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thread-15979 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15979 | Purchasing a first 3D printer | 2021-03-30T15:25:29.243 | # Question
Title: Purchasing a first 3D printer
What is a good entry level 3D printer that you could use while earning to the next level printer?
I found there are so many kinds.
# Answer
# This is going to depend on your particular wants and needs.
Initial buy price is a big factor, obviously, but there are some other things to bear in mind:
### What are you going to use it for?
If you're going to use it for printing, say, RPG miniatures, you might want to focus on SLA/DLP (resin) printer because they can produce very good detail at small sizes. But entry level SLA/DLP printers tend to have very small print areas.
FDM (filament) printers tend to have larger print areas but they don't tend to be quite as accurate when it comes to reproducing small detail. They have more material choices available to them, though: PLA, ABS, and PETG are sort of the basic three materials that an entry level printer can probably handle.
### How much of a "tinkerer" are you?
Some printers are "open source" which means you are able to modify their firmware and/or hardware. For example, you might be able to upgrade the firmware and hot end of an FDM printer to allow you to print more exotic materials like nylon and PEEK.
That ability to tinker and modify your printer is great if that's the kind of thing you value. But it also means you might have to rely less on the manufacturer and more on the community if something goes wrong or you're unsure how to go about doing something with the printer.
### How much are you going to use it? / How much room do you have?
The cheapest printer in the world is still too expensive if you never use it. Plus, it takes up space. This is something you really have to keep in mind: printers need space. Even if the printer itself is small, you might need to buy an enclosure for it.
You probably need a workspace nearby to finish your printed parts. I think resin printers need a space to setup a UV curing lamp to fully cure the resin of the printed parts, for example. If you print more than one type of material with an FDM printer, you need a place to store those extra spools of material.
---
You should check out 3d printing sites like those below to read their reviews because they will offer insights into things that might not even cross your mind to consider:
> 1 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer
--- |
thread-15970 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15970 | What material best to use for press fit parts? | 2021-03-29T12:24:22.243 | # Question
Title: What material best to use for press fit parts?
I am designing some parts that should modular fit together. I am currently exploring a Lego-like design with octagonal holes and cylindrical pins.
I notice that (depending on the amount of clearance) that the fit is initially tight (to the extent that the pieces are very difficult to remove from each other), but that after a few dozen times connecting and disconnecting the parts the fit becomes very loose. I am currently using PLA. With what material would this occur less quickly/is more resistant to this kind of wear?
The sizes of the pins/holes are slightly bigger than Lego (probably similar to Duplo). Don't think that snap-fit would work in that size. Below of a picture of one of the test pieces (this one later printed in PETG).
I have an open printer so I prefer materials that don't require me to build an enclosure first. It is a Prusa i3 MK3S: Direct drive; 1.75 mm filament; max temp 300 °C; heat bed max temp 120 °C.
# Answer
A flexible material, such as PETG or ABS, is probably the best. PLA is brittle, especially after absorbing moisture, and probably would crack under continued use.
Nylon is good, but not easy to use. With PETG in an enclosure, I end up running fans to avoid heat creep; so PETG may actually do better without an enclosure.
If you're printing to flex your print, keep in mind the the x and y axes are stronger than the z-axis, which depends on how well the layers stick together. PETG tends to stick to the print surface too well; so I use an Elmer's glue stick for it to pull up the glue layer instead of damaging my print surface.
> 3 votes
# Answer
PLA and nylon deform over time under stress ("creep"), therefore they will get loose(r) and will snap less effectively together.
See what happens to clips after one day of stretching (respectively nylon, PLA, PETg, ABS):
And if you leave them unstretched, after a while:
PLA permanently deforms a lot. PETG is better than PLA, but ABS or ASA are the best choice for the purpose.
A material simply "flexible" is not necessarily the best choice.
> 4 votes
# Answer
If you're aiming for a Lego-like snap fit, look at Lego parts to see how they work. Using the right material is important, but using it the right way is at least as important. Lego bricks are made so that the walls and tubes can deform very slightly as the studs of another brick are pushed into the brick.
The walls of the octagonal holes in your part appear to be solid. Perhaps they're not really, and underneath the surface layer there's a lesser amount of infill, but infill can provide a lot of strength, and that solid surface will prevent deformation at the entrance of the hole.
Try removing the solid bottom layers and reducing or eliminating the infill in the part so that the walls of your holes can flex more.
> 3 votes
# Answer
PETG, ABS and NYLON would work great for press-fit or snap-fit connections. If you really can't build a (cardboard) enclosure I would go for PETG as it has good repeatable mechanical properties and does not require an enclosure.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: filament-choice, press-fit
--- |
thread-15987 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15987 | How to change pin of thermo sensor? | 2021-03-31T16:17:25.717 | # Question
Title: How to change pin of thermo sensor?
The thermoresistor on my Anycubic Mega displays nonsense temperatures (e.g. 700 °C), since the resistor in the hotend is working fine the problem is 100 % in the board (Trigorilla RAMPS 1.4). Someone suggested switching the pin of the thermoresistor from `T0` to `T1`, so I soldered it this way. Now I have to cook a personalized firmware for making it work. I opened a custom firmware in VSCode but I do not know what parameter I have to change, any idea?
# Answer
> 2 votes
If there are 2 slots for temperature measurements, you don't need to solder anything, just plug the thermistor from one into the other and switch pins in the firmware. This board is basically a RAMPS 1.4 board, it includes the `pins_RAMPS.h` header file, so in order to switch the T0 with the T1 temperature port, you need to change:
```
//
// Temperature Sensors
//
#ifndef TEMP_0_PIN
#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // Analog Input
#endif
#ifndef TEMP_1_PIN
#define TEMP_1_PIN 15 // Analog Input
#endif
```
to:
```
//
// Temperature Sensors
//
#ifndef TEMP_0_PIN
#define TEMP_0_PIN 15 // Analog Input
#endif
#ifndef TEMP_1_PIN
#define TEMP_1_PIN 13 // Analog Input
#endif
```
---
Tags: firmware, ramps-1.4, anycubic-i3-mega
--- |
thread-15891 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15891 | Options for removing failed prints | 2021-03-18T02:02:33.790 | # Question
Title: Options for removing failed prints
So basically I've been having a problem with my Micro+. It will not level / calibrate itself and I can't fix it. The reason I'm here is that I've been using Cura, and somehow it destroyed my bed. (See image)
I would like to know how to get it off, as I tried freezing, scraping and sandpaper
---
To clarify some things:
* The material is PLA,
* bed is made of plastic.
My build plate surface got destroyed after trying to use Cura, which sliced wrong and engraved the print into my bed.
# Answer
Once a time, it was the same with me, I sanded the surface well and continued for a while without any problems. The only problem was the sand pattern that was always visible in the bottom of models and finally I upgraded the bed to PEI sheet.
> 2 votes
# Answer
If you have tried every trick to remove the print, you probably need to replace the build surface. If the PLA is "engraved" into the build surface, your surface is damaged anyways, just replace the surface, or remove the top surface and buy a sheet of glass, preferably borosilicate.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Print a filled square 2 layers thick over the whole surface of the bed and then peel off when it's still warm, so that it may take away also the previous deposits.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You can try putting it in the oven at 100 °C and then peeling it off. At that temperature it's soft as cheese.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: bed, m3d
--- |
thread-15988 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15988 | 3D print a paint roller | 2021-03-31T18:31:55.663 | # Question
Title: 3D print a paint roller
I was thinking about this question and thought of maybe printing a pattern-drawing roller painter.
The question is: is it possible to print with an ink absorbing material that could make a paint roller possible?
P.S: I don't own a 3D printer, nor have I any deep knowledge in this matter. I simply want to know if this is feasible, so I can start looking for someone to 3D print this for me. If it's not, knowing beforehand could spare me a lot of time.
# Answer
> 3 votes
While printing a *roller stamp* or rubber-roll from a flexible material such as \[hard\]TPU, \[softer\] TPE, or even a \[super soft\] foaming flexible filament is certainly possible. In any case, this would create soft, somewhat squishy prints. These prints will work quite easily as a stamp or woodblock printing stock, transferring ink from a pad to paper. The print pattern will depend a lot on how soft the stamp is: the harder, the sharper it will print. A massive roll of this material can behave akin to a rubber roll as one uses it in linoleum printing.
A foaming filament might be able to take *a little* paint in its airgaps, but it will never be as soft and contain as much paint as a foam lacquer roll - making it at best an improvised tool, or one that is chosen for a specific artistic purpose. It behaves more akin to closed-cell foam, while foam brushes and rolls from artist supply are typically open-cell ones. So if you go for a roller-stamp, you'll need to have an ink reservoir in the shape of a soaky-roller that isn't printed.
To top it off, it is nearly impossible to print a hairy wall painting roller: the hairs used in them can't be achieved with common print materials and slicers at the time. Even if stringing creates hair of *similar* dimensions, they are not affixed well enough to not get lost in the paint and can't be reliably created on demand.
Notes on pricing: One of the few options for foaming print materials is colorFabb, who was the first to offer such. Most of their foaming filaments cost around 50 €/kg, their flexible NinjaFlex costs about 80 €/kg.
# Answer
> 1 votes
## Not really.
It's possible to 3D print in materials like TPE that are rubbery. In theory, one could print a sheet of the pattern and then wrap that sheet around a roller. That would be expensive, though, and I doubt TPE would absorb enough paint/ink to lay down an good and even coat.
As pointed out in the comments,there is one of foaming TPU filament (Varioshore TPU that might be able to achieve the kind of soft, spongy feel that a paint roller would need but it's expensive and, I suspect, soft but not particularly absorbent in the way you would need.
I have no direct experience with it, though, so I can't say for sure. For the price and amount of time that would be required to get a print roller produced the way you need, I think you'd be better off buying a custom pattern roller/brayer or making one yourself.
I imagine you could achieve this by getting a sheet of stamp pad foam and plotting it with a CNC cutter (or cutting it by hand) and then taping/gluing it around a tube.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It might be possible to directly print something like this, however it might not be the easiest method. Let me unpack that a bit.
The issue for 3D printed foams is that, even the low density foams, such as the ones from ColorFabb, still are fairly high density on the scale of foams. (they are about 50% as dense as solid filament when expanded. They are also great materials, side note, just not for this application) They are also what is called "closed cell" which means, while they have hollow spaces inside them, those spaces are closed off from each other. This makes them not very useful for things like holding paint, because the effective surface area is not substantially different from a solid part.
There are alternatives, materials out there which print solid but contain a fraction of soluble material. So you print, and then post process to dissolve away those elements, resulting in a high-porosity filament. Something like Poro-lay might work. (you can find it for purchase HERE)
There might be an easier path here though, and that would be to use 3D printing as an intermediate step. 3D print the design of the roller you want, and use it as a mouldmaster. Pour a silicone or urethane mould material over it, making yourself a mould into which you can then cast any of a wide variety of different rubber or foam materials to make your roller. 3D printing as an intermediate step, rather than end-use-part, is very very powerful in that way.
With all of this, chemical compatibility between your paint and end material should be kept in mind. Some paints contain solvents which will attack various foams, plastics, etc.
Finally, while this is digressing from the realm of 3D printing, there is one more solution I might consider exploring. A C02 laser will cut, or engrave, the felt on most paint rollers. If you can find someone with a rotary axis who is willing, they can simply cut/engrave the felt/foam of a factory paint roller into whatever pattern you like. (this is how the CUSTOM RUBBER ROLLERS linked in @Rykara's post were made) It wouldn't actually be terribly difficult, however you'd probably want to experiment on a couple different rollers to ensure the effect is what you want.
I hope that helps. :)
# Answer
> -2 votes
I'm relatively new to 3D printing, but I know some stuff. If you really wanted to print a paint roller with a pattern, I would actually go with nylon or TPR. TPE is okay, but I find that it is less cushy. I would highly suggest buying your own printer for this project. It would be much more cost effective in not only the long run, but for testing different materials. 3D printing services get pricey, so choose your printer wisely. If you do decide to buy your own printer, I would go with an Ender 3 pro. Mine is very smooth, and has an easy-to-use interface.
---
Tags: print-material
--- |
thread-15990 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15990 | Problems with elephant's foot | 2021-03-31T20:51:09.077 | # Question
Title: Problems with elephant's foot
I recently got an Ender 3 Pro for my birthday, and I am having some problems with elephant's foot (as the title suggests). I have tried several fixes; lowering the print speed, changing the print micron size (quality) in my slicer, and I have also tried the masking tape trick (it definitely does not work). I want to know if there are any other ways to prevent elephant's foot on my prints. I first noticed it on a game-cartridge holder. It was four and a half millimeters thick on the bottom. I think that it could be an issue with the design, but I'm not entirely sure. I can send the specs for the design if you want to look at them.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Elephant's foot can be caused by different causes.
* Incorrect leveling or incorrect nozzle to bed distance
This answer describes that it can be caused by a too low nozzle to bed distance.
* Bed temperature
A too high bed temperature and weight of the print can cause bulging out of the bottom layers. This also frequently occurs as the result of an uncooled/too less cooled first layer.
Improved cooling, lowering bed temperature or adjusting nozzle to bed distance and proper leveling are the most obvious solutions to fight this problem. Other solution can be found in using chamfers on the bottom of the print (requires modifying the model) or printing on a raft, this latter solution does lead to losing the nice bottom layer finish.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Elephant foot on an FDM machine is typically caused by more material (filament) being present in that layer than it has space for.
The most common cause of this is your z-zero is too low, so for the first layer the nozzle starts too close to the bed and the filament gets "squeezed" laterally. You can try adjusting your z-zero or z-stop to allow slightly more space, fractions of a millimeter, between the nozzle and bed for your first layer.
If you don't want to try that, or you'd like to try a different solution first, consider printing the part on a raft so that it starts raised up off the bed and away from that elephant-footing.
There are a handful of other potential causes and factors which can make this better or worse, things like having a large footprint on the bed, but I hope the above is a quick and easy place to start.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If bed temperature is the cause, but you need that temperature for the first layer to stick, Use that bed temperature for the firsts layer, then set the bed temperature lower for subsequent layers.
---
Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-8439 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8439 | Ender 3 severe under-extrusion | 2019-03-10T18:38:49.920 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 severe under-extrusion
I've been using my Ender 3 for about four months now and it's been working wonderfully. The print quality is amazing and all the prints are very strong. Then about three weeks ago, my entire system crashed while Ultimaker Cura was open and it lost the profile for my 3D printer. I recreated the profile to the best of my ability with other people's working profiles online, but none of them worked right. I've been getting severe under extrusion in all my prints, and they're incredibly fragile. For now, I've just been printing a 1"x1"x1" test cube. I've tried many steps from other people's posts online to fix the problem, including:
1. Raising the print temperature for PLA to 200 °C.
2. Checking the extruder for signs of too little tension or too much tension. I checked, and the PLA has light tooth imprints on it, and no grinding or damage to the filament.
3. Clearing out the extruder. I disassembled the whole extruder assemble, and flushed all the plastic from each part with a heat gun, and metal pick, and then tried reprinting, but it didn't work.
4. Trying a newer Ultimaker Cura version. At the time, I was using Ultimaker Cura 3.1 and hadn't updated because it was working well. I then tried the newest stable release of Ultimaker Cura 3.6, with a few different profiles, and then I also tried the beta version of Ultimaker Cura 4.0, but none of these worked.
5. Increasing the extrusion rate. I incrementally increased the extrusion rate from 100 % all the way up to 130 %. The prints looked a little better and were a lot stronger, but this still didn't fix it.
6. Trying a different slicer. I then downloaded Slic3r and created a new profile in that. The prints turned out a lot better, but there was still significant under extruding.
7. Checking the filament tube for any burns or damage, and ensuring it's inside the extruder assembly all the way.
If anyone can help me figure out what's going on with my printer, I'd really appreciate it!
Here are some pictures of the prints I've been getting: These were made in Ultimaker Cura with different small changes to the profile made
These were made in slic3r with a flow rate adjusted up to 130%
These were prints I made before I lost all my settings in Ultimaker Cura.
Here's some of the material I read/watched and checked before posting myself:
Edit: Here's my printer profile: Ender 3 Profile Google Drive
# Answer
> 6 votes
It is not too rare to create a new machine in Ultimaker Cura to be set to 2.85 mm as this is the default. Also some bugs in the past did reset or assume this diameter unless you manually set it, and unless we know your exact version we can't confirm it is really this.
## Underextrusion why?
The 0.55 mm more radius result in an underextrusion due to the pressed through volume, and since $V=A\times l$, we need to see the area to see how severe the underextrusion is for one given extruded length. $A\_{1.75}=2.405\text{ mm²}$ and $A\_{2.85}=6.379\text{ mm²}$ are rather obvious, so $\frac {\text{real extrusion diameter}} {\text{calculated extrusion diameter}}=\frac{A\_{1.75}}{A\_{2.85}}=37.7\ \\%$, so only about 40 % of the needed filament is pressed through the nozzle as the slicer thinks it is almost twice the diameter. This matches well with the 130% still being very spotty, as that'd need a much higher factor to compensate for the underextrusion. A compensating extrusion multiplier would be $\frac 1 {0.377}=265.25\ \\%$.
## Fixing
To fix this, check under filament and set it to 1.75 mm so you force the correct diameter. Remember that filament diameter is **not** saved in the *printer profile* but in the *material database*.
You might need to restart Ultimaker Cura to activate these new settings.
# Answer
> 1 votes
My Man, The Ender 3 Marlin firmware saves your E-Steps on the SD Card and you basically have to check the E-Steps every startup because the Firmware sets back the E-Steps Value every shutdown to the minimum 93. Thats a known issue of the Enders and still on the Mk.3 aka Ender 3v2 present. It's an easy fix.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The following saved me from under extrusion on Ender 3 Pro.
1. Check the diameter of the material referenced and the nozzle parameter in your slicer (Cura, ...). Then re-slice.
2. If not sufficient, it may be a printer parameter issue. The extruder parameter is missconfigured: the stepper to filameter distance ratio is not correct and as a result, it does not feed the requested length of filament. To fix the printer parameter, send the following gcode sequence (use a G-code console like "GCode Sender - Pronterface"). We will follow this procedure:
* ask to feed 100 mm of filament
* mesure the actual length feeded
* read the parameter inside the printer
* write correct value.
G-code:
```
M83 ; set to extruder relative mode
; Be ready to mesure how much filament will really be consumed
G1 E100 F100 ; request 100 mm of filament
; Let "L" be the length in mm you mesured
; Now read the extruder related value in the printer
M503 ; and let "V" be the last number at line "echo: M92"
; Then set the correct value
M92 E{V*100/L}; Eg "M92 E222"
M500 ; write to memory
```
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, slic3r, creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-6522 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6522 | Different infill in the same part | 2018-08-01T05:50:15.653 | # Question
Title: Different infill in the same part
I´ve have read an article to change different pattern depending on amount of layers, but my question is if is possible to have different infill in the same part? For example:
* Base: has the infill of 25 % but the same base has some tabs for screws and mount the part for this area the infill need to be 40 % or greater.
* The walls and forms: this has the same of the whole part and can be filled at 25 % but some areas need to be filled at 15 % or less.
Probably someone has seen or reviewed another software to achieve this, or I'm fooling myself.
# Answer
This answer explains that you can have different infill within the same part. Firstly the implementation in **Ultimaker Cura** is described, secondly how you can do this in **Slic3r**.
---
## Ultimaker Cura
I've used a feature in **Ultimaker Cura** that can be used to alter the infill density locally. What you need to do is load your model into Cura, then load other objects (models) at the size of the area/volume you want your infill differently and position those at the position you want a different infill. Alternatively, you can add support blocker cubes that can be used as well. So basically, you use other models to intersect with your primary model to create intersections that can take a different infill percentage (please note that you can alter even more options, as long as you add these to the intersecting volume). This is extremely useful for lugs and brackets where you need some extra infill (e.g. extra stiffness for compression stresses) at the fastener holes. Note that this is an advanced feature which is not easy to use, but quite handy if you master it.
I could not find the video (*on second thoughts, I think it was animated GIF*) posted by Team Ultimaker, so I quote a section of one of their forum topics.
A short how-to: (italic font is not in the reference, but added to reflect recent version of Cura)
> * Unselect "keep models apart" *(now called: "Ensure models are kept apart")* and "drop models to build plate" *(now called: "Automatically drop models to the build plate")* in Cura preferences
> * Import a second object (for example a simple cube)
> * Put Cura in "custom mode"
> * Select the cube, and use the button "per object settings" on the left side
> * Select "Infill Mesh" *(now called: "Modify settings for infill of other models")* and enable that setting
> * The cube now turns transparent gray.
> * Position the cube to overlap part of your model. It should overlap with the section that you want to change the infill for.
> * Also with "per object settings" *(now called: "Per model settings")* select the option "infill density"
> * Set it to the desired value. All is more or less illustrated in the screenshot below
> * The picture shows a cube on the buildplate with infill 20 %. Locally, with a rotated 2nd cube, the infill % is raised to 100 %.
> * What happens is that the volume where the cube intersects with your object is locally sliced with different infill.
Please find below another example of a simple bracket that has extra cylindrical objects loaded to create the intersections with the bracket at the fastener holes. In the example, the infill at the fastener holes is set to 99 %.
>
After slicing, you will see that the infill at the intersections is adjusted accordingly.
>
**Note:** I've tested this in Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1, and confirm it works. I sliced a part with the inserts for fasteners and it actually is not very difficult, it just requires a little more work. You will have to make some STL's of cylinders and position them correctly. If you make your own 3D models it will be a very easy task to add extra components while you design, positioning will be a lot more easy then (as they align with your model). An example is the following linear Z rod bracket of a Hypercube Evolution CoreXY printer, this bracket requires local reinforcements for the bolts clamping the bracket onto the aluminum extrusion profile:
Inserts are modeled together with the development of the bracket:
When combined, it looks like this:
Now the infill can be modified locally to 100 % to increase compression strength.
Note that this will also work if you want a different infill percentage at the first X layers, just use a large cube (larger than the model) and position it correctly. Note that Cura already has an option called "Gradual Infill Steps" to adjust the density at the top layers.
---
## Slic3r
This reference describes how to do this for **Slic3r** in detail.
The blog describes the use of a simple volume (the green volume loaded from an STL file). After loading:
> Right-clicking on the main part brought up the object settings menu. From there, clicking "Load Modifier" and selecting the previously saved model adds it to the part as a modifier.
>
> The green "+" was selected and "Fill Density" was added to modifier list and set to 100 %.
This shows that the functionality in Slic3r is very similar to the functionality in Ultimaker Cura.
> 37 votes
# Answer
I don't particularly recommend the following, but it may be easier than 0scar's answer (which I would recommend implementing if you use Cura).
Slice your object twice, once at the lower infill and once at the higher infil. Then open both gcode files in a text editor and replace all per-layer code in one file with the code from the same layers in the other file. This certainly takes some care to ensure no bugs fall in, and you'll want to know the exact layers at which to change infill. Further, this only changes density on a per-layer basis, not on an X-Y region basis.
> 10 votes
# Answer
While you definitely can do this with custom slicing settings, if the "infill" is a design constraint necessary for the part to properly function, I prefer making it a part of the design rather than leaving it as something you can mess up at slicing time. This is particularly important if you will be sharing the design for use by others or using a 3D printing service that might not give you sufficient control over the slicing parameters. Moreover, when you say you want "higher infill" in particular parts, this is often an imprecise way of conveying what you really need, which is *particular infill structure* \- usually additional walls - not just a denser version of the infill pattern.
To use your example of points that need to accept screws (either drilled/tapped after printing, or with printed threads), just having denser infill in that part of the print won't help unless it's 100%; drilling into infill pattern will not give you something solid that a screw can thread securely into.
What I do for things like this is create internal gaps in the model, narrower than the minimum clearance needed to avoid walls bonding to each other. For example, cutting out concentric cylindrical surfaces can make a great solid region to thread a screw into. As noted by Trish in a comment, 0.05 mm seems to be a good choice of gap width that's below the clearance needed for FDM printers to avoid bonding, but large enough not to get removed by slicing tools.
If you want to ensure the model is still logically one connected component, leave some gaps in the cut, something like:
There's a lot of room for experimentation with exactly what kind of gaps work best. As Trish suggested, varying the location of bridges between layers may help. Adjusting spacing based on expected extrusion line widths may also be a good idea. One approach i've used in strengthening bolts, that might also work for threaded holes, is repeating the inner and outer thread profiles as a gap in the model. Here's an example cut to show the gap:
This particular reinforcement is mitigating the fact that roofing above infill is only supported by the infill, and thereby is able to sag slightly, preventing the layers from bonding as strongly and preventing the threaded walls from bonding strongly to the head.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Yes, it's possible, and not just limited to Cura. If you use GrabCAD Print (for Stratasys printers), the *Advanced FDM* feature allows different infill in different regions of your part - not based on layers, but based on your CAD geometry. Because of this, you have to start the process in CAD, by creating a part with multiple bodies. (For example, in Solidworks, you do this by turning off "merge" when you add a second boss, or by making a cut from a sketch and turning on "keep both parts".)
Once you've done this, go into the *Advanced FDM* tab in GrabCAD Print, and add your CAD part (the CAD file itself, not an STL). The two or more bodies in your part will be shown separately in the project panel: select them all and choose "merge". Now they will all be printed as a single part, but you can select each one and give them different infill settings.
You can also select any CAD face (i.e. not individual triangles) and override its wall thickness.
You can read a full tutorial about Advanced FDM on the GrabCAD website.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Using Cura 4.8
5% infill
This is the **Support Blocker** button:
Drop anywhere on bed, then resize and move like any model, make sure to turn off uniform scaling
With support blocker selected, then click the **Mesh Type** button:
* Modify settings for overlaps
* Select settings
* Type infill in the search
* Select infill density
Infill density has now been changed to 100% for selected part only.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: slicing, infill
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thread-16009 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16009 | Could anyone please provode me settings for Custom FFF for Zonestar Z6FB printer | 2021-04-02T10:01:41.570 | # Question
Title: Could anyone please provode me settings for Custom FFF for Zonestar Z6FB printer
Recently I bought a printer and failed to find Cura 4.8 settings for it (both in application both myself). My printer Zonestar Z6FB
Currently I doubt in:
1. G-code flavor
2. All printhead settings excluding extruder number (which is obviously 1 in my case)
3. Start/End G-code
Add printer image to eye trap someone who also interested
# Answer
After some pain, I figured out that if you are a poor Ubuntu/Linux user you should only use the AppImage version of Cura which you can download from official website
Next, make the file you downloaded executable `chmod +x *.AppImage`
Next, start it from terminal or by clicking in navigator
Ok, proceed as is and then **Help****Show Configuration Folder**.
It will show 2 folders we need `~/.local/share/cura/4.8`
Ok now download `ZONESTAR_Cura_Resources.zip` from here.
Then copy all files from ZONESTAR\_Cura\_Resources TO `~/.local/share/cura/4.8` but remember that directory structure is messed up but can be figured out.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-16013 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16013 | How to convert .obj file to .stl so I can slice to G-code? | 2021-04-02T17:58:47.210 | # Question
Title: How to convert .obj file to .stl so I can slice to G-code?
I am a beginning maker using an Ender 3. Someone sent me a .obj file from Thingiverse to print for them. I use an online slicer called IceSL as a slicer.
As experts on here know, I cannot use my slicer to slice .obj to G-code. How do I convert this .obj file to a .stl file so I can slice and then print it?
# Answer
> 2 votes
One can import an OBJ file into free program Meshmixer, then export it to STL format. There are other programs that are free and paid (such as Fusion 360) that will perform similar tasks.
As noted by user agarza, Prusa Slicer will import an OBJ and will also export to STL format. PrusaSlicer is also free.
---
Tags: slicing
--- |
thread-16019 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16019 | What to do if filament spool won't fit in 3D printer | 2021-04-03T10:50:48.707 | # Question
Title: What to do if filament spool won't fit in 3D printer
My sample filament has just ran out. Luckilly, I've already bought more filament. The only problem I have is that the spool for the new filament won't fit inside my 3D printer. The filament itself works with my printer; it's just the spool that is the problem. Does anyone have any solutions for what to do if a filament spool won't fit in your 3D printer? For reference, I have the FlashForge Adventurer 3.
# Answer
> 7 votes
A spool does not need to be inside a printer. Or on. Or even next to.
My Ender 3 pulls his filament in from the rack above it, my TronXY X1 pulls it from about 80 cm to the left of it, where it hangs from a shelf.
When making a solution that pulls in filament from afar, it is necessary to make sure the path is unobstructed and works for the whole movement range of the printer without getting bent sharply, as that can snap or kink the filament.
In the case of the small printer you have, leave open or remove the door to the filament chamber and make sure to place the spool holder so it drags in the filament straight. There are even spool holders designed specifically for this printer.
There are many designs of spool holders out there, many of them free and with minimal assembly.
## RE-spooling
Some printers, especially ones that only take marked rolls, might need their spool cores re-filled. In that case, you need to take utmost care: re-filling a spool needs to be without any twist to the filament or you risk entangling, and you need to make sure to not kink or bend the filament in doing so, or risk breaking at those spots.
Due to the risks involved, this should be avoided whenever possible!
---
Tags: troubleshooting, filament, flashforge-adventurer-3, change-filament
--- |
thread-16022 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16022 | 3D print retouch with soldering iron | 2021-04-03T12:46:30.550 | # Question
Title: 3D print retouch with soldering iron
Does anyone have any information about using a soldering iron to fix and retouch 3D prints? On the market, for example, we can find Modifi3D pen. Why has nobody created a simple soldering tip for this use?
I have a TS100 soldering iron which has great temperature control and I think it would be perfect for this use.
Does anyone think it's a bad idea?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I have used a standard soldering iron to modify and fix 3D prints in the past. You have to keep some things in mind when doing so:
* Don't overheat your material. PLA can take a soldering iron of about 230 °C before charring.
* Don't use a tip with solder, or you will get grey deposits in the plastic.
* Round tips or flat tips both work fine, but you want to not dump *too* much heat into the model or you start to deform the print as it needs to cool again.
* Using snippets from the end of the spool for soldering is a good way to recycle the "waste".
# Answer
> 1 votes
Cutting materials with a 'hot knife' isn't anything new. There should be a fairly established toolset for working foam. For 3D prints, I prefer to add coatings rather than modify surfaces with a hand held tool after. I do run a drill bit through printed holes though.
---
Tags: post-processing
--- |
thread-16016 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16016 | G-code wait for extrude command to finish | 2021-04-03T07:46:59.000 | # Question
Title: G-code wait for extrude command to finish
I have following G-code to prime the nozzle before start of the print.
```
G28 ; home all axes
G0 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
G0 X30; move to X30
G28 Y; home Y
M420 S1; turn on bed leveling
M109 S220; wait for hotend temperature
G1 E20 F1800; extrude filament 20mm
```
The idea is to extrude a strand of filament outside of the bed and then start the print. The strand catches on the bed a tears off. So the ooze does not mess up the first layer.
The problem is that the `G1 E20 F1800` does not wait for the move to finish and the controller goes to next move immediately. This means the nozzle is going to start the first layer, while spewing filament along the way.
Is there a way to wait for the move to finish?
I have tried `M400` which seems not to help. I'm using Marlin Firmware.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Are you sure the move didn't finish? That would be very unusual, not the way 3D printer firmware normally operates. A new `G0`/`G1` move command does not execute until the previous one finishes, whether it's extrude-only, travel-only, or a print move (mix of extrusion and travel).
What's probably happening for you is that the amount of material you're trying to extrude cannot melt and pass through the extruder at the speed you requested. At 1800 mm/min, assuming 1.75 mm diameter filament, you're requesting over 72 mm³ of material (nearly a whole cubic centimeter!) of material to be extruded per second. According to some back-of-the-envelope calculations I just did, It would take more than 300 Watts to continuously raise PLA from room temperature to extrusion temperature at that rate, which is not happening without an **extreme** hotend and power supply.
So, what you're getting is pressure building up between the extruder gear and the hotend (until it starts slipping), causing the material to continue to ooze for some time after the E-axis move finishes, until all the pressure subsides. If your goal is to prime the nozzle for printing, this is not how to do it. It will just end up oozing material all over the start of your print.
You can somewhat fix this by just reducing the feedrate in your command, but that's still not necessarily going to give you great results. The right way to prime is to extrude at nearly the maximum **rate your hotend can handle**, then **retract and wipe** before traveling to where the print will begin.
---
Tags: marlin, g-code
--- |
thread-16017 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16017 | First layer Z-offset in G-code | 2021-04-03T08:45:19.673 | # Question
Title: First layer Z-offset in G-code
In slicer G-code is it possible to set the probe Z offset for the first layer only?
For my stock E3 plate I find -4.125 mm best however for glass I need to go to -4.175 mm for the first layer to get better adhesion. So it's a manual process every time. Any way to tell the slicer do the first layer at -4.175 mm and next ones at -4.125 mm?
# Answer
> 3 votes
I don't understand the reasoning behind a first layer having a different offset from the following layers, but, You can manually add a re-definition of the current height after the first layer, suppose your first layer is 0.2 mm, you just need to tell the printer to move to a slightly higher next layer to redefine this as a different Z-offset.
* From a G-code file find the start of the second layer:
`G0 F600 X141.541 Y109.467 Z0.37`
* Modify this to:
`G0 F600 X141.541 Y109.467 Z0.42`
* Now insert the following command:
`G92 X0.37`
Now it is like you have changed the Z-offset.
The reason for not using `M206` is that is applied onto current offsets, if you accidentally save setting to memory after printing, it stores this offset. You can use `M206`, but use it carefully. A re-definition of the Z level is never stored, the next `G28` erases the effect, so does repowering the motors.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Trying to change the Z level (NOT the offset) during a print isn't a good idea UNLESS you know that all future moves will be "relative".
The `M206` (if you use Marlin) is the right way to set it! Depending on the slicer, just create TWO "different" printer definitions and add them to the startup G-codes.
If you don't save it, a reset will return the z-offset to the "saved" value. Or consider resetting to a "standard" value in the ending G-code.
Also, consider using "baby-stepping" (if you can), and manually adjusting things at the start of a print with a different surface.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, g-code, bltouch, z-probe
--- |
thread-16005 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16005 | Ender 3 - Tiny strings in print | 2021-04-01T22:55:37.127 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 - Tiny strings in print
Suddenly my prints start having small strings and I'm not sure what to do to eliminate them.
I have already tried to clean the filament tube, cleaned up the nozzle, and played with various retraction settings. Nothing seems to work and I still see these small strings.
Any idea how I can eliminate it?
# Answer
> 3 votes
These artifacts can be either moisture, as explored by this answer or problems with temperature/speed control or the Z-Axis:
If the temperature is not hot enough, the filament might not get melted enough to squish down to the next layer nicely at the speed the head moves at, resulting in the cooling filament getting dragged behind the printhead and forming a line in the air. Due to such errors I generally tend to print PLA more in the upper temperatures than where it barely liquifies.
This also can happen if the printhead is not on the right Z-height and the gap is larger than expected. Usually, this happens only at the lowest layer when you are unlevel (bad bed adhesion is the result), but if you bump the printer or it hooks on something, during Z-travel, it can result in such a mechanical problem. Other reasons that show the same pattern are uneven Z-Axis movement. For example, a loose gantry or a defective Z-rod can lead to it, as could bad firmware or a worn-out motor that *lost* a coil or two.
# Answer
> 3 votes
What you're seeing does not look like *stringing*, which I would characterize as material that exited the nozzle after extrusion was supposed to have stopped, usually due to missing or insufficient retraction, but like the extrusions along the concave contours *failed to bond* to the previous layer and got drawn across to a point on the other side of the contour where some degree of adhesion resumed. This happens when the lateral acceleration force of going around the curve overcomes the bonding of the new material to the existing material it's being laid down against, and in my experience it's always the result of **moisture-contaminated filament**. This matches your description of the problem has something that "suddenly" started happening.
To fix it, dry your filament. If your bed is big enough, the easiest way to do this is to lay the whole spool on the heated bed covered by a cardboard filament box with one side cut out to make a heat chamber, and running the bed heater at around 60-70°C (for PLA) for several hours, flipping the spool a few times during it. You can also use an oven but I would not trust the temperature control not to shoot up high enough to ruin the filament. If you want a less hackish solution, all sorts of specialized filament drying systems are available but I don't have experience with any to recommend. I just use my bed for PLA and oven for materials that can withstand higher temperatures.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I would say that it **IS** stringing. If you have a Bowden setup, AND you have a different filament, your retraction may need to be tuned! If this is not a Vase Mode (no separate layers, but a continuous stream, these could be because the start/stop point of the layer change is not "fixed"...Check that setting in the slicer! While it looks like missed layer adhesion, it is probably a movement from one stop point of a layer to the start point of the next layer.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, troubleshooting, stringing
--- |
thread-16025 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16025 | Unable to load new filament FlashForge Adventurer 3 | 2021-04-03T22:50:13.897 | # Question
Title: Unable to load new filament FlashForge Adventurer 3
I have a FlashForge Adventurer 3. I have just finished my sample filament today and tried to replace it with a new spool of filament. This new filament is by Hatchbox, instead of FlashForge. Besides that, the new filament is 1.75 mm PLA filament, like the sample spool. However, when I tried to insert the new filament, it doesn't feed in. I get a loud, thumping sound from the printer, but the filament doesn't get fed through. Does anyone know why this is happening or what I should do?
# Answer
> 1 votes
First thing I'd try is making sure the nozzle is hot enough and carefully try to feed the new filament where it will be pushed - sometimes there's melted filament that just isn't hot enough to flow out and the new filament is pushing on it, jamming and making your motor make that sound. Usually getting it hot to the point where the old filament is practically dripping out before attempting to insert the new filament will work.
If that doesn't work I might let the thing cool, disassemble the nozzle, and remove the jam mechanically (and reassemble it).
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Tags: filament, change-filament, flashforge-adventurer-3, flashforge
--- |
thread-16033 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16033 | Problems with ColorFabb XT: over extrusion | 2021-04-05T09:04:45.677 | # Question
Title: Problems with ColorFabb XT: over extrusion
I could really use some help here. I am trying to print with ColorFabb XT and have been having an overflow problem, which creates an accumulation of material on the nozzle tip creating stringing and depositing random chunks of material randomly throughout the print. When I get the nozzle to 250 °C, the filament flows heavily by itself.
I have upped the print speed, retraction speed and retraction distance and results are getting better, but the problem is still present and my concern is the values are getting relatively high.
I am using a CR-10S Pro and my settings are:
* Print speed: 80 mm/s (I actually started with the recommended settings but they were all off)
* Nozzle temp: 250 °C
* Bed temp: 70 °C
* Retraction speed: 50 mm/s
* Retraction distance: 7.5 mm
I have managed to print some pieces that don't require much traveling since they are round and filament is deposited in a concentric pattern and also each layer didn't use a lot of material but whenever pieces have bigger cross sections and layers need to deposit more material or there is a minimum amount of travel needed, the problem becomes evident.
* Any ideas?
* Has anyone had experience with this material?
# Answer
Level the bed and check your filament diameter.
Usually this occurs because the space between the nozzle and bed is greater than it should be for the material put out of the nozzle.
Such conditions can happen for a variety of reasons but usually it's an improper bed leveling.
Filament diameter vs what your slicer program thinks is the filament diameter is one of the easier ways to control material output after bed is level. (Sometimes I tell my slicer that the material is smaller than it really is to get it to output more)
Sometimes your z axis moves too much or you are using a layer height that your z axis could not handle. You may have to increase layer thickness.
Getting the temperatures into a point where it is not too hot and not too cold is also important. If the material is too cold, it won't stick. If too hot, it cools and shrinks by the time your new layer gets to it ( making it lower or warped out of place from where the new layer tries to stick ) Increasing bed temperatures is a good way to help counteract the shrinkage.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-material, creality-cr-10, retraction, colorfabb-xt
--- |
thread-16036 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16036 | Stepper Motors getting extremely hot | 2021-04-05T13:02:52.573 | # Question
Title: Stepper Motors getting extremely hot
I installed MKS Gen L V2.1 with TMC 2209 drivers to my Creality Ender-3 printer and updated the software to marlin 2, the stepper motors are getting extremely hot. What should i due to resolve this problem. The following Code is from the configuration\_adv.h file showing the currents.
```
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(X)
#define X_CURRENT 800 // (mA) RMS current. Multiply by 1.414 for peak current.
#define X_CURRENT_HOME X_CURRENT // (mA) RMS current for sensorless homing
#define X_MICROSTEPS 32 // 0..256
#define X_RSENSE 0.11
#define X_CHAIN_POS -1 // <=0 : Not chained. 1 : MCU MOSI connected. 2 : Next in chain, ...
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(X2)
#define X2_CURRENT 800
#define X2_CURRENT_HOME X2_CURRENT
#define X2_MICROSTEPS 16
#define X2_RSENSE 0.11
#define X2_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y)
#define Y_CURRENT 800
#define Y_CURRENT_HOME Y_CURRENT
#define Y_MICROSTEPS 32
#define Y_RSENSE 0.11
#define Y_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y2)
#define Y2_CURRENT 800
#define Y2_CURRENT_HOME Y2_CURRENT
#define Y2_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Y2_RSENSE 0.11
#define Y2_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z)
#define Z_CURRENT 800
#define Z_CURRENT_HOME Z_CURRENT
#define Z_MICROSTEPS 32
#define Z_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z2)
#define Z2_CURRENT 800
#define Z2_CURRENT_HOME Z2_CURRENT
#define Z2_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z2_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z2_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z3)
#define Z3_CURRENT 800
#define Z3_CURRENT_HOME Z3_CURRENT
#define Z3_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z3_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z3_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z4)
#define Z4_CURRENT 800
#define Z4_CURRENT_HOME Z4_CURRENT
#define Z4_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z4_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z4_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E0)
#define E0_CURRENT 850
#define E0_MICROSTEPS 32
#define E0_RSENSE 0.11
#define E0_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
```
Thanks.
# Answer
I notice that in "configuration\_adv.h" for the BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3, which uses TMC2209 drivers, the similar section has:
```
#if HAS_TRINAMIC_CONFIG
#define HOLD_MULTIPLIER 0.5 // Scales down the holding current from run current
#define INTERPOLATE true // Interpolate X/Y/Z_MICROSTEPS to 256
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(X)
#define X_CURRENT 580 // (mA) RMS current. Multiply by 1.414 for peak current.
#define X_CURRENT_HOME (X_CURRENT/2) // (mA) RMS current for sensorless homing
#define X_MICROSTEPS 16 // 0..256
#define X_RSENSE 0.11
#define X_CHAIN_POS -1 // <=0 : Not chained. 1 : MCU MOSI connected. 2 : Next in chain, ...
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(X2)
#define X2_CURRENT 800
#define X2_CURRENT_HOME X2_CURRENT
#define X2_MICROSTEPS 16
#define X2_RSENSE 0.11
#define X2_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y)
#define Y_CURRENT 580
#define Y_CURRENT_HOME (Y_CURRENT/2)
#define Y_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Y_RSENSE 0.11
#define Y_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y2)
#define Y2_CURRENT 800
#define Y2_CURRENT_HOME Y2_CURRENT
#define Y2_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Y2_RSENSE 0.11
#define Y2_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z)
#define Z_CURRENT 580
#define Z_CURRENT_HOME Z_CURRENT
#define Z_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z2)
#define Z2_CURRENT 800
#define Z2_CURRENT_HOME Z2_CURRENT
#define Z2_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z2_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z2_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z3)
#define Z3_CURRENT 800
#define Z3_CURRENT_HOME Z3_CURRENT
#define Z3_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z3_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z3_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z4)
#define Z4_CURRENT 800
#define Z4_CURRENT_HOME Z4_CURRENT
#define Z4_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z4_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z4_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E0)
#define E0_CURRENT 650
#define E0_MICROSTEPS 16
#define E0_RSENSE 0.11
#define E0_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E1)
#define E1_CURRENT 800
#define E1_MICROSTEPS 16
#define E1_RSENSE 0.11
#define E1_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
// ...
```
In the reddit thread Stepper driver current settings?, user brewc found that the stepper motors drivers supplied with the Ender 3 specify peak (maximum) current whereas the TMC drivers specify RMS current.
So, you probably want to change the current settings to those in the above .h file.
Of course, in the spirit of changing almost everything on an Ender 3, you could also swap for stepper motors with a higher current specification and/or add heatsinks to the motors.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: marlin, stepper-driver, stepper, motor, mks
--- |
thread-14935 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14935 | Aggressive resin solvent | 2020-12-04T00:58:05.900 | # Question
Title: Aggressive resin solvent
For the purpose of cleaning, I need an aggressive solvent for cured or partially cured resin that will degrade resin down to its liquid state. I'm looking for one that would eat out specifically resin (I'm using regular Anycubic green resin) in a rapid fashion but would leave painted / metallic parts and screen of my 3D printer without damage.
# Answer
Concentrated nitric acid will remove all organics, including your skin, wire insulation, etc. It will work on a glass plate, but the fumes would eventually damage the plastics on your printer unless you remove the glass plate to clean it. Nitric acid will destroy most build surfaces that are added to glass. To a lesser extent concentrated sulfuric acid works, but it tends to leave carbon behind. With these acids it takes special gloves, and I would not even depend too heavily on them always working. The more concentrated the acids (the less water), the less they will attack metals. Note: this will quickly strip the paint off metal parts.
Thus, you probably cannot find an aggressive chemical that is practical for you to use.
> 6 votes
# Answer
# **Wear Gloves.**
### Returning is impossible
Resin does not just *harden*, it **polymerizes** into shape from monomers in a chemical reaction. That means to break it down, you need to destroy the whole chemistry. There is no solvent that can simply reverse it.
### Wiping is easy
As long as the rein is still liquid, you can wipe it off. Then clean the parts with Isopropylic alcohol.
### Manual work
Destroying Resin-Polymers is incredibly hard for most solvents. The most simple solution is usually oddly enough to use physical force. Resins are super brittle and chip off, but might damage the paint coat in the worst case.
### Thermal shock
If you can, you might put your printer in a cold environment and see the resin gaining cracks, as it shrinks slower and less than the metal. Then, putting it back into the heat adds more.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I would try hexane, and then Dichloromethane and if those did not work, I would heat up sodium hydroxide to about 70-90 °C. These would work better if you print in PLA resin, it's available from a few sources now.
Bucktown polymers and 3Dresyns both have a water-soluble resin. You could also print, make a soft silicone mold, cast in chocolate or isomalt and quickly seal in b72 enamel to hold its shape for your next step.
Another great option is to cast the printed mold with Amazing Remelt as you can microwave it out of your shell afterward. Or heat up/steam.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: resin, safety, chemistry
--- |
thread-16044 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16044 | Will a Micro Swiss extruder and hotend speed up prints on my Ender 3 Pro? | 2021-04-07T12:24:10.323 | # Question
Title: Will a Micro Swiss extruder and hotend speed up prints on my Ender 3 Pro?
Long story for hopefully a simple yes/no answer:
I have a lightly modified Ender 3 Pro (BLTouch, glass bed, beefier bed springs and nobs, led lights) and I daydream about someday getting an "Ender Extender" kit to go larger or something, but before I ever do that I need to drastically speed up the prints. Last night the first layer on one of my prints took 40 minutes and I watched the whole time to make sure it laid down well. Can't imagine waiting around with a larger build surface. I understand basic settings like lighter infill/less perimeters/etc... but when it comes to really changing the speed and acceleration settings I'm a bit of a newb.
So after reading this article on improving print speeds, it seems like the Bowden tube style default extruder on my Ender 3 probably doesn't have the grip strength and/or constrained filament path to really push filament faster.
Based on that same article and this one, it seems like there are a lot of options for extruders and hotends to upgrade. The reason the Micro Swiss appealed to me is that it seems like this option is pretty much bolt-on plug and play (additional info here).
And it seems like it already has a convenient spot for my BLTouch.
Which brings me to the title of my question: **will that Micro Swiss extruder/hotend combo do what I think it'll do? i.e. allow me to push filament faster and heat it up quicker?**
Is there a better alternative extruder/hotend that is also pretty easy to figure out?
Lastly (maybe this should be a different question/too open-ended) are there other relatively simple upgrades/modifications to the Ender 3 Pro that will help it print faster?
# Answer
> 3 votes
If you want a single word answer, then no.
Before you ask this question you need to figure out *why* your prints are slower than you want them to be. With default settings, unless your models are something dead simple like a big cube or cylinder, you're almost certainly limited by *acceleration*, not extrusion rate or even max print/travel speed (which you'll almost never achieve). Gcode analysis tools like gcodeanalyser.com will help you gauge this by predicting actual speeds the printer will achieve. Note that even if your model is simple, printing infill and top/bottom layers involves *a lot* of acceleration/deceleration cycles, so even for simple models this may still be your limiting factor.
Until you reach very high accelerations (over 5000 mm/s²) letting you actually achieve very high speeds (over 150 mm/s or so), the only way to make extrusion your limiting factor is by using really thick layers or wide walls. At 0.2 mm layer height and 0.4 mm line width, even a sustained 150 mm/s is only 12 mm³/s volumetric extrusion rate which is high but reportedly within the capabilities of the stock Ender 3 extruder and hotend (but probably requires cranking up the temperature).
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, extruder, hotend
--- |
thread-16031 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16031 | Recommendation for free, intuitive offline 3D modeling software for 3D printing | 2021-04-04T20:13:46.087 | # Question
Title: Recommendation for free, intuitive offline 3D modeling software for 3D printing
I've used TinkerCAD (https://www.tinkercad.com/) and was able to easily model objects for 3D printing, despite having no prior experience in 3D modeling. However it needs to be connected to the internet to work, which is not always available at my location. At minimum, I need an ability to create solid shapes and holes, and with resize, align and rotate options.
Is there an equivalent program that's free, with a similar intuitive interface as TinkerCAD, and works completely offline?
# Answer
> 0 votes
From trying out several alternatives (Fusion 360, Wings 3D, Blender, and others), the closest free offline equivalent to TinkerCAD turned out to be OpenSCAD.
It has nowhere near the same level of intuition, but based on info from two tutorials ("OpenSCAD Tutorial - Beginners Quickstart", "OpenSCAD - Model a Bearing in less than ten minutes."), OpenSCAD was able to fulfill the minimum requirements that were needed from TinkerCAD most quickly, i.e.,"*...ability to create solid shapes and holes, and with resize, align and rotate options*"
# Answer
> 0 votes
I suspect there may be fewer answers than we expect. Personally free software wise I like FreeCAD but it is not similar to the simple shapes of tinkercad at all and not intuitive.
I did know someone who used something from https://www.xyzprinting.com that was very similar to the tinkercad stuff, but eventually ran into limitations and switched to more advanced software anyway.
---
Tags: 3d-design, software
--- |
thread-16049 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16049 | Ender 3 v2 printing problem | 2021-04-07T17:53:52.687 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 v2 printing problem
Last week, my printer worked really well, but after a print it started having some printing problems. The printer stops extruding mid-print or under extrudes.
After this happened, I
* leveled the bed again
* increased hotend temperature from 200 to 215 °C (PLA)
* changed slicer (I was using Ultimaker Cura), now I'm using Creality slicer
* changed the transmission ratio 93 to 106 according to this video
After making adjustments according to the video, the printer still stops extruding mid-print or under extrudes. What should I do to fix this?
# Answer
> 0 votes
One common reason for extrusion to stop in the middle of a print is heat creep. See What are ways to avoid heat creep?
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, underextrusion
--- |
thread-16046 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16046 | How do I know if my BLTouch is faulty or firmware is faulty? | 2021-04-07T17:19:48.687 | # Question
Title: How do I know if my BLTouch is faulty or firmware is faulty?
I just got the Ender 5 Plus with BLTouch set up today. I was having some massive issues and determined that my leveling was off because the BLTouch was flashing red and not connecting. When I turn on the printer there is about a 50% chance that it will probe correctly by deploying the pin and correctly retracting it. However, I'm having about a 75 to 90% fail rate on auto leveling where it is doing measurements. I've checked the wiring and it looks correct, but not sure what else to check.
The fixes I've seen say updating the firmware, but all show firmware at 1.70.0 BL. Mine is at 1.70.2 BL. So I'm not sure if there are more firmware updates to apply.
I do not know how to check which BLTouch I have. And I've been able to make it get to printing 2 times, but something is off because it is stringy at 1 point of the build on the first layer. No adhesion basically. So that is the problem I'm trying to fix, but can't get to it because the BLTouch fails so often on the first part. The only way I've found to fix the BLTouch consistently is turn off machine, pull the pin down, push it up, then turn on the machine again.
Is it possible this is a firmware issue or is just the BLTouch is likely faulty?
# Answer
# Try calibrating your Z offset
Based on this answer it sounds like the flashing red means there isn't enough clearance between your bed and your probe for it to operate.
You might try raising your Z axis up a bit to let the probe achieve the minimum clearance necessary for deploying the probe. My guess is that your Z-offset isn't quite right and it isn't raising up enough to allow that minimum clearance.
I recommend calibrating your Z offset and see if that resolves the issue.
> 1 votes
# Answer
# Replace the probe
The probe that came with the original BLTouch definitely had issues. There seems to be some slight difference in the original probe and was replaced with a spare probe that comes with the Ender 5+. There was an immediate change in success rate of turning on the device and other measurements.
This blog post goes into more details. I was helped by an amazing reddit user that gave me some pointers about this issue. It definitely is not obvious. Red flashing on boot and intermittent failures during checks are indicators you may want to change the probe.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: bed-leveling, firmware, bltouch
--- |
thread-16058 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16058 | Can I print an object with thin walls? | 2021-04-08T22:46:11.317 | # Question
Title: Can I print an object with thin walls?
Most specifications for 3D printers show that the minimum wall thickness should be 1 mm. We printed our object using Selective Laser Sintering with Nylon12 through an online service, and although it looked great, it did not work as expected.
We are hoping to try the print again with a 0.5 mm wall. What is the best printing method that offers the strongest model for this wall size?
We also found a service that offers even smaller wall thickness - does anyone have any experience with this?
We were also wondering if we could do post-processing to make it stronger - such as metal plating. Would this work on thin models?
# Answer
The test print in your question used an SLS printer. The other common alternative is FDM.
For narrow outer walls with FDM printers, you want to think in exact multiples of the nozzle size. Furthermore, unless the printer is well-tuned, you usually want at least two rows for the outer wall. Otherwise any flaw at all in the outer wall leaves gaps or tears in the final print.
Given most printers use a 0.4 mm nozzle, this means the typical minimum wall thickness is 0.8 mm. I use this number fairly often with good success.
If you want 0.5 mm you could step up to a larger 0.5 mm nozzle and give it a shot with only one row. But again, this will end up with flawed prints unless the printer is very well tuned and assembled, and if strength is one of your concerns it will be significantly weaker. Or, you could step down to a 0.3 mm or 0.2 mm nozzle and use multiple rows. Neither of those sizes will give you exactly 0.5 mm, but they can get you a smaller thickness than the 0.4 mm nozzle, at the cost of longer print times.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality
--- |
thread-16061 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16061 | How to unload filament without cancelling print | 2021-04-09T17:59:05.883 | # Question
Title: How to unload filament without cancelling print
I have a Prusa MK3s MMU2s which I was running a 7-hour print job on.
It had two spools of filament in, a blue one (primary, very little left) and a gold one (secondary, quite a lot left). It ran out of blue filament approximately 75% through the print job and rather than simply using the remainder of the blue and switching to the gold, the blue was bent and caught on the output nozzle of my spool container. It says that:
> MMU needs user attention, fix issue then press button on MMU unit.
I have fixed the issue (snipped the bent part of the blue filament), however, I can't figure out how to make it continue printing. After fiddling a little bit, the red and green lights are all flashing, but no matter what MMU buttons I press, it doesn't continue printing. How should I fix this without cancelling the print job?
# Answer
> 2 votes
This condition is covered in the MMU2S manual's section on troubleshooting:
> 13.4 All five LEDs blinking red and green
>
> MMU2S unit can now deal with a state in which the Trinamic drivers were not able to provide enough power for steppers. A possible cause can be a broken MMU2S power supply wiring, connectors etc. Please check that all connectors are properly plugged into the MMU2S board and make sure that the cables are in good condition. Also, make sure that the screws on the Einsy terminal box for the power cables are properly tightened. If this state is detected, the MMU2S unit rehomes and automatically continues printing. If the problem occurs three times in a row, the MMU2S unit stops printing and starts flashing continuously with red and green LEDs. Printing can be restored by restarting MMU2S unit using the button on the right side of MMU2S unit.
So, once you have fixed the problem which prevented the filament from moving, press the reset button on the MMU2S. It is recessed, so you will need a tool to push it (such as the 2.5 mm Allen key included with the printer). You will then need to wait a few seconds for the MMU2 to complete its reboot and be ready to communicate, before telling the printer to continue.
Note that the filament may have been chewed by the MMU2 or extruder drive gears and unable to feed properly. Be prepared to — if you haven't already — disassemble the tubing and manually pull out the remaining filament sections. I find this modified holder for the MMU2's filament tubes that uses push-in couplings instead of a clamp very useful to allow quick access when there's a problem or even when inserting new filament.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, prusa-mmu
--- |
thread-16067 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16067 | Can't print anything! Is this heat creep? (Detailed explanation & Photo) | 2021-04-10T14:31:51.667 | # Question
Title: Can't print anything! Is this heat creep? (Detailed explanation & Photo)
I have bought an Ender 3 Pro in November. I loved 3D printing and even upgraded my machine to improve my experience. However, lately, I can't print anything due to an issue I can't seem to resolve.
I will provide as many details as I can in an orderly fashion.
1. My machine: Ender 3 Pro w/ BLTouch clone installed. Running Marlin's latest bugfix branch. Also has a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint built into the PSU so I can control both the Power and functionalities of the printer. I have a glass bed, red aluminum extruder.
2. My settings:
* Printing with PLA;
* Hot end at 200 °C;
* Bed is at 70 °C;
* ABL is on;
* Nozzle: 0.4 mm;
* Layer height: 0.2 mm;
* Slicer: CURA
3. The issue: While the first layer is printing, the filament bunches up around the nozzle and if it somehow touches the bed (like I reduce the Probe-Z offset) it doesn't stick and drags on a few mm. It eventually sticks and keeps printing fine for long straight lines but it's impossible to print a little circle inside, for example. The small details aren't printed on the bed, the filament just bunches up around the nozzle.
Also when I do a cold pull(heat up to 200 °C then pull at 90 °C, the tip of the filament looks like this:
4. I have tried the following:
* e-step calibration
* PID Autotune
* Lowering/increasing temp (210-190 °C)
* Lowering/increasing first layer speed (+/- 10-25 %)
* Changing the heat block and the throat tube (twice)
* Taking the entire hot end apart and cleaning it and changing the nozzle (even re-cutting the PTFE tube) multiple times
My theory is that the heat traveling up the cold block thins out the filament, causing under extrusion. The filament can't properly stick to the bed because it's too thin. But the hot end fan works. Should I still replace it?
Or is my problem something completely different?
# Answer
> 3 votes
This sounds like nothing but a bed leveling (distance from nozzle to bed) problem, though you may have introduced other problems disassembling the hotend. It's normal to have material oozing and bunching up before the print starts; this is why you start printing with a priming line or skirt.
Clean the bed well with isopropyl alcohol, level it (paper method at Z=0 or feeler gauges at Z=0.1, I prefer the latter), then fine tune with a leveling test print. If you're still having problems make sure the PTFE tube is tensioned against the nozzle right inside the hotend. Having any gap will make for all sorts of problems.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, adhesion, underextrusion
--- |
thread-15954 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15954 | How do I update my firmware after installing a 400XL kit on my Ender 3 | 2021-03-26T11:45:29.077 | # Question
Title: How do I update my firmware after installing a 400XL kit on my Ender 3
I've updated my Ender 3 with V4.2.7 mainboard, BLTouch and 400XL kit (extends the capabilities of your Creality Ender 3 3D Printer to a 400 mm X, 400 mm Y and a 500 mm Z printing platform). Now I need to update the firmware. YouTube did not provide any help: i.e.: out of date, so cryptic as to be unusable. Marlin & Creality had overly complicated, for what I need, solutions. Trying these led only to frustrations! Any ideas?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Without knowing exactly which Youtube videos you've looked at, I think where I would start is by downloading the latest Marlin Fimrware and configuration files for the Ender 3 with 4.2.7 board:
Latest Release of Marlin Firmware on Github
Configuration File Repository on Github
Microsoft visual Studio
PlatormIO
If I were doing your upgrade in your place, I would refer to this video for how to compile the firmware for the correct board. I've had to compile firmware for my Ender 3 a few times and I sometimes forget a step. This video is the best that I've found for showing/reminding me of each step.
Essentially, what I think you need to do is compile your firmware as if it were a stock Ender 3 V2 using the settings files I linked above but then change your print area the configuration.h file to match the X400 x Y400 x Z500 print bed area.
Look for the following:
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 200
#define Y_BED_SIZE 200
```
Change to the following:
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 400
#define Y_BED_SIZE 400
```
And then look for
```
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
```
and change to:
```
#define Z_MAX_POS 500
```
There are other changes you'd need to make to the settings file (refer to the video for those). I haven't done your particular upgrade on my machine, so I'm just guessing those extra couple of changes would work for you.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I've done the board upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro. As I've read the BLTouch is easy to install. I'd go over to the Creality forum/help site. You can open a support ticket. They actively have information on firmware in both "release" and "beta" threads. Look there & see if you can get your answers.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Shortly after my post I found this commercial Marlin site<sup> *1)*</sup>. It offers firmware for Creality & other printers. You can order 'off the shelf' firmware or customize it yourself. Customizing is quite easy & self explanatory; 5 min. after submitting my requirements, I received a zip file, which I un-zipped & copied the needed file to my SD card. Then I inserted the SD card into my printer & started it. The printer recognized the new firmware & updated its self.
---
<sup>*1)*</sup> *This service is not free. Membership of \\$15.00/year, is required.*
# Answer
> 1 votes
A quick solution is obtaining a pre configured configuration file for this custom extended version of the Ender 3. While it should be very easy to find configurations for Ender 3 with or without BLTouch, the only difference this extension has is an updated printer volume specification. A ready made configuration is found here (please note that it contains an errand for the maximum build height, change `#define Z_MAX_POS 250` to `#define Z_MAX_POS 500`.
The basic changes are:
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 400
#define Y_BED_SIZE 400
Z_MAX_POS 500
```
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, firmware, 400xl
--- |
thread-7228 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7228 | Is lubricating filament a good idea? | 2018-10-22T13:28:25.657 | # Question
Title: Is lubricating filament a good idea?
With respect to Himanshu's comment about applying a lubricant to PLA filament, and then having read the Reddit thread, Seasoning all-metal hot ends with oil?, pointed to in 0scar's answer, I was wondering if any studies have been done on the topic?
If so, what is the general consensus? From the Reddit thread it seems as if the better quality branded hotends, such as E3D do not require it, whereas the older, or less well finished clones, may well benefit from such treatment.
In addition, which oil is preferable, animal, vegetable or mineral? Is vaseline a good idea?
Also, would the advice differ if ABS filament is used, or would the same conditions apply?
# Answer
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say this is probably not a good idea in any capacity.
First off, if you take a look at this list of cooking oils, you'll notice that pretty much all of them have smoke points below the printing temperature of ABS, with a handful of exceptions that have smoke points just barely above that temperature. All that means is that the hydrocarbon chains are going to break down inside your extruder, which really accomplishes nothing helpful for you. As the compounds break down further and oxidize with the small amounts of air coming into the extruder, you're going to get carbon fouling on all surfaces, including the filament itself as it extrudes.
Second, and this depends entirely on the amount of oil present, but I'd expect to see oil actually coating the filament somewhat as it comes out of the nozzle, and acting as a separating agent between the lines of filament on the print itself. I'm not sure how much you'd actually experience this, but again, best case scenario is it doesn't happen, and the oil doesn't give you any real advantage here.
Third, the process of seasoning cast iron works because the surface of the cast iron should be smooth for minimal food sticking, and any kind of rusting causes pits and porosity in the metal. Seasoning just ensures that oil stays in the metal to prevent moisture from interacting with it, and to provide a very thin oil layer that somewhat separates food from the metal until the food is hot enough that its own fats have started to lubricate it against the pan. Extruders on the other hand really shouldn't have porous surfaces nor be made of easily oxidized materials. Stainless heatbreaks, aluminum blocks, brass nozzles, all of these really aren't going to rust readily and probably won't benefit much from an oil coating.
Fourth, if you're looking for a nonstick coating for the interior of the extruder, a PTFE liner has been known to give excellent results for a very long time now. If you're printing above the temperatures PTFE can survive at, then unfortunately you're also printing above the temperatures that pretty much any cooking oil (or petroleum jelly) will survive without rapidly breaking down.
So to summarize, you're not going to find many oils that can even survive inside an extruder, and they wouldn't really give you many benefits for the duration of time that they weren't just a charcoal slurry.
> 5 votes
# Answer
W.R.T Nach0z's answer:
> Third, the process of seasoning cast iron works because the surface of the cast iron should be smooth for minimal food sticking, and any kind of rusting causes pits and porosity in the metal.
You season a cast iron pan to create a carbon layer on top of the metal. Water should not be left standing in a cast iron skillet. For my 3D printers I replace the Bowden tube once a year. It cures many problems for me. I suspect that over time the filament cause abrasion in the tube that increases friction. I also do a teardown and cleaning of the extruder in the same interval.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: filament
--- |
thread-16059 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16059 | Possible 3D printer nozzle jam? | 2021-04-09T02:41:27.660 | # Question
Title: Possible 3D printer nozzle jam?
Is this a jam? How do it fix it? There is a piece of filament stuck in the metal block (I have no idea what it is used for(other than mounting). When I heat up the extruder and try to extrude nothing happens.
Printer: Maker Select v2 (Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus)
Image above is the hot-end with the filament feeding stepper motor removed.
# Answer
What you are looking at is the top of a Makerbot MK10-style hotend. It appears that the filament has snapped off at the entry of the heat break at the top of the cold end. The image below shows how the hotend is constructed, from top to bottom, brasss nozzle, heater element block, heat break (with PTFE liner, or not if it is an all metal hotend) and the cold end cooling block.
You indeed have a jam if an increased temperature cannot push the filament out. What you can try is to heat up the hotend (above the normal filament printing temperature, e.g. 10-20 °C higher; a too high temperature can cause filament to carbonize) with the feeder stepper removed pushing a 1.5 mm drill bit from the top of the heat break and see if you can push the obstruction out. If you have a fine needle or a specific nozzle cleaning tool, you could try from the nozzle opening. If not, you need to take the hotend apart and need to consider to buy some spare parts (at least a new PTFE liner if present), this is usually more simple than cleaning the small parts. If it is ABS filament you can use acetone to dissolve the filament, but for PLA/PETG there are no simple solvents.
The image below shows an exploded view of the assembly.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: monoprice-maker-select
--- |
thread-16078 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16078 | Steppers stuck with Klipper but work with Marlin | 2021-04-12T11:06:49.983 | # Question
Title: Steppers stuck with Klipper but work with Marlin
I replaced the fans of my ender 3v2 with Noctuas & Buck converters. During the replacement, I made a mistake and burnt the motherboard (shorted one of the fans). I replaced the motherboard, finished the wiring. The new motherboard is the Creality Ender 3 V2 `V4.2.7` Silent Motherboard 32 Bit Mainboard with TMC 2225 Drivers from amazon. The old board with the exact same, but in version `4.2.2`
The printer works and auto-home runs normally with marlin (all options by default). Name of the binary: `Ender-3 V2_32bit_4.2.7_BLTouch_Marlin_2.0.1_V1.1.1_TMC2225`
Klipper version: `FIRMWARE_VERSION:v0.9.1-160-g8a6619d1 FIRMWARE_NAME:Klipper` When the printer is running Klipper, controlled by an Octoprint, the steppers dont spin. I can hear the gentle "thud" of the motors being energized when I send a "auto-home" command, they rotate for like a baby step (feels like a single vibration more than a spin, like they're "trying" but don't have the power to actually move) and stay stuck there until the auto-home times-out.
I tried running `STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_x` and the same for the Y axis, but it doesn't look like anything is happening.
I am more or less sure this is a software problem, since the printer works just fine with Marlin but I never had this problem with Klipper before I replaced the motherboard.
I have put aside my custom config and am using the "default" `printer.cfg` config that I found here (copy/pasted below)
```
# This file contains pin mappings for the stock 2020 Creality Ender 3
# V2. To use this config, during "make menuconfig" select the
# STM32F103 with a "28KiB bootloader" and serial (on USART1 PA10/PA9)
# communication.
# If you prefer a direct serial connection, in "make menuconfig"
# select "Enable extra low-level configuration options" and select
# serial (on USART3 PB11/PB10), which is broken out on the 10 pin IDC
# cable used for the LCD module as follows:
# 3: Tx, 4: Rx, 9: GND, 10: VCC
# Flash this firmware by copying "out/klipper.bin" to a SD card and
# turning on the printer with the card inserted. The firmware
# filename must end in ".bin" and must not match the last filename
# that was flashed.
# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PC2
dir_pin: PB9
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PA5
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 235
homing_speed: 50
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PB8
dir_pin: PB7
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PA6
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 235
homing_speed: 50
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PB6
dir_pin: !PB5
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 8
endstop_pin: ^PA7
position_endstop: 0.0
position_max: 250
[extruder]
max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0
step_pin: PB4
dir_pin: PB3
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 34.406
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PA1
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC5
control: pid
# tuned for stock hardware with 200 degree Celsius target
pid_Kp: 21.527
pid_Ki: 1.063
pid_Kd: 108.982
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 250
[heater_bed]
heater_pin: PA2
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC4
control: pid
# tuned for stock hardware with 50 degree Celsius target
pid_Kp: 54.027
pid_Ki: 0.770
pid_Kd: 948.182
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 130
[fan]
pin: PA0
[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0
restart_method: command
[printer]
kinematics: cartesian
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 3000
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 100
```
What could be causing the steppers to be stuck with Klipper, but work with Marlin ?
What I tried, with no success (as advised by the internet):
* Untighten the belts
* Remove the `!` from `enable_pin: !PC3` in the config
* Re-build & flash the firmware instead of reusing the old bin I had kept
# Answer
> 5 votes
It seems the pinout scheme changed on the Creality board between the versions `V4.2.2` and `4.2.8`. For example, `PB9` & `PC2` were inverted between `step_pin` and `dir_pin`.
Using the following Klipper config (found here) allows the motors to do their job again.
<pre><code>[stepper_x]
step_pin: PB9
dir_pin: PC2
enable_pin: !PC3
step_distance: .0125
endstop_pin: ^PA5
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 235
homing_speed: 50
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PB7
dir_pin: PB8
enable_pin: !PC3
step_distance: .0125
endstop_pin: ^PA6
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 235
homing_speed: 50
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PB5
dir_pin: !PB6
enable_pin: !PC3
step_distance: .0025
endstop_pin: ^PA7
position_endstop: 0.0
position_max: 250
[extruder]
max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0
step_pin: PB3
dir_pin: PB4
enable_pin: !PC3
step_distance: 0.010752
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PA1
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC5
control: pid
# tuned for stock hardware with 200 degree Celsius target
pid_Kp: 21.527
pid_Ki: 1.063
pid_Kd: 108.982
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 250
[heater_bed]
heater_pin: PA2
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC4
control: pid
# tuned for stock hardware with 50 degree Celsius target
pid_Kp: 54.027
pid_Ki: 0.770
pid_Kd: 948.182
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 130
[fan]
pin: PA0
[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0
[printer]
kinematics: cartesian
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 3000
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 100
[display]
lcd_type: st7920
cs_pin: PB12
sclk_pin: PB13
sid_pin: PB15
encoder_pins: ^PB14, ^PB10
click_pin: ^!PB2
```
</code></pre>
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, firmware, klipper
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thread-16070 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16070 | Ender 3 V2 auto homing | 2021-04-10T20:05:12.487 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 V2 auto homing
With my Ender 3 V2, to home the extruder, I have to choose **Disable Stepper**, manually move the extruder to the X-axis stop switch; then select **Auto Home**. After that point everything homes correctly.
My question, is there a way to get the extruder to automatically move to the X-axis stop switch and then proceed to auto home after **Auto Home** is selected without selecting **Disable Stepper**?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I figured this out... It was a firmware issue. I went to Creality's Forums and found the appropriate firmware and now it auto homes as I would expect it should.
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Tags: creality-ender-3
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thread-16041 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16041 | Still getting "no layers detected" after repairing model in PrusaSlicer console | 2021-04-06T16:19:44.457 | # Question
Title: Still getting "no layers detected" after repairing model in PrusaSlicer console
I tried to slice an stl file using the PrusaSlicer console and I got the `No layers were detected. You might want to repair your STL file(s) or check their size or thickness and retry.` message. I tried repairing the model with 3 different services and I still get the same error. When I load the fixed stl file into the PrusaSlicer gui, it doesn't say that the model is broken. How can the console and gui give 2 different results and how can I fix this?
Here's an image of the model being loaded into the gui version. It states that the model is broken but was automatically fixed.
Then I manually fixed the model using Netfabb and the model is no longer broken according to the gui version.
Yet when I try to slice the repaired model using the console, it fails again.
PrusaSlicer version is 2.3.0 on Windows 10.
You can find the stl and repaired stl here.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Still don't have an actual answer as to why repairing the stl file didn't seem to work, but since my stl file was a combination of different stl files I tried repairing the individual stl files before combining them, which resolved the problem.
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Tags: stl, prusaslicer
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thread-5905 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5905 | Speeding up the heating of the heated bed | 2018-05-02T23:36:12.267 | # Question
Title: Speeding up the heating of the heated bed
Currently I am using a 12 volts, 20 amperes power supply (Model S-240-12)
The stepper motors and the extruder need 5 amp, and the heated bed build plate needs 11 amp.
Technically you only need to use a 12 Volts, 16 amperes power supply, but I understand that you use the one with 20 amp because pulse currents from extruders and stepper motors can be stressful to supplies loaded to the max, so for reliability and performance, it is better to use a supply rated for 25% more than you need
In the place where I buy the spare parts for my 3d printer they also sell 12 V power supplies capable of delivering 25 amp and 30 amp and they told me that if I use those ones you are going to be able to speed up the heating of the heated bed. Is that true? I understand that the heated bed is only going to take the 11 amp that it needs so is not going to make any difference to use power supplies capable of delivering more current
# Answer
> 7 votes
Changing the PSU with one with a higher amperage will ***not*** make the bed heat up any faster unless the PSU is underrated for the amperage required and the voltage is dropping as a result of the load. This can be checked by measuring the output voltage with a multimeter (when the PSU is loaded e.g. by a heating heat bed). In this case, the PSU has a marginal higher Amperage than the printer consumes (even has some room for the over-voltage; ***under the assumption that it is a good working PSU***). Increasing the voltage will decrease the heat up time. There is a screw next to the 12 V connectors that can change the output voltage of the PSU. Usually, it is safe to increase the voltage up to 14 V, but that depends on your whole setup (and 14 V is applied to the whole setup, increasing the current for **all** parts, including your printer controller board, this board must be rated for the 14 V). **Please do check the stability of the voltage during load.**
Although it can be done, it is not something I used. What is an extra minute on a print of several hours?
You can do the math: say the heat bed has a resistance of 1.2 Ω. We only need two formulas:
* $U=R\times I$ \- potential Difference ***U*** is Resistance ***R*** times Current ***I***
* $P=U\times I=I^2\times R=\frac {U^2} R$. The power ***P*** of an item the potential difference times the current through the item.
* at **12 V** that will draw 10 Amps (12 V / 1.2 Ω) resulting in a 120 Watt bed: $P= 12^2 \text V \times 10^2 \text A= {10^2 \text A}\times {1.2\ \Omega}=\frac{12^2 \text V} {1.2\ \Omega} $),
* at **14 V** that same bed will draw 11.7 Amps (14 V / 1.2 Ω) resulting in a 163.3 Watt bed.
*Use at your own risk!*
What you could do to decrease time to heat the bed without changing the PSU or the voltage is to insulate the bottom of the heat bed with heat bed cotton sheets or cork (placemats from IKEA ;) ), put a sheet of cork onto the heat bed before printing and start heating the bed through the LCD panel of the printer or any attached printer controller programs over USB prior to printing.
# Answer
> 1 votes
A more powerful PSU only would solve the problem in two cases: Either your PSU is anemic and underpowered in the first place, or you want you'd separate the bed's power supply from the rest of the machine - by using a higher **Voltage** for the bed. This would however need you to regulate the heating by having the board control not the bed directly but, control a (Normally Open for safety!) MOSFET, which in turn throttles the power to the bed.
In that case, you can use the resistance R of the bed with whatever voltage your alternate PSU provides to get the power that is turned into heat from the bed using $P\_\text{bed}=\frac{U\_\text{bed}^2}{R\_\text{bed}}$. Our MOSFET can regulate the power that is turned into heat in the bed as it is a Variable Resistance: The total potential differential stays the same, but the voltage available to the heated bed is governed by the resistance of the bed and the MOSFET's resistance. Since the two are in line, they have the same Current flowing through them:
$$U\_\text{supply}=U\_\text{bed}+U\_\text{MOSFET}=I\_\text{total}\times(R\_\text{bed}+R\_\text{MOSFET})$$
That results in what is commonly called a Voltage Divider: the voltage that is available for the bed comes from a derivate of that: $$U\_\text{bed}=U\_\text{supply}(\frac{R\_\text{bed}}{R\_\text{MOSFET}+R\_\text{bed}})$$
## Why the hazzle?
Often, a board also might have a potentiometer for each power exit, and these are generally nothing else but variable resistances - and give us the same effect as a MOSFET for controlling the voltage available to a bed. If available, turning the Bed-Potentiometer a tiny bit will provide just a little higher voltage to the bed and allow slightly faster heating.
# Answer
> -1 votes
May I recommend an alternative approach, which does not require any change of hardware? The time required to heat the bed is not huge, so either via USB from your computer or from the front panel, instruct your printer to heat the bed first, while you're setting everything else up (loading gcode files, changing filaments, or whatever). This way tasks are completed in parallel.
# Answer
> -1 votes
I glued (high temperature silicone) an isolation (cork 5-8mm) on the bottom side of my heatbed. It avoids loosing heat thru the bottom side. Effect: minimal faster heatup and less energy consuming over the time of use.
# Answer
> -3 votes
Also a thing that helped to preheat faster: make sure no draft is cooling down bed. It sounds obvious but cold-end fan and window draft, even psu fan draft can contribute significantly to preheat time. Eliminating draft source changed bed preheat time from 10 down to 5 minutes in my case...
# Answer
> -4 votes
I hate to sound like the Toolman Tayler from that old TV show. "But, it comes down to More Power!" Power is the ability to do work (move a mass certain distance) within certain amount of time. Power = mass x distance x Time.
It can also be expressed in electrical terms, as the ability to heat something within certain amount of time. Power = Voltage x Current
Since most systems have a fixed voltage, it is still possible to increase power by increasing the current, since,
Voltage = Resistance x Current,
And Power = Voltage x Current,
So, Power = (Resistance x Current) x Current.
So by switching a power supply with the same voltage, but higher current, it will provide additional power to the system. The larger current available would be able to flow through the heating elements, heating them up faster.
However the caveat will be the amount of heat dissipation in the system, the large surface of the bed, will carry away enough of the heat due to air convection, that it may not make much of a difference. Or perhaps the heating element may not handle the larger amount of current and burn out.
It would be worth testing it out, in my humble opinion. Hopefully without causing a fire somewhere. :-)
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Tags: heated-bed, ramps-1.4, switching-power-supply
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thread-16065 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16065 | Which connector should I use between the power supply and the Einsy board? | 2021-04-10T08:39:04.950 | # Question
Title: Which connector should I use between the power supply and the Einsy board?
I am looking for a way to easily separate the wires between the power supply and the Einsy board of my Prusa Mk 3S+ with a connector. The power supply delivers 10 A at 24 V.
I thought about a YL wire-to-wire electrical connector as it can handle up to 7 A at 300 V. This should be enough since the two cables share the total load.
The 6 cables (4 power cables & 2 PSU power panic cables) have different diameters. Is it better to use one connector (6 pin) or two connectors (4 pin, 2 pin)?
# Answer
You could use XT30 or XT60 connectors to sepparate the PSU from the Einsy. I have done it myself a few years ago on 4 Prusa's and it is working great. But I've only got the +/- cables, no power panic though.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The YL connectors are rated for wires as small as AWG 26 (and as big as AWG 16). If the power panic wires are smaller than this (or the power supply wires larger) you will need to use a different connector for them. Otherwise, I do not see a problem with mixing different wire gauges in the same connector.
> 1 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, prusa-i3-rework, wire-type
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thread-16097 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16097 | How to setup PrusaSlicer to support long bridges | 2021-04-15T16:08:36.530 | # Question
Title: How to setup PrusaSlicer to support long bridges
Don't support bridge is a good idea to reduce support with acceptable print quality. But in this case, if I have a very long bridge and a short bridge, how do I tell the slicer to generate support only for the long bridge. How can I set some parameter like bridge length threshold?
# Answer
Regardless of the choice of long bridge support or short bridge support, Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 has a feature which allows forced support or allows forced no support.
In Advanced or Expert mode, there is an icon in the left tool bar for "paint-on" supports. The left mouse button paints on supports, while the right mouse button creates support blockers. Shift-left mouse button erases errant paint splatters.
There are more details in the linked video. It's not a parameter, but it is a means to determine where you want (or don't want) the supports.
According to a thread in the Prusa support forum, in order to have the enforcer and blockers operate as expected, configuration settings should be for supports off. This may have changed as the thread is older and may have been modified in newer releases.
> 4 votes
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Tags: slic3r, prusaslicer, bridging
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thread-16092 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16092 | Manual Color Changing | 2021-04-14T14:39:22.287 | # Question
Title: Manual Color Changing
Ive been experimenting will multiple color filament but the colors a more or less blended. Is there are filament that goes from one color directly to another without having transition color ex. red to green immediately.
I've been tinkering with Filament Hub Filament and it is very good (some of the best I've ever used) however I've had to essentially melt strands of one filament to the next and this is unsustainable.
Anyone know any filaments or methods to have an immediate color change
# Answer
> 3 votes
It takes at least a few cm of extrusion to purge the old color before switching to a new one due to mixing in the melt zone, and possibly much more depending on the particular pigments. If the old color is something bright like red and the new one is white or something close, it can even take many tens of cm before you get a clean new color.
Multi-color extrusion setups either use separate hotends per color or fancy retraction setups where each color can be retracted separately, along with purge towers. You cannot get a clean color switch in the print just by having one in the input filament, and this is probably why all the mixed color filament that's sold is blended - so customers don't get disappointed when it doesn't work like you expect.
# Answer
> 1 votes
> Anyone know any filaments or methods to have an immediate color change
There is a solution (or multiple) where you can have multi color filament without a gradual transition from one to the other color (seen from the filament side, not the extrusion/nozzle side), i.e. immediate color change. This requires an additional piece of equipment to do this automatically, or could be done even manually<sup>1)</sup>.
There are systems that calculate what color is needed for which part of the extrusion process and cut and pastes (welds) multiple colored strands of filament to a single strand of filament, see e.g.:
If you look closely, you see that the single filament strand is composed of various colored strands welded together (4 colors, fifth being welded).
Using multiple colors and single hotend wil require an extra extrusion of the new color to purge the hotend for a clean and crisp change. Slicers are already equipped to to this task for you, these are called purge towers, they print alongside the print and prevent too much blending of colors.
*Source Peter Leppik*
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<sup>1)</sup>*Note that an expensive device is not specifically necessary, with a little effort you can do it yourself. This requires slicing the part for multi colors (including a purge or printing purge tower to prevent mixing of colors) and parse the obtained G-code file to find all the respective lengths of the colors. These are easily found as a color change implies a tool changing script to be active in the G-code file, summing the individual lengths you could created your own filament by welding the individual colors together. Now remove the tool changes from the G-code file and you have created a "manual" multi-color print using a single hotend and extruder.*
# Answer
> 0 votes
When calling for a **manual** color change, Marlin is set up to allow to extrude extra filament. This is to ensure that the new filament is in the hotend, but it also allows to "purge" the old color from the hotend by extruding till no mixed color comes out anymore.
# Answer
> 0 votes
There is a way that you'd be able to do it but its not really conventional and could use up some filament:
Calculate out where you want it to stop. Then, when you want to change colors, you set your slicer to print a floating object in the air that isn't part of your print to purge out the old filament and prime the new one.
That way, when it goes back to the print, there won't be any of your old color. You will just have to pause the print when you get to the point where you want to change color, and make sure it's not over your print, then takeout the old filament, and put the new one in.
Then let it purge, and you can grab the string of filament before it goes to the print. Or just pluck it off when the print is done. This is the only way that I could see this working without multiple spools of filament and multiple extruders.
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Tags: 3d-models, filament, diy-3d-printer
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thread-16100 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16100 | First layer problem | 2021-04-15T19:01:55.743 | # Question
Title: First layer problem
I have Ender 3 v2 with BLTouch and Marlin 2.0.x software
There is a problem on the first layer it allows come wrong the last problem I have it is the first layer it is not constant on the bed it comes good in some area and the worst in other areas with BLTouch install any help why did that happen?
These parts are printed together:
Edit: this is photo after z hop the extrusion is not constant.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There could be multiple reasons for this happening, the most probable cause would be that the bed isn't leveled properly, if you have an auto leveling bed I'd suggest that you give that a run through, I also found it personally helpful with mine (Ender 5 Plus) that if I did the manual leveling, so the four corners, then go and do the auto leveling. Another thing could be that the tip is snagging on the print, so make sure you clean that, and its also helpful if you add z hop if your printer supports that (the extruder will hop up when its not pushing filament out
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Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, bltouch, adhesion
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thread-16103 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16103 | Heater cartridge extension wiring | 2021-04-16T02:32:46.070 | # Question
Title: Heater cartridge extension wiring
I recently bought a Titan Aero hot end which came with a 24 V 30 W heater cartridge from E3D. I'd like to use this but the cable length is only 1 meter long and I need it to be 2 meters. The ends terminate with prong connections and there is no polarity to the prongs. How can I safely extend the leads one meter and then connect to my Duet 3 Mainboard 6HC?
Should the cable terminate with a JST connector instead of the prongs to connect to the Duet board?
# Answer
# Heater polarity doesn't matter
The heater cartridges are just large resistors and so polarity is irrelevant. Either can be positive or negative.
You can extend the leads by cutting and splicing in ~20 gauge wires\* to a two pin JST connector line you suggest.
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*<sup>At 24 volts and 30 watts, you need wire that is rated to carry at least 1.25 amps. The US National Electric Code dictates that this should be 20 gauge wire, but their standard is very conservative. Since you don't need to adhere to NEC codes, you could get away with something thinner (ie higher gauge number).</sup>
> 3 votes
# Answer
1 meter puts you far enough away from the heater than you don't need high temperature wiring to extend it. The larger the guage(e.g. 20 guage) the less resistance you will add to the heater circuit. This doesn't matter as long as you can still achieve your maximum temperature (if you can still achieve the same current without maxing out your voltage on the heater).
Your sensor is where added series resistance is critical. Series resistance to the thermistor will give a negative error in the temperature.
> 2 votes
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Tags: hotend, wiring
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thread-16109 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16109 | Ender 3 V2 Z-axis base value changes for each print | 2021-04-16T20:02:02.580 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 V2 Z-axis base value changes for each print
I'm new to 3D printing, I just bought an Ender 3 V2 and I am having a lot of trouble with bed adhesion. After a lot of playing around it seems that the base value for Z is changing for every print.
I have been using this Z-offset test model, dialing in my Z-offset during the print until I hit an acceptable value (eg. -0.15)
If I then print the same model again, using the value I found above, it is way off again, and I have to dial it further down to maybe -0.40 and, if I repeat again, to 80.
I have, of course, tried leveling my bed multiple times
I've just been scribbling down numbers and seeing them fail for two days now, so any help is much appreciated.
# Answer
After tightening the screws on the X-axis gantry and doing the bed leveling and test prints again it seems to have gotten better.
Also, while I was under the impression that the V2's heated glass bed *should* work well without adhesive, I applied a bit of glue stick and now my first print seems to have a perfect first layer.
I may just have been confused because I needed to turn the Z-offset way down to get it to stick in the first place, and then tweaked it upwards to get nice lines, meaning I would have to dial it back down on next test print and so forth.
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, z-axis
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thread-14864 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14864 | How is my Prusa Mini damaging its X axis belt? | 2020-11-23T02:42:13.553 | # Question
Title: How is my Prusa Mini damaging its X axis belt?
I just received my new Prusa Mini a few weeks ago and at first it was great. But very soon a afterwards I started having small issues creep into my prints such as shapes becoming elongated, ridges on what should be a smooth surface, and skipped steps along the X axis.
Eventually the entire head carriage started making a thunking sound as it slid across the X axis. This was from the belt, having lost some of its teeth, slipping across the motor.
Here is a photo of the damage to the belt:
Prusa service was excellent and with a photo and my order number they shipped out a replacement immediately.
Swapping in the new belt fixed everything and I thought my problems were behind me. But within a day or two of printing I started noticing problems with my prints. Upon inspection, I found that my belt was again damaged:
I've tightened belts before on my other printer and have never seen anything like this.
I did notice that the belt provided by Prusa is thinner than the one on my other printer. But the Prusa belt seems to be of a higher quality with some kind of fiber blended into it:
The obvious answer is that I've overtightened the belt. But I've tightened belts before and never had this happen.
Interestingly, both belts failed at the exact same location. The position where the damage would be at the X axis motor puts the extruder roughly centered on the build plate.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I followed up with Prusa on this recently (a few months later) and they confirmed that there were issues with some belts but that this has been fixed in production.
To provide a better guarantee of quality, I opted to replace both the X and Y axis with genuine GATES 2GT PowerGrip GT3 belts. This has fixed the problem for me.
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Tags: belt, prusa-mini
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thread-16115 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16115 | PETG and Clear Aligner? | 2021-04-17T14:32:54.670 | # Question
Title: PETG and Clear Aligner?
There is a material called PETG. In addition, there is a medical solution called Clear Aligner to fix perplexed teeth.
Can I use a 3D printer using PETG and make transparent apparatus?
The program I use gives transparent apparatus, 3-dimensional output in STL format. Do I get results if I send the STL file to the printer?
# Answer
> 2 votes
# No
PETG is a material that can only be used in FDM machines. This precludes any internal medical use, as FDM prints can't be made sterile or even hygienic - the sterilization processes would destroy the print, and FDM layers create many spots for germs to grow. Atop that, you can't get the needed precision with FDM - which means any FDM prints are at best *waste* at worst **endangering the patient**!
In contrast, 3D printed metals and laser-printed nylon *can* be created and post-processed in ways that do not have layer lines. Resin prints do *not* have layer lines that offer these discrete hiding spots for germs. They all are made in a fashion that kills germs or disallows them from being embedded and they can be properly sterilized or made hygienic.
# No!
PETG can't be printed completely clear in FDM. By the processing method, air and layer boundaries are included, making prints at least somewhat opaque.
Only Resin prints can be fully transparent as they contain neither boundaries nor air.
# NO!!!
STL files contain only surface data and need to be processed into printer readable format. G-code is one of those formats, commonly used in FDM machines and CNC machines.
The processing from STL or other surface data into FDM-3D-printer G-code is done by a program called a slicer. Examples are Cura, PrusaSlicer, Slic3r, and many others.
Resin printers using DLP use different slicers that create images of the model's crossections together with some sort of machine code for the movement. For SLA machines, the code is entirely different again.
# Further Reading
I highly suggest you read more about 3D printing dental applications before trying anything for dental use, and especially **anything** that is printed for any medical application!
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Tags: petg, medical
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thread-16077 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16077 | Marlin is restarting when pins 5 Vcc are enabled and has a servo motor connected (RAMPS 1.4) | 2021-04-11T20:56:16.700 | # Question
Title: Marlin is restarting when pins 5 Vcc are enabled and has a servo motor connected (RAMPS 1.4)
My printer uses an ATMega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 shield, A4988 stepper drivers and a 2004 controller LCD interface. The PSU is 360 W (12 V, 30 A).
I bought a BLTouch for my printer, but when installing, Marlin is restarting and is unable to complete the boot.
I realized that this problem happens when it is being powered only by the PSU. When it is started by USB, it works normally.
Note, the USB + PSU combination, when the system (Marlin) has been started by USB, also works normally.
I tried to configure the servo in other positions (0, 1, 2 or 3), but the results were the same:
* USB starts = Ok
* PSU starts = infinite restart
Another possibility that I tested, was to change the BLTouch for a SG90 micro servo, to check if it was not a problem in the equipment. The result was the same:
* USB starts = Ok
* PSU starts = infinite restart
In fact there seems to be some problem between ATMega 2560 and the RAMPS 1.4, when powered by the PSU.
Does anyone know how to solve the problem? In the last case, would the exchange of ATMega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 be the solution?
# Answer
> 3 votes
PSU is only feeding 12 V into RAMPS, but (if I remember correctly) RAMPS is using Arduino's onboard regulator for converting 12 V to 5 V. That regulator can not provide much power.
If you connect some significant load to any 5 V pin (like servo, LCD backlight, or BLTouch), the regulator will be overloaded and its output voltage will drop (too low or unstable voltage will prevent Arduino from running correctly).
You can prove this hypothesis by measuring the voltage on any 5 V pin when Arduino is in "infinite restart". It will likely be far below 5 V.
Connecting USB helps because it provides additional power for 5 V rail (but you may be overloading the computer's USB port by doing this).
The solution is to get an external 12 V to 5 V regulator (with enough power, something like 3 A should be ok) and connect it between PSU and some 5 V pin on RAMPS. (Or get PSU that has both 12 V and 5 V output)
If you get an external 5 V supply, it may be a good idea to then completely disconnect RAMPS from Arduino's 5 V regulator. Have a look at https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,799595
Also, the regulator on the Arduino board will likely be overheating and may get damaged (But regulators usually have some overcurrent protection so it probably will be OK)
The regulator is located somewhere near the power connector on the Arduino Mega board, Google "AMS1117" if you don't know how it looks. Replacement is possible with intermediate soldering skills. The regulator is only used when powering Arduino from power connector or Vin pin (RAMPS uses the Vin pin). If powered from USB or 5 V pin, it can run without it.
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Tags: marlin, bed-leveling, ramps-1.4, bltouch
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thread-16113 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16113 | Prints are mirrored in X-axis and inverted in Y-axis direction | 2021-04-17T12:11:52.057 | # Question
Title: Prints are mirrored in X-axis and inverted in Y-axis direction
My custom 3D printer prints everything inverted. I guess this is a homing problem as the motor moves in correct direction.
In Pronterface,
* if I press -Y — bed moves forward (towards the Y endstop)
* if I press +Y — bed moves backward (away from Y endstop)
* if I press -X — hotend moves left (towards the X endstop)
* if I press +X — hotend moves right (away from the X endstop)
on RAMPS 1.4:
* X endstop is connected on the 1st pin
* Y endstop is connected on the 3rd pin
* Z endstop is connected on the 5th pin
(Pin 2, 4 & 6 are not used (are these for MAX\_ENDSTOP ?))
Below is my Marlin config
```
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
```
I have attached 3 photographs.
1. Shows the Home position of hotend. Y Motor on back and Y endstop at front.
2. Shows inverted print.
3. Pronterface screenshot (shows actual G-code file)
I tried flipping the motor cables, but that inverts the motor direction I also tried INVERT\_Y\_DIR true, but no luck.
Please help me. What am I doing wrong?
# Answer
> 1 votes
For most Cartesian printers, the homing position is at the front-left corner of the build plate. End-stop switches can be at either end of each axis (and even both), but the firmware must be configured accordingly.
A common arrangement is to have end-stop switches at X-min, Y-min and Z-min positions. You will see this on pretty much all budget printers, but things may be different on high-end machines. For the Y-axis on a cartesian machine, this mean placing the end-stop switch at the rear of the printer. A CoreXY machine on the other hand has the Y-min sensor on the front left corner.
So, unless your intentions were otherwise, you have simply got the Y-axis end-stop switch in the wrong position. For your design, it should be at the back of the printer, triggered by the bed in it's most backwards position. You will also need to reverse the direction of the Y-axis stepper motor, do that +Y moves the bed towards the operator (like you have it now).
If you want to have the end-stop switch at the front of the printer for some reason, you will need to re-configure the firmware accordingly - it is an Y-max sensor in that position!
# Answer
> 1 votes
Instead of changing firmware or changing the wiring, I flipped the motor direction. See the first photo below. Motor shaft was on the right side, now, the motor shaft is on left side, so the the bed moves backwards. I moved the Y endstop to back and now it prints fine.
only the problem is
In Pronterface,
```
if I press -Y -- bed moves backward (towards the Y endstop - new position)
if I press +Y -- bed moves forward (away from Y endstop - new position)
--- is this normal ?
```
---
Tags: marlin, diy-3d-printer, homing
--- |
thread-16124 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16124 | How can we control the airflow in a fan which can be 3D printed? | 2021-04-18T07:12:53.433 | # Question
Title: How can we control the airflow in a fan which can be 3D printed?
I am new to 3D Printing and I have taken up a summer project. The project requires a fan 3D Printed, If I use a normal fan the airflow will make my project (i.e. a air-propelled car) go backward. Can we modify a fan so that when the fans spin my car goes forward? If yes, how?
# Answer
> 0 votes
Look at your fan: it spins in one direction, and the blades push the air from one air to the other side. In fact, the fan is nothing but a propeller! There are ways to optimize them. The Rotation goes for example clockwise, the leading edge *grabs* the air and the trailing edge *releases* it on the other side, and if the leading edge is towards you, then the air is pushed away. In the simplest way, it would suffice to physically flip the fan around.
A 3D printed new fan would need to have the whole geometry of the fan blades "flipped" (mirrored around a non-rotational axis). Now the leading edge of the fan is away from you, the trailing edge on your side, the airstream is again from the leading to the trailing edge, and the air comes out on your side.
# cave!
Not all fans can be made to reverse the airflow by flipping the fan geometry: Radial fans just because less efficient.
Other fans can be made spinning backwards by swapping the polarity, but others use a simple diode setup and always spin their way. Also note that fans spinning backwards often suffer from reduced efficiency, as the blade geometry is optimized for one direction of spinning.
---
Tags: 3d-design
--- |
thread-15079 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15079 | What can I do to remove the rounded corners using Junction Deviation? | 2020-12-21T22:28:48.133 | # Question
Title: What can I do to remove the rounded corners using Junction Deviation?
I recently upgraded my Creality Ender 5 with an SKR Mini E3 V2.0 running Marlin 2.0.7.2. The printer has also been modified with an all-metal hotend and a direct drive conversion kit that uses the extruder stepper motor. In test prints of the XYZ calibration cube, I have found that the edges of the cube are rounded over. After some research, it appears this is due to either the acceleration/jerk settings or the junction deviation settings.
The issue now comes in that no matter what setting I change, the prints do not change. Currently in the Marlin firmware, I found that the Classic Jerk is disabled in Configuration.h line ~786. The default JUNCTION\_DEVIATION\_MM is 0.013. Since Classic Jerk is disabled, Junction Deviation shows up in the menu under Menu --\> Configuration --\> Advanced Settings. I printed 4 cubes for 4 different Junction Deviation settings: 0.013, 0.075, 0.130, 0.300. All cubes have the same characteristic over-corrected corner with no visible changes (Picture below)
My questions are:
* Why aren't the prints being affected by changing the Junction Deviation setting via the menu? The Junction Deviation setting is stored in memory using Menu --\> Configuration --\> Store Settings and I have confirmed the values remain in memory after cycling the printer.
* If Classic Jerk is disabled in Marlin firmware, would an M205 X\[Jerk\] Y\[Jerk\] Z\[Jerk\] command before a print enable Classic Jerk for that print?
* What happens if an M205 command is sent that sets XYZ as well as J? (e.g. M205 X\[Jerk\] Y\[Jerk\] Z\[Jerk\] J\[Dev\]). Would it ignore Classic Jerk values if Classic Jerk is disabled in firmware?
I have read through the following posts already
My next steps:
* Re-enable Classic Jerk in Marlin and see if the print behavior changes
* Other?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Contrary to what's implied by its name, *junction deviation* does not produce rounded corners. It merely allows violations of the acceleration profile at corners that would be allowed *if the corner were rounded* by the deviation. So you should not expect changes to it to create or eliminate unwanted "rounded corners".
However I don't think what you're seeing are rounded corners. They're *bulging* corners, likely produced as a consequence of the toolhead moving slower just before and after the corner in order to honor the acceleration profile. My guess is that your acceleration limits in Marlin 2.0 (500 mm/s² if I recall correctly) are a lot lower than on the original Creality firmware.
You can and probably should increase the acceleration limits. The machine should handle 1000 mm/s² easily and up to 3000 mm/s² or even higher with some ringing; I use lower acceleration for the outer walls and let it run wild for inner walls and infill. But the real solution to your bulging corners problem is to enable and calibrate Linear Advance to get a consistent extrusion rate with varing speed. For my Ender 3, the right constant is around 0.5-0.6 s (yes the units are seconds - it's mm/(mm/s)) for PLA. You can use the calibration pattern generator to run the calibration yourself, but I would expect the same results.
This will significantly impact your print speed, since Marlin applies E-axis speed, acceleration, and jerk limits to the advance offsets. You can get a lot of it back though by increasing those limits though; the defaults are a whole lot lower than what the machine can handle. 200 mm/s speed limit and 10000-15000 mm/s² acceleration limit (vs 25 and 5000 defaults in Marlin, respectively) are within reason.
# Answer
> 1 votes
When a junction deviation is set too low it will mess up every other thing you have been trying to do to perfect your extrusion.
It messes up
* retraction,
* linear advance,
* s-curve,
* the entire print.
I had been messing around with my jerk and acceleration values, my retraction values, and my linear advance values, and no matter what I did, nothing fixed the actual issues. I even gave up on Bowden and tomorrow a Hemera direct drive will be delivered.
Now I found this setting in my printer menu, changed the value from 0.017 to 0.2 and those bulging corners are now gone (in fact I had to up my linear advance a bit because it was actually rounding off the corners making them too thin).
The stringing is gone now as well (low jerk on retraction and you might as well not retract at all).
Seriously, unless you are using a CNC or CoreXY, I don't see why you would even use junction deviation.
As to why nothing is changing for you, this is because other settings are bad as well. So it's still slowing down too much in the corners while material is still oozing out.
---
Tags: marlin, creality-ender-5, skr-mini-e3
--- |
thread-16130 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16130 | Creating a 3D modelled "mold over" an imported object | 2021-04-19T11:44:08.293 | # Question
Title: Creating a 3D modelled "mold over" an imported object
Let's say I've made a 3D scan of my face and managed to get that into FreeCAD. How might I then create an object (it's a mask, okay?) that conforms to the shape of my face, with a given thickness, such that I can export and 3D-print that part only?
So if I printed it, it would fit over my face, but still look like my face from the outside, too. It would be, say, 3mm thickness througout.
To be clear, I'm not looking to make a 3D model of my head (the world does not need such a thing), or 3D model of a mold that I can use to replicate my head. I just want to make parts that conform to the shape of other, complex, parts.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Instead of using FreeCAD, I would import the mesh data into a vertex-based 3D modeling software, such as blender.
After stitching the model in any areas where you still have gaps, you remove any vertex belonging to areas you do not want to use for the mask. This leaves you with pretty much a skin-tight base for your mask. Select all the remaining surfaces and scale `S` them in all directions in regards to the origin so you create a little airgap 5% extra (`1.05`) should create enough space to sit somewhat comfortably, but you might prefer a little more. As a stand-in for the face, I use this approximation of a forehead...
Next, we thicken that surface using the modifier menu: Select the Solidify modifier and set a `thickness` that looks good to you and that might be printable. Then make sure it pushes *away* from where your face is. Also make sure the Offset is at `1` or `-1` to ensure that it does not stick out from the face-scan surface to the back!
Now you got a perfect base to model on the outside of using the sculpt features while retaining the inner surface! Do yourself a favor though: print at least part of this model as a test fit and adjust the mask as needed.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It depends on the software you're using, but here is an example with TinkerCad.
Step 1: Import your 3D model (imagine that the ball is a head):
Step 2: Change its type from "Solid" to "Hole"
Step 3: Create a "Solid" box around your imported model.
Here is the inverted Solid/Hole version:
Here is the Solid version with the Hole model inside your Solid box:
Step 4: Select both models and group them:
Step 5: Add a box covering half of your mold (ideally splitting it in half):
Step 6: Duplicate the mold and the box
Step 7: Group the left mold with its surrounding box:
Step 8: Invert the box of the left mold by taking its left corner and dragging it over to the right side of the mold:
Step 9: Group the right box and the mold.
Step 10: You now have two molds for each half of your model:
Based on your comment, I'm adding a couple more steps:
Step 11: Take your cast, duplicate it, enlarge the duplicate, make it a hole and fit it over your cast (like so):
Step 12: Group the left cast with the larger "Hole" copy:
And if you're going to 3D print it and fit it over the old model, then you might want to enlarge the cast by a few mm.
It's now up to you to figure out how to clamp the molds, inject them, and then separate them.
A few things to keep in mind:
1. You might want to play with the placement of the model inside the mold a little better so it's not at the bottom of the mold but more towards the middle.
2. You could also get a bit more creative with the joining of the two molds by adding channels or some kind of way that they can fit into each other with greater precision. Here is an example: .
3. If the parts are more complex, then the cast will be more challenging and might require to be split into more parts.
Good luck! :)
---
Tags: 3d-models, blender, freecad
--- |
thread-16138 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16138 | Best filament to use in high humidity environment? | 2021-04-20T02:58:07.433 | # Question
Title: Best filament to use in high humidity environment?
I'm working on a project to design some custom 3D printed parts for an indoor urban farm where the environment has a very high humidity of above 80%. What would be the best filament to use that will be able to handle this conditions. Are there any coatings that I can use to protect the parts from absorbing moisture?
# Answer
> 7 votes
You don't provide information about the part, but in general PETG, ABS, ABS plus/Pro and ASA are not going to have any issue with humidity for a long time. If it's outdoor, avoid ABS and use PETG or ASA.
What is important is to keep the filament dry BEFORE printing. After printing, no problem. In fact, nylon after printing can be wet on purpose to significantly increase impact strength (and reduce tensile strength).
PLA in high humidity environment may lose some of its strength, but there are PLA parts under the rain which hold perfectly for long time, if they are not loaded significantly.
---
Tags: filament, filament-choice
--- |
thread-13614 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13614 | Z offset in Marlin is not working recently | 2020-05-06T22:04:37.353 | # Question
Title: Z offset in Marlin is not working recently
My printer is ignoring the "Z offset" setting in Cura and the "Bed Z" stored in the printer LCD settings? It has been working before but after a firmware update of my printer, it doesn't work. Even after flashing the previous firmware back "Bed Z" changes no longer affect anything. No matter if I change "Bed Z" during prints or if I use the "Z offset" option in Cura, the nozzle still prints at the same height.
# Answer
> 1 votes
## Z offset in Cura
Z offset in Cura is nothing more than an additional increase/decrease in height calculated throughout the whole file. This does require the installment of a plugin from the Ultimaker Cura "Marketplace" called "Z Offset Setting" by developer "fieldOfView". This should work (if not, this implies the plugin is defective, version 3.5.7 appears to work as it should which is the latest version to date), the G-code is parsed (as in post-processed) by the plugin to recalculate all Z values (a redefinition of the Z level with `G92` might have been a lot easier...), as an example an object is sliced without an offset, a negative offset (-0.333 mm) and a positive offset (0.333 mm) below. The layer numbered `;LAYER:0` will start printing at:
No offset:
```
G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z0.27
```
Negative offset:
```
G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z-0.063 ;adjusted by z offset
```
Positive offset:
```
G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z0.603 ;adjusted by z offset
```
## Z offset in firmware
A Z offset is the distance between the nozzle and the build plate surface that is needed for good adhesion. This is obtained from levelling the bed putting a piece of A4/Letter paper in between the nozzle and build plate during levelling of the bed. Basically this is an offset from the endstop position. Using the menu of a Marlin operated printer you can manually adjust this value e.g. during printing of the first layer by turning the jog dial for Z babystepping. The paper levelling method is a manual/mechanical Z offset that can be extended with the value changed by the menu. When storing such an offset you basically change the offset from the endstop position, this can be done with G-code `M206`. Storing the value to be retained for future prints, the value needs to be stored to memory (using G-code `M500` or an equivalent save settings from the menu of the printer controller).
*Note this offset is something different when using a Z probe. The Z probe offset in firmware is set by `M851` or `G29.1`, depending on the used firmware.*
# Answer
> 0 votes
I have the same problem. You need to check your G-code to detect where's the problem.
Try comparing the G-code file with different values of the Z offset.
In my case it looks like this:
No offset
```
;LAYER_COUNT:107
;LAYER:0
M106 S255
G1 F300 Z0.84
G0 F6000 X124.645 Y78.208 Z0.84
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F300 Z0.44
G1 F1500 E0
```
With offset (comments made by Cura)
```
;LAYER_COUNT:107
;LAYER:0
M106 S255
G1 F300 Z2.06 ;adjusted by z offset
G92 Z0.84 ;consider this the original z before offset
G0 F6000 X119.093 Y42.498 Z0.84
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F300 Z0.44
```
I hope this helps.
---
Tags: marlin, ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-16149 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16149 | Ender 3 Pro, Motherboard v4.2.7, Marlin 2.0.1 Firmware reset | 2021-04-21T17:12:48.047 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro, Motherboard v4.2.7, Marlin 2.0.1 Firmware reset
Upgrading motherboard to v4.2.7 How do I reset the firmware after making wrong mods?
# Answer
You could download the firmware version directly from the vendor and choose the one that is supposed to be on the board when it was shipped to you.
Put the bin file on the SD card from your laptop/computer and reinsert the SD card in the printer and start the printer.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware
--- |
thread-16152 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16152 | My Monoprice Select Mini v2 isn't pushing out filament and it isn't the nozzle | 2021-04-21T22:01:21.840 | # Question
Title: My Monoprice Select Mini v2 isn't pushing out filament and it isn't the nozzle
The printer isn't pushing out filament.
I'm using the filament that came with the printer, and I know it's not the nozzle. I've tried to get the metal piece surrounding that goes from the Bowden connector to the extruder off, but I can't seem to.
Are there any ways to fix this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The push to release connection on the top of the heat sink may be secured with thread lock adhesive, but you should not have to remove it. Push the blue ring downward while pulling upward on the bowden tubing. It may be necessary to work it up and down while you push down on the blue locking fitting. I have to use a pair of pliers to hold the blue ring down while wiggling the bowden tube up and down, as it is rather tiny.
Once you have the tubing removed, check for high friction in the now-released bowden tube. Push filament from the extruder drive mechanism and observe how easily it passes through the tube to the open end. If you do not experience clogging, the problem resides in the heat sink/heat break/heater block area.
It's not uncommon for the nozzle to have an excessive gap between the heat break and the nozzle. This will allow for cooled filament to jam, preventing normal feeding.
From the Prusa support site:
Notice that the collet is visible in the photo and appears to hold a longer section of PTFE tubing. It should enter your heat sink until it bottoms against the recess cut into the metal. If it does not, you have the possibility (slim) of jamming in that locations.
Notice also that the nozzle is not flush against the heater block. The heatbreak is threaded into the block with the nozzle slightly lower than flush. This ensures a proper flow from the entry point to the nozzle. If it is not properly secured at either end, the heat break can bulge with filament that cools and creates the jam.
---
Tags: extrusion, monoprice-select-mini
--- |
thread-11974 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11974 | Methylated spirits or turpentine to clean resin printer? | 2020-02-08T01:23:44.070 | # Question
Title: Methylated spirits or turpentine to clean resin printer?
I'm new to 3D printing and have bought a resin printer.
Cleaning with **Isopropol Alcohol** seems to be the rage, however I think this is unaware of cost savings. It appears **methylated spirits** is ok and is 25% the cost of Isopropol Alcohol.
I'm now down to wondering if I should buy methylated spirits or **turpentine** (I ruled out **kerosene** as too flammable)? I'm leaning towards methylated spirits, however would like input.
**Factors** I'm curious about:
1. Cost: same for methylated spirits and turpentine.
2. Evaporation/solvency: ?
3. Flammability: ?
4. Poisonous levels: ?
5. Resin object cleaning effect: ?
6. Skin effects: ?
7. Smell: ?
I checked a few sources.
# Answer
I would personally stick to isopropanol. Be aware that 3D printing is a very expensive hobby, but health wise this is a better option. Methylated spirits can quickly become dangerous, and often can burn with a close to invisible flame, meaning that you may not even see if it is burning. Also, the fumes can quickly become dangerous, whereas after years of dealing with isopropanol I have noticed no ill effects. Cost should not be your primary concern, health of you and your printer should be.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Are you for real?
Isopropyl alcohol is less dangerous to your health than ethanol with a touch of denaturant?
Seriously read the MSDS sheets for the products and know what's in them before you say stuff.
The amount of MEK or MIBK is so small.
Some and not many methylated spirits have a small fraction of methanol but so little that it is safe to work with.
Why would they sell methylated spirits in the supermarket and not IPA if it was more dangerous?
Personally, I would read the SDS/MSDS sheet for the metho if you are worried and find one that is only denatured with Bitrex but to be honest I doubt there will be a health issue any more so than IPA with any of them.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: post-processing, sla, resin, dlp, cleaning
--- |
thread-16155 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16155 | Difference in weight from Cura to printed model | 2021-04-22T07:44:42.337 | # Question
Title: Difference in weight from Cura to printed model
I've recently switched to PETG , and I'm using Cura as slicer and Ender 3 as printer.
I'm printing a model which Cura declares to be **35 g**, but if I weigh the printed model it weighs **23 g**.
I'm printing with just 1 line of skirt, so its weight is negligible on total weight. I've replaced the stock plastic extruder with a double gears metal extruder (3Dman 11 Dual Gear Extruder ).
I've also replaced the stock springs with metals ones.
I'm not having a quality problem, just I want to understand if this difference is caused by a bad configuration that could be improved.
Which are the corrections/checks that I need to do in my setup (both printer and Cura) for fixing this difference?
# Answer
> 3 votes
The density of the filament can be specified in the material model of the filament in Cura (Preferences -\> Configure Cura... -\> Materials and click on the material/filament you are using to slice your model for PETG), look at the value behind *Density*, the PETG filament I use is using 1.28 g/cm³ (PETG Economy Black -\> Specification \>).
This field is user editable, so you can change it to your needs. Cura calculates the weight based on the deposited volume.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Likely underextrusion. The Ender 3's extruder is particularly bad at PETG and slips a lot unless you go really slow, like 3 mm³/s (about 40 mm/s at 0.2 mm layers and 0.4 mm line width) or lower.
For a long time I thought this was a limitation of the material, at least without a really powerful hotend, and wondered why anyone liked it. But after replacing the extruder on my Ender 3 with one that grips the filament much better (among other differences) I can extrude at several times that rate with no extrusion issues.
My extruder has a lot of differences from the stock Creality one that might be making a difference. It's (remote) direct drive, has a cut-out hobbed gear that wraps partly around the filament tensioned rigidly rather than with a spring, and has net 10:1 reduction gearing. I suspect the hobbed gear configuration makes the biggest different to increased PETG printing capability but I'm not sure. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, petg
--- |
thread-16154 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16154 | Random hot-end temperature spikes | 2021-04-22T01:02:18.357 | # Question
Title: Random hot-end temperature spikes
I've been having issues with thermal runaways lately due to random temperature spikes on my Ender 3.
I figured it was out of calibration so I did a PID tune and still had issues. I then replaced the thermistor and I'm still having issues. I'm going to try replacing the heater element tonight.
However, if anyone has some suggestions, please let me know.
# Answer
It looks like a sensor issue. Maybe a temporary resistance in a contact of the sensor circuit made the temperature look low to the controler, so it applies power to raise the temperature. When the contection recovers, the temperature is too high, so the controller lowers the power to restore the temperature.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: hotend, thermal-runaway
--- |
thread-13692 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13692 | OctoPrint won't stop my print with a pause | 2020-05-18T10:19:50.320 | # Question
Title: OctoPrint won't stop my print with a pause
Using the PrusaSlicer I discovered that we are able to insert a pause in mid print.
I wanted to use such feature to insert a lens in my print so I don't have to glue 2 parts to make my magnifying glass.
But unfortunately the print didn't stop at the specified layer. Trying to manually pause the printer from the LCD didn't worked either.
The only way to stop my print is to print from the SD card instead of using OctoPrint.
Is there a pre-requisite to be able to trigger a pause from the G-code using OctoPrint?
Apparently PrusaSlicer insert an `M601` command, maybe this had to be somewhat changed to another G-code command?
My 3D printer is an Ender 3 with an alternative 32-bit board : BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3 V1.2
I'm using the stock firmware : `firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing.bin`
I tried to look into the `Configuration.h` to see if there was a pause feature to enable but I didn't see it.
I've tried to pause, it didn't even trigger automatically when printing from the SD card... Maybe I need to tell the slicer to issue another G-code that is not `M601`...
# Answer
If you want to pause at the Octoprint command streaming level rather than at the printer level, have your slicer emit the Octoprint `@pause` command rather than real gcode for pause. This will cause it to go into the paused state and not send any further commands until you hit resume.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: g-code, octoprint, bigtreetech
--- |
thread-13412 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13412 | Why does PETG require slower speed? | 2020-04-14T13:13:00.820 | # Question
Title: Why does PETG require slower speed?
PLA has a heat capacity of 1.8-2.1 J/g-K, while PETG 1.1-1.3 J/g-K. This means that each gram of PLA needs more energy to heat up. I assume no "melting latent energy", since we talk about plastics.
The density is about the same.
Still, printing speed for PETG is said to be kept at max at 60 mm/s, while PLA can easily go up to 100 mm/s.
Why is PETG supposed to be printed slower than PLA?
Edit: a link to a more recent question may be of interest: Power consumption of filament extrusion
# Answer
I'm adding this answer to somewhat challenge the findings of my original answer, and the premise of the question: PETG does not need lower print speeds, and can even be printed at higher speeds than PLA under some conditions due to reduced need for cooling. You can see this from some of the "#speedboatrace" entries printed with PETG. So what was really going on with the original claim and my agreement with it?
I think my original answer is still somewhat true: it's likely that it takes more hotend power to melt PETG at a rate that can be successfully extruded *and bonded* than to do the same for PLA. But there are other factors at play in the perception that "PETG has to be printed slow".
FarO did not specify details of the printer(s) in question, but I found the big limiting factor for my Ender 3 printing PETG was the stock extruder, which presumably was skipping bad to begin with, and even worse with Linear Advance, trying to keep the filament under high pressure to compensate for its compressibility. Since replacing the extruder with a direct drive one, I've had no problem printing PETG at the same speed as PLA, and both can print much faster than I ever could with the stock bowden extruder.
> 4 votes
# Answer
The density of PLA is around 1.25 g/cm³ and the density of PETG is around 1.38 g/cm³. When you're talking about the amount of energy needed to melt a particular *volume* (which is what your extrusion units are) rather than mass, you need to scale the heat capacities (with units of $\frac{\mathrm J}{\mathrm g\cdot \mathrm K}$) by the density to get $\frac{\mathrm J}{\mathrm{cm}^3\cdot \mathrm K}$. This brings their volumetric heat capacities somewhat closer: 2.25-2.63 vs 1.52-1.79 (about 47 % higher for PLA rather than your figure of about 62 %), but with PLA still higher.
You also have to account for heat loss to the environment. PLA is typically printed around 200 °C or 210 °C at most; PETG in my experience requires 250 °C to reach low enough viscosity to be printable at any speed. Assuming an ambient 20 °C, the rate of heat loss should be something like 25 % higher for PETG. So the hotend has that much additional energy needed to begin with.
Beside that, PLA is printed at temperatures where it's still extrudable and able to bond even if the temperature drops significantly below the nominal nozzle temperature (down to 180 °C, maybe even slightly lower), whereas PETG has trouble with increased viscosity and poor bonding right away if temperature drops.
Going broader still, PETG seems to need to keep its heat longer after being extruded in order for layers to bond well. (As evidenced by the need to lower fan or turn it off completely.) A slow-moving nozzle both provides heat (from the proximity of the nozzle itself) to slow the cooling, and reduces air flow across the part (by not causing as much air flow itself just by moving).
> 3 votes
---
Tags: pla, print-material, petg
--- |
thread-16163 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16163 | Is 3D printing really just 2D printing? Because only 2 motors move per layer | 2021-04-23T01:59:38.850 | # Question
Title: Is 3D printing really just 2D printing? Because only 2 motors move per layer
I was wondering the other day why don't all three motors move at the same time? Don't normal paper printers move 2 motors at a time? they're 2D printers. It makes sense if a 3D printer really does print with *all* three motors moving. Won't it also be more efficient if they do 3D print in all axes?
# Answer
> 2 votes
> I was wondering the other day why don't all three motors move at the same time?
That is perfectly possible for most printers (with limitations, "3D Printing" with all steppers being used is called "non-planar" printing), but there are some major cons you need to deal with. First, there are not that many software suites that slice objects perfectly well like the "normal" per "fixed/variable layer height" slicing as the slicers are under developed. Second, it requires a specific tall and slender nozzle/print head, else the height of printing is very limited. Last, besides generally not being useful for rectangular prints (except for 90° overhanging structures<sup>1)</sup>), this method is only/best suitable for curved objects as the top layer will follow the contours of the object.
> It makes sense if a 3D printer really does print with all three motors moving.
No, it does not make sense, the essentials of 3D printing it that it produces a 3D object, not that all stepper motors should be running simultaneously.
> Won't it also be more efficient if they do 3D print in all axes?
Not necessarily, there are limitations to non-planar printing like geometry and print quality, but, you could (in some cases) print with less support material.
---
<sup>1)</sup> : From Rene K. Mueller, published March 3, 2021, https://xyzdims.com:
*Note that these are **demonstration** pieces, normally you would rotate the print for 90° and print it sliced normal (planar).*
# Answer
> 2 votes
Frame challenge: is it just 1D printing? Each G1 command moves linearly in a single one dimensional affine subspace of the build volume.
What makes 3D printing 3D is that the resulting object produced is three dimensional. There are indeed a lot of advances to be made in FDM printing by not working only within constant-Z cross sections at a time, but these are matters of surface quality/accuracy and the classes of geometry that are printable, not efficiency.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The Z axis moves between each layer so you are indeed printing in the 3rd dimension. There are some techniques that move all three axis at the same time.
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Tags: 3d-design, mechanics
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thread-16171 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16171 | Printer with 50 microns or close to 50 micron (z resolution) | 2021-04-23T11:28:07.917 | # Question
Title: Printer with 50 microns or close to 50 micron (z resolution)
We're thinking of buying a PETG-powered printer. When researching printers available on the market, there are machines with a 100 microns. I was wondering if there are machines with a 50 microns or close to 50 micros? Otherwise, why not?
# Answer
PETG is a material type that is **only** available for Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) type printers. Those are limited in their achievable resolution by their nozzle size:
* the Smallest depression in a surface that is printable is about half a line width in XY and 1 layer height in Z.
* the smallest bulge from a flat surface that can reliably be produced by FDM is in the area of one line width in XY and 1 layer height in Z.
* The minimum thickness of an item to be printable is one line width.
* The maximum layer height in Z is 3/4 of the nozzle width.
* Optimal line width is 1.1 Nozzle diameters.
* That all is the *theoretical* limit, as machine movements and such push this minimum up by a factor of at least 1.5 and more likely 2-3, depending on how much your machine is tuned.
The smallest available nozzles that doesn't require specialty extruders are 0.2 mm. That means the absolute minimum detail that could in theory be reproduced on a surface of enough thickness is a 0.1 mm depression using a design similar to this picture:
As a result: **NO** FDM with PETG is not a solution to your requirements, you want reliable 0.05 mm resolution in XYZ, which is the area of Resin printers, especially DLP and SLA, but also Stratasys PolyJet can achieve this at the moment.
Estimating from your *other* questions (like this), I **still** suggest looking at a resin-based system that has materials that are certified for medical use!
> 2 votes
# Answer
I assume you mean a resolution of 50 microns (0.05 mm step size) Most FDM printers can produce something useful upto 100 microns. If you want to print with more precision, try resin printers. The reason for this is that an FDM printer uses an extruder with a specific nozzle diameter (typically around 0.4mm and minimum around 0.25 mm). plastic has too much viscosity to fit through a smaller diameter nozzle easy.
> 2 votes
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Tags: desktop-printer, resolution
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thread-16168 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16168 | How to create an air-free design? | 2021-04-23T07:34:29.187 | # Question
Title: How to create an air-free design?
I am creating a bottlecap-like design. The design is sealed by rotating the lid. I am adding a chemical to it for an experiment. I would like the inside of the design to have no air circulating to it through the lid tiny spaces.
My design:
Are there any simple solutions I can implement out there? Design-wise, material-wise, or maybe an extra piece?
# Answer
> 2 votes
> Are there any simple solutions I can implement out there?
A gasket made of rubber or other elastic or deformable material is probably the best option. Printing one or both of the parts using a deformable material like TPU might also work. Finally, if you don't need to open the unit during the experiment, you could use a sealant like silicone caulk might make sense.
---
Tags: 3d-design
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thread-15873 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15873 | Prusa MK3 heatbed shorted: replace just Einsy or heatbed too? | 2021-03-16T02:28:30.623 | # Question
Title: Prusa MK3 heatbed shorted: replace just Einsy or heatbed too?
Prusa MK3 heatbed power cable shorted out (on the Einsy side) and it looks like I need to replace the Einsy. Should I replace the heatbed too? I don’t know electronics well and am worried I will just fry a new Einsy.
Heatbed end:
Crispy at RAMBo end:
Crispy at RAMBo end:
Larger images can be found here.
# Answer
There should be no need to replace the heat bed. It wasn't subjected to any unusual loads.
If the bed isn't heating, there could be one of sever problems, but I would start with the fuse. If the fuse had time to do its job, it would have blown and protected the circuitry. In your picture, the fuse is the blue component with "15" stamped on top. There are also two fuses with "5" stamped on top. One of these may be blown. If so, replace it and try again.
If the fuses are all good, and everything except the heat bed works, you have probably blown the FET that switches the heat bed power. If you aren't handy with circuit board repair, you may choose to get an new Einsy controller and then try to repair your old one. These repairs aren't usually hard because the FETs are fairly large components.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I don't think that the heated bed would be damaged if the connecting wire shorted out. The heatbeb is basically one large resistor. It has a couple of surface mount LEDs that lights up red when the bed is powered for heating, but there should not be other sensitive components on the board.
The greater concern I have from your attached photos, is the cause of the 'short'. Unless there was fraying or other loose wires that could have bridged the terminals, your problem might have been a loose connection that created resistance at the interface layer which then caused that specific connection to heat up. The voltage is not high enough to cause sparks across the gap.
The additional heat and electrical instability might have fried your Einsy. You don't mention if the printer starts when you power it up, but I assume that you are considering replacing parts because the printer is not working.
If you have access to a multimeter you can just measure the resistance across the wires of the heatbed. If it is broken you will see an open connection on the multimeter, but if you see Ohms in the 1-100 Ohm range (don't know the specific resistance of a disconnected heatbed), it means the board should be OK.
> 1 votes
# Answer
You do not need to replace the heated bed. However, you should replace the damaged fork connector. What happened here is that the connector did not make a proper connection with the terminal block (perhaps due to the screw working itself loose) and heated up. There is no reason to suspect anything else is damaged, but the connector itself is clearly damaged. If you do not replace the connector, it may again make a poor connection and heat up.
Replacing the entire Einsy board is not strictly necessary. The only damaged component is the terminal block. You should consider soldering the wires from the heated bed directly to the Einsy, bypassing the terminals entirely. This is arguably a better solution since a soldered connection is more reliable than one using a terminal block. You can simply solder the wires on the back of the board.
> 1 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, heated-bed, electronics
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thread-14004 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14004 | What can cause Z height loss in the first few layers? | 2020-07-03T10:06:06.487 | # Question
Title: What can cause Z height loss in the first few layers?
All my prints come out about 1 mm too short in the Z dimension. So for example a 20 mm cube comes out 19 mm high. A 10 mm cube comes out 9 mm high. The X and Y dimensions are fine. There's a little bit of visible elephant's foot at the bottom, so I assume whatever is happening is in the first couple of layers. The problem is fairly consistently around 1 mm even for larger prints.
The printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed and BLTouch for automatic leveling, but otherwise stock.
I had a similar issue with another Ender 3 Pro that was resolved thanks to a link to this question about problems in the first 3 mm. The solution was turning the eccentric nuts on the left and right to loosen the rollers that connect the X-axis gantry to the vertical posts. There the Z issue was not as pronounced, and I was getting really messy prints in the first few Z layers. Here that is not an issue; the first few layers look fine while they're printing. Loosening the rollers did not resolve it.
Things I've tried:
* Tightening and loosening the gantry rollers using the eccentric nuts. They're currently just tight enough that turning them moves the gantry, but loose enough that I can turn them without moving the gantry if I hold it still.
* Tightening and loosening the two little screws that attach the extruder mount to the Z-axis lead screw. Currently I made them just tight, then backed off 1/4 turn.
* Adding a shim between the vertical post and the Z-axis lead screw. The lead screw is now pretty much parallel to the post.
* Slowly turning the lead screw by hand to raise and lower the gantry. There's no noticeable catching or increased resistance anywhere.
* Varying the brand and type of PLA filament.
* Varying the temperature from 190 °C to 210 °C.
* Obsessively leveling and re-leveling the bed. Manually leveling, auto leveling with the BLTouch, and adjusting the z-offset.
I'm using the stock Ender 3 Pro profile in Cura, and printing at 0.2 mm layer height. I've kind of run out of things to check. What else can cause Z height loss in the first few layers like this?
# Answer
Do you have any “slop” on the right side (non motor) of the gantry?
I’ve noticed that my gantry will settle on the right side and lag behind the motor driven - ever so slightly - when it starts to drive up. It will, after that first lag, move fine for the rest of the time. Z axis travel seems barely affected but all my prints are consistently about 0.5 mm short.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I have the exact same issue on my Ender 3 V2, perfect bed level using a dial gauge, perfect first layer test prints (printing 9 squares all 1 layer high).
I can only get rid of it two ways:
1. Using a Raft as you have said (annoying).
2. Adjusting the Z-height Just exactly as the 1st layer finishes. I raise the height by 0.15-0.20 mm (in my case), and the resulting elephant foot is about 80-90 % better.
I recommend you follow Luke Hatfields guide on Ender 3 rework for The X-Gantry, as well as his other sections. Youtube channel "Edge Of Tech" does a decent job covering the rework in video form. Following most of these reworks I have made everything else in the print absolutely perfect, unfortunately EF remains.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, pla, calibration, z-axis, glass-bed
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thread-16180 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16180 | Adequate default filament diameter for Anycubic Mega X | 2021-04-24T23:16:45.253 | # Question
Title: Adequate default filament diameter for Anycubic Mega X
Does anybody if the Anycube Mega X comes with a nozzle for 1.75 mm filaments or is it 2.85 mm? I saw online that it works with 1.75 mm filaments but the Cura settings given by the manufacturer had 2.85 mm.
I should mention that using a 1.75 mm filament works BUT my designs have clear under-extrusion, which is very likely caused by having 2.85 mm in the settings. So at this moment, I am trying to gauge whether to change the settings to 1.75 mm or buying 2.85 mm filaments (this only works if the Mega X comes with the appropriate nozzle).
# Answer
> 1 votes
Reading all 49 pages of the manual was fruitless. I'm astonished that there is no reference to the filament diameter used in this printer.
From 3dJake's web site comes a confirmation that the printer uses 1.75 mm filament.
It's not a matter of changing a nozzle to use 2.85 mm filament, as the entire filament path is based, in this printer, on the 1.75 mm specification.
To find 3Djake's site, I used "anycubic mega x filament diameter" as the search terms. Many other links appeared, confirming the 1.75 mm filament size.
# Answer
> 0 votes
This is a well-known problem with Cura. The filament diameter is set to 2.85 mm by default (probably because Ultimaker printers use 2.85 mm filament). This will cause extreme under-extrusion if your printer uses 1.75 mm filament. Simply change the filament diameter to 1.75 mm in Cura's printer definition, and everything should be fine.
Older versions of Cura would reset the filament diameter to 2.85 mm if you installed an update or new release, but I think the Ultimaker have fixed that annoying little bug.
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Tags: filament, nozzle, filament-choice
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thread-16141 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16141 | What is the best way to adhere an old printed part to the bed? | 2021-04-21T04:08:50.807 | # Question
Title: What is the best way to adhere an old printed part to the bed?
I am currently trying to print a company logo on another part I have printed in a different colour. To try and maximise the strength of the part, I need to print the part on a different orientation to what I intend on printing the logo on. As a result I need to in a sense re-adhere the part to the bed so I can print the logo. I am using PLA filament on a spring steel sheet (the default sheet with a Prusa Mini).
Any ideas would be appreciated before I accept defeat and just glue the parts together.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I have not done this, but I believe this is the best method and I want to test it at some point soon:
Model a negative for the footprint of the part you want to adhere to the bed, in the orientation you want to adhere it, with just a few mm of height, and clearance suitable for your printer (probably around 0.25 mm) in the XY plane, and print that with thick extrusions on the initial layer so that it adheres well to your bed. It should look exactly like a "thickened brim" for the part you want to re-adhere. Don't let the bed cool after printing it.
Now, you have a slot to insert your part into that will not only hold it to the bed, but holds it to particular coordinates you chose to print at, which you can align to the coordinates of the new model you want to print on top of it.
If you can't get the clearances right to hold without knocking off the negative footprint from the bed, you could try adding some threaded holes to it, so that you can put a couple set screws through it to hold the part in place. This technique can also be used if you want to avoid modeling a full negative (e.g. if you don't have the original in CAD form where you can easily negative it) - just print a few posts to hold set screws in approximately the right places on the bed.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Adherence is the 3D printer's worst enemy.
I use painter's tape, but I heard that you can if you need to remove and re-stick it back, heat the part lightly with a lighter and re-stick it back to the bed. Never tried but I'm guessing you would need to cool the bed, heat the part, and stick it back then reheat the bed and continue to print.
Glue sticks can maybe help or even hot glue. But I would be afraid in that case that the part wouldn't be level hence the glue would be to tick.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I like the idea of printing a holder, for the part-it holds the part laterally and indexes the new printing. I would maybe model it and slice it separately. Then model and slice the text as a first layer thing. It is important the slicer doesn’t think the text is floating in the air, or it will interpret it as a bridge, and do weird stuff. Don’t use skirt or brim on text slicing. I’m thinking print the holder, keep the bed warm. Raise the extruder up out of the way. Get the plastic piece warm on the heated bed. Put glue stick on the part and stick it to the bed in the holder. With the extruder cold, slowly bring the extruder down until it is the right height to print, could use a sheet of paper between the part and the nozzle as a feeler gauge. Now the Z is at the right height. Bring up the text G-code. At the beginning of the G-code, edit the homing command, `G28`, to be `G28 X Y`, no Z, so it won’t home the Z-axis. Also, delete or comment out `G29` auto-leveling if present. Then type in a line `G92 Z.1`, this spoofs the position of the Z-axis so the printer thinks it’s at zero plus the thickness of your sheet of paper (.1 mm). Add in a move to prime the nozzle, after it is heated `M109`, right before it starts moving. `G1 E10 F400`. Then `G92 E0`, then a retract move `G1 E-2 F3900`. This is right before it starts moving, with a long series of `G1` commands. Note, ignore the prime, retract thing if your G-code already includes it. That should be good to print. Dial down the speed and be ready to catch the plastic squirt from the prime move with some tweezers, you could even hold something flat and metal under the nozzle as it primes to simulate having a surface to build up pressure. Immediately after the prime, be ready to micro-step the Z-axis to dial in your first layer as it starts printing on your part. Turn up the speed if everything is going to plan.
You could pull the filament out of the extruder and do a dry run if you’re worried about the part. Or print a couple in case the first one gets messed up.
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Tags: adhesion, multi-material, prusa-mini
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thread-16071 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16071 | Dual Z-axis has different speeds (out of sync) | 2021-04-10T20:31:45.047 | # Question
Title: Dual Z-axis has different speeds (out of sync)
The Z-axis has two stepper motors, I'm using MKS GEN L V2.1 mainboard with TMC 2209 Drivers. My problem is that the motors are out of sync. How can I get them to work together?
This is my code from the `configuration.h` file:
```
#define X_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209
#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209
#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209
//#define X2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define Y2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define Z2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define Z3_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define Z4_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209
#define E1_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209
//#define E2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E3_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E4_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E5_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E6_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define E7_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
```
Also here is the code from the `configuration_adv.h` file:
```
//
// For Z set the number of stepper drivers
//
#define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 2 // (1-4) Z options change based on how many
#if NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS > 1
//#define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS)
#define Z2_USE_ENDSTOP _XMAX_
#define Z2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0
#if NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS >= 3
#define Z3_USE_ENDSTOP _YMAX_
#define Z3_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0
#endif
#if NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS >= 4
#define Z4_USE_ENDSTOP _ZMAX_
#define Z4_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0
#endif
#endif
#endif
```
and also this:
```
// Microstep setting (Only functional when stepper driver microstep pins are connected to MCU.
#define MICROSTEP_MODES { 16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16 } // [1,2,4,8,16]
#if HAS_TRINAMIC_CONFIG
#define HOLD_MULTIPLIER 0.5 // Scales down the holding current from run current
#define INTERPOLATE true // Interpolate X/Y/Z_MICROSTEPS to 256
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(X)
#define X_CURRENT 800 // (mA) RMS current. Multiply by 1.414 for peak current.
#define X_CURRENT_HOME X_CURRENT // (mA) RMS current for sensorless homing
#define X_MICROSTEPS 16 // 0..256
#define X_RSENSE 0.11
#define X_CHAIN_POS -1 // <=0 : Not chained. 1 : MCU MOSI connected. 2 : Next in chain, ...
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(X2)
#define X2_CURRENT 800
#define X2_CURRENT_HOME X2_CURRENT
#define X2_MICROSTEPS 16
#define X2_RSENSE 0.11
#define X2_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y)
#define Y_CURRENT 800
#define Y_CURRENT_HOME Y_CURRENT
#define Y_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Y_RSENSE 0.11
#define Y_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Y2)
#define Y2_CURRENT 800
#define Y2_CURRENT_HOME Y2_CURRENT
#define Y2_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Y2_RSENSE 0.11
#define Y2_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z)
#define Z_CURRENT 800
#define Z_CURRENT_HOME Z_CURRENT
#define Z_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z2)
#define Z2_CURRENT 800
#define Z2_CURRENT_HOME Z2_CURRENT
#define Z2_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z2_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z2_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z3)
#define Z3_CURRENT 800
#define Z3_CURRENT_HOME Z3_CURRENT
#define Z3_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z3_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z3_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(Z4)
#define Z4_CURRENT 800
#define Z4_CURRENT_HOME Z4_CURRENT
#define Z4_MICROSTEPS 16
#define Z4_RSENSE 0.11
#define Z4_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E0)
#define E0_CURRENT 900
#define E0_MICROSTEPS 16
#define E0_RSENSE 0.11
#define E0_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E1)
#define E1_CURRENT 800
#define E1_MICROSTEPS 16
#define E1_RSENSE 0.11
#define E1_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E2)
#define E2_CURRENT 800
#define E2_MICROSTEPS 16
#define E2_RSENSE 0.11
#define E2_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E3)
#define E3_CURRENT 800
#define E3_MICROSTEPS 16
#define E3_RSENSE 0.11
#define E3_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E4)
#define E4_CURRENT 800
#define E4_MICROSTEPS 16
#define E4_RSENSE 0.11
#define E4_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E5)
#define E5_CURRENT 800
#define E5_MICROSTEPS 16
#define E5_RSENSE 0.11
#define E5_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E6)
#define E6_CURRENT 800
#define E6_MICROSTEPS 16
#define E6_RSENSE 0.11
#define E6_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(E7)
#define E7_CURRENT 800
#define E7_MICROSTEPS 16
#define E7_RSENSE 0.11
#define E7_CHAIN_POS -1
#endif
```
Finally, this picture represents the jumper set-up used.
# Answer
I'm having the exact same issue, SKR1.4 Turbo with 2209's on i3 clone and it started when I tried to enable `G34` auto-alignment. I very briefly had it fixed by disabling the auto-alignment and I wish I knew how because now I can't even fix it with a fresh download of Marlin and no `G34` to begin with.
I took the gantry off and watched the motors turning because at first I thought they were trying to move opposite directions but in fact, they were just turning at different speeds.
Right now I have tried enabling all max end-stop pins as well as only min pins (using only the probe as Z end-stop) so far to no avail.
The good news for you is I think I see your problem. E1 stepper should be commented out, Z2 is the one you want. Let me know how/if it works.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: z-axis, stepper-driver, stepper, speed, dual-nozzle
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thread-10369 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10369 | Why does jerk have units of mm/s rather than mm/s³? | 2019-06-24T18:58:46.250 | # Question
Title: Why does jerk have units of mm/s rather than mm/s³?
In 3D printing firmware and slicers, jerk settings are expressed in units if mm/s. This is contrary the physical definition of jerk, which is in units of mm/s³, being the second derivative of speed with respect to time (or the third derivative of position). What is the reason for this discrepancy and how does one interpret jerk in this contect?
# Answer
> 9 votes
The jerk setting in 3D printing G-code and firmware represents a concept similar to, but distinct from, the physical definition of jerk. Rather, it's a \[limit on\] instantaneous change of speed.
Mathematically, one way to make sense of this is to think that, rather than being the second derivative of speed with respect to time, this "jerk" is the entire remainder of the first-order expansion of speed with respect to time - it corresponds to the second-order term *and all higher order terms*. Such terms cannot be combined just as coefficients, since they all have different units corresponding to different powers of time; rather, they can be combined only *with their corresponding powers of time*, in which case the resulting unit is mm/s.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The units for jerk should be meters per second cubed or m/s<sup>3</sup>.
Meters are the basic unit for *distance*. The first derivative is speed, or *velocity*, m/s. The second derivative is *acceleration*, m/s<sup>2</sup>. The third derivative is *jerk*, m/s<sup>3</sup>.
It is rate of change in acceleration.
While seldom used, I've only heard it once concerning the Hubble Space telescope, there is a fourth derivative call *jounce*, m/s<sup>4</sup>.
# Answer
> 1 votes
In step based motion control, the time between two steps is calculated directly from velocity. If that time is not constant then you are accelerating or decelerating based on a specified acceleration. The next time between steps is calculated from the current velocity based on the desired acceleration. However when moving 2 or 3 axes at once, this can result in very poor and slow performance when moving through complex curves composed of many small moves, because by the math one axis always needs to slow down too much if no jerk is involved. When doing motion calculations for step based systems, actual jerk m/s³ directly translates into how much velocity 'error' is acceptable in calculation of the next velocity (m/s) to allow turning lo angle corners more quickly, but without missing steps or stalling motors. This velocity error comes directly from the actual jerk between two steps and it does have physical meaning, (and the proper units). Also, low power microprocessors can do the math fast enough, which is not the case if square and cube roots get involved.
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Tags: firmware
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thread-16068 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16068 | What can cause the center of the bed to be higher than the sides? | 2021-04-10T15:12:37.803 | # Question
Title: What can cause the center of the bed to be higher than the sides?
I find it impossible to level the printer recently. I read a couple of articles on bed warping but that refers to having the center of bed lower than the sides (collapsing on its own weight warm up after warm?) but what I experience is the opposite: the center is higher than the sides. Did anyone face this situation and how did you solved it? I use an Anycubic Chiron so the bed is pretty big.
# Answer
As the Anycubic Chiron has an automated bed leveling, you can just calibrate that differences in height in the printer's firmware. Here is the official tutorial made by Anycubic :)
> 1 votes
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Tags: bed-leveling, glass-bed, bed
--- |
thread-14874 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14874 | Is 3D printing suitable for repairing a refrigerator shelf glide rail? | 2020-11-24T21:16:30.007 | # Question
Title: Is 3D printing suitable for repairing a refrigerator shelf glide rail?
The plastic glide rail on which my refrigerator vegetable drawer (bin) traveled recently broke.
The rail was part of a large plastic shelf, which is no longer available for purchase.
I'm thinking about 3D printing a new glide rail and attaching it (somehow) to the existing shelf.
Can 3D printing be used for this task to make the repair any easier or more successful to complete than simply cutting a piece of plastic and (again, somehow) affixing it to the shelf?
Note that the glide rail needs to be somehow attached to the shelf at a 90 degree angle. I keep using the word "somehow" because I haven't figured out how to make that magic happen yet.
# Answer
> 3 votes
> Can 3D printing be used for this task to make the repair any easier or more successful to complete than simply cutting a piece of plastic and (again, somehow) affixing it to the shelf?
**Yes.** 3D printed parts can be plenty strong enough to handle the kind of load you're considering. You'll need to create a 3D model of the part you want it a CAD program, which is something that takes some practice if you don't already know how to do it, so it may or may not be easier *for you* than milling the from a plastic blank.
One advantage that 3D printing brings with it is the ability to iterate rapidly on your design: you can model and print the part that you think will work, try it out, adjust your model to incorporate what you learn from the first try, and print new versions until you get it just right. If the existing shelf is broken in some irregular way, for example, you can design a new part that mates tightly with the broken edge of the part you have.
> The rail was part of a large plastic shelf, which is no longer available for purchase.
Perhaps you've already looked, but there are a great many parts suppliers online. If you have the part number, be sure to look beyond just what the manufacturer can supply -- it's very likely that someone out there has the part you need.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is one of those tricky problems where the form of the repair and the materials that you need have to go hand in hand - you need a way to fix the new rail to the shelf and you need the repair to be strong enough to do it’s job. Perhaps consider screwing the rail to the shelf - cyanoacrylate adhesive is good for 3D prints but doesn’t like low temperatures. Once you know how you’re going to fix the rail, the design requirements will be clearer.
---
Tags: repair, applications
--- |
thread-15629 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15629 | What are ways to avoid heat creep? | 2021-02-12T14:40:17.830 | # Question
Title: What are ways to avoid heat creep?
Printer configuration and many settings affect heat creep. Heat creep stopping extrusion doesn't necessarily involve melting the filament too high above the nozzle. All it takes is making the filament too soft. The filament may bend and wad up (the importance to avoid gaps in the hot end allowing this). On direct drives (not Bowden tubes) the filament can get soft so that the teeth on the direct drive cuts a notch in the filament instead of pushing it through the nozzle.
\[moved to answer\]
Fig. 1: Some typical signs of heat creep on the filament of a direct drive. 1) notch in filament where gear spins in soft filament. 2) normal teeth marks in filament. 3) soft filament bending. 4) soft filament bunches in open area. With a Bowden tube, the filament widens at the end.
Fig. 2.: Another example of heat creep with a direct drive extruder.
**Note**: Setting the retraction too high can cause the extruder to jam, but this is not heat creep. Although, the symptom could be mistaken for heat creep.
**Also note**: Printing materials like PETG too fast can clog the nozzle because the filament doesn't have time to melt. This is the opposite cause from heat creep. On some direct drive extruders you can tell the difference in the appearance of the jammed filament moving too fast versus heat creep because the filament is rigid when moving too fast and tends to jam in the nozzle giving a similar appearance to heat creep in Bowden tubes extruders. When PETG jams in a direct drive as shown in Figure 3, both raising the temperature of the extruder (more heat to melt the filament) and improving the cooling of the heat sink (drive teeth digging into stiffer filament) **also** helps.
Fig. 3.: Filament with end expanded in nozzle showing jam from filament moving too fast and not heating enough.
A defect in the filament can jam in the tube to the hot end, as well as the filament hanging up on the spool or in the path to the hot end. This can also stop extrusion.
Of course different materials change the characteristics of heat creep, but what are other things affecting heat creep?
This is expanded from How is heat creep characterized?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Things to consider (This is expanded from How is heat creep characterized?):
1. The air volume of the cooling fan on the hotend heat sink affects the temperature gradient across the heat sink. Usually the size/geometry of the fan depends on the printer design, so the main parameter of a fan that controls air volume is the rpm. I've noticed fans fitting hotends from 6,000 to 10,000 rpm. The higher rpm the better as far as preventing heat creep. Of course, make sure the fan is spinning properly.
2. The raising the temperature of the extruder increases the chance of heat creep.
* A high resistive connection to the sensor will cause a lower that actual temperature reading. Thus, the controller will raise the hotend to a higher temperature than set, which can cause het creep.
3. Razing the temperature of the heated bed, especially when the printer is in an enclosure, increases the chance of heat creep because this raises the temperature of the air the fan blows across the heatsink.
* What can be useful is using higher extrusion and bed temperatures for the first layer, then set lower temperatures on subsequent layers to reduce the chances of heat creep.
4. The slower the print speed the higher the chance of heat creep. That's because a slower print speed gives the filament more time to heat up in the extruder. Many slicers have a setting that slows down the print speed if a layer will finish below a given time. If this slowed down time causes heat creep, the extrusion will stop when the printer reaches these smaller area layers.
* Too much travel of the extruder without extruding has a similar effect because the filament isn't moving. I verified that connecting isolated structures on a design with heat creep can eliminate it. Using a little more material for thin walls is better than scraping prints.
**Example:** This is easy to demonstrate with PETG. Design a table printed top down 100 mm square with four legs 5 mm square and 100 mm long. Set the parameters so that you start to get heat creep when printing the legs. Now put four 1 mm thick walls between the legs to get the heat creep to go away.
* Sometimes if you start a second print without letting the extruder cool down from the first print, heat creep will cause the extruder to jam.
5. The heater block might be too close to the heatsink so that they bypass the heat breaks reduction in conducting heat.
6. Hotends for temperatures 245 °C and below can use such things as Teflon tubing in the heat break to isolate the filament from the metal. But, +250 °C nozzle temperatures need all metal hotends.
7. The PID settings in the firmware might be letting the hotend temperature overshoot too high.
---
Tags: extrusion, heat, heat-creep
--- |
thread-16195 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16195 | Problem with BLTouch on Ender 3 Pro | 2021-04-26T14:33:23.217 | # Question
Title: Problem with BLTouch on Ender 3 Pro
I'm having some problems with my BLTouch.
Yesterday I got the 4.2.7 silent board delivered as well as the BLTouch and a glass bed. I was able to install the silent board without a problem and according to the many, many diagrams I've looked at, I also have my BLTouch installed correctly. I've installed several different firmware versions as well as manually compiling some.
*I used the following diagram which was provided in a link by the seller. I also tried the firmware for Ender 3 pro 4.2.7 board on the Creality website as well as a few other firmware versions from various YouTube videos.*
When I start up my printer the BLTouch does its normal startup thing and my printer says it's ready. But when I try to auto home, bed level, or even manually control the BLTouch it doesn't extend at all. I've spent about 4 hours trying to figure it out on my own and I'm throwing in the towel.
# Answer
For anyone who has this problem in the future my solution was to loosen the screw on top of the touch just a little bit
> 3 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, firmware, bltouch
--- |
thread-16183 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16183 | First move after homing way too fast | 2021-04-25T02:05:56.067 | # Question
Title: First move after homing way too fast
There are a few hits on my issue title but could not find an actual answer/advice. I burned my Ender 3 Pro Creality motherboard and replaced it with an SKR 1.4 + TMC 2209 + BLTouch. Everything is moving like it should and calibrated.
However, at the end of the homing process, the Z-axis goes up, then it's supposed to move to the printing position. At that point, the acceleration is so great that the Z-axis barely goes down and I end up printing about 4 cm above the bed.
These are the settings I changed on my Marlin 2.0.7 firmware in relation to the Ender 3 setup:
```
Configuration.h
set #define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "Nicolas Rietsch v 0.1.2"
enable #define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME
set #define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "Ender-3 PRO"
set #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
set #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 5, 45 }
set #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 450, 450, 100, 10000 }
set #default DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 450
set #define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 500
set #define INVERT_X_DIR true
set #define INVERT_E0_DIR true
set #define X_MIN_POS -26
set #define X_BED_SIZE 230
set #define Y_BED_SIZE 230
set #define Z_MAX_POS 250
enable #define NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE
```
```
Configuration_adv.h
set #define X_CURRENT 500
set #define Y_CURRENT 500
set #define Z_CURRENT 500
set #define E0_CURRENT 650
set #define CHOPPER_TIMING CHOPPER_DEFAULT_24V
```
What am I missing?
# Answer
Maybe it would it help if you fix `#default` to `#define` in the current line:
```
set #default DEFAULT_ACCELERATION ...
```
> 0 votes
---
Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-65 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/65 | When should I use a raft, when should I use a brim? | 2016-01-12T20:49:28.873 | # Question
Title: When should I use a raft, when should I use a brim?
Taken from the answer provided by @EricJohnson,
When should I use a raft, and when should I use a brim? What advantages does each have over the other?
Raft
Brim
# Answer
> 11 votes
A raft will allow for better adhesion for the whole print as the raft attaches to the printing surface and the print attaches to the raft. Rafts go all the way under the print and consist of multiple layers, whereas a brim is only 1 layer and on the outside of the print. Rafts are normally harder to remove than brims because of the increased contact with the print.
From my own experiences, the brim does not help a lot with layer adhesion as it is only 1 layer. I normally use a raft when I need a nice looking 1st layer that is not on the bed or when there are not enough contact points.
# Answer
> 8 votes
A raft is used to prevent warping. Instead of printing directly on the build surface, parts are built on top of it. You remove and dispose of a raft post-print. The raft is larger than the part and so has more adhesion. Rafts are primarily used with ABS to help with bed adhesion. Rafts are also used to help stabilize models with small footprints (e.g. a pole), or to create a strong foundation on which to build the upper layers of a model. If your only concern is bed adhesion it is better to use a brim.
A brim is attached to a model and extends outward. Brims typically have several outlines and may be a few layers tall. Brims are often used to stabilize small parts of a model, such as legs of a table, because brims help these areas stay connected to the print bed.
### TL;DR
The brim is only around a model and attached to its first layer, a raft is also under it.
# Answer
> 5 votes
A raft helps when the part has few points of contact with the print bed, and doesn't therefore adhere well at points within and without the part.
A brim helps when the part doesn't adhere well around the perimeter of the part.
There are very rare situations where you'll need both, but typically you'll only use one or the other.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I have been favoring brims recently; I am tired of the rafts becoming an integral part of my print, impossible to remove.
---
Tags: rafts, brims
--- |
thread-16189 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16189 | Trouble printing perpendicular walls | 2021-04-25T17:30:01.323 | # Question
Title: Trouble printing perpendicular walls
I'm trying to print the following model:
I'm using Simplify3d to print the model with the following settings on my Qidi X-pro:
* Filament is ABS
* Bed temp is 100 °C
* Extruder temp is 230 °C
* 1 top layer
* 1 bottom layer
* 4 perimeter shells
* The outside direction is 'outside in'.
* Internal infill is triangular at 60 %.
I've tried numerous tweaks to the settings, but, I can't seem to get a perfect perpendicular exterior wall as seen in the photos. The print more resembles a trapezoid. It appears like the walls are bowing inward. This also seems to throw off the dimensions. They aren't consistent. For example, the height of the part is 6 mm, but, in measuring with a caliper it shows 5.8 mm to 6.2 mm.
Can anyone tell me how I can get my external walls perpendicular?
# Answer
> 2 votes
You may be getting shrinking due to cooling on the non-top and non-bottom layers. Sixty percent infill is rather substantial. I'm printing 20 hour pieces in ABS at 100 °C / 250 °C using ten percent infill and getting nothing like what your image shows.
Can you do with a lower infill? More isn't always stronger. Four perimeter shells may be a factor but you'll probably see a difference with a smaller percentage infill.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If your object doesn't need to be flexible and can tolerate a more brittle material, PLA has better dimensional accuracy. Thus, it would be easier to get your desired shape.
Try two perimeter shells, but slow down the print speed of the perimeter.
# Answer
> 0 votes
ABS shrinks about 1.5% as it cools from print temp to room temp. If your setup doesn't automatically account for this, you can scale up your STL 1.5% before slicing.
I also recommend more top layers - I usually use 4 for 50% infill or greater, and 6 or 8 for lower infill percentages.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Already mentioned in an answer is that ABS has a relatively large percentage of shrinkage (about 1.5 %), this should be encountered for in your model. So, the top layers width being smaller than the model is perfectly explained by the shrinkage.
It is also this shrinkage that causes the excess width layers at the bottom in combination with the heated bed temperature. The bed is of relative high temperature, this is close to the glass temperature of the filament, this ensures that the plastic is soft and adheres well to the build plate. But, this high temperature also causes that the material doesn't shrink much (the cooler, the higher the shrinkgae), the further away from the bed the lower the temperature the higher the shrinkage. This causes each layer to be a little smaller than the previous layer. As the part progresses layers are build upon layers fixating the layers, so the material at the lower layers will not shrink back when the whole part is cooled down (it will probably cause for some compression stress in the lower region).
This defect is known as "elephant foot" as e.g. explained in this answer. Basically the bed temperature is too high (but the downside is that ABS needs a high temperature to prevent warping and loosening from the build plate), too less cooling (also not something you want when printing ABS as cooling causes warping and prevents layers to stick well to each other) or a too low distance between the nozzle and the build plate. You could try lowering heated bed temperature by 5 °C each print, print with a raft and increasing the nozzle to build plate distance (leveling with a thicker piece of paper or increase the nozzle by redefinition of the `Z=0` plane).
This is a common issue for high shrinkage, high temperature materials. It is something to live with, try to balance out the problem or adjust the print object by changing the design to include a chamfer at the bottom of the print.
---
Tags: troubleshooting, simplify3d, qidi-x-pro
--- |
thread-7606 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7606 | Settings for vase mode in Cura? | 2018-12-09T10:56:26.190 | # Question
Title: Settings for vase mode in Cura?
I keep hearing about vase mode, but I have some problem figuring out how to set it up in my slicer; I use Cura slicer.
So, I'd like to get some settings to do it in Ultimaker Cura, using PLA if the material is important, plus any advice on how to properly do it and ensure that the print retains it's shape on print.
# Answer
Vase Mode changed the name in some version before 3.5. Now you can achieve this with 2 modes: "Surface Mode" and "Spiralize Outer Contour". To turn it on do this:
* Choose the Custom setting menu on the right
* click a gear to set up what settings you want to see
* Under the header "Special Modes" you find both Surface Mode and Spiralize Outer Contour
* set the checkmarks on both
Turning on the Surface mode to `Surface` and checking `Spiralize Outer Contour` gets the "classic" Vase Mode.
Turning on `Surface` without `Spiralize Outer Contour` gets an infill-less outer perimeter
Now, the *classic* Vase mode will only print the *single most outer perimeter* of a print, so your model will have to be very limited with angles and contain no bridges - with one perimeter, you will only be able to print at best 45° angles!
> 10 votes
# Answer
Option `Spiralize` makes your model one layer thick on outer edges.
What I do for a vase is set the top layer count to zero.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, software
--- |
thread-10839 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10839 | Ultimaker Cura is adding redundant top/bottom layers | 2019-08-22T15:09:10.833 | # Question
Title: Ultimaker Cura is adding redundant top/bottom layers
I'm trying to print a supporting base which will house the spindle for an electrostatic rotor. It's basically just a truncated cone with a hole down it's center to house the spindle.
For reasons that I cannot fathom, Ultimaker Cura keeps on adding an unrequested top/bottom layer (color-coded yellow in the screenshots) inside this hole, so instead of a single hollow cylinder of 10 mm depth, the result is a hole only a few millimeters deep with another hollow cylinder behind it.
Here is the intended model, note the open space for the hole at the top.
Here is the inner view of the hole being printed as expected:
Finally, here is a layer view of the print a few millimeters from the final top layer with the unrequested top/bottom layer that covers the spindle hole:
The STL file is on Github (with a built-in viewer).
Can anyone help me understand why this is happening?
# Answer
It would appear that your model does not conform properly to STL standards. I base this conclusion on a couple of factors. When I loaded the model into Simplify3D slicer, it displayed fine, but when sliced, displayed nothing. Using the onboard repair feature, it presented the entire model as being composed of non-manifold surfaces.
Meshmixer's Analysis/Inspector feature also highlighted the entire model as flawed.
Another observation is that there is an extraordinary amount of facets/triangles/faces to this model. Nearly three-quarters of a million triangles for something that should be much simpler.
The most recent version of Prusa Slicer 2.0 presents an error message indicating that no layers were detected. This is peculiar indeed.
All of the above points to a problem with the source file or the software used to create it.
Please consider to add to your post the program you used or the source of the model.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I had the same issue exporting from Sketchup to STL. I imported my STL to Tinkercad and then exported it again and it resolved my issue.
Tinkercad is a free and online tool.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, troubleshooting
--- |
thread-10236 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10236 | How do I concave an image to create a 3D file for use in a 3D printer? | 2019-06-12T00:11:48.253 | # Question
Title: How do I concave an image to create a 3D file for use in a 3D printer?
How can I print an embossed image in a concaved shape?
Like a big saucer. I will use this an a mold for a project.
So far I've found lots of software with huge spread of features. It's sort of overwhelming. There is lots of ways to create images into 3D printable objects but to add the extra step and concaving that image is harder to find out.
How would you do it? I'm open to suggestions.
I'm new to 3D printing and would really appreciate the help.
# Answer
What you describe, sounds like you want to create a lithophane; a pattern etched or engraved on a thin translucent base material (in your case a bowl) that can only be seen clearly when backlit with a light source behind it. Apparently you want to use it for another purpose.
Special software and or scripts that transform the image to the base material exist. An example is e.g. this sphere which becomes a globe when lit from the inside. Recommending a tool for creating such bowl is a little out of scope as these types of questions become outdated very quickly as technology changes or tools cease to exist. With the provided information you should be able to find software that is able to provide what you want to do.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You may want to look up https://3dp.rocks/lithophane/ it lets you do things like that
> -1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
--- |
thread-16179 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16179 | Replacing ceramic tape on Wanhao Duplicator i3 | 2021-04-24T19:25:38.890 | # Question
Title: Replacing ceramic tape on Wanhao Duplicator i3
I need new ceramic tape for my 3D printer. Does it matter which I get? Can I just get the cheapest? Is there a quality difference?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 too. It does not matter a lot which ceramic wadding and / or kapton you use. The more you seal off, the better it works. If you have a full metal hotend and a powerful cooling blower and need temps above 250 °C, you might want to do the best you can with a good padding of ceramic and kapton. For normal operation, a half-done job will do just fine.
See this question too: Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?
---
Tags: extruder, monoprice-maker-select, wanhao, duplicator-i3-plus
--- |
thread-16114 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16114 | GRBL with low feed rate not working | 2021-04-17T13:52:20.367 | # Question
Title: GRBL with low feed rate not working
I have a cheap 3000 mW laser cutter that I'm trying to cut 3 mm black acrylic. I'm lowering the feed rate to try to get it to cut in one pass.
I have the G-code for a small circle (16 mm) but it seems any feed rate below about 25 mm/min is being ignored and it uses 25 mm/min anyway. The laser cutter has been set up with GRBL 1.1h and I have checked that feed rate is being read in by GRBL correctly. If I set a feed rate of 35 mm/min, that is processed correctly - but it needs two passes to cut the acrylic.
Please see G-code below:
```
G90 (use absolute coordinates)
M4 S0
S0
G0 X9.6 Y18.16
S1000
G1 X10.98 Y18.21 F20
G1 X12.27 Y17.99
G1 X13.48 Y17.55
G1 X14.58 Y16.9
G1 X15.56 Y16.07
G1 X16.41 Y15.1
G1 X17.12 Y14
G1 X17.68 Y12.82
G1 X18.06 Y11.56
G1 X18.26 Y10.28
G1 X18.27 Y8.98
G1 X18.08 Y7.7
G1 X17.82 Y6.88
G1 X17.48 Y6.11
G1 X17.06 Y5.39
G1 X16.56 Y4.72
G1 X16 Y4.11
G1 X15.37 Y3.55
G1 X14.7 Y3.06
G1 X13.98 Y2.63
G1 X13.22 Y2.27
G1 X12.43 Y1.98
G1 X11.62 Y1.77
G1 X10.8 Y1.63
G1 X9.15 Y1.6
G1 X7.62 Y1.89
G1 X6.23 Y2.47
G1 X4.99 Y3.3
G1 X3.93 Y4.34
G1 X3.06 Y5.55
G1 X2.41 Y6.89
G1 X1.98 Y8.33
G1 X1.81 Y9.83
G1 X1.91 Y11.35
G1 X2.3 Y12.85
G1 X2.99 Y14.3
G1 X3.38 Y14.87
G1 X3.8 Y15.4
G1 X4.27 Y15.87
G1 X4.76 Y16.29
G1 X5.29 Y16.67
G1 X5.84 Y17
G1 X6.42 Y17.29
G1 X7.02 Y17.53
G1 X7.64 Y17.74
G1 X8.28 Y17.92
G1 X8.94 Y18.05
G1 X9.6 Y18.16
S0
M5 S0
G0 X0 Y0 Z0 (move back to origin)
```
This G-code was produced with LaserGRBL (and modified by me, to no effect). I have tried `F1`, `F2`, `F3`, `F4`, `F5`, `F10`, and `F20` and they all take the same amount of time to complete.
What can I do to perform a cut in one pass since these low feed rates appear to be ignored?
# Answer
This was likely due to reaching the limitations (maybe minimum step rate) of the stepper drivers which were 4988 drivers. I updated them to 8825 drivers which were able to support a speed of `F20` correctly. I have not yet tried them at lower speeds.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, g-code, laser
--- |
thread-16137 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16137 | Printer shaking - Marlin 2.0 | 2021-04-20T01:33:35.120 | # Question
Title: Printer shaking - Marlin 2.0
I just replaced the board on my Creality CR-10 with a 32-bit SKR Mini E3 V2.0 control board that runs Marlin 2.0. With the new control board, the printer's Y-Axis moves vibrate so much that it blurs the camera I am using that is connected to the bed.
I have checked the mechanical stuff and it seems like the issue is the stepper motors are running choppily instead of smoothly.
I know that 32-bit Marlin has lots of things I can tweak. Are there settings I should be checking? Where do I start?
# Answer
> 2 votes
The problem turned out to be mechanical. The arm that I mounted the camera on had developed a crack where it connects to the build platform. I used some superglue to repair the crack and the camera shaking went away.
The lesson here is to check EVERYTHING mechanical before trying to blame shaking on the firmware.
---
Tags: marlin, stepper-driver
--- |
thread-15705 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15705 | Cura G-code Printer G-code settings vs. Extruder G-code settings | 2021-02-20T18:32:40.727 | # Question
Title: Cura G-code Printer G-code settings vs. Extruder G-code settings
I am configuring my Cura G-code settings, and I'm not sure if the Printer G-code settings (printer tab of Machine Settings) should be the same as the Extruder G-code settings (extruder tab of Machine Settings). Does one set of settings override the other? Should they be different?
I'm using the following for Printer Start G-code:
```
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating bed
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating extruder
G28 ;home
G90 ;absolute positioning
G1 X-10 Y-10 F3000
G1 Z0 F1800
G92 E0
G1 E20 F200
G92 E0
```
Printer End G-code:
```
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G90 ;absolute positioning
G92 E0
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G28 X0 Y0
M84 ;steppers off
```
# Answer
> 3 votes
If your printer has only one extruder, leave the Extruder G-Code empty. This setting is useful for multi-extruder printing (e.g. multicolor). The extruder G-Code runs each time you switch to and away from that extruder, and can be used for stuff such as retracting a filament when switching.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code
--- |
thread-11321 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11321 | How do I set the flow rate on my Ender 3 Pro and have it stay at that percentage? | 2019-11-08T17:24:25.857 | # Question
Title: How do I set the flow rate on my Ender 3 Pro and have it stay at that percentage?
I am trying to increase the flow rate on my Ender 3 from 100 to 108 % but every time I start a new print it reverts back to the old 100 % flow rate. I have clicked through the settings and pressed the "store settings" button but it still reverts back at the start of every print. I don't want to do this in my slicer settings as I run 18 Ender 3's so I want to be able to use the same G-code for each.
# Answer
Changing the **flow rate** during a print can **not** be saved. There simply is no way. It is usually meant to be a fix with filament inconsistencies or to look for the right extrusion factor for a new filament batch.
## Slicer
The only way to consistently increase the flow rate would be to alter the `flow rate` in your slicer to what you have found to work best for each machine, probably using separate profiles. This will up the rate for every subsequently sliced print. Note though that this 108 % increased extrusion is converted extrusion factors that are simply numerical and 1.08 times the normal in the g-code. These numerical values will be taken as 100 % by the printer - and since it requires extra work to slice the gode for different profiles it is not the optimal solution.
As you elaborated though, this is not a doable thing, so let's look further.
## Source hunt & Workaround
Since only one printer is showing underextrusion while the others do not, it is time to check the hard- and firmware:
* underextrusion can be caused by a defective extruder assembly or a damaged or blocked nozzle.
* if a machine has consistent underextrusion, its steps/mm in the firmware might be off. This could be altered and stored in the EEPROM. Since this could be a machine unique setting, here would be your point of attack to increase the extrusion of just one machine while using the identical G-code to all other machines.
Note that the standard firmware of the Ender-3 in 2019 did not contain Thermal Runaway Protection (What is Thermal Runaway Protection?) and should be upgraded because of this anyway. You have to flash a bootloader too, so in the process of doing the upgradeability and safety-upgrade to all the machines, you could store the altered steps/mm to each machine individually so they get consistent output.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You should be able to add a global override to the flow percentage on Marlin firmware printers.
Add this line somewhere in your start code:
`M221 S97 ; Flow Percentage hard set.`
In Cura, edit the printer's machine settings. The `S` is the percentage. In my case, 97 % works for PLA+.
Here is a link you might find useful. Marlin Docs
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, firmware
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thread-11381 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11381 | Great prints then suddenly terrible quality | 2019-11-18T02:13:25.380 | # Question
Title: Great prints then suddenly terrible quality
I've been printing with my Ender 3 for a while now and it's been great. I've had very few problems - depending on my settings, these are my typical first layers:
However with no settings or temperature changes and attempting to print the same files, I am now getting this issue with every print - The lines lay down and adhere fine, but if I watch carefully it looks as if the nozzle is causing the previous line to lift and warp. I have checked belt tensions, calibrated all axes.
The prints come out fine in terms of dimensions - all within 0.1 mm overall size on large prints - but the quality is now terrible. I'm using the same roll. Prints were back-to-back and humidity is at 20 % in the room I store and print in. I've checked the nozzle, checked the belts, tightened everything, rest the printer settings and put them back, regenerated the G-code with multiple slicers... I'm at a loss now.
Any ideas, thoughts, comments, etc would be greatly appreciated.
# Answer
> 4 votes
After watching it countless times, I found out that it was the magnetic mat on the bed that has worn out. It no longer adheres to the bed completely flat and some of the texture was worn down more than in other areas. It wasn't visually detectable - I found it by checking the nozzle height with various feeler gauges in multiple random locations.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I had a similar problem with my 3 week old Ender 3 Pro. I changed the nozzle to no avail then double checked the bed gaps. Some people seem to have the paper drag quite a lot others no drag. After 3 tries to print the first couple of layers of the Harry Potter pen holder resulting in not sticking to the bed I re-sliced but used a skirt to get a better bedding, I also raised the bed temp to 65 for the first few layers and the nozzle to 205 this seems to have worked. I also wipe the bed with rubbing alcohol before most prints if they play up. Hope it’s helps, it it doesn’t then no harm done. PLA was used.
# Answer
> 1 votes
A few tips: Re-tighten your belts. Wash your printbed with soap and water and don't touch it with human skin once clean. Ensure your filament doesn't contain moisture. Always store your filament dry as it's hydrophilic and goes bad over time. Make sure your printbed is always as level as possible before printing.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Maybe an adhesion issue. I use 320 wet/dry paper on my mats when they fail to work. Just circular motions.. Clean well with Windex or alcohol.
# Answer
> 0 votes
When my printer suddenly started to underextrude, it was the fault of the extruder lever being broken and not pushing out enough material. Replacing the extruder for a metal version did fix it.
Another common issues that can result in bad adhesion is a greasy or destroyed build surface. Such is fixed with cleaning or replacing the part.
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Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, warping
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thread-16229 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16229 | My Hatchbox PLA filament only allows me to use rafts | 2021-05-01T23:37:11.777 | # Question
Title: My Hatchbox PLA filament only allows me to use rafts
When I first got my 3D printer (a FlashForge Adventurer 3), it came with a sample pack of filament. With this filament, I was able to use skirts for my first layer. When the sample filament ran out, I switched to Hatchbox PLA filament. For some reason, I cannot use skirts with the Hatchbox filament. Now, whenever I try to print something with a skirt, the print moves around, ruining it. The only first-layer that works now are rafts, which I do not like, as they use up more filament and are more of a pain to remove. Is anyone else having this problem? If so, what are some workarounds to this issue?
> Here are the failed prints. I terminated them mid-way, as they started to shift on the build plate.
# Answer
> 2 votes
PLA is a forgiving filament, you can even print such filament without a heated bed. Although there are differences in quality between brands, PLA shouldn't need a raft to be printed. Hatchbox filament is not considered as a low quality type of filament; it is economical and has been around since 2013. A raft is a structured platform that is specifically used for high temperature and or high shrinkage types of filament, PLA is not such a filament and shouldn't need a raft. This implies that something is wrong with getting the filament sticking to the plate. Good adhesion requires a levelled bed, a correct initial nozzle to build plate distance (e.g. paper thickness) and possibly an adhesive like a glue stick, special adhesion spray, a textured bed or blue tape, etc.
# Answer
> 2 votes
It is unlikely this is a filament material issue since many of us have used Hatchbox PLA without this issue. This is a first layer adhesion issue.
1. Your bed may not be clean, or the bed may have had an adhesion layer you cleaned off.
2. Your nozzle may be too high on the first layer.
3. Your bed my not be level.
4. Glue sticks can help adhesion. Glue sticks usually don't post the composition on the packaging, but Elmer's glue sticks work. Elmer's washable makes it easy to remove the old layer before adding a new one. There are also glue sticks specified for 3D-printing.
Here's a discussion on glue sticks: Are all glue sticks PVA-based? How to find out?
# Answer
> 0 votes
Please try one (or more) of the following:
1. Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60 °C)
2. Check your nozzle height (0.15 - 0.25 mm is what I use)
3. Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))
4. Use adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy to remove), then use a glue stick or even hair spray if necessary.
5. Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper towel)
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Tags: pla, filament, adhesion, filament-quality, rafts
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thread-16200 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16200 | After sitting for a week first layer won't adhere | 2021-04-26T21:06:35.867 | # Question
Title: After sitting for a week first layer won't adhere
Last week I set up my Ender 3 V2 and it seemed to work perfectly out of the box. I leveled the bed, did a test print, and discovered that the nozzle was too low (successful print but elephant foot). Re-leveled at a slightly higher height (lower bed level) and was able to produce a very lovely benchy and dog.
Then I turned it off and let it sit a week until I had something to actually print. Now the first layer fails almost immediately. It will put down a line and when the nozzle comes back around it will knock it around producing a spaghetti monster. I've tried re-leveling, cleaning the bed with rubbing alcohol, using previous G-code that worked fine last week, positioning models in different spots on the bed when slicing, but no matter what I do, nothing seems to stick.
I've cleaned the bed as well. It is quite dusty here so it definitely needed that, but it doesn't seem to have fixed the issue.
# Answer
If your having first layer adhesion issues:
Please try one (or more) of the following (Start with #1), and remember that all of them are equally important!
1. Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))
2. Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper towel)
3. Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60 °C)
4. Check your nozzle height (.15 - .25 mm is what I use)
5. Lastly, use bed adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy to remove), then use a glue stick or even hair spray if necessary.
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, adhesion, build-plate
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thread-16246 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16246 | Will there be any negative effects on the print process if the printer is outside? | 2021-05-05T08:11:32.893 | # Question
Title: Will there be any negative effects on the print process if the printer is outside?
If I buy a printer, it will be going on a small table on a front porch so as to keep the smell from the house. The porch has a roof, so precipitation is not a concern. I will find a way to keep the wind out, so that will also not be a factor. The only concern I can see is the lack of climate control. The printer will probably be an Ender 3 Pro. Will this turn out bad for the prints? Do I need to be concerned about dew? Any other concerns? Solutions?
# Answer
Unless you enclose the printer fully in some way or another, I see problems, even beyond just print quality:
* humidity can and will end inside the printer by condensation and destroy the electronics, especially in the fall and winter months.
* being accessible, children from the neighborhood might get their stubby fingers into the running machine or throw off the leveling.
* being not locked in a box, people might decide to nick your printer.
* If the printer is in the sun, the filament might age much more rapidly
* Moisture can impact your filaments, making prints impossible with some filaments unless those are kept in a dry container.
* Shifting temperatures along a day could lead to prints warping during printing, resulting in deformed prints.
> 5 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, outdoors
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thread-16249 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16249 | Excessive filament powder/shavings near the extruder | 2021-05-05T18:22:00.617 | # Question
Title: Excessive filament powder/shavings near the extruder
I'm printing a Tower of Pi on my Ender 3, and I woke up to find this near the extruder:
All my attempts to google this led to checking for either a clogged nozzle or the extruder itself stripping the filament, neither of which appears to be the case.
It looks like the upper edge of the filament might be grinding against the intake hole, so I looked into lubrication, but the consensus appears to be "don't".
Has anyone else had this problem? Is there a name for it, and how do I fix it?
# Answer
The shavings come in part from the extruder design: there is no fillet on the pulling in side, the filament goes up in a sharp angle and is dragged over a rather sharp edge. It also brushes against the leadscrew.
To help with the shavings, you should alter the filament path to try and have a flatter angle than the 90°. A simple rod that pushes out the filament to come in at 80° might already reduce the number of shavings.
More might be reduced by opening the entry hole of the filament to have a 1-2 mm phase around it, altering the angle of the edge that the filament runs against to a much lower one and reducing the ability to shave off flakes. I did swap my extruder for an aluminium one, and it has this phase, and since then I have had little to no shavings at that spot anymore.
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, filament, troubleshooting
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thread-16248 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16248 | Laser 3D scanner is used in the movie to scan a key: technically possible? | 2021-05-05T15:30:59.503 | # Question
Title: Laser 3D scanner is used in the movie to scan a key: technically possible?
The Vault (2021) movie has a scene at around 42' in which a laser scanner with a rotating table is used to scan a key in a short time, maybe some minutes:
No calibration is done whatsoever. The scan quality must be high enough for the replicated key to be useful.
Is it technically possible? Is it exagerated? Is it fiction?
# Answer
> 7 votes
There have been instances where people have replicated a key from a *photograph* of a key. A multi-minute scan of a key seems like overkill, but that appears to be a very *large* key so maybe so.
Is it possible? Yes.
Is it exaggerated? Probably much simpler than is portrayed.
Is it fiction? As portrayed, yes. Practically, no.
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Tags: scanning
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thread-15887 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15887 | What are some good safety tips for a 3D printing beginner? | 2021-03-17T20:41:28.857 | # Question
Title: What are some good safety tips for a 3D printing beginner?
I have just bought my own 3D printer. However, I am now reading that there may be some safety risks to 3D printing. I will be taking some precautions, such as buying an enclosed 3D printer (the FlashForge Adventurer 3), using PLA instead of ABS, and putting my 3D printer in my garage. However, I am still concerned about the possible risks. What are some other good safety tips and best practices when 3D printing? Am I doing enough, or should I do more? What have other users of 3D printers done to mitigate potential safety issues? Please let me know.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Technically, you should never leave your printer running unattended. Printer fires are rare, but it can happen, especially with cheap printers with poor quality control. Personally, I would just make sure that there is a fire alarm near by, so you'd be alerted if there was a fire.
Also, the fumes concern is valid in the sense that you don't want to sleep in the same room as your 3D printer. The following article points out that if you are spending time in the same room without proper ventilation you'd benefit from potentially using an enclosure with a HEPA filter. Also, the article points out that using PLA may be a safer choice than other materials such as ABS or Polycarbonate when it comes to harmful particles: https://3dinsider.com/3d-printer-fumes/
# Answer
> 1 votes
Check where the moving cables (especially for the heaters) are bending. The bending radiuses should be as wide as possible and connections or soldering points should never see any direct force from movement. Add a strain reliev if there are any such connenctions to prevent them from failing over time and possibly melting down.
# Answer
> 1 votes
There are several ways to be injured with a 3D printer. The biggest threats come from the printer running under normal conditions. The uncommon, exceptional, and difficult to quantify threats come from fire and fumes.
For fire, consider the 3D printer to be like any other 400W heating appliance in your house, with the advantage compared to, say, a television in that you can inspect most of the failure points.
Check the feed points where the power connects to the power supply, main board, and the power lines to the bed heater and hot-end heater cartridge. After a few hours of printing, these should still not be hot.
There is always the possibility of a thermistor failure and thermal run-away. Most good control firmware should detect this possibility and fail with an error. If you are using custom firmware, you might want to check that this is included.
For fumes, the evidence is real that fumes are produced. It is less clear the nature and dosage of their effects. If the fumes bother you, don't breath them. If you are concerned, consider an enclosure with an activated carbon filter.
For the more immediate threats, you need to always take care when working with the printer. The hot end can burn you quickly. The heated bed can burn you more slowly. Gears, belts, and moving parts cause pinching hazards, and blood blisters can be raised easily.
Glass beds may have sharp edges, and can break to create thousands of sharp edges.
In conclusion, remember that stamped sheet metal parts, present on some printers, can bear burrs and sharp edges, inviting you to leave bloody finger prints.
A 3D printer, like many things, is dangerous in many ways. I've experienced the common threats, and have avoided the less common ones.
Be careful, but in my view a personal 3D printer is by far safer than any metalworking machine. I have been more injured by a drill press, and welding fumes are more noxious then filament out-gassing.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Install an overhead vent, like those you would have above your stove, to direct fumes and micro-filaments away from the area. You could alternatively use a box fan with a thin air filter attached to it, but the idea is to draw those fumes away from the room.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Assuming you are using PLA filament, it is plant-based and very safe. The reason some 3D printers have enclosures is becasue it helps keep some materials warm, its not for safety and especially not for fumes. You could run the thing in your bedroom 24/7 and I guarantee you would be plenty safe.
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Tags: safety, health, flashforge-adventurer-3
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thread-16258 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16258 | Is "CoreXE" a thing, or is there a reason it's not? | 2021-05-06T23:53:49.603 | # Question
Title: Is "CoreXE" a thing, or is there a reason it's not?
Thinking about different types of extruder designs, and especially remote direct drive, I wondered if anyone's ever made a cartesian bed slinger printer (Ender 3 style) where a direct drive extruder on top of the X carriage is driven by a stationary E motor at the end of the gantry via a belt. This would of course turn the extruder hob whenever there's motion along the X axis, so the X and E motors would have to be synchronized, with effective extrusion being the difference of the X and E motor motions (thus my allusion to CoreXY in the name). Are there reasons not to do this, aside from needing an over-engineered belt assembly with closed loop belt? It seems like you could get whatever reduction you need just with an appropriate belt pulley, and no need for a gearbox on top of the hotend to get the necessary torque to the extruder hob.
Of course as described this only makes sense for bed slinger printers, since if you have to move the gantry in the Y direction, you have the motor mass moving just like a normal direct drive. Of course it might be extensible to "CoreXYE" with an appropriate belt layout.
# Answer
Wow, Kevin O'Connor (of Klipper) just pointed me to a real CoreXYE design by Vlad Strateniuk called REXY, with video available:
There's an open Klipper issue about supporting it and apparently Marlin was already adapted to run on it.
> 2 votes
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Tags: extruder
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thread-15127 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15127 | Overhang Question | 2020-12-28T02:12:16.623 | # Question
Title: Overhang Question
I haven't ran into the issue yet, but I am sort of expecting it to here soon towards the end of my print. Actually, I am not even sure if it should be something that I should be worried about or not.
Basically I have some overhang on a helmet piece (it's a vent piece) and I see that there is a 90 % degree overhang. It doesn't look too big but just curious if this should be something that I should be worried about. I forgot to add support in the vent, it's my own fault and I'm definitely going to fix this in my next print for sure, but do you all think it will fail if I keep the current print going?
I use Cura, Meshmaker, and I have an Ender 3 printer.
I'm just getting started with 3D printing so I wasn't sure if I should be concerned or not.
# Answer
That depends on various parameters if an overhang will work or not, material, hotend temperature, speed, cooling, size of the overhang, etc.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Many parameters will influence success. That overhang, as flat as it is and unsupported, will need to have support-structures enabled to become printable.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I wouldn't worry about that overhang. It should settle in a few layers. Just make sure you have a decent cooling fan on it. Given the fact that you are making a helmet, I assume you are going to sand and apply putty to the whole thing at least 2 times and then sand in increasing grit. A little filing on that overhang will be an easy task.
> 0 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3
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thread-16235 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16235 | How to solve Ender 5+ weird Z-axis behavior issue? | 2021-05-02T15:54:00.067 | # Question
Title: How to solve Ender 5+ weird Z-axis behavior issue?
Before you select if you want automatic or manual leveling, the printer runs a routine to determine the Home Z-axis at the center of the bed.
This starts OK, then the level goes to maximum (of the screw) and stops. Click on the + or - button for the Z-axis does nothing. I tried to flash the firmware again (I flashed it previously to fix the auto-leveling stalled as recommended by Creality) with no effect.
As you can see in the image above, the bed has lifted up the print head. That is repeating in printing, leaving scratch marks on the bed.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Ok. So I solve the issue by myself. So to explain the problem a bit further: I had to install a new firmware. That completely reinitialize the z-axis, making the bed goes to the maximum of the screw to the point it lift the print head when I clicked on the Leveling button. To reverse the initialization of the z-axis, I click on the *Leveling button*, manually lower the bed by clicking on **the upper arrow**, then, click on manual or auto leveling, then click again on leveling and start over. At each iteration, the starting point of the bed gets lower and lower to a normal position. I had to do 4 or 5 iterations until I get the desired result. Bonus point: when you click on the *move button*, the bed goes down if you click down of the z-axis. The opposite behavior is happening in the leveling menu: so you need to click a couple of time (between 10 and 20 time for me at the first iteration) before the bed isn't in contact of the print head.
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Tags: bed-leveling, z-axis, creality-ender-5
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thread-16267 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16267 | How do I change Z safe homing coordinates in the G-code , not in Marlin | 2021-05-09T19:02:45.433 | # Question
Title: How do I change Z safe homing coordinates in the G-code , not in Marlin
I bought a Vivedino T-Rex 3 not realizing it doesn't have continue after power failure. I am over it. What I usually do is keep the part away from the home position so if it crashes I can continue without crashing the head during z home. I measure the height of what printed open the G-code and remove the layers before the layer with that Z height, then run `G28 X Y` to get away from the print. Then run `G28 Z`. But the T-Rex has a Bltouch and it goes to the middle of the bed to home the Z-axis. This is due to something called "Z safehoming is enabled". I don't want to change the T-Rex Marlin firmware. Is there a way to tell it when I am doctoring up the G-code to home the Z at at y = 5 mm x = 200 mm?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Don’t home the Z. Rather measure the height of your print to continue at with calipers. Or with detective work in your G-code preview, finding the layer your print stopped at and finding the Z height of that layer. The direction of the infill can be a clue. Then carefully lower your Z-axis until your nozzle is at the right height for your next layer (so get the nozzle .2 mm above your printed layer if you’re doing .2 mm layers).
Edit your print G-code to change `G28`, to be `G28 X0 Y0`, so that it only homes X and Y, not Z. Erase any line with `G29` (auto-leveling routine), or it will crash into your print. After the `G28 X0 Y0` line, enter `G92 Z`\[your starting Z layer height in mm\] that spoofs the Z position to the 3D printer, and it shouldn’t need to home. Then edit the rest of the G-code to start at the next layer of your resumed print.
Leave all the beginning commands that do setup, temperature, and erase the lines beginning with the movement, lots of `G1` commands. Find the `G1 Z`\[your resumed layer height\] command and begin there, that’s the beginning of the layer. Make sure there’s an existing `G92 E0` that resets the extruder distance, and the layer starts from a reset extruder position, you don’t want it to frantically dump a bunch of plastic on your print at the first extrude command (that’s one danger of resuming in in the middle of a layer).
Get everything heated up before you hit print, home the X and Y, stay in that position, and prime the nozzle. You can even hold something flat under the nozzle to keep it primed while you start the print, and have some tweezers handy to catch the goober on the hot end, so it doesn’t wipe it on your print. It helps to have a retract move when you begin, many slicers have a retract move when it advances to the next layer, you may want to start your G-code on that line if it’s before the line with the `G1 Z` \[your layer height\].
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Tags: g-code, bltouch
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thread-16269 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16269 | Can I use a material other than PTFE to print PETG? | 2021-05-10T05:01:07.673 | # Question
Title: Can I use a material other than PTFE to print PETG?
Because of the crazy shipping prices, I want to find a cheaper alternative to ordering a 600$ all-metal hot-end.
Is there a material like that which does what PTFE does but till higher temperatures?
# Answer
> 1 votes
PETG does not need an all-metal hotend or alternate bowden/lining material. Unless you're trying to print at `#speedboatrace`-competitive speeds, the recommended print temperature range for PETG is 230-250 °C, and the temperature above which you should not use a PTFE-lined hotend is 250 °C.
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Tags: all-metal-hotend
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thread-16270 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16270 | 3 Extruders on SKR V1.1, how set up 2 in 1 out (Y piece), and 1 single extruder in latest Marlin? | 2021-05-10T12:14:57.783 | # Question
Title: 3 Extruders on SKR V1.1, how set up 2 in 1 out (Y piece), and 1 single extruder in latest Marlin?
On Anet A8 with **SKR V1.1 32 bit board** my intention is to use **3 extruders** on my Anet A8, *1+2 via Y-piece on single nozzle*, 3rd Extruder with 2nd nozzle. Need another stepper to connect to SKR V1.1 (10 additional pins are available), extruder 1 + 2 go to single nozzle/heater via a Y-piece, 3rd extruder is on its own with own nozzle/heater. How to modify **latest Marlin** for this?? Please, all help appreciated, thanks a lot.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The latest Marlin, version 2.0.8, allows for multiple extruders (albeit with a single or multiple stepper motors) through a single nozzle, or multiple extruders with multiple nozzles, it is not possible with the current compiler definitions to configure a mixed extruder nozzle concept; this would require more changes to the sources.
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Tags: marlin, anet-a8
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thread-11963 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11963 | Ender 3 Extruder First Layer Perfect But Then Starts Clicking Afterwards | 2020-02-06T07:07:32.430 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Extruder First Layer Perfect But Then Starts Clicking Afterwards
All of a sudden I seem to be having a lot of issues with under extruding on my Ender 3. The bottom layer (of height 0.1 mm) prints perfectly fine. This is done at 15 mm/s speed. However, The moment the print moves to layer 2 and above (at the default speed of 60 mm/s), I start hearing a lot of clicking noise on the extruder.
So far I have tried the following
* Replace nozzle to eliminate clogs
* Cleaned the inside of the hot end assembly
* Calibrated extruder steps/mm
* Reduced the layer height from 0.3 mm to 0.2 mm
* Reduced feed rate to as low at 50 %
* Cleaned the filament feeder assembly and verified that it is able to push the filament properly (Extruding when the print is not happening works just fine with no clicking)
Even with all the above, the issue is still persisting. I am not what else could be causing this.
I am printing with PLA at 200 C
# Answer
Not allowed to comment, so have to answer:
1. The temperature sensor is a thermally sensitive resistor. Unfortunately, the temperature is near the high limit of that sensor, and the manufacturing tolerances are very significant. That is why a temperature tower is important for each printer, as well as each filament. (I have 4 printers and each requires a different temperature for the same filament. My worst-case is out by 25 degrees! - it's the one I bought second-hand because the original purchaser couldn't get it to work. I could replace the NTC, but it is easier just to have settings to suit that printer.)
2. Filament does change over time. Lots of theories about why, but the practical response is to tune settings to suit the filament. The alternative is to modify the filament (eg drying, adding oil to surface, etc.), but even with really old filament, I've found adjusting settings (in the slicer, like Cura) to be the most generally workable solution.
Bottom line is to test, adjust settings and repeat until the system achieves the result you need. Treat most recommendations as serving suggestions, so use them as clues (but not rules) for the puzzles presented as 3D printing.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I also had the extruder drive slipping backwards (clicking sound) as well and narrowed it down to a Cura update that had changed my Ender 3 machine settings from Marlin to Marlin (volume metric).
Once changed back to Marlin, all is well now. No over extruding. Before reversing the change, I had to reduce the flow rate to 53 %. Now, I’m back to 100 % and very good prints.
Printing with eSun PETG, with the following settings:
* temperature: 235 °C,
* retraction 6 mm @ 25 mm/sec,
* initial height 2 mm,
* all others 1.8 mm,
* speed 30 mm/sec,
* fan on 50 % at layer 3 - no stringing.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I bought an Ender 3 and I had the same problem.
I was changing few things and finally got success when I changed the nozzle to the second one (I had two in the set). At the end changing the nozzle was the primary step, but in my opinion more important was reduce speed printing, from 100 % to 80 %.
Since this simple modification (till now) all prints are fine now.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I too had this problem recently. I followed all the many hundreds of steps people suggested and nothing helped. I unistalled Cura 4.4 restarted my computer, installed Cura 4.1 problem fixed. Cura was the problem in my case.
> 0 votes
# Answer
A temperature of 200 °C is fine. You probably have heat creep from a Bowden style extruder. The filament starts getting softer due to heat creeping up from the hot nozzle. Filament expands and clogs the tube causing gear clicking. Usually there is a heat sink at the the Bowden tube connection. You need to cool that immediately. Which is, to set your fan to 100 % speed at layer height = 0. That should do the trick!
> -2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, extruder, creality-ender-3, extrusion
--- |
thread-5579 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5579 | Heated bed for the XYZprinting da Vinci mini w | 2018-03-01T02:09:02.790 | # Question
Title: Heated bed for the XYZprinting da Vinci mini w
Anybody ever tried to retrofit a heatbed to the da Vinci mini w with the proper dimensions (165 mm x 165 mm or 6.5" x 6.5").
Where can I find a heatbed that fits and a corresponding power supply / PID controller?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Instead of replacing the bed, you could invest in a silicone heating element and top it off with a piece of (Borosilicate) glass.
If the printer board has exposed headers to attach a heated bed, which is possible, but not certain, you could use an SSR (solid state relay) to power the bed using the signal from the board to set the temperature. Alternatively use a thermostat for an incubator to create the signal for the SSR. Note that all these parts can be sourced from those typical online websites.
In case the wires of the silicone heater stick out, use a layer of cork where you cut out space for the cables and thermistor.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I mounted four 10 W resistors under the bed and connected them in parallel to the SKR1.4 board, I installed in the mini. If you still have the original board, you can connect the resistors to any power source with enough power to drive the load, preferably 24 V.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I decided to go the way of a silicon heat pad (12V/24V) 200 W. I got the unit and a 3 mm glass bed. Clipped it to the aluminum, and promptly the head crashed into the side of the bed!
Lesson learned. The Mini in order to go home transitions to a spot at the front of the bed and actually lower than the bed. This is so that you can level the bed manually by adjusting 4 screws on the gantry. The gantry sits on the bed thus leveling it to the bed. Because of this, there is only about 4 mm of height available.
One individual who added a heated placed a riser under the z-axis to overcome this limitation. My other thought is to replace the aluminum bed with a glass bed and have the heater on either side of the bottom gantry as there is about 2 mm space there. Since there is an end stop the unit is using others have simply moved this up to match the new height of the bed.
I am assuming \[HOW TO\] Da Vinci Mini Heatbed Conversion would have attempted a software patch before doing a physical riser. While in some ways I would feel better raising the riser, I decided to extend the tab on the extruder head to intercept the sensor instead.
---
Tags: heated-bed, xyz-da-vinci-mini-w
--- |
thread-6914 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6914 | Filament isn't going into the Bowden tube, instead it goes "into the room" | 2018-09-14T17:06:07.100 | # Question
Title: Filament isn't going into the Bowden tube, instead it goes "into the room"
*The pictures explain my problem. I have already tried to reduce the retraction but that showed no effect. Thank you for your help.*
The effect is a total stop of the print (no material is extruded).
* Creality CR 10
* Cura 3.4.1
I recently added this new feeder aluminium block because the 3D printed stock version was bad quality.
# Answer
This is typically caused by resistance in the tube or hotend but in your case it appears to be mostly caused by a very poorly designed extruder. The filament needs to be constrained closer to the drive gear. You may be able to drill out the PTC connector to allow the PTFE tube to reach closer to the gears or print a spacer to fit in between but you need to support the filament in that gap.
You can try raising the hotend temperature as a band-aid until you can fix the problem, do not exceed 240 C if you have a PTFE lined hotend. Long retractions can also pull molten filament into the cold zone where it solidifies and make extrusion harder.
As an example, here is a picture of a Bondtech BMG extruder. Note how the extruder constrains the filament path all the way from the drive gear to the hotend entrance. While this example is extreme for normal PLA/PETG/ABS, it is required for flexible filament. A 4mm gap (or closer) should be fine for PLA/PETG/ABS or other hard filaments.
> 14 votes
# Answer
Your extruder is encountering resistance and the filament path is too open.
Your teeth seem to be biting in too hard. Loosen up your tensioners a bit. Teeth biting too hard deforms the filament. Does that rough looking stuff feed through the tube smoothly? Any rough bits can catch anything in the filament path?
It is preferable for the motor to skip when there is a problem, rather than waste filament, so maybe turn down your motor vref too.
How well does filament feed by hand, and with no teeth marks on it? Significantly better, or about the same? Does the bowden tube have and kinks or bends in it? Those effectively shrink the diameter of the tube and really put the squeeze on filament passing through.
Does your hotend have proper thermal preparation? Lots of insulation on the block, and a good strong cooling fan? Too little insulation will cause too much power to be used, and raise the melt area. Too little cooling (especially with PLA) will also allow the melt area to rise (called heat creep). If pointing a big fan at the printer fixes the problem, it's probably hotend cooling related. If it makes it worse, it's hotend insulation related.
> 9 votes
# Answer
There are two parts to this problem.
**First**, the extruder is meeting too much resistance in the print. There can be several causes, from the first layer being too low, a blocked nozzle, too low a print temperature, or printing too fast, so the viscosity of the filament just makes it too hard to pass through the nozzle. Usually, several of these will be in play together.
**Second**, the extruder design allows the filament to bend as it leaves the drive gears. Typically, this problem is seen most with flexible filament because that will obviously collapse more easily under compression for a given unsupported length.
The trigger is the first group, the second part determines the resiliance of your setup to this problem. Once the break point is reached, there is no recovery. You can retract the filament, but trying to resume the print will just set the extruder back to the same absolute position.
First, check that you can extrude OK in free space, without any drop in temperature. Also check your extrusion steps calibration - if you're extruding 110% of what the print is expecting, the extrusion back pressure can build up to a point of failure. Check the first layer, check the calibration.
> 6 votes
# Answer
You just have to cut the filament at a 45° angle. Then push down the extruder and push the filament in. Then heat up the nozzle. Next, hand feed the filament until the filament starts oozing out.
> -1 votes
---
Tags: filament, extruder, creality-cr-10
--- |
thread-16282 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16282 | Do hygroscopic filaments (PVA, Nylon) absorb moisture while in a heated enclosure | 2021-05-13T07:01:03.303 | # Question
Title: Do hygroscopic filaments (PVA, Nylon) absorb moisture while in a heated enclosure
I’m new to using PVA support filament, and have read it is especially prone to absorbing moisture out of the atmosphere. People made it sound like it starts to happen quickly, and if you aren’t supposed to leave it on the machine overnight, what’s the difference between that and doing an overnight print with the roll?
I’m building an enclosure for the printer (BCN3D Sigma, filament lives in the build space), expect the ambient temperature when printing PLA to be ~35 °C, unless I add an active heating element (100 W lightbulb possibly). The question is, do the hygroscopic materials continue to absorb moisture in a warm, toasty environment? And if so, do I need to construct a dry box for the filament to live in as it prints?
A frugal attempt at research brought back this: As noted by the Sciencing.com website article "How Temperature & Humidity are Related":
> As air temperature increases, air can hold more water molecules, and its relative humidity decreases. When temperatures drop, relative humidity increases.
After adding an inexpensive thermometer + hygrometer, I can report my enclosure, heated passively with the heat bed, isn’t very effective at raising the temperature and even less impressive at lowering the relative humidity. With the bed at PLA temperature (65 °C) for 2 hours, the temperature raised from 22 °C to 28 °C, and the relative humidity lowered from 32 % to 29 %.
I may go for an active heating element and will report back on what happens when the chamber is hotter.
# Answer
> 3 votes
The concept that relative humidity decreases with an air temperature increase runs consistent with the concept of using a food dehydrator to purge moisture from filament spools. As the filament heats up, energy is imparted to the water molecules within. The dryer air around the spool will accept the moisture and "distribute" it to the environment. A warmed enclosed chamber will not have much humidity to endanger the filament.
I have a Sigma R16 and have moved the spools to the outside of the enclosure, but I don't plan to print hygroscopic materials in the near future. I suppose I'd have to build some form of drying enclosure around the spools, particularly for nylon and PVA.
My Qidi3D X-Max has both internal and external spool mounts and it is recommended to use the internal mount for nylon, as even an hour's exposure to humidity can deteriorate print quality.
PLA is safe for days, ABS is safe for perhaps less, but PVA is not a good overnight exposure material and nylon is definitely an inside-the-box condition.
I suspect that having the filament inside your Sigma, especially if you plan to fully enclose it, is not going to be problematic. I created a front panel for my Sigma to reduce ABS warping and the internal temperatures reached 37 °C. That's warm enough to keep the water clear of the filament, unless you have an extremely humid environment.
Before you add an additional heater, consider to place a perforated container of color-change desiccant inside the build chamber and observe over time the color change. Obviously when not printing, seal the desiccant from collecting non-test humidity, but I think you'll find it's pretty dry while you're printing.
---
Tags: enclosure, nylon, pva
--- |
thread-15966 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15966 | How to improve this Benchy? BIQU B1 | 2021-03-29T00:01:48.050 | # Question
Title: How to improve this Benchy? BIQU B1
I have just acquired my first 3D printer, a BIQU B1. Overall I'm quite pleased with the printing results but I'm having minor defects on the Benchy test. I'm not sure what the problem is, but I guess it's related to the overhang and maybe vibrations.
My print settings are:
* Software: Ultimaker Cura
* Temp: 205 °C
* Heatbed temp: 60 °C
* Height: 0.2 mm
* Print speed: 60 mm/s
* Travel speed: 150 mm/s
* Flow: 94 %
# Answer
After two weeks of working on different settings in different slicers, I finally have a profile which has improved the quality of my printings. It still has some overhangs, which I'm sure will improve by increasing the cooling flow like 0scar already mentioned.
Here is the profile bundle (for Prusa Slicer): Link or see this answer below.
> 2 votes
# Answer
From the Benchys, it is apparent that the temperature is quite high or that there is not enough part cooling flow. This can be seen from the sagging of unsupported overhanging structures. Considering the bow of the Benchy is quite fine, the most probable cause is the temperature, usually with too less part cooling flow, the bow shows defects.
Please note that a Benchy is a gimmick that does show defects, but it isn't a calibration object, there are many other different test prints available.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I agree with this answer. There might be an obstruction in the cooling. I also have a B1, have you checked the included printed part that redirects the blower fans towards the part and made sure it's clear? Mine came with some warping that I had to file off.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Code from Celtic's answer:
```
# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.3.0+win64 on 2021-04-17 at 15:16:02 UTC
[print:BIQU B1 - Standard]
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 1
avoid_crossing_perimeters_max_detour = 75%
bottom_fill_pattern = monotonic
bottom_solid_layers = 4
bottom_solid_min_thickness = 0
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_angle = 0
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 50
brim_width = 0
clip_multipart_objects = 1
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
complete_objects = 0
default_acceleration = 0
dont_support_bridges = 1
draft_shield = 0
elefant_foot_compensation = 0
ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 0
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
external_perimeter_speed = 50%
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extrusion_width = 0.4
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 20%
fill_pattern = cubic
first_layer_acceleration = 0
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0
first_layer_height = 0.28
first_layer_speed = 20
gap_fill_speed = 20
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_label_objects = 0
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_anchor = 600%
infill_anchor_max = 50
infill_every_layers = 1
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0.48
infill_first = 0
infill_only_where_needed = 0
infill_overlap = 30%
infill_speed = 60
inherits =
interface_shells = 0
ironing = 0
ironing_flowrate = 15%
ironing_spacing = 0.1
ironing_speed = 15
ironing_type = top
layer_height = 0.2
max_print_speed = 80
max_volumetric_speed = 0
min_skirt_length = 50
notes =
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1
ooze_prevention = 0
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
overhangs = 1
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
perimeter_speed = 50
perimeters = 4
post_process =
print_settings_id =
raft_layers = 0
resolution = 0
seam_position = aligned
single_extruder_multi_material_priming = 1
skirt_distance = 5
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slice_closing_radius = 0.049
small_perimeter_speed = 40%
solid_infill_below_area = 70
solid_infill_every_layers = 0
solid_infill_extruder = 1
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0
solid_infill_speed = 50%
spiral_vase = 0
standby_temperature_delta = -5
support_material = 0
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_auto = 1
support_material_buildplate_only = 0
support_material_contact_distance = 0.2
support_material_enforce_layers = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0.35
support_material_interface_contact_loops = 0
support_material_interface_extruder = 1
support_material_interface_layers = 3
support_material_interface_spacing = 0
support_material_interface_speed = 100%
support_material_pattern = rectilinear
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 60
support_material_synchronize_layers = 0
support_material_threshold = 0
support_material_with_sheath = 1
support_material_xy_spacing = 50%
thin_walls = 0
threads = 24
top_fill_pattern = monotonic
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0
top_solid_infill_speed = 80%
top_solid_layers = 4
top_solid_min_thickness = 0
travel_speed = 150
wipe_tower = 0
wipe_tower_bridging = 10
wipe_tower_no_sparse_layers = 0
wipe_tower_rotation_angle = 0
wipe_tower_width = 60
wipe_tower_x = 180
wipe_tower_y = 140
xy_size_compensation = 0
[filament:BIQU B1 - GSDT - PLA+ Silver]
bed_temperature = 50
bridge_fan_speed = 100
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
compatible_prints =
compatible_prints_condition =
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 1
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
extrusion_multiplier = 1
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 100
filament_colour = #8B8B8B
filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4
filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2
filament_cooling_moves = 4
filament_cost = 1000
filament_density = 1.3
filament_deretract_speed = nil
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_load_time = 0
filament_loading_speed = 28
filament_loading_speed_start = 3
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15
filament_notes = ""
filament_ramming_parameters = "120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6"
filament_retract_before_travel = nil
filament_retract_before_wipe = nil
filament_retract_layer_change = nil
filament_retract_length = nil
filament_retract_lift = nil
filament_retract_lift_above = nil
filament_retract_lift_below = nil
filament_retract_restart_extra = nil
filament_retract_speed = nil
filament_settings_id = ""
filament_soluble = 0
filament_spool_weight = 1000
filament_toolchange_delay = 0
filament_type = PLA
filament_unload_time = 0
filament_unloading_speed = 90
filament_unloading_speed_start = 100
filament_vendor = (Unknown)
filament_wipe = nil
first_layer_bed_temperature = 50
first_layer_temperature = 195
full_fan_speed_layer = 4
inherits =
max_fan_speed = 100
min_fan_speed = 100
min_print_speed = 10
slowdown_below_layer_time = 10
start_filament_gcode = "; Filament gcode\n"
temperature = 195
[filament:BIQU B1 - PETG]
bed_temperature = 70
bridge_fan_speed = 35
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
compatible_prints =
compatible_prints_condition =
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 3
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
extrusion_multiplier = 1
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 100
filament_colour = #29B2B2
filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4
filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2
filament_cooling_moves = 4
filament_cost = 0
filament_density = 0
filament_deretract_speed = nil
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_load_time = 0
filament_loading_speed = 28
filament_loading_speed_start = 3
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15
filament_notes = ""
filament_ramming_parameters = "120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6"
filament_retract_before_travel = nil
filament_retract_before_wipe = nil
filament_retract_layer_change = nil
filament_retract_length = 4
filament_retract_lift = nil
filament_retract_lift_above = nil
filament_retract_lift_below = nil
filament_retract_restart_extra = nil
filament_retract_speed = nil
filament_settings_id = ""
filament_soluble = 0
filament_spool_weight = 0
filament_toolchange_delay = 0
filament_type = PET
filament_unload_time = 0
filament_unloading_speed = 90
filament_unloading_speed_start = 100
filament_vendor = (Unknown)
filament_wipe = nil
first_layer_bed_temperature = 75
first_layer_temperature = 235
full_fan_speed_layer = 0
inherits =
max_fan_speed = 35
min_fan_speed = 35
min_print_speed = 15
slowdown_below_layer_time = 20
start_filament_gcode = "; Filament gcode\n"
temperature = 235
[printer:BIQU B1 (No Z Hop)]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 (With Z Hop)]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 1
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v1]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 3
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v2]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v3]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 4
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v4]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 4
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Beta v1]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Beta v2]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7.5
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0.5
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[presets]
print = BIQU B1 - Standard
sla_print =
sla_material =
printer = BIQU B1 (With Z Hop)
filament = BIQU B1 - GSDT - PLA+ Silver
```
> 1 votes
---
Tags: pla, troubleshooting, biqu-b1
--- |
thread-16283 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16283 | Z-Axis on a winch | 2021-05-13T09:44:07.277 | # Question
Title: Z-Axis on a winch
In Prusa i3 clones the Z axis is often problematic. Mechanically unsynchronized dual Z axises which are driven by the same stepper driver easily misalign. Using only one Z motor makes the whole gantry sag on one side. And Z lead screws that aren't perfectly straight lead to z wobble.
The other day I had a simple idea that would fix all of that, but I can't find anyone who implement it before, so I probably there are drawbacks that I don't see.
The idea is to remove the lead screws (possibly replacing it with a second set of smooth rods to counteract X axis vibrations) and instead hang the gantry onto two ropes/wires which are drawn by a winch. That way, both ends of the gantry could be drawn symmetricaly by a single motor. Since there is no Z lead screw, there is no wobble. And since only the gravity is pulling the gantry down, you shouldn't be able to destroy anything by ramming the nozzle into the bed.
What drawbacks are there for this system? What am I missing? Is the gravity strong enough to press the nozzle into the last layer when printing? I am using a direct drive extruder.
---
Supplemental follow up question (related to, and answered by, Trish's answer):
> From my understanding the hangprinter is only attached to ropes, same as a portal crane. I am considering an i3-style printer with the leadscrews removed, but the smooth Z rods intact (maybe even with a second set of smooth rods in place of the leadscrews. So the only forces that gravity has to work against are: output pressure of the extruder and potential bouncing in z direction. So, how could I calculate if gravity is enough for that?
# Answer
This concept already exists, it is e.g. found in some high quality 3D printers. Instead of a winch, a belt system (of several belts) is used.
An interesting point from this answer already mentions that a winch isn't a good mechanism to lower/raise the gantry; if the cables are wound over each other the diameter of the wound cables will get larger and thus the movement. This could be circumvented by creating a push pull system and very few windings on the winch.
But, this concept already has been worked out in the VORON 2.4 printer design. This design is based on the work of a group of engineers and is considered to be a high quality printer that is also suitable for professional use. From the following image you can see (on the right side) a belt. This design uses 4 linear rails to support and guide the bed and 4 belts to drive the whole CoreXY gantry up and down.
So, a winch will not work, but the type of suspension already exists and is in use.
---
With respect to the i3 style printers and the free gantry movement the following is from my own experience.
*I've build several i3 style printers of which my latest 2 where all having a freely moving gantry upwards as I decoupled the lead screw from the X mounts. The lead screw nuts simply push the gantry up as they are embedded in a separate part; gravity will pull the gantry down. The mass of the guide rods, a stepper motor and the hotend provide enough mass to pull it down. I've had excellent results with these printers, e.g. mentioned in this answer:*
> poor layer bonding and possibly even collisions between the nozzle and already-printed material, from slight variations in height where extrusion pushes back against gravity
*is not encountered. The following images give an impression of the lifting device:*
> 2 votes
# Answer
## That's a crane. Cranes are low constrained
What you are proposing is a portal crane. Have you ever seen a container portal crane in operation?
Containers are strung up at the 4 corners and lifted from long cables. They move on their path because the container is super heavy and they have had years to finetune the acceleration profile. But the container sways and swings from side to side during airtime because the cables hang!
Only in a container lifter, where the container is carried by a gantry that is constrained on 4 corners **and** very heavy to keep the cables tight and taunt at every moment, you get the needed constrainment, and now we are talking that the claw lifting the container weighs in the order of tons.
Scaled-down to a printer, a napkin estimation of the gantry tells me that it would need to weigh in the order of about half a dozen kilos to ensure that nothing in the printer path could force the nozzle up - and the motors you need now are actually high power servos as you find them in heavy CNC equipment. However, that's for a conventional crane: the printhead hangs straight down, the mounting point of the crane is moving, and the high mass is to try and reduce swaying as we go really really slow.
### extreme example of low constrainment: Hangprinter
The same problem was present in the hangprinter \- in the idea that is a free-floating gantry with little to no limitations. The main problem it faces is layer accuracy because of the length of the ropes. The suspension stretches as a factor of the length of them, making movement complicated, but solvable. By using polyester that has no real stretching and mounting the wires in a triangular fashion by three cables, the printer becomes self-stabilizing. But the free-floating makes it extremely vulnerable to imparted errors from outside, such as wind or just the building swaying. Also, its print volume is a cone.
## Constraining the gantry
Of course, we don't want to have a free-hanging gantry like a hangprinter. But now we need to constrain the gantry. With a quad of rods, that'd be enough, similar to how they are in the haulers on the ground in container harbors. That constrainment also reduces the needed weight to make it resilient to shifting, but the gantry still needs to be somewhat heavy to prevent the shifting weight to alter the balance - the gantry itself should be at least three times as heavy as the printhead to minimize the lifting cables stretching differently when the printhead moves left and right.
However, the setup still suffers from some large downsides:
The smallest problem is the elongation of cables under stress. While this is dependant on the length of cable, so the lifting profile isn't exactly linear, the right material choice can fix this.
A bigger problem is the diameter of the spool changing with the number of windings that the cable is coiled up over, adding more non-linearity, and this is hard to predict in the worst case. If one side gets its cable into the next layer while the other doesn't, this could force a tilting force onto the gantry.
Tilting forces of enough strength could, in the worst case, press the bearings in such a way against the rods that the result in a lock-up situation where the gantry isn't going anywhere. This could be solved with some engineering ingenuity and proper tolerancing.
Another problem is, that while constrained to the *down* direction, the setup isn't constrained to the up direction, making it possible to push the gantry up to the top, but the weight will get it back to the print level again. However, such a bump might result in the force on the motor losing a few steps, giving us *layer shifting* in the vertical. This is an outside-induced error though.
To mitigate most, if not all of these problems, you would need to use cables in both directions (one to hoist, one to prevent lift), which basically makes this a continuous belt-attached gantry and mitigates any requirement for a heavy gantry to keep the cables stretched. A well-designed set of loops also would prevent tilt-locking the gantry as the cable can't get mis-wound - possibly even all driven by one motor.
## Mechanically linked setups
What you are looking for are mechanically linked/synchronized Z-axis'. That actually can be done without needing pulleys. A single motor *can* turn both leadscrews easily if it was connected to both with a proper motion train. Examples are using a chain and gears, or just a gear train using a horizontal axle and two pairs of angled gears to turn the leadscrews. Take a look into how heavy machinery synchronizes axis'.
If you want to go with a pair of belt-loops, you could have a single motor turn an axle upon which the gears for both belts are mounted, resulting in synchronized movement of both belts and the required constrainment on both belts. An example using 4 belts is the machine mentioned by 0scar. However, keep in mind that you want non-stretchy belts for this and to keep them tuned well.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I have thought about this same type of problem before and my solution is to use CoreXZ!
Let me explain. With CoreXY the effector (the thing that the hot end is on) moves on the X and Y axes. However, there is no reason why this solution can't be turned 90 degrees to stand vertically. Once paired with a normal Prusa/RepRap Y axis, you end up with CoreXZ (which is supported in Marlin already I believe). You eliminate 1 motor, and the mechanism is inherently sag proof, assuming it's been built properly.
The only downside is the gravity issue. If the gantry is too heavy, when the motors are turned off, the X will fall and slam into the print.
This problem can be mitigated somewhat by:
* Never turning off the motors until the bed has been moved out from under the gantry and the gantry has returned to the home position. If you want the home position to be at the top of the frame, then suitably sized magnets can be used to restrain the effector at the top as opposed to the bottom (some trial and error may be required).
* Use a counterweight on a pulley to offset the mass of the gantry.
* Use a constant force spring to ensure that the gantry always gets pulled upwards instead of falling downwards. (I once used constant force springs on a design. It gave an interesting and unexpected result. Instead of pulling the gantry upwards the slight variances in the pulling force resulted in the gantry twisting and then getting stuck. So instead of falling or rising the system just "magically" held in place. A happy accident.)
* Use a "Double Pole Double Throw" relay to short circuit the phases of the stepper motors once the power or other control system has been turned off. When you short circuit a stepper motor, the back electromotive force makes the spindle much harder to turn (you should try this for yourself). You can use that effect to make a rudimentary braking system.
* Lastly, make sure the linear rails you use are sticky. Less friction in this setup will allow the gantry to fall easier. Therefore using a linear rail solution that is both accurate enough and provides adjustable friction would help mitigate this problem.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Unless your gantry is extremely heavy, I don't think this will work. The Z motion system needs to not only lift, but to hold the nozzle rigidly at the desired distance from the bed/previous layer. Otherwise I would expect poor layer bonding and possibly even collisions between the nozzle and already-printed material, from slight variations in height where extrusion pushes back against gravity.
> 1 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, z-axis
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thread-16299 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16299 | What is "silk PLA"? | 2021-05-16T16:19:03.050 | # Question
Title: What is "silk PLA"?
I picked up some no-name "silk" PLA in a multi color pack as part of a project where I needed some additional distinct colors and structural properties didn't matter, but now I'm playing with the excess I'm not using for that, and its behavior is really weird. On overhangs with detail on the downward-facing surface it's like everything flowed/melted together rather than retaining the extruded shape. And on vertical surfaces where one would expect to see layer lines, the lines are present and can be felt and slightly seen, but don't seem to contibute to the sheen/reflective properties like how they would in normal PLA or other materials. Together these observations make me suspect there's an additive that melts to a state where it flows much more than the base PLA at PLA printing temperatures, coalescing into more of a uniform smooth surface.
What are the likely additives in "silk PLA" filaments, and what printing/mechanical properties should we expect from them?
Some further observations: pushing it out of the hotend by hand, it has *a lot* of die swell, almost up to the original 1.75 mm diameter, and if tension is released it tries to retreat back into the nozzle. This suggests to me there might be some sort of foaming type additive involved, and also explains the behavior on overhangs.
# Answer
> 5 votes
# Silk PLA is a descriptor
Silk PLA is a description of how the PLA looks. It is a separation from Glossy and Matte that is taken over from paints: Gloss, Silk, and Matte are the three general types any paint can come in, indicating different reflectiveness of high, intermediate, and low respectively.
As a result, Silk-PLA is designed in such a way to get some sheen without looking all shiny/glossy.
Most PLAs are modified with various additives anyway to achieve good printing or specific looks, silk PLAs use theirs to get the sheen often attributed to silk. A common additive that gets a nice sheen in paints is Mica, but most PLAs are made silky-shiny by adding a slight bit of various TPE - Elastomers. That is not one but a whole group of materials that is added!
As a result of being a polymer mixed with additives, you need to tune for each material, brand and color combination anyway.
### Further reading
# Answer
> 2 votes
It has additives to the PLA to change its characteristics.
> Typically, “silk” filaments are enhanced PLA filaments, owing their glossy result to various additives. As such, they tend to show most of the same pros and cons of PLA filament. In the case where silk filaments have a different base, these would be expected to have similar properties to the base material. For this article, we’ll focus mostly on PLA-based silk filaments.
-- Silk PLA Filament: Best Brands
The article goes on to say that this does modify how the material prints and thus may need different parameters on your printer from normal PLA. You can get silk PLA in different brands. There doesn't seem to be a standard composition, so each brand may behave differently.
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Tags: pla, filament
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thread-16308 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16308 | Laptop keycaps for Asus UX31A | 2021-05-17T22:53:19.370 | # Question
Title: Laptop keycaps for Asus UX31A
I broke 2 keys (i.e. left ctrl, enter) on my Asus UX31A laptop and it seems that this model is too old to find replacement keys.
Is there any way I can find a 3D model of the needed keys to have them 3D printed?
I do not have a printer nor I have any experience in this field. What I need is either someone that has models for these or that can point me where I can find such models.
# Answer
> 2 votes
This is more off-topic as an answer, but serves as a possible solution.
Replacementlaptopkeys.com is a resource that appears to have keycaps for the model you've noted.
https://www.replacementlaptopkeys.com/asus-zenbook-ux31a-db71-laptop-keys-replacement-dark-brown-black/
At seven dollars a key, it's going to be less expensive than 3D printing to accomplish your objective.
If you owned a 3D printer, it would not be less expensive to purchase, but the work involved would increase your cost to have such keys commissioned. As a 3D printed object, the strength is going to be less than a keycap purchased from the linked site.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You're better off if you can get the key from Fred's link. I was impressed by the detail of a 3D-printed battery cover for electronic calipers, but I'm sure it took much work to get it right. Also, ebay has keyboards for your model.
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Tags: 3d-models, repair
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