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thread-20810 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20810 | What is the difference between a Bowden extruder and a direct drive extruder? | 2023-04-10T09:41:49.927 | # Question
Title: What is the difference between a Bowden extruder and a direct drive extruder?
As these are the two most commonly used extruder systems in FDM printers, I would like to know what is the difference between them. What are the advantages and disadvantages of using each of them?
# Answer
> 17 votes
A Bowden extruder and a direct drive extruder are two different types of extruder systems used in FDM 3D printers. Both feed filament into the hotend, but differ in the way the filament is pushed into it. The main difference is the location of the extruder motor relative to the hotend, which results in some pros and cons in the usage of both of them.
---
## Bowden extruder
A Bowden extruder has the motor located remotely from the hotend, usually on the printer's frame. Filament is fed from the motor to the hotend through a Bowden tube. This setup is typically used in 3D printers that require high speeds and accelerations, as the reduced weight of the hotend allows for faster and more accurate movement.
The main advantage of a Bowden extruder is that it reduces the weight of the printhead. It can improve print speed and accuracy, especially for faster print speeds. It also reduces the amount of space required in the printhead, allowing for larger hotends or additional features to be added.
However, Bowden extruders can suffer from problems with filament control, such as oozing or stringing of the filament. The friction in the Bowden tube and distance between the extruder and the hotend causes the reaction time of each motor movement to be extended.
---
## Direct drive extruder
A direct drive extruder has the motor located directly above or beside the hotend, which eliminates the need for a Bowden tube. The Bowden tube is typically very short or totally absent. This setup is used in printers that require precise filament control and are capable of printing with a wide range of materials.
The main advantage of a direct drive extruder system is that it minimizes the distance between the extruder and the hotend. It allows for better control of the filament and reduces friction due to a shorter distance between the extruder and the hotend. This allows to use smaller values of retraction settings, which can reduce stringing and oozing. It results in better control of demanding filaments. Direct drive extruders can handle flexible and soft filaments more effectively.
However, the added weight of the extruder motor can result in slower printing speeds and reduced accuracy during high-speed printing. A heavier printhead can also cause artifacts and ringing on the surface of the prints.
---
In summary, Bowden extruders are better suited for high-speed printing and have a lower risk of filament contamination, while Direct Drive extruders are better suited for more precise printing and more demanding materials. The choice between these two systems ultimately depends on the specific requirements of the printer and the printing application. Costs also have to be taken into account, because direct drive extruders are relatively more expensive than Bowden extruders.
---
Tags: extruder, bowden, knowledgebase, direct-drive
--- |
thread-20815 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20815 | Is a 40x20 Noctua fan with a shroud good for part cooling? | 2023-04-10T20:06:02.577 | # Question
Title: Is a 40x20 Noctua fan with a shroud good for part cooling?
I am having a lot of troubles with running my Prusa Mk3S at my student dorm, because of the extremely loud stock part cooling fan - it annoys people A LOT). So I started working on a design using one or two Noctua 40x20 axial fans (2 to get more static pressure) as part cooling fans.
So I wanted to ask if it/they would provide sufficient cooling to replace the centrifugal fan currently on the extruder assembly. Does anyone have some experience on these kinds of builds?
# Answer
> 2 votes
This probably does not make sense.
Noctua fans are quiet because they're really low-flow, and aside from really high-power (and noisy!) models like 4028 server fans, axial fans in general are unsuitable for part cooling because they have essentially no static pressure, meaning you can't run them through narrowing ducts. If you can just mount them to blow directly where you need the air, without a duct compressing it at all, they might work, but this tends to lead to a bulky toolhead that collides with ends of the axis, reducing your build volume, or that's cantilevered in ways that subjects the whole toolhead to vibrations.
I would look for a quieter radial blower fan that meets your needs. Note that the high quality dual-ball-bearing fans are generally a lot noisier than the garbage sleeve-bearing ones; the advantage is that the bearings don't wear out after a year or so. But if your goal is minimizing noise, you might do best to just buy new sleeve-bearing fans when they wear out. Knowing Prusa, they probably put the high quality fans on there, which would be why they make more noise.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, cooling, print-fan
--- |
thread-20804 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20804 | Can any slicers adjust the layer height based on which layer is being printed? (FDM) | 2023-04-08T19:50:33.387 | # Question
Title: Can any slicers adjust the layer height based on which layer is being printed? (FDM)
Hypothetically, if one has a print consisting of very simple shapes at some z-heights but very complicated shapes at other z-heights, it seems like it might be a good idea to run the overall mesh with different layer heights at different parts of the print.
Is there a common way to convince slicers to do this in general?
(Specifically is there any way to make Cura do this?)
# Answer
**Adaptive Layers** should be the function you are looking for.
It allows the slicer to change the layer height dynamically throughout the print, based on the complexity of the geometry being printed. This can lead to improved print quality in areas where high detail is required, while still maintaining print speed in areas where less detail is needed.
PrusaSlicer's equivalent is **Variable layer height**.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Slic3r has an "Adaptive Quality" setting. The roll-over tool tip says, "Automatically determine layer heights by the objects topology instead of using the static value..."
I used it to print a bushing, oriented vertically, with large chamfers on ID and OD. I set layer height to 0.3 mm and turned on Adaptive Quality. Adaptive Quality includes a Quality parameter that I left at the default of 75%. It printed the layers at the chamfers at 0.16 and 0.17 mm and the rest at 0.3 mm layer heights.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, layer-height
--- |
thread-20818 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20818 | Print output missing sides | 2023-04-12T09:05:18.153 | # Question
Title: Print output missing sides
I tried to print my first object, which is the calibration cube downloaded from here, XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube.
However, the output has a visible infill on all sides:
I think this is because some settings are not correct in the slicer.
I am using:
* Printer: Ender 3
* Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 5.3.0
# Answer
> 2 votes
It looks like perimeters and solid layers are not set in the Slicer. Make sure that these settings are greater than zero:
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, troubleshooting, slicing, infill
--- |
thread-20821 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20821 | Extra external layer (shell) on my first prints | 2023-04-12T16:56:04.757 | # Question
Title: Extra external layer (shell) on my first prints
I got my first 3D printer this week, a Creality Ender 3.
Tried to print a few small samples to test it, but every shape I printed had an extra external layer. Please, check these images:
I used Freecad to draw the objects, and Slic3r to convert them to G-code.
Am I doing something wrong? Is my printer not a good one?
Any comment will be very helpful.
# Answer
> 4 votes
If you do some quick calculations it appears that this is caused by under-extrusion.
Comparing the extruded volume to the calculated volume for the deposition there is a mismatch of about 2.6. This hints to the use of an incorrect diameter for the filament $\frac{2.85^2}{1.75^2}=2.65$.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, underextrusion
--- |
thread-20681 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20681 | Illegal G-code when trying to print | 2023-03-13T18:58:15.983 | # Question
Title: Illegal G-code when trying to print
I recently upgraded to Simplify3D version 5. With this version, I can now print over WiFi to my Qidi X-Pro. I run an Eero mesh network and the printer is about 6 feet from the router.
I tried printing a model with this version over WiFi and received the following error on the Qidi console:
```
Illegal gcode in line: xxxx, P_4, T_10470103!
```
On a second attempt, I received:
```
Illegal gcode in line xxxx, P_$, T10470000!
```
The same models print correctly if saved to a USB stick first and then inserted into the printer. I've been in contact with Simplify3d support, but, they can't recreate the problem.
Has anyone encountered this problem? Do you know of a fix?
# Answer
I ran another test. This time I used the USB device that came with the printer. The print finished without errors. I'm not sure why using a different USB device would impact the WiFi printing.
Note: I have some suspicions that using a quality setting of High may have actually caused the problem.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: g-code, simplify3d, wi-fi
--- |
thread-20830 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20830 | What is the Fade Height option in Marlin? | 2023-04-14T20:47:05.893 | # Question
Title: What is the Fade Height option in Marlin?
Going through the printer options, I came across the **`Fade Height`** option under `Bed Leveling` section.
What is it and what is its use in Marlin firmware?
# Answer
> 6 votes
**Fade Height** is used to specify the height above the bed at which the printer should stop fading the bed leveling correction. Bed leveling is gradually decreasing with each successive layer until fade height is reached. From this height, bed leveling compensation becomes turned off.
For example, if the bed is slightly warped or uneven, the printer may need to compensate by lowering the nozzle at the center of the bed but less so near the edges of the bed. By setting Fade height, the printer will gradually decrease the correction as it moves away from the center of the bed, resulting in more accurate print.
---
According to Marlin docs:
> With Fade height enabled, bed leveling correction is gradually reduced as the nozzle gets closer to the Fade height. Above the Fade height no bed leveling compensation is applied at all, so movement is machine true.
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling
--- |
thread-19400 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19400 | Where can I change the nozzle diameter in Cura? Why is mine missing? | 2022-05-19T02:46:02.567 | # Question
Title: Where can I change the nozzle diameter in Cura? Why is mine missing?
I just upgraded the nozzle (to 1 mm) on an Ender 3v2 and want to make a test print. I added a new printer for the new nozzle size.... and can't find a setting for it. Some screenshots on the internet show a nozzle diameter setting in the machine settings, but I do not have that. (**Manage printers** \> **Printers** \> **Machine Settings** \> **Extruder 1**). Obviously, this was the first place I looked, and I also looked in the sidebar several times.
I have Cura 4.11.0 and am using the Ender 3 profile.
I've seen arguments about it's no longer a valid setting because line width is more important, I've seen discussions that you need to install some mods to get to that variable, and I've seen people say to make a custom printer and then you can change the nozzle diameter. I've also seen lots of people asking for help, and sometimes even posting "Oh I found it" later, but no details on where the setting is, why it's missing, etc.
https://old.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/bw5d43/nozzle\_diameter\_settings\_in\_cura\_40\_missing/
https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21438-suggestion-easy-change-nozzle-size/
# Answer
> 5 votes
> Where can I change the nozzle diameter in Cura?
The best way forward is to go back to the Creality Ender 3 print profile, if so, you can use this answer. So, you can select the correct nozzle size instantly.
> Why is mine missing?
But, if you created a new printer profile, that option is not available. This is because that option is not available in custom print profiles. In order to use that option, the printer profile requires a variants configuration option; e.g. `"variants_name": "Nozzle Size"` for the Ender 3 profile and for Ultimaker printers that is `"variants_name": "Print core"` as they use a printer nozzle core concept. In order to use "variants", the printer profile needs to be aware that variants are available (from the Cura wiki as linked below):
> ```
> # Whether your machine has the possibility to choose different variants.
> # If this is set to "true", you will see the variant selection menu in Cura for your machine.
> # By variants, we meant nozzles. You can have some specific variant profiles defined in folder
> # "resources/variants". See files there as examples.
> "has_variants": true,
>
> ```
*For more information on generating custom Cura printer profiles look into Cura wiki "Definition File Types and the Base Definition Files" and Cura wiki "Adding new machine profiles to Cura".*
So if you're profile doesn't support variants we need to revisit:
> Where can I change the nozzle diameter in Cura?
The nozzle diameter is part of the printer configuration, but, linked to the **Line Width** property. You therefor can set the line width to 1 mm to achieve the same. With respect to the nozzle diameter, it is also found for the custom printer layout using the following: with reference to version 4.13.0, the nozzle diameter is set in the machine setup. From the main menu go to **Settings**-\>**Printer**-\>**Manage Printers...**. Now select your printer (and activate it to be able to) select **Machine Settings** and go to the extruder tab sheet to change the nozzle diameter (option **Nozzle size** under nozzle settings).
If you change the setting of the nozzle size you will see that this updates the option "**Line Width**" of the *Quality* group print settings to the same size. E.g. after changing the 0.4 mm nozzle value to 0.6 mm you will find the line width value updated:
# Answer
> 2 votes
This is for Cura 4.13.1 but it shouldn't be very different than 4.11.0. This is also for the standard Ender 3 profile; it is not necessary to create a new profile for a different nozzle.
In the main window, select your filament then a drop-down window will appear with the **Material** and **Nozzle Size**. Select **Nozzle Size** and pick the desired size from the drop-down menu.
# Answer
> 2 votes
To confirm the OP's issue using Cura 5.2.1 and 5.3 (4/13/2023), as opposed to 4.x, I am attempting to change nozzle size on Ender 3 Pro and this is not in the following menu:
`Manage Printers>Ender 3 Pro>Machine Settings>Extruder`
You can see on the left, I am using Cura version 5.2.1 (Mac OS 12.6 Monterrey)
I was trying to create a profile for when I have the 1 mm Nozzle on there:
I *was* able to find Nozzle Diameter in a different place and change it successfully:
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, nozzle
--- |
thread-20812 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20812 | Filament curls up in the nozzle and doesn't stick to the bed | 2023-04-10T14:47:28.193 | # Question
Title: Filament curls up in the nozzle and doesn't stick to the bed
We have an old Anet A8 3D printer. It took us a while to fix it and get it running. But when it prints, the filament curls up and sticks to the nozzle end and doesn't stick to the bed.
Sometimes it doesn't curl up, if I wipe the nozzle after the printer starts. But when it prints, a portion of the filament sticks to the bed, but as the head moves, the whole thread of the filament dries up quickly and drags the part that did stick with it, messing everything up and curling up the nozzle like the first case.
My Anet A8 has a heated bed, but although the bed heats up, it seems like the filament dries up too quickly. Is that the problem, how to fix it ?
# Answer
> 2 votes
It looks like it is a problem with temperature. After changing filament temperature to 260 °C it prints excellent now. Printing PLA at 215 °C also works pretty well. Fresh new spool does magic or PLA does magic.
---
Tags: troubleshooting, adhesion, anet-a8
--- |
thread-20839 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20839 | The print broke into tangled filaments | 2023-04-16T17:02:27.940 | # Question
Title: The print broke into tangled filaments
I've just got an Ender-3 Pro printer and set it up according to general recommendations, including bed leveling (I used the "paper in the corners" technique). The test model that comes with the printer (a lucky cat figure) came out perfectly.
After that, I tried to print this model - Cat Stretch. I saw in the comments that others printed it successfully without support on the same printer, so I didn't add it.
Initially, everything was fine and the legs were printed ok, but the print broke into tangled filaments at some point.
Could somebody please advise what could have gone wrong?
# Answer
> 2 votes
As it was suggested by @kosteklvp the problem was most likely caused by the detachment of the hind legs from the base. I added a brim and it helped.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, adhesion
--- |
thread-20784 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20784 | What Cura setting is messing up my prints? | 2023-04-05T17:01:32.697 | # Question
Title: What Cura setting is messing up my prints?
After fiddling with the settings on my Cura profile, my Ender 3 S1 is now messing up my prints in a weird way. While printing, it just pauses at a corner on all the layers of the print for a second or so, leading to large blobs of material building up there. **What setting(s), if any could be causing this?**
As a note, my Cura settings are anything but default. I mess around with a lot of different options to try to optimize my prints. I could reset the profile to default, but I'd rather keep most of my settings.
Here is a picture of the issue:
# Answer
> 1 votes
Similar to what @kosteklvp suggested, it turns out the problem was related to the SD card I was using. It was a microSD card with an adapter, which may have been the problem. After swapping it out with for a different SD card, the printer now functions properly.
# Answer
> 1 votes
To me this looks related to the Z-seam and retraction settings. Play around with the Z-seam first by setting it to random. it might help. However, the retraction setting need adjusting as well. to me it look like is needs a bit more retraction. Hope it helps.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, ultimaker-cura, troubleshooting
--- |
thread-4288 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4288 | Why is the bottom of my part not smooth | 2017-06-26T05:21:55.250 | # Question
Title: Why is the bottom of my part not smooth
I printed Planetary Gears and the top looks great but the bottom doesn't
I am printing on a TronXY X3 (Prusa i3 metal frame clone) using eSun PLA+ and sliced using Cura 2.4. I print on glass and do manual leveling (sheet of paper to set gap).
What could be causing this?
It almost looks like a raft; but, I selected to print with a Brim not a Raft.
I have seen this on some other prints so I suspect it is a slicer setting. Note: Bed adhesion seemed great. First adhered well and part popped off with very little effort.
# Answer
**Your nozzle is too far from your bed.** The first layer isn't squished down sufficiently, resulting in these gaps. If your first layer looks like this, you should cancel your print and adjust the bed. Alternatively, you can adjust the initial height of the Z-axis in G-code (for instance, `G0 Z-0.1` followed by `G92 Z0`, which should be appended to your start G-code).
You can also try increasing the first layer height or the first layer extrusion multiplier. If you increase the first layer height, you will probably still have to adjust the bed slightly to bring the nozzle closer, but the thicker your first layer the larger the window where you get a good first layer.
Increasing the extrusion multiplier will effectively stretch the first layer to be thicker (and thus the model will come out slightly too high) and thus isn't necessarily a good idea, though some people find that a slight increase (to for instance, 110%) makes the first layer slightly more forgiving (but this also increases adherence, making parts harder to remove - there is a very fine line between getting good first layers and having your prints stuck permanently to the bed).
> 10 votes
# Answer
**@TomvanderZanden was correct**
**My nozzle was too far from your bed** (sort of)
Since my printer is manually leveled I have to use a sheet of paper to check each leveling point. This means the nozzle is about 0.1mm off the bed at home. In Cura, I had `Initial Layer Height=0.3mm` BUT this is supposed to be 0.3mm above the bed and my home will be already 0.1mm the bed; so, I really needed `Initial Layer Height=0.2mm`!
After doing that, the first layer laid down really nicely and all the lines got properly smooshed together.
> 3 votes
# Answer
In my case, the build plate adhesion type was set to raft in the cura software settings which is why a base will be printed first before printing the object on it. Hence, the bottom of the printed object will look rough because it needs to be easily separable from the initially printed base. Build plate adhesion type should be set to brim, skirt or none, the bottom print should be smooth. That was what worked for me.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, slicing, tronxy-x3
--- |
thread-20847 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20847 | Print failure due to heater inconsistency | 2023-04-20T08:37:48.857 | # Question
Title: Print failure due to heater inconsistency
After encountering an issue where the original heater cartridge (~40 W) for my generic MK6 hotend was unable to reach/maintain stable temperature at ~260 °C (for PETG) I replaced it with a higher wattage heater (60 W). The new heater heats up faster and can maintain temperature, but I noticed that if I try to print too fast it will become unstable and the printer stops with a heater error, even with a lower temperature of 250 °C. This can be seen in the temperature plot below.
I have performed PID tuning (see the nicely flat spots on the temperature plot), so I don't think that's the issue. The thermistor is well-secured to the block.
I am using a BTT SKR Pico V1.0 control board with Klipper over UART to a Raspberry Pi A3. Does anyone have experience with an issue like this? Could it be that the SKR Pico is not supplying sufficient power while also running the motors and heated bed?
# Answer
> 2 votes
This is very similar to what I recently experienced in the question Diagnosing sudden problem with hotend temperature, where the root cause seems to have been a bad thermistor - internal conductors probably broken in a way that they intermittently make reduced contact during toolhead motion. But I didn't have a problem while heating like your graph shows, only during motion, so it's also plausible that the wiring to the heater is bad. Since these aren't expensive components it might make sense to just replace the thermistor, heater cartridge, and any asssociated wiring if you don't want to spend time fighting with the problem.
---
Tags: troubleshooting, hotend, temperature
--- |
thread-20846 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20846 | What could cause delamination in the raft? | 2023-04-19T22:59:23.030 | # Question
Title: What could cause delamination in the raft?
I got a brand new Anycubic Photon Mono 4k about a week ago. Printer is new, FEP is clean, it was a fresh load of Anycubic Standard+ resin.
I got a couple of good prints, including perfect Cones of Calibration, miniatures etc, just things you print in your first week (I had Photon S before). This time I tried to print big, but flat and hollowed out model. Think vault door from Fallout. It was too big to print flat, so I tried standard 45°, heavy support, 90% automatic support density and then some when I felt like. About 5% in the print I noticed something weird, cancelled print, and that's how it looked like.
It delaminated in the middle of the raft. I *guess* it was just after bottom layers.
So, what could be the cause, and how can I prevent it from happening again?
---
Of course it's only now it is on the drip hanger, I printed it normally. I printed similar models on Anycubic Photon S previously and it usually worked, so whatever error I made here, it's something that probably didn't matter on older machine?
I had delamination previously, but never in the raft.
My exposure was tested, seems perfect, and other delamination advice seems not applicable for delamination inside the raft.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I'm not sure what exactly *was* the problem, but setting **Transition Layers Count** to **8** apparently solved it. I have no more fails since I did that, and one failure when I tried printing without them, for experimental purposes.
I would love to see an explanation of the mechanisms of this error, for now I share what worked for me.
---
Tags: delamination, anycubic-photon
--- |
thread-20824 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20824 | Any suggestions on problems with viscosity? | 2023-04-12T22:06:07.960 | # Question
Title: Any suggestions on problems with viscosity?
I just started resin printing in order to build enclosures for my little microcontroller projects. Sadly, I am having trouble getting good, planar, rectangular objects to print.
Background: I have no prior experience with filament or resin printing. I chose resin over filament for its higher precision, which I will need in future projects. I bought a well-recommended, popular 4K monochrome LCD printer. I was unwise in selecting a translucent resin for my learning-curve projects, but the first project required color. *(Note to self: try paint.)*
My first three prints were throw-aways as I learned the essentials. The first print was pretty encouraging, but I used no supports (the first 'essential') and it split during removal from the adhesion plate. The next two suffered drop-outs due to underexposure; a careful cleaning of the FEP was done after each to remove the pancaked material left behind.
Print 004 was promising, but had a rounded (drooping) corner and signs of pooling on the top of the rectangle. For print 005 I added more supports to that corner, thinned the rest out to increase drainage, and reduced exposure in hopes that this would avoid 'freezing' resin on the upper surface.
I seek advice on this pooling problem. Photo below. Print 005 shows 'waves', much like windswept water, 'above' each support point. The interior surfaces which were "face down" during printing are all pleasingly smooth and planar.
Elbow grease and 220-320-400 sandpaper can produce a more finished look; print 004 has been sanded and is on the left edge of the photo. But I really should only need to do a very light sanding, and then only to buff out tiny remnants of the supports, correct?
These objects were printed with 5mm lift and ~35 deg. tilt on both X and Y, lower-right corner first, upper-left last.
After reviewing my post, I suspect I need a lower exposure time.. but.. those drop-outs..
Thanks for your time, Regards.
PS: I neglected to mention that I do wash the prints before sun-curing them. I remove them from the build plate (with due caution), immerse them in about 2cm of IPA, agitate for 15-30 seconds, remove and rinse with non-chlorinated water.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Side with supports will always be deformed, at least a bit. Resin printer prints upside down. It pulls on the supports to lift the print from the FEP. But when you print a big flat surface, first layer is only barely cured, and very thin. It acts more like a tablecloth than a plywood. Supports at this stage are also very soft. Imagine you are trying to lift a tablecloth from a table, using only attached strings. How many strings do you need, to be sure tablecloth will not deform? The answer is, it can't be done.
So how to get a flat surface? There are couple of ways.
1. Print it directly on the bed. Bottom layers exposure must be dialed in just right for print not to fail, but be easy to remove when it's done.
2. Put side you want to be pretty at the bottom of the print, facing FEP. It'll be shown to be on top on the slicer, because printer works upside down. If ugly side is never to be seen, you don't have to sand it.
3. Tilt your print 45°. That way you will not need supports on the surface, as now it's printed in many narrow stripes, one built on another, and not as a couple of tablecloths. You would still need some on the edges, especially bottom one for load bearing and on others for support, but significantly less than printing flat.
What method do I use? **All of them**. I try to design my boxes with a small 45° bevel on the bottom. That way, when I tilt them 45° (point 3) with most important side away from the platform (point 2) I have a flat surface I can put directly on the platform. One that will hardly be seen, so little elephant foot won't bother me that much. Or, more recently, I use a filament printer, boxes are easier to print on them, in my personal experience.
---
Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting, sla, smoothing
--- |
thread-20851 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20851 | Is it a bad idea to run 24 V to 12 V step down to heated bed? | 2023-04-20T19:38:59.363 | # Question
Title: Is it a bad idea to run 24 V to 12 V step down to heated bed?
I've got a 12 V bed (MK2A) and a 24 V PSU (Meanwell 350). I've also got a 12-24 V Einsy Rambo controller, and I'd like to run my hotend at 24 V. My HEVO is still in development, so when I tested the bed, anything over 32 °C restarted the board (I forgot it was 12 V).
Must be a voltage drop from the bed draw? The Einsy has a dedicated rail for the bed, so I was thinking I could use a dropdown converter between the PSU and the board rail. So I could continue to run the 24 V PSU for everything else and 12 V for the bed. Is it a bad idea from a safety perspective to run a simple 24 V-\>12 V converter in line there?
Also, what would that do to my amperage, I read something about converting volts down causing high amps and wattages requirements. Is that true?
UPDATE:
I wanted to check if changing the bed config in Marlin would allow me to reduce the voltage and it appears that if I change MAX\_BED\_POWER to 127 (half) I can indeed run the bed as is. I can bring it up to 70 degrees at least at the moment. Admittedly I'm not sure what this does exactly and if this is safe. Thoughts?
This thread appears to discuss exactly my problem and my temporary solution with MAX\_BED\_POWER limit too.
https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,252638
Here's a similar discussion
# Answer
> 1 votes
# It will come with issues
1. Efficiency of good step down converters is 90%. Cheap ones used to start at 70%. What that means is:
* Additional strain on your PSU and control board.
* More heat to dissipate, that'll go to waste unless you have a closed chamber and print in things that requires high temperatures.
* Higher electricity bill than it needs to be.
2. Additional point of failure:
* You will spend more time building and debugging your device.
* Higher risk of failed prints in the future.
* More difficult repairs.
3. Lower voltage means thicker or hotter cables.
* Hotter is wasteful and can be dangerous.
* Stiffer is bad for bedslinger designs.
It is your choice if you are OK with these drawbacks. I would not, but none of these screams *"don't do it!"*. It's quite probable that you will be able to pull it off and make a decent printer.
---
Tags: heated-bed, power-supply
--- |
thread-20440 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20440 | Ender 5 Pro w/4.2.2 & BLTouch does not apply previously saved Z-offset | 2023-01-08T23:50:34.733 | # Question
Title: Ender 5 Pro w/4.2.2 & BLTouch does not apply previously saved Z-offset
Installed a BLTouch on an Ender 5 Pro. As usual, the official firmware from Creality is buggy trash (wrong BLTouch offsets, only 9 point probing, etc.) and useless to me.
I compiled and flashed the TH3D Unified firmware, which works well other than the fact that I have to redo the Z-offset via tune every time I do a print, as it does not apply the stored value (it does retain the value however). So the first print the Z-offset is ~ -11, and the next time it is -22, -33, etc.
Why is it doing this and how can I fix it?
Config files (Using marlin bugfix 2.1.x):
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rLc0XlNgTj02fTgg2V190oUmv1MEOt\_f
Side note:
So I was able to get the Creality stock firmware working by switching some wires around on the extruder and manually setting the offsets in pronterface, so anyone else in my predicament can at least do that- but I'm still stuck with v2.0.6 .bin file only and only 9 probing points so I really need a Marlin version that works as intended that I can compile myself.
Why is it that the latest Marlin often doesn't work on Creality printers and we are forced to use one that is years old?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Not sure if its a solution to your problem but I had a similar problem and this worked for me:
### My Problem
I could auto-home and configure my Z-offset as many times as I want but it behaved strangely. It just added the values on top and the offset did not apply whatever I did. I did auto home, drive to Z -3, set my Z-offset to -3, did auto home, and was again 3 millimeters too high.
### How did I get there
I compiled Marlin 2.1.2 with the configuration for the Creality Ender 5 Pro and enabled `ENDER5_USE_BLTOUCH`. I did some adjustments to `NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET` (where the 3rd parameter, the Z option didn't do anything).
### My Solution
I commented out (put `//` before these lines) `Z_HOMING_HEIGHT` and `Z_AFTER_HOMING` which were commented in by the author of the Ender 5 Pro configuration.
### Why I did that
I realised that every time the auto-home ran, it moved to Z 10. Ignoring my offset. This could be a bug, could be intentional behaviour but after commenting those lines it always moves 10+Z-offset down.
### My guess as to why this happened
My assumption is that it **always** moved 10 mm but those lines made Marlin believe it moved also respecting the offset.
---
Tags: marlin, print-axis-offset, th3d
--- |
thread-20844 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20844 | How graduate the correct belt tension | 2023-04-18T16:09:32.303 | # Question
Title: How graduate the correct belt tension
I moved a little the belt tension, and now the last layer is awful and weird. How I will know the correct tension? My printer is a custom BLV 220 x 220 x 280.
I think and I am almost sure, that this happened because the filament got a little tangled in the profile where I put the spool of it while printing, but, last week this happened, and since that moment, it has been having problems, which I am going to show and explain.
The top-left corner, after I started to change the tension belt, was worst, because the corner was more pronounced, pulling as elongated, in the image you can see a little, but it was worse the last few days.
And now, the rectangle orange, is new, because yesterday I changed the tension belt, and the last layer is like I show in the image.
At this moment, I am testing different tension, but the result is worse.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Experienced users of the printers just know it by feel, but for newbies there are apps for Android, like:
Belt tension meter (Newtons)
Easy Tension (lbf)
There are probably iPhone apps like that, I don't know them personally.
You measure and enter dimensions of your belt mechanism (as instructed by the app), then "strum" the belt (like a guitar string) within reach of your phone's microphone, and the app converts the frequency to force in Newtons or Pounds Force.
The "best" tension varies from printer to printer, but generally falls between 15N and 25N (~3.5 - 6 lbf); if you don't know what is *best* on your printer, going with 20N/4.5lbf is a safe bet that will produce *reasonable* results.
---
Tags: belt, corexy, belt-printer
--- |
thread-3302 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3302 | Tool to measure in STL files | 2017-01-01T14:49:33.857 | # Question
Title: Tool to measure in STL files
I want to create parts for a 3D printer using OpenSCAD. Having some STL files from the vendor, but nothing else (no technical drawing, no CAD files).
Does anybody knows a free tool, that allows me to
* measure distances between 2 selected vertices,
* measure distances between a selected vertex and a plane defined by 3 vertices,
* measure the radio of a circle defined by 3 selected vertices?
I very much like the way Blender allows to work with meshes, especially select vertices or planes, but unfortunately haven't found a way to measure with Blender.
# Answer
> 18 votes
I suggest Blender. It's not the simplest of tools but it is free and learning it will improve your 3D printing skills. :-) (I write this answer also for future viewers of this question so I start basic).
Another answer can be found here, How do I measure a distance between two points?
1. Import your STL file.
2. Press the Home key to view everything.
3. Select the model by clicking on it with your left mouse button. (Blender changed to left-click-select as of version 2.80)
4. Hit tab to enter edit-mode.
5. Press N (or use View | Properties) until the Properties panel shows up.
6. Select the "Length" checkbox in the "Edge Info" section of the Properties panel (see image below).
7. Select "Edge Select" mode (see image below)
8. Select the edge to measure by clicking on it with your right mouse button.
If you need to measure the distance between to vertices with no edge. Create the edge by selecting them and pressing `F`. If you need to measure the distance between a vertex and any other point, select it and press `E` to extrude.
# Answer
> 3 votes
As @Gunslinger suggested, I would also recommend Blender for these tasks.
Blender comes with the Add-on "MeasureIt", which has to be activated manually in **Edit ► Preferences ► Add-ons ► Official/Community ►** search for MeasureIt, check the checkbox:
Import your STL file via **File ► Import ► STL ►** ...
Select your object and hit `TAB` to enter Edit Mode and then follow the tips in this screenshot:
# Answer
> 3 votes
Use Meshy "...a WebGL-based tool that does measurements and simple transformations on STL and OBJ files.": https://0x00019913.github.io/meshy/
# Answer
> 2 votes
If you're running Windows, MS 3D Builder has a measuring tool and may already be installed on your machine.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Meshmixer has various measuring tools for STLs as well
# Answer
> 0 votes
That is great. You can also do the 3D model measurements using SelfCAD software. I can confidently recommend to all users because it is suitable for both 3D artists and beginners. The software has a built-in Measurement Tool that allows users to accurately measure the size of 3D models. The tool can be used to measure the length, width, height, and angle of a 3D model. To use the Measurement Tool, users simply select the part of the model that they want to measure and then move the pointer to the desired measurement point. The Measurement Tool will then display the measurements in the software’s measurement panel. Check this video on how to do the measurements of 3D models using SelfCAD
# Answer
> -1 votes
I recommend Ultimaker Cura 4.3 for dimensioning.
You can access it here.
As can be seen, detailed measurements can be made over the specified coordinates.
However, you can make an accurate dimensioning by using the Render program. I recommend doing this before working on the STL file.
I wish you good work.
---
Tags: 3d-models, software, blender
--- |
thread-20876 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20876 | Can I lubricate the timing belts to prevent squeaking against pulleys? | 2023-04-26T02:02:14.913 | # Question
Title: Can I lubricate the timing belts to prevent squeaking against pulleys?
My CoreXY style printer doesn't have perfect belt alignment with its pullies, so there is some occasional squeaking on at least one pulley where the belt rubs against a flange. Since I don't have an easy way of adjusting the pulleys (maybe some *tiny* shim washers) I was hoping to just apply some oil to minimize the wear.
Could I just throw some 3-in-1 oil on the belt? Is there a better lubricant to use? I doubt that the belt would start skipping, but I am worried about damaging the belt due to some chemical incompatibility with the oil.
The belt is the most generic GT2-style timing belt you would find on a 3D printer, probably the same as this HICTOP 3D Printer Belt.
# Answer
The pulleys on nearly every 3D printer I've seen are held in place on the stepper motor shaft with a grub screw. A bit of rotation of the pulley should bring into view this screw, which will use a fairly small hex wrench. Loosen the screw and slide the pulley in the direction appropriate to relieve the friction.
photo courtesy random selection from pinterest
If you are unable to access the screws and choose to lubricate the belt, consider to use a non-reactive PTFE (teflon) type or silicone type substance and apply it sparingly to the belt edges. If the teeth of the belt and pulley receive the substance, you may not be able to avoid belt jumps under high acceleration movement.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: maintenance, linear-motion, belt
--- |
thread-20875 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20875 | Klipper M204 macro query | 2023-04-25T18:37:15.890 | # Question
Title: Klipper M204 macro query
It is my vague understanding that the following macro somehow controls acceleration and accel to decel.
1. How do I set the speed I want for say, acceleration in this macro?
2. If acceleration is set in this macro and also set in a slicer like Cura, which value will end up being implemented?
I would greatly appreciate it if someone were to walk me through whats happening in the macro conditional. I have experience with php bot nil with Python.
```
[gcode_macro M204]
rename_existing: M204.1
gcode:
{% set f = params.F|default(0.5)|float %}
{% if 'S' in params %}
{% set s = params.S|float %}
SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL={s} ACCEL_TO_DECEL={ s * f }
{% else %}
{% if 'P' in params %}
{% set p = params.P|float %}
{% if 'T' in params %}
{% set t = params.T|float %}
{% if p < t %}
SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL={p} ACCEL_TO_DECEL={ p * f }
{% else %}
SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL={t} ACCEL_TO_DECEL={ t * f }
{% endif %}
{% else %}
SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL={p} ACCEL_TO_DECEL={ p * f }
{% endif %}
{% elif 'T' in params %}
{% set t = params.T|float %}
SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL={t} ACCEL_TO_DECEL={ t * f }
{% endif %}
{% endif %}
```
# Answer
> 0 votes
The `M204` command is how gcode sets the acceleration for moves that follow (up until the next `M204` command changes it). This command appears in gcode generated by a slicer with "acceleration control" enabled. You can also write it manually in your start gcode (not very useful unless acceleration control is off, since the first slicer-emitted `M204` will override it, but may be useful for priming line, etc.) or send it manually over a terminal session/via Octoprint terminal/etc.
The macro you're looking at overrides the `M204` command and replaces it with one that does several things:
* Does an over-complicated staircase of if/else clauses to accept the Marlin `P` and `T` parameters to the `M204` command for separate print and travel accelerations, but then ignores them and just uses the min of the two.
* Accepts a new `F` parameter (likely meaning factor) and sets Klipper's "accel to decel" setting to this factor times the requested acceleration. This allows "accel to decel" to be kept consistently to whatever the desired percentage of the acceleration limit is, even under changes in acceleration.
Aside from the if/else staircase being a mess, this macro fails to save the factor passed by `F`, so unless the slicer knows to emit `F` each time it emits an `M204` command, it's always going to be resetting the factor to `0.5` (the default above) each time acceleration changes. Klipper allows definition of persistent variables for gcode macros; this is probably what the author intended to do but didn't know how to do.
Overall, the above looks not-very-useful. "Accel to decel" is a questionable feature to begin with, and with input shaper, it arguably just makes your prints a lot slower with no benefit. The modern recommendation of most folks is that you just set `max_accel_to_decel` to 999999999 in your configuration to turn it off, rather than going through hoops to change it dynamically like this, as long as you have turned on input shaping.
In any case, the presence of this macro in no ways interferes with acceleration control by the slicer, and you don't have to "use" this macro at all. It's purpose is not for you to "use" it but for it to hook the `M204` commands the slicer emitted and make them do something extra.
---
Tags: klipper
--- |
thread-20867 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20867 | Create a 3D-Model out of a 2D-Stack of microscopic planes and analyze it according to volume, side faces and number? | 2023-04-24T12:19:06.650 | # Question
Title: Create a 3D-Model out of a 2D-Stack of microscopic planes and analyze it according to volume, side faces and number?
for my graduation project I have to compare cells in a 3D- Model to one another in regard of their volume, side faces and the corresponding forms and their numbers. First, I have about 300 Tif-Files of microscopic planes of cells (black and white) that I want to create a 3D-Model orientating on the cell membranes.
Second, I need a code or program that can differentiate the cell membrane (white to grey in TIF) from the cytoplasm (black in TIF), kind of trace it and then analyze the volumina of each cell and side faces in regard to their forms (what types of polygons they resemble) and the number of each form in the whole 3D-Stack (not bound to the cells where they occur, just a numeric listing).
Can you recommend a program for these problems? Or for the individual programms?
I am unfortunately not very knowledgeable in this field and would greatly appreciate your advice.
# Answer
> 1 votes
In 3D printing, the opposite is usually the desired project, that is, to take a solid and slice it into layers. Many options abound in that respect.
For your objective, one might arbitrarily assign a thickness to each layer in order to provide for the third dimension and cluster each layer appropriately.
One can possibly use a program known as OpenSCAD, free multi-platform. The code that comes to mind is to import the bitmap (which will have to be converted to SVG) and use linear\_extrude() to create a thickness. Each image will then be translated in the z-axis to stack them with a minimal overlap to ensure manifold status (required for 3D models). The overlap can be as small as 0.0625 to minimize the overall effect, which can match the extrusion thickness as appropriate.
OpenSCAD uses implicit union to form the complete model, creating a result of one cell structure.
I see complications in that your TIFF file is grey scale and the process I describe is two-bit, black and white. If you can convert the bitmap to SVG and filter out by a threshold value, it may work.
OpenSCAD supports scripting but I think the key factor will be greyscale to two-bit and whether you can separate the images you have in a manner suitable for your objective.
To that end, consider to post in the graphic design SE for a suitable program and/or method to solve the bitmap problem. Alignment of each layer is going to be based on the position in the original bitmap and the subsequent SVG file creation. If they are not properly aligned, some manual adjustment may be required.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Your problem can be solved by the "Marching cubes" algorithm and is more appropriately placed in a 3D modeling stack exchange. Here is an answer to a similar question about constructing 3D models from CT-scans: Conversion of DICOM files to STL files
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, software
--- |
thread-12188 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12188 | Simultaneous heating of extruder and bed at start of print | 2020-03-15T18:50:56.100 | # Question
Title: Simultaneous heating of extruder and bed at start of print
I notice that if I print from Cura without preheating the printer, it will first raise the bed temperature and then raise the extruder temperature. The G-code it generates is:
```
M140 S55 ; set bed temperature to 55 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M190 S55 ; wait for bed temperature to reach 55 C
M104 S210 ; set hot end temperature to 210 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M109 S210 ; wait for hot end temperature to reach 210 C
```
The "Preheat" feature of Cura presumably send the "set temperature" commands without the corresponding "wait" command.
Wouldn't it be more efficient to do something like this:
```
M104 S210 ; set hot end temperature to 210 C
M140 S55 ; set bed temperature to 55 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M109 S210 ; wait for hot end temperature to reach 210 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M190 S55 ; wait for bed temperature to reach 55 C
```
Then the bed and extruder heat up simultaneously, and we wait for the higher temperature one *first* assuming that the other will reach its target temperature in the meanwhile.
If this is sound, is there a way to set this in Cura, or would I need to submit a patch?
# Answer
> 10 votes
This can be achieved with start G-code adaptations, this requires no software changes. Cura, and most slicers, have the ability to use placeholders (basically variables or maybe better: constants). These placeholders are substituted with the correct value upon slicing.
To sequentially heat the bed and hotend you would need to add the following into your start G-code:
```
M117 Heating bed 1st...
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M117 Heating core 2nd...
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}
```
For simultaneous heating you need to add:
```
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temperature to e.g. 55 °C and continue
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set hot end temperature to e.g. 210 °C and continue
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temperature to reach e.g. 55 °C
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for hot end temperature to reach e.g. 210 °C
```
Note that Cura is very limited in using placeholders. E.g. Slic3r allows for arithmetic using the placeholders. The following example shows heating the bed first to the bed first layer temperature minus 10 degrees Celsius; then the hotend starts heating and heatbed starts further heating up to the final temperature. For my machine this results in the bed and hotend being at final temperature at the same time; so no time is wasted and printing can start.
```
M117 Heating bed...
M190 S{[first_layer_bed_temperature]-10}
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]
M117 Heating core...
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0]
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]
```
# Answer
> 3 votes
I have an open bug report/feature request for this. Apparently Cura doesn't do it because some of Ultimaker's printers have underpowered power supplies that will shut off if you try to do both at the same time. I've been carrying a patch (note this is against CuraEngine not the Cura GUI) that fixes this:
```
diff --git a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp
index de3c771c..ced22017 100644
--- a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp
+++ b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp
@@ -500,7 +500,7 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage& stor
const Temperature bed_temp = scene.current_mesh_group->settings.get<Temperature>("material_bed_temperature_layer_0");
if (bed_temp != 0)
{
- gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, scene.current_mesh_group->settings.get<bool>("material_bed_temp_wait"));
+ gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, false);
}
}
}
@@ -547,6 +547,18 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage& stor
}
}
}
+
+ if (scene.current_mesh_group->settings.get<bool>("material_bed_temp_prepend"))
+ {
+ if (scene.current_mesh_group->settings.get<bool>("machine_heated_bed"))
+ {
+ const Temperature bed_temp = scene.current_mesh_group->settings.get<Temperature>("material_bed_temperature_layer_0");
+ if (bed_temp != 0)
+ {
+ gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, scene.current_mesh_group->settings.get<bool>("material_bed_temp_wait"));
+ }
+ }
+ }
}
}
```
# Answer
> 1 votes
```
import os
for filename in os.listdir():
if filename.endswith(".gcode"):
with open(filename, "r") as file:
lines = file.readlines()
for i in range(len(lines)):
if "M140 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M140 S50\n"
elif "M104 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M190 S50\n"
elif "M190 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M104 S185\n"
elif "M109 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M109 S185\n"
lines = [line for line in lines if "M105" not in line] # remove first two M105 lines
with open(filename, "w") as file:
file.writelines(lines)
```
I wrote the above Python script to edit my G-codes in bulk for a plane I'm creating. This makes both extruder and bed heat up at the same time. It changes the places the code comes up in the order that @0scar listed above. And removes the grab temp `M105` lines. This makes my prints start at least a few minutes faster which is nice when you have many to do.
1. Install python3 in Windows or Linux,
2. Create a file called `something.py`
3. Paste the code above and save
4. Move the script to the same folder of G-code
5. Open cmd or PowerShell or Linux terminal and type `python3 something.py` or `python3 ./something.py`
It will update all G-codes to heat simultaneously. For modifying yourself edit the temps I have `S50` for the bed and `S185` for the extruder.
# Answer
> 0 votes
It is a little annoying, what `Cura` is doing for me is forcing to wait. On start G-code I have:
```
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***
M140 S60 ; start preheating the bed
M104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend
G28 ; home
M190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting
M109 S200
;*** End Preheating ***M420 S1; Load Mesh Bed Level
```
But on the generated G-code I have:
```
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.0
M140 S60
M105
M190 S60
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***
M140 S60 ; start preheating the bed
M104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend
G28 ; home
M190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting
M109 S200
```
In the end I'm changing it directly on G-code what is a pain
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code
--- |
thread-20888 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20888 | CraftBot XL (CoreXY) part of x-axis movement resistance / high force required | 2023-04-30T16:37:30.113 | # Question
Title: CraftBot XL (CoreXY) part of x-axis movement resistance / high force required
I have recently acquired a 'CraftBot XL' 3D printer (sold by CraftUnique), which is a CoreXY 3D printer with linear rails. It is a second-hand purchase and the seller were a company that had several. This particular unit has an issue where sometimes during X-axis movement, the Y-axis would move as well. They replaced the stepper motors, but the problem persisted so they opted to sell the machine.
I have found a possible cause of this issue. When I tried to move the carriage around manually, I noticed a particular heavy resistance / "drag" on approx. 1/3rd to 1/2 of the X-axis motion, toward the left extent of the build space. The remainder of the X axis and the Y and Z-axes are completely free to move as they ought to.
The force required to move the carriage in the problematic part of the X-axis is (subjectively) quite large. Much much larger than any other movement. I believe that during some combined XY-manouevers (diagonal movement), this force is too large, causing the carriage to only move in the Y-axis, resulting in errant behavior (at best: layer shift, at worst: carriage getting stuck and the printer needing to be reset). The behavior arises during homing often, as the home position is in the problematic area. An additional reason that I think the X-axis force is too large is that, when this problem occurs and I ever so slightly help the carriage along the X-axis with my hand, the movement can complete without issue.
Steps I have undertaken to no avail yet:
* Re-tension belts, make sure they are of roughly equal tension all around
* Lubricate all axes with PTFE dry lube spray
* Disconnect belts to see if they are causing the issue (they aren't, with belts completely disconnected the problem is unchanged)
This is a diagram of the setup:
What else could be causing this? I don't hear any out of place noises like metal grinding.
The next thing I want to check is the squareness of the gantry. I think I know how to measure it, but I'm not sure how to adjust it if it's off. Any help there?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I'm going to answer this myself, as I believe I have found the issue. It was purely a mechanical issue.
On this particular model, the extruder motor rides just on top of / above the crossbar that the linear rail is mounted under. The extruder motor was mounted very close to this crossbar, there was barely any clearance between the two. I figure that due to a slight deviation in height or non-squaredness in the ZY-axis, the motor started to heavily rub on the bar toward the left extent of the X-axis. I tested with a piece of paper, which I slid between the motor and the bar. This immediately caused the same "resistance" I was feeling before, but now everywhere along the X-axis.
After re-mounting the extruder motor about 1 mm higher, which the frame already allowed for, there is no longer any improper resistance noticable along any axis:
---
Tags: linear-motion, belt, corexy, carriage
--- |
thread-20890 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20890 | How to connect Arduino Uno R3 to Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 V3 | 2023-05-01T18:56:20.907 | # Question
Title: How to connect Arduino Uno R3 to Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 V3
I can't seem to find wiring diagrams anywhere, so I am asking here.
Which pins do I use to connect my Arduino Uno to my Bigtreetech board?
I am connecting the Arduino to use it as an ICSP programmer, so that you can flash the BigTreeTech board. I have a V3 board version.
# Answer
First, make sure that you have flashed your Uno to be an ICSP programmer.
Then you just connect up the SPI pins of the two boards.
The pins on the Uno that you must use, are these, circled in yellow (you can ignore the red circles):
The pin out is as follows:
The pins on the BigTreeTech board are shown on the right hand edge/side of the board, half way down, where it says **SPI1**:
The SPI pins on the v3 version of the board are still in a similar location, *but in a different order* (along with 2 other pins, that can be ignored):
Connect these pins on the Uno, to the "*like-for-like*" pins on the BigTree - no crossing over of wires is required. So, connect:
* MOSI to MOSI
* MISO to MISO
* SCK to SCK
* RESET to RESET
* VCC to VCC
* GND to GND
On the V3 board ignore the additional `NSS` and `3.3V` pins on the SPI1 connector
---
### References
> 2 votes
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Tags: bigtreetech, wiring, arduino
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thread-20894 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20894 | How do I remove congealed, hardened filament from around the hot end from a Cubicon Single Plus | 2023-05-02T14:20:21.800 | # Question
Title: How do I remove congealed, hardened filament from around the hot end from a Cubicon Single Plus
I have a Cubicon Single Plus printer, and the filament has balled up all around the nozzle and hot end. I was wondering if there is any easier way than butting it off carefully with a pair of side cutters.
I have heated up the block and nozzle to 230 degrees Celsius, but that may not help.
# Answer
You just need the right tool for this, a brass brush, something like:
They're typically available for less than a dollar from hardware stores, or you can order them various places online.
Use it while the nozzle is hot, and with the sock removed, and everything should come right off. Take care not to brush the electrical connections to the heater/thermistor, since this might cause a short and fry your controller board if any conductors are inadvertently exposed.
> 0 votes
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Tags: filament
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thread-20897 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20897 | I am pulling my hair out, why does my text start a few layers in to the top of my base? | 2023-05-03T12:52:46.613 | # Question
Title: I am pulling my hair out, why does my text start a few layers in to the top of my base?
This is kind of hard to explain but I have a 2 mm disc that has text on the top, it's a stamp effectively. I want my text to start right on the top after the top layer of the base (if that makes sense), but it's starting the text a few layers down into the top which is making the infill lines a right mess
The text seems to start a few layers down in the top of the base, and it's causing it to look a mess as it's going around it all.
# Answer
You should have tagged this with the slicer you're using. Presumably that's Cura, and this is likely the "Skin Edge Support Thickness"/"Skin Edge Support Layers" feature.
Because you have some infill layers before the top layers, Cura is putting lines underneath the edges so they have something solid to build on. Otherwise you'd be likely to get top surface gaps or features on top that easily break off.
While you can turn off the skin edge support, what I would do if you find it undesirable here is to increase the number of bottom layers slightly so that there are no infill layers in between. It looks like you only have 2 layers of infill, and having them there is just making problems; you'd do better to make the whole part print solid.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Your problem has to do with the top layers of your part surrounding the raised text. The infill for your raised text continues a bit because it's not yet close to the top.
The print becomes a mess because the inner walls for the raised text don't hit any infill material like the top layers in this Benchy:
To remedy this, you can try several different things.
1. Connect Infill Lines. Assuming you use the Cura slicer, you can use the Connect Infill Lines option which is specifically designed to create extra support for top layers. If the option isn't visible yet you can find it in the additional Infill settings:
2. Increase infill density. You can increase the infill density ans check if the corners hit (or are very close to) the infill after slicing. In the example below, I raised the infill density from 10% to 25% and all corners are well supported by the infill. This is often not the best solution because it will severely increase the print time and used material.
3. Change infill pattern. You can play around with different infill patterns to see if another pattern is more favourable for the unsupported walls. I changes the infill pattern to `Lines` in this example and it supports the top layers a tiny bit better.
4. If all else fails, you can add another piece and set the Per Model Settings for the overlapping regions. I added a simple cube and increased the infill density for the overlaps to 50% and got this result:
Of course there are al lot more things you can try but these are some options that have worked for me in the past. Hope it helps!
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, layer-height, print-failure
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thread-1334 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1334 | What is the easiest way to modify/resize an object inside a STL file? | 2016-06-13T18:08:39.310 | # Question
Title: What is the easiest way to modify/resize an object inside a STL file?
I have this GoPro mount for a quadcopter as STL file. It looks as follows.
How do I modify it so that it is wider and longer by a few millimeters but the screw holes stay the exact same size? Additionally the angle of the upper surface must stay the same. Please suggest the easiest solution for someone like me who as no idea about CAD software.
The perfect solution for me would be to just import it in Tinkercad and then modify it however I have no idea what the steps are.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Many resources are available for modification using 3D CAD (including learning a tool such as sketchup, which is VERY beginner friendly). The easiest and fastest solution to your particular problem may be the reddit community "3D Print My Thing" which was created for EXACTLY this type of situation (help with modelling parts which will be 3D printed.) Another potential useful reddit community is "3D Modelling" which will have many people who are able to help you with this quadcopter/Go-Pro attachment 3D model.
Third solution: Thingiverse has a customize option for 3D models (including this one). have you explored using this interface to edit the model? This is most likely the easiest DIY solution.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Unfortunately, there is no simple method for modifying specific features of an STL. You are pretty much limited to the following actions:
* Scaling (The entire model along three independent axis)
* Breaking the model into parts/chunks
* Mirroring or Rotating the object
* Skewing an object (twisting)
Even the last action requires a 3D CAD program. I would suggest you develop your own model. OpenSCAD is a free 3D CAD program that works well. If you are comfortable with TinkerCAD, you should be able to easily develop your own version of this mount.
Good luck!
# Answer
> 1 votes
I think what you are trying to do is somewhat non-trivial so whatever tool you choose there will be some learning curve.
OpenSCAD, as mentioned above, is pretty well established as an open source tool for modifying STLs; however you have to be comfortable writing programmatic CAD instead of using GUI tools. Personally, I think programmatic CAD is MUCH easier but I realize not everyone feels that way. FWIW, I would probably break this into three STLs using a DIFFERENCE method, stretch the outer ones using a SCALE method, then use a UNION to put them back together.
The one problem that I've had with OpenSCAD is that it will frequently crash unexpectedly or run incredibly slowly when dealing with an STL with a large number of triangles.
AtomicCompiler.com is very similar to OpenSCAD but runs as a web service and seems to do a bit better when dealing with large STLs. I might try that first, as it doesn't require a download or even a login.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Well. I would cut it into two STLs, using netfabb slice / split tool.
in 123d I would fill in the hole with the merge union (with a cylinder object), scale it, and either keep it unfilled and drill it, or do a subtraction union on where you want the holes. (again with a cylinder)
Scaling otherwise you need the original model and solidworks..
Split in 2, scale the piece you want and re-add the other half is probably the best way.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I would suggest using Blender for this purpose. It has excellent selection tools, you can undo/redo selection and obviously you can resize any portion without affecting the others. However, you may need to learn Blender to an intermediate level to be able to effectively do that.
# Answer
> 0 votes
By far the easiest program to use is Tinkercad and it's free.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I've tried many tools, and many ways. The easiest way I found was to use Blender as previously mention.
A good (and fast) tutorial to expand pieces without stretching them is
# Answer
> 0 votes
I like to use Slic3r for simplest slicing and rearranging operations.
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Tags: 3d-design, software, 3d-models
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thread-20776 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20776 | Thermal runaway without error on power-on - Ender 3, BTT Octopus V1.1, and Sprite Pro | 2023-04-03T20:11:27.823 | # Question
Title: Thermal runaway without error on power-on - Ender 3, BTT Octopus V1.1, and Sprite Pro
I just swapped out my MicroSwiss direct-drive extruder and hotend for a Creality Sprite Pro on my Ender 3 with an upgraded mother board to the BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 and I'm experiencing thermal runaway on power-on.
Previous (working) configuration:
* Ender 3 pro
* BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 loaded with Klipper firmware
* MicroSwiss direct-drive
New configuration:
* Ender 3 pro
* BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 loaded with klipper firmware
* Creality Sprite Pro
Steps that I'm taking to hit thermal runaway:
1. Turn on power switch for the Ender 3 Pro.
NOTE: Thermal Runaway Protection does not work here. The TRP detects and triggers, but Klipper doesn't seem to have any ability to control the heating tube. Instead, Klipper shuts down and the heating tube keeps running away. Each time I've had to cut the power manually.
Additional things that I've tried:
* **Powering on using the power from the Raspberry Pi's USB port** \- this powers on the printer but will error on any attempt to drive motors or run the extruder. RESULT: thermal runaway to the best that it can, plateauing around 60 °C.
* **Powering on using the power from the Raspberry Pi's USB port, then disconnecting and powering on without the Raspberry Pi connected, then powering down and reconnecting the Raspberry Pi** \- this confirms for me that in the absence of the Raspberry Pi, it still reaches a runaway state; RESULT: monitoring before and after powering manually showed a jump of 100 °C in 30 seconds, meaning if the printer has power, it will power the heating tube with as much as it can.
* **Reversing the + and - wires** \- this is the recommendation in the instruction manual, *"If 3D printer restarts during hotend heating up, please reverse the heating tube connectors on mainboard"*; RESULT: prevents the printer from powering on - everything appears dead and returning the cables to the correct polarities returns it to a runaway state.
# Answer
## Totally unexpected behavior?!
A heater cartridge is nothing but a resistor. Swapping the "polarity" should do nothing. As this results in totally different results, it is to be expected that the motherboard sustained damage in some area and would need a total refurbishment or replacement.
> 0 votes
# Answer
*This question seems to be solved, this (community) answer is posted as a whole from comment until the OP adds a more detailed answer.*
---
> I swapped back in the original heating tube and it had the same issue. I was able to get it all working by using the second heating element port on the Octopus board.
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, heat-management, creality, bigtreetech, klipper
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thread-20904 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20904 | Best materials for printing mountains | 2023-05-05T08:14:46.670 | # Question
Title: Best materials for printing mountains
Can you suggest me some good material choices for printing some mountains models for educational and fun purposes?
My goal is to mantain the best accuracy without spending too much, I have many models to print: they don't need to be super-resistant.
I was thinking about High-Detail Resin or simple PLA / Recycled rPLA. I also checked Rigid Resin and Color-Changing PLA.
Here are some examples of my models:
# Answer
> 0 votes
Material is not really going to affect the accuracy unless you're using very exotic things like lightweight foaming materials where the expansion is variable. You don't even have overhangs. So accuracy is pretty much entirely a function of the process, the quality of your machine, and the settings you use.
Resin will generally have higher resolution than FDM if that's what you're looking for. With FDM you can increase resolution somewhat by using a smaller nozzle, but that will make large prints like this very slow. Within the broad classes of resin or FDM, though, which specific resin or which specific polymer or color or brand you use is not going to make a difference. Pick the one that meets your aesthetic needs.
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Tags: 3d-models, print-material, dimensional-accuracy
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thread-20907 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20907 | Ender 3 loss of power | 2023-05-06T01:46:53.167 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 loss of power
I have a Sprite Pro extruder kit with the BTT SKR Mini E3 screen bundle. When I plug in the Sprite Pro, the entire board shuts off. What do I need to do? I have tried to switch the wires.
# Answer
It sounds like there might be a short circuit occurring when you plug in the Sprite Pro extruder kit, causing the entire board to shut off.
Check the wiring: Ensure that the wiring connections between the extruder kit and the screen are correct and secure. Double-check the wiring diagrams for both components to ensure that you have connected them correctly.
Check for shorts: Use a multimeter on continuity mode to check for any shorts in the wiring.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, extruder, bigtreetech
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thread-20918 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20918 | How to print a Single face (one sided) 3D scan | 2023-05-08T16:00:41.620 | # Question
Title: How to print a Single face (one sided) 3D scan
I took a scan using Polycam on my phone of a 3D object and exported it, but when put it in Cura it says there are missing surfaces, and I’m pretty sure this is because it’s only taken face-on, there is no back. When I go to print preview it looks strange and doesn’t work, I just want to print the scan I have taken attached to a block or something.
I am happy to provide images, etc.
# Answer
> 3 votes
If you've created a 3D scan, the resulting mesh will have depth, perhaps not a great depth. The slicer dislikes open mesh and as you've discovered, will not print in a manner to meet your requirements.
Using a third party program to adjust the mesh into a 2D image, you can then extrude the necessary depth to create a manifold 3D print. Without knowing your comfort level with other software, it can be a challenge to determine the best program.
First to mind is Meshmixer (free, multi-platform), Fusion 360 (free hobbyist version), OpenSCAD, (free, multi-platform) and many others with which I'm not as familiar.
One would import the recently created mesh, clean up the debris typically created by these scanner programs and if possible, extrude within the selected program to create the depth aspect.
As an example, one can import the mesh file into Fusion 360, create a sketch plane and project the mesh onto the plane. This creates the 2D image which can be extruded within Fusion 360 to create a printable, exportable file.
The real key here is to implement just one more program to take that step to your goal.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-15922 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15922 | Ender 3 V2 blank screen and LCD continuous beeping with clicks | 2021-03-21T23:27:56.597 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 V2 blank screen and LCD continuous beeping with clicks
So I have been having an ongoing problem with my printer that I just can't solve. I don't usually ask the questions on stack exchanges until my problem gets unsolvable. Unfortunately like this one
**Printer**: Creality Ender 3 V2
**Current Board**: Creality v4.2.7 (Silent Motor)
**Background**: This started when I accidentally fried the T20 chip on the v4.2.2 mainboard when I tried to install the BLTouch incorrectly (I looked at the photo upside down) and and also accidentally pulled the wire out and what I guess is why the T20 chip was fried. I thought at first the PSU was the one causing the trouble at first so I replaced it. Then found the burnt chip and decided to upgrade the board to a v4.2.7. I installed everything correctly according to a video that I found somewhere on YouTube.
**Current Problem(s)**: When I turn on the machine the light on the mainboard is on but there is continuous beeping coming from the display with small clicks like a clock every 1 sec. or so. The backlight to the display is on but nothing is shown. I just found with a multimeter that the bed and nozzle terminals give no volts back.
**Firmware**: I have tried to update the firmware to the official one off of Creality's website and also using the source code for Marlin v2.0.7.2 with PlatformIO. The tutorial I followed was here:
**Update \[3/24\]**: Found that the firmware seems to not flash even after giving the .bin file a different name.
**Extra Thoughts**: I currently have no idea what to do. I think I might replace the LCD and its cable. I have only printed a few things and just want to get back to it but I don't want to buy a whole new printer to do so. I feel like I get closer to getting back to it every time I fix something but I'm starting to lose hope that it's just a never ending problem loop. I appreciate any help given.
# Answer
Thanks to the comment from @Rykara, they led me to the answer:
> Could be a bad or incorrectly formatted SD card. I think the card needs to be FAT32 format. Try reformating and/or using a different SD card?
The whole problem was kinda a firmware issue but on the SD card side. The reason why it wasn't flashing was because I didn't flash the SD card to use the FAT32 format. Unfortunately I tried every other format option except that one before hand, mostly because I am mainly on a Mac. Now there is no more problems and I am back on track to printing. :)
> 4 votes
# Answer
I had the constant beeping, black screen issue.
I went to Creality Cloud Firmware for 3D Printers: Ender 3 v2 Mainboard version 4.2.2.
I installed `Ender-3 V2-Marlin-2.0.1 - V1.2.1 - Filament` because I have the Ender 3 v2 4.2.2 board. This is the only firmware that loaded. I then reran all the other compatible firmware and it loaded them fine. But it only fixed itself once I ran the one with `- Filament`. **No idea why!?!?!** I spent hours and this is what did it.
The site's root is Creality Cloud: Download Creality Firmware and Software.
> 1 votes
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Tags: marlin, creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, electronics
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thread-20922 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20922 | Preview bug in Cura 4.10.0 | 2023-05-10T08:07:26.050 | # Question
Title: Preview bug in Cura 4.10.0
I am interested in 3D printing projects and I use the Cura program for that purpose. Lately, when I preview my models in the Cura program to prepare for printing, I encounter an error and my prints come out distorted. I am using version Cura 4.10.0. Does anyone have experience with this version? Could there be an issue with the integrity or the geometric compatibility of my files in terms of dimensions and size? If anyone has experienced a similar problem, could you please help me?
Thank you in advance.
# Answer
> 2 votes
You are using a fairly old version of UltiMaker Cura, you should try a more recent version of Cura to test if it happens in the newer version as well.
Currently, at the time of writing, the latest version of Cura is 5.3.1.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-20820 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20820 | Creality Ender3V2 extruder calibration | 2023-04-12T14:55:49.610 | # Question
Title: Creality Ender3V2 extruder calibration
I have a Ender3V2 Creality 3D printer. I recently changed the extruder for a metal one because the previous was broken.
I have troubles to print now. The adhesion layer peels off easily (kinds of bubbles inside that lift it) and the overall quality is poor.
While looking for a solution, I noticed that my extruder was not calibrated correctly. However, following the standard procedure does not fix my problem. Below is what I did and the results:
The PTFE tube is disconnected to avoid eventual nozzle problem. I asked for 10 cm extrusion severals times, and the results were as follows (distance in mm):
Ratio is *Transmission ratio E*, that I found in **Control** -\> **Motion** -\> **Transmission ratio** -\> **Transmission ratio E**.
I don't understand these results. The initial ratio change should have corrected the under-extrusion. Returning to 93 should also have given me the same result as initially.
I didn't use any G-code, I just used the printer panel (for both ratio changing & asking for extrusion).
I followed this video, How TO Calibrate The Esteps On A Direct Drive Extruder The EASY Way!
and used this EStep Calculator – V1.1.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Thanks to @kosteklvp's instructions in commentary, I was able to correctly calibrate my extruder.
Using a third-party app (octoprint via raspberry pi in my case) gave me more flexibility with settings.
Following @kosteklvp's proposed procedure (at this link) allowed me to achieve my calibration.
I still have other troubles while printing, but no more related to my extruder.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, extrusion, calibration
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thread-15745 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15745 | Options for making Ender 3 v2 fans quieter | 2021-02-26T03:15:10.800 | # Question
Title: Options for making Ender 3 v2 fans quieter
I have had my Ender 3 v2 for just over two months and have had a blast working with it. I have printed some mods to personalize it.
One of the things that I have done to help mitigate the vibrational noise is to place my Ender 3 on a concrete paver that sits on top of 3 inches of upholstery foam. This has made a huge difference.
With the vibration noise down, now I can hear the fan on the extruder like never before.
Both fans are listed as "brushless" EFS-04D24L; of course, they look different in the pictures below:
What options are there to help reduce the fan noise? I wasn't sure if a baffle or enclosure would help. Or would it be easier to replace the fans with quieter ones?
# Answer
> 3 votes
There are companies making fans with blade design based on owl wings to make the blades quieter. Here's an example https://www.moduflow.co.uk/owlet-fans/ and I've seen other designs. I don't know which design ended up being the quietest. First, you would need to find out who makes these fans the right size and flow rate for you, then try to find out which is quietest.
Here is another example: https://www.bequiet.com/en/casefans/718
# Answer
> 1 votes
I saw lot of mods out there, but after study the problem I can say that I've resolved with not much effort.
The stock fans are good, but they are 24v due to PSU that is 24v and add a dc-dc converter make everything more complicated and rise costs.
So those are my mods easy and effective.
On hot end a Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm still 24v but rated for 21db. You have to build a custom fan holder to achieve 4020 fan.
On motherboard and PSU I've left stock fans but added two mianiture Mini-360 dc-dc bucks. You can regulate the voltage between 12-15v and choose the noise you prefer. The fans are still fast to move good airflow inside PSU and mainboard.
PSU on Ender 2 V2 Neo has a black cover with small holes, it's way restrictive, it's better to remove this cover or enlarge holes or cut a big hole with 50mm cupsaw.
If you remove the whole cover you can print my small cover for the high tension cables.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6015148
# Answer
> 0 votes
Fans driven by brushless (BLDC or BL) motors<sup>1</sup> are the quieter option (when compared to cheaper brushed motors).
Mounting the fans using rubber anti-vibration standoffs/mounts<sup>2</sup>, instead of bolts, would also reduce vibration (and hence noise).
Or, failing that, if using bolts, at least use rubber washers/grommets, between the fan case and the frame/mount (maybe on both sides - frame side and bolt head side).
A baffle or enclosure *would* reduce the noise, but would also reduce airflow, which may not be desirable, and even detrimental to the cooling, and longevity of the electronics (assuming your fans are cooling a RAMPS board, or whatever).
Alternatively (and I don't necessarily recommend these courses of action):
* Put up with the noise. After a while, you'll get used to it, or become sufficiently deaf, so as not to hear it so much;
* Try to reduce the *number* of fans somehow. Maybe use passive cooling more - using larger heatsinks on active electronic devices maybe remove the requirement for a fan altogether.
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### Footnotes
<sup>1</sup> Also known as electronically commutated (EC) motor and synchronous DC motors. Source: Wikipedia
<sup>2</sup> Also known as pin, rivet, nipple, peg, etc.
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Tags: creality-ender-3
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thread-20863 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20863 | Creating 3D printed individual LED diffuse covers | 2023-04-24T00:59:31.103 | # Question
Title: Creating 3D printed individual LED diffuse covers
What kind of 3D printer (filament vs resin) and what kind of filament is recommended for individual LED diffusing?
The issue is that I am using a WS2812B-2020 LEDs (2mm x 2mm) so the size of my prints are quite tiny.
I am looking for a semi-opaque/frosted finish like on an LED strip diffuser.
For reference, I found a Youtube video which uses a regular filament printer with 0% infill, LED Mood Lamp:
# Answer
If you want *just* covers - thin surfaces - then the printer choice doesn't matter. FDM with textured bed will give you neatly textured surface on the first layer (so if you print them upside-down, which would be the intuitive observation, that will be the outer surface), but in either case you can achieve the matte finish with some sandpaper.
Also, you don't even need transparent filament, just make the "diffuser surface" 1-2 layers thick and LEDs will shine through just fine, through any not-too-dark filament, if a little dim. You can even integrate the pockets in the chassis, printing everything in one go, most of chassis thick, "LED windows" 1-2 layers thin, no multiple materials, no multiple parts needed.
The case is different if you want fibre optic guides for the lights - LEDs located a good distance from where the glow is expected to appear. That requires high internal transparency and smooth surface to guide the reflections. In that case resin is vastly superior, allowing for truly transparent prints - FDM will create a bunch of imperfections at layer interface.
OTOH there is a technique - print just the small diffuser, then use heat to weld a piece of the transparent filament to the back side of it, bend the filament to shape (using heat) to fit the LED-diffuser path, then polish the end surface (where it takes the LED light in) to smooth finish. Unprocessed filament like that acts as decent optic fibres.
> 3 votes
# Answer
My suggestion here is that you should work with a 3D printer that operates with powdered material, even if it is expensive. You can take a look at this link, Ultrasint PP 3D Printer Powder, for some ideas.
The printing material you will use will emit a much smoother light within the LED as it is printed in very thin layers.
The cube in this photograph has been made using the sintering technique, and the material used is PA2200. We printed with a powder 3D printer that we use in my company.
> 1 votes
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Tags: filament, resin, print-material, filament-choice
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thread-20932 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20932 | Leveling a printer bed using the FEP in the tank? | 2023-05-11T12:12:32.247 | # Question
Title: Leveling a printer bed using the FEP in the tank?
The gold standard for levelling the bed on a resin printer seems to be using a sheet of paper.
Is there any reason why is can't be done by lowering the bed to home while the FEP tank is in place and leveling it there?
I'm specifically thinking of the Elegoo Saturn, where the bed is levelled by undoing two bolts and moving it to home, and then tightening the bolts.
For situations where everything is covered with wet resin and you don't want to have to clean everything up or to risk getting resin on your glass. Not for everyday levelling.
# Answer
> -1 votes
This method has a limited lifespan in solvent printers.
Its purpose is to achieve proper and optimal clearance to obtain suitable organs and structures.
It appears to be easier to adjust the FEP reservoir while it is fixed.
However, the issues present here can be more significant.
Any force that creates pressure on the FEP can result in punctures or leaks.
Printing with such qualities resembling this kind of problem can cause inferior prints.
I can recommend a clean cloth and a medium-soft brush as the simplest options for you. These will be sufficient for cleaning. If they are not enough for you, you can use some isopropyl alcohol.
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Tags: bed-leveling
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thread-20936 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20936 | How to print the outer contour before inner lines with Cura? | 2023-05-11T21:41:56.253 | # Question
Title: How to print the outer contour before inner lines with Cura?
I would like to print the outer contour without extraction, and after that print the straight lines between the contour. I attached a picture how Cura does the slicing. It does several extractions from the outer contour to print the straight lines.
Is there a setting so that Cura slices so that the outer wall is done first, without extractions and finally does the straight lines in between?
I am not looking for "vase mode", but almost. I would prefer a nice outer contour.
# Answer
> 1 votes
As far as I understand Cura, you can't. It optimizes the path, this isn't always how we would think or like it to be.
To fix this, you'll need to write your own G-code, for such a simple geometry this should be very doable if you have some programming skills. It is printing an elliptical shape with cross lines, the latter all having a little offset from the previous layer.
---
With limited programming skils you could also achieve some success. When the current sliced G-code is inspected in e.g. an online G-code interpreter/visiulizer, you could extract the correct path for the elliptical circumference (cutting out/move the parts that break the printing of the circumference as a whole) to ensure continuity of printing the outer elliptical shell. Note that you need to take care of the `E` parameter in the code as this must be reset e.g. using (`G92`)\[https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:\_Set\_Position\] to the correct starting point for extrusion. Once obtained you have a continuous printing code for the outer shell. Now you need to add the cross line paths to be placed after a move to the correct position. It would be beneficial to have the formula of the elliptical shape to determine the length of the cross line and the position it needs to start, otherwise you need to move the cross line printed parts here. This may be a lot of work to achieve.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing
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thread-20933 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20933 | How can we calculate the build time of FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling)? | 2023-05-11T14:01:12.053 | # Question
Title: How can we calculate the build time of FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling)?
I am currently working on my research project in the field of additive manufacturing, specifically focusing on estimating the build time of FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling). As part of my work, I am seeking guidance on how to calculate or estimate the build time for FDM processes. I would like to understand the equation or methodology used to determine the build time, particularly for both a single part and decomposed parts. Additionally, I am interested in knowing how to calculate the number of decomposed parts in the build process. If possible, I would appreciate insights into any specific factors or considerations that should be taken into account when calculating the build time, such as material properties, printer settings, or part geometry. Any references, recommended literature, or personal experiences related to this topic would be highly valuable to my research. Thank you in advance for your time and expertise. I look forward to learning from your insights and contributions.
# Answer
The time estimation of the typical slicer operates the following way:
* First, the model is cut into layers, as demanded by the slicer.
* Each layer is solved for its perimeters, infill, and required movement between them, resulting in a very long and complex path that the print head will follow. This is by the way the longest part of slicing.
* The length of all paths is multiplied by the speed for each path type, and the times for each segment are added up. Technically, the speed needs to be a term including the 1st and 2nd derivate of the speed (acceleration and jerk), as well as the set max speed, but in older programs, those are often skipped, resulting in a gross underestimation of print times but much faster computation.
+ These durations are added up per layer, so that the next operation can be performed properly.
* Then, if a layer has a shorter time than the minimum time, a pause is added into the code at the appropriate place, bringing that layer to the minimum duration.
* Finally, all the layer times are added up, resulting in an estimated print time.
Generally, there is no way to estimate the time for heating up the printer to running temperatures, so those times are generally not accounted for in the print time estimates either.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: fdm, printer-building
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thread-20860 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20860 | Inner layers separating specially on the top | 2023-04-22T17:52:12.023 | # Question
Title: Inner layers separating specially on the top
I've been facing an issue with my 3d printer for the past couple of months: My inner layers are not sticking together when I print something vertically.
I'm trying to print white PLA at 200ºC with the following Cura settings on an Ender 5 Pro:
Here's the result:
I've tampered with my settings a bit, but still, it doesn't seem to make any difference. I'm pretty convinced it's a setting issue... Any idea?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Make sure to check your temperature sensors. Examine their position and ensure they are in the correct place (no shifting or bending). Lastly, if you have made any changes in the filament brand or model, you may have encountered this issue. Filaments that have been exposed to air or have become stale do not produce reliable prints.
# Answer
> 1 votes
## You did not mention your line width...
From the print effects I do reckon that you are printing your model with a line width of 0.4 mm from a 0.4 mm nozzle. Due to the physical properties of different filaments, this can result in lines that are actually more narrow than demanded, resulting in delamination of walls like shown.
To work against all those problems, it is usually best to demand the printer to print lines about 10 % wider than the nozzle, e.g. 0.45 mm.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, creality-ender-5, delamination
--- |
thread-20938 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20938 | Model is cut off when printing despite showing correctly on slicer | 2023-05-11T22:18:46.003 | # Question
Title: Model is cut off when printing despite showing correctly on slicer
My printer is the Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo printer. Firmware is factory new.
You can see the problem below: As you see, the long rectangle on the bottom is getting cut off when printed. Outline shown in red shows the path the printer is really taking. *(you can ignore the gray area, it is only there because both long rectangles are part of the same .stl file)*
Here is another view of the sliced print:
Additionally, you can see in this other picture:
* The print started quite a bit from the left edge
* The start G-code, which prints lines on the left, printed lines closer to the left edge than where the print started
Here is the start G-code:
```
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ;
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
```
Slicer settings:
How can I fix this? Is this due to the slicer? Due to the firmware? In either case, how do I change it?
# Answer
If I look at the printed middle rectangle, it appears that the printer is printing way too far to the right, or, your slicer used an incorrect bed size.
You should look into question How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset) or Recalibrating Home-position to center the print area and try to re-print the object again. Furthermore, as far as can be interpreted from the low res images, your printer may need some better leveling as some parts are too high and some too low.
> 2 votes
# Answer
## Your firmware and slicer operate on different sizes.
You need to update the firmware to update the bed size (and the 0-Offset) from the factory setting to the actual size. There is no way to alter the Maximum sizes via a direct connection.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting
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thread-20823 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20823 | Diagnosing sudden problem with hotend temperature | 2023-04-12T20:25:28.247 | # Question
Title: Diagnosing sudden problem with hotend temperature
I'm using a 65W heater cartridge and T-D500 type NTC thermistor. This setup has been working fine since I installed it sometime last year. Suddenly today, the temperature reading started jumping around 5-25° below the set temperature, but only while printing. It holds temperature solid at idle, and PID autotune produces numbers like normal.
How should I go about diagnosing what component is bad? Is it necessarily the cartridge or thermistor (or rather their wiring) or could it be noise or voltage instability or something else?
# Answer
This isn't a complete diagnostic procedure, but what worked for me.
After asking around and thinking about the magnitude of the fluctuations, a bad heater cartridge or bad connection to the heater cartridge didn't make a lot of sense, even at 25 mm³/s flow and over 300 °C where I was experiencing the problems. To try to confirm this, I went back and tried a print at 250 °C. I also measured the cartridge resistance and found it about 1 ohm high (underperforming) but this was nowhere near enough to explain any problems.
Since the thermistor seemed the most likely culprit, I then disassembled the toolhead to check its mounting and possibly replace it. It was still firmly mounted, and had no visible damage to the wiring, which is protected by a spring coil. Since my block has an attachment point for the glass bead style thermistor too, I found my original Creality-issue one of those and attached it too. After putting things back together and switching configuration to accept the old thermistor, I was able to make test prints without the rapidly fluctuating temperature readings. Over 300, there's still some fluctuation, but that seems to be accounted for by the very low resistance (and thereby low measurement precision) the 100k has at these temperatures, where 1 ohm is more than a 5 °C difference and the ADC resolution is only something like 1/16 of an ohm.
So, it seems to be a bad thermistor.
Update: After limping along for a good while on the 100k NTC thermistor bead, I finally disassembled everything to replace the T-D500, and immediately found the culprit. The wires to thermistor are not a single piece, but were sloppily solder-joined and heat-shrink-wrapped by the vendor(/reseller?) a few centimeters from the thermistor. This exact point in my wire harness was somewhat strained at the point where it exited between the hotend enclosure and extruder body, and apparently suffered a hairline crack that fell apart completely during disassembly:
To make it easier to switch thermistors in the future if I need to, and since I was needing to learn crimping, I put JST-XH connectors on both sides where it was broken, and shifted the junction to sit inside the enclosure but away from the heater block. It's now fully operational again, and the replacement I purchased is still sitting in its bag as a spare.
> 1 votes
# Answer
## Well, it could be a bad thermosensor...
Bad Thermosensors do show themselves in multiple ways, among them fluctuating their readings before fully failing.
## Thermosensors have ranges
Every thermosensor comes with a range for which it actually can operate reliably. For example, the TS2289 is rated for -40 to 90 °C, and thus would be not usable for a 3D printer at all, while TS2452 is rated for -100 to 600 °C.
The glass bead sensor on a Creality Ender3 is a *ntc 100k thermistor*. That is only a class, and it contains multiple entries. This is not actually a specific sensor but a class that contains multiple sensors. For example, *NTC 3950* is listed as -40 to 300 °C, which means it might be *barely useable* in that area, yet there might be larger fluctuations than normal as the resolution at the ends of the measuring range gets higher. In about the same dimensions, you might however also get a very similar sensor like thos from the Datasheet of the NTC Type BR Series. This document lists BR11/14/16/25 with a ceiling of 200 °C and B32/42/55 with a ceiling of 300 °C, all of which are in a very similar size range.
Not all sensors are glass-bead style, like the standard e3D v6 Thermosensor cartridge, which is listed as a Semitec 104NT thermistor the ceiling listed as 300 °C, but the same form factor also fits other cartridges. The sensor listed by e3D actually does come as a glass bead style too, listed as -50 to 300 °C
Such other sensors might be PT100B or PT1000 are claimed to accurately work up to 450 °C and might operate reliably even at 500 °C. A similar E3D Thermosensor is the PT100, and would also operate fine in that range.
Simply put: to reliably print at those high temperatures, you might want to change the thermosensor for a type that actually does operate reliably in those high-temperature areas.
## P.S.
<sup>I do not use the word thermistor (or thermocouple) here, because those describe specific types of sensor. The more generic term Thermosensor describes **anything** from a simple thermometer, over thermistors and thermocouples to an IR sensor.</sup>
> 0 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, hotend, thermistor, thermal-runaway
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thread-7960 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7960 | How to clean up my build plate for a new build surface? | 2019-01-12T15:45:14.487 | # Question
Title: How to clean up my build plate for a new build surface?
My ender3 came with a BuildTak-clone surface, and as I was a little too vigorous in getting the print off the bed (I had failed to level right and printed a bit too tight to the bed, resulting in SUPER strong adhesion), I needed to replace it.
Peeling off the black was easy. The plastic sheet that held the glue was easy too... but how to clean up the bed to get the residue glue off and prepare for the new 3M sticker?
# Answer
In my experience, we deal with 3M™ Adhesive Transfer Tape 468MP; high-temperature glue residue. To remove the leftover glue from my Aluminium build plate I found that it works best if I apply paint thinner.
I ran out of acetone for one refurbishment so I tried thinner and white (cleaning) spirit; the latter option did not work well. However, thinner worked very well. I got a bottle of "thinner" at the hardware store's house brand and found it to be more aggressive stuff than turpentine or acetone. I had tried those latter 2 but found that "thinner" works best.
Putting the thinner fluid on paper cloth directly to clean the glue did not work well. I applied the thinner directly onto the glue (splash it on), waited for a while to let it soak in to weaken the bonds after which you can remove it with a spatula and kitchen paper towel.
The exact contents of paint thinners are not always available but they contain various hydrocarbons.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Cleaning up the aluminium build platform was rather easy in a three step process as I figured out:
### Preparation
Get the old bed-surface off and any film layers that stick to the original glue. Don't bother to try to scrape off the glue, it is wasted time.
### Solvent
To remove the sticker's residue, I first tried heat and 70% isopropyl alcohol (aka isopropanol, 2-propanol), which was not very effective.
What did prove effective was nail-polish remover on the base of **acetone**. It worked like a charm to turn the sticky film into easily removable, goopy clumps. With small doses and a lot of rubbing/massaging it into the residue and careful use of the scraper, all the glue was gone after about half to three-quarters of an hour of work.
In subsequent replacement, I used **paint thinner**, which is more effective in goopifying the glue and allowing to scrape it off much faster. 10 minutes max.
### Cleanup
After applying the generous amounts of nail polish remover, I thought that it might be best to get any of the additives that were meant to protect the skin off the bed - as well as the slight blue coloring - before applying the new tape. So I gave the aluminium a good wipe down with isopropanol.
In subsequent replacements I used ethanol 98 % to clean the bed before applying, just to make sure no fingerprints or glue residue creates bumps.
Applying the new bed surface was easy afterwards, and after a quick bed leveling, the printer runs like a charm again.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Following up from Charles Duffy's comment, I can confirm that adhesive remover containing D-limonene is an effective way of removing remaining glue when replacing an Ender-3 platform sticker. While “Goo Gone” was named in the comment, I used a similar product, Goo Buster.
Goo Buster turned the glue residue into a water soluble gel that was easily removed using a plastic scraper, with final clean up using a wet paper towel. While D-Limonene has a pleasant citrus fragrance, it is an irritant, and these adhesive removers typically also contain petroleum products and surfactants.
As ever, use care when using solvents near electrical devices such as 3D printers. Ensure the device is isolated from power and all parts are clean and dry before operating.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, replacement-parts, repair
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thread-20841 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20841 | With remesh tool in Meshmixer; What happens to the details of the model? | 2023-04-17T07:48:21.847 | # Question
Title: With remesh tool in Meshmixer; What happens to the details of the model?
I have an organic but more complex STL model. It is so detailed and every detail is important to us.
We have a remesh tool in Meshmixer. It says:
> With Meshmixer, you can create an even tessellation using the Remesh command. Click the Select Icon in the menu and click to create an area to be remeshed, or use Ctrl + A to select the entire object. On the Popup menu, click Edit → Remesh or hit R.
Question: When applying this tool to my STL model, does it happen that any detail will be gone off? Or, will I get same complex model?
# Answer
> 2 votes
While doing this, you may encounter the loss of details. To avoid this, precise settings must be made. For example,
* Adaptive Size: This option can be used to configure large surfaces and preserve small details.
* Detail Smoothing :With this process, a more detailed examination of the surface is checked. This option must be enabled.
* Target Triangle Count:It is used to increase the number of triangles that will divide the surface as the mesh operation is repeated. Using this, the more triangles we can cover the surface, the more detailed information can be obtained.
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Tags: stl, meshmixer
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thread-20703 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20703 | STL exported through Blender not watertight | 2023-03-18T23:04:13.023 | # Question
Title: STL exported through Blender not watertight
I created a box in Blender and exported that into an STL file and it seems to be failing to render the correct walls. The box looks like this:
But when I open it in Cura, it looks like this:
Is there something I'm exporting incorrectly or something else I'm missing?
# Answer
> 3 votes
This may be related to a characteristic of the numerous slicers methods of handling single thickness walls. If your model's wall is of insufficient width, it "ceases to exist" in the slicer. Ultimaker's community forum has a reference that may be of value, second post to the linked page:
> This is known. It's a limitation of how Cura calculates these things: Your model outline is inset by half the line width. If anything remains, it is printed with the normal line width. If nothing remains, only the "Print Thin Walls" option may still save you. If two lines overlap a lot, then one of the two will have its extrusion rate reduced to prevent overextrusion. You'll ooze some filament there but hopefully not too much since there is a backpressure from the earlier printed line.
According to that same forum (and likely other locations on the internet), there is a setting for "print thin walls" that may solve the problem. The original poster discovered that it did not, for his model and had to increase wall thickness in the design software.
# Answer
> 0 votes
To me the resulting print pattern reminds me of a common error with blender: the model contains either no volume, not enough volume as noted by fred\_dot\_u or the surfaces are inverted.
Further reading to fix your model:
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Tags: 3d-models, stl
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thread-20880 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20880 | Increase the measuring points on Ender 3 S1 Pro | 2023-04-27T09:01:18.177 | # Question
Title: Increase the measuring points on Ender 3 S1 Pro
I have a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro with the factory board and firmware. Is there any option to increase the number of leveling points? Since it is not an open Marlin code, I have no access to the firmware source to modify it.
# Answer
No, you need to change this in the firmware. It has to be changed, built and uploaded. Marlin is a free firmware, and there are lots of tutorials, forks and configurations for the Ender 3 S1 Pro to use as a start. We even have a rough step by step guide for working on that.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3
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thread-20908 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20908 | Set Model as Support - Support Settings? | 2023-05-06T09:33:11.067 | # Question
Title: Set Model as Support - Support Settings?
I am currently trying to print an object, "model A", together with another object, "model B", that I want to use solely as a support structure. Regarding Ultimaker, I can set "model B" in **Per model settings** to **Print as support**; so far so good.
However, I can't figure out how to adjust the settings for the support; which pattern, if it has a support interface, etc. Am I doing something wrong?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I think I figured this out:
In Cura 5.1 (probably all 5.x) set "model B" to **Modify settings for overlaps**, instead of **Print as support**.
Choose **Cutting mesh** in the dropdown and select the relevant settings. I chose **Generate Support**, **Support Overhang Angle**, **Support Z Distance**, **Support Roof Thickness**, and **Support Floor Thickness**.
Enable **Generate Support** for "model B".
Slice and see if it fits your needs. I found that it didn't and it seems to inherit settings that can't be set per model from the general settings. As I didn't want to print support for the other model(s) I simply enabled support for the entire build, changed the settings I wanted changed for my "model B", and then disabled support for the entire build.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, support-structures
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thread-19493 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19493 | Is it possible to send/receive serial messages from/to Ender 3 mainboards (not USB!)? | 2022-06-03T19:04:49.130 | # Question
Title: Is it possible to send/receive serial messages from/to Ender 3 mainboards (not USB!)?
I want to connect an Arduino or similar MCU board to an Ender 3 mainboard and make them communicate. I don't want to use USB. Are there any pins on the controller boards to achieve this?
I found in the Marlin G-code reference the `M118` (serial print) command, this is ideal for my need, but I don't know to catch its serial messages on the mainboard.
# Answer
> 3 votes
You can solder cables to the RX, TX and GND pins on the mainboard.
There are tutorials on Youtube that describe this.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, electronics, arduino, serial-connection
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thread-20957 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20957 | terrible quality on Ender 3 | 2023-05-17T03:33:48.870 | # Question
Title: terrible quality on Ender 3
Sorry this is kind to embarrassing to post compared to other images but this is our first attempts. It starts out roughly acceptable then does this waffle thing. I tightened the belts and leveled the plate.
I have a Creality Ender 3 which I use together with UltiMaker Cura slicer. I print in PLA at 220 °C. The print bed is set to 70 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 60 %. The layer height I set to 0.\[?\] mm, the line width \[line width/extrusion width\] from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to ? mm/s for walls and \[?\] mm/s for infill\]. My retraction is \[?\] mm/off at \[?\] mm/s.
Problem seems to be solved, thanks everyone. I dropped the temperature to 200 and fan speed to 100% and print looks much better.
# Answer
> 2 votes
This is a severe under extrusion problem.
What slicer are you using? It could be a filament diameter setting issue.
Are you using Cura? I don't know about the most recent version but older versions defaulted to 2.85 mm filament diameter which is the diameter the Ultimaker printers use (as Cura is developed by Ultimaker) but the Ender 3 uses 1.75 mm diameter filament.
Have a look at this question where a similar issue is discussed.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You've probably checked this already but offering a basic issue I've had before on my Ender 3 with the filament not unraveling cleanly from the spool hanger (gets caught on the post or bound up on itself).
When this happens it would produce a similar result to your picture...started fine and then turned into wispy/burnt layers before ending entirely.
When this has happened I just need to untangle the filament, clean the nozzle, cut a clean starting point on the filament, and empty the Bowden tube of the old filament.
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Tags: creality-ender-3
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thread-20965 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20965 | How to improve flat, large areas over supports | 2023-05-18T08:18:46.470 | # Question
Title: How to improve flat, large areas over supports
I have a similar issue like this one. I'm using Cura 5.3.1, a Dremel 3D45 and PLA+ by eSun. The printings are almost perfect and repeatable. The only issue is about flat and large areas over supports.
Like the user of the linked question, I have no problem to remove the supports and they don't leave anything bad on the upper layer. Furthermore I enabled the bridge feature, and even more longer gaps (than the support density) print very nice.
Here a picture:
As you can see, the small trenches are clean, while the large box in the middle is awful. The supports have a density of 8 mm with the zig-zag pattern. As said before, even without support I can print very good gaps longer than 30 mm.
To have an idea of the dimensions, the hole has a diameter of 15 mm, and the larger rectangle is 60x45 mm.
# Answer
> 1 votes
As you mentioned, there are zigzag patterned supports here, but your area is wide and flat, which can sometimes cause printing errors. You can get better results if you try to print your settings by trying one of the grid pattern or rectilinear pattern options.
They have more points of contact than a zigzag pad and leave less roughness in the area under the printed part.
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, pla, support-structures, dremel-3d45
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thread-14811 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14811 | Cleaning the nozzle every Xth layer G-code | 2020-11-15T14:37:11.300 | # Question
Title: Cleaning the nozzle every Xth layer G-code
I want to make a G-code script for Cura to clean the nozzle every Xth layer or every one minute?
With Cura there is only start and end G-code, so there is no "layer change" G-code like another slicer (e.g. Ideamaker).
Where should I write the code?
How can I define the Layer number?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Cura now has a **setting "Wipe Nozzle Between Layers"**, located in the Experimental settings group. it requires the installation of a wipe brush or wipe surface that is fixed to the x axis at a certain x position and moves with it the y and z directions. You can find suitable 3D printable nozzle brush holders for most 3D printers.
It does more or less exactly what you are looking for, just that you do not specify nozzle cleaning intervals "every Xth layer or every one minute" as you want but by print volume – see sub-setting "Material Volume Between Wipes". B setting this to a very small value, you can however force a wipe after every single layer, as that is the hardcoded maximum number of wipes that this setting will generate.
For a good article explaining the setting in depth, see "Cura Wipe Nozzle Between Layers" by Martin Lütkemeyer.
# Answer
> 0 votes
There are extensions for Cura that can do almost what you want to do for you (with respect to the layer or height).
You need to add post-processing scripts to the Cura slicer. You do that from the top menu options `Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-Code` and then add the option of choice.
E.g. for an event at every layer change you should use script "*Insert at layer change*" and fill out the G-code you want to perform.
There are options to write your own extension, but that would require some software development skills.
Optionally, you could use the "ChangeAtZ" script to add absurd temperature changes of the extruder to post process that later by a simple e.g. Python script (outside Cura) to replace those actions with the cleaning actions you want to perform. But, when you can do that, you could write a script outside Cura to detect the layers (e.g. from the comments or from the layer change command `G1 Zxx`) and insert that right away.
For inserting this on the basis of time would be very difficult, it is difficult to estimate the time printing actions take to then inject such a script.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code
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thread-6321 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6321 | What do you call this effect in 3D printing and how can I remove it? | 2018-07-08T08:15:58.327 | # Question
Title: What do you call this effect in 3D printing and how can I remove it?
I have a Bowden extruder in my printer setup. Everything works great except this effect which must be related with retraction and is generated on Z layer change:
The model itself, is printed in one layer perimeter / outline shell, with 0.25 mm layer height with the following settings:
# Answer
What you see on the outer surface is called "zits and blobs".
These small imperfections you experience are "zits" (larger ones are referred to as blobs). As the extruder needs to start and stop as it moves around during a print, it is difficult to create a seamless joint, so the over-extruded filament represents the location where the extruder started (or ended) printing a section of the outer perimeter of your print model. Sometimes it returns to the same spot in a single extrusion run, in other cases the perimeter is constructed of multiple sections.
It is possible to do something to minimize the effects depending on the slicer you use, but the general solution is to prevent too much plastic being deposited at either the start or the end of that seam. E.g. incorrect retraction settings may cause too much plastic to be extruded at the start, and pressure build-up in the nozzle may cause an excess of plastic to be extruded, both lead to the imperfections you experience. First you have to find out which of the two effects is happening with your prints. Once identified, you can play with settings like retraction, priming, and coasting to counteract on these imperfections. A more detailed description can be found here.
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***Edit****: Please read the addition posted in the comment by @Trish; the comment describes that this may also be related to over-extrusion!*
> 4 votes
# Answer
Your **retraction-related setting "Extra Restart Distance"** = 0.12 mm could be the cause of your issue, by using a too-high value.
I don't know which slicer you use, but it seems that this setting is the equivalent of "Retraction Extra Prime Amount" in Cura, there explained as follows:
> Some material can ooze away during a travel move, which can be compensated for here.
So if retraction happens on layer changes in your case, then this setting could be too high, leading to the observed zits.
Indeed your value is quite high. It is equivalent to $\pi \times (\frac{1.75 mm}{2})^2 \times 0.12 mm = 0.29 mm^3$ (assuming 1.75 mm filament). Each of your zits is roughly a half cylinder of 0.6 mm in diameter and 0.35 mm in height, so $0.5 \times \pi \times (\frac{0.6 mm}{2})^2 \times 0.35 mm = 0.05 mm^3$. It is easy to imagine that your 0.29 mm<sup>3</sup> extra prime amount could be too much by 0.05 mm<sup>3</sup>.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, bowden
--- |
thread-20973 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20973 | Gaps in infill only - walls are perfect | 2023-05-19T20:28:16.370 | # Question
Title: Gaps in infill only - walls are perfect
I'm printing for the first times on my new Sovol SV04, using their PLA @ 210 °C (after printing a temp tower).
The walls and top layers are almost perfect, but the infill has a lot of gaps between layers:
I'm not sure which parameter needs to be tuned, since the walls are ok and I'm afraid to make a mess...
What could cause this behavior?
# Answer
The infill speed might be set too high, but it's possible this is just some of the normal badness of self-intersecting infill like "grid" and "triangles". If you notice, these patterns have the extrusion path cross back over itself once or twice at the same points. Hitting this barrier of material already being there when the nozzle gets to it causes a rapid spike then drop in backpressure in the nozzle, and tends to make material push upward around the sides, and then underextrude right after the intersection point. This could be the cause of what you're seeing.
If so, there are several possible ways to improve the situation:
* Use a non-self-intersecting infill pattern like gyroid.
* Print the infill slower. The effect is lessened by slower motion.
* Print hotter. I'm not sure why this works, but it does. It might help re-melt the intersection point when slamming through it, or it might just make flow more consistent and less susceptible to the pressure swing.
If this isn't the issue, other things to check for:
* That flow % for infill hasn't been turned down in slicing settings.
* That your infill speed times line width times layer height (in units if mm³/s) is within the flow capabilities of your hotend and extruder.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, pla, infill
--- |
thread-20896 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20896 | FlashForge Adventurer 3 cooling fan making grinding sound | 2023-05-03T11:46:34.720 | # Question
Title: FlashForge Adventurer 3 cooling fan making grinding sound
Ever since I got this printer for my 15th birthday the cooling fan has made a grinding sound when the nozzle was near the wall. I thought it was just the clear wall vibrating but now when I start a print it makes the sound all the time and it's getting really annoying. How can I fix this?
# Answer
> 4 votes
I got a used Artillery Hornet back in December 2022 and whenever it began heating up the nozzle it would make noises like those of a jet engine. It was crazy. It needed some maintenance.
***Important:** Please **unplug your printer** before cleaning it. It "being off" isn't enough. Safety first at all times.*
What I did was check every fan the printer has, so the ones on the carriage (in the hornet I had three next to the heating block) but also in the power source, and make sure they were completely clean from dust bunnies/cat hair/anything else. You'll see how it accumulates on the edge of the blades. You can collect the fluff with tweezers, then use a cotton swab with isopropyl alcohol in case there's some stubborn dirt left you need to gently scrub off.
Afterwards I added a tiny droplet of graphite grease on the little hole they have on the back; sometimes it's covered with a sticker, in that case peel it off to access said hole. Don't go overboard of course, just a tiny drop is enough. Spin it a little to make sure the lubricant is spread evenly.
Reassemble everything, plug the printer and try heating up the nozzle again to check for results.
I would try this before checking for more involved things like software issues. You'd be surprised at how much of a difference the regular cleaning and lubrication of your printer makes.
# Answer
> 3 votes
If you want, check your fan. There might be something stuck inside. You can clean it with a soft toothbrush. Take a look at the fan blades as well. Sometimes they can get bent. If the fan is spinning at a high speed, you can check the area where it's mounted. It may not be securely in place. Also, these kinds of issues can sometimes be software- related. Make sure to update your printer with any available updates.
---
Tags: print-fan, flashforge-adventurer-3
--- |
thread-19617 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19617 | Configuring Marlin 2.x with Ender 3 4.2.2 and BLTouch | 2022-07-02T05:08:49.173 | # Question
Title: Configuring Marlin 2.x with Ender 3 4.2.2 and BLTouch
I bought an Ender 3 recently and it has the 4.2.2 Creality board. Then I bought a BLTouch to upgrade it with bed leveling. It turns out that the BLTouch now comes with a standard 5-pin connector instead of the separate wires that all the tutorials talk about. How do I install the thing?
# Answer
> 14 votes
The BLTouch now comes with a standard 5-pin connector.
and that connector is supported on the board that seems to be shipping with Ender 3s these days, the Creality 4.2.2 board (Notice it's in the bottom right and says BL\_T next to it)
This is intended to make installing things easier. Since I also had a new hotend I was installing, I needed to go the route of configuring my own firmware. If you don't need that, you can be lazy and snag the pre-built firmware from Creality's website here.
If you, like me, go the route of building your own firmware, there's a lot of steps, and I'm sharing the results of 2 days of effort. To do this, you get to become a software developer for the next few minutes. Follow along carefully, as any misstep could be really really annoying.
1. Download the latest Marlin firmware. Creality already uses Marlin as a base for their firmware, so this is going to be the best choice.
2. Marlin is not preconfigured for your Ender 3, but we can snag the example configurations for an Ender 3 from the Marlin Configuration repository. I went ahead and found you the version for the Ender 3 with a 4.2.2 board here. You're going to want to download all of the files in that directory.
3. Unzip the Marlin firmware to a folder, and in that folder you'll see ANOTHER folder named Marlin. You'll want to copy your configuration files downloaded in STEP 2 into that inner Marlin folder.
4. Now we need Visual Studio Code (told you you get to be a developer). Once you open it, you'll need to install an extension Marlin made for VSCode to allow you to easily build your firmware. The instructions on installing Auto Build Marlin are found here.
5. Now you have a neat little button in VSCode to do stuff with Marlin.
But wait! We're not ready to click that yet. First we need to modify those configuration files you downloaded.
6. First let's update the `Configuration.h` file. There are a lot of important settings here, many you should change, and many that are nice to change, but I'm only going to list the ones that are absolutely necessary to get the BLTouch working.
1. you need to comment out the `Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN` setting, because the your BLTouch is using a different pin.
2. So that we don't lose our Z Homing, we need to then uncomment the setting for `USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING`.
3. And here's the one that I only found on the Creality forums with a lucky search. You need to uncomment `Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN` and set it to `PB1` which is your BLTouch's connection point.
4. Naturally, you'll need to uncomment the setting for `BLTOUCH`.
5. You'll want to adjust the `NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET` to account for the position the BLTouch mounts in. The standard bracket should match close the values I have set below. Notice I didn't set the Z value at all. You should do that on the printer by hand.
6. If you're going to use the BLTouch, you should configure some sort of auto bed leveling. I picked UBL so I uncommented the setting: `AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL`
7. Since you're doing auto bed leveling, you need to turn it on, which you do by uncommenting the setting `ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28`
8. Consider Nice-To-Have values, like `Z_SAFE_HOMING`, `LCD_BED_LEVELING`, `PREHEAT_BEFORE_LEVELING`, `INDIVIDUAL_AXIS_HOMING_MENU` or `PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD` in `Configuration_adv.h`
```
// #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
// Force the use of the probe for Z-axis homing
#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING
...
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN PB1 // Pin 32 is the RAMPS default
...
#define BLTOUCH
...
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -44, -9, 0}
...
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL
...
#define ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
```
7. Finally, you're ready to build. Click on the "Auto Marlin Build" extension, then click "Show ABM Panel".
Marlin should have figured out that you're trying to build for an Ender 3. I honestly don't know what the different environments are for, but the first one seems to work just fine.
8. Once the build completes, there will be a link which will open the folder where the build is. You'll want to get the SD card from your Ender 3 and copy the `.bin` file from that folder onto the root of the SD card. Then stick the SD card in your Ender 3 and power it up and you should see your new Marlin Firmware start up. Then you can start configuring your BLTouch for auto bed leveling.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Don't forget to add
```
M420 S0
```
after the `G28` command in the G-code, else you have to level bed before every print.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, marlin, firmware, bltouch
--- |
thread-20979 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20979 | Trying to print separate models one on top of the other using PrusaSlicer | 2023-05-21T07:08:24.087 | # Question
Title: Trying to print separate models one on top of the other using PrusaSlicer
I'm currently using Cura for one printer (Hellbot Magna SE, essentially an Ender clone) and PrusaSlicer for another (Artillery Hornet).
I first learned this method for multicolored prints with Cura on CHEP's channel since I have had awful accidents with manual filament changes in the past, given that my Hellbot printer doesn't understand the M600 command and I have to use M0 pauses instead. this way works great and gives me a lot of peace of mind since now I can leave the printer unattended for a bit knowing it will finish printing then turn the nozzle and bed off, home on all axes and just sit there idle until I come back and start the next print on top, this one sliced with the corresponding Z Offset value so as to not collide with the one currently sitting on the bed.
I would like to do the same on my Hornet, but I use PrusaSlicer with it since the builtin profile is so much better, and I can't figure out how to do it. I have located the Z Offset setting, but the only way to be able to lift objects from the platter seems to be by making them "parts" of another one, and in that case I lose the option to disable the "Printable" flag that lets me hide the different components of the object so I can slice them and export them as separate files.
> **Note:** While typing this it just occurred to me maybe setting the corresponding Z Offset for the object that goes on top of the one already on the bed *without making it a part* but rather the only thing on the platter might work? Perhaps this isn't necessary for PrusaSlicer to generate the code that I need. I'll test this tomorrow but anything that implies possible collisions will always make me a bit nervous. I will update the question with the result of the test.
Thanks in advance!
# Answer
> 0 votes
I'm gonna answer myself since I tested my hypothesis today. Turns out in PrusaSlicer you don't need to "elevate" the model from the build plate and make it sit on the other model in order to be able to print on top of it. Just the Z Offset option is enough.
Here's what I did:
1. Load the first part that will sit at the bottom.
2. Right click it and Add Part(s). This will be just for reference.
3. Take note of the height of each part (this will be the Z Offset for the next print)
4. Remove all parts and import the files as separate models.
5. Now you can generate separate files for each of them. First one will of course have an offset of 0, next one will have an offset equal to the previous ones' heights, and so on.
As an important note, **only have your bed on for the first print, afterwards always leave it off as this will start to deform the print from below**. I recommend you use glue stick or hairspray to help the adhesion instead.
---
Tags: prusaslicer, multi-material
--- |
thread-20984 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20984 | Is there a simple device that lets filament through in one direction only? | 2023-05-22T10:50:15.713 | # Question
Title: Is there a simple device that lets filament through in one direction only?
When the extruder on my 3D printer goes back and forward, it may pull some filament, unrolling the spool, and then return to a position that causes the filament to drop from the spool, which later causes a tangle.
A perfect solution for this would be to pass the filament through *something* that only lets it go one way, unrolling the spool, but doesn't let it back through.
I have two ideas of how to achieve this, but they both seem overengineered:
1. An extra stepper motor that is synced with the extruder
2. A ratchet bearing with a couple of 3D printed rolls
I suppose my problem is commonly encountered, so maybe there's a simpler solution that I'm missing?
# Answer
For the Prusa line of printers, there is a device known as the MMU in versions 2 and 3 to the best of my understanding. It operates by pulling in the desired color/material to the extruder/hot-end and then retracting it to provide for a color/material change. Operators of this device experience problems similar to yours.
There are third-party creators who have designed models known as buffers. Using the search terms "mmu buffer" results in a number of options, most of which are overkill for your concerns.
Thingiverse search does present what is described as Prusa MMU Mini Buffer MK2 and shows a single filament device providing for "take-up" of the retracted filament.
Image from linked site.
Printables has a similar collection, most of which are also overkill, in my opinion.
I have experienced similar problems, especially with a new, full spool. I have also seen attachments to the axle of the spool holder that places a bar across the flanges of the spool, but am currently unable to locate such a model. My print attempt failed due to modifications I've made to the axle and the model has been binned.
Additionally, I redirected the filament vertically downward on the back of the (enclosed) printer, through a loop of PTFE tubing and upward again to the filament entry point. When the retraction action took place, the filament was pushed rearward but not downward, nor upward, causing no effect on the spool. It's a hack job using cable ties to hold the PTFE tubing to the fan grilles but it works. Unfortunately no photos and it would have to be custom fit to your configuration.
Some of the MMU solutions incorporate a ramped axle holder on which the spool is pulled upward while filament is being extruded, then allowed to roll downward, returning the excess filament to the spool. Depending on your level of irritation, this may not be overkill, as it is a mechanically simple design and appropriately reliable.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament
--- |
thread-20563 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20563 | Extruder motor wiggling | 2023-02-10T20:32:06.823 | # Question
Title: Extruder motor wiggling
I made a successful print before this incident with my Ender 3 S1 running Klipper firmware. After that print, it started not extruding. Well, the motor started wiggling back and forth rapidly. After the prime line, it stopped completely. I thought it might be a problem with Klipper, so I switched back to stock firmware and used a different slicer too. But it is still there. I uploaded a video of it to YouTube:
https://youtube.com/shorts/q-ZLMg6NHng
# Answer
I replaced the cable to the extruder and the extruder motor. Now it works fine.
> 2 votes
# Answer
It looks like your extruder stepper is not sequenced correctly. There are a number of possible causes of this.
Basically, the stepper has four (?) poles that must be sequenced in order to make it turn. If you sequence them out of order, it will go back and forth instead of turning in one direction.
The causes for this could be any of:
* The poles are connected to the controller in the wrong order
* One or more of the drivers on the controller is burned out and is being effectively skipped
* The voltage on the controller is too low for the force being applied to the shaft output, causing the motor to jam and steps to be skipped
For an extruder, usually the output shaft is geared down, making the third possibility very unlikely.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-21000 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21000 | Vertical repeating pattern | 2023-05-30T11:04:53.463 | # Question
Title: Vertical repeating pattern
I've got these strange vertical grooves on my print. They are, at some locations well feelable and at some locations they are completely gone. The printer is an Ender 5 Plus or based on it at least. I use a MicroSwiss Dual Gear Bowden extruder instead of the stock one. Are they from the extruder or from the belts? Or something completely different?
# Answer
Are the patterns only visible on opposite sides of the print by any chance? If it is, the problem can be isolated to a specific axis (only X or Y axis in this case)
You could start with the basic checks like belt tension or something else that came loose. maybe even worn out belts.
I've had some (for me at least) unexpected patterns on what should be smooth curves that turned out to be a setting in the export as mesh function in Fusion360. The resolution was set too low so the STL triangles became visible.
I doubt this last option is the problem in your case because the pattern should be visible all along the part so as mentioned before I would start with checking your X and Y axis
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality
--- |
thread-8515 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8515 | Replicator 2x getting too hot with silent stepper drivers | 2019-03-21T08:01:50.997 | # Question
Title: Replicator 2x getting too hot with silent stepper drivers
I equipped my Makerbot Replicator 2x with silent stepper drivers TMC2100. According to the product page I reduced V<sub>ref</sub> from 127 (factory default) to 25 in the printer settings as well as in my start G-code.
With this I get horrible layer shifting (a few millimeters!), even if I reduce print- and travel-acceleration to 300. The layer shifting is mostly happening on the Y-axis, but also on X-axis. Not only layer shifting was happening, also the extruder-motors lost many steps.
To fight this problem I increased the V<sub>ref</sub> little by little. At around 70 for X and Y axis (and 50 for extruders) all layer shift- and extrusion problems were gone. Also I had to install a dedicated fan for the stepper drivers, because they got very hot.
I was happy with this solution for about 10 minutes, then I noticed that the stepper motors are getting so hot I burned my fingertips by touching them. My guess for the motor temperature would be 80~90 °C.
So my question is: Are those TMC2100 stepper driver unsuitable for my usecase somehow or am I missing something? Is there a way to get the 3D printer silent while not overheating?
---
On behalf of advice in the comments, I mounted some heat sinks and measured the temperature via an IR-thermometer. With the old original stepper drivers I get 60 °C for the Y-axis and 66 °C for the X-axis. With TMC2100 it is 86 °C for both. (Each temperature measured at the heatsink)
# Answer
Most Stepper drivers will have lots of energy passing through them so it is crucial to having a moderately sized heatsink to cool them off otherwise they will get too hot. Most stepper drivers found online come with heatsinks but you could search online for mini heatsinks.
> 1 votes
# Answer
What constitutes too hot? A Hybrid stepper motor operating at 80 degrees is normal. They dissipate heat via their mounting plate (which should not be plastic), otherwise you may need to use active cooling. Now if the motors are dying from the heat then you have a problem.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Using stealth chopping and Klipper "interpolation" reduces torque (According to the Klipper configuration documentation). If you turn off both of these options for x and y steppers regardless of what firmware you are using, you may be able to reduce the current and get the same results (avoid layer shifting and get the same torque).
However, see user77232's answer since your motors can likely operate rather hot and be within the normal operating range of the motors. If your current temperature is within range, you may be able to keep stealth chopping on and keep the current you are using. Regarding your concerns for plastic parts, the glass transition temperature of ABS is around 105 degrees C (https://www.lorric.com/en/WhyLORRIC/Material/material-chemical-resistance-chart-ABS#:~:text=Acrylonitrile%20butadiene%20styrene%20(ABS)%20is,has%20no%20true%20melting%20point.) so you're probably OK on that front. If you're concerned that the temperature is higher than 80 C, consider getting a laser thermometer and check the temperature while the printer is operating (and after it has been going for a while).
> 0 votes
---
Tags: makerbot, stepper-driver, heat-management, makerbot-replicator2
--- |
thread-21006 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21006 | Printing with 1 mm nozzle keeps failing | 2023-05-31T15:27:28.450 | # Question
Title: Printing with 1 mm nozzle keeps failing
I'm printing a large print model, but it fails when I use a 1 mm nozzle. When I use the 0.4 mm nozzle, it works fine. What can cause a print to work with a smaller nozzle?
I'm using Cura as my slicer and Neptune 3 Pro (Klipper) as my printer.
Here are screenshots of my Cura settings, 3D model, and one of many failed prints:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/M1xSF5hEZ3zaiKti8
# Answer
> 2 votes
A cursory inspection of your settings shows that you are printing at 75 mm/s and 210 ℃.
If you were printing with a 0.4 mm nozzle and a 0.2 mm layer height, the flow rate will be 75 x 0.4 x 0.2 = 6 mm<sup>3</sup>/s, which is well within the capabilities of a stock MK8 hot end.
However, if you print with a 1 mm nozzle and 0.7 mm layer height, the flow rate will be 75 x 1.0 x 0.7 = 52.5 mm<sup>3</sup>/s, which is well outside a stock hot end's capabilities.
You could try raising the printing temperature and lowering the printing speed, but frankly, a 1 mm nozzle is not really suitable for most FDM printers. A 0.6 mm nozzle should be eminently usable, and you may be able to get away with a 0.8 mm nozzle, if you are prepared to use lower printing speeds.
---
Tags: print-quality, nozzle, elegoo-neptune-3
--- |
thread-20350 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20350 | Creality Ender-3 V2 motors going insane | 2022-12-20T16:15:52.467 | # Question
Title: Creality Ender-3 V2 motors going insane
I recently started using my Ender 3 V2 again because I needed it to print a hook. I went through multiple problems that I could solve by updating the firmware but after starting the print, I heard a very hard noise that made me understand that the stepper motors were going over their limit and, after trying a second time, I saw that every axis was going to +infinite position.
I didn't try much things as I am not comfortable with this but I think it comes from the firmware.
If you have the solution please help me because I can't print anything and I think it damages the printer.
# Answer
It looks like your axes are inverted.
First be sure to get the right configuration file for your marlin version, printer, and control board from the Marlin Github Config page your board shall be CrealityV422 if it is a stock one.
If it is still a problem you can of course invert the axes in the config file:
```
#define INVERT_X_DIR true //or false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true //or false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true //or false
```
> 0 votes
# Answer
If you suspect the firmware isolate it by trying a different build.
Try the MRisCoc professional firmware. It is a fork of Marlin 2 with many extra features. If your machine is unmodified - no BLTouch etc - the current version is
https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20230522/Ender3V2-422-MM-MPC-20230522B.bin
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, extruder, firmware, motor, bug
--- |
thread-21009 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21009 | Octoprint does not detect Serial port of RPi zero | 2023-06-01T18:49:40.480 | # Question
Title: Octoprint does not detect Serial port of RPi zero
I am following the tutorial of Prusa for using Octoprint with my Prusa i3 MK3. I have a Raspbery Pi Zero and I'm using the built-in GPIO pins, not an USB connection.
* Wifi works. I can reach the Raspberry via HTTP and SSH
* I have enabled \[RPi Port\] via the i3 menu
But in the Octoprint website, there's no serial port to select. It just shows "AUTO" and after a while it displays an error message that there's no Serial port found.
Via SSH I can find quite some devices which look like Serial:
* `/dev/serial1`
* `/dev/tty#`, where # is a number
* `/dev/ttyAMA0`
* `/dev/ttyprintk`
I haven't had any issues with Serial connection since 2019 and despite all warnings, the Pi Zero did a great job. However, after the last Octoprint update, Octoprint didn't come up any more, so I did a reinstall from scratch.
I'm using OctoPrint 1.9.0
# Answer
> 3 votes
Neither the tutorial of Prusa nor the Octoprint setup instructions mention this. But it's common Raspberry Pi knowledge, for everyone how experiments with the RPi.
The Serial interface that works over GPIO needs to be activated via
```
sudo raspi-config
```
In the menu, go to "Interface Options" (3), then "Serial Port" (I6). Answer "No" for the login shell and "Yes" for the Serial port hardware. After that, reboot your Raspberry when being asked.
The Octoprint web interface should then detect `/dev/ttyS0` and be able to connect.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, octoprint, serial-connection
--- |
thread-21012 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21012 | Should I calibrate Z-offset so that Z = 0 has the nozzle touching the bed? | 2023-06-03T16:18:02.293 | # Question
Title: Should I calibrate Z-offset so that Z = 0 has the nozzle touching the bed?
When calibrating my printer and configuring my slicer there are many different values that can affect the final distance between the print bed and the nozzle for the first layer. I'm trying to figure out where I should be making different adjustments. I'm having some first-layer issues, and I'm trying to get my layer height configured correctly to make changing materials and print settings easier.
Intuitively it seems like I should be configuring the printer so that when Z = 0 the nozzle is just touching the bed and leaving the height of the first layer entirely up to the slicer. That way the slicer can accurately calculate the first layer height. But a lot of the instructions online imply that Z = 0 is calibrated slightly above the bed (the thickness of the paper). If I were setting zero on a milling machine I'd subtract the thickness of the feeler gauge to get a 'true zero' to the table.
Some of the Marlin calibration features also seem to assume that Z is configured somewhat high. For instance when leveling the bed manually or when editing a UBL mesh it homes the printer and then moves to each point to verify the bed height, but it doesn't seem to account for the thickness of the feeler gauge. This makes me think that the feeler gauge height is expected to be built into the probe Z-offset. I'm using a 0.2 mm metal gauge as it's more repeatable than paper. If I have my Z-offset set to 'true zero' I can work around this by homing the bed to my feeler gauge and then calibrating.
As far as I can tell the following values can affect the final Z height of the first layer:
* The Marlin probe Z-offset value. If this value is accurate then Z = 0 should have the nozzle just touch the bed. If this value is set to the probe/nozzle offset plus the feeler gauge height then when the slicer asks for 0.3 mm it will get 0.3 mm + gauge height.
* If not using an ABL printer:
+ The gantry level
+ The Z limit switch position
+ The bed level screws
* The UBL mesh values. Not only does the mesh conform to the shape of the bed, but I think that it also acts globally on the Z-offset. If I were to bias all of the values in the mesh by the same amount it should effectively have the same effect as adjusting the Z-offset. I think that this could happen when manually tuning a mesh if the Z-offset is incorrect. Tuning the mesh this way would 'hide' the incorrect Z-offset, but require that the error be replicated when the Z-offset needs to be reset (for instance after a nozzle change). This seems to imply that the UBL mesh value at the initial probe point (used when homing) should always be 0 to prevent confounding it with the Z-offset value.
* The Marlin probe XY offset values seem like they could also have an effect on nozzle/bed distance since they will affect where the UBL mesh is sampled for a given nozzle position. I don't know if these values are used when generating the mesh or when reading it. I've measured these values using a dot on a piece of paper, but I'm worried I might have the sign wrong.
* The slicer's initial layer height. Since the slicer 'knows' about this height it uses it to calculate the amount of filament to extrude to create a perfect line of the specified width and height. This setting will vary for different prints and materials.
* The slicer initial layer offset value (**Z Offset** in Cura). This is where it seems to make the most sense to introduce any initial layer 'squish' since it is configurable per print (as opposed to the Marlin **Z Offset** which stays with the printer). I could also add the squish by adjusting the initial layer flow multiplier to extrude a bit more filament than calculated by the slicer.
For reference, I have a Sovol SV01, with a BLTouch and Marlin 2.0.5.3. My pre-calibration process is as follows:
1. Power up the motors and measure the height of each side of the gantry from the printer frame.
2. Turn one of the Z-axis lead screws until both sides sides of the gantry are the same height.
3. Home the printer.
4. Run the Marlin "level corners" wizard. I use a 0.2 mm steel feeler gauge, and go through the corners until they all have the same amount of friction (the centre of the bed is a bit loose now, so the center is slightly concave).
5. Home the printer.
6. Measure the distance to the bed using the feeler gauge.
7. Adjust the 'Z-offset' value to get a distance of 0.2 mm. This will mean that the surface of the bed is at Z = 0.
8. Go back to 5 until no adjustments are needed.
9. Heat up the bed and the hotend (not necessary yet, but can't hurt).
10. Use the Marlin assistant to generate a 'Cold Mesh' UBL mesh.
11. Save the mesh.
# Answer
**No**, you should not, unless you adapt your slicer settings.
This answers explains the Z-offset. If your nozzle is at true Z=0 when touching the bed, then you need to find out all the property's in your slicer that adjust for the paper thickness. E.g. first layer is slightly overextruded and lines are usually wider, with your nozzle at the true zero, these kind of aids need to be changed else you will get too much flow in the first layer, pressure will build up and this will not help you to get a perfect first layer. This may result in rippling, balling up of filament, etcetera.
Commonly used printing paper is about 0.1 mm, this is pretty negligible on most prints you will print.
But, **yes you can**, could also answer your question, this may prove to give you additional work to get your prints printing.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: slicing, z-axis, bltouch, calibration
--- |
thread-10276 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10276 | How to fix wall separation in 3D prints (gaps in between wall perimeters)? | 2019-06-16T09:50:38.257 | # Question
Title: How to fix wall separation in 3D prints (gaps in between wall perimeters)?
The print is very solid except for the 4 walls.
From the top, I can slide a paper down to the bottom. This is ONLY between the walls, the rest of the print is solid. The filament is PLA 1.75 mm.
But the bottom is solid, no gaps.
I have checked the usual problems on Ultimaker troubleshooting photo gallery, but I can find anything similar.
Any advice to fix this would be very welcome.
*Print settings:*
# Answer
To fix this, I had results with the following way:
* Change your extrusion width from being equal to your nozzle size (0.4 mm) to slightly larger (I use 0.45 mm). That way you better combat the shrinking of the filament.
* Having the `Print thin walls` setting activated to force the printer to print intermediary walls if there are areas where less than the prescribed wall thickness for a single wall fills in spaces that are as a result of the wider outer walls left. The result for a 1.2 mm wall, the central part is a 0.3 mm zigzag.
* Lower the extrusion temperature a tad as hotter filament shrinks more on cooling! For PLA about 200 °C is my sweet spot.
Additionally, there are extra steps that could be taken:
* Finally, you could play around a little with the extrusion multiplier to try to get rid of the tiny bit of under extrusion you have.
* Calibration could help too.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Now that print settings are shared we can see that this problem is not related to too fast printing (only 20 mm/s) or too low print temperature (210 °C should get PLA fluid enough). To explain this, a low temperature and too fast printing cause under-extruded lines.
There are 2 other causes that might be worth investigating:
1. Under-extrusion. From the top layers one can see that there may be insufficient material printed. Calibration of the extruder helps in this respect.
2. Inaccurate positioning. This may for instance be caused by loose belts or a mechanical defect.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I've experienced this too, especially with flex modified PLA filament. For that, fixing underextrusion and increasing temperature made it go away. Sadly Cura has no option to overlap walls slightly (if printed in the right order, this could be done without affecting dimensional accuracy) except possibly the outer one, so you really have to get extrusion rate calibrated right or this will happen.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Look for the **horizontal expansion** setting in Cura. By default it should be zero. The description includes this:
> Positive values can help compensate for too big holes.
The "holes" here includes these gaps. You can set it to something very small (ie: .01 or .03, probably no more than .05) and that will likely be enough to get it to fill in those gaps.
Unfortunately, I only have a little direct personal experience with this setting, hence the probably/likely weasel words, and I can't give much real guidance on exactly how big or small you can go with this.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I had the same problem, through multiple models and different brands of PLA. I fixed it by setting the Material "Wall Flow" parameter (both inner and outer wall) to 102%.
Note: The outside dimension is still accurate.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-cura, 3d-design
--- |
thread-21017 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21017 | How do I fix deformities when printing on my Ender 3 V2? | 2023-06-04T18:20:38.660 | # Question
Title: How do I fix deformities when printing on my Ender 3 V2?
Being a newbie in 3D printing, I have some trouble with my prints. After removing wiggle room from the X axis and the bed, there are deformities even on simple prints. The first layer turns out okay-ish but there seems to be some stringing that makes the print deviate consisently when there is a turn. How could I improve? My setup:
```
Ender 3 V2 - stock printing bed, extruder/nozzles
Firmware: mriscoc
Auto bed leveling (BL touch) - Z offset -2.18mm
Slicer: Cura - 0.2mm layers, 20% infill
Material: PLA - 200C nozzle, 60C printing bed.
```
The Gcode of the XYZ cube:
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;Layer height: 0.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 5.3.0
M140 S50
M105
M190 S50
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M420 S1 ; Use mesh level stored
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
```
Sample output (XYZ cube):
# Answer
> 4 votes
Update: I identified the issue as a lack of tension in the X and Y timing belts. After tightening the belts, the prints are much smoother !
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, pla, stringing, mriscoc
--- |
thread-21019 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21019 | Is 3D printing progress linear? | 2023-06-04T22:19:47.263 | # Question
Title: Is 3D printing progress linear?
Is 3D printing progress (the one you check on the display of a 3D printer) linear or not?
By linear I mean that equal differences in percentual progress will take the same clock time.
# Answer
There are lots of ways in which one could interpret this question, but in pretty much all senses I would say no, the progress is not "linear", unless you're talking about a progress bar whose values were computed based on a detailed computation to predict times.
Progress is not linear because different moves the printer makes take different amounts of time. Some may be performed fast, others slow. Even if you requested everything (travel, perimeters, infill, solid fill, etc.) to take place at the same speed, they would still take different amounts of time, because physics. Just like your car doesn't immediately start and stay at 65 MPH just because the highway speed limit is 65, the printer does not immediately start and stay at the requested speed. It has to speed up and slow down gradually (accelerate/decelerate), both from stops and when entering/leaving curves.
As a result, portions of the print with lots of detail take **a lot** longer than portions with mostly long, straight or almost-straight lines.
On top of that, for the print process itself to look "perceptually linear", you'd need a similar amount of time to be spent in each layer. However, some layers take a lot more time just by virtue of the amount of material in the, even if detail weren't an issue.
> 11 votes
# Answer
If you are using a resin DLP 3D printer. (The kind that projects the entire mask in one instance).
Then 3D printing progress is linear (except for the first layers which are cured for longer).
And the depends on the height of your 3D print, not on its complexity.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Short answer: **Usually not.**
Longer answer: **Depends on the printer.**
Many consumer grade 3D printers show progress by how many layers are printed in relation to how many layers in total. But some layers take a lot longer than other layers, so it's just an approximation, at best.
Some higher tier 3D printers calculate differently, and as a result the progress indicator is more precise. For example, the current models of Bambu Lab printers are pretty good at showing precise progress on the display. I think most resin printers are fairly accurate as well.
I think that if we look back at this question in 5 years or so, the answer should probably be changed to: "Yes, usually", since printers get better and better each year.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I think for all practical purposes, the time can be considered linear, yes.
Sure, there are some differences in print speed depending on the shape of the layer (e.g. ratio of infill, different disconnected surfaces, etc. etc.), but those are all independent of what I believe the real question here is. Assume that one has an object that is very wide at the bottom, but very thin at the top. One could assume that the progressbar is based on the height of the print. In that case, the print would of course not be linear, since the top layers would be printed much faster.
This is not the case, since the percentage is normally calculated on the number of gcode instructions done and to be done. So aside from minor differences in speed of different instructions, it would be near-linear.
The only exception to this would be the heating-up. For most slicers this is not counted into the prediction of time, and is also a very non-linear part of the print.
OP's comment under @R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE's answer indicates that this this is the question he really had. The progressbar being stuck for long periods of time cannot be explained by difference in speeds of certain regions in the model.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: display
--- |
thread-18715 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18715 | BLTouch not working on Creality Ender 3 Pro | 2022-01-10T19:59:26.877 | # Question
Title: BLTouch not working on Creality Ender 3 Pro
When starting the printer, the bed leveling sensor does its little startup thing and then lights up static red. When pressing "Level Bed" or "Auto Home" it homes X and Y and after that sends the Z-axis crashing into the bed.
Is there anything I can change in the firmware to debug or fix this? I have checked the wiring and it's correct.
The BLTouch is not a genuine Creality since at the time it for some reason was not available in my country. The BLTouch is connected like any other BLTouch; 2 wires to the Z endstop connector, and 3 of them to "+5V", "GNF" and "IN". The firmware I got of Marlins GitHub and modified the Ender 3 Pro firmware I got of Marlins configuration GitHub (Marlin BugFix 2.0).
The stuff I modified I put here:
Configuration.h
```
#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING
#define BLTOUCH
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -42, -5, 0 }
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
#define PREHEAT_BEFORE_LEVELING
#define LEVELING_BED_TEMP 65
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5
#define LCD_BED_LEVELING
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
```
Configuration\_adv.h
```
#define BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET
```
I compiled this firmware with PlatformIO in VSCode with env: `STM32F103RET6_creality`. The board I used is version 4.2.2 32-bit.
The video I used can be seen here:
# Answer
> 5 votes
I know this is an old post, but I think I figured out the answer.
I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM TODAY while trying to compile custom Marlin firmware (version 2.1.2.1) for the same exact setup as you have. My BLtouch probe is plugged into the dedicated probe header on the mainboard, and the Z endstop switch is also still plugged in. The bed probe wouldn't trigger while homing or bed leveling, and the nozzle would plow straight down.
The issue is in the firmware. The line `#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN` was not commented out in my `Configuration.h`. The printer was expecting an interrupt from the Z endstop switch. It wasn't looking for an interrupt from the bed probe, so the probe triggering wouldn't do anything, and it continued to move. Eventually, the nozzle would hit the bed. If you have this issue still, recompile your firmware with this line commented out in your `Configuration.h`, at around line 1280.
Please let me know if this works for you.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, bltouch
--- |
thread-21032 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21032 | How do I remove filament from the hotend of a direct-drive printer? | 2023-06-08T00:56:23.220 | # Question
Title: How do I remove filament from the hotend of a direct-drive printer?
I have PrintrBot Simple Metal and over the course of today's use, I managed to get a piece of filament stuck in the hotend, just below the extruder gear. There's not really much to grab at, and my tweezers aren't that strong. How should I go about getting the filament out of the hotend? If it matters, I'm using 1.75mm MH Build Series PLA.
Though I solved my problem, I would still like for members of the 3D community to share solutions that work for them.
# Answer
> 6 votes
## Cold Pull
The technic is nigh the same as for a bowden machine:
* Do **NOT** cut the filament!
* First heat the hotend to your filament's print temperature or about 20 °C lower
* Then pull at the filament, possibly using a pair of grooved tongues.
If you want to get rid of residue, especially after printing a high-temperature material, you might want to purge the nozzle too.
## But the filament is short...
If the filament is too short already, purging it is the solution:
* try to cut the filament to just after the extruder gear
* Heat the hotend to printing temperature of the stuck filament
* insert any other filament that has the same or lower melting temperature behind and (using pliers) make sure that it will line up with the filament path.
* Push the stuck filament through.
* Best perform a purge now.
## Purging
I mentioned above purging. Purging is just pushing *extra* filament through. As it melts and gets pushed out with extra force, it takes with it all the residue and old filament. You pretty much purge the old material from the system. It might be easier for you to use a different color, as then you can see when you have purged the previous filament fully.
If you still need to clean more or want to swap the nozzle, you can let the hotend cool down to about 20 °C below the printing temperature of your now-loaded filament and return to a cold pull.
I generally have good enough success by performing a cold pull and then purging some centimeters more after the filament is of even color.
## Nozzle geometry warning
Core-Heating nozzles are very complex and doing a cold pull in them is very hard to impossible. It is best to not cold-pull and instead just purge forward if possible.
# Answer
> 7 votes
Ok, so I finally figured out a way to get it out:
I heated the hotend to the melting temp. of the filament, and then used another piece of filament to push it through. Just make sure that the other piece of filament is connected to the spool you want to print from :).
Thanks to @Trish for teaching me that this is called a purge.
---
Tags: hotend, filament-jam
--- |
thread-20498 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20498 | Auto Bed Leveling does not compensate for bed tilt correctly (Anycubic Kobra Neo) | 2023-01-25T15:33:00.507 | # Question
Title: Auto Bed Leveling does not compensate for bed tilt correctly (Anycubic Kobra Neo)
Setup: Anycubic Kobra Neo (Firmware v1.3.3), Cura 5.2.1
I recently bought an Anycubic Kobra Neo. It works but has issues with auto bed leveling. Specifically, auto bed leveling does not compensate for bed tilt in X and Y directions correctly. After running the auto leveling, the printer consistently prints higher up in the right back corner, compared to the front left corner of the build plate.
The problem does not seem to be related to auto bed leveling being disabled though. While printing, you can see the Z lead screw turning, so the printer definitely tries to compensate for something.
What I tried:
* Print Z calibration patterns
* Run auto leveling again using the attached controller
* Run auto leveling again with the `G29` command and prior `G28` to home, followed by `M500` to save the mesh
* Add `M420 S1` to start G-code (also tried `M420 L` and both together)
* Reset EEPROM with `M502`
* Use Repetier Host instead of Cura
* Used different filament
# Answer
I've just been through the same problem using the flex bed on the Kobra Max, but it was there with the glass before as well, it was just a little better.
Some problems I did notice:
* When you remove the plastic cover on the printer head, you will notice the strain gauge is already stressed by some wire pushing on the heat sink. If you tie the cover aside to make sure it can blow on the heat sink without adding stress on it and you do the calibration, it improved the results for me.
Something bad I did notice is that by power cycling the printer and redoing the nozzle touching step at the beginning of the leveling process, the pressure required to light the red led was not the same at all from time to time. So I guess the strain gauge is probably calibrating on power on but not in a reliable way obviously.
* When I put the plastic cover back in place on the printer head, I could not have the red LED (on the strain gauge PCB) to stay off so there is something pushing on it while it is tightened so it has to be less sensitive when it's assembled (IMO). I could not yet find what is pushing on it, I would have to sit inside the box to see...
* After having the leveling done without the plastic cover on the printer's head and having power cycled the printer until the nozzle touching step was the most sensitive before the leveling, all my test squares near the outside of the bed were good but the ones in the middle were much thinner.
* What seems to be the major problem in this leveling process is that it is doing its leveling process at a fixed temperature (60 °C). So if your bed has to reach 100 °C for ABS, for example, the aluminum heating bed will expand but not the cold steel bracket holding it underneath, so the bed gets higher in the middle.
* If you succeed to get even tests around your bed and only the ones in the middle are thinner, try to print with the bed at 60 °C (same temp as its leveling) and it will be perfect :). But yes, I know you want the bed at 100 °C for ABS. For this, I have no fix, they will have to update their firmware so we can level at any temp.
> 2 votes
# Answer
The issue seems to be mostly left/right.
The cause is a twisted X extrusion or rail together with a probe which has a X and Y offset compared to the nozzle, therefore it reads wrong values.
See https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/22791
If you cannot correct the mesh manually, try to straighten the axis, or add a counterweight behind the axis as heavy as the toolhead.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, bed-leveling, calibration, z-probe, anycubic-kobra-neo
--- |
thread-21037 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21037 | Missing walls in Cura after slicing | 2023-06-09T12:19:18.557 | # Question
Title: Missing walls in Cura after slicing
I designed some line art figure in Blender using several Bezier Curves, converted them all to Meshes, joined them to one Mesh and converted it back to a Curve. Then I extracted the curve and set a depth and at the end I saved it as a STL file.
Now in Cura (5.2.2.2) using the standard settings I have the following struggle:
When opening up the STL everything seems normal and as designed:
But after slicing some lines/walls are ignored:
Judging by the preview visualization and time those inner structures disappear.
Do you know how to correct by tweaking the Cura settings?
I think the problem comes from the Blender Project due to the multiple converting and joining process but maybe I can save the current model instead of starting over.
# Answer
As suspected the error came from the Blender project. I tried using only Bezier curves and after joining and extruding the exported STL file behaves as expected.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, blender
--- |
thread-20728 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20728 | Drying filament with heated bed on Prusa - how to "bypass" safety timer? | 2023-03-25T21:36:25.623 | # Question
Title: Drying filament with heated bed on Prusa - how to "bypass" safety timer?
On my Prusa MK3, I'm trying to make a G-code that only heats up the print bed and moves the Z-axis up and down a little bit every 20 mins to prevent the safety timer going off. This is what I have done:
1. Sliced a random file with PrusaSlicer.
2. Opened it in TextEdit.
3. Deleted the G-code for:
* the actual print
* heating the nozzle
* waiting for the nozzle to heat up
4. Changed the G-code to heat the bed to 50 °C.
5. Inserted this G-code:
```
G28,
G1 Z190 Y140 F500,
G4 S1200,
G1 Z188,
G1 Z190,
```
6. Copied and pasted `G4 S1200, G1 Z188, G1 Z190` command 11 times - total of 12 instances.
I believe this should last a total of slightly more than 4 hours, right? I Just want to make sure before I possibly break my printer or if there is a better way to do this.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Overall, this solution should work, but have in mind, that modifying G-code files can be risky and may result in damaging your printer or causing other issues. Therefore, it is essential to exercise caution when creating and executing custom G-code.
As each instance includes a delay of 1200 seconds (20 minutes) and a movement of the Z-axis, the entire code should run for approximately 4 hours and 24 minutes.
However, keep in mind that you should periodically check the printer to ensure that everything is running smoothly and that no errors have occurred. Additionally, you may want to adjust the temperature and movement values based on your specific needs and printer settings. It is essential to exercise caution and closely monitor the printer during this operation to avoid any potential risks.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You can send the `M86` command to your Prusa printer to change the safety timer. For example, to set the timer to disable heating after four hours, you could send `M86 S14400`. The relevant documentation is on the Prusa-specific G-Codes page.
---
Tags: pla, filament, prusa-i3, g-code, heated-bed
--- |
thread-20996 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20996 | Extruder motor jerking back and forth | 2023-05-29T02:57:57.827 | # Question
Title: Extruder motor jerking back and forth
I recently got a used Creator Pro printer, and I just did a few prints amounting to about 10 hours of total print time, with no issue. But suddenly, the extruder started jerking filament back and forth, not feeding. If I force the filament with my hand, it goes through the hot extruder easily, and when I do filament loading, this still happens. I disassembled the extruder to make sure the motor isn't stuck on anything, and even with nothing touching the shaft, it does this wiggling when I tell the printer to load the filament. I doubt the sequencing for the motor spontaneously changed after hours of printing. I pulled the cable and plugged it back in, same thing. The firmware is Sailfish if that matters. I'm beginning to suspect the stepper motor is toast, but I wanted to ask here first if anyone thinks it could be something else.
# Answer
Plug the extruder cable into one of the other motors and send a filament feed signal. If the problem manifests the same, then you can probably rule out the motor as the culprit. You could have a bad cable or a bad controller board. To rule out a bad cable you'd just swap out the cable from the board to the extruder. However, if the problem doesn't recur, then the motor might be bad. It might also be mounted poorly. You may be able to remove it from it's mounting and test if the problem persists.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: extruder, stepper
--- |
thread-4381 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4381 | Is there a way to invert motor direction with G-code instead of Firmware in Marlin | 2017-07-16T07:27:27.137 | # Question
Title: Is there a way to invert motor direction with G-code instead of Firmware in Marlin
Is there a way to change the direction a motor goes with G-code instead of reconfiguring Marlin firmware?
# Answer
For the X/Y/Z axes, you can use `M92` to change the axis steps per unit to a negative value, which causes it to move in the opposite direction. I.e. if normally your X axis has 160 steps per mm, using `M92 X-160` will invert all of its movements.
However, this is more of a hack than a real, intended solution. It would be better to (if you are concerned with the homing direction) change the configuration to have the printer home in the other direction. Unfortunately, this can only be done by changing the firmware and not through G-code.
For the extruder, I'm not aware of any method to invert its direction with G-code.
> 12 votes
# Answer
You cannot use `M92 E-` on Marlin (anymore).
The right solution nowadays is taking the wires out of the plug of the stepper motor connector using a prying tool and switching them all totally the flipped way around. That way the motor gets the signals the other way round.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, stepper
--- |
thread-21052 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21052 | Disabling bed level before each print | 2023-06-13T18:00:35.110 | # Question
Title: Disabling bed level before each print
I am running SKR Mini E3V3 on my Ender 3 Pro with CR Touch. I'd like to stop the bed leveling before every print and to use the stored Mesh (UBL). Where and how do I do this? Do I need to do it in the firmware and Cura?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes you can disable the bed leveling procedure, just make sure to comment out the `G29` G-code and put the `M420 S` in after `G28` in your start G-code.
From the Marlin documentation you can read:
> Get and/or set bed leveling state. For mesh-based leveling systems use Z parameter to set the Z Fade Height.
>
> With `AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL` you can use L to load a mesh from EEPROM. Option `L` followed by an integer (`M420 L<int>`) -\> Load mesh from EEPROM index (Requires `AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL` and `EEPROM_SETTINGS` defined in firmware)
Also note that
> * `G28` disables bed leveling. Follow with `M420 S` to turn leveling on, or use `RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28` to automatically keep leveling on after `G28`.
This implies that if `RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28` is set in your firmware, you do not need the `M420 S` command.
You can test this by removing `G29` in a current print, if you don't see the Z stepper move during the first layer, the `RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28` is not defined in firmware and you will need to use the `M420 S` command in your start G-code directly after `G28`.
---
Tags: bed-leveling
--- |
thread-19940 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19940 | Setting Z offset on Artillery Hornet (Marlin 2.0.7.2) | 2022-09-17T17:04:36.393 | # Question
Title: Setting Z offset on Artillery Hornet (Marlin 2.0.7.2)
After leveling the corners of the bed and doing a manual mesh bed leveling (both options on the menu LCD) I adjust the babystep Z while printing to get a perfect first layer.
Ideally, I would take note of the optimal babystep Z value and store it as Z offset, but there´s no Z offset option in the LCD menu. The only similar setting I can find is (only while printing) **Tune** \> **Bed Z** but this setting doesn´t affect anything. If I adjust babystep Z I can clearly see changes in Z height but not with Bed Z.
Does anyone have any idea how to store the babystep Z value? (I´ve already tried adjusting the babystep Z and then selecting the **Store Settings** option but that doesn´t work) Or maybe how to store my Z offset value through Pronterface?
PS: I recently started 3D printing, I know how to send commands through the Pronterface terminal, but haven´t learned how to modify firmware yet.
# Answer
There is an option in the Hornet, which is in **Motion** (so not when printing, just when idle), then **Bed Z**. I have never used it since I just level manually but if you want to configure it via firmware then you can do it there.
If you want to offset each of the 9 points individually you can also do it on the same menu, select **Level Bed** instead and it will take you routinely through each point so you can introduce individual Z values.
If you want to do it via command you can use M851. I'm citing the relevant part from the guide:
> 1. **Start by resetting the Z offset**. You can do this with the command **M851 Z0**, which will ensure that there is no pre-existing offset to throw our calculations off.
> 2. **Home the printer**. Use the **G28** G-code to trigger auto-homing, which will bring all the axes to the 0 point.
> 3. **Disable hardware endstops**. You can use the **M121** G-code to do so.
> 4. **Disable software endstops**. Use the **M211** G-code with the **S0** parameter to do so. Place a piece of paper on the bed in line with the nozzle. We will be using this piece of paper to know when to stop moving the nozzle in the next step.
> 5. **Bring the nozzle down slowly until it touches the piece of paper**. You can do this via either the built-in panel or the software of your choice.
> 6. **Write the Z-axis value down and run the M851 G-code with it**. For instance, if your Z-axis shows -2.5, run **M851 Z-2.5**.
>
> \[...\]
>
> Finally, use the G-codes **M120** and **M211 S1** to enable the hardware and software endstops, and run the **M500** command to save your settings to the EEPROM, which will allow your 3D printer to load them back automatically every time you boot it.
My personal way of keeping the Hornet bed leveled is manually instead of by firmware by having 5 individual files that each have a square at a different position (all the corners + center though I rarely use the latter) and when I notice prints start to look ugly on a certain corner I know I have to use that square to level.
The rule is: **if you see spaces between each line, raise the bed. If you see roughness, lower the bed**. You don't need to print the whole square either, just enough for you to see the filament fuses correctly as every line is being laid.
(I understand this last point doesn't answer your question per se but I wanted to give you every option available to accomplish your levelling including manual)
> 1 votes
# Answer
You might want to try and adjust it in Marlin itself but it will be a long, frustrating process of trial and error. Alternatively, if you are using Cura you can download a plug-in that allows you to adjust z-offset. You just have to remember to reslice your model if you print on multiple surfaces with different thickness
> 0 votes
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Tags: marlin, z-axis, print-axis-offset
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thread-21056 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21056 | Stringing test results in towers with weak base | 2023-06-14T19:16:45.603 | # Question
Title: Stringing test results in towers with weak base
As you can see, no stringing! But the base of each tower is deformed, non-circular, and extremely weak. The tops of the towers are perfectly circular, so I don't believe it is entirely an X, Y axis issue.
This is PLA at ~195 °C with a 64 °C bed on a QIDI X-MAX. I have tried this with multiple copies of the print on the bed which does not solve the problem, so I don't believe it is a layer-cooling issue. Also tried different temperatures, Z-adjust, and re-leveled multiple times. Any thoughts on the cause of this?
# Answer
> 3 votes
The warping on the base's corners suggests too much heat on the bed. You should try the same print but with the bed turned off since you're using PLA (if you're worried about adhesion you can use hairspray/glue stick to keep the print in place). If the print comes out okay then lower your bed temperature (I generally use 50 °C) or consider carrying on with the bed off + adhesive combination instead.
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Tags: print-quality
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thread-10683 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10683 | Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)? | 2019-07-25T08:46:26.333 | # Question
Title: Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?
I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface. I read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main contributor to the power consumption of a printer.
As I do see that bed heating definitely helps with the first layer adhesion I did not want to turn it off completely, but I did start experimenting with turning off bed heating after all solid bottom layers have printed (using the ChangeAtZ script in Cura) and so far I haven't seen any negative effects, especially no warping (I am usually printing with a brim or raft; I think that might also help in that regard).
Am I missing something? Why is *anyone* keeping the bed heated for an entire print?
# Answer
There are three reasons (I can think of):
1. A large problem you'd face with allowing the bed to cool after first layer is you stand the chance of losing adhesion after it cools. When you heat the bed, it expands somewhat. When it cools it contracts. It has been known for parts to actually pop off the bed if left on there to cool (after a print). If you allow the bed to cool fully, you could ruin a print due to it losing the adhesion, popping off the bed, then the printer keeps on going.
2. When you're dealing with 0.1 mm layer height, that's not a lot of wiggle room. When you level your bed before printing, it should be done after everything is heated. If you were to turn off the bed after you start printing, you could very easily shift the bed enough to take up the worth of an entire layer, which means your print has adjusted and will then have major imperfections. This isn't a *given*, but definitely a concern ... especially for larger or taller prints.
3. Whether PLA or PETG, the extruded filament needs to have heat in order to stay. This is not only heat in the extruder, but heat in the print itself. If the print cools off, this could affect subsequent adhesion for the filament getting laid down. If you turn the bed heater off after print start, you'll lose that heated environment. The print will cool off and you'll start seeing variations in the print, which, if the print is large enough, would most likely be more noticable. Think of it as a heated environment, not just putting piling host plastic on top of each other.
There may be other reasons, but I believe these are *very good* reasons not to turn your bed off after print start. If you are worried your power supply isn't providing enough power, then get a bigger power supply. If you're worried about power consumption overall, once the bed is heated, consumption goes way down (as @r\_ahlskog stated in their answer).
> 22 votes
# Answer
PETG requires a heated bed otherwise it will shrink, detach from the platform and begin curling at the edges.
PLA, however in some situations does not require a heated build platform. It depends on the build surface. Some surfaces need to be hot to work, and some do not. Keeping it on helps stop the part from cooling too quickly as well. However with the correct first layer height, this tends to be less of an issue.
I've had PLA parts stick so well to a PVA coated glass bed, that picking it up also lifted the printer. Once the bed cools on PET-G however, it practically detaches from the bed itself.
> 3 votes
# Answer
For long prints, if turning off bed heating saves money, throwing out the filament from a detached print costs you more. The risk to gain ratio is very skewed. The “savings” in turning off the bed are considerably negative, and, as pointed out, the risk of losing the print is increased.
> 3 votes
# Answer
All the valid points of bed shrinking and dislocating your parts when cooling from the other answer aside there is also the added complexities both in testing reliability of such a thing that may or may not be applicable to all materials.
The added complexity to the slicers to figure out when it is safe to turn off the bed which I would imagine depends on part footprint. I also sometimes print several parts sequentially in the same job so then it would need to know that and time the bed heating correctly or pause and wait for bed between parts.
I would also categorize printer power use as trivial (order of three 60W lightbulbs), but considering millions of machines worldwide economics of scale does kick in.
> 2 votes
# Answer
A way to save energy would be use a pretty tight enclosure around the printer, I think a pretty thin layer of insulation would be enough to reduce power usage by a large factor. I've not build one myself yet but there seems to be so many benefits.
> 1 votes
# Answer
its up to you do some own test and see how its working for you:
* yesterday decrease temp to 50\* after some time no issue
* today decrease temp to 30\* some small disform but its keep printing ok
* also you can add paper glue to bed
* keep in mind that when temperature decrease bed is moving down due to lost heat
* if is large print then its stay on bed, small print can detach when decrease temperature
> 0 votes
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Tags: pla, heated-bed, petg, creality-ender-5
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thread-21070 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21070 | Add minimal support or breaking layer in multi part | 2023-06-19T15:20:45.210 | # Question
Title: Add minimal support or breaking layer in multi part
I am new to 3D printing, so this is probably a simple one. I am using Freecad to design and Bambu slicer for printing. The object (simple cable clip) basically consists of vertical walls with no relevant overhangs. However, for printing, I have stacked seven of them in a vertical tower separating all seven objects by a small gap.
When I slice this with supports enabled, I get a preview that somewhat looks like Devil's Tower. I tried to draw the support manually and even blocked support at the walls which allows me to draw exactly what I want, but this doesn't change anything. The slicer still throws material at it like crazy.
What I ideally want is a single vertical support/breaking layer separating the parts. I know, I could model this breaking layer in Freecad, but the curved nature of the upper side makes sketching and modeling this quite difficult.
So my question is, is there an easy way to do this in a slicer?
# Answer
> 0 votes
The most easy solution is to edit the G-code file. In the G-code file you can see when the next stacked item starts to be printed. If there is no gap between the objects, the objects fuse together. If you insert G-code to raise the Z height by 0.1 - 0.2 mm and redefine the new Z to the old value prior to move you have created a weak/break layer similar to a support roof with a gap to the printed part.
So after the last layer of an object you insert:
```
// E.g. last Z is 15 mm, layer height is 0.2 mm
G1 Z15.15 // Raise Z height by 0.15 mm
G92 Z15 // Define this the Z you left
// Continue printing next object
```
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Tags: slicing, support-structures, support-material
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thread-20954 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20954 | Printing spare plastic parts | 2023-05-15T17:18:15.680 | # Question
Title: Printing spare plastic parts
A small \[7 cm long x 5 cm high x 10 cm deep\] hard plastic piece of my old luggage broke (see attached). The manufacturer does not have spares for this old model.
Is there any way to scan the working piece on the left with an Android app and order a 3D printed one-off one?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I used some thermoplastic. It does not look exactly like the original as I had to give it shape with my own hands, but certainly does the trick. It also costs less than $10 USD. Let's see how long it lasts.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You absolutely could try using Polycam to try to scan the piece on the left, and then create a model from it. That's not "plug-and-play" though - would take some modeling prowess to get it to what you need.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I don't think 3d scanning would be practical here since this is a small and very simple part. You can model it using reference pictures in Fusion360 instead. The program is free for personal use too. Plus learning how to do this means you can start fixing other stuff on your house using the same method later.
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Tags: scanning
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thread-21075 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21075 | 3D scanning parts that don't stand on their own | 2023-06-20T16:47:10.123 | # Question
Title: 3D scanning parts that don't stand on their own
All the scanners I have seen, are scanning objects that stand on a platform. What about something like a plastic part which doesn't stand on it's own? for example this plastic piece I broke on my Kärcher pressure washer
Do you just have to be skilled at modelling enough to create a model from scratch?
# Answer
At work we print holders for parts that don't standup themselves. This part you broke is probably not suitable for being printed yourself, this is most probably Nylon (or even worse, POM), when you print this yourself you will get into some challenges, like warping. If this has been broken, I doubt whether you find a suitable replacement material. Personally, I would buy this part, it is too difficult to scan and print yourself. And, if printed outside using a print service, it will be more expensive then buying a spare.
> 0 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, scanning
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thread-10634 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10634 | Did I just destroy my MKS Gen L v1.0 board by shorting the stepper driver? | 2019-07-20T01:43:10.443 | # Question
Title: Did I just destroy my MKS Gen L v1.0 board by shorting the stepper driver?
I was attempting to install new TMC2208 chips on my MKS Gen L v1.0. Everything was going swell, I just had one more thing to do.
I was checking and tuning the Vref for TMC2208 by measuring voltage across the GND pin and the through-hole shown in this pic (from Stepper drivers - TMC2208):
However during very last measurement on the X-axis stepper I slipped and the probe on my meter shorted the GND and VM pins on the TMC2208!! Pic below:
Immediately my board turned off, LCD went out, then I unplugged the printer as fast as I could, but the damage was done. My board now does not power on completely when connected only to the PSU.
The LED D7 will flicker on and off, as will the LCD screen. However, if I connect the board over USB I am able to connect and interact with the board just fine.
I have meticulously checked the board for blown components but can't see any damage. The two fuses near the 12 V power on the board are not blown.
Is anyone able to offer some insight on this? Does it sound like a salvageable board?
**Comment responses:**
**@Oscar:** Thanks and yes I've (attempted) to power the board without anything plugged-in/attached to see if it works, but no dice.
**@Tom:** There is a lot packed into your comment that required searching for info to even respond. The 5 V voltage regulator on my MKS Gen L v1.0 board looks to be an MP1584en chip. Seen in pic below from MP1584\_r1.0.pdf:
When I connect the board via USB and test the Vin pin, I see a steady ~4.2 V . When I remove USB and connect straight to the power supply I see a unsteady Vin between 6-7 V .
So I would like to trace from this MP1584EN back to my 12 V power source on the board. However, after searching it appears that the schematics for the MKS Gen L v1.0 are not available openly. Unless there is an avenue to find the schematic which I have overlooked. Anyone that can link me to them would be much appreciated.
**@R:** OP's level is a green-horn baby kitten at its very first rodeo. However your suggestion appeals to me because it sounds like a quick easy soldering fix. To better understand, do you mean to take my 12 V from the power source then connect it to different regulator (usb car charger) and then on the secondary side of the car charger, connect it back into my board?
If you're willing to give a bit more of a description this is something I'd definitely be willing to try.
**Thanks for all the responses.**
# Answer
> However, after searching it appears that the schematics for the MKS Gen L v1.0 are not available openly.
Here is the schematic.
Anyway, the problem is the MP1584 regular is toast. There is no reverse biased protection diode going from output to input (arrow pointing towards input) in the schematic.
Most buck or linear voltage regulators aren't meant to be operated with Vout being higher than Vin, even briefly. There are internal parasitic diode structures inside that will get turned on by voltage in the wrong direction (higher Vout than Vin). Once turned on, the output capacitor happily dumps its charge through these diode structures and out to Vin.
This kills the regulator.
What results is typically an internal short of some sort in the chip.
So when you shorted Vm, that was also shorting the input to the 5V regulator and the input capacitor there, so suddenly there was 0V at Vin and ~5V at Vout. Poor chip never stood a chance.
What results is typically an internal short of some sort in the chip.
This is not your fault, this is poor design (or a reckless cost saving decision), as accidentally shorting Vm is very easy to do on accident. A suitable diode would have cost ~1.3¢, not even two whole pennies and would have made accidental shorting of Vm be harmless. There is no valid reason not to include such a protection diode on the board.
Regardless, your only options are to either desolder the MP1584 and solder a new one onto the board, or, since you can talk to the board via USB (which provides its own 5V power to the board), desolder the MSP1584 (since it is shorting the input power to some degree) and simply keeping a USB charger of some sort plugged into the USB port (I wouldn't leave it connected to your computer since it doesn't have any USB isolation) to provide the 5V power rail instead.
The main problem is that bad chip. You gotta get it off the board before anything will be able to work unfortunately. Desoldering is relatively easy, especially if you don't care about the chip you're removing. Just be sure there are no shorts between the pads after you're done.
> 1 votes
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Tags: troubleshooting, electronics, stepper-driver, maintenance, hardware
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thread-20689 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20689 | Ender 3 BLTouch not working with BigTreeTech SKR mini e3 or stock motherboard | 2023-03-16T01:34:19.817 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 BLTouch not working with BigTreeTech SKR mini e3 or stock motherboard
When my Ender 3 was on the stock motherboard, I went through two BLTouch sensors. In both cases, we had the same result: sometimes, when homing with the sensor, the printer would jam the gantry down into the bed because it would miss the sensor. When leveling, it would intermittently stop before it had completed all the steps.
Alas, since I have a glass bed I cannot use the Z-axis limit switch for homing (without mechanical modification, anyways.)
I installed a BigTreeTech SKR mini e3 motherboard. Motion control works fine. In fact, it's much, much quieter. Sadly, still have lousy results (although I've only tried one sensor on this one.)
* Z Limit switch plugged in: The BLTouch Deploys. The board totally ignores the sensor (even when I shove it home with my fingers on the way down) and drives into the board.
* Z Limit switch not plugged in: The BLTouch seems to deploy and stow over and over again. Then, the printer just says "STOPPED".
Does anyone have any suggestions?
(I think I've been using the same wire this whole time, for what that's worth.)
# Answer
> 1 votes
I had this same issue and fixed it by removing the z-stop cable and using the black and white (the combined 2 wires on the BLTouch). Below is a diagram that may help.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, bltouch, bigtreetech
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thread-21084 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21084 | Why are the circular parts of this print not sticking to the raft properly | 2023-06-22T11:40:56.633 | # Question
Title: Why are the circular parts of this print not sticking to the raft properly
I’m fairly new to 3D printing but have managed about 10 parts successfully so far. On this print, there were some issues printing the raft, but by the final layer, it looked ok, so I let it continue. I was surprised to see that when trying to print the circular pattern, the filament seems to come unstuck from the raft and pull across.
Is this down to bed adhesion, or some post-processing setting? I’m running PLA at 50 mm/s. The bed temp is 50 °C and the nozzle temp is 210 °C.
# Answer
Likely the extruder gear is slipping on the filament. The tension arm may be weak or broken. It's also possible that there's a partial clog.
Whenever you get curved paths not adhering in place but getting "pulled" straight across the curve, the forces pulling on the extruded material from the nozzle moving are exceeding those making it adhere to whatever it was supposed to adhere to below. This can especially happen on overhangs, where there's low contact with what's below, or in cases like over a raft or support where there's a gap and it's intended not to strongly adhere to anything below. However, if the right amount of material is being extruded, and if it's sufficiently melted before extrusion, there should be very little force trying to pull it out of place. This leads me to believe there's some extrusion problem going on.
If you can't find anything wrong, you can try just going slower on the first layer after the raft, or using a hotter nozzle temperature. In the big scheme of things, 50 mm/s is a really low print speed, but for someone new to 3D printing, using a stock Ender 3 that likely has lots of little problems you're going to have to find and fix, it's at least an "above average" speed for a first layer, and I'd try just reducing that.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3
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thread-21076 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21076 | During a print, why must I continually adjust the Z offset to a more neagative number to keep the nozzle from air printing? | 2023-06-20T17:20:30.170 | # Question
Title: During a print, why must I continually adjust the Z offset to a more neagative number to keep the nozzle from air printing?
The nozzle is not clogged. After an adjustment, I get two to three good printed layers then the nozzle begins to lift away from the print. If I do not adjust the Z offset more negatively, then the print begins to go airborne in very small increments while extruding filament. I must babysit the print to get it finished.
A 20 mm cube (XYZ calibration cube) turns out with Z measuring 4.3 mm and X and Y both measuring 20 mm. I have tried printing a model which I have printed many times without problems in the past but now it fails to print. I have downloaded the XYZ calibration stl from Thingiverse and it fails to print without going airborne.
I have an Ender3 V2 Neo w/ BLTouch. The default Z steps is 400 mm. For calibration, I set it to 403 mm. No improvement. Then I set the Z steps to 380, 420, and 1200 mm without any change in the failed print results. The V2 Neo is only 4 months old. It has the most recent firmware but I re-flashed it anyway. No change. Then I downloaded from GitHub the mriscoc/Ender3V2S1 firmware. This firmware is awesome but it did not solve my problem. I have replaced the Z stepper motor, no change. My next step is to upgrade the motherboard from v 4.2.2 to v 4.2.7.
What are your thoughts?
# Answer
It seems your Z-axis calibration is off. First, ensure your Z-axis steps/mm are set correctly in the firmware.
Second, ensure your BLTouch is functioning correctly. Incorrect bed leveling information might be the cause.
Third, inspect your 3D printer's mechanical parts. Loose screws or belts might cause the Z-axis to drift.
Lastly, it's possible you're experiencing an extrusion issue. Make sure your extruder is pushing out the correct amount of filament.
And if all else fails, if you ask me, I would say upgrading your controller board could be a potential solution.
> 2 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, z-axis, nozzle, print-axis-offset, mriscoc
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thread-21043 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21043 | Under-extrusion in Certain Locations | 2023-06-11T20:23:51.587 | # Question
Title: Under-extrusion in Certain Locations
Recently, I've been noticing what looks like under extrusion. My first thought was a clogged nozzle, but it only occurs in some places:
My printer is a PrintrBot Simple Metal, using MH Build Series 1.75 mm PLA and the model was sliced with Cura 5.1.0. What could be causing this, and how should I fix it?
Slicer settings:
* infill density 10 % (pattern: cubic)
* layer height: 0.2 mm
* print speed: 50 mm/s (travel: 150 mm/s)
* print temp: 200 °C (bed: 0 °C)
* retraction: enabled (Z-hop: disabled)
* cooling: enabled (fan speed: 100 %)
I'm not printing faster than usual, and I watched some of this print print, and there were no obvious issues like a clicking extruder. I find it strange that it occurred regularly along the edge of one piece, but the piece next to it was perfect. It seems to occur around two sharp corners. The other piece didn't have those sharp corners.
Another doubtful theory by me:
I've had some issues with a loose plug recently. Could this be causing a drop in temperature?
# Answer
**Solved! Finally...**
So after having this issue off and on, an extreme case appeared. It turns out that filament was resisting coming off the spool, and when the extruder and hotend (the Simple is a direct-drive) pulled away from the spool it created tension in the filament, effectively pulling it out of the hotend, though only just enough to cause this issue. In this specific case, it seems that the long edge before the side of the piece was pulling the filament.
Shoutout to @metacollin and @DragonDon for their answers. I'm still calibrating my machine, so they'll useful.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Ultimately, your printer is pushing out less filament than the gcode is telling it to (which you know, but its worth focusing on the exact problem).
If your stepper motor isn't missing steps, then that leaves just a few possibilities:
1. The extruder's hobbed gear is slipping against the filament
2. The extruder's hobbed gear (or whatever is being driven by the extruder motor) is slipping on the motor shaft.
3. You got a bad spool with short lengths where the filament diameter is substantially out of tolerance (in the negative direction).
#3 seems extremely unlikely though is still possible. The filament need not be noticeably under spec, it just needs to narrow enough that the hobbed gear can't grab onto it well enough and you get slippage.
#2 is also unlikely but its so easy to check, might as well.
#1 is what my money is on.
Now we have to think of what could be causing filament slippage. This occurs when the hobbed gear's ability to grab the filament is overpowered by the resistance to flow through the nozzle.
This can either be from too little grip, or something causing unusual and intermittent resistance to flow that causes the hobbed gear to shred the filament.
* If there is too little grip, you simply need to tighten the screw that has the spring that pushes the idler arm and idler pulley against the filament more pressure means better grip for the hobbed gear).
* Your hobbed gear might have gunk between the teeth preventing it from gripping well and merely needs to be cleaned with something sharp.
* Your idler pulley might have be broken, check for any play or unsmooth rotation on the shaft
Once you're certain grip is nice and strong, that leaves something causing resistance to flow:
* There might be a spec of debris with an irregular high aspect ratio shape in your hotend. It can't exit through the nozzle, but it also can't completely block it either, and is constantly moving around and only becomes a problem some of the time.
* One of your hotend's thermistor wires might have an intermittent short, or the thermistor itself has cracked. Low/short circuit resistance ends up getting interpreted as really high temperature, so no power is sent to the heater until a good enough thermistor connection returns. This can result in the hotend getting too cold for short periods. This option seems plausible since there seems to be a rough correlation between the print head position and when it happens, which is consistent with a broken conductor issue. The connection goes bad when the wires are positioned in certain ways, basically.
And it could of course be any combination of these things cooccurring and all contributing.
Unfortunately, under extrusion has so many potential causes that you just have to start going down the list from easiest to hardest thing to fix, and hope the problem is more towards the easy end.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I would strongly follow Teach Tech's calibration guide. It's entirely possible that there are a number of things out of whack, contributing to the overall print quality. In this case, I'd look at doing a PID tune and seeing if your print temps are consistent.
Also, as the filament is fed into the nozzle, that lowers the temp, and if your temperature is not consistent, it might be lowered to a point where it starts to solidify, this would account for the results you get but again, could be a number of things. Even wet filament.
The filament you are using has a temp range of 205 +/-15. That means anything from 190 to 220. Even in your pic you can see the issue starting at lower layers.
Calibration is clearly the first thing to do before anything else.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, underextrusion
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thread-21088 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21088 | How does my printer auto level based off the sensor I installed? | 2023-06-22T22:02:36.757 | # Question
Title: How does my printer auto level based off the sensor I installed?
I'll start off with some info in case it's needed, but my questions are a bit lower. I have an Ender 3 Pro with the 4.2.2 motherboard. Grabbed a Marlin firmware bin from Shiny Upgrades and seems to work great (built my own once and wasn't a fan). Got my Z-offset sorted out with a combination of stealing other people's numbers and testing a few prints out. Tried auto homing, but got weird numbers and instead resorted to that other approach. Printer seems work well now and my Z-offset is around -0.8 mm.
* *Is the Z-offset I set in printer UI the distance between the sensor and the nozzle?*
If so, does that mean I can now swap beds and expect the printer to automatically adjust for that *without* having to adjust the Z-offset again? Maybe assume I'm swapping between two perfectly flat beds and one is 5 mm thick and one is 10 mm thick, so we don't have to account for a different bed level mesh or something.
* *Is my bed leveling kind of useless?*
I have 7x7 leveling, but the sensor is quite the distance away from the actual nozzle (mainly on the X-axis, but I assume also on the Y-axis), so any point it levels for won't actually be the point where the nozzle prints. I don't recall seeing any X or Y offsets in the printer UI either, just the Z offset. Why would the Z offset be an adjustable value in the UI, but not the other two? Barely anyone even mentions setting an X-offset and I'm not sure why.
# Answer
> 0 votes
> *Is the Z-offset I set in printer UI the distance between the sensor and the nozzle?*
From this answer on question "Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup" we read that:
> the offset between the nozzle and the sensor trigger point (to the bed)
If you replace the build surface for a different surface the offset doesn't have to be changed.
> *Is my bed leveling kind of useless?*
No, automatic bed leveling can be very useful if the build surface isn't as flat as a sheet of glass, it will map the surface and ensures the first layer is deposited at the correct distance.
> I don't recall seeing any X or Y offsets in the printer UI
These settings are in the firmware, that is where these are defined. Note that these shouldn't be in the UI, as this is a hardware change. Also note that Marlin is pretty well programmed and is aware of this sensor offset, and even will use these offsets to have the print head (nozzle to be exact) stay within the specified print area. This is a good thing, e.g. when the sensor offset is large, and it would probe to the edge of the bed, the head could potentially wreck one side of the printer. This is described in question "How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?".
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Tags: marlin, bed-leveling, z-probe
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thread-21095 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21095 | Is a lighter magnetic pad better? | 2023-06-23T23:08:06.603 | # Question
Title: Is a lighter magnetic pad better?
I've had a magnetic sheet on my Ender 3 for some time. It came with a Creality 3D flexible bed. I've since got a couple of PEI coated steel plates and use it with that.
I noticed it had a lot of crud embedded in it, so since each of the coated steel beds came with a magnetic pad, I have a choice of pads to apply.
Since there seems little variation in the magnetism once the plate is fully over the pad. would I be better going for the lightest at around 120 g, or the heavier ones (at around 240 g) which do have a slightly stronger pull?
I'm intending to use a couple of ADXL345's to tune the resonance after I've reinstalled the bed.
# Answer
If you want/intend to print fast (high acceleration), adding mass to the moving bed is a big problem. It both decreases the resonant frequencies of the system (making it harder for input shaping to suppress them without introducing significant errors into the toolpath) and increases the force needed to accelerate the bed (making it easier to skip steps). So, all other things equal, you want to pick the lighter magnetic plate.
With that said, if you really want performance, the lightest plate is no plate. Myself and at least several other people I know doing high performance printing on bedslingers have dropped (or skipped adopting) the magnetic plates and gone to clip-on plates or no plates at all. I'm running my Ender 3 with "blue tape"/"painter's tape" directly on the aluminum bed (no separate buildplate) and others are using various surface treatments (variants on the old "ABS slurry", hairspray, etc. concepts) to print directly on aluminum. This saves a lot of mass, but can be less convenient for popping prints off.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bed, build-surface
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thread-21099 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21099 | Is Marlin 2.0 actually needed for Automatic Bed Leveling using FreeABL? | 2023-06-25T09:16:25.257 | # Question
Title: Is Marlin 2.0 actually needed for Automatic Bed Leveling using FreeABL?
I need Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL). I have seen this: FreeABL - the ultra cheap (free) ABL for Ender 3. However, after reading the description, I found out that I need to flash the firmware.
I had a lot of problems with this, so is it actually needed?
# Answer
No, Marlin 2.x is not necessary you could use 1.1.9 as well, but, you do need to flash a newly configured firmware as this hardware change is not standardly supported by the current firmware on your printer.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, firmware, automatic-bed-leveling
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thread-21108 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21108 | Can water or liquid nitrogen mist cooling be used in part cooling? | 2023-06-30T02:08:25.750 | # Question
Title: Can water or liquid nitrogen mist cooling be used in part cooling?
From what I know, the speed (X, Y) of the nozzle always be slowed down to 10 mm/s-100 mm/s when printing bridge or overhang structure because of insufficient cooling. The printing speed is less than 1/10 or even only 1/100 of the maximum speed (when \> 1000 mm/s). I saw someone bring up the idea of mist cooling in another question. Can we just use water mist cooling to cool the part? If not can we use liquid nitrogen mist cooling and make use of its evaporation heat absorption properly (when evaporated, it will turn into gas)
Printing material: PLA
# Answer
Liquid nitrogen cools surfaces in which contact between the liquid and the surface is achieved. Once the nitrogen becomes vapor, little to no cooling will be accomplished. One would not want to have liquid nitrogen in contact with a printing part, as the thermal shock will fracture the part as well as create thermal errors in the heater block and heated bed surface.
Water mist will deposit water on the part (if cooling is to be effected) and create similar thermal considerations, to a lesser degree compared to nitrogen.
If increased cooling is your goal, chilled dry air may be a solution with the smallest possibility of failure, although thermal errors on the heater block and heated bed should be expected.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, pla, nozzle, speed, cooling
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thread-21110 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21110 | Can the total runtime of an ender 5 be determined from the printer itself? | 2023-06-30T12:30:21.687 | # Question
Title: Can the total runtime of an ender 5 be determined from the printer itself?
You have 10 ender 5 printers in a college maker space environment, all vanilla hardware with stock firmware and no modifications. They are all the same age and visual have no noticeable differences in terms of wear and tear.
5 have basic colored pla filiment loaded, 5 have special material filiment loaded.which probably isn't relevant.
Paper logs are not kept of how long each machine is used for, only who is using the maker space on a given day.
Students may print from an SD card or connect a private laptop to print from, so no there are no server logs.
Is it possible to extract any information at all from the printer itself to determine how much it has been used. For example how many hour it has been powered on, how many hours it has been printing, or how much filiment it has passed?
It does not need to be granular, a simple life run total would do.
The aim is to help determine if someone has been running the printers overnight as a print farm without authorisation by seeing if they have more hours on them than could reasonable be accounted for through normal us inside maker space hours.
# Answer
The stock firmware of the printers in question is an old version of Marlin.
Marlin supports a `PRINTCOUNTER` if activated in the configuration.h file.
This can be read with the `M78` g-code command. Apparently, this function is not activated by default in Creality's firmware.
You may choose to build your own, much more up-to-date version of Marlin from scratch and enable this feature for future tracking. However, note that this can be reset with a `M78 S78` g-code command.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-5
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thread-21113 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21113 | Error "echo:too long extrusion prevented" when printing a model I made in Blender | 2023-07-01T09:04:28.507 | # Question
Title: Error "echo:too long extrusion prevented" when printing a model I made in Blender
I am new to 3D printing but decided to follow the build-your-own-printer route. It’s a simple design running on Marlin with a RAMPS 1.4 board.
So far I have printed the 2 mm calibration cube and two other small objects from Thingiverse and they all turn out fine. However, for over three weeks, I have been unsuccessfully trying to print a model I made in Blender. I keep getting an `echo: too long extrusion prevented` error on Pronterface and then the printer briefly pauses before resuming and afterward, the filament snaps out of the extruder or jams the nozzle leading to a failed print.
I have searched the internet for solutions and these are what I have done so far:
* I have reduced the voltage on the trim pot on the stepper driver (A4988) the heat sinks do seem to get pretty hot to the touch.
* I have reduced the print speed to 60%
* I have added a bed offset on the firmware to properly center the prints. (This seems to create other issues so I reversed it back to the way it was before)
Could someone please help me out here to understand what I am doing wrong? The part I am trying to print is actually meant to replace the wooden plate I used to carry one of the stepper motors.
I have attached a picture of my screen on Pronterface showing the model and the error message.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This error is nothing wrong with your printer, its electronics, print speed, or anything like that. It's erroneous gcode, produced by a buggy slicer, that emitted a command to extrude an inordinately large amount of filament at a time, in a way that could not possibly work. Your printer's firmware is protecting it from actually trying to do that.
To try to track down the problem, look at the gcode at the point where the error occurs. If you can't make sense of it, post the gcode file (or even better, just a block quote of the relevant part inline in your question) and someone should be able to explain what's going on and why it occurred.
Just upgrading your slicer might fix it, though.
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Tags: extruder
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thread-15882 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15882 | RAMPS 1.6 VCC and 5 V jumper issues | 2021-03-17T08:15:47.487 | # Question
Title: RAMPS 1.6 VCC and 5 V jumper issues
This is a bizarre issue.
Everything was working fine until a month ago. I upgraded to RAMPS 1.6 after my 1.4 board decided it wanted to go to the big chip in the sky. I ordered a kit to replace the 1.4 and the 2560. Everything was working fine. I notice my prints are quite a bit better. I then do a complete overhaul of the printer. New rods, bearings, belts, and a new Y-axis motor. Another test print and it honestly is the best print I have ever done.
What the heck, I'll add auto bed leveling. I install the BLTouch. Plug it in and no power (in my defense, I forgot about the VCC to 5 V jumper). So I find the new location of the jumper location and per every diagram I found, it is the two pins closest to the E0 motor connection. No problem. I power down, put the jumper on and...
I released the magic smoke from the 2560.
So I order another 2560. I check all the connections, connectors, pinouts, crimps, and do a full assessment. Everything looks good, everything is crimped correctly, the wires are in the right positions, so I turn it on and nothing happens. Good, I unplug it and put the jumper across VCC to 5 V and...
The magic smoke monster appears again.
Fine, I order another 2 boards. While I am at it, I order another RAMPS 1.6. New boards arrive and I swap out the 2560, this time I use another new 1.6 board and 2560. The only wires I connect are the power wires on the ramps board.
I turn the power on without the jumper. I measure voltage on VCC as 4.95 V. I confirm the 5 V pin has 0 V. I plug a jumper on VCC to 5 V again and...
Another magic smoke monster...
So I am thinking that it is a manufacturing issue. The only constant through the whole thing is that the 2560 boards have been from the same manufacturer. I know that this can be done as there are posts about it. I am seeking the forums opinion however. I do have 2 different 2560 boards coming.
I should also add that I dug out a spare 1.4 board, and that is working fine with the BLTouch and a new 2560 board installed albeit very slowly though.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I encountered a warning in the RepRap wiki regarding the same issue and checked my RAMPS 1.6 and found out I had the same issue.
In order to address the matter I de-soldered the J5 connectors and scratched the left side of +5 V pin as well as the bottom left corner of ps-on pin in order to disconnect the +5 V pin and rail from ground. I kept scratching lightly and checked whether the short was gone with a multi-meter in continuity mode until the beeping stopped.
I used the photo provided by RepRap showing where the short usually occurs along with the pads diagram file R6.PcbDoc from the GitHub repo which I opened using Altium's online viewer link as I didn't have it installed on my machine.
I hope anyone reading this finds it useful.
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Tags: troubleshooting, ramps
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thread-21119 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21119 | Potential consequences of stringing within support structures? | 2023-07-02T11:06:28.933 | # Question
Title: Potential consequences of stringing within support structures?
Creality Slicer has a setting labeled "Limit Support Retractions"
It's description is as follows
> Omit retractions when moving from support to support in a straight line. Enabling this setting saves print time, but can lead to excessive stringing within the support structure.
Presumably other slicing software has similar settings.
Could somebody please explain what the consequences of excessive stringing in the support structure could potentially be, and why you might want to avoid them, as the support structure is typically removed and discarded, so stringing wouldn't seem like a big problem.
# Answer
Potential consequences include:
* Structural problems from underextrusion (failure of support to hold up right) immediately after wherever the stringing happens. This is especially likely if you have lots of small supports for fine detail, where the problem will quickly accumulate.
* Strings getting dragged into places where they bond with the actual model and mar its surface.
* Support structures becoming brittle and breaking up/splittling at layers lines when you try to remove them, rather than coming off cleanly in chunks.
* In a worse case (most likely when stringing accumulates after travel to several very small support regions), underextrusion in the actual model immediately following printing of the supports, until the nozzle pressure can build back up to match the flow.
If you have a direct drive printer with very little oozing during travel, and have your travel speed and acceleration set high, it's possible that none of this will matter. I always had very bad results with "limit support retractions" and just turned it off. It only saves any significant time on printers that need long/slow retractions, which are typically the ones where it harms print quality the most. If you find your retractions are taking up signifcant time on a direct drive printer, you're either trying to do a 5-minute Benchy or your retraction settings are just way too long/slow.
> 1 votes
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Tags: software, creality, stringing
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thread-20408 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20408 | Ender 3 Pro has too much space between extruder and bed | 2023-01-02T01:21:00.430 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro has too much space between extruder and bed
I just finished assembling my Ender 3 Pro and am having trouble with bed leveling. The extruder doesn't even come close to the bed, the z-limit stops the nozzle about 3-4 mm away.
The leveling springs are already pretty uncompressed. Is there any way to decrease the gap? Should I be checking for a specific assembly step to see if I assembled it incorrectly somewhere?
# Answer
> 5 votes
There is only one thing you can do **if there are no more threads left on the levelling screws**, you need to move the Z-end stop assembly (depicted in the front left of your photo) to a lower position. Just unscrew the two hex screws a little and move the assembly down (blue arrow direction in the bottom/last image below). However, the more recent Ender 3 versions have a notch on the Z-end stop bracket:
That notch rests on the frame:
You should not be lowering this notch lower than the aluminum frame top.
Referring to your image and enlarging it, it appears you still have some threads left (encircled in red), this may be enough to get the bed to the nozzle (note that the leveling screw contains a knurled brass M3 insert, so you should be able to unscrew a little further):
If not, you should first unscrew the levelling screws a little so that you can properly tram the bed (alternatively, use longer countersunk screws). A detailed description can be found at All3DP's Ender 3 (Pro) Z Offset: How to Adjust It.
# Answer
> 2 votes
It's normal for your nozzle to be some distance away from the bed. It should be adjusted properly at first. Since, you can't move your nozzle any lower, you should follow these steps:
1. **Lowering Z-endstop**
You can manually reduce the distance between the nozzle and the bed by moving Z-endstop. Find the Z-axis limit switch (which is located on the left Z-axis on Ender-3) and loosen its screws. Next, set the switch a little lower to minimize Z-offset.
2. **Adjusting with bed leveling knobs**
It looks like you still have some space between the bed level knob and the bed. You can lower this distance by turning the knob clockwise (looking from the top). You should turn all four knobs exactly the same amount. Do not turn the knobs more than one turn, lower the Z-endstop first. This option should be executed last to calibrate the offset as precisely as possible.
The nozzle shouldn't be touching the build plate, because it will damage the printing surface. To check if the distance is set correctly, you can print **first layer test model**. It may be necessary to level the bed at first.
# Answer
> -1 votes
Based on your picture, I can tell that the leveling springs aren't standing straight up, rather they are leaning at an angle, making it so that full extension doesn't push the platform up as high as would be possible if they were straight. I had the exact same problem. I simply took a pen and nudged all the springs to make them stand up straight, and it solved the problem.
I know it doesn't look like it will help much, but trust me it does.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling
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thread-21124 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21124 | Ender 3 v2 Pro issue where nozzle has nearly fallen off | 2023-07-03T11:27:37.080 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 v2 Pro issue where nozzle has nearly fallen off
So, I was 3D printing a shark and a portal toy to sell for my company CCChoice overnight. I woke up in the morning to find the nozzle only hanging on by that one wire in the black mesh casing (images below). Every other place it was supposed to be attached it was detached from. The print didn't go too well either (image below). I don't know what attaches to what and where and am really confused. My backup printer is also out with a heating issue so I really have a problem. So, what caused this and how can I fix it, preferably without spending a bunch of money or taking a long time?
NOTE: I have an Ender 3 v2 Pro and use Ultimaker Cura with Polymaker's PLA 1 kg Orange filament and an 0.04 mm nozzle
# Answer
> 1 votes
So, I eventually managed to fix this, **but it only works for a few hours before the problem repeats. A full solution is welcome**. Here is an image below of a closeup
See that bottom black circle with 2 red circles inside of it? If you connect the 2 red circles then it will attach itself and the 2 red circles in the higher black circle will also latch together, reattaching the nozzle firmly. I still don’t know why this happened, but now it’s working.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, nozzle, creality
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thread-20613 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20613 | Ender 3 CR Touch UBL Fails to Produce Viable Mesh | 2023-02-23T19:03:55.567 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 CR Touch UBL Fails to Produce Viable Mesh
I've been getting deeper and deeper down the rabbit hole of UBL and I am losing my mind!
Just installed the CR Touch and I am having print issue after print issue with larger prints despite manually leveling the bed (bed adjustment not UBL manual) to the best of my ability.
* Ender 3 v1
* Board: Creality 4.2.7
* Firmware: Marlin 2.1.2
* Firmware config: `configuration.h`
* Hotend: Creality Direct Drive Sprite Pro
* UBL Sensor: CR Touch
The height map clearly shows an issue - I just don't know how to fix it.
Of note - `G29 P1` will only get through 44 of the 100 touchpoints
Here is the code I ran through to generate the mesh:
```
G28 ; home all axes
M420 S0 ; Turning off bed leveling while probing, if firmware is set
; to restore after G28
M155 S30 ; reduce temperature reporting rate to reduce output pollution
M190 S65 ; (optional) wait for the bed to get up to temperature
G29 P1 ; automatically populate mesh with all reachable points
G29 P3 ; infer the rest of the mesh values
G29 P3 ; infer the rest of the mesh values again
@BEDLEVELVISUALIZER ; tell the plugin to watch for reported mesh
M420 S1 V ; enabled leveling and report the new mesh
G29 S0 ; Save UBL mesh points to slot 0 (EEPROM).
G29 F 10.0 ; Set Fade Height for correction at 10.0 mm.
G29 A ; Activate the UBL System.
M500 ; save the current setup to EEPROM
M155 S3 ; reset temperature reporting
M140 S0 ; cooling down the bed
```
# Answer
Figured it out: human error.
I will document the steps I took to resolve nonetheless.
Originally was confused why the probe was failing to probe areas that were clearly in range of the probe head (left and bottom of the print bed) which had me incorrectly thinking the issue was with CRTouch.
Reflashed the firmware with the probe margin set to 2 mm instead of the default 10 mm which helped auto-probe the remaining areas the probe could reach.
```
#define PROBING_MARGIN 2
```
This made it abundantly clear I was an idiot as the probe could not physically reach the unpopulated areas in tandem with the direct drive Sprite hot end.
To complete the mesh I manually probed the three remaining corners (Mesh Edit option on the printer control panel) and then had the firmware smart auto-fill the remaining probe points using the terminal command `G29 P3`.
The outcome was an extremely accurate mesh that allows full use of the original Ender-3 v1 bed.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I don't know how useful this will be for you now, but I do have a couple of tidbits of info to help others who may have this question and find yours:
1. You can replace the stock screws on the Plate that carries the extruder (Carriage). The stock ones are (I believe) M5x30 mm screws, you can replace the top right and bottom (when looking at the carriage from the front) screws with M5x25 mm screws. If you put them in from the back, and use a shorter nut, you can achieve the same range of motion you normally have with the stock extruder.
2. If you're configuring your own firmware, in `Configuration_adv.h` in the Marlin Firmware source files, you will find a section called @section Leveling. Here, you can modify the probing margins per axis, per value. You can set both the `MESH_MIN` and `MESH_MAX` distances for both X and Y axis.
It should look something like this:
```
#if EITHER(MESH_BED_LEVELING, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)
// Override the mesh area if the automatic (max) area is too large
#define MESH_MIN_X 20
#define MESH_MIN_Y 20
#define MESH_MAX_X X_MAX_POS - 48
#define MESH_MAX_Y Y_BED_SIZE - (20)
#endif
```
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, marlin, firmware
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thread-18549 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18549 | What is the difference between PET/PETE and PETG? | 2021-12-12T19:58:11.590 | # Question
Title: What is the difference between PET/PETE and PETG?
I've heard that PETG, what we print with, is slightly different than PET or PETE, which is commercially available. Yet, PET bottles seem easy enough to recycle into prints according to these videos:
#1 Multicolor printing-Details of free filament production from recycled bottle (PET)for 3D printer
Precious Plastic channel
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqA-SppbeUi5ou0isB27mgg
What properties change between PET and PETG? Obviously, the additives will change, but what are the properties and parameters that change that make PETG more suited to 3D printing? Especially given the fact that PETG is fairly hygroscopic, which I believe took a while for the community to uncover.
While more science is better as far as an answer, please keep it relevant to practical 3D printing as well.
# Answer
I use PETG when I want the object to be somewhat rigid, but flexible enough not to break, especially object having thin parts. PETG is strong enough to print two layer 0.5 mm thick and be very flexible in the z direction, such as printing straps.
Basically PETG is amorphous while PET/PETE is crystalline. Amorphous gives a slightly lower melting point and less out-gassing, characteristics better for 3D printing. PETs crystal structure makes it more rigid than PETG, but leaves PETG more impact resistant and easier to print. The more rigid PET translates to more dimensional accuracy as with PLA.
From https://www.oberk.com/packaging-crash-course/differences-in-pet
> PETE (or PET)
> PETE is the most common variation of the thermoplastic polymer resin. The clarity of PET is considered to be the best of all plastics with very good chemical resistance. PETE is formed into containers via 1-Step or 2-Step Injection Blow Molding.
> PETG
> Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol (PETG) is an amorphous variation of PET. PETG cannot be oriented and therefore you will not find pre-forms of this type of resin. Extrusion, Injection Blow Moulding and 1-Step Injection Stretch Blow Moulding are all possible for PETG, it is also used frequently for 3D printing. Clarity and chemical resistance are considered good when compared to the previous three variations, however PETG has poor impact resistance.
Why is PETG used for 3D printing?
Quote from https://www.3dnatives.com/en/petg-3d-printing-guide-181220194/#!
> The characteristics of PETG
> PETG is therefore a copolymer, combining the properties of PET and glycol. The addition of the latter reduces the overheating issues of PET and therefore its brittle appearance. Among the main characteristics of PETG are its hardness, impact and chemical resistance, transparency and ductility. It is an easily extruded material with good thermal stability. It is particularly appreciated for its food compatibility. On the downside, note that it requires a heating plate to avoid the warping effects found in ABS 3D printing – even if the warping rate is low, it is better to use a BuildTak sheet to make sure the material grips. It is also more prone to scratches than PLA. Finally, it can quickly take moisture and will keep better in a cool and dry environment.
> 2 votes
# Answer
To add to Perry's answer, which is already very informative:
PETG is subject to creep (permanent deformation under continuous mechanical load), especially at temperatures above room temperature. As a result, many 3D printer designs utilizing printed parts caution against using PETG. PET is generally regarded as not subject to creep below around 80°C.
Unlike PETG, which is amorphous and does not crystallize, PET can be annealed (made to crystallize intentionally after printing is complete) at temperatures between 80 and 100 °C, after which it can handle loads at higher temperatures, reportedly up to 100 °C. However, annealing produces some dimensional changes, which may make it difficult to utilize this property.
PETG has considerably lower glass transition temperature, melting point, and heat deflection temperature than PET.
While this varies by PETG formulation, generally PET can (and often must, due to crystallization concerns when printing slow) be printed at much higher speeds than PETG.
PETG gunks up and sticks badly to most nozzle materials when printing. Certain coated nozzles, and tungsten carbide nozzles, can significantly reduce but not eliminate this effect. PET does not gunk up or stick to the nozzle.
PET is less sensitive to buildplate temperature, and can even be printed on an unheated bed, although this may lead to corners lifting without sufficient adhesion. PETG is very hard to print well without high bed temperature; layer delamination and failure of first or second layer to adhere are common issues with insufficient heat.
PET has extreme layer bonding, giving near or fully isotropic part strength. PETG generally has issues with delamination/separation at layer lines. In my experience, it is far worse than PLA in this regard.
> 1 votes
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Tags: petg, pet
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thread-21118 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21118 | Set Ultimaker Cura 5.1 default save name | 2023-07-02T00:45:28.763 | # Question
Title: Set Ultimaker Cura 5.1 default save name
I use SD cards to print on a Printrbot Simple Metal, and the Simple will automatically print the file named `auto0.g`. The issue here is that Cura, by default, saves files as something like `PS-part.gcode`. So, is there a way to make it save under the name `auto0.g` by default?
Cura Version: 5.1
# Answer
> 1 votes
Cura by default prefixes the saved g-code with the machine name, I take it yours is named Printrbot Simple Metal or something similar, so Cura assigns it the "PS-" prefix.
To disable this, you can click on 'Preferences' in Menu Bar on the top left of the Window, and go to `Preferences > General > Opening and Saving Files` and deselect the option "Add machine prefix to job name."
You can also save your 3D model files as auto0.g, and when Cura loads, slices, and then saves the G-Code file, it will be named auto0.g.
Beyond that, there's the little Pen/Paper icon in the bottom left, just above the perspective buttons (cubes) to rename the file before saving it. AFAIK, there is no way to save the G-Code automatically with a different name than the file/model you loaded into it.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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