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thread-271 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/271 | Troubleshooting poor adhesion at the edge of the bed | 2016-01-15T16:33:07.330 | # Question
Title: Troubleshooting poor adhesion at the edge of the bed
I've been printing for a week now on my new printer and have been getting great results, including great adhesion. However, most of my prints have had a fairly small footprint.
Now, I'm stepping up the types of items I'm printing, and I've started to run into a problem. Long, thin parts are starting to lift off the bed, especially at the edges of the bed.
I've read the question dealing with this issue with ABS and realize some (most) could apply to me. However, I'm printing entirely in PLA on a non-heated bed.
My question is: What is the best way to go about troubleshooting this problem? In which order should I attempt fixes to narrow down the problem most quickly?
Printer: Monoprice Maker Architect 3D (Very similar to Makerbot)
Material: PLA
Heated Bed: No
Bed Material: Something similar to BuildTak on top of an acrylic bed. (The sheet of material came unlabeled with the printer and I haven't been able to track down exactly what it is.)
# Answer
There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed. I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed.
Some cheap things to try would be...
1. Adding a brim to the print.
2. Blue painters tape on the acrylic, remove the other material if doing this.
3. Place cheap piece of glass/mirror on bed and use hairspray/gluestick.
4. Use hairspray/gluestick directly on acrylic. You must be careful here because first layer height is very critical to prevent damage to the acrylic from the plastic welding. A layer of hairspray or glue should prevent it but dial in your height before printing.
5. If you aren't currently using a fan, you could try sealing the sides to prevent drafts. I doubt this would change much since you are using PLA but it's an option.
6. If these are your designs, there are steps you can take to reduce warping as seen here.
Also many other suggestions here.
> 11 votes
# Answer
I use 3DLAC from Reprapworld on a heated bed. People I meet once a month during our 3D Printer meets use this stuff on non-heated beds.
I suspect it is just hairspray, but for me it did miracles. Especially printing large objects that go all the way up to the edge.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Try a dilute solution of PVA glue (approx. 5:1 water:PVA) applied to the bed or the BuildTak like sheet and allowed to dry. Keep the ambient temperature as high as possible (but not so high as to soften any plastic on the printer obviously). Big brims help - consider adding them to the model rather than just applying them in the slicer. I've used 12 mm by 0.5 mm deep circles to good effect, particularly on acutely angled parts of the model or the extremities.
> 0 votes
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Tags: pla, adhesion, warping
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thread-10360 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10360 | Needle Hotend for nonplanar printing | 2019-06-24T04:56:35.640 | # Question
Title: Needle Hotend for nonplanar printing
To minimize retractions and travel when printing several objects, some slicers produce gcode for sequential deposition when each object is built in a traditional manner bottom up layer by layer before starting a new object. Of course, there are limitations caused by the hotend geometry :
So bulky hotends don't allow for this trick to be used wen sequential pieces are closer than several centimeters. If there where hotends with minimal end effector geometry (needle like, much like drill bit on CNC) we might even do things like spiralizing contours of a single object. This has also potential for other tricks like producing interlacing layers for better layer bonding etc. I wasn't able to find any ongoing work on minimal geometry hotends. Any links? And what might be the challenges in making one? heatblocks and heating cartridges are out of the question but nichrome wire and a fast PID heat controller might do the job.
# Answer
The site is not well-suited to crowd-sourced invention, but the drawbacks to your suggestion are (I think) on topic.
The hotend has two main tasks. Accurate control of extrusion, and maintaining the desired volumetric melt rate. One factor which influences extrusion quality is the size of the melt-zone - generally, you want this to be as small as possible because rigid filament is easier to extrude/retract without ooze/stringing. Equally, the melt zone needs to be provided with a thermal mass (physical or virtual) to stabilize its temperature under extrusion.
Whilst it might be feasible to prototype your concept quite easily, it is likely to be expensive in volume - and there is no great direct advantage. So this is a concept which might enable an area of research but it doesn't look like a development objective with its own intrinsic value.
> 5 votes
# Answer
A conventional hot end needs only to be obstruction-free to the desired printing height on two adjacent sides to achieve what you want. The only other requirement is to be able to tell your slicer in what order you want your models to be printed.
For example, if your hot end is free of obstructions on the front and left sides, all that you need to do is lay out your models in a rectilinear grid, and tell your slicer to process them front-to-back, and left-to-right.
I have thought of doing this myself. By mounting my E3D V6 hot end as low as I can on its carrier, I should be able to print models up to 50mm in height, and only spaced 20mm apart. I may have to forego part-cooling, but I mainly print PETG without part-cooling, so no problems there.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Yes, using a needle to extrude will result in a smaller diameter extrusion. All that is needed is to find a one with a suitable bore size. The problem however is in generating enough hydraulic pressure, needed to extrude hot plastic through a nozzle of that size. If you can form an extruder that can, then go for it. The second problem is that the thin wall of such a nozzle won't have the same "ironing" effect that current nozzles have. From the picture referenced below you can see the nozzle hole and then a ring of metal around it. That ring flattens the filament out into the desired layer which helps with layer adhesion. With out it, the filament might not even stick to the previous layer, or the bed.
> 1 votes
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Tags: hotend, fdm
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thread-210 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/210 | How do I calculate the cost of a 3D print once it's done? | 2016-01-13T20:35:45.770 | # Question
Title: How do I calculate the cost of a 3D print once it's done?
How do I determine how much an individual print costs?
I'd like an answer including support material, failed prints, and (ideally) wear and tear / printer maintenance costs.
To clarify, I'm not asking how to *predict* the cost before printing, but rather how to calculate the actual cost after printing. Though predicting the cost beforehand is useful as well.
# Answer
For FDM printing:
Both Cura and Makerbot Desktop (and perhaps others I'm not as familiar with) will give you a preview of both the length and weight of your print, including supports/rafts. Once the print is done you can weigh it on a kitchen scale.
PLA Filament currently runs about \\$23/kg on Amazon, which works out to \\$0.023/g. Multiplication can then give you a good estimate of materials costs for a print.
Only experience with your specific printer will give you an idea of how often you're going to hit a failed print, and how often you're going to need to replace parts. For wear and tear you could try using a depreciation model of 2-3 years, but that's only an estimate.
> 6 votes
# Answer
There are many factors that make up the cost of a print.
* Filament base cost-calculate the cost per gram * number of grams used
* Power used by the printer-power cost * time
* Setup time for the printer-hourly cost * time
* Print time (as you could be printing other objects)
* Print area - you can run multiple prints at once
* Chance of print failure - (1+ %of failure) * cost of materials and time
* cost of printer (divided over expected prints
* printer maintenance
* profit margin
> 2 votes
# Answer
I recently faced the problem of calculating the cost of my printed 3D models. I wanted to know what their real value had to be counted in Excel. It was really inconvenient. Then I found a program for counting, it turned out really great, even takes into account the electricity. This is not an advertisement just throwing, maybe someone also encountered such a problem. https://codecanyon.net/item/mcc-3d-model-cost-calculation-for-3d-printer/24033425 I was interested in the question who solved the given problem in what ways?
> 0 votes
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Tags: cost
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thread-10375 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10375 | Is there a way to print with ABS without enclosure? | 2019-06-25T07:49:58.890 | # Question
Title: Is there a way to print with ABS without enclosure?
ABS is a very strong material, but it also has some downsides. One of them, which is the necessity of having a printer with enclosure, completely discouraged me from using it, as it would be a waste of money. This is quite sad, because I cannot make prints that will be able to withstand a large load of tension without breaking.
Is there any way to print ABS without any enclosure? Maybe there are several types of this material and some are easier to print?
# Answer
There is no requirement for an enclosure when printing ABS. Like many things in FDM, there are improvements to be made, but there is a scale of what is possible.
A heated bed is much more necessary (for similar reasons, the thermal expansion is significant and without a heated bed you have very high risk of warping).
An enclosure is important for high quality, large ABS prints. Otherwise, a warm location which is free of drafts will be fine, particularly for parts which are only a few cm high.
If you're not using an enclosure, the part cooling fan should probably *not* be used to print ABS. You should also be aware that ABS tends to generate more noticeable fumes than PLA (although this varies with product, and how sensitive you are).
> 7 votes
# Answer
I print ABS in my basement in an unenclosed Prusa3D i3m3s, just as I print other filaments. Perhaps an enclosure would be helpful, but I don't have problems as it is. Your experience may vary.
Before that I printed ABS on a large home-brew delta machine. No problems related to lack of enclosure.
Before that I printed ABS on a Thing-o-Matic, also with no problems.
I'm not saying that every print was perfect, but in the first two (chronologically) cases, the enclosure was not the largest contributor to print artifacts.
> 3 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, 3d-models, abs, enclosure
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thread-7038 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7038 | How to avoid collisions with already printed objects? | 2018-10-01T12:42:29.440 | # Question
Title: How to avoid collisions with already printed objects?
When printing several objects, I recently encountered a problem that arises when the structure in itself is relatively thin or the support towers have a small surface: the printhead would in motion tend to knock one or more over as it traveled or catch at them and create layer shift.
How can I avoid collisions with the already printed parts of a layer?
# Answer
The problem was twofold:
1. Lack of bed adhesion due to the small contact surface
2. motion into the already printed objects.
The *quick and dirty* way was to change two settings:
* Print with a small (3 mm) brim to stick the supports to the print and provide more surface. Other materials than PLA may need considerably more brim!
* Activate Z-Hop to force the nozzle to lift over the print when traveling
These tricks don't solve issues with very thin structures or in all cases. In those cases, it can be mandatory to increase the structure's (support) thickness or change the alignment.
> 5 votes
# Answer
For the Creality Ender 3, I had the same collision problem and after a while I found it was because of the X-axis not being level.
I found right hand side was more than 3-4 mm below the left side when the Z-axis height exceeds around 8-10 cm. Below that, the two sides were even. I made some calibration by turning the eccentric nuts of the wheels and tighten them.
If you use Creality Ender 3, that might be the problem. Take a ruler and check between base extrusions and X-axis left/right hand sides at different Z heights.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, slicing
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thread-10298 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10298 | How to avoid nozzle from hitting the model? | 2019-06-17T21:50:17.157 | # Question
Title: How to avoid nozzle from hitting the model?
When printing objects higher than approximately 8-10 cm, sometimes nozzle hits the printed model and knocks over it. After 7-8 hours of printing that's really annoying. I'm using Creality Ender 3 Pro with Ultimaker Cura. How can I avoid this problem?
As a note; it happens with thick, wide models without support structure too. I'm using Ender 3 Pro's stock magnetic bed.
Here are some photos of printed model.
I use Esun PLA+, the part was on baseplate without any loss of contact. It was like one layer missed its coordinates and then all corrupted.
I think it's not related with bed adhesion because for example for this model, it didn't knock over the model.
There is no roof for the model, I think it doesn't need any support structure. Here you can see the expected finished one:
# Answer
It seems the problem was because of Z-axis leveling (level of the X-axis), I found out that the right side was more than 3-4 mm below the left side when the Z-axis height exceeds around 8-10 cm. Below 8-10 cm, the two sides were even. I calibrated the X-axis by turning the eccentric nuts of the wheels and tighten them. I will try printing soon with some test objects.
> 2 votes
# Answer
There are options in Cura to avoid that the extruder hovers over printed parts when traveling. There is also an option to lift Z axis while traveling. Those options are hidden by default. You can only enable them in advanced settings mode.
> 0 votes
# Answer
There is a clear scar in the print that looks like the print head has hit it. The scar is about 1/3 of the way up the straight return segment on the right side of the photo.
The OP has provided enough information to show that it isn't an overhang or bridging problem.
I don't see any cracks in the print where part of it may have separated and bent upwards. I accept the OP's statement that the item is well attached to the bed.
What problems could there be?
The printer may have a Z-axis problem at that height. Perhaps it exceeds the maximum Z-height, or perhaps there is some obstruction or debris in a lead screw that is preventing it from freely moving above that height. The obstruction could be a cable that is too tight or an errant tie-wrap that hits something, or almost anything that interferes with motion at that height.
There is always the possibility of a bad wire (such as to the nozzle heater) that causes problems when the height reaches a critical level.
There may be a parameter change in the slicing software that is set for that height (or layer count). There shouldn't be, but a default profile may have been changed.
> 0 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3, nozzle
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thread-10371 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10371 | Can't control printer via USB | 2019-06-24T19:23:53.813 | # Question
Title: Can't control printer via USB
I've recently purchased a Makerbot Replicator Dual clone made by CTC. I'm in the process of upgrading/adding a few parts to it, but noticed that I can't control or print via USB.
The machine prints perfectly from an SD card and I can see information in the terminal from the printer via USB in RepG and through OctoPrint - Such as M105 - but can't send any .x3g files to print or upgrade firmware (I wanted to flash Sailfish 7.7 eventually).
To clarify;
**In Octoprint**
* Temperature auto-reporting is working
* Can send M105, M27, etc.. & get response
* Can select .x3g files from the SD card to print & the printer starts
* Can upload files (.stl, .x3G, .gco etc..) to Octopi, but even the .x3g files wont actually start on the printer.
* Tried sending `M140 T0 S200` & `M106 T0 S100` which received OK response, but there was no change reported, or indeed actually happening with the tool
*Terminal Output from OctoPrint at connection:*
```
Changing monitoring state from "Offline" to "Opening serial port"
Connected to: <octoprint_GPX.gpxprinter.GpxPrinter instance at 0x6c9a02d8>, starting monitor
Starting baud rate detection...
Changing monitoring state from "Opening serial port" to "Detecting baudrate"
Trying baudrate: 115200
Recv: start
Send: N0 M110 N0*125
Changing monitoring state from "Detecting baudrate" to "Operational"
Recv: Makerbot v7.4
Send: N0 M110 N0*125
Recv: echo: gcode to x3g translation by GPX
Recv: SD card ok
Recv: T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0
Recv: T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0
Recv: T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0
Recv: ok
Send: N1 M115*39
Recv: ok PROTOCOL_VERSION:0.1 FIRMWARE_NAME:Makerbot FIRMWARE_VERSION:7.4 FIRMWARE_URL:https://support.makerbot.com/learn/earlier-products/replicator-original/updating-firmware-for-the-makerbot-replicator-via-replicatorg_13302 MACHINE_TYPE:r1d EXTRUDER_COUNT:2
Send: M21
Recv: ok
Recv: SD card ok
Send: M20
Recv: ok
Recv: Begin file list
Recv: 2GB
Recv: System Volume Information
Recv: mesh_bed.stl
Recv: xyzCalibration_cube.x3g
Recv: CTCB_3DBenchy.x3g
Recv: 3DBenchy.x3g
Recv: ActiveCoolingDuct.x3g
Recv: CTCB_ActiveDuctD4_UN.x3g
Recv: UK_TROLLEY_TOKEN.x3g
Recv: mesh_bed.x3g
Recv: z-axis-support.x3g
Recv: bed-screws.x3g
Recv: spool_nut.x3g
Recv: 2016_spool.x3g
Recv: 2016_spool_no_raft.x3g
Recv: ActiveDuctD4_UN.x3g
Recv: Z_Axis_Support_Ends.x3g
Recv: End file list
Send: M105
Recv: ok T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0
Send: M105
```
**In ReplicatorG**
* The software connects to the board via USB and recognises that it is a Mightyboard running f/w 7.4
* Reports that it is an unvarified board
* Cannot use the GUI control tab to send commands to the printer
* Cannot send sliced .x3g files over USB, console shows a time out error instantly
* Saving .x3g to SD card does work
Is my Mightyboard just a dud, or is there something I can do to try and fix it?
The reason I want to try and solve this now, is that I'm planning on adding active cooling and LED lighting control so don't really want to do all that just to find out that I need to replace the board soon.
---
### Additional info
Some information meaning that the current firmware and board is reported, as well as current temperatures of the extruders and heat bed. I can print .x3g files from the SD card, but I can't send G-code commands or .x3g files through USB.
I have just tried a few G-code commands through OctoPrint terminal with mixed results. `M105` works, `M140` & `M106` don't.
# Answer
> 3 votes
You can find gcode information at the RepRap wiki. The obvious other thing to try is `G1 X10` for a move.
Octoprint prints by sending the individual file's gcode one line at a time over USB. It appears that the firmware on your printer might not respond to any 'action' commands over gcode, rather than any fault as such with your hardware/software setup.
Although your board reports a specific firmware version, it is impossible to know if that firmware was corrupted, or patched by the vendor (and no change reflected in the revision print). Thus, your best option to regain full control might be to flash your own firmware using low-level access. I'm guessing that will require an ICSP lead.
The fact that USB works, and the printer works, tends to suggest that the board is properly functional.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Good morning, and welcome to 3D Printing SE.
You said: "I can see information from the printer via USB in RepG and through OctoPrint, but can't send any prints, commands or upgrade firmware (I wanted to flash Sailfish 7.7 eventually)." This means that the USB communication is working fine. It isn't a question of drivers or the FTDI interface chip. That must be working fine or you wouldn't have any USB communication.
I would look toward a problem with slight dialect differences in the firmware that is flashed compared with the expectations of the host software.
I am not an expert regarding the differences in firmware G-code dialects, but there are at least: Marlin, Repetier, Mach3, LinuxCNC, Machinekit, Smoothie, Makerware, Sailfish. I got this list from the "about" page for Slic3r.
I would start by trying to slice files with different dialects and seeing if one of the resulting G-code files prints. You may also find a description of the firmware you have flashed with references one of these names, which would save a lot of time.
For flashing, you could try dropping back to the Arduino level and use those flashing tools.
---
More answer in response to the information you have added to the question.
X3G files are not G-code files. If you are using a control program that expects G-code, it will not be able to handle X3G code. Similarly, if the printer expects X3G, it may not understand G-code.
Octoprint has an adapter layer that seems to interconvert between g-code and GPX. You are running this layer. At about line 11 of the log file you added to the question:
> Recv: echo: gcode to x3g translation by GPX
The GPX add-in may be perfect, and it may cover all version of firmware and all functions. I don't use it and am unfamiliar with it.
To flash your board, I would be reluctant to assume that Octoprint/GPX new how to run that protocol. I would use the host software supplied by the vendor. Flashing is an infrequent operation, and add-on software is less likely to have it 100% correct. If I were writing GPX, I would intentionally make flashing be out-of-scope, since the consequences of doing it wrong could easily be to brick the printer.
Since Octoprint/GPX claims to be able to print to the printer, I would being all software up the respective current versions. Flash current Sailfish firmware using the supplied host tools. Update to the current/best version of Octoprint/GPX. Read the release notes of Octoprint/GPX for known issues.
It seems that X3D files are fairly limited in their use, which will constrain your options to be within the scope of the community that uses X3D files. I tried to add the X3D tag to your question, but so far no one has created the X3D tag.
Makerbot is part of Stratasys, and should be well supported. It may be well supported mostly within its ecosystem. You have a clone of a Makerbot machine, so, even though most or all of the printer parts are open source, you may not be able to use the genuine Makerbot host control software.
Your question asked if your controller board was working. It almost certainly is. I think you have a software/firmware compatibility problem.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It is possible that your board has a cloned FT232R USB-to-serial bridge chip, and FTDI drivers supplied via the Windows update channel will not work with cloned chips. Try using the Windows setup executable from the following page:
FTDI Chip: Virtual COM Port Drivers
Note that there are no known problems with MacOS and Linux drivers.
---
Tags: firmware, makerbot, usb, mightyboard, x3g
--- |
thread-10390 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10390 | How to solve spillage problem? | 2019-06-26T11:47:10.083 | # Question
Title: How to solve spillage problem?
I've done calibration test with "Concentric circle test" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11895) and at specific points there are little bumped points on the print. Also Thingiverse page of the test mentions about these.
How can I solve this problem?
My printer is Creality Ender 3 Pro, I use Esun PLA+ with 210 celcius extruder and 60 celcius bed temperature.
Here is the printed object, both are same print, just took photo on different base.
# Answer
It looks like you have the bed adjusted too high, smashing the layers together and causing "elephant foot" not just on the bed but also on features - the rings - near the bottom of the print. You might also have over-extrusion, due to an increased material flow setting, actual filament diameter greater than the setting in the slicer, or miscalibration of the E axis steps per mm.
From the second image, it looks like you might have another problem: I think I'm seeing infill lines through the gaps between the rings, rather than seeing top-surface skin in the bottom of the grooves. If so, this is a bug in Cura's default settings where "skin" in narrow regions is completely lost due to "preshrink". The skin preshrink values should be set no larger than the nozzle/line width, possibly zero, and skin expansion can be lowered by the same amount or more as long as it remains greater than or equal to the preshrink value. If my assessment of what I'm seeing is correct, fixing it should result in the grooves being supported properly rather than resting on infill lines.
What you're seeing is definitely not normal or expected from this printer. Here's what you should be seeing:
> 1 votes
# Answer
We had some prints like that recently. Turns out it was caused by the bed not being "level" or "trammed". Basically the nozzle was too far off the bed when printing started for the first layer. Check yours - a piece of paper should slide between the nozzle and the bed surface, with a little bit of resistance. If it slides freely, the bed needs to be raised some. Check it at the corners and in the middle of the bed.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I've not sliced the part in question, but the over extrusion mentioned in the third point (at change of direction/layers) is referring to ooze.
This is a result of the hydraulic pressure in the melt zone, and results in over extrusion at any point when the print head is moving slowly (and a corresponding under-extrusion once motion resumes). It can be compensated for by **retraction** and **coasting** settings.
This effect will probably not be visible in the print you have here, there are other effects which are causing more significant defects.
> 1 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3, calibration, nozzle
--- |
thread-5285 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5285 | Increasing rigidity of curved, long, thin parts | 2018-01-15T05:50:11.280 | # Question
Title: Increasing rigidity of curved, long, thin parts
I'm attempting to model and print a globe. The semi-circular arm that holds the globe has an outer diameter of 98mm and inner diameter of 92mm, so the arm is fairly thin. The arm has a small hole on either end that fits around a protrusion at each pole of the globe to hold it in place. The hole extends into the arm only a few millimeters, so it doesn't go all the way through.
I printed the arm in ABS and it ended up being a bit too flexible to hold the globe securely. Obviously I could do things like making the arm thicker or extending the globe's protrusions all the way through the arm, but I'd prefer not to if I don't have to (you know, artistic integrity or whatever).
Would printing in PLA result in a more rigid part? I've tried to do some googling on this, but couldn't really find a definitive answer. Most comparisons focus on strength which I assume doesn't necessarily correlate to flexibility.
I'd also welcome any other suggestions for making the part more rigid.
# Answer
> 5 votes
**The flexibility of 3d plastics has a lot to do with the additives manufacturers use**. The same base material with additive X may have very different properties than the one with additive Y.
That said, **generally speaking PLA is known to be more rigid** (and brittle) than ABS, but less strong. So: you have a fair chance at giving it a go with PLA, albeit you my end up with a more delicate object in the end.
There is a well known youtube channel, whose author has performed a lot of quasi-scientific testing on common brands of filament (PLA and not) where you can get an idea of the relative rigidity of the filaments. You can find the table with the results here (look for the "bend test" columns).
However the very firs thing that came to mind when reading your post, is that you could simply **swap pins and holes** by putting the holding pins on the arm, and the holes on the globe instead. This would allow you to preserve your design *and* to have longer pins.
Things you could try when it comes to printing (unless you are already doing them):
* **Print the arm flat** so that the layers stretch from pole to pole uninterrupted.
* **Print with near solid infill** (solid infill can be problematic if your extrusion calibration is not perfect), like 95% **and cubic infill** (for more uniform properties along the full length of the axis.
Finally, **you could try to anneal the arm** in your kitchen oven. This process works by warming the part until it becomes pliable and then letting it cool very slowly. The end result is that the molecules arrange themselves in a more "crystal-like" way and the part becomes stronger and more rigid. **Beware that annealing changes your part dimensions** so you should definitively do some experiments with a test cube and find out the direction and percentage of the shrinking before going "all out" on the arm.
# Answer
> 1 votes
To make it more rigid I would add more shells than to use solid infill.
There are higher strength PLA's, but they only gain their higher strength and temperature resistance after annealing. From reviews I've seen, there is only a percent or two difference in size, but this is more complex than it seems because the difference is different along the layer lines or crosswise from them. However, even normal PLA will anneal, so if you have any you could do some quick experiments.
If you have a high-strength nozzle, you could use NylonX. This is nylon with carbon fiber to make the part rigid. There are also carbon fiber PLA's ad ABS's, but I've never experimented with them.
Otherwise, I like the answer from @mac
# Answer
> 0 votes
Print thinner layers. Also, you did not mention the other dimension of your arm. If you view the globe with the arm to the left, then you have said the thickness in the X direction (left to right) is 6mm. But what about in the Z axis (away from you)? You could make it thicker in that direction to improve its rigidity.
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Tags: pla, abs
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thread-10397 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10397 | Rectangular pattern constraint is lost when applying a fillet to the sketch object | 2019-06-27T01:56:21.893 | # Question
Title: Rectangular pattern constraint is lost when applying a fillet to the sketch object
I'm working on a model in Fusion 360 that has part of the 2d sketch duplicated with the "Rectangular Pattern" tool. If I try resizing the original object, the duplicates update as expected. If, however, I try applying a fillet to the object, the pattern constraint is immediately lost and the duplicates don't update. I'm not seeing any error/warning, but I'm assuming it's running into a similar issue as if you were to delete a line that was part of the duplicated pattern (doing that shows a warning "Deleted geometry is part of a pattern, suppressed the instance or dissolved the pattern.")
Is there a way to alter the object (specifically apply a fillet) and have the duplicates automatically update? I've done a bit of searching around and I found some suggestions saying that patterns should generally be done on the 3d model instead of the 2d sketch, but in my case I'd like to keep this in the 2d world since there are other sketch pieces that are based on the duplicated portion.
Here is a simplified version of the problem I'm running into:
1. Start with a simple rectangle
2. Using the "Rectangular Pattern" tool in the sketch menu, select the rectangle and create a pattern
3. Using the "Fillet" tool in the sketch menu, click on a corner of the original rectangle. Notice that the "Rectangular Pattern Constraint" icon is no long below the original rectangle.
4. Finish applying the fillet. Notice that none of the duplicate rectangles have been updated.
# Answer
> 2 votes
In some CAD packages, this is exactly what I would expect. Models are constructed by applying operations in a specific order. The fillet is a separate operation, and is not part of the base rectangle.
The base rectangle is defined. You pattern the base rectangle. You define a fillet using the base rectangle as the reference. The fillet affects only that one rectangle.
OTOH, when you modify the base rectangle all are changed because the base rectangle is defined before the patterning operation.
If you can apply the fillet before the patterning, it may work as you wish.
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Tags: fusion360
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thread-10384 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10384 | Getting 5V directly from the Anet A8 mainboard | 2019-06-25T18:53:03.010 | # Question
Title: Getting 5V directly from the Anet A8 mainboard
My anet A8 stepper drivers get very hot after some time printing, so I decided to install a 5V fan to cool them down. I had the idea to get a 12V to 5V regulator to connect a 5V fan, but then i found this image:
(source: lokspace.eu)
It looks like the Anet A8 has an ICSP and Serial header that can deliver 5 or 3.3 V directly from the board. Is this correct? If it is, how many amps can i get from this pin? Can I connect a 5V fan directly here?
Thanks and sorry for my bad English.
# Answer
You would be better to use a 12V fan.
The 5V is for powering logic. It should not have motor loads, even fan motor loads, applied to it. You will not be saving power over using a 12V fan. According to @Tom 's answer, the 5V is derived through a linear regulator.
A linear regulator has the property that the current drawn from the regulator at 5V will equal the current drawn by the regulator at 12V. $7/12$'ths of the power will be lost in the regulator chip as heat, which may cause the chip to overheat if there is not enough cooling margin in the thermal design.
If you use a 12V fan the current consumption of the fan for the same cooling capacity will be lower, and you won't waste more energy dropping the voltage.
May I ask how hot the steppers are? Too hot to comfortably hold for more than a few seconds may still be completely acceptable for motors. So hot that the plastic holding them melts is too hot for the mounting, but may still be ok for the motor. So hot that they cause burns with 5 second contact is probably too hot.
If the motors are too hot, it might be better to check the current the motor drivers are programmed to deliver (either through software configuration or a potentiometer -- I don't know the printer). Getting the current right is a better fix that managing the excess heat. It may also improve the linearity of microstepping and improve print quality.
> 3 votes
# Answer
The 5V is derived from the 12V supply by a linear regulator (L7805CD, DPAK package with 100 C/W thermal resistance). The maximum you can draw from it (without overheating the regulator) is around 200mA. Considering the electronics on the board are already using some power, the maximum would be around a 150mA fan but this would have the regulator running near its maximum limits.
> 6 votes
# Answer
5 V and 3.3 V are both logic "highs" in computing and measured against GND. If the fan simply has to know the on stance and nothing more, then you could run a fan with the logic 5 V (and probably 3.3 V for about 50% spin speed).
> 2 votes
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Tags: anet-a8
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thread-10403 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10403 | Fixing uplifted magnetic heatbed surface | 2019-06-27T15:31:19.463 | # Question
Title: Fixing uplifted magnetic heatbed surface
When trying calibration prints, I printed something with 240 celcius on magnetic heatbed and when removing the object, because it sticked very hard on surface, it uplifted surface of magnetic bed.
So when printing first layers, nozzle touches the bed when it's passing on that points.
Is there any way to fix this? I'm thinking about ironing the magnetic bed but not sure.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The Ender 3 Pro bed looks like a sheet of steel with a stick-on plastic sheet. If the steel plate is bent, you would probably be happier to buy another one. If the plastic film has lifted off the bed, you might be happier to buy a new plate, although there are sheets of film with adhesive available.
If you are printing small objects, you can plate them other than in the center.
If the problem is that the central bump screws up auto-leveling, try ironing while you are waiting for the new one to arrive.
I looked on the Creality site but did not find listings for spare parts. You may need to be a customer to see that part of the catalog.
Ironing it might work. The adhesive is probably good for 110 C. I say that because the specs for the Prusa3D bed are similar. I looked up the 3M product used for the PEI surface and found that the adhesive was the limiting factor at 110 C. The PEI was good for a higher temperature. If ironing doesn't work, buy another one. If ironing does, come back and answer your own question so the information is preserved.
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Tags: heated-bed, creality-ender-3
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thread-10328 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10328 | ABS de-layering on Ender 3 | 2019-06-21T01:20:27.210 | # Question
Title: ABS de-layering on Ender 3
I feel like I’ve tried everything. I’ve had an Ender 3 for seven months now printing in PLA.
I’ve modded it plenty including BLTouch. I’m now doing a project that really requires ABS so I have the white hatch box ABS. It wasn’t sticking at first but I got that well under control with glue tape and proper leveling with an enclosure. And I’m assuming this is important. I do indeed have an enclosure. Anyone I’m printing this part that has two long but thin-sideways protrusions coming out. Each one keeps de-laying at two specific points. I’ve tried everything including temperature and everything in Cura settings. I’m up to four failed prints now. I also tried other prints with the ABS and they also delayered in specific spots over and over.
Please help I’m close to completely giving up on my projects. The de-layerings are all the same with this one being the worse of them.
# Answer
Welcome Fox\_89 to the SE 3D Printing site. Thank you for bringing your question, and I hope you contribute both questions and answers in the years ahead.
I understand that you've tried everything, so I have nothing new to suggest.
Never the less, I would suggest some possibilities, perhaps one of which you haven't yet tried:
* Extrude hotter filament. Increase the nozzle temperature. My printer (Pruse3D i3m3s) prints ABS at 255 degrees C. Give the layers a better chance to melt together.
* Print slower, so that the layers have a longer time to melt together, and they have a longer time to cool before the next layer reheats them.
* Use a cooling fan to bring the part to equilibrium more quickly.
* Try a different filament. Not all filaments have the same shrinkage. Hatchbox has worked pretty well for me, but try another manufacturer. Try another color, like transparent. White can be a difficult color because it must carry a high pigment load. Black can carry less pigment, and might be easier to print. "Transparent" or "natural" carries no pigment.
* Check for anything that might increase the strain on the part at that layer. It could be a geometry change on the other side of the part, since that changes the thermal profile of the whole layer.
* Must it be ABS? PETG has a higher working temperature than PLA, but will print differently than ABS.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I'd second printing slow and near as hot as your filament can stand and still hold shapes in test runs.
Extruding thin has worked well for me in cases with ABS pull/shrinkage. I've also had luck heating up the environment my printer is in. ABS stays gummy above 105C (its Tg is around there), so I've had good luck running my deck at 105C, and either setting up my print so that parts that were likely to have problems are close to the heat element (on my Ender 3 it's the ~5cm in the center of the plate) or using other external heat (with no fan). \[Note to people who might want to try external heat: ABS is flammable - stick with other methods unless you feel sure you understand the safety factors.\]
ABS grinds down nicely - if it's feasible, consider making these parts thicker/adding a raft on a super hot deck, so you can print much hotter, then sanding to your desired shape.
Lastly, and least elegantly: I'm not sure if this is possible - depends on the exact project - but you might think about ways to print these parts separately (close to the hot deck) for connection post-printing. ABS is acetone-soluble, so it's pretty straight-forward to melt some spare bits, and voilà: glue.
Good luck! ABS is a pretty sweet polymer - don't give up on that project just yet!
> 0 votes
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Tags: abs
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thread-10410 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10410 | What part is this? Circular threading spool gear, about 10 mm diameter | 2019-06-27T23:05:15.583 | # Question
Title: What part is this? Circular threading spool gear, about 10 mm diameter
How should I describe this part which looks like a small gear so that I can research replacements?
This came with my FLSUN 3D printer, which may be based on a Prusa design.
# Answer
This is a timing belt pulley.
Specifically, is a GT2 timing pulley, 2 mm pitch (between teeth), 6 mm wide. The drive diameter is measured by the number of teeth (16 in this case) , the shaft diameter (bore) is measured in mm.
The 'GT2' part refers to the tooth profile, some other examples are shown half way down this page.
> 8 votes
# Answer
It is an "aluminum timing pulley"
https://www.google.com/search?psb=1&tbm=shop&q=aluminum%20timing%20pulley&ved=0CAMQr4sDKAFqFwoTCMis1KHmiuMCFRoMswAdMqUElxAB
https://www.ebay.com/i/152446519860?chn=ps&var=453435947176
> 1 votes
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Tags: replacement-parts, part-identification
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thread-10407 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10407 | Auto physical bed leveling? | 2019-06-27T22:09:58.923 | # Question
Title: Auto physical bed leveling?
I've never used a printer with auto bed leveling, but my understanding is that most or all of them don't actually level anything, but rather compensate for the unlevel bed in firmware by transforming the coordinates. It seems to me this would necessarily introduce aliasing artifacts in all your prints by making it so that line widths are no longer a whole number of microsteps - I immediately observed such an effect on top/bottom skin when I tried to use steps-per-mm tweaking in firmware to compensate for a dimensional error rather than fixing the mechanical source of the error, and concluded that it was a dead-end approach.
If the auto-leveling firmware only makes adjustments with the Z motor as it moves, rather than transforming all three coordinates, it seems like that would be mostly or entirely mitigated, but with slight errors in dimensional accuracy dependent on how tilted the bed actually is.
Do any of the printers with (or add-on kits for) auto bed leveling actually level the bed mechanically, with servos attached to the adjustment knobs? Why isn't an approach like that more common?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Automatic bed levelling is not magic; it still requires you to level the bed properly (as level as possible). The upside of automatic bed levelling is that it compensates for small deviations like a slightly slanted surface or a (somewhat large) dent in the surface (as long it is probed and can be digitized by the firmware). It will keep the nozzle at a distance to the bed that it maintains proper distance to the bed for the filament to adhere properly (first layer adherence is key for successful prints). The slight imperfections are smeared out over about 10 mm (set in the firmware), this way you do not need transformations for the whole print (so if you deliberately make the bed very skew, the print will follow the Z axis, not the direction perpendicular to the bed).
While systems to level or align the bed exist, it is not very practical and expensive as it requires more parts, that is why it is not commonly used. Apart from the suggested printer in this answer, printers with e.g. 4 ball screw Z movement lead screws exist (mostly printers for companies, not for use at home); ball screws are way more expensive, but also way more accurate than trapezoidal lead screws. A low accuracy is preferable as such systems generally have no guiding linear rods (as that would mean that you fix the plane/alignment of the build platform!).
# Answer
> 3 votes
A delta machine does not natively have cartesian planes in its coordinate space. "The bed" is a mathematical abstraction that must match the physical bed plane. Small mechanical errors or offsets distort the expected planar abstraction to introduce wave, cup, and bowl artifacts. "Leveling the bed" for a delta consists of calibrating out those distortions.
A delta machine is constantly adding small positional quantification artifacts to the print. This could be beneficial, as there is a small constant noise introduced into the position of the print, rather than jumps which are a simple function of position.
A delta machine could adjust the z-axis to be perpendicular to the observed bed with no additional print artifacts.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The rail core II does this by having a 3 separate stepper motor + lead screws attached to the bed. Along with a z probe this allows the bed to leveled automatically. Although this will not make the bed any flatter meaning it will only align the bed in the correct XY plane with respect to the gantry.
https://www.kraegar.com/railcoreii
# Answer
> 1 votes
The only 'consumer' approach to this would be providing adjustment feedback to the user, after the bed has been probed to determine an optimal position so that most of the bed is in the same plane.
This seems to me like a 'free' enhancement, but users don't seem to be overly worried by the distortions introduced (or perform the calibrations manually already).
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Tags: bed-leveling
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thread-10420 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10420 | Tevo tarantula Z- port burnt | 2019-06-28T17:00:23.707 | # Question
Title: Tevo tarantula Z- port burnt
I burnt the Z- port for the Z endstop. Can I use the Z+ port? I'm using Jim Brown's Marlin firmware.
Any help to change that is highly appreciated. I know nothing about code. Sorry for my ignorance. I'm new on this 3D printing universe.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Assuming line 585 of Configuration.h looks like this
```
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
```
That is to say, if the Maximum endstop ports/plugs aren't currently being used, then you could just redefine the pin used by `ZMIN` (Z-) to be that currently being used by the `ZMAX` (Z+), in the appropriate `pins_XXXX.h` file (contained within MarlinTarantula/Marlin/src/pins/), where `XXXX` depends upon which board you have (I don't know what board your printer has).
For example, if you have a RAMPS board then in pins\_RAMPS.h at line 79 you would change
```
//
// Limit Switches
//
#define X_MIN_PIN 3
#ifndef X_MAX_PIN
#define X_MAX_PIN 2
#endif
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15
#define Z_MIN_PIN 18
#define Z_MAX_PIN 19
```
to become (note the change in the last two lines)
```
//
// Limit Switches
//
#define X_MIN_PIN 3
#ifndef X_MAX_PIN
#define X_MAX_PIN 2
#endif
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15
#define Z_MIN_PIN 19
#define Z_MAX_PIN 18
```
Then compile and reflash the firmware.
Obviously you would then plug the Z\_MIN (Z-) wire from the endstop into the Z\_MAX (Z+) port.
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Tags: z-axis, endstop, tevo-tarantula
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thread-10377 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10377 | What alternatives are there to sanding resin parts with fine details? | 2019-06-25T09:09:19.393 | # Question
Title: What alternatives are there to sanding resin parts with fine details?
I have some transparent resin parts printed with a polyjet printer. Where the support contacted the part it has a matte finish. The recommended finishing technique for these parts is to sand them with sandpaper, but the geometry of my part makes that very difficult. What alternatives to sanding do I have, to give these parts a glossy finish?
I'm looking for techniques appropriate to a home or small office environment. A technique that needs special equipment bigger than a desk is probably not going to work for me.
# Answer
> 1 votes
desktop tumbler/brass polisher, rotary rock tumblers are probably a better option than a small sandblasting cabinet. choose your abrasive material from there, a coarse sand is probably not what you want but there are walnut based things and finer grit materials that should be able to get a nice shine. if you would rather do it manually and geometry allows you can try a dremel-type rotary tool with a buffing wheel or similar
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Tags: post-processing, resin, polyjet-printer
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thread-10424 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10424 | Has anyone rebuilt Prusa3D firmware for the Genuine Pruse i3m3s? | 2019-06-28T19:29:18.490 | # Question
Title: Has anyone rebuilt Prusa3D firmware for the Genuine Pruse i3m3s?
With no answer to my question two days ago about how the Prusa printer behaves with an intermittent open or shorted thermistor, I'd like to ask this question of relative last resort.
Prusa seems to have some version of their i3 software posted on Github. Should I expect this to be current, or some older version?
Have you rebuilt, reflashed, and operated with rebuilt Prusa firmware?
If so, what tips would you offer?
I ask because once I open something like that up, I inevitably am seduced into making changes.
# Answer
> 3 votes
The Prusa Firmware on GitHub is the very latest version -- it's the code repository Prusa uses for development. My suggestion is that you don't use it unless you're planning to do firmware development or testing, because like any such software, it tends to have bugs.
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Tags: prusa-i3, firmware
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thread-10427 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10427 | Inland PLA+ stringing badly at manufacturer-recommended temperature ranges | 2019-06-29T20:29:18.267 | # Question
Title: Inland PLA+ stringing badly at manufacturer-recommended temperature ranges
I've seen conflicting advice on the correct printing temperature for Microcenter's house-brand Inland PLA+, particularly after a supplier change announced in April 2018.
There's an official post from Microcenter, where they state that their PLA+ from both the suppliers they use prints best from 215-225 °C. (The label on the spool specifies 205-225 °C).
However, I've run a series of Benchy prints with recently-purchased white inland PLA+ at different temperatures (with a Lulzbot SL toolhead and 0.1 mm layer depth, slicing by Cura LE 3.6.10 after repairing the STL with Microsoft's repair tool, movement 30 mm/sec), and my experience is very different:
* 220 °C has very severe stringing and blobbing, including blobbing on top surfaces. The text on the base is not visible at all.
* 215 °C has substantial stringing and blobbing, particularly on inside surfaces, but not on the roof of the boat (except the prow). The text on the base is partially visible.
* 210 °C looks very good; there are some tiny blobs on the nameplate and the inside door, and no stringing. This was the first one that didn't require a razor blade to remove from the PEI surface. The text on the base is very clear.
* 205 °C looks great.
Is something wrong with my equipment, such that it's printing with a higher temperature than it reads? Is Microcenter's advice off? Could I have a batch that behaves differently than is expected for the same filament in general?
More to the point -- what advice do others have to get good results with Inland PLA+?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Even as PLA+ contains some additives, each printer is different. We usually never know what the actual temperature of the printhead is, but if your printer prints good at 205 °C, despite the manufacturer claiming you should use a little more temperature, use it. It might be the perfect combination of temperature and speed for **your** printer. Your printer is not the benchmark machine the manufacturer of the filament used, and we have no idea what speeds they used if they had an enclosure and what style of hotend they used.
# Answer
> 4 votes
A portion of information missing from the manufacturer's specifications and in the question is the print speed. You could have slower speeds than the manufacturer used to perform the tests, which requires lower temperatures to reduce the "flow rate" of the plastic to an acceptable level.
In some cases, I use as low as 20 mm per second print speed, others can be as high as 60 mm per second. At the higher speeds, I will increase the temperature five degrees C to ensure that the hot end can keep up with the increased filament extrusion. Alternatively, slower speeds need lower temperatures. The variation may not be larger as described for your system. You've already experienced a substantial difference based on your posted numbers.
It would be unrealistic to collect others' experiences with a specific brand unless color choice, print speed, printer model/hot end model, etc are also collected. Let's include part cooling fan settings as well to complicate the task even more.
You can consider to check the great Thingiverse library for temperature test models. These files are used to print various segments at different temperatures. Due to the above noted factors, you may find your result can be clustered or may find they cannot, based on color, manufacturer, age, etc. It is a valuable resource to improve your printing results, however.
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Tags: filament, pla+
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thread-10435 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10435 | Print times not accurate (Ultimaker Cura) | 2019-06-30T17:02:25.913 | # Question
Title: Print times not accurate (Ultimaker Cura)
I am using Ultimaker Cura (4.1.0) as slicer and a Monoprice Maker Select 3D printer and have noticed that the reported print times when slicing are something like 25 % less than the actual time it takes to print.
Is there some practicality factor involved here? Have I failed to enter all relevant printer properties in Ultimaker Cura? Are these reported times not actually meant to correspond to reality?
Any insight is gratefully received.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Most likely Ultimaker Cura is not aware of the firmware's default limits on acceleration or jerk. Make sure they match either by increasing the printer's limits or decreasing the ones in the print profile to match.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, monoprice-maker-select
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thread-10426 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10426 | Damaged overhang | 2019-06-29T19:30:49.533 | # Question
Title: Damaged overhang
I have issues with this overhang:
The whole part always breaks in this overhang during the print.
I tried to increase the count of wall lines and decrease printing speed, but none of those things help. Do you have any idea how to fix it? Is possible to create support inside a model to print this overhang?
(I´m using Cura 4.1.0.)
I´m using 3 wall´s lines and 15% gyroid infill. My bed has 70 °C and nozzle 205 °C. I am using PLA Prusament galaxy black. The part is oriented the right way. By overhang I mean damaged part above holes.
# Answer
When you get upwards facing things failing it can be because the slicer has too few top layers which makes angled faces have gaps. While you may think it is a wall the slicer sees it as top layer. Try increasing the number of top layers and check in the preview how it appears.
Infill will normally support those faces so no separate support is needed. Just make sure you have enough top layers that no gaps form, 3-5 layers should be alright.
> 4 votes
# Answer
As @r-ahlskog pointed out, it was due to the top layers count being too low. Adding some, now it looks perfect:
> 2 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, pla, stability
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thread-10432 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10432 | Why did my print fall off its raft? | 2019-06-30T10:04:45.887 | # Question
Title: Why did my print fall off its raft?
I just set up a refurbished MP Select Mini V2 and tried to print the test file included by the manufacturer, `cat.gcode`, from the included SD card. I printed in PLA (I think; the unlabeled sample included with the printer) at the default extruder temperature, 190 °C. The print bed was set to 50 °C.
It appeared to print the raft fine, and then a couple of layers of the cat. At this point I walked away, and when I came back a few minutes later here's what I found:
The raft is still stuck to the bed, but the layers of cat that were printed fell off the base and onto the floor. Here's what I picked up off the floor, (next to the detached raft):
The raft was stuck on the bed just fine, so I don't think it's an adhesion issue. The bed and the desk the printer is sitting on are both very close to level (things don't slide or roll off). There's no breeze and I'm certain nothing bumped or touched the printer while it was running.
This is my first attempt at a print so I obviously have no idea what I'm doing. I'm planning to set up a camera to record the next attempt. What other troubleshooting can I do? What is the likely cause of this problem?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Your trouble lies within the presliced G-code: the temperatures are rather low for PLA and upping both by 10 degrees would be advisable:
* 200 °C for the Hotend
* 60 °C for the Bed
Atop that, printing a raft for PLA is usually not advisable.
Get yourself a slicer (the most common free ones I am comfortable with using are Cura, Slic3r and Slic3r Prusa Edition) and either import a fitting profile and create your own profile, then slice the `.stl`-model yoruself.
# Answer
> 3 votes
It looks to me as the model did not have enough surface contact with the raft.
---
This can be caused by to big of a gap between raft and model set in the slicer or because of Underextrusion. The part itself does not look underextruded, at least not a lot, so I would say that the slicer settings were not ideal.
I would suggest you slice a part by yourself and test the printer again.
From personal experience a skirt or brim works better with PLA and uncomplicated models.
For general bugfixing, explanation of slicer settings and anomalies the Simplfy3D hompage is a great resource.
Here is an article about Rafts, Skirts and Brims and here the general guide page for print quality.
---
Your printing temperature is a bit low but shouldn't be the cause for the problem. Maybe check the specs on the PLA you used. Your bet temperature seems to be fine as the raft did adhere well.
---
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Tags: troubleshooting, print-failure, rafts, monoprice-select-mini
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thread-10438 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10438 | Home E / extrude until endstop is triggered | 2019-06-30T18:54:04.080 | # Question
Title: Home E / extrude until endstop is triggered
I'm working on something that I'll share once it's done (then hope it's not a disaster and actually useful to someone).
It requires a stepper to rotate a part by a certain amount of degrees, which I plan to achieve by using E1 and simply issuing an appropriate `G0` command.
The issue I'm having is that I would need Marlin, upon start to check if the part is actually rotated to the 0 deg position.
I suspect that there is no way to i.e. use an unused Z max pin and issue something like the well known `G28` or like Duet3D does with `G0/1 S` parameter. Is there maybe a hack I can apply with a filament run out sensor as that axis endstop?
# Answer
You should be able to adapt the "Dual X Carriage" feature for your project.
That allows a second print head (on the X axis) to move independently of the "main" X axis motor - and it can also be homed against its own endstop.
You can enable this feature in the `configuration_adv.h` file under "Dual X Carriage".
By default, all "Dual X/Y/Z axis" features use the first free extruder stepper driver - which would be E1 in your case.
You would have to adjust the `X2` parameters to allow you to zero the motor on the endstop (`X2_MIN_POS 0`, `X2_HOME_DIR -1`, `X2_HOME_POS X2_MIN_POS`), as well as setting the default mode to "`FULL CONTROL`" (`DEFAULT_DUAL_X_CARRIAGE_MODE DXC_FULL_CONTROL_MODE`).
As far as I understand, you can then use `T0` and `T1` to change between both "X axes", with `T0` selecting your real X axis, and `T1` your custom stepper motor.
> 3 votes
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Tags: extruder, endstop, axis
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thread-10401 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10401 | How does Prusa3D firmware respond to an open or shorted thermistor during a print? | 2019-06-27T13:20:24.720 | # Question
Title: How does Prusa3D firmware respond to an open or shorted thermistor during a print?
I have a Prusa3D i3m3s. The problem occurred once before with firmware 3.6.1. Last night I upgraded to firmware 3.7.1 and repeated the problem almost exactly.
The symptom is that at what appears to be the same point in the print in the two failure instances, the extruder stops extruding. There are a few wisps of filament on both failures. The print continues to completing. At the end of the print, the firmware issues an error because the MMU2s can not properly retract the filament.
On analysis, the filament is tightly jammed into the extruder and hot end, almost as if there has been heat creep. Slow, strong, and steady tension on the filament will withdraw it from the extruder system.
The hot end heats normally, and maintains temperature. When hot, plastic extrudes properly from the hot nozzle.
The thermister wires are damaged from an earlier problem.
The damage points to a thermister-related problem, but a shorted or open thermister is easy to detect in firmware. I would expect it to throw an error and stop the print.
My question is: Does the Prusa3D firmware detect open/shorted thermisters and stop the print?
If a photo is required, I can post that tomorrow.
# Answer
> 4 votes
This sounds like a problem I had with my hotend cooling fan a couple years back. To answer your question, from what I'm reading, the Prusa3D firmware detects thermal runaway if the hotend temperature drops for more than 45 seconds, it detects an open-circuit by reading 16 °C or less (MINTEMP error), and detects a short by reading 310 °C or higher (MAXTEMP error).
Couple questions that might help better troubleshoot the root of the problem:
1. have you measured the thermistor's resistance while cold or hot?
2. have you made sure your hotend cooling fan is at an appropriate speed while heated?
3. have you made sure your print cooling fan duct isn't pointed at the hotend block due to being jostled?
You might find that there are some fairly simple solutions to a handful of overheat problems. I bought a cheap knockoff all-metal heatbreak and immediately ran into problems, but solved them by printing a better heatsink shroud and upgrading to a 40 mm fan. If you've upgraded to an all-metal hotend, you might run into issues with PLA specifically if you're not printing enough material fast enough, as PLA is somewhat sensitive to heat creep through the filament itself in the throat of the hotend.
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Tags: prusa-i3, firmware, thermistor, print-failure
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thread-10444 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10444 | PETG on Ender 3 | 2019-07-01T05:12:04.783 | # Question
Title: PETG on Ender 3
I've been trying to print some eSun PETG on my Ender 3 with some questionable results. I am experiencing severe stringing. Attached is a photo of my first layer. My settings are:
* 250 °C hotend
* 80 °C bed
* 0.15 mm first layer
* 0.2 mm layer height
* No Z-hop/retraction
* 40 mm/s print speed
* 50 % fan speed
Any suggestions?
# Answer
It looks to me like you're using Cura with the default Ender 3 custom start gcode. The priming line there tries to cram about twice the amount of filament through the nozzle as what it should, so unless your material and temperature can handle really fast flow, you'll build up pressure in the bowden, the retraction before the move to start printing will fail to actually back the filament out enough to stop flow, and you'll get a string. This will continue until sufficient oozing has happened to dump all the excess filament.
Going back and forth over the same line is also problematic, as it will pick up any blobs that got dropped off the first time over, melt them on the nozzle, and drag them into the print area. PETG really hates that. Whereas with PLA it just tends to leave the junk stuck to the model somewhere, with PETG it'll get dragged around and break things off the build plate or the model.
I replaced the priming part of the start gcode with:
```
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F750.0 E18 ; Draw the first line
```
Note that there is no second line.
I also reduced the final retraction in the end gcode from 3mm to 1mm so that the filament is left in a position where it doesn't require a lot of advancement to start priming, comparable to what you get after loading filament manually. Otherwise, you need extra priming at the start to make up for the difference, and then after loading new filament you'll over-extrude during priming.
Oh, you also **need** retraction, regardless of material. I missed that you had it off. Anyone telling you to turn off retraction for your general settings is wrong as that will always cause stringing; it's just a matter of how much<sup>1</sup>.
<sup>1 - see discussion in comments.</sup>
> 2 votes
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Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3, petg
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thread-10439 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10439 | Ripple in layers | 2019-06-30T18:54:10.533 | # Question
Title: Ripple in layers
I'm printing part for a chess board from a set on Thingiverse, expanded a little to 50 mm square. After the 3<sup>rd</sup> layer, I'm seeing what looks like raised ripples, and you can feel them with a finger too. I didn't see this when printing just 4 pieces earlier. PLA at ~200 °C, bed is PEX/flex steel/magnet/AL.
The initial layer also had some streakiness (?) after the 1<sup>st</sup> layer.
Odd, as the bed tests out as pretty level using the paper under the nozzle test.
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Looking much better now that the infill is starting. Will have to look into calibrating the extruder when this print finishes. Printed a 6 hour iPhone stand yesterday, turned out really nice.
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Top layer is nearing done (looks like top layer is finishing, then the lip to go for the edge of the board) and all signs of the rippling are gone. Will check the 'level' again before we start on the light color squares.
# Answer
Printing some more parts tonight. Looks like solution is better bed "leveling" (tramming, or basically squareness between X, Y, and Z axis). Getting it dialed in to the correct height, 1/4 turn of a bed leveling screw at a time.
Also ordered some metal (stainless steel) shims so we can get and check the bed level more accurately than "this index card plus a little bit" as the card measures ~0.16mm and we want 0.18mm to 0.2mm or maybe 0.22mm it seems.
> 3 votes
# Answer
It looks like over-extrusion. When layers are printed with 100% infill, excess material has nowhere to go and these characteristic ripples form.
Always calibrate your extruder. 3D Hubs have a good article on the topic:
How To Calibrate, Tune and Fine Tune your printer and filament
> 4 votes
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Tags: print-quality
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thread-8547 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8547 | da Vinci 1.0 cannot print PLA filament | 2019-03-25T11:14:07.800 | # Question
Title: da Vinci 1.0 cannot print PLA filament
I bought new yellow PLA filament from XYZ (1.75 mm).
Over the past I have printed many objects with my da Vinci 1.0 (ABS only). I found that while the brim is being printing (using default configuration of XYZWare; the da Vinci machines give the user very little control over print parameters, if I remember correctly the temperatures are controlled by the chip in the filament cassette), filament stopped extruding from my extruder immediately. However, ABS can be printed properly.
Could anyone tell me how can I work around ?
# Answer
> 5 votes
The answer to this specific instance appeared in the comments:
> Also, a thorough cleaning of the nozzle/hotend might also be a good idea to get rid of all the stuck ABS residue inside. – 0scar Mar 26 at 8:44
>
> The problem solved !, my ABS is stuck in nozzle !!! – 3ORZ Apr 25 at 6:52
# Answer
> 1 votes
That looks pretty bad for a number of reasons. If you've got an all-metal hotend, you can be pretty sure that your PLA issues are probably at least partially cooling-related. I'd recommend you try and find a better fan duct design for your hotend, if possible, and possibly upgrade to a better fan.
You can temporarily skirt around cooling issues with PLA in all-metal hotends by printing *more material*, which typically means one or all of the following:
1. Faster print speeds (if your printer can move quickly enough and has good acceleration)
2. Thicker lines! Surprisingly useful. If you don't want to sacrifice print detail, then make the infill lines ridiculously thick, the inner wall lines fairly thick, and the single outer perimeter "normal" thickness.
3. Thicker layer height. Normally I printed at 0.2mm like everyone else, but with PLA in my all-metal hotend, I had to up it to 0.3 with fatter lines as well.
If you can consistently keep the filament going through the hotend instead of lingering inside of it, you can basically "push" the melt zone back down into the heater block where it belongs, instead of it creeping upwards and resulting in a jam.
As a side note, the rippled surface of your brim there looks very similar to what used to happen to mine; the ripples are usually indicative of some form of over-extrusion on the first layer. I'd maybe look into checking your Z offset to make sure your print nozzle is far enough away from the bed, and maybe also check your flow rate is accurate for that particular filament. Check the filament diameter in a few places with a micrometer if you have access to one, and compare to your ABS prints to see if maybe you should adjust the flow rate down a few percent in your slicer.
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Tags: filament, pla
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thread-10459 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10459 | Why do different drivers change the noise of steppers? | 2019-07-02T00:50:19.703 | # Question
Title: Why do different drivers change the noise of steppers?
I've upgraded my stepper drivers.
I'm looking to understand why my stepper motors made noise in the first place.
# Answer
Stepper motors contain two distinct sets of coils. The current in these coils is governed by your stepper motor driver.
To move the motor in either direction, the coils are being driven one after another, and in different directions. Imagine this being a normal 3-phase AC motor, but instead of three phases, only two are used.
A "full steps" (1/1 "microstepping") would mean switching one coil off and the other on - resulting in a jerky motion to the next position. Real stepper motors have multiple sets of those coils (rather than two like in the diagram) - usually 200 or 400, giving 1.8° or 0.9° of rotation per "full step".
Such motion is usually not desired, since the immediate movement of the motor creates noise and vibration. If both coils are driven with less current (71% of the full current, the reciprocal of the square root of 2, so that the total force on the motor remains the same) during the switch from one current to the other, another position can be achieved - a "half step" between two full steps.
This can be repeated for higher number of "microsteps", with 16 being the usual compromise.
Optimal smoothness - and next to no noise - would be achieved by driving the stepper motor with pure sine waves. The closer a stepper driver can get to that pure sine wave, the lower the noise made by the stepper motor will be:
Some stepper motor drivers, most notably the TMC family of chips, can generate 256 microsteps internally, approximating a sine wave quite well.
Other stepper motor drivers (like the LV8729) can also handle 128 microsteps, but they require the printer control board to send an individual step signal for each of those steps - which may limit speed because of the additional load on the board's MCU.
> 11 votes
# Answer
To make a stepper perform a step, block signals are send to energize the coils to position the rotor. Such a block signal causes abrupt motion and triggers harmonic frequencies. This is audible as stepper noise. If the block signal is smoothed, the motion is more fluent and less noise will be observed. A similar effect is achieved using micro-stepping.
It could be that the new stepper drivers use more/less microsteps<sup>1)</sup> or a smoothed/block<sup>1)</sup> signal opposed to the previous drivers, hence less/more<sup>1)</sup> noise.
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<sup>1)</sup><sub> The question does not state if the noise is reduced or increased, but noise reduction is most probable</sub>
> 3 votes
# Answer
The coils in the stepper act like speakers. Its not that the stepper is making less noise, it's just making it in frequencies that are above the average person's hearing.
> 2 votes
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Tags: stepper-driver, stepper, knowledgebase
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thread-3202 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3202 | PLA and bed heating? | 2016-12-14T19:45:53.583 | # Question
Title: PLA and bed heating?
I've read different things about PLA and heat-bed. Some say it is not needed, others recommend 60-70°C, but not for the first layers.
For larger objects I often have the problem that the object does not stick to the blue-painters-tape-covered aluminium print plate. Instead the print "curls" up on one or more corners. To reduce this effect, I'm using a brim between 5 and 10mm. Depending on the size of the object the brim works quite well. Will heating the bed also improve the print quality by reducing the amount of heat warping / curling?
# Answer
> 6 votes
I actually find it's not needed for PLA. I generally have it heated to 40 °C and use blue painters tape along with some hairspray (I prefer Tresemme as it smells gorgeous).
I've experimented with a glass bed, and Buildtak but I find blue painters tape is the key. I overlap the blue tape ends to the bed so it sticks, then spray the hairspray onto the tape. Also bed leveling is super important as are your print settings. What you want for the first layer is to have it essentially "pushing" into the bed. That way it gets good contact and wont curl up during the print, though it can be a challenge to get off later.
**TL;DR** for PLA you dont need a heated bed, its more about the surface and 1st layer height.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Heating the bed helps me, even with PLA. I print with a 60 °C bed. The bed is 3/8" 6061 alloy aluminum, sanded with 600 grit sandpaper, coated with Elmer's purple glue stick, and dried.
The brim will help. You might make the brim thicker than one layer (like 2-3 layers).
If you look at the bottom of your print, are there large gaps where the PLA doesn't touch the bed? If so, you could zero the head closer to the bed, or increase the flow for the first layer.
I haven't set up a cooling fan, although many praise the results. It is an experiment for a future day.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Heated beds can help, but you have to be careful using too much heat. If you go above the glass transition temperature (about 60 °C for PLA), the stresses of the upper layers cooling will warp the bottom, because above the glass transition temperature, the PLA can deform.
For example, I was making very tall and skinny parts, a recipe for warping. At 65 °C, I had a bit of the bottom corners curling, but the part finished. I turned the heat up to 80 °C, and the parts warped so much they came off the build plate. I ran the exact same parts at 58 °C, and they came out beautifully every time.
A higher bed temperature can aid adhesion, (see Effect of the printing bed temperature on the adhesion of parts produced by fused filament fabrication), but if the temperature is above the glass transition, the parts can and will deform much more easily.
# Answer
> 3 votes
It really depends on your formulation. 70 °C would be on the higher end. I think I do between 70 °C - 75 °C. Not any higher.
Add a glue from a glue stick to help with keeping it on the bed.
Use a raft to reduce the issue as well.
A fan is the number one thing you can do.
The last solution is to build a heat enclosure. They are not on every 3D printer because of patents blocking them. You can easily make your own.
Technically it is not 100 % needed, i.e. the MakerBot does not use it, but the guys at MakerBot have PLA down to a science.
Also I thought Kapton is not for PLA usually... see these MatterHackers articles:
From RepRap Wiki - Glossary:
> **Raft**
>
> A technique used to prevent warping. Parts are built on top of a 'raft' of disposable material instead of directly on the build surface. The raft is larger than the part and so has more adhesion. Rarely used with heated build surfaces. For the small area models, it is very useful to prevent warping via adding a raft for the model before slicing it. It can also help with with precision parts by removing the slight first few layer distortion caused by the heated bed.
# Answer
> 3 votes
This is fundamentally a heat transfer problem. As a large print is being made, it is very thin. Thin things cool off quickly, especially when no new hot material is being placed on top in the meantime. A heated bed will only help for a time, depending on the print size, before it starts to actually contribute to warping due to rapidly cooling upper layers and still- heated lower layers.
A hack can be found by improving bed adhesion, but this leaves the underlying problem of thermal stresses intact. Only through better 3D printing thermal properties design or through better object design will the warping problem be solved rather than mitigated.
# Answer
> 1 votes
For printing PLA you can manage to succeed without a heated bed. You can use blue painting tape on any platform. It will help a lot. But sometimes the tape itself curls up and you end up with a bad print. Heated bed helps here for better adhesion of the blue tape to the bed. You can also use hair sprey to ensure that the blue tape sticks to the bed.
Hair sprey is pretty effective on ABS. If you use a heated bed + glass + hair sprey ( Akat Gardi is the best brand) you will never have any problem with your prints.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I can only go with my own experiences; a Printrbot simple metal originally with no heated bed and blue tape was fine for small parts if printed with a reasonable brim and rafts when needed (Slic3r does that) but larger prints tended to warp and curl. I upgraded to a heated bed, which I run at 55 - 60 °C for every print. Additionally, I now use Kapton tape on the bed and glue stick. I have recently reprinted a part for my printer, an LCD housing, to replace the badly warped original, which is my benchmark print. I have no warping/curling problems to the point that I have reduced the standard brim from 5 mm to 2 mm to save some material. Some additional detail - only PLA at present from a 0.4 mm extruder at 205 °C in 0.2 or 0.3 mm layer height for the finer detail. Takes longer but the results are worth it.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The answer depends a bit on the type of PLA (supplier of specific filament), type of machine, type of build platform, size of model and ambient temperature.
PLA has less issues with warping compared to ABS or Nylon, but *can* still warp depending on everything mentioned. My usual first try to minimize warping is to heat the bed. 60 - 70 °C works well but I'll also go up to 100 depending on a variety of factors. If still not having any luck, generally on larger parts I try adding a raft. If I STILL have issues after that I'll add 'helper disks' (small quarter dollar sized disks) around the part to increase the surface area of the raft. The disks will add more material but I have about a 99 % success rate using these.
If a part is going to take more than about 3 hours and I can't have any warping at all, I always use a heated build plate and place the discs all the way around the part. Generally will add about a hour or more, but well worth the extra time.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Heated bed definitely helps with PLA adhesion, it also helps depending the surface, for example PEI offers better adhesion than glass. Another option is to try to overextrude the first layer (125 %) and make sure it is squeezed out, so basically you get a wavy effect on the first layer. This should help a bit even in the curly corners. Another thing I have noticed from experience is the PLA itself, not all PLAs are the same so you could try another manufacturer or try your PLA in a friend's printer to see if you get the same effect. Generally on PLA we do not expect any warping, but the reality is that some do have.
# Answer
> 0 votes
A lot depends on exactly which PLA you use and the build surface. I'm using one of those new-fangled high-temperature PLA's (MakerGeek's Raptor PLA, black) and a BuildTac surface on a MonoPrice Select Mini v2. From my experiments, I believe that the biggest influence in preventing warping is the BuildTac.
My slicer is Simplify3d, so the settings may be in a different format than yours. I use a hot-end temperature of 240 °C, a bed temperature of 40 °C, layer height of 0.0875 mm, a first-layer modifier of 1.5, an extrusion modifier of 0.95, and a retraction distance of 3 mm.
I've never had a problem with warping, but these settings prevent stringing and allow me to more easily remove parts after printing. And yes, I wait until the bed gets to room temperature before removing the part.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Heating the bed helps with adhesion to the bed, but can seriously interfere with cooling of the layers just above the bed that are in contact with large amounts of material touching the bed. I've found that, if I have a model with a flat region touching the bed and walls leaning outward from it (overhangs) as they go up, any corners will curl upwards before they can cool if the bed is 60 °C or above - it's effectively a heat bath at the glass transition temperature that's going to be hard for a fan to overcome.
At 50 °C the effect is almost gone, and at 40 °C and below it seems entirely gone, but the exact temperature that's safe is going to depend on ambient room temperature, cooling fan power, and effectiveness of the fan duct. I've just found this as a solution to my curling-corner problems, so I might end up tweaking things more, but I think I'm going to try printing PLA without heating the bed at all unless I have trouble with adhesion.
An example showing slightly warped vertex/edge from curling corners at 50 °C vs good ones at lower temperatures:
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Tags: pla, heated-bed, warping
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thread-10460 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10460 | Help diagnose Z-banding | 2019-07-02T02:34:32.817 | # Question
Title: Help diagnose Z-banding
The printer is "Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2".
This is how my printed fan part looks like:
These printers are notorious for their Z lead screw assembly (M4 bolt & nut) so I installed flex coupler and aligned the M4 bolt and motor shaft so that the wobble is minimal. It is still there, but I don't think this amount of wobble would produce something like what I experience. Please check out the timelapse video at the end.
I also tightened up Z guide rails (no rattle, very little slop)
Moreover the banding appears to be less pronounced and have alot greater period for vase prints
(this is extruded ellipse printed along Y axis). I tried:
1. slowing down print by 50 % - no effect on banding.
2. monitored hotend temperature with external probe on the heater block (-+5 °C)
The banding appears to be almost exclusively in Y axis direction; for example, the same ellipse printed along X axis:
Now, same ellipse in layered mode (seam side) printed along Y axis
# Answer
This differs from the traditional banding as observed from Z wobble induced banding as e.g. explained in this answer.
Your banding patterns clearly seem to form diagonal bands, this is most probably a combination of the lead and the full rotation of the stepper. The most logical explanation is that the layer shifts as a whole in X-Y direction (when seen against the print height, this movement is concentric seen from the top). This means that the next layer is positioned over the previous layer in a concentric pattern. This hints to some sort of defect in your X/Y-plane assembly and should be investigated further.
This is difficult to visualize, but this sketch shows the issue for some layers:
This could be related to the belts of the X and Y-axis, play on the drive pulleys, non-straight lead screw, guide rods with play, play in general, Z-stepper alignment to the threaded rod, etc. Considering the amount of Z-wobble fixes shared by the unofficial MP Select Wiki, the best place to look for is the Z-stepper to lead screw coupling.
> 2 votes
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Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting, monoprice-select-mini
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thread-10472 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10472 | What are the tradeoffs of a cantilever printer design? | 2019-07-03T14:24:33.327 | # Question
Title: What are the tradeoffs of a cantilever printer design?
There are several cantilever-style printers around like some DIYs (2018), the TronXY-X1, the Monoprice Select Mini, Tiertime's Cetus line and the 2019 Prusa Mini<sup>links for information, no affiliation</sup>.
While the specs of the printers are very different, what are the main benefits, tradeoffs and drawbacks that are **inherent in the design** compared to a more traditional Core-XY or Prusa/Portal design?
# Answer
Cantilever printers constrain the X-axis carriage only on one side and have a free hanging side. This means, that the X-beam has to be rather sturdy and is limited in length, making them usually quite small machines.
Another tradeoff stemming from this source is, that they have to stiffen this one connection as much as possible. Any play on the connection leads to increasingly large errors the further the printhead is out from the Z-Axis and can lead to bad prints, banding and total failures of prints. This behavior, at least on the TronXY-X1, is sometimes called Z-Wobble and has brought up some aftermarket modifications. For example, this bracket constrains the movement of the X-cantilever.
While all axis would be affected by bad constraints, a cantilever suffers the most: The cantilever (if not well constrained) can deflect in both XY and XZ plane, pretty much opening a cone with the tip at the leadscrew nut. A one side-leadscrew portal design can only deflect in the XZ plane, opening an angle along with the center in the leadscrew nut. A double leadscrew design has, constrains both ends of the X-axis and prevents deflection but could suffer from bending the portal bar.
The main benefit of a cantilever design is that being of a rather simple design with few moving parts, understanding as well as repairing and modifying the motion control system is fairly easy. The ease of access and low component number also allows reducing manufacturing costs to some degree.
Another thing of note is, that these printers usually have a fairly small form factor, allowing them to be used in small workshops without taking up too much space. However, their build-volume to occupied-volume ratio usually is not as good as other designs - printers with a much larger build volume just get a much better ratio there.
> 4 votes
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Tags: printer-building, desktop-printer
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thread-10475 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10475 | Do Cura's self-crossing infill patterns account for excess material from self-crossing? | 2019-07-03T18:51:38.350 | # Question
Title: Do Cura's self-crossing infill patterns account for excess material from self-crossing?
As far as I can tell, Cura's infill patterns which are self-crossing, such as `triangles`, don't do anything special to account for extruding material over the crossing points multiple times. In theory this should produce either a blob around the crossing point, or excess pressure in the extruder due to blockage from the alread-deposited material that will result in over-extrusion after the point is crossed until the excess pressure is dissipated.
Is Cura doing anything to account for this? It doesn't seem to do travel moves across the intersection, but maybe it's adjusting the overall flow to compensate for the crossings "on average".
If not, it seems like crossing points near the walls would be a source of dimensional accuracy problems, which I've seen in tightly confined areas and which I'm looking for a root cause for.
# Answer
> 2 votes
With most filaments you don't need to do anything special to account for overfill caused by these crossing points. When the nozzle extrudes the second direction, it pushes the lines laid by the first direction out of the way. The same happens when the third direction crosses the first two. There's a blob, but it's a blob within the plane of the layer, so it shouldn't stick up out of the layer and upset subsequent layers. There are two complications which can occur though:
1. When filling each direction, it's usual to keep extruding when moving from one line to the next (not a travel move), which results in getting an extra half perimeter around your infill. This is fine for a single raster pattern, and for box infill, but with triangle, hexagram, or similar, you'd get three half-perimeters (one for each direction). The slicer needs to offset the third direction so that those extra perimeters don't overlap. I don't know how Cura handles this; it's possible that's the source of the dimensional problems you're seeing.
2. With abrasive filaments, or those that don't stretch (such as carbon fibre or metal fill filament), the "pushing the existing lines out of the way" doesn't really work. You just end up wearing down the outside of the nozzle and getting the kind of blobs you're afraid of, sticking up into the next layer. It's just best to avoid infill with crossings (box, triangle, hexagram, etc.) on such filaments.
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Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, slicing, infill, dimensional-accuracy
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thread-10428 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10428 | Tevo Tarantula auto bed leveling config | 2019-06-29T20:54:03.913 | # Question
Title: Tevo Tarantula auto bed leveling config
As discussed previously on a post, Tevo tarantula Z- port burnt, I've burnt one of my Z endstops ports (I solved this issue and I'm using the Z+ port, normally). I did that trying to install an auto bed leveling sensor. I don't want to mess up again...
I have a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX NPN sensor.
Brown wire is connected to the N (+) of the power supply, blue and black wire connected as shown in the picture (pay attention to the red markings on the white wire):
Any advice about the wiring is welcome. But I hope it's right, I've read in several places<sup>1</sup> that this type of sensor doesn't require any kind of resistor.
I'm using the last version of Jim Brown firmware.
Here it is what I've changed so far:
```
//#define BLTOUCH // ANTClabs BLTouch sensor (might also work with clones)
//#define BLTOUCH_V3 // ANTCLabs BLTouch sensor version 3
//#define SN04 // Green sensor
#define INDUCTIVE_NO // Normally open inductive sensor
//#define INDUCTIVE_NC // Normally closed inductive sensor
//#define SERVO_PROBE // Endstop switch on rotating arm. Set servo angles!
//#define NOZZLE_PROBE // Nozzle wired up to contact metal on bed
//#define TRIPOINT
//#define LINEAR
//#define BILINEAR
#define UBL
//#define MANUAL
```
Let's go to my issues:
1. Before flashing this configs, the sensor's LED would go on near metal and off far from metal. With this new config the LED remains off until I place the sensor near metal... But after it goes on, it remains on, even when far from metal.
2. When I home the axis, I try to simulate the position of the Z axis, holding the sensor close to a metal plate. But the Z axis moves up... up... up... Doesn't matter what I do with the sensor (hold close or distant from metal). Until some point and it stops.
So far nothing is fried and I'm trying to make it work right now. It seems to me (based on what I read) that a NPN sensor really doesn't need anything. Just plug on the power supply and board.
So... basically, as you can see, I have no idea of what I'm doing. I hope someone can help me... I've tried to find answers and figure it out by myself. I'm not being lazy here...
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<sub>BTW I'm wondering if Jim Brown is still better than the official Marlin Firmware... So I'm willing to change it if that is the opinion of the pros! </sub>
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### Footnote
<sup>1</sup> For example, in the second post to How do I wire my lj18A3-8-Z/BX to my prusa? going insane
# Answer
An NPN sensor is wired differently from a PNP sensor. The signal wire is the black wire, blue is the ground wire.
According to this posting, Don’t trust the internet (and how to add an Inductive Proximity Sensor to your 3D printer the proper and easiest way, you need to insert a 6.8 kΩ resistor in between the black and the blue wire, I quote:
> ...Indeed, all we need to do is add a single 6.8 kΩ resistor between BLACK and BLUE and all should work fine.
Alternatively, a diode in the black wire would also work, I quote:
> ... So I did test using a diode and that also works perfectly fine, simply because the direction in which the 12 V current would like to flow when the sensor is open will be blocked by the diode. The internal (or hardware) pull-up still pulls the Atmega’s sensor pin to **HIGH** however.
> ... But as soon as the sensor is closed, the diode would allow the 5 V current to flow in the opposite direction towards ground, which pulls the Atmega’s sensor pin to **LOW**.
> 1 votes
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Tags: tevo-tarantula, inductive-sensor
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thread-10487 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10487 | What solvents are appropriate for smoothing/finishing ASA? | 2019-07-04T16:04:27.483 | # Question
Title: What solvents are appropriate for smoothing/finishing ASA?
When I print parts in ABS, acetone vapour smoothing is a good technique to get a smooth finish. Is there an equivalent solvent or process for parts printed in ASA? Ideally I'm looking for something as easy to obtain as acetone, and not so awful a chemical that I wouldn't want to work with it, but I'd still be curious to learn about less friendly solvents.
# Answer
ASA is Acrylonitrile styrene acrylate. According to Wikipedia:
> ASA can be solvent-welded, using e.g. cyclohexane, 1,2-dichloroethane, methylene chloride, or 2-butanone. Such solvents can also join ASA with ABS and SAN. Solutions of ASA in these solvents can also be used as adhesives.
>
> <sup>Staff, PDL (1997). Handbook of Plastics Joining: A Practical Guide. Elsevier Science. p. 515.</sup>
Solvent-welding means that the material is at least somewhat easily soluble in these fluids (they dissolve the material at the interface and as they evaporate, the former interface layers bond as if molded or welded), and the fact that the material can become an adhesive means that it is somewhat good soluble in these.
The least dangerous (and thus most advised from my side) of these 4 is 2-butanone, the others are listed as carcinogenic, and in the case of 1,2-dichloroethane, also toxic.
If these solvents can be used as a smoother similar to acetone with ABS would need testing, but a short exposition to their vapors should suffice to test this.
### Addendum:
These four solvents also are able to solve Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), which is a quite similar plastic in regards to its contents (butadiene instead of acrylate).
> The acrylate rubber differs from the butadiene based rubber by absence of double bonds, which gives the material about ten times the weathering resistance and resistance to ultraviolet radiation of ABS, higher long-term heat resistance, and better chemical resistance. <sup>Wikipedia</sup>
Acetone might prove to be also a possible option, but results might differ from those on ABS.
> 4 votes
# Answer
From Simplify3D - ASA:
> ASA can be smoothed using controlled exposure to acetone vapors (a process called “vapor smoothing”).
> 3 votes
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Tags: smoothing, asa
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thread-10486 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10486 | Sketchup designed object printing first layer incorrectly | 2019-07-04T15:53:57.660 | # Question
Title: Sketchup designed object printing first layer incorrectly
I am a 3D printing beginner but wanted to get stuck in straight away and design my own 3D objects. I used Sketchup to design a badge of one of my logos. I make sure that all faces of my object are not inside out and show a white face in Sketchup. I also make my entire object a component before exporting into a .stl file. However, when I import into Ultimaker Cura, the base of the object is red. This to my understanding means there is an issue with that face.I have played around with Sketchup several times by not creating a component, reversing the face and I still have no luck. When I reverse the base face in Sketchup so that it is grey, it then shows up in Ultimaker Cura as okay (not red). But when I 3D print it, it still prints it very strangely. I would like to note I am 3D printing with a raft and when I do not use a raft, the object prints fine. Also I have tested printing a small 3D cube with the same settings and the results are exactly the same. Surely you can design objects in Sketchup and print with a raft?
# Answer
> 1 votes
A red surface coloring is normal for the bottom when viewed in Ultimaker Cura, nothing to worry about that (e.i. when that face is touching the build plate; if it is unsupported, you should add support structures but a raft is generally not necessary for PLA).
Rafts are useful when you print high temperature materials that have a large shrinkage when cooled from print to bed temperature (this somewhat mitigates the problems of curling up corners or warping prints), for PLA it is not needed. As seen from the print that is printed on the raft, it's clear that the print to raft distance is to large, the first print object layer is not adhering to the top raft layer very well.
The print that is printed without a raft doesn't look too bad. Some printer extruder calibration could further improve the quality.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Note: This answer is curently wrong because I mentally reversed your "with raft" and "without raft" columns. I'll attempt to fix it soon.
This doesn't look like a problem with your model, but rather a problem with your bed height or slicer settings (possibly both) that may be affecting your particular model worse than others. It's clear from the photo of the bottom of your print that the extrusions that were supposed to be circular failed to adhere to the bed, and instead got pulled to chords between points they happened to adhere at. This could be caused by a mix of:
* Excessive print speed for the first layer. Generally I would limit it to 30 mm/s or less to give the material the best chance to stick.
* Excess space between the nozzle and bed. Could be caused by improper adjustment of bed height ("leveling"), or by using a layer thickness that's too high (roughly, more than 75-80% of nozzle width).
* Underextrusion, possibly caused by insufficient print temperature, incorrect filament diameter setting, or poor quality filament with wrong diameter, among other things.
Using a raft mitigates these things by moving the potential problem to the interface between the raft and the bed; once there's a raft sticking to the bed, printing of the model can ignore the problem. But you *should never need a raft*. It's a waste of plastic and a workaround for problems that have better fixes, not a necessary part of 3D printing.
The "red" in Cura is not a problem; as I understand it, Cura shows all parts of the model that aren't supported *by other parts of the model* in red, and this includes the base. However, it is possible that your model has some stray part extruding below the bottom, causing the whole thing (except that stray part) to be printed starting one layer above the print bed with nothing to adhere to. You can check if this is the case in Cura by switching to layer view and looking at the first layer. You should see the whole surface that you want to adhere to the bed; if instead you see just one or a few small blobs, that's your problem.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, pla, rafts
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thread-2823 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2823 | Should I use different nozzles for different materials? | 2016-09-29T20:54:17.693 | # Question
Title: Should I use different nozzles for different materials?
I know I should use different nozzles for filaments that use vastly different temperatures but what about filament types that use similar temperatures?
For example, PLA and PLA composites like ColorFabb Woodfill filament. Should I use a separate nozzle for that?
# Answer
There is absolutely no reason to use different nozzles, *not even if filaments do require different temperatures*.
The only exception is when printing abrasive filaments (such as glow-in-the-dark and carbon-fiber) in which case you should use an abrasion-resistant, stainless steel nozzle. This nozzle can also be used to to print "regular" filaments but a regular brass nozzle has slightly more favorable properties if you do not require abrasion resistance.
> 4 votes
# Answer
It depends on the size of the nozzle you are using. If you are using a small nozzle, e.g. 0.2 mm, normally, you should increase the nozzle diameter (filament manufacturers often refer to about 0.5 mm nozzle diameters). Wood/cork, or whatever particle filled filament requires a somewhat larger diameter to prevent clogging.
---
In addition to Tom's answer, note that there are stainless steel nozzles and hardened steel nozzles. The latter is harder than the prior and should be used for abrasive filaments, like filament filled with metal particles or some sort of abrasive fibres like glass or carbon fibre. Note that the addition of fibres or particles may require you to increase the nozzle diameter as fibres or particles may cause clogging. A last nozzle discussed is the nozzle with an embedded industrial Ruby, a design of Anders Olsson, a research engineer at Uppsala University, more information is found on the Olsson Ruby website.
From the Olsson Ruby website, the following interesting image is shown, comparing the wear resistance of the various nozzle materials up to 0.5 mm *(from left to right; brass, stainless steel and hardened steel by printing respectively 0.3 kg, 1.0 kg and 4 kg of carbon fibre filled filament)*:
> 2 votes
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Tags: nozzle
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thread-10488 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10488 | How to write arcs directly in G-code? | 2019-07-04T16:19:25.653 | # Question
Title: How to write arcs directly in G-code?
How can I write G-code for a triangle without sharp tips?
I want to generate the corners manually, rather than using a slicer to generate them, just to know how it is done.
# Answer
First, convert the given measurements into a sketch...
## G-code shenanigans
we actually have the printer do circles.. let's plot that out...
Using that, it's easy to write the G-code using the Documentation for G1 and G2. You'll have to add the E values to extrude something along the paths, but your sketch would turn into this path:
```
G92 X0 Y0 ; the current position is now (0,0) on the XY
G90 ;Abolute mode for everything...
M83 ;...but for the E-argument, so you can just put the length into the extrusions that are to be done
G0 X10.66 Y2
G2 R5 X6.33 Y9.5 ; Alternate: G3 I0 J5 X6.33 Y9.5
G1 X45.66 Y77.638
G2 R5 X54.33 Y77.638 ; Alternate: G3 I4.33 Y-2.5 X54.33 Y77.638
G1 93.67 Y9.5
G2 R5 X89.33 Y2 ; Alternate: G3 I-4.33 Y-2.5 X89.33 Y2
G1 X10.66 Y2
G0 X0 Y0
G91 ; return to relative coordinates
```
**This code has to be prefixed by a move to where you want to start the pattern** and will **not** know if you move it off the build plate, so keep 100 mm X and 87 mm in Y of the allowable build plate. It will end exactly where you started it.
## Iterative approach
In many uses of g-code, *rounded* corners are actually n-gons with a very high number n. then we only need `G1` and can easily calculate the length of the stretches and fill in the G1. We need to iterate down to somewhat circular...
Let's start iterating with n=3 aka a triangle, which gives a direct line over the corner gives this:
going to n=6 (hexagon) follows the curve a lot better...
going to n=12 looks almost round on a larger scale...
and when we reach n=24, we are pretty close to the circle..
And as we go above n=6, we also get easier math for the corners, as we always get the same lengths of movement along X and Y just swapped around due to symmetry.
With all these stretches defined, we could start to work in *relative* coordinates easily, again without E, and only for the bottom left corner:
```
G0 X10.66 Y2
G1 X-1.294 Y0.17
G1 X-1.206 Y0.5
G1 X-1.036 Y0.795
G1 X-0.795 X1.036
G1 X-0.5 Y1.206
G1 X-0.17 Y1.294
G1 X0.17 Y1.294
G1 X0.5 Y1.036
...
```
> 6 votes
# Answer
Marlin has `G2` (clockwise arc) and `G3` (counterclockwise arc) commands that could be used to do this. You can find detailed documentation for the command here.
Basically, you can use
> G2 R1 X5 Y5
to draw a (clockwise) arc from the current position to $(X,Y)=(5,5)$ with a radius of $1$.
So, your rounded triangle could be drawn with 3 straight line moves and 3 arc moves. Figuring out the exact coordinates for each move would be a quite challenging geometry exercise, as you'd need to know where the straight line portion of each side ends and the rounded portion starts.
> 5 votes
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Tags: g-code, cad
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thread-8002 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8002 | After market bed heater for Intamsys Funmat HT 3D Printer | 2019-01-17T19:09:35.860 | # Question
Title: After market bed heater for Intamsys Funmat HT 3D Printer
I am in college and am doing a team competition to print PPSU filament, and get the best results. This is being put on by the Solvay company, who makes the material. Our team signed up and the university bought us an Intamsys Funmat HT 3D Printer, which said it was capable of printing PPSU. However, the company doing the competition did not release the information that the bed plate must be a high temperature to avoid warping (Greater than 200 °C). However, our plate only reaches a temperature of 160. Does anyone know of any aftermarket heaters that would work with this printer?
Maximum temperatures according to Intamys: Chamber 90 °C, Magnetic Build Plate 160 °C, Extruder 450 °C
# Answer
If you're a brave individual you might try insulating the bottom of your heated bed. You're going to want to get fiberglass or something that can actually withstand the temperatures you're trying to reach; anything past about 230 °C and you'll get organic things like cork and cotton starting to smoke. 200 °C is pretty absurd for a print bed temperature unless you're printing some pretty exotic materials.
Aside from insulating the bottom of the bed to aid in heat retention, you might also try getting an external FET chip for your heated bed, like is recommended for the RAMPS1.4 boards since their connectors don't handle high amperage loads well. External FET plus a 24 V PSU might give you the kind of temperature range you're apparently aiming for. Best of luck with that, and try not to set your entire setup on fire, 200 °C really is kind of absurd for an entire print plate.
**TL;DR:**
1. Insulate
2. External FET chip
3. 24V PSU
> 2 votes
# Answer
Inspired by the answer from Nach0z, according to my back of the notepad radiative emission approximation, you need about a 3x increase in bed dissipation to get from $ \Delta T$ of 130 °C up to 170 °C. So that would correspond to an increase from 12 V *at the bed* to 18 V. As the current increases, the wire losses would also increase.
Sounds like a high power laptop charger could possibly fit the bill at 19V. Obviously this leaves a risk that the bed will be damaged, but I think it is better to aim for a steady load rather than pwm and a higher peak energy than necessary.
> 0 votes
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Tags: print-quality
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thread-2826 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2826 | Height of printed part is incorrect | 2016-09-30T15:51:15.900 | # Question
Title: Height of printed part is incorrect
I have a weird problem with my old 3D printer, it is a Prusa/Mendel type. When I print a 20 mm cube, X and Y are correct, Z is resulting 16 to 17 mm. I have checked the correctness of the movement on Z using the manual controls and there are no issues.
I played a bit with the layer thickness, I have a 0.4 mm nozzle, setting the layer height to 0.12 mm (normally is on 0.16 mm) but no changes in the result. I am printing PLA on a cold bed at 180 °C without any other particular defect.
I would appreciate some direction on how to solve such problem.
# Answer
> 3 votes
You should check that the steps per mm for your Z-axis are set correctly. This depends on the pitch of the leadscrews/threaded rods driving the axis and parameters of your steppers (microstepping and raw steps/revolution). This Calculator.
Make sure that your layer height is a multiple of a full step of the Z-stepper. The Z-stepper may be disabled intermittently, and when re-enabled it may "snap" to the nearest full step position. If your layer height requires microstepping, you may notice it getting rounded down or up due to this.
For instance, if a full step were 0.08 mm, then 0.16 mm layers would require 2 full steps, printing fine. 0.12 mm layers would require 1 full step and a half microstep. Due to rounding, some layers might be reduced to 0.08 mm instead. This might account for the height discrepancy you're seeing (though 0.08 mm is quite a high, unrealistic amount for a full-step).
# Answer
> 2 votes
You could check that the stepper driver IC for the z direction is not getting too hot while printing. If this is the case it may be that the current adjustment of the stepper driver is set incorrect causing it to skip steps. however you would expect the same behaviour in manual operation.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Thanks to your advices I pointed my effort on the root of the possible cause on the Z axis. I swapped the Polou driver between x and z and clearly noted that now the problem is on x. I had to conclude that the problem is with the Polou driver which randomly looses steps. What is surprising me is that on the Z axis I have two motor type Nema 14 which should work at 0,75A therefore 1,5 A total. The Polou driver, old type, is rated at 1A. So it is not a surprise, now that I have learned about this configuration, that the z driver is giving troubles. The problem was there since the beginning and with the ageing of the components it revealed itself. I will replace the actual Polou drivers with the new type rated at 2 A and restart from there. Thanks for the advices.
# Answer
> 0 votes
A suitable test part for this problem, to check if the bad scaling is linear or the result of missing steps (as was identified in this case) would be a ramp, or sequence of steps. You can check the linearity using a straight edge, and would be able to perform repeated tests to identify of there was a specific Z location where steps were more likely to be lost (for example due to some tightness in the motion system).
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Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting, prusa-mendel
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thread-10502 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10502 | Standby hotend and bed heating with inactivity timer after print? | 2019-07-06T01:55:50.227 | # Question
Title: Standby hotend and bed heating with inactivity timer after print?
Is there any G-code command to turn off hotend/bed heating after a specified timeout? I'd like to edit my end G-code to leave them heated to a standby temperature, rather than immediately letting them cool down, to eliminate the delay of re-heating between prints, but obviously it's not a good thing to leave them heated indefinitely.
# Answer
### Pausing
You could set temperatures for hotend and bed (respectively `M104` and `M140` and after that introduce a pause/dwell time with `G4`. After the pause, you could lower temperatures and proceed the shutdown of the printer, as such the setting of the idle temperatures and dwell time need to be done in the beginning of your end G-code in your slicer.
### Not powering down
Alternatively, you could just not power down the hotend and bed. A typical end G-code consists of de-powering the fans, steppers, temperatures and positioning the head in a parking position, e.g.:
```
M106 S0 ; Turn fan off
M104 S0 ; Turn extruder off
M140 S0 ; Turn off bed
// G91 ; Change to relative positioning
// G1 Z30 E-2 F3000 ; Raise Z 30mm (lowers the bed) NEVER DO THIS, IT WILL DESTROY YOUR PRINTER IF YOU PRINT LARGER THAN MAX-Z MINUS 30 MM
// G90 ; Switch back to absolute mode
G1 X0 Y0 ; Move X/Y to origin
M84 ; Disable steppers
```
You could easily change the temperatures to standby values:
```
M106 S0 ; Turn fan off
M104 S160 ; Turn extruder to standby
M140 S40 ; Turn bed to standby
// G91 ; Change to relative positioning
// G1 Z30 E-2 F3000 ; Raise Z 30mm (lowers the bed) NEVER DO THIS, IT WILL DESTROY YOUR PRINTER IF YOU PRINT LARGER THAN MAX-Z MINUS 30 MM
// G90 ; Switch back to absolute mode
G1 X0 Y0 ; Move X/Y to origin
M84 ; Disable steppers
```
> 2 votes
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Tags: g-code
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thread-10437 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10437 | Problem in 3D printing of an empty model | 2019-06-30T18:33:02.347 | # Question
Title: Problem in 3D printing of an empty model
I'm new to 3D printing. I modeled an empty bird in Blender (the stl file of model is presented). I tested the model in Blender (using 3D printing tool) and also the Netfabb software. They don't show any error. However, when I load this model in Ultimaker Cura for printing, as shown in the last image, the result is only a cylinder shape bird. I have seen many 3D printed empty models on internet. Why can't my model be printed correctly? the download link of the model
>
# Answer
You have modeled your bird. So far so good, but you likely only modeled a single surface and not a closed surface body. The crucial step was forgotten, as your pictures 1 and 2 show: you have designed a single surface for most of the object, not a body. To turn the bird into a printable object needs it not to be a single surface but a surface enclosing a volume that has some thickness.
At the moment, it looks like this: 640 vertices, NO enclosed space.
To achieve an even thickness object in blender:
* `A` to choose the whole model
* `E` for extrude Region
* `Z` `Z` to constrain movement to Z axis
* type in the wanted thickness
+ remember, that the grid in Blender is usually in cm, while slicing programs reference in mm!
* close the edges by creating faces there (chose 3 and `F`)
* `A` to grab everything
* `W` then `R` to *remove doubles*, increase the merging distance to 0.05 (it takes away hundreds of superfluous, slightly shifted vertices!)
* `CTRL`+`N` to recalculate normals Make sure to check the slicer, because we have some strays, visible in red... where are those? They are faces hidden in the body!
Hide the underside (Select nothing, allow viewing through the object, `3` \> `B` \> draw a box around the lowest layer \> `H`)
If you have the normals visible, you'll see the iffy areas now. Fix them by removing the superfluous faces and flipping those that are not superfuous but just inside out (`W`\>`F`). One example area I highlight in the next picture
In the end, it should look like this in cura:
Make sure to check layer view and possibly thicken some areas manually - or make a box-part for the top, so you can ensure printability. As you'll see, at some scales, some walls are too thin due to how we extruded along Z only.
### Alternate ways
As noted in the comments, instead of the Z-Extrude, a model with very vertical walls could benefit from using the `solidify` modifier. You will have to add it via object mode, modifiers and then choosing `solidify` and setting a positive thickness. To properly convert the visible modifier into an actual change of the model for the export, you will have to `Apply` the modifier.
Afterwards, go back to hunting stray internal surfaces and flipped faces.
> 4 votes
# Answer
after a lot of search, i used the autodesk Meshmixer to add thickness to the model. I used the blender only for modeling and didn't use the solidify modifier to add thickness to the model. Then in autodesk Meshmixer, using select→ edit → Extrude, i added thickness to the model (the new stl file is presented). It seems that the new model can be printed. However, the blue lines can be seen in the print preview of Ultimaker Cura and i dont know how to remove them. Unfortunately, i haven't a 3d printer to test the model, but it seems that it is printable. the link of repaired stl file
> 3 votes
# Answer
Slicers don't do well with "empty" (hollow) bodies, or bodies with secret holes in it. You need to supply a filled body<sup>1</sup>, the slicer will make it mostly empty anyways (depending on the infill percentage). Also, you need to have infill, else the top cannot be printed as it does not have any support.
---
### Footnote
<sup>1</sup> This means the body has to have one continuous surface without gaps or holes that encloses a volume. Among the most simple examples are spheres and cubes.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, 3d-design, blender
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thread-10477 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10477 | 3D Print Enclosure | 2019-07-03T21:12:15.560 | # Question
Title: 3D Print Enclosure
Developing an electronic product for which I'll need an enclosure. It's about 50x30x20mm and should survive higher temperatures (50-60 degrees). Because of the low volume (under 500 required per year), I'd like to go for an enclosure option that doesn't require a huge upfront cost. So ended up at 3d printing. As the product will retail for around 500$, the surface finish needs to be up to a higher quality than the standard pla prints that I've seen. From my own research (3d printing noob), the best material for this would be ABS. Maybe with some manual polishing at the end. Then I'd either buy a 3d printer and do it myself or find a company to do it.
What am I missing? :)
Anything I'm missing? Thanks a lot.
# Answer
> 2 votes
ABS should be able to handle the the temperatures you describe. ABS will have a similar finish to PLA when it first comes off the printer, but you can refine and smooth your results via an acetone vapor treatment. This only takes a few minutes per piece, and can cost as little as a $1 bottle of fingernail polish remover, a used coffee can, a bit of wire, and some paper towels.
What you're missing is the hobby-level 3D printers ($1000 and below) can be *extremely* finicky. You're not gonna get the kind of quality you need the first print out of the gate. Or the second. Probably not the third or fourth, either. And then you'll find every now and then something isn't quite right any more, and you'll need to troubleshoot why.
You certainly can make this work... just be prepared for what you're getting into.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Hire someone on fiver or upwork to design it for you, and then hire a company to make them for you out of ABS. Then you can do the smoothing yourself. If you're getting into 3d printing so that you can be cost effective on just one design, the outsource it. If you are planning to do different designs over that year, then pick it up yourself. If you want quality now, however, then outsource.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I recently started using ABS - while easily printable, you'll really want to use a filter or make sure to use the printer in a well ventilated area because of the fumes.
With your required temperature range of only 60°C, **PETG** would also be a viable as an easier and safer to print alternative. However, it is not smoothable with acetone like ABS is, though you can get very high-quality surface finish from the raw print if you build a decent printer.
# Answer
> 0 votes
ABS would be ok for these temperatures. But 3d-printing, cleaning up the print and smoothing the surface to get a marketable device takes time and effort. So I guess that for a few hundred enclosures you'd be far better/cheaper off having them manufactured (in China?) than trying to print them yourself. Unless the design changes often of course.
# Answer
> 0 votes
What you could also try is ASA. It is similar to ABS and is really strong.
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Tags: 3d-design, abs, electronics
--- |
thread-10515 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10515 | Object's height not a multiple of layer height | 2019-07-07T18:41:11.547 | # Question
Title: Object's height not a multiple of layer height
This basic question has been bothering me for a while.
Let's say I'm printing an object of height 20.1 mm with 0.2 mm layers. What will the slicer do? in other words, how will it print the last layer? Since I'm printing with 0.2 mm layers, my object will be printed in 11 layers, but the last one would make my object 20.2 mm high. Is there some sort of compensation (in Slic3r or Cura for example), or will I just get an inaccurate object?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Slicers will round off to the next nearest layer, so 20.2 mm in your case. However, you can get to 20.1 mm if you use a 0.3 mm first layer.
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Tags: slicing, dimensional-accuracy
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thread-10509 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10509 | How would you clean/prepare a flexible/magnetic mat (e.g. Ender 5) as compared to a glass bed? | 2019-07-07T02:34:02.327 | # Question
Title: How would you clean/prepare a flexible/magnetic mat (e.g. Ender 5) as compared to a glass bed?
I have started printing about a month ago on an Ender 5 (using mostly PLA but recently also PETG) and it seems it's about time to give the print bed a more thorough cleaning than what I usually do after most prints. I'm using the flexible magnetic mat that came with the printer which has a slightly rough surface, but all of the cleaning suggestions I found so far either did not mention the bed material or were specifically for glass beds.
Can/should I use stuff like acetone or rubbing alcohol on this? Or should I stick to warm soap water? I have had some fairly decent results with spectacle cleaning tissues but that will only remove grease, not filament residue.
Also, I am occasionally having some first layer adhesion issues (especially with the PETG or when printing things with a circular base) and I was wondering whether common suggestions like glue sticks or hairspray to prepare the bed for printing can also be applied to the flex mat?
# Answer
I have the WhamBam system which uses a PEX layer over flex steel (which sticks to a magnetic sheet on the printer bed). To clean old material off, I use a "brass sponge" intended for cleaning soldering iron tips to remove the old plastic, then give it a wipe with a paper towel with some isopropyl alchohol (I have 99.99 anhydrous on hand as I use that for cleaning printed circuit boards as well).
The brass sponge is fairly soft, does a good job of grabbing the old plastic without tearing up the PEX layer.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Just about every reference I've seen for non-glass beds is to stay away from acetone. Denatured alcohol is likely a safe bet for beds with surfaces that are not impenetrable. If you can identify the bed material, you'll have a better shot at getting a definitive answer.
If you have filament residue, you won't get it clear without some mechanical effort, unless you had an adhesive layer between the bed and the filament. Even a plastic scraper can be effective in clearing the debris.
> 2 votes
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Tags: adhesion, build-plate, maintenance, creality-ender-5
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thread-10512 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10512 | Tryinng to get CAELinux to boot | 2019-07-07T15:44:51.407 | # Question
Title: Tryinng to get CAELinux to boot
I believe that CAELinux has successfully installed on a SD card on a laptop. When I rebooted what I am left with is a GRUB prompt. If I enter the chainloader command it expects things like the device name of the linux image. I really want to know if CAELinux has installed and if it runs OK. Then I shall learn more about GRUB because I have another distribution that I am interested in.
How can I simply start CAELinux from the GRUB prompt?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Per the Getting Started page,
> As CAELinux is a customized Xubuntu 16.04 distribution, the installation instructions (and then administration) for Xubuntu/Ubuntu all apply to CAELinux. For more instructions on how to install CAELinux on hard drive, please follow the Ubuntu instructions here: https://help.ubuntu.com/community/GraphicalInstall
Based on the information provided above, I think this question is off-topic for this site, and should be migrated to either Unix & Linux, or Ask Ubuntu.
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Tags: linux
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thread-10513 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10513 | How can I add an extra fan, controlled by a microcontroller, to my board? | 2019-07-07T18:04:14.470 | # Question
Title: How can I add an extra fan, controlled by a microcontroller, to my board?
I recently discovered this kit after reading this Instructables, Adding More Extruders to Any 3d Printer:
>
I'm pretty sure I can use this kit with my board since it uses the same drivers as mine. But that's for motors, not fans. And while I know G-code pretty well, I'm not sure how I would use this to activate and deactivate a fan from G-code. There is probably a better way to do this.
The board I am using is from an FLSUN Large Scale 3D printer. Here is a picture of the board:
There appears to be only one labeled pin for the fan. BUT even if there are other pins that I don't recognize, they would have to be controlled by a micro controller (G-code commands). There appear to be a bunch of un-used pins in the bottom right of the board. But if this board just can't do it, there is a newer board here: \[link removed\].
It does seem like it is using Arduino and the newer board might have extra pins for a fan. But at that point, would it be easier (cheaper) to just control the fan from the extruder extender kit? Would I just set it as an extruder with a really high filament extrusion speed and send appropriate G-code commands when needed to run it at max voltage?
I know on my Lulzbot Mini there is a "parts cooling" fan which allows you to cool off the layers as your structure rises vertically. This is a fan I want. The parts cooling fan *must* be controlled by the micro controller. It only comes on when printing vertically.
I would like to actually add two fans like this to my 3D printer. One of them is a \>= 5 V cooling fan like above. Another is a regular 12 V cooling fan for an extra extruder that I am adding.
# Answer
The MKS Gen L v1.0 Board you are using does support microcontroller controlled fans without doing some surface level modification to the board via the `D9/FAN`. The port you marked FAN is not a controllable port, it runs a direct 12/24 V all the time and should be used for the Hotend cooling solution. The ports `D7/HE1` and `D10/HE0` are for two hotendes, corresponding to `E0` and `E1`.
## Variant A: Swappy Fans
This is the more tricky variant and does need both coding and wiring expertise.
You'll have to run both hotend cooling fans via that one port in the top left corner. Make sure they are running fast enough to keep the heatsinks cool and prevent heat creep!
Your **custom** Firmware will have to define `D9` as a microcontroller controlled Fan instead of a 100 % running fan as the normal firmware is most likely.
Without extra hardware, you can't get 2 individually controllable ports from `D9`, but you can use, the fact that you don't want part cooling for a hotends in 'resting' position. So a pair of couple Normally Closed switches cab achieve disabling of the resting hotend's part cooling fan:
* make a wire splitter for D9, so that you have both `+` and both `-`-wires connect to the one `+`/`-`-pin on the board. You'll have the part cooling fans in parallel now.
+ Do the same for the Hotend Cooling Fans!
* connect each `+`-line to a Normally Closed switch, which is installed on the hotend in a way so it triggers and opens the line if the hotend is in the resting (homing) position.
* As the line connects when the hotend moves into the build volume, the part cooling fan on the currently active hotend starts to spin while the one of the non-active hotend is isolated.
## Variant B: MOSFETs and Safety
An alternate source for the part cooling fan signals might be the SERVOS1/SERVOS2 group, where `D4` to `D6` and `D11` are accessible. This leaves the FAN and top-left 12 V pinnings free for the hotend cooling. The downside is, that these pins don't likely provide 12 V but at best a 5 V digital output. However, a 0 to 5 V signal can be used to control a separate MOSFET which outputs 0 to 12 V, which then can power the part cooling fans. Due to the power draw of the Fans, a simple step-up converter is not a solution it needs a separate power supply.
The Main benefit is, that this does draw less power from the board than Variant A and does not re-pin `D9`. The "Cooling Fan Board" could use a 6-line ribbon cable to connect to the `SERVOS1` pins, using the 5V as reference for the MOSFETs, `D4`/`D5` as the trigger signal and GND as return lines.
A pre-assembled board that could serve in this position would be a L298N Driver. Due to how it is set up, one could run both part cooling fans, if their speed is set up to be always equal.
> 4 votes
# Answer
You can use the `M42` g-code to manually set any supported digital pin, which can then be used to either enable one of the on-board MOSFETs (D7, D8, D9, D10) or an external MOSFET. For example, `M42 P9 S255` would enable the parts cooling fan at 100 %.
You should never run any fan or heater directly off of a microcontroller pin (the ATmega2560 on your board supports up to **40 mA**. Standard 5 V fans I found online tend to draw **100 mA** or more).
Your board supports up to four switchable "power" outputs - bed, heater 0, heater 1 and FAN. Depending on what you use so far, one of those may be usable for your fans.
Note that on-board MOSFETs usually switch the ground side of the connected device. This means that you for your 12 V fan, you can connect it directly to one of those connectors. The 5 V would have to receive +5 V from elsewhere (like the +5 V pins near the bottom right mounting hole), but you can still control the fan by connecting its ground lead over one of the on-board MOSFETs.
If four MOSFETs are not enough for you, the L298N module provides an easy way to control four additional fans, while using normal digital pins to control the L298N.
> 2 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3
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thread-10524 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10524 | What exactly is the relationship between Flow/Feed Rate and (Print) Speed? | 2019-07-08T14:34:07.763 | # Question
Title: What exactly is the relationship between Flow/Feed Rate and (Print) Speed?
Newbie alert...
On my Ender-5, when I go into the "Tune" menu during a print and adjust the "Speed" value, that value will later be shown in the display next to a label saying "FR". I can also adjust that value by simply turning the knob during printing (and thus started to think of it as the "speed dial" ;) ).
As far as I was able to tell so far, the "FR" percentage value is being applied to all four stepper motor movements and thus allows me to slow down or speed up printing on-the-fly, e.g. to make up for sub-optimal speed settings chosen during slicing (after all, I'm still learning).
I only recently learned that FR is actually short for "Flow Rate" (or is it "Feed Rate"?) and that seems to imply that this is probably about more than just motor speed... Also, there seems to be no equivalent to the Speed setting in Octoprint: All I have on the Control tab are two distinct sliders for "Feedrate" and "Flowrate". Would I always have to move both to achieve the same effect?
Can anyone clarify? What implications of changing FR/Speed might I be missing?
# Answer
> 8 votes
By turning the knob in the main screen, you're adjusting "feed rate". This is essentially a factor that all g-code speed settings are multiplied with - "speed dial" seems an appropriate name for it.
"Flow rate" is something different altogether - this is multiplied with the extrusion commands. It has the same effect as changing your extruders steps-per-mm. You can adjust under- / overextrusion with this on the fly.
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Tags: octoprint, speed
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thread-10516 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10516 | A single angle, single phone model windshield mount -- a job for a 3D printer? | 2019-07-07T19:48:06.660 | # Question
Title: A single angle, single phone model windshield mount -- a job for a 3D printer?
My end goal is getting high quality dash footage from a 6 month road trip I'm going on. From my research, very few dash cams support 4k 30fps filming, and the ones that do overwrite their own footage really quick, so instead of that I'd like to use my iPhone. I have a wide angle lens for it, and I figure I can mount it to my windshield, behind the rear-view mirror.
But here's the problem: **there are no windshield phone mounts that allow for the angle I need.** They're all designed to point the phone screen at the driver, and the little ball joints that let you set the angle just don't work to point the camera straight ahead. I've tried like 5 different ones, and they all have this problem.
What I need is a solid thing that sticks to my windshield and holds my phone in the correct direction. Once stuck, it never needs to be adjusted. I think I could use 3M strips to stick something to the glass, so the only remaining part of the mystery is this: **A piece of plastic the exact right shape to hold my phone and point it at a specific angle.**
My question is: **Is this a good use case for 3D printing?** And if so, how would a complete amateur get started on this?
A few more requirements that I'm not sure if 3D printing can meet:
* It would need to withstand heat, as it would be left in the car on hot days in the south.
* It can't be too brittle, as speed bumps and dirt roads will knock it around a fair bit, and it has to support a large phone with an added lens.
# Answer
> 3 votes
You'd need to print in a heat resistant material \- ASA for example - and design the part for your needs, but this project is certainly feasible and doable with 3D printing. If that isn't enough for you, you could drill a hole to the internal cavity (it's best to have an infill pattern that does not split the internal cavity into several ones. Gyroid is one of these) and fill it with resin to make it even more sturdy.
With the right design, you could also go for SLA/DLP aks resin printing, but I am not well versed in the properties of printed resins but that they have some of the best inter-layer bonds.
If you don't want to get a 3D printer yourself, order the part printed, which usually comes cheaper than an entry-level printer with better quality for a one-off project as you won't have to learn the ins and outs of your printer and how to ensure the quality in the material you choose. Some print services also provide really exotic materials.
# Answer
> 0 votes
This certainly is a problem you could use a 3D printer to solve, but it requires getting good results with printing in materials that aren't the easiest to work with. It might be easier to go with one of the mounts you already have, and just adapting it for a different range of angles by mounting a wedge-shaped piece between it and the windshield. This could be done with 3D printing (note the materials requirements still), or if you have access to tools for cutting, drilling holes, etc., by just starting with a chunk of material, cutting it to the right shape, and adding some holes to mount suction cups and attach the existing phone mount.
# Answer
> -1 votes
Why not try a GoPro camera? They now have 4K, image stabilized camera with all kinds of accessory mounts.
https://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero7-silver/CHDHC-601-master.html
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Tags: print-quality, 3d-design
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thread-8172 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8172 | How do I decide what size my push-fit feature should be? | 2019-02-05T18:18:00.183 | # Question
Title: How do I decide what size my push-fit feature should be?
I'm designing a box and lid that will be FDM-printed. The lid push-fits onto the box. What kinds of gaps/tolerances should I use when designing pieces that fit together? has advice for designing the clearance between the lid and the box. Assume I've already settled that question and I have a good clearance so my lid slides on and off freely.
Now I'd like to add a lip-and-groove feature to my design to hold it shut, with a lip on the lid that clips into a groove in the box when the lid is fully closed - like a cantilever fit, but easy to open, and directly on the mating walls.
How deep should I make the lip and how tall? Does it depend on what plastic I'm printing in? Does it depend on the wall thickness and the geometric rigidity of the part?
# Answer
> 2 votes
A push-fit, or rather snap fit, feature can come in several shapes and forms. Let's look at the example of a snap buckle, inspired by Angus video on the tpic:
This Buckle has a harsh hook, it offers no way to push it in after finding its resting place, it is pretty much a "no release, no safety release" type. But with slight alterations it can become a safety buckle just by altering the 90° angle in the middle and providing a slope while offering a place to press the buckle in at the catch offers user release. Now, what does that have to do with dimensioning?
## Dimensioning a piece
When deciding about the dimensions of a feature we need to evaluate several factors against each other:
* Intended use
* Printability and print orientation
* Material choice
Let's discuss the three separately.
### Intended Use
The shape is dictated by the function of our part. Do we need a one-time snap fit that keeps the internals of our box closed forever? Do we need to open the buckle whenever we take off a backpack? Do we need a safety release to prevent the backpack from strangling the user if it catches somewhere? As we design the part for the use, and its intended loads, we also design minimum sizes for some features: a user-release buckle or snap fit needs to be large enough to be manipulated by a human (with the right tool), and the dimensions have to be large enough so the part can bear the intended loads.
### Material Choice
Different plastics behave differently under stress. ABS is known to be somewhat flexible in comparison to PLA, bending before breaking *softly* while PLA shatters once its maximum load is broken. The choice of the material also dictates the wall thicknesses, and thus the dimensions, we can use.
As an example, I have printed one of these Z-Axis tension triangles in PLA for my TronXY-X1. Due to how this part is designed, the bent arm can bend a little but wants to return to its original shape, thus forcing the straight arms apart. By this, it applies force on the wheels which in turn roll tight on the beam in between. Even as this is PLA, the work on the part is still in the elastic deformation area due to the sheer size of the item - the lever is quite long to take the little flex PLA has and distribute it over the whole length of the arms.
### Print considerations
Now, we have to keep in mind we print our parts layer by layer and the weakest part of a print is the inter-layer bonding. So the strongest snap-fit will have its bending lever printed in the XY plane while the weakest has its lever bend in a way that the bending occurs along with the XY slices.
However, we can use this to our advantage if we want to: I had printed this for StarWarsDay this year, and the little `det_button.stl` is printed with the levers of the snap-fits bending in the XY layer. They are also extremely fragile (1-2 walls). From own experience, they survive being pushed into their respective hole but can't be extracted without destroying the levers, making this piece pretty much act like a tamper seal.
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Tags: 3d-design
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thread-10483 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10483 | Extruder problem | 2019-07-04T11:55:14.033 | # Question
Title: Extruder problem
When I am trying to print something on my home made 3D printer, I can print the first and second layer, then the Bowden extruder's gear starts slipping; it cannot push the filament anymore,the gear is turning but slipping; the filament cannot go forward.
I tried all configurations of the tightening screw of the spring, corrected PID settings, cleaned the nozzle, tried with 200 °C up to 215 °C (I am using PLA) but no result.
I am wondering whether this is related to speed, feedrate and acceleration settings. The Slic3r puts automatically a feedrate as F1800, is this too high ? Do I have to change it every time I slice something? I might proceed with trial and error method but I need a more rational method.
Any suggestions?
---
The slicer I use (Slic3r) puts F1800 as speed. Is this too high ? Could this be a reason for the filament to slip ?
My filament's diameter is 1.75 mm. In the G-code file created by my slicer (Slic3r), the flows are shown as follows:
```
; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.44mm (4.25mm^3/s)
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.42mm (8.02mm^3/s)
; infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (10.69mm^3/s)
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (2.67mm^3/s)
; top infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (2.00mm^3/s)
; support material extrusion width = 0.44mm (8.50mm^3/s)
```
# Answer
The PLA isn't advancing as fast as the gcode requires. Since you've already tried higher temperatures, try printing at half the speed (F value). If that works, try 3/4 of the original F value, etc., until you find the best feed rate at this temperature for your material, printer, and model.
> 4 votes
# Answer
**Feeding Too Fast?**
The feed rate required of the extruder is related to the volume per second divided by the cross-sectional area of the filament. The Fxxxx number is not the filament feed rate directly, but is the linear motion rate for the nozzle.
The F1800 corresponds to a motion of 1800mm/min, of 30mm/sec. This is reasonable but could be made slower by changing the slic3r settings.
**Units Set to mm?**
Check that the g-code is specifying millimeters (mm) as the basic unit. There should be a G21 in the g-code to do set units to mm. If not present, add it to the "Custom G-code" section in the "printer parameters" for the start of a job.
**Retraction Heating the Heat Break?**
To eliminate the possibility of retraction bringing the heat up into the heat-break, try turning off all retraction. The print will be stringy, but this is trying to solve the problem, not yet to optimize the print.
**Jam in the Heat Break or Cold End?**
When the filament stops extruding, is it jammed tightly into extruder assembly?
With the extruder hot, is it difficult to pull out the filament?
If so, you may have heat creeping into the heat break, which should be cooled by the cold end and possibly a heat sink. Do you have air flowing over the cold-end and the heat-break? If you are getting heat-break or cold-end jams, the cooling is not adequate.
**Heater Problem?**
Is the heater heating well enough?
Is heat being transferred into the filament?
How big is your test object for which the first two layers print well? If the object is small, plastic that is already molten in the nozzle may be sufficient for the first two layers.
If you are using something like Repetier Host to control the printer over USB, you can see a graph of thermister temperature, which should not drop more than a few degrees when printing starts. If the temperature is dropping more than 5°C, there may be a heating problem.
If there is a heating problem, it could be anywhere in the energy chain, from the power supply, wiring, FET switch, PID settings, bad heater cartridge, and high thermal resistance between heater cartridge and the hot end.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I had such effects and fixed it by reducing the flow. It might be that your filament is thicker than it should be. Therefore too much filament ends up in the nozzle. Once the molten filament accumulates enough to rise to the cold end of the hot end it solidifies and nothing moves anymore -\> clicking.
So either try to go with the Flow from 100% down to 96% or change the Filament width setting of the slicer. Both will have the same result of g-Codes that push less plastic. If you see under extrusion then you overdid it.
> 1 votes
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Tags: extruder, diy-3d-printer, troubleshooting
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thread-10540 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10540 | Printing non-commercial model to make money | 2019-07-10T07:36:56.617 | # Question
Title: Printing non-commercial model to make money
If a customer sends me a non-commercial 3D model to print, am I allowed to charge money for the 3D printing process? I understand I cannot charge anything for the model nor offer it as a part of my business.
I cannot download the model myself, print and sell it, but if the customer downloads it and sends it to me for me to print it, is it a violation of the license or not?
# Answer
> 4 votes
I agree that intellectual property is complex. I am not a lawyer, but have been in the middle of patent and copyright actions.
In my non-legal opinion, you are providing a printing service for which you are free to charge your customer whatever you agree on. You are not responsible for the disposition of the resulting objects. You do not know how your customer intends to use them. They may be using them for commercial or non-commercial activities. They may have a license to use them in a way that is unknown to you, and, again IMO, they have no obligation to disclose their relationship with the IP holder. That license could be part of their trade advantage.
If the customer asks you to work with the design to make changes, and the license prohibits derivative works, I would be careful.
Never-the-less, the smell test always applies. If it seems to be illegal, unethical, or immoral, you might choose to forgo the customer and avoid any possibility of being tainted by their activities, if it should turn out that they are behaving badly.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Intellectual property law is complex, so you might want to consider getting proper legal advice. However, to respect the original designer's intent you need to look at what their license permits and try not to find a loophole in the process. There is nothing to stop you asking the designer (in public or private) to clarify their intent.
The biggest 'non-commercial' restriction reason is to protect the design idea, and stop someone mass-producing a clever design for profit. This applies irrespective of the original designer's intent to monetise their work.
Another big reason might be to 'hold back' the time invested in the design. Maybe the designer wants to share something they spent a lot of time on, for individuals to appreciate rather than profit from. The designer would presumably gain reputation as a result of wider knowledge of their work.
Sometimes, a design inherits licensing restrictions from a 3rd party (even maybe from the design tools used). For example, Fusion360 can be used for free by small companies, students, or for hobbies and personal learning, but has restrictions on **commercial, professional or for-profit** use. In that case, you would need to ask clarification from the tool provider.
The case you describe is complicated. You can't sell the printed part, but a 3rd party *can* probably contract you to print the part (or rent time/access to a printer). However, your contract rate can't include any element of value derived from the model. Assuming there is no explicit license condition, you should be OK if you charge for your direct costs. As soon as you include time, profit, or any modification to the model, you are on less solid ground.
To consider a non-obvious use-case of the Fusion 360 license, a student may well not have their own printer (particularly for an exotic material, or living in university accommodation). Can they contract a fabrication company to commercially produce or evaluate their model for the purposes of education or not?
I don't expect you will find a definitive answer to this question since there are too many variables. Creative Commons have a page about their Non Commercial license which identifies some things to consider when you interpret a license.
As noted in the comments, you can divide your time and professional contribution (and thus billable items) into several steps. By providing a model, the customer skips step 1:
* making the digital model
* preproduction (slicing)
* printing
* postproduction (cleaning off support)
A clear license would refer to all of these.
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Tags: 3d-models, legal
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thread-10505 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10505 | Rough surface when printing | 2019-07-06T15:04:18.773 | # Question
Title: Rough surface when printing
Is there a specific name for that problem? What causes this, and is there a way how to solve it?
Printed with PLA, 2 mm nozzle diameter, 0.2 mm layer height, 20-60 mm/s, 200 °C extruder, 60 °C bed.
# Answer
> 5 votes
I have experienced this problem. This picture is one that I could have taken.
It has always been because I was putting too much plastic into the available space.
This has been caused two things: overextrusion -- squirting out too much plastic for the intended layer height, and the bed being too "high" so that the gap between the nozzle and the bed is too thin.
In both cases, too much plastic is trying to be placed in too small a volume. The plastic has to go somewhere, and ripples follow. Because the nozzle rubs against the adjacent lines which have already been deposited, an up-bump pushes up the nozzle on the line beside the bump, and a coherent pattern of ripples can form.
The "bump up" is a real effect from the elasticity of the Z-axis, including all the resulting strains of twisting and lifting the nozzle.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This could be a number of things, I personally think it could be either over extrusion or an issue with one of the belts. Depending on the printer, you may need to manually go in and adjust your steps per millimeter, which you should be able to find a guide on. If that doesn't work, then look into belt tension adjustment. Hope this is able to help! I like to use the Simplify3D Print Quality Guide for situations like this, it tends to be very useful.
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Tags: surface
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thread-10222 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10222 | Does cheap "plasticy" blue painter tape actually melt when printed upon? | 2019-06-10T21:07:09.947 | # Question
Title: Does cheap "plasticy" blue painter tape actually melt when printed upon?
Leading on from Darth Pixel's photographically informative answer to Why does the painters tape have to be blue?, which showed *close up* the plastic fibers of cheaper versions of painters tape... as Darth Pixel himself questions:
> is such tape melted in any way in contact with extruded filament?
In other words, does such cheap, low quality, tape use fibres made from a plastic which has a melting point *lower* than that of PLA or ABS? If so, does this cause the tape to stick to the 3D print?
Obviously the higher quality (manila/paper) based tapes would not suffer from this potential melting issue.
Does anyone have real-world experience of this? Any photos showing melting would be great.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It really depends on the tape. In my case, I've used various types of blue painters tape in bed adhesion situations and have only had one occasion where it sticks to the part. (All experience is with PLA) Best advice I can give is give it a shot, and be sure to wait for the part to cool before removing it from the bed for the best chance at not having tape stuck to the part.
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Tags: masking-tape
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thread-10529 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10529 | Printing with PETG, printer says it's out of filament when it clearly is not | 2019-07-08T21:32:38.357 | # Question
Title: Printing with PETG, printer says it's out of filament when it clearly is not
## Background:
I have an Alfawise U20 (CR10 clone) and am still somewhat of a noob, though I've been learning as much as quickly as time will allow.
The Alfawise U20 has "out-of-filament" detection, though I'm not 100 % certain how it works. I think that there's a roller across from the toothed knob that drives the filament into the Bowden tube, and if the roller doesn't roll, that means the filament has run out(?).
I've become fairly proficient printing with PLA but this is the first time I've tried printing with PETG.
## Problem:
Almost immediately after starting a print, the printer pauses the print and displays message "Out of filament. Would you like to change filament?" There's not even time for the toothed knob to click, which I've seen when trying to print PLA too fast/too cold.
If I manually extrude some filament, it seems to work fine. When I resume the print, it will print for anywhere between ~2 seconds & ~5 minutes before pausing again, prompting me to change filament.
I'm printing at 240 °C. I've seen opinions vary pretty far & wide wrt how hot to print PETG, with some people saying you can print successfully as cold as 215 °C, and others saying you should crank it up to 250+ °C. This filament is rated for 230-250 °C extrusion.
Again, manually extruding filament works fine. No slippage, no clicking. Smooth extrusion.
I've read that PETG is extremely hygroscopic. Could my problem be caused by the filament having absorbed too much water? How would I even determine if this was the cause?
What else could be causing my problem? I've read some printers' "out of filament" detection have problems with translucent filaments?
# Answer
Shoutout to @0scar for posting a photo of the filament sensor, that was super helpful. Also thanks to everyone else who pointed me to the filament sensor and resources around that.
I also tracked down this review which had great information around my printer's filament sensor as well. It turns out that the hole that goes to the sensor is way too big and there's a lot of play with the filament. As I jiggled the filament up & down I could hear the sensor clicking on & off, clearly indicating that if the angle of entry of the filament was too low, the sensor would not be depressed and this would continue to be a problem.
So for my next print, I did what that reviewer suggested and simply unscrewed the sensor & taped it so it would not stop my print. My print was unsuccessful for other reasons (under-extrusion/failed to adhere to the build plate ), but at least I think I've figured out what's going on with my filament sensor. Thanks again everyone!
> 2 votes
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Tags: extruder, extrusion, petg
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thread-10552 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10552 | 3D print appears to print very weak walls in long print | 2019-07-11T11:02:15.243 | # Question
Title: 3D print appears to print very weak walls in long print
So after a long print the walls in the print begin to weaken and it appears they might not be printed at all. In the upside down picture you can see the weakness where the two pieces are separated. I'm wondering if perhaps reducing my speed and changing the extrusion size from .35 to .45 which is larger than the extruder itself. Thanks for any help and suggestions!
# Answer
> 3 votes
What you refer to as weak walls in fact are under-extruded walls. This can be caused by multiple sources, but, since the print recovers this most probably is caused by filament that is entangled on the spool (this causes more friction for the extruder and as such less flow, so under-extrusion; like as if the filament is being pulled back). Any other source that may induce extra friction is equally valid. E.g. kink in filament when using a Bowden configuration (long time extra friction in tube) or friction on the spool itself (I once had severe under-extrusion as the spindle of the spool caught a plastic bag which got wrapped around).
# Answer
> 1 votes
A filament tangle is one possibility, one alternative is that you are seeing a jam in the extruder. The trigger for a jam might be excessive retraction, heat soak or some other issue with the heat-break. Less likely, you might have an electrical problem which is position dependant.
The extrusion-related issues won't necessarily react in an 'obvious' way to any tweaks you make to the parameters (for example, slower might exacerbate heat-soak because the downward filament flow and thus cooling effect is lower).
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Tags: underextrusion
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thread-10565 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10565 | Using maximum width when slicing in Ultimaker Cura | 2019-07-12T22:32:49.220 | # Question
Title: Using maximum width when slicing in Ultimaker Cura
I am trying to slice a model that is half a mm less than max width, but not successful.
What am I missing? Is there some minimum value less than maximum allowed, or something?
**Edit**: after changing the width to 220 in machine settings, slicing works. This is a dangerous thing to do, as it *could* damage the printer.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Take a look at this post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15588-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area/. As the raft/skirt/brim will fall outside of the build volume, Cura is not able to slice it. Look at the the answer by @ahouben. He suggests that if you want to use the maximum build volume :
> * adhesion type = brim
> * brim line count = 0
> * travel avoid distance = 0
> * horizontal expansion = 0
> * support horizontal expansion = 0 (if support is enabled)
> * draft shield disabled
> * ooze shield disabled
> * infill wipe distance = 0
>
> Note that in most cases brim with brim line count=0 will get you most of the way there
Try this and see if it makes a difference.
# Answer
> 3 votes
This answer already addresses that Ultimaker Cura "eats up" platform space for e.g. skirt, brim, raft, dual extruder, deposition of priming blob, prime towers, etc. Disabling those features will reclaim platform space so you can print larger prints. ***However, that will only work when your printer is correctly configured!*** E.g. the center of the bed needs to be the center of the center in the slicer which needs to have the specific sizes of the bed dimensions. Note that increasing the bed size past the actual dimensions is not considered to be a nice solution, it is an easy work-around that gives you extra space in X<sup>+</sup> and Y<sup>+</sup>, i.e. it does not center this newly created space, furthermore, this can destroy your printer is there is tight space left on those axes! Let's illustrate that with an example, if you have a 200x200 mm build plate and want to slice something of size 200x200 mm, this should be centered around (100, 100), if you change the bed size to 220x220 mm, Ultimaker Cura will center the print around (110, 110) which means that the print maximum coordinates are 210 mm; this is outside the bed area and potentially can destroy your printer!
What you should check is if the physical center of your bed actually is the center as defined by the firmware of the printer (surprisingly, many of the cheaper printer have this incorrectly configured). The answers on question *"How to center my prints on the build platform?"* (Re-calibrate homing offset) describe how you could do that.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing
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thread-10571 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10571 | How to activate Power Loss Recovery in Marlin? | 2019-07-13T14:26:33.847 | # Question
Title: How to activate Power Loss Recovery in Marlin?
Standard Marlin has one problem: when the power suddenly is gone, the print is gone. Prusa and many china printers however come with "Power Loss Recovery" or "Power Out Protection" or similar. But especially China printers come without Thermal Runaway Protection, so in order to make the printer safe, one often has to get rid of TRP (in the basic shape it comes).
**How can the PLR be turned on?**
# Answer
Marlin firmware has such a feature that can be enabled to resume printing after a power outage.
To enable power-loss recovery you should send
```
M413 S1
```
to the printer using a console (e.g. using Pronterface, OctoPrint, Repetier-host, etc.) or put commands in a text file with extension `.g` that can be printed from SD card. To disable power-loss recovery send/print:
```
M413 S0
```
To report the state of the power-loss recovery, send through a console:
```
M413
```
This will result in a returning message in the console of e.g. `This Power-loss recovery ON`.
To retain the setting, you can use `M500` to store it in memory.
---
If you enable `M413` in Marlin firmware, the printer will write a resume printing file to SD card e.g. every layer.
From M413 - Power-loss Recovery documentation I quote:
> Enable or disable the Power-loss Recovery feature. When this feature is enabled, the state of the current print job (SD card only) will be saved to a file on the SD card. If the machine crashes or a power outage occurs, the firmware will present an option to Resume the interrupted print job. In Marlin 2.0 the `POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY` option must be enabled.
>
> This feature operates without a power-loss detection circuit by writing to the recovery file periodically (e.g., once per layer), or if a `POWER_LOSS_PIN` is configured then it will write the recovery info only when a power-loss is detected. The latter option is preferred, since constant writing to the SD card can shorten its life, and the print will be resumed where it was interrupted rather than repeating the last layer. (Future implementations may allow use of the EEPROM or the on-board SD card.)
This means if you cut the power you can resume the print layer, the only problem is that the part must remain attached to the plate, if it comes loose it is hard to resume printing. This feature is now commonly found on printers these days.
The regular pause and resume functionality of the printer will not work when the power is cut over night, i.e. no recovery file is written in such a case.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, knowledgebase
--- |
thread-10575 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10575 | Retraction Jamming Problem! | 2019-07-13T16:53:17.173 | # Question
Title: Retraction Jamming Problem!
Recently I had this problem where I needed to change filament from PLA to PET-G or similar. And... filament jam. After playing around with different settings and speeds and still getting the same results I had to clean everything. And again during a print, it jammed.
I brought a new nozzle, heating cartage, Teflon (PTFE) tube and some additional components(fans, new wires and so on) but still was the same. Now I'm waiting for a new set of hotend Mk8<sup>Design Needed</sup> kit.
A week after the order and still waiting, I played with retraction a little. By default, it was set to 0.8 mm on Sli3er but I had set it to 4-6 mm because it gives the best results and no stringing. I changed it again to 1.5-2 mm and... no more jamming at the cost of getting stringing. I'm using PLA which I never had experienced strings before.
So, in summary, the problem occurs due my retraction setting. Either I have to live with strings and no jam problems or no strings but jamming problems during printing.
Have someone had same problem as me? How did you fixed it?
* Printer AlfaWise U30(bowden type) but it's no longer the same.
* Motherboard: MKS 1.4 Gen A4988 + DRV8825 Stepper drivers(no problems here)
* PID(Autotune), Calibrations and so on done correctly.
* Firmware latest marlin 1.1.9 (Tried bugfix but the same)
* Sofware for slicing PE Sli3er (Tried Ultimaker Cura with same model and same problem)
# Answer
I had problems with jamming PETG due to retraction. My model had many retraction moves, such that the amount of filament used during a printing move was less than the retraction distance. I found that several trips through the feed gear flattened the filament, which caused two problems.
1. The flattened (or ovaled) filament had trouble fitting through the round holes and tubes, and
2. Since it was thinner, the filament was not gripped as tightly so there was less force pushing it.
I reduced my feed gear pressure and the problem stopped.
PETG is not as stiff as PLA. The multiple trips through mangle flattened it.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: pla, diy-3d-printer, extrusion, petg
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thread-10580 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10580 | Using a Full Spool of Filament, Read as "Empty" | 2019-07-13T22:50:54.620 | # Question
Title: Using a Full Spool of Filament, Read as "Empty"
I have a cheaper consumer-grade printer that I've owned for a couple of years now. It is an XYZ da Vinci Mini W and it seems to recuperate its incurred losses from selling a cheaper printer by jacking up the prices on their filaments. I don't have much of a problem with this (and I'm not asking to "hack" the chips to let me use cheaper filaments), but I went to switch out my filament with a full one I had laying around and I noticed the chip case it contained was a chip (probably removed by somebody for some odd reason). I used a chip that I had laying around, but the printer read the full spool of filament as "empty" because of the old chip. Because of this, I was wondering if there was a way to force the printer to keep printing when the spool is "empty" or if I can somehow reset the chip.
# Answer
From what is read online, it depends on the firmware version your printer has. It seems that later versions keep track of tag serials and reports tampered tags as non-genuine tags. The best and most recent reference found is from 2018 which describes you should be creating new tags instead of resetting existing tags. This involves installing an Android App from unverified source and new "paper" NFC213 tags.
> 2 votes
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Tags: filament, xyz-da-vinci-mini-w
--- |
thread-10573 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573 | What is a printer console/terminal? | 2019-07-13T14:49:41.060 | # Question
Title: What is a printer console/terminal?
I read that G-code commands can be sent through a console/terminal over USB. What is a console/terminal and how do you use that?
# Answer
There are several programs that could serve as a console to connect to a printer, put let's start somewhere: the USB connection.
# Step 1: Connection with USB
When connecting the printer via USB for the first time, we will get a notification that some unknown item is connected. If we use windows we can learn what device it decided we now have via the `device manager` (`Windows Key` then typing in `manager` and `Enter`). It should be a COM Port as this picture shows.
In this case, we have connected to **`COM4`**. To change the COM port, we can do so via a `Rightclick`-\>`properties`, then the `connection settings` and `advanced`. In the new window, we can change the COM port number to anything from 1 to 256, but it is recommended to keep the number somewhat low.
Make sure you run the printer's power supply **and** the connection via USB, as you can't use motor control commands if you have the power supply for the printer off.
# Step 2: Using the COM-port
Now, we need a program that can use the COM port to connect to the printer. There are, as said, several out there. One such is **Repetier Host**, which comes with slicer and a good graphical interface. Another is **Ultimaker Cura**, which has the same capacities but lacks logging of all the commands exchanged. Because many are familiar with it as a slicer, I will look at it first. As a third option, I will take a look at **Pronterface**.
CAVEAT: Only **one** program that actively uses the COM port can be properly run at the same time, as the first program accessing the port will claim all uses for the COM port till it is shut down - any program or even other instances of the same program trying to access the port after that will have no control of the port.
## Ultimaker Cura
After launching Ultimaker Cura, choose your printer. many printers are available as presets by now, so just import the printer you use or make a custom profile. At the moment the latest version of Cura is 4.1.0, and will look like this:
After switching to `Monitor`, it will automatically connect to the Printer via the COM port, in my case 4.
Once more we test the connection via Home and then use the Send G-Code prompt, confirming lines via `Enter`.
## Repetier Host
After running Repetier Host the first time, you need to configure your printer. `Ctrl`+`P` opens the config window for the printer. We need to know the Baud Rate of our printer, so I looked up the documentation of my Ender3, which told me 115200 is the right setting. Most printers seem to run on this setting. The other tabs decide the speeds, extruder number and limits and the bed shape. The rest isn't needed for this. My settings for the Ender3 are these:
Ok, we made our settings and saved via `OK`.
Now, we press the Connect button on the left side of the menu:
It should change to the blue Disconnect button and display other parts of the print now, showing that we have connected. Note that at the bottom of the screen a log is filled with all the commands and exchanges.
On the right side, we now can choose the Tab `Manual Control`
Before sending any commands, it is a good idea to press the Home button. This also serves as an extra test to see if the printer is connected correctly. Now we can use the Prompt G-Code to send our commands. The commands will be put into the log below.
## Pronterface
This is the first time that I used Pronterface. The first thing to do after downloading the Printrun package and running the Pronterface application is to press `Port`, then set the right Baudrate (115200 seems to work for many machines) and press `connect`.
The GUI will saturate and the right log will show lots of things tested in connection. Note that in the lower right of the GUI, there is a temperature curve log, which can be very handy for troubleshooting, as it shows the change over a little time.
Below the log, we find the input for commands, and if we send a command, we get a log entry of it:
> 13 votes
# Answer
In addition to this answer, the OctoPrint 3D print server software contains a terminal which you can use to send G-code commands from a browser:
## OctoPrint
In the bottom string input box (under the check mark items) you put in a G-code command, which will be send to the printer when you hit the *Send* button. If the printer gives a reply to that command, it will be displayed in the log window above the check mark interface items.
> 5 votes
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Tags: g-code, software, knowledgebase, usb
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thread-10546 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10546 | PET-G under-extrusion after changing the nozzle to a 1.2 mm d. one (Prusa i3 mk3s and PrusaSlicer v2.0) | 2019-07-10T21:25:07.453 | # Question
Title: PET-G under-extrusion after changing the nozzle to a 1.2 mm d. one (Prusa i3 mk3s and PrusaSlicer v2.0)
PET-G is the main filament I use. I can achieve high quality of my prints with my Prusa i3 mk3s printer. Recently however, I've recently changed my nozzle from the default 0.4mm to the 1.2mm. I watched the online video tutorial on how to do it properly and did the whole process carefully.
Temperature: 250 °C/100 °C Speed: max 200 %, but results are the same even all the higher ones . Layer height: 0.35 mm
With my first print (and the next ones too) on the new nozzle I noticed lots of under-extrusion with infill (holes). LOTS of stringing although I've increased retraction. What's the reason ?
# Answer
Piecing this answer together from the comments on OP's post. Myself and R.. noted that a layer height of 0.35 mm, nozzle width of 1.2 mm, and a fairly high feedrate (200 % according to OP, no reference to what 100 % is), is an exceptionally large amount of plastic to try and melt through almost any hotend on the market except possibly the Volcano, or the high-throughput version of the Mosquito.
OP responded that lowering the layer height to 0.2 mm seemed to fix the issue. That's still an impressive amount of plastic, but it's a 43 % decrease in total flow compared to 0.35 mm layer height.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, 3d-models, petg, underextrusion
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thread-10550 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10550 | Build plate adhesion, PLA | 2019-07-11T08:44:58.130 | # Question
Title: Build plate adhesion, PLA
Am just wondering if any conclusions can be drawn from this:
Three corners are solid, but not the one in the centre of the plate.
The bed was levelled before printing (and checked afterwards also). Even though the photo may *appear* to show a slant or lower corner (where the print is coming off), there is not. The bed is level, relative to the extruder, at room temperature.
The temperature of the bed is about 70 °C. I get inconsistent readings (with laser thermometer) but to the finger it feels about the same everywhere.
It's a glass bed, presumably with some coating. Is it degraded? Local temperature variation? Any ideas anyone?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I cleaned the bed with acetone and it seems to have helped, so presumably it was just a build-up of something.
# Answer
> 3 votes
From here: https://io3dprint.com/review-anycubic-i3-mega-ultrabase/
> Ultrabase Bed The Anycubic i3 Mega Ultrabase is the latest version in the Anycubic i3 family. As hinted in the name, the main upgrade from the previous version is the Ultrabase bed. This is a textured coating on the Borosilicate glass bed that means you don’t need to apply any glue or tape to the bed to make your prints stick to it.
>
> Ultrabase is similar to the popular BuildTak beds except unlike BuildTak it doesn’t wear off and the most significant benefit is that parts are exceptionally easy to remove once the bed has cooled.
>
> The Ultrabase surface has a Moh’s hardness of over 7. This means you can safely use metal scrapers and blades to clean it without risk of it scratching!
Perhaps it was just not cleaned sufficiently from a prior print.
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Tags: pla, adhesion, build-plate
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thread-10593 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10593 | Handing OpenSCAD module parameters derived from other variables | 2019-07-15T03:37:23.467 | # Question
Title: Handing OpenSCAD module parameters derived from other variables
I'm new to OpenSCAD, but I can only get default parameters working for simple values.
I'm wondering if there is any way to achieve the following, where I have some parameters available to the module caller but by default they are derived from other parameters.
I had expected this to work - I thought the compiler to be able to resolve these variables in-scope during compilation since everything here is deterministic - so perhaps I'm just missing some syntax? If not, is there some better way to achieve this?
```
module clasp(length=20,
pin_radius=5,
mouth = pin_radius * 0.9,
inner_radius = pin_radius + 0.25,
outer_radius = inner_radius * 1.4,
) {
... do the work ...
}
```
Unfortunately this approach leaves mount/inner/outer all `undef`.
# Answer
This seems to be a limitation of the language. One workaround that's only moderately ugly is, in the body of the module:
```
mouth = is_undef(mouth) ? pin_radius * 0.9 : mouth;
```
etc. If you'll only be using the file via a `use` directive in other files, another approach is file-scope variables. These can be overridden when the module is called, just like module parameters, and they do not provide or take values for/from the calling file's file-scope variable namespace.
> 2 votes
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Tags: openscad
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thread-10596 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10596 | What is this called? A tube flange bearing threaded for threaded pushrod | 2019-07-15T05:07:36.373 | # Question
Title: What is this called? A tube flange bearing threaded for threaded pushrod
How should I describe this part which looks like a threaded flange so that I can research replacements? It is the gold piece in the middle of each photo. It is used to create a bed raiser in the FLSUN Cube 3D printer.
It gets attached to a motor using a flexible bearing
# Answer
*This answer already describes the name of the "golden" component you are after, this answer expands upon that answer to note that there are various nuts with different thread sizes that look virtually the same, it would be a pity to order the incorrect one.*
---
Note that this trapezoidal lead screw nut is made from brass (e.i. in your image, but these nuts are also available in POM/Delrin) and needs to have exactly the same screw threads as your lead screw has. A much used lead screw is using the following designation `Tr8x8(p2)` ( for a full description of what that means look into this answer (Anet A8 lead screw threads)). Do note that there are many lead screw nut sizes, buying the wrong one will not fit the current lead screw.
From the image you supplied it looks as if that is the same lead screw as used in the linked answer of the Anet A8 lead screw. To verify this, you could measure how much the nut advances on a full rotation of the nut, if it is 8 mm, buy the `Tr8x8(p2)` if e.g. 4 mm, buy the `Tr8x4(p2)`. Note that if you are going to buy a new nut, you could opt for a nut that has no backlash, **BUT**, be sure that it would fit the acrylic hole and you have enough space as its height is larger, or be prepared to modify the acrylic part or reconstruct a new one (it wouldn't be a bad idea to do that anyways, acrylic is known for cracking under applying force such as screws and nuts). Note that an anti backlash nut must be used as depicted below.
> 4 votes
# Answer
To the best of my knowledge, it's just called a **lead screw nut** or **lead nut**. The flange and holes for attaching it to a surface are inherent in its role in letting the lead screw move something.
> 5 votes
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Tags: replacement-parts, part-identification
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thread-8171 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8171 | Prusa Mk3 printing rough surfaces | 2019-02-05T17:50:25.637 | # Question
Title: Prusa Mk3 printing rough surfaces
My Prusa Mk3 has been making this sort of rough surface on prints, and I'm not sure what caused this. I am printing with PLA Prusament with 0.2 mm layer height at the preset for PLA. What is this, and how can I fix it?
Edit: Changed absolutely nothing, tried again and problem solved!
# Answer
> 1 votes
The OP was not able to reproduce the problem as can be taken from an edit to his question:
> Changed absolutely nothing, tried again and problem solved!
*To honor the Q/A approach used on SE sites, this comment has been converted to a community answer, that once voted for will not make this question pop up once in a while.*
# Answer
> 0 votes
To me this looks like your nozzle is too hot. Try turning the temp down by 5 degrees at a time and see if the issue goes away.
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Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, troubleshooting
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thread-10601 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10601 | Is this re-Arm controller actually 24 V capable? | 2019-07-15T09:06:13.603 | # Question
Title: Is this re-Arm controller actually 24 V capable?
I would like to make a 24 V (3D printer board and shield) setup, as opposed to the usual 12 V, and to do so I had been considering using the Taurino Power board, or the clone Eruduino. However, I just found this board:
The specifications state a DC input of up to 36 V:
Does anyone know whether that *really* means it can handle 24 V in the same manner as the Taurino/Eruduino? If so, then that looks like a double win: not only 24 V support, but also a faster processor. Anyone have experience with this board?
I was thinking of using with a RAMPS1.6 Plus (maybe), or just a regular RAMPS 1.4 (hacked to support 24 V). I'm just shopping about, and I thought that if I was going to spend £14 on an Eruduino, then I just as well spend that money on something better.
It does work with Marlin apparently, as some of the customer reviews would suggest, but none of the reviews that I could find referred to a 24 V setup (heated bed etc.), hence my question.
# Answer
Given that the capacitor near the input is quite clearly marked 35 V, a 36 V rating seems questionable.
The (buck) regulator used on the (genuine version of the) board is the AOZ1282CI which supports up to 36 V input. This is probably where they got the 36 V rating from, but obviously the 35 V-rated capacitors drop the input voltage down below this.
Schematics for the board are available on the RepRap wiki and show that the input voltage only feeds into the regulator. I see no reason why this board couldn't handle 24 V input, as this is well within the rating of both the regulator and the capacitors.
> 4 votes
# Answer
For completion, I've just seen this, Can a ramps 1.6 support 24v? (which basically confirms the 24 V support of the Re-ARM board) although it isn't particularly useful w.r.t. the RAMPS 1.6 side of things, although I would imagine the the 24 V RAMPS hack would still apply.
In addition, Alex Kenis does a great review, and he has successfully tried it with 24 V, watch 32-bit series part 4: Re-ARM board "review?". Whilst the RE-ARm offers a lot of advantages, some of the main down points to be aware of are:
* No 5 V *analogue inputs*, they are 3.3 V, so the endstops use 3V3 logic (not a problem from mechanical switches, but 5 V optical endstops will have a problem
* Some of the pins of the Mega are missing from the Re-ARM.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: printer-building, power-supply
--- |
thread-10594 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10594 | Infill keeps "shoveling", but perimeters are fine | 2019-07-15T03:56:21.063 | # Question
Title: Infill keeps "shoveling", but perimeters are fine
While printing PET-G (@ 220 °C nozzle and over 58 °C bed temperature), the outlines always print fine but the infill keeps shoveling. Could I be printing too hot or too cold? I am using a 0.8 mm nozzle.
Shoveling is when the plastic is over extruding to the point at which it starts piling up in the path of the nozzle, usually resulting in an uneven surface. Visually, it manifests like a snow plow shoveling snow. I tried adding an image, but, the filament is black so that turned out to be a difficult task.
This reason why this is a problem is because the nozzle hits those peaks while printing, which seems to be causing the print to detach from the bed. I've also noticed the print curling up at the edges, but I think that's a separate problem.
I am printing at 3000 mm/min. The outline, and the infill is 80 % of that. The layer height is 0.6 mm
# Answer
Normally, what you're calling shoveling is caused by having the bed too high - when you deposit enough material for a space that should be the nominal layer height high, but significantly less volume is available, it has nowhere to go but up around the edges of the nozzle.
However, in your case your temperatures are also seriously wrong for PETG. The normal recommended range of nozzle temperature for PETG is 230-250 °C, and in my experience, you need the full 250 °C to have any hope of printing fast. At 220 °C I'm really surprised you're not having problems with underextrusion instead.
The bed temperature is likely even more important. Minimum bed temperature for PETG is 80 °C. If the material is hitting a 58 °C bed as it comes out, it's likely to cool way too fast. This may lead to what you call shoveling (especially if you see both pits and ridges rather than just ridges), but even if not, it's going to prevent the material from bonding to previously laid down lines, so that your print will end up more brittle than PLA.
One additional detail I initially missed involves your 0.8 mm nozzle. It might be hard for the hotend to keep up with properly melting that much PETG at normal print speeds. As noted in the comments, a 50 mm/s linear extrusion rate with an 0.8 mm nozzle is equivalent, in volumetric extrusion rate, to a 200 mm/s linear extrusion rate with a typical 0.4 mm nozzle, which would be extremely fast for PETG. It's unlikely that any hotend except a "volcano" or similar (with extended melt zone length) could keep up with raising that much material to 250 °C that quickly.
> 3 votes
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Tags: print-quality, infill
--- |
thread-10585 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10585 | Wiring Z-stop directly to hot end and aluminum bed / spacers | 2019-07-14T04:20:17.843 | # Question
Title: Wiring Z-stop directly to hot end and aluminum bed / spacers
So I am really fed up with inductive probes. The one I am using keeps getting shifted slightly every time I switch nozzles or run an oozy print. That means I have to autolevel again, then manually set a Z-offset (as I would have anyway if I didn't have an inductive probe).
On my Lulzbot Mini there is a different scenario. There are four washers at each part of the bed. The nozzle is "grounded" so that when the Mini touches the washers, a current is created that seems to act as the Z-stop. Surprisingly there isn't much out there for a DIY implementation of this.
Since I have an aluminum bed (and aluminum is conductive), I am thinking of doing the following:
1) Put one wire from the Z-stop ground pin to the aluminum bed. Make sure it is away from the wires for the heater / thermister (?)
2) Put one wire from the Z-stop 5V into the heating block of my nozzle.
When the nozzle probes the bed, a current will be created from the 5V heating block, through the conductive nozzle, into the conductive bed, to the Z-stop ground.
I'm always unsure when it comes to circuitry. Will there be any dangerous interference from this technique from, say, the bed heating circuit? I'm not sure what kind of protection circuitry are on each of the Arduino's pins, and I'd rather not fry my board if this sounds like a bad idea to someone.
I figure most people don't do this because they have sheets of PEI or some other non-conductive material on their bed. I can use PET tape but still leave holes in the tape for this autobed leveling probe. It would be really great if it worked and wasn't dangerous.
I shouldn't even need the third pin?
# Answer
Edit: i recommend using some conductive felt
The top of the aluminum bed is not conductive, but the sides of it are. You can re-create the Lulzbot Mini endstop set-up by connecting the Z-stop ground to the side of the aluminum bed, then using binder clips and nickels as the "washers". In my case I had to use quarters because my bed was really big and the extruder came down far from its edges.
To do this, you'll need:
1. A multimeter and a \>100 Ohm resistor for safety
2. Some nickels (or any conductive coin)
3. Some binder clips (with steel insides)
4. Some aluminum foil (increases reliability of setup)
5. A Z end-stop
**Building conductive washer perimeter**
Create a conductive washer system along the sides of your aluminum bed by:
1. Wrapping a nickel-sized amount of aluminum foil on the bottom, side, and top of the bed
2. Placing a nickel on top of that aluminum foil on the bedttop
3. Placing a steel-inside binder clip to hold down the nickel
Do this multiple times along the perimeter of the bed. It seems you are limited to an evenly-spaced grid structure by the software. In my case I placed the washers at:
```
X = 0, Y = 0
X = 0.5 * Max_X, Y=0
X = Max_X, Y = 0
X = 0, Y = Max_Y
X = 0.5*Max_X, Y = 0.5 * Max_Y
X = Max_X, Y = Max_X
```
The aluminum foil provides a contact between the side of the bed and the top and bottom of it. The binder clip can be pressed inwards against the aluminum foil to ensure high reliability. However, the binder clip can get loose. So, using aluminum foil helps make the bottom of the bed conductive too, increasing the surface area of the contact for the binder clip.
**Attaching red wire to hot end**
Attach the red part of the Z-endstop to your heatblock. It must be in the heatblock somewhere. The thermister hole might work. For me, I was able to slide it in a small space that's used to tighten the screw that holds the heat rod.
Now we want to attach the Z-stop ground (black wire) to the conductive perimeter.
**Before attaching Z-stop ground underneath one of the binder clips, a word of caution...**
The first time I did this, I stupidly placed a binder clip on top of the 12V heat rod attached to the bottom of the aluminum bed. This put all sides of the aluminum bed (and my conductive washers) at 12V, which created a short into the Z-stop ground pin when I connected it. This resulted in my Z-stop ground pin SMOKING up from the heat going through it. As a word of precaution, you should attach a resistor between the Z-stop ground pin and the side of the aluminum bed should something go wrong in the future. I used a 2.1 kOhm resistor I had laying around. This will limit the current going into the Z-stop ground pin. Since everyone's aluminum bed will be different (for e.g. the bottom of my bed is non-conductive, but yours might be conductive), it is really important to be careful here.
Before powering on, test to see that all of the nickels have low resistance between them. Test to see that the hot end nozzle is connected to the Z-stop red wire. Use a multimeter for this.
If you don't have a resistor, wait to attach the Z-stop ground before powering on. This will let you check the voltage to tell if your aluinum bed sides are connected to the 12V heat rod. After that, you can power off and attach the Z-stop ground and power on again.
**Setting up the software**
If you've flashed your firmware before, setting up the software is easy. Go to the "AUTO\_BED" section of Configuration.h. First thing to do is to set your Z-offset to about 2.0mm and remove any existing offsets you might've had for a Z-probe (for e.g. X\_PROBE\_OFFSET... = -40 was set for me). The Z-offset should be set to a positive value this time. **Don't forget to change this setting in EEPROM if you set itas well!**
Since I'm only probing the perimeter, I use BILINEAR bed leveling for this one. Bilinear calculates points automatically for me, so I had to set up my perimeter according to an evenly spaced grid like I listed in "Building conductive washer perimeter".
First I activated AUTO\_BED\_LEVELING\_BILINEAR
And my IF tree looks like:
```
#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)
// Set the number of grid points per dimension.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 2
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 1
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 264
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 1
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 264
// The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 0
// Probe along the Y axis, advancing X after each column
//#define PROBE_Y_FIRST
#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)
// Beyond the probed grid, continue the implied tilt?
// Default is to maintain the height of the nearest edge.
#define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID
//
// Experimental Subdivision of the grid by Catmull-Rom method.
// Synthesizes intermediate points to produce a more detailed mesh.
//
#define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION
#if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION)
// Number of subdivisions between probe points
#define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3
#endif
#endif
#elif // other bed leveling trees
```
Feel free to disable EXTRAPOLATE\_BEYOND\_GRID and BILINEAR\_SUBDIVISIONS because they might not be necessary for you.
**Time to autobed level**
Of course, even with all that work, you're still going to want to be able to power off your 3D printer if it doesn't recognize even one of the nickels. So stay close to your power source and be sure to power it off safely if it doesn't recognize one of your contacts or if something comes loose. For example one of my coins was very dirty and yea, it made a huge difference in that corner, so I had to swap it out.
**Last but not least**, if you have some extra binder clips, you can enable the "Nozzle cleaning" feature in Configuration.h, just by binder-clipping the dark-green layer of a sponge to the board. Then just set the X-Y coordinates of that layer in the nozzle\_clean feature in Configuration.h and make your life a lot easier. These two features working well together basically mean you don't have to do anything between multiple prints except remove the prints from the bed.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Aluminium is conductive, but aluminium oxide is not, which is just so what there (unavoidably, since aluminium rapidly oxidises in air) happens to be a thin layer of on top of your bed. The coating is very thin, but it might foul your plans. It would work better with a sharp probe (that can puncture the layer) than with a 3D printer nozzle. You should be careful, because your probing method might be unreliable (which could cause the nozzle to crash into the bed).
Wiring the endstop 5V directly to ground will create a short circuit which will damage your printer. You should use the third (signal) pin and ground instead.
> 3 votes
# Answer
This will not work reliably.
I know, I have tried it, for a couple of years, with poor consistency.
Now, I will tell you that it worked better than the parallax IR sensors. It worked better than trying to slam the head into the bed and listen for the click.
I used the brass nozzle and the aluminum bed as a switch to detect the bed position.
I used ABS slurry on the bed. With a 100°C bed the ABS was soft enough for the nozzle to make contact. Elmer's Glue for PLA also was soft enough.
But, with the elasticity I had in the synthetic Z-axis of the delta machine, the time delay to much the bed adhesive out of the way, and the general problem of trying to conduct electricity through an aluminum oxide layer, I had variability of about 0.1 mm, which was far to much to give a reliable first layer.
To "level" the delta bed, I would touch each point several times (with a clean bed) and fit my leveling function to the noisy data. For finding my zero reference at the beginning of a print, I would touch off three time and only use the third one. This helped, but it was still super noisy.
I have subsequently incorporated a strain gauge in the triangular delta-bit. It gives much more accurate contact information and is not effected by the bed glue not does the aluminum oxide layer cause problems.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: z-probe
--- |
thread-10614 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10614 | I can't install plugins on OctoPrint? | 2019-07-16T08:50:44.767 | # Question
Title: I can't install plugins on OctoPrint?
I have installed OctoPi on my Raspberry Pi 3B+, that is connected to an MKS GEN L v1.0 motherboard for my 3D printer (Ender 3 Pro). When I open my OctoPrint into a browser I can use it, but I wanted to install some plugins. First time I had an error that said my server was offline, after connecting my Raspberry to WiFi and setting up a static ip-address, I've connected my Raspberry to my main board, after that it said the status of OctoPrint was operational, so I expected it will work.
Sadly, it says that my installation doesn't have internet, so I still couldn't install plugins. I see that in the "connectivity check" my host is 8.8.8.8 and my port 53; I've pressed on test and there it said "server is unreachable".
What am I supposed to do?
# Answer
This is a known issue (WIFI fine, but no internet connection to install plugins) and could well be related to firewall or blocking of certain ports by your Internet Service Provider (ISP).
I quote from the provided link (OctoPrint issue tracker):
> Disabling the connectivity check did fix the repository access. The check was configure to use google (8.8.8.8) on port various ports (22, 53, 5000, etc. Not sure the default). I do not have any firewall set up outgoing, unless it is buried in the Raspberian install that I am not aware of.
---
> I stumbled across this issue with the same problem, and I fixed the connectivity check by changing the IP to OpenDNS with 1.1.1.1 instead of the Google DNS 8.8.8.8 set by default.
---
> For me this issue was resolved when I update Date+Time on the raspberry...
> 2 votes
---
Tags: octoprint
--- |
thread-10248 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10248 | CR-10 randomly pauses for a few seconds | 2019-06-12T20:32:46.783 | # Question
Title: CR-10 randomly pauses for a few seconds
I thought I have already had and fixed every problem one could possibly have with a 3D printer. Guess I was wrong.
I haven't used my Creality CR-10 for a few weeks, everything was working the last time I tried. Today I wanted to print something minor and the printer just randomly paused a few times in the middle of the print.
To be exact, it seems that after a few G-code commands have been executed the printer just freezes for like 10 seconds and then continues like nothing happened. This occurred a few times and every time the nozzle is melting the surrounding plastic and extruding a little which ruins the print.
I have tried:
* Print from SD Card
* Print from Laptop via USB connection to Ultimaker Cura
* Print different models at different settings
My theory is that either there is a core problem with how Ultimaker Cura exports the G-code files or something is wrong with the printer software. I thought that maybe re-installing the firmware might fix it but I heard that that is a risky process. What do I do?
# Answer
**Edit: The z-hop problem has been fixed in Cura 4.2.**
---
This is a known issue with Cura 4.1 when z-hop is enabled.
If you touch the z-axis motor frame while it is apparently stationary, you may feel it is actually moving.
The solution is to set a value (I used something like 250 in conjunction with an Ender 3) for the "Maximum Z Speed".
First you need to get the setting to be visible, so go to the "Settings" menu and choose "Configure setting visibility...":
Then in the "Print settings" panel:
The full story is available on GitHub at \[4.1 - current master branch\] Z feed rates #5753.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I experienced the same with 4.1. Everything went back to normal after going back to 4.0 despite that all settings were identical as far as I could see. I compared the two g-code files using a simple file comparison tool. They were very different, hardly anything was the same. I still need to figure out what they mean. The model and thus the g-code files are far to large to go through. So, I will have to use a simple and small model to start unraveling what those differences mean.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: firmware, creality-cr-10
--- |
thread-10595 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10595 | Bevel gears 3D model | 2019-07-15T04:27:54.393 | # Question
Title: Bevel gears 3D model
Goal : create a pair of bevel gears for 90 degrees angle axles.
Context : the gears are designed with an OpenSCAD library (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1604369, function 'pfeilkegelradpaar'), then I try to modify them using TinkerCAD.
The problem : When printing the STL exported from OpenSCAD, everything seems fine. But when I import the STL in TinkerCAD, there is a separation where the angle changes, and I cannot seem to find a configuration that works.
Also, when previewing with Cura (tried with the older v14 as well as the latest v4), I get the same behavior : the exported STL creates a solid object, while the STL from TinkerCAD (even if not modified, just imported and exported) has a 'gap' of about 8 layers.
And, of course, everything fails afterwards.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
# Answer
I don't know how to explain how the problem is occurring with the STL post-processing tools you are using.
Try loading the STL directly into a slicer and view the result, then slice and view the toolpath. It is always helpful to eliminate steps in an attempt to narrow down where the problem is generated.
Were I to try to patch the OpenSCAD model, I would create a hub component that overlays where the crack is found. This would be small cylinder with a hole that overlays the hub.
I have had success adding elements and holes to existing OpenSCAD models and imported STL files using OpenSCAD.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, 3d-design, slicing
--- |
thread-10610 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10610 | Using both .gcode and .gbr files in a hybrid 3D printer + circuit etching machine? (RepRap 1.4 with Marlin firmware) | 2019-07-16T06:45:47.640 | # Question
Title: Using both .gcode and .gbr files in a hybrid 3D printer + circuit etching machine? (RepRap 1.4 with Marlin firmware)
I'm making a hybrid 3D printer and circuit etching (CNC milling) machine that can both 3D print and etch prototype circuit boards. I'll be using Marlin firmware with an Arduino Mega & RepRap 1.4 board. It will have a 3D printer head and a milling head side by side. I'd like to have it be able to read both .gbr (for circuit etching) and .gcode (for 3D printing) files. How should I configure Marlin to read both types?
# Answer
You can use both .gcode and .gbr files one one machine. We do it where I work.
However, when we make prototype circuit boards, we don't print them; we acquire circuit board blanks, and then we either:
1. Use a diode laser to burn off the top layer of garolite for isolation traces, then do a chemical dip to remove that copper, then another laser burn to expose pads for surface mount components; or
2. Use a spindle tool to remove the top layer of garolite where needed for pads, as well as mill through the copper layer for isolation traces.
We have not found a printable material that has the conductivity we want in a circuit board.
Source: I work for Hyrel 3D
Note: we don't use Marlin on Arduino, we use in-house firmware on STM32F429 boards.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Well, I'm Using pronterface to send the gcode to print the traces of my PCB with an ink pen (sharpie); since the parameter in the Marlin-Rep rap1.4 is configured to fast print, So I can easily send the code just setting the origin or Zero to print on any area of the printer.
To set the new Zero just use the code G92, for example we need to print in the middle of the printer, so just move the spindle to that position and set G92 X0 Y0, then andjust the Z height then set G92 Z0. for your milling add a Z secure travel to avoid collide with the surface and or mechanical clamps
This video shows a PCB print in the 3Dprinter, so for the milling process will be the same. The video shows also the process making the holes on the CNC; I didn't do in the 3d printer because in that time I hadn't a dremel support.
Also Tech2C teach how you can configure the whole printer, just follow this link
So, be happy milling in your 3d printer
> **Note:** for gbrl files I haven't tested but you can try to read and send your code thru this program (*pronterface*) probably you cand get some messages like "uknown code" just like ***gcode sender*** does while trying to send codes for laser etching (old versions).
> 0 votes
---
Tags: marlin, diy-3d-printer, cnc
--- |
thread-10623 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10623 | Can the resin from Resin based 3D printers be used to make printed circuit boards? | 2019-07-18T20:06:52.717 | # Question
Title: Can the resin from Resin based 3D printers be used to make printed circuit boards?
Do the properties of 3D printer resin allow it to stick to copper clad surfaces when cured? I am interested in turning my filament based 3D printer into a photo plotter with a laser that can cure a thin layer of resin coated onto a copper surface.
# Answer
Brushed aluminum is a common bed surface for resin based printers. The aspect of the aluminum that is important to the print is the adhesion, hence the roughness of brushed aluminum. It has to be sufficient to hold the print in place, but not so extreme as to cause destruction on removal.
In the case of copper as a print surface, one would certainly want some mechanical adhesion in the form of surface roughness. You've not specified the forces that would be applied to the copper once cured. If you do not plan to manipulate the copper surface in an excessive manner, it's likely that it would adhere. It's also just as likely to pop free if the plate or surface is flexed. I've seen no reference online to copper coated print beds. This would lead me to believe that it was tested and rejected as suitable for 3D printing, but not necessarily unsuitable for your purposes.
This is one of those situations where testing is warranted and not particularly difficult to accomplish. You can purchase UV curing resin, build a tin to hold the copper surface and pour the expected layer thickness. Leave it in the sun and let nature's UV do the curing.
Consider if you have not yet done so to research safety practice for handling this substance. Wear gloves and eye protection, cover any exposed skin surfaces and have good ventilation.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: resin
--- |
thread-10622 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10622 | Is there a way to configure printer extruder to go all way up when printing finishes in Ender 3? | 2019-07-18T19:13:58.623 | # Question
Title: Is there a way to configure printer extruder to go all way up when printing finishes in Ender 3?
With Ender 3 is there a way to configure printer extruder to go all way up when the printing finishes?
Or even with the Ultimaker Cura software?
I want this, because i'm going to put a switch on the top of the printer that will switch it off when the printer finishes (if i can make the arm with the extruder go all the way up when printing finishes.)
How can this be done?
# Answer
The most safe way to move the printer up to the maximum print height is to use a concept known as "**keywords**" (sort of constants that are filled by the correct value when slicing) in Ultimaker Cura, certainly if you have multiple printers with different print area sizes.
To use these keywords, just add these in between curly braces and insert them into your slicer "End G-code" script. These keywords will be substituted with actual numbers from the printer settings or slicing configuration parameters. In this case we need to use the maximum print height which is specified by the keyword `machine_height`. This keyword takes its value from the printer settings, set for the printer in the graphical user interface of the printer settings, see image below (this is a configuration of an Ultimaker 3 Extended, it also shows the **Start G-code** and **End G-code** which you can tweak yourself, as seen by the additional G-code line `G0 F10000 Z{machine_height}` that has been added for this demonstration).
E.g. similar to this answer, you could solve this with a keyword. Now when you slice for a certain printer (e.g. with the printer settings of the image above), the correct value will be filled in automatically when slicing the print object as can be seen from this snippet of G-code:
```
...
G91 ;Relative movement
G0 F15000 X8.0 Z0.5 E-4.5 ;Wiping+material retraction
G0 F10000 Z1.5 E4.5 ;Compensation for the retraction
G90 ;Disable relative movement
G0 F10000 Z300 ; <------------ note to see {machine_height} be resolved to 300 mm
...
```
---
*This is specifically for Ultimaker Cura. Do note that e.g. Slic3r even takes the keyword concept further by allowing arithmetic and logic, similar as you could do in programming languages!*
> 3 votes
# Answer
In Ultimaker Cura (and pretty much any slicer), you can easily modify the end code of the Ender 3. To go all the way up, you could add the following in the end:
```
G90 ;absolute positioning
G1 Z300 ;goto height 300 ; Move to 300 mm = 30 cm.
G91 ;back to relative positioning
```
> 1 votes
# Answer
If you use OctoPrint, there is a plugin that will allow you to take action on certain events, such as print completion. The action that it can take would allow you to turn of a TP-link smart plug; which would turn off the printer. You could then use the phone app to turn it back on.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-10629 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10629 | Why is my 3D printer not extruding properly? | 2019-07-19T15:07:26.323 | # Question
Title: Why is my 3D printer not extruding properly?
I have a Duplicator i3 mini, which has yet to make it a month without breaking. This time it is extra broken because the filament is not extruding properly. the most successful print I've had yet had about a centimeter before turning into an absolute mess. I have a picture. It was not stringy, and had the exact shape i was trying to print, but was like a frame of a sort. I am printing with matterhackers MH build series PLA, which has worked before this started happening. What should I do? What troubleshooting steps should I take?
# Answer
Underextrusion and clogs can also be caused by insufficient temperature in the hot end. You've not reference your temperatures, so consider to use a test model and print at different temperatures. Too low temps can result in the problem you present, while too hot temps will increase stringing and peculiar blobs on the print.
If your slicer changes print speed at the layer of destruction, it may also be too fast, which is related to temperatures. Simplify3D allows speed variation as well as temperature variation at selected layers, but it requires deliberate action on the part of the operator.
> 5 votes
# Answer
That looks like underextrusion as a result of a clog. Try cleaning the nozzle or replacing it.
See this link for more information about clogged nozzles. If I have a nozzle clog, can I easily get rid of it by simply replacing the nozzle?
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, pla, troubleshooting, extrusion
--- |
thread-10538 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10538 | How to post-process G-code to make prints faster using splines and arcs? | 2019-07-10T04:48:36.217 | # Question
Title: How to post-process G-code to make prints faster using splines and arcs?
Recently (in 2017) there was a paper that got some publicity by researchers who are using a B spline algorithm to reduce vibrations in 3D printers. But before them, a B Spline implementation seems to have been first been made open-source by an alias named DeepSoic here. I would like to be able to print faster using the method described in the research paper, through post-processing G-code. I'm pretty sure these two sources use basically the same technique but I could be misunderstanding things.
Basically instead of stopping and starting for travel moves, speed changes are done in a curvy fashion, so the head never stops and the printer never shakes. This makes the print smoother and also faster. I think printing 10 times faster is something that is really awesome once you try it. Laser cutting relies on cubic splines for a different reason; to create curves in space. But it seems like these techniques are doing something unique to to 3D printing -- using them to adjust head acceleration/de-acceleration to create smoother movement arcs of the print head. Since laser cutters have a constant head movement, this technique wouldn't help them much.
The downside seems to be that it makes way more G-code commands, overloading the USB port, since it's sending all the points on a curve so quickly. I'm assuming a smart person today would really only use it through an SD card (which has disadvantages) or if they bought a 3D printer with a free Wi-Fi module thrown in (which also has disadvantages). Maybe a high baud rate helps.
I was wondering if there are any more established ways to use this obviously extremely important and beneficial and simple algorithm. Initially I was thinking that this is obviously something that should be added as a checkbox in a slicer, and not something to be implemented in Marlin. But after writing this post I realized that a Marlin implementation would allow you to use this technique over USB, but only if the slicer steedleaders are also using its special G-codes for this optimization. I don't care if it's a post-processing technique like the research paper's or a special Marlin-friendly version, I just want to use this technique even if I have to use this Huawei Wi-Fi module.
Basically I would like to know the best way to get started using this technique through a slicer or other software.
---
I think there is a miscommunication between users of CNC laser cutters and users of 3D printers. In laser cutting the arcs are used to define the path of the cut, which would be equivalent to filament extrusion. In laser cutting, the motion of the laser itself is constant. But in 3D printing, arcs can be used to smooth the speed of the printhead as it moves across the perimeter, and then to infill. It is using arcs for controlling the head well which isn't a problem in laser cutting. Since it's about the head movement, and not the model itself, I don't see how the STL file really matters.
It's really about using an arc to set head speed (a first derivative of position). Not anything about the shape of the model (which would just be position). At least that's my interpretation.
The Wi-Fi module is interesting because it receives an IP address from my router, then my router stops listing it as a connected device. But it still connected, because I can access it wirelessly. I am going to look into it more once I can fix some other problems with this dual-head. But so far there's a reason to think it might be backdoored.
# Answer
> 6 votes
*I would have liked to answer linking to credible official sources, but I cannot add references either on direct B-spline printing. So I'm writing down my thoughts. I've familiarized myself in B-splines to understand what they are and read into the 2 references given by the OP.*
---
Basically, the printer software only allows printing of straight lines. Yes I know we can give orders to the printer to print a curve (using `G2` or `G3`), but these eventually will be converted to printing straight lines. There is no ready made printer firmware available to print cubic curves directly to my knowledge. If it would be possible, these curves should eventually be translated into smaller straight lines by the firmware of timed stepper rotational output. These extra calculations would demand a considerable effort of the printer board processor, most probably far more an 8-bit processor would be able to handle.
Comparing the paper released in 2017 to the G-code pre-processing software reveals that although both seem to refer to B-spline techniques, they are implemented differently. For example, the pre-processing software aims to reduce the linear travel moves by replacing these with B-spline curves (and not affect the actual print object), while the paper focuses on the optimization of the actual printing curves being optimized by B-spline curves (also using a pre-processor). Both eventually would need to create a multitude of small straight lines to have the printer be able to actually print the object as there is no 3D printing firmware solution to print curves. Do note that the method in the paper has been questioned by the RepRap community, which demonstrated that they could print the same object way faster than the B-spline optimized example. Furthermore, do note that the Marlin community is probably moving in that direction as can be seen from e.g. this feature request and this G-code meta overview; G-code instruction `G5`.
So, both methods rely on pre-processing G-codes by identification of sliced coordinate (print) moves, translation into Bézier/B-spline curves for (print) moves, which eventually are translated into normal `G0/G1` (print) moves. It does not appear that the Marlin community/developers are aiming to implement Bézier or B-spline curves soon. This implies that if you want to pursuit printing B-splines, you need to make your own pre-processor, or dive into Marlin C++ development; an 8-bit based printer board would not be sufficient indeed like the OP mentioned, up-scaling to 32-bit or interfacing with USB might be the only solution.
# Answer
> 3 votes
In more practical terms, you could design the part so that the corners are rounded (also known as fillets). This will help keep the print head moving and would prevent the sudden stop and start effect that causes "jerking". Further 8 bit controllers tend to get saturated when reading large amounts of g-code from the sd card or the serial port. Upgrading to a 32 bit controller will prevent that kind of jerking.
Both of these methods pale in comparison to just speeding up the print. Upgrading the hardware to be faster (various methods exist) would yield more of a reduced time than trying to optimize the g-code (in my humble opinion). Delta printers have the potential to be the fastest type of FDM printer, assuming that you could get the filament to melt fast enough.
---
Tags: g-code, slicing
--- |
thread-10641 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10641 | Using a XYZ printer on Linux | 2019-07-21T01:48:04.343 | # Question
Title: Using a XYZ printer on Linux
I have a da Vinci miniMaker and am trying to find a way to get XYZware on my computer which is running Ubuntu Linux 19.04. On the XYZprinting website I found references to a version build for Ubuntu, but it was an outdated version with no download link. If anyone knows any way to print to any XYZ 3D printed on Ubuntu, it would be appreciated if you could let me know.
# Answer
> 4 votes
XYZprinting is a company known for vendor lock-in (even filament), so it's not surprising that their software's Linux support is bad, but apparently it is possible to ditch their XYZware and get it to print gcode from whatever slicer you like. Check out the miniMover repository:
> This is a project that lets you send GCode to an XYZ da Vinci prniter. It will also convert from a .3w file to .gcode and back, and can monitor and setup the printer as well. This works with newer printers that implement the version 3 serial protocol. These include the Nano, Mini W, miniMaker and Jr. line of printers among others.
You'll also need to setup a profile for your printer in a slicer (I'd recommend Ultimaker Cura), but it looks like the thread linked from the README has information on settings needed.
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Tags: software, linux
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thread-10643 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10643 | Digital vs. analog pins | 2019-07-21T02:57:43.977 | # Question
Title: Digital vs. analog pins
In the RAMPS v1.4 board, it seems like the X, Y, and Z motors all use at least one analog pin, while the extruder motors are entirely digital. See just the top left block of this photo:
Is there any advantage to using analog vs. digital pins in the motors?
As far as I can tell the traditional thermistors have to be have an Analog pin input because of the way they are read and processed. The MOSFETs for the heated bed and hot ends (and fans) should be digital because of the way transistors work. The end-stops are also digital because they are on-off switches.
But besides that, I can't tell if there is any other requirements or advantages to using some pins in analog / digital, especially for the motors which have seemingly contradictory pin assignments.
There are also three digital pins I don't recognize: MISO, MOSI, and SCK.
Right now I'm looking to add 2 new motors using 8 total pins (6 Digital pins, 2 for ground). It seems to me I could use any combination of the D pin available in the image:
# Answer
"Analog pin" is misleading nomenclature. Every pin is a digtal pin, but some digital pins happen to also be connected to the analog-to-digital converter and can thus *also* handle measuring analog signals.
Every analog pin can also serve as a perfectly good digital pin. The reverse is not true; if something requires an analog pin you cannot use a digital pin. The only things that require analog pins are the thermistors, for the rest (motors, MOSFETS, endstops,...) you can use either a digital pin or an analog pin.
> 10 votes
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Tags: ramps-1.4, ramps
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thread-4542 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4542 | Looking to use 3D printing to make a master plate for rubber stamp vulcanizing | 2017-08-25T06:31:02.997 | # Question
Title: Looking to use 3D printing to make a master plate for rubber stamp vulcanizing
I am an art rubber stamp maker, using a vulcanizer to make art rubber stamps from molds that are usually created with a magnesium plate.
The normal process is to send artwork off to an engraving firm to acid etch the magnesium plate (11 pt depth is desired) and that metal plate is then used with uncured matrix boards (a bakelight type material) that is "cured" in the vulcanizer that is then used over and over to make as many images of the rubber stamps as one would want. The vulcanizer heats up to 300 to 320 °F, and one usually uses 2000 to 2500 p.s.i. of pressure for 10 to 15 minutes to cure a mold. Once the mold is cured, it is impervious to the heat used in the vulcanizer, and the heat is used to cure the unvulcanized rubber (again, 300 or so degrees, 2000 psi, or so, for 8 to 10 minutes.
In reading up about the melting points of PLA and ABS, the 200 °C equates to around 460 °F, so there doesn't seem like the heat of the vulcanizer will be an issue, and the pressure isn't applied all at once, one usually allows the uncured matrix board to heat up before the high pressure is obtained, I'm just curious if any other stamp makers have had success with this method and/or have any suggestions about STL files for this type of printing, if there needs to be 2 or 3 degree shoulder angle added to the file configuration, or any other suggestions.
# Answer
This would likely not work. ABS has a *glass transition* temperature of 105 °C. It doesn't have *a* melting point because it's amorphous. Rather, as you heat the part up, it gradually transitions from a solid to a viscous liquid, but there is no "hard" transition from solid to molten at one particular temperature.
The glass transition temperature, at 105 °C, is significantly lower than the 200 °C "melting point" of ABS you quoted. At 160 °C, while ABS would not be molten sufficiently for 3D printing, it definitely becomes flexible and would deform easily.
I do not think it would hold its shape very well over the long period of time it has to spend in your vulcanizing machine, under high pressure and well above its glass transition temperature.
The surface of 3D printed objects also usually has a somewhat rough finish. If you wanted to make satisfactory stamps, you would probably need to spend a long time manually finishing the 3D printed master before making a mold from it.
> 4 votes
# Answer
PEI filament has glass transition temperature higher than or close to 200 C. It is difficult to print with as it is printed about 350 C and requires heated chamber reaching to 90 C.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I don't know if I understood your question properly. You using the mold to create a rubber stamp and then you use that to stamp over stuff? If so, you simply can use 3D printing to create the stamp, if not, my answer is rubbish.
You can use a flex material to create the stamp itself and then use some hard material to create the handle. Also, you can create a mold around the stamp and use resin to fill it and/or create a resin mold and then use that mold to create the stamps by filling the "holes" with more resin.
> 0 votes
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Tags: pla, 3d-design, software, abs
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thread-10636 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10636 | How to decide print orientation? | 2019-07-20T15:43:58.080 | # Question
Title: How to decide print orientation?
**Please Note:** This question is *not* about the design. It's about deciding print orientation *after the design*.
I have a small, but complex piece which I need to print. Here are two images of different orientation for you:
No matter how I orient it, it will require a support structure. Any which way I print it, I believe there will be pros/cons to doing so. My question is, **Is there a thought process for how to orient the part for printing?** What are some of the things to consider when deciding print orientation?
Note-1: For a size reference of the part, looking at the second image, it is approximately 60 mm from the top of the long bottom part with the two "claws" point down, to the top of the vertical piece which has the two larger chamfered holes in it. In the same image, the left part will be at the bottom when put into use, though will be suspended (the chamfered holes will have wood screws in them, with a block of wood on the other side from the chamfers.
Note-2: For this example, I will be using Priline PLA filament on an Anet-A8 printer.
# Answer
(Love the question and here is my 2 cents).
Firstly, you want to minimize supports. Even if you have dissolvable supports, you would still want to minimize the usage.
For Example:
At first glance of the finished object, it is not obvious at what angle it was printed. Upon close inspection the overhang in the part is designed such that it can be printed without supports. This brings me to my first point:
**Design with fabrication in mind**
I've often designed myself into a corner with parts that are complex and are impossible to print properly; or they use up too much filament in the supports. To this end I try to *think about the shadow* that the part will cast on the bed if there was a light source directly over head. I often orient the part so that it will
**Cast the smallest possible shadow.**
Then there are the features. Does the hole need to be round? Does this flange need to be strong? If so then I try to ensure that the feature is oriented in the XY plane as much as possible, because the Z axis is the weakest. Therefore if you have a hole, and it needs to be strong, then it should be printed perpendicular to the Z axis.
> 4 votes
# Answer
To answer the generic question *"Is there a thought process for how to orient the part for printing?"*, I would say *"Yes there absolutely is such a process!"*.
Part of this though process can be aesthetics, structural strength, limiting filament waste, print duration, etc.
For the given example I would try to think of the load case (if it has to bear a load) that subjects the part and prevent a perpendicular load to the deposition plane. If the load is low or non existent, you could orientate the print such that you minimize wasting material, or get the best aesthetics (removing supports *can* leave its scars).
> 4 votes
# Answer
First of all, if it were me, I'd split this into two parts at the "obvious" place (where one protrudes from a large flat surface of the other) and connect them after printing, with a push fit and glue (or solvent welding if it works for your material), or holes for threaded fasteners.
With that said, if you opt to print it as one part, this interface is going to be the weak point of the whole print if you use the second orientation, with the "T"-like bracket part sticking up from a flat top surface of the "C" part. This is because the walls of the top part will be sitting on infill or skin, not matching walls going all the way down; even with 100% infill the walls won't be aligned and bonded with coresponding extrusion lines below them.
I would print this *either* with the lightest-gray faces facing us in the second image against the bed, or with the dark gray rectangle face in the lower-right of the second image against the bed (same orientation as the first image, as I interpret it). Both of these will require significant support structure, and I'd be tempted to model the support rather than auto-generating it, but Cura's "experimental" "support tree" feature works very well for this kind of situation and might do just as well or better.
Either of these orientations makes the above interface simply part of the layer contours, rather than two parts loosely stuck to each other. The holes should print fine either way - bridging works well for holes - and the pegs will need support one way but not the other.
Andrew Morton noted in a comment:
> Could the part with the screw holes be the same width as the other part?
And indeed I would also think about modifications you could make to the part that would facilitate easier and stronger prints.
> 3 votes
# Answer
This part is quite complex and there are 3 orientations it could be printed at. I will assume picture 1 shows the item in orthonormal XYZ orientation: Z up, X to the front(-rightish) corner, Y to the (backish-)right. Using these we can chose have an XY (Pic 1), XZ (Pic 2) and YZ (Unpictured) plane of the build to touch on the build plate. Luckily this object is symmetric along the middles, so we won't need to look at two cases each.
To evaluate the best print orientation, we can look at the loads that will come to the part, the aesthetic (we get better resolutions in the Z than the XY on printers!) and of course the need for support structures and thus waste material.
Aesthetics are probably not an issue for this structural part, so let's take this part as an example and look at the three orientations and how to reason which orientation might be best.
## XY
Using the lowest XY plane as build contact we will need to support the upper arc of the bracket and the back-branch with the T-support also needs support. So we need quite some support material, which is a con.
Also, the layers in the C-Clamp are aligned in such a way that the clamp might easily break in its long line, but due to the length, it might be able to bend quite some. Remember that PLA is brittle though, but you could post-process the part by baking it to generate better inter-layer bonding.
On the upside, the T-stiffening is in its most sturdy orientation and the back extension has the most stable print orientation. You might want to add extra bottom layers to fight the loss of layers that are printed on the support structure though.
## XZ
The Orientation in the 2nd Picture has moved the interlayer boundaries to be on the short arms of the C-clamp, making it more fragile than the XY orientation.
The T-stiffing and back-branch are also significantly weakened and might break on stresses into the direction we had defined as Y in the premise.
It also needs to support the whole back of the C-Clamp during print, which is a considerable amount, though probably lower than in the XY orientation.
## YZ
The unshown orientation puts the C-clamp in such an orientation that each layer has a complete C. This makes the clamp as sturdy as it could be.
The back-branch is quite solid along its length (Y) and the stiffening T comes as an integral part of the perimeters, making it good to take loads from the branch. It does suffer from weakening the long part against forces splitting it along the long axis, which would be directed in the X-axis of our premise.
This orientation also reduces the needed support to a minimum, as we don't necessarily need to support the "bridging" part of the T-support.
## Conclusion
I would choose the YZ orientation based on both material need as well as the physical benefits of achieving the least weak configuration.
## Optimisation
The print object could be slightly optimized to reduce the needed support at the cost of increasing the part weight in the YZ orientation:
As suggested, widening the T to touch the build plate and the accompanying part to do too would make the part larger and would turn the support into an integral part of the print.
One could also turn the T into a Y structure with an overline for a shorter bridge and longer stretches of the shell that can dissipate the forces on the T-bar to the clamp more effectively.
> 3 votes
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Tags: 3d-design, print-orientation
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thread-10647 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10647 | Where did I go wrong by trying to add an extra motor to my board? | 2019-07-22T03:57:56.643 | # Question
Title: Where did I go wrong by trying to add an extra motor to my board?
I'd like to add an extra motor to my board and I'm not sure where I went wrong. The motor will be used to spin a rotating wheel/carriage of potential hot ends to switch to. Because it's just a motor it doesn't need a heatrod or a temperature sensor.
I had just a MKS\_BASE 1.0 board, so I purchased a RAMPS 1.4 board from Ebay to be its extender.
(( \**Warning \** this board is cheap because it was improperly produced and is a fire hazard: https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS\_1.4 . I recommend using a CNC shield instead ))
This red board is meant to fit an Arduino Mega, but I figure I can use the extra pins on the MKS\_BASE1.0 and connect them with jumper wire to the RAMPS 1.4 board. It made sense in case I want to add other things to the original MKS\_BASE 1.0 board (like more hot end heater cartridges).
I connected the 5V and one GND pin from my MKS\_BASE 1.0. I also connected some of the SERVOS pins from the MKS\_BASE 1.0: D37 is the 'Dir', D35 is the 'Step', and D17 is the 'Enable'. I also connected the 12V power supply to the RAMPS 1.4 board too.
When it came time to modify Marlin everything was a bit annoying because although Marlin makes it easy to add more extruders, adding just motors is a little more difficult. I had to change the number of extruders to be 3 (from dual extrusion to dual extrusion + extra motor), enable an extra temperature pin (which i am leaving empty) and also modify the pins.h file.
I probably wouldn't have had simulate this motor as an extruder if I knew the raw Arduino commands for spinning a motor using calls to `D37`, `D35`, and `D17`, so I figured simulating an extruder would be better, but now I'm second-guessing that decision.
Here's my modification to pins.h:
```
#define E2_STEP_PIN 35
#define E2_DIR_PIN 37
#define E2_ENABLE_PIN 17
#define HEATER_2_PIN 17
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 3 in Configuration.h
#define TEMP_2_PIN 3
// Marlin 0-indexes these pins, so "2" is actually for the "3"rd extruder
```
First thing I have to do is allow for cold extrusions by using M302 S-80. The other (real) extruder motors will all move after this command, so I have that part working.. .
In Repetier-Host I am just selecting Extruder 3 and trying to "push filament" through it but the motor isn't moving. I'm using an A4988 stepper driver on a Kysan 1124090. Actually, I did this whole process with two motors because I wasn't sure whether the hardware itself would be an issue, so with another set of pins I'm using a Suncor Motor and it also doesn't respond and I also don't know why.
It would be really helpful to debug if I could run a single G-code command just to get the motor running at a speed, and take that out of the equation. it doesn't have to be a command to an "extruder" but just a command to a pin out, like `M42 D35 S100` (but I don't know the raw command for just testing a motor's connections).
# Answer
> 1 votes
* I got it to work using a CNC shield. Still haven't figured out the RAMPS 1.4 board.
* It doesn't work using D1 and D2 inside Aux-1 because they are used in serial communication to an LCD. So every time you send a command over USB, they get clogged. I ended up using ports 4, 5, and 63 and it works perfectly (no pin mapping needed like in other answer).
```
#define E4_STEP_PIN 4 // D4
#define E4_DIR_PIN 5// D5
#define E4_ENABLE_PIN 63// D63
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
`D35`, `D37`, `D17` are the pin labels on the Arduino Mega. *These do not correspond to pin numbers within Marlin*.
I believe that `D35` actually corresponds to marlin pin `49` and this is the number you should enter in your firmware. You can find the mapping in fastio\_1280.h:
```
Hardware Pin : 02 03 06 07 01 05 15 16 17 18 23 24 25 26 64 63 13 12 46 45 44 43 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 50 70 52 51 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 22 21 20 19 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 04 08 09 10 11 14 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 47 48 49 61 62 65 66 67 68 69 79 80 81 98 99 100
Port : E0 E1 E4 E5 G5 E3 H3 H4 H5 H6 B4 B5 B6 B7 J1 J0 H1 H0 D3 D2 D1 D0 A0 A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 C7 C6 C5 C4 C3 C2 C1 C0 D7 G2 G1 G0 L7 L6 L5 L4 L3 L2 L1 L0 B3 B2 B1 B0 F0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 K0 K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 E2 E6 E7 xx xx H2 H7 G3 G4 xx xx xx xx xx D4 D5 D6 xx xx J2 J3 J4 J5 J6 J7 xx xx xx xx xx
Logical Pin : 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx
```
Look on the top row for the pin number (e.g. D35 corresponds to 35), then look on the bottom row to find the pin number to use in Marlin (in this case, 49).
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Tags: troubleshooting, ramps-1.4, wiring
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thread-10656 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10656 | Models are printing with a scratch on the side | 2019-07-22T20:16:19.893 | # Question
Title: Models are printing with a scratch on the side
I just recently got an Ender 3 and have been trying to learn the do’s and don’ts. My first model looked like it had under extrusion and stringing, but my second model looks like it has frequent “scratches” along the sides. I printed it with two materials, a white sample PLA that came with, and a black Sunlu PLA.
I could use some insight on how to improve it, I’m seeking to make some fairly smooth looking models similar to Fat Dragon games.
# Answer
The vertical lines you are referring too are the result of ringing or vibration. This is commonly encountered with high print speeds, high acceleration values or if a sudden change in direction takes place.
This can be solved by printing slower, decreasing acceleration values and checking for mechanical issues. E.g. the belts may be too flexible (or contain a tension spring) or there may be a loose part somewhere.
> 0 votes
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Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, pla, troubleshooting, creality-ender-3
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thread-10659 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10659 | Changes rods for linear rails | 2019-07-22T21:46:15.727 | # Question
Title: Changes rods for linear rails
I would like to know if it is possible to change the rollers for linear rails, just replacing or some calculation should be done and take some precautions.
In my case, I have a Core XY DIY printer.
I was reading about need to migrate of 8 Bits to 32 Bits, because for get better resolution, results and should be update more things, like add autolevel, etc.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I've seen mods for the Hypercube (and Hypercube Evolution) using linear rails (e.g. this mod), so yes that is possible. You need to redesign a few parts and make sure you have the correct length, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer
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thread-10632 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10632 | Do you have trouble with 3D printer on UPS during short power outages? | 2019-07-20T00:33:14.463 | # Question
Title: Do you have trouble with 3D printer on UPS during short power outages?
Using a Gearman RepRap with Slic3r, printing from an SD card, with an uniterupted power supply (UPS), and both PLA and ABS filaments, short power outages often result in x/y-axis offsets (see image). During an outage the power is not as clear from a UPS as from a power conditioner. If both x and y axes offset the results look like Why did my print fall off its raft?. Are you experiencing these same issues? Have you solved the issue.
The image above shows an x-axis shift that occurred evenly across eight parts distributed across the bed. The filament was ABS. The parts still adhered to the bed. Note: the G-code file normally prints well. Thus, the file is not corrupt.
# Answer
Part of your self-answer:
> What is puzzling is why did the 3D printer run as if the computer was still operating it, when is was printing from the SD card? Was the circuitry getting power from the USB cable from the computer?
is more of an extension of the question, which I'll answer. Generally, yes, the logic of many (most?) 3D printers can be powered by the USB connection. You can try it sometime with the printer not plugged in to the AC power source at all. Under such a power configuration, the motors (not to mention the heating elements) should not operate at all, and I think the firmware has logic to detect this condition and not try to print under it, but I may be mistaken. However, in any case, in the event of an outage during printing, the logic board will remain powered if it's connected by USB, and especially if the outage is short enough, it might not even notice that the motors and heating elements are not functioning, yielding a result like what you saw.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I believe I resolved this issue. The next power outage will tell. After getting a larger UPS used for robotic testers, when swapping out the UPS, I noticed the 3D printer was plugged in to the surge protector side without the battery, probably because the smaller UPS was only rated for power to the computer. Now, with the larger UPS, the 3D printer also has power backup. What is puzzling is why did the 3D printer run as if the computer was still operating it, when is was printing from the SD card? Was the circuitry getting power from the USB cable from the computer?
Note: If one is running their 3D printer using a notebook with a charged battery and the 3D printer doesn't have a UPS, it would have similar behavior.
> 0 votes
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Tags: print-failure, print-axis-offset
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thread-3728 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3728 | Identifying the plastic type of an unknown spool of filament or recyclable waste | 2017-03-12T12:07:23.187 | # Question
Title: Identifying the plastic type of an unknown spool of filament or recyclable waste
Is there any way to test what kind your filament is? There are no labels on the spools and I don't know whether they are ABS or PLA.
I got the plastic with the printer, which is no longer sold (Solidoodle 2). Since I bought it on eBay that is probably why it has unprofessional filament. The plastic filament came with the printer which is now off sale (Solidoodle v2).
I set my extruder to 210 °C and bed to 50 °C and it printed fine (with tons of hairspray and painters tape).
I figured out where I got it. I got it from Solidoodle (who have gone out of business) when I bought the Solidoodle 2 right after it came out.
I bought PLA and ABS so it has to be one of the two. Any other ways without having to burn and smell plastic? I just have the roll with no numbers, works or anything on it. And how to I smell without breathing in the fumes?
# Answer
> 5 votes
ABS dissolves in acetone, you could try clipping a small section and leave it in some acetone for a few minutes and if it begins to dissolve it's safe to assume that it's ABS, if not then you'll know that it's not.
This won't confirm that it is PLA, only whether it's ABS or not.
# Answer
> 5 votes
I can identify filament type by smell of it when it is hot. Touch it with solder or smth.
* PLA emits a sweet smell resembling the burnt sugar.
* ABS smells of chemicals.
* PVC smells of chemicals too, but this smell is very acrid and makes you sneeze. PVC is toxic to burn and to print!
* PC has a very peculiar smell. If you bottle that smell into air freshener and call it "flower meadow" it will work.
* PET You know this smell. You experience it every time you unbox new gadgets.
* HDPE and PP smell of church. Of hot candles. They are not easy to separate, but an experienced person can do it by sound and feeling of snapping filament.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Using The Burn Test to Identify Plastic Materials is one way. From the link:
> To initially determine whether a material is thermoplastic (meltable) or thermoset (non-meltable) type, heat a metal or glass stirring rod until it glows red or orange (to about 500°F / 260°C) and press it against the sample. If the sample softens, the material is a thermoplastic; if it does not, it's probably a thermoset.
>
> Next, hold the sample to the edge of a flame until it ignites. If no flame is produced quickly, hold the sample in the flame for about 10 seconds. If the material burns, note the color of the flame, the nature of the smoke, the presence of soot in the air and whether, while burning, the sample drips.
>
> Next, extinguish the flame and cautiously smell the fumes. To identify the odor, samples of known plastic samples for comparison can be most helpful. Finally, check your observations against the known characteristics of each plastic as shown in the table below. Once you have made a tentative identification, it is usually desirable to repeat the flame test once or twice to confirm the results of the original identification. Remember that additives may affect results. For example: flame retardants can mask the polymer material's normal flame & smoke burning characteristics.
However, remember ABS and PLA aren't the only types of filament.
ABS and PLA have different melting points and smell different when melting. Maybe try melting little bits on a soldering iron or stove top. The smell could give it away. Just don't breathe in the fumes, it can be toxic, also molten plastic particles in lungs aren't great either. I'd recommend contacting the supplier.
No markings complicates matters. Not very professional of the supplier. Smelling without breathing in fumes, just don't put your face directly over the fumes, just hold it away from your face and sniff sniff the air. if the smoke curls are going into your nose you are doing it wrong.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I know this question is old, but the existing answers are all overly general relative to the question. If someone is in OP's same sitution, the "prints at 210/50" data point pretty much guarantees it's PLA. No subjective "smell tests" or playing with fire needed.
The comments indicated some doubt that it's PLA due to lack of "sweet" odor, but PLA has very little odor at all, and whether you'd describe it as "sweet" probably varies by individual.
Aside from "PLA" (usually blends of PLA of smallish amounts of proprietary ingredients), there's virtually nothing on the filament market that prints at these temperatures, especially not without adhesion and warping problems. TPU/TPE can also print at these temperatures, but you'd usually know if that's what you had just from the flexibility. These properties of PLA are largely why PLA is so popular.
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Tags: filament, part-identification
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thread-10669 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10669 | What is stepper motor binding? (When belts are too tight) | 2019-07-23T21:52:28.887 | # Question
Title: What is stepper motor binding? (When belts are too tight)
Recently I have been getting some layer shifting starting at layer one. I have had layer shifting at higher layers due to various reasons but mainly for the belts being too loose. But now I am reading that layer shifting can also be caused by belts being too tight.
The RepRap wiki page for layer shifting simply gives the mechanical reason for this as "binding". Can anyone explain what binding means? I thought it meant that the rails were crashing into something but apparently it doesn't. Then I thought it meant that the X and Y axes weren't perfectly perpendicular.
Does it mean that the "teeth" of the belts stay "stuck" to the gear for too long when moving in one direction? Why would this happen in one direction and not the other? Because the pulleys/gears are at different heights? Or just because of the belts being tighter? Or one of these reasons?
Just trying to understand what its happening so I can debug it for my particular 3D printer.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I think the RepRap wiki is using the word "binding", which translates to *"stick together or cause to stick together in a single mass"* (from Google dictionary), to indicate that some sort of friction is experienced (as you experience when things are sticking together).
When there is too much tension in the belt, pulleys and bearings experience a larger radial force stressing the balls of the bearings and pulley shafts. This causes extra friction for the stepper motor to overcome (as the friction force, tangential, is related to the radial force); this means that the stepper has to work harder and can skip steps (for more insight please read below).
---
While ball bearings are used to *reduce* friction (opposed to a bush bearing), each ball has a little friction from a couple of sources according to this reference:
> The sources of this friction are: slight deformation of the rolling elements and raceways under load, sliding friction of the rolling elements against the cage and guiding surfaces.
These effects are generally captured in a single friction coefficient called "μ". The relation between friction force (tangential) and bearing loading (radial) is written by $$P\_{friction}=P\_{load} \times \mu$$ so the higher the belt tension ($P\_{load}$), the higher the frictional force ($P\_{friction}$), the harder the stepper has to work.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It is the bearings that are binding (dragging), due to lateral forces caused by over-tight belts. It may be the bearings in the stepper motors that are binding, but it is more likely to be the bearings in the idler pulleys.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Layer shifting basically equates to the machine not being able to get the extruder to the right location at the right time. Therefore when the command to move to location xyz is executed the machine ends up short of that location.
Binding may most likely be as a result of the liner bearings sticking on the rails. Check that the carriage and bed move freely at all points. If you feel a sticking sensation at a particular point then perhaps it's time to clean and lubricate those rails. If however you feel a sticking sensation that occurs at regular intervals, then it could be a broken bearing in either the stepper or the idler.
Failing that, try cutting the print speed in half. It could just be you're pushing the machine to hard. It could also be the drivers overheating and periodically shutting down while printing. If you think that's the reason then see if you can get more cooling air moving over the control board.
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Tags: troubleshooting
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thread-10664 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10664 | How can I print a 1 cm overhang with minimal supports? | 2019-07-23T16:41:14.297 | # Question
Title: How can I print a 1 cm overhang with minimal supports?
Here's the thing I want to print.
The red ring is 3.5 mm above the bottom of the orange cylinder. The red ring is 1cm thick. I'd prefer not to use supports because I tend to break as much as I clean up.
I know this could be done in two pieces but then I'd have to make sure the pieces fit and then glue it in at that's too much. It'd be ideal to print this as one piece. How can I do this with as few supports as possible?
# Answer
## Three ideas
1. If either side of the red ring can have a chamfer to meet the cylinder, add the chamfer and print with the chamfer side down.
2. If both sides of the red ring must be perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder, can you print the cylinder lying on its side? You might get good enough print quality, especially if printing with thinner layers toward the top.
3. If that is unsatisfactory, try explicitly adding an inner support ring **as part of the model.** Don't depend on the slicer to do what you want, do it yourself. You would then be bridging to make the red disk, but that can work surprisingly well with a good cooling fan and printer.
In all three cases, consider the slot holes you have in the red ring. For case 3 you may need to add a support around those holes as well. In case 2, they would want to be pointed vertically. In case 1, the chamfer would be modified to have holes of cavities matching the slot holes.
> 4 votes
# Answer
You can print the support as a separate piece, then when the time is right pause the print, insert the support part into the ring and the resume printing. I guess you might have to use PVA glue on the support to ensure that it comes off easily when the time is right, but I'll leave that experimentation up to you. Note: This is going to be very much trial and error on your part.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Most slicers have extensive settings to control the layout of the support structures, the distance to the overhanging part, line thickness, etc.
If that doesn't work out for you, you can always change the design to add custom support structures yourself to not having to fiddle with the support settings.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I'd go for extra supports, raising the entire model half a centimeter above the plane and constructing it completely on top of supports.
That way, the supports will be easy to break off.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Assuming that the red flange needs to be flat on both sides, your best approach for printing in two parts may be a 45 degree conical cut through the flange. This will allow both parts to be printed flat on the bed, and (assuming a low layer height) should give a tolerable overhang result.
> 0 votes
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Tags: support-structures
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thread-10682 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10682 | Please suggest parameters for 0.5 mm diameter nozzle | 2019-07-25T04:21:51.177 | # Question
Title: Please suggest parameters for 0.5 mm diameter nozzle
I am building an FDM machine on my own. I am not using any commercial software. So I have a lot of questions regarding the right parameters to choose. I am having 0.5 mm diameter nozzle. What are the parameters that I am supposed to choose? The general parameters that I need to know are:
1. Extruder head speed (mm/s)
2. Layer thickness (mm.)
3. Road width (mm)
4. Filament feed rate (mm/s)
# Answer
> 3 votes
These parameters are not fixed. FDM printers are designed to work over a range speeds, feed rates, layer heights, extrusion temperatures, etc, depending on the type of print job and the filament type used. If you design a printer to work with fixed parameters, you are unlikely to get good results.
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Tags: fdm
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thread-10690 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10690 | Botched firmware upgrade - did I destroy the stepper drivers? | 2019-07-25T18:04:30.363 | # Question
Title: Botched firmware upgrade - did I destroy the stepper drivers?
I attempted upgrading my Ender 3 firmware to Marlin 1.1.9, and due to inability to find the directions about the Sanguino variant pin layout file, stupidly built with the "standard" (Arduino) file. Various stuff didn't work, and I figured out my mistake and rebuilt, but the extruder motor does not respond even after flashing back to the original firmware.
Did I destroy the stepper driver with incorrect pin mapping? (Aside: if so, why just the extruder and not the others?) Is this fixable or should I just order a new motherboard?
# Answer
> 2 votes
About 15 minutes after posting this, it started working again. Either the driver had badly overheated and recovered after cooling down, or was never messed up and the firmware was just refusing to operate it with the nozzle cold. For the latter possibility, the stock firmware never had that behavior before, but maybe it's possible that some saved configuration to ignore nozzle-cold got lost in the flashing?
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Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3, firmware, stepper-driver
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thread-4014 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4014 | What does Marlin's G30 code do? | 2017-05-08T20:42:26.763 | # Question
Title: What does Marlin's G30 code do?
I'm using Marlin 1.1.0RC8 to control an MPCNC, using a RAMPS1.4. We've just added a touch-plate to do Z-probing, which works nicely for a single probe (I just want calibrated height for variant bit-lengths, not bed-leveling, but I think it amounts to the same thing). I've set it up in Marlin as *FIX\_MOUNTED\_PROBE*, which seems closest.
I can make it do a `G38.2 Z-50`, `G92 Z12.6` (which sets Z to the height of the touch-plate, 12.6mm), which is ok to be going on with, but it seems I'm having to hard-code the Z offset, which I'm sure should really be set by eg `Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER` or `M851`.
My feeling was that I should be able to invoke a G-code `G30`, and it would do a nice fast-slow double tap, do the equivalent of a `G92 Z+zzz` to set that height and then withdraw to a safe height. And after a bit of config, it does exactly that...
... except it doesn't do anything with the height that it measured! Seems odd. The `G30` code seems to be an elaborate way to move the head up by the clearance amount, via a touch-plate (with the added excitement of being able to crash the bed if anything goes wrong)! What's the point?
Have I misunderstood what `G30` is meant to do? I've read the docs here, and traced through `Marlin_main.cpp` and there really is no "outcome". Unless I've missed something?
# Answer
I believe `G30` is a carry-over from CNC (G-code originated for CNC not printers) I believe it is for going to a secondary reference (home) position and includes an optional by-way-of address that can be included in the command.
Looking at Marlin 1.1.0-1 (latest release), it seems to do what you said:
1. Move to the requested position (if selected in command, else N/C)
2. Deploy probe
3. Go home
4. Stowe probe
5. Report the requested position and probed Z position
6. Report the current position (home?)
It appears that for Marlin, there is only one reference address (home); so, it would seem a `G30` would be the same as a `G28` (go to primary reference); but, not so.
It looks like `G28` is a home of a different color. It looks like it homes the axis one-at-a-time and does not support a by-way-of location. Note that you can select which axis to home by adding the letters 'X' 'Y' and/or 'Z' to the command.
I am not sure what benefit this command has for a 3D Printer other than allowing you to alter the printer's path to home.
Note: Unfortunately I do not have Marlin code up and running on my printer now so I cannot confirm what I am seeing in the code.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I’ve recently had a need to use Z-probe touch plate on my MPCNC + Ramps 1.4 + Marlin 1.1.5 setup.
Thought I’d share what ended up working for me.
In Marlin `Configuration.h`, I made the changes to enable Z-probe:
```
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
#define PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH
#define Z_MIN_POS -100
```
However, the following might be the key to your issue.
`G30` did not do anything for me as well, until I changed these values to 0. The `G30` now lowers Z until the Z probe is triggered. I needed to send a `G92` to set the new Z value.
Works like a champ!
```
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
```
In case you’re interested, in ultralcd.cpp under lcd\_prepare\_menu(), I added the a menu item to perform the probe. This way I don’t need a computer to setup the machine and launch a gcode file from the sd card.
```
#if HAS_BED_PROBE
MENU_ITEM(gcode, MSG_PROBE_Z, PSTR("G30\nG92 Z19.05"));
#endif
```
Hope this is helpful for you, even after a couple years late.
> 0 votes
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Tags: marlin, ramps-1.4, g-code, z-probe
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thread-3414 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3414 | What slicer settings would produce the strongest part? | 2017-01-17T11:39:53.883 | # Question
Title: What slicer settings would produce the strongest part?
If a part is wanted to be made the strongest possible, what slicer settings should be used?
* 3-5 shells vs all shells, no infill?
* 100% infill vs some other % infill?
* Thin layer height vs thick layer height?
* Any other relevant settings?
# Answer
If your real question is what would be the strongest then I say - the solid would be the strongest - no doubt.
But if the question is:
* what be the strongest in comparison to weight or
* what is the strongest in comparison to the cost (amount of material)
then these are good questions!
You can of course find many tutorials and comparisons on the net and there will be many answers - which all of them could be good/bad ;)
If these are your questions then instead of simple answer you can ask more questions like:
* in which orientation or
* for what purpose or
* for continues stress or maybe for variable stress or
* for bending forces / shearing forces or maybe tearing forces
all these forces and circumstances could require other answer... which could also lead to other questions :)
But according to my experience, the strongest settings (for general purpose) is 3 outlines (and the same number of first/last layers) and triangle infill 20-25 %
Why I think this is the strongest, 3 layers gives good chance to have well stickiness even if there are geometric/design issues and triangle infill gives good (and common) way to carry and spread forces.
But as I said it depends on many input data.
Let's look at these figures:
in figure A we have the strongest composition for compression; this is because all working forces try to damage material particles which is of course hard to do (depending on material density and length of polymers and the way they are tangled and so on - in general - material strength only).
If we consider figure B where forces try to tear apart layers then we know that we base on stickiness between layers which can vary on printing parameters (as is temperature and speed).
Finally, figure C shows shearing forces - in terms of layered structure it doesn't really differ from tearing apart but the results (the resistance of and object) is even weaker - it's because we base on stickiness and we additionally have less effective field of working stickiness) which reduces endurance of an object.
> 3 votes
# Answer
This question is practically unanswerable without the load case or the part being known.
Input for the "strongest" part is depending on:
* Load case (compression, tension, shear)
* Part design
* \# of perimeters
* Filament type
* Infill percentage (incl. local increased infill for e.g. fasteners; see e.g. "Different infill in the same part")
* Part orientation when slicing
* etc.
Do note that 100 % infill does not guarantee the strongest solution, from ahoeben:
> Final note: 100% infill is not always the strongest or best quality. If you overextrude by just a little bit, that will quickly add up with 100% infill. With a lower % of infill, the overextruded material has somewhere to go.
> There can also be issues with cooling with high amounts of infill; you are not only putting more material on the print, but also more heat. On the other hand printing a layer is going to take a long time, so there should be time to cool. But shrinking/warping while cooling is also something that is affected by the amount of material.
> 0 votes
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Tags: slicing, print-strength
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thread-3406 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3406 | Smooth transition between a PTFE tube and the back of a push-fit coupler | 2017-01-15T20:22:27.473 | # Question
Title: Smooth transition between a PTFE tube and the back of a push-fit coupler
I'm creating a reverse Bowden setup to guide my filament from spool to extruder, through a path which contains two couplers in the middle as follows:
`[spool] --- |#= --- =#| --- [extruder]`
So I have to connect a tube to the *back* of a coupler (`---=#|`) and not just to the front (`---|#=`). That's the end that contains the screw thread, and it's not designed to take a tube. I can't manage to make it a smooth transition. When I try to push my 1.75 mm filament through, it will often get stuck there. After it's through, the extruder seems to have no problem with it anymore.
Is there a trick to making this a smooth transition?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The solution might be to countersink the opening at the threaded portion within the tube. There are various angles available for countersinks, although the more common angles are 82 degrees and 90 degrees.
Drive the countersink to the point where the wall thickness is zero, unlike the drawing below showing some material outside the beveled area.
For your purposes, you'd want the steepest angle possible, the 60 degree tool. If you decided to purchase a countersink, pick a diameter slightly larger than the outside diameter of the wall thickness of the coupler. You could use a countersink of the same diameter as the outside diameter of the threads.
Center drills are available with 60 degree angles as well: Amazon specific item
The second smallest center drill listed here has a 1.5 mm center point with a 4 mm drill point. If your coupling is larger than 4 mm, the next size up will not work as well, as the center point is 2.5 mm. You'd have to resort to a countersink only.
If you are near a machine shop or have a friend with a mill or even a decent drill press, those resources may be able to perform the countersink for a minimal (or possibly zero) fee.
I have a mini-mill and a collection of countersinks as well as center drills. I found my bag of unused couplers. They are for 5 mm tubing and were flat on the threaded end. This is the result after a quick trip to the mill. It appears in the close up that I could have driven the center drill deeper into the fitting, and also cleaned off the swarf a bit as well.
# Answer
> 0 votes
An alternative to chamfering the connector is buying a different type of connectors with a larger bore hole all the way through the connector and let the tube pass all the way through. These are used in my similar spool to extruder setup (reversed Bowden setup in OP's terminology).
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Tags: bowden, ptfe-tube
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thread-3394 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3394 | How to straighten PTFE tubes? | 2017-01-13T19:24:03.443 | # Question
Title: How to straighten PTFE tubes?
PTFE tubes are typically delivered coiled up. And because they are quite stiff, they always want to spring back to their original curvy shape, making them harder to route properly.
Is there a way to straighten them out?
# Answer
I just plugged the ends of tube and soaked it in real warm water for 5 minutes then stretched it out on a table. That helped then the hard part I spooling it up against the arch and soaked it again. This seem to work the best.
> 4 votes
# Answer
You could use a hairdryer to introduce a spot-bend where you need it.
> 2 votes
# Answer
A colleague of me puts spring steel wires in the tubes and leaves the tubes on the central heating for a certain amount of time (probably hotter than 60 °C).
> 2 votes
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Tags: bowden, ptfe-tube
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thread-3314 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3314 | Skipping Y-steps, only when using Ultimaker Cura | 2017-01-04T10:58:42.497 | # Question
Title: Skipping Y-steps, only when using Ultimaker Cura
In order to find out why my printer sometimes skips Y-steps (always in the same direction) only in Ultimaker Cura, I am digging into the G-code to understand the problem better. However, thousands of lines of G-code are hard to analyze.
I am using a Mk2 heatbed with a glass sheet, and a NEMA17 motor in a P3Steel Toolson Edition printer. The axis feels reasonably easygoing in both directions.
Reducing the acceleration to 4000 did not get rid of the problem completely - it might have relieved the issue, though. I didn't do quantifiable tests, sorry.
Are there any other obvious things I might have missed? I know the acceleration might still be rather high, but since it works with Slic3r easily I would like to take advantage of some features in Ultimaker Cura with this printing speed.
# Answer
**You answered your own question in a comment.**
> Yes, of course, increasing the maximum supplied current to the motor gets rid of the issue. Still, I'd rather go with lower current to limit heating up the motors. I was just wondering if there is something in the two slicing engines that makes cura provoke much harsher movements that cause the printer to lose steps... – kamuro May 21 '17 at 21:22
**Motors are tough**
Motors are meant to be warm, some are made to be hot. Not all motors have the same specs, but I pulled one on Amazon (link) which shows a rated temperature rise of 60°C above a rated ambient temperature of 50°C. If these specifications stack, and they should because the insulation of the motor is rated to 130°C, you can boil water on the stepper motors.
**But ... other factors**
But, what are the real limits, and how much current should you run through the motors?
First, many 3D printers have plastic mounts for the stepper motors. You don't want that plastic to soften. It can if the motors get too hot. I've seen it in a commercial 2D printer, and gnashing of teeth across the Pacific ensued. Even for PLA, that temperature is uncomfortable to human flesh. I soften PLA at 75°C when fitting tight parts, but PETG and ABS are good for higher temperatures.
**Low current hurts accuracy**
Motors are remarkably linear converters of current to torque, but they still have non-linearities at the limits. This matters most when micro-stepping, which (AFAIK) all 3D printers use for higher resolution.
Two factors hurt accuracy at lower currents when micro-stepping.
Non-linearities in the drivers result in magnetic fields that do not linearly align with the commanded drive strength. The torque is not exactly what is needed to position the motor between the poles at the correct angle.
Static friction, sometimes called stiction, requires additional torque to overcome. In a slow micro-stepping move, this will result in the motion hanging back, then jumping ahead. Motion can be ragged rather than smooth. Extrusion can be pulsating rather than smooth.
Both are improved by applying enough current to the motor to generate enough torque. More current gives more heat, but also better behavior and performance.
**Power up the motors!**
They can take it. Check their mounts to be sure the mounts aren't underdesigned.
**Why Cura and not Slic3r?**
A deeply detailed review of the g-code would be needed. It could be as simple as the direction of infill, or the preferred direction of your model compared with the direction chosen by the two slicers.
It could be some limits coded into the "custom g-code" portion of the two slicers. I am not familiar with Cura, but Slic3r allows you to insert additional g-code under many situations. Something brought in with a printer profile may be limiting acceleration of jerk.
Could be differences in fan setting, or almost anything.
When you are dealing with a marginal situation, and it sounds like this is right on the edge, very small differences can cause dramatic changes in how the whole system responds. 3D printers are complex systems, with resonances, many vibration modes, non-linear friction. Knowing for sure may be beyond the scope of your and our engineering tools.
**Don't operate on the Margins**
Set the motors to the proper current levels. Set the bed to the proper height. Set the hot end to the right temperature. Try to always stay in the sweet spot. Your prints will reward you.
> 4 votes
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Tags: slicing, ultimaker-cura, slic3r, p3steel
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thread-10703 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10703 | Ender 3 under extrusion | 2019-07-26T19:48:51.463 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 under extrusion
I have a new Ender 3, it was printing fine using the Ultimaker Cura 4.1 slicer. I printed about 1/2 a roll of blue 1.75 mm filament through a 0.4 mm nozzle. All my prints were Ender 3 mods (plus one cover for a device I had).
Then it stopped printing 1/2 way through printing a bracket for the Y-axis to allow for a damper. After several days of under extruded parts that I aborted I discovered that the extruder motor was stopping intermittently and that turned out to be a bind in the motor. I replaced the motor, but it continued to under extrude. I replaced the stock extruder feed with Anpro Upgrade, MK8 Extruder Aluminum Alloy Block Bowden Extruder 1.75 mm Filament for Creality 3D. The same problem remained. I did the extruder test with 120 mm marked on the filament and only about 60 mm went through. By increasing the flow to 150 % I can print usable parts, but that seems like a bandaid covering up the real problem. Of course, I have cleaned the hotend, changed the nozzle and the feed tube. I have assumed that during the feed test of 100 mm you should preheat the nozzle before the gcode `G1 E100 F100` ; Extrude 100 mm at 100 mm a minute is issued. Is there any point in removing the nozzle or the feed tube and issuing this 100 mm/100 mm command?
I have ordered a new hot end, but I'm beginning to suspect the board itself is not feeding correctly. Help?
---
I removed the Bowden tube from the hot end and issued the 'G1 E100 F100\` and it feeds exactly 40 mm. Do I possibly have a second bad motor? I currently have no way of modifying the code on the board. Is there a factory reset for the Ender 3?
# Answer
> 3 votes
OK, I have my Ender 3 back to printing nice looking objects. It turns out at some point since the original bad E-stepper I must have pushed the "load settings" menu item. I set my E steps to 98 from 93. and then did a "save settings". I have no idea why going from 93 to 98.03 increased my extrusion from 40mm to 100mm (trial and error, because the formula said I needed to go to 232.5!). For those that don't know, the "save settings" stores the current settings in EEPROM. These setting override the factory configuration setting when you reboot. If while you are messing with setting and you lose track of things you can do a "load settings" to get your previous settings back to start again. The "initialize EEPROM" reloads the stored configuration settings including the settings that you saved. More intelligent explanation here:
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Tags: creality-ender-3, underextrusion
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thread-7037 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7037 | What are the advantages of gyroid infill? | 2018-10-01T12:21:30.383 | # Question
Title: What are the advantages of gyroid infill?
I've seen a few print time-lapse videos lately which use gyroid infill: wavy lines, which deform across layers so that the waves end up alternating between the two axes. Other than making the time-lapse videos look much cooler, what are the benefits of this infill style compared to the more common hatching or cross-hatching?
# Answer
From this reference you can read that:
> A gyroid is a naturally occurring structure which be found in butterfly wings and even within membranes inside cells. In 2017, MIT researchers discovered that when graphene was shaped into a gyroid structure, it had exceptional strength properties at low densities. They then discovered however, that the crucial aspect of this was actually the gyroid structure itself, and that other materials such as plastic could benefit from this.
It is assumed that this type of infill has better properties against failure than the normal types of infill we know.
A test conducted by an author named Martin is found here. He printed test specimen and subjected them to bending to test the resistance against shear stress.
From the figure can be concluded that the gyroid infill has a better resistance against bending for a lower weight.
The advantages of gyroid infill over the tested infill types are:
* high shear strength, and
* low weight (so less filament needed).
On top of these advantages Gyroid infill prints relatively fast with respect to some other infill types and is close to isotropic (i.e. uniform in all orientations), meaning that is very suitable for flexible prints.
> 35 votes
# Answer
0scar gave a great answer, but I wanted to add to it.
Stefan of CNC Kitchen does a lot of 3D printer technique testing. He covered the gyroid and other patterns. While there's a difference in filament used, the significant differences are **strength**`*` and **print speed**. Here's his 8-minute infill pattern testing video; some screenshots follow. I stopped printing honeycomb once this video came out. Perhaps I should switch to gyroid too.
`*` yes, I'm calling it "strength". Don't at me, physics and materials science peeps, I know it's inaccurate.
> 26 votes
# Answer
This answer builds on to both 0scar and tedder42's answer:
Martin's experiment was about shear strength, where as Stefan of CNC Kitchen's experiment was about compressive strength on 2 directions.
From their experiments, it is reasonable to conclude that gyroid does well on sheer strength, and above mediocre on compressive strength.
**Why use gyroid?**
1. If your print requires shear strength, use gyroid.
2. Else if your print requires compressive strength from transverse or both directions, use cubic.
3. Else if your print requires only perpendicular compressive strength, use triangle.
4. If your print infill naked, each pattern has its own beauty.
**See also:**
Martin's experiment (Note how he used a bottle of water to test different structures for their shear strength):
https://www.cartesiancreations.com.au/gyroid-infill-tests/
Stefan of CNC Kitchen's experiment (Note how he used his self-made machine to compress different structures):
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg
Examples of gyroid's aesthetics can be found in Matt's links:
https://mattshub.com/2018/03/15/gyroid-infill/
> 17 votes
# Answer
About a decade ago, we looked at the 'Gyroid infill structure' (which we called sheet solid). We looked at it as a linear-elastic solid and as possible bone scaffold design:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0142961211006776
What came out of that study that lots of the triply-periodic minimal surfaces (a broader class of structures that comprise the Gyroid) had interesting elastic moduli.
One thing that's worth noting though is that the Gyroid is not isotropic. Rather, it has cubic symmetry, ie 3 rather than 2 linear elastic constants. But it comes fairly close to isotropic
> 16 votes
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Tags: infill
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thread-10701 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10701 | How to estimate the printing time of a 3D printer from an STL file? | 2019-07-26T15:19:12.227 | # Question
Title: How to estimate the printing time of a 3D printer from an STL file?
My local library has a 3D printer (Lulzbot Mini) for patrons to use. The prints are limited to 4 hours and if I go after work I really only have two hours before the Library closes. The software at the Library will give an estimated time, but I would like to be able to estimate the time before I get there.
Currently I have been creating my designs in TinkerCad and then I export the STL file. From the STL file I can find online estimators that will tell me how much material but nothing that says how long it will take to print.
Is there a way of calculating the estimated printing time from a STL file for a given printer?
# Answer
There is no way to estimate the print time of an STL file directly.
The print time is based on the number of instructions in the g-code file plus the time it takes to move the effector (the hot end) around the build area. The only way to compute that is to know what settings their slicer is using and then slice your stl the way they will; and this is assuming that you have the same slicer software. If you manage to do that, then the slicer software will give you an estimate.
Here is what you would need to do:
1. Get access to the same slicing software, and obtain a copy of the profile that they use to slice with. The nozzle diameter, feed rate, layer height, and infill settings will affect the print time.
2. Import your stl into the sofware and "slice it" There will usually be a large button that is used to generate the g-code. There are quite a few slicers that will output the print time into the text of the g-code. They may also show the print time on the UI during slicing.
alternatively: Email the stl to the staff at the library, and them to generate an estimate for you. They might just do it.
However, that estimate could be incorrect. It will depend on the printer itself. As an example: the time it takes to heat the bed and the hot end is never included in the time estimate the slicer gives.
> 4 votes
# Answer
It is already established that is is possible to calculate the estimated print duration by this anwer.
The most accurate estimation is obtained with specific settings for the printer. So if you have access to the printer, your most accurate estimation would be using the software from the manufacturer or correctly setup third party software. Going to the library twice might work out as you have one day to tweak the print to get it done in 4 hours, the other day to print the file generated the day earlier. Note that there are also community solutions (cheaper than commercial printer services) available where you select the most nearby printer and let somebody else print it for you.
As an alternative (to try at home), if you navigate to the LulzBot website you can find a specific release for the LulzBot printers e.g. download here and use their released profiles (from this location) to slice your print using the material to print the object in. Note that these slicing parameter files are for the TAZ, the slicing parameters can be applied to the mini. Note that this will cause an inaccuracy for the print time, but will serve as a good start.
From their website you can read that:
> **How to Download and Use Print Profiles**
>
> To get printing right away, the default LulzBot TAZ print profiles listed below can be imported into Cura LulzBot Edition for ready-to-print settings. To download and save the configuration file, right click and select Save As. In order to use the print profiles below you will need to switch to the Full Settings view (Expert \> Switch to full settings). After downloading, import the Cura print profile by selecting, in Cura, File \> Open Profile. Navigate and select the pre-set Cura print profile file of choice.
> 2 votes
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Tags: stl, lulzbot
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thread-10673 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10673 | Printer keeps pausing during prints | 2019-07-24T09:28:07.863 | # Question
Title: Printer keeps pausing during prints
I'm having a rather strange issue in that the printer pauses randomly during prints. This was first noticed when printing a large and complicated model (from SD). Since then a 20 mm calibration cube has been printed (from USB) with no issues (paused briefly after printing the skirt), it was used in conjunction with `M92` G-code command to calibrate the stepper motors. Now i'm trying to print a temperature tower but it pauses multiple times even on the first layer (tried USB and SD). How do i ensure that the printer does not pause during prints?
Here's a link to a video of the printer pausing (trying to print a temperature tower).
Slicer details:
* Ultimaker Cura 4.0
* Also tried slic3r 1.3 32 bit
* The temperature tower had a change temperature at Z injected into the G-code but none of the others did.
Printer details:
* Anycubic S
* Firmware 1.1.2
* filament PLA+
* firmware reprap/marlin
# Answer
> 1 votes
I had a similar problem some time ago. The problem in my case was, that in the slicer I had a minimum layer time, which was pausing the printer until that time had passed. I can't remember the name of the settings and I'm not at home right now, but the slicer can either print full speed and pause or it can slow down, to maintain a minimum layer time. I guess the idea is to give the plastic time to cool down.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, troubleshooting, anycubic-i3-mega
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thread-10719 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10719 | Chalk objects: 3D Printed or Molds? | 2019-07-30T04:46:55.013 | # Question
Title: Chalk objects: 3D Printed or Molds?
I am thinking about making something from chalk. But can chalk be printed into shapes directly or is it better to shape it with printed molds? What kind of material would be suitable for a mold for the chalk so I can ensure the mold releases after the chalk solution cures?
# Answer
Chalk, as a ceramic substance, could be printed with a paste printer and if the substance can hold its shape during drying for a couple of hours.
It might be easier to use a flexible filament like TPE or TPU to print a mold in which the paste can cure slowly to a point it can be safely removed. These filaments make release easier as one can flex them away from the printed object.
Another option could be vapor smoothed ABS and a tapered shape so that the object has no undercuts and easy paths only. If one adds a pusher rod place, which is closed by a plug during casting the chalk and can remove from the back after casting, removal gets easier as air can flow in from the back through the removed plug. It can also be used to use a pen or similar obect to gently release the item with light taps.
> 1 votes
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Tags: molds
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thread-10724 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10724 | Getting started with converted STL to DXF | 2019-07-30T19:14:31.660 | # Question
Title: Getting started with converted STL to DXF
I converted the STL file through an online converter https://www.cadforum.cz/catalog\_en/stl2dwg.asp
(I work in the program autocad 2017) Now I open the resulting DXF and I don’t know how to work with it. How do I merge polygons into a whole model?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I figured it out. Need to go: Network -\> conversion to surface
Then we get a surface that is already easy to work with.
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Tags: 3d-models, stl
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