id
stringlengths 8
14
| url
stringlengths 40
58
| title
stringlengths 2
150
| date_created
stringdate 2008-09-06 22:17:14
2024-03-31 23:12:03
| text
stringlengths 149
7.14M
|
|---|---|---|---|---|
thread-20201
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20201
|
Convert model to "skeleton / prototype" model for quick real world "Proof of Concept"
|
2022-11-11T08:44:04.783
|
# Question
Title: Convert model to "skeleton / prototype" model for quick real world "Proof of Concept"
Does anyone know of a method, app, technique to "dumb down", if you will, larger models to do a quick initial print to check that it fits the real world proof of concept that it was designed for.
I am not talking about 0.3 mm draft printing, I already do that... But is there a way or method, to kind of "skeleton" the large print, print it in let's say, 25 % of the actual time to test its physical application. Scaling down works, in some situations, but I would prefer a 100 % model, just "simplified / skeleton'ized", still with the correct dimensions.
I primarily use Fusion360 for designs.
# Answer
> 3 votes
There are techniques to remove material from an exiting model to create less dense models (like in a skeleton). One such a technique is applying Voronoi tessellation (also known as a Voronoi decomposition, a Voronoi partition, or a Dirichlet tessellation), basically the model is broken up in polyhedrons of which the ribs are kept with a certain thickness and smoothed. See e.g. the following example from https://www.voronator.com/:
You can modify files yourself or use an online application to do that for you.
However, you may create skeleton like models, but it is not always faster to print these models; they may have less material, but retraction may cause the printing time to be actually longer than printing the original at low density infill.
---
Tags: fusion360, rapid-prototyping
---
|
thread-20163
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20163
|
Updating the firmware an Ender 3 With Linux
|
2022-11-01T18:02:54.637
|
# Question
Title: Updating the firmware an Ender 3 With Linux
I have the following command:
`format /q H:/fs:fat32/a:4096`
that will then allow me to upload a .bin file that will update the ender's firmware. How do I do this same format on linux?
(It seems the Ender does not respond to firmware update now, even if I leave it as the only file on the drive. What is the Ender really looking for?)
I have a stock board.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It's not obvious which, if either, the question is asking:
* How does this Microsoft gobbledygook translate into a normal Linux command.
* This is how I'd normally do it, but what would it be if I have to do it on Linux?
`format /q H:/fs:fat32/a:4096` is a lazy way of saying `format H: /q /fs:fat32 /a:4096`.
The documentation says:
```
>format /?
Formats a disk for use with Windows.
FORMAT volume [/FS:file-system] [/V:label] [/Q] [/L[:state]] [/A:size]
[/C] [/I:state] [/X] [/P:passes] [/S:state]
…
volume Specifies the drive letter (followed by a colon),
mount point, or volume name.
/FS:filesystem Specifies the type of the file system (FAT, FAT32, exFAT,
NTFS, UDF, ReFS).
/A:size Overrides the default allocation unit size. Default settings
are strongly recommended for general use.
…
/Q Performs a quick format. Note that this switch overrides /P.
…
```
Linux has formatting commands named mkfs.\*
```
$ mkfs.fat -help
mkfs.fat 4.1 (2017-01-24)
Usage: mkfs.fat [-a][-A][-c][-C][-v][-I][-l bad-block-file]
[-b backup-boot-sector]
[-m boot-msg-file][-n volume-name][-i volume-id]
[-s sectors-per-cluster][-S logical-sector-size][-f number-of-FATs]
[-h hidden-sectors][-F fat-size][-r root-dir-entries][-R reserved-sectors]
[-M FAT-media-byte][-D drive_number]
[--invariant]
[--help]
/dev/name [blocks]
```
`man mkfs.fat` gives details about the individual options.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, firmware
---
|
thread-20204
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20204
|
eSun PETG outer wall delamination, random huge artifacting on some sides and fine printing on others
|
2022-11-11T16:39:52.930
|
# Question
Title: eSun PETG outer wall delamination, random huge artifacting on some sides and fine printing on others
Check this post for larger versions of these pictures,
Using an Ender 5 Pro, printing at 0.28 mm lowest resolution.
As per that subs recommendation, I've tried the following with not a shred of difference:
* Different speeds down to 40 mm
* Temps from 230-250 °C
* Fans from 0-50 %
* Calibrated E step
* Changed retract before outer wall to off
* Outer wall flow 105 %
* Main flow to 105 %
* Top skin overlap to 50 %
* Ironing on
* Retrimmed Bowden tube
* New nozzle
* Cleaned out hot end
* Relevelling
* Also happened directly after dehydrating
Seems to be something completely transient to these settings as it happens in the same place every time regardless. Are these under-extrusion spots? Should the PETG have a bigger baby-stepped Z gap?
Also seems like the first layer and other layers print what should be a straight line into an angled line (see top delamination). Completely stumped.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Go a lot slower. 40 mm/s is near the max speed for PETG on a stock Creality bowden extruder **at 0.2 mm layer height**. You're aiming for nearly 50% more flow per unit distance, so you need to drop speed proportionally, down to about 25-30 mm/s.
If your problem is isolated to only certain spots, it's likely that those are the only spots where you actually achieve and maintain the requested flow versus slowing down and speeding up over and over. It's also possible that you have oozing during travel (especially travel inside the boundary of the part, if your slicer is doing that unretracted) or that the extruder is slipping during unretract, producing missing extrusions.
---
Tags: petg, delamination
---
|
thread-20208
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20208
|
How to apply manually obtained mesh leveling values to a G-code file on a printer without ABL?
|
2022-11-12T08:39:31.837
|
# Question
Title: How to apply manually obtained mesh leveling values to a G-code file on a printer without ABL?
I have a Raise3D Pro2, which if you are not aware, is one of the most overbuilt, overpriced printers that lacks some of the most basic features of an Ender costing 1/10<sup>th</sup> the price. One of which is ABL.
I wish to generate a mesh with a dial indicator temporarily attached to the carriage, and then apply that mesh to a G-code file.
How would one do such a thing once they have manually recoded the offset values for their grid?
# Answer
> 1 votes
That depends on the firmware, e.g. Marlin firmware can set a mesh through G-codes when the firmware is set to Unified Bed Levelling (UBL).
However, Raise3D is using a closed source of which is unknown on which the firmware is based. You can most probably not use the Marlin firmware commands.
If you want to adjust for a measured build plate surface geometry, you can always fall back on developing a software program to alter your created G-code source file.
If you map the surface you can describe the height as function of X, Y coordinates. The current height value should be compensated for that mesh. A relative simple program (or plugin, e.g. Python script) should be able to alter the first 10 mm of G-codes where you smooth out the mesh to zero compensation at 10 mm height. Basically this is what the Marlin firmware does, compensation for the surface geometry.
---
Tags: bed-leveling, pronterface
---
|
thread-14900
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14900
|
Export STL from OpenSCAD command line, calling module within script?
|
2020-11-29T19:48:50.620
|
# Question
Title: Export STL from OpenSCAD command line, calling module within script?
Given a .SCAD file which contains some modules, how can I execute one of those modules from the command line?
**example.scad**
```
module One() { ... }
module Two() { ... }
```
**render.sh**
```
openscad -q -o one.stl --module One example.scad
```
Note that there is no `--module` option, but that is what I'm attempting to do. The workaround would be to make another .SCAD file e.g. `one.scad` which includes `example.scad`, and simply calls `One();` within and render that file from the shell file. But this is not ideal.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The `openscad -D` option can actually include arbitrary code, not just variable definitions, so you can include a call to the module. You can even use `/dev/null` on Linux or NUL on Windows as the input file and have 100 % of your code in `-D` statements.
# Answer
> 1 votes
OpenSCAD doesn't have such an option on the command line, but the general idiom I believe you want to use is have `.scad` source files which are modules include invocations of the module(s) at the top-level controllable by variables you can set on the command line or GUI customizer interface. Any such invocations will be ignored if the file is used (via `use` directive) in another file so they don't hurt its status as a library and make it easier to preview/test. So for example you could have:
```
wantOne = false;
if (wantOne) One();
```
and then set `wantOne` to `true` from the command line.
# Answer
> 1 votes
elaborating on the answer from @r-github-stop-helping-ice, I find the following pattern useful:
###### example.scad
```
module a() { .. }
module b() { .. }
module c() { .. }
module print(item=0) {
if (item==1) a();
if (item==2) b();
if (item==3) c();
}
item = 0;
print(item);
```
###### render.sh
```
#!/bin/bash
for i in {1..3}; do
openscad -D item=${i} -o item_${i}.stl example.scad
done
```
---
Tags: openscad
---
|
thread-18820
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18820
|
My Anycubic i3 Mega S stops working
|
2022-01-29T21:31:41.460
|
# Question
Title: My Anycubic i3 Mega S stops working
I have an Anycubic i3 Mega S and I'm using Ultimaker Cura. I'm using it for 1-2 years but 1-2 months ago this issue has started: The printer is starting to print then usually after 2-3 loops, it just stops working. I can't stop & pause the printing (it gives an error) and I have to turn off the printer.
I reinstalled the firmware multiple times with both Ultimaker and SuperSlicer but it is still happening. I have tried to use different slicer software, models (STL files), SD cards, and none of them worked.
Also recently I noticed something weird: this problem happens when the model is bigger than 5-8 cm. Like it happened when I tried to print a 10x10 cm model but I split the model into two parts and it worked fine. Also, it's about the area of the model's bottom. For example, if the model has a skirt bigger than 5-8 cm, it causes this issue but when I remove the skirt then it works fine.
BTW, I checked the G-code and didn't notice anything unusual and even with different slicer software, the exact spot where the printer stopped doesn't change.
I don't think the STL file is causing this because, for example, if I want to print a 5x8x3 cm model, I can't place it horizontally (5x8 area at the bottom) but I can place it vertically (5x3 area at the bottom) and it works fine.
Settings:
* Print speed: 50 mm/s
* Travel speed: 100 mm/s
* Nozzle temperature: 200 °C
* Bed temperature: 60 °C
* PLA filament
* Retraction distance: 6 mm
* Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s
I'm using a Volcano V6 hotend
I'm using stock 1.1.5 firmware:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/176Zdtz8-ZvCqL7MgupIVYgKVEnWnkPmW/view
# Answer
> 1 votes
I was having the same issues with the Mega S. After checking all the connections and switches, I saved all the files that were on the SD card to my laptop. I then performed a standard format (not a Quick format) on the SD card. After that was accomplished, I put the files back on; success, the printer works fine. Apparently the random writes on the SD card and not knowing where the G-code or STL was dropped can make the printer confused seeing a G-code file that has to be read continuously step by step.
---
Tags: firmware, anycubic-i3-mega, repair
---
|
thread-20213
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20213
|
Is my RAMPS 1.4 board fried?
|
2022-11-14T12:06:05.237
|
# Question
Title: Is my RAMPS 1.4 board fried?
I was adjusting the current on my Pololu stepper drivers when I accidentally fried two of my stepper drivers when I accidentally shorted the contacts with my multimeter probes. When I changed the fried drivers the board wasn't working properly. My Arduino Mega works fine alone when connected to my PC and executes the codes properly. However, as soon as I plug the RAMPS shield into my Arduino, the board disconnects from my computer. I cannot figure out the problem.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It is quite likely that something else (other than the stepper drivers) on the RAMPS board (and maybe even the Mega) has been damaged as well... The Mega board may still execute code correctly but maybe a random component has been damaged that you won't notice until it gets used.
It most probably would be possible to test both boards to locate the exact issue and faulty component, given enough time and patience.
The best thing to do, initially, is to look closely for any component that looks shot/burnt, or smells bad. It may sound odd but smelling a board can sometimes (but not always) locate the general area where a component has failed.
Another (more logical) approach would be to look at the schematic of the RAMPS to follow the circuits connected to the contacts that you shorted. Then check the components along that path. This method often is the most fruitful.
Assuming that you have a RAMPS 1.4 (you don't specify which version you have), there is the schematic:
However, even if you are lucky enough to locate the damaged component, do you have the skills to replace a SMD component?
Sadly, to be honest, it is probably cheaper, easier and quicker to just first buy a new RAMPS and substitute that in. The test to see if everything works OK. If the issue is still not resolved, then buy a new Mega and repeat the test.
---
Tags: arduino-mega-2650, ramps
---
|
thread-11984
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11984
|
Where to define grid for bilinear levelling in Marlin
|
2020-02-09T18:21:25.230
|
# Question
Title: Where to define grid for bilinear levelling in Marlin
I'm using firmware Marlin 2.0.3 on an Anet A8 printer. I'm using a Roko SN04-N NPN bed leveller. I've managed to set up 3 points bed levelling but I wanted to try the bilinear levelling.
Issue is, the sensor goes out of the aluminum bed ever so slightly during levelling, resulting in the printing head crashing on the bed.
Where can I set the grid for the bilinear levelling in the config file? I didn't find the option in the file and Google wasn't of any help this time.
# Answer
> 4 votes
If you have managed to setup 3-point levelling, you should be able to enable bi-linear levelling in the firmware.
From the configuration.h file for Marlin firmware you can find the following options:
```
/**
* Choose one of the options below to enable G29 Bed Leveling. The parameters
* and behavior of G29 will change depending on your selection.
*
* If using a Probe for Z Homing, enable Z_SAFE_HOMING also!
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
* Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't collinear)
* You specify the XY coordinates of all 3 points.
* The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR
* Probe several points in a grid.
* You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.
* The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
* Probe several points in a grid.
* You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.
* The result is a mesh, best for large or uneven beds.
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL (Unified Bed Leveling)
* A comprehensive bed leveling system combining the features and benefits
* of other systems. UBL also includes integrated Mesh Generation, Mesh
* Validation and Mesh Editing systems.
*
* - MESH_BED_LEVELING
* Probe a grid manually
* The result is a mesh, suitable for large or uneven beds. (See BILINEAR.)
* For machines without a probe, Mesh Bed Leveling provides a method to perform
* leveling in steps so you can manually adjust the Z height at each grid-point.
* With an LCD controller the process is guided step-by-step.
*/
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL
//#define MESH_BED_LEVELING
```
If you are using 3-point levelling you enabled constant `AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT` by removing the comment characters (`//`):
```
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
```
to enable bi-linear levelling, you should remove the comment characters before constant `#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR`:
```
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
```
Definition of the grid is done by specifying how many point you want to have using constants `GRID_MAX_POINTS_X` and `GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y`:
```
#if EITHER(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)
// Set the number of grid points per dimension.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
```
The code above shows the default definition of a 9 point (3 x 3) grid.
Note that this will only work well if the area for the sensor to reach safely is correctly defined. If the sensor is missing the build plate, you have not correctly defined the limits for the sensor. Question "How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?" has an accepted answer that describes how to define an area on the plate that the sensor may reach (the answer on this question also discusses Marlin 2.x).
---
## In the specific case of the OP (after posting the config files)
---
From the posted configuration files your probe position can be obtained:
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 25, 55, 0 }
```
So your probe is at the right-back when facing the printer. Also your bed area attempt (commented) and the current active bed area can be obtained:
```
#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC
//#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT 5
//#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT 200
//#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT 55
//#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK 200
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#endif
```
From these excerpts it is clear that the bed limits are incorrectly defined.
Following the theory from this answer the probe is only allowed to visit the following (dark red) area:
This area is defined as:
```
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (PROBE_OFFSET_X_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (PROBE_OFFSET_Y_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
which translates to:
```
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (25 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (55 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
As seen in the commented `//#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT 5` and uncommented `#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE` (equals 10) left probe limits, you are at least respectively 20 or 15 mm short, hence the sensor is not on the plate on the left.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Currently on 2.1.1 it is just
```
#define PROBING_MARGIN
```
On line 1500 of `Configuration.h`
For example,
```
#define PROBING_MARGIN 10
```
# Answer
> 0 votes
Note for anyone looking at the answer above, but in 2.1.x: The `#define` lines have been renamed:
```
#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC
#define PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT PROBING_MARGIN
#define PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT PROBING_MARGIN
#define PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT PROBING_MARGIN
#define PROBING_MARGIN_BACK PROBING_MARGIN
#endif
```
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling
---
|
thread-15732
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15732
|
Air printing/jamming midway through raft creation
|
2021-02-23T19:48:21.590
|
# Question
Title: Air printing/jamming midway through raft creation
For a school project, my teacher gave me a brand new Longer 3D printer to create parts with. After one good job, the printer cannot get past the raft creation without air printing. The thickness of the printed filament tapers down until no filament is coming out. I do not believe there is a jam in the hot end because if I remove the filament and cut off about 4 inches, the printer extrudes as normal.
I am using 1.75 mm PLA on a Longer 3D LK4.
When the problem occurs, the extruder continues as normal but prints out very little filament. The extruder drive gear also ticks backward as if it cannot supply enough force to move the filament forward.
I have tried decreasing the speed, increasing the temperature, turning off retractions, but none of those options seemed to have any effect on the problem.
If videos or pictures could be helpful let me know what to include.
My working idea of what's wrong is that heat creep is causing the filament inside of the heat sink to soften causing the filament to thicken and Jam. I could be wrong.
Figure one highlighting how the filament thins over the course of the raft creation until no more filament is extruded.
Figure two showing how random parts of the filament is thicker than others. The thickness is noticeable and once I cut this section off, filament flows freely through the Bowden tube without friction. With this section, the filament is difficult to remove and requires more force.
I have tried:
* increasing the interface thickness to 0.4 from 0.27 mm and from 0.4 to 1.0 mm
* increasing the print speed from 50 mm/s to 90 mm/s allowing the printer to cool off. decreasing the temperature to 190 °C
During the print, I have noticed that the heat sink is hot to the touch during the raft creation but cools off once the fan starts spinning.
The fan does not spin at all during the creation of the raft. But spins at full speed once the actual print has begun. Longer does not have a setting inside their software to change this.
I have gotten a few really small prints to work with print surfaces smaller than 2 cm wide
The prints themselves turn out great if they get past the raft stage (only for small prints). This additionally leads me to believe that heat creep is the problem and that the fan not being on is the cause.
Let me know if you have any ideas.
# Answer
> I have noticed that the heat sink is hot to the touch during the raft creation but cools off once the fan starts spinning.
The fan cooling the hot end should always be "on" when you start the printer, or at least cool the hot end when the print starts (it is possible if you use a Raspberry Pi and OctoPrint to control relays to have the fan switch on just before starting printing).
If not, the cold end (radiator) of the hot end gets to hot and your filament will soften way too soon. This phenomenon is called heat creep. Looking at the filament you pictured, heat creep is definitely a possible cause. Another good hint is the diminishing filament output.
It may be that the radiator cooling fan is accidentally connected to the incorrect port on the controller board. What you describe is a fan kicking in after the first layer of printing, this is typical behavior of the part cooling fan.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Your symptom sounds like heat creep might be stopping the extrusion. See if this discussion helps you troubleshoot: Understanding all the ways to avoid heat creep
Note: decreasing speed and increasing temperature makes heat creep worse.
Your picture of filament shows what people with Bowden extruders describe as typical of heat creep. The Bowden tube isolates the filament drive motor from the temperature of the extruder. On well put together Bowden tube extruder, there is no place for softened filament to bunch up. So, heat creep occurs when the melted filament goes up the region of the heat break in the heat sink. Thus, to determine heat creep one needs to ask, "Is the expanded part of the filament extending into the heatsink.
> 0 votes
# Answer
As you can see on picture 1, on the left-bottom side there is extruded less material than on the right-top side. This, to me, is an indication that your bed might not be flat. When the left-bottom side is a few microns closer to the nozzle than the right-top side, the nozzle will push onto the bed and that prevents it from extruding. A sign of this will be extruder skipping. As you mentioned, keeping the fan at least running slowly during raft creation is always a good idea.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: extruder, underextrusion, drive-gear
---
|
thread-15797
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15797
|
Z offset not working after flashing TH3D firmware
|
2021-03-05T05:02:39.900
|
# Question
Title: Z offset not working after flashing TH3D firmware
I had the BLTouch (3.1) working with stock firmware on an Ender 3 v2 but wanted to get a 5x5 mesh instead of the 3x3 so I installed the TH3D firmware. With the stock firmware my Z-offset was -2.95 mm.
After installing TH3D firmware, my Z-offset has to be in excess of -6 mm to reach the same nozzle-to-bed height. I've tried setting the Z-offset via LCD and through G-code, saving to EEPROM. I'm having 2 problems with this that I assume are connected:
1. Z-offset seems to not be applied when setting Z axis position. When I autohome and then set Z axis to 0, even the extended probe from the BLTouch does not touch the bed (it's actually 1-2 mm away from touching). And this is with the Z-offset set to -6 mm.
2. I tried running a print, which includes an ABL request (`G29`), the print head crashed into the bed immediately after finishing levelling. My hunch is that when starting to print the -6 mm Z-offset starts being correctly taken into account.
Could this be the result of something I did in the Configuration.h when compiling the firmware?
I made the following changes:
CrealityV42X/Firmware/Marlin/Configuration.h
* Line 24: uncommented `#define ENDER3_V2_V422_BOARD`
* Line 43: uncommented `#define CUSTOM_PROBE`
* Line 66: changed `#define EZABL_POINTS` from 3 to 5
* Line 124: changed `#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET` from `{ 10, 10, 0}` to `{ -44, -6, 0 }`
* Line 233: uncommented `#define BLTOUCH`
* Line 235: uncommented `#define SERVO0_PIN PB0`
* Line 636: commented out `#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN`
* Line 636: added `#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING`
In Configuration\_backend.h the only change I made was increasing `Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN` from -5 to -20.
# Answer
> 5 votes
I'm pretty sure something is wrong with the firmware I downloaded. I flashed the 3/5/21 version of Marlin firmware from https://marlin.crc.id.au/ and it is somehow working better with the LCD firmware (which I got from TH3D), the Z offset is working as it should, and the leveling process has more points and goes faster.
# Answer
> 2 votes
A friend and I ran into this problem with TH3D and this was the workaround for **our** situation. Pretty sure I know what's causing it, but I haven't had the chance to rebuild the firmware yet to test it.
Autohome, update your bed mesh, either through the menu or via the terminal with `G28` & `G29`. Store settings via menu or `M500` via terminal.
Reboot/power cycle the printer, autohome/`G28`, and insert `M420 S` into your print file G-code **after** `G28`.
Let me know if it works.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Do you still have this issue? My Ender with a BLTouch won't respect the Z-off set setting in **Motion** \> **Control** \> **ZOffset**. You can change it to -10 and it will still start printing about 1 cm above the bed.
All of this started to happen after I used **Bed Leveling** from the prepare menu. To work around the issue, I reset the settings **Initialize EPROM** in the control menu.
1. Reset All settings **Initialize EPROM**
2. Set the Z-offset (In my case -3.3)
3. Store settings in the control menu
4. Switch off the printer (settings won't take effect even if you select to load settings)
Then start printing. This doesn't solve the issue because it defeats the purpose of having a BLTouch in the first place. but at least I'm able to print again.
In a nutshell, avoiding auto bed leveling does the trick (or at least in my case)
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bltouch, th3d
---
|
thread-20099
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20099
|
Is a thermoplastic's glass state relevant for 3D printing extrusion?
|
2022-10-20T17:26:06.080
|
# Question
Title: Is a thermoplastic's glass state relevant for 3D printing extrusion?
From my understanding of FFF 3D printing, the glass state is usually used to heat the bed for better first layer adhesion. Other than that, does the extruder keep ex:PLA in a glass state for any reason?
Is the transition of the filament straight from solid to liquid for extrusion without any real regard for the glass state?
# Answer
*Note that the extruder feeds filament it doesn't heat anything, you don't want heat in the extruder. The hot end is the part that adds heat well over the glass temperature.*
The glass transition temperature, the temperature where the material transitions from a brittle "glassy" state into a viscous or rubbery state, is always lower than the melting temperature. This temperature is of importance for adhesion to the bed; in a rubbery state the stresses are much lower than in a brittle state.
> Is a thermoplastic's glass state relevant for 3D printing extrusion?
* No, the glass transition temperature is not directly important for the extrusion, the extrusion temperature (where the filament is fluid enough for deposition and adhesion) is much higher than the glass temperature.
* Yes, the glass transition temperature may play a role in the hot end in case of heat creeping up the cold end (usually some kind of radiator or heat dissipating element; usually connected through the heat-break), but not necessarily in melting the filament for extrusion. Heat creeping up with excessive retraction may cause filament to (partially or fully) clog and as such influence the extrusion.
> 2 votes
# Answer
The transition from solid to liquid is the important part.
The bed is heated for adhesion and kept heated for the same reason, but the extruder is a lot hotter and just performs the task of solid to liquid, the fans and ambient temperature cool it to solid.
Once a layer is solid it will heat up again when the next layer goes on it both from heat radiating from the nozzle and the liquid plastic going on it. This should give better layer adhesion.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, filament, extruder, 3d-design, hotend
---
|
thread-20240
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20240
|
Metal insert of 3D print with solder cup
|
2022-11-23T14:35:05.120
|
# Question
Title: Metal insert of 3D print with solder cup
These are metal inserts for 3D prints:
What I want to do is use them as a connector. A metal pin will insert them (the male connector) and it will have contact with the metal inserts.
I just want to have connectivity with a PCB as well, via soldering cables.
So my question is, are there metal inserts that have outputs where I can solder wires? Or, maybe metal inserts that end up as a solder cup?
For reference, these are solder cups:
EDIT: Perhaps if i add the dimensions of the male pin, it can make the process of answering easier.
The male pin is `2.3 mm wide` and `6mm high`.
# Answer
You are looking for heat-insert female sockets...
JST-connectors don't exist as heat set parts, but you could include a void for the socket to go in.
You can buy DuPont-style cups that lead to a thin pin, which then is pushed into the female connector. Those contain a piece that acts as a spring to ensure good connectivity. Those female connectors don't exist as heat-set but can be bought without a plastic shroud for mounting in your own hardware with defined holes by physical interaction with the shell.
What you want is an insert that is not threaded but has one or more springs on the inside that press on the pin, akin to a phone connector shown below, where the metal "legs" connect to the different sections and one at the base acts as locking. The most simple design of this type would be a mono plug that also offers ground and a way to give a solid connection between the parts. However, the design of the needed springy bits inside makes it impossible for these to exist as a heat-insert - you can't heat these evenly or melt a path.
The only way to ensure good contact with a connecter that can be heat-set would either require the pin to screw into the insert, or the pin to be spring-loaded against a flat insert. The latter can be done by either using a solid metal slug as an inset or by retrofitting a normal inset with a screw that creates such a surface. However, spring-loaded connectors require some sort of physical interlock to get the parts in position and securely connected.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: post-processing
---
|
thread-20242
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20242
|
Cut a Möbius strip in four parts with interlocking
|
2022-11-23T19:02:47.817
|
# Question
Title: Cut a Möbius strip in four parts with interlocking
I'm a beginner with OpenSCAD. I use to work with Rhino, but I have no more license and the new Fablab I'm working with uses OpenSCAD, so I'm learning OpenSCAD now.
The picture below shows what I want to do, I need this to be able to 3D print several parts to get a larger Möbius strip.
I found these scripts:
```
1. /*
2. * Möbius Strip
3. *
4. * r: radius of strip
5. * w: width of strip
6. * t: thickness of strip
7. *
8. * The model uses $fs to adjust the smoothness.
9. */
10. module moebius_strip(r = 1, w = 1, t = 1) {
11. step = $fs;
12. for(azimuth = [0 : step : 360]) {
13. x = r * cos(azimuth);
14. y = r * sin(azimuth);
15. translate([x, y, 0]) {
16. rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth]) {
17. cube([t, step, w], center=true);
18. }
19. }
20. }
21. }
22.
23. $fs = 0.5;
24.
25. moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 15, t = 1);
```
This one above is working and I found another one for the split :
```
module mycut() {
translate([x,y,z]) cube([w,l,h]);
}
difference() {
myobject();
mycut();
}
translate([u,v,w])
intersection() {
myobject();
mycut();
}
```
I simply don't know how to use those scripts together. Can someone explain to me a little bit about how I can manage this? Don't forget that I'm a beginner!
# Answer
# Cutting to pieces
To cut the ring into pieces you can take the intersection() of the object and the quadrant of interest (e.g. using a cube, but a wedge would have worked as well).
```
/*
* Möbius Strip
*
* r: radius of strip
* w: width of strip
* t: thickness of strip
*
* The model uses $fs to adjust the smoothness.
*/
module moebius_strip(r = 1, w = 1, t = 1) {
step = $fs;
for(azimuth = [0 : step : 360]) {
x = r * cos(azimuth);
y = r * sin(azimuth);
translate([x, y, 0]) {
rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth]) {
cube([t, step, w], center=true);
}
}
}
}
$fs = 0.5;
xloc=[0,1,-1,-1,1];
yloc=[0,1,1,-1,-1];
//quadrant = 4; // 1, 2, 3 or 4
for(quadrant = [1 : 1 : 4])
intersection(){
translate([xloc[quadrant]*10,yloc[quadrant]*10,0]) moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 15, t = 1);
translate([xloc[quadrant]*10,yloc[quadrant]*10,-(30+15/2)/2]) rotate([0,0,(quadrant-1)*90]) cube(30+15/2);
}
```
Since tabs and slots are requested, we need to make some adjustments.
# Add/subtract tabs to piece
All that is left to do is to cutout a "rectangular" shape at the interfaces. For that we glue or union() a tab on one side and extrude or difference() a tab on the other side, a wedge is used for the intersection() with a smaller sized width Mobius strip.
```
echo(version=version());
//debug = 0;
//explode = $preview ? 0.1 : 0.0;
//$fn = $preview ? 90 : 360;
//nearly_zero = $preview ? 0.005: 0.0;
tol = 0.01;
/*
* Möbius Strip
*
* r: radius of strip
* w: width of strip
* t: thickness of strip
*
* The model uses $fs to adjust the smoothness.
*/
module moebius_strip(r = 1, w = 1, t = 1) {
step = $preview ? 2 : 0.5;
for(azimuth = [0 : step : 360]) {
x = r * cos(azimuth);
y = r * sin(azimuth);
translate([x, y, 0]) {
rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth]) {
cube([t, step, w], center=true);
}
}
}
}
module wedge(h,r,a)
{
th=(a%360)/2;
difference()
{
cylinder(h=h,r=r,center=true);
if(th<90)
{
for(n=[-1,1])rotate(-th*n)translate([(r+0.5)*n,0,0])
cube(size=[r*2+1,r*2+1,h+1],center=true);
}
else
{
intersection()
{
rotate(-th)translate([(r+0.5),(r+0.5),0])
cube(size=[r*2+1,r*2+1,h+1],center=true);
rotate(th)translate([-(r+0.5),(r+0.5),0])
cube(size=[r*2+1,r*2+1,h+1],center=true);
}
}
}
}
xloc=[0,1,-1,-1, 1]; // vector indexed by the quadrant, negative value is the negative x-axis
yloc=[0,1, 1,-1,-1]; // vector indexed by the quadrant, negative value is the negative y-axis
offsetVal=0; // can be used to explode the view
quadrant = 1; // 1, 2, 3 or 4 resp. for xy, -xy, -x-y or x-y
//for(quadrant = [1 : 1 : 4]){ // now commented to used single single quadrant
difference(){ // for extruding the tab
union(){ // for adding the tab
intersection(){
translate([xloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,yloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,0]) moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 15, t = 1); // Mobius belt
translate([xloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,yloc[quadrant]*offsetVal,-(30+15/2)/2]) rotate([0,0,(quadrant-1)*90]) cube(30+15/2); // quadrant cube
}
intersection(){
moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 7.5, t = 1); // Mobius belt with smaller width
rotate([0,0,(quadrant-1)*90]){
wedge((30+15/2), (30+15/2), 10); // intersect with wedge to get a tab that extends the quadrant piece
}
}
}
intersection(){
moebius_strip(r = 30, w = 7.5, t = 1+tol); // Mobius belt with smaller width and increased thickness for better cutting out negative tab
rotate([0,0,(quadrant-2)*90]){
wedge((30+15/2), (30+15/2), 10); // intersect with wedge to get a tab that extrudes the quadrant piece
}
}
}
//}
```
Note that this takes some time to render (F6), the preview (F5) didn't even show because of too much elements. Just change the value of `quadrant = 1;` to 2, 3 or 4 for the other segments.
---
*Please note that the image from the question is not what is created with the Mobius script, to generate that object `rotate([0, azimuth/2, azimuth])` needs to be changed to `rotate([0, azimuth, azimuth]`)*
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, openscad, pre-processing
---
|
thread-20245
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20245
|
Vertical holes: round vs hexagonal
|
2022-11-24T19:20:51.553
|
# Question
Title: Vertical holes: round vs hexagonal
Please reference the following page on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5600770
This is an insert for a bandsaw (the replaceable part that the blade passes through in the middle of the bandsaw's table), with holes to allow for dust to fall down and also be pulled down by airflow from a shop vacuum or dust collector.
I am modeling my own version of this with my specific dimensions, but I thought I'd ask if it would be easier for the 3d printer to do round holes instead of the hexagonal ones.
(For reference, the printer that I have access to is a Prusa i3 MK3S+, with a 0.4 mm nozzle).
Edit: The fluidity of movement being better for circles is what I was expecting. When doing a circle, each small segment of straight line is only slightly different than the previous one, whereas the hexagonal hole would require abrupt changes. In my case, the final appearance is not critical since it's just to let dust fall through. The version with circular holes might be a bit stronger as it removes a bit less material. I used OpenSCAD to create the model, since my geometry is pretty straightforward. I was starting to mess around with FreeCAD (out of curiosity) but then I remembered that in OpenSCAD I used the trick of 'facet numbers = 6' to get the hexagons, so I just changed those to 60 (thank goodness for being able to define and use variables) to have the same placement of holes.
The printer isn't mine, it's in a public library and I don't want to abuse it so I will only print the one with circular holes.
# Answer
The g-code that drives a 3D printer, with some exceptions, converts circles to multiple segments of straight lines, very short straight lines. There is going to be a greater amount of math to be performed on many circles, while one could consider that if the hexagonal segments are sliced in a suitable manner, the result is going to be more linear, with lower demands in the mathematics aspect.
That's one aspect of the difference. Another aspect is the fluidity of movement. You may get a smoother extrusion with the circles as the travel distance versus speed is going to be more uniform in creating a circle, while creating a hexagon will result in a speed change at the corner.
It's only one person's opinion, but I feel that it's half of one, six dozen of the other. You get a trade-off from the processing load with a hexagon, but you might get a better appearance with the circles.
If you are creating your own design (good!), would it be more difficult to create one of each? What program are you using to create this work?
> 4 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3
---
|
thread-20247
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20247
|
My extruder failed. Is there any hope to recover print?
|
2022-11-25T07:45:19.720
|
# Question
Title: My extruder failed. Is there any hope to recover print?
Yesterday I had filament that entangled on the spool and before I knew it, the printer told me to eject the filament. Unfortunately, then the filament broke. There is no way to fully unload it, no way to load new piece.
Long story short, I need to disassemble extruder-hotend assembly and fix whatever is broken. I'll manage, it's simple mechanical and electrical issue and I know my way around it. But, is there any chance to recover that print?
I'm lucky it failed at about the end of a layer. It's 0.3 mm layer height, so I can even use calipers to find out how many layers I do have. But how would I go about it now?
I used PrusaSlicer and the printer is a Prusa i3 MK3s+ so any specific guidance would be appreciated, but general guidance is also welcome.
# Answer
> 3 votes
In order to "resume" a failed print like this, you can edit the prints .gcode file accordingly.
1. Measure the height at which the print failed
2. Open the file, and search for when the printer starts the corresponding layer. How to search for this differs from slicer to slicer. In SuperSlicer, it's "move to next layer (XYZ)". Searching for moves to the desired Z height might work too, but beware of false positives if you still use "Z hop" for some reason. You may want to choose the layer above the measured height as a starting point since the nozzle might scrape over the printed parts if you try to print the same layer again.
3. Delete everything from the line which moves the printer to the first layer up to when it moves to the layer you wish to resume printing from.
If you use mesh bed leveling, you'll need to remove that too - or the printer might probe into the existing print. If your start G-code contains moves that might make the print head interfere with the existing print, remove that too.
Also: Make sure the print head moves to the desired Z height *before* starting to move to the print area (on X and Y) - otherwise, it might again crash into the print.
4. Start the print as usual and pray.
You'll be likely to see some defects/imperfections on the failed layer, but the print as a whole should be salvageable in most cases.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, print-failure
---
|
thread-18603
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18603
|
How to print a cylinder with hundreds of small holes?
|
2021-12-20T09:52:05.640
|
# Question
Title: How to print a cylinder with hundreds of small holes?
I'd like to print a cylinder, 50 mm diameter, 200 mm long, with 1.5 mm diameter holes tightly fit like this:
The holes go all the way through from top to bottom.
I am using a Prusa i3 MK3S. With 0.1 mm detail and 20 % infill, printing one cylinder is going to take 5 days and 5 hours. I need at least five cylinders.
* Is the above setting appropriate for this job?
* Is there any way I can reduce the printing time?
# Answer
> 6 votes
# That's a hell of a print!
You are printing a model that has a highly complex structure there, with about 650ish holes, assuming there is space for about 2 perimeters between each hole.
Taking my standard 0.3 mm layer height and 0.4 mm nozzle using a 0.45 mm wide line, I sliced a 10mm high slice of the model for a first estimate of the expected print time - and came out with 2:21 hours. That means the expected print time with 0.3 mm layer height is in the area of 47 hours - or just about 2 days.
As a result, 5 days and 5 hours are in the order I'd expect from a 0.1 mm layer height print for the same nozzle, in fact, your settings seem to have a faster print speed than I do work with.
In general, I don't think this model is good for FDM printing at all, due to many non-fully formed lines inside the model (yellow) and the red perimeters being a very dense pattern.
## Solutions?
### Print faster
You might get a faster speed with a high-flow solution, for example, using a long melt zone (volcano-style) or an even higher flow core-heating 3DSolex nozzle. The latter originally only comes in 0.6 mm and up, also mandating fewer holes, but in late 2021 CHT nozzles in 0.4 mm came to the market. This could drop print time some, but it'd still be a several days print job.
### Reduced pattern
Besides increasing layer height to drop printing time by the same factor, reducing the number of holes and as a result, spacing them further apart not only can increase the print speed but also make the print form more reliable.
Another alternative would be to alter the pattern from a circle to a hexagonal pattern: by using hexagons, the resulting pattern does not contain thin walls and might print much faster - depending on hole size, you might experience a drop by a factor of 2!
### Printed differently
Going from FDM printing to a system such as SLS might be faster and more reliable while SLA/DLP would make this print not only fast and reliable but also trivial - if one can get a 200 mm high SLA/DLP printer, all three models should be able to be printed in one go at the same time!
# Answer
> 2 votes
Late to the party, but for other people that stumble here with a similar problem i've seen a lot of people use a 0 top layers, 0 bottom layers settings to expose infill structure. That with a suitable infill pattern might give you a different slicing that might be faster to print.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Holes, circles, and curves are slow to print, and get slower as the number of wall segments increase.
Ideally you'd use square holes, but hexagonal-sided ones would be a fair compromise too.
Your slicer should be able to give a breakdown on the times for each kind of line in the part. Check and see how much of the time is spent on "moves".
Is there a reason for using all these little holes? Fewer, larger holes will provide better airflow and require less printing, up to the ultimate of one single large hole, where you're essentially printing a pipe/tube.
Do you need the holes to go right-through? Printing a big "cup" with holes across the floor, and separately a "lid" then gluing them together would be quicker and you have one large hole in the middle. If this idea works, you might prefer to just buy plastic pipe of a suitable size, and print only endcaps.
Additionally, if you're printing 5 cylinders because you need a metre total length, then printing two endcaps for a 1 metre piece of plastic PVC pipe should take a couple of hours at most. And it will save you a lot of filament.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, speed
---
|
thread-19499
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19499
|
Bulging on distinctive lengths along the X-Axis (on all layers)
|
2022-06-04T14:23:15.167
|
# Question
Title: Bulging on distinctive lengths along the X-Axis (on all layers)
I have massive print-quality issues on my Anycubic Vyper.
As you can see on the first, third and fourth image, there is some sort of bulging or shifting happening. The issue seems to be related to the x-Axis. I took the printer apart and inspected the whole axis. No issues were found. The carriage moves uniformly, until it enters the area where the bulging happens. Then it suddenly has a lot less resistance and it feels as if it "slides" into a small detent. I can't feel any issues on the extrusion though.
I can't feel these "detents" when the belts are properly tightened and I move the carriage by hand. There is no sudden massive resistance or anything.
I have tried all sort of different levels of tightness of the eccentric nut. Ranging from stock (problem was there out of the box) to loose to really tight. The problem stays. I have also re-oriented the bowden tube, it didn't change anything.
The first major bulge is slightly to the right of the center. Left of it no problems were experienced.
What's the issue and how can I fix it?
# Answer
> -1 votes
Maybe try greasing the wheels. I've had a similar effect on a printer that I hadn't used for years. After reassembling it, the x carriage moved freely except at a few points, which were always at the same position. I had to apply more force to get past these points. I don't know whether that's your problem, but it sounds like. I greased the wheel's axles with a drop of oil at each wheel, and now it's running fine again.
---
Tags: marlin, y-axis, x-axis, carriage
---
|
thread-20230
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20230
|
Design Considerations for Large Overhangs
|
2022-11-20T14:33:59.757
|
# Question
Title: Design Considerations for Large Overhangs
When designing for 3d FDM printing, I'm wondering what is best practice for items with large overhangs which cannot have (or would be fairly impractical) support structures. Consider my following design:
This item is about 7" long, and you'll notice the narrow slot running through the middle of it. The slot is 0.100" wide.
I was about to print this when I suddenly realized printing it would be a problem. So I started messing around with painting on supports, but since something slides in this slot, I would have to do some extensive cleanup to make sure it's smooth.
What I ended up doing was splitting the body at the start of the overhang, and placing some alignment pins in the body (with corresponding holes in the upper portion of the body. e.g.
I will print the top and bottom separately and glue them together.
My question is whether this is my only option or if I'm missing something in the design process which might work better? This design is in Fusion360, in case that matters when discussing some specific tools that are available which I'm unaware of.
# Answer
When constructing a model intended to be 3D printed, your approach is sound. Overhangs and the required supports can be a severe problem and I believe your assessment is accurate.
The complexity of the upper portion would make printed supports an inappropriate path for the reasons you've provided, while your solution eliminates all the negative aspects of this model's construction/design.
The split as presented turns an excessively supported print into two completely unsupported, easily-printed sections. The alignment pins are the perfect approach as well.
You've not indicated an aversion to adhesive, another plus in the overall assessment. Printing the model(s) in the orientation displayed is going to provide the most strength from the plastic. In some models, one can change the orientation to eliminate or reduce supports, but too often the layer direction change results in a weaker object. Your split design removes that factor as well.
> 5 votes
# Answer
While slicing into slabs and the use of alignment pins is a perfectly viable solution, including the alignment features organically into a single print can make assembly faster. In this case, the model itself acts as an alignment feature or might even act as the clamp, at the cost of creating a more complex cut. An additional benefit of a more complex cut is the elimination of separate alignment pins and getting the glue surfaces away from parts that need a critical dimension
As an example, I used an approximation of your model and shifted the cut layer around some (more complex) to get a natural left-right alignment feature from the deep cut, and then added a high "peak" on the model to act as a front-back alignment feature. The yellow faces ensure alignment in this case, and the red faces are main glue faces.
Also, keep in mind point orientation can alter things *a lot*: printing on the "back" as we both modeled, the slot needs support. However, there is an orientation that remove the need to support the slot's top and instead only requires support in the pocket, possibly eliminating the need for a two-part print at the cost of needing to remove the support in the area marked red, but which, as a pocket without undercuts, should be decently easy:
> 2 votes
# Answer
If your end product allows it, one possible solution would be to remodel your part so that instead of having a square channel in the center, the channel had sloping or curved sides so that the overhand was removed, and then to print out an infill piece that could be clotted into the channel to square it off.
In essence, you would turn the square channel into a triangular notch with shallow sides that didn't need supporting, and then you restore it to being square after it's printed.
This would also have the advantage of meaning that you could print the infill to a much higher standard than the rest of the print, so it was stronger.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, support-structures, fusion360
---
|
thread-20261
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20261
|
Configuring HD44780 LCD with I2C backpack in Marlin
|
2022-11-28T12:19:36.923
|
# Question
Title: Configuring HD44780 LCD with I2C backpack in Marlin
I'm making a custom control board based on an ESP32, and I'm currently stuck at trying to configure a 16x2 LCD in Marlin.
In `Configuration.h`, there's an option for a "Generic LCM1602 LCD adapter", which I've commented out. However, after searching thru everywhere in the source that came to my mind, I've yet to find any option for specifying the I2C pins or address the LCD backpack/adapter is connected to.
Could someone point me in the right direction, or where the LCD is instantiating, so I can modify the respective lines to make it work with my LCD? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
# Answer
## I2C connection
I may have not researched enough, or maybe I've mis-read various articles, but using I2C would seem to be (much) more tricky that a straightforward non-I2C connection, and might be a project unto itself. Unless you have a lot of time on your hands - or a need to minimise the number of pins used - it might not be worth the bother, and using a regular 1602 display instead probably makes more sense.
### G-code
*This seems experimental, and possibly suffering from a lack of documentation*.
There are two G-code commands, `M260` \- I2C Send and `M261` \- I2C Request that require `EXPERIMENTAL_I2CBUS`. The second link refers to an I2C master/slave article, by unfortunately, no link is provided (Ed. - if someone knows the link, then please edit it in).
### configuration.h
*This seems to be most promising option*.
The Marlin configuration page, Configuring Marlin, shows two interesting tables for I2C displays:
This is the LiquidCrystal I2C library that is referred to above each table.
### A Marlin issue on Github
*This also seems hopeful*.
This post on I2C in Arduino for Marlin #10399,
> 1. It's not too intensive. Many peripherals use i2c.
> 2. Marlin uses Wire on most platforms. Enable `EXPERIMENTAL_I2CBUS` for a simplified interface in Marlin, and check out this thread (Dual Serial Port #4776 (comment)) for insights into using i2c to talk to a second board.
> 3. Yes, you can send data over i2c anytime. See the aforementioned thread for more insights into using the `EXPERIMENTAL_I2CBUS` to test i2c communication.
### A working example
*This option might be overkill*.
This blog, I2C Port Expander & LCD working with Marlin, actually has a working example of an I2C 2004 LCD. It also lists the changes required for `configuration.h`
However, unfortunately, it requires an additional DIY I2C port expander PCB, which employs a MCP23017, which is detailed here, I2C port expander driving an LCD screen, click encoder and more.
An example of the revised v2.1 PCB is shown in a subsequent blog, Panelolu2
This requirement of additional hardware maybe more that you had expected. However, you could just use a breadboard to make this interface board (port expander).
## Non-I2C connection
According to this post on the RepRap forums, MARLIN - generic LCD 16x2 (Megatronics 2 board), the pins are defined in `../Marlin/src/pins/pins.h` (the name of the file is a bit of a giveaway).
---
The following *might* be useful as it shows the lines to change... but it obviously depends upon your board and upon whether your 1602 LCD has buttons or not.
For the Megatronics 2 board the lines and pin numbers seem to be as follows (from the final post):
> what it is now in Marlin:
>
> ```
> #define SHIFT_CLK 38
> #define SHIFT_LD 42
> #define SHIFT_OUT 40
> #define SHIFT_EN 17
>
> #define LCD_PINS_RS 16
> #define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17
> #define LCD_PINS_D4 23
> #define LCD_PINS_D5 25
> #define LCD_PINS_D6 27
> #define LCD_PINS_D7 29
> */
>
> ```
>
> what it should be:
>
> ```
> #define SHIFT_CLK 63
> #define SHIFT_LD 42
> #define SHIFT_OUT 17
> #define SHIFT_EN 7
>
> #define LCD_PINS_RS 14
> #define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 15
> #define LCD_PINS_D4 30
> #define LCD_PINS_D5 31
> #define LCD_PINS_D6 32
> #define LCD_PINS_D7 33
>
> ```
Worth noting from this post:
> I think the ULTRA\_LCD is not the same as a generic 16x2 lcd without buttons.
---
### Additional reading
Another link (on the same forum) that may be useful is How Do I Configure Pinouts For A LCD.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: marlin, lcd-screen
---
|
thread-20265
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20265
|
3D printing a part without experience in 3D design
|
2022-11-28T21:23:04.737
|
# Question
Title: 3D printing a part without experience in 3D design
I have a height-adjustable table, but the height cannot be adjusted as a gear in the motor has worn out cogs and it will not spin. The motor is functional so the only thing I need is to somehow get a that particular part. I have tried searching for the motor itself on eBay, and I found one, but it would cost more than the table did and I dont want to do that unless I know there is no other option.
I am inserting some images of the part and the engine
What I am searching/asking for, is some kind of database where I might find the 3D design or something like that. I have been trying to learn AutoCAD or a similar design tool, but for a beginner level this seems too complicated.
# Answer
## The part is ill-suited for FDM plastic printing due to design
The part can certainly be printed on an FDM machine, but injection molded nylon is one of the best gear materials to begin with, and they fail in a very controlled manner that limits damage. PLA would shatter, ABS can't hold such loads, ASA is super hard to print...
## The part might be usable if SLS printed
Nylon powder printing using Solid Laser Smelting might produce an appropriate replacement part, though of a slightly lesser quality than injection molded.
## Check if you can find it in a catalog
Often, these are industry-standard parts. Some of the biggest catalogs for industry standard parts, that also offer 3D models are McMaster-Carr and RS Components. If you can dimension our the part you need, you might find that part on their catalogs. As the motor carries german text, I assume you're in Europe, so McMaster-Carr sadly doesn't deliver there, but their CAD catalogue is better.
## Look for replacement parts or refurbishing kits
Your part has a number on its label - It's an **OKIN OG 01**, with a specific design variant under its serial number. Used motors with gearboxes of this type sell for 30 €, and new motors with gearbox trade for 100-120 €... And their teeth gears are available as separate parts for about 15 €. The spare part listing I found incidentally shows that the gear you look at is a stack of two gears, one of them splined on the other:
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design
---
|
thread-20256
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20256
|
Marlin bed leveling compensation not working
|
2022-11-27T21:03:39.690
|
# Question
Title: Marlin bed leveling compensation not working
I have Ender 3 which I bought in 2018.
**Thigs I have done so far to the printer;**
* Installed a BIGTREETECH SKR V1.3 board.
* With TMC2130 drivers.
* Flashed the new Marlin 2.1.1 (Configuration.h and Configuration\_adv.h)
* Installed and configured ANTCLABS BLTouch v3.1
* Prints are sent through a Raspberry Pi 3b+ with OctoPrint 1.8.6
* I have mounted the heating plate on standoffs (not on springs).
* On top of the heating bed I have put a glass plate as my print surface.
* Leveled the X gantry (as per this video).
* Did the "probe Z offset wizard" (as per this video).
* Did ABL Visualizer update.
* Enabled baby stepping, but did not see an option when double clicking nor I see a menu item in "Tune" option.
**Issue;**
I'm having trouble getting my first layer perfect. As the front prints are loose and back prints are squashed to the build plate. Here is the first layer test print file.
If what I understood so far about ABL is correct, when printing with a uneven bed surface, the z height will be adjusted according the probed data. But in this test print looks like it is not being compensated.
Below is how my visualized bed mesh looks like (with those fixed standoffs).
# Answer
What can be read from the visualization of your bed geometry is that the left side (when facing the printer) of the X-axis is lower than the right side, so your plate is tilted.
> If what I understood so far about ABL is correct, when printing with a uneven bed surface, the Z height will be adjusted according the probed data.
Yes, true (see Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?), but that is a sales pitch, **you don't want the bottom of every print to be skew**! A probe is not meant for those skew plates it should be used for local dips and dents in the build plate. ABL (or UBL, see What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same?) will scan the geometry of the build plate, but **you still need to supply a bed as level as possible**. With the bed geometry results from the question, you need to level better! You should either shim the left side standoffs so that the bed is more level. A probe shouldn't have to compensate for the a skew plate, it can, but it should not. It is either wrongly trammed, or there is a hardware problem that is commonly found on these printers (X gantry is not parallel to the bed and has play, due to the cheap roller system and simple single driven lead screw design). *This is described below (to make a more complete answer) so that other readers that run into similar issues can use this information*
A possible alternative is that Looks like there is something wrong with your X-gantry, make sure the X-gantry is parallel to the bed, e.g. as seen in the following image:
This could be a result of lack of maintenance, considering the printer is from 2018, the frame needs to be checked. At the moment, the right side is closer (high X values), so either your bed is higher on the right side, but more likely (as you use fixed length stand-off's) the X gantry is tilting down on the right side (when facing the printer) and therefore reporting closer to the bed as if the bed is higher to the right, e.g. see adapted schematic:
This is a very common problem with the Ender 3 type, especially the single lead screw driven designs. To fix this permanently, installing a second lead screw is advised. As a quick fix, you need to inspect the complete roller system on both Z-axis posts and retighten them.
An excellent example of the problems with the X-gantry is shown in this video:
***This video is a very good example for the problems with the portal style printers that use rollers for guiding the gantry.** Look at the play in the (X-Z) gantry, this would cause the exact same bed visualization as posted in the question (note that the video is centered on the installation and software changes, but the printer used has seen better days and should have been maintained prior to installing bed leveling).*
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin
---
|
thread-20263
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20263
|
Old printed object deformed over time
|
2022-11-28T15:48:48.973
|
# Question
Title: Old printed object deformed over time
I have an Elegoo Mars.
I have printed a figure in Resin, but after some months I found this - the figure is as if it is not completely cured. The base is open (see picture below). it wasn't open before!
It was printed a month ago, I am not precisely sure. I think I only machine cured and sunlight.
How is this possible?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Those are cracks as a result of overstressing due internal stresses to further curing of the print over the course of time (stress cracks).
Most probably the print wasn't cured properly or slicing wasn't optimal.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You should probably cure more, but curing should not be complete during print, or the layer will not stick properly.
Also, when you cure with UV light or the sun after the print is completed, you can cure only up to a certain depth, likely around a couple of millimetres.
If your object was massive and you didn't "hollow it" then some resin got trapped inside it and it didn't cure properly initially. It may slowly cure later, but by the time the object cracks due to stress, some resin may still be liquid enough to cause the issue.
---
Tags: resin, elegoo-mars
---
|
thread-20233
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20233
|
Ender 3 Pro Direct Drive weird/small blobs?
|
2022-11-20T17:18:53.757
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro Direct Drive weird/small blobs?
I have an Ender 3 Pro with the direct drive upgrade, aluminum extruder (The same problem happened with the plastic one), double-sided bed default black on one side and PEI on the other (Happens with both), aluminum adjustment knobs for bed with better springs, and upgraded spool holder with ball bearings.
Things I have done to try to fix this:
* Add aluminum extruder
* Upgraded spool holder with ball bearings
* Calibrated my E-steps
* Upgraded firmware
* Stopped using OctoPi
* Switched build surface (The only one that I could try that I have on hand is glass but that didn't work the last time I tried it)
* Tightened belts
* Printed calibration cube
* Printed temp tower
* Printed retraction tower
* Printed retraction speed tower
* Looked up YouTube videos
* Cleaned motherboard (There was dust in there)
Those all failed and I have no idea what this is or how to get rid of it, please help.
Settings:
* Layer height: 0.2 mm (I haven't tried a different layer height)
* Print speed: 40 mm/s (I have tried slower/faster)
* Nozzle temperature: 195 °C (I have tried higher)
* Infill density: 15 % pattern: cubic (I have tried different infill patterns and density)
* Cooling: 100 %
I'm afraid there is literally nothing else I could possibly do at this point except replace/tune mechanical parts, which I have tried.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I bought a TL smoother which fixed the problem!
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, calibration, direct-drive
---
|
thread-20258
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20258
|
3D printing filament that can absorb photosensitive liquid
|
2022-11-28T02:04:34.673
|
# Question
Title: 3D printing filament that can absorb photosensitive liquid
I'm a student artist trying to use 3D printing in my practice a bit. I'm working with liquid light, which is essentially a photosensitive liquid that you can apply to surfaces and later develop in the darkroom. I'm hoping to do this on 3D models that I print and was looking for advice on a good filament to print with that would absorb the liquid light. The manufacturer of the liquid recommends using a semi-gloss or glossy clear polyurethane to treat nonabsorbent surfaces, but I was hoping to avoid this. Anything would be appreciated and helpful!
# Answer
PrusaSlicer (free, multi-platform) supports a feature known as fuzzy skin. Text below from linked page. Additionally, Cura slicer and Super Slicer also support this feature.
> The Fuzzy skin feature lets you create a rough fiber-like texture on the sides of your models. If enabled, the perimeter will be resampled with a random step size and each new sample point will be shifted inside or outside of the perimeter by a random length limited by the Fuzzy skin thickness. This simple algorithm produces surprisingly nice results suitable for tool handles or just to give the print surface a new interesting look or to hide print imprecisions. You can also use modifiers to apply fuzzy skin only to a portion of your model.
This would result in a roughened surface, if the right parameters were used, allowing surface tension to secure itself while the "outward" or fuzzy portion might prevent shearing or peeling.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament, filament-choice
---
|
thread-20275
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20275
|
Cura: Ensure wall thickness on curves
|
2022-12-01T09:11:56.933
|
# Question
Title: Cura: Ensure wall thickness on curves
Is it possible to tell Cura that the wall thickness should be equal not only horizontal but also on a vertical point of view?
Example: This is how it would look on a curve when I set wall thickness to 4:
# Answer
**No**, the definition of wall thickness is in horizontal direction, not vertical or perpendicular. The hint info of the "Wall Thickness" option describes this.
However, if you have very curved surfaces that require more walls, but you don't want to have all these walls in the whole print is use a technique described in question Different infill in the same part. This answer describes the use of a different infill percentage, but you can also change the amount of walls; so in these curved regions, you could locally increase the amount of walls, e.g.:
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing
---
|
thread-20278
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20278
|
Viability of Raspberry Pi 400 as Octoprint Server
|
2022-12-02T17:22:48.740
|
# Question
Title: Viability of Raspberry Pi 400 as Octoprint Server
This is a follow up question for What are viable substitutes for Raspberry Pi to run Octoprint or similar software for Prusa i3 MK3S+?
I was able to grab Raspberry Pi 400 for around $70, so at MSRP, and about half of the current pi 4b prices nowadays. Good deal given shortages, so I ordered it when it was available, and only now I started to think if I can really use it.
Thus, are there any special challenges to using Raspberry Pi 400 as OctoPrint server, and does it have any benefits over regular Pi 4B? Is there any ready-made manual about it I could use?
# Answer
The recommended hardware for OctoPi is listed as:
> Recommended hardware: Raspberry Pi 3B, 3B+, 4B or Zero 2. Expect print artifacts and long loading times with other options, especially when adding a webcam or installing third-party plugins.
Now if we compare the specification of the two Pi units:
| Raspberry Pi | Processor | RAM |
| --- | --- | --- |
| 400 | BCM2711 quad-core Cortex-A72 @ 1.8GHz | 4GB LPDDR4-3200 |
| 4B | BCM2711 quad-core Cortex-A72 @ 1.5GHz | 1GB, 2GB, 4GB, 8GB LPDDR4-3200 |
So they are very close in capabilities. The 4B has a slightly slower processor but does have the ability to have more RAM. The 400 does come with a keyboard but its feasibility would depend on your usage (probably not much for OctoPi).
Given the slight disparity in specs, the Raspberry Pi 400 should work fine for OctoPi.
> 2 votes
# Answer
While the server will work, there are some challenges.
Raspberry Pi 400 lacks the camera and screen connectors, specifically:
* 2-lane MIPI DSI display port
* 2-lane MIPI CSI camera port
so you can't use Pi screens and camera modules. You need to find compatible USB webcam if you want to make time lapse of your print or stream your build to oversee it. If you want to add a touch screen, you need to use HDMI+USB one, as most of the screens dedicated for Pi won't work without DSI port.
Pi 4b has:
* 2 × USB 3.0 ports
* 2 × USB 2.0 ports
Pi 400:
* 2 × USB 3.0
* 1 × USB 2.0
One of these will be, of course, occupied by the printer, so if you want to connect a touchscreen and webcam, with 4b you still have up to three usb ports free, when with 400 you are all out.
Built-in keyboard is somewhat redeeming quality, especially if you are old time console jockey and don't need a mouse or touchscreens, and 20% faster CPU is nothing to sneeze at if you want to use AI plugin to oversee your print. For end users not interested in any kind of hardware hacking, 400 being already assembled with case and cooling is a great benefit, too.
**In summary**: it's compatible, faster and more convenient for end users, but less hackable. It's also significantly cheaper during 2022/2023 Pi Shortage, sometimes being available at MSRP and in stock.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: octoprint, raspberry-pi
---
|
thread-20277
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20277
|
Missed hotend's thoat depth during install, is it too bad?
|
2022-12-02T16:33:17.783
|
# Question
Title: Missed hotend's thoat depth during install, is it too bad?
I replaced my hotend's thoat and I made a mistake I hope it's not fatal for the new install. After reassembling the hotend I left a marging of about 5mm of the throat out of the heatsink. I noticed something was off when leveling the bed and then confirmed it after seeing more underextrusion artifacts than expected on a test print. I fixed it but now I'm worried about the debris left by the pocket made when I missed the throat depth (see pic below)
The material used was PLA so that'll be most of the debris I guess. Is it that bad? I'm printing a second benchy right now which looks OK, but I'm worried about possible clogging in the future. This is an all-metal thoat, by the way
# Answer
It’s probably fine.
If you have it tightened down all the way now, you’ve squished most of the plastic out. You might burn up some plastic if your block gets too hot, but you could easily do that anyway. You might also have some issues with cold pulling and cold-ish unloading, but I wouldn’t expect it.
If you’re worried, your only recourse is to remove the nozzle and clean it out, probably while hot. Q-tips work fairly well for that. Unless you’re doing something fancier than PLA though, I think you’ll be fine.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: hotend
---
|
thread-20042
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20042
|
Single Line in same place on different models
|
2022-10-08T02:11:06.783
|
# Question
Title: Single Line in same place on different models
I just got an Ender 3 S1 Pro and I've done a few prints using fairly stock settings out of Cura. A few minor tweaks to Layer Height and Start temps. I've done some research but can't really find an example of this issue. If someone can give me some insight, that would be very helpful.
# Answer
If this defect is present in all your printed models, there most likely is something wrong with the mechanics of the printer. Check the rollers, the vertical posts and the screw. Make sure sure everything runs smoothly. Also look out for hitting external object near the printer like e.g. spool holders.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I had exactly the same problem, every print has had the same defect. What solved it for me was calibration. I calibrated the printer once, it was already better, then I calibrated it another time and it was gone.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-20290
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20290
|
Why is Filament reel rocking back and forth/drive gear is pulling and pushing filament repeatedly?
|
2022-12-06T05:29:45.297
|
# Question
Title: Why is Filament reel rocking back and forth/drive gear is pulling and pushing filament repeatedly?
I have a monoprice Voxel 3. I am having an issue where the gear grabbing the filament at the roll is pulling the filament, then pushing it back, causing the roll to rock back and forth. It also makes an "putt" sort of noise, when it pushes the filament back. I have observed the mechanism in the filament compartment, the toothed gear is rocking back and forth.
The printer also makes the "putt putt" noise without the gear rocking.
# Answer
That is quite normal behavior, what you are experiencing is called retraction. This is an opposite direction of the extrusion of the filament. Extrusion unrolls the spool, retraction pushes the filament back causing the filament to become hanging loose or rocking the spool.
Retraction is necessary to prevent unwanted filament from leaking or oozing out the nozzle. Basically, retraction stops the melted or almost-melted filament from coming out the nozzle. Insufficient retraction (length) causes a problem called "stringing" or leakage from filament from the nozzle (which can catch parts of the print where you do not want material to deposit), too much retraction may cause your hot end to clog/block. The amount of retraction depends on the extruder type (direct or Bowden driven).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: flashforge-adventurer-3
---
|
thread-20292
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20292
|
Repurpose extruder pin(s) for a parts cooling fan?
|
2022-12-06T11:09:21.350
|
# Question
Title: Repurpose extruder pin(s) for a parts cooling fan?
I recently picked up a second hand/defective 'Renkforce RF100' printer. A pretty obscure German brand. The problem with it was: broken hotend fan cable which caused clogging that the previous user was unable to fix. I have thoroughly cleaned the hotend, rewired the fan and now it works again.
The mainboard it used is not very well known, designated as **MPX.3** which seems similar to this HICTOP brand RAMPS 1.4 board. Renkforce's documentation is very sparse. Through some digging I found a GitHub repo with some customizable Marlin firmware and this diagram:
No real circuit diagram to be found for this specific Renkforce board, however. It does look similar to the MKS Base 1.0 board. As you can see, it has support for up to two extruders, a fan and a heated bed ("EEFB"). Only one extruder (E0, labeled **5** on the picture above) is in use on this printer.
---
Here is where I need some advice:
I would like to add a part cooling fan to this printer. Right now, only the hotend fan (40 mm, 12 V 0.15 A) is connected to the 'Fan' (labeled **7** in the picture above) header on the board and it will run at 100 % as soon as the hotend reaches \>50 °C. Now, I could of course wire the hotend and parts cooling fans together, but I would like to have separate control over the parts cooling fan, in order to only run it at specific times (e.g. ramp it up after the first few layers are printed).
**My question**: Could I, for instance, just screw the parts cooling fan leads into the spare extruder terminal (E1) and re-program the firmware to let it know that that pin (D7, labeled **6** on the picture above) is a FAN\_PIN? Which I could then ideally address/control with the G-code `M106`. In a sense I would repurpose the E1 terminal for a fan - do I need to worry about (fire) safety here? Since it's an extruder terminal? Or is that terminal "simply" a 12 V connection that I can connect to whatever? Do I need to add a MOSFET next to the terminal? Or am I overthinking this and should I use another position / pin on the board? This is really the limit of my electronics knowledge right now and safety is a primary concern. Any input is appreciated!
Edit for future reference: this GitHub repo has a modern (at the time of writing) version of Marlin suitable for this printer.
# Answer
> 1 votes
> In a sense I would repurpose the E1 terminal for a fan - do I need to worry about (fire) safety here?
No, fans do not use much power, heater cartridges do.
Considering the fifth stepper driver is not installed, this board is not equipped for using the E1 heater port/terminal in its current state.
E.g, the MOSFET for the E1 heater is not installed (E0 and the bed MOSFET are installed):
> Or is that terminal "simply" a 12 V connection that I can connect to whatever?
No, it is a PWM controlled terminal by the microprocessor, however, the VCC and GND of the MOSFET connection holes should be connected, so will deliver 12 V.
> Do I need to add a MOSFET next to the terminal?
Yes, if you want the firmware to control the speed.
The chance that the microprocessor is connected to the MOSFET gate port is quite big. I don't think that this board has missing traces from the processor to the peripherals.
So, you could repurpose the pin that is dedicated to driving the E1 MOSFET, but, you should not run the fan directly from that pin. You should solder a MOSFET or add an external MOSFET module to protect the processor of over-current.
Changes to the firmware are simple, you need to add the correct port to the functioning of the fan, you may find some help in question Controlling more fans with RAMPS board or here How to use second hotend for bed heating? (this may be helpful to modify the sources, or ask another question).
---
Tags: marlin, ramps-1.4, electronics, print-fan
---
|
thread-20288
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20288
|
Do you ground your motherboard and screen?
|
2022-12-06T02:07:30.243
|
# Question
Title: Do you ground your motherboard and screen?
I bought a 12V 33.3A switching power supply for my DIY 3d printer, it looks like this:
I connect all of the L, N, EGND to outlet. When I flashing firmware, I got electrical shocks several times from SD slot and screen in one hour. It is so frequent so I do not think it is static electric discharge.
When measuring around using AC voltage mode of multimeter, I found touching one probe and another probe connected to DC+ or DC-, it measures 3-4 volts. When I measure AC voltage between EGND and DC output, it reads around 28-30 volts. Is this why I got electric shocks? Should I connect DC- to EGND dirctly to prevent this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
### TL; DR
You could try, powering off and connecting the `V-` to the `AC Earth` (either with, or without, a 100 Ω resistor - although the use of resistor *would* be preferable).
Then switch the PSU on to see if:
* *First*, the PSU doesn't short and explode (this is rather unlikely, but you never know), and;
* *Second*, the mild shocking that you experience has stopped. If it has stopped, then all well and good. If it hasn't, then power off and remove the connection (as it would seem pointless).
Personally, this is what I would try... and *then* get a replacement PSU anyway, when funds allow.
---
### Notes
It's obviously a dodgy earth/ground but without seeing inside, it might be difficult to determine exactly what the issue is.
Some of these LED power supplies are notoriously badly fabricated and there may be a poorly soldered connection inside, loose conenction, or a faulty part.
It is probably easily remedied, if you know what to look for... but not so easily fixed if you don't. I've had a lot of these LED PSUs in the past and some are fixable, some not. Normally the output faisl and just the power transistors need replacing. I haven't come across one which shocks me yet, though, so I couldn't say what the issue is (likely to be), apart from a bad ground.
If you think you could manage it, open it and check for bad ground/earth connections. If you don't feel confident, then, seeing as they are relatively cheap so, maybe obtain another PSU from a different source/manufacturer and try that one instead.
**If you do open it up, remember to disconnect from the mains supply..!**
To be honest, it sounds like a dodgy unit, but... As a sanity check: Does the wall socket that you are plugging into actually have an Earth connection. I have a rented flat (in SE Asia), that has "three-hole" wall sockets, but the earth isn't actually earthed, and I'm constantly getting shocks from everything. As a shoddy workaround, you *could* connect the earth to the plumbing (if you have metal pipework), to get a good earth... **However, seeing as the unit is detective, then this could result in a shocking shower... so not advised!!!**.
I can't help thinking that this *could be* quite a serious issue, and that (in the absense of a definitive answer here) maybe you should ask, or look, on SE.Electrical Engineering.
### Further reading
Should I ground the DC output negative terminal to the chasis on my 12 volt project?, in particular, this answer (but *all of the answers* are both informative and worth a read).
---
Tags: grounding
---
|
thread-20282
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20282
|
Filament not sticking to bed/nozzle too high
|
2022-12-03T14:34:07.487
|
# Question
Title: Filament not sticking to bed/nozzle too high
Brand new Ender 3 V2 Neo with CR Touch. Set printer up, switched on, ran bed levelling as per instructions, and tried first print.
Filament is not sticking to bed. I noticed that the nozzle is approx 5 mm above bed when printing. On this model there is no manual levelling, just auto. Any ideas?
# Answer
You probably need to manually set the Z-probe offset in the Configuration. The CR-touch is mounted a little lower than the nozzle to prevent the nozzle from interfering when leveling. This offset is not fixed and may differ per installation. I don't know the proper way to set this other than just incrementing values until the first layer is perfect. Starting you will increment with 1mm per test and in the end you will be incrementing with 0.1mm values. **One very big danger is though that setting a too high value, will press the nozzle into the printbed and damage both of them.** There for I don't recommend this method, but it is what works for me when being very careful with the increments. Maybe someone with a good trick to safely set the probe offset can comment or answer here.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Problem solved. Thanks for all the great suggestions. Yes, it was the Z axis offset. After homing Z axis set to 10mm. Set this to zero hen carried out manual bed levelling. After this ran auto levelling then set Z axis offset to correct level. None of this is mentioned in the instal instructions. Thanks everyone.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bltouch
---
|
thread-20299
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20299
|
BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 w/BTT smart filament sensor
|
2022-12-07T18:23:22.900
|
# Question
Title: BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 w/BTT smart filament sensor
I'm trying to figure out how to get my **BTT Smart Filament sensor** to work with my printer.
I have looked at Getting BTT filament sensor to work and have tried almost everything they did.
Relevant Specs about my printer:
* **Ender 3 (not pro or v2)**
* **BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3**
* **BIGTREETECH TFT35 E3 V3.0.1**
* **Sensor plugged into `E0-Stop` on the SKR Mini.**
* **Running latest version of Marlin bugfix 2.1.x (last commit 12/5/2022 12:01:08 EST)**
* FYI I also do have **OctoPrint** running and connected to the USB port of the SKR (not sure this matters).
When I follow BIGTREETECH setup instructions and several youtube videos for setting up `configuration.h` and `configuration_adv.h`, build the firmware, flash it on the board. It always starts the print, then immediately stops and reports "Filament out". I've tried setting the following options:
`configuration.h` options:
```
#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR
#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)
#define FIL_RUNOUT_ENABLED_DEFAULT true // Enable the sensor on startup. Override with M412 >followed by M500.
#define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS 1 // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a >FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each.
#define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE HIGH // Pin state indicating that filament is NOT present.
#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins.
#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600"
#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 10
#ifdef FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM
#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR
#endif
#endif
```
I've tried flipping
```
#define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE HIGH
```
to
```
#define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE LOW
```
but it behaves the same.
Anybody have any ideas? Did I miss something?
# Answer
Ok, it appears I have gotten it working. I guess I didn't flash the firmware after reading that the Smart Sensor requires a minimum of 7 mm of `FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM`. I rebuilt the firmware with the exact settings above and it is now working. I've tested this by starting a print (calibration cube), I waited for it to complete the first 2-3 layers, then I cut the filament and let it run out. It did detect the runout and allowed me to reload and continue the print
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bigtreetech, skr-mini-e3, filament-sensor
---
|
thread-20287
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20287
|
Show build date and time in Marlin 2.1 firmware?
|
2022-12-06T00:14:42.837
|
# Question
Title: Show build date and time in Marlin 2.1 firmware?
I'm trying to find out how to format the `__DATE__` and `__TIME__` options in Marlin.
This is NOT a duplicate of (Show Build date and time in Marlin 2.0).
When compiling my firmware I have a line in my configuration.h
`#define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME __DATE__ " " __TIME__ " Ender-3"`
But on the printer it is showing
> Dec 5 2022 18:25:13 Ender-3
I want the format mm/dd/yyyy hh:mm. Example "12/05/2022 18:25 Ender-3"
# Answer
> 1 votes
`__DATE__` and `__TIME__` are C++ pre-processor macros with a predefined format. I don't think that there's any way to change them at compile time.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, marlin, firmware
---
|
thread-20303
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20303
|
Is it safe to give 3D printed toys to a toddler?
|
2022-12-08T10:12:16.377
|
# Question
Title: Is it safe to give 3D printed toys to a toddler?
Is it safe to give a 3D printed toy (printed using food-safe filaments) to a toddler? Are there any recommendations/studies on what is considered safe?
# Answer
> 5 votes
The answer to this is highly dependent on the geometry, slicing settings, etc. Clearly it's possible for the 3D model itself to have small parts that would be choking hazards, or to have parts of the geometry such that, due to being thin or providing leverage, allow small parts to be broken off and become choking hazards, sharp, pointy, or otherwise dangerous. It's also possible that a print with insuficient layer bonding or poor infill could be split at layer lines or chewed apart, exposing parts that might be likewise dangerous.
If the part is designed with these safety considerations in mind, sliced properly, and printed without error on a reasonably well-tuned printer, it should be safe against mechanical hazards.
The IC3D Toys for Tots campaign might give you some ideas about the types of 3D printed toys a reputable organization considered safe for children. I'm not sure right off what age groups they targeted and whether all the toys in their campaign would be appropriate for toddlers - probably not.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The model election is a non-trivial issue when dealing with to a toddler but also, the extruder and hotend should be 100% free of debris from any previous, non food-safe filaments, although I don´t know how plausible that may be from a procedure point of view and I don´t know if there are any regulations with thresholds on this, but it´s not like we will be making a chemical analysis of a print to verify neither, so moving on to next point
Depending on what you want to do (and your printer flexibility), you might as well have 2 sets of extruder/hotend/bed if your really want to go this route on a production scale: one for food-safe prints and the other for the rest of the filaments like ABS
---
Tags: filament-choice
---
|
thread-19645
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19645
|
In Creality slicer, which settings should be adjusted to reduce the contact area between a support and an overhang?
|
2022-07-12T18:27:47.037
|
# Question
Title: In Creality slicer, which settings should be adjusted to reduce the contact area between a support and an overhang?
In Creality slicer, which settings would you change to reduce the amount of surface area from the supporting structure that makes contact with overhangs on the model you are printing.
For example, if you are printing the object pictured below, and the green area is the support structure, and the red area is the overhang that requires supporting, how would you decrease the amount of green that touched the red?
I'm asking about dialing back the surface area contact on "any" style of support, not choosing between different styles of support
# Answer
Creality's slicer is forked from Ultimakers Cura slicer and afterwards further developed as a minimalistic slicer.
If the options are similar, you can look at Cura slicer support options.
The amount of support is controlled by the option called `Support density` in Cura, the lower the percentage, the lower the amount of support.
> This model has triangle support with three different densities: 15 %, 30 % and 45 %
Looking at a Creality slicer screenshot from 2021:
You might want to look into `Fill amount (%)`.
> 1 votes
# Answer
This sounds like an x-y problem.
You are probably looking for easier separation or a nicer surface on your red area, and what you are actually asking for does the opposite of that. (Probably. It's complicated.)
For tower-like supports, you will have a structure similar to infill used to get to the right height, then an interface layer (kind of like a raft), then the print supported on top of that.
You think (I assume) that you could have fewer points of contact, and this would mean the printed surface is more perfect. That's mostly wrong. With fewer points of contact, the hot strands are more likely to droop and fuse with the support. It's kind of like the trick where a person lies down on a bed of nails: more points of contact means less pressure, which means a cleaner surface.
What you can do instead is play with the interface layer (the "roof"). IIRC, it will only allow multiples of your layer height, so you don't have that much granularity. That's fine. try bumping it up one layer and see if that gives you better separation. You can also try making the roof a little beefier, so it snaps off as a single piece more often.
If for some reason you *really, truly* do want fewer points of contact, disable the support roof (or set it to height zero and turn support density down. I do not recommend this unless you have something specific and weird going on.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: support-structures, creality
---
|
thread-14758
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14758
|
Y-axis layer shifting on my Ender 3
|
2020-11-09T22:32:28.233
|
# Question
Title: Y-axis layer shifting on my Ender 3
My 3D prints shift along the Y-axis on my Ender 3 3D printer. I don't know what to do. My Y-axis belt is tight, So I don't think that is the problem...
# Answer
Check for wobble in the X gantry and Y gantry also your Y-axis belt should vibrate like a snare when you pull it and let go. Same goes for your X-axis belt. If that doesn't work see if going back to Cura 4.6 helps (it did for me) and lower your acceleration in Cura (advanced settings movement).
> 1 votes
# Answer
Another issue might be layer height and extrusion i ran into minor layershifting today but after tuning my Z-offset i now have perfectly straight layers, try calibrating z-steps and e-steps there are plenty off videos on that. It does look like your layer height is pretty high, and lowering the speed (and or accelaration) with which you print can drastically improve your print quality at the cost of time. Please let me know if this worked.
> 1 votes
# Answer
You have a significant hardware problem.
It might be that your belt is slipping, or your motor is skipping, or your rollers need to be adjusted, cleaned, or replaced.
Quality is a bit potato, so it's hard to say exactly what's going on, but it looks like you are also printing way too hot. That may be compensating for wet filament or poor levelling/zeroing, either of which could lead to the nozzle dragging, possibly leading to skipping. I would expect at least the towers and maybe the print to break free if that were the case though, so I suspect it's a separate issue.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, quality, layer-shifting
---
|
thread-16683
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16683
|
Chitubox estimated time very away from the real time
|
2021-07-08T13:30:55.723
|
# Question
Title: Chitubox estimated time very away from the real time
Some time ago, I bought an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, and I really liked the product. This is my first resin printer and I am very satisfied.
What has been bothering me a little is in relation to the slicer. When I slice an item, Chitubox shows 3 hour/20 g (consumption), but this does not converge, when I print the final result is about 40 % higher than expected, this in both cases (time and resin consumption). I understand that resin consumption can be a little more relative, but time should converge.
My settings are the defaults provided by Chitubox, changing only the resin settings I use: 8 initial layers in 50 s and 2.5 s for other layers.
Is there something I'm doing wrong? Should these values converge with reality?
# Answer
It seems easy to calculate but it is not.
1. Due to acceleration and deceleration, the movement time hard to predict. If you take a look at Atmel source code for movement you would get clear idea.
2. Usually these boards contains RAMPS compatible firmware running on a separate micro controller. Any value change on this side such as movement parameters are not synchronized.
3. Framebuffer being used to display layer which is slow and add slight delays specially for high resolution printers.
At the end I did expect better prediction with simple math, specially considering only very few parameters adjustable on chitu. The most probably your printer timing details on chitu are not accurate.
> 1 votes
# Answer
It's quite easy to estimate "close enough".
Compared to FDM printers, movement is way more simple, and there are only 4 different types of movements during a normal print:
1. Lowering the print platform at the beginning of print (we can't know the starting position, so time needed cannot be really estimated)
2. Printing bottom layers with longer exposure times. Speeds can be set differently from normal layers.
3. Printing normal layers. Just like bottom, move build platform up and back down (slightly higher than last time), and do exposure with constant time.
4. After the print is complete, lift the print up.
My last print job was 2249 layers, of which 4 were bottom layers. As you can see, everything else pales in comparison of the time needed for "normal" layers. So we can pretty much ignore them.
But the estimate is wrong. Luckily it's very easy to fix closer to the reality. This page shows how to do it, search for "Layer Print Time Compensation"
Since print time is so predictable, it's only a single multiplier value. The easiest way to set this up is to slice a project, write down estimated time AND amount of layers. Then when the print is done record the time it actually took, open the compensation window (gear icon on the right side of Layer Print Time Compensation), and enter all the values there. It will calculate the multiplier for you. Also note that this setting is per-profile, it will be different for different exposure times, movement speeds and layer thickness.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: resin, sla, dlp, chitu
---
|
thread-20226
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20226
|
Stronger connection (thicker point) between two lines
|
2022-11-18T18:00:46.553
|
# Question
Title: Stronger connection (thicker point) between two lines
I've just bought my first 3D printer, and I've started playing with it. But apparently, I have the problem that the raft won't stick. I mean, it sticks, for iteration (layer) or two, and after that it just disconnects. This is what I've checked until now:
* Bed is leveled properly, including Z, tried different variation of offsets
* Temperature of both bed and nozzle are okay (70 and 210 °C, it is PLA filament)
* Received slightly better results with adhesive for 3D printers, but still not ideal
Now, I've came up to the idea: I would like to try to interconnect each line in one layer (iteration) with thicker dot of melted filament for better adhesion. Unfortunately, I don't know how to setup this parameter in slicing software (Cura). Does anyone eventually know where I can find this parameter in Cura? In addition, here it is the extract of the GCODE:
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:8750
;Filament used: 3.97836m
;Layer height: 0.15
;MINX:45.401
;MINY:52.901
;MINZ:0.36
;MAXX:154.6
;MAXY:147.099
;MAXZ:31.035
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 5.2.1
M140 S45
M105
M190 S45
M104 S210
M105
M109 S210
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:199
;LAYER:-7
M107
G0 F7200 X49.177 Y57.705 Z0.36
;TYPE:SUPPORT-INTERFACE
G1 F1500 E0
G1 F1350 X48.447 Y58.574 E0.05124
G1 X47.809 Y59.466 E0.10075
G1 X47.23 Y60.43 E0.15151
G1 X46.778 Y61.31 E0.19618
...
;TIME_ELAPSED:8750.646320
G1 F1500 E835.92386
M140 S0
M104 S0
M140 S0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
M104 S0
;End of Gcode
;SETTING_3 {"global_quality": "[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Normal #2\\ndefi
;SETTING_3 nition = custom\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_ty
;SETTING_3 pe = fast\\nsetting_version = 20\\n\\n[values]\\nadhesion_type = raft
;SETTING_3 \\nmaterial_bed_temperature = 45.0\\n\\n", "extruder_quality": ["[gen
;SETTING_3 eral]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Normal #2\\ndefinition = custom\\n\\n[me
;SETTING_3 tadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_type = fast\\nsetting_vers
;SETTING_3 ion = 20\\nposition = 0\\n\\n[values]\\ncool_fan_enabled = False\\nin
;SETTING_3 fill_pattern = grid\\ninfill_sparse_density = 80\\nmaterial_print_tem
;SETTING_3 perature = 210.0\\nretraction_hop_enabled = True\\nspeed_print = 60.0
;SETTING_3 \\n\\n"]}
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
After some "experimenting", I've managed to resolve the problem. There were several contributors to the problem I had:
* I had to replace the slicing software; My printer did not accept G-code from Cura perfectly, even after a detailed configuration of Cura, according to my printer specs. Instead, I've downloaded and used OEM slicing software (in this case Voxelab)
* Printing speed was too high; With printing speed reduced from 60 mm/s to 40 mm/s situation significantly improved. Apparently, the extruder could not keep up with filament delivery at higher speeds
* Increased PLA temperature to 230 °C.; This also partially resolved the filament distribution problem. Bed temperature remained at 60 °C, with quite good success (I've used adhesive as well)
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your work-around is a description to resolve a problem without resolving the problem. A properly tuned 3D printer will place the first layer on the bed (without a raft!) in such a manner as to allow the entire print to be completed.
Consider to print a single layer rectangle created in any software with which you are comfortable. A rectangle of 100 mm square would be large enough for analysis. Also, edit your question to reflect the current layer thickness and speeds you are using.
The single layer should present uniform width as the filament is applied to the bed. Each adjacent "stripe" should have minimal overlap with the previously applied stripe. Too much overlap (excessive extrusion factor) will create bulges between stripes. Insufficient overlap will result in gaps.
This rectangle print will provide feedback for your bed leveling as well as the z-offset. Excessive z-offset will reduce the grip of the filament to the bed.
Using adhesive and having poor results leads me to suggest the first layer is at a too-high z-offset, but your test will provide a better answer.
Even though I've seen a few references to PLA not requiring drying, PLA and other filament types can have problems with bed adhesion if there is too much humidity absorbed into the filament. Consider to dry your spool for four to six hours to see if improvement will result.
Lastly, you should not need to use a raft, unless a specific aspect of your model requires it. I've seen rafts "required" in low quality, low cost, low performance 3D printers with poor bed planar characteristics. One will hope your printer is not in that category.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, pla, adhesion
---
|
thread-20316
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20316
|
Issues with my 3D prints
|
2022-12-13T18:27:13.623
|
# Question
Title: Issues with my 3D prints
I've noticed there have been some strange patterns occurring in my prints lately, sort of like warping. I've attached a picture of a Benchy below and an image of a project I'm working on. But as you'll see on the Benchy, the front is messed up. Never had this issue before, it's only started occurring recently. Any ideas as to what it looks like?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Looks like insufficient cooling. If it only just started, your part cooling fan might be clogged with dust and debris, or have a failing bearing making it spin slow and give low flow, or might have broken fins, etc.
It's also possible that a difference in ambient air has made the difference. Especially if you're printing PLA on a hot bed, it's hard to get low-to-the-bed overhangs like the Benchy bow sufficiently cooled that they won't deform like this, and having the ambient temperature a few degrees higher can make the difference in not being able to.
If the latter is your problem, lowering the bed temperature (and finding alternatives to heat to get your part to stick) is probably your best option. Or, get better fans.
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, filament, anet-a6
---
|
thread-20320
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20320
|
Mixing conductive and non-conductive filaments
|
2022-12-14T11:17:41.620
|
# Question
Title: Mixing conductive and non-conductive filaments
I'm interested in 3d printing rotors for cipher machines, like the Enigma machine rotor. These are cylindrical objects with a complicated internal wiring scheme that's very labor intensive to duplicate with manual construction techniques.
The obvious solution would be to print the rotor structure using non-conductive filament, and then use conductive filament to create the complex, twisting connections from the one side of the rotor to the other.
Can this be done? If so, how?
Since I don't have access to a dual-extruder machine, are there any commercial services which have this capability?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Here is a video published by a Virginia Tech student in 2017, printing alternately with conductive and magnetic pastes (not filaments) to make planar and toroid inductors:
Disclaimer: This was done with Hyrel 3D equipment, and I work for Hyrel 3D.
---
Tags: filament, dual-nozzle
---
|
thread-20325
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20325
|
“Thick layers” on Ender 3
|
2022-12-16T05:03:32.260
|
# Question
Title: “Thick layers” on Ender 3
Every time I print something I get these random bands on my prints that look like layers that are just too thick. I’ve tightened my X-axis belt to the best of my ability, and my Y-axis belt is tightened as well. Though I don’t think it’s that because it goes around the whole print.
I’m using Cura, .28 mm layer height, 20 % infill, all on my Ender 3 in PLA at 200 °C nozzle temp and 50-60 °C bed temp. I’ve attached some pictures of a calibration cube I printed, it is squished a bit because my Z-axis wasn’t calibrated properly, but I’ve since fixed that and the problem still occurs.
# Answer
Problem solved everyone!! Turns out I was actually having two issues caused by the same thing. My inaccuracy in the z axis and those weird lines were both being caused by either my z axis stepped not receiving enough current or that the collar around the z axis lead screw wasn’t tight enough. I tried both of these solutions at the same time so I don’t know which it was.
Link to a post with the same issue, with possibly the same solution. Thank you @0scar for showing me this!
> 3 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, ultimaker-cura
---
|
thread-19632
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19632
|
Does anyone know a site where you can download straight up G-code files?
|
2022-07-08T13:14:23.733
|
# Question
Title: Does anyone know a site where you can download straight up G-code files?
Is there any known site where you can input your 3D printer's information and it will show you all G-code files uploaded to that site and would have a download button? If not, it's not a huge deal. It's just that I can't find my computer, therefore can't use a slicer.
# Answer
This is generally not a good idea. Your slicing needs to be reasonably tuned to your specific printer. You’re going to have a hard time finding files to start with, and you may have a very bad time if it’s set up for a material different from yours.
So, frame challenge: don’t do that.
> 7 votes
# Answer
## Uncontrolled G-code can be a (medium) security risk.
As we already elaborated here. In general, you shouldn't use G-code from a website, unless you really know what you do.
## Prusaprinters/printables.com
Printables.com, formerly Prusaprinters, allows uploading G-code that does not contain commands that can alter settings. This blocks the `M50x` family (esp. M500, M501, M502) and several other codes (M509, M400, M304, M303, M30) that are easily weaponized to destroy or at least alter printers. By disallowing these commands, *some* damage can be mitigated, but not all: The site does **not** detect G-code that would for example ram your hotend into the bed - and most printers don't have crash detection to stop *that*.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Perhaps go to your printers manufacturers or resellers site. They may have g-code. I got some g-code files along with my printer. So I assume they must be available somewhere.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: g-code
---
|
thread-20330
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20330
|
In Cura remove Top/Bottom on overhang
|
2022-12-17T16:21:32.607
|
# Question
Title: In Cura remove Top/Bottom on overhang
Is there a way to get rid of the (yellow) internal support, Cura is generating for overhangs?
I am already printing with 3 walls, so there should be no additional benefit in this case and it is harming my print.
(Reason: I want to print this in silk PLA, which is very temperature sensitive. These overhangs tend to curl up, due to the additional material and heating. Adding more part cooling will hurt the layer adhesion dramatically.)
# Answer
> 2 votes
**Skin Removal Width** should be the setting you are looking for.
PrusaSlicer's equivalent is **Ensure vertical shell thickness**.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
---
|
thread-20221
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20221
|
Under extrusion with Ender3
|
2022-11-17T08:27:55.220
|
# Question
Title: Under extrusion with Ender3
I'm having some problem with my Ender 3. I have been printing for almost a year with good results. Then, all of a sudden, the fan started to be noisy and the prints came out definitely not good.
From what I understood looking around, the problem could be under extrusion.
I replaced the fan (both of them actually) but the prints keep coming out badly. The software is always the same (Cura) and I never changed any parameter whatsoever.
This is what I tried so far:
* printing with (four) different filaments (always PLA though).
* changing the E-steps
* unclogging and replacing the nozzle (twice)
* re-calibrating Z like a million times
* printing different projects, included those who I already successfully printed before
-\> Nothing helped!
Then I was forced to also change the software (because my PC died...) But even with the new version nothing changed. Now the extruder calibration is okay (I print 10 cm and 10 cm of filament are consumed through a hot nozzle).
Increasing the flow by 5 % and the temperature by 10 °C (I'm now printing at 220 °C....) actually gives better results (the calibration cube is more definite and more solid) even if under extrusion is still appreciable.
Calibration cubes:
Printing example:
I don't know what else to try!!! Can someone help me?
# Answer
> 2 votes
You are pushing 10 cm through a hot nozzle for calibration, this is sometimes different in terms of pushing it under load (back pressure from the deposition/squishing of the filament). Although the correct calibration, the prints are under extruded, so there is too less filament delivered to the nozzle.
This hints to a problem with the extruder; these type of extruders are known not to be the best type of extruders, common problems with these extruders are a lack of idler wheel tension, broken and cracked extruder lever and wearing out of the brass extruder gear.
You should closely check the extruder during printing, it is expected that not enough filament is pushed forward to the hot end. You could increase the tension on the lever, but is is probably best to invest in a better Bowden extruder, preferably using a dual gear and/or using a gear ratio (for more torque). Note that you may require buying a new stepper motor as well: Problems with stock gear with no screw on Ender 3 pro.
# Answer
> 2 votes
In addition to checking for a broken or improperly tensioned extruder, I would also recommend just checking the brass filament gear and cleaning it. It tends to get caked with a mix of dust, filament shavings, and whatever else they absorb out of the air - maybe even oils from the nearby Z leadscrew or motor bearings, etc. - and this significantly reduces the effective tooth depth and thus grip. The soft brass teeth might even wear down.
If it's just dirty, cleaning it could solve the problem, but if it looks like it's worn and needs replacement, replacing the whole (very bad) extruder would be a better option. No sense spending money on just the gear when pretty much everything about this extruder is bad, and for not too much more cost, you could get a better one.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I can think of the following causes:
* if the thermistor and heater in the hot-end is loose it can lead to weird results due to inconsistent temperatures.
* the gear grip for the filament feed might be slipping and lead to inconsistent feeding and print outcome.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, underextrusion
---
|
thread-14628
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14628
|
Filament residue sticks to bed and wont come off
|
2020-10-21T00:31:23.770
|
# Question
Title: Filament residue sticks to bed and wont come off
There is filament residue on my glass bed that is so thin that it wont come off. I have had residue buildup for over a year now and none of it has come off. This residue appears with both the PETG and the PLA filament I have. Is there anyway to remove this residue?
# Answer
I would try a single edge razor blade at a low angle used as a scraper. If you can't feel the blade catching in the residue, it probably isn't an issue.
If you must get rid of it you don't have good choices of solvents. Maybe you can burn it off by placing the class in an oven through a clean cycle. With luck the hearing and cooling won't break the glass.
If you can't scrape it off with a sharp razor blade, I would just let it be.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I had exactly the same issue. I read where ethyl acetate would work so I bought a can of Klean Strip M.E.K Substitute (MSDS says it is ethyl acetate) at Home Depot and it works like a champ. No heating of the bed is required. All of the PLA build-up came off with a cloth rag and a little bit of elbow grease. Make sure to follow instructions. Good luck.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Heat the bed to around 90 °C and then scrape everything off with a metallic scraper, like the ones used to fill gaps in walls. No need of a super sharp one, since the plastic will be very soft a that temperature.
If you have a razor blade and a **proper handle to avoid cutting yourself**, you won't need to heat the bed to more than 40 °C, since you dont want the plastic to be too soft.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Maybe you could put your bed at the max temperature and print a large square of 1 mm onto it using a higher than normal temperature for that filament, maybe this bonds the residue to the new print. Let it cool down and pry the print off or remove while hot.
> 0 votes
# Answer
It's probably not practical, but what would be ideal is to put the glass from the bed in an oxygen plasma asher used in the semiconductor industry. It would probably be difficult to get a used one large enough, since your bed size probably matches state of the art wafer sizes.
What would be even more practical is for someone to develop an oxygen plasma cleaning torch that wouldn't overheat the glass (https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/FINAL-REPORT-U-.-S-.-Department-of-Energy-Plasma-of-Hicks/fc32a874806de71f1d10f2d979d3a74e2bb7c0d0?p2df). Plasma cutting torches already exist.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament, glass-bed, bed
---
|
thread-20333
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20333
|
Ender 3v2 stops mid-print
|
2022-12-18T00:11:21.240
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3v2 stops mid-print
My Ender 3v2 stops mid-print; every print. The head just stops moving. The nozzle and bed temperatures are still on.
I then can cancel and start the job but it's stopping again, even when using totally different G-code files.
I'm using OctoPrint and didn't change anything lately. This never happened before.
Any idea why this is happening?
# Answer
> 3 votes
I reinstalled the firmware and also reinstalled octoprint. Since then everything seems to be printing fine.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-20336
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20336
|
3D print Unreal Engine asset - Low quality export
|
2022-12-18T14:49:57.640
|
# Question
Title: 3D print Unreal Engine asset - Low quality export
I wanted to experiment with a 3D printer and downloaded **Lychee Slicer** and wanted to print an Unreal asset. I took a free one from the store and exported the static mesh as `.obj`, so I can load it in **Lychee**. The only thing is details and curves have disappeared and smooth surfaces are visible polygons. Is this something that can be fixed?
# Answer
It sounds like the .obj file you exported from the Unreal Engine did not preserve the smooth surfaces and curves of the original asset. This is likely because the .obj format does not support smooth shading or surface curvature information, and can only represent geometry as a collection of flat polygons.
If you want to preserve the smooth surfaces and curves of the original asset, you will need to use a different file format that supports this kind of information. Some options you might consider include the .stl format, which is commonly used for 3D printing, or the .fbx format, which is a more general-purpose 3D file format that can support smooth shading and surface curvature.
It is also possible that the slicer software you are using to prepare the model for printing does not support smooth shading or surface curvature. In this case, you may need to use a different slicer program or apply a smoothing algorithm to the model before exporting it.
I hope this information is helpful. Let me know if you have any further questions!
> 1 votes
# Answer
The curves (simple smoothing or real "multiple-per-vertex-normals") are embedded in the vertex information of the model and probably still exist in the obj. Lychee only sees the real 3D polygon mesh and discards the vertex data. Your best way to add some sort of polygon smoothing like MeshSmooth or TurboSmooth in 3ds Max, Maya, or Blender. It will read the vertex info and apply it to the mesh, thus creating more vertices. See the following YouTube video for an example:
> 0 votes
---
Tags: resin, lychee
---
|
thread-20318
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20318
|
How to I eliminate these "squished" layers that appear on my prints?
|
2022-12-13T21:17:28.873
|
# Question
Title: How to I eliminate these "squished" layers that appear on my prints?
While I was setting up a new Ender 3 v2, and tuning the z-steps value, I noticed that some layers were extending beyond the others in the x and y axes. I didn't notice any pattern related to which layer, or how far from the print bed, or how often they might repeat during the same print.
My current setup is OctoPrint running on a raspberry pi 3B, connected via USB to the recently-assembled Ender 3v2.
My current theory is that something related to the z-axis stepping isn't lifting the print-head. It might be that the wrong number of steps are being performed, or that the screw isn't turning along with the stepper, or that there is some kind of friction or binding keeping the x-axis beam from raising.
# Answer
After some thought, I decided to verify all of my assumptions. My primary assumption was that I had completed the assembly completely and correctly. This was not the case. I had *not* tightened the collar around the z-axis lead screw sufficiently. After correcting this error, I'm pleased to report that all of my 'squished' layers have disappeared and the printer is now fully functional.
> 6 votes
# Answer
It is unlikely that the amount of steps per mm are incorrect for your Z-axis, but there is indeed something wrong with the Z-axis. The Z-axis doesn’t advance the correct amount per layer for some layers; the Z height of the cubes say enough. If too less raised, the material will be squished outside the outer perimeter.
It could be that there is too much friction or binding or another mechanical problem. You should manually check that. But it can also be that there isn’t enough current delivered to the stepper by the driver. The current for the Z-stepper can be adjusted by the trim pot near the stepper driver.
From reprap world:
> On the Ender3 v2 Mainboard you will find a small set screw for each stepper driver, called a trimpot. To access the mainboard remove the bottom plate of the printer. Once removed, you are able to see the trimpots as on the images shown below. By adjusting the trimpot you reduce or increase the current, depending on the rotation. Be careful adjusting the trimpot, it may break easily. Always disconnect power before adjusting the trimpot and use a suitable screw driver. The following pictures shows the locations of the trimpots.
> To increase the current rotate the trimpot clockwise by a few degrees. Steps of 10 degrees of change are probably best, until you find the sweet spot. For the ender3 v2 the following vRef are recommended:
>
> X,Y,Z: 1.22V E: 1.39V
> 2 votes
# Answer
If your nozzle is too close to the bed, there is not enough space between the nozzle and the bed to extrude the proper amount of filament. Excess filament is either squished upwards between individual printed lines or isn't extruded at all creating additional pressure in the hotend.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis, extrusion
---
|
thread-18978
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18978
|
Creality Ender 5 Pro stops working
|
2022-02-22T21:48:17.707
|
# Question
Title: Creality Ender 5 Pro stops working
I bought the Creality Ender 5 Pro 29th of December 2021, so it's pretty new. I have done about a hundred prints by now, without any problems, it's a damn good workhorse... until last Friday.
The printer stopped after making the brim, just full stop, the board didn't respond so I had to turn the printer off and on. I tried to resume the print but it stopped working right away, after that I turned it off and on again, and send it to auto home, that just works fine. Restarted the same but new print, and everything stopped working at the same spot again. Turned on some other prints, same thing stopped working after the brim.
At this point, I decided to check out the hotend, filament, etc. I couldn't do much with the hotend as the nozzle was fully stuck, unable to remove, so I bought a full new hotend set. It didn't solve the problem, even with the new hotend it stops after printing the brim. So I tried different slicers, again, no difference. Cura/Creality/Prusa slicers, nothing works.
I tried changing the settings of the prints, but nothing worked either. I did notice that the printer stops at the same point, which is almost right in the middle of the bed. I have a new bed, a PEI bed, which is not deformed it has no bumps. I did not do anything with the programming, I also did not change the motherboard. The bed is perfectly level. The filament doesn't seem to be a problem either after using up 3 kilos already without problems.
So to remove some things that ain't the problem:
* the bed is not the problem
* slicer program is not the problem
* hotend is not the problem
* bed level is not the problem
So there are 2 things left (what I know about).
* the SD card
* motherboard/software
If anybody knows what the problem might be, or what else I can do to fix it, please let me know. I'm starting to run out of ideas that I myself can fix.
The prints I have tried are different models (STL file) and different slicers are used. I made a new model, a simple 2 cm by 2 cm by 3 mm square, it stops after the brim. I tried the prefab dog model that is on the SD card, without a brim, and it stops around the same time/spot, the only difference is that it keeps pushing out filament which does not happen with the self-made models. I also found out that it happens at all places, there is no difference in printing in the left corner, or in the middle of the bed. I unplugged all the cables and connectors and reconnected them again, I removed the hotend and attached it again, so that it is perfectly lined up.
A video of the problem: https://www.loom.com/share/d58e7e1db719480f81b765e83988e9e4?fbclid=IwAR2GT0MA2VtEO7TpB2jx9Km5Kf4sJkD5W3CYHjAgFbf51fGrWaoGm-\_9MSU
# Answer
To fix the Ender 3 not printing or starting, you need to reflash the firmware to rule out any errors, calibrate your hot end temperature with PID Tuning, and check your filament if it has snapped from somewhere. The Ender 3 also won't print if the nozzle is too close to the print bed or the nozzle has been clogged.
> -3 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-5
---
|
thread-20295
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20295
|
Do you need the front fan on Ender 3 Pro?
|
2022-12-06T16:57:55.563
|
# Question
Title: Do you need the front fan on Ender 3 Pro?
I have a heating problem on my Ender 3 Pro. I changed the thermistor and the 40 W heater but still the printer will just heat to 200 °C. So I unplugged the front fan that runs constantly, and, yes, now it reaches 260 °C.
Can I run my printer like this? I mean, it should have been mounted there for a reason?
# Answer
> 2 votes
**Yes, it is necessary.**
Its purpose is to cool the heatsink. The filament should only melt in the heater block. If the hotend fan is missing, the heatsink will also heat up, causing the filament to melt in it. This will cause heat creeps, which may result in inconsistent extrusion or unwanted clogs.
I once tried printing without a hotend fan and after a while, my filament got stuck at the height of the heatsink.
---
Your heating issues are probably due to other reasons.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, creality, cooling, fans
---
|
thread-20343
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20343
|
Fail to upload G-code with UGS Plotter Software
|
2022-12-20T04:23:27.050
|
# Question
Title: Fail to upload G-code with UGS Plotter Software
Referring to a circle shape G-code online generator for my 2D printer at here, in which I created a 100 mm circle. I downloaded the G-code from the website and try to open it with UGS plotter but it is not showing any circle in that software.
How can I solve this issue? Pardon me, I only started CNC 2 days ago and I have jogged my 2D printer I built and it works well, so now as a beginner task, I want to draw a circle.
If anyone has experience with G-code, feel free to share it with me. I appreciate it :)
# Answer
> 1 votes
The g-code generated by the linked site presents in a text reader as a series of G01 codes, which are strictly movement codes. As expected, the circle was created as a series of fairly short straight line segments.
There are no other g-codes of note in the created file. In the case of a 2D printer, one would expect to see a g-code for pen down/pen up, while in a 3D printer, one expects to see extrusion commands.
The first two or three g-code viewers presented zero graphic results. The last one (because, why continue?) is NC Viewer and was able to properly display a circle. Images from linked site, using OP linked site to code 100 mm circle:
I added in a "pen-down" g-code, M3 S50 to the code and the NC Viewer site also added a pen!
This would indicate that your code is good/operational/functional, but lacks additional commands to create something useful in the program on your side. Consider to examine the g-code that presents an image in your software. Research the g-codes to determine the function. For example, I did not have a pen-down g-code command memorized, but used a search engine to find "g-code pen down" nearly instantly. Directly related, the M09 g-code in the created file is one I did not recognize. A search presented the answer that it is a "coolant off" command. An unusual command to see in a generic g-code creator!
# Answer
> 0 votes
Make sure you are connecting to the correct port. Make sure you have installed any drivers required for your controller. Make sure GRBL is properly flashed on your controller. As a last resort try removing all previous UGS settings (see property Files) and reinstall.
---
Tags: print-quality, g-code, diy-3d-printer, print-material, printer-building
---
|
thread-20349
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20349
|
Resin printer adds a small block along the far right side
|
2022-12-20T15:13:19.663
|
# Question
Title: Resin printer adds a small block along the far right side
My Photon Mono 4k adds a small block along the right side and no matter what I do, it still makes it. It doesn't stop it from printing but is wasting a good bit of resin. Does anybody have an idea as to what's happening?
# Answer
A creation on your build plate indicates that that portion of the screen is illuminating. Either the screen has a defect that prevents the masking in that location, or there is spurious code in the creation of the print file.
You can test for a specific answer by running the files without the print bed or print vat. Cover the screen with a sheet of paper to protect your eyes, and/or leave the cover in place. The sheet of paper will give a more clear definition to the region being printed/not printed, reducing the glare from the UV lights.
Examine also the display on the printer while the layers are being printed. If the block does not appear in the display, it would indicate that it's not a glitch in the code creation. If the block appears on the paper, it's more likely a failed portion of the screen.
It's not out of the question that there could be a cable connection loose that prevents masking of that specific area, but it's pretty unlikely to be so tightly restricted.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: resin, lcd-screen, anycubic-photon
---
|
thread-20308
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20308
|
Waterproof sealant for case seams that allows opening and closing without destroying seal
|
2022-12-10T12:37:36.033
|
# Question
Title: Waterproof sealant for case seams that allows opening and closing without destroying seal
I'm currently printing several cases for electronics, one for a Raspberry Pi 4 and two for smaller electronics, using ABS. These cases will be attached to a drone which might be exposed to rain. The cases itself should handle a little water, but I'm looking for a way to seal the seams where the cases are put together.
As mentioned, the cases must endure light to medium rain. Also, they might be frequently dis- and reassembled, which should work without the sealing being destroyed. The edges of the case parts are normally very thin, so gluing rubber bands or o-rings to them would be very complicated. And if I apply a sealant coating, how to open the cases again?
I was hoping that maybe there was some kind of viscous liquid that is applied to the edges with a brush (or by dipping the edges into it) and then hardens to a rubber like texture that sticks to the part it was applied to. Other Ideas are welcome too, of course.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I've tried gasket sealant, as mentioned by @fectin, and the result seems to be working. You spread it on the edges of the printed part and evenly flatten it (it helps to print a tool for that purpose that flattens and removes the overhanging sealant at the side of the edge). Now let it sit for about one day. The sealant will harden out and stick to the part. The edges can also be pressed to the edges of an opposite part without the sealant sticking to the opposite edges (so far as I have tested, at least), so a reopening is possible. Aside from that, I'll simply have to use overhangs whenever necessary.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Plastidip is a spray-on rubber-like material that strengthens and waterproofs your 3D print.
Other than that I would make sure that your model is splash-proof by overlaying structures, so that rain rolls off without entering the body and anything that enters the body can seep out.
# Answer
> 2 votes
## Many ways lead to Rome!
There are many ways that lead to Rome in this case, and I want to propose two:
### cut gasket sheet
The most simple solution is a gasket, upon which pressure is applied evenly on all sides. This gasket can be made from any rubbery or foam material and then *squished* between the halves. A typical construction for a gasket would look akin to this stack: a pipe with holes in the flange at its end, then the gasket, then the endcap. The sealant is deformed against the plates on either side and the pressure is applied by having bolts pass through the faces **and** the gasket. You'll find this mechanism often where flat surfaces are *mating*. The thickness of the gasket and its flexibility (some are really stiff, others are super soft) are dependent on the use case. They rely on being tensioned evenly.
Among the household solutions that can work like this are 2mm closed-pore foam sheets and faux leather. The latter usually is a PVC foam, at times fiber reinforced. Industrial gaskets are at times papery in make but rely on precision machined surfaces then (motorhead gaskets!)
## molded gasket by the sealant grove in situ
In this case, you use a flexible rubber material, such as acyl, silicone, or a Polyurethane sealant, and add it to a groove or onto a surface. In this position, it cures into a staying gasket and when brought in contact with the mating surface, it provides sealing surfaces by deforming in the fashion limited by the channel provided for it. The upside is, that you can have very complex mating surfaces. The downside is, that often the seal might not be replaceable easily and will need to be destroyed to get a replacement done.
In the example shown below, I designed the receptacle for the sealant in the shape of a grove, allowing you to easily shape it with a coin or wet finger and press it into all crevices of the channel. This will result in a well-curing and maximum-adhering shape.
A slight refinement on the design would be an undercut on the receiving side, preventing one from *pulling* the gasket from the channel if the inside of the vessel had a lower pressure than the outside and the mating surface *sticks* to the seal. However, this makes replacing the sealant harder if it ages over time.
# Answer
> 1 votes
How about rubber cement from a stationery store?
Thinly coat both surfaces, let it dry for a while, then press and hold firmly together.
Depending upon the strength of the object, you might be able to simply pry it apart when needed, or use a knife to cut the cement.
**Warning:** be sure to test the cement on a sample of the printed material first to ensure that its solvent won't react with the print.
---
Tags: water-resistance
---
|
thread-20355
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20355
|
What could have caused this damage?
|
2022-12-21T06:54:15.640
|
# Question
Title: What could have caused this damage?
My Dremel 3D45 stopped the extrusion. I removed the nozzle thinking about it was clogged. But still it didn't solve. Also the nozzle was harder to remove than usual.
So I removed the bottom cover and I found this:
It seems the heater is completely burned and messed up. Unfortunately the replacement parts are hard to find.
**I'm wondering what could have caused this damage**. I didn't run the nozzle over 220 °C (usually 195 °C) and the printer has less than 250 hours of working time.
It was just a defect? Or could I have prevented it?
# Answer
> 3 votes
As you say that the nozzle removal was harder than normal it can be concluded that it has been removed before.
Looking at the hotend when new, it evidently looks as if filament has been entrapped onto and on top of the heater block.
It could be that in a prior attempt to remove or replace the nozzle, the heat break has come loose or un-tightened as such that molten filament leaked on top of the heater block.
This hypothesis is more likely in this case than filament that has been ricochetted back from the nozzle opening back to the cavity containing the hot end (I recently experienced this latter issue on an Ultimaker destroying the core...).
---
Tags: troubleshooting, extruder, nozzle, dremel-3d45
---
|
thread-20253
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20253
|
Steppers suddenly disabled during job
|
2022-11-26T22:35:54.907
|
# Question
Title: Steppers suddenly disabled during job
I'm using:
* Workbee CNC
* SKR1.4 Turbo with TMC5160
* Marlin 2.0
Steppers suddenly disabled during job. But, they get back working as soon as you restart the machine.
I've had the problem twice with this setup. Once with the Z-axis and once with the Y-axis (that uses two steppers, one keeps on working while the other was disabled).
When I had the problem in Z-axis, I decided to lower current on that axis from 2 A to 1.9 A. It's already 1.5 A for both steppers on the Y-axis.
Just switching off and on the machine is enough to let steppers work again say it seems not to be a wiring problem.
Any clue? Any advice is welcome.
# Answer
I think I fixed the problem.
Marlin was configured in hybrid mode with stealth chop mode at low speed then spread cycle when the stepper goes faster.
I removed stealth chop and set spread cycle at any speed and it seems to be OK.
I could let the machine work for hours with no issue
> 3 votes
---
Tags: marlin, stepper-driver, print-failure, bigtreetech
---
|
thread-20357
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20357
|
What causes checksum mismatch error while printing from OctoPrint?
|
2022-12-21T11:28:12.883
|
# Question
Title: What causes checksum mismatch error while printing from OctoPrint?
Recently, I've installed a new BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V3.0 board on Creality Ender-5. Previously, I was using SKR mini E3 V1.2 board, but it broke down and I had to replace it. I connected new one exactly like the previous board and calibrated the printer. Everything seemed to be working properly.
Now, I'm getting unexpected `M122` errors while printing from OctoPrint:
This is OctoPrint's console output:
```
Recv: ok
Recv: Error:checksum mismatch, Last Line: 30869
Recv: Resend: 30870
Should resend line 30870 but no sufficient history is available, can't resend
Changing monitoring state from "Printing" to "Error"
Send: G1 X109.711 Y118.883 E.02691
Send: M112
Send: N31035 M112*37
Send: N31036 M104 T0 S0*38
Send: N31037 M140 S0*99
Changing monitoring state from "Error" to "Offline after error"
Connection closed, closing down monitor
Closing down send loop
```
This checksum mismatch error appears randomly at different stages of printing, but always around 30000 line.
---
**What is my setup?**
* Creality Ender-5
* Raspberry Pi 3A+
* OctoPrint 1.8.6
* OctoPi 0.18.0
* SKR mini E3 V3.0 board
* My custom firmware
I customized the firmware from BIGTREETECH official repository for this board. This problem also occurs, when I upload official firmware for this board. OctoPrint is connected to the board via GPIO pins - that's how it was connected before and I have no way to connect it via USB cable.
---
**What have I done to resolve this issue?**
* Tried printing from SD card. This error doesn't occur, when printing from SD card.
* Replaced cables connecting the board with Raspberry Pi.
* Isolated all the electronics away from the printer's case.
* Changed SD card used by OctoPrint to a new, empty one.
* Updated OctoPrint to recent, stable version.
* Uninstalled all unnecessary OctoPrint plugins.
* Tried flashing official firmware.
I suppose that the problem is in the connection between the printer and OctoPrint. What can cause this error to happen?
# Answer
> 1 votes
According to Marlin docs, these checksum mismatch errors were due to the baud rate being set incorrectly.
> The serial communication speed of the printer should be as fast as it can manage without generating errors. In most cases 115200 gives a good balance between speed and stability. Start with 250000 and only go lower if “line number” and “checksum” errors start to appear.
Lowering baud rate solved the problem.
---
Tags: octoprint, skr-mini-e3, serial-connection
---
|
thread-15130
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15130
|
OpenSCAD linear_extrude from multiple path svg import
|
2020-12-28T12:17:52.750
|
# Question
Title: OpenSCAD linear_extrude from multiple path svg import
In OpenSCAD, I am trying to make a linear\_extrude on a shape imported from an svg. The svg file contains multiple path. I would like to scale each path separately. I have tried the following code, but the whole import is considered a single shape resulting in the image below.
```
linear_extrude(height = 5, center = true, scale=1.2)
import(file = "xxx.svg", center = true, dpi = 96);
```
How can I have each of the letters to have 'its own pyramid' ?
I know I could create one SVG per letter. But for simplicity sake I would like to have only one SVG file, as I want to create much more complex motives in the future. My final goal is to create stamps from SVG drawings.
Edit: Alternative tried after Mick's comment (same result):
```
module pyramidChildren(height){
for ( i= [0:1:$children-1])
linear_extrude(height = height, scale=1.5)
children(i);
}
pyramidChildren(5)
import(file = "xxx.svg", center = true, dpi = 96);
```
I have tried to use the basic svg (multiple paths) and also to group each path (with only itself) without changes in the result.
# Answer
Lame solution: creating stepped pyramid with offset. I realized that scale will not worked for motives with holes inside. Offset seems then more appropriate than scale for my application (creation of stamps)
It takes ages to render, but it could be enough for simple patterns. Any better solution are still welcome...
```
module buildPyramidalExtrude(height,maxOffset,nSlices){
heightIncrement = height/nSlices;
offsetIncrement = maxOffset/(nSlices-1);
for(i=[1:nSlices])
linear_extrude(height=i*heightIncrement)
offset(r = maxOffset-(i-1)*offsetIncrement)
children();
}
buildPyramidalExtrude(4,2.5,20)
import(file = "Farm/cow.svg", center = true);
```
> 6 votes
# Answer
What you seem to want is not per-path scale but offset. This is an open PR in OpenSCAD and hopefully will be upstream soon.
> 2 votes
# Answer
One option is to use `minkowski()` to combine the svg with a cone. On the positive side, it gives a rather nice result, but the downsides are:
* it's pretty slow
* it fattens the bottom rather than shrinking the top, so depending on your needs you may have to invert the image, run `minkowski`, then invert again.
Another option is to convert to grayscale **png and apply a blur** with an external tool, then to import using `surface()` (the gray blur will become a nice slope). That will both fatten the bottom and shrink the top, but keeping only the top half should give the desired result.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Late to the question, but I'm working on a similar project as the question presents. My solution is to open the SVG file in Inkscape (version \< 1.x) and use the Path to OpenSCAD extension to create a set of points for each entity.
The extension generates paths based on the desired extrusion height and places each set of points in its own module. In so doing, one can scale each individual entity and manipulate each one as desired.
Image from linked site.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: openscad
---
|
thread-19911
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19911
|
How can a speaker or active buzzer be connected to the Arduino 2560/RAMPS 1.4 boards to provide alerts in response to M300 commands in the g-code
|
2022-09-12T14:15:24.107
|
# Question
Title: How can a speaker or active buzzer be connected to the Arduino 2560/RAMPS 1.4 boards to provide alerts in response to M300 commands in the g-code
My Prusa i3 does not appear to have any sound device incorporated. I've read "Writing G-Code: Audible Alert at end of print" and it seems everything needed to implement audible alerts is built into the G-code syntax and firmware but my rig appears to be lacking the necessary noise maker.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I just looked in the Marlin FW `pins_RAMPS.h` where the pin assignments are located:
```
#define BEEPER_PIN 37
```
Please check for yourself. I assume you run Marlin, but my version is old and may not be correct.
As you mentioned there is no LCD on your printer so most likely this pin is free, just need to find it.
Also, just a warning, use a proper buzzer or beeper module with the onboard transistor. Do not connect a buzzer directly to the signal pin as the current draw can kill your controller.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Possible is this an idea found at the octoprint web site?
https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/pwmbuzzer/
---
Tags: prusa-i3, g-code, ramps-1.4, arduino-mega-2650
---
|
thread-20363
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20363
|
Automatic Z-homing when connected
|
2022-12-23T12:55:43.633
|
# Question
Title: Automatic Z-homing when connected
We have the problem that our machine automatically performs a Z-homing when our software connects to the Arduino, but only the Z-axis. We would like to disable it, but could not find the line in Marlin to do it. Any idea?
---
The software we developed is called OC-Manager3 and the machine is the OCLab3 which is working like a 3D printer but doing different jobs of analytical chemistry.
However, if we serially connect our Raspberry Pi either from Thonny or Visual Studio to the Arduino (booting the Arduino), the same Z-homing occurred. Thus, it is not related to our software but obviously to Marlin.
# Answer
Seems like you are looking in the wrong place. I am pretty sure that this unnamed software of yours is what sends a homing command when opening connection. Best way to test is just connect to it from another control software like Pronterface, Arduino IDE or any USB serial software and it will not do that because they don't tell the printer to home Z.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: firmware, z-axis
---
|
thread-20371
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20371
|
How do I remove stuck on PETG filament from stock Ender 3 bed?
|
2022-12-24T15:08:54.940
|
# Question
Title: How do I remove stuck on PETG filament from stock Ender 3 bed?
So I’m kind of a newbie to 3D printing. I got my Ender 3 about 3 days ago and some PETG filament to accompany it. These are the slicer settings:
* Hotend: 235 °C
* Initial bed temperature: 80 °C
* Bed temperature: 70 °C
* Layer height: 0.12 mm
I also use a brim on the outside of the prints. Every time I print, some of the bottom layers stick onto the bed. I’ve seen somewhere that if you heat it to 70 °C you can scrape it off, but that doesn’t work for me.
# Answer
Spray all remainings with Isopropyl Alcohol and try rubbing it with a paper towel or sponge. Isopropyl Alcohol works as a release agent in this case and it may also soften these residues a bit. Try gently scraping it with a scraper, but be careful not to damage the surface, since the stock magnetic beds are quite soft. Scraping it with a utility knife or razor blade is not recommended, because it may permanently destroy the print surface.
Try to heat the bed a bit more to 80 °C. Heating it above 80 °C is not recommended, as it may damage surface adhesion. After that, wash the surface with a sponge in warm water. You can repeat this process until you get satisfying effect.
If you print in these places, these remainings may stick to new prints and could disappear after some time. For future prints, follow Oscar's advices to avoid similar issues.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, petg, bed
---
|
thread-20373
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20373
|
What happened during this print disaster, and is it salvageable?
|
2022-12-25T00:12:52.673
|
# Question
Title: What happened during this print disaster, and is it salvageable?
Well, I know what my critical error was, I was in a hurry and set a print running before leaving it unattended for about 8 hours; came home to a great enormous disaster.
What on earth happened? Perhaps more importantly, is anything here salvageable, or do I just need to get a new printhead?
# Answer
> 4 votes
It's difficult to determine if there is anything inside this mass of plastic, but a heat gun applied carefully will allow you to extract it.
When a hot end is assembled, the heat sink (finned cylinder) has a heat break threaded into it (slender metal tube) which then threads into the heater block (block with wires for the heater cartridge and thermistor).
The heater block has the nozzle threaded into it, but it's important to not seat the shoulder of the nozzle on the heater block. Leave a gap of 0.5 to 1.0 mm between the nozzle shoulder and the heater block. Tighten the heat break into the block until it contacts the nozzle. Secure it firmly, but don't snap anything off!
Heat the assembly to the highest safe temperature, between 220 °C and 250 °C and tighten the nozzle again.
Step 7 from cnx-software states the same thing as the paragraph above, but also provides a graphic showing the components:
Your photo shows the results of a nozzle that might have been leaking filament at the top of the nozzle and below the heat break, leaking out of both the top and bottom of the heater block.
Melting the plastic with a heat gun may release the metal components and if you are very careful and very lucky, you won't damage the wiring for the heater cartridge and thermistor. One can expect that the wiring will be damaged, however and you may have to replace the two items. This is advised, as the melted plastic will bond with the wiring and insulation, making it very difficult to manipulate them during assembly.
If you are determined, you won't have to purchase a new hot end and if you have the financial wherewithal, you may want to purchase one anyway.
# Answer
> 7 votes
I'd say you are quite lucky, the hotend (as seen in the second photo) is fairly intact!
I've had a similar problem recently, but in my case it destroyed an Ultimaker core module hotend, and salvage would have taken too much time.
> What happened during this print disaster
What probably happened is that the print has become unstuck from the build plate or a part of the support is caught by the hotend blocking the deposition of filament to the print object and instead it ricocheted back against the nozzle. This is not uncommon.
> , and is it salvageable?
I'd say yes. You should be able to get the silicone sock off and clean the hotend. Heating the hotend and scraping it off seems do-able from the photo you provided, it may require some time and elbow grease.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-failure, repair
---
|
thread-20365
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20365
|
How to use organic supports in the slicer?
|
2022-12-23T16:04:02.453
|
# Question
Title: How to use organic supports in the slicer?
How to use organic supports in PrusaSlicer or Cura? I heard that it is possible, but I can’t find this option in these slicers.
# Answer
As far as I know, PrusaSlicer organic tree support isn't available to the public yet. PrusaSlicer is rumored to use the same code as the Pull request made by Thomas Rahm on his Cura fork who started working on this code around 2020.
The "organic" tree support contributed by Thomas Rahm is also available in the 5.3.0-alpha+xmas Cura version in Cura, which showcases that new tree support. You can find more information in the article Special alpha: new (Xmas) tree supports for UltiMaker Cura
Full disclosure I'm one of the Cura developers.
> 5 votes
# Answer
As Cura is mentioned in the question, it could be solved using Cura. The only organic support in Cura is called `Tree` as option of `Support Structure` in UltiMaker Cura's advanced options.
This option works best if you want support, but do not want Cura to build it on top of your end product (`Support Placement` -\> `Touching Buildplate`).
This would lead to the generation of an organic like structure for the support structure:
> 5 votes
# Answer
It looks like Organic supports is not available yet. That’s why it is not in the slicer.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, support-structures, prusaslicer
---
|
thread-20383
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20383
|
Failed filament dryer deformed my filament. Is it salvageable?
|
2022-12-27T17:36:22.483
|
# Question
Title: Failed filament dryer deformed my filament. Is it salvageable?
I bought a very famed filament dryer (won't mention the brand) which turned bad on me as I got a failed one; it got exceedingly hot (uneven 60-68 °C) and deformed an almost full PLA spool.
Aside from the spool itself (which was made from recycled PLA), the filament suffered deformation as it contracted and I had to disassemble the whole thing. I haven't checked yet if the diameter suffered a deviation enough to make it nonviable for the printer (it's 1.75 mm), but if not, is it salvageable or should I play it safe?
The PLA itself wasn't also very high quality, I'd like to add, but I don't want the approximately 800g left to go to waste.
# Answer
It all depends on how much the filament is deformed. If there are not many conjoined places, and you can easily unroll the spool, it should be fine. You should also check filament diameter, because if it is too thick, it may clog in some places.
Although, I wouldn't use such filament for important prints. Keep it for prototyping and calibration.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: pla, filament, heat-management, recycling
---
|
thread-5212
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5212
|
Remove the Marlin Boot screen
|
2018-01-02T18:19:05.013
|
# Question
Title: Remove the Marlin Boot screen
I added a custom boot screen to marlin by adding `_Bootscreen.h` to the project root folder and it works fine. The problem is that the custom screen shows quickly and disappear then the marlin boot screen is then displayed for a longer time. I want to remove the marlin boot screen.
I dug around in the source code and found a `void lcd_bootscreen` function in the `ultralcd_impl_HD44780.h` header. This seems to be the function that is loading the marlin's boot screen due to the comments in the code. I added `return;` to the **first line** of code in this function but the marlin's boot screen is still loading.
How can I remove the marlin boot screen. How can make my custom boot screen wait for more time?
The marlin version is 1.1.8.
# Answer
> 4 votes
You can add return; command in the `ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h` file.
```
void lcd_bootscreen() {
#if ENABLED(SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN)
lcd_custom_bootscreen();
#endif
return; // Add this line
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
So after some search:
1. You can't (at least should not) remove the Marlin bootscreen according to this issue `SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN` hides Marlin logo, quote:
> We wanted an additional logo - not a replacement of the Marlin logo.
2. According to the code here there's a constant `CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN_TIMEOUT` taking the default value of 2500 which is 2.5 seconds but you can redefine it in your `_Boostrap.h` file.
This constant is only available for DOGM lcd screens which is chosen by the code here in `ultralcd.cpp` and without more details on your machine it's hard to tell from `Conditionals_LCD.h` which will be used.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I was able to remove the Marlin bootscreen and still retain the custom one by commenting out the following line in `marlinui_DOGM.cpp` (`Marlin/Marlin/src/lcd/dogm/marlinui_DOGM.cpp`):
```
void MarlinUI::show_bootscreen() {
TERN_(SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN, show_custom_bootscreen());
// show_marlin_bootscreen();
}
```
Tested and working as of Marlin 2.0.x.
---
Tags: marlin
---
|
thread-20121
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20121
|
Cura UI slice progress bar read data from CuraEngine
|
2022-10-24T14:17:57.570
|
# Question
Title: Cura UI slice progress bar read data from CuraEngine
I have a simple browser based interface that uses php's exec function to run CuraEngine on an stl file that a client uploads. It is based on the source code provided by Jesse Campbell in his 3dpartprice.com site. I am looking for a way to make a progress bar of the slicing process. Does CuraEngine output data about the slice progress? The Cura app with a GUI has a progress bar that updates while the model is being sliced. What data is driving this progress bar? Any suggestions of different approaches to get a progress bar from CuraEngine's slicing process?
# Answer
> 2 votes
CuraEngine transfer the progress and slice data with the help of the C++ library libArcus which is a wrapper around the Google Protobuf library. The Python binding for libArcus are pyArcus.
If you want to send messages to CuraEngine with Arcus check how it is done in the CuraEngineBackend plugin on the Cura side and the communication source code for the CuraEngine side.
But please take note of the CuraEngine, libArcus, and pyArcus licenses these also apply when using them in a cloud slicer.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
---
|
thread-20381
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20381
|
Creality Ender-3 V2 Not Doing Anything (Hard to Explain)
|
2022-12-27T03:45:17.250
|
# Question
Title: Creality Ender-3 V2 Not Doing Anything (Hard to Explain)
I’ve recently obtained a Creality Ender-3 V2 3D printer and have tried setting it up. With it came 2 modifications (CR Touch auto bed leveling kit and dual Z-axis kit).
The installation of the dual Z-axis kit was fine, and so was the CR Touch. Before I tried to install firmware for the CR Touch, the printer seemed to do everything fine. On activation, the Creality startup screen appeared with a loading bar. After the bar loaded it gave me the basic options. I was able to check and see that the current firmware version was 1.0.4. Also, during the wiring of the CR Touch kit, I checked the motherboard version, which was version 4.2.2. After it was functioning fine, I decided to install the CR Touch firmware.
When I tried to install the firmware for the first few times into the printer's SD card reader, nothing happened. I then decided to try plugging it into the card reader inside the display. When I booted it up this time, it displayed the Creality startup screen with no download bar, three “0.00” at the bottom which would flash to “???” every second, and a number above those three things which switched from 21 to 22 every second or two. After some time the number stuck at 22. After this, I took the card out of the display and turned the printer off. Since then, the printer has done nothing.
Now when the 3D printer turns on, it’s just the Creality startup screen with no loading bar. It stays on this screen and nothing changes, nothing happens. The printer also does not seem to connect to my computer (USB or Wi-Fi), does not accept anything from the card reader on the front of the machine, and does not accept anything from the card reader inside the display.
Ever since this has begun, I’ve done the following:
* Inserting the card with many different pieces of firmware into the display card reader and front card reader. Result: Nothing happened.
* Inserting the card with a .txt file containing `M502 M500` (factory reset code and setting save code) and renaming it to `.gcode`. Result: Nothing happened.
* Connecting a computer to the printer via a USB cord. Result: Computer detects nothing.
* Sending `M502` and `M500` to the printer via Creality Print software. Result: Nothing happened because no printer was found.
* Checked the file system and partitioning style. Result: FAT32 and MBR.
* Used Pronterface to try and connect to the printer. Result: Weird error message reading “Update failed, no SD/TF-card or error.” I tried this with and without the SD card in both the display card reader and the front card reader.
* Have tried Googling many different answers to this issue. Unable to exactly pinpoint anything the problem. I found one Reddit post about the “Update failed, no SD/TF-card or error” error, but it does not have any helpful replies. Result: Nothing helpful.
It’s been 2 days of continuous work on the printer and nothing has come about to signify an end to this suffering besides the “Update failed, no SD/TF-card or error” error. I’m tired of nothing working and unrelated answers, so I’ve decided to ask the question myself.
# Answer
> 5 votes
I’ve figured it out. The issue was that the SD card was faulty, even though it seemed to work perfectly fine. I went out and bought a new one and then everything started working again. I tried flashing the firmware I tried before and it worked perfectly. Even the auto leveling works. Thanks for the help but it seems like the answer was again a very weird solution, a very difficult to find solution.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, firmware, microsd
---
|
thread-20380
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20380
|
Z stepper is reversed after update to 32 bit v4.2.7
|
2022-12-27T01:42:21.333
|
# Question
Title: Z stepper is reversed after update to 32 bit v4.2.7
I've just updated my Ender 3 to 32 bit version 4.2.7 and the Z stepper is reversed.
* Ender 3
* 32 bit 4.2.7 board
* Marlin Bugfix 2.0.x
# Answer
First, you can get the right config files from the Marlin Github Config page and choose the config file in:
```
config/examples/Creality/Ender-3/CrealityV427/
```
It should in theory solve the issue.
If not you can change the direction in the firmware like that:
```
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
```
Alternatively, you can invert the plug on the Z motor.
> -1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-20322
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20322
|
Same parameters lead to very different results
|
2022-12-14T17:37:34.800
|
# Question
Title: Same parameters lead to very different results
This summer I bought a white PLA+ filament from Sunlu. After some trials, I found these settings in Ultimaker Cura for my Dremel 3D45:
The layer thickness is 0.2 mm. The objects were printed almost perfectly for my needs:
Now, after 3 months, I tried to print with the same material and of course with the same parameters. Even if the infill seems quite good:
the walls are terrible:
I'm using a dryer before and during the printing. I'm lost because I cannot think what can be happened.
The other variable is the environment temperature in the box: this summer was about 20 °C, now it is 12-13 °C. But given the use of the dryer and given that the Dremel is closed it should not matter.
Could the filament be damaged? Any other idea?
# Answer
This looks like a clogged nozzle.
Clean your nozzle, and if you have a setup with a Bowden tube coming up to the nozzle, like an Ender 3, check that it is clean, and has good, strong contact with the nozzle.
The low ambient temperature is not helping, but should create warping, not a total lack of material.
In addition, make sure that you have a silicone sock on your heat block to protect from too much heat loss and have a more even temperature.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, pla, filament, dremel-3d45
---
|
thread-20391
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20391
|
Ender 3 Pro reads SD G-code file names but won't print them
|
2022-12-28T21:34:13.830
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro reads SD G-code file names but won't print them
I have updated my Ender 3 Pro to 4.2.7. The printer boots up, I can move X, Y, and Z-axis from the **Prepare** \> **Axis** screens. The printer also correctly reads the G-code file names from an inserted SD card.
However, when it should be printing based on G-code commands, the printer just stops. Printing used to work with the same SD card and make prints.
I updated the firmware with: `Ender-3 Pro_4.2.7_BLTouch_Marlin2.0.1_V1.1.2_TMC2225.bin`
I am stuck!! Any ideas?
# Answer
Always try a different SD card. Make sure that it is formatted as FAT32 (maximum size 32GB).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, g-code
---
|
thread-11750
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11750
|
Slicer for 32 Bit Operating systems?
|
2020-01-12T13:51:21.467
|
# Question
Title: Slicer for 32 Bit Operating systems?
I currently only have access to an old, 32 bit OS and need to slice a couple things. While there are a lot of slicers around, most popular ones, for example Ultimaker Cura 4, need to run on a 64 bit operation system.
What somewhat recent (late 2018, 2019) options offering common abilities are there that run on older computers?
# Answer
> 6 votes
The last version of Ultimaker Cura that supported 32-bit Operation Systems was Cura 2.3.1 of 2016, which of course has a lot of items not yet in it and doesn't fit the demand of offering some update at worst from 2018.
32-bit support is starting to fade from the support of projects, as 64-bit makes a lot of things much easier and faster and 32 Bit Windows likewise is pretty much a dead-end branch with Windows 7 Support being discontinued on January 14th, 2020. For example, the Slicer project says on their documentation of the May 2019 4.10 version: "We do not make 32 bit builds available."
## Yet there is rescue with the Slic3r-Family!
Slic3r 1.3.0 is open source, available as 32 and 64-bit versions, and was released in November 2018, making it somewhat up to date. You need to customize a lot of settings in it, but it is after all quite a powerful slicer - for which you have to write your own Start Code, define your filament settings and machine.
Repetier Host 2.1.6 is likewise a 32-bit application. It's technically a console with slicing features and uses one of several engines to slice - including the Slic3r and Slic3r Prusa Edition engines, which run on 32-bit. In comparison to Slic3r, I find its UI for placing items a little more user-friendly. It does pull the settings from Slic3r, if you have that installed.
Slic3r Prusa Edition/PrusaSlicer is a derivate of the Slic3r project. 2.2.9 was released in December 2019. It too runs on 32 bit systems. Even 2.4.2 of the end of 2022 has 32 bit support. It is, UI-wise, even more comfortable than Repetier Host and is somewhat similar to Ultimaker Cura 4.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You can try using C6 Slicer software, which is a Cloud-based one, no need of an application version. I think they are still in development phase, but still does give some good prints.
---
Tags: slicing
---
|
thread-20399
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20399
|
Tool for modifing STLs?
|
2022-12-30T09:44:21.947
|
# Question
Title: Tool for modifing STLs?
I'm looking for a tool to modify STL files to make changes, before printing it. I know that it exists, but I don't know the name of the software.
For example, I have a STL file for a ball and I want to modify it to be more egg shaped by extruding or pushing. I'm looking for something like in The Sims games, where I could edit terrains just by clicking mouse and creating holes and hills.
# Answer
**Sculpting** should be the tool you are looking for.
You can find a lot of sculpting software on the web, including free ones. I personally use Meshmixer and Blender for simple works.
> 7 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, software, stl
---
|
thread-20405
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20405
|
Print falls off the bed the majority of the way through a print
|
2023-01-01T19:43:25.830
|
# Question
Title: Print falls off the bed the majority of the way through a print
I have an Anker Make M5, and I am trying to print something that uses the majority of the build height, its roughly a 7 h print, I got an alert 6 h in that there was an error, checked and the print was on the floor and filament spooling out.
I don't think it's an adhesion issue as smaller prints are fine, and before it came off there was no sign of lifting.
Does anyone know what could cause this and fix that issue? So far I have added a raft to prints and increased bed temperature to 70 °C.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If a print falls over you have an adhesion issue. Do note that a raft is not the most sturdy support (depending on your options), there is always an air gap between the raft top surface and the bottom print surface. A raft is generally most useful when printing materials that have a considerable amount of shrinkage when cooling.
Increasing bed temperature might not be ideal either, depending on your material, if PLA, 70 °C may be too hot and thus too flexible.
Maybe a brim or adding "mouse ears" to your print help to improve adhesion.
---
Tags: 3d-models
---
|
thread-19917
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19917
|
How to keep model flat in resin printing?
|
2022-09-13T16:08:16.637
|
# Question
Title: How to keep model flat in resin printing?
I am having some trouble with model adherence to my print bed. As shown in the attached photo, my model is pulled away at the sides leaving it bowed even though it is designed to be flat. Other than this "bowing", the model is of good quality.
The model is printed solid on an Anycubic Photon M3 Plus with Anycubic 3D Printing UV Sensitive Resin. My print settings are:
* Bottom layer count: 6
* Bottom layer exposure: 22 secs (also tried 30 secs and 40 secs with the same results)
* Normal layer height: 0.05 mm
* Normal layer exposure: 2.5 secs
* Off time: 0.5 secs
* Z lift height: 6 mm
* Z lift speed : 360 mm/sec
* Z lift retract: 6 mm
The bed is aligned. Could anyone suggest what is wrong and what I could try to remove this "bowing" effect?
# Answer
It looks like the top of your model (The lowest part in the picture) is wider than the bottom (The part in contact with the build plate).
This means that there is a substantial lip with nothing under it to support it, or to attach it to the build plate.
If I remember my rules of force correctly (and I may not) this means that the force excerpted on the part of the object furthest from the build plate is the square of the force on the part nearest to it that's touching the build plate.
By 3D printing standards this is quite a big number. You either need to angle the model to reduce this force (Draw a triangle from the corner to the big touching the base plate, and angle it so that the triangle is as shallow as possible, or to add additional material in to make that angle as shallow as possible.
I would suggest that you don't place your model flat on the build plate, instead angle it at maybe 30 and use heavy supports.
> 1 votes
# Answer
## Print orientation
Your model is pulled up from the FEP film with a huge force. It releases from the film first at the corners, then progresses to the center. The force bends the model down as it is still flexible, so it creates a bent item.
This can be mitigated by reducing the area that you pull at. Commonly, you'll turn the item so the area is minimized, and you also might want to angle the item. This will cost some material in support structure, but you reduce the force on the part that can deform it in printing.
> 2 votes
# Answer
* It's most likely that your bed does not mechanically reach the correct position before the printer starts curing the resin. Many printers and slicer software allow setting `wait_time_before_cure` to e.g. 6 s (I don't know about your printer/slicer). That means that once your bed has presumably reached its position for curing, it waits another 6 s to settle mechanically. If your slicer software does not allow to set `wait_time_before_cure` (or similarly named) but your printer can handle `wait_time_before_cure`, you can use the open source tool UVtools to do that. (Edit: I just saw a discussion so it's basically possible with your machine even though not optimally so.)
* It's much less likely that your FEP has become less transparent towards the edges of the vat. You could fix that by putting a new FEP on.
* **Bottom layer exposure**: Once you increased `wait_time_before_cure`, you can go with something around 7 s.
* **Z lift speed: 360 mm/sec**: if the printer could achieve the acceleration necessary, it meant that your bed could jump within less than a second to the top of the rails :-) Set it to something in the order of 50 to 80 mm/s.
* Peel force is very unlikely an issue with this 3D model and orientation on the print bed. We have printed 1000 s of similar models flat on the print bed, so orientation is likely ok.
* Leveling of the bed seems ok as the peeling happens on all sides symmetrically? If it wasn't symmetrical, bad leveling might also have an influence.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, adhesion, resin, build-plate
---
|
thread-20272
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20272
|
How to generate a file for resin printing from layer by layer images?
|
2022-11-30T13:11:23.057
|
# Question
Title: How to generate a file for resin printing from layer by layer images?
I would like to print an object on an Elegoo Mars 3, object which is generated layer by layer via other means.
So as input I have a series of BMP or PNG black and white images, one for layer, and I need to somehow assemble them to obtain a CTB printable file.
The solution can either involve generating a 3D model to be loaded in Chitubox, or it can involve generating directly a CTB file.
How can do that?
# Answer
> 1 votes
You can do this with the open-source tool UVtools. I don't know if there is a built-in method but you can certainly achieve it by writing a short script.
If you don't find the option in the menu, you can ask in the forum. Tiago, the father of UVTools, is a very kind and knowledgeable person.
---
Tags: slicing, resin
---
|
thread-7264
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7264
|
How to set the Z home offset
|
2018-10-23T19:53:08.303
|
# Question
Title: How to set the Z home offset
I have what I thought would be a simple question.
I don't have an auto leveling probe, I do my leveling manually with 4 screws and a piece of paper (I measured the thickness to 0.1 mm).
For the longest time I would have trouble with the first layer, sometimes having to give the bed screws a quarter turn to bring the bed up a bit. I would see that the nozzle seemed quite far away from the bed. This went on for the longest time and I just chalked it up to the quality of my printer.
I realized recently that when I level the bed, I am inserting a piece of paper in between the nozzle and the bed. Obviously, I should be taking the thickness into account as a 0.1mm thick piece of paper accounts for 50 % higher than the nozzle should be for a 0.2 mm first layer height.
My question is, how do I set (either in Cura or directly in Marlin config) the z home offset to account for the 0.1 mm thickness of my calibration paper?
# Answer
> 8 votes
It is preferred to get the distance correct by hardware changes (leveling screws). But it is possible to do it with software. You can not only change the Z offset in the slicer or in the configuration of Marlin, but also with G-code commands.
The "paper drag" method is perfect for determining the correct Z level. Once you leveled with the paper, you do not need to create an offset to account for the paper thickness, however, there are purists that do that. So basically, what we call Z=0 is in fact Z="paper thickness", unless you are a purist. But a slightly larger gap makes printing much easier. Too small heights cause e.g. rippling effects or too much pressure build-up in the nozzle. In order to change your offset after leveling, you could try one of the following methods. This is sometimes a useful method for creating a little extra offset for printing PETG, but personally I do not do that.
**In Ultimaker Cura**: Open the plugin manager ("Toolbox"-\>"Browse packages...") and install "Z Offset Setting", a new parameter will be available in the "Build Plate Adhesion" settings menu called "Z Offset". (See also this older, not up-to-date answer)
**In Marlin configuration file**, modify the MANUAL\_Z\_HOME\_POS constant:
```
//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
```
**In G-code**:
By adding the following lines to your start G-code (see e.g. this answer) using the `G92` G-code command:
```
G0 Z0.2 ; Move the head to 0.2 mm (so now 0.3 on your machine)
G92 Z0 ; Call this Z = 0
```
or when you are able to connect to the printer over USB using a printer terminal (e.g. Pronterface, Repetier or OctoPrint) using the `M206` G-code command:
> Use M206 to apply a persistent offset to the native home position and coordinate space. This effectively shifts the coordinate space in the negative direction.
```
M206 Z-0.2 ; Will raise the Z height by 0.2 mm
M500 ; Stores the offset in memory
```
Alternatively, when you cannot connect through a terminal, putting the last 2 lines in a text file and saving that as a `.gcode` file on an SD card and "printing" the file will also store the new offset (if `M500` is enabled in the configuration file: `#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands`)
# Answer
> 1 votes
Based on Oscar's solution using M206, I found it convenient to add in my MicroSD card a hierarchy of such gcode files to set the Z offset to every possible value in some range. For example, "printing" the file z\_offset/1mm/1mm2/1mm275.gcode will set (permanently) the Z offset to 1.275 millimeters.
This hack is a workaround to the lack of Z offset setting in the printer's menu, and is an alternative to "hardware" Z tuning by moving the endstop. It can be useful when using different build plates with varying thickness, or attaching a pen or any other tool to the print head.
Here is a simple bash script which creates the files taking the MicroSD card location as argument:
```
#!/bin/bash -e
mkdir $1/z_offset
for i in {9..0}
do
mkdir $1/z_offset/"$i"mm
for j in {9..0}
do
mkdir $1/z_offset/"$i"mm/"$i"mm"$j"
for d in 00 25 50 75
do
echo -e \
M206 Z-$i.$j$d\\nM500\\nM117 Z-offset="$i"."$j$d"mm \
>$1/z_offset/"$i"mm/"$i"mm"$j"/"$i"mm"$j$d".gcode
done
done
done
```
I chose a 0.025mm resolution, as 0.1mm is slightly to coarse to adjust for first layer issues. Tested successfully on a Creality Ender 3 printer (which seems to have a 0.015mm resolution on the Z-axis).
# Answer
> 1 votes
Assuming you already know your Z-offset value, there are several ways to set Z-offset for your printer:
* **on printer's display**
On the printer's LCD, navigate to **Control** \> **Motion** \> **Z Offset**. Here you can set the Z-Offset value. Next, navigate to **Control** \> **Store settings** to store this offset permanently to EEPROM.
The location of this setting may vary depending on the printer and firmware, but it is usually located in the **Control** section.
* **in slicer**
Z-offset value can be set in slicer, from where it will be added at the beginning of each generated G-code file.
+ **PrusaSlicer**
Navigate to **Printer Settings** \> **Size and coordinates** \> **Z offset**. Requires an **advanced** view mode.
+ **SuperSlicer**
Navigate to **Printer Settings** \> **Size and coordinates** \> **Z offset**. Requires an **expert** view mode.
+ **Cura**
Navigate to **Print settings** \> **Build Plate Adhesion** \> **Z Offset**. Requires **Z Offset Setting** plugin installed.
* **in G-code**
It can be set with `M851` command, followed by `M500` to store it in the EEPROM. For example:
```
M851 Z-0.69;
M500;
```
* **in firmware**
In **Configuration.h**, find `NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET` and set third parameter (Z-offset):
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET {
-53.5, // X-offset
8, // Y-offset
-0.69 } // Z-offset <-- set it here
```
---
I usually set it via **printer's display**, since it seems like the fastest and most practical way.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You don't! Level the bed such that you know the nozzle is above the bed. Stop the print. Disable the steppers. Let it all cool down. Tram the bed (or what you call level). Then start the print again. It doesn't matter what first layer height your slicer thinks it is. All that matters is that it sticks and doesn't elephant foot. Note, if you are using glue stick or white glue (like I do) the thickness of the glue layer will be different between the edge of the glass (I assume you're using glass, otherwise you're never going to get a good tram) and the starting position of the prints.
---
Tags: marlin, ultimaker-cura, bed-leveling
---
|
thread-20406
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20406
|
TPU on Ender 3 S1 Pro only works when flow is set to 600 %
|
2023-01-01T19:51:18.443
|
# Question
Title: TPU on Ender 3 S1 Pro only works when flow is set to 600 %
First time trying the EasyPrint Flex TPU filament. When printing a solid, I can see clear lines with plenty of air on both sides. This gives me the idea that it is not extruding enough filament.
I've tried many tweaks:
* Adding/removing tension to the extruder
* Pulling at the filament to see if the gears have a good grip at it (they do).
* Printing at ridiculously slow speeds (5 mm/s)
* Bypassing the runout sensor, in case that is adding too much friction or something.
* Adding flow rate in Klipper (maxes out at 200 %, slight improvement)
* Adding flow rate in Cura to 600 %
The last tweak makes the most apparent improvement. Printing at 25 mm/s, it's somewhat decent. There's still some air going through each layer, but much less. The result is still dissatisfactory.
As this printer uses a direct extruder there shouldn't be any problem with the feeding.
Can I now conclude that this is simply a crappy filament and my best bet is to buy something better? If not, then am I missing something obvious here?
# Answer
This is the Creality Sprite Extruder Pro.
The tension is controlled by a bolt with a square-shaped nut that is pressing on the lever with a spring. To increase tension to the gears that feed the filament the adjustment bolt is turned clockwise.
However, you have to be very careful not to turn it too far, or the bolt will unhook from the internal nut. Turning anti-clockwise in this situation does nothing.
If you're lucky, like I was, it will get stuck in a position of max tension no matter what you do. If unlucky, the various parts can go into the gears and cause permanent damage.
It is a most unfortunate design as there is no way to tell if you turned it too far!
In my case, having it at max tension at all times caused it to under-extrude. Adding more flow alleviated the problem somewhat. I had to open everything up to see what was going on there. In my case, just putting the nut back on the bolt solved my problem.
TPU is much softer than PLA so it's more sensitive to tension. While PLA can print okay at max tension, TPU cannot.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, klipper, tpu
---
|
thread-20403
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20403
|
Prints coming out with jagged lines on the sides, rough edges
|
2023-01-01T17:46:26.217
|
# Question
Title: Prints coming out with jagged lines on the sides, rough edges
I am pretty new to 3D-printing, and I have just finished assembling my Prusa i3 a few days ago.
I finished up basic calibrations, which went fine, but noticed my prints were coming out with a bunch of rough lines on the sides. I looked online, and saw some things about adjusting flow rate, so I took that down from 95 to 90. I am not really sure what else to try right now. I have messed with layer height, which is at 0.2 mm now.
I have double-checked belt tensions and messed around with it, but the belt status seems to be hovering around 267 pretty consistently. I did try loosening it a lot more, but got the around the same, ~270 at max, even when extremely loose. Not sure what the belt tension should be feeling like, but it seems to check out with the guides.
I would appreciate any help or advice.
Calibration cube printed after tensioning the belts:
# Answer
It must have been something with the G-code, or how I was slicing it. I tried printing from the files that were already loaded on the SD card when I got it and it came out much better. I then modeled a cube and sliced it up carefully in PrusaSlicer and it also came out almost perfectly. Thanks to everyone who chimed in, really appreciate it and hope this can help someone else.
> 2 votes
# Answer
This is called **Layer shifting**. You should check belts tension and motor pulleys. It looks like your problem occurs only on the X-axis.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, calibration, prusaslicer, layer-shifting
---
|
thread-20077
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20077
|
What are these defects caused by?
|
2022-10-15T19:18:16.123
|
# Question
Title: What are these defects caused by?
I am printing PETG with my Kobra Max.
Material: ERYONE PETG Filament 1.75 mm
The recommended print settings are 220-240 °C.
I am using a nozzle temperature of 230 °C and bed temperature of 70 °C.
Can anybody tell me what these defects are caused by?
# Answer
It looks like your build-plate (print bed) is out-of-level. Specifically, your printer's nozzle is **too close** to the build plate as witnessed by the first layer being semi-translucent in some areas but not others; This indicates it's very thin.
The defect you see is parts of the first layer being 'peeled' up by the printhead as it moves by, as excess plastic has built up in those areas, causing the hot-end to smash into them and delaminate them as it attempts to print other parts of the part.
If you don't already know how to level/tram your bed, check out your printer's manual for instructions (if it has any) or read a Bed-Levelling guide
> 1 votes
---
Tags: petg, anycubic-kobra-max
---
|
thread-12130
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12130
|
Does it matter what kind of FEP film I use for my SLA printer?
|
2020-03-05T16:00:04.440
|
# Question
Title: Does it matter what kind of FEP film I use for my SLA printer?
I have a Phrozen Sonic Mini printer, and of course I'm eventually going to need to replace the FEP film on the resin vat. Is there anything I need to take in to consideration when buying some replacement film? Will any legitimate FEP film I find on Amazon work?
# Answer
> 1 votes
# **Yes***
Any FEP film you find will work fine with any SLA printer you come across. Some may work 'better' or 'worse' depending on the quality of the film, but, for the most part they will all just work.
The caveat is that you must ensure the film is of the correct dimension for the resin vat, If it's too small you may be unable to clamp the sheet in taut enough to get a proper seal.
**ASWELL**, Some SLA printers do *not* have a standard 'sheet' style FEP, instead opting for a proprietary/semi-proprietary 'cartridge' style FEP. In these cases, unless you can find some form of 'adapter' or aftermarket upgrade, you will be unable to swap FEP films outside of said cartridges sold by your printer manufacturer.
In the case of your Phrozen Sonic Mini, It looks like it uses the standard sheet-style method, You should have no problems with replacing the FEP with an aftermarket sheet.
---
Tags: sla, maintenance
---
|
thread-19751
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19751
|
Ok to shutdown printer after unloading filament, with no cool down?
|
2022-08-11T11:30:18.233
|
# Question
Title: Ok to shutdown printer after unloading filament, with no cool down?
With a fan cooled, all metal hotend, is there any reason to wait for the hotend to cool, before shutting down power, if the filament has been unloaded?
When leaving the filament on the machine after a print, I’m normally in the habit of waiting until the hotend has cooled down below the filament’s glass temperature before turning the printer off, because without the hotend fan running and the heat block hot, the filament can get softened up in cold end and potentially jam next time. But if there is no filament, would it stand to reason there isn’t enough remaining plastic in the hotend to get heat creep? And it doesn’t matter if the cold end gets hot?
# Answer
> 1 votes
While heat creep as you describe it *is* a concern, The more pressing reason to let a hotend cool off first is **safety**.
A hotend at printing temperature can be \>200°C, with little to no airflow it may STAY at a dangerous temperature for a significant amount of time.
Not only can it burn you if it touches, It may be dangerous if the hotend starts moving *after* the printer turns off (In systems that cannot passively maintain Z especially)
Aswell, the remaining thermal energy may be enough to "cook" the residual polymers *inside* the nozzle or hot-zone, which can cause future clogging and extrusion issues.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If there is nothing out of plastic place nearby or inside, it should be fine. It won't take more than a couple of minutes to go down to 100 °C or so, so plastic leftover inside won't cook. Plastic outside from the mount may soften and weaken the assembly, so I would wait until the hotend is at 100 °C or so. With a fan on, it should happen in a minute or so.
---
Tags: all-metal-hotend
---
|
thread-20428
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20428
|
Extruder MK8 won't turn using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin
|
2023-01-06T11:25:15.757
|
# Question
Title: Extruder MK8 won't turn using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin
I am building my own 3D printer and I finish almost everything the only thing that I can't solve is how to start the extruder stepper motor. I am using Pronterface and Marlin. I can't even make the motor rotate in Pronterface when I manually set the extruding temperature to 0 °C and then try to start the motor, it won't start.
What I tried so far:
* Changing to use drivers in Marlin
* Testing drivers to see if they work
* Testing the stepper motor to see if it works
* Seting up Pronterface in different ways
# Answer
You cannot drive the extruder unless you heat the nozzle to at least 170 °C, this is the default value in Marlin. This is to protect your printer from extruding at too low temperatures (which can harm your nozzle or extruder or grind the filament).
You can disable this feature by G-code using M302:
`M302 S0` will disable the limit.
> always allow extrusion (disable checking)
In Marlin, cold extrusion is prevented in the `Configuration.h` file:
```
// @section safety
/**
* Prevent extrusion if the temperature is below EXTRUDE_MINTEMP.
* Add M302 to set the minimum extrusion temperature and/or turn
* cold extrusion prevention on and off.
*
* *** IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO LEAVE THIS OPTION ENABLED! ***
*/
#define PREVENT_COLD_EXTRUSION
#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170
```
> 1 votes
---
Tags: extruder, ramps-1.4
---
|
thread-10345
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10345
|
BLTouch Probing Fails Intermittently
|
2019-06-22T14:14:05.373
|
# Question
Title: BLTouch Probing Fails Intermittently
I just installed my (v3) BLTouch with a vanilla version of Marlin (1.1.9) on my Ender 3 and everything seems to work fine (including auto home) except the probing. It repeatedly does the first three probes (successfully) but then tries the fourth and fails. Even when disabling the axis movement (X/Y stepper motors) the issue persists, which would indicate that it is not a bad connection or physical location dependent. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?
On second thoughts, it seems that it now fails inconsistently, so it is probably a wiring issue, although there is still the issue of it not retracting before printing and not leveling well when it does (although those issues would be more appropriate for a separate question), among other things.
\<Edit: Resolved, I both replaced the BLTouch and updated my firmware, but I believe it was the latter that fixed it.\>
# Answer
> 4 votes
Is your BL Touch a v3 (likely if you've only just purchased it)? If so, make sure you're using the bugfix version of Marlin 1.1.9, which supposedly fixes the compatibility issues. I say supposedly because there's also a capacitor on the mainboard that can be removed to fix the issue, and once I removed it (and commented out the specific v3 bits in the firmware) the BLTouch performed noticeably better than when relying on the bugfix firmware alone.
Teaching Tech on YouTube has a few BLtouch Ender 3 videos, covering the changes for configuring the bugfix firmware and the removal of the capacitor.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Just leaving this note here as I have had my own BLTouch issues, maybe it will help someone else...
V4.2.2 board on an Ender 3. BLTouch V3
I was getting inconsistent failures on both home and bed level, also would drive into the bed on occasions.
I would first recommend keeping your Z stop switch connected (the BLTouch uses the five pin header on the V4 boards, not the Z stop.
I tried with extension cable and connectors, then hard wired the extension cable, also removed the pin header plastic body on the connector going into the board (as it's not the right type, and sits a bit too high) to make the cable ensure good connection to V4 board.
Correctly levelled bed, Z stop, was getting awesome prints with stock Creality firmware for Ender 3 Pro and BLTouch on v4.2.2 board (without adaptor board version).
Still random crashes into the bed and random bed level fails.
I'm racking my brains, replaced nearly all wiring, made sure good connections, changed to Marlin 2.X.X bugfix (which you load onto SD and turn the machine on).
Still random crashes into the bed and bed level fails.
So I'm now getting close to, this has to be a faulty touch surely, I've done my fair share of electronics repair being an electronics engineer by trade.
I'm looking at the touch, I see a solonoid, I checked how it works, the ferrite core looks flush with the top of the touch housing. I turn it a full turn into the touch. I'm getting less errors.
I think I finally ended up turning it about 0.5 mm to a 1 mm into the housing. All seems much better. No fails or crashes since the last tweak of the ferrite grub screw.
If the sensor is a little off on the Ender, and I hear they are, then maybe the position of the ferrite is more sensitive on these machines. That will affect the magnetic flux of the sensor.
I also found a link brief on the V3 probes and there is a section that points out a 0.3 mm gap from top of ferrite to top of probe stated, mine was flush.
I have ordered another just to be on the safe side but I think this may have helped stop my random fails.
---
After moving house, pulling printer down and rebuilding, I had this issue again... groan....
This time I found the issue, its firmware.
After going through 2 touch probes, rewired (again), screening touch to ground and more, still doing it.
So I got the latest marlin 2.0.9, compiled it, boom, not a single failure......
lesson learnt
# Answer
> 1 votes
I had the same problem. It seems it was definitely a loose connection on the BLTouch. I put a wire tie around the neck of the BLTouch, just underneath the mounting feet, to secure the wire and ensure a good connection regardless of position. It has worked great so far.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I found this and remember doing something similar on my TAZ 5 when I installed a proximity sensor on it. See BLTouch V3 on the Creality3D CR-10S Pro:
> Creativity recommends connecting white and black lines to Z+ and downloading the Creativity firmware.
>
> The BLTouch V3.x is enough just to install the jumper cap on the CR-10S Pro and it works well in Default(OD) and 5V Logic Mode. (including Smart V3.0 produced by April 4th, 2019)
>
> This solution is complete and safe. You do not need to remove the capacity or add a pull-up resistor for the BLTouch installation in the CR-10S Pro.
>
> ### Cause of problem: When the inductive proximity sensor is removed from the Ribbon cable breakout adapter, 24V is kept at EL357N pin1
>
> (Anode) through R8, so EL357N pin 4(Collector) is fixed LOW.
>
> ### Solution: Install the Jumper cap between the Z-connector signal and GND pin on the Ribbon cable breakout adapter.. It prevent the
>
> EL357N pin4(Collector) to fix LOW.
>
> ### How to install the jumper cap: Remove the inductive proximity sensor from the Ribbon cable breakout adapter for CR-10S PRO and
>
> install the jumper cap as like the picture. This operation requires caution.
>
> ※ Never install the Jumper cap between the Z-connector 24V pin and the GND pin on the Ribbon cable breakout adapter.
>
> ### CR-10S Pro Wiring:
>
> See Schematic. Using the 5V Logic Mode without the jumper cap installation may break BLTouch or EL357N.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I've been through the same sort of issues and eventually found that it was attributed by the cable and connector. Re-check or re-wire the sensor, this helped me out.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Is it something like in this video? Extending/retracting when NOT probing works fine, but probing fails with the pin not correctly retracting?
Then the BLtouch is defective and it should be replaced. It is not a firmware issue.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Reviving old thread...
I have same problem on Ender-3 V2 and two BLTouch sensors. So far, Oscar's idea of screwing in the T10 Torx screw on the BLTouch seems to be working. When the torx screw is screwed in you can see the tip of the probe being pushed out a bit. Evidently, there is a magnet in the BLTouch and there is some metal part on the probe that is attracted to the magnet. When the probe gets close enough to the magnet it snaps to the upper (stowed) position. The Torx screw adjusts the position of the magnet. By screwing the Torx in the magnet is closer to the probe and the probe snaps to the magnet sooner.
The BLTouch firmware can detect when the probe has been been snapped up by the magnet. Apparently, the firmware will only probe downward a limited amount. If the probe is not snapped to the magnet by the end of that travel the firmware will abort the probe. My guess is that from the factory the BLTouch is adjusted at the ragged edge of the firmware's detection travel. By screwing it in a bit it the probe stays within the firmware's travel limit.
Since I haven't disassembled either of my BLTouchs this is mostly speculative. Caveat emptor.
BTW, my printer is connected to Octoprint on Android tablet. Disconnecting the Octoprint and USB cable didn't help.
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling, bltouch
---
|
thread-14031
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14031
|
Marlin keeps restarting when I push the LCD controller button
|
2020-07-07T09:59:21.213
|
# Question
Title: Marlin keeps restarting when I push the LCD controller button
I am new here and also new for the 3D printers world. I have built a 3D printer myself. Everything seems okay, but, when I install Marlin firmware I can't use the printer.
While my printer is connected to my power supply (12 V; 30 A) and when I push the button on the screen for selecting the menu items, Marlin is restarting.
But, when I connect my computer with USB and power supply together, Its working fine
I am using RobotDyn Arduino Mega 2560, RobotDyn Graphic LCD controller, RobotDyn DRV8825
Any help will be highly appreciated.
# Answer
> 2 votes
If the trouble was just a short between 5 V and ground, the board probably would restart whenever you pushed the button, with all kind of power sources.
The fact that the Arduino restarts only when powered from RAMPS makes me wonder another cause for this problem.
It's well known that most of Arduino clones don't have a good voltage regulator onboard. This causes trouble when you power Arduino from RAMPS, because RAMPS sends 12 V to Arduino through Arduino's Vin pin, and this 12 V goes to Arduino's voltage regulator, which should reduce it to the 5 V used by ATMega MCU.
The question is, probably the Arduino's onboard voltage is running almost at its capacity and, when you press the button, the extra processing load or the redrawing of the display makes Arduino reset.
The solution would be disconnect diode D1 in RAMPS, and power Arduino from USB, or feeding 5V directly to Arduino's 5 V pin (not Vin).
A third option (more complex) would be feed about 7 V to Arduino barrel power-connector. This lower voltage would reduce the task of Arduino's onboard regulator. My 3D-printer uses an Arduino clone, but, as I discovered about this problem before building it, I've never powered it from RAMPS. I dessoldered D1 on RAMPS and, since the first day, Arduino was powered from USB, or from a DC-DC buck converter that reduces 12 V to 7.2 V.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You are right! This thread help me solve a 1 year old problem. I had to buy a new LCD(different model) because I had the same problem. Every time I press down the controller button the system resets. Your clue about it having something to do with the speaker helped solve this mystery.
I had to comment out #define SPEAKER and it is now working.
This is a strange bug that only occurs with a the SKR-E3mini V2 and the most basic 12864 LCD AND Marlin 2.1.1. I have 2 printers so I can pretty much confirm in my case it only occurs in this particular configuration.
---
Tags: marlin, diy-3d-printer, reprap, arduino-mega-2650
---
|
thread-20435
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20435
|
My prints have started to turn to mush at a certain Z height
|
2023-01-07T22:57:19.543
|
# Question
Title: My prints have started to turn to mush at a certain Z height
I just got an Ender 3 Pro for Christmas and, aside from firmware, I have made no changes to it whatsoever. Until yesterday, my printer was running all prints flawlessly. The only thing that changed was the filament, but I don't think that's the issue because the problem only starts to occur at a certain Z height.
What I've ensured:
* The firmware is up to date
* The filament is dry the X, Y, and Z axis all have no bumps or obstructions (lead screws and belts are fine; wheels and bolts all good, etc.)
* I have the right temperature (200 °C as printed on my PLA filament's label)
* The filament is not tangled
* There is no nozzle jam
* I have retraction enabled properly in my Ultimaker Cura settings
* The file is not corrupt (I've remade it, re-installed Ultimaker Cura, reformatted my SD card, etc.)
* The extruder is not slipping or chewing into the filament
* My bed is leveled
What I've noticed aside from the crappy prints:
* There's an intermittent "thump" sound coming from the extruder, that as far as I can tell, is caused by the wheels "snapping back" suddenly sometimes.
* The filament seems to be from a cheap Chinese brand: Sunlu.
Images of a good print and a bad print. These are the same version of the same G-code file printed at the same settings on the same printer in the same conditions. (EDIT: I removed the good print images because of a logo they contained that I am trying to limit public exposure to.)
# Answer
> 1 votes
The thump and the appearance of the print are indications of underextrusion. Tracking the source of this failure can be challenging, especially considering how many factors you've included in your question.
Consider to create a model of smaller or larger diameter than the existing troublesome object. Adjust the height of the model in inverse proportion to the diameter change, that is, if the diameter is smaller, increase the height.
For example, if the problem is heat creep in the nozzle, it can appear at a specific duration of the print. By decreasing the diameter of the object, the failure point should appear at a higher level, more or less confirming that time is a factor, pointing to heat creep.
Consider also to download and print a suitably configured temperature tower. This will allow you to reference the time factor again, but also allow you to expand the range of printing temperatures you can use for that specific color and manufacturer of filament.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-failure, stringing
---
|
thread-20425
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20425
|
How can I test if my model can be 3D printed without having a printer?
|
2023-01-06T04:55:10.233
|
# Question
Title: How can I test if my model can be 3D printed without having a printer?
This would be my first ever 3D printing I previously worked in Sketchup to generate simple objects, mostly floor plans and various small objects mostly for visualizing and designing things.
I am now trying to print a dust collector (hose) adapter that would connect my vacuum to my table saw guard. I have the model already (looks like below), I have managed to get quotes from 3D printing service providers so apparently everything looks OK
I still have doubts regarding the stability of the object during the 3D printing. How can I verify if everything is OK in that respect? I plan to print at our local public library which offers free printing (you pay the materials)
Here is my model, the OD at the base is 64.3 mm (2 17/32", the height is 288.1 mm):
Here is the link to the file.
If it matters the local public library branch has the following 3D printers which I can use:
* The LulzBot TAZ,
* The Maker Bot Replicator 2
* The Ultimaker 2 Plus
# Answer
> 3 votes
SketchUp is known to create models which fail in the slicer or during the print. It's a good idea to use a resource to check for flaws/errors in the model. These errors can be quite varied. All3DP has a somewhat misleading presentation purporting to provide resources to repair damaged models, but the linked page merely describes those factors which are to be considered when examining a model. This particular link is included for completeness.
Non-manifold builds, intersecting faces, non-intersecting faces (holes) and others are listed in the linked article and are to be avoided/repaired prior to printing.
Some slicers will identify and auto-repair a model if the "damage" is not too severe.
Windows 10 and up includes 3DBuilder, which will also identify flawed models and attempt to repair them. Despite being bundled with Windows 10, it is a capable program for checking a build.
Meshmixer (windows) also has Analysis, Inspector to identify problem areas, and also to repair them. For your model, Meshmixer does not identify any failure points, making a repair unwarranted.
An online repair resource from NanoDLP exists but does not display any information, merely repairs the model and makes the repair STL file available for download. There may be others of value online, use search terms "online 3D model repair."
If you can identify the slicer used by the library, it's possible/likely that it is a free download. PrusaSlicer, for example, will provide notification when a suspect model is loaded and will auto-repair. As noted above, your model does not have flaws; loading the model will provide other resources such as slicing and g-code preview as requested in your question. Other slicers are available for free download as well, including Cura, as referenced in the video.
The overhang mentioned by @FarO is a valid concern and the video provides a useful solution to the possibility of drooping during the print.
Angus of Maker's Muse on YouTube has a couple of videos covering design considerations to reduce or eliminate the need for supports, a version of the video linked by @FarO:
It's similar in respect to adding material to the model, creating a change from overhang to bridging.
I've had to print a counter-bore with the major diameter on the build plate. This created an unsupported bottom of the counter-bore "floating" above the plate. To fill this area with supports via the slicer would have been detrimental to the print quality and possibly resulted in impossible to remove supports.
The Angus' method served well in that I created a cylinder 0.4 mm larger in diameter than the minor diameter of the hole, placed directly in the center. This cylinder created a bridge from the major diameter, with an overlap of one nozzle width, which was easily snapped clear. One could have even less of an overlap by using 0.2 mm delta.
In the case of your vacuum nozzle, the overhang could be changed from the method presented in the video to a few gussets perpendicular to the surface under the overhang. This would "bookend" the overhang, creating bridging of the shelf, rather than drooping.
This image above is a hastily thrown-together example of the suggested option. The difference between the left and right support panel is the result of sloppy and hasty creation on my part, not a reflection of the model construction.
**Addressing the question** in the comments regarding print time, multiple factors are to be considered. Print speed for the specific filament type is the first. PLA can tolerate relatively high speeds compared to other filaments, especially flexible types. Layer height is also a consideration. A model printed at 0.300 mm layer height will print more quickly than one printed at a common 0.150 mm or 0.200 mm height. Layer lines will be much more visible on non-vertical faces when printed at 0.300 millimeter layer height, but for a utilitarian purpose such as yours, that's insignificant, in my opinion.
The slicer program selected will also be a factor. At 0.300 mm height, one of my slicers presents a 7 hour 22 minute result, while another suggests 8 hours 32 minutes. As both are in excess of your allowed time, you'll have to improvise.
One option, based on the duration limitations, would be to segment the model in a manner to allow easy assembly after printing, then glue the segments in place. Super-glue-type adhesives are prone to becoming brittle and fail, while solvent types are more likely to create a better bond. A popular adhesive, from my experience as well, is E6000.
If you split this model, use a horizontal plane cut to maintain the vertical orientation. It will provide the fastest printing. You can also create the plane cut at the overhang area, removing the need for manipulating support structures.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The shape seems very easily printable.
The only part which will need supports is the bottom side of the rectangular connection port, in the figure just right to the quote "11 21/32". That part, if it doesn't need to be connected to anything else or doesn't need to be exactly horizontal, can be modified to be slightly slanted, see video below with the issue and solution.
Remeber that the height of the ramp depends on the depth of the overhang part. In the video the ratio is about 0.4 mm ramp height per 2.5 mm unsupported overhang. I would change it to be safer, 0.4 mm per 2.0 mm overhang, so (no less than!) 1 to 5. If your square connector is 5 mm deep (I mean measuring on the outer side of the opening, you get it), use a ramp 1 mm tall or more. The angle will be 11 degrees from horizontal.
Printers may struggle when the angle from horizontal is less than 20, but it's worth a try... or simply make it a bit taller, 0.4 mm per 1.5 mm overhang.
Once printed, file the ramp out so it becomes horizontal again. Try to use ABS if you can, it does better overhangs than PETG. PLA may work too but it's quite brittle if you hit it.
# Answer
> 1 votes
> How can I test if my model can be 3D printed without having a printer?
Find out what printer is used and slice the print yourself using free tools like PrusaSlicer, Slic3r, Ultimaker Cura, etc..
From the mentioned printers, none of these allows for the tube to be printed upright, the TAZ has the largest height of 285 mm (depending on the exact version they have), your object is 288 mm...
e.g. One of my printer cannot take the object upright:
This means that you are left to two options, cut the object into two pieces and design a coupling between the two pieces, or you need to modify the orientation of the object.
Do note that orientation of the print on the plate can do a lot to print object that sometimes do not appear to fit on the plate or in the volume.
E.g., you could print the tube other than upright, see below (it fits my 200x300 mm printer):
This is sliced with support, but, a smaller scaled version printed fine without support. The larger version and the shallow incline of the tube need support for the full size print.
Scaled version of the tube printed without supports:
I think the best solution is to break up the part into two pieces and design an appropriate coupling. This would give you 2 parts, but the printing time and the amount of support will be minimum. The less time and the less support the higher the chance the parts print in one go without failing. It is also best to print the two parts after each other, else you will have the nozzle to retract (takes time) in between the two parts if printed together.
---
Tags: support-structures, part-testing
---
|
thread-20419
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20419
|
Is there a conventional scale for 3D printing models?
|
2023-01-05T18:46:10.763
|
# Question
Title: Is there a conventional scale for 3D printing models?
Is there a convention for the scale of the 3D printing STL files that are shared online and/or expected by 3-D printers?
I found a model on Thingiverse that is useful for my project, a connector that must fit with other parts, so precision is important. Eyeballing, it seems that each STL unit corresponds to 1 millimeter, is this a safe/conventional assumption?
# Answer
The STL File format is unitless, It only contains relative positions for the vertices of the mesh which makes up the part. As such, there is no true "standard." However, most 3D printing focused slicers will import STL files on the millimeter scale.
The vast majority of STL files you find online *will* be in **mm** units, however, It's important to note that such is not always the case.
Typically however, a file imported in the wrong unit will be *very* obvious, and unless the model author has done something very unusual, scaling should be trivial within your slicer software of choice.
> 3 votes
# Answer
STL files are based on coordinates rather than individual units of measurement as they're supposed to be completely unit agnostic in order to allow them to be evenly scaled on any platform, and to not be bogged down with unit translations.
Typically, the units are set by whoever makes the model, and by whatever the default of the software that they use is. In most cases, creators use a one-to-one scale.
So, the answer to your question is that the conventional scale is "100%". Though probably isn't the answer that you're looking for.
If you print it at 100% it will be whatever size the creator intended it to be. For example, if you were printing a Warhammer miniature and it has a base attached to it, and you print it at 100% then that base will be 25mm wide, and the figure will be the exact height that the creator intended it to be. Whatever that height is.
For the purpose of your question, if the part "looks" like it was created in MM then it almost certainly was.
If you take that STL file and put it into your slicer, then use the default scale (100%), you can use the slicer to determine how its width or height or length in MM. Just set the scale of the model to whatever makes that dimension the same as the dimension you need it to be and the rest of the model will be scaled accordingly.
Your biggest problem might actually be the material that you use, as some will shrink after printing, or shrink unevenly.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, stl
---
|
thread-20444
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20444
|
Y-Stepper motor pulley skips the belt
|
2023-01-09T22:18:13.170
|
# Question
Title: Y-Stepper motor pulley skips the belt
I haven't used my Creality Ender 3 S1 in a week. But I started it now. During **auto leveling** and **auto-home** the stepper motor for the build-plate (Y axis?) goes over the limit and a unhealthy sound is heard (the stepper pulley skips the belt).
All worked well last time I used the printer. I have tried to "Disable motors" and manually moved the plate, but it did not fell in "alignment", so the noise will come e.g. with "auto-home" again.
Is there a way I can reset this or may something be broken?
---
I did "Control -\> Reset Configuration" and tried to use "auto-home" again, but the same problem occurred. I also tried to tighten the belt for the motor that moves the build-plate, but it did not help.
It sounds like something is broken. In some way, it sounds like the stepper motor has the "wrong position", if that can happen. Perhaps there are some "encoder" that is broken?
Any suggestions on how to move on from here?
---
To reproduce my problem:
1. I disable the stepper motors.
2. Move the build-plate as close to the motor as possible.
3. I do "Control -\> Reset Configuration" to reset the printer.
4. I do "auto-home". The end result of this is that the build-plate is centralized and the "level-pin" on the nozzle is in the center of the build plate.
5. When I do "auto-level" now, it eventually tries to move the build-plate too far away from the motor, so the pulley skips the belt and noise is heard.
---
**Auto home**
When looking at this video of Creality Ender 3 S1 doing auto home, it **moves the build-plate as close to the motor as possible**, before moving the build-plate to home. This does **hot** happen on mine.
Instead, if I first put the build-plate in the center, then start the **auto home**. It never moves the build-plate as close to the motor as possible, it only moves the build-plate away and finally the motor pulley skips the belt.
# Answer
> 1 votes
When a stepper keeps on spinning and skipping the belt, it usually indicates that there is something wrong with the end stop. If it is not pressed, the stepper will rotate the length of the bed usually making the pulley skip the belt.
Please check your Y-end stop, you find it in the image below left of the stepper (you see the cable of the endstop, just above where the sticker is being pulled off).
You could try and press this switch the moment you auto home to see if it works. If it works, make sure the carriage hits the switch.
---
The *updated question* explains that the bed moves in **opposite direction** when homing, if so, this hints to a defective end stop switch or cable (or unconnected). When the end stop is defective the firmware (when properly configured and proper switch state routing is used) the printer assumes the end stop is triggered and moves away from the end stop.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, motor
---
|
thread-20441
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20441
|
New Ender 3 v2: the printer backs the filament completely out of the extruder
|
2023-01-09T04:46:46.013
|
# Question
Title: New Ender 3 v2: the printer backs the filament completely out of the extruder
I just bought a new Ender 3v2 from MicroCenter. When I attempt to start a print, the printer backs the filament completely out of the extruder, up the feeding tube and out of the machine. I'm running PLA+ in it. The first time, the nozzle was blocked, but it is still doing it and the nozzle is not obstructed in any way.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Thank you everyone for the suggestions.. I took it apart and reassembled it (my 12 year old originally built it, he’s usually good at these things) we found that the wires were reversed (at least according to him). It’s printing great now
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-20429
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20429
|
How to add magnets to 3D print mid-print?
|
2023-01-06T21:44:26.463
|
# Question
Title: How to add magnets to 3D print mid-print?
I would like to add neodymium magnets during print. The model, which I would like to print, has fully enclosed holes made for placing magnets.
I added pause on layer (`M601`) in slicer. Since, this is a very long print, I would like to avoid any problems. I read that the magnet can attach to the nozzle while printing. How can I avoid this, and what else should I watch out for? How should I prepare in advance for magnets placing?
# Answer
I'll share some experience, I got while printing with magnets:
1. Firstly, check if the magnet can stick to something around the hotend, especially when using neodymium magnets. It may be necessary to replace the nozzle with a non-magnetic one.
2. Apply a small amount of glue before placing the magnets. The magnet should be free of metal filings that may stick to the magnet, because the glue will not stick to the magnet properly. In this situation, the magnet will not stick to the print and may frivolously move around in the hole.
I used a small amount of hot glue on the bottom and top of the magnet, completely surrounding it in the hole. Hot glue should be used carefully as it can deform the plastic surrounding it.
3. **Check magnets pole orientation**. This one is important, if you want to use magnets in pairs, e.g. for parts that should connect and disconnect. Magnets should either attract or repel each other, depending on the application. Before placing the magnets, check that they are correctly positioned. You can also mark the poles first with a marker.
4. Make sure the magnet fits in the hole. For this purpose, you can make a quick test print and check if the magnet fits correctly into the hole. This will save potential drilling in the printout and other unwanted problems.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Unless you are using a nozzle made of magnetic metal, the magnet will not attach to the nozzle. The heater blocks are usually aluminum, the nozzles are brass or copper, although some can be steel. Other portions of your extruder assembly could be a factor but I've not seen examples.
Pass the magnet under the nozzle area close enough to touch the nozzle. This will provide indication of which portions of the assembly might attract the magnet.
Consider to apply some super-glue-type adhesive and allowing sufficient time to cure (or use a thin layer of moisture on the magnet, or an accelerator) to provide additional security. Even a small segment of double-stick tape may provide the level of assurance you require.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I've certainly had this happen. While it didn't attach directly to the head, it attached to the steel roller bearings that moved the head, as well as the BL touch probe!
The type of magnet matters as well. If you're just using a regular steel or ceramic magnet, you probably won't have a problem since they usually aren't strong enough to lift themselves the inch or two required. But if you're using a neodymium magnet, then those certainly are.
I've done three things to solve it:
* Learned the tolerance of my machine so I know how large of an opening to make for the magnet so it ends up being a bit of a press fit (when designing my own stuff). It doesn't take much to offer just a little bit of resistance to prevent the magnet from lifting.
* When printing multiple items at once (made some refrigerator magnets), I arranged them so the print head travel properly and not cross over the magnets of the other items
* Used a glue stick to glue them in. I was a bit surprised this worked, but it was just sticky enough to solve the problem.
One of the best first prints I ever did was to create a cylinder, say 1" in diameter, with a hole in it (1/2" in diameter), then create the corresponding "pin" exactly 0.500". Then I'd create multiple cylinders with holes of varying tolerances, say 0.490, 0.495, 0.500, 0.505, 0.510.
Then I could compare the fit between the two items. Essentially if I needed to put a magnet into something, there's no way I can do a 0.500" hole. It's too tight. I've learned that with my printer, that if I oversize a hole by 0.01" *diameter*, then it's a nice fit with a little bit of resistance. Well worth taking a few minutes to do this.
> 6 votes
# Answer
You want the magnets to fit snugly in the holes for them so they can't jump out. Making the hole undersized is not a good way to achieve this, because forcibly inserting the magnet can then break or deform the partial part.
Instead, I like adding one or more very thin splines, like the ones Lego bricks have to interface with and grip the studs of another piece, in a slightly oversized hole. These splines can wedge against the magnet and deflect without deforming the rest of the part.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models
---
|
thread-20448
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20448
|
Why do we change E-steps based on the hotend?
|
2023-01-10T23:00:54.433
|
# Question
Title: Why do we change E-steps based on the hotend?
I know why and can understand the logic of changing E-steps for a new extruder- obviously it is related to the number of turns of the stepper.
What I don't understand is how the hotend could alter the E-steps so drastically.
For example in Marlin the default e-steps for the stock MK8 hotend on a Creality printer is 93 (which is always too low IME) but then if you have a MicroSwiss it sets the E-steps to 137.6
How does simply changing of the hotend (keeping the same nozzle diameter) require such a high increase in the E-steps? Can someone explain the physics of it?
Edit:
This is what I was referring to:
Based on your advice I did some further searching and found that Microswiss makes an extruder as well. I initially assumed that it was referring to the hotend, since the most popular all-metal replacement hotend for the Ender line is the Microswiss, since it is a direct drop-in and requires no additional mount hardware.
If it is the Microswiss extruder that they are referring to- I find that odd that they would include only that one since there are perhaps a dozen popular extruder options for the Ender line and they don't list firmware e-step options for any of them.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Actually we don't.
Under the assumption that the same extruder is used, the hot end doesn't matter. The question is unclear about the reuse of the same extruder. If there are different hot ends that have the extruder incorporated into the hot end design, the gearing solution used for these different extruders explain why the E-steps per mm are different. But, if the same (Bowden) extruder is used, you don't need to change the E-steps.
To explain, the E-steps per mm is a property that belongs to the extruder, not the hot end. The E-steps per mm expresses how many steps need to be send to the extruder stepper to extrude a mm of filament. This filament is pushed while it is 1.75 mm or 2.85 mm. For this reason the nozzle diameter doesn't have a part in the equation either; the slicer will calculate the amount of length to extrude a volume is needed, the firmware recalculates this extrusion length (or volume if the filament area is taken into account) and expresses this with the E-steps per mm into an amount of steps for the stepper.
You can calibrate your extruder by disconnecting the hot end or unmounting the nozzle (and telling the firmware to extrude at low temperature using G-code M302; you just need to make sure when 100 mm extrusion is requested, 100 mm is spit out. Any deviations from that can be fixed with the extrusion multiplier.
In the early days, when extruders didn't use dual gear filament gear solutions (which many these days do now), the filament was pushed by a single gear and used a counter bearing that pressed onto the filament with a spring like mechanism. What frequently happened with the cheaper extruder solutions is that friction in the path up to the nozzle caused some slip, so it may look like more steps per mm were needed, but in fact this was just an extruder issue.
Also beware of soft filament and pressure on the filament. See e.g. the following image of 2 different (blue and red) filament types or pressures on the filament sketched in the same image:
This image shows 2 types of filament or pressures on the filament. You see that the softer filament (red) or more pressed on (resulting in the gear teeth digging deeper into the filament), has an effective radius of R2 while the harder (blue) or less pressed on has an effective diameter of R1. R2 is smaller than R1, so for the same amount of steps per mm less filament is extruded (if the gear makes one turn, the extrusion difference is $ E\_{diff}= 2\times\pi\times(R\_1-R\_2)$. Such effects should preferably be adjusted with the extrusion modifier in the slicer.
---
Tags: extruder, hotend
---
|
thread-3514
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3514
|
3D printer extruding too thick
|
2017-02-02T17:14:01.587
|
# Question
Title: 3D printer extruding too thick
Last night there was an error in printing that caused the printer to stop printing, but kept the hotend on. This morning I discovered that it had fused to what it was printing after remaining on all night - it took some time to remove.
Prints afterwards showed signs of under extrusion. Now when I tell it to extrude a millimeter, it no longer extrudes a thin strand, but instead exactly a millimeter of filament comes out the same diameter as it went in. Cleaning the hotend has done nothing, cleaning the extruder has done nothing.
I'm left with two conclusions, either:
* this is what is supposed to happen, it was broken the whole time, I had calibrated it for the broken setting and just need to recalibrate everything, or;
* something, most likely the nozzle, is broken.
# Answer
When you have a disaster print like this you almost always get carbon in the hot end. I have micro hand drills (0.2 mm) that I carefully use on the tip of the nozzle. There are also atomic pulls where you add plastic, heat it up till it extrudes then let it cool. Once cooled to 70°C pull hard. Repeat until pulls show no black. Or, if your nozzles are cheap just replace them.
Note next time this happens, turn the hot end on so you can remove it quickly. Sounds like you chipped away.
> 2 votes
# Answer
It also can simply be the PLA. I have had PLA that runs thick no matter what setting I use. I know it's the PLA because when I replace it then it goes back to normal. I have tried temp ranges from 200-220 °C; all with the same results. I even dried the PLA for 9 hours and still did it.
Sometimes the PLA just sucks aka a bad batch.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: extruder, extrusion
---
|
thread-19607
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19607
|
Marlin: How to print to terminal to debug?
|
2022-06-29T05:42:36.103
|
# Question
Title: Marlin: How to print to terminal to debug?
I am looking for the equivalent of `System.out.println()` or `Console.WriteLine()`, but using `M118`.
For example, every time a particular variable changes its value I want to send a message to the terminal in OctoPrint as if it were sent by `M118`.
These commands would be hardcoded into the firmware files before compiling/flashing.
Since `M118.cpp` is only designed to parse a string given by the user I am not quite clear how to co-opt it for this use.
Any help would be appreciated!
# Answer
> 1 votes
Do you have the option to edit the source code or is recompilation not an option for you? I'd just edit the `M118` function to print your variable when a specific text is given. You could have it print different variables per text that is supplied.
A more fancy way would be to copy and alter the `M118` to an unused function (above 1000 seems unused) to match your needs.
---
Tags: marlin
---
|
thread-20455
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20455
|
Ender 3 Max Neo Table Size
|
2023-01-13T04:53:24.473
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 Max Neo Table Size
I'm seriously considering purchasing an Ender 3 Max Neo, but I'm unsure if I'll be able to fit it on my desk (i.e. I'm not sure if my desk is deep enough)
The specs report the machine dimensions as being 516 mm x 582 mm x 590 mm. When I look at pictures of the unit it appears the rod for the Y rail protrudes past the front of the main unit, so I'm hoping I can get away with a table that is less than 582 mm deep.
Does anyone know how deep a table I will need to support this unit, assuming the table is hard up against a wall?
# Answer
It is hard to find some measurements on the Ender 3 Max Neo to help you out, but, with the help of question How to calculate linear Y rod length for a larger replacement bed? and some videos on the Ender 3 Max Neo we should be able to come up with the space needed in the back and front.
The Y-axis carriage has 6 V-slot rollers running on a 4040 aluminum extrusion profile:
When you know the pitch between the rollers (you need the distance between the first and the last roller) and the diameter of the wheels, you will be able to calculate the overhang of heated bed. Since I have no access to this printer I cannot measure this, but we can make some engineering "guestimations".
From the image above you can deduce that about one third of the bed "overhangs" (beware of the perspective!).
Similarly, you can calculate the length of the Y-axis tensioner to be about 55 mm extending in front of the 4040 extrusion; this implies the bed extends about 80 mm in front of the tensioner.
The back has a NEMA 17 stepper of 42 mm, so an overhang of 90 mm.
This implies that the table should at least be 582 mm + 80 mm + 90 mm = 752 mm deep to fit the bed within the table dimension. At the back you need some space for the bed to reach the home position (when the table has a wall behind it), but you can have the printer extending the bed at the front over the table.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-20463
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20463
|
Z-Offset Multiple Heads on Tool Change
|
2023-01-16T15:25:07.870
|
# Question
Title: Z-Offset Multiple Heads on Tool Change
I have created my own tool changer for my 3D Printer but I'm having an issue with the Z-offset for each head.
* **Firmware:** Marlin 2.1
* **Slicer:** Cura
I have used the offset wizard to get the Z-offset of each head from the bed and then I tried to use the following G-code (`M851 Z-4.3`) in the Extruder Start G-Code and I have done this for each head, I can see it has changed on the screen in the configuration menu but it looks like it has had no effect as the print has already started.
What is the best way for me to set each offset for all my extruders?
# Answer
> 2 votes
There is a specific code to set the offset between the various tools. This G-code is called `M218` \- Set Hotend Offset.
---
Tags: marlin, ultimaker-cura, extruder, z-probe
---
|
thread-18833
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18833
|
Ultra thin skin of cured resin found floating in vat, possible sources?
|
2022-01-31T12:41:22.297
|
# Question
Title: Ultra thin skin of cured resin found floating in vat, possible sources?
I've been repeatedly finding small fragments of extremely thin cured resin floating in the vat of my elegoo saturn resin printer.
They're maybe a couple of CM across and so thin that I can't measure them. Thinner than the thinnest Suran wrap by at least half. They're very delicate and flexible so they haven't caused any damage, but I don't know where they are coming from.
I've cleaned my vat between each print, and used new resin, but it's happened 3 time now so it looks like it's being generated when I do a print run rather than coming from an old bottle.
Is this a known issue?
**EDIT**
This seems to be forming on or around the skate that supports the model, and probably only during the forming of the bottom layers. Large skates seem to form thicker chunkier "bits" while small skates form thin skins.
Is it possible that this is some kind of light spill during the bottom layer only?
The rest of my models seem to come out perfectly, so whatever is happening does not seem to be happening on every single layer.
I ran my printer for about 10-15 layers without a vat in place, and couldn't see anything unusual with the naked eye.
# Answer
If your prints are coming out OK and you do not see obvious failures, then it's most likely that your screen started leaking light. In general, LCD screens does not fully block UV light and some does get through even through "dark" pixels. With time it gets worse and more and more light is able to get through the screen. At some point, that parasitic light becomes enough to cure some resin over a longer printing time. And this is what you are seeing. The only solution to this is to replace your LCD screen with a new one.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Thats not good.
I've been having the same issues and my Photon Mono X is only 6 prints in from being new. I was chalking it up to the newb way I was cleaning my FEP and the scratches that are letting light spread everywhere. I am changing my FEP today to see if that fixes the issue.
> -1 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, fdm, resin
---
|
thread-20472
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20472
|
Why does Prusaslicer set the final temperature in two steps?
|
2023-01-18T10:01:15.700
|
# Question
Title: Why does Prusaslicer set the final temperature in two steps?
I'm using PrusaSlicer 2.5.0 and printing the sliced G-code on a Creality CR-6 SE via a USB-connected OctoPrint/OctoPi. As you can see, the slicer sets the temperature by G-code commands in two steps (final temperature is 205 °C). This seems strange to me, as the printer can go directly to the final temperature. Also, this screenshot shows the case where I'm switching filament, therefore I have to heat up the extruder and when I start printing, the hotend cools for some time, because the target temperature is way lower set by PrusaSlicer.
Is there a setting for configuring this in PrusaSlicer? These are the first few lines in the G-code file:
```
; generated by PrusaSlicer 2.5.0+win64 on 2023-01-18 at 12:15:56 UTC
;
; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.42mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.44mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.44mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.44mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm
; support material extrusion width = 0.36mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.42mm
M201 X500 Y500 Z100 E5000 ; sets maximum accelerations, mm/sec^2
M203 X500 Y500 Z10 E60 ; sets maximum feedrates, mm / sec
M204 P500 R1000 T500 ; sets acceleration (P, T) and retract acceleration (R), mm/sec^2
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ; sets the jerk limits, mm/sec
M205 S0 T0 ; sets the minimum extruding and travel feed rate, mm/sec
M107
;TYPE:Custom
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M109 S180 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
M190 S70 ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
M140 S70 ; set final bed temp
G28 ; home all axis
G1 Z50 F240
G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000
M104 S230 ; set final nozzle temp
M109 S230 ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000
G92 E0
G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion
; Filament gcode
```
# Answer
> 7 votes
Since the bed usually takes longer to heat than the nozzle, the nozzle is in a pre-warmup stage so that it doesn't ooze filament waiting for the bed while homing and/or finding the Z limit.
Once the bed is warmed up and the Z limit is reached the nozzle heats up to the final temperature and the print starts.
If you go to the **Printer Settings** tab of Prusaslicer and click on **Custom G-Code**, you'll see the initial temp in the **Start G-Code** section. Mine even says:
```
M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
```
A temperature of 150 °C is low enough that the filament doesn't melt but close enough to the final temperature so that you're not waiting for a full heat cycle.
---
Tags: octoprint, prusaslicer, creality-cr-6
---
|
thread-20466
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20466
|
Major Y-axis skipping (Anycubic Kobra)
|
2023-01-17T08:25:03.470
|
# Question
Title: Major Y-axis skipping (Anycubic Kobra)
I have recently purchased an Anycubic Kobra, and the first two prints worked out fine. On the third print, the Y-axis belt snapped, so I contacted Anycubic support and they gave me a replacement one. I did a few test owl prints, but there was major Y-axis shifting on the prints.
After I replaced the belt, I made sure that they were as tight as possible, but there was some slack, but I couldn't tighten them further. There is only shifting in the Y-axis, but it mostly only shifts in one direction (towards front).
What other reasons would cause a Y-axis shift like this? Is this due to incorrect belt replacement, as there was no shifting prior to the belt snap?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I found a solution to this layer shifting. Even though the belt was too loose, I managed to use a rubber band to tighten the belt slightly. Now to prints go off without a hitch. Thanks for your help.
---
Tags: troubleshooting, layer-shifting
---
|
thread-19920
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19920
|
Resin forming thin layer on bottom of vat (sludgelike)
|
2022-09-13T22:09:57.693
|
# Question
Title: Resin forming thin layer on bottom of vat (sludgelike)
I have just bought the Anycubic Photon Mono X and I am having some trouble. I was wondering if anyone else ever had this issue.
The resin seems to be hardening on the bottom of the vat after I cleaned it and tried to do a print. This sometimes happens as well if I leave the resin in the vat overnight. I usually keep the temperature in the room around 70 F, I am not sure if that matters.
Here are my settings:
* Layer Height: 0.03 mm
* Bottom Layer Count: 6
* Exposure Time: 4 s
* Light-off Delay: 0.5 s
* Bottom Light-off Delay: 0.5 s
* Bottom Lift Distance: 8 mm
* Lifting Distance: 8 mm
* Bottom Lift Speed: 180 mm/min
* Lifting Speed: 180 mm/min
* Retract Speed: 240 mm/min
I don’t store the printer open. It’s not exposed to any UV from light or windows. I'm not sure about the resin settling on the ground as I shake it before every use
# Answer
this happens when you print and the resin does not adhere well to the lift platform. This way the print stays at the bottom. The first layer builds up between the FEP sheet (bottom of vat) and the build platform. If you are lucky, the connection to the build pltform is stronger than the FEP sheet. A couple of things affect the adhesion to both surfaces:
* FEP sheet tension (don't tension too tight, not too loose)
* FEP sheet cleanliness (lightly coat with silicon grease)
* build platform cleanliness (clean with alcohol)
* build platform height (should be exactly on the bottom of vat at home position)
* build platform alignment (should be exactly flat compared to bottom of vat)
* lift speed (lifting too fast with a big print can make the print come loose from the bed)
* cure time (curing the first layers too short can make the adhesion worse)
> 1 votes
---
Tags: resin, anycubic-photon
---
|
thread-20478
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20478
|
Targetting low thermal conducitivity with PLA
|
2023-01-20T11:50:43.620
|
# Question
Title: Targetting low thermal conducitivity with PLA
I'm working on a (currently only conceptual) design for a Peltier-cooled sample holder, and the cold side will need some insulation. It's likely to be a rather complex shape, so 3D printing it looks like a good plan. I can get parts made on a Ultimaker (not sure which model at the moment), normally in PLA.
I can look up the bulk thermal conductivity of PLA (it seems to be the best of the typical filaments already. I can find high-TC filaments. What I can't find is how to design an insulating part. In particular, while a reduced fill will reduce the TC, and the actual percentage might allow a decent approximation to the thermal conductivity in an isotropic structure, it's highly unlikely I'll have an isotropic structure. This means I don't know how well I can approximate the final TC as a percentage of the bulk The fill patterns I've seen (as a part designer, not a printer operator) would likely end up like cells running in the direction I want to avoid heat flow (perpendicular to the Peltier's heat-spreader plates). Knowing the TC, I could calculate the heat flow - I have some background in thermal physics.
Is there any kind of established best practice for designing thermally insulating parts? Any way to approximate the thermal conductivity?
# Answer
Coincidently, I am considering the same issue; I'm trying to design a 3D-printed Peltier refrigerator to maintain the "cold-chain" for drug distribution in low-resource settings.
I don't have the answers, but I did just come across this useful poster presentation on the same topic: Influence of 3D infill pattern on thermal transport, by Yu Han
It may provide some help.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: pla, infill, heat
---
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.