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thread-21104
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21104
|
Draw from the top or draw from the bottom?
|
2023-06-28T14:32:58.237
|
# Question
Title: Draw from the top or draw from the bottom?
From day one I've always had my spool so that filament comes off "the top", but recently I wondered if it mattered, or there were any advantages/disadvantages to which side of the spool the filament came from. I did find this, but it proved inconclusive. So, does it matter which side of the spool the filament comes from. Are their any pros/cons to either side? Or is this just a matter of personal preference?
# Answer
It just depends on your set-up. Ideally, you don't want to have the filament entering the extruder at too great of an angle, so depending on where your extruder is and how filament is fed into it will determine which way your spool should go.
> 1 votes
# Answer
As Echo has said, it's not really that big of a deal. I usually just stick to having the filament coming over the spool and I've rarely seen it another way. It's what made sense to me with the fact I have a stand for the spools attached to the frame of the printer along the top. It's really just personal preference.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament
---
|
thread-21134
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21134
|
Add "Elephant's Foot" in Cura
|
2023-07-04T06:36:40.610
|
# Question
Title: Add "Elephant's Foot" in Cura
Ok, I know this is quite weird since basically, we want to avoid elephant's foot. But my case is: I want to print some thin/tall stuff which I don't want to lay them down and sometimes it gives me some warped outcomes.
I try some different things and find it if I manually add a thin but big first few layers. It will generate a pretty good result consistently. (And the "Manually Added Elephant Foot" is also easy to be removed)
I'm wondering if I can let the slicer help me add the "elephant foot" as a kind of "support"
Can someone help me to do that or tell me actually I cannot do that?
# Answer
**Use a brim:**
(I'll assume you're using Cura since you didn't provide FCI.)
Navigate to **Print Settings** \> **Build Plate Adhesion** and select **Brim** on the **Build Plate Adhesion Type** dropdown.
You could also use a raft though it seems unwise in this case. For more on brims and rafts, see All3DP.com's article "Raft vs Brim vs Skirt: The Differences (incl. Cura settings)".
> 1 votes
---
Tags: slicing, support-structures, warping
---
|
thread-17870
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/17870
|
Why do I keep getting a thermal runaway message?
|
2021-08-06T23:21:25.113
|
# Question
Title: Why do I keep getting a thermal runaway message?
A few weeks ago I got a thermal runaway message on my modded Ender 3 during a print, and I have not been able to get it working since then! I have tried fixing and replacing everything, and I still keep getting the message!
When the printer starts/heats up, the thermistor is able to read the temperature with no problem, but when a print starts, the thermistor starts reading strangely and I get the thermal runaway message! Basically, whenever I start a print the temperature being read slowly drops until it gets to around 20 degrees below the set temperature. I then get the thermal runaway message.
So far, in an attempt to fix it, I have replaced the thermistor twice, the heating element, the wiring was replaced, the firmware and even the entire motherboard! I have no idea how/why I’m still having the message, it just doesn’t make sense.
Also, the thermistor is snuggly attached to the printer.
Please note I’ve tried another thermistor that was glass and had the exact same issues. This lead me to think that this had something to do with the heating element being overwhelmed by something. So, as a test I simply just extruded filament from my nozzle with my fan on to see if that would have the same effect and it didn’t! The temperature stayed up fine. This is leading me to believe that this is some sort of issue with starting a print. Maybe a G-code issue.
# Answer
If the error only happens when the printer starts moving it's logical that the issue is in the wire loom that starts to bend and flex once the print starts.
As a quick test and if your comfortable with a little wiring work a temporarily line could be connected directly from the sensor to board. Skipping rewiring the loom until its confirmed to be the issue.
Same logic for the heater wires if it has a connector at the extruder.
Another potential cause for this is if the extruder is already near printing temperature and a new print is started, the printer could think that the temperature shot up way faster then expected even though in reality it was just a bit preheated. If you made any changes to your start G-code, like changing the heating command type or order in witch the extruder/bed is heated, see this stack: Thermal runaway triggers when raising temperature amid cooldown.
Edit: This video demonstrates a test to show if Thermal Runaway is enabled. While this setting is not in question here it might be a way to troubleshoot the underling cause for this kind of issue. If the extruder temperatures drop rapidly the same way it does when a print is attempted it might show that the temperature sensor is reading the correct temperature. And thus may indicate a issue with the extruder heating system and not the temperature sensor itself.
> 1 votes
# Answer
if the connection to the heaters (nozzle and bed) are not broken and work during printing, and if the thermistor is reading the correct temperature, then maybe it is the power supply.
During printing the stepper motors are also consuming energy. If the energy output of the power supply is not enough for the stepper motors and the heaters than the temperatures could go down.
But such an undervoltage situation should also be noticeable in other parts of the printer.
Therefore to be sure that the thermistors are working, try to measure the temperatures with a thermometer. This way you can verify that the temperature change is real.
Another test would be to remove the filament before printing and print without filament. This way the nozzle heater will use much less power, with everything else being the same.
The nozzle heater is temperature controlled. When printing with filament the pushed in filament will cool the nozzle and the heater needs to heat the nozzle up again. With no filament pushed through the nozzle basically stays at the temperature, only cooled by the surrounding air. Therefore much less energy is needed to keep the nozzle at temperature.
If the issue is with the bed heater then move the bed to different positions and wait if the temperature stays the same. If the temperature goes down in a position then the cable for the heater is broken and makes no contact went bend for that position.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I've had this problem on a Prusa MK2s. The print was always at the center of the build plate and that's the location (underneath) of the thermistor. The part was small, the cooling fan was chilling the bed at the same time it was trying to maintain temperature. Moving the part a few centimeters away from the center resolved the problem.
In the case of this PEI coated bed, always centering the print caused the PEI to wear in that area, requiring replacement. The operators were informed to place the build in random, non-centered locations in the future.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Soo I cleaned my hot end completely took it all apart cleaned it inside and out put it back together and I fix my thermal runaway e1 now my printer runs fine I'd say start there
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, thermistor, thermal-runaway
---
|
thread-21136
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21136
|
Prusa MK3s+, Prusa PETG 1.75mm filament
|
2023-07-04T13:42:44.270
|
# Question
Title: Prusa MK3s+, Prusa PETG 1.75mm filament
I encountered a case of pillowing throughout several layers that was very severe, however, I managed to fix it through adjusting the temperatures but I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there any any other cases of this and if they have found a trustworthy way to solve the problem if it occurs repeatedly as it has slowly started to re-appear in different prints after I have rectified the problem, and I haven't altered any of the previous settings I altered to fix it.
I am now encountering this problem again and I really don't know what can cause it, I'm unable to dehydrate my filament anyway due to a lack of means to do so and I used a brand new spool to print this piece that has had pillowing yesterday (July 6th)
# Answer
> 1 votes
Without an example photo, it's difficult to be certain, but moisture in a filament spool can cause undesired effects in a print. Even a new-in-the-box, vacuum-sealed-plastic-bag spool can present these effects.
Consider to perform a dehydration on your filament and create another test print.
---
Tags: prusa-i3
---
|
thread-21131
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21131
|
Will active chamber heating with heating bed and PTC heater (forced convection by fan) be better than passive chamber heating with only bed?
|
2023-07-04T04:16:24.387
|
# Question
Title: Will active chamber heating with heating bed and PTC heater (forced convection by fan) be better than passive chamber heating with only bed?
1.Active chamber heating (fan forced convection +heating bed +PTC heater) vs 2.Passive chamber heating(natural convection+ heating bed)
In the book "3D Printing Failures\_ 2020 Edition\_ How to Diagnose and Repair ALL Desktop 3D Printing Issues" writen by Aranda, Sean, it is said less cooling rate could let polymer have more temperature and time to release stress. This is the reason why chamber heating is used. But
1. In the design 1 chamber above bed is already \>50℃ with 120℃ heating bed.
2. In another design "120℃ bed with PTC supplyment which is cycled by a fan and the chamber can be up to \>60℃". It forms forced convection, so the printed part may be cooled quickly even though the chamber has up to 60℃ temperature(the temperature difference between printed layer and ambient changes slightly).
So why we use chamber heating with fan forced convection design other than natural convection deign?
* Printed material: ABS
* Bed temperature: 120℃
# Answer
> 0 votes
Having forced convection allows to flow air on top of the heater so that more heat will be pushed into the chamber. Also, it makes the chamber uniform.
If you are barely heating the chamber (50 °C) the bed can already do it, while forced will cool down the part more quickly. Forced convection has almost only downsides, no advantages.
If you are heating the chamber to higher temperatures like 70-120 °C or more, the printed part has no problem about being cooled too much, and at the same time the bed set at 120 °C will not be able to heat up the chamber that much (or you need 2 cm thermal insulation around the chamber). Forced in this case has no downsides and only advantages.
---
Tags: heated-bed, abs, heat-management, warping, chamber
---
|
thread-13294
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13294
|
Prusa slicer and support material
|
2020-04-01T07:27:38.043
|
# Question
Title: Prusa slicer and support material
I usually use `Slic3r 1.3` but now I'm trying the new `PrusaSlicer 2.2` that offers new features.
I see that PrusaSlicer creates a lot of support material when compared to `Slic3r`:
this involves two problems:
1. A lot of material is wasted
2. The structure is very difficult to separate from the model
This is my configuration panel in Prusa:
Is it just a settings problem?
# Answer
In my opinion, PrusaSlicer aims for the most robust printing process at the cost of a higher demand for material in the standard configuration.
I totally agree with @0scar that the small pillars have a high tendency of falling over with increasing height of the print.
To handle the waste of material you could use the feature "Paint-On Supports" (since version 2.3) to tell the software where support material has to be used. The feature can be found on the left panel while on "3D-Editor View". This is an extra step to prepare your model, but to speed up your post-processing I think it should be worth it. Prusa improved the modifier by "you get what you click". If you want to stay in Version 2.2, I think you have to use the generic modifiers, which are a lot more time-consuming to set up.
Paint-on supports @Prusa Knowledge Base
> 5 votes
# Answer
Additionally for those who may not know, (I'm fully aware this post is a few years old) there are improvements that come with PrusaSlicer 2.6 in terms of options for cutting prints along a plane, adding pegs to those cut prints and organic supports, just for those who may not be aware.
Additional details can be found in the article from Tom's Hardware "New Features Added to PrusaSlicer 2.6 Alpha Release".
> 3 votes
---
Tags: slicing, slic3r, support-structures
---
|
thread-21148
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21148
|
Prusa MK3s+ potential extrusion problem
|
2023-07-06T07:58:40.767
|
# Question
Title: Prusa MK3s+ potential extrusion problem
I've recently tried printing something I've printed multiple times but this time it isn’t printing much at all. It seems to inly be printing a very small film of filament rather than a solid layer in places and even on the solid base layer the first time I tried printing it. I'm not sure whether it could be an under extrusion problem or I might even have to raise the z calibration. Has anyone seen this before and does anyone have any possible solutions? Would be much appreciated I need to set this print going ASAP
# Answer
> 1 votes
I figured out that it was due to the Z axis calibration on my Prusa MK3S+ so I started a "First Layer Calibration" and reset the variable previously used to get a more accurate calibration
---
Tags: prusa-i3, prusaslicer
---
|
thread-21150
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21150
|
Stripped screw hole on 3D printer extruder motor
|
2023-07-06T11:29:22.723
|
# Question
Title: Stripped screw hole on 3D printer extruder motor
I have managed to strip the threads on the mounting holes of the motor. The extruder motor doesn't stay in place of the Bowden mount. It kinks to the left-hand side when the motor is extruding. I was wondering if could I repair the stripped hole or do I need a new motor?
# Answer
There are several different fixes for this if you have the materials on hand and a bit of experience with them:
1. You can try to remove the top plate and re-tap the holes to fit a slightly bigger screw. This may require re-drilling the holes on the top motor plate, as well as the holes in the mounting bracket. You'll need a bench-mounted vice to hold the motor plate in place, as well as a drill, small drill bits, the tapping tool (I suggest a hand tapper if this is your first time) some lubricant, and the larger screws. It may be more cost-effective to just buy a new motor. If you intend to go down this option, I suggest looking up several youtube videos on how to drill and tap holes before you begin and keep in mind that there are sensitive parts on the inside of the motor, so you really should remove the top plate before drilling/tapping.
2. If your printer is printing "good enough" you can try printing a plastic mount to hold the motor in place. Just a note, this is not going to be a permanent fix, as the plastic can and will break down over time and use.
3. If neither of the top two options sounds appealing, I highly suggest you take the advice from this answer and just buy a new motor. It will definitely be easier work for you to replace the motor than repair it, and it may end up being more cost-effective.
> 2 votes
# Answer
By the sound of it however, I would replace the damaged part as if the motor doesn't stay on the extruder, and there is a kink in extruding, I suggest replacing the part rather then trying a quick fix and it doing either nothing or making things worse.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: motor
---
|
thread-21152
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21152
|
Print in the first layers keeps failing on new Anycubic Kobra
|
2023-07-06T17:07:51.733
|
# Question
Title: Print in the first layers keeps failing on new Anycubic Kobra
I'm not new to 3D printing, but I have always used resin 3D printers. Now I have bought an Anycubic Kobra and I'm trying out ABS. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong, I have tried many different settings, but I am skeptic to move away too much from the recommended settings of Anycubic that can be found on their website. As per picutres below, my prints keep failing in the initial layers, but I can't figure out what is wrong. Is it layer height?
The temperature I use is 100°C/250°C. All the rest is default settings of Anycubic because I'm not sure what I should try.
# Answer
This looks like over-extrusion on the first layer. There are a number of reasons why this could be happening, but usually, it's because the nozzle is too close to the bed. The link posted is a huge resource for getting a decent first layer. You'll need to *tram* or level the bed. (Tramming is the proper term, but the two are used interchangeably) To do this you can follow the guide in the link provided, though I'll also type my personal process out here if you want to read it twice.
You'll need:
* A piece of regular printer paper
* A way to interface with your printer, the normal control screen is fine
* Your printer
* I like to have a light shine behind the printer as I do this, it's not necessary
* You can replace the piece of paper with a set of feeler gauges if you have them, we'll use the 0.2 mm one.
To properly tram the bed:
1. Home the X, Y, and Z axes
2. Move the print head/nozzle/hotend to the back-left corner.
3. Set the Z-axis height to 0.1 mm, this is the average width of a piece of printer paper. Or, if you're using the 0.2 mm feeler gauge, set it to 0.2 mm.
4. If your bed sits higher or lower than your printer expects (for example, if you've replaced the stock bed) you may have to set this higher or lower to compensate for the width of the new bed.
5. Slide the piece of paper under the nozzle, in between it and the bed, and slowly adjust the knob until you feel some resistance while sliding the paper. You don't want a lot of resistance, just a little scratchy feeling is what you'll want.
6. Repeat step 5 for the back right, front right, and front left corners (in that order).
7. Go back to the back left corner and re-do the paper process again for all of the corners a couple more times, just to make sure it's well within the range.
8. Validate your tramming with a bed level test. This will show you if your corners/center are within tolerance or not, so you know where to make adjustments.
Lastly, here's a resource for some of the more common problems FDM printers face. I hope this wasn't a massive info dump, all at once, and that this helps you resolve the issue you're having!
> 1 votes
---
Tags: layer-height, print-failure, anycubic-kobra-max, anycubic-kobra-neo
---
|
thread-21157
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21157
|
AnkerMake M5 Z-axis homing fail
|
2023-07-07T15:04:31.480
|
# Question
Title: AnkerMake M5 Z-axis homing fail
I recently had a big mess in my printer head in my AnkerMake M5 and had to replace the entire print head. When I replaced it, I went to test the axes to make sure they were still aligned, but now I'm getting a Z-axis homing error. I've noticed that while homing, it moves down, up, then down again, but the second time it goes down, only one side goes down (the left side). I'm not sure what to do about it and Anker's help pages aren't seeming to help me either.
I have a video showing the behavior.
I'm not quite sure how to diagnose this, any tips?
# Answer
> 1 votes
AnkerMake seems to be aware of this problem. Their support website has a section dedicated to correcting homing failures here.
Besides this, you'll want to make sure you didn't accidentally unplug or tug on other cables while replacing the printer head. Make sure *all* of the connections are snug, and the pins are pushed in all the way. Also make sure that the Z-axis lead screws aren't bent or sideways, as this can cause binding which could be stopping your right side from lowering properly.
---
Tags: homing
---
|
thread-21093
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21093
|
G29 Sometimes fails - Defective probe?
|
2023-06-23T11:27:52.630
|
# Question
Title: G29 Sometimes fails - Defective probe?
I have the issue that `G29` does work as expected but then fails a couple of times at different measuring points after taht it succeeds again.
So I decided to enable debugging for leveling by `M111 S32`:
```
Recv: <<< do_blocking_move_to X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1500
Recv: current_position= X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499 : sync_plan_position
Recv: <<< Probe::probe_down_to_z X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499
Recv: Probe fail! - No trigger.
Recv: <<< Probe::run_z_probe X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499
Recv: current_position= X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499 : Probe::set_deployed
Recv: deploy=0 no_return=0
Recv: Raise Z to 5.0000
Recv: do_z_clearance(5.0000 [1.1499 to 7.1500], 0)
Recv: do_blocking_move_to_z(7.1500, 4.1667)
Recv: >>> do_blocking_move_to X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499
Recv: > X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
[...]
Recv: <<< do_blocking_move_to X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: >>> Probe::probe_specific_action X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: BLTouch STOW requested
Recv: BLTouch from 10 to 90
Recv: bltouch.stow_proc() end
Recv: <<< Probe::probe_specific_action X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: >>> do_blocking_move_to X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: > X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: <<< do_blocking_move_to X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: //action:notification Probing Failed
Recv: Error:Probing Failed
WARNING! Received an error from the printer's firmware, ignoring that as configured but you might want to investigate what happened here! Error: Probing Failed
```
Does `Probe fail! - No trigger.` mean the probe has a defect so that it sometimes does not trigger?
# Answer
I've changed the probe to a CR-10 model. The one with the metal pin. No Issues anymore. I didn't even change the wire. So either the probe or the pin was bad. ♂️
> 0 votes
---
Tags: bltouch
---
|
thread-21147
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21147
|
Lines next to each other separated; is this right?
|
2023-07-05T15:05:03.403
|
# Question
Title: Lines next to each other separated; is this right?
I received a completely new Elegoo Neptune 3 pro a few days ago and it prints very well. But there is one thing that bothers me a little bit, the lines next to each other when looking from above are a little bit separated:
The photo is not really good but you can see it a little bit on the screw holes on the bottom. In reality, it is worse. I already tried adjusting the line width up by 0.05 but it didn't help.
Which other settings would make it better or do I just need to do much more width?
My settings:
* Infill density: 15%
* Quality: 0.2 mm
* Temp: 200 °C
* Build Plate Temp: 60 °C
* Line width: 0.47 mm
* Speed: 60 mm/s
* Material: PLA
# Answer
When gaps happen on **the first layer of the print**, this is caused by the first layer Z being too high, so that the extrusion is not being properly flattened between the build plate and the nozzle. (If the height is too low instead, then you will get ripples visible in large bottom infill areas.)
If they happen **throughout the print** then the extruder is **under-extruding** — less volume of plastic is being deposited than the slicer thinks will be. This means that one of these might be the case:
* Something physical is causing the filament to slip as the extruder motor pushes it:
+ Drive gear teeth clogged (poor grip)
+ Nozzle clogged (increases back-pressure)
+ Temperature too low (increases back-pressure)
* Your filament is narrower than your slicer expects. Measure it with calipers (at several rotations in case it is not entirely round) and enter the actual diameter into the slicer.
* Your filament is soft or otherwise oddly behaved, and doesn't interact with the extruder gears like the extruder design assumed it would.
* The printer's firmware is incorrectly configured for the extruder hardware; it is not sending the correct number of steps per requested length of filament.
As a “quick fix” or to compensate for properties of a particular filament, you can set an “extrusion multiplier” to scale up or down the amount of plastic extruded. However, if the problem is happening for many ordinary filaments, then there is more likely a printer problem.
---
Changing the slicer's line width will not help, because that will make the lines farther apart at the same time as it extrudes more volume per line.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality
---
|
thread-7891
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7891
|
Printing rectangular grid
|
2019-01-07T07:37:34.100
|
# Question
Title: Printing rectangular grid
I am trying to print an item with a rectangular grid (using PLA on Ultimaker 2+):
Holes are 4x4 mm, distance between holes (wall thickness): 1mm. I am printing with 0.4 mm nozzle.
Unfortunately, Ultimaker Cura generates G-code which prints each rectangle on its own and in a quite a bad way:
The printer head tries to draw a rectangle, then moves in the direction opposite to a last laid line, which with not perfect adhesion of single line messes up the print pretty badly: it often picks up last rectangle side and drags it.
Any way to change the way Ultimaker Cura approaches to lay out the grid? I would imagine that long lines that are connected to other lines would adhere to bed much better than individual squares, but I don't see any options that would allow to alter it.
# Answer
Slicers never create a grid by crossing the already printed lines - they print perimeters and thicken them into a shell. So if the picture that is to be printed is a #, it does not lay down first the || and then the = crossing over it, it lays down an inner square and then builds the rest to get to the shape. This operation rule is held for *shells*, but not for *infill* patterns.
As you describe the printer picking up the printed, you have adhesion problems and your first layer might be not level or too thick.
You might also want to enable "print thin walls" and use 2 or 3 perimeters.
> 6 votes
# Answer
This sounds like you have an adhesion problem if it catches laid down filament, you might want to address that first. E.g. use a PVA based glue or spray to get better adhesion. This will result in not dragging laid down filament.
To my knowledge, Ultimaker Cura has no option to choose how you print the squares (direction and start point). However, ***you could use Z-hop*** so that it will lift your nozzle (or lower your build plate in your case) prior to moving to the next rectangle.
It looks as though you are using an older version of Ultimaker Cura as it only prints one line of each of the small rectangular holes (or are you actually using a single wall/shell), in later versions of Ultimaker Cura this is fixed (e.g. the image below is created with Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1), it will print all walls/shells before commencing to the next small rectangular hole. This way you have more lines deposited which have a possible better adhesion to the increase of laid down material:
Further investigation of your image shows that you are using a very fine grating (\< 1 mm?) resulting in very limited amount of walls. In your case the version is not that important, but the latter information is just left as a possibility for people that use an older version of Ultimaker Cura.
Also note that there is an option to put the brim on the inside of your models (option called `Brim Only on Outside`), when disabled, this would also increase the surface area for better adhesion.
---
*There are also option available to start with the outer or inner wall (option `Outer Before Inner Walls`), but in this case that would not help you as there is only 1 wall at each side of the rectangular hole.*
> 5 votes
# Answer
1. Use the latest stable Cura 3.6.0
2. Ensure that the setting "Wall Line Count" \> 1, recommended value is 3-4
3. Uncheck the setting flag "Outer Before Inner Walls"
> 1 votes
# Answer
Try slicing with 0 perimeters (so it's all infill).
> 1 votes
# Answer
Perhaps a slicer is not the ideal tool for this application. It should be possible to use the slicer to generate a 'framework' file, doing coordinate conversions, setup and such, and then write raw G-code or a script to do so.
Whether you find that a desirable approach is another question.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: pla, ultimaker-cura, slicing
---
|
thread-21166
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21166
|
Ender 3 filament retracts on its own
|
2023-07-09T21:05:43.597
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 filament retracts on its own
While printing flat surfaces the filament would begin to retract by itself, even if the printer is actively extruding it. I've been remedying it by occasionally pushing the filament by hand, has anyone had this issue in the past or has any idea how to fix it?
* Slicer: Cura v.5.4.0
* Retraction: off
* Flow rate: 75% (calibrated after installing new extruder)
* Printer: Ender 3
* Leveling done via BLTouch (Z offset calibrated to be 0.1 mm from print bed)
* E steps calibrated properly
* Hotend temp: 200 °C
* Print bed temp: 50 °C
* Filament type: PLA
* Filament brand: Creality grey 1 kg
# Answer
This can happen if your nozzle is too close to the bed (too low Z-offset). Check your first layer thickness. It should be a slightly squished bead. Not a smeared line.
When the nozzle is too close to the bed, the filament can't come out and the extruder skips steps. When a bowden extruder skips steps, the filament is actually retracted a bit because of the tension built up in the tube.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: extruder, filament, retraction
---
|
thread-21173
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21173
|
Hotend moves to rear of build plate and extrudes
|
2023-07-11T14:02:51.370
|
# Question
Title: Hotend moves to rear of build plate and extrudes
I have an Ender 3 and have a similar problem as mentioned in I have an Ender-3 Pro, the platform goes to the right rear every time I try to start a print job.
My hotend and build plate reach temp, BLTouch homes centre of build plate, plate moves forward then "grinding noise" hotend moves to right at the rear of plate and starts to extrude filament then I have to reboot, reheat bed and hotend, select model and print this enables it to print. I have replaced the mother board, flashed with latest Marlin firmware: but this made no difference!
The fact that it prints after reboot suggest to me it can't be a firmware issue.
# Answer
This is very hard to answer as there is not much information to solve this, read this answer as an advice to troubleshoot the problem. You should create some basic G-code files manually to sort this out to e.g. rule out slicing problems (this is where the question is not clear about).
Basically, the printer knows the coordinate system once it has homed all axes when properly configured in firmware. So, creating a basic file containing homing `G28`, leveling `G29`. Now, the print head should be at the last probed position. You now could add `G0 X0 Y0 F400` to slowly advance to the origin. You can add another line to move to the max X, Y position, `G0 X200 Y200 F400` (200 x 200 mm bed assumed). If the head positions correctly, your firmware is okay, you then need to find the solution in the slicing, else you need to fix the firmware settings.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-21164
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21164
|
One of my Ender 3 gantry POM wheels never touches z-axis aluminium beam
|
2023-07-09T16:14:05.073
|
# Question
Title: One of my Ender 3 gantry POM wheels never touches z-axis aluminium beam
**Red wheel does not touch aluminium beam**
I was checking the POM wheels of my printer, since I have a minor banding issue with my prints.
I noticed that the wheel marked in red never touches the beam no matter how tight the eccentric nut on the right green wheel is tightened.
Things I have already tried:
1. Replacing all three POM wheels
2. Tightening eccentric nut on the right wheel
3. Check if the z-axis beams are square
4. Making sure the holes on the bracket and on the gantry are square/centered
Any ideas on what the root cause the problem could be? I am thinking the easiest solution would be to add a second eccentric nut to the offending wheel?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your right (undriven) side Z carriage is out of square, and is deflecting the gantry.
Imagine the left side Z carriage wasn't attched to the gantry at all, just on its own. The only way one of the two wheels without the eccentric nut, on the outer side, could be loose, is if the wheel with the eccentric nut, on the inner side, were not tight.
So start by disassembling the system and attaching the gantry only on the driven-side carriage, i.e. in a cantilever configuration. Do this without the X carriage attached so gravity isn't fighting it, and ensure it's square to the frame and that the eccentric nut is tightened enough there's no play. You should be able to rotate any one of the wheels with manual force while holding another still, but if you don't hold one still, rotating any wheel by hand should move the carriage and cause all three wheels to turn.
It's possible that the bolts holding the gantry to the carriage don't have it aligned square; if it's off, you'll have to take it off the top to adjust. These bolts need to be *really tight* or they'll tend to self-loosen and throw everything out of wack again.
Once you have the driven-side carriage bolted to the gantry tightly square, it's time to do the undriven side. Start by adjusting the eccentric nut to get the carriage snug, and only then bolt it to the gantry.
Confirm that it moves all the way up and down the Z axis without binding. If the Z extrusions are not parallel or if either of them is bent, you'll have problems and you need to go back and fix that before connecting the undriven side to the gantry again.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, pom
---
|
thread-21180
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21180
|
Automatic support removal and depowdering
|
2023-07-16T10:04:03.270
|
# Question
Title: Automatic support removal and depowdering
We are working with 3D-printed metals. The printed models have to be manually post-processed. The supports need to be removed and depowdering (grinding the metal so it's smooth) has to be done.
This post process takes a long time. I did search for solutions that automate that procedure. I could not find any examples.
Do you maybe know about example projects in which the post process was fully or partially automated?
# Answer
## Two-step machining
The only way that *automatically* can depowder and smooth a metal print after its creation that I can think of is deliberately printing the item solid and oversized and including a holding stem. Then the holding stem is chucked into a 5-axis CNC mill, the item indicated in, and milled to shape.
However, this process is not faster than traditional machining but in fact slower.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: post-processing
---
|
thread-19937
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19937
|
Thermal Runaway E1 Error, Extruder text jumps randomly
|
2022-09-17T03:13:26.047
|
# Question
Title: Thermal Runaway E1 Error, Extruder text jumps randomly
Ender 3 Pro, everything is stock except that I swapped the magnetic sheet for a glass bed.
As the tin says, I'll get this error around a half hour into a print:
```
THERMAL RUNAWAY: E1
PRINTER HALTED
Please Reset
```
I recorded it in the act, and here's some info I've collected:
The Extruder temp isn't consistent. It's set to 200 °C (Cura default), but will often wander around in the 197 °C-202 °C range.
There are random severe spikes where it will instantly go from 200 °C to 190 °C, then climb up to 205 °C.
About 5 minutes before error, it instantly dropped from 200 °C to 170 °C, then 180 °C, then 190 °C, then chilbed back up to 200 °C.
The error popped in when the extruder was at 190 °C.
See, it seems to jump around in an odd pattern, not just smoothly transitioning to a lower temperature. This leads me to suspect it's a sensor issue.
*However*, around the time these jumps were occurring, the plastic wouldn't adhere to the plate correctly. Some parts wouldn't stick:
Compare the bottom (printed first) to the top (printed last). A lot of edges are popping up (although the bottom isn't perfect either).
This wasn't an issue until I moved my printer to the basement (from my bedroom) for a 30-hour print. I had it running for ~14 hours straight before my first encounter with this error. The temperate difference between my room and the basement is minimal.
I also leveled the bed before re-trying, which didn't solve the issue.
I am new to this, I got the printer 3 weeks ago. Extensive googling has resulted in many different solutions, but none specific to my printer's temperature situation. I post this hoping to find clarification for myself and provide a concise description of the problem so others down the line can find the solution easier.
# Answer
Usually this is due to a wiring issue to the thermistor (or, less likely, thermistor itself may be damaged). Check the integrity of your wires everywhere, especially at the thermistor end (easily damaged when cleaning hotends, changing nozzles, etc.).
An insulating silicone "sock" wouldn't hurt either against real temperature fluctuations, but these seem like phantom, electrically-based fluctuations.
> 1 votes
# Answer
What worked for me was switching the voltage switch on the back of the printer from 230 volt to 115. I had missed the step during the build to switch to my power outlet's voltage.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, extruder, temperature, thermal-runaway
---
|
thread-21201
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21201
|
3d model thickened but still hollow; problems printing it
|
2023-07-21T15:50:49.763
|
# Question
Title: 3d model thickened but still hollow; problems printing it
I started fiddling with Blender this week as I bought a 3D model of a backpack that I wanted to 3D print. In order to get Lychee to print it, I had to use a back-and-forth combination of Blender and an stl repair service online. When Lychee was finally able to fill the holes and accept the geometry, I realized that the model that I originally thickened was still hollow inside. When printed, certain surfaces fail to print because it is too thin. Right now I'm trying to use Tinkercad to import my stl file, make it hollow, put on solid over it to make a mold, make the mold hollow, and fill the mold with a solid to get a positive of my 3D model.
It doesn't seem to work, and I'd like to ask for some help to find a solution. Please see below what my 3D model looks like when sliced :
I used the displacement tool to thicken my model because the solidify tool was causing issues when importing the model in Lychee. Maybe I was doing something wrong?
# Answer
If the thickness (Solidify) was added in Blender, you can try unchecking the only rim check box on the Solidify modifier.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: blender, tinkercad
---
|
thread-21215
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21215
|
Bresser Saurus (aka Flashforge Finder) thermocouple broken
|
2023-07-24T22:15:35.653
|
# Question
Title: Bresser Saurus (aka Flashforge Finder) thermocouple broken
The thermocouple on my 3D printer broke (one of the cables broke from the brass part that attaches to the heatblock). I managed to get it working and I was looking for other thermocouples while I had my machine working.
The thing is that it broke againg after two or three uses, and now it's a mess - it cannot be repaired anymore by mortal means. So the only solution is to buy a new one. And here it comes the problem: both the Flashforge Finder and the Bresser Saurus are out of production (only the Flashforge Finder 3 is out, and it has different pieces than the other Finders).
I managed to buy one thermocouple from Aliexpress but it turned out that it was not compatible (marking 50ºC at room temperature). I have tried other thermocouples, but I am not able to find it (and my knowledge on this is more or less nothing).
As I understand, the Bresser Saurus is just a repaint of the Flashforge Finder 2. But this is where things get strange, as I am unable to make anything from FF2 work on my Saurus. I've contacted the technical service of both Bresser and Flashforge and the answer is that they cannot provide me with even the type of thermocouple that it is used on my machine.
I hope that someone knows this, because if not, I am worried I may need to buy another printer if I want to continue printing.
# Answer
> 1 votes
There are (at least) eight types: B, E, J, N, K, R, T, & S type. Each type has different operating temperatures and characteristics.
K type thermocouples appear to be the most common (for our purposes), as they have the required temperature range useful for a 3D printer. You will need to know which type the printer originally came with. The original was probably just a generic thermocouple, so you should be able to get a replacement, but the type must match.
Also note that the original "thermocouple" may not have been an actual thermocouple... Often *NTC thermistors* or *RTD probes* can be used instead (to reduce costs). So you will need to check this too.
This thread has some (hopefully) useful information (assuming that the Bresser Saurus *actually* is just a rebadged Flashforge Finder 2): FF Finder thermocouple replacement.
This post #2 states that **K-type thermocouples** are used
> A thermo couple device is polarity sensitive, try connecting the wires the opposite way round. The FF Dreamer & Finder use a K-Type thermo couple. the wires are made of specific dissimilar materials that generate a voltage when heated. The Mother-Board detects this volttage change & works out the temperature. All thermo-couples are polarity sensitive, & iff connected the wrong way round they will give some very odd readings indeed. Note also that there are many types of thermocouple that each react to different temperature ranges.
and this post #3 states that **NTC thermistors** are used in older models of the Flash Forge Finder:
> It turns out, even though my Finder was bought recently (Flashforge store on Amazon), it is an old model and actually has a NTC thermistor instead of a thermocouple! Flashforge USA knows nothing about this, and I didn't have much luck with the Chinese contact either. The only two replacement parts to be ordered from them are both thermocouples-- in either M3 or M4 thread.
That post also includes some links to replacements.
Note also the thread and (to a lesser extent) the connector are important: Either M3 or M4 threads are used, so you will need to verify that as well, before making a purchase.
---
Tags: troubleshooting, flashforge-finder
---
|
thread-21213
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21213
|
Why are flat sections printing rough?
|
2023-07-23T22:41:14.300
|
# Question
Title: Why are flat sections printing rough?
This is not a duplicate of Ender 3 first print some area is smooth but some is rough? -- that question has vertical, curved surfaces that are rough. My vertical, curved surfaces are fine; it is horizontal flat surfaces that are rough.
Second, I apologize for the dust on the prints in the video. I've been trying approaches on this for a week and dust has collected since that time.
I have an Ender 3 Neo and am using 1.75 mm Comgrow PLA filament. I'm using Cura as my slicer.
My problem is that all of my prints are fine, *except* some (the larger) horizontally flat sections print sandpapery to the touch. The walls are fine and smooth. Curved sections (such as a rabbit) are fine and smooth -- it is only horizontal surfaces that have this problem, and then only the larger ones.
By rough, I mean there are visually distinctive diagonal lines (which are on all my prints, smooth or not, so I assume are normal), but dragging my finger over them is like dragging it over fine-grained sandpaper.
My tests consisted mostly of Incarna Tokens.stl -- this is the picture above. It's a mostly rectangular container to hold pieces for a board game, with a flat bottom that prints rough and walls.
What I've Tried:
* Original prints were with the default settings for the "Creality Ender-3 / Ender 3-v2" at Cura's super quality (0.12 mm) and had the problem.
* Releveling the bed. I did this several times, using this Creality Service tutorial video: lower nozzle to 0 mm, adjust Z-offset until I could feel it rub against the nozzle but could still push and pull the paper in any direction. I then turned off the motor and manually moved the extruder to each corner, where I repeated it while turning the corner dials to raise/lower that corner. Things actually got worse.
* I then tried the method again, but instead of turning off the motor, I used the motor to move the extruder to each corner. I got different results for the corners, which I don't understand. But adjusting using this method got prints going fine again... except for the horizontal sections which were still rough.
* I tried adjusting the Z-offset and reprinting just on the center (not adjusting the corners) up by 0.05 mm and 0.1 mm, which only succeeded in making the prints stringier, and down by -0.05 mm and -0.1 mm, which just made them worse. I took this as evidence that my leveling with the paper was correct (enough).
* I tried printing at each of the corners. No change, all prints came out the same.
* I removed the filament and cleaned the nozzle with the needle provided with the printer. The pin came out with some tiny black specks but nothing that said "clog." Prints afterward were no different.
* I adjust settings in Cura. Based on various things I read, I lowered print speed from 50 mm/s to 40 mm/s, I changed the flow to 97 % and then 95 %, I changed line width from 0.4 mm to 0.3 mm, I changed bed temperature from 50 °F to 60 °F (nozzle temperature stayed at 200 °F), I lowered fan speed from 100 % to 50 %, and I did combinations of these things. None of these had a noticeable impact other than the print speed and line width making it take longer.
* I turned on ironing in Cura. This worked, but only sort of: 2/3 of the horizontal surface did not have diagonal lines and was completely smooth, a strip around the edges (the ironing offset) had diagonal lines but was still smooth, but 1/3 of the print still had diagonal lines and remains rough. If the ironing completely worked it would solve my problem (I don't care about diagonal lines at the edges), but it only seems to be a 2/3 solution or so.
* I adjusted ironing settings (following some page that I can't find anymore). I turned on monotonic ironing order, increased the line spacing from 0.1 mm to 0.2 mm, increased ironing flow from 10 % to 15 %, and increased ironing speed from 16.66 mm/s to 30 mm/s, then 50 mm/s, then 70 mm/s. None of these solved the problem that about a third of the print remained rough.
* I measured the prints for X/Y dimensional accuracy. I don't have calipers or a precise tool, just a ruler and my eyeball, but they seemed fine. I also printed xyzCalibration\_cube.stl -- a 20 mm cube -- to test the Z accuracy, which to my eyeball, is also fine. Vexingly, even back to entirely default settings / 0.12 mm print speed, the calibration cube is smooth on all sides, including the horizontal top, which still has the diagonal lines but feels smooth to the touch like I want.
* I printed some other prints. The default rabbit print the Ender comes with (no horizontal flat surface, just curved surfaces) prints fine. Small horizontal surfaces (the cube, all of these Gloomhaven standee prints) print fine -- diagonal lines but smooth to the touch. Larger horizontal surfaces (like Dahan\_Tray\_thin.stl) continue to print rough. I checked the large surfaces to see if they start smooth in a corner and then get rough, but no, the roughness is consistent across the entire surface.
I theorize, but do not have any experience to back it up, that this happens because the larger flat area means more elapsed time between layers, but even if that's true I don't know how I would counteract it. Looking at the closeup pictures, it seems like the line ridges are raised, but then why doesn't it happen on smaller prints?
So I turn to you. How do I stop my large horizontal prints from being sandpapery?
# Answer
Many Ender3 printers have a curved surface. Leveling is not going to fix all problems here. That is why you might have difference in thickness. Only a mesh bed leveling sensor is going to help here.
It looks like while ironing, the head extrudes a little too much material in the process. That way the extra material oozes out through the sides. You say that you tried increasing from 10% to 20%, so I would try it with 3 or 0%.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, pla, smoothing
---
|
thread-21216
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21216
|
Absolute Z values not 0 at print surface after auto homing with CR-Touch
|
2023-07-25T05:05:03.123
|
# Question
Title: Absolute Z values not 0 at print surface after auto homing with CR-Touch
I recently installed the CR-Touch onto my CR10-V3 printer. I updated my firmware to Marlin 2.1.2M and set my probe offsets and selected level bed which checked 81 points on the print bed and it said bed leveling was complete.
I tried printing something that I had already created G-code for from Prusa Slicer, and on the initial wipe and perimeter print the nozzle was way too high (maybe 10-15 mm off the print bed surface)
I searched for how to enable using the auto bed leveling mesh using Prusa slicer, and I found a couple of places mentioning adding `M420 S1` to the G-code to enable using the auto bed leveling mesh, but even after adding that, my print did the same thing and during the wipe and perimeter print it was way too high.
Below is the start G-code that I'm using in Prusa Slicer
```
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp
G4 S30 ; allow partial nozzle warmup
G28 ; home all axis
M420 S1 ; Enable use auto bed leveling saved mesh
G1 Z50 F240
G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000
M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000
G92 E0
G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0
```
If I'm understanding the last part of that G-code, it should be 0.28 mm above the print bed when it does its nozzle wipe, but it's 10 mm or more off the bed when it does that.
I did some additional testing this morning, and the problem seems to be the z-values after auto homing. I have a z-probe offset entered of -2.122 mm that I got using the z-probe offset wizard in the Marlin firmware, and that offset visually seems reasonable for where the probe triggers vs the nozzle height.
After auto homing all axis, if I manually change the z-axis to be 0.28 mm, then the nozzle is still about 7 mm above the print bed which is where my prints are starting off.
If I manually deploy the touch sensor and lower the print head, the touch sensor engages with the print surface at around a z position of -5 mm, and then with the z-probe offset of -2.112 mm it's about 7 mm too high.
Where is this extra height coming from? I've checked and rechecked the z-probe offset, and like I said, the values seem reasonable, but I'm not sure where this extra height is coming from.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have no idea what happened the first time I initialized everything, but I started over from the beginning and ran the `Initialize EEPROM` command from the UI, and then saved the settings, and then went to the probe offsets and reset my probe offsets to exactly what they were before, but now after auto homing the absolute Z values look accurate and if I manually move the Z axis to 0 it is right at that 0.1 mm height of a sheet of paper.
The first time I initialized the EEPROM I ran auto home immediately after and I was getting an error on the main page `ERR: too far` and maybe in the process of trying to fix that I messed something else up, but it appears that everything is working how it should now.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Although I cannot be sure, I suspect that your bed-leveling is working fine.
An auto-bed-leveling-sensor only takes care of relative bed leveling. That means that you have to manually add a Z-offset in the printer menu. Do this by running the auto-leveling, then auto homing and then adjusting the Z-value by moving the Z-axis in the menu until the head barely touches the bed. Note the value and fill this in for the Z-offset value in the configuration menu of the printer.
---
Tags: marlin, bltouch, creality-cr-10, automatic-bed-leveling
---
|
thread-21160
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21160
|
What are the consequences of printing PLA at too high a temperature?
|
2023-07-08T10:48:30.613
|
# Question
Title: What are the consequences of printing PLA at too high a temperature?
When printing with basic budget PLA, what are the consequences of having it slightly over temperature. For example 5-10 deg above the recommended temperature for the brand, or significantly over temperature such as 50 deg?
How will this be seen on the print, and what are the inherent risks - if any - to the printer?
Presuming that the print is allowed to complete, and there are no other external factors that might effect either the printer or the print.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If it is only a little higher, the properties of the plastic may not be ideal and it may reduce part quality. For example, it may be less viscous and drool out the nozzle faster over empty spaces, causing stringing and bridges may sag more than they would at a lower temperature. There may be some benefits though. For instance, layer adhesion might be better.
If it is a lot higher, the plastic could burn instead of melting. If it burns inside the nozzle, it may clog the nozzle. It may also smoke and/or emit toxic fumes. (Although the burning fumes are much worse for other plastics like ABS and nylon.)
# Answer
> 1 votes
Assuming you are not exceeding a safe temperature for your hotend, including a limit of around 245-260 °C if it's PFTE-lined and a limit around 300-330 if the block is aluminum, there are no significant risks to the print quality, printer, or user unless you get to **extreme** temperatures. PLA prints great up to 270 °C and in fact this is the sort of temperature you need to print at high speeds without a very long melt zone. Somewhere around 320-350 it will start to smoke. I've had this happen when purging PET (which I print at 350) with PLA and forgetting to drop the temperature first, but nothing bad comes of it.
If PLA sits in the hot zone at excessive temperature (especially over 240 or so) for an extended time, it will crystallize and become brittle, but the damaged material is easily purged as part of the purge line or skirt for the next print.
---
Tags: print-material, temperature, quality
---
|
thread-21222
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21222
|
Starting 3D printing at home
|
2023-07-25T14:32:11.550
|
# Question
Title: Starting 3D printing at home
I've been doing some 3D printing at work as a means of different tool holding devices and jigs and from this time I have gained some, although very basic, knowledge on how the printers work and how to troubleshoot the issues I've experienced with problems I have encountered.
From this I have gained a new interest in 3D printing as a result and would like to buy a printer for use at home that is relatively cheap (£300 Max-ish) and I'm wondering if anyone can give me some pointers as to which I should look into buying as a good first step to 3D printing at home.
I've been printing with a Prusa i3 MK3S+ at work and their PETG filament mainly, and I'm definitely leaning towards something similar and compatible with the PrusaSlicer because I'm fairly comfortable with both, but the i3 MK3S+ is a bit expensive for me to invest in for at home as of right now.
If anyone can help me out it would be greatly appreciated along with any set up tips for the printer you suggest
Many thanks.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Reading between the lines, you require a started printer functionally equivalent to a Prusa i3 MK3, but on a limited budget as it was designed using the same original source material
The Ender 3 is probably your best bet, though this kind of question is not really what this website is designed to be used for.
---
Tags: prusa-i3
---
|
thread-21228
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21228
|
How do flow rate and part cooling affect bed adhesion in PLA?
|
2023-07-26T12:07:55.110
|
# Question
Title: How do flow rate and part cooling affect bed adhesion in PLA?
In general terms, what effect does increasing or decreasing the flow rate and part cooling during bottom layer printing affect bed adhesion when dealing with generic PLA?
# Answer
> 1 votes
For the first layer for PLA, you want slow speed and no cooling. The relative flow rate is better kept at 100%
On the physics side:
* The material will solidify rapidly in contact with the build-plate which is much below the melting point. the build plate is usually at 60 °C (5 ° below the glass transition temp, or less if you dare), and the PLA melting point is around 170 °C
* So blowing on it will increase the issue this is why normally first layers are done with no part cooling
* The next important parameter is your nozzle height, if it is too high you will not push enough material you could compensate for that by increasing relative flow rate but it is not good practice it is better and very easy to properly calibrate your nozzle height
* Your speed will depend on the adhesion tendency of the bed material with the PLA and the potential helpers (lac, glue stick)
+ on a low-quality surface (uneven old plate) you might go at 20 mm/s
+ on glass with a glue stick I had sometimes difficulty going over 40 mm/s,
+ with PEI and 3Dlac over a meshed bed it is possible to go over 100 mm/s
* The relative flow rate can be used if your machine under-extrudes (you see through your first layer) or over extrude (there are blobs or protrusions), but it is good practice to keep the relative flowrate at 100% and to properly calibrate the extruder E-steps as shown here:
---
Tags: adhesion
---
|
thread-21227
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21227
|
Optimal bed and hot end temperature for bed adhesion with PLA on a Bambu P1P
|
2023-07-26T12:05:34.160
|
# Question
Title: Optimal bed and hot end temperature for bed adhesion with PLA on a Bambu P1P
Using Bambu matte black filament, a Bambu textured PEI bed, and a Bambu P1P printer without an enclosure, what is the optimum bed and hot end temperature for maximum adhesion on a tall thin print with a low level of contact (corner piece for one of the official enclosure).
Please limit any answers to temperature, other issues such as speed, the use of contact shapes, or bed adhesion products are out of scope for this specific question.
# Answer
According to the material specifications, the mate has a Heat Deflection Temperature of 58 °C which can be assumed as the glass transition temperature. So you can bring your bed temperature as close to this as you dare for better adhesion. (you might even be able to go a bit over it if your part is not sagging)
But this will have only a limited effect. Not wanting to look at efficient solutions like a brim and 3Dlac to gain adhesion area might not allow you to solve the problem.
A nice trick if you are scared not to be able to remove the brim cleanly is to do a skirt with a 0.2 or 0.3 mm gap this will allow it to hold sufficiently to help adhesion but still be easy to remove.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: adhesion
---
|
thread-21168
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21168
|
Switching power ON with RPi loses connection with MCU (Ender 3v2/Klipper/Mainsail)
|
2023-07-10T16:49:51.897
|
# Question
Title: Switching power ON with RPi loses connection with MCU (Ender 3v2/Klipper/Mainsail)
TL;DR: When powered off (default state) the Pi powers the Ender's MCU through USB and all is well, but when I switch on the power through G-code I get
> Lost communication with MCU 'mcu'
I'm quite certain I'm not the first one to have this happen, but searching hasn't gotten me the answer yet, probably due to the fact that searching for the error message only gives unrelated answers. My Ender 3v2 (4.2.2 mainboard) is set up such that my Raspberry Pi 3 B+ switches on the power supply through a relay controlled by GPIO.
Macro (which seems to run fine as it does the switching):
```
# Turns on printer
[output_pin printer_power]
pin: rpi:gpio17
# Printer power ON
[gcode_macro POWER_ON]
gcode:
SET_PIN PIN=printer_power VALUE=1
# Printer power OFF
[gcode_macro POWER_OFF]
gcode:
SET_PIN PIN=printer_power VALUE=0
gpioinfo pin 17:
line 17: "GPIO17" "klipper" output active-high [used]
```
I use the commands `POWER_ON` and `POWER_OFF` in the slicer G-code, where they are either first or last. (edit: don't power off the printer through the slicer if you want to see succesful prints in your overview - practically it works fine but it's much better to let the printer auto power off from idle, see https://github.com/jschuh/klipper-macros for example)
When I use my slicer to send a file to the printer it starts and runs for about three seconds as it starts homing axes, and then the error
> Lost communication with MCU 'mcu'
appears and the printer hurts itself in its confusion, but when I use the commands through mainsail it works just fine.
I hope someone knows how to avoid this, might just be an electrical issue (immediate instructions/power draw on startup?) that I need to circumvent somehow.
# Answer
Fixed it.
As expected and completely reasonable, the MCU needed some time to wake up, clocked it at 6-7 seconds so gave it a total 10 seconds in code. Found the most graceful way of doing it was in the same macro, also included a nice little beep to let me know the game is afoot. I also added an ATX power supply to the rig in the mean time so that is switched first, and I only turn on the 24V PSU after the MCU woke up because **control before power**.
```
# Switches 24V PSU through physical relay gate 1
[output_pin 24V_power]
pin: rpi:gpio17
# Switches 12V PSU through physical relay gate 2
[output_pin 12V_power]
pin: rpi:gpio27
# Switches power ON
[gcode_macro POWER_ON]
gcode:
SET_PIN PIN=12V_power VALUE=1
G4 P9000 # Give MCU time to wake up
SET_PIN PIN=24V_power VALUE=1
G4 P1000 # Give 24V PSU time to wake up
BEEP_STARTUP
# Switches power OFF
[gcode_macro POWER_OFF]
gcode:
BEEP_POWEROFF
SET_PIN PIN=24V_power VALUE=0
SET_PIN PIN=12V_power VALUE=0
```
Included the extra bit because it might help a stranger, as the original question is simply answered by adding:
```
G4 P10000 # Give MCU time to wake up
```
directly after the power supply turns on, either after the macro in the slicer or in the macro as I did, and before any action from the MCU is requested. Note that this time can vary based on your MCU, and I refrained from tuning this further to prevent errors down the line.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, raspberry-pi, klipper
---
|
thread-21200
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21200
|
3D printer giving me “too long extrusion prevented” error message when ever I try to print a model made in Blender
|
2023-07-21T15:11:12.477
|
# Question
Title: 3D printer giving me “too long extrusion prevented” error message when ever I try to print a model made in Blender
I am able to print files from Thingiverse just fine but having trouble printing anything designed in Blender. I get the error message “too long extrusion prevented” following which the print fails. I have tried different things to address the issue including: re-calculating E-steps, changing the extruder, trying a different slicer, adding a bed offset, downloading the latest version of Blender, and re-modeling the object. Nothing seems to work. Could someone please help me out so I could know what I am doing wrong?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Sometimes 3D modeling software does not produce good-quality STL files outputs
You can clean those using the opensource software MeshLab
Then you open your file and go into **Filters** \> **Cleaning and Repairing**; there you apply the merges, the duplicate removal, and the repair non-manifold.
When the file is not too damaged most of the slicers have mesh fixing options; in Cura, it is in the Mesh Fixes section. There are options for removing holes stitching, etc.
The symptom of long extrusion prevented is weird though as it means it is trying to make a line with more than 10 or 20 cm of filament which once extruded makes a few netters the first time I see that as a symptom of bad STL.
P.S. You might want to look at the arc segment setting (I do not know the proper name for Blender) in Blender for the cylinders as there are not a lot of segments and your holes are not rounds.
---
Tags: extruder, diy-3d-printer, calibration, reprap, blender
---
|
thread-21196
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21196
|
print a model with an hole in it - Entina tina 2
|
2023-07-20T08:06:49.220
|
# Question
Title: print a model with an hole in it - Entina tina 2
What's the size of the smallest hole I can print? I would like to print something similar to a paper with 1 mm (estimated size) hole/gap in it.
I think I will use an Entina Tina 2, but I don't know if it is possible to print with this one. If I can. Do you have a recommendation for the cheapest printer that I can print 1 mm hole (or smaller)?
# Answer
It is possible to print a hole of 1 mm with a 3D printer maybe even 0.5 mm but with a lot of trial and error. and the holes might not end-up to be super round
One of the main issues is the viscosity of the filament, you can imagine a 3D printer nozzle as a miniature version of your toothpaste tube. if you try to draw a circle with your toothpaste it will end up smaller than the movement you did due to the viscosity of the plastic dragging behind the nozzle.
So to have a 1 mm hole you will need to model a 1.1 mm or 1.2 mm hole and to do a 0.5 mm hole you will need to dial a 0.7 mm or 0.8 mm hole and try until you have the desired size. As you start to be close to the size of the nozzle diameter (0.4 mm on most printers) all the little imperfections stitching, etc will become relatively big and your shape will not be very round.
Except for very bad machines, all the machines shall be able to do this as it is a universal limitation of FDM printers.
If you are very patient you may consider installing a 0.2 mm nozzle but it is dreadfully slow and it likes to clog all the time.
SLA printers will give you a better hole but will have difficulty printing a large surface of paper-thin material
My feelings tell me that for paper-thin print with a small hole or many small holes, 3D printing does not sound like the most appropriate mean of fabrication what is it exactly that you want to do and what are your constraints?
> 1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models
---
|
thread-21177
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21177
|
In the last layer, the nozzle should be at 210 °C of temperature configured in the Prusa Slicer profile
|
2023-07-14T13:56:27.610
|
# Question
Title: In the last layer, the nozzle should be at 210 °C of temperature configured in the Prusa Slicer profile
I would like to create a profile, in the Prusa Slicer software, that could be preset so that in the last layer the nozzle is at 210 °C of temperature so that the printer ensures that the inner and outer walls are well together and do not become loose in the layer higher. I have very thin 0.7 mm walls and I usually have problems with the walls opening every now and then...
# Answer
> 1 votes
In the printer settings custom G-code you could add a custom G-code there
```
{if layer_num == (total_layer_count-1) } M104 S210 {endif}
```
But that does not sound right why not start with 210 °C in the first place? It is perfectly OK to print PLA at 210 °C.
---
Tags: prusaslicer
---
|
thread-21252
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21252
|
What does an Ender 5 look like in its original foam packaging?
|
2023-07-29T18:06:12.837
|
# Question
Title: What does an Ender 5 look like in its original foam packaging?
When shipped from the factory to retail the Ender 5 comes packaged in a series of layers using shaped foam.
In order to repackage an Ender 5 in its original box (for example, for transport or storage) it must be dismantled and placed back in this foam packaging in a specific order and arrangement.
What does this order and arrangement look like, with pictures if possible.
This is "how do I deconstruct" question, the opposite to "how do I build".
# Answer
> 1 votes
Watch this in reverse:
The "unboxing" ends at 2:45
Screenshots in reverse order:
---
Tags: creality-ender-5
---
|
thread-20529
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20529
|
New Ender 3 V2 Neo keeps losing nozzle and plate temperature in the middle of the print and must be turned off to stop the print
|
2023-02-03T02:09:38.213
|
# Question
Title: New Ender 3 V2 Neo keeps losing nozzle and plate temperature in the middle of the print and must be turned off to stop the print
I purchased it new from Amazon in December. It started about one week ago and it just stops with a constant beep and does not allow me to do anything else except turn it off. Doesn't happen on all prints but just loses its brain.
It does save the printing but I must shut it down manually and then it picks off where it left off but still does the same thing. Printing a bonsai bowl and other things and it goes to 0 °C. Is this something I am doing incorrectly or is it a defect in the unit? To me sounds like a defect.
# Answer
My printer was doing this. I looked all over to try and find a solution on my own. One person said that it was a faulty thermister so having found no other solution I got on the Creality customer support chat and they sent me a file called `PID.gcode`. I ran the file on the printer and it fixed my issue immediately.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Did you check the voltage setting on the back of the unit?
There is a semi-hidden switch that can be flipped to go from 230 volts to 115 volts. If you are in the US, you want to print on 115 volts.
> -2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, hotend, nozzle, heat-management, build-plate
---
|
thread-20541
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20541
|
I'm making my own printer, my motors only go in the plus (+) direction, I can't send them in the opposite direction
|
2023-02-04T16:34:24.440
|
# Question
Title: I'm making my own printer, my motors only go in the plus (+) direction, I can't send them in the opposite direction
I am making my own printer. I used Repetier as firmware, made all cable connections, and installed the software. The screen came on and I connected it to the computer at the right frequency, but the motors can only move in one direction (plus) and when I select and click the G-code file, it does not react. What could be the reason for this?
# Answer
I am very sorry for the incomplete information and for getting back to you after a long time. The problem was that I did not set the pull-up, pull-down status of the endstops in the firmware.Thank you for friends who are interested.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: repetier
---
|
thread-21263
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21263
|
The thickness of my model is not always accurate. How do I solve this?
|
2023-08-02T22:06:14.120
|
# Question
Title: The thickness of my model is not always accurate. How do I solve this?
After replacing the nozzle on my Creatbot F430 printer, I auto-leveled the bed and initiated a test print - a simple square with a 2 mm thickness. However, I observed that the thickness of the printed model is inconsistent, varying between 1.5 mm and 1.7 mm. I'm wondering the Z-Offset is affecting this, or I shouldn't really worry about 0.3 mm / 0.5 mm difference.
Nozzle Size is 0.4 mm
# Answer
Yes the Z offset needs to be redone each time a nozzle is removed even if you re install the same size.
Another thing to verify is to ensure the slicer is actually set with a 0.4mm nozzle
> 1 votes
---
Tags: z-axis, nozzle, simplify3d
---
|
thread-21285
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21285
|
How do I remove clogged filament around a nozzle
|
2023-08-05T13:44:47.947
|
# Question
Title: How do I remove clogged filament around a nozzle
**Problem:** The first layer on the bed was printed fine, but it seems the filament got stuck or something and wouldn't stick to the bed, but instead to the nozzle. Note, it also got behind the blue rubber part. This is the work of about half an hour of printing.
**Info:**
* Anycubic Kobra
* stock nozzle
* stock bed
* PLA filament
* nozzle temp: 200 °C
* bed temp: 60 °C
**Question:** How would I go on about removing the filament around the nozzle?
**Attempt:** I tried to cut it away, but it has already dried out, making it quite hard. I did some research, but I could only find ways to unclog the nozzle itself (given that the nozzle can be reached, which is not the case). My fear is, if I continue to try to break it off, I'll break the whole part. I could heat up the nozzle hoping for the filament to melt again, but that'll probably make it worse.
# Answer
You need heat to remove that. If you're hesitant to heat up the hotend, you can use a soldering iron or a butter knife heated over a lighter to start attacking the blob from the outside to get it down to a more managable size. A heat gun or even a hair dryer is also an option; the latter won't melt it, but may soften it enough to be pliable.
Once you get the bulk of the blob off and are able to remove the silicone sock, a brass wire brush is the tool to use to clean off the remainder. To do this, the hotend needs to be hot, and you need to avoid brushing around where the wires go in so you don't accidentally break the wire insulation and cause a short. If there's plastic stuck there at the base of the wires, a toothpick can be used to remove it while the hotend is hot.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: troubleshooting, pla, nozzle
---
|
thread-21287
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21287
|
Extruder motor not turning while printing, but works while testing on Ender 3
|
2023-08-05T20:07:32.580
|
# Question
Title: Extruder motor not turning while printing, but works while testing on Ender 3
I have an Ender 3 with the silent board, BLTouch, and Marlin 2.0.6 installed. Recently I've the problem of the extruder not moving while printing, but works fine during testing. I tried changing the motherboard (that's when I installed the silent board) and changing the motor, but nothing worked. I usually use the CURA 5.3.0 slicer, but I also tried the Creality slicer and it still did not work. During print the extruder does not move, but it rocks back and forth during the initial purge before the print.
How can I fix this issue?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I found the problem, it was a bad cable. I just changed the cable.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, extruder
---
|
thread-21218
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21218
|
How should I remove the resin from the resin tank?
|
2023-07-25T12:03:43.407
|
# Question
Title: How should I remove the resin from the resin tank?
We need to move our Formlabs Form 3 printer to a new room, and I would like to remove the resin from the resin tank. Is there a standard way to do this, and can I reuse the resin once I remove it?
# Answer
when moving the printer to a new room I would just remove the tank and then carefully move the tank to the new room after you moved the printer.
If you really need to empty the tank: The tank usually has a small indent in one of the corners. Just dump the contents of the tank through a resin strainer (a paper coffee-filter-like cone) back into the container it came in. Do this in a well ventilated area with no direct sunlight entering the room and don't let it spill on your skin. (no big deal if you touch it, just don't let it happen too often)
Don't forget to clean the tank thoroughly with paper rags and alcohol afterwards. Everything that stays will be stuck after some time
> 1 votes
# Answer
It really depends on the resin. In some resins like ESD components can sediment down to the floor of the VAT. In that case the best option is really to empty the tank and shake the bottle / container. Its one of the benefits of the Solidator 3D-Printer that the Solidator Resins do not sediment and you can keep the material in the tank for several keeps without issues.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: resin, maintenance, cleaning, formlabs
---
|
thread-21300
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21300
|
What materials can I use to fill gaps in PLA?
|
2023-08-09T12:16:49.560
|
# Question
Title: What materials can I use to fill gaps in PLA?
Relatively new to 3D printing but have learnt a lot, I just need some help on the finishing process. I currently have some print-in-place PLA figures I need to sand down and some have holes I need to fill in (we made a bit of a mistake on layer thickness). I have a fair amount of hands-on experience with sanding and filling from my tenure making sculptures from foam/cardboard and the like but I'm unsure on the materials for plastic.
That being said, is regular poly-filler or wall filler okay? This is what I've used before while making sculptures, so I have the most experience with it. Or should I be looking for something more specialist or specific like using a two-part resin for filling and sanding that down? (I do have access to a well ventilated space I can do this in.) Should I simply go over everything with a soldering iron?
These figures will be primed and painted afterwards, so I would prefer if the filling material was relatively easy to paint over. Colour doesn't matter as long as it gets the job done though. :-)
# Answer
> 3 votes
## CA Glue
for very small holes or print defects, I like to use a droplet of CA glue, which fills those small defects.
In combination with baking soda, it can fill even larger gaps and voids. Glass or plastic pearls and sand also can work as material for filling, as can sanding dust.
## Filler-Primer Spray
While not useful for moles larger than about half a millimeter, filler primer sprays can cover over and hide dimples, scratches from sanding as well as layer lines.
## Filler paste
Be it Plasto, Tamiya putty or wall filler, small to medium defects and dimples can be filled with these compounds. Plasto in particular has a rather aggressive solvent in it, that strips through paint, so keep that in mind. Among similar products, Tamiya has a range of filler pastes I have good experience with, very similar to Plasto, and is available in different styles for different plastics. In even larger packaging, 3M 05096 is a very decent acrylic filler and comes in industrial-sized 411 g/14.5 oz compared to the about 30 grams of hobby fillers.
## PLA soldering
If you have a **clean** soldering iron or 3D pen, you can use spare filament pieces to melt and fill gaps or even join parts.
## 2 Component Resin
A favorite of mine for smoothing over organic surfaces is coating them in two-component resin and letting that dry. The result is usually super smooth, but this is not useful to fill in larger holes that need to be built up first.
## "Greenstuff" et al
A better alternative for filling up medium to large holes in a print is using a material akin to Greenstuff, Milliput, or any other glue putty, such as Pattex Repair Express, Uhu Epoxy Repair All or many others. These two component resins start as two strips of gumlike consistency and after mixing turn into a hard polymer over the next 5 minutes to 12 hours, depending on the formulation. This stuff can make a structural replacement for even the largest holes, and be smoothed mechanically.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I've had good success with UV-cure glue as a filler. It's reasonably hard when cured yet sands easily. It takes paint well. It has the advantages of unlimited working time and a very quick cure time.
---
Tags: pla, post-processing
---
|
thread-18437
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18437
|
Large prints cracking
|
2021-11-24T14:16:12.257
|
# Question
Title: Large prints cracking
I'm trying to print large objects (around 1 meter squared) with polycarbonate pellets. The problem is sometimes the print cracks. It is not due to delamination as it is a shear crack across multiple layers. I know the ideal scenario is to have a heated enclosure but I cannot do that due to the size. Any suggestions?
I am using a robotic arm (KUKA KR360) with a custom extruder. That is why I can't build the enclosure. As for the temperature, they are 230 to 260 °C. Nozzle is 10 mm.
---
*I like the idea of directed heat. I might try that.*
# Answer
> 1 votes
Printing polycarbonate requires a high end 3D printer that is suitable for the task.
From Simplify3d support we learn that:
> ... requires very high temperatures for printing and will **exhibit layer separation if printed at too low of a temperature or with excessive cooling enabled**. Polycarbonate is frequently **best printed on a machine that has an enclosed build volume** and is capable of handling high bed and extruder temperatures.
High temperatures and enclosed build volume are key to print polycarbonate without cracking or delamination.
> Any suggestions?
Note that NASA has successfully printed ULTEM (even higher temperatures needed) using open source hardware. They have used infrared lamps directed at the build plate, this may be an option if a full enclosure is not possible. Also people seem to get good results with draft shields for printing ABS on non enclosed printers. Key is that a constant elevated temperature is created near the print, whether that works for such a large size remains to be seen. Best solution would be enclosing the printer.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Sounds like your problem is cooling, which would be mitigated by an enclosure to eliminate draughts and hold a higher air temperature.
I made an enclosure using parts-on-hand and some printed PLA joiners. It doesn't have to be fancy or expensive to work well.
Details are at https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18406/12956
Next step is to sew some thermal "curtains" as sides and top. As it is I simply hang some coats around the frame in the short term, and use a Pi camera inside to monitor the progress from remote.
# Answer
> -1 votes
Get a tent for growing smokey plants :) Think about it, they can be of big sizes and maintain heat inside, reflective material on the inside.
---
Tags: print-quality, polycarbonate
---
|
thread-21311
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21311
|
I adjusted the E-steps from 93 to 117.8, now it retracts all filament
|
2023-08-12T06:59:19.483
|
# Question
Title: I adjusted the E-steps from 93 to 117.8, now it retracts all filament
I'm brand new to 3D printing and I have had to make so **many** adjustments just to get a decent print on the Ender 3. Its hardware is 4.2.2 and the firmware is 2.0.8.2. When I ordered it, it did not come with a user guide so I have spent the last week just getting it properly adjusted.
The last thing I just did was set the E-steps because I've been having a consistent extruder skipping issue and when I did the measurements for the E-steps, I got $\frac{90}{71}\times93 = 117.8$, and now right when it starts to print it expels all filament! I'm getting progressively exhausted from spending so many days just trying to get this right. I'll start a print and in the middle of the night the filament just stops printing and it turns out that after manually moving the extruder using the display, it was at least 50+ mm behind! I don't want to give up on this new hobby. So please, can someone please guide me in getting this right? I've 3D printed a few small objects when the thing shouldn't have even been functional, but doing a long print, it doesn't even clog! The filament just retracts so far. So far, here's what I have done.
* Fixed the X-axis wobble by adjusting the off-set nut
* Fixed the printer head wobble by adjusting the eccentric nut
* Unwound and rewound an amount of PLA roll
* Ensured the PTFE tube that goes into the printer head is flushed with nozzle and retainer clips are installed.
* Put stock PLA roll holder right up to the Z-axis screw so it wouldn't get caught or have too much tension.
* Leveled the bed with feeler gauges on all 4 furthest corners, I started with 0.2 mm and moved it so it's just barely touching the 0.1 mm gauge.
The list is small since in between each fix is a few hours of a failed print and researching each aspect of the printer.
To address the main point, I have been having an issue where the extruder skips, I wake up to the filament moved back beyond the nozzle, adjusted E-steps and now the filament un-extrudes about 100 mm.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There is no way that a change from 93 to 117.8 is correct. Filament hobs do not vary in diameter, tooth depth, filament squeeze, etc. by anywhere near that much. A measurement result that suggests you need more than a 5% change from the factory setting almost certainly means something is physically broken in your extruder. Maybe a crack in the arm, a spring with no tension, etc. You need to set the value back and track down what the real problem is before you try to tune esteps.
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-21316
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21316
|
How to improve quality of edge over support
|
2023-08-14T13:23:58.597
|
# Question
Title: How to improve quality of edge over support
I am having trouble with my print here, specifically with the part laying on the green support:
It seems the edge running on the supports does not stick to it and it wants to curl upwards :
I have reduced layer height to 0.1 mm and support Z distance to 0.05 mm. I am using the tight support setting in prusa slicer. The perimeter is printed at 35 mm/s and the temperatures are 200 °C and 73 °C for the bed to print PLA+.
Here is what I would like to get close to side by side with the current result. The good one is printed upside down and takes me 23h to print instead of 12h, so I would like to find a good fix for this ;)
# Answer
This looks like inadequate cooling. If this is PLA, it's probably a matter of PLA this close to a hot bed being unable to cool enough not to still be soft - the heat from the bed will continually heat the part, and it doesn't take much heat to keep it soft. If you're using a bed temperature of 60°C (common recoommendation for PLA) this is hopelessly too hot for any small parts with overhangs to print close to the bed. Try reducing it or printing with a completely cold bed using a non-heat-based method for adhesion. Some good ones are a textured surface like painter's tape/"blue tape", especially roughed up with light sanding, or an adhesive aid like glue stick or hair spray.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: pla, creality-cr-10, support-structures, prusaslicer
---
|
thread-21319
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21319
|
The nozzle becomes clogged in the smoothing mode
|
2023-08-14T19:55:10.337
|
# Question
Title: The nozzle becomes clogged in the smoothing mode
My nozzle gets clogged when it starts to do smoothing. Settings below:
# Answer
The filament conducts heat (not much, but it does), so the heat from the hotend travels backwards towards the cold part. Usually the filament during print moves forward faster than the heat travels backwards, so there is always fresh, cool filament on the back.
In your case, since you move filament 12% of the normal speed (which is not fast already in an Ender 3), the forward motion of the filament is too slow and the heat travelling back softens the filament (50 °C are enough) and it clogs.
The solution is to use Polymaker PLA, which is not cheap, but it has been treated to completely avoid this issue, since it doesn't soften at 50 °C but at 100 °C so that even when printing slow it will hold up.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ender3
---
|
thread-21325
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21325
|
Extruder clogs after a while on Creality CR-10s Pro v2
|
2023-08-16T07:47:06.293
|
# Question
Title: Extruder clogs after a while on Creality CR-10s Pro v2
The printer has been working perfectly for hundreds of prints. No issues whatsoever. Last week the extruder started clogging. It happens after printing just fine the first half hour or so (3 mm height). The friction through the Bowden seems fine. I'm starting to wonder if the temperature in the nozzle drops and makes feeding impossible.
My settings:
* Prusa slicer with standard configuration for Creality CR-10S Pro V2
* 0.2 mm layer height on 0.4 mm nozzle
* E-PLA 1.75 mm filament
* Nozzle temp 210 °C, bed temp 60 °C
What I've tried:
# Answer
There is a common issue with Ender printers. The Bowden tube slips out very very slightly. And since it's a bowden lined heat break, molten plastic jams between the edge of the tube and the heat break.
There is a great Chep episode on this:
or you can switch to an all metal hot-end. Long term I recommend this. It's cheap to get a very good one, and will lead to better upgrades down the line. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002907726643.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003982888788.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002854326060.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005854409008.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005094324313.html
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-cr-10
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thread-21315
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21315
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Ender 3 Pro: Parts cooling fan making strange noises
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2023-08-13T15:25:58.830
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 Pro: Parts cooling fan making strange noises
I am using an Ender 3 Pro that I bought near the end of March 2023, and I have not modified any of its parts. About an hour ago, I tried preheating the hotend (using the 'Preheat PLA End' setting) and heard a buzzing sound coming from the parts cooling fan.
I tried cleaning the fan and made sure it was connected properly, which made the noise a bit quieter but didn't make it go away.
* What is causing this noise?
* Can it be fixed without replacing the fan?
* If so, how?
I will keep trying to understand and fix the problem, and will add updates if I find more info.
# Answer
> 3 votes
> * What is causing this noise?
> * Can it be fixed without replacing the fan?
> * If so, how?
The sound was caused by a buildup of filament near the motherboard and in the motherboard fan. After getting rid of the strands, the part cooling fan has stopped making the buzzing noise.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, print-fan
---
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thread-21186
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21186
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Small parts de-adhere halfway through print
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2023-07-18T01:19:02.130
|
# Question
Title: Small parts de-adhere halfway through print
I have a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro that I'm trying to figure out.
I was able to make 3 solid prints using white Creality-branded PLA without issue and with just an initial auto-level pass, but after that, I had problems with small parts de-adhering halfway through my prints; the first 5 or 6 layers will print fine, and then small bits of the first layer will just slide off the print bed while the extruder is moving.
I think my first layer is maybe not going down well enough, though the pieces that do stick seem to be down pretty well (they require a decent amount of force to get them off of the PEI bed) - the image below is pretty close to the sort of thing I'm seeing with normal prints.
If it matters, my extruder temp is 200 °C and my bed temp is 60 °C. I left everything as the default settings and tried using both the latest Cura and Creality settings.
I think the issue is the globbing that's happening when the extruder changes directions when it hits a cold raised blob it just has too much torque and flicks it off. My leveling procedure is going through the manual leveling UX with the bed heated, sticking a piece of paper under the center and 4 corners (one at a time), and adjusting the wheels as best as I can until it slightly drags; once I'm satisfied with that I do an auto-level pass.
Below is an image of my first layer test grid; any ideas for what I can try? Is there anything I can do with the flow rate or first layer width to get better adhesion, or do I need to monkey with the Z-offset and leveling more? My gut is saying that the Z-offset is too low but when I raise it I have issues with even the outer nozzle-wiping passes not sticking (the straight lines that the default Cura profile prints usually stick fine, but the initial skirt around the part do not).
Is this just too small of a piece to print maybe? I printed two of these Articulated Shark initially and they did not have any issues with de-adhesion, and they have similarly-sized first-layer parts.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I've found a brim works for this. Where it might be frustrating to remove a brim, I've suspended the part a little with tree-like supports. I've even had to go for extra wide brims for a part with a small footprint but a little tall.
This part is a little bigger, but also slid off a lot without that nice big brim.
# Answer
> 0 votes
As recently as yesterday, I've had results like yours. My advice would be to:
1. For extra bed adhesion: Set the heated bed to 75 °C (from 60 °C). Make sure you are using some of the Purple Elmer's glue stick on the bed before printing! I'm assuming you already tried this or have gotten other prints to work very well.
2. Set the "extrusion multiplier" to 0.95. Your goal should be to extrude 93-95 % of the rate of what you were doing previously. You don't want excess filament that was extruded to "catch" the nozzle and be pulled by it.
3. Raise the nozzle up about 0.6 mm from where it is currently. If the nozzle is "clearly" too high, lower by 0.1 mm until it's okay. The nozzle could be too low, pushing the filament out wide when it leaves the nozzle, causing stringing. Don't overlook this. I thought I had my nozzle perfect because the layers were sticking. I didn't think a low nozzle could cause that kind of stringing. But it only worked when I took all these steps, including this one. Also, the low nozzle means that when it raises up for the next layer, it's actually still going to contact the filament that was "extruded out wide" from the previous layer. But I think this would be the problem more likely if it was happening around layer 2 or 3, not 5.
4. Print the first layer extremely slowly, at about 15 % speed of what you're used to / Slicer defaults if you aren't already. Once you reach the third layer, you can increase the speed again. The second layer might be questionable if there's still some stringing.
5. If those steps don't work, the problem may have something to do with your Z-axis motor driver not getting enough current, meaning your extruder doesn't actually consistently raise up after each layer consistently.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, adhesion
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thread-21333
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21333
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Are there any 3D printer boards or expansions that support more than 3 thermistors?
|
2023-08-18T18:08:48.160
|
# Question
Title: Are there any 3D printer boards or expansions that support more than 3 thermistors?
A long time ago, I went through the experience of adding extra thermistors to my 3D printer board. Ultimately, I did get it to work, but it resulted in extra wiring and was not as clean as I would like.
I was wondering if there are any ready-made 3D printer boards that support adding extra thermistors. I need 5 thermistors for a large 3D printer with a long heated bed. I need the thermistors to measure the temperature of an extruder, the chamber (in 1-2 spots), and 2-3 spots along the bed.
Since I am looking for a new 3D printer board anyway, are there any boards that support adding extra thermistors using a premade PCB or that come with specific JST connectors for up to 5 thermistors?
# Answer
Yes. Generally, it will be the boards with lots of steppers (or rather stepstick sockets) which also support lots of heaters/thermistors. For example the BTT Octopus Pro has 4 hotend heater ports, heated bed terminals with dedicated bed power supply, and 5 thermistor ports TB/T0/T1/T2/T3. I suspect other 8-stepper boards are similar, though I haven't checked.
If you'll be using Klipper, though, there's no need for lots of ports on the same board. You can use cheap RAMPS boards or old Creality boards or whatever and connect as many as you like to the Klipper host for it to control in sync.
> 1 votes
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Tags: electronics, temperature, thermistor, part-identification
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thread-21342
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21342
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My nozzle is heating up even when it shouldnt
|
2023-08-22T08:04:34.513
|
# Question
Title: My nozzle is heating up even when it shouldnt
I would like help with the printer. When I wanted to print yesterday, the display wouldn't start, so I restored it and everything worked. Then the motor that pushes the filament didn't want to move, so I cleaned it up a bit. When I wanted to print something, the bed started to heat up, like 120 °C in a few seconds. So, I quickly connected everything and the nozzle showed -15 °C degrees. Then I replaced the whole extruder, and when I turned it on, the temperature was displayed, but it rose within 2 seconds to 250 °C.
The printer is Artillery Genius Pro.
I tried a new cable to the extruder, and also a new firmware, but it didn't help.
I really don't know what to do anymore.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The heaters (and power supply) aren't capable of heating that fast\*, so what you've observed seems to be an error in measurement of the temperature, not a sudden increase in temperature. This can be caused by a faulty thermistor, faulty wiring to the thermistor, or something wrong on the controller board where the thermistor connects to the microcontroller.
I would first make sure all the connections are not loose, and in the right places. Swapping a thermistor connector with some other type of connector may be able to cause a problem like this; typically a few different things use the same 2-pin JST type connectors.
If all the connections are right and you already replaced the hotend assembly (which includes a new thermistor, unless you moved the old one), your board is likely damaged.
(\*) Note that this still creates a potential heat/fire danger, because any heating that takes place won't be controlled by accurate measurements of the resulting temperature change! So don't operate it like this.
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Tags: troubleshooting, heat-management, temperature, thermistor
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|
thread-21346
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21346
|
Color phenomenon with MOPA Fiber laser on stainless steel
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2023-08-22T13:23:11.670
|
# Question
Title: Color phenomenon with MOPA Fiber laser on stainless steel
I just got a **20W MOPA fiber laser** and of course the first thing I do is mark color on **stainless steel**.
The center of the squares pictured are the color for which I set the settings. I am wondering why there are those columns of other color on the left and right sides.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I don't see one square with bars, I see two overlapping squares, as illuminated here:
The reason for them might be manifold, but to me, it seems the most likely cause is bad focussing or a mechanical issue, where between two passes the laser or workpiece were moved by a tiny amount. You also see this offset with the Y you see that there are two lines that are separated by the same distance as the two boxes are shifted to one another.
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Tags: laser
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|
thread-15441
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15441
|
How to stop stalagmite formation with translucent PETGs
|
2021-01-25T19:59:37.257
|
# Question
Title: How to stop stalagmite formation with translucent PETGs
I have had this issue with both Sunlu PETG (red) and TechnologyOutlet PETG (blue), both are translucent PETG filaments.
This is printed with a bowden setup, 5 mm retraction, 85 °C bed and 245 °C nozzle. I am convinced it is a retraction issue but it does not show up on my temperature towers.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It's wet.
This artifact (I love your name for it, stalagmites, and will have to remember/adopt that!) is always caused by wet filament. You may be able to get it to go away by using excessively long retractions, slowing down or speeding up retraction, speeding up travel moves, reducing temperature, or any number of other hacks, but the root cause is that your filament is wet, and many of these other attempts at mitigating the problem will harm the strength and other quality aspects of your prints.
Dry your filament. If it's PETG, it needs to be dried at 70°C or higher (probably up to 85 or 90 is okay) for at least 6 hours if you don't have active air circulation moving the moisture off. With a good dryer that does circulate air, 3-4 hours probably suffices. After that, it needs to be kept dry, in sealed dryboxes (not plastic bags) with generous amounts of desiccant, or re-dried every time you want to print with it.
Being newly opened from the sealed plastic bag the vendor sold it in does not mean it's already dry. It means it's 100% guaranteed to be wet. The tiny desiccant pack that was sealed in the package with it does not mean it's dry. You'd need 10-100x that much desiccant to keep it dry from the time of manufacture until the customer opens it. It just means the vendor is doing what customers expect to make themselves look like a decent-quality brand.
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Tags: petg
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|
thread-19907
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19907
|
Inconsistent Z-height on Ender 3 V2 print bed
|
2022-09-11T21:53:43.643
|
# Question
Title: Inconsistent Z-height on Ender 3 V2 print bed
I have an Ender 3V2 running a custom version of Jyers Marlin, and using a CR Touch as a Z-stop, and with a heated glass print bed. This is my first printer, and it mostly prints fine except when printing near the edges where some imperfections with bed leveling mess with bed adhesion and have definitely ruined a couple of my prints. The main issue is that the first layer is very uneven, where in some places filament it basically smeared onto the bed whereas in other places the filament is barely touching the bed. What's stranger still is that generally speaking, the infill seems to be more consistent in terms of z-height on the first layer, whereas the walls have much more variation. I've included some photos to illustrate the issue:
This is the entire leveling test I printed (it only tests the edges because the center is fine). This was run without UBL - I verified this as the Z axis motor didn't move during the print (it's only 1 layer).
This is what has been causing me the most issues. In the top right corner of the print, the wall filament basically disappears for about 1-2 inches because the nozzle is too close to the bed. This is pretty close to the top right leveling screw as well. You can also see that only the walls are affected, as the infill is pretty even across the same area.
Kind of the opposite issue in the bottom right compared to the top right, where the walls are printed too high off of the bed and start to string from poor adhesion. Once again, the infill seems to be ok (except in the corner).
**Things I've tried:**
* Leveling with a feeler gauge. Incidentally, I always had issues with the top left and right leveling screws, where the top left screw would always be too high up and would be hard to adjust because the screw would be too tight, and vice versa on the top right where the bed would always be too low and the knob would almost fall off by the time the top right was leveled high enough.
* Tightening/loosening belts. Doesn't help much, but I'm also not sure how tight the belts should be anyways.
* Enabling ABL/UBL with G29/M420 S1. It just... doesn't seem to work, the leveling print will come out the exact same each time no matter if ABL is activated or not. I guess this probably means it's not an ABL issue, or that if it's an issue with motors etc. it affects the sensor while it's leveling. That's the only explanation I can think of.
* Readjusting the frame so that everything is as close to square as possible. There is no wobble so I'm 99% sure that it's right, but I don't have access to one of those square rulers.
* The Z screw does not move/wobble when the motor moves, I re-tightened the coupler for the screw and the motor.
* I have not adjusted the X axis bar that holds the carriage and moves up and down, because the nozzle seems to be a little higher the further away from the side with the Z screw it is. From other help requests I've read online, it seems that usually issues with the X axis will result in the nozzle moving closer to the bed as it gets further away from the Z screw, which is not the case here. But would it be worth it to adjust it anyways?
Given that this is my first 3D printer it's really kind of put a damper on the experience for me as even though 75% of the things I print are small enough to avoid the problem area, I want to be able to use all of the print bed without issue. Any help, troubleshooting, or advice would be greatly appreciated!
Edit 1: Took off the X/Z carriages and found two abnormalities - not sure if these are causing the issue. The nozzle carriage has a bit of space between the bottom of the X-axis profile and the roller. It doesn't really wiggle during printing, but it could if I touched it; right now, the two rollers on top sit nicely on the profile. Also, these rollers all have a slightly discoloured ring where a little bit of material has been shaved off of the roller. The Z-axis rollers on the side opposite the lead screw are the opposite case, where the rollers have to be forced onto the structure since it's so tight.
# Answer
Just for anyone stumbling across this thread now: as it turns out, the wheels on the x-carriage (print head) were installed at a slight angle and not screwed in as tight as they were supposed to be, which probably led to some inconsistencies in printing.
> 3 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, jyers
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thread-21360
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21360
|
What is this type of clamp called?
|
2023-08-24T14:26:30.890
|
# Question
Title: What is this type of clamp called?
This is a flat, C-shaped metal piece with a singular hole at the bottom through which a grub screw assures that the heated bed and the glass plate are kept tightly together.
Looking for clamps, I've not found this one. I can get close through "glass clamp", but all of them have two screws.
Both plates together are about 9 mm in thickness.
# Answer
> 2 votes
These will commonly go by the term "bed clip". The problem with doing a search with those terms will not get the result you are looking for. Doing a search with the terms "3D printing bed clip" will get you what you are looking for.
There are different types and styles, so you will have to search for the particular one that you want.
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Tags: part-identification
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thread-21350
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21350
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Bad print quality, Temperature Fluctuates about +/- 8 degrees
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2023-08-23T00:39:12.310
|
# Question
Title: Bad print quality, Temperature Fluctuates about +/- 8 degrees
I've been having tremendously bad print quality lately and have been doing everything I can think of to fix it, none of it is helping. I tried printing a Temp Tower for the first time and since I was paying close attention to the temperature, I noticed that the printer is making some fairly wild temperature swings. My target temp is 200C and it's swinging between 192C and 207C back and forth, back and forth.
That is a video of test printing a cube. Took about 30 mins, video sped up 8x so you can watch the temp changes. It takes about 4 seconds in the video to swing from 192 to 207 so that was about 32 seconds in real time.
* Monoprice Maker Select Plus
* 1.75mm PLA (Hatchbox), bought a brand new box
* Cura 5.2.1
While trying to address the print quality, here are the things I've done before noticing the temperature fluctuations:
* replaced the nozzle
* replaced the bowden tube
* leveled the bed
* calibrated esteps
* tried brand new box of filament in case other filament absorbed moisture
* gently tightened the thermistor screw just so that it was snug, but not overly tight
Here's the thermistor connection on the hotend:
Any suggestions are welcome.
# Answer
> 2 votes
This looks like a an extruder PID tunning issue.
In Marlin ( I assume this printer use Marlin) there is a auto-tune command for the temperature PID (M303) you can check this page: https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/pid-tuning-marlin-firmware
You mentioned that you changed the sensor you need to be careful and ensure it is exactly the same type as the stock or to know exactly what type of sensor it is and ensure it is adequately set in the marlin settings a wrong sensor will give you an offset on the measured value but will not generate fluctuations by itself
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Tags: print-quality, pla, temperature, thermistor, monoprice-maker-select-plus
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thread-21358
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21358
|
Help me diagnose these print problems?
|
2023-08-24T00:18:41.143
|
# Question
Title: Help me diagnose these print problems?
I produced a cube model (XYZ) using a printer to test its capabilities. Could someone offer guidance concerning the issues visible in the image?.
Printer Used : Createbot F430 Slicer Used: Simplify 3D
# Answer
> 0 votes
These artifacts look like oozing during retract or unretract due to an excessively slow retract/unretract speed, but might also be related to misconfigured or lack of pressure advance/linear advance.
Based on the settings info you added to the question, I think this is a very plausible explanation.
The "extra restart distance" setting is probably the primary culprit. This is an **extremely misguided feature** and, with the configured value, is spewing out enough plastic to fill a whole 1.25 mm worth of linear movement (at typical layer height and line width). All this is ending up in one place as a blob. Turn that off (set it to zero) and the problem will almost surely go away. There is never a legitimate reason to extrude a fixed excess amount of plastic after each unretract, and doing so will cause **catastrophic nozzle collisions** dependent on your model geometry.
Beyond that, 2.0 mm is a very long retract distance for a direct drive, which I believe this machine has, and 15 mm/s is very slow retraction. Those combined make it take at least 1/7 of a second dwelling in place during retract/unretract, which could also ooze material. 0.3-0.8 mm is the usual reasonable range of lengths for direct drive, and 30 mm/s (1800 mm/min) or so a reasonable speed. Play with these, but set it back up closer to where you had it if you get stringing or other problems.
The coasting setting of 2 mm is really, really dubious too. Coasting is a hack to make up for printers with extremely outdated/bad firmware by underextruding. This doesn't seem to be the *cause* of your bulges, but it could be making them more noticeable by contrast between slightly over-extruded (from oozing) and severely underextruded lines juxtaposed. Coasting should always be off.
Assuming your printer has it (I would hope so at that price, but sometimes pricy printers are running really old firmware), you should also make sure linear advance is enabled and calibrated. This solves the problem that coasting was trying to solve, but does it in a way that's actually accurate and still extrudes the correct total amount of material, just modulating pressure up and down as it does so that it flows in the right places.
TL;DR: Set extra restart distance to 0, coasting to off, and maybe speed up and reduce the length for your retractions.
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Tags: 3d-models, simplify3d
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thread-21368
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21368
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Why does the PrusaSlicer trace random squares instead of the straight lines?
|
2023-08-25T13:22:53.297
|
# Question
Title: Why does the PrusaSlicer trace random squares instead of the straight lines?
I'm using an original Prusa MK3S and the PrusaSlicer as my slicing software.
I want to print this net shape with only one layer and a thickness of 0.3mm.
Intuitively, I would expect the slicer to trace the diagonal lines one after the other, e.g., from left to right, and then follow up with the perpendicular ones.
But when sliced with the PrusaSlicer, it traces the individual squares of the net in a seemingly random ordering.
I'm using all the default settings and a layer height of 0.3mm. Any ideas why the slicer does that? Printing the squares instead of the lines is probably more prone to breaking when bent.
# Answer
Your model is not printable the way you "intuitively" think it is:
> I would expect the slicer to trace the diagonal lines one after the other, e.g., from left to right, and then follow up with the perpendicular ones.
Once one direction of diagonal lines was finished, the other direction could only be drawn by "picking up the pen" over and over to draw each broken-up segment one at a time. Such a strategy has **a lot** of travel/retraction, and is thereby slow/inefficient and also higher risk for print errors. A pattern that snakes around in a continuous path, avoiding self-crossing as long as it can, is preferable.
However, the slicer doesn't even have that much high level reasoning at its disposal to choose between "these two options". It's just solving for a decent best effort at an optimization problem for covering all the perimeters which need to be printed, which is something akin to the travelling salesman problem or similar graph theoretic problems which are NP complete and thereby do not admit any efficient search for an optimal solution.
As an aside, you may notice that grid infill doesn't have this "problem". It prints the way you intuitively expected it to. This is because **the slicer cheats** and prints all of the crossing points twice. That often works out okay for infill, where it won't be visible, although lots of users, especially when printing at high speeds, run into problems with "self-intersecting infill patterns" where the sudden nozzle occlusion and resulting change in backpressure create broken extrusions and material sticking up past the layer height and colliding with subsequent layers. This kind of problem makes such a strategy a bad idea for the actual outer geometry of your print. But even if it weren't a bad idea, the slicer simply doesn't have a way of knowing "these features are ones the user wants me to print like infill". It's just solving the general problem of "print the perimeters for these polygonal regions", and in general, the solution doesn't look like an infill-specific hack.
> 1 votes
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Tags: prusaslicer
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thread-21371
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21371
|
Ender 3 printing fails with several Cura profiles
|
2023-08-26T23:21:36.840
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 printing fails with several Cura profiles
I have just purchased the Creality Ender 3 Printer and tried to print the model that comes with it on the SD card and the print was completed successfully with amazing quality details. So far, so good. After that, I downloaded Cura 3D printing software and installed it on my machine, and then tried to slice a model that I had just made with Fusion 360.
On the first try, I chose the standard quality Cura profile and saved it to the printer to print it but the print failed in the way the uploaded video. After playing around with some settings and trying to use some of the profiles that I found online, the same case with each new profile so I came across an idea if there is a way to extract the settings from the G-code file within the printer SD card and use to print the new 3D model.
Is there a way to extract the profile settings from in my case the `cat3.5h.gcode` file?
Or any other working solution for my problem such as a good cura profile to print with PLA filament
Video of print failure
# Answer
> 2 votes
That is not your Cura settings, it's just because your nozzle is too high off the print bed.
Any profile you use will fail unless you correct the nozzle height. Look up instructions for bed levelling on an Ender 3. It's pretty easy to do.
# Answer
> 1 votes
As the question is specifically asking for profile settings and not the problem with the Z-offset, this answer addresses the question at hand:
> Is there a way to extract the profile settings from in my case the `cat3.5h.gcode` file?
No, you cannot get the profile settings from the G-code file.
But, looking at the video, your nozzle is way too far from the bed. It looks as if the bed is too low (loosen the leveling screws) or lower the Z endstop.
Note that slicer settings in Cura do not affect the distance between the bed and the nozzle (this much as shown in the video), unless:
* You have installed a plugin allowing you to create an extra offset between the bed and the nozzle, or
* your model has not been dropped to the heated bed (unlikely, as this requires you to manually turn this off in the settings).
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Tags: creality-ender-3, ultimaker-cura, pla
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|
thread-21115
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21115
|
Water washable resin safety
|
2023-07-01T21:14:28.613
|
# Question
Title: Water washable resin safety
I recently spilled waste water from my resin printing onto a fabric cooler. The water was in a container I was using to cure leftover resin from cleaning finished prints by leaving it in the sun for a while. So there was an unknown amount of uncured resin in it after I had left it out for a few hours.
Is it likely that the cooler is permanently contaminated or should I be able to wash it and use it again? It isn't a really expensive one but also not really something I wanted to replace yet.
# Answer
I ended up calling the cooler a loss. I don't know what that resin will do embedded in the fabric of the cooler and I don't really want to drink poison when I am out on the beach or develop some sort of sensitivity from it. Ended up getting a new cooler as a gift so it all evened out.
> 1 votes
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Tags: resin, safety
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thread-21364
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21364
|
Creality Ender 5 S1, I can move z axis downwards but not upwards, Why?
|
2023-08-24T17:59:56.193
|
# Question
Title: Creality Ender 5 S1, I can move z axis downwards but not upwards, Why?
I bought a Ender 5 S1, 3d printer (without limit switch version), I could be able to asemble it. Every axis works fine, however I cannot make the printing platform move upwards from the GUI.
I can make Y axis and X axis move without any problem.But Z axis moves only down, not up.
I tried to fix it by installing the latest firmware 1.0.7, but it didn't worked.What can I do to debug or fix?
# Answer
I found the problem, My wide CRTOUCH power cable was loose. I am a begginer so I didn't reliazed that loose CRtouch Power cable was the problem
When CRTouch is loose, you cannot move the Z axis probably because of security issues.
> 1 votes
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Tags: z-axis, creality-ender-5, creality
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thread-21348
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21348
|
Add base to STL mesh?
|
2023-08-22T20:35:33.463
|
# Question
Title: Add base to STL mesh?
How do I add a base to the surface I'm trying to print?
Target machine is a Creality Ender 3 Pro.
I'm using numpy-stl and surf2stl to come up with the desired surface in python:
```
def SOquestion():
pᵢs = [i / 100 for i in range(50, 96, 1)]
pⱼs = pᵢs
X, Y = np.meshgrid(pᵢs, pⱼs)
Z = pₖGivenpᵢAndpⱼ(X, Y)
stlFile = "surfaceOfCriticalValues.stl"
surf2stl.write(stlFile, X, Y, Z)
theMesh = mesh.Mesh.from_file(stlFile)
plotFromStlFile(stlFile)
@np.vectorize
def pₖGivenpᵢAndpⱼ(pᵢ, pⱼ):
a = pᵢ * pⱼ / ((1 - pᵢ) * (1 - pⱼ))
return a / (a + 1)
```
I want this surface to be printable. I figure I could add the base to the mesh but I don't know how to draw all the triangles?
# Answer
You generated a single mesh surface from a mathematical formula. If you can export this surface, you have the first step to a 3D model!
To turn the mesh into a solid item, you are just a couple steps away:
* Import the mesh into blender
* swap into edit mode
* \[E\] to extrude
+ input a value that puts the resulting offset copy well below the item
* \[s\] to scale the selected vertices
+ \[Z\]
+ `0` to put them all on the sale Z height.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I don't know how `surf2stl` works, but in principle, given that you already have a way to make a single gridded surface, all you need to do is do that five more times:
1. Generate the same grid mesh but with all Z values at 0 (or whatever you want the bottom surface to be) instead of your $p\_k$ function value.
2. For each of the four sides, generate a mesh that is only one row wide, along the Z axis; one edge has $Z=0$ and the other edge has $Z=p\_k$, thus connecting the bottom to the top.
Make sure that the triangle winding order is correct (surfaces should be “facing outward”).
Then put all of these triangles in the same STL file and it will be printable.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: surface, build-surface
---
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thread-21382
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21382
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Gaps between perimeter walls on only part of the print
|
2023-08-31T06:42:58.887
|
# Question
Title: Gaps between perimeter walls on only part of the print
So I'm having a bit of a strange issue where I'm getting gaps between perimeter walls, but only on part of the print. Even more strangely, it doesn't happen with every print, though it will happen consistently on the same model if I print it more than once.
I know the go-to answer for an issue like this is `"You're under-extruding. Fix your e-steps or increase your extrusion multiplier"`, however I'm not sure that's the only issue at play here. I did try increasing my extrusion multiplier (tried both 1.05 and 1.10), and while the issue did improve, it didn't fully solve it. The print shown below was printed with an extrusion multiplier of 1.00.
Also worth noting is that there is a bulge in the side of the print toward the bottom, but I'm not sure if it's related to the perimeter wall gaps issue. I have no idea what would cause that.
---
## Basic Info
Printer: Ender 3 Pro
Filament: Hatchbox PLA ("gray blue")
Slicer Software: Slic3r
---
## Slicer Settings
> Note: I am only adding the settings I believe are relevant to the question. If you would like to see a setting not shown here, please let me know and I'll add it.
* Print temperature: 200 °C
* Bed temperature: 50 °C
* Installed nozzle is 0.6 mm.
---
## Print Images
This first picture is to show the orientation of the print on the print bed:
# Answer
You are using a larger than "standard 0.4 mm" nozzle. Large diameter nozzles cause flow volume to increase when the extruder etrusion speed is kept the same as for the standard nozzle which can cause extruding problems like underextruding.
The nozzle diameter increase appears marginal (as in "it is just an extra 0.2 mm in diameter", but actaully the nozzle increases 50 % in diameter), but has significant effects on the volume flow of the extrusion.
As seen from the table below, when increasing the nozzle diameter for the same printing speed, the volume flow increases from 1.26 mm³/s to 4.24 mm³/s which is a 337.5 % increase of the flow for the selected layer height (0.3 mm).
This increased flow must be created by your extruder/nozzle assembly and might fall out of the range it can produce for the current setting. Generally this **requires you** to **increase the printing temperature** or **decrease the printing speed**.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I had this in 3 new Ender 3 pro's. It was the nozzle was too small. I checked the output of the nozzles by extruding and measuring the filament after it hardened right at the nozzle. A good nozzle will measure exactly to the size.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality
---
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thread-21387
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21387
|
How much weight can the x motor support?
|
2023-09-01T15:11:46.800
|
# Question
Title: How much weight can the x motor support?
Speaking about any printer, in a general sense.
If I load up the X carriage with two hotends and two stepper motors in a direct-drive-way... Then surely the force applied by the x stepper motor will not translate to the intended distance of the carriage.
What I am getting to is: How do you ensure changing carriage weight does not change travel distance?
Where would you change something? Do you start at software-level, like there being a variable and an algorithm which you feed the weight to, or do you change the stepper motor, and so on?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Load does not change the distance a stepper travels unless it misses steps. That's why it's called a stepper and not a normal open-loop motor - it moves in discrete steps that are completed in their entirety or not at all.
If the motor can't move (actually: accelerate) the load you've given it, no amount of software-level stuff will change that. Giving it more current might. But generally, unless you've built an extremely rigid machine for extremely high usable acceleration/speed, these motors have more power than they can use without going way beyond the point where your print quality becomes unacceptable. For example the X motor on a stock Ender 3 can accelerate the stock carriage at nearly 100000 mm/s² if you really want it to (with input shaping; without it, the resonances will give you drastically increased reaction forces that make it skip steps much sooner, maybe at 6000-10000 mm/s²).
A more massive toolhead will be harder to accelerate, but the way you solve this is by using lower acceleration, or putting on a more powerful X motor. However, unless you're also doing serious vibration-reduction modifications to go with the increased mass, you won't even want to have more acceleration. The ringing will be bad.
---
Tags: x-axis
---
|
thread-21250
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21250
|
Can "unnecessary" supports be used effectively to improve bed adhesion on objects with a low surface contact area?
|
2023-07-28T18:43:12.527
|
# Question
Title: Can "unnecessary" supports be used effectively to improve bed adhesion on objects with a low surface contact area?
I have a number of models to print that are supposed to be orientated in a specific way for printing so the layer lines go in the same direction (purely aesthetic), and to ensure that shrinkage occurs evenly so that they fit together nicely (and so that you can fit more on the bed in one go).
For most of the models the suggested orientation is great, but some of the models have a very low contact area with the bed, which has caused me some problems with print failure.
The models are supposed to print support free, or with minimal supports.
Would adding supports in places that they are absolutely not necessary in order to provide me with more surface area help to improve bed adhesion on a Filament printer?
I know from experience that this is effective with rafts\skates on a resin print that pulls away from the print bed, but filament is different and I have minimal experience with it.
The top image is one such model in the official suggested orientation. It is designed to be completely support free, but has poor bed adhesion.
The bottom image has additional "unnecessary" supports added to give it a significantly increased surface area on the bed.
Is this an effective way to improve bed adhesion?
I understand that there are many other techniques that can be used to improve adhesion, such as using an adhesion promoting chemical (AKA Gluestick), or using rafts\brims, but could we please avoid discussing those here, as I want to focus in on one specific thing right now.
The printer is a Bambu P1P, but I also have an Ender 5. Plain matte PLA.
# Answer
Anything that increase the contact surface withe the bed and is attached with the part will help with adhesion, so using unnecessary support can work, however as you will have to build it for many layers it is neither efficient in terms of wasted material, nor in terms of time.
The solutions you do not want to discuss, notably the brim should solve this type of problem in a more efficient manner.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Yes, and despite being a waste of material, this is arguably a good strategy. A very tall and thin part like this not only has poor bed contact for adhesion, but may flex under change in direction of motion of the bed (under acceleration), or under drag from the toolhead as it extrudes new material. This is particularly a problem with less-rigid (even moreso with fully flexible, like TPU) material types. Flexing of the existing part of the print while new material is being deposited on top of it can produce dimensional inaccuracy of the final part, as the relative positioning of features is less than perfect.
Adding brims or modeled-in bed surface contact features or whatnot will do nothing to solve this problem, but "gratuitous" supports will.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: adhesion, support-structures, bambu
---
|
thread-21398
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21398
|
SuperSlicer model malfunction?
|
2023-09-05T09:10:05.610
|
# Question
Title: SuperSlicer model malfunction?
I just want to print this shower curtain ring:
For some reason SuperSlicer doens't like the circles and after slicing the model looks like this in preview.
What is the issue with the slicer? Is there any setting that I might have and ruin the model?
Thanks
# Answer
> 3 votes
At the moment I didn't find the exactly what option from config did this but after reimporting the preset everything is back to normal(possible something got corrupted in the preset or the app, I don't know for sure). I will still research to see what caused the issue for feature. Thanks all
---
Tags: 3d-models, slicing, superslicer
---
|
thread-19368
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19368
|
Changing the temp from 200/60 in any degree triggers thermal runaway
|
2022-05-10T15:53:26.927
|
# Question
Title: Changing the temp from 200/60 in any degree triggers thermal runaway
I am new to 3D printing and having a strange issue I don't understand and would love some help with. I have an Ender 3 Pro and when I use the settings 200 °C & 60 °C it prints fine. However, I want to change the bed to 55 °C as the bottom layers are melting a bit. I changed this in Cura to 200 °C & 55 °C and get a thermal runaway after 20 minutes or so. I hit resume and the same thing after about 20 minutes, however, the times vary.
I did a PID using the same set temps 200 °C & 55 °C and still thermal runaway. So I changed all the numbers back to 200 °C & 60 °C and ran a PID on this original temps and ran perfect (except for the first layers melting a bit)
The odd part is the bed temp holds fine when adjusted to 55 °C, it's the hot end that starts to drop a few degrees (5 degrees) which triggers the runaway. Is this a fan issue (currently at 100%)? Before I started changing things I wanted to ask here.
Looking forward to your feedback. BTW I am able to change the PID right on the machine and have no experience altering G-code or the knowledge but am willing to try?
# Answer
> 0 votes
Sounds like a thermostat problem, 60 degrees shouldn't be melting the first layers with PLA.
I would try manually checking the temperatures and move forwards from whatever results I got from that.
If the heats were fine, then I'd be inclined to return it as a faulty unit if it's under warranty.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Could be a bad thermistor, could just need a pid tune. I would start with pid tuning it, if that doesn’t work I would swap it for a new one. Don’t forget to pid tune the new one if you end up going that route.
---
Tags: temperature, thermal-runaway
---
|
thread-21372
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21372
|
Z-axis Calibration Fault in Prusa i3 MK3S
|
2023-08-27T09:55:44.870
|
# Question
Title: Z-axis Calibration Fault in Prusa i3 MK3S
When I give the print command from Pronterface this how it's printing. The Z value is 10.00, can't solve the issue even after first layer calibration being carried out.
# Answer
Reading your question, it seems that the Prusa i3 mk3 (which I also have) is set up for z=0 to be the proper height.
I do not use pronterface, so I don't know what special failures it may be causing. If the Prusa is calibrated for z=0 to be at bed level, and the printer is printing at z=10, and shows z=10 on the UI, then it is likely that it is being programmed for z=10. The question is, why?
Because the printer is calibrated, and is reporting that Z=10 at the point of failure, I do not suspect a mechanical problem with the printer.
I have sliced objects that were not properly touching the bed, which has caused this kind of offset. Perhaps you could check that the object appears to be flat on the bed before you slice. I had one case where a very thin spike stuck out of the mesh and lifted the object up (in the virtual slicer space) so that only the spike touched the bed, and since the spike was so small, it generated no extrusions.
There may also be calibration functions of pronterface to allow for adjustment to printers that are not properly calibrated. Since I don't use pronterface, I don't know it, but I would suggest reviewing all the deep and hidden menues for something to tweek.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, print-failure
---
|
thread-21406
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21406
|
Nozzle temp always reads 236 °C, even when it's room temp (Ender3 V2 Neo)
|
2023-09-06T19:27:36.920
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# Question
Title: Nozzle temp always reads 236 °C, even when it's room temp (Ender3 V2 Neo)
My first 3D printer, an Ender 3 V2 Neo. The original issue I was working to address was a clogged nozzle. The heat-block was caked in melted filament. At this point, I just chalked it up to a gap forming between the Bowden tube and the nozzle. I decided it was enough to replace the nozzle and the stock tubing. However, in my vain attempts to replace the nozzle while it was at room temperature, I had gone to town holding the heat-block in my left hand with pliers, and the nozzle with the included cone wrench with my right.
After learning why it's necessary to risk burning your fingers on a 240 °C nozzle while performing maintenance I was able to replace the nozzle. However, the problem carried over to nozzle #2. After inspecting conditions I thought the issue at this point was a gap between the heat-break and the heat-block/nozzle that formed due to my earlier "repairs".
I disassembled everything, removing the heat break from the heat sink, the heat block from the heat break, and cleaned them as best as I could. (My tom-foolery included removing the heating element from the heat block as I didn't know what a grub-screw was, and then experiencing how exciting it is when the heating element slips out of the heat block)
After putting everything back together again, the display began showing the current nozzle temperature at 236 °C. As in 236 °C is displayed regardless of whether I just turned the printer on, or if I manually set the temperature to 200 °C. The nozzle doesn't heat up and it's safe to touch. If I manually set the nozzle temp to 250 °C and wait, the display will show the nozzle heating up to 250 °C, however, the nozzle's no warmer than a sunny day.
While the printer sits idle I do periodically see temperature fluctuations of plus/minus 1 °C.
Being unable to fix the problem by working on the hotend I assumed something happened to the thermistor so I purchased an entirely new (stock) hotend.
After installing it I flipped the power switch and the nozzle was still at 236 °C.
I tried to replace the firmware, first by installing 1.1.5.2, I verified it installed through the info screen but there was no change in the temperature reading. I then installed the factory version, 1.1.4 again to no effect. (Creality's Downloads page)
All that's left is to replace the entire board which feels excessive for such a seemingly tiny issue. Am I missing something? I'm not able to find anything on Google that resembles my problem.
# Answer
If the temperature reading shows increases above 236 when heating, but can't show anything below, you have a short of approximately 300 ohms across the thermistor wires. This could be something wrong on the board or in your wiring to the hotend. You could try diagnosing this by measuring the resistance across the thermistor connector on the board. If you see somewhere around 300 ohms, the problem is on the board and unless you can find and fix the cause, you probably need to replace the board.
As an aside, if the board did not kick into thermal runaway protection during the entire time it took to heat from room temperature to over 235, during which no change in the read-back temperature occurred, the firmware has missing or broken thermal runaway protection and is unsafe to operate (severe fire hazard). You should check on this even if you get it working again.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I really suspect a defective or disconnected thermistor. Can you measure the **voltage across** the thermistor at the connector on the board when turned on? The value should change when you heat the hotend (use a hair dryer).
If the value does change, the error is in the firmware / board. If not, recheck your connections for continuity with a multimeter.
> 1 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, temperature, thermistor
---
|
thread-21400
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21400
|
Why is the Z probe offset easily adjustable in the printer UI, but not the X/Y probe offset?
|
2023-09-05T21:32:31.437
|
# Question
Title: Why is the Z probe offset easily adjustable in the printer UI, but not the X/Y probe offset?
I should mention that this is my experience with Marlin. I can adjust the Z offset all I want in the UI, but not the X/Y offset. If you reinstall the probe, I've heard you may need to adjust the Z offset (makes sense, you might not mount in the exact same way). I assume X/Y offsets get affected as well, so it doesn't make much sense to me that you'd have to rebuild the firmware to adjust those values. Maybe they're less sensitive to change? Anyways, not sure what makes them special enough to exclude from the UI.
My printer seems to work okay using a prebuilt firmware, though it could just as easily be pointlessly leveling 50 mm off of the nozzle for all I know.
# Answer
> 0 votes
1. Usually you install the sensor once and keep it unchanged for years. Nozzle, though, is an element people, depending on printer usage, replace semi-frequently and the Z offset will change with different nozzles, different tightness, etc.
2. XY probe offset has very little importance - your bed level changes very little over distances of order of 1 cm, so 1 cm of error in XY probe offset is negligible. Meanwhile, even 0.05 mm Z offset difference impacts first-layer adhesion significantly.
On a separate note, you don't need to rebuild the firmware to change the probe offset. You just need an interface (USB cable) and terminal (Pronterface) that allows you to communicate with the printer using G-code. First issue `M501` to load the configuration from EEPROM, then `M851` with the right X, Y values to set the XY offset, then `M500` to save the changes to the config to EEPROM. No firmware update is needed.
---
Tags: z-probe, automatic-bed-leveling
---
|
thread-21388
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21388
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Can level every where except the center of the bed
|
2023-09-01T19:30:25.187
|
# Question
Title: Can level every where except the center of the bed
Every time I try to level my Ender 3 v2 I get all the corners perfect when pulling paper in between. But for some reason, if all the corners are good the middle/center still has a bigger gap like 2-3 paper sheets. The prints do still look “OK” but I do have some sections where the lines won’t melt together.
# Answer
A trick that helps a little is to put some kapton tape on the underside of the bed in areas that are too low - the glass has a little flex and it's possible to remove some warping that way, though 2-3 sheets of paper worth may be too much, plus you compromise heat transfer a bit.
If the tape isn't enough you can either get a new bed plate (either glass or upgrade to magnetic) or - IMO best option - get an ABL probe. It will compensate for the warping and make your life much easier.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-21416
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21416
|
What problems to expect when operating a 3D printer on a ship?
|
2023-09-11T04:42:58.493
|
# Question
Title: What problems to expect when operating a 3D printer on a ship?
I want to operate a 3D printer on a ship. This brings up some issues. I want to estimate how likely it is to get usable results under conditions on a moving vessel.
First, it is impossible to level the platform and keep it balanced on which I want to install the printer. Any ballasting operation will tilt the plane even when berthed. This, of course, rules out several printing technologies, such as stereolithography, laser sinter printing, etc., which rely on gravity to keep the materials in a fixed position. In my opinion, the only technology that is more or less tolerant of slight inclinations of the printer bed is FDM.
However, a ship is also moving. Even when berthed, it will respond to waves and wind. I do not intend to use a printer in rough sea listing to 10° or more. However, under rather calm conditions (2 m wave height), we reach +/- 2° list and +/- 1° pitch easily at turn rates of 50 mrad/s. Linear accelerations are +/- 0.1 m/s<sup>2</sup> (X and Y) and +/- 0.4 m/s<sup>2</sup> (Z).
I'm aware that an FDM printer will be affected by acceleration and position. Position changes will alter the vector of gravity pulling on the printer's mechanics, and acceleration will superimpose another force. Of course, an error will be introduced. How big that error is will depend primarily on the stiffness of the mechanics and slackness of bearings and support.
Has anybody had experience with a moving coordinate system (most likely on board any vehicle) while printing with an FDM printer? What problems do I expect when using a printer with actors in the most common cartesian coordinate system (X, Y, Z) on a ship?
# Answer
While your conceptions of "leveling" might apply to SLA or SLS, they are misconceptions with respect to FDM. "Leveling" the bed in FDM **is not about leveling** but about squaring it with respect to the rest of the motion system. There is no need for it to be "level" with respect to gravity. FDM printers operate leaning diagonally or hanging sideways off of walls (typical in some print farm configurations with auto ejection), upside down (e.g. the Positron), or in any other configuration you like. There are even printers setup to be carried as backpacks, printing while the wearer is in motion. Being on a ship, with extremely slow changes in orientation from the movement of water and the vessel, is **completely irrelevant to FDM**.
If you want some numbers, the accelerations you cited, 100 mm/s² in X/Y and 400 mm/s² in Z, are at least an order of magnitude below what a decent FDM printer experiences constantly as part of printing. Nowadays, good printers print at 5000-15000 mm/s² nominal acceleration, and experience additional forces from pseudo-instantaneous changes of velocity at the boundaries between linearizes segments comparable to another 2000+ mm/s².
> 4 votes
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Tags: bed-leveling, fdm
---
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thread-21412
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21412
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Why are the exposure times for clear and translucent resins so different?
|
2023-09-10T10:46:06.397
|
# Question
Title: Why are the exposure times for clear and translucent resins so different?
According to the official Elegoo resin sheet, the standard layer exposure to for clear resin is 8 seconds per layer, while the translucent resin is only 3.5 seconds.
For comparison, standard Gray is 2.5.
Official Elegoo data sheet
Both resins produce a similar effect, except one has less tendency towards yellowing.
Why are their exposure times so dramatically different?
# Answer
> 3 votes
In a clear resin, which cures by light not every light particle will hit an optical active region in the resin's molecules. Especially if the layer of the resin to cure is rather thin. For a given layer thickness there's a percentage of light which will be absorbed and a percentage of this percentage will initiate the curing reactions. The more curing reactions started within a period in a given volume the faster the curing process will be finished.
Translucent materials contain particles which scatter incoming light. Of course the designers of a resin will choose particles which scatter that light while absorbing only a minimal share of it.
This will prevent the majority of photons from crossing the layer on the shortest path. This again will increase the number of initiated reactions in a given volume of resin for a constant flow of light. Of course this is some sort of tradeoff, as with too much scattering the curing speed will reduce on the distant end of the resin layer.
---
Tags: resin
---
|
thread-21421
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21421
|
Cura 5.4.0 Added "Print as support" Cylinder adds support to regions where there is no model. How to limit support to those areas that need it?
|
2023-09-11T21:33:18.127
|
# Question
Title: Cura 5.4.0 Added "Print as support" Cylinder adds support to regions where there is no model. How to limit support to those areas that need it?
I added a cylinder object to my model and changed the object type from normal to "Print as support." After slicing, the cylinder appears as support but this support exists in areas where there is no normal model (it's just supporting air).
This article How to Add Manual Support in Cura states:
> Cura offers a selection to "print as support". That will print the whole cube as support. We just want the area under the leg within the cube. So choose that setting from the drop down menu.
The article doesn't clearly state what that setting is and Cura 5.4.0 has no drop down menu. How do I get the support associated with this print-as-support cylinder to be generated for only those areas that are below the normal model?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Working with manual supports like the one you added, you are fully manual, no automatic options to adjust them - they are intended to be used in situations where the automation has already failed after all.
So - select (click in the work area) the support, and use scale, translate, rotate options to make it the size that does what you want and little-to-no more. Unchecking even scaling will allow you to smoosh it into a thin ellipse which you can place under suspended edges. You can even tilt it to act as a makeshift tree support, just make it taller than needed and sink a part under the plate so the adhesion layer is wide enough. You can also overlap it in significant part with the printed object - Cura will correctly trim around the skin of the object, making sure it's supported and not permanently glued into the support.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, support-structures
---
|
thread-21425
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21425
|
Equipment for starting with SLA printing
|
2023-09-12T12:00:40.737
|
# Question
Title: Equipment for starting with SLA printing
I am completely new to 3D printing and want to start with SLA printing. I found the Anycubic Photon Mono 2 printer, but on the ordering page, there are options for "Airpure" and "Wash & Cure" machines.
I do not know what these are, nor if they are needed for SLA printing. Can someone explain the function of these items, and if they are needed for SLA?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The Airpure is an air filtration device for use **inside** the SLA printer to scrub the air for fumes.
The Wash & Cure machines are to rinse the resin off of the printed model. Since the resin is UV reactant, the "Cure" part of the device is to solidify the model into a solid form. (Note: This is a two-step process)
While these devices are absolutely necessary (you could come up with other solutions) they are readily-made solutions by the same manufacturer.
I would recommend watching some YouTube videos on SLA or resin printing to understand the use of the Wash & Cure machines.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Airpure can be replaced with a good fan and duct that sucks fumes out from the printer and vents them outdoors away from any living creatures. Not practical in many situations, but can be much cheaper if your situation allows.
I've seen a hobbyist making excellent prints where his "Wash & Cure" were a big jar with a lid, filled with isopropanol (to be shaken vigorously with the print inside) and a UV flashlight (to shine at the print from all directions).
What you really shouldn't skimp on is a good quality rebreather and eye protection.
---
Tags: sla, uv-printer, anycubic-photon
---
|
thread-21432
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21432
|
How to harden / strengthen the teeth of a 3D print
|
2023-09-13T23:54:04.470
|
# Question
Title: How to harden / strengthen the teeth of a 3D print
I have a 3D object that I print with 0.6 mm nozzle and white PETG. At the moment I can't print the layers in another direction since I use 3D printed threads. The object is a de-seeder bit for the sorrel fruit. **Some of the teeth break off when using it** (see red arrow showing the missing tooth that breaks off when used below).
If you want to see how it's used, I have provided an animation/video of it.
I was wondering if there was a way to increase the strength of the teeth on the bits from breaking. I was thinking of using some type of nail hardener but was wondering if that would work or if I should try and use something else.
I'm also willing to try a different 3D material but it needs to be able to withstand summer heat in Florida in a garage which gets to be 97 °F or 36.11 °C and be printed with an E3D Revo 6 nozzle (which is like a hardened steel nozzle). PLA will just melt/turn rubbery.
# Answer
> 2 votes
## Alter geometry
You experienced one of several factors of print strength:
* the layer-layer boundary is always weakest
So, we need to make sure to strengthen that as much as possible. Let's start with the shape as it is:
Now, how can we increase the strength? Layer-layer strength is linear to area, so can reduce the number of teeth. Next, thicken the walls - two is already more than twice as strong while 4 to 5 is hefty strong.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I think you already know that in this print orientation, the tooth breaks off easily. Maybe you can try to print this thing in two parts? Use a horizontal orientation to print the saw-tooth ( with its complicated structure, using organic support might be good) and later combine with the thread?
The other things that I can suggest are:
1. Is it possible to make the saw-tooth base wider and thicker, although it will result in a reduced number of teeth in the circle and also make the centre hollow bore smaller? This will increase the surface area bonding the layers in the tooth, thus giving it more strength.
2. Try altering the printing temperature and layer height. Generally higher temp and lower layer height result in greater strength. You can check out a great 3D Printing YouTuber CNCkitchen's articles:
3. Yeah, using another material such as ABS would give better strength and heat resistivity. But it's also harder to print.
---
Tags: print-material, petg, print-strength
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thread-21437
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21437
|
Ender 3 v2 with CR Touch/BLTouch moving down but not up
|
2023-09-14T14:33:06.890
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 v2 with CR Touch/BLTouch moving down but not up
My Ender 3 v2 with a CR Touch/BLTouch installed is only moving down, but not up! The display shows `P Endstop` when I try to move below around halfway up the gantry. What's going on, and how do I fix this?
# Answer
Your CR Touch/BLTouch is not connected properly. Check the cable that runs from the mainboard to the probe on both ends. It may be slightly loose, so make sure to push both ends of the cable all the way in.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: bltouch, ender3
---
|
thread-20675
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20675
|
Resin mechanical properties during the print process, immediately after light hardens it
|
2023-03-12T04:36:50.020
|
# Question
Title: Resin mechanical properties during the print process, immediately after light hardens it
# Resin specifications
There are datasheets available for SLA resin mechanical properties. Like this Formlabs' General Purpose Resin datasheet.
They present mechanical properties for two cases.
## First case
> Data was obtained from green parts, printed using Form 2, 100 μm, Clear settings, without additional treatments.
## Second case
> Data was obtained from parts printed using Form 2, 100 μm, Clear settings and post-cured with 1.25 mW/cm² of 405 nm LED light for 60 minutes at 60 °C.
# Table
# Question
I need to know the mechanical properties immediately after the resin is hardened by the projected light. Would the *first case* above provide my desired info?
# Answer
## Green parts are "off the printbed"
The term "green" is from the manufacture of ceramics: a piece of ceramic is green when it has not been burned in the oven. In this state, the ceramics - think about clay and porcelain \- can be still somewhat manipulated and are usually much softer and less sturdy than after burning. More precisely, a resin 3D print print right off the bed would be comparable to somewhere between stages one and two for its behavior.
Since the UV-light curing station does what the oven does for the ceramics, the term for a "raw" print has been taken from there. So right of the bed it's "green", and after it was in the UV light it's "cured".
## Note the terms!
Tensile strength is the strength in *tension* so pulling. It says nothing about the compressive strength. Either you find them in different sections of the MSDS or you might need to run additional tests to get for example compressive strength, or the density of the printed resin.
### Density increase
Usually, the density of the printed resin increases as the bonds between molecules tighten the more they cure. As the bonds shorten somewhat and tighter interknitting happens, the print also shrinks somewhat between their green and cured states. This behavior is also where a lot of the stresses that cause buckling and warping come from, leading to the need for reinforcement ribs and minimum thickness of walls to avoid warping.
Look at the two pictures from Adam Savage's Tested. In the first, the decorative ribs warped under stress while curing, in the second, the lack of reinforcement ribs lead to the lower bottom bending upwards (and the side walls out), most noticeable at the 'top' edge of the cutout. They start to address this print failure about here.
As formlabs told @megidd in an email, their resin goes from 1.13 to 1.14 \[g/cm^3\], an increase of about 0.8%, which will induce some stresses in the model, resulting in shifting tensile and compressive parameters between the green and cured state.
## Some operations are easier on green prints!
There are operations that are easier on perform on a green print where the plastic itself is softer and less brittle. Among those operations often is the removal of support structures and of the beads where the support structure was attached, and even placing threaded inserts.
However, the green state is time-limited due to the nature of the beast. Even normal daylight does contain some UV so that longtime exposure will ultimately transfer the model to the fully cured state over time. In between the fresh print and the fully cured print, the parameters will slowly shift till they (almost) reach those from a UV bath.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I contacted Formlabs at support@formlabs.com and received answers:
### Formlabs Services answer 1
> The green tensile strength is valid only for layers that have finished solidifying during the 3D printing process. So in effect, as the part is being printed, each section that has solidified is in its green state where the green tensile strength applies.
>
> Other that that, there is a moment in time for each scanline of a layer while it is being lased/polymerized, where the tensile strength will be something less than that green tensile strength, until the laser moves from that location and that section solidifies.
### Formlabs Services answer 2
> We have not tested compressive strength for our materials at the moment, so we would not be able to provide any data on that specifically.
> Regarding mass density of our standard resins, they will be 1.08, 1.13, and 1.14 \[g/cm^3\] in their liquid, green, and postcured states respectively.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: resin, print-material, sla, print-strength, dlp
---
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thread-21443
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21443
|
New print job not working out well
|
2023-09-16T04:30:27.807
|
# Question
Title: New print job not working out well
I'm just learning and have calibrated my new Bambu Lab P1P 3D Printer. I printed the built-in scraper—amazing quality.
But I downloaded this Stiga Ping Pong Table Feet
And printed this twice to get this result:
My next print job did the same:
It seemed like the part wasn't staying on the bottom and that was messing everything up.
Ideas? lessons learned?
# Answer
Most probably this is caused by an adhesion problem. When the first layer doesn't stick well enough, this could be related to wrong bed temperature, incorrect distance between nozzle and bed, incorrect initial layer height and incorrect print temperature.
When the print detaches from the bed it will wander over the place creating blobs and spaghetti-like objects as shown in your images.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, print-failure
---
|
thread-21450
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21450
|
Can I use 3 kg filament spools in an Ender 6 3D printer?
|
2023-09-17T22:26:05.243
|
# Question
Title: Can I use 3 kg filament spools in an Ender 6 3D printer?
In order to save some money on a project, I'm considering using 3 kg spools on my Ender 6. However, I never attempted this before, and could not find a firm stance on the web.
**I know that it is possible to build a filament hanger/holder separately, but is it necessary on the Ender 6?**
For reference, the spool hanger/holder on my Ender 6 extends **9 cm** outwards of the printer.
The filament loaded in the printer (see photo) is a 1 kg white PLA. The dimensions of the filament drawing are for the 3 kg filament to be used.
# Answer
> 3 votes
While editing this question and analyzing the input the community provided, I've concluded that it is not possible to use a 3 kg filament spool directly on the Ender 6.
The actual answer depends on the filament spool dimensions you are going to work with.
For one thing, the spool hanger has a length of only 9 cm, while the filament spool has a width of 10.2 cm. I don't think it is a good idea to leave the spool hanging loose.
Secondly, the filament spool would hit the filament shortage sensor.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I would absolutely make a more sturdy spool holder that is designed for 3KG filament spools. Spools tend to be filled up to the rim these days, so support your spools as good as you can to ensure straight unwinding.
You really don't want to come back to your printer making a terrible grinding noise where the filament has come off the spool sideways or the spool has fallen off the holder.
---
Tags: filament, creality-ender-6
---
|
thread-21449
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21449
|
Not leveling and not printing correctly
|
2023-09-17T15:45:19.460
|
# Question
Title: Not leveling and not printing correctly
I have had the Ender 3 S1 for a couple of months but in the last couple of days, prints kept messing up so I decided to try to level it again. Everything moves like it is supposed to but then the light starts blinking red and it stops the leveling process. How do I fix this?
# Answer
I've read something similar on reddit and according to users it's a known issue fixed about 7 months ago. Try update the FW.
> -1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, print-quality, troubleshooting, bed-leveling
---
|
thread-21460
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21460
|
Any good way to recycle filament?
|
2023-09-22T14:36:15.587
|
# Question
Title: Any good way to recycle filament?
With a good amount of failed prints, I now have a bunch of filament that is... trash.
Is there a good way to recycle it, or any services that you send them your lost filament to then melt it back into a new filament?
I kinda hate the amount of trash im producing with 3d printing.
# Answer
Many makers will reuse the filament from spaghetti prints as filler material when joining print sections together. Usually by heating it along the seams.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: pla, filament, recycling
---
|
thread-15307
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15307
|
No stepper motor movement on Ender 3 Pro
|
2021-01-13T17:03:31.280
|
# Question
Title: No stepper motor movement on Ender 3 Pro
I've recently updated my Ender 3 Pro to the latest Marlin 2.0 firmware and when I press autohome or try to move the axis, I hear a very quiet noise from the motors trying to move and then they just don't. I did get an error message about EEPROM when I first booted the printer after flashing but I just pressed reset and the issue hasn't come back even after trying multiple different firmware versions.
# Answer
This is a theoretical assumption, but I suppose that your steps/mm values are now wrong in the EEPROM - specifically that they are set to 0 (**zeroed steps per mm**)? Could you please use the LCD and navigate to *Configuration \> Advanced Settings \> Steps per mm* and check what values are set there? If there are zeros, could you set them to positive values (e.g. =80) and check homing again? Then save the changes using *Configuration \> Store Settings*.
I just made the following test proving that this may be the cause. I set steps per mm for X=0 (executed G-Code: `M92 X0` from serial terminal) and tried to move X. The stepper motor was enabled (quiet noise or hiss), but it didn't move at all. There was no additional feedback e.g. on LCD. Pretty similar.
If this is not the only broken setting, then option *Configuration \> Restore Defaults* should reset the EEPROM to values defined in Marlin's configuration. I needed to perform *Configuration \> Store Settings* to make it persistent. But this will reset many other values, so I would suggest writing down all current values from LCD before doing the reset, for reference in future (in case they were valuable). And you still may not see all of the settings on the LCD, therefore I would use G-code for this operation - see below.
These operations can be also performed from a serial terminal using G-Code commands: M503 to verify and copy the current configuration, and M502 followed by M500 to perform a factory reset.
> 1 votes
# Answer
In your platformio.ini file check the `default_envs` variable if it's `mega2560` set it to your board type, this video from ruiraptor explains how to get your board type. It fixed it for my Ender 3.
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, firmware
---
|
thread-20075
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20075
|
Netfabb Premium 2023 supported printer list
|
2022-10-15T08:10:41.747
|
# Question
Title: Netfabb Premium 2023 supported printer list
Do anyone knows if Flashforge adventurer 3/4 are supported by Netfabb Premium 2023? I can not find a printer list.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You have to search harder next time :)
https://help.autodesk.com/view/NETF/2023/ENU/?guid=GUID-87CA46ED-E590-45FC-93D2-B72A3EA68554
---
Tags: desktop-printer
---
|
thread-21341
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21341
|
How come certain parts of my model don't print?
|
2023-08-22T06:11:56.497
|
# Question
Title: How come certain parts of my model don't print?
I use Elegoo Cura.
The blade and other parts of my print do not get sliced, and I don't know how to fix it
This is what is meant to be printed:
And this is what the print looks like, with the holes inverted, handle gone and the entire blade gone:
Appreciate any help.
# Answer
The model has surfaces that are inverted. This is most notable with how the hole in the grip is turned into a cylinder, or the cutout in the blade being turned into a block.
To fix this, you need to fix the model.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Bad model, as Trish says. Now onto how to fix it.
Install Blender and open it.
Go to **Edit** \> **Preferences** \> **Add-ons**.
Select the **Mesh: 3D Toolbox** plugin and install it.
Restart Blender.
Import your STL (**File** \> **Import** \> **STL**). Press `N` to bring up the sidebar if not already visible, find the **3D Print** tab and select it, and open the **Clean Up** subsection. Select your model in the main view (left-click it so it has an orange outline) and click **Make Manifold**.
The process may take a while, and Blender will be unresponsive throughout. After it completes, you'll see a message on the bottom: "Modified:" and some numbers of elements fixed. Repeat **Make Manifold** until "Modified:" shows only zeros.
Make sure the repaired mesh is selected (orange outline). Pick **File** \> **Export** \> **STL**, and make sure you check **Selection only** then save the fixed mesh.
As of now, this is the easiest, most comprehensive, and most successful auto-repair option for meshes. That's not to say it's extremely successful—if the mesh is a hot mess, it may not help, it may even make things worse. In that case, you're up for a manual repair—you may need to look into more advanced repair tips, like from CG Boost's YouTube video "How to Solve Common Sculpting Problems in Blender".
> 0 votes
---
Tags: elegoo-neptune-3
---
|
thread-18151
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18151
|
Inconsistent layer widths and uneven outer walls
|
2021-09-28T12:57:46.613
|
# Question
Title: Inconsistent layer widths and uneven outer walls
I have problems with layer widths and uneven outer walls on my 3D prints. Sometimes layers are squeezed and sometimes pushed outside. I noticed that these problems happen when there are retractions on layers. I don't have problems with round and simple objects without changes on layers or where all layers are identical.
I think that this can be linked with pressure in the nozzle or retraction. It looks like sometimes the pressure is too high and it's pushing too much filament and sometimes it's too low and it's not pushing enough filament. In this picture, layers in the first circle are squished in and it looks like there is not enough filament being pushed from the nozzle. In the second circle layer is pushed out and is wider than other layers. Looks like there is not enough filament being extruded at the start of the layer and too much being extruded at the end.
This problem happens always on the same layers, where there are some retractions on these layers. I tried to print the same objects multiple times and it always occurs on the same layers.
What have I did to fix this problem:
* calibrated e-steps and slicer flow,
* tightened belts,
* different slicers (Cura, PrusaSlicer),
* different filaments (e.g. PrusamentPLA),
* disabled combing in slicer,
* printed with and without infills,
* different retraction distance (from 3 mm to 8 mm),
* different retraction speeds (from 20 mm/s to 80 mm/s),
* different retraction accelerations (from 500 to 1500),
* different hotend temperatures (from 200 °C to 230 °C),
* slow printing speed (up to 15 mm/s),
* calibrated K-factor (also tried many values from 0.0 to 2.0),
* calibrated junction deviation (also tried many values from 0.0 to 0.3),
* printed with and without cooling.
I think, that disabling coasting and changes in retraction settings helped a little, but not too much.
My setup:
* Ender 5, SKR mini E3 V1.2
* Capricorn PTFE Bowden tube,
* printing with PLA, but this problem also occurs with PETG.
The most similar issue I've found is this question, Inconsistent Layer Issues, but this didn't resolve my problem.
**How can I get rid of inconsistency in layers widths and get smoother outer walls?**
---
I calibrated K-factor with K-factor Calibration Pattern and discovered that lines are always thicker after retraction at the start of the line and thinner at the end of the line. Then I generated and printed test files to confirm this. My lines are always thicker at the start of the line and they get thinner later. This is the problem presented in the second picture.
I printed 3 cubes (dimensions of a cube: X=0.2 mm, Y=100 mm, Z=10 mm). This is the result.
This is the best representation of my problem. The order of printing was as follows: 1 -\> 2 -\> 3 -\> 4 -\> 5 -\> 6 -\> 1 -\> 2 etc. There are under extrusions at the end of the second and third line (points 4 and 6) and under extrusion at the start of the first line (point 1). These under extrusions are before (points 4 and 6) and after (point 1) travel moves.
**What can cause this problem?**
# Answer
> 2 votes
That kind of issues can be related to multiple causes:
* Heated bed operated in "bang bang" mode (heater on until set temp reached, turned off until set temp minus threshold is reached, and so on), which causes periodic expansion and contraction. *It is solved by using PID algorithm for bed heating*
* The slicer is set with a minimum layer time and the part is not big, resulting in a lower extrusion speed for smaller layers, and higher extrusion speed for larger layers (of course up to the value set in the slicer). When you have a Bowden system with single gear (like Enders do), the extrusion is not linear: the more you ask, the bigger the gap between what you ask and what you get. See this (orange line, from Testing bimetallic heat breaks):
In other words, slower (smaller) layers extrude more plastic and look fatter. *The way to solve is to get a dual drive extruder and by improving the quality of the hotend, for example by installing a bimetallic heat break (see grey line above).*
In your case, image 1 and 2 appear to be related to variable extrusion, and image 3 to bed heating.
# Answer
> 2 votes
> I noticed that these problems happen when there are retractions on layers. I don't have problems with round and simple objects without changes on layers or where all layers are identical.
Based on the above, this is not a heat related problem. It's likely inconsistent amounts of material lost from the nozzle just prior to the affected walls. This could be due to oozing during travel without retraction (make sure combing is either off or has a "Max Comb Distance With No Retrace" set very low, \< 1 mm) or due to inconsistently unsupported infill structure. One cause for the latter is discussed on this issue report I filed for Cura, though it could happen in other ways as well. This is particularly bad with bowden extruders; ever since I switched to direct drive it mostly went away. But to avoid it with bowden, I had to turn off zig-zaggify infill and use only infill patterns where each layer fully supports the one above it (e.g. triangles).
# Answer
> 0 votes
Noone ever talks about changing the order in which the outer walls are printed. Default settings are usually set to inner/outer, you should try outer/inner to see if that helps.
---
Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting, extrusion, retraction
---
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thread-21474
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21474
|
College student personal project - developing a 3D printer design, seeking guidance
|
2023-09-26T19:19:28.240
|
# Question
Title: College student personal project - developing a 3D printer design, seeking guidance
I am currently a junior studying mechanical engineering. I have been wanting to start a personal project focusing on 3D printing/printers for a while, yet I have been struggling to develop a course of action.
Some topics that I've been thinking of addressing include:
1. Speed and sound: work to create a printer that is fast, but does not sacrifice low sound levels for higher speeds. I feel as if this is simply a motor optimization problem.
2. Experiment with 4 or 5-axis printers: Probably one of the most difficult options, but it sounds like people want the higher-axis/higher degree of freedom printers to be more commercialized.
3. Large print volume: 'nuff said!
How do you all feel about these ideas? Would you suggest other topics or ideas? I am seeking any guidance I can get, as I really want to make an impact.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Most of all, I would ask yourself what you want to get out of this. Is it just engineering experience, or something you'd actually make good use of (moreso than a printer you could just buy), or some combination of the two?
While more-than-3-axis printers are very cool, I would lean against that option unless you really want this to be a **software project** too. The big reason they haven't taken off isn't that the engineering is hard (although it does have some challenges), but that the slicing software is not there to take advantage of them, so you end up having to either do the gcode "by hand" or hack together a primitive slicer whose output is so much worse than just living with 3-axis but all the modern path generation of mainstream slicers.
I think I agree with your assessment about low-noise. Also, for high speeds, with most materials you need **heavy** cooling, which is a lot louder than motion system noise.
Large build volume could be interesting, especially if it's something you could use. So many of the large build volume projects I see are not really well-engineered, just scaled up with no consideration for how that affects rigidity/accuracy. Making a large form printer that prints at high quality and decent speed is a fairly hard engineering problem, and one that you might enjoy and learn a lot from.
There's also an option to try different kinematic systems, which have a lot of different engineering tradeoffs in:
* BOM (parts) size/cost/complexity
* Rigidity
* Sensitivity to inaccuracies in build procedure
* Speed and acceleration capabilities
* Ease of enclosure
* How motion component sizes scale with desired build volume
etc. etc. etc.
Beyond whatever ideas you might get from folks here on SE, in my experience, some of the best communities for getting ideas and feedback on custom printer designs are the Rolohaun and Annex Engineering Discord servers. The former is more novice hobbyist/DIY geared while the latter is more extreme performance geared, but both are friendly to this kind of activity.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, printer-building
---
|
thread-746
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/746
|
Scan to vector?
|
2016-03-14T18:06:59.337
|
# Question
Title: Scan to vector?
I have some design diagrams only on paper. Scanning them to bitmaps is easy, but I've had no luck getting useful vectors out of them. I've tried vectorizers in programs like gimp, and a few online services. Generally, I end up with enormous numbers of spurious vectors (from dust, dotted lines, text on the diagram, slightly variations in scanning contrast, etc).
What tools and/or techniques can I use to get a more useful vector result, that I can then modify in a normal CAD tool without spending absurd amounts of time cleaning it all up first?
# Answer
> 2 votes
There is the capable but somewhat expensive Scan2CAD.
Otherwise, if you're happy with outlines and not centre lines, scan b&w, aggressively clean up macules, mask off text, and then vectorize in potrace, autotrace, etc. Alternatively, load the bitmap at the correct resolution into a drawing package as a raster layer and draw the lines/objects you want over it. This avoids the horrors of dotted lines.
Both ways are quite a bit of work, sadly.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I would recommend using something like Paint.NET to "fix" the images before attempting to convert them to CAD.
To my knowledge, most of the Image-to-CAD applications are going to use the grayscale intensity of each pixel to get the Z-axis value. So, you can help this process by pre-filtering the image into grayscale and playing with the contrast until you get enough distinction between the features you want to stand out in your CAD model or print. Here's a quick example using a sample image:
Poor Contrast
Better Contrast
Whichever program you use will generally have an easier time detecting the edges of the flower pedals in the second image the further towards the center it goes.
GIMP has greyscale and contrast tools as well.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I used Corel Draw with good results in professional setting. It's not a breeze - first you clean up the bitmap as well as you can in a bitmap editing program like Photoshop or Gimp - use gradient tool to make the brightness of background roughly even across the entire image, then 'curves' to enhance content and white-out backgrounds, then you import it to Corel and tweak the vectorization settings to produce actual vector borders for the lines (as opposed to tracing edges of individual pixels on one end of the scale, or cutting corners and turning circles into octagons on the other end.) Once you have the image vectorized, you still need to delete all the "floaters" manually - dust specks and so on. The results though can be "good enough for production".
# Answer
> -3 votes
My pictures are saved in PDF. I have used the AutoDWG conversion tool before. It's very awesome. You can try their free online conversion service first. You don't need to download and install, you don't need to register, you can directly convert the PDF in your hand into dwg or dxf, which is very convenient. If the conversion result is not ideal, then download and install the offline version of the software, which is more powerful on raster pdf and can obtain more free conversion opportunities.
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Tags: scanning, cad
---
|
thread-15753
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15753
|
File too big to open in Tinkercad. How can I shrink it?
|
2021-02-27T02:17:54.937
|
# Question
Title: File too big to open in Tinkercad. How can I shrink it?
I need to shrink an STL file below the 25 MB threshold, so I can open it in TinkerCad. I don't care about quality, I just need it shrunk.
How can I do this?
# Answer
If you have 3D software like Blender you can import your model and use the decimate modifier to lower the number of vertices and then re-export.
Here is a link to how you can do this: Simplify Geometry with the Decimate Modifier in Blender 2.9.
> 4 votes
# Answer
You can use Microsoft 3D Builder if you're under windows. It's a surprisingly powerful application that has basic but useful features. From there you can either resize the model to make it smaller or simplify it by lowering the triangle count.
Don't be fooled by the notion of it being a stock app, it's honestly the app I use the most when editing STLs.
Here's an example of an STL after being simplified alongside the original model:
> 3 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, stl, tinkercad
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|
thread-21448
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21448
|
Cylinders have an inconsistent diameter
|
2023-09-17T05:55:30.393
|
# Question
Title: Cylinders have an inconsistent diameter
I'm using the new Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro printer. I have the issue with both Cura and PrusaSlicer alike (I'm a Cura user).
The issue is simple, instead of printing a perfect circle, the final print will have a diameter range of around 0.3 mm. For example, if I print a 15 mm diameter cylinder, the longest diameter will be 15 mm but the shortest will be 14.7 mm.
I measured these with my caliper and I simply turned the cylinder around in the calipers; the cylinder will push up against the calipers as it reaches the thickest part of the cylinder and then come down as it goes to the thinner part.
It's not visible to the eye; it looks like a very nice and perfectly round cylinder. But I can feel it with the calipers. The height is dead on 25 mm as designed.
However, I don't get this result from the holes inside that same print. The holes are perfect circles and measure the same diameter roughly no matter what angle I measure them (at least I believe so, measuring the holes can be a bit tougher).
Calipers are accurate and go to two decimal places for mm.
I've tried:
* Tightening up the belts (**a lot** \- caused the deviation to go from 14.7-15 mm to 14.53-14.8 mm, still roughly a 0.2-0.3 mm difference)
* Bed leveling
* Vase Mode
* Arc Welder (even though it technically shouldn't do anything)
* Axes calibration
---
I remeasured and found that the thickest part of every cylinder is not directly on the Y-axis, instead, it's diagonal. The bottom right and top left of the cylinder is the thickest portion while every other angle is roughly the same.
I found the same was true for the cube I made. Measuring from the bottom right to the top left resulted in 26 mm, but the bottom left to top right resulted in 25.67 mm.
Calibrated the the Y-axis (the only one that was off), issue persists. Again, this 0.3 mm deviation exists in the cubes printed as well, and always diagonally. Bottom Right to Top Left is always about 0.3 mm larger than Bottom Left to Top Right. Looked at an old calibration cube I made with my Ender 3V2 previously and the same measurements were only off by about 0.03 mm.
This is very strange, I think I may simply return this printer for a replacement.. I have no idea where to begin investigating this issue.
---
I took some measurements. I found that the right and left sides of the printer (which are separate pieces of aluminum) were roughly 0.2-0.3mm in difference from their distance to the aluminum center piece.
Now, without taking the entire printer apart, I can't say for certain that this measurement even matters, its possible that things aren't attached the way they seem from the outside.
However, the measurement perfectly aligns with the error margin on the prints. It also correlates to the X/Y axis misalignment, as the measurement indicates the ~~bed~~ X-Axis is slightly tiled up on the right side by 0.2-0.3 mm. Had it indicated it was tilted up on the left side, the print errors wouldn't have made sense as the diameter would have increased/decreased on the wrong diagonals.
---
They agreed to a replacement after I sent pictures of the inconsistent diameter and measurements on the printer itself. I will update on if the issue is gone on the new printer once I have it.
# Answer
It's all but confirmed that the printer was defective. I got a new printer and loaded up the sample G-code it comes with, but the bed's belt snapped 10 minutes into the print (it was only finger-tight). This makes two Neptune 4 Pro printers in a row I've received with defects.
I can only imagine that their quality control is terrible or I have terrible luck. They're also not replying to my emails for the next week due to a week-long holiday. This is an entire month wasted on defective printers.
After some shenanigans, I got a new belt on it. The belt didn't snap as I thought, instead, the metal that was crimped on it failed to hold the belt and it slipped out. This was when I noticed that the Z-axis movement was very noisy. To my surprise, I find that the lead screws were entirely unlubricated.
I printed new cylinders/cubes. ~~The measurements are inconclusive, which probably means the machine is fine.~~ On a 15 mm cylinder I found nearly a 0.2 mm variance, diagonally. This time, the bottom left to the top right (opposite of the last printer). A 30 mm cylinder showed a definite 0.4 mm variance on the same diagonal.
I tried readjusting the X-axis, but nothing changed. I pulled out a cylinder that my old Ender 3v2 printed (25 mm diameter), the variance was \<0.1 mm, a perfect circle (ignoring the Z-seam).
This printer has not been worth the time spent on it, let alone the hassle. What a shame. The printer is fast and has beautiful quality prints otherwise. But it's worthless if they can't properly align the axes at the factory.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Take a builder/carpenter/machinist square to your machine frame and double check the bed rail (y axis) is perpendicular to the gantry (x axis). The only way I can think of for this sort of distortion is if they aren't actually perpendicular and your prints are skewed diagonally.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: dimensional-accuracy, elegoo-neptune-4-pro
---
|
thread-21478
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21478
|
First layer disaster: auto-leveling the bed. Need guidance
|
2023-09-28T13:05:07.923
|
# Question
Title: First layer disaster: auto-leveling the bed. Need guidance
I have been printing on and off for years. Generally, I have had no issues until recently. Upon thinking back I don't think I used the Z-offset at any point and only manually leveled my Ender 3 S1 Pro.
I'm not sure if it's material or me, or both.
I have to learn this. I bought a new, expensive printer which is ABL only. No knobs, only Z baby-stepping in software. The card reader in my S1 broke so I bought a new board and discovered I needed to do this process again. Since I purchased a Sonic Pad, I changed over to Klipper and printed TPU for 2 weeks fine.
I bought a spool of Overture PLA, it's been a disaster. Before trying to dial this in last night the spool had been drying at 45 °C for 12 hours. Doesn't seem to print any differently.
Instead of the config steps, after manually leveling and getting the mesh, I made a one-layer print of concentric squares with a solid 1" box in the center. I'm baby stepping trying to find the sweet spot and think I do. I begin printing my model, 5 copies, layer 1: 1 - doesn't stick; 2 - sticks; 3 - sticks; 4 - sticks. I stop and clean the bed with IPA. Copy 1 - sticks; 2 + 3 - doesn't stick. Stop printing, manually level, and find no resistance with paper. Re-level manually only, print, skirt doesn't lay down right.
Tried the Creality "BuildTak" bed first, and worse.
* Printer: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro - Sonic Pad (Klipper)
* Nozzle: 0.5 mm Hardened Steel @ 215 °C
* Bed: 60 °C PEI and "BuildTak"
* Layer Height/Width: 0.3 mm 0.5 mm
* Filament: Overture PLA Highlight Yellow
* Speed: 25 mm/s
What's the process? 1) Manual 2) Probe 3) Mesh? Does the order of 2 and 3 matter?
Mesh and manual are easy enough. I won't be at my printer until 7 pm Central be eager to read any advice during the day. I have Googled this also; obviously, I missed something.
# Answer
I'm not claiming this is the definitive answer but I made a successful print with these changes.
There were several things I did that may have helped but I don't think solved the problem. I eliminated the elephant's foot compensation. I brought up the flow ratio to 1.01. Even though I had indicated no cooling on the first layer, I unchecked the box that indicated fan **Always on**.
The real solution I believe, increasing the nozzle temperature to 230 °C and bed temperature to 70 °C for the first layer and afterward dialing it back to 210 °C and 60 °C respectively.
I've had rolls of PLA for a long time. Perhaps the formulation has changed over time but I didn't have to go through such steps before, nor print so hot on layer one.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, adhesion, automatic-bed-leveling
---
|
thread-21463
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21463
|
Ender 3 S1 Pro error "extrude below min temp"
|
2023-09-22T19:48:38.203
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 S1 Pro error "extrude below min temp"
When I start my print it goes to home the z-axis and then I get the error "extrude below min temp" error (I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro)
# Answer
> 0 votes
Please excuse this answer if it is too simplistic or pedantic. I don't know how much experience you have, and getting started can be very confusing.
The error message is because, for some reason, the hot end is not being measured as hot enough to soften the plastic enough for the extruder to push it through the nozzle. Why can this be?
If your printer has a nozzle temperature display, check that it is in the right ballpark, 180 °C or higher. My printer shows both the commanded and measured temperatures. I am unfamiliar with your printer. If the commanded temperature is 0 °C, the G-code may be wrong, ie., it may not have a temperature setting command, or the sensor could be broken. If the commanded temperature is not displayed, or the actual temperature displays as roughly ambient temperature, the temperature command could be missing, or there could be a problem with the heating system. If the actual temperature displays as significantly (more than 10 °C) different from ambient, I would look to the sensor for the problem.
Moving to the nozzle, check to see if it is hot when the error is displayed. At full temperature, you should be able to melt a piece of filament by pressing it against the nozzle.
I could explore the failure tree further, but if you check these things the answer may be clear. If not, please add your observations to this question.
---
Tags: creality, ender3
---
|
thread-21484
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21484
|
Support on tiny leg
|
2023-10-03T18:43:39.830
|
# Question
Title: Support on tiny leg
When slicing with Cura, a "flying" support was added. Why would it happen and how to fix it?
Top-side view:
Bottom-side view:
Bottom view:
As expected, the support failed.
Note, the images are flow maps. Support is colored red. I used lines pattern for support. Both support and inner walls are printer on 60 mm/s, so they are both red. The green you see under the support is a support base. But, for some reason it's disconnected from the support.
# Answer
> 2 votes
In one-off cases like this, the best solution is adding a manual support.
1. Select the part. Select 'support blocker' from the right menu, then click somewhere on the part - a semi-transparent cube will be added.
2. Translate, Scale and Rotate the cube to the shape of the support: connecting the build plate with the critical point. Make it embed the problem point with a good margin - Cura will isolate it from the actual print body automatically, so don't worry about it merging with it.
3. Change its type to 'Print as Support' using the 'Per Model Settings'
That way you can support anything Cura fails to support automatically.
Additionally, I found using Tree Supports works vastly better than standard supports in great most cases - not just with 'organic' models - they work quite well with 'technical' models where you need to support a large flat area, and tend to succeed in cases where normal supports fail miserably.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, support-structures
---
|
thread-19011
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19011
|
MKS-SBASE V1.3 Marlin Stepper Motor Current
|
2022-02-24T19:30:14.903
|
# Question
Title: MKS-SBASE V1.3 Marlin Stepper Motor Current
I have an MKS-SBASE V1.3 with integrated stepper motor drivers, but they don't have a physical way to change the current. I know there is a way to update the DRV8825 stepper current through Marlin, but I can't find it. Is it located in the advance configuration tab, or is a G-code I need to use?
# Answer
From "WHAT IS WRONG WITH MKS ?":
> They use DRV8825 stepper drivers which are much more prone to loosing steps than Allegro or Trinamic drivers
DRV8825 driver current cannot be changed from firmware like e.g. Marlin, Trinamic drivers can, but they are not installed on the board.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The MKS SBASE 1.3 has a potentiometer to set the current of each of the stepper drivers.
Don't see a physical potentiometer? That's correct! There are electronic potentiometers on the board. If you're using stock firmware: I can't tell you how to change it, but it must be possible. I'm using klipper and it has a section that by default sets the current to 1.0 A.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: stepper, motor, mks
---
|
thread-20707
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20707
|
How to combine an .svg and a basic object in Openscad
|
2023-03-19T14:19:07.537
|
# Question
Title: How to combine an .svg and a basic object in Openscad
As stated in the question I am trying to combine a drawing I have in .svg format with a simple cylinder in order to make a printable medal. I have tried the following code :
```
union() {
translate([25,25,0]) cylinder(h=1.5,r=25,center=false);
translate([7,7,1.4]) linear_extrude (height=1.5) scale([0.2,0.2,1]) { import("/Users/tijg/Documents/projecten_actueel/3dwerk/eik/eikenblad-boom.svg");}
}
```
In the preview all looks well, but after rendering the drawing on top disappears. As I remove the cylinder, the drawing of the .svg renders perfectly and is printable. Any help much appreciated.
# Answer
you need to emboss the image either by raising the image or by increasing the height of the image. once it protrudes it will not disappear.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: openscad
---
|
thread-21491
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21491
|
How do I move the head?
|
2023-10-07T23:36:55.807
|
# Question
Title: How do I move the head?
I have an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro (love it), and I'm trying to set up a Raspberry Pi with a camera to take a photo every time a layer is complete (to build a time-lapse).
This means I'll have to edit the G-code to move the print head to the X-axis maximum to press a button (shutter release).
I'm using the web interface and would like to know how to get the X-axis position using G-code commands.
I've found Klipper documentation: G-Codes and have tried to run a few of the commands.
`M114` gives the following line:
`14:58:56 X:141.000 Y:98.000 Z:11.090 E:0.000`
However, when I try to send the print head to that location from somewhere else, I get errors.
```
$ G0 X:141.000 Y:98.000 Z:11.090 E:0.000
!! Unable to parse move 'G0 X:141.000 Y:98.000 Z:11.090 E:0.000'
$ G0 [X:141.000] [Y:98.000] [Z:11.090] [E:0.000]
// Unknown command:"G0 ["
$ G0 [141.000] [98.000] [11.090] [0.000]
// Unknown command:"G0 [141.000] [98.000] [11.090] [0.000]"
$ G0 141.000 98.000 11.090 E:0.000
// Unknown command:"G0 141.000 98.000 11.090"
$ G0 X:141.000 Y:98.000 Z:11.090 E:0.000
```
All of these tried with `G1` as well as `G0`
Based on the error messages, it looks like the first line above is the way to go; But I'm not sure where to go from here.
# Answer
It seems that the commands are invalid due to improper syntax. The Klipper Documentation site does seem to be a bit confusing. The main list of G-codes can be found on the RepRap wiki.
The site provides the proper usage and examples:
> **Usage**
>
> ```
> G0 Xnnn Ynnn Znnn Ennn Fnnn Snnn
> G1 Xnnn Ynnn Znnn Ennn Fnnn Snnn
>
> ```
>
> ...
>
> **Examples**
>
> ```
> G0 X12 ; move to 12mm on the X axis
> G0 F1500 ; Set the feedrate to 1500mm/min
> G1 X90.6 Y13.8 E22.4 ; Move to 90.6mm on the X axis and 13.8mm on the Y axis while extruding 22.4mm of material
>
> ```
> 1 votes
# Answer
The provided link shows the correct syntax, the ":" character is not in the Klipper G-code specification and remember the "\[" and "\]" characters imply that the parameter is optional and "\<" and "\>" imply: "insert a value here".
From the documentation:
> Move (`G0` or `G1`): `G1 [X<pos>] [Y<pos>] [Z<pos>] [E<pos>] [F<speed>]`
A valid command would be:
`G0 X141.000 Y98.000 Z11.090 E0.000`<sup>1)</sup>
---
<sup>1)</sup> *Note that this is an example based on the provided G-code in the question, the use of the `E0.000` is not recommended, this can retract the filament all the way from the extruder based on the last position of `E`. If you want a move to a position, retract first (using a relative positioning of `E`), then move (using an absolute positioning of `X, Y, Z`), take a picture, move back and re-retract the same value (using a relative positioning of `E`).*
> 0 votes
---
Tags: g-code, klipper, elegoo-neptune-4-pro
---
|
thread-20630
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20630
|
How do I run wires for an LED through my print?
|
2023-02-27T02:43:15.227
|
# Question
Title: How do I run wires for an LED through my print?
I am just getting into printing and would like some direction on my current project. I am building a display cube, and I would like to have an LED light on both the left and right sides. The battery pack/power would come up from the bottom.
I am using freeCad as my design tool. My initial thought would be to create a pocket where the LEDs will be at and then create holes leading back to the bottom. That seems like the logical solution.
Another option I had was to create channels on the inside of the square and run my cables through those. However, this will make the cables visible, and also show the channels.
My final option would be to hollow out the insides with a little bit left for the surfaces.
With all of these options, I can see pros and cons, so that is why I am looking for a little guidance.
# Answer
The best option probably, is to embed everything in the cube seamlessly. It's one of techniques only possible with 3D printing.
Prepare the cube normally with pockets where the battery, wires and LEDs are to go, with all the "special" geometry hidden within, nothing poking out through the skin (albeit you will need some way to toggle it or charge the battery... wireless charge, capacitative switch?). Make sure the project has a point (or - less desirably - a couple of them) where at certain height all of the "foreign objects" are below the current height, but all the channels and sockets that hold them are still exposed/accessible from above (as viewed from the print orientation).
Then in your slicer use the "Pause at height" option. It's different in different slicers - I'll provide a tutorial for Cura.
* Load the STL. Slice and preview. Use the slider on the right to find the layer number which will still expose everything below (with possibly 1-2 layers of margin above, as sometimes the resulting pause point is off by that much). In the example, the layer# is 140. The sockets for LEDs are already closed on top, so the LEDs won't stick above the print level, so this is about the correct height.
* Select Extensions \> Post-processing \> Modify G-Code.
* Add script \> Pause at Height. Change "Pause at" to "Layer number" and enter the layer at which you want the print to stop, so you could load up all the electronics (or first part of it, if you want multiple pauses). Usually this is all that's needed, but if you see options you want to tweak, now's the time. Press Close.
* Slice again (this time to produce Gcode with the pause command), and start the print normally.
If everything went well, the printer will stop printing at the specified layer and move the print head out of the way. You can now pack all the electronics in (pay attention not to move the table), possibly hot-glue the wires so that nothing sticks above the print surface so the print head won't snag on it, then either use the printer's screen's dialog (if you used an SD card), or Octoprint's "Resume" button if using Octoprint, or whichever way of resuming the paused print your system provides. The print will resume and your parts will be seamlessly embedded within.
The process is slightly different with different slicers and printers, but if you google "pause at layer" and "resume paused print" with your slicer and printer, you'll find tutorials for sure.
Also note: normal PLA at thickness of 2-3 layers is transparent enough bright LEDs will shine with clear diffuse light through, so your LEDs don't need to poke out of the sides. Embed them shallowly enough and your cube will glow there just fine.
> 1 votes
# Answer
If the display cube consists of transparent panels, create a 3D printed frame along the edges of the panels. Incorporate through holes in the frame elements to run the wires through. It should also be possible to build in a way to mount the LEDs to the frame elements.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Are you going to be printing using filament or resin?
I'm having trouble visualizing what you are intending to do, but if you are using a filament printer then it may be easier for you simply print the model out exactly as is, with no accommodation for the LED or batteries, and then simply cut into it with a sharp knife. When dealing with an item that is purely ornamental (Doe not require mechanical strength) The interior of a filament print is essentially a honeycomb that exists to support the exterior while it is printing. You can cut away most of it without harming the print, and then fill the remaining space with modeling clay to regain some of the lost strength.
Simply hollow out a space for the battery and then drill into it for the LED.
If you are using resin, you can hollow out the object using your slicer, and then use the hole punch tool that most slicers have to create a hole for your LED.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, freecad
---
|
thread-5204
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5204
|
Turn off heated bed in Repetier?
|
2018-01-02T02:16:44.747
|
# Question
Title: Turn off heated bed in Repetier?
I have a printrbot simple metal with the heated bed upgrade. I think theirs a problem with my board, so long story short, I'm just trying to print without actually heating up the bed. The problem I am faced with is when I try to print from Repetier, it's still trying to connect the heated bed. I can't find any settings for shutting this off anywhere. How can I bypass this so I can still print? Thanks!
# Answer
A workaround would be to post-process your gcode files manually removing all `M140` and `M190` instructions (the one setting heated bed temperatures).
You can do that manually by opening your GCODE file in a text editor and searching for `M140` and `M190`, but I recently had the same problem with Slic3r (Prusa edition) and I wrote a one-liner that does that automatically for me.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I set Slicer-\>Configuration-\>Filament-\>Bed Temperature to 0 and this also removes the G-Code line mentioned in mac's Answer.
I think this bug is particularly annoying because the printer (at least my Velleman Vertex) is stuck in the "Heating Bed"-State and I had to do a power cycle.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, software, repetier
---
|
thread-21499
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21499
|
Heater on bed stopped working on Fusion3 EDGE printer
|
2023-10-10T17:58:08.657
|
# Question
Title: Heater on bed stopped working on Fusion3 EDGE printer
I just received a Fusion3 EDGE printer and tried printing ABS with a 0.4 mm extruder at 260 °C and bed at 115 °C (the temperatures set by the demo print). The bed started heading on the first print, then stopped heating after a few layers and hasn't heated since after repeated tries. Does anyone know if the fault state is causing this or if a failed heater is causing the fault state?
I've been going through the document Fusion3 EGDE-Troubleshooting: Heater Faults.
Reset the heater fault and get the heater is heating too slowly.
I'm waiting for tech support's response before moving this to an answer, but this is the result so far.
I measured the voltages on the SRDD100 relay. When the bed heater was turned on 24 V was across the input and the output passed 24 V to the heater (relay on). When the bed heater changed to the fault condition, the input had 0 V and the output did not pass the 24 V to the heater (relay off). Turning the power off on the 3D printer, unplugging the bed heater, and measuring the resistance of the bed heater showed an open circuit.
# Answer
I measured the voltages on the SRDD100 relay. When the bed heater was turned on 24 V was across the input and the output passed 24 V to the heater (relay on). When the bed heater changed to the fault condition, the input had 0 V and the output did not pass the 24 V to the heater (relay off). Turning the power off on the 3D printer, unplugging the bed heater, and measuring the resistance of the bed heater showed an open circuit. **The OEM also concluded that the bed heating element failed and is shipping a replacement**.
OEM comment:
> every machine that is built runs through at least 12 hours of printing high temperature materials before it is allowed to ship. Having it basically show up not functioning is. . really weird.
My response:
> This looks like it was on the tail of infant mortality for the heater exceeding the burnin time or a burnin escape. It only lasted a few minutes into a print with bed at 110C. Otherwise, it would be a defect caused in the process between burnin and arriving here.
The packaging showed no sign of mishandling and nothing on the unit showed signs of mishandling. There was no sign of damage to the heater. **The lack of response to this question here supports that this is a rare incident.**
The OEM has also requested the return of the failing heater element for analysis (shipping container included with replacement part).
Received new bed from OEM, installed bed, and printed successfully. First print after installing bed:
Below is normally a difficult print to not have strings between the stringers, but the Fusion3 Edge printed with no strings on the first attempt.
---
*When looking at SRDD100 application notes, I wondered why the 3D printer designer switched the positive supply voltage instead of the ground as in the application notes. But, thinking about this, the heater is attached to the grounded aluminum bed. If the designer switched the ground instead of the positive supply, a short to the bed could cause thermal runaway. Thus, the designer had safety in mind.*
> 1 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed
---
|
thread-21515
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21515
|
How can I get PLA to stick to my printer bed?
|
2023-10-15T15:41:49.893
|
# Question
Title: How can I get PLA to stick to my printer bed?
I'm printing a model, sliced in Cura, on a Monoprice Mini Delta v2.
The model is long, about the width of the print bed. When I print it, the extruder drags the filament (which should stay in place) into the wrong position.
To summarize, my white PLA won't stick to the print bed (which is heated to 40 °C). Is the bed temp too low? Is the nozzle too high (200 °C)?
If someone could tell me how to get the PLA to stick- preferably a long-term option like print or bed temp - it would be greatly appreciated.
# Answer
I would go with 60 degrees on the bed and check the bed levelling. You shouldn't be having a problem with PLA if the levelling is fine unless your filament has gone bad.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: pla, monoprice-mini-delta
---
|
thread-21507
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21507
|
Ender 3 printer won't auto home
|
2023-10-12T21:37:19.710
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 printer won't auto home
After building my Ender 3 printer, installing the CR touch auto bed leveling kit, and the Ender-3 Marlin2.0.6 CR-Touch or BLTouch firmware for it. I turned it on and tried to auto home but it just made a little noise and then displayed "Homing failed printer halted please restart". So I tested the end stops with a multimeter and they all seemed fine. I did some research and found the CR touch firmware could be the problem and installed some newer firmware (Ender-3Marlin2.0.6HW4.2.2GD) and nothing has changed. What should I do?
# Answer
> 1 votes
The reason I was having this problem was because of a file I had extracted that was on the sd card. I noticed an orange dot at the end of the extracted file, so I thought it was probably flashing and interfering with the firmware. After I deleted the extracted file and flashed the firmware it ran perfectly.
---
Tags: firmware, creality, ender3
---
|
thread-21513
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21513
|
How to design for parts that slot into each other
|
2023-10-14T23:05:15.097
|
# Question
Title: How to design for parts that slot into each other
I want a cable management tray for my height-adjustable desk.
I came up with the following design: CableManagementLarge
It appears to fit nicely in CAD but when printed the parts don't fit nicely. You can use force but it distorts the part. I have already snapped 2 of them.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. It would have been easier to buy a tray. However, that would have robbed me of the chance to learn more about designing for 3D printing.
Here is an image to show how it distorts the hanger part:
As you can see in the image, the hanger part is bent. I have checked the calibration of the printer, it seems fine on both the X and Y-axis. It's 0.2 mm out on the Z-axis.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You can try reducing the size of the part that goes in by 0.5mm and see how it goes. Also I agree with above comment you might want to tune in your printer to to get better prints.
# Answer
> 1 votes
## Clearance
For parts that slot into one another, you need to include clearance. This clearance depends on your printer configuration and can be between 0.1 mm and 0.5 mm.
## Calibrate your printer!
You might want to calibrate your printer and profile to learn what distance of clearance you need for your specific printer.
---
Tags: 3d-models
---
|
thread-21514
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21514
|
What is a good filament for a frame for holding high amp copper busbar?
|
2023-10-15T05:19:20.890
|
# Question
Title: What is a good filament for a frame for holding high amp copper busbar?
I need a frame to hold a copper busbar in place. The busbar is rated up to 200 amps and can be wrapped in an insulator, so the frame will sit around the insulator of the busbar, but I don't know how hot it gets.
I would like to 3D print a frame to hold the busbar in place, what is the most suitable filament for this application?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I would use ABS, but you shouldn't rely on the filament. This is a job for insulation to take care of. You don't expect the holder to do any more than hold the component in electrical applications.
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Tags: filament, electronics, filament-choice, filament-quality
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thread-21494
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21494
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Prusa i3 MK2 thermistor connector reference
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2023-10-09T06:02:58.893
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# Question
Title: Prusa i3 MK2 thermistor connector reference
I think my heat bed thermistor is broken (infinite resistance measured) on my Prusa MK2, so I bought a new one, and I'd like to know which connector I shall use. Where can I find the references of this connector, please ?
Regards,
# Answer
Those are JST SYP 2 pins female.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The thermistor is just a resistor. Polarity doesn't matter. Connect it wherever the old one was connected. Typically it connects to a pair of male pins on a RAMPS board, so a 2-pin female connector with standard 2.54 mm (0.1") pin spacing is called for, unless your printer uses a different board.
For a visual reference, look at the extruder RTD connection on your printer.
> 1 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3
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