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thread-10728
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10728
|
Is a BLTouch probe used during a print after the first layer?
|
2019-07-31T19:08:50.730
|
# Question
Title: Is a BLTouch probe used during a print after the first layer?
I was looking at a BLTouch probe, and saw the recent question about one with intermittent failure. That was kind of scary, where I might spend a bunch of money for something that would make my printer harder to use, rather than easier.
But I was curious. I don't have any personal experience using these, but it seems like the probe would only be used during an initial level and when homing the Z axis. Thus, as long as the probe works most of the time, and failure to home properly doesn't damage your nozzle or print bed, maybe this kind of thing isn't too bad.
Is this assessment of how the probe functions (that it's not really used after the start of a print) accurate?
In the spirit of stack exchange, I'm not interested in the subjective issue of nozzle or print bed damage; I'm only asking about the objective assessment of how a probe is used by the printer.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your assessment is correct, after probing before printing it deploys several times, after that it is stowed till the end of the print unless you call for deployment.
---
The probe is used by G-code command `G29`; this command is used by a few printer firmwares to perform a bed probing sequence where, depending on the options set in the firmware, the surface of the bed is scanned by deploying the sensor at various locations. From these measurements, the firmware will determine the shape or tilt of the bed to compensate for deviations in Z height during the first couple of layers or millimeters of the print. Basically, it will keep your nozzle (approximately, as it is based on calculations) at the same distance all over the bed area.
Once the print starts after the `G29` command, the sensor is stowed until the next print calls the `G29` command (or `M280` with arguments to deploy on Marlin/Duet/Smoothieware, or `M340` on Repetier firmware).
---
Tags: z-probe, bltouch
---
|
thread-10730
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10730
|
Auto home issue on ender 3
|
2019-08-01T00:20:42.777
|
# Question
Title: Auto home issue on ender 3
I own a Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm
I am a newbie and last night finally got a halfway decent print, but tonight I went to Auto Home it and it just keeps trying to move down, down down even though it physically can't go any lower. The z-axis just keeps trying to spin down. The long threaded metal rod just keeps turning like it needs to keep moving down. Any ideas?
# Answer
It sounds like your z-stop isn't engaging when it's supposed to. The z-axis end stop should be located at the left of the build plate on the z-axis column. When the gantry (with the printhead) comes down, it should contact that. If it doesn't contact it, or if the end stop isn't functioning (isn't sending the signal to stop), the z-axis will just continue to try and go down. Check to ensure it touches where you want it to touch, and if it is, then check the operation of the end stop. You can do that with a multimeter set to ohms. Just detach the wiring from the main board, place your two multimeter leads on either wire end, then click the end stop. it should go from no continuity to full continuity when you hear the end stop click.
EDIT: The endstop should look something like this:
> 3 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis
---
|
thread-3294
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3294
|
Is there a problem with removing a polished rod from the Z-axis?
|
2016-12-28T21:14:16.630
|
# Question
Title: Is there a problem with removing a polished rod from the Z-axis?
I recently had a problem with the z-axis of my printer. To resolve the issue with the Z axis not moving I remove the left polished rod. Am I able to use the printer with just one smooth rod?
# Answer
> 5 votes
First a resounding no. Not a good idea. Are you saying it works now that you have removed the smooth rod?
That tells me for sure your issue was Binding. Which is a tricky problem to solve. Binding usually happens when your carriage is not level. Take a bubble leveler and verify.
Another time it happens is when your Acceleration / Jerk settings are too high. Try reducing the Acceleration for Z in the firmware.
Another possibility is your rod is Bent. Take the rod on a flat surface. Inspect it as you roll it around. Do the same with the other rod. If it bows and is not completely flat, then you will need to replace it.
Last is make sure your printers frame is put together. If it is causing the rod to bend as it is not aligned right then you should try to see if you can fix it and contact the seller.
Technically you can run without the second rod. Maybe. I do not advise. It is sort of like cutting off a leg because you have a cramp. It will hurt your overall quality and it is better to just resolve the issue.
# Answer
> 3 votes
No, this is not a good idea. Your X axis is now free to rotate by a few degrees around the remaining Z rod. Parts may appear to print OK, but depending on the dynamics of a print, you will see offsets between layers. You need to resolve the issues with your Z-axis. These questions, z-axis hard to move in some areas - what could be faults, how to improve? and Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems have some answers that are probably relevant.
Obviously, you can use this limited setup to print new parts if you need them, but you'll be lucky to make anything accurate enough.
# Answer
> 3 votes
It may help someone I am just noting that all your comments are valid. I was reading through forums to find a solution to the binding problem. After calibrating, levelling, and adjusting, what I found out was rather simple. The two motors came out of phase (not sure how).
Here are the steps I took.
1. I unplugged the motor on the left and the other motor was driving the Z axis just fine.
2. I unplugged the motor on the right and the other motor was driving the Z axis just fine.
I started thinking in terms of my power supply providing enough current to drive both motors and then I rebooted the controller. When the system came back both motors were driving in synch.
---
Tags: z-axis
---
|
thread-10736
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10736
|
Printer doesn't lift Z between each probe
|
2019-08-01T13:01:17.737
|
# Question
Title: Printer doesn't lift Z between each probe
I don't remember making a change to marlin but today when I tried to probe my bed my Z probe homed and slowly went downwards until the probe detected the first point. then without lifting it it just kept moving over the other points without lifting or even moving the z.
I canceled that and ran an `M48`, here's the output:
```
Recv: 1 of 5: z: -0.497
Recv: 2 of 5: z: -0.497
Recv: 3 of 5: z: -0.497
Recv: 4 of 5: z: -0.497
Recv: 5 of 5: z: -0.497
Recv: Finished!
Recv: Mean: -0.497500 Min: -0.497 Max: -0.497 Range: 0.000
Recv: Standard Deviation: 0.000000
Recv:
Recv: X:74.00 Y:191.00 Z:5.29 E:0.00 Count X:5920 Y:15280 Z:116
Recv: ok
Recv: echo:endstops hit: Z:0.29
```
Any ideas on what's going on?
This is a link to my config files in a Dropbox folder.
I have an Anycubic i3 Mega-S with a graphical LCD screen.
# Answer
In my Pins.h folder turns out I needed to put a x-max pin. I hadn't defined that so it was randomly reading it as high. my printer thinking it can't go higher was freaking out basically :) this explains the other strange behavior i was experiencing!
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling
---
|
thread-10010
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10010
|
laser is engraving the negative space
|
2019-05-24T01:30:45.453
|
# Question
Title: laser is engraving the negative space
I am using LightBurn to laser engrave on wood. I am just trying to print some letters.
In the softwares preview the output looks correct. The black part is where the laser should burn and the red part are traversal/scan lines
When i actually print it the negative space is burnt by the laser (basically where the traversal/scan lines are shown in the preview above)
---
What I was able to figure out is that:
* `M42 P4 S255` properly turns on the laser when I send this command on its own,
* `M42 P4 S0` properly turns off the laser.
But the issue is when I send the following G-code, the following happens:
```
M42 P4 S255 <--- Laser turns on for a flash of a second
G1 X15 <--- By the time the movement starts the laser is already off.
M42 P4 S0
```
When i stopped using PWM (via the D11) and instead connected directly to D9 (which is for the fan) this issue stops occurring. So this issue is only occurring when I use PWM. Any Guidance on what to check
**Update:** I read the following on another forum. This might be the root cause here.
> M42 is an immediate command and would turn on the laser before it reached its intended start point, M106 and M107 are buffered so the on/off can happen in its intended locations.
# Answer
`M42` command is an immediate command. This means that it will run before the move GCode commands finish. This is exactly what I was facing.
This video has the walk-through of solving the issue:
Here is the relevant PDF it talks about: The 2.8 watt, $100 Laser Upgrade for MPCNC.
Here is the relevant section on page 7 of the PDF:
> 1. The laser driver requires a 5 volt TTL input control signal. The Marlin fan control Mcodes (M106 and M107) will be used to control the laser .Unfortunately, the Ramps fan output (D9) is a 12 volt signal so we can’t use it. We'll need a quick firmware edit to remap the fan output from pin D9 (12v) to pin 44(5v).
> 2. Make a backup copy of your Marlin firmware folder first. Open the pins\_RAMPS\_13.h file in your Marlin firmware folder with a text editor (Wordpad). Search for the line where the fan pin is assigned and change it from pin 9 to pin 44.
> 3. Save the changes and flash the revised firmware back onto your Mega board.
> 5 votes
# Answer
This is too long for a good comment but may fall short of being a true answer. If the mods prefer, I can recast it as a set of comments.
There are several differences between using a GPIO pin as a binary data pin and using one as a PWM pin, and the behavior depends on several factors:
1. Is the PWM pin a native PWN pin with hardware support, or is the PWM function being implemented with software?
2. Has the PWM pin been initialized as a PWM pin?
3. What processor type is used?
4. What is the PWM frequency?
5. Is the pin a TTL compatible output \[0.4 V low, 2.7 V high\]? CMOS? What Vcc?
6. For that matter, what is the CPU?
As @0scar points out, the fan control pin is typically not connected directly to the fan, but instead uses a FET to provide isolation and switch more current than the output pin can provide. Depending on the circuit, it may be inverting or non-inverting. M42 Pxx S255 may be full on or full off. When the fan is controlled through the fan G-code, the firmware can take possible inversion into account.
You haven't said what the input circuit to the laser involves.
1. It is active high or active low?
2. Does it require a pulse train to keep the output on, or is it static? I don't know how yours works, but I could imagine designing a laser module to require a continuous stream of pulses to keep the beam active so that a failure in the drive circuit could not create a safety hazard.
3. Is it a TTL compatible input \[0.7 low, 2.4 high\]? CMOS? What Vcc?
4. Is it something else?
Laser etching is generally on-topic for this group given the close association with 3D printing tech, but people are less familiar with the "standard systems". For some of us to be helpful (especially for me to be helpful) we need more of the circuitry and firmware context.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: g-code, laser
---
|
thread-10011
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10011
|
Anet A8 inconsistent filament flow
|
2019-05-24T04:31:40.387
|
# Question
Title: Anet A8 inconsistent filament flow
I have been attempting to get my Anet to print for a couple months now. Haven't had a huge amount of time but when I have I've worked on it. A lot of the problems I have had I have been able to trouble shoot, for example for a while I was unable to get any filament to lay, and I have since fixed this issue. Now however my filament will extrude but it is very spacey, and not solid. I have tried re-calibrating the bed, un-clogging the extruder, and increasing the flow rate but nothing works. Is it possible that I have a bad board and that is causing my problem?
\[
# Answer
The skirt *looks* ok, which tends to rule out the most extreme flow or blockage issues. However, skirt/bottom layer can be over-squashed so not ideal for calibration.
I assume this is intended to be a 100% layer rather than infill. It looks like you're achieving about 50% infill, which is a good clue.
I guessed (and confirmed in comments) that you are set for 3mm filament, but using 1.75? (I had cura default to this on me not long ago, despite printing perfectly before, and no intentional changes). One easy check would have been to try one of the provided pre-sliced models that came with the printer.
The effect of configuring for 3mm filament is to reduce flow by a factor of 3 (diameter squared), so even a 50% over extrusion still leaves you with less than half the plastic volume required.
After fixing this, you will need to raise the Z-home position slightly to enable the first layer to extrude properly.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I had similar issues with my A8 at first. If it *did* work fine and now it does not, then it is not a firmware issue. My issues were resolved when I got a *new* nozzle. If the tip is worn out or squished from crashing into the bed, no amount of cleaning is going to solve it. Also the filament it came with is probably extremely dusty and can easily reclog after cleaning.
> 0 votes
# Answer
It was a stock setting in cura with the filament diameter. Thanks for the help.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, anet-a8, underextrusion
---
|
thread-10742
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10742
|
What are the effects of the elements on 3D printed objects made with "infused" PLA
|
2019-08-02T06:19:05.233
|
# Question
Title: What are the effects of the elements on 3D printed objects made with "infused" PLA
I came across a new Steel infused PLA from Colorfabb. On the store page someone had asked, what happens if it was exposed to water, would it rust. I am actually, not sure what would happen. I am interested what the effects of leaving in the elements a 3D printed object made of the 2 most common type of fused materials.
1. Wood Infill
2. Metal Infill (not stainless steel)
Would it be preserved by the PLA coating it, or would, over time, rust and dissolve? Would the wood last forever, or will the print get discolored and become mulch?
# Answer
If you use filaments filled with metal particles, some particles will be exposed to the environment. Depending on the corrosion resistance of those metals, yes the environmental conditions will weather the print object. So if it contains iron (and does not contain elements that prevent oxidation like used in stainless steel) and it is subjected to water and oxides, the print will rust.
This is e.g. also valid for copper filled filament, which you can polish to get a gold shine surface (removing the copper oxides), or bronze filled filament, that if correctly subjected to weathering environments, will give the looks of a very old statue. In both cases this implies that the metal particles have undergone a(n) (de-)oxidation process.
> 6 votes
# Answer
The particles on the outmost part of the print which are exposed to air will rust. The ones inside will still be protected somewhat by the PLA. The rust color/effect is part of the idea, since it give certain prints an old look.
https://www.proto-pasta.com/products/magnetic-iron-pla
> 6 votes
---
Tags: filament, metal-parts
---
|
thread-10747
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10747
|
Uneven motion in X and Y directions after attempting to adjust Z motion in ADVI3++
|
2019-08-02T15:42:43.617
|
# Question
Title: Uneven motion in X and Y directions after attempting to adjust Z motion in ADVI3++
A few weeks back I updated my Monoprice Maker Select Plus from the stock firmware to ADVi3++ 3.0.2. I've put more than 20 prints through the machine since then and everything has been fine.
One of the few downsides to the new firmware is the Z control. When moving the head up using the control panel, it only moves a millimeter or two instead of the 5 or 10 is used to, meaning it can be a bit of a pain to clear the head out of the way when working with the printer.
I wanted to adjust the setting, so I went through the settings section of my new firmware, trying different values for various options to see if one would change what happens when I pushed the up arrow button for the z axis. I was careful to only ever change values for the Z axis, and after each change I set things back to where they were.
I never did find what I was looking for, but that will be a topic for a future question.
The very next print after doing this came out awful. I can no longer get a clean, straight line. Instead, the edges are all wavy... and it's *way worse* than simple ringing. On longer linear stretches I can observe the print head does not move smoothly, but rather speeds up and slows down. It never really stops, but it doesn't move consistently, either. It kind of pulses as it goes.
I have duplicated this with a known good gcode file, so I know it's not the slice. I can move the bed freely with the printer off, and this started on both axises simultaneously, conveniently after my z-axis experiment, so I don't believe it's a problem with bearings.
I've tried restoring factory defaults and even re-flashing the firmware, but it hasn't helped.
Any ideas on how to correct this?
# Answer
Found the problem.
The screws connecting the carriage plate to the assembly that connects to the Y-axis belt had loosened, allowing some free play for movements in the Y direction and vibration for movements in the X direction. It just happened to go from nothing to unprintable all at once at the same time I was experimenting with the Z settings.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, firmware, monoprice-maker-select-plus
---
|
thread-10750
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10750
|
What clearance should I leave between parts that are supposed to fit together perfectly when using a .6mm diameter nozzle?
|
2019-08-04T03:33:42.833
|
# Question
Title: What clearance should I leave between parts that are supposed to fit together perfectly when using a .6mm diameter nozzle?
Here's the thing that I'm working on putting together (the purple stud on the bottom right should be up higher like the one on the left).
Notice how the purple studs fit into the red ring? Well, most of the parts are like that in one way or another. That is, most of the parts need to start right where another part ends with no gap and without being too tight.
Are there any good rules of thumb for knowing how much smaller a male part needs to be to fit into a female part? I want a good fit but I don't want to have to jam them in.
I'm doing this at the library and just getting down there and setup is an ordeal. The blue cylinder (4x102mm) alone takes almost 4 hours to print with a nozzle size of .6mm. ...I imagine this is how it must have felt when people had to program on punch cards, lol. Except, this isn't just a logic thing. It's an experimentation thing and it's taking up a ton of my time.
How can I get these parts to fit together perfectly like they do in my model?
# Answer
First, find or make a tolerance checking test print. This basically just involves a few cylinders with diameters something like 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, ... mm smaller than a cylindrical hole, and lets you figure out what works without going through lots of iterations on your actual part design or time on the printer. Make note that diameter (2 gaps) vs radius/gap-width (single gap) is a really important distinction here.
With that said, your design does not look well-suited to 3D printing. The purple studs are **going to break**. That's pretty much a given. And overall there are just way too many pieces. A big part of the advantage of 3D printing is that you don't have to assemble things out of parts that would be easy to produce (or available stock) with traditional manufacturing methods. You can often produce a complete working result all in one print, or two or three if there really need to be separable parts.
I would replace the purple studs and red piece that looks like it's intended to allow easy connection/removal with a threaded interface. That would distribute the forces much more evenly, and it's easier to print. If you don't care what orientation it stops at, it's super easy; otherwise you have to put some sort of stop or predict where the friction will hold it.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, nozzle, dimensional-accuracy
---
|
thread-10754
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10754
|
Ender 5: Bowden tube shifts in/out of extruder during retractions
|
2019-08-04T22:26:06.673
|
# Question
Title: Ender 5: Bowden tube shifts in/out of extruder during retractions
I have an Ender 5 with an aluminum extruder that was printing beautifully for a few days after building it. I received a Capricorn bowden tube and new couplings as a gift, and replaced those, and now I have stringing issues I can't solve.
I've been all over the map with settings (temps, speeds, z-hop, retraction, etc. etc.), I've swapped the tubes, the couplings, the filament, I've checked for clogs, and put clamps on the collars, but no matter what I do, the tube shifts in and out during retractions by about .25 - .5 mm. I suspect that has something to do with the stringing, as nothing else has solved it.
Any suggestions are appreciated. I haven't made adjustments to the extruder, but I don't know if that's possible or necessary. I've never had a system using the bowden, so that part of 3d printing is new to me. I'm using 3d Solutech PLA.
# Answer
> 2 votes
If it's just the pressure fitting on the brass coupler that shifts in/out, or the PTFE tube shifting slightly in/out but remaining in the coupler, that shouldn't be a problem unless it's so loose it can come out entirely. The blue clips which should have come with the printer are intended to stop this motion or at least provide enough pressure to prevent it from falling all the way out.
Regarding the small 0.25 - 0.5 mm of play, effectively it just means you lose that much length from your retractions, since part of the retraction goes into pulling the tube back into the coupler. When the retraction is reversed, the effective filament position should go back to what it was before the retraction. As long as your retraction amount is sufficient after the loss, it should not cause stringing.
You probably need to look for another cause of your stringing.
---
Tags: pla, extruder, bowden, retraction, creality-ender-5
---
|
thread-10755
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10755
|
Setting the startpoint of the EZABL 3x3 mesh
|
2019-08-05T01:38:21.827
|
# Question
Title: Setting the startpoint of the EZABL 3x3 mesh
How do I set the startpoint of the EZABL 3x3 mesh. The startpoint is hitting my bed clip.
# Answer
The "EZ" company (TH3D) is trying to make flashing firmware easy by making choices in the configuration for people to set based on printer type. While this makes the flashing more accessible to more people, it does not help people to understand what actually happens in the firmware or what is meant by certain settings. See it as an automated process to add automatic bed levelling to a number of printer models.
To change the bed probing area, you need to modify some specific lines that specify the probe area. How you should change this is explained in this answer on question *"How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?"*. It would be best to set or increase the constant `MIN_PROBE_EDGE`. This effectively makes the probe area smaller so you will not hit the bed clips.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, ezabl
---
|
thread-7334
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7334
|
Does moving the z-endstop upwards affect the maximum height of the printable object?
|
2018-10-30T20:46:41.930
|
# Question
Title: Does moving the z-endstop upwards affect the maximum height of the printable object?
As moving the endstop upwards reduces the range of the z-axis, I was wondering whether it reduces the maximum height of the printable object, by the distance the endstop was moved. Or is this somehow (to a certain extent) beeing counterbalanced?
(Follow-up question of this question)
# Answer
If you move up the end stop such that it raises the nozzle with respect to the build platform you lose height, so basically the answer is yes. But, as seen in your referenced question, your nozzle location is determined by the mechanical layout of the printer and the end stop had to be raised in order to print at all. This means that although you have less height to move the Z gantry, it can now actually print the full range the printer is designed for (the max Z to print is fixed in the configuration of the firmware of the printer and is always smaller than the maximum Z of the mechanical layout). Theoretically, if you ever make a lower profile hotend head, you would be able to lower the end stop and gain a little in height and adjust the firmware maximum Z height.
E.g. in Marlin firmware, for an Anet A8 3D printer,
```
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
in the Configuration.h file defines the maximum print height of 240 mm. If you would deliberately increase the Z end stop height and platform by let's say 50 mm, the printer thinks it still can print 240 mm, but in reality the gantry will crash against the top mounts and thus limit your printing height.
> 6 votes
# Answer
After adjusting the endstop check that the documented maximum height (150mm) is still achievable. Just move Z axis in the menu.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: endstop
---
|
thread-10762
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10762
|
What filaments allow air to pass but not water vapor?
|
2019-08-06T15:12:19.663
|
# Question
Title: What filaments allow air to pass but not water vapor?
In some situations it useful to have a material in which air passes but water, and water vapor, does not. Printing cell membranes or cases for something that must be immune to humidity changes (like something that holds a highly oxidative metal) are two examples.
**Teflon** (PTFE) is a material that has this property. But PTFE is horrendous to 3D print.
**Silicone** is another material that has this property. 3D printing silicone can be done with a syringe mechanism. But there are also thermoplastic rubbers (e.g. TPU, TPE) that are designed to mimic Silicone.
Are there any filaments on the market which naturally form holes with the porous diameter for this feature? Is there any way to manipulate the diameter of this hole, even starting from pellets? Are some filaments more likely than others to have this feature?
# Answer
It is difficult enough to make 3D-printed objects water-tight (unless you paint them). Making them permeable to air but not water vapour is too big an ask, I think.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: filament, print-material, material, filament-choice
---
|
thread-10765
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10765
|
Can 3d printers be operated at voltages above 24 volts?
|
2019-08-06T20:01:09.120
|
# Question
Title: Can 3d printers be operated at voltages above 24 volts?
Going from 12V electronics to 24V produces a reduction in the overall amount of heat generated in the electronics (that are not intended to get hot). These include the motors, drivers, mosfets and pcb traces.
Why then given that 48V power supplies and electronic components cost exactly the same as their 24v counterparts, are there no 48V 3d printers?
Is there a saftey aspect to 48V that needs to be considered?
EDIT: Yes 48V fans cost a little more but it's not exorbitant. It seems odd to move from 12 to 24 to get half as much heat, when you could move from 12 to 48v and get a quarter as much heat.
# Answer
I believe the main issue is the voltage regulators and capacitors on your standard print main board are not rated for 48V. You can find some CNC shields that can handle up to 36V but these are lacking 3d printer features such as heater ports and only have 4 stepper slots.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: electronics
---
|
thread-10768
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10768
|
Ender 3 has developed a tendancy to skip Y steps
|
2019-08-07T01:33:39.507
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 has developed a tendancy to skip Y steps
Recently my Ender 3 has developed a problem of skipping Y steps (layer shift in the Y direction), and it seems to be getting progressively worse. I'd never experienced layer shift before a few weeks ago when I tried some extreme accelerations (up to 3000 mm/s²), which mostly worked fine, but I stopped after getting a couple layer shifts, and now have X acceleration at 2000 mm/s² and Y acceleration back at the default of 500 mm/s².
When the layer shifts happen, I usually hear "grinding" sounds that seem like they're coming from friction of the nozzle moving over the already-deposited material. Bed leveling/height is correct though.
Magnitude of the layer shifts varies between 1 mm and 3 mm. They're all in the positive direction (layers shifts towards the back of the bed).
Speeds are reasonable, 30 mm/s for outer walls, 60 mm/s for inner and infill, 120 mm/s for travel.
Is there a likely mechanical or electrical cause for the onset of skipped steps/layer shift?
Is it possible that the high X acceleration is what's allowing the very high travel speed to be achieved, and that such high travel speed is putting the nozzle on top of cold material that it drags on without giving it a chance to soften it first? Or is the printer underpowered such that there's insufficient current to provide the necessary Y motor torque while the X is under high acceleration? Lowering the X acceleration back to default (500 mm/s²) does seem to make it less likely or less severe, but it's still happening.
# Answer
While I first experienced layer shifts a couple times before upgrading, only while using *extreme* acceleration settings (3000 mm/s² is fairly extreme for moving the bed), their regular occurrance, which is near-constant with some files, seems to have started after I upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9. Reverting to the manufacturer's firmware, with no mechanical changes to the printer whatsoever, has the same file printing now with no layer shifts. So I think it's safe to say that this is a firmware problem - either a bug in Marlin, or a problem with the Ender 3 configuration headers for it. The bug tracker suggests this kind of thing is an ongoing issue; here are two among a **large** number of related bug tracker threads:
I'll try the latest 2.0.x, and/or turning features off one at a time in 1.1.9, and see if I can isolate the cause, then open a new question about bugs in Marlin causing layer shifts if needed.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, acceleration, layer-shifting
---
|
thread-10772
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10772
|
Y-axis layer shifts with recent Marlin on Ender 3
|
2019-08-07T23:16:14.850
|
# Question
Title: Y-axis layer shifts with recent Marlin on Ender 3
Since upgrading from the manufacturer's firmare to recent Marlin (first 1.1.9, then 2.0.x git HEAD), I've been having significant model-dependent (didn't happen for first few things I tried to print; other prints reproduce it reliably) layer shifting on the Y axis. It's always in the positive Y direction, usually by 1-3 mm at a time.
I first suspected mechanical problems (see: Ender 3 has developed a tendancy to skip Y steps), but reverting the firmware confirmed that it's a firmware problem.
A number of bug tracker entries for Marlin indicate that there are significant ongoing layer shift problems:
But most end up getting closed. Some people say reverting to 1.1.9 from 2.0.x helped; others say 1.1.9 is EOL and to use 2.0.x. Is there a solution? How do I get a working version of Marlin (new enough to have Linear Advance 1.5, which was my motivation for upgrading) on Ender 3?
# Answer
Buried in a bug tracker entry for a seemingly unrelated issue, I found what seems to be the solution:
> @johanmga, I've discovered the velocity jumps here come from using "classic jerk" computations, and happen whether or not s-curve acceleration is enabled.
>
> Try uncommenting `//#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION` in Configuration\_adv.h; that will disable classic jerk and use the junction deviation math instead.
>
> Also for reference, issue #12403 is actively tracking the layer shift issue (please comment there too if you have more information on problems/solutions), and #12540 is has more information on classic jerk vs. junction deviation.
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12491#issuecomment-443464603
It seems that the "classic jerk" code no longer works and produces erroneous motion to the steppers under some conditions (dependent on G-code contents), whereas the Ender 3 default configuration file is still using it.
With the default `JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM` of 0.02, things worked right away, but printing was so slow that I could plausibly attribute it working just to the slowness. But increasing it up to 0.1 via the menus got the speed closer to what I'm used to, and it's still printing with no layer shifts.
I've posted my results in the tracker in hopes that they'll lead to discovery of the root cause: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403#issuecomment-519305409
Another issue on the tracker seems to have more detail:
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12540#issuecomment-442793326
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3, firmware, layer-shifting
---
|
thread-6965
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6965
|
Why is it conventional to set line width > nozzle diameter?
|
2018-09-21T06:13:23.900
|
# Question
Title: Why is it conventional to set line width > nozzle diameter?
I recently became curious about the Line Width setting in Cura and why one might change it if they aren't using different size nozzle.
Since I've gotten my Ender 3, I've always kept the line width equal to my nozzle size (*0.4 mm*). I've looked around a bit, and it seems like most people actually set their line widths to be higher, depending upon who you ask anywhere from 120 - 150 % nozzle diameter.
Why is this? They mention that it helps with print adhesion, but why? Shouldn't a 0.4 mm nozzle create a line of plastic 0.4 mm wide, necessitating a line spacing of 0.4 mm?
# Answer
There are several things at play that can make a wider line nice to have:
# First layer adhesion
Due to some filaments having serious struggle to get the first line or layer stuck to the bed, it can be an easy fix to just increase the line width, generating a bigger Adhesive Force $F\_a\propto A(l,w)$, where A is the area covered by the line, and thus simply $A=l\*w$ with length l and width w of the line. So, a wider line means better *initial* adhesion and *can* lead to less failed prints in layer 1.
# Plastic Goo
Plastics under heat behave in certain ways: they turn into a gooey substance that expands. This is also the reason why prints shrink a little as they cool. Now, if we press the plastic onto the bed with more force (as we force more plastic through than before to go from 0.4 mm to 0.5 mm) for the first time, we have a roughly flat area. The extra filament will make a wider line. The slicher can account for that, and does.
Now, next layer up: Where does the extra material go now? Plastic goo has one property that is very interesting: it tries to shrink its surface as much as possible. Heat a short piece with an airgun and it gets a little beady. But on the other hand, it comes hot enough from the nozzle to melt a tiny surface area of the already built layers, which is how layer bonding works in the first place. But our goopy plastic finds the layer below not exactly flat like the first layer found its lower surface, it finds a shape of ridges and valley. Taking into account that it wants to have the least surface to non-plastic (=air) and slightly cross bonds with the print, it will fill these nooks and crevices *inside* the print a tiny little better, as the increased force we use to push it out also increased the speed at which it expands to them: we reduce the time a tiny bit to reach there. How does it matter?
Well, heat transfer bases, roughly speaking, on a formula like this: $Q = mc\Delta T$ Q is the thermal energy of the object, m the mass of the object, c its specific heat capacity and T the temperature, ΔT the temperature change. But we don't have a homogenous object, we got pretty much a heat distribution with touching zones of different heat. The actual formula for the heat transfer inside the object is a long mess containing stuff like the gradient $\text{grad}T$, thermal conductivities, and integrals, but what matters is the result: The faster-expanding line of filament loses a little less thermal energy to its surroundings than the less forceful extruded line, which can increase the bonding between the two as the temperature on several fronts:
* it enters the crevices further before reverting from goo to solid, leading to better adhesion for more surface.
* it contains more thermal energy that can and will get transmitted to the layer below and has a bigger surface area, so it can increase the zone thickness that gets remelted a tiny bit, increasing the layer bonding strength a little.
This *can* result in a problem though: if you don't give the printed lines enough time to cool, it can lead to the material to accumulate heat more and more, leading to the whole thing to melt and turn into goop. An easy fix to this side problem is minimum layer time. But that would be only tangential to the original question, so look for example at the question here or the video the thermal picture above is taken from here.
> 15 votes
# Answer
> Shouldn't a 0.4 mm nozzle create a line of plastic 0.4 mm wide
Not necessarily. Due to a phenomenon known as die swell extruding plastic through a 0.4 mm nozzle, the line of plastic that is created is actually slightly wider. Pressure inside the extruder compresses the plastic slightly, and it expands again as it exists the nozzle.
> They mention that it helps with print adhesion, but why?
When you extrude a thicker line of plastic than your nozzle diameter, the "excess" plastic is compressed by the nozzle and forced out to the side. This pushes the plastic into the layer below, increasing adhesion. You can compare this to taking a hot glue gun, pressing the tip into the surface and squeezing the trigger, versus lifting the glue gun above the surface and letting the glue drip onto the surface. Doing the former creates much stronger adhesion.
As a side effect, using thicker lines makes it easier to get the first layer to stick, since the thicker line has more surface area to adhere to.
> 11 votes
# Answer
There are several yet unmentioned considerations:
Given the same movement speed thicker lines fill up a layer quicker, because more volume is extruded per second. In some systems the extrusion flow is the limiting factor for speed, but around corners the print head needs to slow down. Thicker lines = less lines = less corners = less slow down = higher print speed.
Thicker lines have less detail, though. A line of 0.6 mm cannot represent details smaller than that, so smaller line widths capture the input geometry better. Also corners will get rounded by the same distance, so thicker lines = rounder corners.
Thicker lines create worse overhang. Thicker lines require more pressure from the nozzle and if the layer below is (partly) missing the back pressure from the previous layer is less, which results in overextension, which will then also more likely go downward instead of to the sides.
The higher pressure can force lines into small crevices of the layer below, though. This was highlighted by Trish already.
The model Cura uses for a single line is rectangular, while in actuality the printed lines are rounded on the sides. This makes the width of the full extend from side to side larger than computed, at the cost of the corners of the rectangular model. This means that the line width setting should be set slightly smaller than what you would want the lines to end up like.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I'll give a short answer here: It's the volume. The the nozzle redistributes the volume of the plastic into a different shape. i.e. the nozzle is turning a cylinder of 0.4 mm diameter into a rectangle of the same volume, which a function of the layer height / volume = line width.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, nozzle, knowledgebase
---
|
thread-10744
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10744
|
Marlin on Arduino Mega 2650 and RAMPS 1.4
|
2019-08-02T07:37:20.783
|
# Question
Title: Marlin on Arduino Mega 2650 and RAMPS 1.4
I have been messing around trying to flash marlin 1.1 onto my Arduino Mega 2650 and RAMPS 1.4. I have Managed to get it to upload fine however it will not upload with the LCD I want. I am trying to upload it and have it set to a "RepRap Discount Smart Controller". When I uploaded the firmware it was on the stock Anet LCD, however when I try to change this in the file and verify it I get an error that I do not understand. I have done some digging on google but haven't really been able to figure out the answer. Here's the error:
```
sketch\ultralcd.cpp:4860:3: internal compiler error: Segmentation fault
DEFINE_MENU_EDIT_TYPE(uint32_t, long5, ftostr5rj, 0.01f);
^
Please submit a full bug report,
with preprocessed source if appropriate.
See for instructions.
lto-wrapper.exe: fatal error: C:\Program Files\WindowsApps\ArduinoLLC.ArduinoIDE_1.8.21.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-gcc returned 1 exit status
compilation terminated.
c:/program files/windowsapps/arduinollc.arduinoide_1.8.21.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/5.4.0/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: error: lto-wrapper failed
collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560.
```
# Answer
Running it as admin fixed the issue.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, ramps-1.4, arduino-mega-2650
---
|
thread-10760
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10760
|
Problems with Z-axis: Z-axis raised not enough at the beginning
|
2019-08-06T08:59:03.700
|
# Question
Title: Problems with Z-axis: Z-axis raised not enough at the beginning
My printer had some Z-axis issue. Here are the details:
When I was printing a model, the bottom of the model got bumpy edges(as shown in pic), and the height of the model was a little bit shorter(about 5% shorter).
I thought it might be caused by the Zsteppers/mm. But after I tweaked up the Zsterppers/mm, the problem remained. I realized that the extruder raised not enough at the beginning of the printing. So I print a small cube which hight is 2mm. And the following pic is the result:
Does anyone know what might cause this?
Thanks in advance.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Here are my problem and my solution. Hope this will help others.
As @R.. suggested, I checked my carriages and as well as z-axis guide wheels(I think it is called guide wheel). And I found that the guide wheels were too tight. I can't rotate them will my fingers. So I used a spanner to adjust the eccentric nuts until the guide wheels can be rotated by two fingers. Do not make the guide wheels too loose, it may cause shaking or other problem.
Since I don't know the exact name of each part. I marked them in the pics. If you know the correct name of the parts, welcome to correct me, I will edit it in my post.
Special thanks to R.. :P
Here are the pics:
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis
---
|
thread-10527
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10527
|
Ender 3 BLTouch first layer problems
|
2019-07-08T19:26:50.730
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 BLTouch first layer problems
I recently installed an original BLTouch V3 on my Ender 3 pro and ever since I can’t seem to get a decent print. My first layers are horrible.
The install wasn’t so bad, I really thought it would be plug and play thereafter.
I currently have:
* Version 1.1.4 board with non silent steppers
* Marlin 1.1.9 with bug fix as per the teaching tech video
* Printing on glass, bed @ 60 °C, extruder @ 200 °C
I have checked
* Bed is level.
* X gantry is squared/straight.
* Belts seem tight.
* Tried my best at getting the Z offset right.
* Checked E steps are correct.
* BLTouch seems to be working - not 100 % sure as it’s my first time using an auto level sensor.
---
<sub> More pictures here for those who can help. </sub>
---
I have reset the offset and still having difficulty I’m hoping the following pics would help. They bed level squares that prints squares on all four corners and the centre of the bed plate. If I raise the offset any higher I have difficulty with prints sticking. See here.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I manage to get the printer working, it was an hotend issue. Was clogged, replaced nozzle and working as expected.
Thank you all for the guidance!
# Answer
> 0 votes
So the weird ridges around each line look like a form of over-extrusion that happens when your nozzle is too close to the bed. The gaps on the other side may be areas that were so thin that they didn't survive removal from the bed, or just areas that the plastic couldn't reach because the nozzle was basically dragging. I don't personally have any experiences with touch sensors (yet! got an inductive probe I'll be installing soon) but I can only assume that you have the ability to set the probe's Z offset from the nozzle. If that is the case, try setting your Z offset such that the nozzle is further away from the bed after probing.
I'd suggest starting by raising the nozzle about 0.2 mm, and fine-tuning from there. If you continue to get the raised ridges adjacent to each printed line, keep raising the nozzle until you don't get them anymore. At some point you should actually get to a point where there's gaps between the lines because the nozzle is *too* far, and at that point you can start bumping the offset back down again to try and perfect that Z offset.
Alternately you could do what I do and print on a raft with a 50% density first layer, but I get the feeling if you're printing on glass you probably want to be able to just print on the glass.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If the image is showing a view of the bottom layer of the print, the most probable issue is that the nozzle is too far away from the bed when printing the first layer. This manifests itself as almost not flattening out the deposited filament lines, hence you can see through them. Also it might be a good idea to check if the extrusion process is giving you enough filament (it could be that you are under-extruding); a calibration of the extruder might help in this respect.
To lower the nozzle/decrease the nozzle to bed distance you can use the menu of the printer to set a smaller value. Also, G-code `M851` may be used to set a new (smaller) value (e.g. `M851 Z-1.23` when the sensor trigger point to the bed is 1.23 mm); don't forget to store the value to memory with `M500` (if enabled in firmware). Sending of G-codes to the machine can be done by "printing" the commands stored in a `.g` text file directly from the SD card, or using a so-called terminal interface that many 3D Printer software applications offer (e.g. OctoPrint, Pronterface as part of Printrun software suite, Repetier-Host, etc.).
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, bltouch
---
|
thread-10792
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10792
|
How can I become a certified Fusion 360 user?
|
2019-08-11T20:18:15.967
|
# Question
Title: How can I become a certified Fusion 360 user?
I heard about the certification program from autodesk website.
How can I prepare and write this certification exam as a student? I already started using fusion 360 about a month.
# Answer
Start with registering at their website and go from there. There is a PDF of a list of things you have to have mastery in:
> * SKETCHING
>
> + Sketch Creation
> + Create Dimensions
> + Constraint selection and creation
> + Edit a sketch
> + Project Edges
> + Edit a Sketch
> * DRAWING
>
> + Creating a Drawing View, Base, Projected, Section, Detail
> + Add Annotations
> + Editing a Created View
> + Edit Border and Titleblock
> * SCULPT
>
> + Create a Form
> + Edit a Form
> + Thicken a Form
> * DIRECT MODELING
>
> + Feature Deletion
> + Press & Pull Tool
> * ASSEMBLY MODELING
>
> + Create and Manage Top Level Assembly and Subassemblies
> + Create a Component From a Body
> + Align and Assembly Joints
> + Interference
> + Rigid Groups
> + Motion Studies
> * ADVANCED MODELING
>
> + Sweep and Loft
> + Boundary Fill
> + Split and Combine bodies
> * PART MODELING
>
> + Create extrude features
> + Apply Fillets and Chamfers
> + Create complex hole features
> + Create revolve features
> + Create a pattern of features
> + Create a shell feature
> + Create Construction Planes and Axes
> + Inspect command; measure, and section analysis
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, fusion360, autodesk
---
|
thread-6041
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6041
|
How can you both reliably print and remove your item, without breaking it when detaching it?
|
2018-05-26T22:41:12.177
|
# Question
Title: How can you both reliably print and remove your item, without breaking it when detaching it?
I have had problems with items sticking on the build plate, especially when they were big (as they didn't stick well, they corners warped -\> all kind of problems).
I also wanted to upgrade my printer (Scratch XYCore-Bowden) to have the ability to use flexible filament so first I modified my extruder motor/cog-wheel so it pushes the filament straight into the Bowden tube (classic modification).
This worked okay for small parts (as was the case with PLA).
The heat-bed seems to flex when heating in an uniform manner so it's not perfectly flat which means the Marlin 3-point test doesn't work out.
To alleviate this I added a borosilicate glass on top of the heat bed for perfect 'flatness', but the inductive sensor didn't reach through those extra 3 mm of the glass, so I bought another inductive sensor (old was 4 mm LJ12A3-4-Z/BY PNP with a voltage divider, new is 8 mm NPN) and this started to function somehow:
As the sensor doesn't sense the surface (or the glass at all), but senses the heatbed under, which isn't either flat nor stable according to temperature, I added aluminium tape under the glass pane. This actually works perfectly well!
Now I am able to tune in the first layer distance really well, but still the flex filament floats around on the glass so I added blue painters tape which makes it work, very very well!
All well for flex printing!
Switched to PLA (which always worked okay whatever some small errors in print height, and not too wide items) and I have all pieces sticking to the bed in a manner **I just cant get them off...**
They get big scratches from the pincers, get broken, etc.,...
I have tried:
* Pincers (works for some items, doesn't work for some. About always makes marks);
* Ripping off the blue painter tape (the tape was removed everywhere except where the item was stuck. Plus now I have to add new tape);
* Chuck the build plate in the freezer for an hour. It helps a lot but:
1. Still not easy to remove without making marks;
2. It's a serious hassle;
3. It's also a time waster.
**My question is:** How can you both reliably print and remove your item without breaking it?
Little image of the last part that I broke (the square impact in the middle is after ripping of the "hook" from this hanger when I tried to detach it from the heat bed), as it didn't work at all I had to put it in the freezer for an hour or so to be able to remove the rest:
# Answer
If your print is sticking too well, try printing directly onto the glass.
If then, your print isn't sticking well enough, try using something like a glue stick instead. Most people use a paint scraper (a small one, like this) to remove prints from build surfaces.
> 5 votes
# Answer
If you're ever in doubt regardless of what project you're working on... **Tooth Floss.** You need the good old-fashioned braided kind, none of the new "Pro Glide" elastic stuff. Pull a piece taut and just start sawing back & forth against the bottom layer in different areas (corners work best)... and you'll be on your way in very little time.
> 5 votes
# Answer
A bit of rubbing alcohol dripped on the print edges may help, especially if the print is still warm. Wait about 30 seconds and then gently pry up using knife-edge tool. If this technique works for you, dilute alcohol in a spray bottle or just buy a window cleaner. If you are designing models, minimize base area and always use a base layer fillet of about 0.5mm-1.0mm to permit knife-edge access.
> 4 votes
# Answer
First if you print directly to the glass with a glue stick, over time there will be enough oil build up that you will not have this issue.
Following, if the change in heat temp on a bare glass is not enough to pop it off, I personally use a thin strong blade, specifically a leather cutting blade. Note this blade will through mats with ease. That said that blade is made to cut leather, your thumb is easier to slice by a lot.
Last if you cannot do these, then simply print a few raft layers and don't worry about damaging at the removal point.
> 3 votes
# Answer
For PLA, I usually use hairspay directly on the glass, it keeps the object attached but is not at all a strong glue, sometimes I facilitate the part removal washing it under flowing water.
As OyaMist wrote, a small fillet in the perimeter helps because you actually want to push your object perpendicularly to the bed, and therefore you need to have some grasp point for the blade.
If this is not available and/or when an object is really impossible to remove otherwise, I use this technique:
* Remove the glass with the object still attached;
* Find a robust piece of furniture with a flat top and a (smooth) vertical wall;
* Put the glass as high as possible but still pushed against the vertical wall; (the object must be on the furniture-side of the glass)
* Move down the glass, a quite fast but still controllable movement.
* The object is supposed to hit the furniture's flat top while the glass is sliding on the vertical wall.
* The object will receive an impact, not a force, from the side.
Since this is more an impact than an applied force, the adhesion layer can't resist as a whole surface, but only the surface near the hit point can actually do something. That's the same concept of fixing a nail into wood, if you can only push you'll need a lot of force or -that's why we use hammers- you can just apply some relatively small hits. In fact, I usually see (maybe after few movements) that the object start to detach in some spots, then I can proceed with the paint scraper or I can just continue this way.
Be careful not to drop the glass, of course. :)
> 2 votes
# Answer
Technology has come to the rescue here. New printing surfaces are available that release PLA very easily. I am using the WhamBam system. A magnet is stuck to the AL bed. A flex steel sheet is placed on the magnet. The flexsteel has a PEX sheet stuck to it.
After levelling the bed, a print is done normally. When done, the flex steel sheet is lifted off the magnet. After cooling a minute or two, give the steel a little flex across the two sides, and the piece pops right off.
I've posted a video at this Stack Exchange topic
Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?
> 0 votes
---
Tags: post-processing
---
|
thread-10781
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10781
|
Bigtreetech upload stalled after uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
|
2019-08-10T10:13:09.850
|
# Question
Title: Bigtreetech upload stalled after uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
I recently bought a BigTreeTech SKR V1.3 and uncommented `REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER` and clicked the upload button but faced an error that says:
```
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: error: 'touch_buttons' was not declared in this scope
if (touch_buttons) {
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: note: suggested alternative: 'buttons'
if (touch_buttons) {
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
buttons
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:805:5: error: 'else' without a previous 'if'
else wait_for_unclick = false;
^~~~
*** [.pio\build\LPC1768\src\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp.o] Error 1
```
I am not sure what above message means, but can anyone else shed some light on why I am receiving these errors?
FWIW, I am using Marlin 2.
# Answer
There is a temporary solution which I have found here, on the reprap forums, Re: Upload to the board failed after LCD enabled:
> An official fix has been posted. Grab the new ultralcd.cpp from \[github.com\]
Apparently the sources contained a bug which was fixed later, a new version download fixed the problem.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Marlin 2.0.0 is in an ***Alpha*** state. 'Alpha' is a state before *Beta*, meaning, it's not hot off the presses, it isn't even *off the presses*. You need to go back to the most recent "stable" version of Marlin, which is 1.1.9 (found on the same page as the link above). This should *most likely* solve the errors and problems you're seeing.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Marlin 2.0 is still very much in development.
If you face issues like this and you're certain you haven't introduced any typos, try downloading the most current version of Marlin again (Github -\> Download -\> Download zip). Copy in your configuration files and try to compile.
If the issue persists, you may try to use a version from a few days / weeks ago. For this, select a previous commit from this list, and press the `<>` button to activate it.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, skr-v1.3, full-graphic-smart-controller, bigtreetech
---
|
thread-10798
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10798
|
Printer head too low when printing
|
2019-08-12T12:03:33.250
|
# Question
Title: Printer head too low when printing
## Problem
My CR-10 printer seems to be trying to print the model 4 or 5 layers too low. This means that for the first few layers, the printing nozzle is forced against the bed, preventing extrusion until the print reaches higher layers.
## Outcome
This results in the bottom part of the print having the internal structure visible and the printing head deteriorating. I had to remove the old nozzle because it was clogged up with what I believe to be some residue that was picked up during preceding prints.
*note: On this print, the top part is almost-well printed. It cannot be seen in pictures, but I say "almost" because the well-printed part is still much thinner than expected. This is the result of my purposeful mis-leveling the bed so that the part where the printer "homes" is higher than the lower part. I did this to see if there was any obvious bending of the printing bed. Doesn't look like there is.*
## Fix attempts
* I have tried to re-level the bed multiple times, but it doesn't matter as the "too low" effect is independent from the location on the bed.
* I have tried using the printer's built-in Z-offset but to no avail. This might be due to the fact that I control the print through Ultimaker Cura 4, so I tried looking for the Z-offset property in Ultimaker Cura and even though internet says it exists, I failed to find it.
## History
The printer used to work perfectly well and I do not remember having changed anything before the problem arose. I recently changed the nozzle and made sure to tighten it as high as possible but the Z-offset problem still persists.
# Answer
TLDR; Make sure the bed isn't too high, the z-axis should reach the end-of-rail indicator without forcing against the bed
---
So it appears I simply misunderstood (or mis-assumed) the way my printer works.
For some reason I believed that it was the printing head, while auto-homeing, that was defining the "point zero" for the z axis. Didn't realize, even after disassembled the whole head block, that there was no such mechanism built in.
While zeroing it before starting my on-going print I noticed the "click" of the end-of-rail switch for the z-axis while the head was forcing against the bed, desperately trying to reach that damn switch. Then it all clicked together ...
## What happened:
For some reason a few weeks ago I decided to level the bed by raising the z-axis by spinning the its driving wheel *by hand*, taking it very far from the end-of-rail stopper. Ever since then I've been leveling the bed this way, not realizing I was preventing the head from reaching end-of-rail without having to force against the bed.
So yeah, just took the bed as far down as possible, made the printer auto-home and leveled the bed from there, as it should be done, and my print is now going very well.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Did you verify the Cura z-offset actually changed the corresponding G-Codes?
I had the opposite problem on my RF1000. To fix the problem I added the following 2 lines to my start G-Codes:
```
M3001 ; Activate Z-Compensation
M206 Z-0.3 ; Set z offset 0.3mm closer to the nozzle
```
The first line was default in some example prints and is (as far as I know) only used by Renkforce printers. The second line moves the nozzle closer to the bed. In your case you'd have to move it further away and would need a positive Z value.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: z-axis, creality-cr-10
---
|
thread-6046
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6046
|
How can I create PNG image files from STL files?
|
2018-05-28T04:36:45.853
|
# Question
Title: How can I create PNG image files from STL files?
I need to add some simple image renders of STL files to a document. I currently open the STL files in Preview or one of the slicers and grab a screen shot.
Is there an easier or automatic way to generate PNG images from STL files on a Mac?
# Answer
If you have OpenSCAD installed, this shell script will generate 100x100 pixel PNG images for each STL file in your current directory.
```
for i in *.stl; do
T=__tmp__$i
b=`basename $i`
echo import\(\"$i\"\)\; >$T
/Applications/OpenSCAD.app/Contents/MacOS/OpenSCAD -o $b.png --imgsize=100,100 $T
rm $T
done
```
Credit to 0scar for pointing out STL files can be imported into OpenSCAD.
Update: This code does the same, and generates an html file with annotated images of the files rendered. When I printed a batch of spare parts for my 3D printer I made a hardcopy and stuck it in the box so I could identify the parts later.
```
n=-1
H=00-catalog.html
echo >$H '<table>'
echo >>$H ' <tr>'
for i in $*; do
n=`expr $n + 1`
if test $n = 4; then
n=0
echo >>$H ' </tr>'
echo >>$H ' <tr>'
fi
echo $i
T=__tmp__$i
B=`basename $i .stl`
echo import\(\"$i\"\)\; >$T
/Applications/OpenSCAD.app//Contents/MacOS/OpenSCAD -o $B.png --imgsize=200,200 $T
echo >>$H
echo >>$H ' <td>'$i'<br><img src="'$B'.png"></td>'
rm $T
done
echo >>$H ' </tr>'
echo >>$H '</table>'
```
> 12 votes
# Answer
Typically you would install a (free) 3D model program as Fusion 360, FreeCAD, or many more options to choose from. Once installed, import the STL file and use menu options to export a picture of your STL.
Alternatively, if you have some programming skills, you could import the STL file in OpenSCAD and render and export a picture from there. Simply create an OpenSCAD file with the code line below and it will import your `example.stl`.
```
import("example.stl", convexity=10);
```
Through the menu you can then export the view to an image. Note that you can do that also from the command line as shown by the OP's own answer (nice example of command line usage of OpenSCAD).
These are not the only options, there are many more. E.g. this is a nice example. It also describes how Thingiverse.com does STL to web image.
> 4 votes
# Answer
If you don't mind using screen grabs, you could use AppleScript or whatever it's called in the latest MacOS versions to build an automated script to open each file, grab screen, save, etc.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You can use OpenSCAD, as stated in the accepted answer. Here is a version of that script that works for Windows for anyone who needs it, as I did.
```
# Change height and width to the desired output image dimensions, in pixels.
# The path to openscad.exe may also have to be adjusted based on your installation.
height=1080
width=1080
for i in *.stl; do
T=__tmp__$i
b=`basename "$i"`
echo import\(\"./$i\"\)\; > "$T"
C:/'Program Files'/OpenSCAD/openscad.exe -o "$b".png --autocenter --viewall --imgsize=$width,$height "$T"
rm "$T"
done
```
> 1 votes
---
Tags: slicing, stl
---
|
thread-10779
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10779
|
Why do my prints have such a rough surface? (Taz Lulzbot Pro)
|
2019-08-09T18:16:01.157
|
# Question
Title: Why do my prints have such a rough surface? (Taz Lulzbot Pro)
Model: Taz Lulzbot Pro
Things we tried to get it to work:
1. Tried both ABS and PLA Hatchbox brand
2. Uploaded new set of settings from another printer of the same brand that works using the hatchbox.
3. Tried using Polylite PLA with Ultimaker Cura Lulzbot edition settings
The printer managed to print, but the samples printed were of very poor quality and are filled with ridges and has an uneven surface (I've attached a picture below). The printer automatically cancels the print and quits printing on layer three because the nozzle rubs against these ridges and cannot print properly.
What are settings that may lead to this issue? What is a good place to start trying to improve my results?
# Answer
> 1 votes
This looks like Z axis offset is set incorrectly. That *should* come with an appropriate setting from the factory (for my printer it's -.85mm), but that setting can get lost a few ways; you can either reenter the factory setting (if your print head hasn't been opened up), or recalibrate -- but if doing the latter, *be sure the nozzle is clean*, or the calibration routine can *cause* the problem you're trying to solve!
---
### If You've Never Reassembled Your Toolhead
**Check that the settings from the QA record are still installed.**
Your printer came with a sheet of paper including all the measurements that were taken when the calibration prints that came with it were created. If you updated firmware with several versions of Cura LE between the Pro's release and the fix for the relevant bug, the update would have cleared the EEPROM with those settings. A good place to start is to put them back in.
The full set of settings isn't just Z axis offset, but also offset between the two heads, and backlash measurements -- but if you lost Z axis offset, you're likely to have lost all of them, so it's worth going over the full set.
---
### If You Have Reassembled Your Toolhead
**Clean the nozzle, and rerun automatic calibration.**
"Clean the nozzle", that is, by bringing it up to temperature and using the brillo pad that came in the little toolkit with the printer.
When I say "automatic calibration", I'm not referring to the leveling routine that runs with every print, but the longer routine that's accessed under "Measure automatically" button in the backlash or nozzle offset "Advanced Settings" LCD menu.
The automatic calibration routines determine when the head is in contact with the calibration cube via electrical conductivity. If there's anything on the head that can stop a circuit from being created the moment it touches the cube, that's going to throw off the calculated locations.
(BTW, if your printer doesn't warn you on the LCD display that the head should be clean and unloaded when running this operation, you're probably on old firmware; update Cura LE, and let it upload new firmware for you).
The test print at https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/TAZ\_Pro/v1.0.3/sample\_prints/calibration/vernier\_dim-test.gcode (which is perhaps more compact than the one that came with your printer, if you got one of the very first units off the assembly line) pairs with the instructions/documentation in steps 15-19 at https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/calibration-taz-pro/quiver/. That said, the Z-axis measurements are mostly pertinent for the very beginning of step 15, measuring the height of the skirt around the print before it starts. (You'll want to either pause or cancel the print to remove the skirt for measurement in your calipers; the sample gcode delay isn't long enough to do it carefully otherwise!).
---
### And Don't Be Afraid To Call Support
Customer service from folks who know their stuff and are around evenings and weekends are part of what you're paying for when you buy a Lulzbot. The above is taken from my experience diagnosing quality issues on a TAZ Pro, but support knows what they're doing much better than I do; don't be shy about taking advantage!
---
Tags: print-quality, 3d-models, lulzbot
---
|
thread-10786
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10786
|
RAMPS 1.4 Stepper's not getting a good signal
|
2019-08-11T11:57:41.727
|
# Question
Title: RAMPS 1.4 Stepper's not getting a good signal
Running on the Marlin 1.1 firmware, for this issue, most other variables of the printer can just be assumed (It's a CoreXY design, but think i3 for my current testing). (Highlighted my only lead in bold, so probably best to read that first)
The problem: X-axis stepper driver and motor moves fine, all other axis's don't.
What I've tried and deduced.
1. I've inverted all endstops and ruled out end stop errors, as well as any warnings that get reported through serial.
2. Swapped stepper drivers from the Y axis (just focusing on the Y axis for now) to the X axis, the X axis is still the only one that moves.
3. Swapped the X and Y axis motors: only the Y axis motor works, so still only getting powered from the X axis driver
4. Tested power on the stepper drivers, all stepper drivers get the same motor and logic power within margin of error
5. Tested step signal on the Y axis with an oscilloscope, found my only lead, **when moving the X-axis, the step control has a peak voltage of ~5.2v and the motor moves. When testing the Y axis, the step input voltage from the Arduino to the driver has a peak of ~1.7v**
6. Assuming something may be wrong with the connection, I tested the resistance between all step pins from the Arduino side to the stepper driver itself and got a constant resistance of 2.5 ohms for all drivers, pins are connected properly.
7. Pulled the Arduino out, uploaded and ran a custom servo script on it, using pin A6 as the PWM control signal. Server runs fine with the correct voltage (ruled out a microcontroller issue).
8. Reassembled the RAMPS, motors etc, reuploaded a fresh copy of Marlin from their site that I configured from scratch and did some extra probing around to make sure all the connects are fine, still, only the X-axis works.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Turns out there were multiple faulty stepper drivers, if the one stepper driver was plugged in, it would operate, but would draw too much current from the pins on the Arduino causing all the other drivers to receive weak signals.
This is why swapping them around still only worked on the X-axis, if it was only one driver, I would have figured it out.
So if you get a very weak signal on the stepper driver step pin, even when it's pulled out, it's probably because of one of the other stepper drivers shorting the whole rail.
---
Tags: marlin, ramps-1.4, stepper-driver
---
|
thread-198
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/198
|
Tips for not burning out my Arduino Mega or catching something on fire when wiring a Prusa i3?
|
2016-01-13T16:47:37.063
|
# Question
Title: Tips for not burning out my Arduino Mega or catching something on fire when wiring a Prusa i3?
I'm reading about wiring up the electronic components to my Prusa i3 using an Arduino Mega 2650 and Ramps 1.4.
I have step sticks, a heated bed, and a Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w (more details on that later when I can add which ones to the post).
I've heard that if you wire it wrong and plug it in, you can do anything from starting a fire to burning out your boards.
What are some tips of things to check before plugging it in? Are there any common mistakes that I can avoid?
# Answer
> 11 votes
* Polarity matters, sometimes. Be especially mindful of the wires from your power supply to the board, as getting those the wrong way around will definitely cause damage. Heated beds and extruders are not polarity sensitive, and can go in either way. Fans are polarized, but will probably survive if you get them backwards - they just won't run. Stepper motors don't care about polarity, flipping the connector around just makes them run backwards.
* Take special care with endstops. The endstop connectors have 3 pins (VCC, 5V and signal), endstops with 2 pins are usually connect to GND and signal. Putting a 2-pin endstop across 5V and GND will destroy the 5V regulator.
* A common cause of damage is wires not being clamped in their respective terminals properly. The offending wire will arc, melting and destroying the connector. Tighten down screw terminals properly, use proper crimps if you have them. Soldering the ends of wires going into screw terminals is not encouraged, but if you do solder the ends then make sure to check after a while and tighten the screws again.
* Put the stepper drivers in the right way around.
* For things like the heated bed and wires going to your power supply, use sufficiently thick wires. Especially with the heated bed, a lot of current flows through the wires and flimsy wires will heat up and melt.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I'd say polarity and voltage are the biggest things -- about all you can do is double- and triple-check everything; then check again....
Be very careful about where you feed in 12V power (mainly for heaters and fans), vs. 5v (for the Arduino).
In many cases I found it unclear which way +/- went going *out* from the board (the *inputs* on my boards were at least marked clearly!). I found that if I plug in a limit switch connector backwards, that connects 5v straight to ground, which will probably make your power supply cut out (assuming it's properly protected -- otherwise it could potentially catch fire). Stepper motors, on the other hand, just run the wrong direction if you plug them onto RAMPS backwards (good design!).
Another thing to watch for only comes up if you're powering the Arduino via USB (I do that a lot, since I'm plugged in anyway to send files and such). A short can try to draw too much power from USB. In that case my Mac shuts down USB and gives a message; I don't know what would happen with other hardware.
I have heard that plugging a stepper-driver board onto RAMPS backwards is likely to fry a board, and that plugging or unplugging a stepper motor while powered is also risky. But I haven't messed those up yet, so I don't now for sure. :)
I may be overly cautious, but I never leave the power supply plugged in when I'm not around.
Best wishes!
Steve
# Answer
> 0 votes
Adding to the other answers:
* ALWAYS power-off the printer completely and make sure it is not receiving any power from any source (could be receiving power from USB after you turned the power supply off).
* Avoid loose wires, and before powering the printer on make sure every wire is connected in the right place. Loose wires can cause damage even if not powered if they get under the PCBs, where they can cause shorts. I fried an Arduino Mega this way.
* Never mix between 12v and 5v supply/output wires. Connecting an output wire of the wrong voltage will usually cause damage only to the part receiving power, while connecting a supply wire of the wrong voltage can cause severe damage to many components at once.
* Keep all wires organised. That will help you understand which wire is connected to what quickly, and will help you do what is mentioned in #2 and #3.
---
Tags: reprap, prusa-i3, ramps-1.4, arduino-mega-2650
---
|
thread-6355
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6355
|
Writing G-code : swiping at start of print
|
2018-07-10T09:38:45.590
|
# Question
Title: Writing G-code : swiping at start of print
Ok, I did it, I ordered myself an Ender-3, a genuine 24V e3D hotend, inductive sensor and some better tubing/clamps to cope with the problem the CR10/Ender line has occasionally.
But now I need to fix up my Cura for the machine coming in. The start is the CR10, and fixing the dimensions is easy.
But now comes the tricky part: Start and End G-code. For my TronXY I never bothered with changing it away from the "basic" settings that a "custom 3D printer" on Marlin gave, but this time I want to know what I type in there. The basic code, after I dragged out the G-code handbook from the RepRap wiki to add the missing comments is:
```
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 F200 E3 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
```
The RepRap Wiki suggests that there could be made so much more from this.
I would love to *swipe* the nozzle before starting to print, making sure that the curled up filament from this first extrusion doesn't get squished against the nozzle and make a bad first layer.
**How does an example (commented) G-code for swiping the nozzle look like?**
# Answer
## The lazy way: Skirt/Brim
With my TronXY X1 I learned pretty fast, that this first bit of extrusion on an unheated bed can totally mess up the first layer by being just in the way, as explained in the question.
To some degree, this behavior can be avoided by adding a skirt of a certain length. An equally good alternative that also increases bed adhesion for tricky parts is the brim. Both are not set via G-code but can be added by the slicer. In Ultimaker Cura both are found in the tab Build Plate Adhesion as type, as the following pictures show:
### Skirt: 2 lines, minimum length 250mm
### Brim: minimum length 250mm, 8mm width
## The Prusa Priming-line
Angus/MakersMuse introduced me to the Prusa Priming Line in one of his tutorial videos. For his Wanhao he used (for the video) just this start G-code script:
```
G28
G1 Y-3 F500 ; Move out of print volume
G1 X60 E9 F500 ; start purge line
G1 X100 E12.5 F500 ; finish purge line
```
This resulted in a nice line like this:
In Ultimaker Cura, this piece of code is added via the preferences of a machine. In Cura 3, you usually had to add the starting G-code yourself. Since at least version 4.2.1, all preset machines contain some variant of a priming line, usually at the left side.
> 9 votes
# Answer
## What code we have so far
The code already made by Ultimaker Cura 3 (and then commented on) can be explained a little more:
`G28 ;Home`
*This homes your machine to hit end stop positions, from now on your printer knows the coordinates of the print volume. This place it knows as \<0-0-0\> - check where that is: above the print surface or next to it!<br>* `G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast`
*Instruct the build plate to move down, or in your case lift the head up 15 mm at 6000 mm/min<br>* `;Prime the extruder`
*This is a comment that the nex code will deal with priming the nozzle<br>* `G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance`
*G92 sets the position of the extruder by resetting the current position to the specified value of zero<br>* `G1 F200 E3 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock`
*This will extrude 3 mm of filament at a feedrate of 200 mm/min<br>* `G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance`
*This will reset the extruder length again to zero<br>*
## Result of the code
Basically you will have some filament dangling on your nozzle now, or falling of as the nozzle is hot creating a fine string. You now are facing the possibility that the primed material will be dragged along the build plate to the start of the print.
## Nozzle Preparation: Priming sequences
### Ultimaker 3: 'blob'&swipe
An alternative I really like is the priming sequence of the Ultimaker 3. The hot end is instructed near the origin of the printer at about a height of 2 mm above the build plate when it starts to extrude plastic, once the extruded plastic becomes a puddle of about 6 mm in diameter the build plate lowers a few mm's and keep extruding for a bit. It then moves in positive Y direction (to the back) and raises the platform (this is the swipe action), then retracts and starts to move to the print start. Now the puddle of filament stays near the origin and will not be dragged.
You can easily make a similar schematic for your printer, I've done so also for various printers. Try and experiment what works best for you. The swipe action is the movement where the nozzle will be instructed to move near the build plate while moving in a certain direction (Y or X), a height of a few tenths is enough to swipe.
I don't have my exact profile here, but you could add (skipping feedrates):
```
G1 Y15 Z0.2 ; moves the nozzle backwards and down from 15 mm to 0.2 mm
G1 Y20 Z0.2 ; swipes the nozzle, this should cut off the "worm"
G1 Z1 ; raise for movement to start of print to add a little space to travel
```
> 6 votes
# Answer
## Blob & Cut
A different approach is to move to a position out off the print bed, then extrude a long piece of filament and then move forward, cutting the filament at the edge of the print surface. A sample G-code that needs to be adjusted to your bed:
```
G28
G1 Y-5 X5 Z0.1 F500 ; Move off the print surface, a bit above the 0
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 F200 E10 ; extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 Y2 F500 ; Move into the print platform
```
> 3 votes
# Answer
This is my code:
START CODE:
```
M117 Preparing.... ; Nozzle clean message
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temp
M107 ; Turn layer fan off
G21 ; Metric
G28 ; Home X/Y/Z axis
G0 X0 Y0 Z20 F9000 ; Move up 20mm for heating
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set extruder temp
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temp
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for extruder temp
G92 E0 ; Zero extruder
G28 ; Home X/Y/Z axis
G0 X1 Z0.1 F9000 ; Move up 0.1mm
G0 Y10 F500 ; Move 10mm to get rid of material
G0 Z1 F9000 ; Move up
G0 Y110 F9000 ; Move to line start
G0 Z0.2 F9000 ; Move down
G1 Y20 E25 F500 ; Extrude 25mm filament over 90mm Y axis
G1 Y10 F500 ; Move 10mm without extracting
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder
G1 E-7 F1400 ; Retract 7mm filament
M117 Printing.... ; Printing message
```
END CODE:
```
G91 ; Incremental coordinates
G1 E-3 F1800 ; Retract
G1 Z10 F9000 ; Move up
G90 ; Absolute cooridinates
M106 S0 ; Turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; Turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; Turn off bed
G1 X0 Y220 F9000 ; Move back
M84 ; Disable motors
M117 Finished!. ; Printing message
```
It's almost working perfectly. I can start prints without checking if the first layer is good (requires a leveled bed).
I am open for improvements
> 3 votes
# Answer
I've experimented a lot with priming/swiping in the G-code prologue, as a result of realizing from this question and answer how important it is to get it right. The key points are:
* Don't go back and forth; you risk picking back up material you already got rid of. Just swipe in one direction.
* Don't overextrude. This can lead to ending with pressure remaining (especially for printers with bowden extruders) after the swipe/prime line is finished. It's fine if your extrusion rate is so low that adhesion doesn't start til halfway down the line.
* Slow movement with fan on is good.
And with that said, here's what I use with my Ender 3:
```
M106 ; Max fan to discourage ooze sticking to nozzle
G28 ; Home all axes
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F750.0 E18 ; Draw priming line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching
```
I also undo all but 1mm of the filament retraction at the end of my epilogue (custom end) G-code, to leave the printer in a state comparable to having freshly loaded filament. If you don't undo the retraction here, the low extrusion rate in the prologue might not be enough to prime the next time you print, but increasing it would over-prime in the case where you're dealing with freshly loaded filament.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code
---
|
thread-10268
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10268
|
Slow down first layer above infill in Ultimaker Cura
|
2019-06-14T15:04:46.830
|
# Question
Title: Slow down first layer above infill in Ultimaker Cura
In Ultimaker Cura, is there a setting to slow down just the first layer (or two layers) covering over the infill?
I'm not talking about the top layers, since you may have infill covered over during a lower section of the print. And I'm not talking about bridging, since this isn't a true bridge, and quick testing shows the bridge settings don't seem to control this. I'm also not talking about the whole layer, since you may have just a section of a layer involved with covering the infill.
What I want, is, whenever a print transitions from infill back to shell, that first section of shell above the infill (and maybe also the next layer going the opposite direction) should be slower.
What I've observed is this layer prints at the same speed as other shell sections, which can be too fast at this point for complete coverage, leaving a stringy section. This won't be visible later, but it does matter for strength and potentially quality; if expected filament isn't deposited it has to end up somewhere. Slowing down should help get a cleaner layer.
Can Ultimaker Cura do this? I don't care which version. For completeness, what about other slicers? Even if I normally use Cura, I might be tempted to use a different slicer that can do this if I have a part where it really matters.
# Answer
Cura can do this. It's a bit convoluted though. Here's what you need to do:
* Load your model / scene in the build plate.
* Load an additional cube and make it as big as the entire build plate so that it overlaps with everything (in the preferences you may need to disable "Ensure that models are kept apart).
* Select the cube and go to the per-object settings tool.
* Change the cube's mesh type to "modify settings for infill".
* For the cube, set Wall Line Count to 0, Top/Bottom Thickness to 0 and Top Layers to 1. This effectively makes the cube add one additional layer on the top side of all infill volumes.
* For the cube, set the Top/Bottom Speed to your desired speed for the one slower layer.
* (Optional) In the normal settings panel on the right, set the number of top layers to be one less, so that you get the same number of top layers again.
> 1 votes
# Answer
As far as I know, Cura has no option to do this. Conceptually Cura treats the model as a solid, so that the material over infill is not "overhang". However, you may be able to hack it by using the "magic mesh surface mode" feature under "special modes", to treat the model as a surface rather than a solid, then enable support and use the same model as a mask for where support material should be printed, and print support as infill-only. Alternatively you might just print a second copy of the model as infill-only (0 walls and 0 layers of top/bottom skin) in the same location.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, infill
---
|
thread-10789
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10789
|
Can I use a 12 V single channel optocoupler module in a 24 V machine?
|
2019-08-11T16:27:31.797
|
# Question
Title: Can I use a 12 V single channel optocoupler module in a 24 V machine?
I have a Tevo Tornado Gold 24 V. I want to use this LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4 mm with 6-36 V operation current as a Z probe. I do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24 V into the sensor input.
What do I have is a 12 V, single channel optocoupler isolation module.
I want to know if this 12 V optocoupler module can be used with a 24 V power supply, or do I need another module in order to prevent me frying my sensor.
If I do need another what would I need?
# Answer
> 2 votes
**You can safely use the module with 24V.**
The input side shows a red LED, optocoupler and 1k resistor in series. The LED and optocoupler probably have a voltage drop in the neighbourhood of 3.1-3.5 V put together, so for a 12 V input you will get a current of approximately 9 mA-.
For a 24 V input voltage the increased current will cause a slightly higher voltage drop, but even if the voltage drop remains as low as 3.1 V the current will still only be 21 mA. This is well within the rating of the optocoupler (similar optocouplers are often rated for 60 mA) and slightly pushing the rating of the LED (similar LEDs are usually rated for 20 mA) but it will probably be fine.
For extra peace of mind you could connect an additional resistor in series with the input. The "ideal" value (that is, to keep the current identical to that at 12 V) would be 1.3 kΩ, though any small value resistor (above 100 Ω) would be fine.
# Answer
> 0 votes
## Not using a 12 V rated module *"on its own"*.
Using a 12 V/5 V optocoupler to try to connect 24 V to the 5 V circuit is running the optocoupler outside of its rating, meaning you will destroy it, either immediately or after a short time.
## A properly rated one
To shield the 5 V against the maximal 24 V from the probe without extra parts, you will need to use a 24 V/5 V optocoupler.
### Trickery with voltage dividers
With a 50 % voltage divider made from two properly rated resistors, you could limit the voltage to the optocoupler, which in turn would turn the 24 V signal into a 12 V signal, which would protect our optocoupler and the board beyond.
---
Tags: z-probe, inductive-sensor, tevo-tornado
---
|
thread-10799
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10799
|
Raised shell edges on ocarina print. RF1000 sliced with Cura Engine
|
2019-08-12T18:03:16.770
|
# Question
Title: Raised shell edges on ocarina print. RF1000 sliced with Cura Engine
I am trying to print a 12 hole Ocarina I found on thingiverse. When printing I have to stop it around 25-30 layers because the edge of the shell is higher then the infill.
G-Code of first 30 layers
I tried changing the infill, wall size, speed and retraction settings to no avail. The settings of the example print were:
* 100% infill
* 0.2mm layer height
* 40mm printing speed (average)
* 1mm shell thickness (results in 2 layers)
* Automatic infill patern
* Printed at 210C with 3mm PLA (like this one)
* Printed on a RF1000
* Sliced with CuraEngine in Repetier-host V2.1.6.
Does anyone know what might cause this and how I can prevent it from happening?
Any help is greatly appreciated! :)
# Answer
I think the solution in your self-answer is just a partial mitigation for an underlying problem, and your expectations for output quality are way too low.
From the pictures in the question, there's serious overextrusion and stringing going on. The stringing could be caused by a secondary problem (bad/insufficient retraction settings), but heavy overextrusion will cause there to be extreme residual pressure left between the extruder gear and the nozzle (especially in a bowden setup, though it's not clear what printer you're using or if it has a bowden tube) that retraction will be unlikely to sufficiently relieve, so it's also a characteristic consequence of overextrusion.
As Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 noted in a comment, having the filament diameter set to 1.75 mm while your printer actually uses 3 mm filament could cause this. Cura (especially CuraEngine invoked via command line rather than the GUI) is particularly bad about getting this wrong if you don't pass the options in exactly the right way.
Note that lowering the infill percentage as you did would help get *somewhat* decent results with serious overextrusion, since the excess material has somewhere to go (into the unfilled part of the infill region). But you'll still be getting really bad (what I would call unacceptably bad) prints compared to what you could/should get.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Managed to solve it by lowering the temperature to 190C. I also lowered the infill down to 25%. Thanks for the advice!
I posted the make with results and settings on thingiverse.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, pla, g-code
---
|
thread-10803
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10803
|
How do PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS and/or nylon work together in a single print?
|
2019-08-14T03:38:27.310
|
# Question
Title: How do PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS and/or nylon work together in a single print?
I have a dual-extruder printer with a separate heating element for each head, thus able to combine materials in a single print job even if they don't share a single temperature range.
Now the question: When (outside of using expensive dedicated support material or doing multicolor prints for aesthetic reasons) is this actually useful?
Of common printable filaments (PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, nylon):
* Do some of these materials work well (which is to say, substantially better than just doing a single-material print with same-material supports) as breakaway supports for others?
* Can some of these materials be dissolved in household solvents that don't harm others?
* Do some of these materials adhere to each other strongly enough (and have sufficiently similar profiles in how they shrink on cooling) to reliably generate finished pieces comprising of both? (Especially relevant for anything+TPU, where one might want to generate a design with some soft or rubbery components).
# Answer
> 4 votes
The answers are
1. yes
2. yes
3. probably
Which is to say, if you only want to use MaterialNumberTwo for disposable supports, then you should be fine. Presumably the slicer software is material-aware and adjusts the feed so the layer heights are the same for both materials. **BUT**be careful that the support material isn't higher-temp than the object material, or supports which start from the object rather than the bed may cause local melting or distortion when the first layer is deposited on the cooler-melt material.
But if you want to try to intertwine two materials for the final product, then certainly bonding will be a major risk, as will shrinkage during cooling (not to mention the risk of melting the lower-temp material while depositing the higher-temp material on top of it!). If at all possible I'd recommend printing such parts separately and fitting them together post-print.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have printed ABS on top of PLA and it has bonded well. It was simple, then "campaign"-style buttons with Prusament Galaxy Black on the bottom and HatchBox white ABS on top. There was no tendency to warp, as I would expect if the ABS were shrinking more than the PLA.
I expected this to not work, but I needed white on black and these were the filaments I had.
---
Tags: filament, multi-material
---
|
thread-4329
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4329
|
print quality: z wobble issue
|
2017-07-02T14:39:53.450
|
# Question
Title: print quality: z wobble issue
Yesterday i replaced the z axis of my diy printer. Now i have some strange waves on the side of my prints. Are the threaded rods bent or could that be a vibration issue? Or is the coupler too stiff?
# Answer
> 2 votes
This looks as if there is a side-to-side force being generated as Z is changed. Ideally, the X or Y position is determined by the smooth rods, which should bear any force, not the threaded rod. The threaded rod should cause no motion except upward and downward.
If the rod is bent, but the rod is lightly constrained, then the top, being the free end, will draw a circle. The bottom is constrained by the motor. The middle is constrained by the nut, so the top would wander. If the threaded rod is perfectly straight, and the stepper motor axis and the nut are perfectly aligned, the top would spin without movement.
If the rod is bent and the nut is very tight, there may be a twisting force exerted by the nut, which could cause movement.
Everything is a tradeoff between tightness and looseness, between precision components and the reality of alignment errors.
You asked if the shaft coupling is too tight. Maybe. Try removing everything except the motor, coupling, and the threaded rod. Does the rod fall exactly where the nut would be? If not, it isn't aligned correctly. Incorrect alignment can be mitigated by a flexible coupling. It looks like you are using a Lovejoy coupling with a plaster spider. Depending on how tightly the spider fits, a Lovejoy coupling can be tight or loose. I see a lot of machines with the one-piece coupling and a spiral-cut joining region. THis might be a good alternative, but they tend to take up more space than a lovejoy coupling.
Because Z-axis motion is pretty slow, it is unlikely to be a z-axis vibration issue. You may have changed the resonant frequencies enough to cause some other problem, but I don't think it is related to the problem in the photograph.
# Answer
> 0 votes
It is possible that your selected layer height isn't compatible with the pitch of your leadscrew. I believe the reprap website has a layer height calculator based on the pitch of your lead screw. Just another option.
---
Tags: print-quality, diy-3d-printer, z-axis
---
|
thread-10209
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10209
|
Wanhao i3 stops printing after about 40 minutes
|
2019-06-08T18:59:01.807
|
# Question
Title: Wanhao i3 stops printing after about 40 minutes
I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 (rebadged Wanhao Di3) with a microswiss all metal hot-end and machined lever and extruder plate. It had been printing very consistently for months with this set up - through 5 or 6 kg of filament - until a couple of weeks ago when it has started to under-extrude and then stop partway into a print, after about 30-40 minutes. It seems to clog and grind the filament, skipping steps. I first assumed this was heat-creep, and so disassembled the extruder, cleaned the heatsink and applied new thermal paste before reassembling, but to no luck. I also tried new fans on the cold-end but this didn't help either.
Other things I have tried:
* various models - point at which the extruding stops seems based on length of time printing, not z position, suggesting to me that it is not an wires/electronics issue or an issue with the file.
* various layer heights
* various temperatures
* dust filter
* various filaments (changing reels of similar filament, different colours and brands, although all PLA)
* cleaned, and subsequently replaced extruder gear to rule out wear to that
* inserted washer under lever spring to add tension
* clearing the nozzle (cleaning filament, atomic pulls and drill-bit)
I've now run out of ideas of what could be causing the issue and what to try. What other issues could cause the above symptoms or, if it is heat-creep, how else could I solve the issue?
# Answer
**The nozzle was not seated properly**
Having failed to identify the problem with my current mods installed on the printer, I decided to remove everything and return the printer to factory condition to identify the problems. In particular this included replacing the all-metal hotend, and I took the opportunity to replace the insulation on the heater block too.
On removing the insulation from around my heater block, I discovered a mass of burned-on plastic that had oozed out from around the thread of the nozzle and collected under the insulation, showing that it clearly was not screwed in tight enough. After thoroughly cleaning out the heater block, replacing the insulation and reinstalling the nozzle - and ensuring it was tightly seated against the tube - I have been able to print without issue.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Time to check things that usually don't need checking. At this point I would check the power split.
Check the power supply voltage (+12V or maybe +24V, I don't know the printer) at the controller before and after the extrusion stops or sputters. Assure that the voltage stays the same. If it drops you have a culprit. While there, also check the +5V. If the power is inconsistent, check the connections for loose screws. If the power is also bad at the supply, replace it.
If the extruder starts clicking, it could be under voltage or under temperature. You have already checked for heat creep, and not found it. Either supply voltage can mess with actual temperature.
You have ruled out Z-height, so many possibilities are unlikely.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Have you checked your computers power saving settings, the USB port setting in particular, to see if your computer is turning off the USB port, the hard drive, or some other hardware vital to printing?
> 1 votes
---
Tags: wanhao, underextrusion
---
|
thread-10820
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10820
|
OpenSCAD weirdness with imported STL
|
2019-08-19T10:04:58.590
|
# Question
Title: OpenSCAD weirdness with imported STL
I've tried to remix this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90933 (Bauhaus chess set) by scaling it down and inserting little magnet holes into the pieces' underside. My SCAD file looks as follows:
```
difference() {
scale([0.5,0.5,0.5]) import("Bauhaus2Set.stl");
translate([ 6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=20.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20); // WTH?
// King/Queen
translate([ 6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);
translate([-6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);
// Rooks
translate([ 6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);
translate([-6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);
[...]
```
Note the third line with "WTH?" - I've done quite some trial-and-error, and if I remove that line, then I don't get any subtracted holes anymore when I render the whole thing (F6). In preview (F5), the holes are always present, but in the final render, I need to include the larger subtracted cylinder or it won't work.
The STL file seems to be fine in itself, what's going on here?
# Answer
It is interesting that the WTH line and the next line both should remove a cylinder of the same diameter from the same location. Only the height is different.
It could be interesting to remove the first King/Queen line and see if there is a change.
Have you checked the STL file with another tool, other than OpenSCAD? There may be a kink in the STL that confuses the geometry engine in OpenSCAD. The first difference could be catching the kink, and the second one carving out the magnet body in the bottom.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I see you've accepted cmm's answer, but I'd still like to take a stab at the mechanism of the failure based on your comment on it:
> Excellent explanation, thanks. The "WTH" cylinder is centered on the queen piece, and that has a sphere with lots of faces on top. So it looks like the "kink" is inside the queen where the sphere and the base cube overlap, and by accident, my trial-and-error removing of cylinders also removed just the right spot.
My guess is that if you look at the triangle set of the STL file, you'll find the interior of the queen contains the parts of the cube that are inside the sphere and the parts of the sphere that are inside the cube; they may not even be clipped to meet each other properly where they cross each other's surfaces. Sadly there are lots of tools producing invalid STL files like this. The longer cylinder is probaly sufficient to overlap with where the cube and sphere cross, forcing OpenSCAD to break down the model in that region and recompute the mesh where the components overlap. Without that recomputation, the differences likely end up interacting with just the "sphere part" of the STL mesh.
This explanation also seems to be consistent with the description of the thing on thingiverse:
> I much preferred the style of Bauhaus set that TeamTeaUSA's designed, but there was a lot of fiddling with the queen and the knight wouldn't print without supports. So I nestled the queen's sphere further into the body so it would print standing up, added supports for the knight and plated the whole thing.
where it looks like the creator took someone else's STL files and moved parts around to create an overlap, likely without proper tooling that could regenerate a valid mesh.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: stl, openscad
---
|
thread-10322
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10322
|
Ender 5 Slant or Leaning when printing multiple parts
|
2019-06-20T18:23:00.670
|
# Question
Title: Ender 5 Slant or Leaning when printing multiple parts
Getting slanted or leaning prints when printing multiple parts. I checked the eccentric nuts and belts aren't rubbing anything. All works well when printing a single part. But multiple parts:
What am I missing?
# Answer
> 2 votes
*If you want a more detailed answer, you need to give more details, e.g.; "What filament are you using?" "How old is the printer?" "What mods have you made to it?"*
---
I can tell you two possibilities. Either your x or y axis is slipping which could be because of worn out belts, belts that need to be tightened, or because of too much jerk. The other is overheating of the stepper drivers so make sure the board is getting enough air over it.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It could also be backlash in the system. Your belts aren't tight enough. Apparently the Y belt is not tight enough. That's a pretty awesome effect though.
---
Tags: pla, creality-ender-5
---
|
thread-10825
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10825
|
Why are delta bots so finicky?
|
2019-08-20T13:23:04.320
|
# Question
Title: Why are delta bots so finicky?
I've had my anycubic kossel for a good while now, and whenever I print something, it seems like it falls out of calibration very quickly. The biggest example is that the prints tend to scale up as the print progresses, or maybe the print starts to drift, and comes out slanted. This seems to never happen in any similarly priced XYZ printers. Why is this? Do XYZ printers just have an inherent advantage over deltas? Perhaps Deltas have some precision loss?
# Answer
user77232's points are valid but I have done several things to mitigate these issues on my Anycubic Deltas.
First, both of my deltas have linear slide bearings. If your's has the bearing trucks that run in the extrusion slots this will lead to less precise operation and also is a source of wear over time.
Second, be sure that the end stop micro switches are positioned precisely and that their fasteners are tight. You may also want to use a mild strength Loctite on their fasteners. When operated at high extrusion rates all components are subject to significant vibration.
Third, I found that the universal joints are also a significant source of play. I remedied this to some degree by placing rubber bands across the arms at both ends so that the play was minimized. The rubber bands should be wrapped fairly tightly to perform this function.
Forth, I try to tune the belt tension so that all of the belts have the same note when plucked. There are smart phone apps that will help do this. I believe that one that I use is from Gates, a premium manufacturer of drive belts. Also, over time belts stretch so you will need to retension them periodically.
Fifth, run through the firmware calibration process regularly for both positional accuracy and for filament extrusion and retraction variables.
I don't use my deltas much any more since purchasing a popular XYZ type printer but it cost me three times what they did and it still has issues from time to time.
> 6 votes
# Answer
(The XYZ Printers are called Cartesian Printers)
Delta printers are harder to get right, because they require precision parts. The arms have to be EXACTLY the same length, the frame must be square, the universal joints must have no slop. You should check to see if any of the universal joints need replacing, and that the length of the arms are equal.
Deltas however are some of the fastest robotic platforms due to the low mass of the end effector.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: delta
---
|
thread-10835
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10835
|
Replacing RAMPS 1.4 for 1.6
|
2019-08-21T18:12:22.117
|
# Question
Title: Replacing RAMPS 1.4 for 1.6
During the assembly of my printer, I accidentally shorted the RAMPS 1.4 board, looking for a replacement I found the RAMPS 1.6 which would eliminate the need for a MOSFET power module.
My question is, could I simply replace the RAMPS 1.4 for the 1.6 or should I make any other modification?
My printer is a Prusa i3 Graber Clone running Marlin
# Answer
RAMPS 1.6 is very similar to RAMPS 1.4. Most, if not all, of the changes are hardware improvements, without making the core functionality different. Looking at the incremental changes between versions:
To quote from RepRapWiki: RAMPS 1.5
> The RAMPS 1.5 is a variation of the popular RAMPS boards that, like all other RAMPS boards, is plugged into an Arduino Mega for operation. The layout of the RAMPS 1.5 is virtually identical to that of the RAMPS 1.4. The only real difference between the two are the MOSFETs and the fuses.
To quote from RepRapWiki: RAMPS 1.6
> The RAMPS 1.6 is the second RAMPS iteration released by BIQU/BIGTREETECH. It replaces the original green power connector with a pair of screw terminals, adds a larger heatsink over the MOSFETS, and has a larger bed MOSFET. It maintains the surface-mounted fuses and flush MOSFETS of the RAMPS 1.5.
>
> Also, the positions of the D1 and D2 diodes have been swapped from the positions in RAMPS 1.4, the D1 diode is now the diode closest to fuse F2. The same is true for RAMPS 1.5, also manufactured by BIQU/BIGTREETECH.
So, in short, yes, the RAMPS 1.6 *should* be a direct plug in replacement for the RAMPS 1.4.
That said, you *may* be able to salvage your RAMPS 1.4, if you can locate the part that has given up the "magic smoke". It could just be a blown capacitor, or diode. There have been a number of questions relating to that, so it might be worth searching for answers here, on SE.3DP<sup>1</sup>.
It is probably also worth reading RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?
---
### Additional links
An interesting video, where a variety of RAMPS 1.4 boards are compared, is the first of a series, RAMPS series 1 of 5 - Intro and board comparisons \- although beware the loud music...
There is also a RAMPS 1.6 Plus, and a RAMPS 1.4.2 which might be worth considering. I wrote up about these, briefly, *(disclosure) in my personal blog*, a couple of years ago: 3D Printer control boards.
---
### Footnote
<sup>1</sup> Such as How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?, which might be relevant in your case.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ramps-1.4, electronics, ramps, ramps-1.6
---
|
thread-10845
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10845
|
Is this articulated Turtle print failing because of over extrusion on a Taz Workhorse?
|
2019-08-23T06:05:17.517
|
# Question
Title: Is this articulated Turtle print failing because of over extrusion on a Taz Workhorse?
I've been working on calibrating my Taz Workhorse, and was dealing with some under-extrusion issues, despite checking the e-steps on the extruder and relatively modest retraction settings (2.5 mm at 25 mm/second).
Lulzbot tech support suggested I boost my flow to 105 % to account for this, and the little Lulzbot gear that resulted was decent (note this picture is after some minor string removal).
I tried moving on to a articulated Turtle, and there's a consistent failure at 17 %, where you can hear the nozzle collide with a part and knock it off the print bed, followed by the usual mayhem.
From looking at the parts, it looks like all the small joints in the piece have a lot of excess material in them, causing an upward arc, and eventually getting high enough that they're well over the height of the next layer. That's where the collision occurs, presumably.
What's the likely cause of this? The increased flow? Some other issue?
Other settings are mostly the Ultimaker Cura defaults, but I've also turned combing and Z-hop on (combing, especially, to combat stringing).
Print Settings:
* Lulzbot Taz Workhorse using Cura
* Polylite PLA 2.85 mm
* Print temperature: 215 °C (roughly the middle of the range, and where previous calibrations put me)
* Bed temperature: 60 °C
* Retraction: 2.5 mm at 25 mm/sec
* Combing "on"
* Z-Hop When Retracted "on" @ 1 mm
* Fan Speed: I've tried 60 % (default) and 100 %
* Print Speed: 40 mm/s
* Flow: 105 %
# Answer
> 3 votes
It looks to me like you have corner curling on overhangs, which can be contributed to by a mix of:
* overextrusion (poor dimensional accuracy of filament or wrong filament diameter setting)
* uneven extrusion (due to changes in the print head motion faster than the flow response to changes in the extruder)
* uneven cooling (especially due to proximity of one side to heated bed)
* too little cooling
and possibly other factors. I would first try lowering the bed temperature. Technically you can print PLA on an unheated bed, but adhesion may be too poor. Dropping to 45°C (my preference now) should not hurt adhesion much and might help; it partly solved my corner-curling problems.
Both uneven extrusion and insufficient cooling can be solved solved by printing slower, but that's no fun. It works for uneven extrusion because, even under constraints on acceleration/jerk, print head can change direction almost instantaneously at low speeds, yielding near-uniform absolute velocity.
Uneven extrusion can also be solved by cranking up the limits on acceleration and jerk. This is a tradeoff because it might get you more vibration/ringing, and beyond the physical limits of your printer it may even start skipping steps and shifting layers (failed prints), but up to that point I think it's a worthwhile tradeoff. Effects from uneven extrusion are some of the worst, in my opinion, print quality/print failure issues, and worth other minor blemishes to fix them if needed.
# Answer
> 1 votes
No, the print does not fail on over-extrusion, it fails by curled up parts of the print as of a filament heating/print part cooling issue.
If the curled up part has to be completely attached to the print bed (which is not the case after release of more information, but could be informative for others), your problem could be bed adhesion. If the original part does not (as has become clear in this case), so it is in fact an *"overhang"* you are printing, this could be a print cooling issue. Furthermore, in general your printing temperature appears to be too high, you could try lowering print temperature to 200 °C (which should work fine for 2.85 mm for not too high printing speeds), and lowering print speed and or increase print part cooling percentage (or print a more effective print cooling duct).
Furthermore, the picture of the articulated turtle appears to show that the left side is lower, as in the bed is not properly levelled or dented (but with glass the latter is virtually impossible as glass is flat as of the nature of the production process).
---
Tags: pla, lulzbot, print-failure
---
|
thread-10847
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10847
|
Can I order a 3D print of a 1 ml transparent container?
|
2019-08-23T09:46:58.777
|
# Question
Title: Can I order a 3D print of a 1 ml transparent container?
I'm trying to make a water insulated 1 cm<sup>3</sup> (1 ml) transparent container and I bought some plexiglass, I cut and glued some pieces together but it looks really crappy and barely holds the water in. I was wondering, is there a transparent material (similar to plexiglass) that can order to 3D print the container out of it? Also, if 3D printing is not the best option, where can I order around a 100 pieces of 1 cm<sup>3</sup> transparent water insulating containers with caps?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Yes. You'll probably want to use SLA or Polyjet printers with transparent resin. For example, here's Shapeways' page on transparent SLA and their page on Polyjet (which says you need to phone them for transparent Polyjet parts as their online order system can't handle it).
FDM printing with transparent materials doesn't usually result in parts that look like transparent injection-moulded parts, because the lines of material laid down by the printer are visible. There are some techniques to make this better, but a printing bureau is less likely to offer this kind of special handling.
In any case, you should discuss your requirements in more detail with suppliers, and they'll be able to advise whether they offer any manufacturing processes that meet your needs. In particular, if you need your containers to be food-safe, you should mention that at the start, as it'll rule out a lot of possible suppliers, machines, and materials.
# Answer
> 1 votes
3D printing services *can* do this, but you'll likely have better results at lower cost through an injection molding service. You probably won't even need to go through the internet; businesses doing this are common enough you can probably put a search in Google for "Injection Molding" along with your city or community and have a number or local choices, where you can go visit them in person to talk face to face about what you need.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You could order an sla or dlp printed part(which would probably be more expensive, but also quite durable and a little more transparent). Or you could order an fdm printed T-glase print, which would come out pretty clear and not be quite as strong as sla, but still pretty good for holding water.
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Tags: 3d-models
---
|
thread-10840
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10840
|
Does acid dissolve PETG 3D prints?
|
2019-08-22T16:07:37.677
|
# Question
Title: Does acid dissolve PETG 3D prints?
I want to print a lemon squeezer and I would prefer to use PET-G. I don't know if it is safe to use, because lemons contain lots of citric acid. Does it dissolve PETG? I haven't found an answer anywhere on the Internet. There are generally few things that dissolve PETG. These are aromatic compounds like toluene, phenol etc.
I know my model will be food safe, as PETG is food safe, I'm using one without a dye and my nozzle is made out of steel, not brass. I think bacteria growth inside little gaps/between layers is impossible, because the citric acid is quite strong and will kill nearly all of the germs.
# Answer
> 4 votes
According to kmac-plastics, PETG is stable at temperatures below 50°C specifically for citric acid (also acetic acid) and others on the linked list. It is also safe with diesel oil and many alcohols. The list is illuminating with respect to the variation of tested compounds.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The PETG is food safe (plastic water bottles are made of them), however the colour additives may not be a) stable, or b) food safe. If you are going to make a lemon squeezer then I would suggest that you use a virgin material that is just pet-g with no additives.
However, you could only ever use it one. Any food particles that get stuck in between the fine layers of the printed part, will cause bacterial growth. If the walls are porous then the juice can get inside of the part and create a breathing ground.
---
Tags: 3d-models, petg, food
---
|
thread-10853
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10853
|
Baud rate for Ender 3 on Repetier Host (Debian)
|
2019-08-23T14:04:14.797
|
# Question
Title: Baud rate for Ender 3 on Repetier Host (Debian)
Trying to set up Repetier host for Ender 3 on Debian.
The `/dev/ttyUSBx` is found via `dmesg`, this value goes in **config -\> printer settings -\> port**.
Printer connects fine, but commands do not send. Status reads
```
xx commands waiting.
```
I have tried all the various baud rate settings \<= 250k to no avail.
Is there something else I should be trying, or what is the correct baud rate to set?
`dmesg`:
```
[2828465.418249] usb 1-13: USB disconnect, device number 77
[2828465.418480] ftdi_sio ttyUSB0: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now disconnected from ttyUSB0
[2828465.418492] ftdi_sio 1-13:1.0: device disconnected
[2828469.171168] usb 1-13: new full-speed USB device number 82 using xhci_hcd
[2828469.329014] usb 1-13: New USB device found, idVendor=0403, idProduct=6001, bcdDevice= 6.00
[2828469.329017] usb 1-13: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3
[2828469.329018] usb 1-13: Product: FT232R USB UART
[2828469.329020] usb 1-13: Manufacturer: FTDI
[2828469.329021] usb 1-13: SerialNumber: A107MDUQ
[2828469.332455] ftdi_sio 1-13:1.0: FTDI USB Serial Device converter detected
[2828469.332485] usb 1-13: Detected FT232RL
[2828469.332756] usb 1-13: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now attached to ttyUSB0
```
`lsusb`:
```
Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub
Bus 003 Device 003: ID 0a5c:21e8 Broadcom Corp. BCM20702A0 Bluetooth 4.0
Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub
Bus 001 Device 081: ID 18d1:4ee1 Google Inc. Nexus Device (MTP)
Bus 001 Device 002: ID 1b1c:1b45 Corsair
Bus 001 Device 046: ID 1b1c:1b50 Corsair
Bus 001 Device 049: ID 14cd:1212 Super Top microSD card reader (SY-T18)
Bus 001 Device 082: ID 0403:6001 Future Technology Devices International, Ltd FT232 Serial (UART) IC
Bus 001 Device 060: ID 1908:0226 GEMBIRD
Bus 001 Device 059: ID 046d:c52b Logitech, Inc. Unifying Receiver
Bus 001 Device 058: ID 05e3:0610 Genesys Logic, Inc. 4-port hub
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
```
`usb-devices`:
```
T: Bus=01 Lev=01 Prnt=01 Port=12 Cnt=02 Dev#= 82 Spd=12 MxCh= 0
D: Ver= 2.00 Cls=00(>ifc ) Sub=00 Prot=00 MxPS= 8 #Cfgs= 1
P: Vendor=0403 ProdID=6001 Rev=06.00
S: Manufacturer=FTDI
S: Product=FT232R USB UART
S: SerialNumber=A107MDUQ
C: #Ifs= 1 Cfg#= 1 Atr=a0 MxPwr=90mA
I: If#=0x0 Alt= 0 #EPs= 2 Cls=ff(vend.) Sub=ff Prot=ff Driver=ftdi_sio
```
# Answer
Your firmware configuration may vary (probably worth checking what you have set), but from The Ender 3 configuration is set to 115200 baud rate #12174, the standard baud rate seems to be 115200.
> I think the default Ender 3 configuration is aligned to the Ender3 official confg, which has 115200 so...
Ah, but this is Marlin, and you're using Repetier. Hmmm, maybe ignore that then.
According to Recommended baud rate?:
> Normally 115200 or 250000 baud should work find and usb-\>serial latency is the bottleneck.
Apart from that I don't know. Sorry. I might delete this answer, if it doesn't help.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, repetier
---
|
thread-10861
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10861
|
Anet A8 stock replacement fuse between motherboard and PSU
|
2019-08-25T20:33:06.707
|
# Question
Title: Anet A8 stock replacement fuse between motherboard and PSU
My inline fuse burned and I don't know how many ampere the new fuse should have.
# Answer
Couple things to note. First one is that as @Paulster2 mentioned, the fuse itself *should* have its rating printed on it.
Second one is that if your fuse blew, there's a reason for that, and you really should try to figure out what that reason is before you start putting fuses back in. The Anet A8 isn't exactly what I'd call a high-quality kit, so there's a chance you've got a blown FET or something somewhere that has shorted closed and is just drawing power nonstop. You should start by getting a multimeter and checking the continuity of the power traces for your hotend and bed, without power in the system. You can do some basic safety checks that way.
Once you've gotten that done, if you're referring to a 12 V feed line, that should be somewhere in the ballpark of 20 A fuse. If it's a fuse on the mains power, it'll be like 1 A or 2 A depending on whether you're on 240 V or 120 V mains (respectively).
> 3 votes
---
Tags: anet-a8
---
|
thread-10863
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10863
|
How sensitive are all-metal print heads?
|
2019-08-26T04:30:05.757
|
# Question
Title: How sensitive are all-metal print heads?
So my goal was to print in a variety of materials with my CR10, but all attempts up to now have failed. I've tried a variety of all-metal hot-ends (except Micro Swiss) with no success. For those with a similar Creality printer that successfully print with all metal ends, how sensitive are they? Do they only print with high temp materials? Is a head too close to the bed enough to jam it? Is a 5 mm retraction prone to jam it? Do I need to stick to a premium brand when it comes to all metal hot ends?
# Answer
Full definite answers on your questions are hard be given, there are a few parameters affecting the clogging of all-metal hotends.
All-metal hotends are considered so-called "upgrades" for printers while in fact they usually cause more problems. For high temperature filaments, like PC and some Nylons, etc. (printing temperature above 250 °C) you require a hotend that can withstand higher temperatures for prolonged use of the hotend. The problem is that heat creep (heat climbing up the throat/heat break) causes low temperature melting filaments to become prematurely soft and cause problems when retracted.
This requires the printer operator to provide enough cooling air to the coldend of the hotend assembly (usually the part where the cooling fins are) to dissipate heat creeping up the heat break and carefully tune printing temperature and retraction length.
Note that Ultimaker Cura uses quite large retraction values (default 6.5 mm), which work perfectly for the UM3E. This could be closely related to the compression effect of the filament in the Bowden tube. The all-metal hotends from the UM3 are perfectly capable of printing low temperature filaments, so if dialed in correctly, such hotends are not only to be used for high temperature filaments.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: hotend, creality-cr-10
---
|
thread-10868
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10868
|
Finishing sunken text in 3D prints
|
2019-08-26T16:57:33.060
|
# Question
Title: Finishing sunken text in 3D prints
On several occasions I've wanted lettering/numbering printed as part of a design, but with the ability to make it stand out more effectively in the printed object without having to do detailed manual finishing. Is there a good material which can catch in and fill sunken (depth 0.4 mm, width 0.6-1.0 mm) lines/strokes of alphanumeric characters without sticking to the surface (including fine layer ridges) of the print? My best result so far has been with crayon wax, but I wonder if there are more suitable materials. (Polymer clay, perhaps?)
Results with crayons:
Durability is nice (and essential for some applications), but for many uses I have in mind it's not such a big deal. For example another place I've wanted clear text is on test panels to check nut/bolt thread sizes, in which case the text is unlikely to receive harsh treatment but any heat-based curing processes might effect the dimensional accuracy negatively. So both durable and non-durable solutions are interesting to me.
# Answer
As suggested by Davo in a comment, nail polish works very well for this.
> I've seem people use fingernail polish before, wiping the excess off while it's wet.
What works even better than wiping the excess off while it's wet is letting it fill up the pits and fully dry, then using acetone or other solvents to remove it from the non-sunken surface around the text. Acetone doesn't attack PLA, but I've found it does alter some PLA dyes, so alternate solvents might be preferable if that's a problem.
Here's the result of my first test:
> 2 votes
# Answer
I think your instinct is good. The trick is finding the right modeling compound, with the right curing properties, that will stick to your polymer dice, and will be available in colors you like.
Amazon has some epoxy-based clays that appear to be either terra-cotta or black. If these colors work, this may be the right choice. Most epoxies will cling well, and it seems to have minimal shrinkage when hardening. You could probably add some pigment and alter the color, but I doubt you could get a white, yellow, or any light color.
There are some air-drying clays, but the reviews show that these have higher shrinkage.
There are some bake-to-harden clays that harden between 250 and 300 degrees Farenheit. If you printed with ABS or a high temperature plastic, it might work. You would have to try it to know. 300 F is only 149 C, so maybe. PLA wouldn't stand a chance. If you can print polycarbonate, it might work better.
This material looks interesting: https://www.amazon.com/Polymer-Modelling-Modeling-Tutorials-Accessories/dp/B0716D1VDM?ref\_=fsclp\_pl\_dp\_6 There are lots of colors, and it can be cured in a 275 Farenheit oven, with a hot-air gun, or by boiling in water.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: post-processing
---
|
thread-10871
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10871
|
Where to get smartphone shapes from, to create a case all by myself?
|
2019-08-26T20:51:04.127
|
# Question
Title: Where to get smartphone shapes from, to create a case all by myself?
I'm looking for some kind of collection of shapes of smartphones, so I can design a case that will fit certain models perfectly. STL, or any other kind of 3d file.
Lots of companies produce cases for smartphones, do they have the shapes straight from the manufacturer? Do they reverse engineer every model?
I'm asking here because I couldn't find a stack exchange site that would be a better fit for this kind of question.
# Answer
I'm not aware of a source for STL files or engineering diagrams, but you can do the measurements yourself fairly easily. I did this to make credit-card-slot cases for my Moto G4 and the fit turned out very good.
Start with a digital caliper and measure the maximum length, width, and depth of the phone, ignoring rounded corners. Next, trace the phone on a piece of paper and use a straightedge to extend the flat parts of the sides to a bounding rectangle, and measure how far from the corner the curved part extends in each direction before meeting the flat part. Finally, if the sides of the phone are rounded too, estimate how thick the phone would be if you extended the curved edge to a full semicircle.
At this point, you can approximate the shape of the phone as the convex hull of 4 spheres scaled appropriately in the x, y, and z directions, if the sides are curved, or the convex hull of 4 cylinders scaled in just the x and y directions, if the sides are flat. In the former (spheres) case, the approximation will be thicker than the phone, and you have to slice off the top and bottom to match the arc segment that's actually present on the sides of the phone. There are ways to do this exactly but I found it doesn't need to be precise and you can just eyeball it.
In order to make a usable case, you'll also need to measure the distances of camera lens, buttons you want to expose, etc. from reference points. This is straightforward with a caliper.
Here's my result, following this procedure:
> 2 votes
---
Tags: stl
---
|
thread-10870
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10870
|
Can linear guide rails be joined?
|
2019-08-26T20:33:08.357
|
# Question
Title: Can linear guide rails be joined?
Take the standard Hiwin rail, as commonly used in 3D printers:
They come in a max length of 2500 mm. Let's say I need twice that. If I connect two rails together end to end (as a "butt joint") and just bolt them into place, will it work as though it was one 5000 mm rail? Or are we limited to whatever lengths the manufacturers put out.
# Answer
The answer is yes; and it's a normal thing to do.
https://www.igus.com/info/linear-guides-butting-rails-together
Basically you should only do it with rails from the same manufacturer and you might have to file the mating surfaces, but butting them is altogether trivial. This method works with Drylin and UHMW-PE bearing surfaces as recirculating balls could get caught in the small gap that is left behind. This would cause the carriage to "jump" as it passes over the joint.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: linear-motion
---
|
thread-10867
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10867
|
What kind of paint and varnish can be used with ABS?
|
2019-08-26T15:35:51.773
|
# Question
Title: What kind of paint and varnish can be used with ABS?
I know that acrylic paint, the same kind that is used to paint miniature figurines, works best for PLA. Does it works on ABS pieces as well? Can I also use the same kind of varnish that is used for miniatures on my painted ABS prints? If not, what kind of paint and varnish works on ABS prints?
# Answer
ABS is more soluble in solvents than is PLA. Acetone will dissolve it, which can be a benefit because it allows vapor smoothing, but can be a problem with some paints which have solvents other than water. Try out any new paint on a scrap piece. Apply a thick dot of the paint, let it sit for a couple of minutes, and then wipe it off. If there is a change in the shape or color where the dot had been, the paint may be dissolving the ABS.
Acrylic has a water base and does not attack ABS.
A paint that attacks ABS may be fine, but there may be some color bleeding of the ABS color into the paint. A translucent (or clear) ABS would minimize the problem, since does not contain any pigment.
Spray painting may work better because the paint is undisturbed once applied. Brushing on paint will mix the dissolved layer with the unaltered paint.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: abs, post-processing
---
|
thread-10883
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10883
|
Nozzle cleaning
|
2019-08-28T08:40:00.717
|
# Question
Title: Nozzle cleaning
A few minutes after finishing a print job, the filament is solidified in the nozzle and the nozzle-throat. When I start another print job a while later, the filament is not sufficiently melted and the nozzle is obstructed. Do I need to clean the nozzle after every print job ? or is there a practical method to overcome this difficulty ?
# Answer
> 3 votes
To start a print, the printer has first get up to print temperature, re-melting the plastic in the nozzle and hotend. To get better results, it is usually a very good idea to "prime" the nozzle to make sure we have nicely melted plastic in the nozzle and pushed out the old. Some priming methods have been discussed here.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I had this issue until I started doing the following:
1. If you are going to print subsequent jobs (one after the other), then ensure you keep the extruder end at print temperature while you are preparing the next job. For me on my Anet A8, I'd just tell the printer to preheat for PLA (or directly set a temp for the filament being used). This keeps the heat up in the hot end and should allow you to start printing right away when everything is ready. Please note, this will usually cause the nozzle to ooze a little bit of filament as it sits. Just ensure you swipe it clean before you actually start the next print to alleviate and stringing issues when you press the "GO" button. As an alternative, you could attach a line at the end of your print which would send the G-code to keep the printer up to temperature instead of cooling off after a print is finished. If you do this, though, you have to ensure you actually do allow it to shut down when you aren't printing so as to not waste resources.
2. If you are not going to print subsequent jobs, pull the filament out of the extruder. On my Anet A8, right after the print has finished, but before things start cooling, I will press the spring loaded part of the extruder head (the part which captures the filament against the extruder gear), then push the filament into the extruder and quickly out. This usually ensures you don't leave a lot of filament languishing in the extruder head and will make it easier to load the filament the next time you want to print.
---
Tags: extruder, nozzle
---
|
thread-10891
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10891
|
Weird temperature reading using thermistor on MKS GEN L v1.0 AUX-2 analog pins
|
2019-08-29T02:59:27.697
|
# Question
Title: Weird temperature reading using thermistor on MKS GEN L v1.0 AUX-2 analog pins
Temperature is showing about 680 °C at room temperature. When I make it "hotter" by holding my thumb and index finger on it, the temperature does increase. So it is responding to temperature changes.
I'm trying to add some thermistors to my MKS GEN L v1.0 board:
I'm using the `A11` pin and `GND` in the picture above.
The thermistor works correctly when plugged into the `HE1` temperature pin. So the thermistor is fine hardware-wise.
The thermistor is set to be the "Chamber" thermistor in Marlin 1.1.x. This just means it is supposed to record the temperature of the enclosure. I don't know if there is some kind of volatility issue with the chamber constant in Marlin.
The thermistor has the same settings in Marlin for both `HE1` and the chamber one. They are both set to "thermistor 11" for the 3950 type of thermistor. So the most visible setting implies they should be treated the same firmware-wise.
I've also tried the other extra Analog pins in the AUX-2 port.
What could be the issue here?
If these are the only available analog pins, how can I add more thermistors to my set-up so that they're available in Marlin?
Is there any way I can use the AUX-1 port? It doesn't seem to be an analog pin like in the photo for this particular version of RAMPS. I tried pin `A3` but it didn't work.
# Answer
Thermistors, commonly used as temperature sensors on 3D printers and other DIY things, work by changing their internal resistance depending on the temperature.
On the analog ports, the microcontroller can determine the voltage of the connected signal.
To actually measure the resistance - and thus temperature - of the thermistor, you need to build a voltage divider:
Most, if not all, 3D printer control boards use a resistor of 4.7 kOhms and a capacitor to build this voltage divider:
You'll need at least this 4.7 kOhm resistor to get your thermistors working on any analog pin, if the three thermistor ports on the MKS Gen L don't suffice for you needs. You could also use other temperature sensors, especially for the case, like the DHT11 or DHT22, however I couldn't find whether they're supported by Marlin yet.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, thermistor
---
|
thread-10830
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10830
|
Make holes in PLA print
|
2019-08-21T09:04:02.277
|
# Question
Title: Make holes in PLA print
I have a print I need to make holes in.
I have read some other threads where the answers was in short, "don't, print the holes", and "make sure to make the hole from the top or bottom".
The problem is I need the hole in the side of a print with about 1 mm walls.
The holes I need is to run a USB cable in and a few to hold 3 mm LEDs.
One of the holes needs to be 10 mm.
What is my best option?
I read that there is a risk it cracks, so I was thinking maybe I can use a soldering iron for the smaller holes?
That will melt the plastic and create nice smooth walls, right? Less risk of cracks?
The piece will not be loaded in any way, it's just holdin it's own weight.
I never anticipated that it would be an issue to drill holes in prints. If I had known it I might have tried more to change the print before ordering it.
(I don't have a printer to make a new one with.)
**Note:** The part has *already* been printed. This is a question about post-printing processing, *not* modelling for a new print.
# Answer
> 2 votes
You're going to have to drill those holes. The plastic will melt if you drill too quickly. If at all possible, use a slow speed drill, a hand drill, or wrap a cloth around a drill bit and twist it with your hand. If you go too fast, the part will melt. If you press to hard the part will break.
Once the hole has been drilled you will need to reinforce it with a metal/plastic tube of the required diameter. Press the tube into the hole. I don't know what your wall thickness is, but try to ensure the tube is the same length.
If at all possible you should get flanged tubes like these from mc master car:
The parts with the 1/2 inch inner diameter and 5/8 outer diameter should fit your 10 mm requirement. The rest is up to you. Go to mcmaster.com/inserts scroll down to "Other Inserts" then "Tube and tube fittings".
# Answer
> 2 votes
3D-printed parts should not be so fragile that they crack from drilling holes. However, the material will melt if you drill fast, so go very slow. Also, they're usually not printed with solid infill. If you drill a hole in a thin wall (typically around 1.6 mm or less) then the sides of the hole should be solid just from the printed wall thickness, but if you drill a hole through something thicker, you'll create an opening into the sparse infill space in the object's interior. This *might* affect the strength of the part and will allow air/water/etc. to enter the interior, which probably doesn't matter for your usage case, but it's something to be aware of too.
A soldering iron set to around 200°C is a perfectly good way to make holes too. It's harder to control the precise location and size of the hole, but if anything it will strengthen the part.
For future reference, it's a much better idea to just include holes in your design to be printed. As long as they're either round (as opposed to flattened ovals/square/etc.) or small, pringing holes horizontally should not be a problem. Vertically oriented is better if they'll be under load, but for passing wires or mounting things not under serious load either should be fine.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Drilling in thin walls might be very tricky, you can easily get holes bigger than anticipated, especially when there is infill in between walls (less than 100 %, as the drill may shift position of the internal infill structure). Note also that printed material can split very easy. You can also solder holes into the walls. There are special tools available on the market, e.g. this one can create fine or big holes, I've used it for quite some time:
# Answer
> 1 votes
## Drilling Works in PLA
Drilling is not difficult. As others have said, a slow drill wins the race. For some holes, I hold the drill by hand (or in a hand-help chuck) and use it as the rotary knife it really is.
It will be better if you put some support under the hole. It also may help to put a layer of masking tape over the front, marked with the location. As with any critical drilling, start with an undersized drill and expand with another drill.
## A Melting or Hybrid Approach May Be Better
Since this is printed plastic, thin walled, and nicely meltable, I would drill a hole undersided by a mm or two and then expand it by melting the plastic with a hot soldering iron. If you gush up the edges enough, you will accomplish a solid wall, which will be stronger than a separated front and back surface. Since the gushed up hole will probably not be circular, and may have lobes that are too small an opening, I would do another pass with the proper sized drill. If the plastic is still a little soft, you can use the back of the drill as a forming tool to expand the opening to be the right size.
## What I Would Try First
PROTIP or HACK, you decide: For making small changes in PLA parts, I have placed them in water heated to 160-170 degrees F. This softens everything a little, and you can make small changes. You might be able to punch a hole with an ice pick and finish it with the back of a drill. If the ice pick doesn't make a hole, heat it with a hot-air gun (or hair dryer).
# Answer
> 1 votes
I discovered a trick to drilling holes in plastics and its works well with PLA, too.
First print your part with a somewhat undersized hole and, with your selected drill bit, run the bit backwards while seated in the printed hole. You can often use increased speed to create more heat from friction, but be careful when applying a little pressure on the bit and always remain aware that the bit could push through at any instant.
If you run the bit in its usual direction, it will more likely, and suddenly, bite into the plastic and make an ugly hole or split your print.
# Answer
> 0 votes
As a follow up on this I wanted to post some pictures of the result with only the soldering iron.
I was soldering some cables and when it was still hot I figured I could give it a go.
The hole is on the underside and in a closed compartment so it's not visible.
Anyways, about 3 mm hole at this point and quite pleased with the result.
---
Tags: pla
---
|
thread-10890
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10890
|
Configuration of the Anet A6 full graphic LCD 12864 on an Anet A8
|
2019-08-28T20:42:20.920
|
# Question
Title: Configuration of the Anet A6 full graphic LCD 12864 on an Anet A8
I finished fixing my Anet A8 about the 3DTouch sensor working with the LCD2004 stock display, I am installing the full graphic display LCD 12864 (for Anet A6) but when I compile Marlin 1.1.9 the following error appears:
```
Arduino: 1.8.9 (Windows 7), Sheet: 'Anet V1.0 (Optiboot)'
c: / program files (x86) / arduino / hardware / tools / avr / bin /../ lib / gcc / avr / 5.4.0 /../../../../ avr / bin / ld. exe: C: Users Claudio AppData Local Temp aruino_build_739999 / Marlin - this_feature_good.ino.elf section `.text 'will not fit in region` text'
c: / program files (x86) / arduino / hardware / tools / avr / bin /../ lib / gcc / avr / 5.4.0 /../../../../ avr / bin / ld. exe: region `text 'overflowed by 1866 bytes
collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status
```
This happened after activating the Anet A6 display and deactivating the LCD2004.
Obviously given the low memory I performed the flash bootloader using `ANET OPTIBOOT` and reloaded the firmware. If I deactivate the whole part of the 3DTouch, then the 12864 LCD display works properly, now I have 130 kbit (about 16 kB) memory left.
Arduino warns me if I do not have enough memory. In this case, instead of those errors I do not know what they are for. Maybe using an older Marlin version would help?
# Answer
> 1 votes
To downsize the firmware you can manually disable a lot of less useful stuff. E.g. why have 2 pre-heating profiles for PLA and ABS while you can set hotend and heated bed manually.
One of the largest memory savers is disabling arc support, `G2`/`G3` commands aren't used by most slicer programs. From Configuration\_adv.h can be found that you can save more than 3000 bytes:
```
//
// G2/G3 Arc Support
//
#define ARC_SUPPORT // Disable this feature to save ~3226 bytes
```
You can probably find more features to disable to save memory, e.g. look into question *"What can be removed from Marlin 1.1.9 to fit on 128K controller? I'm currently 318 bytes over"*, quoting:
```
//#define SHOW_BOOTSCREEN // enabled
//#define SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN // enabled
//#define CUSTOM_STATUS_SCREEN_IMAGE // enabled
//#define LCD_INFO_MENU // enabled, shows useless 'about printer' menu
//#define STATUS_MESSAGE_SCROLLING // enabled, saves some flash space
//#define DOGM_SD_PERCENT // disabled, show print % bar graph
//#define NO_WORKSPACE_OFFSETS // Disables M206 and M428
//#define ARC_SUPPORT // enabled, used for CNC toolpaths
#define NO_VOLUMETRICS // disabled, not used without width sensor?
//#define SCROLL_LONG_FILENAMES
#define SLIM_LCD_MENUS // Disable 'extraneous' menu items
//#define SPEAKER // Disable beeper if you don't want it.
//#define LEVEL_BED_CORNERS
```
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8, firmware, display
---
|
thread-10893
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10893
|
What's the best way to pull out fillament from an all metal print head
|
2019-08-29T06:46:09.430
|
# Question
Title: What's the best way to pull out fillament from an all metal print head
Since retractions above 4 mm can cause jams due to plastic sticking to the cold half of the metal print head, what's the best way to avoid jams when swapping filaments?
Cool down and yank out, rapid pull out while melted, pull out at partial heat but not completely melted, or something else?
# Answer
Cold/Luke-Warm pulling can cause damage and wear to the hot end, and should only be used in cases where you suspect there's a jam in the nozzle.
Pulling the filament out at a few degrees above its normal printing temperature and pulling quickly is what I use, and what I've seen other's also say, and the procedure most machines use.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament, hotend, retraction, change-filament
---
|
thread-5381
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5381
|
What's the best printing technique to produce splints (a device to immobilize a body part)?
|
2018-02-02T13:53:26.260
|
# Question
Title: What's the best printing technique to produce splints (a device to immobilize a body part)?
One of the most interesting field in which the 3D Printing is being considered is the fabrication of biocompatible devices and parts for a medical applications. For that I am interesting in knowing what technique are used for the fabrication of splints or cast used for the immobilization of human body part, also which material is compatible with this technique?
# Answer
For anything where there is an **open or bandaged wound**, you should NOT use 3D printing, and should use sterilized medical equipment to prevent infection and heavy metals infiltrating the bloodstream.
SLA/SLS 3D printing may be the best option for replicating the complex structure of the splint you have pictured above, as FDM printers have difficulty reproducing those structures.
However, FDM printing CAN reproduce it, and generally FDM printers have access to a wider variety of materials of which models can be printed with, so they may be the best option overall.
For something to immobilize a body part that has been broken, you may want to use a stiff material such as ABS or Carbon Fibre, However PLA may work still in these cases.
As for something to support a body part, Flexible or Semi-Flexible materials may be desired, such as Ninjaflex (TPU), Nylon.
As a disclaimer:
**I am not a medical professional, This is not medical advice, please consult a properly licenced medical professional first before using 3D printing to solve a medical ailment.**
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, print-material, health, medical
---
|
thread-10874
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10874
|
Problem with first and last layers
|
2019-08-27T12:01:01.813
|
# Question
Title: Problem with first and last layers
I bought Ender-5 and if I print sample model in bundle SD, it’s just perfect.
But when I tested basic cube with raft, its base and top is just ugly. Even thought its 4 sides are perfect.
* Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1
* Bed temperature 45 °C
* Extruder temperature 200 °C
Which setting(s) should I check futher?
# Answer
> 2 votes
You may want to ensure that your filament diameter is correctly set in your printer's CURA profile, and that your hot end is at the correct temperature for the material you are using. Additionally, you should not need a raft to print the cube, and should be able to do without a raft or brim.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, creality-ender-5
---
|
thread-10709
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10709
|
Spindle DC motor and drill bit specifications for Circuit etching CNC machine
|
2019-07-28T05:41:49.780
|
# Question
Title: Spindle DC motor and drill bit specifications for Circuit etching CNC machine
I'm making a Circuit etching machine (CNC) and I need a good DC motor and drill bit for the spindle.
My machine should be able to **etch**, **drill**, and **cut**:
* **Etching**: take copper off the surface like chemicals or a laser would
* **Drilling**: drill holes for THT (through-hole) components and possibly 2-sided boards
* **Cutting**: cut out a piece of the board (cutting a big piece in half or cut a circle out of a big piece)
I'd like to have 1 drill bit work with all 3 functions if possible. Having to switch out different bits is OK but a single bit is prefered.
What sort of specifications should my spindle DC motor (rpm, voltage/amperage rating, ...) and drill bit (material, size, angle, ...) have?
# Answer
There are several sources of PCB "etching" bits. They tend to be single straight flutes and high angle, very pointy bits.
For the motor, high speed is good. Look for 30k+ RPM. The main thing to be concerned about is the amount of runout, or wobble in the tip. With a tiny tip, you can't afford much runout at all. It will broaden the gap you are cutting and put stress on the bit, probably snapping it.
The key to low runout is very careful alignment of the chuck that holds the tip with the shaft of the motor, and a collet chuck to hold the tool.
The power needs aren't high since the speed is high and the cuts are light. I would think that a 250 watt motor should be way more than sufficient.
The question now asks for drilling and routing, which should work better with the high-speed spindle. 30k is better for the tiny drills than a much slower spindle. These are hurt by run out.
Usually the drill bits are made of carbide. For cutting, carbide router or file bits are used. All drill-bits and router bits and copper cutting bits I have seen for sale have 1/8" or 3mm shank.
> 4 votes
# Answer
At Hyrel, where I work, we use a 12 VDC, 3.5 A, 40 W spindle tool with 1/4" chuck and 3,000 rpm max (without load) to make prototype circuit boards by machining through the copper layer to make isolation traces.
> 4 votes
# Answer
### TL;DR
From Davo's and cmm's answers there seems to be a wide range of drill spindle speeds used (3k-30k rpm). So, just to add to that... 11,000 rpm would appear to be adequate.
---
I have been looking into converting a Wilson II 3D printer chassis into a CNC PCB etching machine, recently. In particular, what motor I needed to replace the extruder with.
A collegue pointed me to an interesting video, PCB making, PCB prototyping – UV solder mask STEP by STEP, produced by Wegstr (no affiliation whatsoever), and their machine uses a 11,000 rpm drill. From the specification page:
> * Spindle - Brushless AC motor
> * Diameter of spindle - 3.175 mm (0.000737 inch)
> * Spindle speed - 11 000 rpm Electronic overload protection for the spindle motor
Apparently DC motors suffer from carbon brush wear, so a combination of DC circuitry and brushless AC motor is used for "superior performance and durability".
The voltage and current of the spindle motor is unclear/unspecified, but the PSU, that comes with it, outputs 12 V 5 A.
However, the parts page lists the spindle motor separately, spindle 11000rpm, with the following specifications:
> * 26V DC power supply
> * 11000 rpm
> * designed for tools with shank diameter 3.175 mm
> * fastening tool with the setscrew
> * in the rear spindle 4x M4 threaded hole for mounting on a substrate
> * power consumption 25W
> * brushless construction =\> no carbon brush wear =\> long life
> * low noise
So, given the voltage and power consumption the current rating would seem to be ~1 A.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: motor, cnc
---
|
thread-10880
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10880
|
Are there many differences between Ultimaker Cura and FlashForge FlashPrint slicers?
|
2019-08-27T16:45:03.360
|
# Question
Title: Are there many differences between Ultimaker Cura and FlashForge FlashPrint slicers?
I recently bought a 3D printer called Dreamer NX from FlashForge. The dealer told me to use FlashPrint software that belongs to the FlashForge printer manufacturer. But, many people advise me to use Ultimaker Cura. Are there many differences between these two software packages?
# Answer
> 6 votes
The commonality of the 2 slicers is that both are developed and maintained by a printer manufacturer. The largest difference is that FlashPrint is closed/proprietary software, while Ultimaker Cura is released in source (so-called open source project) to the public; this is valid for both the frontend (Cura) (Graphical User Interface) as for the slicing core (CuraEngine). Basically this implies that there is a larger community developing and bug fixing the software. Also, FlashPrint is exclusively available for the FlashForge printers while Ultimaker Cura can be used for different brands as well.
Statement from www.3dprms.com:
> The Flashpoint software is an in-house software program developed by FlashForge for use exclusively with the FlashForge 3D Printers
Statement from the Cura wikipedia:
> Cura is an open source 3D printer slicing application. It was created by David Braam who was later employed by Ultimaker, a 3D printer manufacturing company, to maintain the software.
As FlashPrint is proprietary, it has no shared source repository and can therefore not be based on existing forks of software that are released under e.g. some version of the LGPL license as this implies that you need to share the amendments you made to the software, otherwise you would be in violation:
> ...any developer who modifies an LGPL-covered component is required to make their modified version available under the same LGPL license..
---
<sub>*Note that discussing the exact differences in features between the 2 software packages (e.g. implementation differences of model support structures) would be more fit in a forum style discussion board rather than on a Stack Exchange site.*</sub>
# Answer
> 2 votes
Perhaps this is veering out a little bit from being an answer to the specific differences between software functionality, but one important difference that shouldn't be overlooked is that whatever you learn with Cura is applicable to *all FDM 3D printers*.
Surely some setting tweaks you do might be specific to the properties of your particular printer, but a large amount of them, like choices of infill patterns, shells, adaptive layer heights, using secondary models as custom support and infill masks, breaking up models into multiple pieces for printing, etc. are completely printer-agnostic. If you learn to do these with software that's only usable (or at least only meant to be used) with your particular brand of printers, you'll have to translate/relearn if you later want to use a different printer, or help someone else who has a different brand of printer. If you learn with software that works with any printer, everything you learn is immediately applicable to different printers.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, flashprint, flashforge-dreamer
---
|
thread-10906
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10906
|
Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls?
|
2019-08-30T17:44:56.120
|
# Question
Title: Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls?
Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls? PTFE tubes melt with high enough temperatures and all metal ends risk jamming as heat makes its way up the head.
# Answer
It *can* be done cheaply, as two different users have proven, see
However, as Paulster2 states in his answer, there are some technical issues with using it, which make it rather problematic. Apparently, in comparison with PTFE, the thermal conductivity of the ceramic in spark plugs is too high, to use (according to `nophead` \- a user on the reprap forums), and there are friction/clogging issues, unless the inner diameter is very well polished.
---
### Synopsis of reference
The RepRap user, `hp_`, encountered the issues above when attempting a design - from Ceramic Hotend - Part 1
> **Research**
>
> As far as I know there are no ceramic hotends out there, I know nophead has tried some spark-plugs for nozzle holders but found them not suitable(thermal conductivity is pretty high). I wanted to give it a go, confident enough (I hoped), that it would work :)
>
> So in my case, a hotend exists out of 2 main parts, a nozzle holder and a nozzle.
>
> * The nozzle is the easy part it would stay brass.
> * The nozzle holder is the interesting part, here is what I've come-up with
>
> total length should be in the range of 35-40mm, see my first sketch below:
>
> here are many types of ceramic out there, ie. 95% AI2O3, 99% AI2O3, Zirconia (see material properties sheet Link)
>
> 95% AI2O3 is easy to buy but after a few tests the conclusion was its to brittle for my taste, second material to try is Zirconia.
>
> I've found a few Chinese ceramic manufactures. Only draw back I had to order 10 pieces for the first batch.. on something that has never been tested, well I'd give it a shot.... and ordered the parts.
but the clogging issue mentioned above was encountered:
> ...after the first layer, it just stopped extruding.. ugh!!! what could be wrong????
>
> Possible root causes \- Friction coefficient? Meaning after awhile the friction between PLA and the Ceramic became so high it would just jam the nozzle holder.
>
> * Stickiness? Could it be that after awhile PLA would just stick to the Ceramic and would jam because of this?
> * PLA thermal expansion( nozzle holder barrel is to small?) so the inner diameter of this nozzle holder is 3.2mm, could it be that the 3.0mm filament would expand so much because of the heat, that it would start to jam the nozzle holder?
> * Connection between nozzle and nozzle holder is insufficient cause the Jam??
The user was forced to return to using PTFE.
From Ceramic hotend part-2, after some rework done by the Chinese manufacturer, the new hotends worked correctly:
> Awhile ago i stared working on the ceramic hotend and found out the first version wouldn't work for 3.0mm fillament,
>
> after some discussion with my chinese counterpart :) i got a new version of the ceramic piece.
>
> They polished the inside very deep and precise. and i gave it another go.
and
> some more tinkering with the hotend and a new nozzle design, with a smaller Inner diameter, and its longer
Apart from that the details are a little sparse.
---
### Additional information
From J-head with ceramic body instead of PEEK, specifically this post:
> > Just to be clear, it's Ceramic Zirconium.
> >
> > My concern was that Zirconium becomes brittle when it is exposed to heat for consecutive long periods of time. I would stay with PEEK.
>
> MgO or Yttria stabilized grades of Zirconium are very stable.
>
> Pure ZrO2 is known to crack, so additives are used to stabilize it.
>
> **Key Properties of Zirconium Oxide**
>
> * *Use temperatures up to 2400°C*
> * High density
> * Low thermal conductivity (20% that of alumina)
> * Chemical inertness
> * Resistance to molten metals
> * Ionic electrical conduction
> * Wear resistance
> * *High fracture toughness*
> * High hardness
>
> **Typical Uses of ZrO2**
>
> * Precision ball valve balls and seats
> * High density ball and pebble mill grinding media
> * Rollers and guides for metal tube forming
> * Thread and wire guides
> * *Hot metal extrusion dies*
> * Deep well down-hole valves and seats -Powder compacting dies
> * Marine pump seals and shaft guides
> * Oxygen sensors
> * High temperature induction furnace susceptors
> * Fuel cell membranes
> * *Electric furnace heaters over 2000°C in oxidizing atmospheres*
>
> **Zirconium oxide**
>
> Zirconium oxide is used due to its polymorphism. It exists in three phases: monoclinic, tetragonal, and cubic. Cooling to the monoclinic phase after sintering causes a large volume change, which often causes stress fractures in pure zirconia. *Additives such as magnesium, calcium and yttrium are utilized in the manufacture of the knife material to stabilize the high-temperature phases and minimize this volume change*. The highest strength and toughness is produced by the addition of 3 mol% yttrium oxide yielding partially stabilized zirconia. This material consists of a mixture of tetragonal and cubic phases with a bending strength of nearly 1200 MPa. Small cracks allow phase transformations to occur, which essentially close the cracks and prevent catastrophic failure, resulting in a relatively tough ceramic material, sometimes known as TTZ (transformation toughened zirconia).
>
> Zirconium dioxide is one of the most studied ceramic materials. *Pure ZrO2* has a monoclinic crystal structure at room temperature and transitions to tetragonal and cubic at increasing temperatures. The volume expansion caused by the cubic to tetragonal to monoclinic transformation induces very large stresses, and will cause pure ZrO2 to crack upon cooling from high temperatures. Several different oxides are added to zirconia to stabilize the tetragonal and/or cubic phases: magnesium oxide (MgO), yttrium oxide, (Y2O3), calcium oxide (CaO), and cerium(III) oxide (Ce2O3), amongst others.
>
> In the late 1980s, ceramic engineers learned to stabilize the tetragonal form at room temperature by adding small amounts (3–8 mass%) of calcium and later yttrium or cerium. Although stabilized at room temperature, the tetragonal form is “metastable,” meaning that trapped energy exists within the material to drive it back to the monoclinic state. The highly localized stress ahead of a propagating crack is sufficient to trigger grains of ceramic to transform in the vicinity of that crack tip. In this case, the 4.4% volume increase becomes beneficial, essentially squeezing the crack closed (i.e., transformation decreases the local stress intensity).
and the following post
> **Thermal conductivity:**
>
> * Diamond thermal conductivity: 1000 W/(m·K).
> * Copper thermal conductivity: 385 to 401 W/(m·K).
> * Aluminum: 205 W/(m·K).
> * Stainless steel 16 W/(m·K).
> * Granite: 1.7 to 4 W/(m·K).
> * Zirconia has a typical thermal conductivity of 1.7 to 2.2 W/(m·K).
> * Porcelain has a typical thermal conductivity of 1.5 to 5 W/(m·K).
> * Glass thermal conductivity: 1.05 W/(m·K).
### Rulon
As an aside, again from J-head with ceramic body instead of PEEK, specifically this post:
> Rulon was one material we used. I think it is a glass filled ptfe. The mechanical strength is far better than solid ptfe and it is easy to machine. There are many grades but Rulon AR for example will withstand 288 deg C.
but there are inconsistencies in quality
> Rulon i looked at a while ago, there are plenty of options with it, however the cost of some of these materials can be incredibly high, and in some cases availability is a serious problem, and the difference country to country is borderline criminal in some cases
> 7 votes
# Answer
Because PTFE doesn't transmit heat very well? The whole idea when using a PTFE tube (and this is just my understanding ... which could be wrong), is for the tubing not to transmit heat, therefore allowing the filament to pass through it without melting or at the very least, collecting a lot of heat along the way (which helps prevent jams). PTFE does a pretty good job of standing up to heat while accomplishing the task at hand. Ceramic does an *excellent* job of standing up to heat. The problem is, it will pass the heat along to the filament, most likely melting it, thus causing it to deform and jam before it gets to the hot end. This would then become a maintenance nightmare.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: hotend
---
|
thread-10934
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10934
|
How to change "home" settings on Ender 3
|
2019-08-31T12:33:28.350
|
# Question
Title: How to change "home" settings on Ender 3
I have just got an Ender 3, I got a friend to build it for me, as my hands are not great. Which means I don't know what bit does what.
My problem is when I click on home setting, my nozzle is in front of my base plate and below it.
I have watched every video I can find about the set up, but they all assume that bit is ok. I have changed the axis setting to put it on it but it doesn't save the settings and as soon as I hit home its off the base plate again. I don't want to go any further re-printing, so at the moment it's just an ornament.
What am I doing wrong?
# Answer
This isn't a matter of settings but physical adjustment (the endstop switches). Having the head home slightly off the bed in the X and/or Y direction is a *good thing*, because it means the Z homing can't crash into the bed if the bed height is misadjusted. On my Ender 3, the X axis homes slightly into the bed, but the Y homes such that the nozzle tip is in front of the bed. Note that normally you don't try to print at X=0 or Y=0 anyway.
As for the Z homing, you have to adjust the bed height ("bed leveling") via the 4 wheels under the corners of the bed to bring it to the right height. If you can't get it below the nozzle with the wheels all the way tightened, your Z endstop switch must be installed incorrectly. The Ender 3's Z endstop bracket is supposed to fit against the corner of the aluminum extrusion just below it so that it doesn't need adjustment, but it's possible to mount it incorrectly higher. This is a bad idea because if it loosens it can move. It might also be possible to incorrectly install it lower, in which case it would be misaligned because the machine screws couldn't be tightened down all the way. This is also a bad idea. Make sure it's in the right place.
As for actual bed height adjustment/leveling, there are lots of good guides to that and I won't try to reproduce/improve on them here. The "sheet of paper" method is very good.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-10860
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10860
|
Creality CR-10 extruder clicking and/or nozzle clogging
|
2019-08-25T20:21:02.023
|
# Question
Title: Creality CR-10 extruder clicking and/or nozzle clogging
So I am fairly competent with 3D printing, but this problem has got me stumped. I use a Creality CR-10 and I hadn't printed anything off for quite a while (maybe 5 or 6 months?) and I just recently starting printing again. I got a roll of somewhat cheap, but highly reviewed, filament that I have had for around a year that had just been sitting in a cupboard and went through the process of levelling and setup before starting a print.
I started to print a model and left it, expecting it to work as it usually does, but came back later and it had failed halfway; it stopped clean with no spaghetti or continuous extrusion. I started the print again and watched it for a few layers to make sure everything was working fine, and found that it printed the first layer off perfectly fine, but as soon as it started the second layer the extruder gear starting making a clicking noise like it was slipping and the filament wasn't being extruded any further.
I thought this could be because the extruder gear was worn, as it is only brass, and the teeth weren't biting the filament, so I bought a steel one and replaced it; but it's still clicking. I then thought it could be because the nozzle was getting clogged, so I took off the hotend and cleaned it thoroughly but that didn't fix the problem; even if this was the case, it wouldn't make sense that it is regularly completing the first layer before getting 'clogged'. I also tried printing at hotter and cooler temperatures, with and without the heated bed, and printing at slower speeds, but all of these attempts fail to fix the problem.
I did have a brief thought that it COULD be a problem with the model or gcode, as I did print of a spacer for the spring in the feeder which printed off without any clicks, and I also printed off a smaller version of my model (33% scale) which made the clicking noise intermittently and was affecting the filament but printed off fine in the end after I left it.
My final thought is that it could be the filament, as it isn't exactly new or expensive and was left for over 6 months, but before I buy a better roll I want to know if this is a viable reason for the clicking and slipping in the extruder. If anyone could help me out of give me any solutions I would be incredibly grateful. Thanks.
These are all my current settings in Slic3r:
# Answer
> 2 votes
Turns out the filament was the problem, I tried printing a model with a high quality sample PLA filament I had and it printed perfectly; one of the cleanest prints I've had. Never skimp on filament.
---
Tags: filament, extruder, creality-cr-10, filament-quality
---
|
thread-10910
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10910
|
Anet A6 assembly problem - remaining power cables don't match instructions
|
2019-08-30T22:54:35.223
|
# Question
Title: Anet A6 assembly problem - remaining power cables don't match instructions
I've just built my son's A6 and have connected all cables apart from the last power cables. The mainboard says hotbed line and extruder line but the cable says heatbed.
The cables are two red which are crimped together and two black crimped together.
All of the videos online show a different mainboard and connections. There are more connections than cables because the wires are crimped.
I can't get my head around which wires go where, any ideas?
# Answer
The manual appears to be available here, Installation Instruction\_Anet A6 3D Printer - Elektor
However, according to this comment from Hard copy of the build guide?, there is a mistake in the PDF of the manual, with respect to the heatbed, and as such, it is better to follow the videos:
> I find it is better to use the 3 videos:
>
> Only errors in the videos and i believe the instuction the Hetbed fixing plate i have build diffrently , rotated by 180 degrees vertical, since it is better for the belt and somewhere in the video during fixating of the end-switch and the blower he interchanged the screws.
However, looking at the manual, if it is to be believed, then be aware that *as well as* one connection for the extruder motor, there are two connectors *each* for *both* the extruder and the hotbed heaters:
* One for the separate heating elements, of the extruder and hotbed respectively, and;
* One for the thermistor sensor (both the extruder *and* the hotbed have separate thermistors).
This makes *five in total* for the extruder and the hotbed combined.
However, the power connections for the Extruder *motor* has four pins (in white at the top), whereas the heating elements for the hotbed and the extruder have two pins and are of a different shape (in green on the left). The sensor connections for both the extruder and the sensor have three pins (in white at the bottom), but it should be easy not to confuse them, so long as you follow the wires to check to which component they go to.
---
### Additional points to be aware of
From this comment in the same thread:
> I just built an A6 three weeks ago and with the videos it is really a breeze to assemble the unit.
>
> Just pay attention to the heat bed mounting plate as it is installed bottoms up in the video. The bar connecting the outer two plates where the heat bed is finally mounted should be below the plates, not above as in the video.
>
> Also, if you still have time, order some decent toothed belt, Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01, and toothwheels for the Y and X belts and replace the original pulleys, bearings, and belts before you even assemble the unit. I just changed mine last week and it does make a hell of a difference - with this little upgrades (cost me less than 30$ for everything - at Amazon) you upgrade from an okay printer to a really decent machine.
>
> The above are not the actual articles I've bought because I am from Europe where Amazon sells in different quantities.
>
> If you want to go on the safe side, grab a second power supply and two MOSFET boards to remove the high current from the mainboard:
>
> Last recommendation: get some 3mm borosilicate glass to lay (clip) over the heatbed. This will make the prints stick better and also provide a perfectly flat surface for the builds (still, you'll need to do the levelling)
>
> Glass: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Printer-Tempered-Borosilicate-2132003mm/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI
>
> When assembling the heatbed mount, pay lots of attention to the 16 screws. Tighten them one by one diagonally and move the bed around. If the bed feels stuck, loosen the last screws and shift the mounts around a bit. The lighter this mount moves, the better your prints will be.
>
> One thing that you must be aware: This printer is a great little unit, but it needs love, dedication and plenty upgrades. Out of the box it works okay, but with the upgrades it becomes a really good unit.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Thanx for the help, got it running now. The board in the pic is the older version, my problem was the wires for the extruder had been cut really short for some reason and not labled.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: printer-building, anet-a6
---
|
thread-10945
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10945
|
Printing with White pla, problems while printing a benchy boat
|
2019-09-02T09:38:54.833
|
# Question
Title: Printing with White pla, problems while printing a benchy boat
So I am having trouble with this white pla, I am currently printing with a tempature of 225 degrees and going lower worsen the printing, but what I find strange is that it is always the same area that screws up.
I am using a Prusa MK3S, and printing with this fillament: https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/filament/39-white-pla-filament-1kg.html
EDIT:
NEW INFORMATION, this only happens with my white pla. I have a Silver one, and it prints it perfectly.
Secound white print, see that silver pla is totally fine.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Even from the same manufacturer different colors of filament have (slightly) different properties requiring different settings of your slicer. But here it seems you have some underextrusion at this hight. Have you tried again the same file with the same filament and the same settings? It could be a fault in the white filament at that spot that (temporarily) clogged your nozzle.
---
Tags: pla, print-failure
---
|
thread-10936
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10936
|
Under extrusion... sometimes
|
2019-08-31T17:55:04.807
|
# Question
Title: Under extrusion... sometimes
You can see small gaps in the print which looks like under extrusion (see image below). What is the reason for that?
I've tried smaller retracting distances. Temperature looks stable.
Print settings:
* PETG from Extruder
* 245 °C Printing temperature
* 50 mm/s print speed
* 25 mm/s wall speed
* 30 mm/s retracting speed
* 1 mm retraction distance -\> stringing...
* Print cooling fan is enabled
Setup:
* E3D Titan Aero
* Duet Wifi
* 1,5 A Motor current for feeder motor
* 250 mm/s<sup>2</sup> feeder max acceleration
Slicer:
* Ultimaker Cura 4.0
# Answer
Here's your problem:
> * 1 mm retraction distance -\> stringing...
If you have stringing, that means that material that was supposed to end up as part of printed lines instead ended up somewhere else, leaving less material (underextrusion) where it was actually wanted. This particular test piece may not exhibit stringing, but it's likely that it occurred interior to the piece, in the infill region. Contrary to widespread(?) opinion, stringing here is not harmless. It's just not visibly ugly. But it still messes up the surface quality, and even more importantly the strength, of your print.
You don't say if your printer has a bowden extruder or direct drive. If a Bowden, the 1 mm of retraction is virtually useless; a typical Bowden system has more than 1 mm just of *compression* between the extruder gear and the hotend, meaning that retracting by 1 mm does not pull the filament back out of the hotend at all, and doesn't even relieve all the pressure that's pushing melted material out. I would recommend an absolute minimum of 5 mm for Bowden type extruders, unless your printer firmware has linear advance (Marlin 1.1.9+ or comparable features in other firmware) in which case you might be able to reduce it some. For direct drive, I don't have experience, but 1 mm is still probably too low; 2.5 mm is the believable recommendation I've heard.
In addition to retraction, you can further reduce material loss to stringing/oozing in the infill region by turning on Ultimaker Cura's "Zig-zaggify infill" option, which helps avoid in generating travel without retraction over unprinted area within the infill zone (see e.g. this issue). Turning slicer setting "combing" to "off" is an even more extreme option here. Of course make sure retraction is really on (not "retract at layer change", which is a separate, mostly useless option) and make sure "retraction minimum travel" is set low (something like 150 % of the nozzle width or less) to prevent retraction from getting skipped on short travel moves.
I also just noticed you wrote:
> I've tried smaller retracting distances...
This was probably based on erroneous advice. Reducing or eliminating retraction does not mitigate these sorts of problems; it creates them. The only reasons to reduce retraction distance are to fight problems with the extruder gear grinding down the filament after repeated retraction, and problems with jamming the path into the hotend due to pulling molten material back into the cool part where it then solidifies and jams. If you're not having such problems you should not reduce retraction. If you are having such problems, you should try to fix them in other ways that still let you keep the necessary amount of retraction not to have catastrophic print quality problems from material coming out in the wrong places.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I increased the retracting distance to 1.5mm. Speed was set to 30mm/s Printing temperature is still 245°C
The screw which is pressing the filament to the drive gear was too tight. So the stepper lost steps.
-\> No stringing and no under extrusion anymore. prints are looking good now.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: petg, retraction, underextrusion, e3d-titan
---
|
thread-5942
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5942
|
Help installing my Anet A8 printer to my computer
|
2018-05-08T13:23:53.930
|
# Question
Title: Help installing my Anet A8 printer to my computer
I am a complete noob when it comes to the 3d printing world. I just finished assembling my printer and I plug it into my computer with the included usb cable and nothing happens. My computer does recognize the printer being plugged in but it just says "unrecognized device in com 4". Nothing else past that. Somebody please help me with the following steps that need to be taken to get my CPU talking with my printer.
# Answer
Your question addresses (USB) computer connection, so that will be addressed in this answer. For connection to the printer, you need 2 things (apart from the apparent things as computer, printer and cable):
1. A working CH340 driver installed on the computer for USB communication with the board,
2. a piece of software to talk to the computer at a bit transfer rate the printer understands.
The cheap Arduino based boards rely on the CH340 chip for USB communication. You should check whether you have correctly installed this driver. These drivers are erroneous and prone to cause problems. Sometime re-installation works, once did work for me.
The SD card supplied by Anet contains a folder (on my SD card: `.\A8\A8资料\Software\CH340G Drive`) with the installer file of the driver. Once installed properly, you should be able to connect various applications to the A8, provided you use the correct baud rate of 115200.
All this said, **are you asking the correct question**? Why do you need to connect to a computer, as you can print just fine by putting sliced `.stl` files (`.gcode` files) onto the SD card (when inserted in the computer using the adapter) and reinsert the card again in the printer to select the file using the menu buttons of the printer. Printing from SD card is considered safer then printing via the computer over USB as the print will stop when the PC is shut down or crashes.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Try using the provided SD card and SD adapter with Cura to give the printer gcode. If your computer isn't communicating properly with your printer, you can just download Cura 14 (it comes on the SD card) and upload the configuration file (also on the SD card). You can then plug the SD card into your main board and access it via the LCD screen.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Most of the latest Windows 10 systems with high speed USB (USB3.0) fail to recognize USB to Serial connector (which is here: CH430).
Try with a decent self powered USB 2.0 hub that has been seen to fix a majority of USB 3.0 port issues, or try by disabling driver signature enforcement on Win10.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: anet-a8, usb
---
|
thread-10677
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10677
|
First layer prints too thin causing gaps everywhere
|
2019-07-24T16:41:12.393
|
# Question
Title: First layer prints too thin causing gaps everywhere
I'd assume insufficient z offset but some areas of the first layer look fine. I've been struggling with this problem despite lots of attempts including z offset, infill overlap, belt retensioning, etc.
Anyone else experienced this type of issue and have suggestions to fix it properly?
I'm using polylite PLA and a E3D steel nozzle. 60 °C bed temp, 230 °C first layer.
Edit: Print speed is 30 mm/s first layer, 60 mm/s normal. This issue occurs on the first few layers then the rest get increasingly better, with the final layer being excellent.
Edit2: Despite lowering the temp to 205--210 and increasing the z offset downwards, the problem persists, though to a lesser degree. Just gaps at ends of infill lines and between straight and circular walls. But seems it only occurs on the lower left and upper right (birds eye view) of the print.
Edit3: The lower left and upper right being further from the nozzle coincides with my removal process using the knife on the lower left and upper right.. Maybe this part of the problem I'll have to bend back in place?
Nozzle bed measurements below:
Edit4: Optimizing the Z offset according to the first layer thickness remained only a partial solution especially as my bed unevenness (1mm+) was past the auto-leveling limitations (\<0.5mm), but I found a great thread (link below) with a "correct" solution that worked for a lot of people! After I try this I will come back and write about my experience with the solution.
https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7904&hilit=bed+leveling+SOLVED
# Answer
> 2 votes
From the picture it is clearly seen that the filament is not flattened properly. This implies that your nozzle bed distance is too large. Try decreasing the gap by leveling the bed at temperature and have a piece of "A4" or "Letter" print paper between the nozzle and bed have a little friction when pulled.
Also reduce the temperature, 230 °C is too hot for PLA (unless your printer temperature is way off, but that is not very likely), try 200 °C.
Another thing that you could check is if the extruded length is exactly what is instructed to be extruded; i.e. calibrate the extruder.
# Answer
> 0 votes
White PLA is some of the nastiest stuff to print with, it's very impure. Could you try to make the same print, but with another filament?
230 degrees might be a bit too high of a temperature, normally PLA is printed between 215-225. Try to decrease and increase the temperature with 5 degrees to see if there is any differences as well.
Also, could you show us a completely flat, 1 layer print? Basically just a rectangle. Basically I want to see your first layer height.
---
Tags: print-quality, pla
---
|
thread-10937
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10937
|
Problems with under extrusion and clogs on CR-10
|
2019-08-31T18:16:16.677
|
# Question
Title: Problems with under extrusion and clogs on CR-10
I've asked a question before on the extruder gear clicking on my CR-10, but I'm certain its because of the nozzle getting clogged for some reason. I'm using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle with white PLA and randomly during the print the extruder gear starts clicking on the fast parts and then under extrudes the rest of the print, eventually the hobbed gear digs away at the filament and doesn't grip anymore. Why would the nozzle keep getting clogged? Could it be because the filament isn't high enough quality and is leaving particles in the nozzle?
Additionally, when I performed a cold pull after breaking up the blockage on the inside, the filament came out like a thin film even though it was purging fine before I cooled it down. Why?
* 190 °C nozzle temperature (tried printing at 210 °C and the filament burned)
* 50 °C bed temperature
* 60 mm/s speed, outline 50 % - first layer being 30 mm/s
* 0.2 mm layer height
This starting happening after I returned to printing after a 6 month break, with the filament being stored in a cool and dry cupboard for around a year (the filament was on the cheaper side, but still highly recommended by SUNLU)
# Answer
Turns out the filament was the problem, I tried printing a model with a high quality sample PLA filament I had and it printed perfectly; one of the cleanest prints I've had. Never skimp on filament.
> 2 votes
# Answer
White PLA is usually some of the worst stuff to print with, generally avoid it. I would say. I myself are having a lot of problems with it as well.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: nozzle, creality-cr-10, underextrusion
---
|
thread-7140
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7140
|
FreeCAD to design moving parts
|
2018-10-08T19:40:38.577
|
# Question
Title: FreeCAD to design moving parts
I am trying to create a mechanism with moving parts, and would like to see how it works (whether it even works) before printing it.
For example, there's a servo with a bracket, and I would like to see how far can the bracket move before colliding with other objects.
Unfortunately I cannot find any information on how to set pivot points and rotate objects around these points in FreeCAD. Is this even possible?
# Answer
freeCad has a draft rotate function in **DRAFT workbench**:
1. Select an object;
2. Press the Draft Rotate button, then;
3. Click to set the rotating point and rotate.
You will get used to that after a few trails.
There is a step by step guide on freeCad site.
There is also a short demo of the function here.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I would also like to take a look at the A2plus Workbench (Freecad Addon). There you can define constraints which can help with this problem. As far as I know, parts cannot be moved with the mouse pointer, but angle parameters can be entered.
https://freecadweb.org/wiki/A2plus\_Workbench
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, mechanics, freecad
---
|
thread-10951
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10951
|
Uneven layers- Ender 3
|
2019-09-02T19:09:14.157
|
# Question
Title: Uneven layers- Ender 3
I got my ender 3 about a month ago, it was working fine. Tried a new brand, overture, this is when I started experiencing problems. First, I was clogging nozzles left and right, then I went back to hatchbox, and my layers are messed up...
# Answer
I wonder if this problem is unrelated to your material or printer, and purely a matter of slicer breakage. Have you tried printing gcode files you created before the problem appeared? If you use Cura and upgraded it, you might have hit one of the bugs where it assumes by default you have 2.85 mm filament, even though your printer actually uses 1.75 mm. That will create underextrusion that has the whole printed object coming apart like an unravelling mummy. When I've seen it happen, it looks very similar to your picture.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Seems like in Movement without displaycement in x and y it seems to fit (neck-area). I also would check your belts. There may be a bit too much friction. Otherwise have you made some Testprints (calibration cube, boat)?
Especially the base looks bad. But it is not a cylinder or?
If you want, you may show us your 3dModell (rendered)
> 0 votes
# Answer
Have you replaced your extruder stepper assembly with a metal one? I had a similar issue after a month of printing on my ender 3 because the plastic part had worn through and was causing drag on the filament.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-10875
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10875
|
What is the 3D printer filament (or pellet) most resistant to bending at high heats?
|
2019-08-27T12:28:00.053
|
# Question
Title: What is the 3D printer filament (or pellet) most resistant to bending at high heats?
I'm looking to 3D print a structure that won't deform in high heat, up to about 220 °C. The filament itself can be 3D printed all the way up to about 380 °C.
PEI seems like it could be a viable option. I found some here. This PEI filament specifies the glass transition temperature at 217 °C.
Would this filament work? Are there any other types of materials that would fulfill this engineering requirement?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Your expected operating temperature exceeds the glass transition temperature by 3 °C. This implies that the structure will become weak and can deform under load.
Note that you cannot simply print PEI on a normal machine, it requires a special high temperature capable printer with hot end temperatures up to 400 °C and heated bed over 120 °C up to 160 °C, furthermore it will need a heated chamber (up to about 80 °C) which requires special care to cooling and placement of electronics and motors.
Not having specified what kind of structure you require, you could look into steel.
# Answer
> 2 votes
**PEEK** is also used in applications where dimensional stability (and/or chemical resistance) over a wide range of temperatures is desired. The requirements for printing are similar to those for PEI.
# Answer
> 1 votes
An easier but less simple solution might be to make a PLA 'pattern' that is the right size and shape, then use that to cast your item in aluminium (melting point ~ 660C) using the 'investment' or 'lost PLA' process.
Links:- https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Lost-PLA-Investment-Casting-Aluminium/
---
Tags: filament, filament-choice
---
|
thread-10963
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10963
|
When should I replace the nozzle on my printer?
|
2019-09-04T03:31:14.850
|
# Question
Title: When should I replace the nozzle on my printer?
I have what I assume to be a brass nozzle, and I only print in PLA. I am starting to have some issues with first layers and stringing. I'm wondering if I should replace the nozzle. What signs should I look for to know when to replace the nozzle?
# Answer
> 8 votes
Replacing the nozzle depends on many things,
* the nozzle material (copper/brass, steel, hardened steel, Olsson Ruby Nozzle),
* the type of filament you print,
* how frequently you use the 3D printer.
To replace a nozzle, there are probably a few reasons for doing so. A nozzle can wear out (*see: How to identify nozzle wear; not only from the friction of standard filament, but especially when used with abrasive filament like glow-in-the-dark PLA, and glass or carbon fibre filled filament*) causing the outer shape and the inner nozzle diameter to change size. This can result in lower quality prints or difficulty in getting the print to stick to the bed. Having a metal wire or drill bit of the diameter of the nozzle will tell you if the hole itself has worn out. Sometimes, a visual inspection may sometimes be enough for you to tell that it has worn out:
<sup>(source: filament2print.com)</sup>
Please note that an interesting video is posted by Stefan from CNC Kitchen on nozzle wear:
Nozzles can collect burned particles inside, partly clogging the nozzle, causing the extrusion to be non-ideal. A sign for this is when the filament is not leaving the nozzle straight when freely extruded at height, but curls up.
Furthermore, when used frequently, nozzles can get coated with filament which is sometimes hard to remove. This sometimes causes freshly extruded filament to stick to the nozzle, certainly if it curls up like mentioned before.
Note that nozzles are very cheap with respect to the complete assembly and replacing them is a matter of 2 minutes work. So if you're unsure about how to improve the quality of printing after having tried fixing flow rate and nozzle to bed height, you could replace the nozzle, see e.g.:
<sup>(source: The 3D Print General)</sup>
Depending on the quality of the nozzle and the filament, a nozzle replacement for one brand might be necessary much sooner than for another printer. E.g. my Ultimaker 3E has literally printed kilometers of PETG without the need to replace the nozzle (or "core" as it is called for this printer), while the brass nozzle of my first cheap, now dust collecting, Anet A8 printer has been replaced a few times.
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Tags: nozzle, fdm
---
|
thread-371
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/371
|
How to identify nozzle wear?
|
2016-01-22T03:53:15.250
|
# Question
Title: How to identify nozzle wear?
E3D-Online and Make Magazine have written about the potential damage printing carbon fiber and glow-in-the-dark filaments can do to your printer's nozzle.
What I can't seem to find is what clues or warning signs to be on the lookout for if your nozzle has taken a significant amount of wear. I've printed a few hundred grams of glow filament personally and have not noticed any change in print quality.
E3D says you may have "unpredictable, erratic printing" with a worn nozzle. Can anyone explain or provide examples of this and when a replacement is necessary?
# Answer
> 15 votes
I believe the little experiment made by E3D - the same link you provide - answers your question very well. Several points about wear can be found in this article. After printing only 250 grams of ColorFabb XT-CF20 (carbon fiber filament):
* The nozzle diameter had increased markedly
* The inner walls of the orifice (opening) showed deep sharp ridges and grooves
* The tip of the nozzle had become critically rounded, and shortened
All of these symptoms were found repeatedly for standard brass nozzles.
In particular, I believe the last of these symptoms may be the one most easily identifiable without accurate measuring equipment (and without observing print quality).
With regards to reduction in print quality, these symptoms could be simulated by:
* Setting the nozzle diameter too big in your slicer
* Leveling your bed too high (the rounded tip will also reduce the length of the tip)
* Printing with a partial clog that interruptus normal filament flow (due to the grooves and ridges)
Exactly what this will look like on your printed part is hard to predict, but I would assume you could see blobs, under-extrusion, poor layer adhesion, as well as an irregular surface finish of your top layers.
# Answer
> 8 votes
One of the things I look for is if you pull the print head a good ways off the bed and have it extrude. It should just squirt plastic straight down. If it bends sharply in one direction, or even curls back on itself, then that is a sign of damage.
# Answer
> 1 votes
**TL;DR** You could compare the nozzle to a similar new nozzle to look for wear.
---
The creators of the Olsson Ruby Nozzle have published some pictures of wear on brass, steel and hardened steel nozzles. From their website the following image is taken:
Depending on the amount of filament that is being printed, not only the internal dimensions, but also the outer dimension change considerably. This is clearly visible in the images. Comparing your nozzle to a similar new nozzle might give you an idea of the wear of your nozzle. It is expected that long before the nozzle reaches this state, you need to readjust the bed to nozzle distance and the flow modifier, you will see this in the quality of your prints and the first layer sticking to the bed. So, the more (frequent) you need to tinker to get the print to stick or to print successfully and dimensionally correct, the bigger the change your nozzle has worn.
# Answer
> 1 votes
According to
the inner diameter doesn't change much, but, as said by @0scar, the nozzle shortens and at the end you get to the inner cavity.
Check the length and you are done.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You can check for shortened nozzle length using a set of feeler gauges to measure the gap from bed to nozzle. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler\_gauge
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Tags: maintenance, carbon, nozzle
---
|
thread-10970
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10970
|
What is the MKS Base AUX header connector type?
|
2019-09-04T21:13:12.973
|
# Question
Title: What is the MKS Base AUX header connector type?
I'm looking to crimp wires to the AUX-1 and EXP pins of my MKS base. For sanity reasons, i cant directly use Dupont jumpers, they keep coming out.
*BIQU MKS-Base V1.6 Plate Controller Board for 3D Printer Ramps 1.4*
In the above product image, the type of housing is the "black" colored headers on the board, around the top left corner of the board. Each header has ~10 male pins inside of it
Most of the other pins are of JST-XH type, for anyone else wondering.
# Answer
You need a 2.54 mm pitch (similar pitch to Dupont) female IDC (insulation displacement connectors on a ribbon cable) connector of 2x5P (pins) for the header connectors that have a notch. (for comparison, note that e.g. RAMPS 1.4 has 2x5p dupont headers on the shield for the AUX headers, not the notch type headers)
These connectors are usually crimped onto flat ribbon cables and used to connect the display to the board. These connectors have a rectangular notch to fit the gap in the housing to correctly position the cable (which the 2x5P Dupont don't have).
For reference/difference, an image of the Dupont 2x4P and 2x5P is shown below, highlighting both sides ("up" on the left, "down" on the right):
> 6 votes
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Tags: wiring, wire-type
---
|
thread-10974
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10974
|
Is it possible extrude faces along normals individually in OpenSCAD?
|
2019-09-06T05:17:45.427
|
# Question
Title: Is it possible extrude faces along normals individually in OpenSCAD?
For the geometry I am making, I want to extrude each face individually along its normal.
This is a standard procedure in 3D modeling software like Blender; see Example 3 here.
Is this possible in OpenSCAD?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Extruding faces is only possible on 2D polygons. From a 3D object you cannot capture the face and extrude it. To extrude "faces" you would need to define the shape of the face and extend it in the third dimension of your choice. This way a 3D shape is created that could be concatenated (joined using e.g. `union`) to the original shape. For the extrusion, the function `linear_extrude` is available:
```
linear_extrude(height = fanwidth, center = true, convexity = 10, twist = -fanrot, slices = 20, scale = 1.0, $fn = 16) {...}
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
For extruding a single face, as long as you can know the plane the face is in, you can `projection` it to a 2D shape then `linear_extrude` that. In general you need the `cut=true` variant of `projection`, and you need to translate/rotate the object to be projected such that the face is in the XY plane (this is the "as long as you can know") part. Unfortunately this is subject to numerical instability, so you probably have to translate it by an extra 0.001 or so to *cross* the XY plane, in which case you'll end up with an approximation of the face rather than an exact version of it.
(Strictly speaking OpenSCAD doesn't have exact things anyway, except in the case of faces sharing points in a `polyhedron`, so this limitation probably doesn't make the situation any worse than it already is in OpenSCAD).
Once you have the projection, you can `linear_extrude` it in any direction you want, manipulate the result (e.g. skew with a transformation matrix), and rotate and translate it back onto the face. It should be possible to wrap up this whole operation into a `module` that operates on its child\[ren\].
Another approach would be capturing a thin slice around the face manually via `intersection`, then performing a `hull` with a translate of itself, but this will only work if it's convex (otherwise `hull` will fill in the convex hull of the 2D face shape too).
# Answer
> 1 votes
Built-in to the language and its CSG model, no - processing the CSG tree is a completely separate phase following execution of the functional language, and there is no way to "read back" anything from the conversion of the model into faces in order to operate on the faces.
However, you can do this if you're willing to do some heavy lifting yourself, or look for library code from someone else who's already done it. What it would involve is working out a description form of your own in terms of nested lists representing the model, with a module for converting the list to an OpenSCAD CSG tree. You can then write functions to manipulate this description in arbitrary ways, essentially reinventing the CSG phase of OpenSCAD within its own language. Some lesser versions of this have definitely been done in the past for things like implementing "loft" type functionality in OpenSCAD.
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Tags: 3d-models, openscad
---
|
thread-10973
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10973
|
Smooth finish on large parts
|
2019-09-05T22:47:47.083
|
# Question
Title: Smooth finish on large parts
I would like to print a vase that has a width/length/height footprint of 100x100x200 mm, and the surface finish is of particular interest to me. Ideally, I would like to do a minimum of sanding/XTC-3D coating after printing, if any.
What would be the best material to work with?
# Answer
> 4 votes
## From the printer...
Non-post-processed surface smoothness of a print is mainly a function of the Layer height during print: it is smoother if one reduces the height of the steps taken between the layers. A very good **FDM** machine can achieve down to 0.05 mm layer height, but 0.1 mm is what most hobbyist machines can achieve if well dialed in. **SLA** printers cure resin in layers down to 25 micron reliably and some can get down to 12.5 micron - a quarter of the best achievable FDM.
Reducing the layer height in FDM comes at the cost of mainly three factors:
* Print time increases roughly antiproportional to the layer height. 0.1 mm is about double the print time of 0.2 mm and so on.
* The prints tensile strength gets reduced by increasing the number of layers increases, creating additional possible weakpoints.
* The thinner the layer, the more susceptible the print is to errors like clogged nozzles or variations of the filament thickness.
SLA printers are not affected by the print strength loss and the errors from clogged nozzles and can print entirely clear material without air inclusions. They are affected by the print time increase though. Usually, SLA prints come out of the vat covered in residual resin and curing them in the proper post-processing method results in this resin smoothing over the surface perfectly.
## Simple Postprocessing...
Many prints can easily be post-processed.
### Sanding
PLA and ABS can be easily sanded down to somewhat smooth, but you'll need to spend time and muscle grease or go electric. A sander with 300+ grit can help a lot. If you have a rotational body, you could sand the vase on a lathe.
### Putty
A plastic putty could be smeared over the stepped surface to smooth it and then sanded smooth. I personally like Valejo plastic putty, as it doesn't shrink, but Tamya putty also is a good alternative, bonding strong.
### Primer-Filler
Independent of the base material, using a spray coating can easily fill in the notches and crannies left behind during printing. Printing in 0.15 mm and giving it a short spray coat of primer-filler twice, sanding over rough spots between did a good job of smoothing prints for me.
### Vapor Smoothing
If you chose ABS, you could use Acetone vapor to smooth over the surface of a print in almost an instant. This can achieve Super smooth results with tall layer heights, as you practically melt the plastic over, but it comes at the loss of small surface details.
Exposure time is the limiting factor here: the longer the exposure to the acetone vapor, the more the surface is smoothed and the less details remain. Think of exposure time like running the `smooth` filter in blender once or twice each second.
Similarly, ethylacetate or propylene carbonate could be used for PLA prints, though timing might differ from the well established "a couple of seconds" for acetone vapor. Note that these two chemicals are much more expensive.
### Costs
Checking prices, I was quoted about 90 €/l for (chemical grade) Ethyl Acetate and 130 €/l for (chemical grade) Propylene Carbonate via a laboratory supply. Useable Acetone (not chemical grade) comes about 3.70 €/l in home depot. For comparison: chemical-grade Acetone comes with a price tag of about 50 €/l.
Considering that ABS filaments and PLA filaments typically price similarily, ABS+Acetone Vapor is the least costly chemical Vapor smoothing.
---
Tags: surface, smoothing, large-format
---
|
thread-10695
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10695
|
Proper hotend heater for Reprap x400 Pro V3
|
2019-07-26T09:06:57.497
|
# Question
Title: Proper hotend heater for Reprap x400 Pro V3
I'm trying to verify the correct hotend heater for a Reprap x400 Pro V3. I know a 12 V 40 W doesn't work. A working heater measures 4.4 Ω, so I'm guessing it is a 12 V 30 W heater.
When I tried replacing a non-functioning hotend heater on a German Reprap X400 V3 with a new 12V 40W heater that heater also wouldn't heat. My guess is the circuitry shut off due to overcurrent. The thermistor temperature didn't change from room temperature, and the heater was not hot to the touch. Afterward, I plugged in the heater measuring 4.4 Ω and it worked.
The 100k sensors worked properly. A functioning heater resistance measured 4.4 Ω. The non-functioning heater measured 3.6 Ω. The new 12 V 40 W heater measured 2.6 Ω. Apparently, this model Reprap won't apply power to the heater if the resistance is wrong. I'm assuming this model needs a 12 V 30 W heater, but am trying to confirm this since I can't find a parts bill of material for this model. Used the following equation to estimate heater resistance (voltage^2)/power = resistance. This gives 4.8 Ω for 12 V 30 W and 3.6 Ω for 12 V 40 W.
# Answer
The part causing the hot point failure was the connector for the heater and sensor. The connector showed no sign of burns on the heater pins, but the square tubes (see attached image) accommodating pins from the other connector had started to straighten out toward its original sheet metal state due to heating from current. Bending the tubes back in place allowed the connector to work temporarily and confirmed the failure cause.
Details: After getting a 12 V 30 W heater, it also didn’t work. The hot point had stopped working because a wire brush had shorted across the heater terminals. Because a spare hot point worked, the failure wasn’t in the circuitry. The spare was a 12 V 30 W heater (from resistance measurements), while the heater on the failing hot point was a 12 V 40 W heater (from resistance measurements). This made me suspect that the heater resistance had shifted, and the circuitry shut off the heater. However, apparently both 12 V 30 W and 12 V 40 W heaters work on RepRap x400 V3. The brief short caused the bent sheet metal of the connector to start straightening back out of the bend.
> 1 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, hotend
---
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thread-8548
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8548
|
Can I dry PETG filament under sun?
|
2019-03-25T11:29:23.553
|
# Question
Title: Can I dry PETG filament under sun?
At the moment the outside surface temperature is around 30 °C. Can I put my PETG spools outside with a fan in order to dry them cheaply?
# Answer
> 6 votes
The simple answer is: **No**
There are two basic reasons for this:
* The sun will not get the filament hot enough to evaporate any moisture which has been absorbed.
* While sitting out in the sun, it will continue to absorb more moisture, which defeats the purpose.
On Matter Hackers, they give a very reliable way to dry filament:
> 1. Preheat your oven to 160-180°F (or 70-80°C).
> 2. Place spool in oven for 4-6 hours
> 3. Remove and place in an airtight container, preferably with desiccant. 5-gallon buckets with airtight lids from local hardware stores work very well for filament storage. You can use uncooked rice as a cheap desiccant.
>
> Filaments with lower glass transition temperatures (Tg) like PLA, use lower temperatures to dry. Lower temperatures also require more time to thoroughly dry.
>
> That’s really all that’s necessary to dry out your filament and ensure optimum material performance and surface finish.
>
> So if you have some spools that have been sitting out for a while and aren’t printing as well as they used to, dry them out and try again. Chances are they’ll be like new.
You can see in the write-up it states you need to get the oven up to 160-180°F (or 70-80°C). The sun will *never* provide that level of heat. It also states at lower temps it takes longer to evaporate all of the moisture. Placing the filament into an oven at the proper temps will ensure the best results short of buying a purpose built system like *PrintDry* which is also mentioned in the article.
# Answer
> 6 votes
Here is my suggestion for a cheap, well and temperature accurate drying manner of a filament. I've done it several times for PETG that is actually a very moisture absorbing filament and pops it up when using by ruining the job. Why not using your own printer's heat bed to dry the filament (PETG about 6 hours in 65 degrees of Celsius)? I can guarantee that it works:
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Tags: filament, quality, petg
---
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thread-10981
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10981
|
Power supply not working
|
2019-09-06T22:16:29.717
|
# Question
Title: Power supply not working
Yesterday during a print, the printer just stopped working and all motors and fans stopped. My printer is a Graber i3.
Just before that I saw a flare coming from somewhere in the extruder or from the power supply, I couldn’t actually see.
Checked the voltage coming into the RAMPS and it was 0 V, checked voltage coming from the power supply, also 0 V. Checked the voltage coming into the power supply and it was 217 V... that’s okay, the power supply is switched to 220 V.
Today I tried further troubleshooting, by connecting the power supply to 127 V and having it switched to that voltage, before that I disconnected the RAMPS cable in case it was shorted. The result was the power supply did not work, the voltage coming from it was 0 V.
Got in contact with the manufacturer since the printer is brand new and he is sending me a new power supply, but I do want to try to find the root cause of the problem, so I started looking for shorts in the RAMPS, hotbed is okay, no continuity. Neither of the other connections have shorts, until I got to the hot end heating cartridge, in this convection I found 5 Ω resistance between phases. This was at first no surprise because it makes sense since it’s a heating element, but wanted to make sure, is it okay to have this resistance in the cartridge?
Do you guys have any other suggestion for troubleshooting or possible root causes for this issue?
UPDATE 02/OCT/2019: I decided to open the power supply, so maybe I could fix it and have it as a back up. First thing I see once opened, the fuse was blown! So I replaced it, since it is soldered and it is a 8A 250V 3x10mm, which happens to be hard to find... took quite a while. Once the repair was done, plugged it in and boom, another firework happened, this time blowing a resistor and not the fuse.
**Conclusion**: *it wasn’t the fuse*, another thing caused the first and second shortening.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I would expect the root cause to simply be the power supply itself.
5 Ω is a reasonable resistance for a 12 V / 30 W heater. It seems strange that you are not seeing continuity in the heated bed as this should also have a low resistance (since it's a heater as well). This might be worth investigating further, but I think it's more likely the power supply itself is the cause (and you simply made a measurement error).
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Tags: troubleshooting, hotend, power-supply
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thread-7131
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7131
|
What is the point of diminishing returns on the STL refinement level in Fusion 360 on an Ender 3?
|
2018-10-07T09:24:54.037
|
# Question
Title: What is the point of diminishing returns on the STL refinement level in Fusion 360 on an Ender 3?
When exporting an STL from Fusion 360, one must select an STL refinement level to use for calculating the maximum triangle count.
For FDM printing (*0.05mm and above layer heights*), where is the point of diminishing returns on STL refinement level when printing PLA and PETG on an Ender 3 with a 0.4mm nozzle? All mechanical components on the printer are stock.
# Answer
> 6 votes
I don't know that this can be definitively answered for a specific printer and all arbitrary designs.
The refinement level basically determines how smooth a curved surface will turn out. The STL file format can only express an object in terms of triangular-shaped surfaces, so Fusion 360 will need to approximate a curved surface by breaking it up into triangles. Flat surfaces and straight edges can be represented perfectly, so they won't be affected. Low refinement will use a small number of relatively large triangles. On a part like your example, the cylindrical shaft will have noticeable facets. Higher refinement means a larger number of smaller triangles.
If you have "Preview Mesh" checked as shown, you will be able to see the triangle wireframe, and you can use your own judgment if it's "good enough".
Ultimately, higher refinement means longer processing times and larger file sizes. The final print time won't be affected much if any.
Personally, I always use high refinement. Even on my modest system, it only takes a few more seconds to prepare a multi-hour print, and maybe a few hundred kilobytes or a couple megabytes on my hard drive that I will barely notice. This is a small tradeoff to ensure the best possible STL definition.
# Answer
> 2 votes
STL file size should not matter these days as far as the memory and storage sizes are concerned. These are generally large enough (unless you have very large and complicated STL files of large dimensions), so saving an STL in low or high resolution should usually be a matter of megabytes. However, the higher the resolution the more processor calculation time is needed.
Fusion 360 defines the STL generation through 3 predefined settings from a coarse to a fine setting. Indeed, coarse settings may result in poor resolution regarding curved surfaces. If the resolution is more coarse than the print resolution, you will definitely see this in your sliced print as you can identify the triangles of which the STL file consists of.
As far as there is no clear objective `point of diminishing returns`, the question cannot be answered. But, slicing with a higher resolution than print resolution does not seem sensible, it creates larger files which cannot be printed to that level of detail. But there is no downfall other than larger storage space and computation speed.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If you print for example a thin wall cylinder vertically you cannot turn the refinement high enough to not see the flats on the surface. My triangle counts are 524 for Low, 828 for Medium, 2206 for High, and if you select custom and pull the surface deviation slider all the way to the left you get 6572 triangles. The Surface Deviation shows 0.004406 mm which you would think would be fine enough. (This is for a 12 inch diameter cylinder with a 4 inch height and a wall thickness of 2.4 mm. The numbers vary depending on dimensions.) However you can see this level of deviation in the surface of common FDM type 3D prints. For those who are Metric impaired this is a deviation of 0.00017 inches or about 2 ten thousandths. The situation I present is the best case for an FDM type 3D printer and for just about anything else this level of refinement would be overkill. This is partially some arbitrary limitation in Fusion 360 but it is more a characteristic of using STL files. For my purposes being able to specify a surface deviation two or three times more precise would probably eliminate the visible artifacts. Increasing the refinement to the maximum possible will slow Fusion 360 when it computes the STL file and it will slow the slicer down as well but other than this there is no downside to using maximum refinement.
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Tags: cad, stl, creality-ender-3, fusion360
---
|
thread-10980
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10980
|
Reasons for a PLA print not sticking to bed all the sudden?
|
2019-09-06T21:52:06.950
|
# Question
Title: Reasons for a PLA print not sticking to bed all the sudden?
* Plastic: Same Matterhacker PLA (filament I use every day)
* Printer: Anycubic i3 Mega (the one I use every day)
* Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1
I don't know what's causing it, I haven't changed any slicer settings to my knowledge, I haven't changed anything on the printers end, and I'm using the same filament I've always used. But for some reason, the first layer is simply not sticking. At first I noticed when doing a print the nozzle seemed a little higher than normal for the first layer, but then it started having problems where 0 % of the filament would stick to the bed and it would all just come off and turn into a mess. I've checked and checked, but I see no reason the printer would just start doing this now all the sudden when it's worked perfectly for a year now.
---
EDIT: Something I've noticed since posting this is that older sliced models seem to print just fine, which means there's something about the newser slicer settings that's causing it. I don't know what I would have changed though and/or how to restore to my original settings.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There are 3 general factors about print adhesion you always have to keep in mind:
* Have a sufficient surface for the print to stick. A pyramid printed on the tip can't print properly.
* Check the leveling of your bed occasionally and relevel the bed. By removing prints, one can easily unlevel it over time without noticing it.
* Clean your print bed from fingerprints and grease every so often. Fats are good separators between the print and the bed. Getting them off with Isopropyl alcohol or other solvents can restore print surfaces in an instant.
In this specific case, there are some hints that make the general things less of an issue though: Old sliced items print fine, newer not. This hints that you changed something in the print settings. Among the settings that are good for adhesion, check your old G-code for the following three:
* Bed temperature. I use 60 °C bed temperature for PLA and have good results on bed adhesion. Others print with 50 °C. However, going too low can make the plastic not stick well anymore.
* Extrusion temperature. When the plastic extrudes, it has to be molten enough to push out enough and cold enough to solidify within moments and stick to the surface of the bed. If it is too hot, it would be dragged along, if it's too cold it doesn't get to stick either. I use 190-200 °C for PLA.
* The `first layer height` might be different. I usually use 0.2 mm for this setting, no matter what the actual layer height is, and get good adhesion and not too much trouble with tiny unevenness.
* The reason might be a mechanical issue, in that the Z-endstops (in an Anycubic i3, there are two, hidden in the frame sides) might have bent, moved or misaligned over time. Check its positioning. If the mount is broken, there are replacement part designs.
# Answer
> 0 votes
This seems like a long-shot, but I've noticed at this time of year many 3D prints fail. We noticed 4 printers all went dead and had massive non-stick issues last year about this time. Turns out it was mostly around changes in temperature and humidity - the outside temperature changed inside AC settings/wind-flow, etc.
So, you might think through some of the meta-causes of where the printer is, and if temp/air/humidity might be just enough chaos to not make the material stick. Right in September, I start putting a light layer of glue down on the glass bed under each print or increasing the use of rafts...
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, pla, heated-bed, troubleshooting, anycubic-i3-mega
---
|
thread-10962
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10962
|
Ender 3 Pro Filament extrusion problems
|
2019-09-03T20:25:38.783
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro Filament extrusion problems
I run quite a few Ender 3 Pro's using the same slicer settings (Simplify3D), and just recently I have noticed a very odd extrusion problem.
I find that at about the same height on several printers the printer under extrudes by quite a margin. After that, it either continues to under extrude for the rest of the print or it will go back to extruding proper amounts of filament with no problem. This destroys the print and makes it both structurally weak and defective. I am wasting quite a bit of PLA trying to fix this problem so any help would be appreciated.
Here is what I have done so far:
* I first made sure that the hobbed gear is clean.
* I tried extruding the filament with a very hot temp (240C) there were no problems here and the filament extruded fine albeit, it was not on the bed, just extruding into the air to see if the problem was heat.
* I tried the same thing as above but with a low temp (180) this also proved just fine again extruding in the air.
* I calibrated my E steps per mm, those are fine and accurate.
* I tried increasing my flow rate to 118%
* I tried switching to a different nozzle
* I tried switching to a different hobbed gear
* I tried switching the mechanism that pushes the filament up against the hobbed gear
That's about it. Not sure where to go from here so if anyone out there can think of anything I missed, I would love to hear it!
EDIT 1:
As per @fred\_dot\_u asked, the elapsed time at the layer of failure is roughly four hours in. I have also attached a picture of one example of this kind of failure below. I would also like to mention that this is happening on several of these printers as I have 18 printers running in one room. Our current theory is that the power draw is simply too high and so the printers are not getting the heat they need, however, the thermistors still register a solid 195C on my printers that are currently running.
EDIT 2: Here is another picture of a different model with the same layer failure problem but at a lower layer height. This model was printed along with 11 other identical models on the same bed, all of which failed at the same height.
# Answer
There's a known issue across Creality printers with the PTFE tube (bowden) slipping in the coupler on the hotend side, allowing molten material to push back around/up inside it rather than making it out the nozzle. I haven't experienced any such problem myself, even after applying some fairly serious abuse to that part of my Ender 3, but this video from CHEP claims it was the source of his problems and explains the issue well.
I believe my Ender 3 came with an extra replacement for this coupler; if yours did, and this seems to be the problem, you can see if the second one they supplied is better. Otherwise it's an easy component to source third-party replacements for.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Based on the image and your report that the problem consistently appears at the same part of the print, this is clearly an (either absolute or net) underextrusion problem, but (mostly) localized to particular layers. I say absolute or net because it might be extruding too little total material, or extruding the right amount of material but losing some of it to unwanted extrusion (oozing/stringing) in the wrong places. Either of these could be related to geometry of the layers involved.
One factor here is probably coasting, which you mentioned in a comment you have enabled. The small amount of coasting probably means it's not a big factor, but coasting always underextrudes. That's fundamentally how it works. You should not need coasting unless you've disabled retraction for some reason; it's a hack that's a poor substitute for part of what linear advance does on printers that support it.
You also mentioned a 60 mm/s print speed setting. At 0.2 mm layer height and 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, that's 4.8 mm³/s volumetric extrusion rate, which is roughly the limit of what you can expect to achieve with your printer's hotend. If you try to print faster than the hotend can keep up with, the material won't melt sufficiently fast to pass through the nozzle orifice. This will naturally slow it down allowing further melting to take place, but in the mean time the extruder gear will either grind into the filament or (much less likely, I think) the motor will skip steps.
Note that print speed settings control **maximum speed**, which is why you won't necessarily hit problems from having them too high right away, but only at particular layers. In prints with small details, especially with sharp corners, the majority of the printer's time is spent accelerating and decelerating between speeds far lower than the nominal/max print speed, and if you only reach an excessive max speed momentarily now and then, it might not continue for long enough for the material to cool down, in which case everything just works out.
Part of why I mention this is that, if you're trying to keep print time under control, setting a higher max speed might not even help you. Usually acceleration/jerk is the limiting factor to how fast you can print. Max print speed should be set according to the extrusion rate the hotend/extruder can keep up with, and print acceleration/jerk should be set according to the dynamical properties of the printer's axes. If you increase them too much you might get rough surfaces, ringing, or even skipped steps/layer shifts, but you can go pretty high. 3000 mm²/s is probably the absolute max I'd try on an Ender 3. I did this and had some success, but some failures; I don't recall what jerk was and it might have been a factor too. The Y axis in particular can't handle acceleration as well as the X axis can, due to having to move the whole bed, not just the hotend assembly. Somewhere between 500 and 2000 is probably reasonable, but I'd experiment a good deal before trying it on a long-running print.
One additional method to increase speed *might* be reducing line widths to less than the nozzle width. This proportionally decreases the volumetric extrusion rate the hotend has to keep up with. But I'm not sure how well line widths less than nozzle width work for outer walls. This may adversely affect part strength too, which might not be a problem for your particular usage case.
> 2 votes
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Tags: pla, creality-ender-3, extrusion
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|
thread-10993
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10993
|
Hotend drops to 175 ºC once extrusion starts (MINTEMP error reported)
|
2019-09-09T19:22:39.693
|
# Question
Title: Hotend drops to 175 ºC once extrusion starts (MINTEMP error reported)
Hotend drops from 205 °C to 175 °C, and then the printer errors MINTEMP. How can I fix this? Fan is not starting yet.
```
#define DEFAULT_Kp 28.65
#define DEFAULT_Ki 2.80
#define DEFAULT_Kd 73.33
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
```
MINTEMP is 5 °C? It's impossible it's getting that cold.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Sudden drops in temperature curves like in your picture are usually missing readings on the thermosensor:
Disconnecting the sensor from the board registers as min-temp of the sensor while shorting out as max-temp, so it triggers the mintemp/maxtemp security protocol: shutdown.
One could disable mintemp/maxtemp protection, but that wouldn't solve the issue. The issue is usually the wiring of the sensor. To find the fault, put temperature on the sensor but keep the motors disabled. Watch the read temperature. Move the printhead manually and slowly. If it suddenly drops and throws the error, you might have a faulty lead close to the printhead. If not, you need to open the electronics box to check if the connection to the board is ok. In the worst case, you might need to exchange the whole temperature sensor.
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Tags: marlin, prusa-i3
---
|
thread-10986
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10986
|
How to calculate the proper layer height multiples?
|
2019-09-08T09:17:05.357
|
# Question
Title: How to calculate the proper layer height multiples?
We all know, that the best layer hight is, when you have multiples of full steps. If it is not, sometimes steps get skipped and end up bad layer-to-layer adhesion when one height step missed a tiny bit and then the next catches up, creating an extra-thick layer. For example, this was printed somewhat deliberately, and here, the extra spaced layers are perfect for delaminating the print with just a fingernail:
The Ender 3 I have uses the following Z-Rod:
* Diameter 8 mm
* 4 flutes
* ca 13 Threads per inch
+ That is according to the table, a 2 mm pitch for *one* thread.
+ As a result, it's an 8 mm pitch for each of the 4 threads.
The firmware (Marlin) I use claims in `configuration.h` that the NEMA17 motor would be using 400 Steps per mm in Z. `configuration_adv.h` tells that the microsteps on the Z-axis motor are 16.
In the printer's menu, Babystepping is in increments of 0.049 mm (though some rounding error seems to be there: 5 Babysteps are 0.250 mm).
# Answer
> 8 votes
> that the NEMA17 motor would be using 400 Steps per mm in Z. `configuration_adv.h` tells that the microsteps on the Z-axis motor are 16.
Easy. There are 400 microsteps in a millimeter, and 16 microsteps in a full step. So, there are 400/16=25 full steps in a millimeter. So a full step is 1/25<sup>th</sup> of a millimeter, or 0.04 mm. Your layer height should be a multiple of this.
As your leadscrew has a lead of 8 mm (i.e., a full rotation will move the Z-axis by 8 mm), a full step is either 8/200=0.04 mm (for a 1.8 degree stepper) or 8/400=0.02 mm (for a 0.9 degree stepper). So, apparently, you have a 1.8 degree stepper (and this is the most common type of stepper).
# Answer
> 3 votes
I see you've already accepted an answer, but based on your comments I think you have some misunderstandings of the topic which are worth clarifying as part of answering this question.
> 0.2125 layer height (+1/4 microstep) and doing all the movements in absolute movements instead of relative forced the result, as the target heights were as a result at 0.2125 mm (for the stepper that's effectively a 0.2 mm), 0.425 (0.4), 0.675 (for the stepper that's, depending on rounding or truncting, 0.6 or 0.7), 0.9 (here they are both 0.9) and so on.
It sounds like your understanding is that the stepper driver is "rounding"/"truncating" to Z positions that are multiples of 0.1 mm. Perhaps that's based on the LCD status display of the Ender 3's firmware, which is based on Marlin 1.0 or something around that version, and shows current coordinates rounded or truncated (I forget which) to one decimal place. This does not have anything to do with the positioning limitations of the actual machine; it's just bad user interface design.
The actual firmware position is translated from the floating point value in the gcode to the nearest step/microstep that the stepper driver can represent. With full steps being 0.04 mm, microsteps are 0.0025 mm (1/16 of a step). All of these positions are "exact" in a logical sense, but of course subject to physical limits of the mechanical parts and accuracy of microstepping. On the topic of microstepping accuracy, you should read How Accurate Is Microstepping Really? Most if not all models of the Ender 3 have A4988 stepper drivers, one of the chips reviewed in that article. But the important part is that there's no rounding/truncation to whole steps taking place. Rather, the stepper driver is *trying* to position the motor in between whole steps by balancing the magnetic fields pulling it in each direction, with the goal of producing a linear interpolation between the two adjacent full steps. How well it does this is a matter of the quality of the stepper drivers and the load on the motor.
Back to your test, your layer height of 0.2125 mm is not one step plus 1/4 microstep. It's 5 steps (5 * 0.04 mm) plus 0.0125 mm which is 5 microsteps. This is probably a decent test - 5 is 1 mod 16, so you'll end up with a period-16 cycle of microstep positions, at 5, 10, 15, 4, 9, 14, 3, 8, 13, 2, 7, 12, 1, 6, and 11 microsteps mod the whole step. This is pretty close to a period of 3, so you might expect to see some irregularity from poor microstepping accuracy that looks periodic every 3 layers, or you might see it repeating only every 16 layers (every 3.4 mm). But regardless I would not expect delamination problems from this. I think there's another serious extrusion problem behind the photo in your question, and you should probably open a new question about what it might be.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis, knowledgebase
---
|
thread-8673
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8673
|
New use for extruder port
|
2019-04-12T19:41:16.177
|
# Question
Title: New use for extruder port
Is there a way to change the use of an extruder port on a 3D printer motherboard to move stepper motors (on y axis) on a 3D printer?
This is for a school project, and we have replaced the extruder with a laser for cutting material.
We were tasked with converting a 3D printer into LOM 3D printer, the laser is set using the fan port, however we still need two stepper motors to move material from one side of the printer to the other after each layer of material is cut.
The mother board we are using is WitBot MKS Gen L V1.0 Controller Board Integrated mainboard Compatible Ramps1.4/Mega2560 R3 with A4988 Motor Driver for 3D.
# Answer
If you are planning to use the printer via GCode entirely, then I don't believe it would be too complicated. For example, Marlin treats the extruder as another axis and uses absolute values for it (if absolute mode is on, of course). Since you want to have two steppers, you would have to connect them in either series or parallel (usually the Z motors are wired in parallel on RAMPS type boards, but many people are going for series since it has some benefits, one of them being that the torque will be much more similar between the two motors). Of course lower the stepper driver current to the minimum before connecting, then adjust it to whatever value you need. I don't think it will work too well if it has to keep the roll tight - in that case, you could be better off by using only one stepper and some kind of force to hold it tight... maybe a small DC motor at low currents?
You can modify your printer firmware and set your own pin assignments for everything, for example in Marlin you have the pins.h file where every pin from the Mega is mapped to different headers and drivers. I don't know if there is any LOM slicer or firmware available, but you could just use GRBL.
> 1 votes
# Answer
With the picture shown, the LOM printer could be almost controlled entirely with a standard printer's hardware and almost no changes to the firmware:
* Z controls stay the same, they control 7
* X & Y will be used for the laser mirror 4 needs to be controlled by 2 motors to follow 2D Contours. I would not use a swiveling one but a steady laser that targets a 90° mirror mounted so it moves with one of the axis that reflects it to the second 90° mirror that aims it down on the workpiece and is mounted on the second axis. This would be pretty much a Core-XY setup.
* Turning the laser on and off can - as said - easily be done with the part cooling fan control
* The E0 signal could be used to turn the material feed on both sides, though I would use only one motor. This stepper should for speed consistency be mounted springloaded and use a roller to transfer movement to the film coil 8, best on an area that is off-limits for the laser to cut in. As a result, I would let 1 spin on itself against some resistance like a spring-loaded bar keeping the film tightened, keeping electronic complexity to a minimum.
* Powering the heater can be done via the heater out of the board.
* To actually *move* the heater, I would use the E1 signal on a long axle, pulling the mounting for it from both sides.
This would create a simple order of operations:
1. `T0` \# Choose the material Feed
2. `E100 F100` \# Pull 100 mm of new material via the roller 8 from 1
3. Do XY movements with cut
4. `T1` to choose the heater movement
5. `E100 F100`
6. `E-100 F100` \# Fuse the film with an E1 movement back and forth (or alternate between these two lines to rest the heater on either side, speeding up the process)
7. `GOTO 1`
> 1 votes
---
Tags: extruder, stepper, motor
---
|
thread-11001
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11001
|
G29 Auto Grid Leveling Doesn't Do Anything
|
2019-09-12T08:48:42.980
|
# Question
Title: G29 Auto Grid Leveling Doesn't Do Anything
I have an Ender 3 Pro, recently added a BLTouch v3, flashed a bootloader, and I'm now attempting to configure TH3D U1.R2.15 firmware.
I have only modified configuration.h, haven't touched any other file, and configured it using the inline comments as a guide.
Everything seems to work ok, apart from it doesn't do a grid/mesh level before the print. G29 has been added just after G28 in Cura in the Start gcode box.
When I print something, this happens:
1. Bed + hotend heats up.
2. X/Y get homed.
3. Nozzle moves to the center.
4. BLTouch slowly comes down to probe the bed twice to set the level based on that one single center point.
5. Primes the filament and begins the print...
I'm not sure what the correct sequence is but I would have thought it should probe 9 points in a grid as I have set `#define EZABL_POINTS 3`.
Have I missed something in the config?
**configuration.h** (have omitted all other printer sections to allow stackexchange to accept the rest of the file)
```
/**
* ************** How to use this firmware - READ THIS, yes actually read this. *********************************
*
* Uncomment means removing the 2 // in front of #define.
*
* FLASHING NOTES:
* ALL slicers (Simplify3D, Cura, Slic3r, etc) or anything else that connects to the COM port must be CLOSED for the firmware to be flash.
* If anything is connected to the COM port when flashing it will fail, typically "access denied" is listed in the error section of the Arduino IDE.
* You MUST use the Included Arduino IDE to flash the firmware if on Windows and if you are on a Mac or Linux follow the guide in our knowledgebase to setup your IDE to work with the firmware.
*
* EZABL SETUP NOTES:
* If you have EZABL uncomment the mount you are using with the printer.
* If you have a custom/unsupported mount uncomment #define CUSTOM_MOUNT and enter your offsets
* below in the CUSTOM MOUNT section. Refer to the EZABL guide to get your offsets.
*
* STEP 1:
* Select the correct board from the tools menu for the printer you are flashing.
* Read the printer title for the model you are flashing, it will show what board to select.
*
* STEP 2:
* Uncomment the printer you want to flash. The printers are sorted A-Z by brand name.
* If you are using the Creality Dual board with the Ender 3/Ender 5/CR-20 then read the specific section below in that printer section on how to do this.
*
* STEP 3:
* Select the COM port your printer is on from the Tools menu. If you do not see the COM port try
* downloading the latest drivers from the manufacturer or TH3D site on our knowledgebase.
*
* STEP 4:
* Verify you have the correct board selected, printer model uncommented, and if you are using EZOUT and/or EZABL
* the lines you need to use them are also uncommented.
*
* STEP 5:
* Once you have your settings verified click the arrow in the upper left to upload to the board.
*
* STEP 6:
* Reset your eeprom. You can send M502 then M500 to reset the EEPROM OR on the printer LCD go to
* Control > Reset EEPROM to clear out the EEPROM to defaults.
*
* BOOTLOADER FLASHING NOTES:
* For flashing your bootloader with an Uno make sure to select Arduino as ISP for the programmer
*
* There are other features in the TH3D Extras section so look there for V6 Hotend,
* Bootscreen settings, Titan Extruder and more. You only need to edit this file.
*
* ERROR NOTES:
* If you get errors flashing READ the message it gives you and double check that you selected
* the correct board from the Tools menu in Arduino. Turn off any AV systems and reboot the computer.
*
* COMMUNITY REQUESTED FEATURES NOTE:
* All features in the community requested features section are provided as-is with no support from TH3D.
*/
#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 010109
//===========================================================================
//============================ TH3D Configuration ===========================
//===========================================================================
// ONLY UNCOMMENT THINGS IN ONE PRINTER SECTION!!! IF YOU HAVE MULTIPLE MACHINES FLASH THEM ONE AT A TIME.
//===========================================================================
// Creality Ender 3 Options - Select 'Sanguino 1284p' from Tools > Board
//===========================================================================
#define ENDER3
// If you are using our EZOut V1/V2 (connected to LCD header) filament sensor kit please follow the install guide
// and then uncomment the #define EZOUT_ENABLE line below.
// Do NOT ever connect our filament sensor without the supplied adapter board.
//#define EZOUT_ENABLE
// EZABL Probe Mounts (Ender 3 uses the same mounts as CR-10)
//#define CR10_OEM
//#define CR10_VOLCANO
//#define CR10_V6HEAVYDUTY
//#define TM3DAERO
//#define TM3DAERO_EXTENDED
//#define PETSFANG //This is the RIGHT mounted version - if using the left mount please use the CUSTOM_PROBE option.
#define CUSTOM_PROBE
// TMC2208 Creality Board Setting - uncomment this to set the driver type if you are using the TMC Creality board
//#define TMC_CREALITY_BOARD
//=================================================================================================
// README - THE BELOW SETTINGS ARE ONLY FOR USING THE CR-10S DUAL BOARD WITH THE ENDER 3
// DO NOT UNCOMMENT THE ABOVE #define ENDER3 LINE IF USING THE DUAL BOARD
// Select 'Arduino Mega 2560' from Tools > Board - NOT Sanguino
//
// To use the Ender 3 LCD with the CR-10S dual board board connect the LCD cable to EXP1 on the
// CR-10S board but rotate it 180 degrees. The LCD end of the cable goes to EXP3 on the Ender 3 LCD.
// You will have to force it into the EXP1 but it will fit and work.
//
// EZABL and EZOut support are still supported just use the lines above this comment section.
//=================================================================================================
//#define ENDER3_DUALBOARD
// Dual Extruder Board Options - The below options are for use with the TH3D CR-10S Board with dual extruder support.
// If you are using a single hotend with the 2 into 1 adapter OR mixing nozzle uncomment the below line
//#define DUAL_EXTRUDER_SINGLE_HOTEND
// If you are using a dual hotend with dual nozzles uncomment the below line
//#define DUAL_HOTEND_DUAL_NOZZLES
// If you are using a 2nd EZOut V2 (connects to Y+ connector) filament sensor kit please follow the install guide
// and then uncomment the #define EZOUTV2_DUAL_ENABLE line below. Do NOT ever connect our filament sensor without the supplied adapter board.
//#define EZOUTV2_DUAL_ENABLE
// Use Ender Bootscreeen instead of TH3D
//#define ENDER_BOOT
//===========================================================================
// ************************* END PRINTER SECTION *************************
//===========================================================================
//===========================================================================
// EZABL Advanced Settings
//===========================================================================
// If you want more or less EZABL probe points change the number below (only used if EZABL enabled)
// Default is 3 which gives you 3x3 grid for a total of 9 points. STICK WITH ODD NUMBERS
#define EZABL_POINTS 3
// If you want to probe in on the bed more than 15mm change this below.
// Do not use 30mm for the Standard CR-10/s or the S4 as you will be on the bed screws.
// Try 50mm to avoid the binder clips if you use them. Do NOT go under 15mm here.
// You can do down to 10mm on the Wanhao i3 since it cannot print on the entire bed.
// You can do down to 5mm on the Wanhao i3 Mini since it cannot print on the entire bed.
// (only used if EZABL enabled)
#define EZABL_PROBE_EDGE 15
// If you have issues with your machine running the faster probe setting disable the #define EZABL_FASTPROBE below.
// DO NOTE: Most machines will work with the fast probe enabled. Use M48 to verify accuracy.
#define EZABL_FASTPROBE
// This will disable the XYE motors during probing. Can be useful if you have stepper motors causing interference issues with the EZABL sensor.
//#define PROBING_MOTORS_OFF
// Heaters will stay on during probing - only use if directed to by support. Do not use on AC beds.
#define HEATERS_ON_DURING_PROBING
// Letting the bed heat recover between probes can increase accuracy due to the bed warping during cooling/heating
// Enabling the below option will let the bed get back to temperature during probing but will increase probing times.
//#define WAIT_FOR_BED_HEATER
// If you want a more granular control over the babystepping uncomment the below line.
// This will make the adjustment finer than the standard setting.
//#define FINE_BABYSTEPPING
// This will extrapolate the implied tilt of the bed outside of the probe area. Do not comment out unless directed by support.
#define EZABL_OUTSIDE_GRID_COMPENSATION
// Does your machine make weird noises/vibrations when it is probing the mesh? Enable this to slow down the speed between probe points.
//#define SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES
//================================================================================
// IF YOU HAVE A CUSTOM PROBE MOUNT OR ONE THAT IS NOT PRE-SUPPORTED UNCOMMENT THE
// CUSTOM_PROBE OPTION IN YOUR PRINTER SECTION AND ENTER YOUR PROBE LOCATION BELOW
//================================================================================
#if ENABLED(CUSTOM_PROBE)
/**
* Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).
* X and Y offsets must be whole numbers.
*
* In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:
* #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
* #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
*
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R <-- probe (10,10)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (0,0)
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
*/
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -44 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -7 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#endif
//===========================================================================
//******************** EXTRA FEATURES AND TWEAKS ****************************
//===========================================================================
// TH3D RGB LED STRIP ------------------------------
// If you are using the TH3D RGB strip connect to the Z+ endstop connection, power supply connection, and uncomment the below line
//#define TH3D_RGB_STRIP
// If you cut the strip shorter please count the LEDs that are left, uncomment the line below, and change the number below to how many LEDs you have.
#define TH3D_RGB_STRIP_LED_COUNT 20
// EXTRUDER SETTINGS -------------------------------
// If you want to change the Esteps for your printer you can uncomment the below line and set CUSTOM_ESTEPS_VALUE to what you want - USE WHOLE NUMBERS ONLY
#define CUSTOM_ESTEPS
#define CUSTOM_ESTEPS_VALUE 138
// If you are using an TH3D Tough Extruder, Bondtech BMG (set steps below to 415), or E3D Titan Extruder
// uncomment the below line to setup the firmware to the correct steps and direction. Also applicable to Titan/Tough Aero setups.
//#define TITAN_EXTRUDER
#define TITAN_EXTRUDER_STEPS 463
// DUAL HOTEND SETTINGS ----------------------------
// This is the distance between each nozzle tip when using a dual hotend like the TH3D Tough Dual Hotend or the E3D Chimera or Dual hotends.
// This setting only applies to printers using a dual extruder board.
#define DUAL_HOTEND_X_DISTANCE 18.0
// THERMISTOR SETTINGS -----------------------------
// If you are using an E3D V6 Hotend with their cartridge thermistor (not glass version) uncomment the below line.
//#define V6_HOTEND
// If you are using a Tough Hotend from TH3D or any thermistors TH3D sells for your hotend uncomment the below line.
//#define TH3D_HOTEND_THERMISTOR
// If you are using a thermistor TH3D sells for your bed uncomment the below line.
//#define TH3D_BED_THERMISTOR
// If you are using a Keenovo with SSR and the Keenovo temperature sensor uncomment the below line.
//#define KEENOVO_TEMPSENSOR
// If you are using a known hotend thermistor value uncomment the below 2 lines and enter the thermistor number replacing the X after the #define KNOWN_HOTEND_THERMISTOR_VALUE
//#define KNOWN_HOTEND_THERMISTOR
//#define KNOWN_HOTEND_THERMISTOR_VALUE X
// If you are using a known bed thermistor value uncomment the below 2 lines and enter the thermistor number replacing the X after the #define KNOWN_BED_THERMISTOR_VALUE
//#define KNOWN_BED_THERMISTOR
//#define KNOWN_BED_THERMISTOR_VALUE X
// If you want to make thermal protection periods less or more adjust below. The number is in seconds.
// If you are getting false thermal runaway then increase the protection time. Do not make it over 300 for either setting.
#define HOTEND_THERMAL_PROTECTION_TIME 60
#define BED_THERMAL_PROTECTION_TIME 180
// BED SETTINGS ------------------------------------
// If you want PID tuning on your bed you can enable the below line. But PID on a bed is not typically needed. By default BED PID is disabled.
// This will be disabled when using automatic or manual mesh leveling with a 1284p board due to memory limitations.
//#define PIDBED_ENABLE
// If you are using an AC bed with a standalone controller (Keenovo) uncomment the below line to disable the heated bed in the firmware
//#define AC_BED
// Stock bed max is 120C for this firmware. Enable this to allow temps up to 150C. Your bed must support this temp for it to achieve the higher temperatures.
//#define BED_HIGHTEMP
// MISC --------------------------------------------
// If you have a 5015 fan that whines when under 100% speed uncomment the below line.
//#define FAN_FIX
// Use your own printer name
//#define USER_PRINTER_NAME "Ender 3"
// If your printer is homing to the endstops hard uncomment this to change the homing speed/divisor to make it less aggressive.
//#define SLOWER_HOMING
// BOOT SCREEN OPTIONS -----------------------------
// Use TinyMachines Bootscreen instead of TH3D
//#define TM3D_BOOT
// Disable Bootscreen completely
#define DISABLE_BOOT
//===========================================================================
//****************** COMMUNITY REQUESTED FEATURES ***************************
//===========================================================================
// HOME OFFSET ADJUSTMENT --------------------------
// If you need to adjust your XY home offsets from defaults then you can uncomment the HOME_ADJUST_LOCATION line below and enter your
// custom XY offsets. This is provided for convenience and is unsupported with included product support.
// How to use - measure (home XY then jog using the LCD 1mm at a time) the X and Y distance the nozzle is off
// the build plate and then put those as NEGATIVE values below, positive values will NOT work (move your endstops to fix a positve offset).
//#define HOME_ADJUST
#define X_HOME_ADJUST_LOCATION -10
#define Y_HOME_ADJUST_LOCATION -10
// LINEAR ADVANCE ----------------------------------
// See here on how to use Linear Advance: http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html
//
//#define LINEAR_ADVANCE
// Change the K Value here or use M900 KX.XX in your starting code (recommended).
#define LINEAR_ADVANCE_K 0
// NOTE: If using linear advance along with EZABL on a printer with 1284p some Control > Motion menus will not be displayed due to space restrictions.
// You can still change these via GCode commands.
// BL TOUCH ----------------------------------------
// If you want to use the BL-Touch install your EZOut Board, uncomment the 2 lines below, uncomment the CUSTOM_PROBE option in your printer section,
// and then enter your probe offsets in the CUSTOM_PROBE section above. The Pin 27 boards on eBay are clones of our original EZOut. If you want to
// support the people that originally came up with the board you can get our EZOut breakout board here: http://EZOut.TH3DStudio.com
// Sales from our shop allow us to allocate time for community firmware development at no charge to you. <3
// If you have a V3 BL Touch also uncomment the BLTOUCH_V3 line to fix issues with the new V3 probe.
//
#define BLTOUCH
#define BLTOUCH_V3
// Here is where you set your servo pin. EZOut Servo Pin Numbers: Ender3/5/CR-10 - 27, Ender 2 - 29. For 2560 boards look for the pin you connected the servo wire to and enter below.
#define SERVO0_PIN 27
//
// NOTE: On 1284p boards due to space limitations and the large amount of code the BLTouch requires for the LCD Menus
// the Bootscreen and some Control > Motion menus will not be displayed due to space restrictions
// MANUAL MESH LEVELING ----------------------------
// If you want to use manual mesh leveling you can enable the below option. This is for generating a MANUAL mesh WITHOUT a probe.
// Mesh Bed Leveling Documentation: http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html If used with a 1284P board the bootscreen will be disabled to save space.
// NOTE: If you want to automate the leveling process our EZABL kits do this for you. Check them out here: http://EZABL.TH3DStudio.com
//#define MANUAL_MESH_LEVELING
// POWER LOSS RECOVERY -----------------------------
// Continue after Power-Loss feature will store the current state to the SD Card at the start of each layer
// during SD printing. If this is found at bootup it will ask you if you want to resume the print.
//
// NOTE: This feature causes excessive wear on your SD card. This will disable junction jerk, SCurve Acceleration, and Linear Advance due to RAM limitations.
//#define POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY
// MOTION SETTINGS ---------------------------------
// There are 2 new acceleration/jerk controls available in this firmware that can result is better print quality and
// smoother movement. To try each out just enable them below.
// Due to Anet board restrictions this is always disabled on those machines.
//#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION_ON
//#define S_CURVE_ACCELERATION_ON
//================================================================================================
// Language - This is provided for convenience and is unsupported with included product support.
// We only test compile with English language. If you run into space issues disable some features.
//================================================================================================
/**
* LCD LANGUAGE
*
* Select the language to display on the LCD. These languages are available:
*
* en, an, bg, ca, cn, cz, cz_utf8, de, el, el-gr, es, eu, fi, fr, fr_utf8, gl,
* hr, it, kana, kana_utf8, nl, pl, pt, pt_utf8, pt-br, pt-br_utf8, ru, sk_utf8,
* tr, uk, zh_CN, zh_TW, test
*/
#define LCD_LANGUAGE en
#include "Configuration_beta.h"
#include "Configuration_backend.h"
#define UNIFIED_VERSION "TH3D U1.R2.15"
#endif // CONFIGURATION_H
```
**Cura Start GCode**
```
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
G28 G29 ;Home
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
```
# Answer
G-code is read line-by-line, see e.g. Is G-code read line by line?. If the posted start G-code is the actual used G-code, `G29` is not executed because it is on the same line as `G28`. This means that in:
```
G28 G29 ;Home
```
`G29` simply is ignored (it is not recognised by the interpreter as parameters for `G28`). This should be changed into:
```
G28 ;Home
G29 ;Perform bed leveling
```
> 4 votes
---
Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3, bltouch
---
|
thread-10738
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10738
|
Inconsistent Layer Issues
|
2019-08-01T13:28:42.133
|
# Question
Title: Inconsistent Layer Issues
I was having some issues with printing, most noticeably in this picture:
The layers are very noticeable and sometimes have gaps, and the overhangs don't print very well (although the former is more of an issue). I just calibrated my E-steps so I don't think that is the issue. It was doing the same thing before I upgraded anything (i.e., I had issues on stock hardware).
My printer is an Ender 3 with the metal extruder upgrade (which replaces the plastic parts as seen here), an E3D v6, printed fan duct (Bullseye), glass bed, BLTouch, and vanilla Marlin. Pictures of it are also in the below album. The printed upgrades were printed on a Prusa MK3S and don't have the same issue.
I am using Hatchbox 1.75 mm gray PLA, printed at 215 °C with my bed at 60 °C. I am using Ultimaker Cura 4.1 but was also having the problems on an older version of Ultimaker Cura (maybe 3.6, but I can't remember which it was). The problems also existed with some Hatchbox 1.75 mm black PLA but I used the same roll on my Prusa MK3S without any issues, so I'm not sure if filament could be the cause (although it is a different printer so it's still a possibility).
I have tried at different printing speeds and the problem still persists.
I also recently tried varying the temperature during printing (first up to 222 °C then down to 200 °C) with no noticeable difference.
Extra pictures here.
Model is part of Printable Scenery's sorcerer tower.
# Answer
> 5 votes
The main issue here (the gaps between layers) was solved by reducing combing.
Combing was enabled without a limit on the range so a max combing distance of 10 mm was introduced. This prevented too much filament from oozing out during travels.
The oozing filament was causing nothing to come out of the nozzle at the beginning of an extrusion, thus creating the gaps that were consistent in location.
# Answer
> 4 votes
These lines could be caused by a mechanical issue with the printer; it looks as if the positioning is not up to par.
This can be related to loose belts of the X-axis and Y-axis, or play in your system, e.g. look at the rollers of the carriage.
---
*I've experienced an issue with play between the idler mounts and the smooth linear rods on a cheap 3D printer kit myself, but that is not the case here. Just added to explain where play may come from.*
---
Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-11003
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11003
|
Understanding water soluble support structures
|
2019-09-12T13:06:02.193
|
# Question
Title: Understanding water soluble support structures
I've just done my first print on an Ultimaker 3 Extended and I'm slightly disappointed with the results, so I'm trying to understand how I can do better next time.
## My first print
Preparing for printing I naively just dropped the two `stl` files into Cura, set the recommended layer height and infill, selected support (defaulting to Extruder 1), deselected adhesion, ran the slice, saved the g-code and started the print running. Luckily the head 1 did have the same PLA AA 0.4 filament that Cura assumed.
When the print finished, I stripped out the support structures, cleaning out the hollow, and cleaning off lots of stringy loose filaments between the lower support and the bottom edge of the print.
Even after cleaning up though, the overhanging structure above the support structure turned out to be very rough with many individual filaments visible and in irregular positions, rather than the nice concentric lines in the slice.
## My first attempt to optimise the print
Looking at the completed print I realised that there would have been only a fraction of the support structure, and probably clean edges, if the part had been oriented as a `d` rather than as a `p` (the rough surface being the bottom of the `p` overhang).
I re-ran the slice in `d` orientation and that saved 10 minutes of print time, and a 100 mm of filament, so I know I'll definitely need to look out for that in the future. I can also see how that would fix the problem with the external overhang separating out into loose threads, since that face would no longer be an overhang.
## Trying to add water soluble supports
After the first fix, I wondered what I could do with the second extruder and realised that it was filled with water soluble PVA filament. This made me wonder if this would have helped with the internal overhang.
I Configured Extruder 2 as PVA BB 0.4 and selected Extruder 2 for the support structures and re-ran the slice.
I was surprised that the it was now taking 40 minutes longer and using almost 470 mm more filament!
Looking at the slices, Cura had created a huge PVA scaffolding on the *outside* of the print, leaving the inside, where the previous PLA support had been, completely empty:
vs.
This was not what I was expecting.
## Questions
* Why didn't the slicing algorithm place PVA support structures inside the overhang, in the same way as it placed the PLA support structures?
* What is the reason for the external scaffolding, and how does it help support the internal overhang, which now has no internal support at all?
* Is the behaviour I expected possible, advisable or configurable in Cura? If so, what options should I be looking at, if not is there other software that does support this?
# Answer
Owning the Ultimaker 3 Extended and having printed kilometers of filament on this printer I can tell you that printing with PVA, apart from the slicing problems you mention, is not easy as it looks. PVA clogs up very fast and is very hygroscopic. Moist PVA will make popping sounds on extrusion and is prone to failing. PVA is not my preferred solution. An alternative solution is to use break-away filament, my colleagues have some reasonable good experience with that.
> Why didn't the slicing algorithm place PVA support structures inside the overhang, in the same way as it placed the PLA support structures?
The difference you report could be caused by the slicer settings. I get exactly the same results if you set the slicing parameter `Support Placement` to `Touching Buildplate` (first image), or `Everywhere` (second image).
vs.
> What is the reason for the external scaffolding, and how does it help support the internal overhang, which now has no internal support at all?
To answer the scaffolding part of your question, that can only be explained by being the decision of the developers. There must be very good reasons for doing it like this as a similar support structure is generated in other slicers, e.g. Slic3r (actually this is caused by a slicer setting, see this answer explaining why the scaffolding is caused). Some slicers do have options to change the support type, e.g. Slic3r has the option `pillars`, which creates pillars without external scaffolding:
vs.
> Is the behaviour I expected possible, advisable or configurable in Cura? If so, what options should I be looking at, if not is there other software that does support this?
Playing with the settings to reduce the amount of PVA as suggested in the comments by enabling the type of extruder for specific parts of the extruder I was able to create a solution without scaffolding. This solution only uses PVA for the bottom and top layer of the support structure.
The shown settings<sup>1)</sup> produce a support structure with PVA top and bottom layers:
or
Where the latter image is in material color; black PLA and natural colored PVA
---
<sup>1)</sup> *It might be worth mentioning that by default, the Support section doesn't show the Support interface extruder options and you have to go into Preferences and check the Setting Visibility option for those to appear.*
> 5 votes
# Answer
> What is the reason for the external scaffolding...?
Reading through the Ultimaker support page, I discovered that there is a *Support horizontal expansion* option in the *Support* section of the Custom Profile.
This appears to default to 0 mm for PLA, but defaults to 3 mm for PVA, which explains the difference in slicing behaviour.
If I set *Support horizontal expansion* to 0 mm, then I get the support I originally expected:
Ultimately though, the solution proposed by Trish and detailed in Oscar's answer using PVA just at the interfaces would be a *much* better solution, given the cost of PVA.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, pla, slicing, pva, ultimaker-3
---
|
thread-11009
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11009
|
My first 3D printing - I need some advice or tips
|
2019-09-13T15:34:26.373
|
# Question
Title: My first 3D printing - I need some advice or tips
It is my first time for 3D printing, I read some tips for forms, minimal thickness, angles, round or flat, but I am still not sure if I am going to do all well for the first time.
For my college final project, I had to make a small prototype and it requires an enclosure.
My concerns are:
* I am not sure if my design will require supports
* Overhangs
* Printing Orientation
Here part of my design:
* Most walls are 2 mm+ thick
* The lid is a separate file, but it is really simple just a flat rectangle, I believe it is going well the first time
# Answer
I see this:
> I had to make a small prototype and it requires an enclosure
and this:
> yes, it is hollow inside
How do you intend to get your item inside the result? This part really needs to be *two pieces* with *two separate prints*. Basically, a box and the lid, where you leave space for screws, include tabs, or plan for glue connections.
Finish that alteration, and the support issue suddenly becomes **much** easier. Most slicers have options to generate support for you, including limiting support to spaces between the model and build plate. Now you can rotate the angle at the which the part is printed in order to minimize your support needs, or so that most of the connection points for the support will not be visible in the finished product.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: support-structures
---
|
thread-10998
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10998
|
E3D V6 Original vs Clone
|
2019-09-11T17:41:31.980
|
# Question
Title: E3D V6 Original vs Clone
What is the difference between an original E3D V6 rather than a clone?
I know an original would have its own advantages, since there is a huge price difference between the two. Will there be a huge difference in the output? By considering the following:
* Print quality
* Printing Speed
* Maintenance
* Life Span
If anyone has used both, please share your experience.
# Answer
While most components (cooling body, heatblock, heater cartridges, thermistors) of knockoff e3d-v6 hotends can be similar enough to not notice in a large part, or at least functionally the same. Note that I don't say the parts are necessarily interchangeable - a lot what is sold under the name is not what it claims to be. The main distinguishing difference is the heatbreak: a proper e3d v6 hotend is hard to manufacture, so let's compare the designs of the real and the knockoffs.
# Original
e3D v6 heatbreaks are **necked** considerably and have a **socket with an airgap** to the cooling body in top to take the lining and prevent heat flow to the PTFE pipe. This makes it an "all-metal" hotend, because the **liner stops in the cold zone**, where the cooling block is screwed on, and thus gets the least heat to the bowden, allowing to print hotter than with a lined hotend. The cooling block and the heather block **threads are also not the same: M6 and M7.** They are flat at the front to securely butt the nozzle thread against.
Their internal and external geometry looks like this:
# Knockoffs
Knockoffs vary a lot how their heatbreak is constructed. Some are **lined** all the way through. Others are **pass-through** \- and neither is an all-metal hotend. Some knockoffs are necked but use the same thread on both sides.
### gallery of knockoffs
# Conclusion
If you print a lot of high-temperature materials, the need for a proper all-metal hotend is there. Many knockoffs don't do this necking properly or invalidate its effect by lining the hotend all the way through.
Note that the machining quality can be quite different.
Due to sizing, not all knockoffs allow to mount a genuine heatbreak with knockoff cooler and heater block.
> 5 votes
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Tags: print-quality, extruder, e3d-v6
---
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thread-10999
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10999
|
Very messy prints with lots of fuzz on edges
|
2019-09-12T06:20:21.207
|
# Question
Title: Very messy prints with lots of fuzz on edges
Recently my prints come out very messy. I tightened everything up and checked the extrusion multiplier.
I have an Ender 3 Pro which I use together with Cura 4.2.1 (and Octoprint). I print in PLA at 190°C. The print bed is set to 70°C. The Bed temperature is lower though, since I use a glas bed on top of the heated bed. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height is set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4mm from the 0.4mm nozzle. My retraction is 5mm at 45mm/s.
Does anyone have any idea what the reason could be?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I figured out the problem. I reduced printing speed and printing temperature and the print came out decent. Still some issues but worlds better then before. I will try a few more settings to determine exactly what was the actual Issue. I will also try what @Fernando Baltazar recommended and update here what exactly changed the printing quality.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-failure
---
|
thread-10967
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10967
|
Creating a heated chamber from a very large heated bed
|
2019-09-04T14:35:14.170
|
# Question
Title: Creating a heated chamber from a very large heated bed
In this instructable, a user creates a heated bed from a wooden plank, some nails, insulated copper wire, and a DC switch. He does place an aluminum bed on top of it, but for our heated chamber, we won't use any aluminum on top of these wires. We aren't trying to heat an aluminum bed, but an entire chamber.
Assume I place a wire loom like this underneath my 3D printer. (I might place some aluminum foil between the wood and the copper wire, to reflect heat upwards more? Is that safe?)
Then assume I have a cardboard box that has aluminum foil lining the walls on its inside. Assume the total size of my printer is 500mm x 500mm x 500mm. When I place the cardboard box over my printer, do you think it would take less than 1 hour for the top of the cardboard box to reach 60 degrees Celsius?
Do you think there are any other hazards here I am not considering?
Could I, theoretically, do this entirely with cardboard, and no wood?
Could I, theoretically, line the inside of my cardboard box like this? Or might the cardboard ignite?
I'd like to use cardboard because it is both lightweight and insulative. I can remove it easier to check all areas of my printer, unlike an enclosure.
# Answer
Cardboard is fundamentally paper. Paper ignites - just as Ray Bradbury claims - at around 233 °C or 451 °F.
A thin heater wire usually glows red hot under operation. Not dark red, not blood cherry, not dark cherry, it's usually medium cherry to dark orange in operation, as one can easily tell by looking into a trusty toaster oven, which also shows us how powerful of a heating element this is.
In a typical toaster, heater wires are mounted in a metal frame and backed by some non-flammable material that looks like paper but is not. In a 2004 patent for such a method, they use a sheet of mica. But how hot is our wire? Well, under mains power, the wire of a toaster reaches 700-900 °C within seconds, heating the inner chamber of the toaster despite the slots to about 200-250 °C so quick that the bread roasts deliciously... until the heat controlling bimetal strip releases it up.
We operate these wires for at best a few minutes. In an electric forge, pretty much the same wires with a little more thickness to them are run at lemon glow for hours... and they are embedded in firebrick material to prevent them from igniting stuff touching them by accident!
How we know the temperature? Incandescence charts of course:
# Conclusion
Paper or cardboard backing on heater wires is a bad idea. Mounting the heater wire to a metal frame that is as nonconductive as possible and without a chance that something accidentally touches it is needed. Fiberglass or rock material would serve as a good carrier, an aluminium block with radiators would give a good heating-to-surface mix, especially is precautions are taken to make the wire surface nonconductive.
Even using wood close to such a heater is a gamble I would not want to take. It's also best to mount the heating element into an enclosure that can't touch the wooden outer chamber and that stays put if the enclosure is opened or removed.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, heat-management, chamber
---
|
thread-11011
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11011
|
Two 12 V heater elements in series in a dual hotend
|
2019-09-14T01:35:33.537
|
# Question
Title: Two 12 V heater elements in series in a dual hotend
I have ordered a dual hotend Chimera and it came with 2x 12 V heater elements (in my rush I forgot to order the one with 2x 24V).
Is it possible to run these 12 V heater elements in series?
*I am planning on running this with an SRK 1.3 board.*
# Answer
> 1 votes
**No you don't want to do that.**
A 12 V 30 W heater has a resistance of about 5 Ω (2.5 A on 12 V). A 24 V 30 W heater is about 19 Ω (1.25 A on 24 V). Placing two 12 V heaters in series means about 10 Ω, for 24 V that means that the current is 2.5 A, similar to a 12 V circuit, the power will be 30 W for each heater. So it appears that this should work.
But, the problem is that being in series, both the hotends are heated. This is not beneficial for the unused core which is prone to ooze filament and can cook filament if not used for a long time (long stand-by high temperature). Typically, unused printing cores go to a lower stand-by temperature when they are not printing. Also it would be more difficult to have filaments of different temperatures in the hotends. Furthermore, which thermistor would you use? A hotend cools down by melting filament, the temperature drop is measured by the thermistor results in the control logic adding current to the heater to compensate the loss in temperature. If you only use one thermistor (basically, from a firmware configuration perspective, the setup is similar to having a single heater in a single hotend and having the filament being changed) and using the other core (without a thermistor) to extract filament, the temperature drop will not be registered and as such not controlled. There is no default firmware solution to use 2 thermistors in a "single" heating element (in this case strand of heating elements), this will probably require some modding to the source code of the firmware.
You could test this setup, but I would not use it for a long time.
# Answer
> 1 votes
## This will not work as you intend.
The heaters are designed to be independent. They do not share a thermal path between them. The thermal load on the two extruders will be different whenever one nozzle is active and the other on standby, and there is no condition when both are extruding at the same time.
The two thermistors are needed so that each nozzle can be individually controlled. Placing the heaters either in series or parallel defeats this control, and many problems will follow. You will spend days trying to understand why filament is dripping, or not extruding, or the PLA cooks in the nozzle, or the firmware shuts down for over or under heating, or a nozzle seems to ever hit the right temperature. You will waste far more time than the time needed to order and receive the proper heaters.
## If you must...
IF you were trying to proceed with some testing, change the 24V supply to 12V. The stepper motors will be a bit more sluggish, but the DC-to-DC converters will probably (maybe) work well enough to power the electronics. Check your supply rails to be sure.
## But don't.
It is better to wait, or find a local store to drive to and fetch them, or call a friend who may have spares.
You don't want the frustration, and uncertainty, and the possibility of doing something as a hack that causes other problems.
## Order the right cartridges and wait for their arrival.
ps: Not to make this a shopping answer, but Amazon has qty 5 cartridges, 24v 40w, qty 5 for $8. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get these tomorrow and use them while waiting for the "right" ones to arrive.
---
Tags: hotend, heat-management, dual-nozzle
---
|
thread-10907
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10907
|
How to set up Marlin to use a heated chamber?
|
2019-08-30T17:56:55.267
|
# Question
Title: How to set up Marlin to use a heated chamber?
I have an infrared lamp I'd like to use to heat my chamber. Right now I don't have plans to install a cooling fan, but I will if I need to. This question pertains to Marlin (2.0, preferably) in combination with an MKS Gen L v1.0 board.
In the documentation for the thermal settings it specifies you can set a heater pin to be used to heat up the chamber. It says this variable is called the `CHAMBER_HEATER_PIN` but in Marlin 2.0's Configuration\_adv.h file there is something called a `HEATER_CHAMBER_PIN` that has been commented out.
Secondly the `Configuration.h` file: there is something called an `AUTO_POWER_CHAMBER_FAN`. Is this meant for a fan used for cooling, or a fan used for cleaning out the chamber of particles? In either case, I probably don't want to have this fan always on, but only use it to cool the temperature the heater has been on too long.
So really there should be only 2-3 changes I need to make right:
* I need to specify an already present digital pin for
+ the chamber heater
+ the chamber cooler (fan)
* Turn thermal runway active.
* It needs to use the Marlin Chamber feature so that the readout temperature appears as "C:" in the arduino logs. This allows compatibility with octoprint
* Lastly I need to set an analog pin for the chamber thermistor
These are the things I can't fully figure out on my own. A detailed set of instructions or code snippets for a similar setup would be helpful
# Answer
Here is what I found to be the easiest solution. Please use this image for reference. I recommend doing these instructions once from source, since a lot of things can go wrong, then once everything works, go back and integrate them into your existing Marlin codebase.
1. Get some 5V relays to run the infrared lamps. These relays take in a 5V digital signal from an arduino pin. When the arduino activates these pins, the lamps will turn on. Get a cardboard box, line it with aluminum foil, and attach a lamp to the top of it using a lamp switch. If you are going to do this NEVER leave the box unattended, as a relay can get fail especially when it gets warm (this happened to me). Dont cause a fire, make sure to keep it attended. Anyway, One wire for the lightbulb goes to `NO` on the relay, the other goes to `D-`. One wire from 120V power goes to `COM`, the other also goes to `D-`. The yellow "jumper" on the relay boards I posted goes between HIGH and the middle pin. These are pins on the relay, not the MKS GEN board.
2. On the MKS GEN board, we will be using the `X-MAX` endstop as the digital pin to run the chamber. Wire the **`5V`** pin on `X-MAX` to the `D+` of the relay. Wire the **`GND`** pin to `D-` of the relay with the two other wires there. Wire pin **`D2`** on the MKS GEN Board to `IN` on the relay. **Bold** means the pin is on the MKS GEN board.
3. Clone the Marlin-2.0 repo: `git clone -b bugfix-2.0.x https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin.git`
4. In Configuration.h, change TEMP\_SENSOR\_CHAMBER to 1 or 11 (depends on your thermistor, might be other values.) Since we will be using the board's second extruder thermistor as the thermistor in this example, change TEMP\_SENSOR\_1 to 0 for now.
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_4 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_5 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_CHAMBER 1
```
5. In the file src/pins/ramps/pins\_RAMPS.h, add this line: `#define TEMP_CHAMBER_PIN 15`. Note that this is the thermistor slot usually used for a second extruder. If you're already using this thermistor for the second extruder and want to use a different analog pin, see this question. You'll need some resistors.
6. Also, around line 95 in pins\_RAMPS.h, change `X_MAX_PIN` to use an unused pin. The number `4` is good. If you don't do this, your Chamber's digital Pin will be always "on" by default. You want it off by default, then activated by the Marlin code.
7. In Configuration\_adv.h, change `//#define HEATED_CHAMBER_PIN 44` to `#define HEATER_CHAMBER_PIN 2` to use the `X_MAX` endstop's digital pin.
8. Upload...
9. Go into OctoPrint settings. Click Axes and Volume. Next to a checkbox for heated bed, there is a checkbox for heated chamber! Click that, and your chamber is active.
10. If some part is wrong (e.g. lamp doesn't go on because wire came loose on relay), debug that and keep working. Check the octoprint log to make sure the C value is shown.
11. Once everything works, generalize these solutions to your set-up (e.g. using multiple extruders).
> 5 votes
---
Tags: marlin, chamber
---
|
thread-10844
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10844
|
Show Build date and time in Marlin 2.0
|
2019-08-23T02:21:14.880
|
# Question
Title: Show Build date and time in Marlin 2.0
Is there a command to show the compile date and time of the Marlin 2.0 firmware? Also, is there a way to show this info at boot up?
# Answer
> 2 votes
You can show the compile date and time during bootup by changing the constant STRING\_SPLASH\_LINE2 in Configuration.h:
```
#define STRING_SPLASH_LINE2 __DATE__ " " __TIME__
```
---
Tags: marlin
---
|
thread-11018
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11018
|
Attach handle on a loose screw
|
2019-09-15T14:15:12.030
|
# Question
Title: Attach handle on a loose screw
The handle of a micro wave oven broke.
I can't just order a replacement part because I can't even attach the new one.
The problem is that the screw heads are somewhere on the interior side of the door, which cannot be disassembled (non destructively at least). I wouldn't even do it because of safety reasons.
I have access to the threads of two loose and captive screws to work with (indicated by the two red lines on picture one). The screws are not machine screws, but screws for plastic like in the attached picture.
The plan is to 3d print the plastic part of the handle and reuse the front aluminum cover.
I don't want the handle to be loose, so I'm looking for suggestions to attach the new handle. I have a lot of ideas, maybe I will share them later if they are not mentioned at some point. The main problem is: how to attach something when all I have to work with is a loose, non machine screw ?
# Answer
You are facing 2 problems in this case:
* Material choice
* Design
## Material choice
As far as I can see, this is an oven that can heat its interior to roundabout 250 °C, which means that the door will radiate a lot of heat. This needs special high-temperature plastics to withstand - PLA and ABS are not an option for this!
I would suggest looking for PEEK (stable at ~260°C) or a high-temperature resin print in this case, as there are some resins which can withstand much higher temperatures after curing. Note that PEEK is traded usually for above 100 €/kg and needs a specialty printer. Even the less stable PEI filament (works under 170 °C) needs a specialty printer: All metal hotend and 350-380 °C extruder are needed!
## Design
The plastic screws you show are self-cutting plastic screws. if their head is accessible, they get screwed into holes that have a bore large enough for the center.
If the screw head isn't accessible, for turning but can be pressed down, then one could opt to use high-temperature resin to cure inside oversized holes over the screw. This is not an option if the screw can't be pressed into the part though, as then the handle always will rattle.
## Repair?!
Note that you might be able to access the screws with a little work, if you have the right tools and manual.
> 0 votes
# Answer
If you have enough screw length exposed, clamp onto them via a 2-piece 'nut' that is itself bolted together via fasteners that run perpendicular to the screws. You can then fasten whatever to the 'nut' and maybe even hide the gaggle of fasteners that results. Another alternative for applying the clamping forces needed might be something based off a "toggle wing nut." I do not believe you will get good results via 1-piece print solutions the way the screws are.
Loads and nut material will determing how much screw you need inside the 'nut.' The more length you have to work with on top of that, the more room you have to hold the screws' rear ends w/ pliers/vice grip while getting your 'nut' on there.
If you don't have enough length, you will just have to use a different method of attaching to the door. Options may include adhesives and/or modifying the actual door - pretty annoying if you can't take it apart.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, material
---
|
thread-5067
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5067
|
MakerFlex Spool has bubbles?
|
2017-12-02T21:47:27.300
|
# Question
Title: MakerFlex Spool has bubbles?
I ordered a 0.5 KG spool of Makerflex Glow in the Dark filament from Makergeeks. I ordered Clear and Opaque PLA with it. The Makerflex plastic is called TPEE. The entire spool of it seems to have small bubbles in it. I even confirmed this by cutting one of the bubbles, and I could fit a small piece of metal inside, so it is not just a funky coloring. Does anyone know if this is normal? I can't get in touch with Makergeeks themselves. Will it damage my printer? I have a stock Tevo Tarantula.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Bubbles are a defect. Two problems can occur:
1. The air in the bubble will be under pressure when heated and can cause a little blow-out when the plastic sides of the bubble are soft enough that they can no longer contain the pressure. Depending on where this happens, it can either result in little spatters of filament being spit through the nozzle at the printed object, expanded craters which could increase the diameter of the filament and make extrusion more difficult, or, if at the end of a print job, the expanded filament may cool and be too large diameter to feed for the next print job.
2. If the air escapes without causing any other problem or it was created by cavitation, the volume of the bubble causes under extrusion, since it represents missing plastic. The extrusion volume is controlled by driving a specific linear distance of filament and assuming a specific filament diameter and 100% plastic. Underextrusion hurts print quality, print strength, and surface finish.
Bubbles in the filament indicate a failure in the filament manufactury. As @Granny said in the comment, this is defective filament which should be returned for a refund. If you use it, understand that it will not give results that are the best your printer can deliver.
---
Tags: filament, filament-quality
---
|
thread-11040
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11040
|
Resin burns to transparent sheet
|
2019-09-19T06:26:35.177
|
# Question
Title: Resin burns to transparent sheet
I recently bought a Kelant s400 LCD DLP 3D printer. I am using Wanhao resin (green) to print, using the recommended settings from Wanhao. I was printing a hollowed out cube as a test and it printed fairly ok, except one corner didn't print. Please see the attached photo. Turns out the corner stuck to the transparent sheet and not the rest of the print (base layers printed fine). Why would this happen and what can I do to prevent it?
Thanks
# Answer
The first thing to check is the transparent sheet itself - are there any defects (rough patches, creases, grazes) in the area in which the print was stuck to the "transparent sheet"\[1\]. This will cause the newly cured layers to cling better to that sheet than they should in that area, and likely caused the failure. If the sheet is marked in any way in that area, you likely need to replace it.
This kind of failure happens when the forces holding the newly cured layer to the transparent sheet are weaker than the forces holding the part together/to the build platform. These issues are usually to do with exposure settings - underexposed layers are less likely to bind together well and more likely to fail.
Since the majority of your part printed correctly, it looks as though your exposure settings are probably about right. If there are no defects in your transparent film though, there may be unevenness to the spread of light across your LCD that means some areas on the build area cure less well than others. You don't mention what slicing software you are using, but many slicers allow for a 'greyscale mask' that can compensate for this by making the image displayed on the LCD screen less transparent in the areas that the UV output is stronger so that the weaker areas can catch up. Note that after applying such a mask, you may need to alter your layer cure times to compensate.
---
\[1\] This transparent sheet is likely FEP film - essentially transparent flexible teflon, though I can't actually find that specified in the product details for this model of printer
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, wanhao, resin, print-failure
---
|
thread-11047
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11047
|
Herringbone timing belt?
|
2019-09-19T23:53:02.997
|
# Question
Title: Herringbone timing belt?
I realized while playing around with 3D printed gears that it would be easy to make a 3D printed herringbone-style timing belt and matching gears/pulleys. Would such a design have any advantages over typical GT2 timing belts used in 3D printers? I figure the belt contact around the gear/pulley is sufficient that it doesn't make a big difference to smooth transfer of force like it does with meshing gears, but it would prevent lateral movement of the belt. Are there other advantages (or disadvantages)? I would assume it's harder to produce the belt with conventional manufacturing techniques, but of course it's easy to produce with a 3D printer and TPU or other flexible material.
# Answer
> 5 votes
At a nearly microscopic level, the herringbone belt/gear combination will reduce the whoosh effect of a square profile cogged belt forcing itself into a matching profile pulley. Consider a well-sealed drawer or similar shape. Push it into the cabinet at maximum speed and force and the air is going to have a difficult time exiting.
By the design of the herringbone belt, the teeth on the belt are eased into the groove in what amounts to a diagonal motion. This permits the air to be exhausted in a less-abrupt manner.
This is part of the concept of Goodyear Eagle belt systems.
Part of the sales pitch is quiet, another part is precision, which I expect falls into the self-centering aspect of the design. Yet another described characteristic is reduced vibration, certainly valuable in the 3D printer world.
I've had no luck getting email communications from the manufacturers regarding this type of drive system, but found that commercially available belts and pulleys do not go below a rather large diameter, making that aspect unsuitable for 3D printing. The belts are also high-load capable, very stiff and also quite wide.
You would not want to use TPU or other flexible filament (perhaps obc?)\* unless you could be assured of minimal stretch. Any stretching of the belt would inject too many problems into the printer to compensate in practical terms.
\*From MatterHackers web site:
> OBC (Olefin Block Copolymer) 3D printing filament from Dow Chemical is a breakthrough material that is both flexible when printed thin and rigid when printed.
As an anecdote, I desired to replace the x-axis belt on my laser cutter with a Silent Sync system. It is believed on at least one laser-cutter forum that the GT style belts cause oscillation which appears when engraving. I had hoped to discover that the Silent Sync belts and pulleys would solve this problem, but the lack of communications with the manufacturer threw a wrench in the works. It's unlikely that I can 3D print a 2.5 meter long segment of belt, as I don't own a White Knight printer, but it's interesting to think that OBC filament might do the job well enough. Too much experimentation, however.
---
Tags: printer-building, mechanics, belt
---
|
thread-5544
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5544
|
STL to STP CAD Conversion
|
2018-02-23T22:01:25.383
|
# Question
Title: STL to STP CAD Conversion
Does anyone know of a good way to convert a 3D print file, like STL, to STEP - a useable file format for plastic injection molding companies?
I have tried to convert the files through a couple of programs without success. The most requested file is a STP or STEP file. If there’s no easy way to convert it, which I don’t think there is, does anyone know someone good at re-creating CAD files?
# Answer
> 5 votes
> a good way to convert a 3D print file like STL to STEP a useable file format for plastic injection molding companies
I don't know much about plastic injection molding companies, but I do manipulate a lot STEP, STL files and I do know that it is possible to achieve *"a good way to convert \[…\] STL to STEP file format \[…\]"*. For the record, the manufacturing process isn't recorded within these files format (at least not yet) so you don't have to specify the final use.
However, this is a delicate process which isn't easy for beginners in CAD engineering.
As said before, the STL files is a tessellation of a surface with triangles, while STEP defines precisely the surface with curves. It's basically the difference between raster graphics and vector graphics: most fully automatic reconversions programs (such as Inkscape in case of images), would create something quite approximate to the real shape. Manual programs would require time and knowledge of the needed tools (Inkscape can do it too, in case of images).
For the record, asking for a STEP file to be a STL file is as easy as transforming a vector graphic to a raster graphic, it's a one-click transformation. What you are asking, the reversed, is complicated.
What will be done if you import a STL file to a standard CAD program, it will consider each triangle as a defined unique surface, and in most cases, the standard CAD program will have a lot of difficulties to handle the STL. It could then export it to a STEP file, but this will make a huge, incredibly heavy file difficult to handle (I've seen STEP files over 300 MB while the STL was less than 10 MB).
The **good way** to do so, is to go through a reverse engineering program that handles better these troubles. I don't know any being free, and they all require extensive experience, expansive licenses and a bunch of time generally. For instance, I know that Catia, SpaceClaim or 3-Matic are programs that work very well for your issue, but they are both very far from affordable or easy to handle if you aren't a CAD designer.
Another **bad way** would be to pass through a 100% automatic reconstruction/conversion to STEP, but it would make something not exactly accurate to the original part, and may not be of any use depending of your application.
My best advice for this would be to find someone or some enterprise that can practice the **good way** from your STL to have the STEP file you want. You should also very much specify for what use your file is, because as a design engineer I wouldn't generate the same STEP file depending of the use of each surface.
I hope this answer isn't too much a disappointment for you, I know it won't solve your problem but it can help you understand why it is such a hard problem.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I've been able to manipulate an STL file using the hobbyist version (free) of Fusion 360. There's a series of steps involved that may require some research and experimentation, at least it did in my case.
One loads the STL file into Fusion 360 by using Insert, Mesh.
Once loaded, turn off history.
The next step is to convert the mesh file to BREP.
In that form, the surfaces can be edited and the model can be modified if necessary.
I have not exported to STEP, but have confirmed that Fusion 360 supports STEP as a valid export file format.
Both links provide additional information that may be of value to your project.
Consider also to double check your STL file to ensure it is manifold. Meshmixer is useful for such purposes. One model imported into Fusion 360 had entire faces removed due to a manifold error in the original model.
# Answer
> 3 votes
**The fact you may be able to produce a STP file is no guarantee the company will be able to injection mold it.**
You should ask the intended recipient of the file what are the *actual* requirements they need for making the injection mold.
**STEP and STL are not two different ways to store the same information**. They are two different standards with different goals. Both can describe the geometry of a solid shape, but **STEP has plenty more of functionality** designed to store information about the manufacturing process of the part.
For example, while most CAD software deals with the STEP substandard AP 203 "configuration controlled 3D design" **it may be that the company you are trying to work with requires information about the injection molding process itself**, that would probably be regulated by the AP 223 part of the standard ("exchange of design and manufacturing product information for cast parts").
If that is the case, **I strongly doubt any CAD software will be able to automagically create that information out of thin air**.
With an analogy: it is like you were dealing with a TXT file and the publishing company asked for a DOCX one. You may easily save the TXT as a DOCX, but what the publisher is really after is a document with a hierarchy of titles, font information, formatting, etc... and just saving the TXT as DOCX won't automatically generate those.
# Answer
> 3 votes
It depends very much on the molding company, and how much engineering service you can afford to buy from them.
Some will remodel your entire part anyway, to make it suitable for molding. Others will only accept specific formats and parts that are engineered 100 % ready to be molded.
So talk to them first, if they only use your file as a template, it won't matter what format it is in.
To answer the question:
I believe FreeCad can load STL, and export STP but, like Mac said, it may not be the result you need.
STL = Surface Tessellation Language. This stores the geometry as approximated by a mesh of triangles. It is incapable of perfect curves, so there is some information lost when the model was exported to STL.
STP or STEP can represent surfaces correctly, but only if that information is present in the model. Put in a tessellated model and it will still be tessellated.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I found a website, CadMesh, to convert the file for me. So far they are a free platform. I recommend to give it a shot.
Doing some research on internet I also found this good tutorial: Bantam Tools Blog - Convert STL to STEP
But the FreeCAD software seems to have some limitation on handling complex shapes. It may work for you.
---
> ### Step 1: Download a Conversion Tool
>
> Our conversion tool of choice is FreeCAD because it’s free, relatively simple to use, and does a good job of converting STL files to usable solid models. Download it here.
>
> ### Step 2: Import Your STL File
>
> * Open FreeCAD.
> * Create a new file (File menu \> New).
> * Import your STL file (File menu \> Import \> select your STL file).
> * From the dropdown menu in the top toolbar, choose Mesh design (see screenshot).
>
> (Credit: OpenSCAD Chess by Tim Edwards)
>
> ### Step 3: Repair the Mesh
>
> * Open the Evaluate & Repair mesh tool (Meshes menu \> Analyze \> Evaluate & Repair mesh).
> * Select the mesh from the dropdown at the top of the Evaluate & Repair pane.
> * One by one, go down the list, clicking Analyze and then Repair if the analysis finds any problems.
> * If clicking the Repair button for "Folds on Surface" makes your mesh look terrible, you can skip that one.
> * If clicking the Repair button for any other option makes your mesh look terrible, you’re likely out of luck. However, you should still try the next steps in case you get lucky.
>
> ### Step 4: Convert Your Mesh to a Shape
>
> * From the toolbar dropdown menu, choose Part.
> * Select your mesh in the left pane.
> * From the Part menu, choose "Convert to shape."
> * Leave the Sewing Tolerance at 0.10 and click OK.
>
> ### Step 5: Convert the Shape to a Solid
>
> This is the moment of truth! If FreeCAD is able to convert the shape to a solid, you’ll be able to save it as a STEP file. If you get a red error message in the bottom left corner of the screen, you’re out of luck.
>
> * Select the newly created shape.
> * From the Part menu, choose "Convert to solid."
> * If it works, you’ll see a new item in the list in the left pane that ends in "(Solid)."
>
> ### Step 6: Export Your Solid to a STEP File
>
> * Select your newly created solid file in the left pane.
> * From the File menu, choose Export.
> * From the Export dialog, choose "STEP with colors (\*.step \*.stp)".
> * Save your file.
>
> You're done!
# Answer
> 0 votes
Converting mesh files to solid formats is a complex task. While converting files from mesh to solid you should look for accuracy, number of patches, nurbs pattern, file size and many other variables that should be taken in consideration based on the use you will give for the solid file. I have compiled some thoughts as a starting point for your research. Make sure your STL/OBJ/PLY (mesh) file has a decent quality. You can use free software to validate your file such as Meshmixer and MeshLab. You will CONSIDERABLY increase your chances by having a watertight model. If the model does not have a closed mesh, you will most likely have a hard time/fail converting it.
There are 4 ways to do it:
1 – Using a free software This is a valid solution for a simple shape models. The best tutorials are posted here on GrabCAD. Here are some tutorials available on internet: https://grabcad.com/tutorials/how-do-i-convert-stl-graphics-to-a-solid-model Convert STL (or OBJ) Mesh to SOLIDWORKS Model (NURBS) How to convert STL to STEP using FreeCAD https://blog.bantamtools.com/convert-stl-to-step
2 - Professional software solution This is probably the best solution for companies with a high conversion volume on CAD/CAM demand. Some of these companies offer a free software version for students. The best solutions I have found: \- 3D Systems Geomagic Wrap \- Fusion 360 \- Power Surfacing (SolidWorks plugin) \- TransMagic
3 - Hiring a professional freelancer This is the best option for a one-time project, higher chance to get a decent converted file for an affordable price. Try to look for the feedback/customer review before hiring someone. I have seen professionals charging as cheap as US$25 per model/conversion. You can check on these options (there are many others): https://www.upwork.com https://www.fiverr.com https://www.freelancer.com
4 - Online conversion platform There are solutions with instant delivery/conversion, and others that take some hours to send you the file. I found solutions varying from free online conversion to pricy service. There are prices as low as US$1 per model/conversion. You may need to do some touch up on the files converted from automated platform before you send it to a CNC or other CAD/CAM machine. You can check on these platforms: http://cadmesh.com https://www.convertcadfiles.com/
Have in mind that, the higher is the model complexity (shape) the harder is to convert the model. If trying to convert a 3D scanned model, make sure to have a closed mesh and a high-density mesh definition.
During your Google research, you can also use the term “model surfacing”.
Good luck!
---
Tags: 3d-design, stl, cad, .step
---
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thread-948
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/948
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Is there a way to convert a file to .dwg?
|
2016-04-07T23:30:21.977
|
# Question
Title: Is there a way to convert a file to .dwg?
I can download a file from Tinkercad as any of these:
```
.STL
.OBJ
.X3D
.VRML
```
Is there a way to convert any of those file types to .DWG?
# Answer
I found this site and tested it a moment ago. I uploaded a simple .STL file (crystal) and had to register as a user (free, unremarkable) in order to perform the conversion.
http://www.cadforum.cz/catalog\_en/stl2dwg.asp
The downloaded file was in .DWG format and opened without a problem in AutoCAD 2013 as a 3d object.
Note the placement of the pivot point in Meshmixer (first image) and the corresponding location in AutoCAD.
> 1 votes
# Answer
There are solutions with instant delivery/conversion, and others that take some hours to send you the file. I found solutions varying from free online conversion to pricey service. You may need to do some touch up on the files converted from automated platform before you send it to a CNC or other CAD/CAM machine. You can check on these platforms: http://cadmesh.com https://www.convertcadfiles.com/
Have in mind that, the higher is the model complexity (shape) the harder is to convert the model. If trying to convert a 3D scanned model, make sure to have a closed mesh and a high-density mesh definition. Good luck!
> 1 votes
---
Tags: file-formats
---
|
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