id
stringlengths 8
14
| url
stringlengths 40
58
| title
stringlengths 2
150
| date_created
stringdate 2008-09-06 22:17:14
2024-03-31 23:12:03
| text
stringlengths 149
7.14M
|
|---|---|---|---|---|
thread-16284 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16284 | Height of the prints are always larger | 2021-05-13T11:35:54.940 | # Question
Title: Height of the prints are always larger
This problem is driving me crazy, no, seriously speaking. I bought this printer this week and started to calibrate for accurate dimensions. I printed the one-and-only calibration cube (20x20x20 also a 10x10x10) and well, the dimensions for the X & Y axis are perfect, but the Z-axis is a big problem, almost 1.5 mm bigger than expected.
I tried everything in order to resolve this issue, I checked to see if the steps are correctly calibrated using a ruler and moving my extruder up and down, precise as you expected, no weird sounds coming from the Z-axis and stepper while printing. I calibrated the E-Step, also the bed leveling is done automatically using the BLTouch probe. Also I want to mention that the first layer is perfect (took time to calibrate this too).
I am using Cura for slicing using the default profile for the Ender 3 Pro, Premium PLA, 210 °C for the first layer & 200 °C for the rest, 50 °C bed temperature.
I will leave here some photos, perhaps somebody could give me an idea.
As you can see from the images the Z-axis is scaled-up perfectly. This difference is about 1.5 mm for both cubes (the one with 20 mm & 10 mm).
**Has anyone encountered this type of problem before?**
**EDIT:** I will attach some pictures with the first layer. Right now I observe some wobbling in the Z axis and saw that the printer is not perfect laid on the table, one corner was lifted. So I tried to flatten. Waiting for the test print.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Since nobody had any idea what cause the problem, I investigated for a full week.
The problem is related to **Fade Height** and .... a **warp bed**, since I have ABL (Auto Bed Levelling) and Fade Height enable. The compensation was way too big, something like -1.4 or bigger.
So, after I bought a new glass bed and set the fade height to 0 the problem is gone and the prints are looking normal, like -.2 mm or -.3mm in heights.
---
Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, pla
--- |
thread-16314 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16314 | What is average price for 3D parabola? | 2021-05-18T20:07:42.980 | # Question
Title: What is average price for 3D parabola?
So I wanted to print a 3D parabola, with a radius of 15 cm and a height of 4 cm. I've told this company, they told me that they need 3.5 days and its price will be 147 USA dollars and 50 cents.
I just want to know what is the average price for this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The price dependss roughly on material, machine hours, operator labour, profit and administrative overhead. Some companies deduce the operator labour, machine hours and overhead to roughly 10 times the material cost. I think that is kind of fair. In your case I assume that you use PLA, the perabola is hollow (just a flat surface) and the company needs to construct the 3D model the parabola to a specific tolerance. this model in PLA should not cost more than \\$5 in filament, so about $ 50 should be an okay price for your parabola. The total price of \\$147 leaves about \\$97 for modeling the parabola. I think that's fair, given that a non-mathician has to find a way to construct a model and test the results. If, for example, you want a metal print and you provide the 3D model I find the price of \\$147 to be very normal. These metal printers are very expensive, labour intensive and eat up energy. You can get instant quotes at the following sites: https://xometry.eu/, https://formalize-am.com/ All above is just my best guess, given the data you provided. Expect a better answer when you provide more data.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer
--- |
thread-16271 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16271 | Print not sticking to bed | 2021-05-10T15:34:12.333 | # Question
Title: Print not sticking to bed
Today I ran into an issue with the filament not sticking to the build plate. However, the strange part is, that this only happens with one filament color (both PLA, khaki, black works just fine) and only in the main print. The test line on the side of the bed and the brim all stick without a problem. I already releveled everything and as I'm using ABL and the other filament works fine, this shouldn't be the issue.
I also tried increasing the first layer thickness in Cura, however, this leads to extreme warp (2 mm height on 5 mm width).
From my observations, it seems that the print head is raised after the brim is printed. Is there a setting in Cura to change that?
**Printer Details:** Modified Ender-3 with MKS Gen L V2 Board and TMC 2209 motor drivers and BLTouch
**Print temp:** 220 °C / 70 °C initial after that 200 °C / 60 °C
**Firmware:** Marlin, details here
# Answer
Thank you for all your answers! After many failed benchies I fixed the problem now, however I don't know exactly what the problem was so I'll list everything I did:
* Dried my filament
* Recalibrated the Z-Offset
* Turned around my print bed, as I noticed the warp always starts at a certain spot
The high temperature is actually a recommendation by the manufacturer (PM Filaments).
> 1 votes
# Answer
Yes you can edit many parameters in Cura that may help with your problem.
However, I believe an easier fix to this problem may be to either apply some glue or masking tape to the bed before you try to change Cura settings since the problem only occurs with just one filament type..
> 2 votes
# Answer
Your temperatures look pretty good. You could try raising both bed temperatures by 5°C.
You could try Elmer's glue stick or hair spray.
Make sure your Z height is still OK as well as your bed being level after you loaded the different filament.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, pla, adhesion
--- |
thread-16320 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16320 | Hotend is oozing out the sides and getting in the way of my print | 2021-05-19T18:38:10.900 | # Question
Title: Hotend is oozing out the sides and getting in the way of my print
My Ender 3 just started having this problem a couple of months ago. Prior to that the amount of excess filament showing up on the hotend was **very** minimal, but now it is oozing so much out of the top of the metal hotend, that it is hardening on my prints and hitting my extruder. How did this happen? and what can I do to fix this problem?
This is the hotend I have, a detailed image of my hotend is shown below:
The part of the hotend that I think is oozing is highlighted in purple/blue.
Here is the actual Image
---
~~There is now a clog somewhere, since I changed the filament yesterday, not sure if that is related, just thought I should mention it.~~ UPDATE: I fixed the clog, and it is not related to the hotend...
# Answer
Looking at the picture of your nozzle, it appears to seal against the heat break and not the Bowden tube. (A nozzle sealing against the heat break will have an entry hole of about 2 mm dia. for 1.75 mm filament. A nozzle will have an opening large enough for the Bowden tube to slip into if it seals against the Bowden tube.)
If your heat break is all metal, you have an all metal hot end that can extrude above 250 °C. If your heat break has a Teflon tube inside it, your hot has a highest temperature below 250 °C to avoid degrading the Teflon. Both follow the same procedure below, but you highest temperature for making the seal will be different.
To see if your nozzle is OK (not clogged), try pulling the filament out with the hot end at temperature (same procedure as unloading filament). Trim the irregularities off the filament while leaving a sharp end. Then, see if you can push the filament through the nozzle at extrusion temperature.
If still clogged, remove the nozzle (you will need to tighten it later anyway) and see if the filament will go through without the nozzle.
**After camera piture:** unless your hot end is all metal, the Bowden tube likely forms the seal to the nozzle. See if the length of the tube going into the hotend goes down to the nozzle. The end of the tube needs to be smooth to make the seal and the seal surface to the nozzle needs to be clean or the filament material soft enough to push out of the way. Pull up to release the tube. When you push down to lock the tube in, it should push the tube against the nozzle.
For an all metal hot end follow the procedure below.
**Before camera picture:** Sounds like you lost the seal between the nozzle and the heat break. For most hotends (unless you have a plastic tube that pushes up against the nozzle) heat up to the maximum hotend temperature, then tighten the nozzle tight against the heat break in the heat block, to form a seal between the two.
If the nozzle tightens against the heat block before the heat break, you won't get a seal. You should see some threads of the nozzle exposed and not in the heat block.
Take care not to over tighten the heat break in the heat sink because the heat break is thin going into the heat sink to minimize heat conduction and will easily break.
If your seal to the nozzle is with a plastic tube, investigate why you don't have a seal.
**Looking at picture:** Follow the above procedure while the heat break to the heat sink is of less consern since it appears that separate screws tighten it into the heat sink.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, hotend
--- |
thread-16227 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16227 | How do you remove rough edges from completed prints? | 2021-05-01T20:21:48.490 | # Question
Title: How do you remove rough edges from completed prints?
All of my completed prints come out with rough edges. What are some methods for removing rough edges from 3D prints? Also, are there any ways to reduce rough edges on prints? For reference, I use a FlashForge Adventurer 3 and PLA filament.
# Answer
> 6 votes
1. To remove unwanted residual material:
* You can scrape with a knife
* Use sand paper
* use files
* Very fine sandpaper or files can smooth out the rough surfaces left from filing or sanding.
* Dremel tools tend to be aggressive. They tend to melt the surface if too fast. Buffing wheels are probably the most useful on a Dremel. Dremel tools are good for cutting.
2. A deburring tool can remove sharp edges such as parts of the brim that don't want to come loose. However, it's not unusually to need to scrape off flat surfaces as well.
3. If you want to smooth out the surfaces left from layers, you can:
* Carefully use a heat gun or heat from other soldering tools; not spending too long in one spot. The difficulty with using heat is most prints have fill rather than being solid; so, with only two or three outside layers, it's easy to get the surface to deform into the fill. Also the print material will tend to stick to solid surfaces hot enough to melt the material.
* Use acetone on ABS. Don't breath the fumes or dissolve your print.
* Paint the surface as the comment from user77232
# Answer
> 1 votes
In some cases, you can remove sharp edges in the CAD model before printing. Outside corners can be rounded, inside corners can be filleted. This also can strengthen the part in some cases.
Older printers and software did not handle corners well, and so accidentally rounded corners. Newer printers that use controlled acceleration can make much sharper corners, so old or simple CAD models may not take that into account and may include unintended sharp edges.
# Answer
> 0 votes
There are several different ways you can go about doing this
1. You could calibrate your printer/software better that way so the slicer can make better gcode files that are best fit for you printer
2. Take a lighter to the edge and scrape everything off, this really helps for if your print gets really stringy, this balls all of the strings up and you can scrape if off
3. Use sandpaper, a file, or any type of abrasive tool to scrape the edge to get it smoother and flatter
4. Some filaments melt with acetone, so if your printing with that, this would be a good solution for you as well.
Here is a good video for every type of filament: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiy0KWuu9bwAhXyKDQIHf6iDasQwqsBMAt6BAgIEAE&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DvSwumoSlZTo&usg=AOvVaw1L7WcqmbsJ5OBhzp5CT8lH
---
Tags: print-quality, post-processing
--- |
thread-13436 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13436 | CR10 V2 under extruding and heating up too quickly | 2020-04-17T04:35:05.003 | # Question
Title: CR10 V2 under extruding and heating up too quickly
The heater cartridge on my CR10 V2 broke so I ordered a new one(12V). After replacing it the new one heats of very quickly past the target temperature and the slowly decreases to the target. Once it hits the target temp it goes up and down by 10 °C or so during prints. During the prints there is under extrusion. I read that if the filament gets hot too high up the hotted it could cause clogs. I replaced the nozzle as well and cleaned out everything.
Some things that I think may have an effect:
1. Could the new heater cartridge not be compatible?
2. does a poor solder job with heater cartridge wires have an effect
3. It's possible I messed up the thermistor when replacing heater cartridge, could that explain whats happening?
4. Is there anything else in the hot end assembly such as fans that would cause this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
This sounds as if you have bought an incorrect heater element, e.g. one for 12 V instead of 24 V. The CR-10 uses 24 V. The 12 V cartridge has a lower resistance, so when powered by 24 V, the current is much higher and therefore also the heating power ($ {(\frac{24}{12})}^2 = 4 $ times higher). For details on the calculation, the this answer on question: "PID autotune fails 'Temp too high' with 12 V heater cartridge but works with 24 V?". This makes the hotend heat up very fast resulting in a large overshoot. You need to replace the cartridge for one for 24 V.
---
*Note that I recently experienced exactly the same problem by mixing up the cartridges see this answer.*
# Answer
> 0 votes
funny I have the opposite worry, I have a CR10s5 and relaxed the whole hot end with the CR10v2 one and now I get a thermal error at 170 degrees and it shuts off, should I just replace the cartridge, or do I need to replace the fans tooo
---
Tags: extrusion, creality-cr-10, heat-management, underextrusion
--- |
thread-16304 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16304 | Stepper motor moving only to one side after reset | 2021-05-17T10:51:56.520 | # Question
Title: Stepper motor moving only to one side after reset
I come through this post, rescue a problem with my printer. It uses Arduino 2560 Mega, RAMPS 1.4, and Marlin 1.1.9, which had configured it left it working as follows: on the RAMPS the Y-axis is connected to the Z-axis pins, as it has two stepper motors on the Y-axis and the Z-axis is connected to the pins of E1.
I did all the basic and necessary configurations in the firmware and sent it to the Arduino, eliminating the previous configuration, so that I can configure the steps of the motor correctly, as they were out of calibration. Before the reset, the motors moved to both sides, positive and negative. However, when I sent the firmware to the Arduino, I can only rotate the motors on all axes only to one side.
On the printer display, I go to the option to move the axis, rotate it 10 mm and the axis moves. However when I move it backwards, it does not come back, it is stopped. This happens with all the axes after I did the reset. Is there any way to configure the rotation of the motors by the firmware in relation to pins A1, A2, B1, and B2 in the same way that the axis change on the RAMPS was configured?
I apologize for the mistakes, I speak Portuguese and I used a translator.
---
*I executed the command `M119` on the console of the Marlin IDE and the printer did nothing, it is correctly connected to the PC via the USB cable this appeared on the console screen:*
```
x_min: TRIGGERED
y_min: TRIGGERED
z_min: open
ok
```
# Answer
*Assuming that your `M119` command has been executed for non-depressed endstop switches, it could be concluded that the firmware is incorrectly configured.*
---
If you execute the `M119` G-code command and get `TRIGGERED` status values for endstops, even when the nozzle head is not pressing the endstop switches, then you have incorrectly configured the endstops in the Marlin configuration.h file.
The most common setup is to have the `COM` go to ground and `NC` to Signal, this requires the following values to be `false`, otherwise you need to use true.
```
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true// Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true// Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
```
When an endstop is reported to be triggered while the switch is not depressed, the logic needs to be reversed. Marlin firmware will only allow movement to go away from the endstop when it is triggered, never against a triggered endstop (as this might damage the printer).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, stepper, axis, ramps
--- |
thread-16303 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16303 | Ender 5 with 8-bit Creality 1.1.4 board- Issue with speed of extruder motor spinning too slow | 2021-05-17T05:32:58.747 | # Question
Title: Ender 5 with 8-bit Creality 1.1.4 board- Issue with speed of extruder motor spinning too slow
The issue I'm having is that the extruder motor is not spinning fast enough so the filament doesn't come out as fast as I would like it to.
In terms of the specs, the printer is an Ender 5 that has the Creality V1.1.4 8-bit motherboard in it. The only issue I need to fix is the rpm of the motor (Nema 17 stepper motor) because it doesn't spin fast enough.
I have tried changing the feed-rate settings in the Marlin firmware code but that didn't fix the problem. I found this video yesterday where a guy said that you have to change the steps per unit value in the code which depends on the micro-stepping value that's set for the stepper driver in the motherboard.
However, I don't know how to check or change this driver value so I searched up and found that usually for the A4988 drivers which are in the 1.1.4 board they're set to 1/16th micro-stepping. Online it says for 1/16th micro-stepping you need to change the extruder steps per mm value to 409 (rough estimate) in the marlin code (it was 93 before so I am wondering if changing this value would increase motor speed).
I don't know if this is a software issue or if it's because the stepper motor just isn't getting enough current due to the 8-bit board so if I swapped out the 8-bit board with a 32-bit board can I change the motor speed by increasing the amount of current that is sent to the stepper motor? Or does the board not really matter?
Sorry if the details aren't clear or something I said doesn't make sense as I am new to this.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I think you might be asking how to adjust your steps per mm, but if the motor is moving the correct distance, but at a slow speed, then it might just be a speed problem with settings, or whatever it might be. I have an Ender 3 but I think I might be able to show you how to calculate the steps per mm. There is a simple equation for this.
New E-steps=(target distance/actual distance moved)\*current E-steps
You can use this equation with a couple steps.
Step 1. Make your printer extrude 100 mm of filament, then measure with a digital caliper how much it actually extruded (or moved). Plug this measurement into your equation in the part "actual distance moved", and put 100 in the part "target distance". You can control the motors by going to: prepare then move axis.
step 2. Go to the steps per mm section.
Then use this value to fill in the "current E-steps"(but on your printer of course) In the end your equation should look like this: New E-steps=(100/your measurement)\*your current E-steps.
After you solve the equation, put the answer into the printer. To save your changes, go back two pages from "Steps per mm" and click the "store settings" button. This will save your changes onto your sd card, so make sure that it is in the slot when you do this. Also make sure that your sd card is in the printer at start-up, because it needs to boot up with the settings. (at least on the Ender 3)
---
Tags: marlin, extruder, motor, creality-ender-5
--- |
thread-15830 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15830 | Issues with printing and removing filament residue | 2021-03-09T03:27:56.833 | # Question
Title: Issues with printing and removing filament residue
When I print at the end when it is done the prints are lighter than they should, and they are thin enough that I can scrape the bottom away.
My second problem is that my filament gets stuck on the support rods and stops the filament from coming through the extruder.
And the final problem I have is when the bottom of my prints get stuck and won't come off and I need to learn how to clean it.
(The bed can come off and my printer is an Ender 3 Pro)
# Answer
> 1 votes
I think I know the answer to your first problem. Check your flow rates and wall thicknesses in the slicer settings. And if messing with some of those settings doesn't fix the problem, it might have to do with your steps per mm which I posted an answer here.
The other two problems I'm not really sure about. Just wanted to at least get one question cleared.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-16338 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16338 | Edit G-code to change print order of multiple one-at-a-time print jobs | 2021-05-21T20:58:18.823 | # Question
Title: Edit G-code to change print order of multiple one-at-a-time print jobs
SUMMARY: I use a Creality Ender 3 and Cura 4.8 slicer. I need to print multiple objects 'one-at-a-time' (Cura allows this, that is fine) and I must specify the order in which each model is printed but Cura does not have this facility. My question is: how can I change the order of the printed objects by editing the G-code?
DETAIL: Sometimes it is essential or useful to specify the order of printing multiple objects in a 'one-at-a-time' batch print to allow the printing of some objects that are taller than the X-gantry clearance together with other objects that are shorter than the gantry because if you can control the order then you can print the small objects first and then the tall objects (because the gantry won't get in the way of the already-printed small objects but if the tall objects are printed first then the gantry will crash into them). Specifically I am talking about two or more objects printed at roughly the same Y-level on the print bed (I know you can 'get-away' with it if you separate them in Y but I want to print multiple rows of such objects). Without control over print order this cannot be done thereby limiting productivity (number of models per print run).
WHAT HAVE I DONE TO RESOLVE THIS ALREADY: I can control the print order of multiple identical objects in Cura (they are printed in reverse order to their creation as duplicates of an initial model and if there are problems you can sometimes control the order by moving objects around) but this does not work for multiple different objects. I did several Google searches and found some conversations that deal with this issue including on the official GitHub page of the Cura slicer (see for example this Cura GitHub Discussion). The conclusion given by the Cura developers is that they understand the limitation, but it is not an issue for Ultimaker printers so they have no plans to make user-customisable print order a feature in Cura because it would be too much work for them to do the changes and maintain them. One person mentioned a python script to allow post editing of G-code to change print order but I could find no links to it. Another person described a 'workaround' in Cura to do with grouping and ungrouping models in a specific sequence but this does not work for me (?maybe it only worked in older versions of Cura). Perhaps someone on this forum has G-coding knowledge and could shed some light on how it may be done? \[PS: I am only interested in G-code editing solutions for this question, or a Cura workaround that works in v4.8 - I don't use Octoprint/Rasperry Pi controllers\].
Thanks.
\[EDIT\] Thanks to the contributors in the accepted answer I managed to do this with 'cut-and-paste' (via a small C program - you could do it manually but it is tedious and there is more risk of making a mistake if you have many models). I used the comments in Cura's G-code and a few other G-code cues to calculate the correct splice points.
It works **provided** you take care to ensure the new extruder code is either altered according to the new model positions or use the 'relative extrusion' mode when saving the original G-code from Cura (I used the latter method). Also you must splice the G-code at the right points to ensure pre-model start and post-model finish G-code commands are properly carried around and the final model in the original G-code needs a terminal G0 command to be constructed if it is no longer terminal in the new order so that it can properly position the nozzle to go to the next model in the chain. Also you need to ensure M107 is included prior to each model's first layer. There is danger in doing any of this - the new G-code might damage your printer if you get anything wrong - but it can work (at least it has for me).
I made several manual checks on the new re-arranged G-code as well as loading it into Cura and running Cura's nozzle simulator on it to ensure it does what I expected of it prior to risking running it in my printer, but after that it printed OK.
# Answer
> 3 votes
You can open the G-code file in any text editor and copy-paste the relevant sections of G-code to reorder them. It will be fairly obvious where one object ends and the next one starts because the printhead will move back down to Z=0; you can do a simple search to find the commands that move to Z=0 (in my version of Cura, it inserts a comment `;LAYER:0` at the start of each object).
To ensure that the extruder starts in the correct position, look back at the previous print (in the original order) to see where the extruder finished, then insert (at the start of the new print) `G92 Exx.xx` where `xx.xx` is the previous position of the extruder. If looking back to the previous print is too tedious, you can also just use the very first extruder position in the print itself and use that. It will just skip printing the very first section of brim/skirt, which doesn't make a big difference.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, g-code
--- |
thread-16343 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16343 | How can I print in multicolor with Ender 6? | 2021-05-22T21:20:42.400 | # Question
Title: How can I print in multicolor with Ender 6?
I'd like to make multicolor printing on Ender 6, but it seems that the filament change (`ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE`) doesn't work (it works on my Ender 3). Can you help me how can I solve that? How can I make the `ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE` available on Ender 6?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Enabling `ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE` requires a rebuild and upload/install of a new Marlin firmware. The option is found in the advanced configuration file (Configuration\_adv.h).
Please change:
```
//#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE
```
to:
```
#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE
```
Rebuild and install the firmware.
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, creality-ender-6
--- |
thread-16347 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16347 | Is 'natural' colored filament equally brittle compared to white filament? | 2021-05-23T01:37:58.927 | # Question
Title: Is 'natural' colored filament equally brittle compared to white filament?
I've read that white filament is a lot more brittle, because the pigment percentage is close to 50 %, e.g. black filament it's only around 8 %. I was therefore wondering if 'natural' colored filament, which has a somewhat ivory appearance, is also brittle like white filament.
Maybe the color name is a marketing lie or maybe it is really natural colored and there has slim to no pigment in the filament. Making it therefore less brittle. Since the color is closer to white than black I would guess the first one but I would love to be certain.
# Answer
## No
Natural colored filament has no pigments added, the ivory off-white color is the natural color of the mixture in the filament.
Also note, those white filaments can have much less than 50 % volume percentage of pigment, depending on the exact hue of white. The starkest cold whites might make that, warmer white can work with a lesser amount. Pigments are part of the filler materials. The other fillers make the filament behave in the designed way and can make up a considerable amount of the filament. Usually, less than 40 % are fillers compared to the PLA.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament, filament-choice, filament-quality, filament-production, stability
--- |
thread-16341 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16341 | Help With PLA settings | 2021-05-22T18:33:38.213 | # Question
Title: Help With PLA settings
I’m just getting my feet wet with 3D printing, and I’ve had a few prints do this. Curious if anyone has any ideas for me that might help clean this up? (I don’t really have anyone in my personal circle who can help out, so hoping this community can :) )
Edit 5/23 The first layer of the print is inconsistent in the way it’s deposited. Some areas feel correct while others are very thin. Usually there are large gaps like in the pictures below. After the first layer, the rest of the print seems to be fine. I’m curious is anyone has any insight into what could be causing the inconsistency.
I try to level the bed before each print, but I’m not sure if it’s at the correct height as the instructions I got with the printer are pretty subjective: “use a piece of A4 paper and you should be able to pull it with **some resistance**”.
# Answer
> 4 votes
It looks like your nozzle is a little too close to the bed, if there is not enough space, you can see through the layer and pressure can build up and ooze out when there is a little more room in a different location (if the bed isn't completely flat/straight).
You could level with a thicker piece of paper or add a Z-offset to the whole print ( e.g. in your slicer, or change the G-code by redefining the Z height).
You could *also* increase the first layer a little when slicing.
# Answer
> 3 votes
It looks like a bed adhesion problem to me. Some additive information: What is your bed material?
Z-calibration problem isn't the only suspect. I've seen the same problem with my printer before. There were defects in some parts of my glass print bed that prevented it from sticking.
The molten filament from the hot nozzle has two adhesion chances; full adhesion to the bed or adhesion next to the previous extruded filament. If the previous filament is not stuck to the bed, it means you are printing on the air shown in the pictures.
Without forgetting, your images also seem to have a Z-calibration problem, but as I said, I don't think it's the only suspect for blobs. It will be useful to clean the surface.
---
Tags: pla, filament, extruder, troubleshooting
--- |
thread-16340 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16340 | Is there lead in brass 3D printer nozzles? | 2021-05-22T18:17:00.110 | # Question
Title: Is there lead in brass 3D printer nozzles?
I was just wondering whether or not there is lead in brass 3D printer nozzles as I read that they do add lead when making brass to improve reliabilty or something along those lines?
I was curious as to whether the same reason applies to 3D printer nozzles and if it is enough to warrant buying a steel nozzle instead?
# Answer
> 5 votes
It's very likely that leaded brass is used in the manufacture of nozzles for 3D printers -- as noted by @AndrewMorton, this is done to improve machinability (the same is true of some steels, by the way) -- and when you're going to have to drill a hole potentially as small as 0.1 mm diameter, you want all the machinability you can get (I can say from experience that brass without the lead is very annoying to machine and likely to produce unacceptably high rates of broken tools and destroyed parts during that drilling operation).
That said, the amount of lead found in a single nozzle is very small, generally between 1.5% and 2.5% by mass -- a typical nozzle is only a few grams, so the lead content would be a few tens of milligrams. Further, ingested lead (as metal) is not a major toxicity issue, because stomach acid reacts to form insoluble lead chloride, which then passes through the gut almost unchanged (*some* lead will still be absorbed, but swallowing a whole lead bullet raises bodily lead loading less than breathing in a shooting range for an hour or two each week for a year, where lead compounds float in the air as smoke, both from primers and from unjacketed lead bullets).
If you, a child, or a pet ingested a used nozzle (say, you dropped it and couldn't find it and worry about your dog), it would be more likely to do harm by abrading the intestinal lining as it passes than by the toxicity of the tiny amount of lead in the metal. If this is a "today or yesterday" event, you should promptly consult an appropriate health care professional (physician, pediatrician, or veterinarian), who will likely want to take x-rays or CT scans to ensure the item passes through the gut rather than lodging somewhere along the way, as well as monitoring for symptoms of a complication (a perforated intestine is life-threatening, but relatively easy to repair if caught promptly; the surgery needed is similar to an appendectomy).
---
Tags: nozzle
--- |
thread-14304 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14304 | Is there any commercial supplier of 3D printed parts made from acrylic (PMMA)? | 2020-08-22T14:08:07.860 | # Question
Title: Is there any commercial supplier of 3D printed parts made from acrylic (PMMA)?
I was surprised to learn that, AFAICT, neither Protolabs, Xometry, or Shapeways\* can supply 3D printed parts from acrylic. Is anyone aware of a commercial source of 3D printed parts made from acrylic \[polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA)\]?
\*Shapeways does 3D print their "Fine Detail Plastic" which is an acrylic. However, during the printing process, the material is UV cured so, AFAIK, it is no longer a thermoplastic (as PMMA is). I need the thermoplastic property for my application.
# Answer
While I don't know of PMMA as a standard offering, I do know that a lot of the smaller entities will gladly accommodate custom requirements for the right price and an understanding that results may be inferior to their tried and true.
My recommendation is to google "3D Printing Service" and find what's local. Local will hopefully mean you don't have to wait for a shipment to review the quality.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Having melted acrylic on various occasions, I can hazard a guess why FDM isn't popular with this material: not only does it give off an acrid odor, the melted material is sticky and viscous, likely too much so to make into filament or to print reliably if so made. Most acrylic materials are made by curing a liquid resin, either with a catalyst ("casting resin", used among other things to make the spherical hulls of high visibility submarine vehicles) or with UV (these are different materials, but both in the acrylic family).
The "an acrylic" that Shapeways offers, being UV cured, is most likely a SLA ("resin") print. If it's any sort of acrylic, it should still be thermoplastic, but will suffer the same disadvantages as common "Plexiglas" acrylic PMMA -- very, very stinky stuff to melt.
One thing you might consider is using the "mold" capability in Cura Slicer (not sure if other slicers have this, though apparently some mesh modifiers can replicate the effect) to produce a 3D printed mold in which to *cast* parts from acrylic resin sold for either fiberglass application or casting. If you start with the correct resin type, the cured result will be nearly identical to PMMA, and you can make the mold on a common FDM printer.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-material, services
--- |
thread-15796 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15796 | Screen stays black on new Ender 3 V2 after power-on | 2021-03-04T22:52:14.840 | # Question
Title: Screen stays black on new Ender 3 V2 after power-on
I decided to finally purchase an Ender 3 v2. It arrived today and after a few hours of making sure everything is straight, I tried to power it and do a test print...
I was disappointed to see that the screen stays black after more than 10 seconds from power on.
I did not insert any SD card in the printer or anything that could interfere with the presumably stock firmware on it.
Because of this, I opened up the power source and the motherboard case and checked the voltages/checked LEDs. The motherboard blue led is on, the power source green led is on as well. I did a few measurements - I get 24 V to the motherboard with a small spike of 35 V when it starts.
The hotend fan is always on.
I checked the display connection and I am sure it is placed correctly.
I tried to upload firmware onto the mainboard first by clearing the SD card (8 GB given by Creality) using `diskpart`. I wrote the 4.2.2 (same as motherboard version) firmware version (stock) onto the SD attempting to upload on the mainboard. I tried renaming it, unplugging the power cable, unplugging the screen cable, etc and nothing would work.
I tried rewriting the `DWIN_SET` files but the screen would not turn to black/blue/orange colors. I tried more or less everything suggested here.
Is there anything I didn't do? What do you suggest? I already contacted the company where I bought it from, but I don't want to go through the assembly process twice - maybe I can make it work?
---
* The correct voltage for the power supply is set at 230 V (Europe) and was set to this all the time. I tried switching it back and forth without power too. No result.
* I've contacted the supplier yesterday.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I solved this by having Creality send me a new main board and new screen.
Sorry if you are experiencing this. Please contact Creality. They were happy to also upgrade my main board to v4.2.7!
# Answer
> 2 votes
I had the same issue. I think I flipped my display cable around and it worked. Maybe I got lucky and it was simply reseating the cable.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, firmware, maintenance
--- |
thread-16358 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16358 | How to create a 3D model as mold for a 4-legged animal with parallel legs | 2021-05-24T09:29:38.473 | # Question
Title: How to create a 3D model as mold for a 4-legged animal with parallel legs
I am new to 3D printing, and new to mold design.
I played around with a model from Windows Paint 3D library:
And I realized that it would not be easy to 3D print a mold out of this.
First of all I focused on the legs, and the fact that I cannot get the 4 legs by just splitting the negative shape into two mold parts.
Then I realized that maybe a zigzag cut could help, but it only work for legs when they are not parallel to each other, unlike the back legs.
And in fact, there is the same problem for the ears.
I'd like to point out that I want to mold paper pulp, so I cannot really do injection molding, which means I really need access to the entire figure from both parts of the mold.
It really seems like it is an impossible problem.
Are there tricks?
# Answer
In traditional mold making, this would require a "sectional" mold -- one that breaks into mutiple pieces to free the legs, rather than just two halves. Sometimes you can use a non-planar mold break line to avoid this issue; look at the molds made for casting miniatures that aren't neatly arranged to see examples, but as you note, with one rear leg alongside the other, the narrow space between isn't accessible with a rigid mold and a molded figure that can't be flexed.
One way around this would be to print the figure and make a flexible mold from it -- the mold wouldn't be printed, but would be molded from a positive figure. That would let you use a flexible mold material to run a join between the rear legs and still separate the mold, with a little care. You may also want to make the mold in layers, as would be done for denture making -- using a soft, highly flexible material such as the alginate used in denture making for direct contact with the original figure, and then reinforcing the very soft contact layer with a sturdier backup layer to provide support.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, molds
--- |
thread-3755 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3755 | TronXY Windows 10 driver | 2017-03-17T06:48:39.623 | # Question
Title: TronXY Windows 10 driver
I am about to purchase a TronXY X3 or P802; but, my PC is running Windows 10.
The spec sheet for the printers does not list anything above Windows 7. Is anyone using either of these printers with Windows 10?
# Answer
Since the printer supports using an SD card, you don't *need* to connect it directly to a PC. Serial over USB has been broken in the past in various Win10 builds, I've not tried it recently and I've not tried connecting my A8 to my PC recently either.
If you need to use USB, and can't make it work with Windows, there is always the option of using a Raspberry Pi single-board computer (which you can then connect to by VNC from your PC). Depending on the software you want to use, this might resolve any remaining issues you have.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Typically, (hobbyist level, FDM) 3D printers do not require dedicated drivers. They simply show up as a serial port (COMx), and you just need drivers for the USB-to-Serial chip used in the printer's electronics. This is usually an FTDI device, an AtMega32u or CH340. Drivers for those are readily available (and are usually even downloaded automatically through windows update).
The P802 appears to use a variant of the Melzi board, with an ATmega1284p (the less-powerful cousin of the 2560 found in most printers) as the main processor and it claims to have an (FTDI) FT232RL serial converter (I could not find any information on the X3). You should be aware of this, as there are many fake FTDI chips on the market, and FTDI has been known to "patch" their drivers to break the clones. However, this problem is not specific to Windows 10. You can pretty much count on any 3D printer that works in Windows 7 working in Windows 10.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Here's a tidbit that might be helpful to people.
* 3D Printer: Tronxy X1
* OS: Windows 10 (PC)
* SW: Repetier-Host v2.0.5
The TronXY X1 boots at 115200 baud (you can change it in Configuration, but each power on it will reset to 115200). In Repetier Printer Settings I set the baud rate to match at 115200. My PC automatically recognized the USB device as USB-SERIAL CH340(`COM5`).
But...
I had to go into my PC's Devices and Printers, right-click the USB-SERIAL icon, go into Properties-\>Hardware-\>Port Settings: change Bits per Second from 9600 to 115200.
All good now.
> 3 votes
# Answer
For Windows 10 driver, go directly to the Microsoft update catalogue. https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=USB%5CVID\_1A86%26PID\_7523
Download the .cab file, extract the contents. Using Device Manager update the driver for the partially installed device. After the update TronXY-2 now appears as a COM port.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, software, electronics, tronxy-x3, tronxy-p802
--- |
thread-14505 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14505 | What is SBS plastic | 2020-09-27T12:18:08.727 | # Question
Title: What is SBS plastic
I want to print a part from Thingiverse. In the description, the creater writes that he used SBS to print it. I did some research because I never heard of SBS. I found a description on Filaments.directory that describes it as:
> Poly(styrene-butadiene-styrene) is a hard, durable rubber that is commonly used for shoe soles, tires and other products that experience high wear.
But if I search for SBS filaments to buy, there only shows ABS up. Did I misunderstood something and SBS is the same as ABS.
# Answer
> 5 votes
As you found and according to this site, SBS is a Styryne-Butadiene polymer that only contains Styrene and Butadiene chains interlinked. This is similar to ABS, but not identical.
Some people have access to filament manufacturing machines or use pellet extruders, however, googling for "SBS" filament I was able to source at the moment two sites with information:
# Answer
> 4 votes
This response might be way late but no, SBS is not a typo. Here are the info:
> **SBS (styrene-butadiene-styrene)**
>
> Poly (styrene-butadiene-styrene) or SBS, is a hard rubber that's used to modify asphalt, to make soles of shoes, tire treads, and other places where durability is important. It's a type of copolymer called a block copolymer. Its backbone chain is made up of three segments. The first is a long chain of polystyrene, the middle is a long chain of polybutadiene, and the last segment is another long section of polystyrene.
>
> Polystyrene is a tough hard plastic, and this gives SBS its durability. Polybutadiene is rubbery, and this gives SBS its rubber-like properties. In addition, the polystyrene chains tend to clump together. When one styrene group of one SBS molecule joins one clump, and the other polystyrene chain of the same SBS molecule joins another clump, the different clumps become tied together with rubbery polybutadiene chains. This gives the material the ability to retain its shape after being stretched.
---
Tags: filament, plastic, sbs
--- |
thread-16355 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16355 | Printing material for methanol tank | 2021-05-24T06:10:46.580 | # Question
Title: Printing material for methanol tank
I am trying to print a tank to be used with my RC engine. The material that I have to use needs to have the following properties:
* It needs to be possible to seal the final print so that it is not leaking any fluid
* It needs to resist methanol, nitromethane (a solvent like Acetone) and lubricating oil at room temperature. It can get discolored or have other changes from the fuel, but it must not be able to compromise the sealing.
I first - foolishly - just printed it with ABS as I do for every fluid container as I can nicely seal it with Acetone. After almost being done with it a friend told me to check the chemical resistance of ABS and as you might guess methanol and nitromethane completely desintegrate it, almost like acetone itself, so that was a waste of time/material.
Next I considered using Nylon. It shows exactly the chemical resistance against all the fuel components I need, however I could not find any (easily available) option to seal the print after printing and after printing a small test container and pouring in some water it leaks after half a minute, so unless I find a way to seal the Nylon containers interior this is also not an option.
I checked various epoxies but the few that I checked all showed poor resistance against methanol/nitromethane.
What I could not test yet but seems like an option is using HDPE. I am using PET bottles to transport the fuel sometimes so it definitely is both resistant and - in theory - watertight, however I am not sure how I can seal an HDPE print, so I am not sure about my first requirement with HDPE. **EDIT**: I found that Limonene dissolves HDPE and is relatively harmless and easily obtainable. Maybe it can be used to seal the HDPE print surface?
Hence my question: Is there a material that can be printed on a regular desktop printer (heated bed, nozzle up to 255°C) that satisfies both my requirements above or am I "doomed" to buy a moulded plastic fuel tank?
# Answer
Most commercial blow-molded fuel tanks for model airplane fuel (methanol or ethanol, nitromethane or nitroethane, and some combination of castor, mineral, or synthetic lubricating oil) are made from HDPE. This material isn't commonly seen as filament, in my limited experience, but it ought to be possible to arrive at settings that will give a liquid tight tank without further sealing if you can find some. As you note, limonene might be used to smooth/seal HDPE prints, but likely won't be necessary if your settings are right.
You might want to test PETG filament for its resistance to your fuel mix(es) -- this material *is* available as filament, prints with settings little different from generic PLA (in my experience, higher nozzle and bed temperature, and a little more bed clearance for the first layer), with good layer adhesion and, with a good print, is liquid-tight as printed. It's not particularly flexible (as is the case with HDPE), but since you can customize the shape of your fuel tank, it may work for you -- or it may be more flexible in vase mode, as PLA is.
Sealing PETG may be as simple as baking it (similar to "heat treating" PLA to increase print strength, albeit again at a higher temperature) -- this partial remelting will ensure that layers are adhered throughout the print, which (presuming you have avoided under-extruded areas) should be all that's needed to make a printed tank liquid tight.
> 3 votes
# Answer
As a supplement to the answer (doesn't fit well in the comments). This site https://www.filamentive.com/chemical-resistance-of-3d-printing-filament/ lists PETG has have a very high restance to alcohol, a high resitance to fuel
> **Is PETG UV Resistant?**
> In the long run, it is now a well-known fact that it will almost always come out on top when it comes to objects and builds that have to be resistant to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. I.e., UV resistant. This is why it is ideal for objects that have to be kept under the harsh mid-summer sun. This is because UV radiation has minimal effect on it as compared to PLA and ABS. -- From https://makershop.co/petg-uv-resistance/
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-material, chemistry
--- |
thread-3596 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3596 | Printer homes to Z stop-switch, but presses on heat bed during printing | 2017-02-15T02:17:27.410 | # Question
Title: Printer homes to Z stop-switch, but presses on heat bed during printing
I have a Prusa i3 that homes properly when you use the menu. After adjusting the bed and homing several times, it keeps the head at a reliable distance. However, when I try to print from an SD card, the printer buries the hot end in the heat bed.
What needs to be adjusted to fix this issue?
G-code from one of the 2 files
```
M190 S50.000000
M109 S200.000000
;Sliced at: Mon 13-06-2016 15:39:25
;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.2 Walls: 1.2 Fill: 20
;Print time: 3 hours 47 minutes
;Filament used: 11.435m 34.0g
;Filament cost: None
;M190 S50 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S200 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F3000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F3000
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
;Layer count: 446
;LAYER:0
M107
;LAYER:1
M106 S127
G1 F2400 E-4.50000
G0 F3000 X81.474 Y58.603 Z0.300
;TYPE:WALL-INNER
G1 F2400 E0.00000
G1 F2220 X83.063 Y56.456 E0.06663
G1 X84.277 Y55.080 E0.11240
G1 X84.836 Y54.444 E0.13353
G1 X85.799 Y53.476 E0.16759
G1 X86.755 Y52.587 E0.20015
G1 X87.179 Y52.244 E0.21376
G1 X88.836 Y50.911 E0.26680
G1 X89.285 Y50.610 E0.28029
```
# Answer
The correlation between the endstop switch -- or sensor -- and the surface of the bed is not known *a priori* . In your case, there are two possibilities. I'd say the more likely is that your g-code generator is not setting the Z-height offset from the bed correctly. The other is that your bed is tilted, so proper Z-home at one corner does not match the entire bed.
Try this: first manually move the extruder head to all four corners and adjust the bed screws until the separation is identical at all times. Then let your gcode start up -- and don't worry if the extruder depresses the bed during homing, as that doesn't matter. See where the extruder is once the print starts. Adjust the endstop switch up or down to compensate until the print head **when printing** is just off the surface and the first layer adheres well.
If all that doesn't work, then you may have the wrong printer profile settings in your slicing softwqre.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You didn't share much details, which is problem with any question. But let me give some recommendations - I have Prusa i3 MK2 1.75mm.
The fact that it homes correctly does not at all mean that your Y axis is OK.
* Verify that PINDA probe's bottom end is **maximum** 1 millimeter above the extruder head.
* Double check that PINDA probe is correctly screwed and does not wiggle.
* Manually check that the printer does not allow you to toutch heatbed with extruder, follow these steps:
1. Wait for both heatbed and hot end to cool down.
2. Put paper sheet on heatbed
3. Go to Menu - Settings - Move Axis - Z Axis
4. Move the axis down. If hot end toutches and presses on the paper, the calibration is not OK at all.
* Updating your firmware can't hurt if you didn't do it already.
If this advice does not help you, please update the question to address the following questions:
* How does your G-code beginning work? Ideally, share some short G-code, I could easily check whether it is correct with my printer.
* Does XYZ calibration pass correctly in your printer?
* Take a picture of your extruder so that both PINDA and extruder are visible
> 1 votes
# Answer
I had the same issue: Z-axis correctly homing manually but not when printing.
What worked for me is disabling the following line in the Marlin configuration file:
```
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
```
> 0 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, calibration, z-axis
--- |
thread-16172 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16172 | Ender 3 V2 under extrusion problems | 2021-04-23T11:53:02.803 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 V2 under extrusion problems
Every time I start a print, midway during printing, my printer starts to under extrude.
I tried lots of different models every time the problem occurs.
What should I do about this?
# Answer
This is some kind of filament stuck in the hotend tube problem. Just like "heat creep" as mentioned above. PTFE pipes should be checked, all parts should be carefully cleaned. I also add checking the extruder (gears, tightness) to the list. The plastic extruder can structurally loosen or break over time. I switched to metal extruder a long time ago, but metal also breaks / loosens after a while. Finally I'm using a double gear extruder without any problem. And I replaced the stock pipes with more durable PTFE and "Pneumatic Fittings". **Pneumatic fittings** are also very important by the way.
> 2 votes
# Answer
If everything is stock on the machine and all other setting are properly configured, this is most likely heat creep. This is caused when the PFTE tubing is not properly set within the hot end itself leaving a small gap. As filament is fed into the hot end and heated to melting, some filament oozes out in the gap between the PFTE tubing and the nozzle. This melted filament then cools and hardens making it harder to extrude filament causing under extrusion.
You may want to calibrate your E-steps and flow as well, here is an excellent website.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I was getting intermittent underextrusion (to the point of brief "ghost printing") with my own Ender 3 over the past few days, after a couple weeks of exemplary operation. In looking the machine over (searching for issues that could cause clogging, for instance), I discovered that the "extruder arm" (the spring loaded arm on the extruder that carries the bearing and channel that presses the filament against the actual extruder wheel) was badly cracked; the crack ran from the brass insert where the screw holding the pressure bearing threads in, up to the hole for the screw the whole arm pivots on; it was near breaking off entirely.
I was able to find a .stl file for a replacement arm on Thingiverse (search for "ender 3 extruder arm"), and dismounted the broken arm and super glued it back together, hoping it would hold up long enough to print a replacement (I also contacted the Amazon seller about warranty service, since I've had the machine only three weeks and there's a 90 day warranty).
If this is the cause of your own failures, it will likely go from "intermittent underextrusion" to "doesn't work at all" without any further warning. Fortunately, that arm is made of a plastic that takes glue well (probably either polypropylene or ABS, as it appears to be injection molded); mine has held up for long enough to print a replacement, and (so far) through about eight hours of my next print in line (which is going perfectly).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, underextrusion, bowden
--- |
thread-16379 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16379 | Is it possible to run 2 Ender 3's off one power supply? | 2021-05-26T16:20:08.063 | # Question
Title: Is it possible to run 2 Ender 3's off one power supply?
I have 2 Ender 3's and I am limited to wall sockets to power both the printers at the same time. So I was wondering if it was possible to wire both the printers to a single PSU? As the printer uses a single xt60 connecter for power to the mainboard, so there is a spare screw terminal on the PUS where the xt60 for the other printer could be screwed in. I am just afraid if I run both printers off one PSU, I might see some magic smoke or else the psu may not be able to provide enough power for them both and may cause print/power failure.
# Answer
> 3 votes
The heated bed alone draws 220 W of 24 V power, so I'm going to say no, you shouldn't attempt to run two Ender 3 machines from a single power supply.
Instead, because the whole machine only draws about 3.5 A at 115 V (or half that at 230 V), you should consider installing a power strip or (better) a small UPS to both power both machines from your existing outlet(s) and also protect the machines from power surges and short power interruptions. You won't overload your outlets, and you won't risk burning out a power supply by drawing twice the power it's built to provide.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, creality, skr-v1.4
--- |
thread-8162 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8162 | Bed Heating Failed, Printer Halted, Please Reset | 2019-02-04T13:32:22.127 | # Question
Title: Bed Heating Failed, Printer Halted, Please Reset
A couple of weeks ago I have successfully built a 3D Printer and Printed an XYZ Calibration Cube with ABS material at bed temperature 80 °C.
Next Day I tried bed heating at bed temperature 80 °C,
> Screen is blank
and it's not heating at all and showing Following error.
> Bed Heating Failed Printer Halted Please Reset
### Specification board
I use a RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.X
### Troubleshooting
I searched on Google and tried possible solutions but they are not working.
1. I changed the thermistor and nothing happened, the old thermistor is also showing the same temperature.
2. I connected 12V Supply Positive to SMPS (Switched-Mode Power Supply) and Negative to RAMPS 1.4 and not working
3. I checked the Voltage at heat bed it's showing zero in spite connecting to SMPS
Please let me know how can I fix the problem?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Check that your heated bed is still working:
* Measure the resistance of your heated bed. It depends an the power rating of the bed, but 12V beds usually have values \<3 Ohms. That's hard to measure for cheap multimeters, but you just need to check that it's not MOhms which would indicate a broken heated bed.
* Your heated bed could also have a short. That's hard to measure, as \<3Ohms are already 'almost a short'. You'll only notice because your bed will not get warm, but the wires, connectors and elements on the RAMPS will get even hotter. Marlin should detect this and switch off after a few seconds.
* Check your thermistor. Seems you already did that.
* Check your RAMPS by measuring the voltage on the bed connector while setting the bed to heat up. You should see 12V, at least in the frist few seconds.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I've just been reading *3D Printing Failures: 2020 Edition* by Sean Arandy and David Feeney -- one of the things they really harp on is that the high current connectors on the RAMPS board for the bed heat are grossly under-rated -- that is, they're connectors rated for about 4-5 A, while the bed needs to draw about twice that to heat a rated power level. Their recommendation is to switch this connector on the RAMPS board for one rated at a minimum of 16 A to ensure it has a safety margin over the most current a 12V bed heater will draw.
If you use an e-reader, you may want to consider downloading this book -- it's only ten dollars for Kindle (also available on Kindle Unlimited), or twenty for a paper copy, and to my eye, it's worth having.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, diy-3d-printer, ramps-1.4, troubleshooting
--- |
thread-5840 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5840 | How to change E0 to E1 on Marlin 1.1? | 2018-04-19T15:13:05.347 | # Question
Title: How to change E0 to E1 on Marlin 1.1?
I have the same problem as this person but I don't have those lines in my `RAMPS.h` file.
I've recently burnt my potentiometer on E0 so the motor isn't working properly anymore. I want to use it on E1 instead. If you have any better idea how to fix this instead of changing code in firmware, feel free to share.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Another posting already discusses how you can change the pins to use spare stepper controllers for broken controllers by changing the pin layout. Assuming you are using a RAMPS board and using Marlin firmware, you should look at the pins\_RAMPS.h file.
This file requires changes to address E1 to E0 and vice versa, please edit the file so that:
```
#define E0_STEP_PIN 26
#define E0_DIR_PIN 28
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 24
#define E0_CS_PIN 42
```
is changed to:
```
#define E0_STEP_PIN 36
#define E0_DIR_PIN 34
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30
#define E0_CS_PIN 44
```
and also change:
```
#define E1_STEP_PIN 36
#define E1_DIR_PIN 34
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30
#define E1_CS_PIN 44
```
to:
```
#define E1_STEP_PIN 26
#define E1_DIR_PIN 28
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 24
#define E1_CS_PIN 42
```
When the file is changed an saved, build and upload code to your board and plug the connector of the E0 stepper into the E1 header.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I wanted to expand on the great comment by 0scar and explain what's the fastest way to change pins. I know this is an older topic, but for the sake of people looking for an answer, I figured I add this.
First of all it's easiest to change the pins in the pins file for your specific board by simply renaming E0 to E1 and vice versa. This is much simpler than copying and pasting the pin numbers per pin. Only do this when swapping entire driver pin lists as this gets quite confusing when switching around only certain pin numbers.
Second, and this is a big one: don't forget that when you use drivers that are capable of sensorless homing, and when you use that technique, you also have to change the \_DIAG\_PIN settings or else the sensorless homing won't work correctly.
# Answer
> 0 votes
the fastest way is to slice using two extruders and assign all print work to E1. Set the head offsets to \[0,0\] and that shall do the job.
The harder is to edit pins file and do remapping.
---
Tags: extruder, marlin, slic3r, tevo-tarantula
--- |
thread-16392 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16392 | Estimating filament consumption in length per time | 2021-05-27T12:10:55.947 | # Question
Title: Estimating filament consumption in length per time
I printed a lot of models in last month. I spent 2 kg filament in total. I want to know how many hours have been passed while printing. As far as I read, 1 kg PLA (1.75 mm) is about 110 meters long. My default print speed is 70 mm/s. The nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm. The nozzle multiplier in the simplify3d is 0.9 .
In a very basic math, 220÷(0.7×0.04÷0.0175×0.9)=~ 153 hours.
Is this correct?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your formula doesn't seem to take into account two important factors: layer height and average speed.
Do the math differently:
voumetric flow rate \[mm^3/s\] = layer height \[mm\] * line width \[mm\] * speed \[mm/s\]
For example, 0.2 * 0.45 * 70 = 6.3 mm^3/s
which is realistic, the extruder on the Ender 3 cannot go much faster than that reliably.
PLA weighs 1.24 g/cm^3 = 0.00124 g/mm^3
To extrude 1 kg you need 1000/(0.00124 * 6.3) = 35 hours (70 for 2 kg).
However the printer does not reach 70 mm except on straight long moves, the average speed may be lower or much lower depending on what you print.
If you print technical parts with straight edges, maybe you can multiply by 1.5 (50 hours/kg), but if you print models and small statues or similar you may need to double it (70 hours/kg).
I use Klipper as firmware and I have a macro which keeps track of printing time and filament length used.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Your math looks correct, and is also a good approximation for what I've seen in the first few weeks with my own Ender 3.
Another way to calculate (to check yourself) is to calculate the volume extruded (nozzle area times extrusion percentage times print speed -- be sure you convert everything to the same units!) in a given second, multiply by the density of your filament (common PLA runs about 1.2 g/cm^3), and get a rough figure for how long it takes to print a kilogram of filament. Your actual print time will always be higher than this approximation, because there are moves during which the extruder isn't running, infill is often set to lower extrusion level, and of course there's setup and cleanup time to account for.
---
Tags: filament, speed, estimation
--- |
thread-16396 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16396 | What ambient humidity should one target for filament storage? | 2021-05-27T23:33:41.123 | # Question
Title: What ambient humidity should one target for filament storage?
I live in an arid environment and have never worried about leaving filament out for an extended period of time. To reduce how frequently we receive static shocks I installed a whole house humidifier with a target humidity of 35 %. Is this enough humidity to warrant storing filament in a dry box? At what point does ambient humidity become a concern?
# Answer
The closer to zero humidity the better. Maybe a garage or some place protected from rare precipitation outside would be better. If one room is considerably less humid than the others, you could use it. Keep the bags and dry packs the filament comes in and put them back in when not in use.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament, storage
--- |
thread-10167 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10167 | High temperature flexible filament | 2019-06-03T19:56:05.643 | # Question
Title: High temperature flexible filament
I need to cool some liquid (250 °C) while it’s flowing through a tube which has to be able to bend and flex. My idea is to make a flexible tube with a second tube spiraling around it through which coolant will flow.
I’d like to 3D print this tube if possible so I wonder if there is some printable filament that:
* doesn’t melt at 250 °C
* is flexible enough that it can print some tube that can bend (bending radius of 30 cm)
* optimally also has good heat conductivity
Is there any 3D printer filament available that has these properties?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Ok, so to answer the primary question: What flexible filament will operate consistently at 250 °C?
Man, this is a tough one. Some filaments, like PEEK and ULTEM 1010 can operate up in the 200 °C range, but they're not flexible at all.
Silicon might be able to work, but you're still pushing boundaries.
Now, I'm lucky to be in a 3D printing company and we're testing a super-high-temp flexible material, very similar in temperatures to ULTEM. I'll definitely check back and let you know how it goes, but...
Honestly, that's so hot! Readily available thermoplastics may not be an option unless you're in aerospace with an unlimited budget which, based on the requirements, would make sense, lol!
I'd say the most readily available way to get this done would be 3D printing a mold, in which to put your silicone, and bam -- you've got the part.
# Answer
> -2 votes
3D printing nerd showed a couple of filaments that fits this in his latest video "Printers at RAPID + TCT 2019":
Firstly a Nylon 6 high temperature filament:
Another part of the video shows another flexible print, created on a four axis 3D printer, using TPU filament:
---
Tags: filament-choice, flexible
--- |
thread-16405 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16405 | What would cause magic smoke with a BLTouch installed? | 2021-05-30T01:59:01.657 | # Question
Title: What would cause magic smoke with a BLTouch installed?
I decided to purchase a BLTouch for my Ender 3 V2. I did all the physical installation of the BLTouch at the same time as adding LED lighting. I plugged in the power to test the lighting (BLTouch was not plugged in yet) and everything came on fine and the lights worked as expected. I plugged in the BLTouch, hot-glued it in place, and finished zip-tying and screwing in everything else back in place.
I connected power once again and powered on my printer. The fans came on, the new lights powered on, but the display didn't come on. I turned it off and back on, still no display. Then I smelled the distinct odor. I quickly powered off the printer and opened it up to look at the mainboard. I couldn't see any major scorch marks at first, so I decided to power it up again. That's when I saw the small spark and magic smoke at F2 in the picture below.
I feared the worst that I had fried my mainboard, but thought maybe it was the BLTouch. So, I unplugged the BLTouch and powered the printer on and miracle of miracles it powered on. All the fans, lights and display were on.
So something with the BLTouch is causing the short but I don't know what it is. YouTube videos that I watched for installation showed a different cable than the one that came with the BLTouch that I purchased. My BLTouch came with a 1 meter extension that is actually 2 sets of cables. One set is a pair of black and white wires that I deduced were for power. The other cable is a set of three wires colored orange, red, and brown. I zip-tied the two connectors together to make sure they stay together. On the BLTouch end, the orange and black wires are next to each other. The connector in the bottom picture is in the same orientation that I plugged it in.
Printer: Ender 3 V2
Mainboard: 4.2.2
BLTouch: Smart 3.1 from Amazon
Firmware: Jyers' Ender 3 V2 Extensible UI
# Answer
> 4 votes
Given F2's proximity to the linear 3.3V regulator and some inductor and large diode possibly belonging to a switching regulator, it is likely that some short circuit caused the fuse on a power rail to blow.
**According to wiring instructions and your picture (if you're holding the connector as it was plugged in, you had it reversed:**
> Black to the G pins
>
> > NOTE: Sometimes blue or brown are used for ground wires
>
> Red to the V pin
>
> Yellow/Orange to the IN pin
>
> White to the OUT pin
If that is the case and the protection was well designed, swapping the cable and replacing the blown fuse should repair the fault unless it also damaged to probe.
As for identifying the fuse value for F2 (T20), different manufacturers, due to the size limitations of SMD components, unfortunately use different markings, but the T would indicate either 0.5 or 5.0A. It might be best to ask support about the value for the fuse as the manufacturer would surely know.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, bltouch, jyers
--- |
thread-6088 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6088 | Z-Axis zero/home position is higher than the actual print starting position | 2018-06-04T13:14:29.050 | # Question
Title: Z-Axis zero/home position is higher than the actual print starting position
I'm having an issue with my very first printer, a Monoprice Select Mini V2. After doing about 20 successful prints on it, the Z axis is suddenly acting very odd.
When I 'home' the Z axis and move the nozzle on the X and Y, I can do the paper test on all four corners of the bed without issue - the leveling is near-perfect. But when I start a print job, the nozzle is much lower - by at least 1-2 mm.
This causes the print head to grind against the print bed, which I unfortunately need to replace as it's pretty much destroyed. The nozzle is so much lower at the start of a print job than it is at the home position that it ground a permanent line on the bed. It's trying to go so low, there's enough pressure on the nozzle to not let any filament escape - leaving a bad gouge like I dragged a screwdriver across the print surface. Not good.
It's not the Z-axis limiter switch. I confirmed that is both working and secured tightly to the printer body. When homing the Z axis, I can hear the switch click and the printer stops at that position correctly. It's only when I start a print job that it ends up lower, almost as if it's ignoring the switch.
I also eliminated my slicer software from the equation by printing something I had printed successfully just a couple hours prior - without reslicing or modifying the GCODE file at all. I'm at the point now where I can't print anything that I could before, without having this problem. My heat and speed settings remained untouched.
How can I solve this? The issue popped up just after doing a successful print. What gives? I've heard of the opposite problem (Z-Axis 'too high'), especially after changing nozzles, but not 'too low', and I've never seen it where the print job actually starts lower than the true zero position. Help!
# Answer
> 3 votes
Check the Z-drive for any component looseness. Look at belts, gears, anything with screws. Wiggle things mercilessly checking for play.
At the start of a normal print run, the the print head typically rises up very high as the head warms up (depends on software) and then lowers to print. If your homing paper test happened with the head near the limit switch, then the difference between those two use cases is the Z-distance traveled to get to the same place. You have eliminated software and electrical considerations, which leaves mechanical considerations. A slipping gear or belt might contribute to this odd behavior you describe.
# Answer
> 2 votes
This ended up being a combination of print bed height and an unknown slicer profile parameter (probably the first layer height setting).
I completely uninstalled Cura, wiped out my profiles and downloading the ones from Monoprice, installed an older version of Cura and loaded them in. I also issued an `M502` and `M500` command to reset the EEPROM/firmware.
That seemed to have a tiny bit of improvement, but my first layer was still maybe 0.5 mm low (it was no longer grinding against the bed but was still creating a 'canal' with the plastic). I then did a tiny adjustment on each bed screw to lower it on the Z axis, just barely turning the screws, as evenly as I could.
An initial print after doing that seems to be going well. I may have to do one more teeny tiny adjustment to the bed height again. So it was probably a combination of slicer settings and bed height, the latter I probably made worse when initially trying to solve the problem. Lesson learned...kinda. I still need a new print bed!
# Answer
> 1 votes
I just had this issue with my Monoprice Select Mini V2. It seems there's some bug in the software if you already have the 3D printer at its lowest Z-elevation before starting the home calibration. To make sure it prints correctly, move the head up using the manual controls, then hit home. It should then go to the correct default location. I then adjusted my print height to that default home location and it seems to be working again.
Hope this helps other people still having difficultly with this is
---
Tags: z-axis, bed-leveling, monoprice-select-mini
--- |
thread-11270 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11270 | ABS prints consistently splitting in the same place | 2019-10-31T08:38:27.627 | # Question
Title: ABS prints consistently splitting in the same place
I am printing ABS in an enclosure and most of the prints have worked out well with minor tweaking. However, the top layer always seems to split or skip a step (not sure which).
The cube is sliced in Ultimaker Cura 4.3.0 with 0.2 mm layer height, 0.4 mm nozzle, 80 °C bed on lexan and a 235 °C hotend.
The G-code to the calibration cube/chep's calibration cube is attached: `PI3XL_CHEPCalibrationCube.gcode`.
While I'm on the subject of slicing and calibration my calibration angle is coming out as before in Simplify3D, this time the layers look great but the onion skinning within the print itself so I could actually separate the calibration angle like an onion.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Personally, I have dealt with this problem myself! I messed around with the slicer a little bit, and I found that if you make the print layer height 0.15 or 0.10 mm, it will be better. The image you attached looks as though the printer was splitting a step and only printing that part. I can't think of a reason why it would do that. I also can't find anything online, so I would just play with the print settings or change the layer height until it comes out how you want it.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Since it happens in the same place each time, it's either G-code or mechanical. I've seen things like this happen with dirty gantries, or a dirty Z-axis guide.
If it's not mechanical, there may be something in the G-code that causes it, such as too many retractions in one area, or similar.
---
Tags: print-quality, filament, ultimaker-cura, octoprint, layer-height
--- |
thread-13591 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13591 | Adventurer 3 3D Printer doesn't extrude correctly | 2020-05-04T16:35:55.197 | # Question
Title: Adventurer 3 3D Printer doesn't extrude correctly
I am new to 3D printing which we all are/were at some point. I have **no** clue how to address the issue which likely is reason why I haven't found the solution yet. So if you see that this question has been posted elsewhere, please link it! Thanks!
I have had this issue for a while, however right now, one minute ago, it worked kind of. The text below is a description of the problem that very often occurs!
So the issue is basically the extruder. I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3. In it's software you have a *"Load"* and *"Change"* option which you change and load filament with. When I load filament it goes through the tube but it never exits the extruder. The common answer is that the nozzle is clogged. I have honestly checked this, it isn't the problem. I have cleaned it as Flashforge says and I have also been using really small metallic pins to push out **all** the filament. So that isn't the issue.
Sometimes the filament also gets stuck inside the tube. Or the Bowden tube I think it is called.
I did a test 10 minutes ago, it went through the tube smoothly. No filament came out at the other end however. I then changed the filament, which means I pulled it back. I then saw that a part of the filament had gotten stuck at the end of the tube. It didn't pull all the filament back, a very small bit of the filament had somehow gotten stuck?
As it doesn't extrude filament when I load the filament it has nothing with the calibration to do what I know. So my own conclusion would be that something between the tube and extruder is going crazy. And I know, that isn't a good conclusion. However I don't know how to address it as I said before.
I know that it's hard to troubleshoot a text, so I will upload a video for you guys reading this. I really just want my 3D printer working again as the company said it probably isn't anything wrong with the machine..
When the machine starts working again it prints, but not good. Here is a video of how hit prints a big "F". Link. Sometimes it stops extruding filament for a while then it starts to extrude again..
There is also an image of the print below!\[
The machine is printing at 195 °C! I appreciate all the help I can get, I just want my machine fully working again.
---
Here is a video of the Bowden tube: Link
Here is a video of the extruder issue: Link
Here are two videos regarding the cold pull, I "try" to speak English so you get more information this time! Link Link 2
# Answer
There are a number of different ways to narrow down the problem.
Your printing temperature is likely too low. Raise it up about ten degrees, but don't try a print just yet.
Ensure that the Bowden tube is firmly pressed into the hot end assembly. A gap below the tube is asking for future problems. If the tube is clear, remove it and examine for a squarely cut end and re-insert firmly.
I'm not familiar with the specifics of your model, but you should be able to disengage the Bowden tube from the extruder motor and manually push filament through the hot end and out the nozzle. For obvious reasons, raise the carriage above the bed before doing this.
Start with the 205 °C temperature and heat the nozzle. When it reaches stable temperature, push filament through. If it moves smoothly and extrudes cleanly, you're more than half-way home. If not, raise the temperature by another five degrees. At some point, you'll have a good idea of the temperature to use for that brand and color of filament.
Once you've checked those two items, you may have it solved, or you can edit your question to address any new developments.
Once you have the temperature determined, note that it may have to be increased to match a higher print speed. It is easy enough to push filament manually at the equivalent of a slow print, which allows the hot end to transfer the heat at a sufficient rate.
When printing normal speeds, if it can't move the heat fast enough, you have to raise the temperature or lower the speed. The former is preferable, of course. Who wants a print that takes two or three times longer?
EDIT: more info added
You may have more than one problem. I think your next step is to focus on the hot end/nozzle area. With the Bowden tube removed, insert a length of filament and raise the temperature to around 200 °C and push the filament downward.
You probably won't have filament passing through the nozzle, based on the limited information in the video. Once you've confirmed that, reduce the temperature in the nozzle to about 125 °C, let it hold there for a bit. You should note that the additional filament has now fused with that in the heat sink/heat break area. Increase the temperature again to 200 °C and apply gentle upwards pressure.
This is not a typical cold-pull process, but close to it. If you had nylon filament available, I'd recommend to use the nylon cleaning method.
I suspect that your hot end is clogged at the point where the bowden tube should have been flush into the bore.
I did not see both ends free on your Bowden tube. Your second problem may be related to that aspect. Consider to manually feed filament through the tube (after first clearing it) and if that doesn't work, the bowden tube is internally damaged.
The additional videos are helpful. Two items come to mind. The temperature may be too low at 200°C. You can't hurt things by going a bit too high, even as high as 225°C or 230°C but don't make big jumps to get there. Bring the temperature up to 210°C and see if you can force filament smoothly through the nozzle by hand. Keep on this practice until you find a good temperature.
For the second item, it's possible that your e-steps need to be checked. Feed filament through the bowden tube with the tube removed from the nozzle assembly. Feed a few centimeters beyond the end and make a mark where the filament is at the edge of the tube.
Using a terminal program or your printer control software, command a 100 millimeter filament feed. When it is completed, mark the filament and determine if you have extruded the correct amount.
The second part of the second video certainly presents well the frustration you are experiencing. Many of the people in the 3D printing community have had similar frustrations.
For the lock-up portion, check the manufacturer's web site for firmware upgrades, as sometimes there will be a correction to a problem such as yours.
> 1 votes
# Answer
So there could be multiple solutions to your problem. One of them being as mentioned in another answer that you aren't printing hot enough. Double-check the filament that you got, there should be a temp rating either on the spool or the description of the product.
Another solution is if it is hot enough but it's not going through, take the tube out and hit the extrude button (It should be the button you hit when you resupply the filament and if it doesn't come out of the end there, you will need a new tube to feed it.
If that isn't the case either and you are double-checking to make sure it is hot enough and that it's not getting caught in the tube (you could double-check the temp of the nozzle with a digital thermometer just to be extra safe) check out your hot end to make sure that nothing is snagging. So, take off your tube and nozzle and look through it to see if you see anything sticking out or anything like that, there shouldn't be though.
Also, for a future issue that might happen is that you get it extruding and everything, you are going to want to take out your tube from the hot end, extrude enough filament so it's sticking out a little bit, trim that, then you are going to tell your printer to extrude 100 mm, then trim that again, and you are going to want to measure what you just trimmed. Then you are going to take that number (let's say x) and plug it into this equation: (old rate)\*(100/x) where old rate the rate that it was extruding out the filament before. How to calibrate your extruder
> 1 votes
---
Tags: extruder, bowden, flashforge
--- |
thread-16047 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16047 | Why are so many bed surfaces black? Would white help? | 2021-04-07T17:49:29.140 | # Question
Title: Why are so many bed surfaces black? Would white help?
It occurred to me after recalling cooling problems in the layers near the bed that many popular build surfaces (e.g. BuildTak clones) are black, which should radiate the most heat - onto the part being printed, which is generally undesirable. Is there a reason for this? Are there (white) build surfaces designed to minimize radiation of heat that might help avoid cooling problems in the initial layers?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I believe that the color is just a design choice, and doesn't have that big of an effect on the print itself. Changing the color wouldn't have an effect on the print itself. If you are looking for a solution to minimize radiation of heat going up to the build, you could either lower the heat of the bed, or you could go into the advanced print settings and change the bed temp after the first couple layers.
---
Tags: heated-bed, build-plate
--- |
thread-16223 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16223 | 3D Print D&D Miniatures delicate supports | 2021-04-30T18:05:29.097 | # Question
Title: 3D Print D&D Miniatures delicate supports
Any hints or suggestions (filament type? suggested settings? model sources?) for 3D printing minis to use in Dungeons & Dragons?
I've done a couple where the support structures were difficult to break off without breaking off a hand or something.
I have a Lulzbot Mini (1), single-extruder if that makes any difference.
# Answer
> 1 votes
There are adequate demonstration videos on YouTube showing that it is possible to print very acceptable 28 mm scale miniatures with FDM printers, easily rivaling the quality of resin printers from only a few years ago.
There are a couple of key requirements to get optimum quality for small, highly detailed parts (like miniatures): the smallest practical nozzle (0.2 mm seems to be elected), the smallest practical layer height (for 0.2 mm nozzle, this seems to be 0.1 mm), and optimal temperature and cooling. Supports, if needed, can be optimized for layer skip, interface, and traditional or tree style. It may take several test prints to find the best combination, but once found this should remain fairly constant for a given printer and filament choice.
The final ingredient, of course, is patience -- small nozzle, fine layer height, possibly reduced print speed required for those, mean these prints will take longer than you'd think for the size of the final object -- but if you get the settings right, and are willing to wait, you can get good miniatures with FDM.
For filament choice, I'd suggest PLA, generally -- it's very tolerant stuff, except for temperature, and you aren't likely to leave your minis on the dash of your car in the sun anyway.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Buckle up, this is going to be rough:
FDM printers are not the best choice for printing figurines in the 25 to 40 mm scale that is typical for wargaming and D&D games. Resolution-wise, that's the area of *resin* printers.
But there are ways to get some partially decent prints made:
* you might want a small nozzle. 0.2 is about the smallest you can do without specialty extruders, so there is our lower limit.
* You need to make sure to have a minimum layer time set, especially as the crosssections of figures are often rather slim.
* Overhangs can be a pain
You might be better-served printing "meeples" than actual figurines.
---
Tags: support-structures, filament-choice, quality
--- |
thread-15136 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15136 | Will 3D printing work upside down or in zero gravity? | 2020-12-29T03:21:49.187 | # Question
Title: Will 3D printing work upside down or in zero gravity?
I assume SLA printing only works on Earth and upright.
But would fused-filament printer (e.g. Prusa Mk3) work in zero gravity? What about upside down or sideways? If not, could it be modified to work in other orientations? Have there been any demonstrations of it?
# Answer
I think it's safe to say that there's at least one model of 3D printer that works in microgravity -- since one was sent to the International Space Station a few months ago. I presume the one there is an FDM type, as those need not be dependent on gravity; my Ender 3, for instance, has positive drive both ways on all three axes, so as long as the filament source is kept captive, the printer ought to work the same as it would on Earth.
Beyond that, there is the Quinly setup, in which a common FDM printer like the Ender 3 is set up at about a 45 degree angle, using a polymer coated glass bed, to allow network printing part after part (the printer pushes the parts off the cooled bed with the X gantry and hot end housing before preheating for the next print). Similar methods are used to print at a significant angle on a flat build surface for conveyor bed printers that can both print very long parts, and print sequences of parts one after the other (the belt carries the parts to the turn-around, then the flex pops them off).
The operation of common FDM printers depends on mechanical grip of the filament, screw or toothed belt drive of the axes, and adhesion of the first layer to the build surface and of subsequent layers to those already laid down --- this ought to work even upside down, against gravity, at least until the weight of the part starts to compete with its adhesion strength.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Yes!
3D Printing upside would only potentially have an issue with the first layer if you're using an extremely large gap on the first layer, however in normal circumstances there's enough pressure that the filament is squished into the bed, if you've got one yourself you can put it on it's side, the question when it comes to 3D Printing *isn't* upside down, but not the correct way, as it's presuming that gravity pushing down is the important thing, while in every other orientation it also works.
In theory SLA printing would work just fine, as long as you're able to seal the build plate and vat together so no resin leaks out.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Barrel's answer is absolutely correct, *provided the printer doesn't have gratuitous dependencies on gravity*. For example, a lot of high-end CoreXY designs I've seen, with 3 Z motors for automatic true leveling, rely on gravity to move/hold the bed in the -Z direction and only drive the +Z direction. This is often done for the purpose of decoupling from error in lead screws/ball screws, as in the HevORT ZR V2. Such machines can't print in alternate orientations or zero/low gravity. However, they can be adapted to drive the Z in both directions.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Lulzbot used to do this at trade shows -- printers on their side, printing all day long.
So long as it sticks to the bed, and sticks to the subsequent layers of the part, it works.
The determining factor is gravity -- if the part being printed has overhangs or unsupported areas, the extruded material would fall back at the extruder, instead of down onto the part. You may get around this with dual extrusion supports, but if there's any layer separation, it would probably fail quickly, lol.
Zero gravity? Easier than upside down with gravity, I'd think!
> 0 votes
# Answer
SLA printing wouldn't just work on earth, it just needs some sort of gravitational pull just to keep the liquid down. On the other hand, "normal" 3D printing in theory could print upside down, sideways or in 0 gravity because the process that takes to print is it squishes melted filament down onto other filament that has been melted and cooled or the print bed, the only constraint with doing that is making sure that making sure that the print doesn't slip or fall
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, extrusion, fdm
--- |
thread-16416 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16416 | My Anet E12 USB keep disconect but still able to print from SD | 2021-06-01T06:33:36.170 | # Question
Title: My Anet E12 USB keep disconect but still able to print from SD
The problem with my Anet E12 should be on USB connection itself.
1. If powered down, the board still gets power from USB
2. If board is resett, USB will still connect
3. Still works on SD; seem like most part not damage. What cause the problem? Where to check first? How to fix it?
Note: This printer worked with no problem before.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Sounds like a power saver issue. Make sure things like your USB ports, hard drive, or anything you need the printer program to access doesn't turn off in power save.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Ok I found the problem. these shameful for me but I decide to share it anyway. I live in apartment that didn't have earth ground in receptacle. Small electrical shock reallly bother me. althought it also destroy some sensitive component mosfet. (current flow through capacitor in switch mode power supply) Then one day I decide to get rid of these. I hammer ground rod and wire it to some receptacle. these when the whole problem start. The print shockme many time so I decide to give it a ground but I have no problem with PC so.. I don't give ground to PC. When these thing connected seem like there are some ground potential diffence. that current flow via ground (shield of USB cable) make PC uncomfartable and disconnect usb device. luckily pc not broken. I give ground to both device and evrything work fine in harmony again.
---
Tags: usb
--- |
thread-16424 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16424 | Ender 3 V2 really bad layer shifting | 2021-06-02T01:14:54.907 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 V2 really bad layer shifting
I currently have the V4.2.2 motherboard and it is producing some very poor prints on the X- and Y-axis. I have tried many quick fixes to no avail. Every print out of the box more than a few cm tall has these major defects. Belts are sufficiently tight, the bed is level, the printer is on a flat sturdy table, and I still have this issue. Thanks for your help
# Answer
Layer shifting can be caused by a number of different things. The following list of solutions is from All3DP's article "Troubleshooting Common 3D Printing Problems" under the heading *Print Offset in Some Places*:
> **CHECK THE PRINTER HAS A STABLE BASE**
> Place the printer on a stable base and in a location where it will avoid being knocked, poked and generally fiddled with. Even a small nudge of the printer can shift the print base and cause issues.
> **CHECK THE PRINT BED IS SECURE**
> Many 3D printers use some form of detachable print bed. Although this is handy when it comes to removing prints and avoids damage to the printer, it also means that over time clips and screws can work loose. Make sure that when you reinstall the print platform it’s clipped or bolted tightly in place to avoid any slip or movement.
> **WATCH FOR WARPED UPPER LAYERS**
> A print’s upper layers can easily warp if cooled too quickly. As the layers warp they rise and can cause an obstruction to the nozzle as it moves. In most cases the print will release from the platform, but if it doesn’t the powerful stepper motors can push the print and platform around. If your prints are suffering from warping in the upper layers try reducing the speed of the fans slightly.
> **REDUCE PRINT SPEED**
> It is possible to speed up the print times for your machine by increasing temperature and flow. However whilst this may result in the filament flowing in the correct quality the rest of the machine may struggle to keep up. If you hear a clicking during printing this could be a sign that the printer is going to fast. If you do hear a click the first port of call is to check that the filament isn’t slipping, before you take a look at the actual printer speed. You can adjust your printer’s speed easily enough in any good slicing software.
> **CHECK THE BELTS**
> If layers are still shifting then it’s time to check the belts. A quick check is to just go around all belts and pinch the two together. The tension in each belt should be the same, if not then you’ll need to adjust the belt position to even out the belt tension. Over time the rubber belts will stretch (You can often tell if they do as they’ll start to slip on the drive pulleys), if there is quite a bit of play in the belts then it’s time to replace them with new ones. Over tight belts can also be an issue but this is usually only a problem if you’ve built the machine yourself. Some printers such as the Prusa i3 have belt tensioning screws that enable you to easily adjust the belt tensions.
> **CHECK THE DRIVE COUPLERS**
> These are usually connected directly to a stepper motor, and one of the main rods that drives the print head. If you carefully rotate the coupler you’ll see a small grub screw. Hold onto the rod and taking hold of the attached belt and then tug the belt and try to force the pulley to turn. You should find that there is no slip between the coupler and stepper or rod. If there is, tighten the grub screw and try again.
> **CLEAN AND OIL THE RODS**
> Over time debris can build up on the rods which means that at some points along their length they encounter an increase in friction. This can affect the free movement of the head and cause layer shifting. A quick wipe and re-oil of the rods usually solves the issue.
> **CHECK FOR DEFORMED RODS**
> If you see the print head falter at certain points then it could be that one of the rods has become slightly bent. You can usually tell by switching off the machine so there’s no power going through the steppers and then move the print head through the X- and Y- axes. If you feel resistance then you know something is amiss. Start by seeing if the rods are aligned, if they are then remove the rods and roll them on a flat surface. If any are bent then it will be quite obvious.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, layer-shifting
--- |
thread-16418 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16418 | Weird pattern on vertical surfaces on all prints | 2021-06-01T16:00:35.677 | # Question
Title: Weird pattern on vertical surfaces on all prints
I recently received my Creality CR-6 SE printer and upgraded the controller board to a Bigtreetech SKR CR6 V1.0 and installed the latest community firmware.
As you can see on the attached image, the corners have this weird elephant foot thing going on the vertical surfaces.
Then there is that zig-zag pattern across the flat surfaces on the sides, makes me think the cubic infill pattern is shining through the sides. I am using Cura 4.8.0 with a modified start G-code to put a purge line on the side before print to prevent drooping in the middle of the bed while probing for the `Z0`.
What causes these issues? I have not tweaked anything regarding the extruder aside from adjusting the screws that clamp the filament as the stock setting broke the filament when retracting because it clamped on too hard.
---
I have not changed the E-Steps, on the stock firmware this wasn't even possible.
I use Raise3d Premium PLA filament, I have tried a few and I'm most comfortable with this filament.
If this is over extrusion, I can totally work with that. I have done E-step calibration before on my Ender3. I will test for that after the current print is done.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Seeing the infill from the outside is usually caused by having a thin wall or an incorrect wall thickness compared to your nozzle. Wall thickness should be a multiple of your nozzle diameter; so a .4 mm nozzle should have 0.4, 0.8, 1.2 mm thicknesses.
The following list of solutions is from All3DP's article "Troubleshooting Common 3D Printing Problems" under the heading *Infill is Visible from the Outside*:
> **CHECK THE SHELL THICKNESS**
> Make sure that the value you have selected for the shell thickness is a multiple of the nozzle size.
> **INCREASE THE SHELL THICKNESS**
> The easiest solution is to increase the shell thickness. By doubling the size it should cover any overlap caused by the infill.
> **USE INFILL AFTER PERIMETERS**
> Most slicing software will enable you to activate Infill prints after perimeters.
>
> * In Cura open up the ‘Expert Settings’ and under the Infill section tick the box next to ‘Infill prints after perimeters’
> * In Simply3D Click ‘Edit Process Settings’ then select ‘Layer’ and under ‘Layer Settings’ select ‘Outside-in’ next to the ‘Outline Direction’.
> **CHECK PRINT PLATFORM**
> Check around the model and if you see that the effect is more prevalent on one side than the other, the effect could be due to calibration. If so run through the usual calibration process.
> **PRINT SHELLS TO YOUR ADVANTAGE**
> Depending on the type of model that you’re printing you can use the internal and shell printing order to your advantage. When you want a high-quality print with a good surface finish where the actual strength of the model isn’t important, select print from the Outside-in. If however the strength of the print is paramount then select Print from in Inside-Out and double the wall thickness.
>
> The reason for the difference in strength is that when you print from the Outside-in you eliminate the small amount of overlap that causes the ghosting issue, but this also means that the actual structure won’t create the same strength of bond between the internal and external structure due to the lack of overlap.
---
Tags: print-quality, bigtreetech, creality-cr-6, skr-cr6
--- |
thread-16345 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16345 | Does shimming my build surface compete with spending a bunch more money and time on an auto-leveling system? | 2021-05-22T22:53:43.177 | # Question
Title: Does shimming my build surface compete with spending a bunch more money and time on an auto-leveling system?
I've had my Ender 3 for almost three weeks, gone through about a kilogram of PLA filament (printing a mix of upgrade parts for the Ender 3 and stuff I actually want to use) and made one PETG object, generally with good results.
I've noticed however, as seems relatively common (per YouTubers, anyway), that my bed isn't *flat* -- that is, the build surface isn't a good approximation of a geometric plane. If I adjust the bed to have correct clearance (good adhesion and correct single-line width) at the corners, I'll get adhesion failure in the center, and if I adjust to give a correct center, the extruded filament will be squished into the build surface texture; the nozzle may even lightly scatch the surface at the corners. That indicates the corners are high, relative to the center, by roundly 0.1 to 0.15 mm.
I'm aware of BLTouch and its clones, but in order to get full use of that system (which automatically compensates for the non-planar bed) I would need to not only install the surface sensing hardware, but flash my printer's firmware (potentially after removing the control module cover and plugging a cable and adapter into the mainboard). As a longtime builder/upgrader of my own computers, this is certainly within my capability, but I'd prefer to make my build surface flat instead of applying software corrections; I see this as upgrading from a 386 to a Core i3 because the computer is overheating -- that is, the problem will go away because of all the other stuff you have to do, but you haven't really *solved the problem*.
My general idea more or less mimics the self-answer on this question in terms of measuring the excursion and applying shims under the build surface (I've installed the Creality magnetic sheet surface, so shims would be applied between the magnetic base sheet and the removable build surface). I plan to use household aluminum foil, standard weight, which is generally close to 0.63 mil (= .016 mm), applied with repositionable spray adhesive and laid down in layers, using a combination of feeler gages and single-layer test prints to determine where and how much foil to apply.
I've "test flown" this option by putting a single Post-It sheet under the center of the removable build surface, and now I have a much closer match between the center and corners, and can (depending on my nozzle standoff) actually see the outline of the makeshift shim in the first layer where it prints over the edges of the Post-It.
Is there anything I'm missing that would prevent this shimming method using aluminum foil from resolving the warped bed to allow me to depend on an even thickness and correctly adhered first layer?
# Answer
I may be biased as my question/answer is the one I believe you're asking this question in reference to, but I would say that yes, it not only competes but is a far better solution. "Auto-leveling" systems **do not level** your bed. They just partially compensate for poor adhesion by adjusting the bottom layer(s) of your print to conform to the bed's errors. This of course messes up the dimensional accuracy of your prints; in a worst case it can come out rather absurd. They also do not compensate for the change in volume (which would require differing extrusion amounts) due to changes in Z height to compensate for the non-level bed.
The right solution is always to get your bed level and flat. Ideally if the bed/print surface is warped, you replace it with one that's not, but shimming is a reasonable alternative. ABL systems (not talking about real 3-point leveling with 3 Z motors here, but "ABL" stuff like BLTouch) are a gimmick for making it easy for beginners to start printing without all their prints failing due to non-adhesion from poor manual leveling. They're not a solution.
> 2 votes
# Answer
So, the difference between the shimming vs. auto-leveling is that auto-leveling goes around in a 4x4 grid taking measurements of the bed (you do need to set the Z calibration first, as you know) vs. the shimming method where you go to 4 corners on your build plate where you stick a piece of paper or something under there and you adjust the knob at the bottom until you can feel tension on it. What I've found to be the best for me at least is to use both. This is my method for printing every time:
1. Clean the build plate. I will take my scrapper and scrape everything off, then I will run it under some hot water and wipe all of the residue off that is still remaining, then I might take some glass cleaner or something and wipe it down.
2. Set the Z calibration.
3. Do the shimming leveling (I would normally go through all of the corners again plus the center/Z calibration just to make sure that I didn't mess up any of the other corners.
4. I will run the auto-calibration (I use OctoPrint so I just run it through there)
5. Smear Elmer's glue over the print bed. I do this for a couple of reasons:
1. I use the glass side of the bed, just because I've gotten better results this way, and
2. it just makes your prints stick better. I also do this after the Z calibration and bed calibration because you get better results this way.
6. Start the print and watch the first couple of layers. If you notice that when you are printing and the brim looks stringy, like you could pick apart the individual lines, you should cancel the print, and go back to your slicer and bring your line width down my 0.1 mm, I typical print with the lines 0.1 mm or 0.2 mm below what the nozzle prints at, so a 0.5 mm nozzle I will print at 0.4 mm. And if your print messes up here I'd scrape everything off so the filament and the glue off (I'd keep the bed hot and the tip hot just so I don't have to wait 10 min. for it to heat up again) then apply more glue and reprint.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling
--- |
thread-16430 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16430 | How do I fix mini-blobs on the edge of a part? | 2021-06-02T20:51:47.847 | # Question
Title: How do I fix mini-blobs on the edge of a part?
I am using an Ender 3 with a Micro Swiss hotend and a 0.8 mm nozzle, Polylite PETG filament and a masking tape covered glass bed. I have used Cura for slicing with settings:
* Layer height: 0.32 mm
* Wall line count: 2
* Printing temp initial: 255 °C
* Printing temp after first layer: 245 °C
* Bed temp: 80 °C
* 1 brim
* Print speed: 40 mm/s (10 mm/s for initial layer)
* 2.3 mm retraction at 20 mm/s
* Fan speed: 0 % for first layer, 40 % after
It is also interesting that the problem did not occur on half of the part, but did occur on the other half. Is the problem due to the slight warping up of the part, or due to something else? How can I fix it?
# Answer
What you are seeing is what is called the 'seam'. Since this part cannot be printed in vase mode (where the extrusion is essentially done as a compressed spiral), there is a point where the printing on a layer ends, and the printer moves to the next layer. This is where the seam is formed. Blobs that form at this change in layers are not uncommon, but the ones in your print seems larger than expected.
You can experiment with larger retractions settings which normal reduce the size, but these seams cannot be avoided completely.
Another change is that most slicers have the option to place the seam at different locations on your part, including placing them at random locations. This removes the pronounced seam, but put little blobs all over your print. Sometimes that is preferred for accuracy instead of the specific seam.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, petg, retraction
--- |
thread-16433 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16433 | Gantry crashing into bed after print | 2021-06-03T16:29:58.393 | # Question
Title: Gantry crashing into bed after print
I've upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to the point where I'm causing myself problems, one of them specifically is this:
My z axis drops down to the bed because of all the stuff hanging off it (added a bltouch probe, cable chain) whenever it is idle, example video of what I am talking about. When it first started happening I bought an Anti backlash leadscrew nut and installed that and it helped A BIT. The gantry wouldn't drop as often or as far.
But it still happens. I've thought about possibly adding a dual z axis motor and leadscrew anyway (with additional anti-backlash nut), and I wonder if that'll help because the gantry would have to overcome the friction on both sides..... but in the meantime I want to solve a very specific problem it causes: I just printed a benchy and right after the print was done (when I wasn't paying attention and before I noticed) the nozzle crashed right down into the print. It must have still been a little hot because it melted right into it. Not far enough to ruin it but I could see this causing an issue if it was something besides the Benchy.
Is there code I can run at the end of a print to tell the hot end to move out of the way? So if it does come crashing down its off in the corner or something? I use Cura and marlin if thats relevant. I did see this question but I guess my even dumber question is: if that code works, how do I add it? Is that in Cura?
# Answer
What you describe sounds more like a last-layer (or near-last-layer) machine restart than a problem with the Z axis back-driving (though it shouldn't back-drive from the weight of the gantry alone; you may need to tighten things like the anti-backlash nut or Z rollers).
My Ender 3 has, a few times, restarted after 3-6 hours of printing -- leaving the nozzle in a lump of plastic that has oozed as it cooled, and the "resume or stop" selection on the LCD. I haven't seen any indication of overheating, excessive current draw, or other issues with any of my (box stock) components. I have ordered a small 300W UPS to let my machine ignore the (presumed) tiny power flickers that I believe are resetting my mainboard -- but I won't know for certain if this solves the problem for a few weeks after I get the UPS, because the problem has been sporadic even with overnight and longer print times.
With your upgraded mainboard and using the firmware provided by that supplier, you may no longer have the resume feature that was standard on my Ender 3, nor the end of print park (which, in any case, would not happen in the case of a machine reset).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: g-code, z-axis
--- |
thread-16239 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16239 | Jerk causing vibration and Y layer shift... Bad stepper? | 2021-05-03T23:23:30.200 | # Question
Title: Jerk causing vibration and Y layer shift... Bad stepper?
This issue just started recently; I am not sure if it is because of the specific part I am printing or whether something on the printer is going bad. Up until now, I have been printing all kinds of parts with no problems whatsoever.
I am printing a hollow sphere whose walls have fill paths that require the X and Y to change rapidly. i.e. the wall is 2 mm thick and the wall-line-count setting is set to 2.
When the print head is jerking back and forth to fill in this area it causes horrible vibrations and really bad Y layer shift. You can see the vibrations transferred through the flexible neck of the black LED light in the foreground.
All the Cura settings are at default- I have not tried to speed up my printing in any way by adjusting the settings.
The vibration seems to be coming from the Y stepper.
I have already tried tightening the belt; everything else seems tight.
It is an Ender 3 Pro with a stock mainboard and probably around 50 hours on it +/- 20 hours.
I have printed the same part on my other printer with no issues.
This is happening now on other parts that do not have particularly high jerk paths, it is shifting the Y by a full mm or more at a time.
Would you say the stepper motor is going bad? Or the driver? Or something else?
Here is the part in the video; I of course stopped the print after it started shifting:
And this is how it is supposed to look:
EDIT:
Here is the path that causes the problem:
# Answer
Your video doesn’t show a printer moving terribly fast, which makes it seem like it could be a problem with the motion or the electronics. Check the movement of the Y axis by hand, is it smooth? With the belt on, and the stepper motor attached, you’ll feel some resistance and little bumps, from the steps in the motor, but it should be pretty smooth, and especially it should be consistent across the range the bed can move. If you take the belt off, the motion should be like butter. Check the belt pulley isn’t slipping on the motor shaft. Check the idler on the other end of the belt spins freely.
The motor could be suspect, the driver could be suspect. Try running the printer so it sends the bed back and forth, and push against it with your hand a little as it moves. It should be pretty strong, and shouldn’t skip steps from some light pressure. If it does skip easily, it’s something with the motor or driver, or possibly the wiring to the motor (I had a failing connection on my extruder stepper that manifested as wimpy torque and skipped steps). You can beep the wire with a multimeter, and wiggle it around as you beep in case it is a loose/flaky connection. I’m not sure if the creality printers have trimpots for the motor drivers, but some drivers have a bias adjustment where you adjust a voltage with a multimeter, to decide how much current the motor gets. It’s not usually something that goes out of adjustment.
If it doesn’t skip steps easily from adding some resistance with your hand, then it might be an incorrect jerk setting on the printer, or the slicer travel speed is too fast, or, the hot end is hitting some plastic that is sticking up (an overhang curled up possibly), and skipping a step there maybe.
> 0 votes
# Answer
It looks like your printer is working at it's resonating frequency. If the things you mention in your response to ChinchillaWafers is still not good enough, try using different printing speeds or different fill patterns.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, stepper, layer-shifting
--- |
thread-10205 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10205 | Convert a 3D NumPy array of voxels to an STL file | 2019-06-08T17:20:02.833 | # Question
Title: Convert a 3D NumPy array of voxels to an STL file
Given a 3D boolean array representing voxels, how can it be converted to a 3D-printer-ready file?
The end-goal I would like to achieve is to print the 3D shape that the numpy array represents (`True` coding for *fill this voxel*, `False` for *leave it empty*).
For example, the array
```
[
[
[T, T, T],
[T, F, T],
[T, T, T]
],
[
[T, F, T],
[F, F, F],
[T, F, T]
],
[
[T, T, T],
[T, F, T],
[T, T, T]
]
]
```
would encode a level-1 Menger sponge.
# Answer
I agree with the use of OpenSCAD, but since it is difficult to program in OpenSCAD, I would use SolidPython, which is a front end for OpenSCAD with the full programming capability of Python.
In the alternative, you could use any programming language to decode your arrays and generate the OpenSCAD code for the little network of cubes (or voxels).
The final possibility is to generate an STL file directly. I've helped someone do this, but we found the rules to be a little non-intuitive. We used mesh tools to check out results, both by looking for error messages, and by displaying the result to see if it looked as we intended it to look.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Try voxelfuse.
```
from voxelfuse.voxel_model import VoxelModel
from voxelfuse.mesh import Mesh
from voxelfuse.primitives import generateMaterials
if __name__=='__main__':
sponge = [
[
[1, 1, 1],
[1, 0, 1],
[1, 1, 1]
],
[
[1, 0, 1],
[0, 0, 0],
[1, 0, 1]
],
[
[1, 1, 1],
[1, 0, 1],
[1, 1, 1]
]
]
model = VoxelModel(sponge, generateMaterials(4)) #4 is aluminium.
mesh = Mesh.fromVoxelModel(model)
mesh.export('mesh.stl')
```
> 1 votes
# Answer
You can try `mayavi.mlab`:
## Usage
```
from mayavi import mlab
import numpy as np
def draw3d_mayavi(array, path):
mlab.contour3d(array.astype(np.int32)) # a window would pop up
mlab.savefig(path)
mlab.clf() # clear the scene to generate a new one
```
mayavi's recontruction is meant for generating 3D heatmap models of the array, so you have to put in a numeric one with 1s and 0s.
## Note
There are some drawbacks:
1. A window will pop out, you have to clear it in your code if you want to make multiple models.
2. The model reconstructed is .obj and can be very large. If you look closer at the model, you'll see that on the boder the mesh gets 3 layers. I guess the program assumes there to be some gradient.
3. The `contour3d` function can set `line_width`, but I don't see any sense of using it for binary data.
Yet, mayavi is very quick, at least compared with voxelfuse. Maybe some post-processing is needed to solve the size problem.
## Doc
This function also enables setting color and opacity, etc. See Plotting functions - contour3d:
> ### contour3d
>
> ```
> mayavi.mlab.**contour3d**(**args, **kwargs*)
> ```
>
> Plots iso-surfaces for a 3D volume of data supplied as arguments.
>
> **Function signatures:**
>
> `contour3d(scalars, ...) contour3d(x, y, z, scalars, ...)` scalars is a 3D numpy arrays giving the data on a grid.
>
> If 4 arrays, (x, y, z, scalars) are passed, the 3 first arrays give the position, and the last the scalar value. The x, y and z arrays are then supposed to have been generated by *numpy.mgrid*, in other words, they are 3D arrays, with positions lying on a 3D orthogonal and regularly spaced grid with nearest neighbor in space matching nearest neighbor in the array. The function builds a scalar field assuming the points are regularly spaced.
>
> **Keyword arguments:**
>
> * `color` the color of the vtk object. Overides the colormap, if any, when specified. This is specified as a triplet of float ranging from 0 to 1, eg (1, 1, 1) for white.
> * `colormap` type of colormap to use.
> * `contours` Integer/list specifying number/list of contours. Specifying a list of values will only give the requested contours asked for.
> * `extent` \[xmin, xmax, ymin, ymax, zmin, zmax\] Default is the x, y, z arrays extent. Use this to change the extent of the object created.
> * `figure` Figure to populate.
> * `line_width` The width of the lines, if any used. Must be a float. Default: 2.0
> * `name` the name of the vtk object created.
> * `opacity` The overall opacity of the vtk object. Must be a float. Default: 1.0
> * `reset_zoom` Reset the zoom to accomodate the data newly added to the scene. Defaults to True.
> * `transparent` make the opacity of the actor depend on the scalar.
> * `vmax` vmax is used to scale the colormap. If None, the max of the data will be used
> * `vmin` vmin is used to scale the colormap. If None, the min of the data will be used
>
> **Example** (run in `ipython --gui=qt`, or in the mayavi2 interactive shell, see Running mlab scripts for more info):
>
> <pre><code>
> def test_contour3d():
> x, y, z = np.ogrid[-5:5:64j, -5:5:64j, -5:5:64j]
>
> scalars = x * x * 0.5 + y * y + z * z * 2.0
>
> obj = contour3d(scalars, contours=4, transparent=True)
> return obj ```
> </code></pre>
> 1 votes
---
Tags: stl, python
--- |
thread-16438 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16438 | Colour transfer to resin | 2021-06-04T10:45:18.690 | # Question
Title: Colour transfer to resin
Is it possible to perform a colour transfer from paper/transparency film to printed resin?
From what I understand there is some sort of transfer process for resin, but I don't quite understand if this works for 3D printed resins.
# Answer
> 1 votes
As shown in the second video, the resin is used to coat a surface. The resin is clear, or appropriately tinted to provide for a visually pleasing background to the transfer. The transparency is printed on an inkjet printer which embeds the ink into a surface designed to accept the ink, rather than allowing it to bead up, as in the first video.
When the transparency is applied to the wet resin surface and the resin is allowed to cure, the specially formulated transparency surface is transferred to the resin surface, akin to gluing the entire image, using the backing of the transparency "paper" as the carrier. Once cured, the backing peels off, leaving the image.
There is no analogy to resin 3D printing. If you 3D print a resin model that has a suitable flat surface, you could certainly apply the same types of resin shown in the video and duplicate that process. If the surface was not flat, you'll have irregularities in the transparency which will prevent the image from being transferred.
I can't envision how the inkjet image could be transferred during the 3D resin printing process, as the transparency film would interfere with the bonding of the resin to the build plate or the vat surface.
---
Tags: resin, color
--- |
thread-16406 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16406 | Ender 5+ stops while bed leveling | 2021-05-30T02:25:36.233 | # Question
Title: Ender 5+ stops while bed leveling
My Ender-5 Plus has started failing.
The simplest path to failure is:
1. Power On
2. **Settings****Leveling** (wait till complete)
3. Tap measuring
The first zone will measure properly, then when starting to measure the 2nd or 3rd zone while the bed is raising the BLTouch, with probe extended, probe will start flashing red before touching the bed, the bed will descend, then my printer remains in that state (auto-leveling reported at zone 1 or 2, head at position 2 or 3, BLTouch flashing red, probe extended, and bed not moving about 2 cm below probe)
I've also had it fail when attempting repeating levelings, and after starting a print immediately after leveling. (The printer will level, then the head won't move or extrude while the printer starts to repeat progress on the print).
I've tried printing from OctoPrint (which had worked and now fails) then disconnected that completely and powered off then on to try from an SD card, w/ no success. I was able to connect the OctoPrint terminal and do some simple gcodes to see if those worked (`G0 Z100, G0 X100`) and those worked.
I'm not sure what else to try.
# Answer
> 0 votes
After disconnecting and reconnecting every cable, and doing a wiggle check on each, it still didn't work.
So, I went ahead and replaced the BLTouch sensor with an upgrade from Amazon (Creality BL Touch V3.1 Upgraded Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit), and everything started working again. Huzzah!
---
Tags: troubleshooting, bltouch, creality-ender-5
--- |
thread-16455 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16455 | Did I fry my Ender 3 V2 Main Board? | 2021-06-06T18:50:31.673 | # Question
Title: Did I fry my Ender 3 V2 Main Board?
I was replacing the nozzle on my E3D V6 clone and the hotend started turning so I held onto it with pliers while I tightened it.
As I did this, the positive wire of the fan that clips onto the E3D V6 melted on the hotend and threw a spark. At this point, the extruder started running so I hit the power switch then unplugged the main cord.
I checked everything to see what caused it, then turned it back on once I figured out what happened and made sure everything was good. Now when it's powered on, it seems like it's still getting power; the BLTouch turns on but the screen doesn't show anything just the backlighting.
Did I fry my board?
# Answer
Yes, you can damage stepper drivers when you unplug stepper motors. Hot (un)plugging of stepper cables can cause voltage spikes that can destroy the stepper drivers. Furthermore, shorting out the fan may have caused damage also to other parts of the board (voltage regulator, fuse, etc ). These controller boards are not that expensive, ordering a spare would get you up and running quickly. Also order a new fan, mind the voltage.
No, pulling the power cord or switching off the controller board will not destroy the board.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, extruder, electronics
--- |
thread-16443 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16443 | Can you reuse servo pins on MKS Gen L? | 2021-06-04T17:56:38.977 | # Question
Title: Can you reuse servo pins on MKS Gen L?
I need to find enough spare pins to add two extra motor drivers for my big printer build. I am using two motors for the Y and three for Z, I can use the E1 for one of them because I won't be using a second extruder.
I need to find six pins to get two external drivers working. I know the MKS Gen L has 3 servo ports, but one will be going to my BLTouch. Can I reuse the other ports? What other ports can I use for adding extra motor drivers?
I know it also has AUX ports as well but I don't know if they are being using by somthing else.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Have a look at the boards pinout:
You'll need 3 pins for each additional driver - enable, step, and dir. The AUX-2 connector should give your 8 GPIO pins for that, without losing other functionality like the display.
You might also be able to wire your Y axis motors in series, saving one stepper driver. You could then use E1 and three of the four servo pins for the 2nd and 3rd Z axis stepper drivers.
---
Tags: stepper-driver, servo
--- |
thread-14860 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14860 | Brittle resin prints | 2020-11-22T04:44:48.077 | # Question
Title: Brittle resin prints
I do not have a clear understanding of what causes resin prints to become brittle. Firstly, it appears excessive cold (in the 40s or even 30s, I am in New England) may be a factor. What else can cause brittleness in resin prints? Is there a difference between resin types?
# Answer
# Many printing resins are *inherently* brittle.
Brittle is a property of the material - so of the used printing resin.
Look at the first seconds of this video \- Punished Props Academy drops an SLA/DLP printed dagger on the ground from about 1 meter and it shatters, despite having been carefully post cured and washed and everything. To mitigate that trouble they did a cast of the item with a different resin.
However, the exact brittle behavior of the print is inherently linked to the exact formulation and thus the exact brand and type of resin used.
# Some are less brittle than others - and outright flexible.
You might need to test around, but there are flexible resins. This german essay contains pictures and even a video of a *super flexible* printing resin. Just an example: One such rubbery resin is Formlabs Flexible 80A, and Matterhackers has a range of different flexible resins. Google does show other brands too by googling "SLA Resin Flexible"
---
I am not affiliated with Formlabs, Matterhackers, or Techstage.de
> 1 votes
# Answer
*disclaimer: I own a company manufacturing 3D printing resins, and all links lead to my products :)*
# Key reason - resin formula
First of all, it really depends on the composition of your resin. Some of them are more brittle than others. Usually cheaper resins are more brittle.
# What causes properties to change?
That being said, some tougher resins even with some flexibility once printed can still become brittle over time. That could happen due to:
* Continued exposure to UV light. It continues to cure your model and it loses its flexibility. The same goes to over-curing of your prints. If you print with longer exposure time settings than needed it will produce stiffer prints with less flexibility.
* Arid environment. If the air in your environment is dry, some resins can become more brittle.
* Cold environment. Heat makes plastics more flexible.
# What can you do?
Best way to protect your models from getting brittle - covering them with paint or other UV resistant coating.
You can also choose resins that don't become brittle over time and is less sensitive to above mentioned causes. For example our TGM-7 resin:
> 1 votes
---
Tags: resin
--- |
thread-10339 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10339 | DLP build plate adhesion | 2019-06-21T19:42:48.493 | # Question
Title: DLP build plate adhesion
Does anyone have tips on improving build plate adhesion in DLP printers? I've heard a thin layer of resin or UV glue applied to the plate will help, but we're not sure if we leave the resin/glue wet, or cure it before we start the print. Apologies for the ignorance here, but I'm just trying to avoid gluing my build plate to the bottom of the resin vat! Any advice would be appreciated.
***Update*** I had a product called ProtoGlass recommended to me in another forum, that apparently works as a good build plate primer for the resin we're trying to grow (BlueCast x5). Ordering today, and I'll update further with the results.
# Answer
You do not need to use any glue or any other adhesion modifier to increase your build plate adhesion. Take these steps instead:
1. Make sure your **build plate is level**
2. Use proper attachment layer (**raft**) - see 3D printing raft in resin 3D printing: what you need to know.
3. Increase **bottom layer exposure**
4. Make sure your **resin is not cold** (25+ °C works best)
5. Make sure your **build plate is flat and even**. Sometimes they come faulty from the factory. Lay it flat on the glass and see if all corners touch it evenly.
6. **Sand your build plate**
7. Make sure to use high **quality FEP**. If it get's scratched or cloudy - change it.
8. Make sure the **tension of your FEP** is right. Not too tight, not too loose.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I have heard that adding a few pieces of masking tape to the print surface improves adhesion.
> -1 votes
---
Tags: adhesion, resin, dlp
--- |
thread-16458 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16458 | Ender 3 Pro stuck print excess | 2021-06-07T00:37:13.743 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro stuck print excess
I have an Ender 3 Pro. When I print, the area that the printer goes around before printing gets stuck and I can't scrape it or use alcohol.
Both of these methods are used with a heated and cooled bed. Does anyone know how to fix this?
# Answer
> 2 votes
With PETG I use Elmer's glue sticks to form a barrier protecting my print surface.
When PETG stuck too hard to the print surface, I have to decide what to destroy; the print or the print surface. Removing at room temperature can tear the print surface. Heating the bed to 80 °C or above softens the print, making it easier to remove, but distorts during removal.
If the print is already removed, you can heat the bed to make the remaining material easier to scrape off. With a glue stick, especially a washable glue stick, you can first clean off the glue stick and undercut the material on the bed.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-16453 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16453 | Metal watches 3D printing | 2021-06-06T15:38:50.220 | # Question
Title: Metal watches 3D printing
I have noticed major watches watch brands do not seem to offer manuals to 3D print your own parts.
Is there a reason for this?
I would assume in this day and age, with watch repair a dying profession, transitioning parts to 3D printing would be a logical next step (notice luxury watches are still very popular but also fluctuating).
I have found minimal information on 3D printing watches. Maybe there is another name for this science and it's not typically fit for 3D printing? It appears some purists aren't into 3D printing. So it appears watch parts are machined except for the small parts.
# Answer
The way you manufacture a part has enormous effects on how the mechanism around it is designed. In a complex enough mechanism you can't just replace any milled part with a 3D printed one.
Furthermore, the answer to your question is already partly in the article you linked:
> ... the technology is not mature enough for production.
>
> (Tino Bobe)
I guess the watch casing would be the only part that could be possible or reasonable to 3D-print today but would have a distinctly different look than the original, which makes it not desirable.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I would imagine that the main reason that "major watch brands" don't offer free models is so that they don't put themselves out of business. The same goes for car brands and most, if not all, other commercial products. After sales parts and repairs *can* be a significant revenue earner, and if free DIY repair solutions were provided then that revenue stream would be lost. Not to mention the probable voiding of any warranties, when the owner opens the watch up, in order to attempt the repair themselves.
Off the top of my head, I can't think of any commercial enterprise that offers free 3D models for parts, *unless* they have gone out of business (and not bought out by another company) and the plans have been kindly made open-source. I came across an example of this recently, via some obscure youtube video, which was an obsolete, yet well-known, computer hardware manufacturer who had made their blueprints available (circuit diagrams, source code, etc.).
Also, it would require a considerable amount of additional work, by the manufacturer, for all of the individual watch parts to be separately modelled accurately (into a printable 3D file format), and just would not be profitable (nor practical, given issue of accuracy raised by the answer by Tillex72). In addition, and I'm guessing here and will probably be proved to be incorrect, I'd imagine that the pool of watch enthusiasts that have a 3D printer is quite small - so the target audience wouldn't be large enough to generate the demand to make it worthwhile, even if the files were made available for a considerable fee.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: metal-printing
--- |
thread-16469 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16469 | Raising E-steps on my CR-6 SE makes the extruder choppy | 2021-06-07T18:30:49.797 | # Question
Title: Raising E-steps on my CR-6 SE makes the extruder choppy
I have the community edition of the firmware for my CR-6 SE printer installed on a BigTreeTech SKR-CR6 V1.0 board. This firmware has a nice E-step calibration guide you can use to easily get the correct step/mm value.
However when I raise that value, my extruder motor starts to chop, it's like it doesn't have enough strength to push the filament through and starts chopping.
I tried raising the current on the extruder motor, from 600 mA which is standard, to 900 mA incrementally, but it didn't make any difference.
I just replaced the stock extruder with a dual gear extruder in hopes that the extruder was causing this. but the new extruder faces the same issue.
I think raising the Vref value for the extruder motor might help, but I don't know how to do that. on the BTT SKR-CR6 V1.0 board all stepper drivers are in UART mode so there is no way to change this on the board itself. and there is no way to change Vref in the UI as far as I know.
What should I do to progress with this issue?
# Answer
> 1 votes
You cannot change the Vref of a UART operated stepper driver, setting the current directly is the way to go on UART operated stepper drivers; in fact that is actually what you are doing on non-UART operated stepper drivers, you change the Vref to change the current through the stepper motor, the higher the voltage the higher the current through the stepper the more torque the stepper has.
Depending on the stepper you may increase the current even more, this depends on the stepper motor model/type. There are stepper motorss that allow more than 1000 mA, I don't know the steppers used in the CR6 E, find out before you test higher values.
Please note that there may be something else causing this issue, possibly your filament path is having a lot of resistance. You should check the extrusion manually and possibly clean the nozzle and heat break.
---
*A similar question is found here: Is the Vref trimmer relevant on TMC2208 in UART mode?*
---
Tags: stepper-driver, creality-cr-6, skr-cr6
--- |
thread-16263 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16263 | How to wire 5 V proximity sensor Ender 3 V2? | 2021-05-08T16:27:29.247 | # Question
Title: How to wire 5 V proximity sensor Ender 3 V2?
I’ve got this proximity sensor which is a 5 V, it doesn’t say it can be used over 5 V. Can I use a buck converter or is it possible to wire it up direct to a 5 V source on the Ender 3 V2?
What I don’t understand is where to wire it direct to 5 V on the printer or if I use a buck converter then where does the 3rd wire go to on the printer? If it goes to the signal wire on the Z endstop then which one is the signal wire?
# Answer
# That part seems dubious
Your part is labeled `LJ18A3-8-Z/BX`. That is a Z/BX type sensor of the LJ18A3-8 series - that first part dictates an M18 outer thread and thus dimensions and a triggering distance of 8mm. Z/BX indicates NPN NO, so a normally open sensor of the NPN type. However, that labeling indicates an inductive sensor with a required **supply voltage of 6 to 36 V** and a power draw of 10 mA between the supply and ground line and a digital output signal of 300 mA.
There is a variant in existence, that has a 5 V supply voltage, but its part number is different by 3 characters: `LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V` \- the appended `-5V` is crucial to show it differs from the standard!
# The Ender-3 Board
The Ender-3 board has a 24 V input from the power supply and runs its end-stops on 5 V logic. That would suffice to connect the output of a `LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V` sensor directly to a sensor pin.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The schematic attached to the cable shows the wiring for the sensor. There is BN+, BK, BU-; these are presumably the brown, black and blue wires respectively. The schematic BN+ is the positive supply wire (should be connected to 5V) and BU- the negative wire (should be connected to ground). BK is the output wire and should be connected to the endstop signal pin.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, creality
--- |
thread-16448 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16448 | Up! mini raft sticking to prints | 2021-06-05T22:50:14.317 | # Question
Title: Up! mini raft sticking to prints
I have an UP! mini and I am using the UP Studio and ABS 1.75 mm.
My prints are always stuck to the rafts and are impossible to remove without destroying the print.
I've had a look at the settings on the Up Studio but I don't know which ones to change to improve the situation.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Normally, the print is made to separate easily from the raft by minimizing layer adhesion between the first layer of the actual part and the last layer of the raft.
If this isn't happening with your prints, you likely need to adjust some settings in your slicer. You need to ensure that the first part layer is more than a normal layer height above the top raft layer (in Cura Slicer, I believe this would be the First Layer Thickness); this should be comparable to the Z distance allowance for supports to be removable. You may also want or need to adjust the line width and temperature for the first part layer -- too wide a line may stick too well, and if the first layer is too hot, the same will occur.
It may require several test prints to find just the right settings, though I'd start with resetting your slicer to its default for the printer and materials you're using, and start any adjustments from that base.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There doesn't seem to be much documentation on that particular proprietary software, but in conventional slicers, the setting you are looking for is called the "raft air gap". This should be a distance value slightly higher than your regular layer height.
So if printing with 0.2 mm layer height, do 0.28 mm or something of the sort. Check to see if your UP studio slicer has advanced settings and find something along those lines.
---
Tags: abs
--- |
thread-16480 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16480 | Does a sturdy table really matter? | 2021-06-09T07:50:27.873 | # Question
Title: Does a sturdy table really matter?
There seems to be general consensus that, among other things, a sturdy table is important for print quality.
Within reason, I don't understand why a wobbly table would be bad. Has anyone done a controlled study/investigation on how wobbliness affects print quality?
Ringing artifacts seem to be what people think platform sturdiness helps with. But the frequencies of these artifacts seem to be broadly in the range of 40-100 Hz. The resonance of a cheap fold-out table is seems much lower than that - perhaps 10 Hz or less. And intuitively, it seems that a 10 Hz resonance would have to be *very* energetic to significantly affect the motion of the extruder.
YouTube links, written studies, or personal experience welcome!
# Answer
> 4 votes
A clear answer is not available, since no one performed a proper test as of June 2021.
The closest answer I can provide is that damping feet result in a change of vibration behaviour, as discussed in this Klipper issue report. How it's not clear.
I paste some of the findings:
> I took several measurements with different configurations and the results are quite surprising IMO. The following graphs show the respective vibration results for (from left to right):
>
> 1- The retrofit back to the standard hard rubber feet
>
> 2- The printer only standing on the "feet clamps" as shown in the picture above
>
> 3- The printer standing on the "feet clamps" but with squash balls inserted
>
> **X-Axis**
>
> Configuration 2 vs 3: The damping is causing an additional spike at ~76 Hz; Power-Spectral-Density is roughly the same; Overall vibration is a bit lower in the damped version (11.4 % vs 16% @ 3hump\_ei) --\> Probably due to damping the additional spike; A bit surprisingly the shaper recommendation is identical
>
> Configuration 1 (original feet) drives Power-Spectral-Density from e3 range to e4 range
>
> Configuration 1 brought back a dominant spike at around 75 Hz to 80 Hz (which was surprisingly gone with the printer sitting on the hard and small area of the "feet clamps"
>
> Configuration 1 nearly tripled the spike at 75 Hz to 80 Hz compared to No. 3 (Power-Spectral-Density 12,000 vs 4,200) The spike at around 30 Hz stayed pretty much the same
>
> **Y-Axis**
>
> The effect on the Y-axis is pretty small
>
> **My conclusions**
>
> The resonance effects very much depend on the type of feet
>
> For whatever reason every damping in the feet resulted in worse vibration
If you want to know more about it, install Klipper and an ADXL345 accelerometer, make measurements, write a blog post or post here in a new answer.
I may be able to do it within within the year. It's a loose deadline, yes.
I have a printer on a wobbly table, but I haven't performed measurements yet.
I expect it to be better than a stiff table, since part of the energy is dissipated by the table and not by the printer frame (we are not talking about independent feet, but table as a whole), resulting in better quality at high acceleration. Of course if your printer runs at 500-1500 mm/s^2 you won't see anything. If you run at 5000+ mm/s^2, then...
---
Tags: print-quality
--- |
thread-14264 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14264 | Do thermistors degrade in accuracy without hard failure? | 2020-08-17T04:18:32.450 | # Question
Title: Do thermistors degrade in accuracy without hard failure?
Lately I've been having problems with overhangs not adhering when curvature is outward (stringing across instead) that look like what you'd see at insufficient temperature, and that go away with temperature jacked up a bit (PLA at 220 °C, which is a bit extreme) or fan disabled. Is it possible that the hotend thermistor has drifted and is no longer accurate, making the actual temperature lower than nominal? Or do these things fail hard when they fail?
# Answer
Yes, thermistors can drift in value as well as outright failing (usually open).
In my experience this is not uncommon in thermistors operated above 100 degrees C. The drift is typically downward in resistance so the controlled temperature will be less than the desired setpoint, which is exactly what you are observing.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Most thermosensors are functionally nothing different but a temperature dependant resistor. As such, our boards usually use $U=RI$ to get to the resistance, and then compare that to a temperature table. In effect, they put in a regulated potential difference, and measure how much current flows. Plugging this into $U/I=R$ gives the Resistance, which then gives the temperature from the table. In fact, since U is assumed fixed in most firmware, the lookup can also be done directly via the current.
In theory, a resistor's resistance follows $R=R\_0(1+\alpha \Delta T)$. Now, Alpha is the proportionality factor of our resistor, delta-T the difference to the tested temperature, at which point the resistor gives R<sub>0</sub>. Note that Alpha might be also temperature dependant, which is why the firmware looks up the table, not calculates it fresh. So far so good, right? Well... one more thing. Under the standard conditions, we can also use $R\_0=\rho \frac l A$ to learn about the resistor, the resistance is the specific resistance times length divided by crossection area.
Now, from just the many factors that play into the thing, we have several points where we might gain error over time:
* The Thermosensor's resistor itself might break down, for example by operating it too hot. In this case, the factor $\rho$ as well as the effective crossection area get altered. Such a resistor will show a resistance under no heating outside of the known good value. To do this, you'd need to operate your thermosensor above its rating, usually that's in the area of 250 to 290 °C. As an example, the standard e3D Thermosensors are good till about 285 °C, but they also have ones good for up to 500 °C, while the welded thermocouples are only safe for -50 to 250 °C due to it's PTFE sleeve. Removing said sleeve allows to use it for a larger temperature area, but that is not listed.
* The wiring might be damaged. If the wires to the Thermosensor are kinked and effectively thinner, they might add extra resistance. This would be detectable by measuring the leads to the resistor - they should in best case have close to $0\ \Omega$ resistance. As the wiring is the most stressed part usually, and the wire bundles are often packed well enough to not show up too much even if some strands are broken, such should show up only in the very last stages before a total failure.
* The board might not measure correctly, for two reasons: either it might look at the wrong reference table as you might have swapped to a different type of thermosensor in a repair, or it might use the wrong (too little/too much) potential difference U to obtain it's measurement I and thus look in the wrong row of the table. For this, there is a fix available in the firmware by swapping to the correct temperature table or calibrating your own one for your off-standard voltage. The latter is a highly involved process and needs you to measure against a known temperature repeatedly.
<sub>I am not affiliated with e3D; they are merely one of the best-documented stores for replacement parts I know about, which is why I consulted their catalog.</sub>
> 3 votes
# Answer
I don't think it is the thermistor degrading. To answer your question directly, all my thermistors have failed because the tiny wire has broken off, and generally the fail is “hard” not soft.
It is more likely you’re experiencing absorbed humidity in the filament from it being out on the spool too long. this makes you have to increase the temperature.
I’m sure if you dehydrated the spool in the oven for a bit you’d get better prints and a slightly lower print temp.
Additionally, keep in mind that a lot of PLA on the market nowadays runs at higher temps because it’s laced with something (“PLA+”?). Check the item description for indicators of a new or improved formula.
You could try ordering a thermistor of the same make and testing the temperature of it. You can get a half dozen for about \\$10. The Marlin firmware your printer probably uses should have a section for thermistors and what kind you’re using. It’s probably type “1” which is the cheap kind.
You can try using one of those distant head thermometers to measure the temperature wirelessly at the hot end. These are probably over \\$100 right now because of COVID. I think that is how a well-resourced person would handle this (i'm not one personally).
Maybe start with the oven and while it’s cooking, research the thermistors and what goes in to replacing one. It’s a good learning experience because one day your hotend may be irreparably clogged and you’ll want to know some of the steps to disassemble it.
> 2 votes
# Answer
It is indeed possible that the thermistor is broken (yet not sure). I am aware of two types of issues with thermistors:
1. The contact (soldering) is broken, usually due to the temperature extreme variations. The thermistor will indicate the maximum temperature in case of PTC or minimum temperature in case of NTC. In some cases, due to vibrations or other factor, the contact will eventually touch, showing improbable jumps of temperature.
2. The thermistor is broken internally. In that case it will just indicate a wrong temperature. I can't say if constant temperature or constant delta.
For how to troubleshot the component, however, EE.SE seems more convenient.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Adding my 2 cents...
In practice thermistors hard fail. They do not "drift" fast enough for an application to notice. What's most likely happening (assuming that the problem is the temp) is that the reference voltage that is being used to determine the resistance of the thermistor could be faulty. As a simple test, you should get a basic thermometer to measure the temperature of the room. Then check it against the printer when it is sitting idle. If the 2 temps differ by more than 1 degree, then something is wrong. Check if the bed and nozzle thermistors are reading the same value (again to within 1 degree). If they are not, then swap the leads and see if if you get the same problem (with the printer idle of course).
If you have access to a multimeter, then measure the resistance of the thermistor, and then look up what the resistance should be at a certain temp (there are tables for this on the internet).
> 1 votes
# Answer
NTC Thermistors can fail progressively due to moisture, cracking, changes in the material structure. Don't forget that you are operating them at neat the maximum temperature, not at room temperature.
In this article about NTC resistors for current limiting (subjected to current pulses, but tested also for high temperature stress) they say:
> Process of degradation of NTC thermistors has complex character and is, in considerable degree, determined by the total number of applied current impulses or thermal cycles. Initial rise of resistance is caused probably by oxidation process or modification of ionic distribution.
Luckily, after an initial burn-in, they are stable for quite some time. You may just need to recalibrate. Or use a PT1000 resistor which should not have similar issues, and which works without any additional electronics.
See also here for a statement by a manufacturer that NTC ages:
> At room temperature the polycrystalline material shows solid-state reactions which lead to an irreversible change in the characteristics (usually resistance increase, change of B value etc). Physical reasons for this may be thermal stress causing a change in concentration of lattice imperfections, oxygen exchange with the environment (with unprotected, non-glass-encapsulated thermistors) or diffusion in the contact areas of metallized surface contacts. At low temperatures these reactions slow down, but at high temperatures they accelerate and finally decline with time. To enhance long-term stability, our NTC thermistors can be subjected to an aging process directly after manufacture.
See this graph from this page for drift as function of time and temperature:
> 1 votes
---
Tags: hotend, thermistor
--- |
thread-16486 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16486 | Can a Prusa be converted to IDEX? | 2021-06-09T18:03:51.610 | # Question
Title: Can a Prusa be converted to IDEX?
I have a Prusa i3 Mk3s with an MMU2s on it. And to be frank, as far as the MMU goes, I have not had much luck with it. I've seen people print amazing MMU prints and it works great for them, but I have had MUCH less success.
If a print requires 900 filament changes to go back and forth between colors, even if I have the MMU dialed-in to work 99 % of the time, well that's still 9 failures in that print. I'm sure there are things I could do to dial it in, but I have a different question for now:
I have other printers I work with that have dual extruders and work great, and I've been eyeballing an IDEX kit for my Ender 3, which got me thinking that there's gotta be a way to put IDEX on a Prusa.
I was also eyeballing my MMU and thinking I could scrap it for parts (stepper motors etc) for the IDEX. I did a quick Google search and couldn't really find anything, but is there a reason for that? Is the control board not able to handle it, etc?
# Answer
It would require an adaptation so extensive that I would define it "rebuild".
You would end up savaging basically only the bare frame and the steppers.
I'm not aware, in fact, of anyone ever doing it.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, dual-nozzle
--- |
thread-16483 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16483 | Are part cooling fans available in opposite orientation? | 2021-06-09T14:35:35.510 | # Question
Title: Are part cooling fans available in opposite orientation?
All the blower fans for part cooling I've seen rotate counter-clockwise when viewed from the intake side. I'm looking to replace mine on an Ender 3 with something stronger, and one of the worst parts of the stock design is that it's offset by about 20 mm versus the nozzle position, requiring awkward duct paths that reduce the flow to get uniform coverage around the newly extruded material. A fan that rotates in the opposite direction, with air exiting on the right-hand size when viewed from the intake side, would be exactly right. Are there such models available, and if so, what is the right terminology to search for them by? Or is there a simple way to modify a fan to reverse its direction?
# Answer
They exist, but maybe only for industrial use and not so compact. Look for "clockwise".
https://barkerbille.com/technology/designation-of-position/
You could carve the back side of a normal blower with some openings (make a grid out of it) and obstruct the original inlet (or leave both open...).
> 0 votes
# Answer
Commenting on the idea of changing the air holes, that could work for either the intakes OR the outputs, depends on how the fan is built. The exit port might be easier to cut out with a dremel or something, then tape over the old exit hole. The intake zones tend to be large and any kind of obstruction rather than a fully open face would not be recommended.
> 0 votes
# Answer
This is probably a stupid answer, but wouldn't switching the ground and hot pins cause the fan to blow the other way. (Which wouln't do much without reversing the blades)
> 0 votes
---
Tags: cooling, print-fan
--- |
thread-7194 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7194 | Using heat-set inserts with SLA printed part | 2018-10-17T14:05:17.083 | # Question
Title: Using heat-set inserts with SLA printed part
I have an SLA printed part I want to put a brass threaded insert in using a soldering iron. The insert is slightly larger than the hole so I would assume the edge will melt and re-freeze around the teeth. Are there any issues with melting SLA or this idea in general?
# Answer
The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a *thermoset* plastic, as opposed to the *thermoplastic* plastics used in FDM printing. What this means, is that it *can not be melted*. The reaction that hardens SLA materials is irreversible. If you heat up the plastic it won't melt, it will just burn (if it gets hot enough). What you're planning is a bad idea, and it won't work.
> 8 votes
# Answer
There is an alternative. Use screw to expand inserts before final curing. After washing, but before curing, place the threaded insert into the hole. Use a screw to expand it into the hole walls. Curing will then 'fix' the insert into the hole. Hope this late advise is usable. TC Carr
https://www.mcmaster.com/screw-to-expand-inserts/
> 1 votes
# Answer
Is it possible to make the hole larger, put the brass insert with a pre-installed screw inside the hole, fill the area with resin and cure with UV lamp?
> 0 votes
---
Tags: sla
--- |
thread-16456 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16456 | The chin piece of my print does not print properly | 2021-06-06T20:14:49.237 | # Question
Title: The chin piece of my print does not print properly
I am printing this piece using a 0.4 mm nozzle. It happens that the piece on the chin does not print properly.
I have already tried the tree mode supports, touching the plate and in all the places but the same thing happens.
I include photos of my configuration in Cura.
>
>
>
# Answer
This is caused by insufficient support under the whole chin, incorrect slicer settings and the fact that the chin is an overhang than isn't connected to the model at the lower layers (this means that an island is printed in a sea of support that later becomes a peninsula).
The model is a Pokenmon called Dragonite which was found on Thingiverse. When sliced with the tree support option (note that tree support has been an advanced experimental option probably due to the issues with this support type) Cura builds a tree-like structure of which the stem/branch spreads out just before printing the island of the chin:
The problem is that the created support isn't enough for the print settings you are using. E.g. from a different view, you can see that part of the chin is unsupported with this support (note that the chin is also pretty flat, so each consecutive outer wall of each layer doesn't have the best contact with the previous layer, this is something you encounter when you print a sphere or rounded corners, that is why chamfers are preferred over rounded corners on bottom layers):
As seen in the latter image, there is quite some distance of the outer wall perimeter that is printed without support and minimal adhesion to the previous layer.
To deal with this you need to dial in the printer for this filament, i.e. do not print too hot, and use sufficient part cooling. Also be aware that you print the inner walls before the outer walls. You can also choose a different type of support, but that could result in supports that are stuck to the model, which are not easy to remove and possibly leave scars. Rotating the model around the X-axis can also be an option I've used successfully on printing miniatures.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I see that you have a minimum support angle of 60 degrees -- that may mean Cura Slicer isn't generating supports for that chin. Try changing this minimum to a lower figure -- 51 degrees or lower. From what I've read, most filaments and settings will allow 60 degrees with PLA, but this is the easy first thing to try to get that chin supported.
On looking at the photo again, I also wonder if what looks like a bad overhang print is actually supports that didn't separate as they should -- perhaps you only need to adjust your Z skip for supports to get them to come off the actual part better.
Following up, I saw a likely cause for this on one of my own prints yesterday -- coincidentally on the chin of a sculpture part. What I observed is that supports for this region, which trailed up the body (as would those for your dragon's chin), likely due to their slenderness, repeatedly got knocked over. The support structure "healed" over several layers after each such incident, but in a very fragile condition that would again get knocked off by a nozzle brush. The solution to this is either to enable Z-hop on retraction (so travel doesn't brush the nozzle across supports printed in the same layer), or to reorient the part so the problem support is shorter and doesn't run right alongside the actual body wall. Z-hop has less effect on other areas of the print.
> 3 votes
# Answer
You need to zoom in on the layers where the support is being generated and check if there is actually support being generated under that area.
Additionally, I noticed your support generation setting is "Touching build plate only". You should change this setting to 'everywhere' because it could be that build plate support cannot directly reach the area in question (so a portion of it is residing over an already printed surface). With this setting changed though, double check the rest of your print is not generating unecesssary supports, and if it is, use support blocker feature to get rid of them.
And as a last thought, after changing the setting i mentioned above, also play around with overhang angle and carefully observe how the rendering of the support structures changes (like, really zoom in those gaps and check).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality
--- |
thread-16487 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16487 | How does direct drive conversion allow higher print temperatures? | 2021-06-09T18:37:26.703 | # Question
Title: How does direct drive conversion allow higher print temperatures?
I have an Ender 3, currently in stock Bowden extruder configuration.
I want to be able to print nylon and TPU, both of which require temperature too high for the tolerance of the PTFE Bowden tube (as well as the issues with the flexible filament in the tube).
Therefore, I've considered converting my printer to direct drive. However, the conversions I've seen, both DIY/print the parts type and commercial, seem to include a short length of the same PTFE tube between the extruder (now mounted on the hot end carriage) and the actual hot end. This same material ought to have the same temperature limit (about 250 C) as it would have in a Bowden configuration -- and for nylon, at the least, this is a problem, since the PTFE would start to soften from contact with the heat break.
Am I missing something in these conversions, or is the PTFE's glass transition not the limiting factor in printing hotter with a direct drive conversion?
# Answer
Direct Drive v.s. Bowden has no relation to the maximum print temperature. What determines the maximum print temperature is the design of the hotend itself. There are "all-metal" designs, where the PTFE tube (Bowden or not) stops in the cold zone and the heatbreak and all other components that get hot are fully made of metal. Other hotend designs have the PTFE tube run all the way down into the hot zone and this limits the maximum printing temperature. It has nothing to do with whether the hotend is Bowden or not.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Bowden tubes extending to the nozzle to make a seal will damage the Teflon (PTFE) tube if exceeding 250°C for an extended time. An all-metal hotend for a Bowden would have either the nozzle sealed against the heatbreak or an integrated nozzle and heatbreak. Then the Bowden tube would attach with a minimum gape with either the heatbreak or heatsink.
Note: The heater block needs to be at the maximum operating temperature When making a seal between the nozzle and heatbreak.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, hotend, nylon, tpu, direct-drive
--- |
thread-16502 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16502 | Prints have over extrusion only during diagonals | 2021-06-10T15:15:37.933 | # Question
Title: Prints have over extrusion only during diagonals
So I have printed multiple benchies with various slicer settings. I have also made sure my bed is leveled well.
But no matter what I do, I get these over extrusion whenever my nozzle is moving in diagonals (left-right). It's always this same angle where it goes wrong.
Has anyone else who has faced this and has figured out know what the issue can be? I'm new to 3D printing so the help would be very much appreciated.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The issue was that the X-axis belt was super loose, figured it after someone pointed it out on Reddit:
> swordfish45
>
> You have an extremely loose x belt. That's the root cause of all your problems I can see in these pics.
---
Tags: extrusion, 3d-printerworks
--- |
thread-16499 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16499 | "Unable to read TMC UART 'extruder' register IFCNT" - Klipper and Robin Nano | 2021-06-10T11:38:30.490 | # Question
Title: "Unable to read TMC UART 'extruder' register IFCNT" - Klipper and Robin Nano
I'm trying to use software UART for TMC2209 steppers on a BigTreeTech v1.2 and apply that to my Robin Nano v.1.1 using Klipper firmware.
I declared a different pin for every driver and I edit my `printer.cfg` in this way:
```
[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PA10
run_current: 0.75
hold_current: 0.4
stealthchop_threshold: 9999
interpolate: true
[tmc2209 stepper_y]
uart_pin: PA9
run_current: 0.75
hold_current: 0.4
stealthchop_threshold: 9999
interpolate: true
[tmc2209 stepper_z]
uart_pin: PC7
run_current: 0.75
hold_current: 0.4
stealthchop_threshold: 1
interpolate: true
[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: PC13
run_current: 0.3
stealthchop_threshold: 1
interpolate: true
```
I watched this video
But I have this error:
```
Unable to read TMC UART 'extruder' register IFCNT
```
Why is this happening?
# Answer
I had the same issue. In general, that means that the pins you specified doesn't work.
"I declared a different pin for every driver": you don't need just "different pins", you need the CORRECT pins. Check if you specified the correct ones: below the SKR the pins are labelled.
And then check that the TMC module has the UART pin(s) (there are two) are connected to the chip! the TMC modules often are sold with three empty pads on the lower side of the PCB. The central one goes to the chip, then each other pad goes to one pin. You need to bridge with solder the central one and the pad for the pin you want to use.
In the following image you can (barely) see that the central pad near the red line is bridged with the upper one.
Also, for the extruder the stealthchop threshold should be 0, not 1! you don't want stealthchop for the extruder.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: firmware, wire-type, klipper, tmc2209
--- |
thread-16506 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16506 | Creality Ender 3 -X-axis moves too much | 2021-06-11T04:44:00.000 | # Question
Title: Creality Ender 3 -X-axis moves too much
I just assembled Ender 3 and noticed that the X-axis movement doesn't correspond to the commands. When I make it move 1 mm with the encoder it moves 16 mm. Everything is in the "out of the box" configuration.
The current steps/mm for the X-axis read (from the display) 80 steps/mm.
Am I supposed to manually fix this with steps per mm setting or could it be another problem. Other axes seem to work fine. I also double checked and everything should be built correctly.
# Answer
To answer your question explicitly,
> Am I supposed to manually fix this with steps per mm setting
**No**, you should only do that if the incorrect value has been set, the reported value of 80 corresponds to the values found in all `configuration.h` files for the boards used by the Ender 3. This value implies the use of stepper drivers with a 1/16 micro-stepping value.
> or could it be another problem.
**Yes**, due to the value of 80 being set, there seems to be a problem with the electronics, this can be a jumper issue or a soldering issue. As this is an "out-of-the-box" issue, you should notify your vendor that the printer isn't functioning properly before you screw it open, it might void the warranty as this is not something you expect from an "out-of-the-box" 3D printer.
---
*The following text is added for a more complete answer to look up the value (initially, the question did not mention this), this is left for others that may stumble upon this question.*
---
You can check these values from the printer LCD (stepper settings menu) or by attaching a console (What is a printer console/terminal?) over USB and enter G-code `M92` (or for older Marlin versions `M503` without any parameters as the Marlin documentation states:
> Get the current steps-per-unit settings using `M92` with no parameters or `M503` on older versions of Marlin.
The response will give you the values of the steps/mm for all steppers. The value for the X-axis should be 80 (default) according to the Marlin `Configurations-release-2.0.7.2` for the Ender 3 printer (note that there are multiple controller boards, so micro-stepping value can be an issue).
If you need to change the value, you need to use `M92 X[value]` to change the value, use `M500` to store the value. Be sure to note which controller board you have, what micro-stepping value is used (1/16, 1/32, etc.). Note that specific calculators exist to assist you.
Based on the comment, the value is already 80, so that should be correct, you really need to check if the board is using micro-stepping, it appears it isn't using this.
You could also test a self generated G-code file containing:
```
G28 ; home print head
G1 X0 Y0 Z2 F500 ; move to the origin at slightly higher position
G1 X10 Y10 ; move 10 mm in X and Y, if incorrect the machine is at (150, 10) or possibly (160, 10) -> this will hint to micro-stepping issue (full steps, not using 1/16 micro-stepping)
```
The benefit of using this G-code is that it will amplify the movement by tenfold, if there is a micro-stepping issue, it is easier to measure the movement of the head, a difference of 0 -\> 150 *<sup>1)</sup>* or 160 is easier measured than 0 -\> 15 *<sup>1)</sup>* (or 16). If the controller board uses jumpers to set the micro-stepping mode, there might be incorrectly placed. This also tests if the Y-axis is suffering of the same issue, else the print head will be located at (150, 10) *<sup>1)</sup>* or (160, 10).
---
*<sup>1)</sup>* *Note that the original question mentioned 15 mm prior to the more logical 16 mm*
> 0 votes
# Answer
> When I make it move 1 mm with the encoder it moves more like 15 mm.
15 is suspiciously close to 16. Perhaps the motor driver is operating in full step mode rather than microstepping. This could be due to a manufacturing defect in the electronics. To diagnose this you would need a multimeter to measure the voltage on the microstepping select pins of the affected motor driver.
Some main boards have jumpers to select the microstepping mode. I am not entirely sure but I don't think the main board that comes with the Ender 3 has them, but (in case I am mistaken) it could be worth checking that you did not forget to put any jumpers in place.
To fix the problem you could also reduce the steps/mm from 80 to 5 but operating in full step mode would seriously degrade print quality, so it is preferrable to find the root cause.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, x-axis
--- |
thread-16514 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16514 | Dual extruder does support/secondary extruder stay hot during entire print? | 2021-06-12T04:41:03.403 | # Question
Title: Dual extruder does support/secondary extruder stay hot during entire print?
The hot end set-up for my printer consist of 2 Titan Aero extruders. The printer relies on Reprap firmware and a Duet 3 controller board. When I finish setting everything up, my primary extruder will use ABS and my secondary extruder will uses HIPS.
If the model I am printing only has supports near its base, once the supports have been completely printed, will the secondary extruder remain hot/at its printing temperature setpoint until the entire print finishes? Or has this been worked out.
Even more specifically say the HIPS extruder isn't needed for several hours during a print. Will it cool down and begin heating up when its needed or just slightly ahead of time?
I feel like the HIPS filament left over in the extruder would be ruined after this and likely to clog going forward.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Slicer Cura has a standby temperature that is used when the hotend is not in use. Furthermore, you can write your own filament/hotend change scripts to do whatever you want. You can even do a full cool down of a hotend and full warmup when it is needed again. You can also always edit your G-code file after slicing, use a standby temperature for the beginning of the print where supports are used, and manually change the G-code at the last change to disable the HIPS extruder.
---
Tags: reprap, dual-nozzle
--- |
thread-16516 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16516 | How to print Lego bricks? | 2021-06-12T10:10:29.867 | # Question
Title: How to print Lego bricks?
How can I print Lego bricks in order to make them attach?
I need them to be standalone pieces. I use resin to print. My model is Elegoo Mars 3. What resolution should I use?
Also, how should I color the bricks? I have some colored resin at home but I want to make them all black and color them afterward.
# Answer
**You can't print a LEGO<sup>TM</sup> Brick, because you are not Lego System A/S.** The best you can do is print a brick that is *compatible* with LEGO<sup>TM</sup> bricks. Also note that Lego Systems A/S has more than 600 US design patents, which might interfere with the legality of manufacturing bricks in the US.
The original bricks are made from ABS and made with a *very* tight tolerance and uses the inherent flexibility of the material to create a friction fit. However, Resin prints do lack the required mix of sturdyness and flexibility and thus can't create the required friction fit.
In other words: You can't make bricks that are compatible with LEGO<sup>TM</sup> bricks with a resin printer based on the material properties.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, resin, legal, elegoo-mars, bricks
--- |
thread-16518 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16518 | Figure out max bed temperature | 2021-06-13T06:38:59.623 | # Question
Title: Figure out max bed temperature
I have a Tronxy X8 (yes, I know, poor choice but I didn't know better) and after some years printing PLA, PETG and TPU, I am considering trying ABS, since I got myself a second hotend which can go up to 300 °C.
But I am not sure if my bed can handle the required 110 °C.
According to the manufacturer, 110 °C is the maximum on the bed, but they also claim their teflon-lined hotend can go up to 275 °C, so I don't trust their claims at all.
How can I safely determine the maximum temperature that the bed will go?
I have a MOSFET mod for the bed (and also a Bigtreetch SKR v1.1 Mainboard). The only original parts in the chain, which I don't trust, is the PSU and the heatbed.
The bed looks like aluminium, the surface is a Buildtak clone.
What could happen if I just crank up the heat?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The firmware has a fixed limit for the bed, this is also the maximum value you can set through the LCD interface, the default is e.g. set in the configuration file for Marlin, it contains the following constant definition:
```
#define BED_MAXTEMP 150
```
But, you will most properly never reach this value, even worse, most beds won't even reach 110 °C. At some point the losses become too high and the heat input is too low to compensate. This is discussed in a previous question that I will link when found. To mitigate the heat loss, you can insulate the bottom of the heated bed and place the printer in an enclosure, this allows for reaching higher bed temperatures. Printing ABS should preferably be done with an enclosure anyways.
To find out the max temperature, just schedule the bed to go to 140 °C and see where the bed temperature takes you, or where the safety features kick in.
---
Tags: heated-bed, temperature
--- |
thread-4692 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4692 | Nozzle rubs on previous layers | 2017-10-03T04:11:02.003 | # Question
Title: Nozzle rubs on previous layers
I'm having a frustrating problem with my recent built custom 3D printer so every single print I made, from the third layer, the nozzle is "rubbing" on the already placed filament. This results in a complete mess, melting the previous layers with the nozzle / new extrusions coming, getting malformed and out of precision forms, if I leave this happening, my Y-axis motor (bed) start to jump steps (by the force of nozzle friction to cold material). To stop that symptom, at the beginning of this, I have to raise the Z-axis by hand turning about 1/8 rotation of T8 fuse. By doing this, every rest of my printing runs peaceful, nicely, and beautiful.
I'm using Marlin firmware, the most recent version, and Ultimaker Cura. My nozzle size is 0.5 and I'm using Ultimaker Cura's Fine Preset (0.1 mm height)
My stepper motors axis are very well calibrated (X, Y, Z and Extruder). I tried:
* lowering and raising the print bed to get spaced or shrunken first layers to see if something helps,
* tried to change Z home offset on display,
* tried the `M206` command to change the print zone of the Z-axis,
* tried to change the first layer height on Ultimaker Cura,
but nothing seems to solve my problems.
Due to my lack of experience, I don't know what I could try to solve this frustrating issue. I already check and rechecked my mechanical structure and everything was fine solid and very well balanced and square.
From comment:
* Printing speed are 40 mm/s,
* Temps:
* Hotend: 220 °C;
* Hot Bed: 120 °C;
* I have also tried 110 °C,
* My Z-axis uses 800 steps per mm (1/32 micro stepping on DRV8825 at RAMPS).
I'm thinking about over extrusion but I have fine tuned my stepper, checked and rechecked for it and seems normal
# Answer
> 4 votes
I have made some learning on mechanical setup and discovered some issues on my printer, there are few:
1. Bed warped, even with glass (thin thickness), making BAL confused with Z-movement over the bed.
2. Overextrusion making layer oversized in terms of thickness.
3. Some of missing mechanical fine adjustments.
The main reason for this symptom was the overextrusion (that made my X and Y axis jump some steps when hotend collapses in the already-printed materials on their movements).
I hope this helps some of those who have this similar problem!
# Answer
> 3 votes
Your Z axis movement is somehow wrong. You should check steps/mm, z acceleration and speed. Try moving your z 10cm up and use caliper to check if it is correct.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I'm not a 3d printing expert by any means, but I had some funky layer stuff going on before "wrinkled" first layer & gross edges w/overlap. For my printer, the problem was I was over-extruding.
I followed this video by Tom's 3D: 3D printing guides - Calibrating your extruder
For some reason, I had to do it twice before it actually worked. Once I got that calibrated (and fixed an uneven print bed), I was good to go.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The first picture seems to show layer shift. Usual causes include:
1. Missed Z movement, so the nozzle hits the build and the layer is offset.
2. Bad acceleration in X/Y, so there is missed X/Y movement, and the layer is offset.
Adjustment: reduce Z G0 speed, and reduce X/Y speeds (G0 and G1) and acceleration, and then repeat.
Hopefully, correcting this will make the issue in the second picture easier to diagnose.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Does Cura have options for avoiding perimeters during moves? And does it have an option to step up the z axis during non print moves? These were the two issues I was having with the nozzle dragging through the previous layers on my prints. I set the z axis to move up 0.2 mm during non print moves and to avoid Perimeters during non print moves (using Slic3r) which eliminated this issue for me almost entirely.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I just flashed my new Ender 5 with Marlin and I had the same issue. The 2nd and 3rd layers were digging into the previous layers.
I manually lowered the bed by 10 mm via the machine knob and the bed only moved 5.207 mm (I used a dial caliper). I went into the EEPROM and adjusted the steps/mm for the Z from 400 to 769:
* 10 mm /5.207 mm is 1.921
* 400x1.921 is 768.4
* I rounded up to 769
The next test print was a success.
This was an odd thing for me since the test print I did before flashing the firmware was just fine. It only started after I flashed Marlin. This is how I knew that it wasn't the stepper itself, but just a setting.
# Answer
> 1 votes
<sup>Taken from a rejected suggested edit. If the author (Gareth) posts their own answer, this can be deleted, or flagged for deletion</sup>
---
My Ender 3 is not warped in any way but there are several issues I needed to address:
1. Extrusion:
Check your extruder and Z eSteps for accuracy, as detailed in numerous places. Test layer width: print a cube in vase mode (1 shell thick) and measure wall thickness. Adjust extrusion multiplier accordingly.
2. Bed Level:
I was leveling with the '1 sheet of paper' method. I started using two sheets of paper. To compensate for reduced bed adhesion I use hairspray.
3. Mechanical 1:
I found my X carriage was slightly loose: the hotend was pulled upwards or rode upwards during some moves then grinding on subsequent layers.
Test: Grab the rail with your left hand then push with your thumb against the top left roller. If the roller rides up the groove then the carriage is loose.
Fix: The carriage is held firm by an eccentric on the bottom roller. Loosen the bottom wheel bolt, adjust the eccentric nut until the carriage is firm on the rail. Then back off slightly until motion is free. This is best done with the belt loose or disconnected.
4. Mechanical 2: X rail sags on the right.
I found the X rail assembly was not even height across the width. Again, the eccentric roller was loose. Test: Measure rail height on both sides.
Fix: Adjust inside eccentric roller as above.
5. Mechanical 3: Tighten belts.
Obviously, this is brief. Check your manual or YouTube for anything you're unsure of.
---
Tags: print-quality, diy-3d-printer, calibration, z-axis, layer-height
--- |
thread-16522 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16522 | Can't find replacement nozzle tube | 2021-06-13T22:02:58.153 | # Question
Title: Can't find replacement nozzle tube
I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus.
It recently started having issues printing. It turns out that the small plastic tube that feeds the extruder with filament was completely clogged. I couldn't get any of the filament out so I need a new feeder tube. I can't find one specifically for this printer anywhere. Does anyone have any ideas?
# Answer
This printer is using a so-called MK 10 extruder/hotend. These are a little different, there is a liner for the heat break that continues all the way down to inside the MK 10 nozzle:
This PTFE tubular liner has an outer dimension of 4 mm and an inner diameter of 2 mm. The length of the tube is 34 mm. These tubes can be bought at pre-cut size or, more economical, bought per meter.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: monoprice-maker-select
--- |
thread-16526 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16526 | Is there anyone now permanently living in 3D-printed houses or buildings? | 2021-06-14T16:48:27.027 | # Question
Title: Is there anyone now permanently living in 3D-printed houses or buildings?
Are the following statements still true, or are they now out of date?
> \[3D printed architecture\] The problem is this: No one has been able to successfully take the leap from printing a fancy art pavilion to printing a functional building, and it’s still not clear if the technology is going to save the world or be another decorative footnote of architectural history.
WinSun
> For whatever reason, the only printed buildings that look remotely habitable have been built by Chinese companies. But just because they look habitable doesn’t mean that they are. No one lives in these houses, and when you get close enough, they don’t really look like the kind of place you’d want to live, unless you have a thing for creepy-cave chic. (Both from https://architizer.com/blog/practice/details/3d-printed-buildings-future-or-gimmick/)
I'm not wanting to argue about the architectural concern for appearance. As an engineer my concern is with structural integrity and reliability. However, are people living in 3D houses? That is the common concern.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Apparently the article in the question is out of date:
Here's a family in France living in a 3D-printed house (95 sq.m. 1022 sq.ft.) since 2018:
"The world's first family to live in a 3D-printed home" By Michael Cowan
BBC's Victoria Derbyshire programme
Published6 **July 2018**
https://www.bbc.com/news/technology-44709534
They essentially 3D-printed the form to poor the concrete in the house in France. The form was insulation and stayed in place. This many be an easier way to meet building codes.
And it looks like the market is picking up right now. A year ago in Austin, a 400 sq.ft (37 sq.m.) home is very small for a family and doesn't compete with the traditional housing market. However, the house in Austin shown in the picture looks huge.
REAL ESTATE: "3D-printed housing developments suddenly take off – here’s what they look like"
PUBLISHED FRI, **MAR 12 2021** 3:36 PM ESTUPDATED MON, MAR 22 202111:53 AM EDT
https://www.cnbc.com/2021/03/12/3d-printed-housing-developments-suddenly-take-off-heres-what-they-look-like.html
Here's another link of someone building 3D printed houses for public sales:
https://www.iconbuild.com/updates/icon-delivers-series-of-3d-printed-homes-for-homeless
A Rising Trend: 7 Biggest Companies Building 3D Printed Houses:
https://all3dp.com/2/2019-best-companies-building-3d-printed-houses/
---
Tags: 3d-design
--- |
thread-14167 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14167 | PETG warping - adhesion or temperature too high? | 2020-08-02T15:20:15.467 | # Question
Title: PETG warping - adhesion or temperature too high?
Ender3 v2, SIENOC PETG which advises temperature of 230-250 °C on the box. I'm printing on top of cleaned blue tape, using a temperature of 230 °C for the nozzle and 80 °C for the bed.
I've had all sorts of trouble getting first layer to stick but finally managed it. However the thin end of this hook has now warped and the other end is too.
Looking at the image above, you can see it's much thinner at that end. Should I try a lower nozzle temperature? Or bed? Or both?
The fans are at 50 % (set in Cura), should I have left them on 100 %?
---
I have to mention that the tape has been cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. I can print PLA no problem direct to the bed but am having so much trouble with PETG - rather than warping this could actually be adhesion problems. I've tried a higher initial layer (0.3 mm vs 0.2 mm), 0.1 mm Z offset, gapped to 1 sheet of paper as per PLA, then 2 sheets - I've done that 50 mm in on each corner and then checked it in the middle of the bed too. Initial layer is at 10 mm/s and then to 40 mm/s
As you can see in the picture the brim looks rather flattened, but if I give more gap (e.g. 3 sheets) it doesn't even stick at all.
I have managed to print a benchy after maybe 6 attempts, but this was luck and had really poor adhesion, a gentle tap with my finger dislodged it. The actual print was fine.
Tempted to try another PETG but wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious - at the moment I can't even print the brim again because it won't stick.
I'm really confused because a lot of I read suggests PETG sticks really well but I've having the exact opposite experience.
# Answer
PETG is a pain to print with, but adhesion/warping usually isn't the issue.
To begin with, fan should be completely off for PETG unless you hit problems that necessitate a fan, and then only minimal. Certainly not 50% or 100%. Fan will seriously impact adhesion between layers and give you brittle prints. It also might be responsible for the warping you're seeing, but the biggest issue here is that you have an adhesion problem.
I'm not sure if blue tape is generally recommended for PETG. The Buildtak clone that came with my (original, not v2) Ender 3 adheres extremely well (if anything, too well) with PETG so I've never worried about adhesion with it. But if it's not adhering to your blue tape or v2 coated-glass bed (or if you're concerned about ruining that bed from PETG adhering too well) you need to find something it will adhere to. I'd suggest getting a Buildtak-clone Ender 3 v1 bed surface (you can find these cheap) and clipping it to your bed (since you presumably don't want to glue it over the v2's much nicer bed).
I guess I should mention that distance to build surface could also be the issue. Make sure the bed is leveled correctly. I don't like the paper method because it's too imprecise; the best way I've found is to move the Z axis to 0.1 mm and adjust until 0.1 mm feeler gauges fit under it with some friction and 0.15 mm ones don't fit at all.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I find bed adhesion is fine with blue tape at 70 °C. PETG doesn't like to be squished onto the bed like PLA, so try using something like a business card to level the bed.
Try printing with a brim (I believe what you used in the picture is a skirt; you want the one that is attached to the part) and start with no cooling. Ramp up cooling to the minimum you need for good print quality.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The proper way to optimise bed temperature (which depends on material, sometimes brand, bed material) is to follow these instructions which basically consist in:
* print a wedge multiple times changing only the bed temperature
* pick the temperature where the adhesion is the best.
Typically PETG works with 50-70 °C bed temperature. 80 °C is likely too high (unless the surface of your bed is much colder than the temperature sensor) because PETG is floppy (soft) at that temperature, and the first layer should be rigid enough to stay flat after the upper layer will pull up (as explained here).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: adhesion, petg, warping
--- |
thread-1130 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1130 | What is causing these artifacts when the extruder moves in one direction? | 2016-05-09T02:30:57.717 | # Question
Title: What is causing these artifacts when the extruder moves in one direction?
I have a Prusa i3 that I am mostly happy with. However, I am seeing these strange artifacts when the extruder moves along one axis in one direction - in particular from the back of the printer towards the front. The extruded lines look uneven and the surface is quite rough, but only in that area and only while the extruder moves in that direction.
Here is a recent print that shows this happen. The pieces were printed side by side, and both of them show this on the left hand side, while the right is okay.
I am thinking maybe the extruder tip is slanted (not perpendicular to the bed), which causes some sort of scraping while extruding? What do you think?
# Answer
In case of such difference in printing in different directions you can check if;
1. for x and partially z axis
* filament is blocked and cannot be pulled as it should
* spool is blocked
2. for x and y axis
* rods on which caret/HB is sliding are parallel
* timing belt idlers are parallel and they are in a line
Shape of the nozzle or its perpendicularity should not be the case as it's hot and it wipes layer itself.
You can also check if it's not an issue of cooling fan. It can vibrate as such.
Eventually it could be an issue of cooling itself. Let's assume you have cooling fan at the back and it pushes air to the front then when caret moves from the front to the back then cooling time is longer than when the fan goes in opposite direction.
> 3 votes
# Answer
In my case, there were some artifacts only on the right side, and the problem was that the screw was partly out of the pulley under the bed. I would suggest moving the bed to the back and checking the pulley. You might also consider cleaning and lubricating the rods, which is what I was doing when I discovered it.
Here is an example of the bumps when the pulley was loose (using TPU):
> 1 votes
---
Tags: extruder, prusa-i3, print-quality
--- |
thread-16533 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16533 | Filament getting stuck/nozzle is clogged | 2021-06-15T18:30:41.273 | # Question
Title: Filament getting stuck/nozzle is clogged
For some reason on my Raise 3D N2 plus with a Bondtech-Extruder I am sometimes seeing filament jams and sometimes it prints without any issues. I am using PLA at 215 °C.
When the filament is jammed I have to pull it out, remove the tip, and then I can load again and everything works perfectly fine again. I have attached a picture of what I pull out of the extruder each time. It looks like the bottom part is some kind of skin of the filament.
It's hard to see but the tip of the filament is a little thicker, so it's possible that this can't be pushed into the extruder, but why would it build up there? I am using 3 mm retract, could that be the issue? Or is my extruder not hot enough?
# Answer
1. Heat creep can cause the filament to jam. The thicker end on a Bowden tube extruder matches heat creep. However, since lowering the extrusion temperature didn't help, it does not look like heat creep.
2. Retracting too far can cause the filament to jam trying to go forward again. Have you tried less retraction?
3. PETG can jam if you print too fast. I'm unaware of this problem with PLA. However, this problem gets worse with lower extrusion temperature.
4. What is missing in the images for a direct drive extruder is any sign of the drive gear engaging the filament. There are no teeth marks where the gear pushes the filament and no notch in the filament where the gear turns but doesn't move the filament. Is your filament drive gear too loose against the filament to keep pushing it through the nozzle?
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament-jam
--- |
thread-16536 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16536 | Help printing in ABS | 2021-06-15T21:15:23.583 | # Question
Title: Help printing in ABS
My first attempt to print in ABS has been an unmitigated disaster, and I could do with some advice before I try again.
I've been trying to print a Bean Hopper Extension for Melitta Barista TS Smart coffee machine, but every time the layers separate, usually at or near a corner.
My first attempt had it lifting from the bed before a few layers had completed. When I tried it with a thin brim on the outside, it stuck down for a while, but eventually started lifting away from the bed. When I tried it with a raft, it got further, but then the print detached itself from the raft at one corner. My final attempt used a wider brim on both inside and outside, and it managed to get even further through the print. None of the brim had detached from the bed, but then I noticed layers higher up pulling apart, and when I eventually cancelled the print, I saw it had started separating earlier and managed to recover in later layers.
At this point I gave up and printed it in PLA, first time, but I would like to understand what I can do to improve my chances of printing this next time.
Also, I plan to redesign this with the outer wall extending straight up to the level of the bottom of the notch, with a flat top in which I intend to add a channel for a rubber seal. Will widening of part of the model cause more problems for an ABS print, or will it help strengthen it and prevent it separating as before?
<sup>I'm using an Ender 3 V2 with a heated bed, using Prit-stik as my bed glue.</sup>
# Answer
> 6 votes
First of all, the bed should be at 100-110 °C and fan 0 %.
I had *incredibly* good results by using a (sacrificial) "draft shield" as shown below together with a large brim (10 mm). It creates a warmer micro-climate which keeps the print a bit warmer, with much less warping. My printer bed back then was 130x130 mm, therefore drafts were strong. You will get even better results, you have about 200x200 mm.
If you were able to add something like this, it would be even better:
You can get it by designing in Fusion 360 or anything else a "U" shaped part, which you will add twice to each print and scale accordingly.
The reason is that the normal draft shield will deform a lot and detach from the print bed at least in part, resulting in an opening at the bottom and a chimney effect which reduces the effectiveness of the shield. With the two U parts, it won't happen as easy.
The draft shield is the first thing to try.
You can also add a "shield" out of cardboard around the printer. You don't need to close the top, it will work quite good.
You can also get 2-4 20-40 W halogen lamps (from a car, for example, they run already at 12 V, but don't connect them to the same power supply as the printer!) and point them at the part. If you have two, mount them at the two sides of the horizontal gantry: they don't need to move horizontally, only vertically. They will keep the part quite warm without the need of an enclosure (but it would help). If you have 4 mount them maybe at the corners of the bed, hoping the shaking won't kill them too quickly.
The solutions I listed so far result in better prints, but also in **stronger** prints because they reduce the causes for warping. The halogen lamps, in particular, keep the printed part quite hot and do wonders.
Another solution which is the easiest and which works extremely well but which weakens the print because it only hides the warping is to use Dimafix on the bed. The print will stick like there is no tomorrow (bed temperature above 90 °C) but the stresses are still there and the print may split in the middle between layers, if it's tall.
# Answer
> 4 votes
You make no mention of a heated enclosure, so I assume you aren't using one. ABS undergoes significant contraction as it cools down. If you're not using an enclosure, the temperature differences between the heated bed, the cool middle of the print, and the heat of the freshly-printed plastic will cause severe warping.
# Answer
> 3 votes
If you are printing very thin walls, corners can be difficult. Rounding the corners helps. Also, if you can leave the outside square, but round the inside (making the corner slightly thicker), this can help.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, abs, delamination
--- |
thread-16530 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16530 | Why not use high rpm stepper motors with high microstepping with gear reduction in 3D printer? | 2021-06-15T15:16:16.197 | # Question
Title: Why not use high rpm stepper motors with high microstepping with gear reduction in 3D printer?
3D printer use stepper motors for moving print head and extruding filament. They need to have good torque and resolution.
Microstepping improves resolution as much as 32 fold (I think) but reduces torque the higher you microstep.
So...
1. Why not rotate the motor with microstepping at high RPM (which also reduces torque) and increase the torque by heavy gear reduction using a worm gear?
2. Won't the movement of printhead be even smoother and small errors in microstepping and unevenness of gears be averaged out using high RPM and gear reduction approach?
3. Does microstepping indeed provide accurate divisions of steps?
4. Can we get by with weaker motors because torque will be increased by gear reduction?
5. Can we get by with 48 step stepper motors instead of 200 step because gear reduction provides increased resolution?
6. There are extruders that use flex shaft to turn worm gear in direct extruder while motor is mounted on frame which turns flex shaft (zesty nimble comes to mind). Why don't they just use smallest possible stepper motor to rotate worm gear directly, instead?
Increasing motor RPM and using gear reduction should preserve the precision and torque, letting you use weaker, lighter motors, potentially reducing granularity of movement. I thought this was simpler approach and I wanted to understand what would I be losing as trade offs. I had considered more friction at worm gear and wear, higher heating of motor etc. But may be it's like "don't fix what ain't broken". 3D printers aren't that costly nowadays. I just wish they were even cheaper.
# Answer
To answer each point:
* *Microstepping improves resolution as much as 32 fold (I think) but reduces torque the higher you micro-step.*
Torque is not reduced by micro-stepping. Torque reduction only occurs when you are moving at high RPMs. The motor's phase resistance has to be conducive to the target RPM's (or step rate). Further, micro-stepping can go as has as 1/256, and I have personally used 1/128. Some will say that all higher micro-stepping does is improve smoothness not accuracy. I have personally tested 1/128 micro-stepping over a 17-inch long axis. I was able to achieve accuracy and repeatability to within 5 microns.
* *Why not rotate the motor with micro-stepping at high RPM (which also reduces torque) and increase the torque by heavy gear reduction using a worm gear?*
Backlash! The whole point of stepper motors is that they produce backlash-free movement. Putting a transmission between the electromagnetic and the end effector will create backlash that has to be compensated for during the movement. Modern CNC systems account for this in their movement profiles and incorporate automatic backlash compensation (e.g. Mach3)
* *Won't the movement of printhead be even smoother and small errors in microstepping and unevenness of gears be averaged out using high RPM and gear reduction approach?*
It is already smooth enough with 1/64th or greater micro-stepping. The extrusion nozzle only goes down to 2mm.
* *Does microstepping indeed provide accurate divisions of steps?*
Yes. Yes, it does.
* *Can we get by with weaker motors because torque will be increased by gear reduction?*
No, because it will just stall.
* *Can we get by with 48 step stepper motors instead of 200 step because gear reduction provides increased resolution?*
Apart from the fact that no one makes 48 steps per revolution motors, using a gear reduction would be counterintuitive. Currently, there are 400 steps per revolution motors, which actually increase accuracy without any torque losses.
* *There are extruders that use flex shaft to turn worm gear in direct extruder while motor is mounted on frame which turns flex shaft (zesty nimble comes to mind). Why don't they just use smallest possible stepper motor to rotate worm gear directly, instead?*
Torque! If they used a small motor to drive the extruder they would have to compensate for the torque loss with higher power (i.e. voltages). This would lead to cooling issues for that motor.
Bottom line is that if you size the motors and design the system correctly then a transmission is not needed. If you want more torque, get bigger motors. If the gantry needs to be light weight, then use a delta or corexy mechanism.
> 6 votes
# Answer
There's an old rule that says "If the question starts with 'Why don't they,' the answer is most likely 'money.'"
In this case, the issue is the cost of worm gears. Properly mating worm gears are much more expensive to make than common spur gears. That probably accounts for most of it -- not to mention the 200 step motors we see on most FDM printers are a very common item, and the more you make of something the less each one costs.
Beyond that, you can't back-drive most worm gears (especially those with a high reduction ratio). That wouldn't affect an extruder (or would it? I've seen a lot of Things for knobs to go on the extruder motor shaft), but if I couldn't back-drive my X or Y axes I'd be very annoyed (having to use the manual motion control in the firmware for everything like bed tramming) -- even the lead screw Z axis can be back-driven without undue effort.
So, bottom line, what we have now works well enough and making it (maybe a very little bit) better would cost more than what we gain would be worth. IMO.
> 2 votes
# Answer
> 6. There are extruders that use flex shaft to turn worm gear in direct extruder while motor is mounted on frame which turns flex shaft (zesty nimble comes to mind). Why don't they just use smallest possible stepper motor to rotate worm gear directly, instead?
The Flex3Drive, from which the Zesty was purportedly cloned, **does** admit using a very small NEMA-8 motor directly coupled to the worm gear in place of a flex shaft. This still adds a considerable (from the standpoint of machines aiming for 40 m/s² acceleration and such) amount of mass to the toolhead, and I'm not clear what E-axis speed/acceleration is attainable with 40:1 reduction and a low-power motor like that.
While the larger steppers typically used in 3D printers are perfectly capable of any plausible E-axis speed or acceleration you could want without gearing or with small reduction (e.g. 2:1 or 3:1), once you get up to worm gear level ratios, it's a question of the properties of your specific motor whether you can get enough speed for acceptable retraction performance or even normal print moves at very high speeds. For example, I have a Flex3Drive G5 and the orignal NEMA-17 E-stepper from my Ender 3 does not work well with it without further gearing on the motor side of the shaft. However, a "high RPM stepper" like you suggest should manage just fine with worm gear reduction.
Now, is there any reason to do this? If you're transmitting the force in a manner that can't deal with high torque, like a flex shaft, yes. Otherwise, no. As others have said, modern microstepping is ridiculously accurate.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, delta, microstepping
--- |
thread-16545 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16545 | Ender 3 power problems, under-extrusion missing steps | 2021-06-17T02:46:53.913 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 power problems, under-extrusion missing steps
My Ender 3 has started having problems printing. It does not seem to be getting enough power. I have cleaned the hot end, checked the PTFE tube seat, replaced nozzles.
It is missing steps on the extruder motor. I increased `vref` for the E-axis first to 0.9, then 1.0, then 1.2. The extruder works properly, but now it is missing steps on the X-axis.
# Answer
> 4 votes
This is a common issue, there are a number of problems that could cause an extruder motor on the Ender 3 to skip steps besides the stepper needing an increase in current. If the extruder motor is missing steps--which usually results in a periodic clicking noise--this is likely due to one of the following common problems.
1. Nozzle is too close to bed
2. Print temperature is too low for a particular filament
3. Nozzle clog
4. Filament "clog" in the hot-end gap between Bowden tubing and nozzle
5. Extruder stepper motor is undercurrent
To quickly and effectively diagnose each of the problems above:
\[1, 2\]. Move the nozzle away from the bed ~(+20 mm Z) so that the nozzle is a good distance away and extrude 25 mm of filament. If the clicking stops and the extruder stepper is working properly, you know that the nozzle is too close to the bed and you should re-level the bed. If the clicking/missing steps persist, you should increase the temperature of the hotend to the upper bound of the recommended temperature for the filament (ie. for Hatchbox PLA temp. range on label is: 180 °C - 210 °C). Extrude 25 mm of filament again and observe extruder motor as above.
\[3, 4\]. If the extruder motor is still missing steps, you are going to need to inspect the nozzle and hotend assembly in greater depth. You should remove the nozzle like this. See if you can clean it out or replace it if it is clogged (might be best to replace it if you have extra nozzles either way). Check to see if this fixes the extruder motor problem by extruding filament with the hotend sufficiently far away from the bed as in steps (1), (2) above. If this still doesn't solve the issue, the most likely problem is (4) a gap of space in the hotend between the nozzle and Bowden tube getting filled with molten plastic. To fix this, remove the nozzle and disconnect the PTFE tubing. Slide the end of the PTFE tubing through the hot end and wipe off the end of the PTFE tubing with a paper towel to clear out all of the gunk before you pull it back through the hotend. Check the last few mm of the tubing for any gunk and if necessary cut the last few mm of the tubing (ideally using tube cutters) or replace the tube with Capricorn PTFE tubing. Tighten the nozzle to "finger-tight" ie. the tightest you can before you must use the wrench and spanner, then loosen the nozzle ONE FULL REVOLUTION. Now push the Bowden tubing down very hard so that is flush up against the nozzle. Now, properly re-tighten the nozzle all the way. This ensures there is a tight fit between the nozzle and the end of the tubing that prevents this gap from arising. If this is the issue, you may also want to look into replacing the Bowden tube coupler at the top of the hot-end assembly (the stock ones that come with the Ender 3 are cheap and often the root of issues). This entire problem and fix is extensively covered here
\[5\] The issue the OP suggested is not the definite cause of this issue and as such, it should be checked last as it is a "catch-all" solution which is less likely than 1-4. I would only increase the extruder stepper current as a last resort (assuming your Ender 3 has already been properly calibrated and functioning in the past). As the OP suggested, you would increase the current for the extruder stepper by using the `vref` potentiometer on the main control board like this.
The list above contains *common/likely* potential issues and best practices to troubleshoot them, not an exhaustive manual of possible reasons why the extruder motor is skipping steps or under-extrusion is occurring.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, underextrusion
--- |
thread-16546 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16546 | Need accurate 90º angle with respect to the table | 2021-06-17T07:58:54.987 | # Question
Title: Need accurate 90º angle with respect to the table
I have a Tevo Flash. Normally, I don't care about perpendicularity with respect to the table. But now I have a 5" disc on a ball bearing, held by a 3D printed tube with a flat bottom. If the tube's axis is not 100 % perpendicular to the bottom, the disc, when spun, wobbles at the edge: ~1/8".
As a test, I printed a vertical sample tube. I took close-up pics, on the printer's table, next to a carpenter's square. Down the table's Y axis, there's a vert. deviation of ~1 mm over 45 mm of height, between the sample tube and the square. Down the X-axis, the deviation is small.
How do I deal with it? Can a slicer (I have Simplify3D) compensate for it? I could gently "skew" the geo in 3D modeling software, but it seems inelegant.
Note: this has nothing to do with bed leveling. The bed is level, the printer has a BLTouch. The first layers look great. The problem is above the bed. The right angles of the aluminum-extrusion frame aren't 100 % exact. Measured with the carpenter's square, the vertical columns of the frame (Z) deviate 1-2 mm over 100 mm from perpendicular, with respect to the bottom frame (X-Y). Trying to fix the whole frame would be hard.
EDIT: I used a 0.127 mm shim (from a sacrificial steel gauge blade), it fixed most of it. With the printer laid horizontally (so I could work with the screws underneath) and the shim in, the vertical posts were 100% true (see pic). When I put the printer back into its vertical, working position, the posts tilted back a bit. I'll try a 0.15 mm shim.
# Answer
In answer to *(doesn't have to the issue of the OP, but as a reaction for other readers)*:
> Note: this has nothing to do with bed leveling. The bed is level, the printer has a BLTouch.
Having a BLTouch doesn't imply the bed is level! The bed is level when the nozzle moves in the same plane parallel to the bed, the bed shape is compensated for by the BLTouch, it can be very skew and still it will print.
> The right angles of the aluminum-extrusion frame aren't 100 % exact.
That is a problem, the frame needs to be square. I don't think that it is a major operation to modify that, you can use some support struts, I've done that for a 2040 aluminum extrusion i3 clone.
Note, this is a portal style printer driven by a single Z lead screw (and a roller mount on the other Z post) as far as can be seen from the manufacturer photographs. *(Update, the OP has a dual screw Z portal, so this possibly is not applicable to that specific version)* Single Z screw portal printer types are also prone to unlevel over height, be sure the rollers of the nozzle carrier and the opposite Z post rollers are correctly functioning.
Although fixing the hardware is the preferred option, there is an alternative, you can solve this in firmware like e.g. Marlin.
You need to make some test prints and fill out the correct values to correct for the skewness, but this may be limited to overall Z skewness, not individual skew Z posts.
E.g. in Marlin, the configuration file can be used to compensate the skewness problem:
```
/**
* Bed Skew Compensation
*
* This feature corrects for misalignment in the XYZ axes.
*
* Take the following steps to get the bed skew in the XY plane:
* 1. Print a test square (e.g., https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563185)
* 2. For XY_DIAG_AC measure the diagonal A to C
* 3. For XY_DIAG_BD measure the diagonal B to D
* 4. For XY_SIDE_AD measure the edge A to D
*
* Marlin automatically computes skew factors from these measurements.
* Skew factors may also be computed and set manually:
*
* - Compute AB : SQRT(2*AC*AC+2*BD*BD-4*AD*AD)/2
* - XY_SKEW_FACTOR : TAN(PI/2-ACOS((AC*AC-AB*AB-AD*AD)/(2*AB*AD)))
*
* If desired, follow the same procedure for XZ and YZ.
* Use these diagrams for reference:
*
* Y Z Z
* ^ B-------C ^ B-------C ^ B-------C
* | / / | / / | / /
* | / / | / / | / /
* | A-------D | A-------D | A-------D
* +-------------->X +-------------->X +-------------->Y
* XY_SKEW_FACTOR XZ_SKEW_FACTOR YZ_SKEW_FACTOR
*/
//#define SKEW_CORRECTION
```
But, this requires a new firmware installation, the reader should investigate whether this is within the capabilities of the reader.
> 5 votes
# Answer
If you've measured the frame and it's not square, that's almost surely your problem and you need to fix it. But having a BLtouch does not mean your bed is level. The effect you're seeing is exactly what you get from using a BLtouch and mesh leveling to compensate for a non-level bed, and it's a very bad thing and why these fake leveling systems are band-aids to make it easier to get started printing something minimally viable, not something that gives you a working, precise printer. The bed needs to be physically square with the Z axis.
> 0 votes
# Answer
The vertical axis of your print is determined by the machine's Z axis, not by the "bed level" compensation of a BL Touch or similar bed error compensation system.
When you print after BL Touch measures the bed height, the firmware moves the Z axis up and down to compensate for errors in the bed (including non-planar bed surface, which is its main utility) -- but as you print and the hotend moves up layer by layer, the movement is determined by the Z axis -- with a common gantry type printer, this is set by the vertical frame. If that frame isn't perpendicular to the X and Y axes, the verticals of the print won't be, either.
To correct your Y axis tilt, you need to correct your vertical frame tilt. The simplest way to do this is likely to be installing an adjustable frame brace system (you can print all the parts except for a couple threaded rods). That will let you make a precise adjustment, print another test like the one in the question, and verify that it's accurate, before printing your "disk on a donut" actual part.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, tevo-tarantula, dimensional-accuracy
--- |
thread-16547 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16547 | E3D Clone heatbreak / nozzle leak issue | 2021-06-17T09:41:23.127 | # Question
Title: E3D Clone heatbreak / nozzle leak issue
I've built a custom machine based on the AM8 (Anet A8 upgrade). I've got an E3D V6 clone hotend in, seems like a decent clone. I've replaced the heat break, heat block, and nozzle several times but after a given period it seems like filament leaks up the heat break. The heat break and nozzle are "all-metal" titanium versions.
How I set it up: I insert the nozzle all the way into heat block, I unscrew it about 3/4 of a turn. I insert the heat break until it makes contact. I then tighten using pliers and spanner. I assemble onto the printer. I heat until 285 °C, give it a few minutes, tighten as much as I think I can before something would break. I let it cool down. I heat again to 285 °C, tighten again as much as I can. Cool down. Then ready for printing (mainly using PETG at 240 °C).
What am I doing wrong? What should I be doing differently?
# Answer
## How does this happen?
For melted filament to leak around the heat break threads, it has to first get through the metal-to-metal machined surface joint where the heat break contacts the nozzle. Given this keeps happening, the problem must be a systematic error of some kind.
#### Thermal Cycling
Based on your description of your installation procedure (heat to 285 °C, tighten, cool, reheat to 285 °C, retighten, cool, print at 240 °C) I see a potential issue: titanium is subject to brittle fracture. Your titanium hot end and nozzle, together, are being overstressed with the combination of heating well beyond print temperature, overtightening, and cooling (the aluminum heat block has a much high expansion coefficient than titanium).
#### Suggestion
What I'd recommend is to change to a brass nozzle or, if you need to print with abrasive filament, hardened steel, and a 304 or 316 stainless heat break. The steel or brass nozzles will cost less than titanium and do at least as good a job (brass is best for thermal transfer to the filament, though it has limited wear life), while stainless steel for the heat break will have similar or lower thermal conductivity and is less brittle. As a bonus, with your tightening routine, the brass nozzle material will deform when it is compressed against the stainless heat break and act as a gasket, rather than fracturing after a few heat/cool cycles.
#### An Additional Concern
While answering comments, I was reminded of another possible issue: the same reason aluminum wiring is no longer used for in-wall home electrical installations. Aluminum tends to deform permanently after heat expansion under constraint, rather than recovering its original shape (as copper and brass will do), and expands several times as much per degree as titanium does. Even if the heat block is an alloy rather than conductor grade pure aluminum, this will occur (though most alloys are significantly harder/stronger than pure metal) with the heat, tighten, cool process. Also, 280 °C may be hot enough for aluminum to undergo heat creep (a slow, permanent deformation under stress normally well below the yield point). The rule I recall from material science courses in college, almost forty years ago, is that creep becomes an issue when the absolute temperature is more than about half the melting point, for most metals, and pure aluminum melts at about 933 °K while you're printing at 553 °K (by comparison, 70/30 brass, as used for firearm cartridges, has a solidus -- the lower melting point of a two-component alloy -- of about 1183 °K.
This permanent deformation of the aluminum heat block at the threads may result in the threads becoming loose, thus allowing extrusion pressure to force molten filament between the heat block and heat break. That layer of filament material then acts as an insulator, increasing the temperature differential between the heat block and heat break -- and with the heat break now running cooler, the gap opens further.
#### A Suggested Solution
One solution to this would be to switch to a brass or copper heat block. Not only do these metals have a higher melting point than most aluminum alloys, making them less prone to creep at printing temperatures, but they have much more tendency to return to original dimension after a heat/cool cycle when constrained (which is why copper house wires don't become loose over time the way aluminum ones do). The change in mass and conductivity might make it desirable to recalibrate the temperature control PID, if present, but this is a one-time operation, compared to having to disassemble and clean the heat block and heat break periodically due to leaks.
> 4 votes
# Answer
1. Verification: When you tighten the nozzle against the heat break, the nozzle is not tightened completely against the heater block. If the nozzle tightens completely against the heater block, it will not finish tightening against the heat break.
Note: the heat break is thin between the heater block and heat sink to minimize conduction of heat. Over-tightening the heat break into the heat sink with break the heat break.
2. Verification: your heat break is all metal (no Teflon tube in the filament path). If it's not all metal, 285 °C may be damaging the Teflon tube. If not all metal, tighten the nozzle to the heat break at 250 °C, which is the limiting temperature for an extuder that isn't all metal.
3. The titanium heat break has higher thermal resistance, which helps to isolate the heat break from the heater block. However, higher thermal resistance is a disadvantage for the nozzle, where you want the heat. For non-abrasive filaments, such as PETG, a brass nozzle is easier to get a good seal as well was better heat conduction. PETG is particularly sensitive to jamming from not adequately heating up when printing too fast. While the nozzle heats the filament, the filament cools the tip. Thus, you will need to print slower with a titanium nozzle.
4. From the information so far, it appears to be difficulty get a seal between to titanium pieces. It seams like they could use a different titanium alloy. Titanium glasses frames are flexible, not brittle. However, brittle alloys are usually harder, but the heat break doesn't need to be hard like the nozzle. Of course, brass is easier to get a seal because it actually deforms to fit shape of heat break.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: hotend, e3d-v6, all-metal-hotend
--- |
thread-16544 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16544 | CoreXY limit switch locations | 2021-06-17T02:16:07.533 | # Question
Title: CoreXY limit switch locations
I am trying to set up RepRap firmware for a CoreXY shown below. There are 4 limit switches in the top plane and one for the Z-axis.
I believe that LS1 & 2 are considered for the X-axis and LS3 & 4 are for the Y-axis. My question is do I need all of these switches? Is it even possible to program this many in the firmware?
# Answer
> 1 votes
> LS1 & 2 are considered for the X-axis
Yes, these correspond to X-max and X-min, respectfully.
> LS3 & 4 are for the Y-axis
Yes, these correspond to Y-min and Y-max, respectfully.
> do I need all of these switches?
Technically, no, you need one switch for each axis (if homing is used), but it can be saving your printer when somehow a layer shift has occurred which forces the head to move outside the bed dimensions.
Note that you even can use zero switches, but then you would need to position the print head yourself before each print and condition the G-code with a starting position, this is seen in some CNC machines.
It is a good idea to use min and max switches, but not necessary. *(My CoreXY printer doesn't have the Y-max endstop as there was a little too less space to place it, restricting Y bed size...)*
> Is it even possible to program this many in the firmware?
Yes, firmwares allow for min and max switches, sometimes even multiple min or max switches for a single axis. The problem is whether your controller board has enough pins exposed and connectors added on the circuit board. But, min and max switches for X, Y and Z axis are not uncommon anymore, look at the specs of the controller board.
---
Tags: corexy
--- |
thread-16552 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16552 | Lowest temperature PLA pulley print will withstand | 2021-06-17T13:51:05.610 | # Question
Title: Lowest temperature PLA pulley print will withstand
I am looking to print an HTD Timing Belt pulley to be used in a laboratory setting that can get *very* cold for extended periods of time. By "very cold" I mean adjacent metal chambers get cooled with liquid nitrogen to lower than -200 °C. For the purposes of having a threshold temperature tolerance, assume that the metal chambers coming directly in contact with the pulley may get as cold as mK close to absolute zero.
While it was my intention to print this pulley out of PLA, I am unsure whether or not it will be able to withstand negative temperatures of this magnitude or if it will become brittle--or something else will happen to the structure of the print when it experiences these temperatures. I am open to printing any other material if there are some materials that will hold up better than PLA for low temperatures. It is preferable for me to print this part instead of machine it for the sake of a deadline. I was also wondering if there is some infill pattern, infill density, or other structural print parameters that would help reinforce a printed part against becoming brittle when imposed to such low temperatures.
# Answer
I found this article which seems to suggest PTFE is a good choice of plastic for a cryogenic environment. I've read that there are PTFE filaments available for FDM printers, though there are some caveats. First, you will need an all-metal hot end; enough heat to melt a PTFE filament will melt the PTFE filament guide if it is in contact with the nozzle. Second, you will likely need to edit your printer's firmware to permit printing at the high temperatures required. Third, it may require some testing to determine whether FDM printed PTFE will meet your mechanical needs (shear strength, layer adhesion, etc.) and fourth, you might need an unusual build surface, since the polymers used for many existing surfaces can't take the temperatures needed for bed adhesion.
Finally, as with a PTFE guide tube in contact with the nozzle, at the temperatures required you need to be aware of and take precautions against outgassing by the melting PTFE.
> 1 votes
# Answer
You could try PETG. PETG labware works down to -70, and there is a video clip where a PET bottle filled with liquid nitrogen that withstands appreciable pressure. But for whichever material is used, thermal cycling may be a problem.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament, filament-choice, temperature
--- |
thread-11176 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11176 | Bumpy first layer with PETG | 2019-10-15T11:26:28.527 | # Question
Title: Bumpy first layer with PETG
When I print with PLA, I get a perfect first layer.
However, when I print with PETG, the first layer looks like this:
I've read all the info that suggests reducing the temp, speed, and increasing retraction... I've done all that which has improved things a lot, but I still get this... I can't seem to work out what's causing it.
How do I get a perfect first layer with PETG?
The latest settings that I've tried, and produced what you see in the picture are, using Cura 4.3 standard Dynamic Quality 0.16 mm profile with these tweaks:
* Temp: 220 °C
* Bed: 65 °C
* Retraction Distance: 10 mm (not that this would have any bearing on this flat first layer)
* Print Speed: 40 mm/s
One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?
# Answer
> 5 votes
> One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?
Short answer: "Yes, for some it does".
---
The results from your image are typically seen when the initial layer height for PETG is too small. PETG likes an additional gap on top of the usual that is used to print e.g. PLA.
For me personally I don't experience this general consensus (I've printed kilometers of PETG filament at 0.2 mm initial layer height at a glass bed with 3DLAC spray without any problems), but it is well known that if you print PETG (and if you experience problems) you need to increase the gap between the nozzle and the bed. From "PETG Filament - Overview, Step-by-Step Settings & Problems Resolved" posted on rigid.ink, you see that they (usually) advise an additional 0.02 - 0.05 mm gap:
Bottom line, if the normal gap doesn't work for you, increase the gap to see if that works better. Note that in some slicers you can add an offset in the slicer so that you do not have to do the releveling with a thicker paper (or if you are using auto-levelling). E.g. in Ultimaker Cura you can download a plugin (for recent Cura versions from the marketplace) from user fieldOfView called "Z Offset Setting" to get the `Z Offset` setting in the `Build Plate Adhesion` section. You can also do a little trick in the G-code by redefining the height so that you can put this in a PETG start G-code or something.
# Answer
> 0 votes
When I print with PETG, my bed is 80 °C for first 2 layers then I drop it to 65 °C
Extruder temp first two layers 240-250 °C and then drop to 225-230 °C.
---
Tags: petg
--- |
thread-16562 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16562 | Friction between nozzle material and abrasive filaments | 2021-06-18T14:24:48.220 | # Question
Title: Friction between nozzle material and abrasive filaments
Usually the hardness of the material is considered primary for nozzles used with abrasive filaments. Has friction between between nozzle material and abrasive filaments been considered? It seems that friction as well as hardness would play a roll in how long the nozzle lasts. Perhaps, this is considered with ruby tipped nozzles.
# Answer
Yes, Friction between nozzles and the material plays a part in the printing process. Eventually, the nozzle diameter will widen if the printer is using an abrasive filament that is using things like carbon fibre or iron. The ruby nozzle is essentially a catch-all that won't wear out no matter the filament you buy. However, the steel nozzle is good enough when it comes to most abrasive filaments; and it has the added bonus of insulating the molten filament from the outside air much better than the much more thermally conductive brass nozzles.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Friction is known to differ and it has been considered at least in some products: here Micro-Swiss sells a plated nozzle with reduced friction and increased hardness.
It is not clear from any known measurement whether the friction plays any role in the print performances, since so far lower friction coatings (Nickel) are also harder, therefore you never know whether the increased lifespan is due to the reduced friction or the harder coating.
Also, I am not aware of any test where a lower friction nozzle results in higher flow rate and print speed. I am only aware of a diamond-filled PLA which claims higher printing speed, confirmed by CNC kitchen (last graph).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: nozzle, filament-choice
--- |
thread-16564 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16564 | Re-doing manual bed leveling | 2021-06-18T14:51:37.793 | # Question
Title: Re-doing manual bed leveling
I have a Ender 5 Pro with a BLTouch auto bed leveler, running TH3D's version of Marlin: TH3D UFW 2.14. During my initial setup several months ago, I naively assumed that the BLTouch didn't need a manually leveled bed so I cranked the manual bed adjustment screws to be as compressed as possible. This has worked pretty well, until recent large prints have shown I need to adjust the back right of the bed as it's too low.
I adjusted all four of the the manual screws to be about halfway so I have room to play but when I run the Level Corners command, the first corner (front-left) is now way too high and the nozzle attempts to move several millimeters past where it should go (the plate moves up until it collides with the nozzle and then continues a few millimeters more...). I have tried poking every setting I can find but I cannot get the printer to reset what it thinks its z-offset should be.
Not sure what my next steps are as resetting bed leveling is not a common task from what I can tell.
# Answer
> 2 votes
A BLTouch doesn't level the bed, it compensates for the geometry and adjusts print head movement, it is always required to tram (level) the bed with respect to the nozzle X-Y plane (of which the Z is perpendicular to this plane). If the build plate is skew, the bottom of the print will be skew, the top will be square with the head movement plane (the default compensation of the BLTouch is smeared out over the first 10 mm of the print, note this can be disabled or height changed).
To properly tram the bed, you need some room for the screws to go up and down. Home the X, home the Y and finally home Z. Then you jog the nozzle down (using a printer interfacing application over USB or the LCD from the printer itself, optionally you can use a console, the latter is very handy for sending G-code commands for the Z-offset determination later) to the bed to fit a sheet of A4 or Us Letter paper (alternatively, use feeler gauges) between the nozzle and the heated bed (pulling the paper should give you a little resistance), de-power the steppers and manually move the print head and bed to reach all corners and adjust the screws to have the nozzle at a paper distance of the bed. Note that if the nozzle will not reach to the bed, Z=0, you need to disable the Z endstop with `M211 S0`, don't forget to enable them after the Z-offset determination `M211 S1`. Do home the printer after each manual movement and screw adjustment as moving it manually may introduce some extra clearance of induced torque on the head. Doing this manually will prevent damaging the bed opposed to moving the head over the build surface using the LCD movement commands (scratching the surface). Manually, you will be able to stop when the nozzle hits the surface, if so adjust corner screw of the corner you are moving to. Repeat this sequence for each corner multiple times until the bed is parallel to the X-Y print head plane. Now you are ready to set Z-offset, which is found in this answer.
---
Tags: bed-leveling, creality-ender-5, th3d
--- |
thread-16569 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16569 | How should I finish a food safe print? | 2021-06-18T20:23:43.510 | # Question
Title: How should I finish a food safe print?
I'd like to print a mouse shell from food safe PLA.
I need it to be food safe, because sweat can dissolve any harmful chemical from it just like foods. I am not sure about how to finish it after sanding the result. I read that people use food safe epoxy to seal it before painting to get a smooth surface. I read that others seal it after painting to cover the paint, which is possibly not food safe.
So I am not sure if I should seal it before or after painting or maybe both? I read that some people use shellac or even nail polish instead of epoxy to get something that they think is food safe. So the entire topic is starting to get somewhat chaotic for me. What materials should I use for sealing and painting and in which order?
# Answer
If you're using food safe PLA, there are no "harmful chemicals" soluble in sweat. The food safety issues that remain are surface imperfections where bacteria or mold may grow. These are almost certainly not an issue unless you're actually eating from the object or otherwise putting it in your mouth/body. People touch similar objects and have them in contact with sweaty hands all the time - athletic equipment, bicycle handlebar grips, steering wheels, etc.
For a user with serious medical issues affecting their immune system, this still may be an issue and you need to follow whatever instructions medical professionals have given about contact with objects that may be contaminated. But otherwise there is no need for any coating for a mouse shell except for aesthetics. You can use whatever you like, but be aware that, unlike PLA, most coatings *do* involve moderate to high levels of VOC (which are ideally down to non-harmful levels after it's finished setting/curing).
> 2 votes
---
Tags: safety, material, food
--- |
thread-5418 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5418 | Glue for attaching PLA pieces to titanium | 2018-02-06T18:00:34.917 | # Question
Title: Glue for attaching PLA pieces to titanium
I'd like to attach a piece I printed out of PLA to a small titanium rod. I've previously used Superglue (cyanoacrylate) to glue PLA pieces to each other with great success, but the problem is that if you don't apply it perfectly cleanly, it leaves very noticeable stains on the PLA.
Can anyone recommend a good glue for this application that won't leave stains like that?
# Answer
I've been a fan of epoxies for unusual adhesion problems. I found on Amazon a product with titanium in the name, but there's a caution regarding polypropylene plastics.
PLA is not of that family of plastic, which gives it a good chance of success. Epoxy is typically more viscous than cyanoacrylates, giving you a bit more control of the application, but also creating the need for care with "ooze-out."
The big glue company, Gorilla, also makes an epoxy that includes plastic and metal in the adhesion listing.
As PLA is somewhat sensitive to heat, one would consider that fast-cure epoxies generate more heat than slow-cure epoxy, but the amounts you'll be using are not likely to create enough for concern.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Try using one of the "gooey" forms of cyanoacrylate. Any of the major brands sells this-- it has the consistency of toothpaste, so it won't "run" along your pieces. Here's one that I've used with success: loctite goo
> 1 votes
# Answer
After perusing http://www.thistothat.com/ I decided to give J-B Weld epoxy a try.
> 1 votes
# Answer
A glue gun would IMO work very well, and you can use transparent (or almost transparent) glue sticks to minimize ugly looking stains.
Things glued together usually break before the glue (in my experience) and it's cheap, you can get one for $10 with some glue sticks. It's fun too, I glue everything since I bought one :-)
> 0 votes
# Answer
Most glues will leave some type of visual stain. The glues that won't leave some type of visual stain probably won't stick as well. For example, you can use rubbery RTV type glues, but you will need surfaces designed to minimize the need for glue strength. However, an advantage is the glue will flex.
My favorite is Gorilla impact resistant superglue. Superglue breaks easily when flexed if not impact resistant. If you want to go to the trouble, epoxies are best. Rubbery type glues will work if you have enough surface area, especially if it is not all planar.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: pla, post-processing
--- |
thread-11178 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11178 | What are the pros and cons of using a BLTouch in place of a limit switch? | 2019-10-15T15:50:15.577 | # Question
Title: What are the pros and cons of using a BLTouch in place of a limit switch?
This is about practicality. I'm hearing that people are using their BLTouch not to adjust the Z offset, but as the limit switch for the machine! Why is this so? What are the pros and cons of using a BLTouch (or any touch sensor for that matter) in lieu of a physical limit switch?
(NB: I'm looking for objective reasons, where no other solution will do as opposed to personal preference reasons where people just like to use it).
# Answer
> 3 votes
Touch sensors (or inductive or capacitive sensors) are generally used to probe the bed to determine the bed shape. For metallic beds that are not perfectly straight this works excellent. But, if your bed is straight and level (e.g. when you are using a straight slate of glass), you do not need to probe the surface as it is level. Instead you can use the probe to determine the Z level.
**Pros** for a limit lever switch are:
* simple and cheap mechanical switch
* no firmware changes necessary
* no or few soldering
* already present on most bought printers
**Cons** for a limit lever switch are:
* needs fine adjustments counter part to work optimally
* something can get in between the lever and counter part
* it doesn't look cool
**Pros** for a more sophisticated sensor:
* it can help with adhesion if the bed surface is deformed or dented
* it looks cool
* everybody is using it so it must be good
**Cons** for a more sophisticated sensor:
* expensive and complicated sensor
* requires firmware changes (e.g. sensor offset value)
* requires soldering, or connecting more cables
* inductive and capacitive sensor work usually better at a higher voltage
* higher chance of malfunctioning (more parts and electronics)
# Answer
> 1 votes
There's cost.
Or it might be fragility -- there is a little overshoot, i.e. the time between when the Z-stop sensor(whatever type) indicates zero is reached and when the stepper motor actually shuts down. The standard lever-switch has plenty of flexibility and "give" but the BL Touch may not, and may be damaged if the gantry tries to move a couple hundred microns past "true" zero before stopping. I would be cautious, depending on your budget, about trying it out.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I *would* use both if I had a choice, but my stock "Melzi" board doesn't have enough inputs as near as I can tell. Most of the (scarce) instructions show to disconnect the Z switch and connect the BL Touch to the digital inputs in place of the switch.
I don't see any other connectors to wire up the EZ Touch to. Maybe the ICSP programmer, but I haven't messed around to see if that would be usable (nothing in the stock CR10 box is connected to it anyway).
So I think it's more of a practical issue that you use one in place of instead of adding.
However, less pedantically, ***why is a BL Touch better than a limit switch***?
Two words: **Auto Leveling**
If you get everything setup right, auto-leveling should be great. I say "Should be" as I still don't quite have the board setup right. It keeps trying to push my nozzle into the PEI sheet, so I really DO wish I had both limit switches and the BL Touch.
Leveling on a hobbyist level 3D printer isn't that hard, but it's time consuming and requires some care. Having to do it every time becomes a colossal pain. So the idea that you could clean off the build plate, hit a button, and have the printer figure out what level was and just start printing is great. Not having prints peel off the plate because you had the gap set wrong, or didn't get the back corner leveled off, or the PEI sheet getting damaged because the nozzle ran into the sheet ... *priceless*.
But hey, if you're using a 3D printer where you'd even think about a BL Touch, you're on the DIY/Maker side, not the "stick in an SD card and hit print" side, so you should be used to figuring out how to wire one in. It's part of the adventure, right?
# Answer
> 0 votes
One other way a bed sensor may be preferable over a common limit switch: it automatically adjusts when you change out the build surface.
Most glass build surfaces are anywhere from three to five millimeters thick, while the surface they replace (texture coated or uncoated fiberglass/resin, magnetic sheet, etc.) are around one to 1.5 mm thick -- that's a enough change in build surface height to be near the limits of the bed adjustment on my Ender 3, for instance.
There are ways to work around this, for instance with spacers that clip onto the bottom of the X gantry to trigger the Z-stop at a higher position -- but if you forget to install the spacer on a build surface change, you may end up scratching the coating on your glass bed (probably a bad thing) by dragging the nozzle across it, as well as potentially damaging the nozzle (cheap, but takes time to replace once you figure out why your prints are suddenly failing). If you're using a bed sensor in place of a limit switch, this oversight can't happen, because the Z homing will automatically detect where to stop regardless what you've mounted on the bed.
---
Tags: z-axis, bltouch, homing
--- |
thread-16571 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16571 | Hotends where heatbreak is not load-bearing? | 2021-06-18T22:17:27.613 | # Question
Title: Hotends where heatbreak is not load-bearing?
Having started with an Ender 3, it just seemed natural to me that the heatbreak should not be load-bearing; Creality's stock hotend has 2 bolts holding the heat block to the heat sink, which of course waste some heating power and increase the cooling needed to avoid heat creep, but serve the important purpose of keeping the nozzle position rigid relative to the carriage and making it so you don't bend or snap the heatbreak when changing nozzles.
Looking at hotends (especially all-metal ones) for a possible future printer build, I'm surprised to see that many (most?) don't have this property, and have the heatbreak playing a load-bearing role. This seems really undesirable. Only the Mosquito *makes a point of* doing this right, and supposedly has a patent on this or related design decisions. Is that really the case? Are there basic all-metal hotends that are designed to avoid making the heatbreak load-bearing that don't cost $150?
# Answer
> 2 votes
The drop-in replacement all metal hotends for the Ender 3 that I've looked at seem to have the two screws -- though I've read/heard opinions that these are intended to be removed after assembly, these are common Mk. 8 type hot ends, but with 2 mm bore through the entire heat break instead of 4 mm. That seems to be the only modification (other than not anodizing the aluminum heat sink).
While the brand name units of this type run approximately 65 USD at retail, they're available from Chinese vendors for under 10 USD plus a few dollars shipping, if you don't mind waiting a few weeks instead of a couple days to receive your part -- and if they aren't from the same production but sold without extensive vendor support, they're very close physical copies, according to review videos I've seen.
It's also possible to replace just the heat break for similar cost, either in stainless or titanium, with a 2 mm bore unit; this would obviously preserve whatever additional mounting hardware exists on/between your original heat block and heat sink.
BTW, if they aren't already, replacing the screws with stainless will significantly reduce heat loss through the screws -- stainless is a much poorer conductor of heat than common steels used with plated screws.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You ask in general, not specifically for Ender, so since you mention the Mosquito, which has a characteristic shape and a size, the obvious alternative which doesn't cost that much is the Phaetus Dragon.
It copies the idea of the Mosquito, but it is repackaged in a shape and size fully equivalent to standard v6 hotends so it's a drop-in replacement for any v6 hotend. You don't have one, but in general...
Footnote: Slice Engineering got the patent in US, but not in Europe and China, yet. Also, in Europe their idea apparently was found as not original. Who knows...
---
Tags: hotend, all-metal-hotend
--- |
thread-15395 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15395 | Ender 3 - X Axis Cannot Reach True Home | 2021-01-22T03:12:31.807 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 - X Axis Cannot Reach True Home
After a year of printing smaller models, I finally went to print something that would take up most of the build plate from left to right and realized that my nozzle cannot reach "true" X home.
As seen in this picture: the X-axis endstop does not allow a true X0, thus losing me precious mm of print space! I over-exaggerate, but truly is there any way to shift the X-axis more to the left or the Y axis/build plate more to the right to gain full bed usage?
Additional photo showing that the actual hotend plate is hitting the endstop:
Is this an Ender 3 problem in general that I have missed in my internet searches on this or is it just a manufacturing lottery that I unfortunately lost?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The rated build space for the Ender 3 takes into account the few mm of inaccessible bed width at the Xmin side, along with a similar strip at the Xmax where the hotend carriage runs into the bracket that holds the wheels for that side's Z frame. If your slicer has an Ender 3 profile, the space it allows you to use will print on the Ender 3 (unless you have bull clips holding a glass build surface in place; then they'll interfere, but mainly on the Ymin and Ymax edges).
Don't forget, even though your actual bed is 235 mm square, the *usable* build volume is rated as only 200 mm square (by 225 mm high).
# Answer
> 0 votes
You do have hit the true home. You will have to physically move the endstop to alter that position. Your problem is, that the endstop-home is on the build area - and that is printer dependant. My Ender 3 has about 4 mm diagonal distance from the bed in its physical home, for which I accounted via a firmware swap, including a "virtual" firmware home.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, endstop, x-axis, print-axis-offset
--- |
thread-16572 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16572 | What is the best way to collect sanding dust? | 2021-06-19T07:08:32.983 | # Question
Title: What is the best way to collect sanding dust?
I am pretty sure that sanding makes a lot of microplastics, so it would be nice to collect the dust, and melt it to got a blob of plastic again instead of millions of tiny particles. What is the best way for collecting it, do you use any dust extractor, or are there different techniques like sanding wet surfaces and filtering it from water?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I decided to collect the dust and treat both PLA and ABS with chemicals to completely break them down. That solves the issue and I won't rely on false hopes that somehow it does not end up in the environment.
# Answer
> 4 votes
As an environmental thing, micro plastics are an urgent problem for ocean life, it’s getting into the entire food chain. With that in mind dumping it down the drain would be the worst, city filtration systems can’t get the tiny bits of plastic before it drains into the ocean. Sanding outside is kind of bad. I sand stuff over a lined waste basket outside, which maybe catches 75% of the dust. Inside (or outside) with a vacuum running would be good, I think best would be a vacuum with disposable bags. Yes it is still micro plastics, but it ends up at the dump, where the soil is already poisoned, and hopefully nowhere near the ocean/waterways, and likely will stay there while it breaks down. PLA takes ~80 years, but ABS takes 1000 years.
The idea of collecting the dust and fusing it sounds like it would be too much hassle to be feasible long term, it’s good, sustainable habits over years that add up.
As a side note, card scraping is a nice way to smooth 3D prints, that doesn’t make fine dust.
---
Tags: post-processing, safety
--- |
thread-6221 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6221 | Can't connect Cura to my Anet A8 on OSX 10.11.6 | 2018-06-24T18:11:56.130 | # Question
Title: Can't connect Cura to my Anet A8 on OSX 10.11.6
I finished the mount of my Anet A8, tested everything and apparently it was ok. I installed the driver that came with it, `CH341SER_MAC`, turned on the printer, connect USB cable, but nothing happened.
In Cura, I tried to add a printer many times and this message always appears
> The printer isn't connected.
In OSX, I discover in System Information, an **USB2.0-Serial**, that I think can be the printer. Is it a printer driver problem? Is it the Cura setting? I'm completely lost...
# Answer
> 3 votes
There are a lot of problems with the CH340 chipset drivers to be found on 3D SE and various forums on the internet. To use this cheap CH340 chip that is used by a number of Arduino compatible (clone) boards to provide USB connectivity (a USB bus converter chip that converts USB bus signals to serial interface) you need to install a correct working driver.
For Mac OS X you can try to download a working version for the OS system you are using. You can try to use this driver installer or this driver installer. Both reported to work with Mac OS.
---
**Edit**: If you are using OSX El Capitan, please read this. To get the CH340 drivers to work you need to use the tool **csrutil**.
> * Reboot and press CMD+R immediately after hearing the startup sound to boot to Recovery Mode
> * Open Terminal
> * Execute the following command: `csrutil enable --without kext`
> * Reboot
More information is found here!
# Answer
> 2 votes
*You are using OSX El Capitan. The version of OSX is **particularly** relevant w.r.t. the CH340 drivers. A driver that works on one OSX version, **will not necessarily work** with a different version of OSX - even minor version changes of OSX can be affected (as the answers to Problem with serial driver for CH340G board demonstrate.*
---
### Important Note
Before installing *any* new drivers, it is always worth backing up the original file, just to avoid any unpleasantness later. For example:
```
sudo mv /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext.old
```
---
I seem to remember having the same issue, not with a 3D printer, but just with a cloned Arduino board. I thought that I had written a lengthy blog about it but can't locate it at the moment (I will update this answer when I find it)<sup>1</sup>.
The CH34x ICs are infamous for their poor support on OSX. On Windows they generally fare a little better, and TBH it is probably well worth considering a WinTel option just to save yourself time, frustration and headaches...
Nevertheless, I think that I found this site to be useful, How To Use Cheap Chinese Arduinos That Come With With CH340G / CH341G Serial/USB Chip (Windows & Mac OS-X).
See also Compatibility between Arduino and Arduino clones:
> The most annoying issue, and even then it is quite minor, is that a lot of Chinese clones do not use an ATMega for the USB and instead use a CH340G. These chips, while fine when connecting to a PC running Windows 7, have great difficulties with the drivers on OS X, and end up just not being recognised. It is possible to find a driver for the CH340G, but when I installed it, it immediately crashed the MacBook, upon plugging in the cloned UNO..!
This advice also proved to be invaluable, from Post #47 - Arduino in OS X 10.9 Mavericks - Serial Port Issues
> For any others who haven't been able to solve this one yet: if, like me, you decided to go with the cheaper chinese kick off arduino clone boards and had problems similar to this one, please check the following forum post, as it solved the problem for me:
>
> http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=289518.0
>
> And another blog site that explains the whole process really simply for noobs like me:
>
> http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html
>
> Actually the dude has even mirrored the relevant driver that solves the problem without having to find it on an all chinese or all russian website!
---
Finally, I have just had a problem with an Arduino Nano and my Mac (running Mountain Lion). Using this link, Connect Arduino Nano with Mac OSX:
> 1. Download the driver from url: link
> 2. Extract and install file `CH34x_Install.pkg`
> 3. Run the command: `sudo nvram boot-args="kext-dev-mode=1"`
> 4. Restart the Mac.
> 5. Replace the text `-P{serial.port}` to `"-P{serial.port}"` in 2 files: `/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/platform.txt` (1 instance) `/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/programmers.txt` (4 instances)
However, this did not work for me, but I am running OS X 10.8.5 and the driver is meant for 10.9 (according to the `ReadMe.pdf`). My `/System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext` file remained unchanged (i.e. the date did not change), so maybe the installer will not work for 10.8.5.
I tried the second of 0scar's suggestions, but this didn't work for me either (on **Mountain Lion**): adrianmihalko/CH340G CH34G CH34X Mac OS X driver \- The `usb.kext` file was never installed in `/System/Library/Extensions/` by either the 1.3 or 1.4 versions.
The first of 0scar's links, Signed Mac OS Driver for Winchiphead CH340 serial bridge, interestingly pointed out that, *after* installation (and the associated reboot), one may have to copy the `usbserial.ktext` file manaually to /System/Library/Extensions/\`. So after locating the installed file I did the following:
```
sudo mv /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext
```
and then rebooted once again.
Note the change of the filename - this may or may not be necessary. Either way, when I used both `usbserial.kext` and `usb.kext`, *yet again*, this did not help me on Mountain Lion. However, the documents do state that this particular driver is for 10.9 (Mavericks) through to 10.13 (High Sierra).
The answer to this question, Uploading to a CH340 “Nano” board using a Mac with Osx High Sierra, may help you on **OSX High Sierra**.
It might be worth trawling through this list of questions on the Arduino.SE site: `osx nano`, such as this one Rename device name (ch340 usb to serial) Mac OS.
---
### Additional note
Another pitfall is that some drivers may be named `CH341xx.xxx`, but they may work for both the CH340 *and* the CH340... then again, they may not. The docs don't always say whether they will or not work for both ICs.
---
### Footnotes
<sup>1</sup> I think it might be this Re: Arduino in OS X 10.9 Mavericks - Serial Port Issues:
> Yes, I have been struggling for a month or so, and finally realised (after reading http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.15#msg1720630) that other chips were being used, in lieu of the FTDI chip, for example the Prolific 2305. After inspecting the board with a magnifying glass, I saw that I did not have an FTDI chip in my Chinese clones of an Uno and a Mega, but a CH340G instead.
>
> Once I realised that I found the http://wch.cn/product/CH340.html site, but the Mac driver doesn't appear to be there. After a bit more googling I found the kiguino site. I downloaded the mirrored driver, rebooted the mac, and when I connected the Uno, my MacBook died and restarted with the grey serious error screen and refused to boot. After disconnecting the Uno, the Mac rebooted as normal, so no lasting damage done, but I am a bit wary of trying to plug the clone in again.
>
> Anyway, note that the chip says CH340 on it, but the drivers are CH341. I assume that they are compatible.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The problem is not in drivers! In the file located at Ultimate Cura -\> Contents/Resources/USBPrinting/AutoDetectBaudJob.py in line 74 in the if statement you should replace `and` with `or`:
```
if b"ok" in line or b"T:" in line: # or instead of and
```
# Answer
> -3 votes
What Cura version do you have? Cura only works with the Anet A8 via USB on versions 2.3 and lower according to this page. The page is from thingiverse(A 3d printing forum + print files page)
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, anet-a8
--- |
thread-16133 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16133 | Filament jam on the tube entrance | 2021-04-19T16:55:10.340 | # Question
Title: Filament jam on the tube entrance
I have a problem in regards to filament jam, however I don't think that my case is any related to the extruder nozzle. After 30 to 40 minutes printing my filament bends and get stuck on the tube entrance. To print a nut wheel which comes as a demo file, I had to repeat the operation 4 times, and I had to stop printing when it got stuck, and continue with the printing, which led to a small imperfection. What's the problem? The filament? The printer? Myself? I have a Voxelab Aquila (completely new) and the filament u just a generic PLA from Amazon.
# Answer
Something is stopping the filament from going down the tube 30 to 40 min. after you start printing. You are correct that this doesn't sound like a clogged nozzle. It could be deformed filament, but the closeness of the timing after the start sounds like heat creep. Other possibilities are also listed at the linked stackexchange article.
Note: with heat creep the filament will not jam in the tube. It will jam just above the nozzle on a Bowden tube extruder; thus the filament stops going down the tube. The tube entrance is probably the largest location the tube can kink, although not very large.
What are ways to avoid heat creep?
> 2 votes
# Answer
First, remove the Bowden tube coupler from the extruder and clip that mangled end. If the tube isn't straight, it will cause friction and other problems.
Second, your filament should not have gear marks biting into it but the white tube shouldn't be visible between the gears.
> 1 votes
# Answer
You need a better filament quality I have the same printer and I had switched to Overture. Know use PLA Plus or (PLA+)due to not sticking to the bed well enough and your issue. And this issue may be the way the entire module moves up and down the threads may need better positioning like tighten loosen or even level it out check for a bend.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament-jam
--- |
thread-16596 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16596 | How to add tolerances/gaps in OnShape? | 2021-06-22T20:46:21.950 | # Question
Title: How to add tolerances/gaps in OnShape?
When printing parts that fit together, there's a need to offset them from each other with a slight gap to provide for the printer tolerances. It's possible to take that into account from the very beginning when designing parts, but it makes the initial design far more complicated. Is it possible to effectively "offset" all faces of a part, the same way you' offset lines of a sketch?
Essentially, asking the same question as this, but for OnShape:
How to add tolerances/gaps in 123d Design?
# Answer
> 2 votes
OnShape has a "Move Face" tool that can do exactly this: select the relevant faces to move, and then choose "offset" as the "Move Type". You can do all your offsets at once, but because I'm often selecting a lot of faces, I find it easiest to create one offset per part, and hide the other parts to be able to drag to select groups of faces at once. (and then I use a variable to hold the amount by which to offset). I find this makes it easier to fix the offsets when making changes to the parts earlier in the part history.
---
Tags: 3d-design, cad, print-preparation
--- |
thread-2970 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2970 | How to add tolerances/gaps in Autodesk 123D Design? | 2016-10-24T13:59:18.637 | # Question
Title: How to add tolerances/gaps in Autodesk 123D Design?
When I design parts that must fit in each other, I usually keep in mind that prints are 0.2-0.5 mm wider than expected (depending on the material), and I size the parts accordingly.
However, sometimes, I design the whole part and then slice it with planes or lines. In these cases, I need to push/pull each contact surface manually by the same amount (0.2-0.5 mm), which is a time-consuming task. Another option is to use a cutter to remove the outer surface layer (basically, I remove the rigged surface, making it smooth again). Still, it's unsafe and even more time-consuming.
How can I quickly generate said controlled gaps on the contact surfaces between two objects but not on the rest of the object? To make it everywhere, I could use shells, I guess, but I don't need that on the whole object.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Unfortunately, 123D Design doesn't have such a feature.
You could select multiple surfaces and push/pull them all at the same time though.
Remember, your 3D Printer's slicer should have an option to undersize or oversize holes and walls, to help reduce/remove the effect you talk about. It's called size correction, I think? Simplify3D Has it, atleast. You might have to tweak this for every filament type, though.
# Answer
> 0 votes
AFAICT Push/Pull faces is the closest thing to what you're looking for. eg:
In OnShape there is an "offset face" command that allows applying such an offset to multiple faces at once: How to add tolerances/gaps in OnShape?
Unfortunately I'm not aware of a way to do exactly the same thing in 123D Design, but I'm far less proficient with that tool (as Alucard Pawpad noted, though, it is possible to just select multiple faces at the same time and manipulate them all together, which is somewhat similar)
---
Tags: 3d-design, print-preparation, autodesk
--- |
thread-16585 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16585 | What's causing my PLA prints to lift like this? | 2021-06-21T23:14:21.703 | # Question
Title: What's causing my PLA prints to lift like this?
I'm printing a Soma cube I found on Thingiverse -- it's a puzzle toy I remember from the early 1970s, and the kind of thing that ought to be really easy-peasy to print. Each of the seven pieces is made of four cubes (or three for one piece) joined face to face in every possible combination, so that they can be assembled to make a single 3x3 cube (the claim in the day was, in literally tens of millions of ways -- though many of those were reflections or rotations of others).
Problem is, in order for the seven pieces to fit together correctly to make the 3x3 cube, they have to be flat and square on all faces, and dimensionally accurate.
I have an Ender 3 that's just a few weeks old (first print was May 8th to 9th of this year, also my own first 3D print). I'm printing these parts in gray Amazon Basics PLA at 200 °C, with the Creality coated glass build surface at 55 °C. I'm printing on a raft; the first layer goes down well, but over the course of the first forty or so layers, I get this:
I presume this is due to the upper layers shrinking, though the horizontal dimensions look fine at the level where I stopped the print. I have Cura Slicer 4.9.1 set to print with no part cooling for initial layer, increasing to 100 % at layer 4. When I removed this part (immediately after stopping the print, so the bed was still in the low 50s), it was still stuck fairly well -- except where it had lifted.
What's causing this warping/lifting?
# Answer
> 4 votes
> What's causing this warping/lifting?
The warping and lifting is caused by insufficient adhesion. This can be caused by an incorrect first layer (it is difficult to see the raft, but generally, rafts have no solid bottom, so less adhesion as there is less material), e.g. not sufficiently squished to the plate. Note that a raft is absolutely unnecessary for PLA, you should use it for high temperature filaments that experience a lot of shrinkage, PLA does not.
What you should do is make sure the bed is completely clean and free from grease. Use isopropyl/isopropanol alcohol to clean the bed.
Temperature of the bed should be fine, but you could try to notch it up with 5 °C.
I've seen people use an adhesive between the bed and the print, even on coated beds. But, I can imagine you don't want to try that, it needs more cleaning.
Also, make sure that the printer isn't in front of a window or in the path of an air-conditioning airflow.
# Answer
> 2 votes
If you know that the bed surface is clean and that the filament and the bed material are compatible (as in this case), you may want to optimise the bed temperature.
It is known that the plastic shrinks a little, so the upper layers pull and the bottom layer has to hold everything flat. It happens also with PLA.
Too hot bed? sometime adhesion is increased, but the first layer is soft and all the flatness work is held by the adhesive. It will likely fail.
Too cold? the first layer will hold well its shape, but little adhesion will result in it failing.
If you can't reach a good adhesion, you have to optimise the bed temperature yourself. Print a wedge at different bed temperatures and pick the best result.
See here for the detailed instructions and here for an explanation.
For information, from personal experience sometimes I had better adhesion by lowering the temperature. For example, 75 °C for PETG seems definitely too much to me, because at that temperature PETG has almost no rigidity. The same with nylon: at 100-120 °C I couldn't get it to work. At 80 °C I could get some results. PETG at 60 °C is good, PLA at 50 °C max, ABS up to 110 °C but 100 °C may be already good (the issue is different with ABS)
# Answer
> 2 votes
You need to get a little closer in your first layer. I have this same machine (and several others). You shouldn't have that problem with PLA, it's a lot more common with ABS.
So if it's pulling away from the bed, it hasn't adhered all the way, to begin with. Try micro stepping closer with the firmware or just hand adjusting the wheels a slight amount closer and get a good first layer smoosh!
If you need more help with this printer, I have a whole playlist of videos specific to it at on YouTube that should be of help to you!
# Answer
> 1 votes
1. What has worked for me is to keep the bed temperature constant at 60 °C. Use a higher extrusion temperature for the first layer to promote adhesion. (Differences in PLA composition could cause these temperatures to vary.)
2. Sometimes it helps to have an bed temperature for the 1st layer as high as 75 °C to promote adhesion. While depositing the first layer with this bed temperature promotes adhesion, leaving the bed temperature this high actually decreases it, besides risking the print sagging under its weight.
3. Additional adhesion layers such as glue sticks might help.
4. If not already using it, less stiff fill patterns (rectangular) can help, as well as a lower percentage fill.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Increase bed adhesion and/or decrease temperature gradient over the part. As the object builds, and it gets further away from the heated build plate, the plastic gets colder and shrinks. The bottom stays warm and does not shrink, this makes the part want to bow/warp. At the plastic’s glass temperature, where it transitions from liquid to solid (PLA is 60 °C), it has little shrink. That’s why heated beds stick to the plastic, but as it cools the object pops off-it shrinks and breaks the bond.
Other answers have good advice-clean oils off the bed, ensure the first layer is squished into the bed. Ensure the bed is level, so the first layer is squished down uniformly. I would disagree that an adhesive is not necessary. I use a glue stick and it works, where glass alone couldn’t keep my corners stuck down. It is common to run a 60 °C bed for the first PLA layer and cool it off 5 degrees, as a little cooler can still adhere but have less tendency for the part to “elephant foot” from the bottom layers being too warm and gradually deforming. Your 55 °C seems fine, you could still cool it off to 50 °C. I don’t think there is any benefit to running it extra hot (unless the glass surface runs cooler than the bed thermistor reports) as it will be more prone to elephant foot the part.
What I felt compelled to add to the other answers is that if the upper layers aren’t as cold, i.e. they are closer in temperature to the bed layers, less of a temperature gradient over the part, they won’t shrink as much and will have less strength to warp and peel up the corners. I’ve used a couple of 150 W heat lamps, shining at the bed, and have been able to print big flat objects without a brim. It especially helps in the winter. The cooling fans, while they help the print quality, increase the coldness/shrink of the upper layers. I think it would be worthwhile to try less cooling fan, so long as the object doesn’t deform/sag. Often the same corner will lift; if something makes it cooler on that corner, like the cooling fan blows on it longer, the heat break fan blows on it, or it’s draftier. If so, a different part orientation could possibly help.
One nuclear option you can try on large flat prints, if you just can’t keep the brim or raft stuck down with adhesive and whatnot, is to pause a few layers in, and tape the brim down with painter's tape.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, adhesion, warping, cooling
--- |
thread-16604 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16604 | Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work? | 2021-06-23T13:21:36.157 | # Question
Title: Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?
A frequently discussed update to a 3D printer is the so-called leveling sensor; this sensor can be inductive, capacitive, optical or mechanical (i.e pressure or physically touching, like a BLTouch).
It is supposed to level your bed, providing improved first layer adherence and thus less failed prints.
How does this automatic bed leveling work?
# Answer
> 9 votes
*The issues/questions raised about the automatic bed leveling using e.g. a BLTouch probe at this stack require a more in depth description of the automatic leveling functionality in general, this answers aims on describing how this works.*
---
### Definition of "bed leveling"
Let us begin with saying that such sensors systems alone will ***never level your bed***, this is a misconception that is easily concluded from the terms being used (terms like Auto Bed Leveling, ABL). Using such sensors will not physically change the "level" of your bed.*<sup>1)</sup>* Furthermore, the process of leveling your build surface/heated bed is commonly known as *tramming*.
> **Tramming** is the process of adjusting the build surface to be parallel to the X-axis and Y-axis of the 3D printer.
But, when do you need such a functionality*<sup>2)</sup>*? What if the bed surface isn't completely flat/square? Tramming such a surface is difficult and that surface will not be perpendicular to the X-Y plane of the nozzle... Why a bed is not perfectly flat can be caused by the manufacturing process, handling (during shipment, dropping tools on the surface, etc.), the way the bed is mounted and thermal stresses of non-uniform heating.
### Basics
Many printers use endstops to determine the origin of the printer, these aren't essential for the printer, but very useful for the operator. Endstops allow for setting the reference from a known position to the origin of the printer. In fact, the sophisticated leveling sensors are nothing more than the simple Z-endstop except that the sensor is mounted onto the print head, it allows for probing the bed in more positions than an endstop limit switch mounted on the frame’s Z-axis.
In order to be able to print consistently, you should provide a bed that is properly trammed (to aid adhesion/prevent objects to not stick to the build plate). But, if for some reason, the surface contains imperfections, the normal tramming of the build surface using just the Z-endstop and the leveling screws might not be sufficient.
### What does this so-called "leveling" do?
Using the ABL features from firmware will enable the use of a sensor to scan the surface of the build surface/heated bed to create a digital representation of the topology of the surface. This scanned surface includes the imperfections of the surface (this is depending on the option to process the measurement points of the scanning process, the more probing points the better the geometry can be mapped). E.g. just scanning 3 points will only result in a tilted plane (e.g. Ultimaker), but, scanning multiple points in a grid style process, the surface can be mapped to a complex surface describing the shape. So, if a surface isn't fully flat/square, the scanned surface provides a digital copy of the shape of the build plate.
### How is the scanned surface applied?
Note that this scanning of the surface is generally done at a distance from the actual nozzle (except for pressure sensor systems where the nozzle is used as the probe), the images below show this for a BLTouch sensor and an inductive/capacitive sensor. For an inductive sensor this is the distance of detecting metal (minus the distance to the nozzle), for a BLTouch this is based on the triggering point of the extendable probe, see this answer (the image below depict the terminology). The operator of the printer needs to determine at which distance this bed has been scanned. This is commonly known as determining the Z-offset. The Z-offset can be set using a terminal or through the display. Setting this Z-offset is described in detail in "Specifying Z offset in Marlin firmware".
Once the shape of the bed is captured (G-code command `G29`) and stored and the correct distance (Z-offset) set with `M851 Zx.xx` (or through the display), the use of the shape needs to be activated in the starting G-code section of the G-code file of the print.
The nozzle will now be following the bed shape to improve the bed adhesion, this compensation is by default set to be smeared out in 10 mm, but can be disabled or changed to any other value using `M420 Zxx`. The nozzle will print in the X-Y plane without compensation after the compensation distance. If you do not tram the bed correctly, the bottom of that print object will thus not be square to the height! See question "Does auto leveling result in sheared prints?".
---
---
*<sup>1)</sup>* *Do note that actual leveling the bed is possible in some firmware flavors, but this is only possible if more individual controlled Z-steppers are used to move the bed/nozzle assembly!*
*<sup>2)</sup> Please note that firmware development has progressed over the years, e.g. using a recent version of Marlin, you can change the firmware to use UBL (see question What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same?). With UBL you technically do not need a leveling sensor, but, this is a laborious process to do this manually.*
---
Tags: bltouch, knowledgebase, inductive-sensor, automatic-bed-leveling
--- |
thread-16437 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16437 | Has anyone had success printing PMMA filament using Lulzbot products? | 2021-06-04T07:41:05.967 | # Question
Title: Has anyone had success printing PMMA filament using Lulzbot products?
The title of this post more or less says it all.
I am having a heck of a time getting PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) to print on my Lulzbot Mini 2 (which uses all of the standard/default attachments). Lulzbot offers a demo-STL file (called the "Rocktopus" - found here: https://www.lulzbot.com/content/meet-rocktopus) that is used to evaluate whether or not the printer+filament are behaving as intended. Thus far, I have had no luck with its print.
Layer separation consistently appears to occur at various levels:
1. sometimes at the interface between the first layer of deposited PMMA (i.e. the first layer of the raft)
2. sometimes at intermediate layers above the raft (i.e. mid-layers of the Rocktopus)
I have scoured the internet trying to find parameter recommendations (e.g. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/mame.201900263) in order to arrive at successful prints. I have tried several different combinations of bed temperature, extruder/nozzle temperature, layer height, travel speed, etc based on the few articles I have come across: no luck.
I have seen a few recommendations buried on forums to get a heat enclosure cage, but these were not specific to the lulzbot 3d printing line. The heat enclosures are a $200+, so I was hoping I could I find someone on here that could confirm the necessity of this accessory product before I shell out the moneys.
My mini is paired with the most up to date version of Cura Lulzbot (edition 3.6.23).
Any assistance is greatly appreciated! Cheers~
# Answer
> 1 votes
I was experiencing similar issues on my Raise3D Pro2Plus. I've printed near 20 small cylinders to try and fine-tune the settings to get densities that are close to the theoretical density and right now am sitting comfortably around 80 %. Here is what I've found
* Temperature of the build plate and extruder have had a large effect on the quality of the print (obviously), to the point where 3-4 ° have a noticeable effect on print quality. I have settled on an extruder temperature of 252 °C and a bed temperature of 82 °C. I also print in an enclosure which I imagine is necessary due to the shrinkage seen in PMMA.
* A lot of my problems were with bed adhesion. The Buildtak that came on the Raise3D worked for a while but the higher temperatures eventually caused the adhesive to fail and bubble up where I was trying to print. Blue tape and purple glue stick worked sometimes but would often detach halfway through the raft. What I've found that works reliably is Kapton tape covered in a purple glue stick. This has yet to fail me and the only downside is that I often have to reapply the Kapton after every 2 or so prints which is a small price to pay for me as my regular prints take 3-4 days.
Just for reference, I print at 30 mm/s, 1 mm nozzle, 0.29 mm layer height. I definitely get your frustration on trying to find a good resource for settings. Most I could find were generic ranges for temperatures and speeds.
---
Tags: filament, heat-management, lulzbot
--- |
thread-16608 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16608 | Ender 3 bed level issues along Y axis | 2021-06-23T16:56:23.543 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 bed level issues along Y axis
I have an Ender 3 Pro with a magnetic bed. Recently, I've come across an issue I've never had before. The printer bed is higher on the front and back edges, along the Y-axis. It's okay in the middle of the bed from left to the right, but when I start moving the Y-axis nozzle gets closer to the bed. I've drawn a picture of the close areas approximately. Red areas are the areas in which the nozzle starts touching the bed.
I'm not used to fixing problems on my printer, but I tried loosening side screws to check bends on extrusions. I've tried it several times but it didn't solve the problem. Then I've removed the bed to tighten the screws on the part moving on the Y-axis. It didn't work either. I'm not sure if I did things correctly but I assume that I did. I also think that the bed may be warped, but I'm not sure because it wasn't not a long time ago. What could cause this problem?
# Answer
> 2 votes
A bend in the frame extrusion won't affect the bed this way on an Ender 3 -- the bed rides on a carriage with (IIRC) four V-groove wheels, similar to the Z and X axis carriages. If your bed is the same front and back, but that's higher (relative to the nozzle) than the middle, it's because *the bed itself* has a curve. This is more common (in my experience) with the right and left edges high relative to the middle, but the mechanism is the same.
First, preheat the bed and let it stay hot for ten minutes or longer, then check again. Mine flattens out almost completely when the temperature is fully equalized; if this does the trick, you'll just need to remember to preheat the bed several minutes before starting each print.
If that doesn't fix the problem, then either you'll need to shim up the center of the bed by an appropriate amount (tissue paper or typing paper work, though they tend to get thinner over time), or you'll need to install a rigid build surface (the Creality polymer coated glass one costs barely more than a spool of basic filament). Do be aware that a glass build plate will raise your build surface, and may require adjusting the Z-stop to prevent dragging the nozzle even with the adjusting springs fully compressed.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, bed
--- |
thread-16610 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16610 | PLA for Dactyl Manuform print | Which material for printing the shell | 2021-06-23T17:47:32.567 | # Question
Title: PLA for Dactyl Manuform print | Which material for printing the shell
I bought PLA Wood for my planned Dactyl Manuform. But now the question is whether this will melt or deform in the sun.
I live in Germany, where we reach some days at times 32 °C. However, the keyboard will stand on my desk and will also be directly exposed to the sun.
Now I am worried that this could already be deformed after a few days/months.
Should I rather buy PETG or ABS and print the parts with it?
Or does anyone have experience with PLA in the sun?
Filament: Giantarm PLA Wood
# Answer
I can't comment directly on Giantarm PLA Wood, but I can give two endpoints: I have an antenna sleeve (for the amateur radio antenna on my car, to keep it from folding when it shouldn't) printed from black generic PLA; it stands in direct sun and has so far withstood *air temperature* of 37 °C (in direct sun, remember) without any visible deformation -- and I printed a cell phone holder for the interior of my car which failed, softening and sagging under its own weight when it was nowhere close to that temperature outside (but the car was in the sun, so the interior likely approached 50 °C).
Based on that, I would expect PLA to remain fine as long as the temperature of the material stays below about 50 °C, which is its glass transition (approximately). If your office gets warm enough for the keyboard to reach that temperature (even in direct sun), you'll have multiple other issues with computer overheating, plants dying, etc.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: pla, filament, diy-3d-printer, material, filament-choice
--- |
thread-16613 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16613 | 3D printer clog. Nozzle keeps getting screwed in crooked | 2021-06-23T21:29:34.073 | # Question
Title: 3D printer clog. Nozzle keeps getting screwed in crooked
My 3D printer has got a clog, and i think it is because the nozzle hole has just recently started to only screw in crooked. I’m not sure how this happened. I have tried with multiple nozzles, but they all screw in crooked. Is there a way to fix this? Or is my only option to get a new hotend.
My 3d printer is an Ender 3
# Answer
> 3 votes
You should be able to purchase only the heater block for your hot end. The nozzle should thread in by hand without undue force. Having to use a wrench at the outset is an indication of a problem which should have stopped the attempt.
There are many sources for the "heater block for Ender 3" when used in a search. One such result is an Amazon seller of three pieces for US$11.99
Image via linked site.
---
Tags: filament, hotend, nozzle
--- |
thread-11845 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11845 | New PETG spool from eSUN is making popping sound while extruding | 2020-01-24T12:16:43.663 | # Question
Title: New PETG spool from eSUN is making popping sound while extruding
I just bought new eSUN PETg filament. When I started to extrude it, I heard popping sound same as moisture boiling out of it. I don't expect new eSUN vaccum sealed filament having moisture content. Is there any problem with my e3d v6? Is it possible that due to old filament, moisture is residing inside my extruder assembly and new filament is carrying it while extruding? My settings :
* print temperature: 250 °C,
* bed temperature: 80 °C,
* retraction length: 6.5 mm,
* retraction speed: 25 mm/s,
* print speed: 10 mm/s,
* layer height: 25 micron
What do I do in this case? Should I clean the extruder assembly?
# Answer
It really isn't reasonable to expect moisture to be inside of the extruder assembly; it would be the filament. Assuming there was moisture somewhere, the filament would not have time to absorb it in the short time it is inside of the extruder. Once it got to the hot block, any moisture would steam away and shouldn't give you that snapping sound; the moisture needs to be inside of the filament for that.
Because the filament is inside of a vacuum packed bag with a desiccant doesn't really mean anything if you think about it. The desiccants are typically inside of the spool hole and the plastic bag seals that chamber where the desiccant resides. The filament is on the other side of the spool and the desiccant can't really do anything beyond dry out that pocket of air that it is inside; the filament itself isn't really exposed to the desiccant.
If you can also imagine a balloon, do you know how the air/helium slowly leaks out of it after a few days until you're left with a sad pocket of air loosely contained in a bag of wrinkly rubber? You can imagine your bag that the filament came in as a balloon too, but instead of leaking air out, it is leaching moisture in. This of course takes a really long time and depends on the quality of plastic the bag is made of, its thickness, and the quality and properties of the material the filament is composed of. Because the desiccant isn't between the bag and the filament, as soon as moisture gets in the bag, it's likely it'll be immediately exposed to the filament.
When I first started 3D printing, I opened up a fresh spool of black ABS from ColorCubed. It was nicely vacuum packed and with a silica-gel packet, but after immediately opening it and putting it in my new printer and then printing with it, you could tell it was so saturated with moisture that you'd swear you could wring it out.
It is possible you got a shoddy spool, it is possible that you got a really old spool. I'd advise looking into some techniques to dry out the filament and going from there.
Welcome to the community, by the way!
> 3 votes
# Answer
The extruder can't hold much water and transport it to the melt zone. Filament can. The printer behaves like the filament is wet, so try drying it.
Try putting the filament in your electric oven at the lowest temperature (often 170 °F to 180 °F) for an hour and see if the behavior improves.
Keep the filament at a distance from (or shield it from) the heating elements.
> 2 votes
# Answer
250 °C is a bit hot for PETG - It's in the range, but on the hot side. Popping is usually due to moisture. I've had many new, vacuum sealed spools of filament have moisture in them. Try drying it.
I'd recommend a dehydrator rather than an oven; with PETG I wouldn't go over 150 °F.
The problem with an oven is the extreme radiant heat from the elements can (not always) melt or deform the spool or even fuse parts of the filament in the spool together.
> 2 votes
# Answer
eSun has had quality problems recently (mid 2020), when they switched from the screw together clear reels to the molded black reels. I got an unprintable roll of PLA that was wet and brittle, others reported similar issues. This is theorized to have coincided with them moving production to Vietnam.
Try to dry it, but if that doesn’t help, try a different brand. As far as your settings, I’ve printed a couple reels of the eSun PETG successfully at 235 °C, with 75 °C bed (though bed would have nothing to do with moisture). Agree 10 mm/s print speed is excruciatingly slow. 50 mm/s is typical for a Bowden setup.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: extrusion, petg
--- |
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.