or a guide location is available.
Any help would be great, pulling my hair out.
# Answer
"Im guessing its the mightyboard or the power pack."
Right track there. Usually this symptom suggests your heaters are overtaxing your power supplies. Since you swapped extruders already, the heating elements and sensors in those are not likely to be an issue. That leaves the bed heating element and power supply.
A resistance measurement can help rule out the bed heater but since it works without the extruder, its probably not a severe issue there.
If I had to guess, I'd say power supply. If you can, rig up a meter to measure its output and cause the issue. If the voltage drops drastically in tune with your screen going dark, try to replace with a beefier (higher amperage) one.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, calibration, makerbot, heat-management, makerbot-replicator2
--- |
thread-11197 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11197 | In Cura, can I make my top and bottom layer be all perimiters? | 2019-10-19T07:59:20.990 | # Question
Title: In Cura, can I make my top and bottom layer be all perimiters?
I'm using Cura to slice my prints. I've noticed that when printing the bottom layer (and also the top layer, if it's flat), it first prints three walls, then fills in the middle by moving back and forth in straight lines.
I've noticed that for my parts, the walls look much nicer than the zig-zag pattern in the middle, and it also seems that the zig-zag part detaches from the bed quite easily, whereas the walls don't.
My parts would look much better, and possibly also stick better to the bed, if I set the number of walls to 100 or so, so that the parts would be entirely filled in with walls. But then the parts would be completely solid, which isn't what I want. So what I want to achieve is that the bottom layer (and if possible also the top layer) are printed as if the part was composed entirely of walls, but the other layers are printed with three walls as normal. Is this possible in Cura?
# Answer
I found the answer myself just after posting - I'm posting it because it might be helpful to other Cura novices.
There is a setting for this, it's just that it's not shown by default. In print settings, you have to click on the three lines next to the search box, and select "Show All Settings". Then you can find a setting called "Top/Bottom Pattern". Setting this to "concentric" does what I described.
Actually this setting affects not just the top and bottom layers, but all layers that are part of the top and bottom shell. This seems like a good thing, but if you really want to affect *just* the bottom layer, there's a setting "Bottom Pattern Initial Layer" that does this. There is also a setting under "Experimental" called "Top Surface Skin Pattern" that I think does the same for just the top layer.
In addition to "Concentric" there is also a "Zig Zag" option that's quite similar to the default "Lines" mode.
You can also change the visibility of settings in the preferences menu, to make these settings show up by default.
> 18 votes
# Answer
The latest Cura that I have (4.2.1) includes "Ironing" in its options. When I enabled this, it prints the top layer twice. The first time with extrusion and the second time with just a little bit of extrusion (default is 10%) at 90 degrees to the first one. This effectively "irons out" the zig-zag pattern giving you a nice smooth top to your parts. I was very impressed at how well this works (YMMV of course :-) ).
> 6 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-11186 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11186 | PLA printings always ~0.22% larger | 2019-10-17T00:04:54.390 | # Question
Title: PLA printings always ~0.22% larger
I was trying to print parts for a small CD-ROM drive based plotter based on this thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3521286
But as tolerances are very small and need to match the existing parts, I realized that my printed parts are actually a little bigger, I made a test with a part like this:
```
_ _
/ \ / \
\ .------------------------. ___
| [O]________________[O] | ^
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | |<--- 62mm ---->| | | |
| | | | 70mm
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
_| [O]________________[O] | _v_
/ '------------------------' \
\ _ / \ _ /
Side View:
[X] [X]
___[XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX]____
```
A squared and mouse-eared frame with two protruding 4mm cubes on each corner with inner distances of 62mm and outer of 70mm between each adjacent cubes.
I discovered that, after measuring many times and averaging distances, my model printed 0.227..% larger.
I've heard of shrinkage factor for ABS or Nylon, and people compensate scaling their models while slicing.
But what about PLA?
Im using:
* Anet A8
* Stock marlin firmware (not the Anet one)
* Flashforge natural PLA 1.75mm
* 0.4mm Nozzle
* 0.2mm layer height
* 0.4mm line width
* 210ºC extrusion temp
* 60ºC Bed temp
* 40mm/s print speed
* Fusion 360, Cura 2.7 or 4.3 and Octoprint.
The printed model is pretty flat, has no curvatures or artifacts either.
***Would this be an error of constants on my printer a known artifact from PLA?***
# Answer
You are not taking into account die swell.
When printing with a 3D printer hot plastic is forced through a nozzle, which leads to the expansion of the material. The result is, that with 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.4 mm intended line width, the material will actually deposit some fraction of a millimeter wider. In your test case, that is 0.22%. If you'd print a double-sized test piece, I expect 0.11%, and in case of a half-sized 0.44% - in other words, it is a static offset.
Because of this, it is usually better to demand wider lines than the nozzle is, forcing the die swell effect to become negligible in the wider line. I managed this with about 110% of the nozzle width on my machines.
Further Reading: Why is it conventional to set line width \> nozzle diameter?
> 2 votes
# Answer
There are several ways to try and adjust for this effect of squashing the material, which is ultimately about having enough space for the material you lay down.
As mentioned: You can try to pre-scale models (not very effective as a general solution because it is a function of the model and how many adjacent layers your material is forcing)
You can up the line width.
If your software allows, you can input a slightly larger filament diameter to lay a bit less material. (Wanted to stress this one as it's been pretty useful for me)
If you are intentionally undershooting the volume by some percentage via the filament diameter, it may help to play with the layer height to control the end result of the line's cross section.
I've had good results with a combination of the latter three (basically comes down to calibrating the printer to get settings for your desired material spool, and level of detail -\> sizes of line and layer for the print)
> 1 votes
# Answer
Cura has a fixed offset called "horizontal expansion", which can be set negatively. This way you can hardcode a -0.1mm offset for example. It worked for me where holes got too small and pegs got too thick.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: pla, slicing, anet-a8, scaling
--- |
thread-11214 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11214 | GRBL: inaccurate on X axis by ~4 mm on 400 mm | 2019-10-21T12:48:55.383 | # Question
Title: GRBL: inaccurate on X axis by ~4 mm on 400 mm
This is GRBL-related. I have a laser-engraver type machine, Chinese, ~550 mm X axis, aluminium extrusions, 2mm-pitch T belt, Nema 17H3430 motors, one mechanical homing switch for X, Arduino-based.
The X-axis accuracy is not up to par. When I make a mark on the X axis and jog to that mark (after homing), depending on the day, the position varies within ~4 mm or so. Sometimes I have to use G00 X-418, others G00 X-422.
I checked the belt tension, it seems OK, not too tight, not too loose. Is there something else I should check?
Another idea I have: put a homing switch on the other end of the X-axis, then home both ends of the X-axis, measuring the difference in machine position, then modify the steps/mm value for each session to force the command that puts me on the mark to be constant (e.g. G00 X-420). Any other ideas? Thanks.
# Answer
> 2 votes
This seems to be either a case of either belt slop or missed steps or it is a case of the accuracy of the limit switch.
If the limit switch moves even a little into either direction, you have to account twice that as the maximum error. So the 4 mm error could come from 2 mm into either direction from the 0-position.
However, there is a silver lining: Laser engraving, just like CNC, usually first dials in the 0 regarding the workpiece instead of the 0 of the machine. As long as the machine's movement is ok, you should be fine even without tightening the mounting of the X-endstop. I suggest to run the following test to find out what kind of error actually hounds you though:
1. Mount a waste piece
2. Go to a position on the workpiece
3. Run the laser for a split second
4. `X10`
5. Run the laser for a split second
6. Repeat 4&5 till you have 10 points
7. Measure the real distances between the dots engraved
If the distances are always the same but short, you have the wrong steps/mm set and need to adjust them accordingly. If the distances are inconsistent, you have either lost steps or a sloppy belt. To fight lost steps, carefully up the signal to the motor a little. If the results don't change from that, tighten the belt a little - it should sing like a guitar string.
---
Tags: laser, arduino, linear-motion
--- |
thread-11212 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11212 | How do I find the best settings for a resin? | 2019-10-21T03:18:12.477 | # Question
Title: How do I find the best settings for a resin?
I have an Epax X1, I have just purchased the 2nd and 3rd bottle of resin, but I don't know what are the best settings.
What is the best way to find the best settings for a new resin?
Is it possible to print a calibration object that starts with some settings and changes as it goes? For example starts with 12 seconds and decreases half second every 5 mm?
**EDIT**
The 2 resins I am dealing with right now are Nova3D and Elegoo. Any help with those two resins would help right now, but I would love to have a more generic answer that would allow me to explore and troubleshoot any resin without asking every time.
# Answer
Since every printer is slightly different (light intensity, for example), you probably want to run one of those 12-spot test patterns where each "spot" gets a different exposure time, then see what time works best.
I found a more general test pattern at Amerilabs Calibration File which may be useful. Not to mention a zillion other test patterns
> 2 votes
# Answer
This test is not just a verification solid, is a program that tries different exposures and shows them all side by side: https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration
The test doesn't move slower and slower, but it does something equivalent: keeps the plate in the same position while changing the bitmap.
**EDIT**
I tried the test, and I'm not happy about it. I tested the same black resin with the 0.02 and 0.05 layer thicknesses, and according to the tests I should use 8 seconds with the 0.02 and 6 seconds with the 0.05. This result goes against anything I heard about relation between layer thickness and exposure time.
I also read in an issue in the repository that the test is not reliable with clear resins. My 2 tests are so thin that my black resin is transparent. I don't know if this is a factor, it just doesn't feel right.
I will keep searching for a better test and update this post if I find one.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: resin, dlp
--- |
thread-11221 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11221 | Is it safe to use photon-resin-calibration for Epax printer? | 2019-10-22T02:25:47.980 | # Question
Title: Is it safe to use photon-resin-calibration for Epax printer?
This repository contains a calibration test for DLP printers.
As its file `Instructions.txt` says, it is an `ANYCUBIC RESIN EXPOSURE FINDER by X3msnake`.
Are all the files, both `.photon` and `.gcode`, compatible with the Epax X1 printer?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes, it seems to be.
I tried the test and it worked well.
---
Tags: resin, dlp
--- |
thread-11193 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11193 | Ender 3 Power Problem: Not starting up | 2019-10-18T09:17:53.320 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Power Problem: Not starting up
I have a Creality Ender 3, I've had it for just under 2 years and during a print one morning it suddenly stopped and powered itself off. After checking the fuse and other electronic components it still didn't power on. I purchased a new switch as I thought the problem was there but after replacing it is still did not turn on.
The printer has been working fine and there were no visible or audible anomalies. I urgently need this to be fixed.
# Answer
> 0 votes
@trish Thankyou for your help.
I did purchased the new power supply and everything works fine now.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, power-supply, repair
--- |
thread-11227 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11227 | Temperature settings not changing in Cura | 2019-10-23T11:19:31.237 | # Question
Title: Temperature settings not changing in Cura
I seem to have got Cura into a state where changing the material has no effect on the settings. I am a beginner with Cura, and I would like to understand what I've done wrong, and how I can undo it.
More details:
My part is meant to be printed in PETG, but I first did some test prints in PLA to get all the non-material related settings right (e.g. infill, top/bottom pattern, etc.). When I changed the material from "PLA" to "PETG", it gave me a popup saying that I had changed these settings and asking me if I wanted to keep or discard the changes - I selected keep. I'm pretty sure that temperature, fan speed etc. weren't on that list of changes, otherwise I would have pressed discard.
However, the temperature, fan speed etc. also didn't change, they all stayed at their appropriate values for PLA. This effect seems to be permanent - they stay at their PLA values even if I select 'Settings -\> Profile -\> Discard current changes' from the menu, or if I select the 'Draft' or 'High' profiles, which I haven't yet used.
I noticed also that if I go to 'Manage Profiles', I find that all three profiles include settings for the material, including a 200 degree printing temperature and a 60 degree bed temperature. I guess that these are overriding the settings associated with the material. I guess that these settings are not supposed to be in the profiles, so I want to understand how they got there and whether/how I should remove them.
It's possible that I did manually change those temperature settings for some previous print - but I wouldn't have expected that to have such a permanent effect.
# Answer
You're right in that the profile overrides the material. Cura's overriding precedence is as follows, where higher numbers override the lower numbers:
1. Cura's base defaults.
2. Printer specific settings.
3. Adjustments to the printer made in the Machine Settings dialogue.
4. Nozzle profiles.
5. Material profiles.
6. Quality levels (aka built-in profiles).
7. Custom profiles.
8. Settings not yet saved to a profile.
In the Cura GUI, once a setting has been saved to a profile, there is no way to really get it out again. You can only create a new profile and copy over all of your overrides.
However for the temperature you can still click on the little fx button next to the setting. This will restore the link from the setting to inherit again from different settings. In the case of printing temperature, the material profile actually adjusts the "Default Printing Temperature" setting. Clicking the fx button makes it go back to "use the Default Printing Temperature" so that your material's temperature is used again.
The same does not go for fan speed, sadly.
The Cura developers are planning to remove the fx button and replace it with a button to remove a setting override from a custom profile. That would fix your problem. It's not implemented yet though.
Source: Am Cura developer.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-8139 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8139 | Why did my printer's nozzle dig itself into my print? | 2019-02-02T22:09:25.580 | # Question
Title: Why did my printer's nozzle dig itself into my print?
I just completed my first print on my Ender-3 and when the print finalized itself the nozzle didn't elevate itself to clear away from the piece. I watched as the nozzle slowly lowered itself into my print and destroy it. Here is the gcode generated by Slic3r used:
```
; Filament-specific end gcode
G4 ; wait
M221 S100
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G91
G1 F1800 E-3
G90
G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif} ; Move print head up
G28 X0 ; home x and y axis
G1 Y180; Remove Print Position
M84 ; disable motors
M300 S2600 P100; Beep
; filament used = 24040.5mm (57.8cm3)
; total filament cost = 0.0
```
# Answer
> 5 votes
You are using **incorrect commands** in your end-code for the **incorrect tool** with respect to the print head raise.
Slic3r has no knowledge of the maximum printer height (as in variable `max_print_height`) because there is **no input field to specify this**, as can be seen in this partial screenshot:
However, in Slic3r PE (Prusa Edition), there is a possibility to enter such a value, as seen in the following partial screenshot:
Note that in both editions, the `Bed shape` interface is equivalent when `Set...` is pressed:
To use the raising of the head, respecting the maximum print height, in **Slic3r PE**, you need to add the following line:
```
{if layer_z < max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+60, max_print_height)}{endif}
```
This will parse fine in **Slic3r PE**, but not in **Slic3r** (as `max_print_height` is not known).
If you want such a command in **Slic3r**, you need to enter (for a printer with a maximum print height of 240 mm):
```
G1 Z{[z_offset]+min([layer_z]+3, 240)}
```
results in Slic3r for a 20x20x20 mm calibration cube with a zero `z_offset` to:
```
G1 Z23
```
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your print end code should have read something akin to this:
```
; Filament sy end gcode
G4 ; wait
M221 S100
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
; End code
G1 F1800 E-3 ; retract 3 mm
G1 Z30 ; Move print head up 30mm
G28 X0 ; home x and y axis
M84 ; disable motors
M300 S2600 P100; Beep
```
The problem with your end code is the `G90` for **absolute** measurements together with the formula `G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif}` to set the height. The printer itself doesn't calculate anything. That what it doesn't interpret, it ignores, interpreting that whole thing as something crazy like `G1 Z30` to force the printer to go to Absolute 30 mm above absolute 0. To fix it, your slicer would need to calculate `{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}` for the printer - which seems to come out to 30mm above the print and then an if-statement that is not started anywhere.
Going up 30 mm can be much easier be done by staying in `G91 ; relative measurements` and calling `G1 Z30` to go up another 30 mm, though this might be too high for the printer frame.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The same thing happened to me several years ago. My print was a fairly tall part for my delta printer, about 220 mm. In many previous prints, the print head would always go up after finishing, but what I didn't know was that the Slic3r finish print routine specified an absolute Z height of about 200 mm. When the tall part finished, the still-hot print head moved down and ruined the top of the print.
After figuring out that the routine had an absolute reference, I replaced it with a relative movement 20 mm up. It's worked fine since then. An easy fix.
---
Tags: g-code, creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-11236 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11236 | Cura 4.3.0 does not pause on Renkforce RF100 V2.2 | 2019-10-24T17:48:52.240 | # Question
Title: Cura 4.3.0 does not pause on Renkforce RF100 V2.2
Cura (version 4.3.0) has the ability to insert a post processing script to your print. I tried this for printing a key cover around my door key (similar to this question). I designed the STL file with Fusion 360 (version 2.0.6516) and verified that the height of the beginning of the top layers is exactly at 3.1 mm. The top layer itself has a height of 0.5 mm. In Cura I inserted a pause at height 3.1 mm.
I tried different post processing scripts:
* Pause at height
* Pause at height (BG printers)
* Pause at height for Repetier
After inserting the script I did the "slice" and saved the G-code to an SD card. When printing on my RF100 (firmware version 2.2) no script created a pause at all. All scripts printed the full key cover in one step.
The part of the G-Code that does the pause looks like this:
```
[...]
G1 X57.522 Y62.32 E134.15939
G1 X57.475 Y62.045 E134.1614
G0 F3000 X57.47 Y62.02
G0 X57.469 Y61.845
G1 F2400 E132.1614
G1 F600 Z4
;MESH:NONMESH
G0 F3000 X54.16 Y67.189 Z4
;TIME_ELAPSED:247.492714
;TYPE:CUSTOM
;added code by post processing
;script: PauseAtHeight.py
;current z: 4.15
;current height: 3.1500000000000004
M83 ; switch to relative E values for any needed retraction
G1 F300 Z5.15 ; move up a millimeter to get out of the way
G1 F9000 X190 Y190
G1 F300 Z15 ; too close to bed--move to at least 15mm
M104 S0 ; standby temperature
M0 ; Do the actual pause
M109 S210 ; resume temperature
G1 F300 Z5.15
G1 F9000 X63.338 Y61.621
G1 F300 Z4.15 ; move back down to resume height
G1 F9000
M82 ; switch back to absolute E values
G92 E132.1614
;LAYER:19
;MESH:0d0e86f0-0b59-4e06-9e77-78fe8e77be5b.stl
G0 X54.16 Y67.189 Z4.15
;TYPE:WALL-OUTER
G1 F600 Z3.15
G1 F2400 E134.1614
G1 F2040 X54.171 Y67.193 E134.16172
G1 X54.689 Y67.418 E134.17722
G1 X55.228 Y67.625 E134.19306
G1 X55.776 Y67.811 E134.20894
[...]
```
Cura out of the box has no machine setting for the RF100 v2, so I used the settings for the RF100 v1 and adjusted the dimensions of the width, depth and height to 120 mm. As G-code flavor I stayed with "Marlin".
What can I do? This question is not specific to a key cover. I could design this so I could insert the key at the end. But I really would like to know how to do a predefined pause during my print.
# Answer
> 2 votes
## G-code `M0` is not supported!<sup>1)</sup>
According to the original firmware of the RF100, the firmware is based on Marlin Firmware. From the original sources you can find that in order for `M0` (or `M1` which is a deprecated alias for `M0`) to work, you need an `ULTRA_LCD` supported LCD panel:
```
* "M" Codes
*
* M0 - Unconditional stop - Wait for user to press a button on the LCD (Only if ULTRA_LCD is enabled)
```
However, your printer does not support such an LCD panel, from the configuration.h can be read that the constant is disabled (`//` means that the line is treated as a comment and as such ignored by the compiler):
```
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general LCD support, also 16x2
```
**Therefore, these scripts will not work for your printer!**
*(Not your printer is running a very old version of Marlin; version 1.0.3)*
---
## Solution:
It is possible to manually change the G-code for a (in this case) Marlin based firmware<sup>2)</sup> (so no adding of a pause by Cura) by inserting a few lines to:
1. First set relative movement (`G91`), then retract a certain amount of filament (`G1 E-2 F500`) or alternatively use `G10` using predefined retraction definitions in `M207`;
2. Insert a dwell period by inserting the G-code `G4` (plus a time to wait), e.g. `G4 P2000` to dwell for 2000 milliseconds (alternatively, `G4 S2` will also pause for 2 seconds), please adjust the value to an adequate one in which you can insert the object;
3. First, unretract filament (`G1 E2 F500`) and then put the printer back in absolute movement (`G90` or alternatively use `G11` using predefined retraction definitions in `M207`.
---
<sup>1)</sup> <sub>*By your firmware version/implementation*</sub>
<sup>2)</sup> <sub>*Note that certain G-codes only work for certain firmwares! Fortunately, the original firmware of the RF100 is based on Marlin Firmware (unless it has been changed form the factory default.)*</sub>
---
Tags: marlin, ultimaker-cura, g-code
--- |
thread-9883 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9883 | Is the Sparkmaker good enough to print OO/HO small detail objects? | 2019-05-08T17:10:45.653 | # Question
Title: Is the Sparkmaker good enough to print OO/HO small detail objects?
I don't want this to be a specific producer question, but I would like to know if the Sparkmaker is good enough to print small details in OO/HO scale objects. I'm referring here to objects like furniture, and other house appliances at scale. I wasn't able to find any visuals with very small objects for this printer.
# Answer
> 3 votes
In general, resin printers can provide a level of detail that has to be viewed with a magnification device. The technology used in the printer will limit the resolution of the printed object. Laser based SLA printers will give the smallest resolution, while LCD panel based printers can be slightly more coarse.
The specifications on the web site for that printer indicate an X/Y resolution of 57 microns, which is 0.057 millimeters. One-sixteenth of a millimeter is quite a high resolution when it comes to 3D models.
According to the 'net HO scale is 1:87, described as 3.5 mm per foot, a peculiar comparison. Directly related to the resolution of the printer, 0.057 mm becomes 0.20 inches approximately. I suspect that an HO scale model does not require one-fifth of an inch detail level.
OO scale is slightly larger and would pose even less of a concern regarding fine resolution objects.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I own a Sparkmaker **FHD** whose X/Y resolution is 57µm. Z resolution (layer height) is up to the user, 25, 50 or 100µm being typical values. I have limited experience with it but the level of detail seems to be coherent with the specification.
The more popular (but less powerful in therm of UV light, so slower) Anycubic printers have a 2k screen and reach a X/Y resolution of 47µm. I think some printers with a 4k screen can reach down to 37µm X/Y resolution, even if the practical resolution is probably larger, due to some horizontal light diffusion in the screen upper layers and in the FEP film.
---
Tags: print-quality, resin, sparkmaker
--- |
thread-11240 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11240 | CoreXY Carriage moves on the Y when moving the X | 2019-10-25T15:44:26.073 | # Question
Title: CoreXY Carriage moves on the Y when moving the X
I have a custom designed and built CoreXY printer. I have noticed that when I order the X to move from one side to the other (right to left) that the Y axis moves back about 0.6 mm as well. When I move the X back (from left to right) the Y also moves forward approximately the same amount.
What property of the CoreXY system could be causing this? Note, I am using 608 bearings instead of toothed idler pulleys; which I hope to rectify soon.
Steps per mm from the Marlin configuration.h:
```
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 475.79, 482.87, 468.66, 188.1 }
```
Note, they are not the same for X and Y. This is because I am trying to run a calibration cube test on the machine.
# Answer
For a CoreXY printer to move an axis (X or Y) it requires both stepper motors to turn. If both turn the same direction (at the same speed with the same pulleys), the X-axis will move, if they rotate both in a different direction (at the same speed with the same pulleys) the Y axis will move (see image of CoreXY kinematics below). Rotation of a single stepper would cause a 45° printing pattern.
*All four corner points (two top pulleys and two bottom steppers) are fixed to the CoreXY frame*
It is therefore highly illogical that you need to use different values for your steps per mm (`X = 475.79` steps/mm, `Y = 482.87` steps/mm). If you need to use such values, this implies that your mechanical layout/mechanics is/are incorrect (skew frame, different pulley diameters, slip on pulley, incorrect tension of belts, etc.). It is advised to make them equal and check the mechanical layout and inspect all parts (pulley diameters) and make the tension equal (e.g. using a Belt Tension Gauge). If the head still moves in the perpendicular direction as commanded, you could try to calibrate from there.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, corexy
--- |
thread-11147 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11147 | How to extract 3D information from a 3D model for calibration? | 2019-10-10T15:00:44.160 | # Question
Title: How to extract 3D information from a 3D model for calibration?
I made two "OBJ" 3D models of myself using Sense 2 scanner and using photogrammetry with Meshroom.
I would like to extract some information about myself to be able to scale the model properly and to be able to compare the accuracy. For example, distance between shoulders or circumference of the neck/chest. Another option would be to hold a reference parallelepiped and then scale the model based on the known distance between faces.
How can I do that? I can calculate the distance between points I can click using Meshmixer, but circumference or the distance between parallel faces is more difficult. The tools Meshmixer offers for the purpose don't seem to work well.
What are my options?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Extracting various measurements from 3D models is easily done using the following free online tool:
https://0x00019913.github.io/meshy/
I scanned a person using the Sense 2 scanner and I compared the values from meshy for the hip and waist with those measured in real life one day after the scan: the difference was about 1 cm, which can easily be explained by the uncertainties in the choice of the measurement point and moment of the day.
This shows that both the 3D scanner and meshy are quite accurate. The tool is also very easy to use.
---
Tags: 3d-models
--- |
thread-11228 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11228 | What determines print start location on the build plate? | 2019-10-23T18:52:53.020 | # Question
Title: What determines print start location on the build plate?
I'm working with an older MakerBot Replicator clone, actually a Flashforge Creator 1, with original Creator firmware.
* I'm able to design objects, using Solidworks, and exporting the file as xxx.stl (ascii)
* Then I use Slic3r to generate tool paths with output as xxx.gcode
* finally, I use GPX UI to generate a xxx.x3g file.
I don't understand where on the build plate the print starts. Is that controlled by the 3d printer's firmware values, or something else in the chain from .stl --\> .gcode --\> x3g ?? Right now my prints start in the corner nearest 0,0.0, instead of in the middle of the build plate.
How do I control where to place the 3d print on the build plate?
edit: Apologies for the delay. As a result of the answers posted here, I did a whole bunch more testing. The initial response from @mick, seems to indicate that what you see in the Slicer preview is what you'll see on the print bed. That makes sense, but **that is definitely not what I'm seeing**. I definitely don't see anywhere anything that remotely looks like a check the box \[\] center. Here's what I do see:
When I drop the object into Slic3r, it goes to middle of build plate.
Unfortunately here's what gets printed.
# Attempt #1, off in space
# Attempt #2, Right Hand Margin
# Attempt #3, Near the front.
I tried moving the print head to center of build plate, thinking that might be a logical start point. No go. Print start moves head to home (rear right corner of print bed) then after elements heat up to temp, it seems to select a random spot on the build plate to start. I never touched the .x3g file between these attempts. So I'm right back to where I started, per the title of this posting "What determines print start location on the build plate?"
# Answer
So it turns out there are elements from each of the previous answers that make sense here, but its not a clear picture. I've spent a whole lot of time trying to make sense of this. I also upgraded my firmware to Sailfish.
For the MakerBot Replicator (or FastForge Creator) family of 3d printers, the origin of the build plate is NOT at any of the corners, its right in the center of the build plate. Reference here.
> 4.1 Home Offsets:
> By convention, **the center of the build platform** is assumed to be the point (0,0,0) in XYZ space. The X, Y, and Z **home offsets** tell the printer the location of the X, Y, and Z **endstops** in relation to the build platform’s center.
Looks like this:
And it would appear that most other 3D printers are not using this convention. Sigh. From my testing, the main control of print location is within the G-Code generated by the slicer. The tool I was using, Slic3r does give one a chance to correct that adjustment. You have to go to top menu `Settings --> Printer Settings --> Size and Coordinates (Bed Shape) --> Set` to get a nice popup visual tool. See below.
Unfortunately the default setting is accurate for the overall bed size, but is a fail for the origin location on the bed. The default origin is set at 0,0, in the corner. Ouch. Big ouch. The origin needs to be located right in the center of the build plate (to be consistent with the firmware controlling the print for this family of printers). It **should** look like this:
Note, when you tell the printer to go to 'home' it doesn't go to origin (0,0,0) it goes to the endstops.
```
G68 X0 Y0 F500 ; Perform Homing Routine
```
So as long as you understand the quirks of these printers things will work out. You have to ensure offsets are set accurately in firmware config files. (Replicator / Sailfish) And you have to indicate the correct center location to the slicer program. I will say the advice given here was of some help in understanding this. Many thanks. I'm posting here in case others using the Replicator or FastForge Creator series of printers is having troubles centering their prints on the build plate.
Additional info for anybody using a MakerBot Replicator or Flashforge Creator series printer with Slic3r. I wanted to add my custom G-code stuff. The default Slic3r stuff definitely did not work.
Printer Settings --\> Custom G-Code --\> Start G-Code
```
M103 ; Turn all extruders off, Extruder Retraction
G21 ; set units to mm
G90 ; Use absolute coordinates
(**** begin homing ****)
G162 X Y F2500 ; home XY axes to maximum stops
G161 Z F1100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop
G92 Z-5 ; Set Position Z =-5mm
G1 Z0.0 ; move Z to "0"
G161 Z F100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop slowly
M132 X Y Z A B ; Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis
; Loads the axis offset of the current home position from the EEPROM and waits for the buffer to empty.
G90 ; Use absolute coordinates
G1 X0 Y0 Z50 F3300.0 ; move to waiting position near center of build plate
```
Printer Settings --\> Custom G-Code --\> End G-Code
```
M109 S0 T0 ; Cool down the build platform
M104 S0 T0 ; Cool down the Right Extruder
M104 S0 T1 ; Cool down the Left Extruder
M73 P100 ; End build progress
G0 Z150 ; Send Z axis to bottom of machine
M18 ; Disable steppers
G162 X Y F2500 ; Home XY endstops
M18 ; Disable stepper motors
M70 P30 ; We <3 Making Things! Yipee, you made it...
; display message above for 30 seconds
M72 P1 ; Play Ta-Da song
```
One other thing I do with Slic3r. I print a single loop of print on the periphery of a phantom skirt. I do this as a printer head clean extrude exercise.
Print Settings --\> Skirt and Brim --\> Skirt --\> Loops (minimum): 1, Distance from object: 6mm, Skirt height: 1 This works well. I do this in lieu of the G-code startup used in ReplicatorG software (which went to the lower left hand corner, and did this odd 4mm extrude exercise, with odd timing...) The skirt thing works just fine.
> 5 votes
# Answer
It sounds like you have "Origin at center" checked in your slicer's printer definition. That is generally only used with delta printers. Most Cartesian printers have the origin at the front-left corner of the build plate. Uncheck "Origin at center" and re-slice.
Providing that you have set up your slicer with the build plate dimensions and origin correctly defined, your models will be printed where the slicer shows them in the preview. You can rearrange the models before you slice, of course.
> 3 votes
# Answer
STL files contain an origin. However, this is totally ignored when generating G-code, the slicer chooses the origin based on settings.
G-code itself is a string of commands. One of these `G28` calls for the origin of the machine to be found by moving mechanically to this position. Usually, it is all formatted to take this or the power-up position as 0 and then moves relative to that. It always moves in reference to the last position, or this 0 (absolute mode).
.x3d is an XML type of file that describes a 3D model. It reformats G-code to be read by different types of machines. It too only moves with reference to the last position, taking the position on powerup as 0 to move against unless homed.
## Convention
The convention for CNC is, that the front-top-left corner of the workpiece is to be $\\{0;0;0\\}$ as the origin for the right-hand-rule. CNC then usually operates in a purely positive XY area and only works in negative Z, which is fitting for cutting. It doesn't preclude negative areas as to achieve cuts, going into the negative room is sometimes mandatory.
Taking this convention to 3D printing puts the front-left(-bottom) corner of the build plate (volume) to be the origin, because of the right-hand rule: The coordinate room is then strictly positive in XYZ (right as X, back for Y, up for Z), all absolute, strictly positive coordinates within the positive build volume can be moved to. However, instead of allowing negative coordinates, 3D printing does not allow any coordinates outside of the build volume that is ranged from 0 to the maxima set in the firmware.
This convention fails for Delta printers, which pretty much extrapolate the heights of the individual steppers via trigonometric calculations from cylinder coordinates $\\{ r ; \phi ; z\\}$ \- radius, an angle of 0° to 360° and the Z-coordinate. In this coordinate room, math gets much easier putting 0 into the center of the build plate, which is circular; The transformation to cartesian coordinates is $\\{ r \cos(\phi) ; r\sin(\phi) ; z\\}$; the inverse transformation from cartesian to cylinder coordinates is somewhat more complex and uses case differentiation..
## Error
Let's say the build plate has dimensions $a$ and $b$ and the corner with the green clip is $\\{0;0;0\\}$. The item is sliced to the position $\\{a/2 ; b/2\\}$ of the bed. It appears at $\\{a ; b/2\\}$ and $\\{a/2 ; b\\}$ respectively. This hints that the center of the bed is somehow taken as one of the coordinates.
If the corner without the clip is assumed as $\\{0;0;0\\}$, then X should be to the right, Y to the front following the right-hand-rule. To see if the coordinates might be skewed, the following command snippet would be useful. Please execute them one by one.
```
G28 ; home
G1 Z5 ; lift off the bed 5 mm to prevent accidental collisions
G1 X50 F500 ; move 50 mm to positive X - in case of back-right corner home this is to the LEFT
G1 Y50 F500 ; move to what ends up 50 50 5 - in case of back-right corner home this is to the FRONT
```
### Fixing
The problem is *probably not* the slicer but most likely the firmware defining either the movement axis or the home wrong (either the wrong corner is chosen or the movement axis are defined incorrectly) on the printer. It seems to be totally messed up and should be reflashed with a fresh copy.
It would be a good chance to learn by taking a Blanco variant of marlin and adjusting it to the own printer by chucking in the dimensions into `configuration.h` and starting from there.
> 2 votes
# Answer
First of all, the firmware determines where your origin of the printer is. This implies that you need to properly set bed dimensions and offset values from the end stop switches in the firmware (usually not necessary out-of-the-box, but important when a newer or different firmware version is uploaded). These offsets determine where the origin of the bed plate is located. For Marlin firmware it is very common to have the origin specified at the front left corner (when facing the printer). From the configuration of Marlin we find that by definition the origin is in the front-left corner (note that this can be rotated 180 degrees in certain printers, so the aft-right):
```
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
```
**How do I find the physical origin of the printer?**
This can be tested by instructing the head/nozzle to go to e.g. (0, 0, 15) using a terminal/console or a simple G-code file with a move to that coordinate that you print from SD card (e.g. `G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500`); *note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!*. When this is performed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but this may be different depending on the firmware settings or firmware brand.
Next step is to configure the slicer as such that this coincides with the actual origin. Incorrect slicer settings can cause the slicer to assume the origin is at a different position than your actual position. In Ultimaker Cura, the "Origin at center" is notoriously known for this when the physical origin is not in the center, but in a corner.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: slic3r, flashforge-creator
--- |
thread-11199 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11199 | Technique for removing support from Ultimaker 2+? | 2019-10-19T10:21:52.463 | # Question
Title: Technique for removing support from Ultimaker 2+?
I have made some prints with the Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 2 Extended+. The prints are in PLA. For slicing, I use Cura and I check the support checkbox (haven't gone to advanced settings to adjust support yet). I can clearly see that there is a little space between the support and the print. The supports often look like long pillars and such.
My question then is: "What is the best technique for removing the support?". Is it to use a knife, pliers or perhaps PLA-water? Is it possible to use PLA-water to remove support when printed with Ulitmaker 2+ or is that just the Ultimaker 3? What type of technique would give a good looking print?
Ultimaker 3 has support filament that's water-soluble. Is there something similar for Ultimaker 2+?
# Answer
> 3 votes
The Ultimaker 2+ is a single extruder 3D printer. Without changing the PLA spool and PVA spool continuously during the print you practically cannot make water soluble supports on the Ultimaker 2+ which can be done on the Ultimaker 3. Note that PVA (from experience) is strange material to print, the filament is very hygroscopic and will form bubbles during printing when moist. Also, PVA is prone to clog the nozzle (it cooks easily) it therefore has its own printer core (nozzle assembly) on the Ultimaker 3 (still it clogs easily). Furthermore, it takes a while to dissolve in water.
If you have a single extruder and nozzle, your best option is to use the same material for support, but modify the support settings as such that it can be easily removed. E.g. on thin layer heights (0.1 mm) I usually increase the gap between support and product over the default value, see this answer.
On dual extruder printers, e.g. on the Ultimaker 3 and S5, my colleagues have better experience using Ultimaker Breakaway filament rather than using PVA. As with the PLA supports, you need to "break them away" from the actual product; I use a Leatherman Charge or FREE P4 as these tools have fine pointed pliers. Note that there are removal tools available that are best described as soldering irons that can aid in the removal of support structures:
Note that I have mixed feelings about this product; it is hard to neatly remove supports using these small soldering irons, but it sometimes works.
# Answer
> 1 votes
PLA and ABS are hard plastics. They are not water-soluble. If you print with these materials, just snap printed support materials off and clean the interface layer with a knife and sanding.
To remove the support, it is best to use strong tweezers or a pair of pliers to grip and then apply some force. Generally, I use needle pliers, but occasionally I also use snippets to cut up the support towers into more manageable chunks and keep the printed part safer. It can help to remove it in pieces and score the breaking lines.
As PLA is brittle, I prefer to break away from the object and not pull.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, pla, support-structures, ultimaker-2
--- |
thread-11263 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11263 | Ender 3 Pro extruder drive rocking back and forth | 2019-10-30T00:10:07.520 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro extruder drive rocking back and forth
I've been running this Ender 3 Pro for quite some time with no problem up until recently. The issue was the printer refused to extrude filament (the extruder stepper seems to be rocking back and forth) so I went through a few things to try and fix the problem:
* I leveled the bed properly
* I printed at higher temperatures (215 °C for PLA which is the only filament I run in this printer)
* I cleaned the nozzle and I actually replaced the nozzle with a new 0.4 mm nozzle (same size as before)
* I replaced my Bowden tube with a newer one (unbranded) and even replaced the tube fittings for the extruder assembly and the heat sink.
I saw somewhere that maybe the wiring to the extruder gear is frayed but I inspected the extruder side of the connector and everything looks fine. I would open up the box and everything but I want to see if anyone has a solution before opening up the circuit box.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Sounds like one end or the other in your stepper cable is not seated correctly or has shaken loose there are 4 wires if even one doesn't make proper contact you will get a shaking back and forth almost like a hard vibration. I always take a cable from one of the other steppers plug into this one move the motor with good stepper wire 10-20 mm see what motor does if it is okay then you know it is a cable issue if not, it could be a bad board or stepper.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, extrusion, wiring, extruder-driver
--- |
thread-4263 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4263 | Auto leveling with Marlin and RAMPS 1.4 does not work | 2017-06-19T16:24:45.330 | # Question
Title: Auto leveling with Marlin and RAMPS 1.4 does not work
I configured Marlin 1.1.3 for auto-leveling with a fix mounted sensor connected to the Z end-stop pin.
I have the following settings in my config:
```
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 25
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 20
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 7
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
// The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 25
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 150
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 180
```
I enter `M111 S38` to enable LEVELING+INFO+ERROR debugging. Then I enter `G28` to home all axes and then enter `G29` to start auto-leveling.
The auto-leveling starts successfully and after finishing I see the scan grid in console:
```
12:41:35.983 : Bilinear Leveling Grid:
12:41:35.983 : 0 1 2 3 4 5 6
12:41:35.983 : 0 -3.127 -3.405 -3.405 -3.292 -3.595 -3.487 -3.537
12:41:35.983 : 1 -3.110 -3.367 -3.337 -3.220 -3.470 -3.350 -3.365
12:41:35.983 : 2 -3.138 -3.367 -3.330 -3.215 -3.442 -3.345 -3.385
12:41:35.984 : 3 -3.013 -3.225 -3.182 -3.047 -3.225 -3.132 -3.150
12:41:35.984 : 4 -2.970 -3.165 -3.097 -2.972 -3.160 -3.045 -3.065
12:41:35.984 : 5 -2.875 -3.075 -3.005 -2.847 -2.990 -2.872 -2.875
12:41:35.984 : 6 -2.680 -2.845 -2.755 -2.615 -2.753 -2.617 -2.622
12:41:35.985 : G29 uncorrected Z:10.00
12:41:35.985 : corrected Z:12.85
12:41:35.985 : <<< gcode_G29
12:41:35.985 : X:120.00 Y:160.00 Z:12.85 E:0.00 Count X:9600 Y:12800 Z:4000
12:41:35.985 : current_position=(120.00, 160.00, 12.85) : sync_plan_position
```
So the auto-leveling scanning seems to be successful.
Here is a visual of the leveling grid (but upside down to make it easier to view):
Naturally I **DO NOT** enter `G28` after the scanning.
I enter `G0 Z1` to down nozzle almost to table. But when I enter for example `G0 X25 Y30` and look at level and then I enter `G0 X150 Y150` I see the big difference between nozzle levels relatively to table. So it seems that height compensation does not work. I expect that Z axis would lift up or down depending on auto-leveling results but Z motor do not work when I move X/Y.
By the way I tried 3 point autoleveling. It was pretty rough but Z axis corrected it's level when I moved axes using `G0` commands. And to avoid questions "why my table is inclined so much?" I deliberately inclined the table to be sure that auto leveling works. By the way, I tried different `Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER` so the current 0 setting is not actual but situation is the same with any value of this option.
What I am doing wrong?
# Answer
Bed leveling is disabled by default. So the mesh was scanned but is not apllied after G29 command. To apply the mesh we need to enable bed leveling using
```
M420 S1
```
command
> 3 votes
# Answer
In additional to Sergey's answer `M420 S1` should be put into custom start G-code. By default Marlin disables autobed after `G28` unless specifically configured otherwise
```
/**
* Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable
* this option to have G28 restore the prior leveling state.
*/
#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
```
> 3 votes
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling
--- |
thread-11268 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11268 | Starting G-code for auto Z probe offset | 2019-10-31T02:56:02.650 | # Question
Title: Starting G-code for auto Z probe offset
So, I like to take off my glass build plate from my printer bed because I don't like to put any force on the bed bearings but this presents an issue. I have an inductive bed leveling probe and each time I remove the plate the Z offset seems to be off on the next print.
Instead of re-leveling my bed and setting the Z offset by hand, I thought of adding starting G-code to do that for me but I've hit a snag. I have an Ender 3 and use Slic3r.
The sequence of events I would like is as follows:
1. `G28` \- home axis
2. `G0 X150 Y130 Z5` \- Moves to X150 Y130 Z5
3. `G30 S1` \- Performs a bed leveling probe at the current point. This raises the head 10 mm and stops when the probe is triggered. The current Z height this stops at is what I want for the next command.
4. `M851 Z`\[insert Z height from prev command here\]
I know Slic3r has these placeholder values for some commands like `M109 S`\[temperature\_0\] in the square brackets. Is there one for the current Z height?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The inductive sensors trigger to the metal plate under the glass bed. This implies that if you remove the slate of glass, the distance between the trigger point and the print bed is increased by the thickness of the glass slate. But, the trigger point is still exactly the same as if there were a slate of glass (as it triggers on the metal bed underneath). This extra distance need to be compensated for.
The method you are using is incorrect in determining the distance between the nozzle and bed with respect to the sensor trigger point. This answer on question: "Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup" describes how you need to determine the distance between nozzle and bed from the trigger point. It includes a manual step to lower the nozzle a paper thickness above the build plate.
If you insist on using G-code (e.g. in your start G-code script), you can redefine the Z=0 level by adding a G-code `G92`. In case of a 3 mm glass plate, you should add after the homing (`G28`) and probing of the bed (`G29`) the following:
```
G1 Z0 ; This will move the nozzle to Z=0 as if there was a slate of glass,
but in fact it is still 3 mm offset
G92 Z3 ; This redefines the old Z=0 (with glass) to be Z=3 mm
```
---
Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3, slic3r
--- |
thread-11272 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11272 | How to wire for AC mains voltage relay, when printer board is connected to AC-charging laptop computer? | 2019-11-01T02:43:45.477 | # Question
Title: How to wire for AC mains voltage relay, when printer board is connected to AC-charging laptop computer?
I know this will be a really obvious question to some people, but I have bricked about 3 boards doing this so I want to be certain before I brick a fourth. I don't have a lot of experience working with AC voltage, especially crimping / hacking it like what's going on here. Trust me it was my last resort to ask this.
Basically, as a chamber heater I'm using some 120V heat lamps (here in the U.S.). The problem seems to be that when I connect my laptop to the board (if the laptop is plugged in, which it has to be for long-term serial control), sometimes I:
1. Hear an electric shock sound -- the board is fried
2. Don't hear an electric shock sound -- the board is fried, though
What I interpret from this is that I'm stupidly wiring the 120V heat lamps incorrectly relative to my 3D printer board, such that when I connect it to my charging laptop via USB, the AC voltages are out of phase, causing my board to be fried. Alternatively, it's the 12V/24V power supply that's wired wrong relative to everything else, which also needs to be wired to the same polarity.
I was on the understanding that when crimping a three-wire male electrical cord:
1. White = Neutral
2. Black = Hot (or Load)
3. Green = Ground
... reinforced on the left side of the below image as well:
So, I know that much already. **The question is**, when I connect this AC outlet to a relay like this, I got `NO`, `COM`, `NC` on one side and `IN`, `DC+`, `DC-` on the other. Which wire goes to `COM`, and which goes to `D-`? The board uses `COM` to denote the voltage that is switched 'on' by the relay, and `D-` to denote whatever the shared ground is among, the 3D printer, heat lamp, printer board, etc... (For more info, see link to relay)
This 5V relay says it supports AC loads being managed by an arduino / 3D printer, so I was under the impression that I could connect the white wire to its `D-` pin (which also should receive the "GND" for my 3D printer board) and the black wire to its `COM` pin. However, what do I do about the green wire? Nothing? Also, was it wrong for me to assume it would support this function when the Arduino is connected to a charging laptop via USB?
Basically, I just need to be sure that my laptop (3-prong), power supply (3-prong), heat lamps (2 or 3 prong) and relay (only 2-prong) all have matching polarities and don't cause an electric shock or fry my board. But I am getting really conflicting results and frying a lot of boards, probably by overthinking this.
# Answer
> 9 votes
In effect, the ground (from mains) does not need to be connected to the relay, the relay interrupts the "hot" or "neutral" (preferably the "hot", but that is not possible for all plugs, e.g. some European plugs can be inserted 180° turned into the sockets). You connect one of the interrupted wires to the `COM`, the other interrupted wire (that goes to the lamps) to the `NO` (or the `NC`, depending on safety, the logic and/or preference). The ground wire from the mains power socket is not necessary at all (some lamp amratures require this to be connected though). See a schematic below, it uses an Arduino Uno, but you can think of it being the printer board. Note to never connect the ground from mains to the printer board directly!
<sub>Image based on source: osoyoo.com</sub>
The logic (low voltage side of the relay) needs to be wired as follows:
* `DC+` is the voltage power supply of the relay module, this is frequently +5 V, but some modules use +3.3 V (sometimes there is a jumper cap to select the voltage)
* `DC-` is the ground from the printer board
* `IN` is the trigger that needs to be connected to the port on the printer board that electronically switches the relay
# Answer
> 6 votes
You need to take a step back and think about what you are doing. From what I read there you are connecting the neutral to the low voltage. You should definitely not mix connections between your high and low voltage side. I think you are lucky to not have broken more things than the logic board.
I quickly drafted this to show the idea.
The relay provides isolation so you do not want any connections crossing over that electrically connects the sides. So you keep the 120V mains stuff on one side and the other side you connect to your logic board and printer supply.
The grounds you can join to a common point or printer frame. I would never join L or N from different cables because at least here in Northern Europe our outlets are not keyed and can be rotated 180-degrees swapping L & N which would create a dead short.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Mains electric specialist here. When working in mains power, mechanical execution of work is *everything*.
The first rule is do not casually mess around with mains power -- it will kill you! If you've done a lot of low-voltage tinkering with jury-rigged wires splayed all over the place -- **do not do that with mains wiring. Ever**. Break that habit with mains!
The second rule is hard separation. It is absolutely forbidden, for instance, to have low voltage wires intermingled with mains in a jumble, even inside a metal box.
## A "Chinese wall" between mains and low-voltage
By which I *don't* mean low quality. Generally all wires associated with mains should be inside a grounded metal enclosure, and all low-voltage wires should be outside that enclosure, or separated by a physical divider.
Here is an ideal setup that will pass muster.
* A standard square drawn steel junction box, with knockout holes, \\$1
* a #10-32 ground screw for that hole on the bump
* A cover plate, \\$1, made to take ....
* ... two common receptacles, but get the higher quality screw-and-clamp type \- $2.50 each so we can use stranded wire. I'm assuming you have more than 2 lights. If not, you can wire this thing so half the sockets are always-on.
* a couple feet of #12 stranded THHN wire, each red, black and white (20 cents/foot)
* A relay-transformer that mounts to a knockout hole.
For now just imagine 3 mains wires coming in: black hot, white neutral and green earth. Earth goes to that #10-32 screw hole on the bump, and the metal case grounds everything else.
I pigtail wires on receptacles because it's easier, but it's also clearer for a novice (than using a receptacle as a splice block). On the receptacles, pigtail neutral with **white**. Hot gets a **red** pigtail if switched, and **black** if always-on.
Fit the relay into a knockout hole, mains wires inward.
Now you have a bunch of black, red, and white wires. Join them by color! Easy peasy! This is why I made such a fuss about getting 3 colors of THHN wire.
Button it all up, and the mains work is done.
## Getting power into our box
I glossed over bringing mains supply into this box. Let's review that further.
That junction box is made to mount on a wall. It's a code violation to use it as a portable box (but lots of people do). However you must use **cordage** (SJOW, SJOOW etc.) not in-wall wiring (NM, THHN, UF). I just buy a 14 AWG extension cord and lop the socket off. Visit the electrical supply house (Greybar, not Mouser) and get a strain relief that'll fit that cord and a knockout hole.
If you want to mount it on the wall over another box, they make special 4" square boxes for that. If the existing box is a similar box, they make "extension boxes" with open backs. They also make ones designed to go over top of a 1-gang box that is metal or plastic.
If you need the existing outlet space on the wall, you can use surface conduit systems like Legrand Wiremold (not to be confused with cable organizers intended for low-voltage cables only). You extend off an existing outlet, leaving that with its original function, then run surface conduit to another box, where you mount these items.
## Make the system talk to it
That was a lot of heavy lifting, but the rest is downhill.
On the above relay, you simply attach 2 wires to W and R. (in fact, common thermostat cable is "W"hite and "R"ed, coincidence: not). If you short those wires to each other, the relay operates and the lights turn on. Use an appropriate relay if needed. There is low voltage AC on these wires (24VAC between them, 34V peak, isolated from earth and mains) which means you can route these wires without mains-level protection.
They make other relay-transformers, but I really like how this one puts the low-voltage on opposite sides of the knockout from the mains. They also make cheaper relays that accept 24VDC or even 12VDC, but then you have to supply that.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Let's look at the notes on the relay first, as these tell us what to connect the terminals to.
## Powered side
* `NO`/`NC` \- Normally Open/Normally Closed lead. Which you use determines the switching behavior: open line on signal (NC) or closed line on signal (NO). Connect this to the powered component.
+ For heater components **it is best to use NO**, as a failure of a signal automatically stops heating, making this a safety means! If any of the supply wires are ripped or pulled from the terminals or the board is fried, the power of the heater doesn't come through.
* `COM` \- Common. This is the other lead of the switch part of the component, the line that transports the power to the switch. Connect this to the power supply.
## Low Voltage signal side
* `IN` \- Input. Here the switch signal goes in
+ This is a 5 V Signal
* `DC+`/`DC-` \- This is the power supply for the switch and should be the same as the power supply for the Board. Check your Rating!
+ Red "High" on DC+
+ Black "Low" on DC-
Note I used European colors to differentiate the 5 V side from the mains-power side better. You have your Neutral in white, Phase in black, Ground in green on your Power Supply picture. This color conversion can be handy.
If the heater lamp has a connection for the ground wire, use it! This should be the same ground wire the power supply is connected to, to ensure safety.
---
Tags: wiring, chamber
--- |
thread-11266 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11266 | Print not centered | 2019-10-30T18:03:36.297 | # Question
Title: Print not centered
I have a Colido 2.0 printer that I cannot seem to get a print centered on the plate. I am using Slic3r and OctoPrint. If I use Repetier Host directly connected, I can get it to print correctly. I'm guessing Slic3r is the culprit but I can't find where. Any suggestions?
Can't post a picture of the actual print. It is printing partially off what would be the left side of the bed according to Slic3r.
# Answer
From your screenshots of the bed shape can be seen that the bed size is defined as 228 x 150 mm with a definition of the origin at (0, 0).
From an internet search the bed size of the Colido 2.0 is found to be 225 x 145 x 150 mm. This implies that the current setup is slightly incorrect.
Note that this needs to coincide with the way the firmware has been configured. The accepted answer on question: "What determines print start location on the build plate?" shows that the origin not necessarily need to be at the corner of the build plate, it can also be at the center; this depends on the firmware brand. This answer explains that you can find out where the origin is located. Basically, you need to prepare a G-code file containing at least homing (`G28`), optionally bed levelling if your printer has auto bed levelling (`G29`) and a move to the origin (`G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500`); *note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!*. You can edit an existing G-code file for this or create a new text file from scratch saving the file with a `.g` extension. When this is "printed"/executed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but can also be the center of the plate.
If the nozzle centers in the middle of the build plate, the bed shape configuration should be altered to put the origin in the center of the build plate, so 225/2=112.5 for X and 145/2=72.5 for Y.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: slic3r
--- |
thread-5395 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5395 | Is a dual extruder a reasonable choice for all-purpose printing | 2018-02-04T03:42:27.450 | # Question
Title: Is a dual extruder a reasonable choice for all-purpose printing
I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got a LulzBot Taz 6 printer.
I'm interested in doing dual extrusion printing (especially with dissolvable supports), but I'm also interested in doing single extrusion prints. In particular, I would like to experiment with printing flexible filament.
The LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head says that it can handle all the filament types that I am interested in.
Here is the question: can I use a dual extruder (in particular, the LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head) for general purpose printing (read single extrusion) or do I need to use a single extrusion head for single extrusion print jobs.
If you can use a dual for single use, why buy single extruders (I've been looking at LulzBot TAZ Aerostruder Tool Head for flexy prints) if you can get the same performance out of a dual head?
If you should use a single extruder for non-dual prints, please explain the shortcomings of using a dual print head for general purpose use.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Not an expert by any means but I can’t see any reason you couldn’t use one half of a dual extruder. The benefits of not using one though would be decreased extruder weight. Especially given that this is a direct drive so there will be two stepper motors I believe. Reduced weight means faster print times and a reduction in certain print artifacts such as ringing etc.
Short answer, if your only ever going to need one extruder probably avoid a dual but if you want the flexibility this should work when a single extruder is required.
# Answer
> 3 votes
This may be too late to help, but I wanted to describe my own experience with the Lulzbot Taz Dual Extruder v3. It was...not good.
In terms of your question, I spent a fair amount of time trying to do exactly this. It is possible, but there are some major caveats:
* If you are not printing with both extruders, you need to leave the one not in use unloaded. The reason for this is that, at least with PLA, the extruder not in use will get hot enough to drip.
* The Cura-Lulzbot software, at least when I used it last year, doesn't deal well with this. It tends to default to printing with both extruders, and it made slicing much more complicated than it was with a single extruder.
As such, I personally gave up and swapped my old single extruder back in.
This isn't meant to contradict the other answer. In theory it should be workable. But in practice, with the device you mention, it's not.
---
Tags: dual-nozzle, lulzbot
--- |
thread-11283 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11283 | How to wire P.I.N.D.A. v2 to an SKR V1.3 board? | 2019-11-03T00:12:11.557 | # Question
Title: How to wire P.I.N.D.A. v2 to an SKR V1.3 board?
I bought a BigTreeTech SKR v1.3 main board and a P.I.N.D.A v2 for my P3Steel MGN. Does anyone know to wire them together and which part in Marlin 2 do I need to change?
# Answer
# TL;DR
To answer your question how *(by assuming you have a 4 pins PINDA v2 sensor)* to connect the sensor to your board, you have 2 options:
1. Do not connect the white wire and treat the sensor as you would use a normal endstop switch (blue is ground, brown is +5 V, black is signal),
2. Connect the 4 wires (use a splitter cable to split out into a 3 and 1 pin connector, see image below), use the additional pin to read the thermistor value through a free analogue pin, this requires you to do a lot of code changes if you are using a different firmware than the original Prusa firmware.
---
The PINDA v2 auto bed leveling sensor has an additional wire, usually these bed leveling sensors only have 3 wires (power, ground and signal). The PINDA v2 probe has an additional wire that is connected to a thermistor. This thermistor reading is used by Prusa to compensate the trigger distance with temperature variation.
Wiring the fourth pin would require to reverse engineer the logic behind the temperature compensation if you aren't using the firmware of Prusa (e.g. when you are using Marlin firmware; this is not very simple!). Do note this is something engineered by Prusa printing engineers and implemented in their custom fork of Marlin firmware.
E.g. the compensation is calculated in Marlin\_main.cpp by function `temp_compensation_pinda_thermistor_offset`. This function is called to return the offset based on the read temperature (actual calculation is done in `temp_comp_interpolation(temperature_pinda)`):
```
#ifdef PINDA_THERMISTOR
offset_z = temp_compensation_pinda_thermistor_offset(current_temperature_pinda);
#endif //PINDA_THERMISTOR
```
It is perfectly fine to not connect the white wire, this is the signal needed to read out the thermistor value used for the temperature compensation. This will disable the compensation feature and will revert the sensor to a normal inductive sensor.
> 7 votes
---
Tags: firmware, wiring, skr-v1.3, inductive-sensor, bigtreetech
--- |
thread-11288 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11288 | Would PC be considered food-safe in this setup? | 2019-11-04T14:32:13.430 | # Question
Title: Would PC be considered food-safe in this setup?
I have one 3D printer with Makerbot mk10 extruder and I would like to print my custom cup for tea or coffee from PC.
Other than that, I came across idea that FDM printer will always leave small holes on a surface, so they will be a perfect place for bacteria and make them hard to clean for dishwasher.
As far as I know, we have several techniques of polishing, like acetone vapor bath for ABS, however, I haven’t heard about something like that for PC and not sure if it's food-safe.
# Answer
> 5 votes
I also print coffee mugs. I have used ABS for a long time, and, given the statements here and elsewhere about bacterial growth sites, have been attaching my life to a thread. That's fine for me, but I don't make mugs for anyone else.
There are three areas of concern I've found so far:
1. The plastic may be toxic,
2. The machine itself, especially the nozzle, my deposit bits of lead (Pb) into the object, and
3. The small gaps may harbor pathogenic bacteria.
The toxicity of the plastic can be addressed by researching the FDA website. ABS is generally safe, although additives could be questionable. Also, for some reason the FDA lists ABS as safe, but not for use with alcohol -- so much for beer steins. Since the actual MSDS for hobbyist filaments can be hard to get, I'm considering using a less controversial plastic. PETG isn't good enough -- it softens at the temperature of boiling water (I know, I've tried). My next attempt at non-ABS will be Poly Carbonate. I have a spool queued up, but it is as yet untried.
The nozzle can be replaced with a stainless steel nozzle, which does not contain lead. Perhaps because they aren't heated, no one seems concerned about brass feed gears in the extruder.
The layer gaps might be addressable by acetone smoothing. I haven't had great results smoothing mugs. The first problem is that after smoothing a lot of acetone remains in the ABS. Even after a couple of weeks, when hot water is poured into the mug the acetone in the plastic vaporizes and creates bubbles in the surface, which completely defeats the purpose. I've also seen more long-term age-related cracking in vapor-treated ABS. This could also be due to gradually losing acetone and the surface shrinking. If one were to use acetone smoothing, I would suggest post-conditioning the mug in a heated, partial vacuum chamber to encourage the acetone to escape.
The method I intend to try to seal the inside of the cup is to use a food-grade two-part epoxy. I haven't done it yet, so I don't know how it will work.
---
Tags: extruder, post-processing, safety, filament-choice, food
--- |
thread-11290 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11290 | What is the purpose behind a glass nozzle? | 2019-11-04T14:46:33.100 | # Question
Title: What is the purpose behind a glass nozzle?
So while doing some research I stumbled upon a wiki page on reprap from a few years back where the user was creating a glass nozzle to replace the brass and PTFE assembly.
Does anyone know the theory behind this? Glass is a great insulator so I could see how that would be beneficial for the heat break part but I can't see how it is appropriate for the nozzle as this is normally brass which is a good conductor.
Surely the glass takes much more energy to heat up?
On a side note I've seen similar projects using ceramic instead.
# Answer
First off, this is not a glass nozzle, it is a whole hotend design. A super simplistic one.
Glass is, like ceramics, not a good thermal conductor but has a quite good thermal resistance - it only melts at about 1600 °C, which means you will never have to fight melting or warping of the filament path itself at all - the heater copper wire will melt at about 1084 °C, so way before the glass, and most plastics that are printable start to decompose at less than 400°C.
Construction-wise, this design has some benefits:
* Due to the design and material properties, this hotend doesn't need cooling fins and a "coldend" is not needed at all.
* The whole hotend being one solid piece makes it pretty much a "plug and play" item and prevents leaks.
* Glass is extremely abrasive resistant. This means a glass nozzle could be used for stuff like carbon fiber filament very long.
* Glass can be molten, repaired and modified with fairly simple equipment, e.g. a burner and some skill.
* Glass could be easily cleaned up to medical and food-grade machine ratings. The simplicity of the hotend assembly could make it autoclavable as a whole piece.
It has some downsides though:
* Glass is brittle and does not take lateral forces and sharp impacts kindly. In other words: Handle with extreme care.
* Due to the glass being an insulator, the inside of the hotend will have a lower temperature than the outside.
+ A fairly thin-walled meltzone could mitigate this problem to some degree at the downside of making it even more prone to breaking
+ The insulating behavior means, that the meltzone has to directly feed into the nozzle with as little unheated area as possible to prevent the molten plastic from solidifying inside the nozzle again.
* The skill needed to create a properly sized nozzle from glass is tremendous.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Ceramic I can understand - very strong, great thermal range capability. Glass not so much - you'd need some seriously careful annealing at least.
In either case the material is much harder than brass, or even steel, so you could presumably use tougher tools to unclog, etc. as needed. If you're using materials loaded with wood or metallic particles, the glass/ceramic tip will be less likely to degrade than brass.
BTW, glass being a thermal insulator means it may take *longer* to heat up, but the *energy* required is probably less . The specific heat of glass is on the order of .84 J/gm-K . Compare with brass at 0.38 , but keep in mind the rate at which brass will shed heat into the air vs. glass. In either case the energy is tiny compared with the thermal mass of the hotend assembly.
> 5 votes
# Answer
The glass nozzle might be beneficial with abrasive filaments with metal particles that would wear down the brass. As glass can be reasonably easily shaped into a nozzle with standard DIY-tools it might be an interesting project.
A commercial nozzle for filaments with extreme abrasive properties is the Olsson Ruby nozzle. These are designed to hold an actual ruby in it, though ruby is probably not feasible for a DIY-nozzle.
> 4 votes
# Answer
The glass nozzle was an attempt to be able to see the plastic filament melting and to see what is happening during retraction. I also though to use a glass nozzle to heat the plastic to just under melting point then use a LED laser (10 Watts thereabout) to heat just the tip of the plastic through the nozzle to bring it to the final temp where it would melt. Turns out it is unneeded, and lasers waste a lot of energy as heat.
> 2 votes
# Answer
One shortcoming would be that when it comes back to lay down a new line next to an existing line, I would think that it would need to be able to melt the previously printed plastic, especially any bumps and strings.
High thermal conductivity for good heat flow seems important.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: nozzle
--- |
thread-11295 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11295 | Some steppers only rotate one way on RAMPS 1.4 | 2019-11-05T02:15:59.070 | # Question
Title: Some steppers only rotate one way on RAMPS 1.4
I have a RAMPS 1.4 tester code for Arduino MEGA, only need stepper motors and drivers connected. The code in a working setup moves steppers in both directions but in my setup does something wrong:
* Extruder 0 , Axis X/Y only moves in 1 direction all time.
* Extruder 1 , Axis Z works fine in both direction
I changed stepper drivers but always Extruder 0, Axis X/Y were moving in same direction all time.Tried 2 differents RAMPS 1.4 shields with same results in tester code, Sprinter or Marlin.
I have the code if someone wants, it works fine in other setups.
What could be the problem?
# Answer
> 1 votes
As towe said, it could be a dir pin ( can be checked by metering the dir connection), but in my experience this behavior has usually been a limit switch issue (as 0scar pointed out). Try seeing if you have a limit switch setting somewhere that expects normally closed (assuming no limit switches are connected).
There is also another possibility that has to do with microstepping on some drivers, but i'm guessing you are going for a rudimentary no microstepping test right now (and have configured jumpers appropriately).
---
Tags: marlin, arduino, ramps
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thread-6572 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6572 | Will a glass bed warp as it is heated? | 2018-08-06T20:53:31.277 | # Question
Title: Will a glass bed warp as it is heated?
I purchased a glass bed to use with my still-in-transit Ender 3. Since the bed came in before the printer, I pulled it out and used a flat edge ruler to see how flat the glass surface is.
It appears the glass is slightly "dished" in the center from one side and "raised" in the center on the other side. I am wondering if this is a sign of a defective glass, or if it is likely that the glass may change shape slightly as it is heated?
If it does change shape, should it be put with the dish side up or down?
Logic would say that if it does change shape, the bottom would probably get hotter since it is against the heater while the top is slightly cooler, so in theory the bottom may expand more "pulling" the center down?
I guess the bottom line is, should I send the glass back as defective or wait until the printer arrives and see what happens when I heat it up?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Glass will not change its shape you can watch this interesting video: YouTube - Fix Your Bowed Glass Build Surface - CR-10 3D Printer.
Or simply change your glass.
# Answer
> 8 votes
### TL;DR
Yes, glass warps when hot. Use a physical touch sensor and calibrate it out, or swap glass if it's "bad".
---
The further you go into mechanical studies like 3d printing, mills, and lathes, you will find out that nothing is perfectly flat. Everything has a tolerance to it, whether the manufacturer provided it or not. Better manufacturers provide the tolerance data.
As you have or will find out, *yes*, glass does warp when heated. That is because you are not warming the glass evenly. When hot and cold spots form in glass, the glass tends to warp up or down, depending how the heat travels.
It's common for 0.01 mm warp when a glass bed is brought to printing temps (60-100 °C). If one has a larger format bed, like my Vulcanus at 500x500, 0.03 mm changes are possible.
One can remediate this warping, as it usually appears in the same place during the heat cycle. So if you calibrate **after the bed is heated**, you should reduce said errors. Another more comprehensive way to fix this, is with a physical touch sensor and create a grid map of the bed geometry.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes, glass will warp. Think about it this way: the edges cannot be as hot as the centre if you use uniform heating, because they lose heat more quickly.
If the edges are colder, they are also shorter than the hotter centre, which expands more.
If the centre is longer than the edges, it will bend to accommodate the extra length.
You can solve it by placing extra heating along the edges. Once you heat the edges more than the centre, the edges will pull apart the centre, which will result in a flat centre. However, the edges will deform as well, you need just a bit of stretch of the centre, but not so much that it pulls the edges back.
---
Tags: heated-bed, bed-leveling, glass-bed
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thread-5535 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5535 | Proper way to power down a FDM printer | 2018-02-23T04:57:20.143 | # Question
Title: Proper way to power down a FDM printer
I just got my first 3D printer today, QIDI X-ONE\[2\], and so far so good with the setup and getting my 1<sup>st</sup> print. I wanted to power off the printer, but I don't see any instructions on how to properly power off the machine.
Does anyone know how long I should wait, or what the minimum temperature would be safe to power down the machine?
# Answer
> 5 votes
\[TL:DR\] - **If you can comfortably hold the nozzle with your fingers, you are good to go**
---
In order to understand how long one should wait, it is important to understand *why* one has to wait.
All modern consumer-grade FDM printers have their printing head made of two assemblies: the *cold end*, where the extruder stepper motor is located and the filament must be in solid state, and the *hot end*, where the filament is actually melted and pushed through the nozzle.
Between the two there is a thin-walled length of pipe called *heat break*, whose purpose is to keep the two separate and make difficult for heat to reach the cold end by *conduction*.
However, the heat break is not "watertight", and heat also transmits via the convecting motion of air and IR radiation, so the cold end is actively cooled (most commonly with a fan).
**The reason you want to wait before switching off the printer is that you want to keep that fan spinning *until there is no chance for the heat to creep up and melt the filament* in the cold end**.
If the filament were to melt in the cold end, the extruder would clog and you would probably need to disassemble it.
**In order to make sure the cooling happens, you have to make sure that your G-code tells the printer to stop heating the nozzle**, after the print is done.
All slicers that I know of have a specific configuration setting called "end G-code" or something similar where you can manually insert the code you want to execute at the end of each print. The part relevant to your question could look like this:
```
M104 S0 ; turn off heating block
```
If you want to get fancy and your hardware has a beeper you may also try:
```
M109 S60 ; wait for nozzle temp to drop to 60 °C
M300 S300 P1000 ; make a beep sound
```
Typically "end G-code" has other stuff too (move the head out of the way, switch off the heated bed, disable the idle hold of the steppers...)
Just make sure to move the nozzle away from the printer as your first action: you don't want the hot nozzle to linger idle above the print and ruin its top layer!
# Answer
> 5 votes
According to the `M109` G-code the documentation, the printer will wait to reach temperature given with `S` only when heating. With `R`, the printer will wait also when cooling down.
So if the answer of mac fails to work, try:
```
M109 R60 ; wait for nozzle temp to drop to 60 °C
```
---
Tags: cooling, heat-management
--- |
thread-11314 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11314 | How to switch firmware from 12 V heated bed to 110 V SSR heated bed? | 2019-11-07T23:35:28.320 | # Question
Title: How to switch firmware from 12 V heated bed to 110 V SSR heated bed?
According to the instructions I have read, you use the same output on the printers mainboard to control a 110 V heated bed with a solid state relay, as you do to power the 12/24 V heated bed that comes with the printer.
The relay's datasheet states that its max input current is 25 mA, obviously a 12/24 V heated bed would draw a lot more than that.
How does Marlin know that the heated bed pins are controlling a relay now instead of a bed directly, and therefore should limit their current output?
In other words: I am worried that if I just drop in the relay, it will burn up since the board still thinks it needs to supply high current to the bed.
# Answer
> How does Marlin know that the heated bed pins are controlling a relay now instead of a bed directly, and therefore should limit their current output?
Marlin does not (need to) know this. Simply put, all Marlin does is switch on/off the *voltage* at the heated bed output. The amount of current that will flow is a function of the voltage and the device connected. If you connect a heated bed to a 12 V voltage, a high current will flow. If you connect your relay to 12 V, only a small current will flow.
> In other words- I am worried that if I just drop in the relay, it will burn up since the board still thinks it needs to supply high current to the bed.
You do not need to worry about this. Your question is essentially equivalent to this: "*if I replace my 100W incandescent lightbulb with a 1W LED one, do I need to replace the light switch in the wall?*" The switch (i.e., your printer board/Marlin) does not care what load is connected to it, so long as it does not exceed the *maximum* rated current.
> 1 votes
# Answer
There are two current parameters which you are looking at in your instructions for the solid state relay. The first one (the 25mA) is for the *control* circuit. This is how much amperage the device itself will draw when in operation. The second is for the *load* circuit. This is the max amperage which can pass through the device.
Your instruction sheet shows the device having the ability to work at 10A, 15A, 20A, 25A, or 40A. These are different ratings for the same style of device. When you purchase the device, you'd need to specify which amperage rating you'd want your device to be at. They use the same spec sheet for all five flavors, because they are basically the same thing with the one exception, which is the amp rating.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, wiring
--- |
thread-11316 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11316 | What causes leaking between the heat break and the heat block? | 2019-11-08T04:47:34.770 | # Question
Title: What causes leaking between the heat break and the heat block?
During long prints, my heat block becomes covered in whatever material I am printing. The plastic leaks from the junction between the heat break and the heat block, and runs down towards the nozzle.
I frequently have problems with grinding of filament by the Bowden extruder. However, on the E3D Kraken with a Volcano block, if I use water cooling and a fan positioned just above the heat block, there is no grinding, and everything comes out fine. But the heat block grows a beard of plastic regardless if there is a fan over the heat break or not.
I check my prints once every 2 hours and can wipe the heat block beard, but for overnight prints this isn't possible, so sometimes my prints will have random blobs from when the plastic leaks onto the print.
I have tried multiple nozzles and filaments! I print at only 60 mm/s. *Does the volcano block need faster print speeds to prevent this from happening?*
I cant really figure out the root of the issue. If the rest of the print comes out fine, then why is there an issue?
# Answer
A video I recently viewed (YouTube link) regarding installing a hot end assembly references the proper sequence of parts placement. Starting with the nozzle, thread it into the heater block until it is proud of the surface by a half of a millimeter, perhaps slightly more. The heat break is then threaded into the heater block until it contacts the nozzle. If not already in place, attach the heat sink.
The next step is to bring the assembly up to maximum temperature and re-tighten the nozzle assembly, obviously using great care due to the high temp.
The video specified that performing this sequence incorrectly would result in leakage from the assembly, which describes your troubles.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: hotend, e3d-kraken
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thread-11323 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11323 | Thermal runaway on extruder hotend | 2019-11-09T09:46:46.843 | # Question
Title: Thermal runaway on extruder hotend
I am getting thermal runaway even after PID autotunning many times. I tried 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 cycles and after reuploading FW onto the printer but I still get the error...
I've built a copy of Prusa's i3 mk2 by following Building the cheapest possible Prusa i3 MK2.
I have tried autotune with the cooling fan off, 50 %, and 100 %, but nothing changes.
The printer is in a closed cabinet room.
I was just watching it printing + temperature graph, and after ~20-30 minutes it starts jumping from 199.3-5 to 200.6-9... And that causes, after a few minutes, thermal runaway. The fan was on for 15 minutes or more.
Any help?
# Answer
If a temperature of (rounded) 201 °C is triggering TRP, then one of three things is the culprit:
* The TRP Hysteresis is awfully trigger happy. See What is Thermal Runaway Protection?
* Your Heater cartridge is not properly mounted and has a bad connection to the heater block and upon heating and *expecting* a much higher temperature but not measuring the associated increase it triggers TRP as it thinks "DANG! My thermosensor or heater cartridge must have fallen out of the heater block!"
* Your Thermosensor has occasionally erroneous readings that are interpreted as temperatures way over or under 200 °C and trigger TRP.
To rule out the problems, do the following:
* Check the mounting of the thermosensor and heater cartridge. Tighten if needed. The thermosensor should have no cracks (glass) or deformation (metal cylinder)!.
* Check resistance and wiring of the heater cartridge (it should have some depending on the type) and thermosensor (If you use a thermocouple sensor, you might need to flip wiring).
* Use a terminal with a graphic interface and look at the temperature output line as you heat up and print. If it has spikes or sudden valleys, you get occasionally erroneous readings and should go back to recheck your wiring or replace the thermosensor.
* Only after making sure the physical side is ok, look at the TRP code and Thermal Settings in configuration\_adv.h. Only alter these if you know what you are doing, as you do so **at your own risk** \- the settings in the distribution are well proven to be safe, while alterations might turn TRP effectively off and turn your machine into a fire hazard. Which factors to increase carefully is detailed in this answer.
> 5 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, diy-3d-printer, troubleshooting
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thread-11328 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11328 | Delete only invisible parts of faces | 2019-11-10T02:18:01.753 | # Question
Title: Delete only invisible parts of faces
I have an STL made out of triangular faces that intersect themselves to create very complicated patterns. It also has a very messy internal structure. I'd like to remove the parts of the faces that are invisible from outside, whilst still maintaining the precise geometry of the model.
Any free software I can use is fine by me.
I tried using the Hollow Tool in Meshmixer, but that just deleted half of everything, for some reason. I also tried doing a Uniform Mesh Resampling in Meshlab, but that just created a wrinkly, disconnected mess. Disabling infill in Cura seems to do nothing.
For reference, the model looks like this.
# Answer
As long as the STL creates a closed, manifold, watertight body, a good slicer will just slice it. Ultimaker Cura has the option to `Union intersecting shells`, which lets it take non-manifold parts of a shell and union them to the body in such a way that it creates a closed body. More simplification and fixing the problem in a slicer usually is not needed. If there is still some area where internal geometry is created, it can help to create an overlapping internal structure deliberately, as Easy way to refine a 3D-model for 3D printing by removing internal geometry explains.
Let's look at some example: The STL game export of a pauldron is made from the base body (one shell) and the rivets (which are another shell inside the STL). If Union Intersecting Shells is active, the rivets are sliced and printed as part of the pauldron. If Union Intersecting Shells is not active, the rivets are found to be non-sliceable and ignored.
Infill is meant to support the upper structures in print.
If it is mandatory to join the item into one shell, the STL format isn't the best to go through.
If the pattern is produced by a program, that is able to generate and export STEP files, these could be used by CAD software such as Fusion360 which then would interpret the generated body in such a way that it can be unioned easily, getting rid of internal geometry.
If the program generating the pattern is working with a vertex cloud such as blender, it should be possible to cut the long outer lines into several pieces and placing the vertices on the intersection of lines. These vertices could then be merged and any internal edges (and faces) removed. This can be a tedious process.
> 3 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, stl
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thread-11332 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11332 | What are the variables for PID control? How to use M301? How to use this command to switch from PID to bang-bang? | 2019-11-10T16:01:22.870 | # Question
Title: What are the variables for PID control? How to use M301? How to use this command to switch from PID to bang-bang?
I'd like to have the 12V PID output of an old Printrboard hotend control a relay that attaches to a 120V crockpot for something I'm making. I have everything working fine using a relay, but because the hotend heater is using PID control, the relay clicks about 3 times per second each time it needs to heat up the crockpot.
Not only is this sound annoying, but it will likely reduce the life of the relay significantly. I need the crockpot temperature controlled, so the programmatic thermistor control on an old 3D printer board is a huge help, and probably cheaper than the alternatives. Especially since this board has an SD slot built in and can run any code on power-up. In "bang-bang" control, there would be less clicking as the crockpot heats up, and the relay wouldn't be damaged.
I can't update the firmware on my board to use a different pin because it is a really old Printrbot board. All the required software is almost 5 years old and is really difficult to find. Fortunately the Printrboard does support `M301`. So, I should be able to use this command to switch from PID control to bang-bang.
In Marlin's documentation, it describes a command called M301, along with a lot of variables for using this command. The problem is, I don't know what any of these variables mean.
```
M301 [C<value>] [D<value>] [E<index>] [I<value>] [L<value>] [P<value>]
```
```
[C<value>]
C term (requires PID_EXTRUSION_SCALING)
[D<value>]
Derivative value
[E<index>]
Extruder index to set. Default 0.
[I<value>]
Integral value
[L<value>]
Extrusion scaling queue length (requires PID_EXTRUSION_SCALING)
[P<value>]
Proportional value
```
About the only thing I know for sure is that the extruder index is 0.
What command would I enter to make this a bang-bang PID controller, so that I don't damage my relay long-term?
# Answer
> 4 votes
> What command would I enter to make this a bang-bang PID controller
There's no such thing as a "bang-bang PID controller". "bang bang" is mutually exclusive of PID. The M301 command is only good for fine-tuning the parameters of the PID controller, but it won't let you switch to bang bang. Unfortunately, you must update the firmware if you wish to use bang bang.
You could try setting all values to 0, except P, which you set to an as high value as possible. This will cause the output to be fully on when the temperature is lower than the setpoint, and fully off when higher than the setpoint. However, this can still cause rapid clicking of the relay when the temperature is hovering around the setpoint. Bang bang has some hysteresis built-in (i.e., there is a margin around the setpoint in which the relay will never be toggled); there's no way to emulate this with PID.
---
Tags: marlin, heat-management
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thread-10533 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10533 | Slicing directly from non-mesh data? | 2019-07-09T08:46:12.143 | # Question
Title: Slicing directly from non-mesh data?
This is a bit of a weird question, and I imagine the answer might simply be "no." But here goes anyway:
I'm writing some code that generates shapes for 3D printing via "implicit surfaces," i.e. a mathematical function f(x,y,z) that is positive inside the shape and negative outside it. This works pretty well for designing the kind of shapes I want to print, but the problem is, turning the implicit surface into a good mesh is *hard* \- there are some libraries that can do it, but they're kind of finnicky and you have to play with parameters a lot to get it to work well.
But I was thinking: the only reason I need a mesh in the first place is to send it to a slicer, which will ultimately throw away the mesh and turn it into gcode instead. My plan was to do
`implicit function --> STL file --> gcode`
but I'm wondering if there are any slicers that will let me skip the intermediate step and let me just do
`implicit function --> gcode`
instead. That is, my code would supply a 3D grid of voxels, containing the value of the function at each 3D point, and the slicer would create the gcode from that instead of from an STL file.
It seems that Shapeways have a nice and simple format called SVX that is exactly this, but as far as I can tell, this is only supported by Shapeways and not by any FDM slicing software.
Another option would be for my code to supply a sequence of 2D polygons, one for each layer of the printed model, so the sequence would be
`implicit function --> big list of slices --> gcode`
This would be both easier and more accurate than first converting it into a mesh, and I assume the slicer must generate this kind of representation anyway, before it calculates the path for the print head to take.
I suppose the question is, is there an existing CAD format that supports either of these options, that is also supported by existing slicer software? If so then I can just write my code to output in that format and it should just work.
# Answer
> 2 votes
## No, not natively
To the current point, all slicers in frequent use do use some kind of 3D model with explicit surfaces to cut up into slices and then solve the path functions to create the G-code. The model can be in STL or OBJ or some other format, depending on the slicer, but at this point (November 2019), no slicing program I know about supports direct math as input.
## Probably make it yourself?
However, you have a way to design the models by solving a mathematical formula. You could probably use the program that solves the formulae to also act as a slicer of some sorts.
One software that might form a base could be Cura, which allows writing plugins, so there might be a way to have Cura automatically solve the surface formula and then plug that into the slicing without storing the intermediate data as an STL.
Slic3r might also work as a base since the whole source code is open. It would be a similar endeavor as modifying Cura.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is a partial answer that I might make into a full answer if I follow it up later. (I'm posting in case someone else has the same question, in which case this might be helpful despite being incomplete.)
It seems that the 3mf format has a slice extension that does pretty much what I want - it allows the model to be specified as a series of polygons representing the slices, instead of a 3D mesh. So in principle I could simply output a 3mf file containing slice data, and load it into any slicer that supports this extension.
Unfortunately, this would mean learning what seems to be a rather complicated XML based file format, and I'm unsure which slicers currently support the slice extension. This seems to be quite a recent thing, and it might be a case of waiting until better support is available, in terms of Python libraries to write 3mf files as well as slicer support. (There are Python bindings for lib3mf, but their documentation currently consists of a single word, "TODO".)
There is also a requirement in the spec that any 3mf file containing slice data must also contain a mesh representation of the object. This is annoying because the whole point of this idea is to avoid generating a mesh. I suppose I could just output a bounding box or something instead.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is my second self-answer. I'm posting it separately because it's a different technique. This one should work today, without any modification to the slicer.
I got a helpful hint from Cura developer BagelOrb in the Cura issue tracker:
> Note that generating the mesh doesn't need to be as difficult as you might think. You don't need to connect the layers together, you only need to give your slices a height, so that Cura will slice each layer exactly where you want.
>
> Just generate the 2D polygons and then extrude each line segment into two perfectly vertical triangles with the same height as your intended layer height - and BAM! you got what you want.
This is similar to a suggestion @towe made in the comments on this question, but the cool thing is you don't need to bother rendering the and bottom surface of each slice, because the slicer will just ignore them anyway. This is because, in BagelOrb's words,
> The first thing CuraEngine does is slice the 3D model into polygons and the rest of the processing only uses these polygons. The 3D model is only used to calculate the areas of each layer and all other operations are operations on polygons.
>
> Your mesh doesn't need to be manifold; only each slice needs to be a closed polygon.
>
> The slicing stage within CuraEngine is a 2 step process:
>
> * for each triangle generate the line segments for each layer with which it intersects
> * for each layer stich all line segments together into polygons
>
> Your model can look like this:
This is great because the top and bottom surfaces are very tricky to do correctly. It can be done in OpenSCAD using `linear_extrude`, but it turns out to be extremely time-consuming to `union` all the layers together. This way my code can just throw all the triangles into an STL file and it will slice correctly without any issue.
The other useful information in that thread is that Cura will slice the model in the middle of each layer. So that's where I should slice my own implicit surface model for maximum accuracy.
I did a quick proof of concept and it seems to work so far. I manually created an ASCII STL file containing the sides of a 1cm cube with no top or bottom surface. In "prepare" mode, Cura sees it as the hollow model that it is:
But when slicing it ignores the missing faces and adds top and bottom layers and infill, as expected:
I'll probably edit this answer again once I have the whole thing up and running.
---
Tags: slicing, software
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thread-11331 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11331 | Reason behind geometry of heater blocks? | 2019-11-10T15:10:10.933 | # Question
Title: Reason behind geometry of heater blocks?
I understand the principle of why a heater block is used. Helping to reduce temperature variation as the filament is extruded using the heat capacity of the block.
But I’m wondering why it takes the form it does? I imagine it is cuboid in shape just for convenience as it’s easy to machine?
From a surface area to volume ratio a cuboid appears to be one of the worst shapes to use.
Note: I am currently doing a project which requires me to increase the tool clearance of the nozzle of a 3D printer. Hence why I am exploring alternative print head configurations and heater block design trying to minimise the profile of the print head as much as possible.
# Answer
A heater block has its shape designed simply by the necessity of the needs and the ease to manufacture them. Functionally, a heater block serves as:
* a structural component holding the following components in a well-known position to one another:
+ heatbreak
+ nozzle
+ heater cartridge
+ thermosensor
* a transmission medium of heat energy from the heater cartridge to the thermosensor and filament path.
+ this dictates the use of high thermal conductive metals
* a thermal energy storage to equalize the heating pattern of the heater cartridge.
While this dictates the *internal* geometry of the block, it does not say anything about the *external* geometry. This is chosen entirely because of manufacturing, which strongly prefers square items in a vise with stop positions to allow repeatable machining.
While other heater designs are existant, for example wrapping a heater wire around the meltzone, the use of a machined structural element that houses bought components saves a lot of time in assembly Quality Control and subsequent repairs, as each component (heater, thermosensor, block) can be rejected or replaced on its own. This makes the machine all in all more serviceable.
> 2 votes
# Answer
No the heater block does not need to be cuboid.
(from http://hot-end.com/)
This heater block from Maxiwatt is mostly cylindrical. My self and another college use them on our machines and I can say from experience that they heat up faster.
In the early days of 3D printing people were even making their own "heat blocks"
In the video link, the person is describing how to wrap nichrome wire around a brass wood insert to create a heat block.
The reason for it being square: It's easy to hold and thus cheap to make.
> 2 votes
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Tags: hotend
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thread-11322 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11322 | What hairspray brands are known to contain PVA / PolyVinylpyrrolidone | 2019-11-08T18:07:52.600 | # Question
Title: What hairspray brands are known to contain PVA / PolyVinylpyrrolidone
It's common to use hairspray, especially AquaNet, as a bed adhesive. My understanding is this works because the spray includes a chemical called polyvinylpyrrolidone, or PVA.
What other brands of hairspray are known to contain this chemical in sufficient concentrations to work as an effective adhesive in 3D printing applications?
# Answer
> 2 votes
From an MSDS for AquaNet hairspray:
> Water (Aqua), Dimethyl Ether, SD Alcohol 40-B (Alcohol Denat.), **VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer**, Acrylates Copolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Sodium Benzoate, Cyclohexylamine, Triethyl Citrate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sodium PCA, Masking Fragrance (Parfum)
The MSDS doesn't mention polyvinylpyrrolidone.
I suspect that the "PVA" here is the VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer. A little googling indicates that this is a common ingredient of hair sprays, and works by forming a thin coating over hair to prevent it from adsorbing moisture.
I stumbled upon three types of Loreal(R) hairspray that have these ingredients. It seems likely that there are more.
Disclosure: I use AquaNet on an aluminum bed as a PLA bonding agent, and on my Prusa PEI covered bed as a PET-G release agent.
---
Tags: adhesion
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thread-11338 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11338 | Flashing a bootloader on Ender 3 without Arduino | 2019-11-11T09:22:33.147 | # Question
Title: Flashing a bootloader on Ender 3 without Arduino
I just order myself an Ender 3 Pro which will come by the end of the week. Before it arrives I want to be ready to flash a bootloader onto it.
I was wondering what other options there are to flashing except using an Arduino?
I have a bunch of ESP8266/ESP32 and a USB to TTL. Would it be possible to use these somehow instead of an Arduino to flash a bootloader to the Ender 3? Or should I just go buy an Arduino?
# Answer
> 5 votes
What you need to is called a ICSP or ISP: in-circuit serial programmer or in-system programmer, which excludes the USB to TTL device you own.
I've never used an ESP8266 as ICSP but it seems there are some resources out there reporting it is possible. If you want to go the easiest way probably you want to buy an Arduino and follow the tons of tutorials out there, if you are looking to save some money then you might get around buying an ICSP like the very well known USBASP (just Google for that).
# Answer
> 4 votes
You can do AVR programming using USB-TTL adapters. This relies on bit-banging, i.e. emulating the programming protocol by using the serial control lines as general purpose IO.
But this has a few caveats:
* USB-TTL adapters limit the speed of control line changes. So the programming will be very slow, taking several minutes.
* You need to have the RTS, DTR and CTS lines available on the USB-TTL adapter. Many of the cheap adapters do not have these signals available on pins, though you could solder to the chip directly.
If those two are in order, go ahead and install avrdude, take one of the serial port bitbang (`serbb` driver) example files and configure it with information on which serial adapter pins you've connected to the AVR chip. Then give `-i 1000` or similar delay value to `avrdude` to slow it down enough to work over the USB interface.
There is a blog post about doing it with PL2303 based adapter, but the technique should work on other USB-TTL adapters also.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, firmware
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thread-11341 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11341 | Ender 3 X-axis values are not correct | 2019-11-11T07:14:42.987 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 X-axis values are not correct
So I just got the Ender 3 and have been trying to print out a part. However, I noticed the printer is trying to print the part, which should be centered in the bed, on the left side.
I performed the auto home, leveling procedures, prior to execution, but it still wants to print it on the left side.
I checked the values it thinks it has for X, but they are about 60 mm to high (i.e. from the control/move axis menu, I move it towards the zero position and when it touches the switch, it still thinks its around 65-70 mm in the positive direction).
I have tried the good old power cycle, but each time it seems to get worse printing closer and closer to the edge. I am sure that I must have fudged something up. Anyone know how to fix the mismatched position?
Thanks for any advice!
# Answer
So the issues with the digital display values, was caused by the X-axis binding up and not advancing. I had to move the axis via the control panel in the positive direction and noticed once it got about half-way out, it wouldn't advance for like two or more steps.
On the control panel, it said I was 235 mm out from the home position, but in reality I was more around the midway point. When I would move it back to the home position the read-out still displayed that I was offset from the home position in the positive direction.
To fix it I tore it down and reconstructed it (made sure everything was plumb and level), I also flipped the belt in the opposite direction (teeth down, so that the stepper pulley grips the belt teeth).
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, x-axis
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thread-11349 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11349 | Ender 3 X-axis belt orientation | 2019-11-11T23:07:36.620 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 X-axis belt orientation
What is the correct orientation for the X-axis belt?
I first thought to place the smooth side down to match the tensioner bearing, but then changed it to match the motor pulley.
# Answer
Sadly, the Ender-3 assembly instructions were not clear on step 7, what the right direction is (teeth on inner side of the loop):
The Belt has teeth that need to engage the teeth of the hobbed gear on the motor, just like in the preassembled Y-axis. The teeth have to go aim to the "inside" of the loop. This way, the belt will not slip on the motor side and the movements will be repeatable.
> 6 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, x-axis
--- |
thread-11351 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11351 | What is M73 Q17 S43 G-code command? | 2019-11-12T11:31:53.373 | # Question
Title: What is M73 Q17 S43 G-code command?
I know that `M73 P19` means "Set completion progress to 19%", and I suspect that `M73 R42` means "Set remaining time to 42 minutes", but what is `M73 Q17 S43`? I can't find description of such syntax.
The command is seen in `.gcode` files produced by PrusaSlicer.
# Answer
> 4 votes
The `M73` Set/Get build percentage G-code is only defined for a selected few printer firmwares.
As you suspected, next to `M73 P19` (tell the firmware at what completage percentage the print is) the `M73 R42` tells the firmware the left time to completion.
If you look at the description of the `M73` G-code, the following parameters may be used:
* `P`: Percent in normal mode
* `R`: Time remaining in normal mode
* `Q`: Percent in silent mode
* `S`: Time remaining in silent mode
So, running the `Q` and `S` parameters, is similar to the `P` and `R` parameters with the exception for referring to the printer percentage/time when in stealth (quiet) mode.
These modes, normal and stealth, refer to power modes of Prusa printers:
> **Normal vs. Stealth mode**
> MK3 printers offer two print modes. Normal mode is required for the detection of lost steps (shifted layers), while still being quieter than the silent mode on MK2/S. There is also the Stealth mode, which utilizes Trinamic StealthChop technology, making the printer almost inaudible with the print cooling fan being the noisiest part of the printer. However, Stealth mode does not provide lost step detection.
Stealth mode times can be a bit higher than normal mode estimation times. Estimation is done by the slicer. As Prusa maintains this feature, their times are accurate for their printers, but that does not have to be the case for custom printers.
To get the current progress, the `M73` command is called without parameters:
> Use "M73" by itself to get a report of the current print progress.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The tooltip for "Supports remaining times" under `Printer Settings -> General -> Firmware`in PrusaSlicer quotes:
```
Emit M73 P[percent printed] R[remaining time in minutes] at 1 minute intervals
into the G-code to let the firmware show accurate remaining time.
As of now only the Prusa i3 MK3 firmware recognizes M73.
Also the i3 MK3 firmware supports M73 Qxx Sxx for the silent mode.
```
Therefore:
* P = Percentage printed, normal mode
* R = Remaining time, normal mode
* Q = Percentage printed, silent mode
* S = Remaining time, silent mode
---
Tags: marlin, g-code, slic3r, prusa-research
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thread-11356 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11356 | Classifying method of control of 3D printers? | 2019-11-13T01:27:05.270 | # Question
Title: Classifying method of control of 3D printers?
Is there a classification of method of control most (FDM) 3D printers fall under?
From a 1986robotics textbook<sup>ref</sup> I was reading they defined three classes of control:
1) Pick and place
2) Point to point
3) Continuous path
However, both point to point and continuous path control are stated as requiring servo motors.
I know that the majority of 3D printers are actuated with stepper motors as opposed to servo. Does the continuous path classification still apply? Or is there another classification?
ref - *Todd, D.J.(Ed.):Fundamentals of Robot Technology: An Introduction to Industrial Robots, Teleoperators and Robot Vehicles - Kogan Page 1986*
# Answer
> 5 votes
The question is if robots classification terminology the textbook sketches applies to 3D printing?
Servos (closed loop) are used in robots to guarantee position (you don't want to accumulate an error after repetitive movement), most 3D printers use open loop steppers that are instructed on a point to point basis through G-code instructions, implying that the use of servos is not a "requirement" for point to point control.
It **is** a requirement if you want to be absolutely sure that the position is reached. In 3D printing where the loads are generally low, this requirement is frequently dropped. But, there are printers that use servo control.
Note that many CNC machines (operating at much higher loads than a 3D printer) even don't use servo's but (open loop) steppers, these are generally larger and more powerful (more torque).
# Answer
> 1 votes
3D Printers fall under additive manufacturing and then can be classified by the material first. Usually, the material dictates entirely what the design looks like and it would be foolish to not differentiate what you look at by this first. For some materials, there are a couple of subtypes that tell us about which method for fusing the material is used, but usually, there is just one.
* light curing resin
+ projected light
+ Laser
* Paste, gel or air curing resin
+ direct deposit from syringe
* Foil
+ Laser1
* Powder
+ Laser
* Filament (FFF/FDM)
+ direct deposit
Of all these printers, only the FDM/FFF Group has a large diversity in how they are designed on the outer side, with the main 4 designs (and one example) being
* Cantilever (TronXY X1)
* Core-XY (Hypercube)
* Portal (Prusa)
* Delta (Kossel)
Now comes the kicker: Most FDM/FFF Printers do use only stepper motors and use G-Code that is derived from CNC - just like the whole idea of FDM was invented as *reverse CNC*. Only very few use an encoder at all. Marlin, the main firmware used in 3D printers, executes usually *point-to-point* instructions (`G0 X10 Y10 Z0 E5`), but some implementations are able to perform arcs (`G2 E7.85 R5 X-5 Y5`). Usually, printers run in *relative coordinates* (to the last position of the nozzle/tool), but for some operations *absolute coordinates* (mainly start or end codes) are used.
Among the printers that use servos instead of steppers are, to my knowledge, mostly laser-based systems.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Upon further research these defined classes of control (from a robotics perspective) only apply to servo motors.
At the highest level the methods of control being categorised as:
* Servo
* Non-Servo
The three categories I listed in my question are all subsets of the Servo category and rely upon feedback from the servo.
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Tags: stepper, motor, linear-motion
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thread-11361 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11361 | What does the stainless steel plug do in the E3D Kraken cooler block? | 2019-11-13T21:19:10.280 | # Question
Title: What does the stainless steel plug do in the E3D Kraken cooler block?
In the E3D Kraken cooler block, there is a big, 10 mm grub screw, along the side of the cooler block.
I watched the entire Kraken assembly video:
There was no mention of this very thick grub screw. The E3D Kraken assembly wiki page may refer to this part as the "stainless plug".
Does the depth of the screw inside the Kraken heatbreak affect the effectiveness of the water cooling?
Why was it included in the design at all?
I'm asking because water frequently leaks out of this pore for me, ever since I had to repair some damaged tubing. Additionally I often have to use an extra fan when printing at high temperatures. I'm wondering, before I epoxy this grub screw into place, whether the amount it is tightened into the Kraken has some advantages or disadvantages.
The video shows the part already assembled on the Kraken. This is what the part looks like - it is much larger than the screws used to secure heat throats.
# Answer
This stainless steel plug is necessary because of the fabrication of the cooler block. As this is a water cooled block, cold fluid flows in the inlet brass barb, and hot fluid out of the exit brass barb. The manufactured channel between the two is done through the hole that is later plugged by the stainless steel plug.
From the manufacturers website of the stainless steel plugs you can read that a tapered hole and sealant are required to make a tight seal:
> They have a wide range of applications in sealing and require a tapered hole.
and:
> Replacing these plugs on the Kraken should only be completed if you are confident in your ability to achieve an adequate seal. We use Threadlock and a measured torque setting.
Be sure the hole has a taper, if you over-tightened if once it may have worn. Epoxy based glue would be able to be used at the cooler block, temperatures are not expected to be too high, but from the comments below it becomes clear that there are specific sealing products available for sealing the plug other than epoxy.
The depth of the grub screw is not likely to affect the cooling properties (it isn't expected to block one of the brass barbs).
> 3 votes
# Answer
The connecting channel between the two brass barbed hose fittings needs to be drilled out. To open that channel, a hole is drilled into the side to connect the two top holes (which have the brass fittings screwed into them). The hole doesn't need to penetrate both sides, but it must get through one side.
The grub screw seals the hole.
Instead of using epoxy to seal in the screw, you could use the PTFE (Teflon) white plumbing tape. It is specifically designed to seal threads.
If I remember, you can thread it in as tightly as you like. It won't interfere with the water channel.
I have a Kraken, and I looked at how to make another one.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: e3d-kraken
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thread-11366 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11366 | The first screen of Marlin 2.0 is showing some horizontal lines, appearing to be broken | 2019-11-13T22:58:28.357 | # Question
Title: The first screen of Marlin 2.0 is showing some horizontal lines, appearing to be broken
We are using the branch bugfix 2.0 and the first screen of Marlin is showing some horizontal lines, appearing to be broken.
After 3 seconds, the boot screen appears and everything works normally.
We have tried to disable the custom bootscreen:
```
//#define SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN
```
We have tried to disable the Marlin bootscreen:
```
//#define SHOW_BOOTSCREEN
```
We have checked the power supply.
We have wrapped the "flat cable" in aluminum foil and ground everything correctly.
We have deleted the "firmware.bin" and it did not solve the problem.
The first time the firmware is loading the "firmware.bin", those horizontal lines do not appear, but when it is loading the "FIRMWARE.CUR" it does appear.
*What exactly is happening? How do I fix those horizontal lines on boot?*
# Answer
> 3 votes
Something is causing your screen to get signals to display that before your board properly takes it over after 3 seconds. It is an oddly repetitive pattern.
If it is software, you should not see it on a stable stock marlin release with minimal customizations to enable the LCD. Usually nothing else shares pins with the LCD, but please do double check pin assignments.
Beyond software lies a realm of hardware issues:
Issue could be due to bad wiring or wires running in areas where they are picking up noise as the system boots up; LCD ribbons are not particularly noise resistant. I say wiring but it could be anywhere along the circuit, including circuit boards.
There is also some (smaller) chance that your power supply is providing the noise at the initial boot up in which case you may be able to resolve it by adding capacitors to stabilize the DC voltage. Not sure what check you already did of the power supply, but a DC (RMS) reading may not show anything strange on a regular multimeter even if there is a strange AC signal.
---
Tags: firmware, lcd-screen
--- |
thread-10859 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10859 | Top surface scarring even with Z hop | 2019-08-25T13:21:08.343 | # Question
Title: Top surface scarring even with Z hop
When the print is finished, it looks like the extruder is digging into the top layer as it returns to home?
I tried adding Z hop at 5 mm but it's not really helping.
Sorry for the picture, white on white is hard to show.
I tried a range of speeds from 40-90 mm/s and over extrusion of 100-105 %, but the scar remains.
Any suggestions?
Here is the end code:
```
;TIME_ELAPSED:333.340017
G1 F1500 E417.35346
M140 S0
M141 S0
M107
M104 S0
M140 S0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
M104 S0
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
Z-Hops *only occur when the slicer is retracting Filament automatically* (i.e. when Cura detects a move between parts/around outer walls where stringing would be a problem).
In your end G-Code, you *do retract* your filament, but manually. This means that Cura does not add the Z-Hop code.
**Solution:** Add this before your `G28 X0 Y0` command:
```
G91 ;Change Positioning to relative
G1 Z5 ;Move head up by 5mm (or bed down, depending on your machine)
```
The `G91` command is needed because otherwise you wold need to provide an absolute Z position which is guaranteed to be above your last layer (so you would either need to set the height to the top of your build volume (takes ages to move the head there) or to adjust the height for each printed part (annoying)).
Documentation for the `G91` command: http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G091.html
Manual for Z-Hop and other travel moves in Cura: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52507-travel
**Edit:**
Note that this is only a good idea if `MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS` are enabled in your Marlin `configuration.h`. Otherwise, the head could move ABOVE the maximum Z height (`zMax`) if the print height `h >= zMax -5mm`.
Thanks to @0scar for mentioning this!
---
Tags: print-quality
--- |
thread-11371 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11371 | Which NEMA 17 Stepper Motor for Titan? | 2019-11-15T07:48:36.400 | # Question
Title: Which NEMA 17 Stepper Motor for Titan?
I'm trying to find a comparable Nema17 (42BYGHW609) for my new Titan extruder state side with non-month-long shipping from China.
Would this work (and about the same size and weight as the recommended 42BYGHW609)?
* 45 N•cm (63.7 oz•in) holding torque
* NEMA 17 bipolar 1.65"x1.65"x1.57" 4-wire
* 1.8° step angle (200 steps/rev)
* Rated current 2 A & resistance 1.1 Ω
Candidates:
# Answer
The safest thing to do is to wait a month (it probably won't take that long anyway), and order the correct stepper motor from China, or pay more and locally source the 42BYGHW609.
The 42BYGHW609 is a commonly used stepper and it is best to keep *all* of the steppers matched - just for ease of calibration, matched performance/behaviour, and future maintainability.
Otherwise you need to match (at least) the torque, the inductance, the rated current and resistance of the coils, if not the physical size and the stepping angle. Which is not an impossible task, but a bit of a pain, TBH.
The time that you spend verifying the various steppers and then re-checking and worrying would be better spent ordering the correct one in the first place and waiting for it to arrive.
BTW, take a look at the RepRapWiki - Nema 17 page which lists suitable stepper motors.
---
As an aside, if this is your first purchase from China and are worried about reliability of service, then don't. I order everything from China, and haven't had a problem. In addition, if you order via eBay/PayPal you are financially protected if your order doesn't arrive (which does sometimes happen), or, alternatively, order from AliExpress, where I have never had something not arrive (if that makes sense)
---
I have just realised that you need an extruder replacement (and not a X/Y/Z stepper)... in which case, as towe states, either of your candidates is probably fine, although maybe over-torqued (slightly).
However, I, personally, would still replace the stepper with the same model that the 3D printer originally came with, but that is just my personal preference - unless you had found the 42BYGHW609 to be not strong enough, and you actually *want to up the torque*..?
> 2 votes
---
Tags: stepper, motor, e3d-titan
--- |
thread-11376 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11376 | How to find Printrboard pin numbers in Marlin | 2019-11-15T18:34:29.183 | # Question
Title: How to find Printrboard pin numbers in Marlin
I'm looking for a Printrboard board image with the pin numbers labeled. Specifically for Rev. F.
Specifically, I'd like to know what each pin on the `EXP1` and `EXP2` correspond to numberwise within Marlin.
The `pins.h` file for the Printrboard Rev. F doesn't include any other files and doesn't indicate what pin number corresponds to which part on the board...
There is this google sheets file which provides some of the information.
This image has the categories of each pin labeled. But I'm looking for where the pin numbers on the board correspond to the numbers in Marlin, similar to this image for the MKS Gen L:
# Answer
As FarO suggested, from github:Printrbot/printrboard/revF2 (via RepRapWiki - Printrboard \- Revision History), the EagleCAD board layout and schematics are contained in the `printrboard-revF2.zip`:
* `Printrboard.sch`
* `Printrboard.brd`
This is the EagleCAD schematic:
EagleCAD board layout
Not quite the *annotated* diagram that you were after, unfortunately, but it might help.
---
There are a couple of configuration files on KevinOConnor/klipper, but unfortunately only for revisions B to D (at90usb1286) and (SAM3x8c)... E and F are not available.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: marlin
--- |
thread-5486 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5486 | Anet A6 heat bed stopped working | 2018-02-13T14:01:03.743 | # Question
Title: Anet A6 heat bed stopped working
Just last night the heat bed stopped working. It was fine up to 75 % of the print, then when it was done the bed was not on anymore. The display said it was set to 50 °C, but it was at 18 °C. I did try moving the pins, and that is not loose (very simple thing to try).
I want to know what could have happened and what to look for when I try to fix the heat bed.
Please note: I do have a multi-meter. I do not use a MOSFET (I do have plans to install on)
Upon further investigation, I tested the mother board for any voltage were the bed hooks up and there is nothing. I had the printer trying to heat the bed when I was testing. But the thermistor is working, when I unhooked the connection the thermistor went to 0 °C, when plugged in it went to 18 °C.
Is it the motherboard? How can I fix this knowing no power is being supplied to the bed from the motherboard? Do I need a new motherboard?
# Answer
> 3 votes
This is a shot in the dark, but the vast majority of problems with a heating bed stopping to work is usually at the cables/connectors interface.
This is because in printers like the A6, the cable/connector is subject to constant mechanical stress, and - since metal fatigue is a thing - either the solder or the cable core cracks.
You should make good use of your tester to verify the integrity of the circuit in the bed and if it is not toasted you should be able to just repair the connection.
For many printers there exist "strain relief mods" to prevent this type of failure to happen. The first one showing up for the A6 is a full chain, but normally is enough the have a small enclosure for the connector like this one for the CR-10.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The bed stopped working yesterday. I used the multimeter on the bed plug. The bed heater reads 1.7-1.8 Ohm.
There was no 12 V supplied from the mainboard and I read its terminals. There were 12 V there. I tightened the screws and the plug received 12 V.
The bed heated for one print. Today I repeated the troubleshooting and found that the bed plug still had 12 V. When I pulled it, the Red terminal was burnt and melted into the plug. After cleaning it by inserting and removing it several times, the bed started working again. The Red and Black wires are hot to touch though.
This is the troubleshooting procedure one should follow. What remains to be confirmed is whether the resistance of the bed heater is correct; 1.8 Ohm at 12 V is about 80 W. Sounds about right, so the wires should not overheat.
I suspected a possibility of the shorting to the aluminum bed, but then the bed would be heated only in some areas, but mine is heated evenly across the entire surface area.
Edit: For now I ended up cutting the Red wire's terminal from the plug and soldering the wire directly to the bed. I might order the new bed harness from Anet, or not.
---
Tags: heated-bed, anet-a6
--- |
thread-11388 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11388 | Are silicone socks safe? | 2019-11-19T03:50:07.807 | # Question
Title: Are silicone socks safe?
It's fairly common for E3D to sell silicone socks for their hot ends. There are also other companies that sell these silicone socks for their hot end cartridges.
According to a brief internet search, it seems the ignition temperature of silicone is surprisingly low - around 450 °C. This surprised me because I was under the impression silicone would just burn / evaporate if it were heated up to a much higher temperature.
If my thermistor/heatrod slips off, my heatrod will glow into an orange temperature during thermal runway. This only happens briefly, but its color indicates it is reaching a temperature around 790 °C.
So, are silicone socks safe? Couldn't they ignite fairly easily?
# Answer
> 19 votes
Neither your thermistor nor your heater cartridge should ever be capable of becoming loose from your hotend, let alone the fact it's capable of reaching 800 °C before your printer even notices (This is a massive issue in itself!!!)
Silicone socks are safe, unless you're printing materials with extremely high melting points, which is *usually* never.
If you're concerned it's going to autoignite mid-print, you have much bigger issues surrounding your hotend than a silicone sock.
# Answer
> 19 votes
Silicone socks are **safe to use**, provided your **printer is safely operating** and you are **using the silicone socks in their operating temperature range**.
---
# Your current setup is NOT SAFE!
---
When the heater element falls out of the heater block (that should not happen in the first place, please secure it correctly) and heats up to about 800 °C this means that the printer has no active Thermal Runaway Protection (TRP) enabled. Basically, when the thermistor doesn't measure a temperature rise while the voltage to the heater element is being scheduled, the firmware should shut down the voltage to the heater element. When this fails, the heater element can reach dangerously high temperatures to start burning anything that can catch a flame on touch. In deliberate tests, heaters have been able to melt the aluminium of the hotend:
You **should be worried at this point** as you see from the link you provided what happens if the heater is not shut off when the heater element is disconnected from the heater block:
Please **fix your printer ASAP** by uploading a proper firmware with enabled TRP protection before proceeding to print anything or at least don't let it print without supervision and proper smoke/fire detection devices.
---
Tags: safety
--- |
thread-11393 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11393 | Acetone Smoothing an ABS Cone - (New to 3D printing) | 2019-11-19T10:11:08.900 | # Question
Title: Acetone Smoothing an ABS Cone - (New to 3D printing)
Today marked my first time using a 3D printer - have to admit I was originally skeptical but am now incredibly impressed and am having to hold myself back from purchasing one for myself! Was a great experience.
Anyway, I build rockets, and decided to 3D print a bespoke nose cone (Link 1) to fit my rocket. However the sliced layers probably won't do great for aerodynamics, so I've looked into ways to smooth the cone out. I was wondering, using an acetone vapour bath as seen in Link 2, is it possible to smooth the surface of my print **without loosing shape**? It's only small (12x4x4 cm), and I'm worried that the acetone that smooths the surface could misshape the cone (which I would rather keep perfectly symmetrical!) or cause ABS to melt and pool around the base.
Will the acetone disfigure the print, or is it possible to give it a vapour bath without it pooling and melting?
Link 1: Thingiverse - Ogive Nose Cone
Link 2: Simple way to make ultra-smooth 3D prints at home
# Answer
> is it possible to smooth the surface of my print without loosing shape?
That is by definition impossible. Smoothing the surface implies that the geometry is changed. Rather, the question is: *how much* does acetone smoothing change the shape, and is that change within the tolerances of your application?
Acetone smoothing is a fickle process, and how (much) the geometry is changed depends on a lot of factors, such as the concentration of the acetone vapor, the amount of time the print is exposed to it, the exact composition of the plastic, geometry of the print, etc... It is definitely possible to overdo it and melt your print into a puddle, but it is also possible to smooth it out without affecting the geometry significantly.
I would recommend experimenting with the process and seeing whether you can tune the process (time/concentration) so that you get a smooth enough part without affecting the geometry too much.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: abs, acetone
--- |
thread-11369 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11369 | Painting Text on Model | 2019-11-14T17:57:47.840 | # Question
Title: Painting Text on Model
For a model that has raised text on it, how do go about painting the very top layer of text, to make it stand out from the background? Lets say I printed the whole model the same color, what type of paint would work well, and not get on the background too?
Here's an example of a model that has raised text: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3025280
# Answer
You don't provide any dimensions or sizes, but...
Assuming that the text is sufficiently elevated from the rest of the model, you could use a firm solid (as opposed to soft and spongey) roller, of an appropriate width.
This should enable you to paint just the text without getting paint on the rest of the model.
* If the text is small and in a "valley" or groove, then a narrow roller would be required, in order to avoid the surface either side of the text.
* If the text is not on a flat, or smooth surface, then a small diameter roller might be required.
* If you can't find a tiny paint roller, you could *jerry-rig* one using a paper clip and a roller wheel from an old cassette tape
> 2 votes
# Answer
The technique you look for is *drybrushing* and not dependant on a specific type of color, as long as it can be applied with a brush.
An alternative technique might be carefully applying glue and leaf metal.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I recommend to print stencil for the text. Basically flat thin plate with text holes in it. Just cover your model with it and only text will be painted through the hole. In this way you could do it rough, fast or like Mr Bean did.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: post-processing
--- |
thread-11400 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11400 | How to correctly clean the Lacquer from bed? | 2019-11-19T21:48:14.293 | # Question
Title: How to correctly clean the Lacquer from bed?
How can I correctly clean the lacquer from bed printer?
I have used some ethylic alcohol (ethanol) to help cleaning
But what is the best way to do it?
# Answer
The Ender 3 does not come with a lacquered surface at all.The bed should have a rough build surface that is a clone of the BuildTak build surface. It is *intended* to be rough and satin-gloss in its native state. I do not remember if there was a thin protective plastic foil on my Ender-3 bed on delivery, but if there was, it should have been removed during assembly.
A BuildTak surface can be easily cleaned with isopropyl or ethyl alcohol of grease and fingerprints. The odd discoloration at the edges seems to be a layer of grease and dust, which can be easily cleaned away by soaking it in Isopropyl alcohol and then wiped with a microfiber cloth.
If the bed surface is destroyed by chipping holes into it, sanding it or otherwise ruining it (like melting plastic rap into it), you will need to replace it. Replacement surfaces come about 5 bucks on Amazon. Doing this, you might find How to clean up my buildpate for a new build surface? helpful.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The "lacquer" you are referring to is assumed to be the discoloured parts of the heat bed, not the original surface layer of the heat bed. The discoloured parts of the heatbed are most probably caused by residue build-up.
If this residue build-up is caused by depositing a print adhesive containing PolyVinylPyrrolidone (glue stick ingredient) or PolyVinylAcetate (hairspray or 3D print spray ingredient), you can simply wash is of with water using a wet hand-warm towel or a sponge. Both constituents are dissolvable in water.
I do this frequently on non-removable aluminium heat beds (using moist kitchen towel) or removable glass bed (rinse off in the sink).
> 0 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, creality-ender-3, bed
--- |
thread-11391 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11391 | Klipper doesn't seem to adjust Z after BED_MESH_CALIBRATE | 2019-11-19T07:19:34.300 | # Question
Title: Klipper doesn't seem to adjust Z after BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
My rig:
* Ender 3
* BLTouch
* Octopi
* Klipper
* Solid bed mounts
I've updated my start G-code from Cura to include a `G29` right after `G28` and my Klipper config has the following override for `G29`:
```
[gcode_macro G29]
gcode:
BED_MESH_CLEAR
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default
```
Every print now goes through `BED_MESH_CALIBRATE` sequence and the Bed Visualizer plugin yields this result:
Based on the info here, Klipper: G-code commands - Mesh Bed Leveling I would expect Klipper to adjust for the differences seen in the visualization above, but the initial layers of my prints are very squished on the right and rear of bed (right and rear of image) and not squished on the left and front of the bed (left and front of image) which make it seem like `BED_MESH_CALIBRATE` measured the differences in the bed level, but didn't actually do anything about it. Isn't the point of `BED_MESH_CALIBRATE` to adjust for these differences?
You can see in the first pic below that the final move on the initial layer from the outside edge of the print (right front corner) to the inside has the nozzle so low that it melted a line in the first layer as it skidded across.
In the second pic below you can see that the left front edge of the print didn't squish properly so it has detached from the bed. What am I missing?
# Answer
I have identified the problem as lead screw backlash!
Bed calibration and Z-axis offset compensation appear to be working as intended, but there is enough backlash in the Ender 3 stock lead screw that the corrections in Z-axis movement commanded by Klipper result in almost no actual nozzle movement.
I'm measuring about 0.35 mm of backlash in my lead screw. With differences between the lowest and highest points of my bed being only 0.6 mm the best case scenario (which would only happen if I was using my entire bed) is that the actual nozzle movement would only be about 42 % of what Klipper commanded. The fix for this is to change out the lead screw for a ball screw. The problem could also be mitigated in Klipper if Klipper implemented backlash compensation, but from what I've read on GitHub it doesn't seem like that is a feature the developer of Klipper wants to implement.
Update:
I installed this anti-backlash nut and it greatly reduced the backlash, but didn't eliminate it. I've uninstalled my solid bed mounts and reinstalled springs until I upgrade to a ball-screw for the Z axis. The auto bed leveling compensation still does something, but the adjustment allowed by having springs is what is really doing most of the leveling work.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, octoprint, bltouch, klipper
--- |
thread-11265 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11265 | How can I upgrade the drivers in the Printrboard rev. D? | 2019-10-30T14:44:22.523 | # Question
Title: How can I upgrade the drivers in the Printrboard rev. D?
I have a Printrboard rev. D which includes Allegro A4982 drivers. I would like to replace them, but it appears that newer TMC drivers all require several pins for proper operation.
How can I upgrade the drivers in the Printrboard rev. D?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The developers from the Klipper firmware confirmed that Klipper doesn't care about the native functions of each pin, therefore it is indeed possible to use the expansion pins for controlling (including UART) TMC stepper drivers.
At this point I cannot confirm, but maybe Marlin allows the same by updating the pin assignments in the source code.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You can't. In fact, pretty much all boards with directly soldered drivers are not upgradable.
I'd recommend to buy a proper, contemporary, customizable board like the SKR 1.3 for TMCs. The Fysetc F6 would also work, but uses "custom" connectors and is still AVR based.
---
Tags: stepper-driver
--- |
thread-11402 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11402 | Setting up UBL for the first time on Marlin 2.x on a Prusa i3, how often should I level the bed using G29? | 2019-11-20T01:12:37.963 | # Question
Title: Setting up UBL for the first time on Marlin 2.x on a Prusa i3, how often should I level the bed using G29?
I used to use the Marlin 1.x software that would level the bed by probing the 4 corners of my print bed (a long time ago, it's been at least 2 years since I used my printer, wasn't able to set it up after I moved).
My slicer had G-code that would kick off a level at the beginning of every print.
I've upgraded to Marlin 2.x and now I'm setting up UBL. It takes quite a bit of time to probe the bed with UBL, like 10 minutes. The steps tell me to save to EEPROM and my firmware is set up to restore after every G28 (Home).
How often should I do a G29 (Bed Leveling)? Should I do it every print? Every 10 prints? 100 Prints? Or when I see that the print isn't sticking to the bed?
EDIT: I went from a Grid-style ABL to UBL because UBL merges the benefits of a few different leveling techniques so theoretically it should be better. I understand I could just go back to grid-style bed leveling but even when it was working, for some reason the z-offset would shift ever so slightly every few prints and I would have to change configure it in my slicer. I'd like to try UBL and see if I can leave my printer for a while without having to fidget with the Z-offset.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is more of a personal preference type question rather than something with a hard and fast rule.
You should not need to relevel your bed very often unless you have some external force that regularly changes the bed level.
I regularly print objects that take 24+ hours to print, so a 10 minute process prior is not much so it might be worth it to set it up every time if your prints run very long. If you mostly print smaller or quicker to print objects, 10 minutes might matter to you.
I have noticed that my prints fail pretty quickly if I have a leveling issue, and it's not hard to stop the print, clean the plate and relevel at that time.
What should you do?
If 10 minutes doesn't matter that much, go ahead and relevel with every print. If it matters, wait until you start to have issues. See how long it takes for your bed to become unleveled and use that as a guide. E.g. if you can print 10 times before having issues, then try setting it for every 6 or 7 prints.
---
Tags: marlin, prusa-i3, heated-bed, bed-leveling, glass-bed
--- |
thread-11407 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11407 | How to theoretically calculate the maximum acceleration? | 2019-11-20T18:05:00.620 | # Question
Title: How to theoretically calculate the maximum acceleration?
I would like to calculate the maximum safe acceleration for my printer using the following parameters as input:
* printhead weight
* torque at the desired speed
* steps/mm and steps/revolution
* microsteps
Elasticity of frame and belts are ignored.
The Excel file to obtain the torque at the desired speed is available here.
The other parameters are known in advance.
The formula I used for the maximum acceleration is the usual $a=F/m$, where $F=torque\*radius$:
$acceleration = torque\ \*\ (steps/rev\ /\ steps/mm\ \*\ microsteps\ /\ pi\ /\ 2) / mass$
Using 450 g, 0.15 N/m (as predicted for my stepper at 200 mm/s with 24 V), 200 steps/rev, 80 steps/mm, 16 microsteps I obtain about 2100 mm/s<sup>2</sup> which seems reasonable and pretty close to standard values.
However, from what I understood the Excel file provides the prediction of a full-step torque, but torque is known to decrease significantly with increasing microsteps.
How to introduce the effect of reduced (incremental) torque for microsteps to calculate a safe maximum acceleration value for a printer?
*For information*: my stepper and my printer were sold back then with about that acceleration value preset and with that torque at nominal speed (half voltage, half speed than I assumed here).
The print quality was fine, which seems counterintuitive considering the much reduced torque expected at 16X microsteps, about 1/10 of the value I used.
I would expect many lost microsteps with the predefined settings. Or maybe it happens: if all the microsteps are lost, the positioning error would be 16 (micro)steps / 80 steps/mm = 0.2 mm.
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**Important edit!!!**
As maybe someone noticed, the formula I used
$F=torque\*radius$
is wrong. The correct one is
$F=torque/radius$
Taking this change into account, the final formula is:
$acceleration = torque\ /\ (steps/rev\ /\ steps/mm\ \*\ microsteps\ /\ pi\ /\ 2) / mass$
which results, with the given input values, in 52 mm/s<sup>2</sup>.
This is much less than what is normally set in printers. I doubt that belt stretching and frame flexibility can affect the setting so much, therefore in addition to the microstep aspect, this one should be answered too, since the question is about "theoretically calculate the maximum acceleration".
# Answer
You do not appear to have a correct understanding of how microstepping affects torque.
What is calculated in the article you refer to is *incremental* torque. The word "incremental" is very important.
A stepper motor consists of a permanent magnet rotor and an electromagnet stator. The electromagnets generate a magnetic field, to which the stator wants to align itself. Imagine the stepper motor being at rest. As we apply a torque to it, the rotor will start to deflect from its resting state in which it is aligned with the magnetic field. As you apply more torque, the stator will deflect more.
Eventually, if we keep increasing the torque, the motor will no longer be able to hold its position and snap over to the next step. The torque at which this is happens is the holding torque. Essentially, you can think of the holding torque as the torque required to cause a full step deflection of the rotor's position (compared to where it would be aligned with the magnetic field). The deflection in response to a given torque load is called the static load angle.
The article calculates *incremental* torque for microstepping. The *incremental* microstepping torque is the torque required to cause a *microstep* deflection. So, if we are using half stepping, the incremental torque is the torque required to cause a half step deflection. Naturally the torque required to cause a half step deflection is (much) lower than the torque required to cause a full step deflection.
This is actually irrespective of what level of microstepping the motor is configured for. Causing a half step deflection requires the same amount of torque, regardless of whether the motor is using full or half stepping. All lower *incremental* torque means is that we're specifying the torque for a smaller deflection. It does not mean torque is reduced overall.
> I would expect many lost microsteps with the predefined settings.
You cannot "lose" a microstep. The rotor of a stepper motor has physical increments, and losing a step is when it snaps to the next increment. The only thing you can lose is a full step.
The stator of a stepper motor creates a rotating magnetic field. The rotor tries to follow this magnetic field, but (if under load) always lags behind it a little because the coupling between the two magnets behaves like a spring. In full-step mode, the rotating magnetic field moves in discrete steps. All enabling microstepping does is make the field rotate more "smoothly". However, it doesn't change the magnitude of the field.
If you were to look at the graph of the acceleration of the rotor on a very small time scale, you would get a sawtooth wave. Each time the motor made a full step (i.e., the magnetic field jumps), the acceleration would be high (as the misalignment between the fields would be large) and then gradually drop as the rotor aligned itself again with the magnetic field.
If you would use 16x microstepping, you would again see a sawtooth wave, but with a 16x higher frequency and with a lower peak-to-peak amplitude. However, the average value would be the same as for full step mode. The reduction in peak-to-peak amplitude corresponds to the reduction in incremental torque (and, for smooth acceleration, this reduction is actually good).
The main reason to be interested in incremental torque is to determine the positioning error. If you imagine the printhead being at rest, a single microstep may not cause any motion because the incremental torque is too low to overcome static friction. So, using 16x microstepping will not allow 16x as precise positioning. However, maximum acceleration is not affected.
The second part of your question, where you get the unrealistically low value of 52mm/s<sup>2</sup>, is based on a simple calculation error. The correct value is 52m/s<sup>2</sup> or 52000mm/s<sup>2</sup>.
> 4 votes
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Tags: acceleration
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