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https://www.wikihow.com/Listen-to-Music-While-Showering	How to Listen to Music While Showering	Listening to music through your phone or a portable speaker is a great way to make your showers more enjoyable. If your phone isn't water-resistant, get a waterproof speaker or a waterproof case for your phone so you can take it into the shower with you. Alternatively, place your phone or a regular speaker outside of your shower and set it loud enough so you can hear it over the running water. Make sure it's a few feet away from your shower just in case any water splashes out. If your phone is too quiet, try placing it in a glass to amplify its volume.	Purchase waterproof Bluetooth speakers. You can find these at most general retailers, technology stores, and similar stores. Once you do, you can keep your phone somewhere dry in the bathroom and connect it to the speaker in the shower. Start a playlist on your phone to play music in the shower on the speaker. In some cases, you may be able to find speakers equipped with suction cups to make the speaker more stable in the shower. Some speakers may have waterproof straps you can use to hang the speaker from the shower curtain rod. Read the description of your waterproof speakers carefully. Some may be fully splash resistant, but unable to be immersed in water. Upgrade to a waterproof phone. Some phones have cases that are naturally resistant to water. Some may even be safe to take in shallow water, though check your phone's detailed manual description before attempting this. In some cases, certain “waterproof” phones may only be spill or splash resistant. Some phones are actually marketed for their usefulness as music players in the shower. Some of these you might consider include the Galaxy S7, iPhone 7 Plus, the Caterpillar Cat S60, and more. Invest in a waterproof shower radio. These are many times a cheaper alternative than waterproof Bluetooth speakers or a waterproof phone. Even though you won't be able to use playlists saved to your mobile device, you'll still be able to enjoy the tunes broadcast by your favorite radio station while showering. Some of these shower radios also have the ability to pair to your phone with Bluetooth or an AUX cord connection to turn the radio into a speaker. Some bathrooms may get poor reception due to the interference of walls, piping, and more. Because of this, you'll likely want to prioritize radios that are highly rated for their reception. Cover all your bases with an all-in-one waterproof MP3 player. If you rise earlier than others in your household, you might not be able to rock the tunes on high volumes through a speaker. In this case, you might make use of a waterproof MP3 player and waterproof headphones. This way, you can listen to your favorite music at whatever volume you desire while enjoying your shower. Three models you may want to consider if a waterproof MP3 sounds like it might suit your needs are: Sony's Walkman NWZ-W273S, the Speedo AquaBeat 2, and the KitSound Triathlon. Use waterproof cases for your technology. Many waterproof cases claim to be 100% waterproof. While these very well may limit the majority of moisture from coming into contact with your phone, it's not uncommon for trace amounts of water to enter the case. For this reason, you should use a waterproof case as added protection for your technology, but try to avoid exposing these to moisture. Read the label description of potential “waterproof” cases you're considering buying. In some cases, these may only be water resistant and not able to be dunked in water. Verify your speakers are loud enough, if necessary. In some cases, you might not have time to set up speakers in your bathroom. In other cases, setting up speakers might not be worth the effort. You don't need speakers to listen to music while showering. However, if you do plan on using speakers, select durable, small- to mid-sized speakers. Large speakers will create more volume and will be the easiest for you to hear over the sound of the shower running. However, these tend to be more delicate, and will likely be more sensitive to steam. Speakers that can be oriented to broadcast music directly at the shower should be prioritized. These kinds of speaker will be easier to hear over the running water. Create a makeshift amplifier, if desired. If you're playing music straight from your phone without external speakers, it may be difficult to hear the music. It's a good thing you can create an emergency amplifier by inserting the speaker end of your phone into a cup or glass. You may want to try several different glasses, as the shape of the glass will influence the application effect. Generally, you can expect wide-mouthed glasses or bowls to produce richer, fuller, deeper sound than small-mouthed glasses. Position your equipment for the best sound experience. The more you focus the sound of your phone and (potentially) your speakers on the shower, the easier it'll be for you to hear the music over the sound of the water. If you made a cup-amplifier, you may be able to hear the music best from the shower if you angle the mouth of the cup to face the shower. Water can sometimes spray through gaps in the curtain, especially after you enter the shower. Take extra care to keep your equipment from getting unnecessarily wet. Generally, moisture is bad for electronics. The acoustics of your bathroom may also influence the best placement of your audio equipment. Generally, sound waves spread through a room, bouncing off hard surfaces and being absorbed by soft ones. The more concentrated these waves, the easier to hear they are. Angle speakers and cup-amplifiers to emit sound at your shower area. Set a playlist. When you're in the shower, especially if you don't have the benefit of having a waterproof phone, it may be impossible to skip a bad song. Wet hands can get damaging moisture on your phone, so instead, consider setting a rockin' playlist of your own ahead of time so you aren't tempted to use your phone while wet. If you absolutely must change the song while you're in the shower, try to use the voice activation feature of your phone to prevent getting your phone wet. Speak clearly and distinctly; it may be difficult for the voice recognition software to recognize your voice over the shower. Even your favorite songs can become old after a while. Why not come up with many different shower playlists that capture common feelings you have? For example, you might have a playlist for encouraging yourself, one for focusing on work, one for puzzling out a difficult problem, and so on. Shower and jam to your favorite tunes. Pair your phone to or plug in the AUX cable for your speaker if necessary. Start your playlist on your phone, and if using the cup-amplifier, insert your phone into the cup. Turn volume up fully, then hop in the shower and enjoy music as you get clean. Create a makeshift waterproof case with a plastic bag. There may be some cases when you're away from home and in dire need of some tunes while showering. Take a re-sealable plastic baggie, insert your phone into it, and seal the baggie. Then use a durable waterproof tape, like duct tape, to reinforce the seal of the baggie. Even if you lack a suitable waterproof tape, so long as you're careful to keep the sealable part of the baggie closed, your phone should be protected from water. Some plastic baggies will be thin enough for your phone to read your taps and swipes. It may take you some time to find the best plastic baggie for your phone. Run a fan while showering. Moisture can build up in the air and saturate the enclosed atmosphere of your bathroom. When the air becomes saturated, moisture has a tendency to work its way into even well protected cases. You can prevent the buildup of air moisture by turning on a fan before showering and running it for the duration of your shower. If your bathroom doesn't have a fan, you might want to crack a window or leave your door propped slightly open to give moisture an escape point. Keep your technology away from moisture sources. Certain parts of your bathroom may accumulate water more easily than others. In some cases, you may have noticed that some places seem to be wet every time you take a shower. These are spots that should be avoided when setting up and positioning your technology.	Purchase waterproof Bluetooth speakers. Upgrade to a waterproof phone. Invest in a waterproof shower radio. Cover all your bases with an all-in-one waterproof MP3 player. Use waterproof cases for your technology. Verify your speakers are loud enough, if necessary. Create a makeshift amplifier, if desired. Position your equipment for the best sound experience. Set a playlist. Shower and jam to your favorite tunes. Create a makeshift waterproof case with a plastic bag. Run a fan while showering. Keep your technology away from moisture sources.
https://www.wikihow.com/Be-Your-Dog%27s-Best-Friend	How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend	Your dog most likely would love to be your best friend, and you can help build that relationship by being attentive and respectful to your pup. Spend time bonding with your dog for at least 15-30 minutes every day. Pay attention to your dog's body language to learn how they are feeling and know when they're uncomfortable. Make your dog feel secure by taking care of all of its needs, including giving it fresh food and water every day, providing it with a safe, clean environment, and providing it with medical care.	Learn your dog's moods and feelings. This requires being observant and learning what you can about your own dog's temperament. Use their body body language to learn how your dog is feeling and if they are comfortable. If you just adopted or purchased this dog, give it some time to adjust to its surroundings before overwhelming it with attention. Dogs will try to tell you things that they need and want. They may bring you their favorite toy or a tennis ball if they want to play, or whine by the door if they need to go outside. Paying attention to the cues that your dog gives you will help you to address their needs and wants. Some dogs may express themselves with different noises and expressions. Others, however, may be quieter and harder to read. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language. A dog's body language can tell you how they are feeling about a situation, their mood, or if they are receptive to other dogs and people in their space. Dogs that have relaxed body positions, are enthusiastically wagging their tail or thumping it on the floor, have a happy expression on their face like a smile, and are in a play bow (bowing the front of their body towards the floor with their tail wagging) are happy and receptive to play! Dogs that are scared or anxious may try to avoid you by backing away from you, turning their head and body away from you, and hiding behind another person or object. Anxious dogs also may have their tail between their legs, and have wide bulging eyes (this is called a half moon eye). A dog that is aggressive may growl, guard their favorite possessions, snap at you, snarl, lunge off their leash, and bite. Give your dog space. All animals need down time and to be alone so they can rest. Just like humans, dogs can become overwhelmed, tired, and cranky. If they're tired, they may try to tell you that they'd like to be alone by avoiding you and going to a space they enjoy sleeping in. This doesn't mean that your dog doesn't like you, they just need some time to themselves and to reset. Give your dog space when they are tired, seem agitated, or appear to be afraid. Make sure that the dog has a private, quiet space where it can retreat if it needs to nap or rest. This could be a crate, a bed in a different room, or a separate couch. Once you are able to learn your dog's body language, you need to respond appropriately to what they are communicating to you. Respect your dog. Whether you have had this dog for a few weeks or for many years, you should always treat them with respect and love. If you want your dog to become your best friend, you also have to be their best friend. Friendships are built on mutual respect and care; the way that you treat your dog will become the ways that your dog will treat you. When you treat them with care and attention, they will reciprocate in their own way. Never harm or hit your dog. This is animal abuse and you should not have a dog if you cannot refrain from hurting them. If you have a dog that you find yourself abusing, immediately surrender the dog to a shelter where they can be well taken care of. If you suspect that your dog has been harmed by someone else, you should take them to the veterinarian immediately. Contact law enforcement or your local animal control agency and let them know that your dog has been harmed. If your dog does not trust you, it will take time to develop a relationship. Dogs that have been rescued from abusive situations may take a longer time to warm up to you and to feel safe. Be respectful of the fact that they need more time to feel comfortable, and let the relationship progress at a slower pace. Some dogs may be startled by noises or fast movements. If you have a new dog in your home, try to move more slowly around it until it relaxes and you learn its triggers. Keep your dog safe. Your dog's safety can be threatened by things outside and inside of your home. Keeping your dog safe will help them to live a long and healthy life so that you can spend more time together! Dogs are unable to eat many food items. You should avoid feeding your dog from your table as part of your behavioral training, but be aware that certain foods pose serious health risks to your pet. Some of the more common foods that dogs can never eat include chocolate, avocado, raisins and grapes, fruits with pits, garlic, and onions. Always keep your dog on a leash when you take them on a walk. Many cities and states have laws that forbid dogs to be off leash, but it's always a good idea to stay on the leash. Leashing your dog can help keep them away from other dogs that may be aggressive, busy roads and intersections, and the risk that they may run away. Pet proof your home. Like babies and small children, dogs are curious creatures that can get into things they shouldn't. Lock away your cleaning products and any medicines. Buy a trashcan that your dog can't open. Move or put away any cords lying on the ground. Use baby gates or lock doors to keep dogs out of rooms they don't belong in. Feed and give water to your dog. This may seem obvious, but feeding your dog is absolutely essential both to your relationship and the health of your dog. The first week your dog is in your home, try feeding it from your hands. This will encourage the dog to trust you. Let your dog watch you fill their food and water bowls. They will associate you with food and understand that you are providing for them. Feed your dog at specific times during the day rather than leaving food out all day. This is a good way to help your dog build a routine and to further associate you with food and caring for them. There are many different types of dog food. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation if you are unsure of what to choose. Some dogs are pickier than others and prefer certain types of dog food over others. It may take a few tries to find a food that your dog likes. Treats are a great way to motivate your dog to do tricks or to reward them for good behavior. Give treats in moderation to keep your dog at a healthy weight. Take your dog to the veterinarian. A healthy dog is a happy dog! Good preventive medical care helps them live a longer happier life. Make sure your dog is up to date on vaccinations and worming. If your dog does have medical problems, their medical care can become very expensive. Pet medical insurance is one option to help moderate your costs. When you have a strong bond with your dog, your dog will begin to understand that you are concerned about their health and wellbeing when it comes to medical procedures or vet visits. Walk your dog daily. Your dog will need plenty of exercise to keep healthy and spending time together walking is a good way to bond with your pet. Again, they will associate you with going on walks, which many dogs find to be their favorite activity! Purchase a good quality leash. If you have a larger dog that is strong, you may want to consider buying a harness or a head halter to attach to a leash. Take your dog out regularly for good long walks. Train them to behave appropriately on a leash. They should not be pulling you along the road. They should heel and stay close by your side and walk at your pace. Take your dog to the dog park and let them socialize with other dogs and people. Your dog can bond and meet new friends while they enjoy being outside and running free. Always clean up after your dog and carry plastic bags on your walks to dispose of your dog's waste. Try taking your dog to new and exciting places on your walks to keep it engaged. For example, you can go to a new park, garden, trail, or downtown street. Bathe and groom your dog. Depending on the breed of your dog, they may require more frequent or complicated grooming. Generally, try to brush your dog's fur at least once a week to prevent knotted, matted hair. Give them baths. Some dogs love baths, some are not such big fans. Wash them at least once a month, or whenever they are muddy or dirty.. If you use a gentle shampoo, you can bathe your dog up to once a week. Depending on the breed, you may need to take your dog to the groomers so they can give your dog hair cuts that are appropriate for the breed. Trim your dog's nails. Like humans, dogs' nails grow continuously. Unless your dog is very active and wears them down on pavement or concrete, you will need to trim their nails when they become long. There are special dog nail clippers, but regular nail clippers can be used as well. Attend a brief dog training class. If you have never trained a dog before, a dog training class is a helpful way to learn the basics. Obedience classes can also help you and your dog grow closer since you will be working with it one-on-one. Training your dog can help keep them safe, healthy, and sociable. As the owner, you are the leader and guide in your relationship with your dog. They rely on you for their health and well-being so it is important to set boundaries with your dog in regards to undesirable behaviors. Obedience classes help you and your dog to establish good communication when they learn to respect and follow your verbal and physical cues. Keep all learning a fun experience. When you are training your dog, mix it with play! Many dogs, especially working dog breeds, enjoy tasks and are bred to perform jobs. These dogs may benefit from participating in an agility training course, receiving more exercise, and spending more time outdoors. Many dogs are motivated by food, so small treats can be a positive motivator when they correctly do a trick or a specific behavior. Play with your dog. Play encourages a healthy relationship and gives you an opportunity to continue to bond with your dog. Games like fetch or tug of war are great ways to give your dog some exercise and for them to have fun. Try different games to see what your dog enjoys. Some dogs are less interested in playing with you than others. Some may prefer to play independently or with other dogs. This is okay! This is just your dog's personal preference and you should respect that. Keep track of games and toys that your dog likes better than others! If your dog likes fetch, get toys that can be thrown or tossed, like balls and frisbees. If they prefer puzzles, invest in Kong toys or toys where treats can be hidden inside. Pet your dog. Physical contact is a great way to show that you care about your pet. Most dogs love belly rubs, pats on the head, and pets. When you pet your dog, studies have shown that both you and your dog release a hormone called oxytocin, which makes you both feel calm and happy. Snuggling and cuddling with your dog helps to de-stress both of you, while encouraging a strong physical bond. Some dogs like more physical contact than others, and there are times when even the cuddliest dog needs their space. Just like with humans, sometimes dogs want to be close to you and in physical contact, and during other times they don't. Physical contact helps to solidify the emotional and relational bond between you and your dog. It demonstrates that you both love, respect, and care for each other. Grooming also shows your dog that you care about their wellbeing, and it helps to foster a physical bond while keeping your dog healthy and clean. Discipline your dog. Disciplining your dog is essential in maintaining good boundaries in your relationship. There are different ways to discipline your dog, but you should never hit your dog. If a dog has done something that it shouldn't have, like going on your couch or eating off your plate, you can make them sit and sternly say, "No! Bad dog! Don't do that!" If you use a stern voice for disciplining them, they will act submissive because they will know they were bad. What you see as "guilty", a dog sees as sad. Averting the eyes, crouching down low with their head bowed, or giving you that look, shows that they know you are mad at them. While they might know you are mad at them, it is important to give discipline right away, when they are bad. That way, they will know why they are in trouble. If you come home to find that they have ripped the couch to shreds, do not discipline them. You didn't catch them in the act, therefore they have no idea what you are yelling at them for. Destructive behavior is a sign of boredom. Let them spend the day outside in your backyard, or perhaps take them for more frequent walks. If you do not want them in the livingroom, or any particular room, consider dog gates. Don't use threats that your dog won't understand. For instance, "You ripped up the couch, we are not going to the dog park tomorrow!". Dogs will not understand this and have no idea what you are saying. Use discipline that is appropriate for the scenario. The discipline that you would use if your dog barked when it shouldn't have versus tearing up your couch will be very different. Avoid using the dog's crate for discipline. The crate should be a safe space for your dog. Only put the dog in there if it is too hyper or wound up.	Learn your dog's moods and feelings. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language. Give your dog space. Respect your dog. Keep your dog safe. Feed and give water to your dog. Take your dog to the veterinarian. Walk your dog daily. Bathe and groom your dog. Attend a brief dog training class. Keep all learning a fun experience. Play with your dog. Pet your dog. Discipline your dog.
https://www.wikihow.com/Broil-Fish	How to Broil Fish	To broil fish, position the oven rack about 4 inches from the broiler, place a heavy metal baking pan on the rack, and turn the broiler on. Next, rub the dull side of a piece of aluminum foil with olive oil and place your fish on it with the skin side down. Then, season both sides of the fish with salt and pepper and put it in the preheated broiler pan. Finally, broil the fish for 5-7 minutes for every inch of thickness.	Place your oven rack about 4 inches (10 cm) from your broiler. Place a heavy metal baking pan on the rack. You can also use the broiler pan that came with your oven. Turn on the broiler. Some recipes will specify whether you should use the “high” or “low” setting. Fish needs to cook quickly under high heat, so use the “high” setting unless otherwise instructed. Rub the dull side of a piece of aluminum foil with 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon olive oil. To save calories, you may spray the foil with cooking spray instead. You can either use your hand or a pastry brush to rub the oil onto the foil. Place your fish on the piece of foil. If the fish has skin, the skin side should be in contact with the foil and the flesh side should be facing up. Season the fish. Use 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper as a good basic seasoning. You may also add a squirt of fresh lemon juice for additional flavor. Put on a pair of oven mitts, open your oven door and pull out both your rack and the hot pan. You should pull the rack out enough so that you can easily place the fish on the pan but not so much that you remove the rack. Slide the foil and fish on top of the hot pan. You may want to curl up the edges of the foil so that any juices don't pour out onto the cooking pan and burn; this will also save you cleanup time. Close the oven door immediately. Broil the fish. Expect to cook the fish for about 5 to 7 minutes for every inch of thickness. However, check the fish often to prevent burning. Remove the baking pan and the fish from the oven and place the fish (while still on the foil) on either your counter or your range top. Let it sit and rest for about a minute before loosening it from the foil. Remove the fish from the foil using a spatula. You'll need to use the widest spatula that you own to ensure that the fish does not fall apart when you remove it from the pan. If you used fish with the skin on one side, you may find that you can separate the flesh from the skin easily with the spatula at this point. Plate the fish and serve. Finished.	Place your oven rack about 4 inches (10 cm) from your broiler. Place a heavy metal baking pan on the rack. Turn on the broiler. Rub the dull side of a piece of aluminum foil with 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon olive oil. Place your fish on the piece of foil. Season the fish. Put on a pair of oven mitts, open your oven door and pull out both your rack and the hot pan. Slide the foil and fish on top of the hot pan. Close the oven door immediately. Broil the fish. Remove the baking pan and the fish from the oven and place the fish (while still on the foil) on either your counter or your range top. Remove the fish from the foil using a spatula. Plate the fish and serve. Finished.
https://www.wikihow.com/Say-Sorry-in-French	How to Say Sorry in French	To say "sorry" in French, say "Desole" in casual situations, like apologizing to a friend for being late. If your offense was more serious or you're apologizing in a formal setting, say "Je suis desole." You can also say "Je M'excuse," which translates to "I apologize." Alternatively, you can accept blame by adding, "C'est ma faute," which translates as it's my fault.	Say "Je suis désolé" in formal situations. This is the most basic way of saying "I'm sorry" to someone in French, and you should use it in most formal situations. The phrase "Je suis" means "I am," and "désolé" means "sorry" in the form of an adjective. Write "désolé" if you're male and "désolée" if you're female. Regardless of gender, pronounce the entire phrase: zhuh swee day-zoh-lay You should use this phrase when apologizing for something serious, apologizing to strangers, apologizing to elders, or apologizing in a professional or other formal situation. Add "vraiment" for serious matters. If you need to apologize for something very serious, you should say, "Je suis vraiment désolé" (male) or "Je suis vraiment désolée" (female). The term "vraiment" means "truly" or "really." When inserted into the usual apology, you're essentially saying, "I am truly sorry." Pronounce the entire phrase: zhuh swee vray-mohn day-zoh-lay Offer "désolé" in casual situations. When you're in an informal situation, you can drop the "Je suis" portion of the phrase and simply state, "Désolé." Essentially, you're dropping the words "I am" and simply saying "sorry" instead of "I am sorry." As with the formal version of the phrase, you should write "désolé" if you're male and "désolé" if you're female. Regardless of gender, pronounce the apology: day-zoh-lay Use this phrase when issuing a quick apology to friends or other close peers. Ideally, you should only use it when the offense was relatively minor, and should opt for the formal "e suis désolé" after major offenses. Accept blame with "c’est ma faute. " In English, "c'est ma faute" means "it's my fault." You can use this phrase with or without a formal apology. Breaking it down further, "c'est" means "it is," "ma" means "my," and "faute" means "fault." Since "faute" is a feminine word, you should use the feminine version of "my," which is "ma" (rather than using the masculine "mon"). You can say “c'est ma faute” on its own, but you would typically mention this phrase after issuing an apology. In other words, you'd likely say something along the lines of, “ Je suis désolé. C'est ma faute.” To pronounce this phrase, say: seh mah foouht Excuse yourself with "excusez-moi. " Translated into English, "excusez-moi" simply means "excuse me." The verb "excuser" means "to forgive" or "to excuse," and the pronoun "moi" means "me." In essence, you are telling the person you're speaking to, "you forgive me" or "you excuse me." You would typically use this phrase if you're trying to get someone's attention, but you can also use it to apologize to known and unknown people for minor offenses. You should not use this phrase to apologize for a major offense, however. To pronounce this phrase, say: ex-koo-zay mwah Pardon yourself with "pardon. " Saying "pardon" is an abbreviated way of saying "pardon me," and you can use it in an apologetic manner. It's quite informal, though, so you should be careful about when you opt for this translation. "Pardon" comes from the verb "pardonner," which means "to forgive" or "to pardon." You'll most often hear "pardon" when someone apologizes for bumping into another person he or she knows, or when someone is trying to push his or her way through a crowd. Pronounce this phrase as: pahr-dohn Beg pardon with "Je vous demande pardon. " When translated into English, this phrase means, "I beg your pardon." The verb "demande" means "to request" or "to demand." In this construction, "pardon" is the French noun for "forgiveness." Additionally, "je" is a pronoun meaning "I" and "vous" is a pronoun meaning "you" When you string these words together in this manner, the resulting phrase means, "I request/demand your forgiveness." When speaking this phrase aloud, pronounce it: zhuh voo deh-mahn pahr-dohn State your apology with "Je m'excuse. " You can exclaim "Je m'excuse!" as another way of saying "I'm sorry!" The term "je" is a pronoun meaning "I," and "m'excuse" is the first person singular translation of the verb "s'excuser," which means, "to apologize." A more literal translation of this phrase would be, "I apologize." Try pronouncing this phrase: zhuh mex-kooz Ask for forgiveness with "veuillez m'excuser. " Translated into English, this phrase can mean "please excuse me" or "please forgive me." The term "veuillez" is actually the second person imperative form of the verb "voiloir," which means "to wish." While there is no clean translation into English, you would use "veuillez" to make polite or sincere requests, so in this sense, you could also translate it as "please" in English. In this sentence, "m'excuser" is a conjugation of the verb, "excuser," meaning, "to excuse" or "to forgive." When written as "m'excuser," you are saying, "forgive me." Pronounce this entire phrase as: veh-yeer mex-koo-zeh Share your regrets with "regretter. " The verb "regretter" means "to regret," and you can use it when sharing your regrets concerning unfortunate circumstances. If you want to say "I regret," you'll need to say "Je regrette." Pronouce this phrase as: zhuh ruh-greht If you want to say that someone else regrets something, however, you'll need to change the conjugation of "regretter" accordingly. To say "we regret," state "nous regrettons" ( noo ruh-greh-toon ) To say "he regrets, state "il regrette" ( ee ruh-greht ). To say "she regrets," state "elle regrette" ( ehl ruh-greht ). Feel sorry using "plaindre. " If you feel sorry for someone, you could describe that emotion using the verb "plaindre," which means "to feel sorry for" among other translations. The root verb is "plaindre," so you'll need to conjugate the word accordingly based on who feels sorry or who feels pity. For example: If you want to say "I pity," you would have to state, "Je plains" ( zheh plahn ) On the other hand, if you want to say "we pity," you'll need to state, "nous plaignons" ( noo pleh-nohn ) Describe a sorry condition using "pitoyable" or "triste. " Both terms are adjectives used to describe things that are in a "sorry" or poor state of being. Use "pitoyable" to describe conditions and excuses. A literal translation would be "pitable" or "pitiful," and it's pronounced: pi-toi-ahb Use "triste" to describe a sorry story, state, or sight. This adjective can also mean "sad," and you should pronounce it as: tree-stuh	Say "Je suis désolé" in formal situations. Add "vraiment" for serious matters. Offer "désolé" in casual situations. Accept blame with "c’est ma faute. Excuse yourself with "excusez-moi. Pardon yourself with "pardon. Beg pardon with "Je vous demande pardon. State your apology with "Je m'excuse. Ask for forgiveness with "veuillez m'excuser. Share your regrets with "regretter. Feel sorry using "plaindre. Describe a sorry condition using "pitoyable" or "triste.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Eggs-Benedict	How to Make Eggs Benedict	To make eggs Benedict, start by making the Hollandaise sauce, then cover it and keep it warm while you make the rest of the dish. Next, heat the Canadian bacon in a skillet until it starts to brown, then turn off the heat and leave it in the skillet to keep it warm. Lastly, toast the English muffins and poach your eggs. To put it all together, place 1-2 muffin halves on each plate, lay a slice of bacon on top, then add a poached egg. Spoon Hollandaise sauce over the eggs, top with a dusting of paprika, and enjoy!	Melt the butter. Heat the butter in a wide pan, until there are just a couple small pieces of butter left. Remove from heat so it cools while you move on to the next step. If you're feeling extra fancy, clarify the butter by skimming off some or all of the milk solids. Their removal will make the sauce thicker, but less rich. Alternatively, just let these sink to the bottom of the pan, and decide what to do with them when it comes time to pour. Set up a double boiler. If you don't have a double boiler, just fill a pan about a ⅓ full of water and heat until you see a couple thin streams of bubbles. Place a heat-safe metal or glass bowl snugly on top of the pan, without touching the water. This indirect heat reduces the risk of your sauce burning and separating. Whisk egg yolks and lemon juice together. Add four egg yolks and 1 tbsp (15mL) lemon juice to the double boiler. Whisk constantly and vigorously until the mixture becomes frothy and lighter in color, and the whisk leaves trails in the mixture. An experienced chef can achieve this in a minute or two, but 5–10 minutes is common for a first try. Scrape down the sides of the bowl occasionally as well. Any egg left sitting in place might scramble. Watch for signs of separating. If the egg mixture gets too hot, it will curdle or "split" into solids and liquid. If it starts to feel too hot or steams heavily, pick up the bowl with an oven mitt or towel. Whisk vigorously for 30 seconds to cool the eggs down, then return to heat. The first few times you make hollandaise, it can be difficult to identify the right temperature. To play it safe, do this for a few seconds, once a minute. If the mixture starts to curdle, immediately scrape it into another bowl and whisk rapidly with 1 tbsp (15mL) ice water. Add the butter gradually. Pour the butter in a small, steady stream, whisking constantly and vigorously. The sauce should thicken easily at first, then become more difficult to combine. Pour more slowly as this happens, since too much butter can cause the sauce to split. This step can take anywhere from 2–5 minutes. Once you're more experienced, you can add the butter ladle by ladle, or even in two large batches. This risks splitting the sauce, but if you succeed you'll have a faster, airier hollandaise. Adjust the spices and liquids. Stir in salt and cayenne pepper to taste. You may also whisk in a little more lemon juice if you want a tangier flavor. If the sauce is thicker than you prefer, whisk in a little hot water. Keep in a warm place. Until you finish the other ingredients, cover the bowl and place in a warm spot. Cool temperatures may split the sauce. If the sauce gets too thick, whisk in a few drops of warm water before serving. Fry Canadian bacon. Heat the Canadian bacon in a skillet over medium-high heat. Cook for a few minutes until it starts to brown, turning occasionally. Once ready, leave it in the skillet to keep it warm. English back bacon works as well. Toast the English muffins. Cut each English muffin in half and place them on a baking sheet, cut sides up. Butter the cut sides lightly and toast under the broiler until light brown. Bring water to a low simmer. Fill a wide nonstick skillet or shallow pan half full of water. Heat until there are a couple thin streams of bubbles, or until a thermometer reads 160–180ºF (71–82ºC). Optionally, add 1 tsp (5mL) white vinegar to the water. This helps the egg white stay in position instead of separating throughout the water, but this can affect the texture and flavor. Add the eggs. Crack one egg into a small bowl, taking care not to break the yolk. Gently lower the edge of the bowl into the water, letting some water flow into the bowl. Tip the bowl to slide the egg slide into the water. Quickly repeat with remaining eggs. If the water has reached a full simmer, "spin" the water once with a spoon to cool it down before adding the egg. Do not do this once an egg is already in the water. If the pan is small, only cook two or three eggs at a time. Eggs that crowd against each other may merge into once mass. Poach the eggs. Cook for 3½ minutes until the egg white is set but the yolk remains soft. Remove with a slotted spoon, allowing the egg to drain. Put it all together. Place one or two muffin halves on each plate. Lay a slice of bacon on top of each muffin half, followed by a poached egg. Spoon Hollandaise sauce generously over the eggs. Top with a dusting of paprika and an olive slice or two. Garnish the plate with parsley on the side. Make vegetarian Eggs Florentine. Instead of the bacon, sauté spinach until it wilts, then place that on top of the English muffin. You'll need about 4 cups (960mL) raw spinach for this recipe. Serve with asparagus. Steamed asparagus pairs perfectly with hollandaise sauce. Serve it on the side and drizzle the sauce over the entire plate. Sprinkle with finely chopped basil for more summer flavor. Use American bacon and tomatoes. "Eggs Blackstone" uses crisp, fatty American bacon (streaky bacon) instead of Canadian bacon. Pair this with a slice of raw, juicy tomato between the muffin and the bacon. Replace the meat with smoked salmon. The lemon flavor works wonders with seafood. Complement the salmon even more with a finely chopped handful of dill, mixed into the finished hollandaise sauce.	Melt the butter. Set up a double boiler. Whisk egg yolks and lemon juice together. Watch for signs of separating. Add the butter gradually. Adjust the spices and liquids. Keep in a warm place. Fry Canadian bacon. Toast the English muffins. Bring water to a low simmer. Add the eggs. Poach the eggs. Put it all together. Make vegetarian Eggs Florentine. Serve with asparagus. Use American bacon and tomatoes. Replace the meat with smoked salmon.
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Acrylic-Paint-from-Hair	How to Remove Acrylic Paint from Hair	To get acrylic paint out of your hair, wet your hair with warm water and massage it with shampoo. Let the product sit for 10 to 20 minutes, then wash it off. Run a fine-toothed comb through your hair to remove clumps of paint. When you've removed as much paint as you can, wash your hair with warm water to remove lingering acrylic flakes, then saturate your hair with conditioner to restore moisture.	Wet your hair with warm water or take a warm shower. Massage the painted parts of your hair with your fingertips to soften any hardened sections.You could also take a bath to allow your hair to soak in the warm water for several minutes. Apply a liberal amount of shampoo to your hair and massage gently. No special shampoo is required – you can just use your normal product. Let the shampoo sit for about 10-20 minutes before washing off. Run a fine-toothed comb gently through your hair. Try to comb out the sections of paint that have now softened. You may want to clean the comb periodically with your fingers and set aside the bits of paint so that they don't clog the drain. Rinse the hair thoroughly. Once you've removed as much paint as possible, rinse your hair again in warm water. Comb your fingers through your hair to help remove any lingering bits of paint that have flaked off. Use conditioner on your hair. Saturate the hair with conditioner to help restore some of its moisture. Let it sit in your hair for at least three minutes before rinsing so that your hair has a chance to soak up the conditioner's oils. Rub olive oil or baby oil between your palms. Use a generous amount so that you can saturate your hair. If you have long hair, or if there's a lot of paint in your hair, you may need to refill your palms with the oil several times. If you don't have either of these oils, you could use other substances from around the house, like peanut butter or WD-40. Follow the same process of rubbing the product between your palms, but if using WD-40, wear latex or disposable gloves since the product could cause skin irritation, and avoid using it near your scalp. Run your hands through the part of your hair with the paint. Check that the affected part of your hair is coated with oil, and allow it to sit in your hair for several minutes. This will soften the paint and make it easier to flake off. For really stubborn dried paint, you may want to apply the oil to your hair, wrap your head in plastic wrap, and then wait a few hours to give it extra softening time. Use a fine-toothed comb to remove the softened paint. Make sure to use gentle strokes, so as not to pull your hair from your scalp or to break it off at the ends. Try dividing your hair into 1-inch sections and combing them each separately. For bad tangles, start at the bottom of your hair and just comb out the last inch. Then move up and comb the inch above that. Progress this way until you've reached your scalp and can easily glide a comb from root to tip. Shampoo as usual. Lather your hair with your typical shampoo and then rinse to remove the oil. Depending on how much oil was in your hair, you may need to shampoo and rinse a second time. You may condition if you wish, but you don't need to since the oil you used to remove the paint also moisturized your hair.	Wet your hair with warm water or take a warm shower. Apply a liberal amount of shampoo to your hair and massage gently. Run a fine-toothed comb gently through your hair. Rinse the hair thoroughly. Use conditioner on your hair. Rub olive oil or baby oil between your palms. Run your hands through the part of your hair with the paint. Use a fine-toothed comb to remove the softened paint. Shampoo as usual.
https://www.wikihow.com/Maintain-Romance	How to Maintain Romance	The best way to maintain romance in your relationship is to improve your emotional connection by communicating openly and honestly with your partner. Accept your partner for who they are, and show your appreciation for them with physical intimacy and gifts.	Start your day with a physical display of love. As soon as you wake up, kiss your partner on the cheek to give them a reminder of your love. Studies show that starting your day off by warmly greeting and physically touching your partner leads to a better outlook on the rest of the day. Physical contact in the morning will set a positive tone for your day. Wake up just a few minutes before your partner, turn off the alarm clock, and gently kiss their cheek to wake them. If you are apart for some reason and cannot offer physical love, try sending loving text messages for your partner to wake up to. Tease your partner. Walk around the house in just a towel or stroke their back as you walk by them. Do small acts to tease and tantalize your partner. Build their anticipation and desire for your touch. Full body massages are great ways to build the tension and feel intimate and connected. Show affection in public. Touch is the primary language of compassion, and it conveys trust and safety. When you touch your partner in public, you both receive these benefits, plus the added benefit of knowing that others know about your love. Showing your love in public, conveys that you are not ashamed of your partner, and you want the whole world to know you are together. Hold the door for your partner, and as she walks by, place your hand on the small of her back. When you are waiting in line at the bank, face each other and embrace in a hug. Do not be inappropriate in public, as it can be illegal when taken too far. Purchase “The Kama Sutra. " Sex is a critically important aspect of a happy and long-lasting relationship. Find ways to have romantic and meaningful sexual encounters. Purchase books like the “Kama Sutra” to learn new ways to pleasure your partner. Talk to each other about your likes and dislikes in bed. Learn your partner's turn-ons, and do your best to make them happy. Create a “Fantasy Jar. ” Write down all of the erotic fantasies you would like to engage in with your partner, including role play or public affections. Sharing fantasies with your partner reveals a deep and private side to you, which will enhance your connection and intimacy. When your partner shares their fantasy, do not judge them; instead play along. You both have to be fully engaged and committed to each fantasy to increase the pleasure. Communicate often and honestly. Open and honest communication is a cornerstone to a happy and romantic relationship. Telling your partner exactly how you feel, including your likes and dislikes, will increase clarity between you two, and help maintain overall happiness. Spend at least five minutes per day checking in with each other about the status of your relationship. Talk about how certain situations made you feel or how you would like to see some things happen differently. When you communicate with your partner, try to frame things positively. For example, if you did not like that your partner said you would attend their work event without asking, instead of saying “Don't make my decisions for me," say something like, “I love to support you in your job, however I would really appreciate it if we could discuss going to social events before you RSVP.” Leave love notes around the house for your partner to find. Create small acts of kindness that let your partner know you are thinking about them when you are apart. Your partner will appreciate the effort and will feel your love in your absence. Other acts of kindness could include sending love texts while at work, writing “you are beautiful” on the mirror, packing their lunch the night before, or cleaning the house. Be appreciative of your partner. Appreciation adds value to your partner and to your relationship. Express the physical, personal, and professional attributes that you value in your partner to make them feel loved and respected. Focus on the positive qualities, such as their hair, humor, or selflessness. Accept your partner for their mistakes and flaws. Your partner is not perfect and you knew that going into the relationship. Accept that they might not put away dishes, or that they run chronically late. Do not try to change your partner; instead, focus on promoting the good things about them such as their intelligence or ability to light up a room! Become aware of your own flaws and recognize you are not perfect to help you accept your partner's flaws. Be respectful of your partner and their flaws. If they are chronically late, respect that it is their decision to be late, but allow yourself to be on time. Plan a novel and exciting date night. Forget a pleasant evening at a French restaurant you have been to fifteen times. Try going on exciting and fresh dates, such as paintball or white water rafting. Science shows that couples who engage in exciting dates were more satisfied than those engaging in pleasant and routine dates. Go on dates that allow you to participate as a couple such as dancing, kayaking, or building a fort. Pretend each date you go on is your first date. On a first date, you make a significant effort to impress. If you strive to look your best and be on your best behavior each time you go on a date with your partner, you will both feel happier and more satisfied. Go away for one weekend a month. Leave your home for two days a month and visit a place you have never gone with your partner. You can plan the getaway or make it spontaneous. Throw a dart at a map and go to wherever it lands. If money or children make travelling difficult, try spending time in a different part of your house you often neglect. Try to just change your setting as much as possible. By being with your partner in a different environment, you may see them in a different light. Going on trips can also test your relationship by revealing your compatibility, showing how you manage each other when you are together 24/7. Spend time apart. Taking time for yourself in a relationship is a healthy step because it promotes independence and adds mystery into your lives. If you love going to art museums but your partner does not, going on your own can encourage self-love, which will be carried into your relationship. Have a “girl's or boy's night” and hang out with your own group of friends. You can talk about things you wouldn't necessarily discuss with your partner, and you will be reminded of yourself as an individual, instead of yourself in a partnership. Give your partner a gift just because you love them. Everybody loves to get gifts! It doesn't have to be a birthday or Christmas to present your partner with a gift. If you are at the store and see something that reminds of you your partner, purchase it, wrap it up, and give it to them that evening at dinner. Your partner will be surprised by the unforeseen gift and appreciate your kindness and generosity. Give gifts in moderation. Do not buy every item that reminds you of your partner. Purchase gifts that are fiscally responsible. Buying your partner a red Mercedes is not practical and could get you into financial trouble.	Start your day with a physical display of love. Tease your partner. Show affection in public. Purchase “The Kama Sutra. Create a “Fantasy Jar. Communicate often and honestly. Leave love notes around the house for your partner to find. Be appreciative of your partner. Accept your partner for their mistakes and flaws. Plan a novel and exciting date night. Pretend each date you go on is your first date. Go away for one weekend a month. Spend time apart. Give your partner a gift just because you love them.
https://www.wikihow.pet/Teach-a-New-Dog-Good-Manners	How to Teach a New Dog Good Manners	Before attempting to teach your new dog good manners, make sure everyone in the house agrees on ground rules, like no dogs on furniture or no dogs upstairs. Then, if your dog breaks one of your rules, you should tell it "No" and gently place it on the floor. You can also train your dog to go in its crate by putting treats inside and closing it in. If it starts to whine, wait until it stops before letting it out. Additionally, you should socialize your dog by having other people and dogs over to your house. If it behaves aggressively towards another person or dog, guide it away from them to defuse the energy.	Establish the house rules before the dog arrives. Consistency is essential when it comes to teaching a dog house rules. Therefore, it's important that everyone is on board with the rules before your new dog sets paw in the house. Even if you are adopting a dog by yourself, you need to be consistent. You can't decide getting on the bed one night is fine and unacceptable the next. For instance, "No dogs on the furniture," is a house rule that everyone needs to agree on. Otherwise, the dog will get confused. You should also agree on things like feeding times, who's going to walk the dog, and a place for the dog to sleep. Decide what words you'll use for each command. For instance, you don't want one person to use "crate" and another to use "bed" for the same command. Start at the beginning. When you get a new dog from a shelter, you don't know what it knows and what it doesn't. Plus, the rules you want to establish may be different from the last house it lived in, so it's best to just start teaching your rules right away. Don't assume that the dog knows things like toilet training, for instance. Start teaching toilet training the instant the dog gets in the house. Additionally, start establishing the house rules with your dog. If one of your house rules is don't get on the furniture, begin teaching that to your dog. If your dog gets on the furniture, gently place the dog on the floor and tell it "no!" each time you catch it on the furniture. Be patient and remember that your new dog is undergoing a lot of changes and trying to take in and learn a lot of information at once. Know you won't see your dog's personality right away. It takes most dogs a while to adjust to a new family and environment. It can take several weeks (and in some cases, several months), for the dog's true personality to come out. That may mean that you think your new dog doesn't have certain bad habits, only to notice them coming out later. For instance, you may have a higher-energy dog than you realized in the beginning. In that case, it may need more exercise than you originally anticipated. Keep the dog in sight at first. When you're establishing house rules, it's best to keep the dog where you can see it. Try blocking off other rooms with doors or baby gates. If you can't do that, try keeping the dog on a leash for a little while, until you've established a routine. Of course, you need to go out sometimes. Before the dog is crate trained, try putting the dog in a small space, like part of a laundry room. If it's small enough, the dog is not as likely to use the bathroom. Take note of everything that's on the dog's level, including the couch, chair legs, and tables. Make sure to remove any dangers to the dog, including chemicals, plants, and cords that the dog could chew on. Also, the area shouldn't have anything in it you don't want broken, such as expensive furniture or knick knacks. Train the dog to go outside. Take the dog outside every hour to use the bathroom. When you take the dog out, say a cue word or phrase such as “Go potty.” Be sure to praise it enthusiastically right after it relieves itself. It can also help to use a treat to reinforce the behavior. Watch your dog for signs of wanting to go out. If it squats, circles, sniffs around, or barks at the door, take it outside. If it uses the bathroom outside, give it a treat and praise. If you catch your dog using the bathroom in the house, make a loud noise, like clapping or yelling to startle it into stopping. Say, "Outside!" Take the dog outside. If it continues using the bathroom outside, give it a treat. In the beginning, you'll need to watch the dog extremely closely. The more your dog gets the hang of going to the bathroom outside, the less you'll need to watch it. Teach your dog to go to a spot. Start with something moveable, such as a mat with an anti-skid bottom. Using something moveable gives you the option to move it easily around your home or even take it out with you. This trick is important because it can teach your dog to stay in one place when you need it to, such as when you have people coming over to your house. Start by introducing your dog to the mat; just lay the mat down in front of it. If the dog shows interest, use a click and a treat to acknowledge the behavior. A clicker is a dog training tool that provides positive reinforcement of a behavior. You can also use a clicking pen for a similar effect. Next, give a treat and click if the dog gets on the mat, then another if the dog lays down. Lure the dog off the mat by tossing a treat away. When the dog comes back, give it a click and treat. Repeat this reinforcement. You can also wait until the dog lays down before giving a click and treat. Start adding in your chosen word. You could use "mat" or "spot," whatever you want, as long as you're consistent. Lure the dog away by tossing a treat. As the dog comes back on the mat, say the word you've chosen. Work on this behavior. Finally, try distracting the dog. You can use a squeaker toy or move away from the mat while the dog is on it. If the dog stays, reward it. If it moves, start again with resetting the dog on the mat. Eventually, add time before you click and treat. After a while, the word will be enough. Train your dog to a crate. Start with a crate that's big enough so that your dog can stand, sit, and lay down comfortably. Your dog's crate is its home, so it needs to be comfortable inside. A crate is a place where your dog can go to be calm. Place the crate in a busy part of your home, so that your dog still feels like it's part of the family. Put a blanket or cushion in the bottom. Open the door to see if the dog explores on its own. If it doesn't, call it over. Put some treats inside to encourage the dog to crawl in. Once your dog enters the crate a few times, try feeding the dog in the crate. If your dog won't go all the way in, put the food as far as your dog will go, then eventually move it all the way in during subsequent meals. After a few times, try closing the crate just while your dog eats. If the dog whines, wait until the dog stops to let it out. Next, try crating your dog when it's not mealtime. Show your dog a treat to get it to go inside. You can use a word to associate with the crate, such as "crate" or "bed." When it goes inside, give it the reward, and also praise it. Close the door, but stay quietly nearby. Let the dog out in 10 minutes or so. Leave the room for a few minutes. Come back and wait another minute or two, then let the dog out. Increase how long you leave the dog in the crate over time. Eventually, you can leave them in the crate for short periods while you're gone. You can also try crating your dog overnight, but you may want to start with the crate in your bedroom. Let the dog approach you at first. If you try to run up on the dog and pet it, the dog may take that as a threat. Instead, give the dog a chance to explore, letting it come up to you in its own time. It will come say hello once it gets the lay of the land a bit. Get the dog used to affection. Once your dog starts coming to you on its own, it's time to work on touch. Try petting the dog. Make sure the dog can see you coming, and don't move over the head from the front. You can pet the dog's back, for instance, but make sure your dog can see your hand ahead of time. To make your dog more comfortable, try crouching down or sitting on the floor. Move affection to less tolerated spots. Your dog has places on its body that it doesn't like touched, such as its paws or ears. However, you'll need to be able to touch those places to do things like trim its nails. Being able to touch these areas will also help when the dog goes to the vet, so it's important to teach your dog how to tolerate being touched in those areas. While it's easiest to do in puppies, you can also work with older dogs. Start when the dog is already relaxed near you, and pick a word that you will associate with this activity, such as "cuddle" or "touch." Pet the areas the dog likes, such as the head. Use the word you've chosen, and then pet the area. After you've done it, give the dog a treat. Each time you try this tactic, move closer to an area that your dog has a problem with, such as its paw. If the dog tenses, move back to an area it's comfortable with. Keeping practicing this tactic in small doses each day to slowly get your dog used to the idea. Once you can touch the dog's paws, work on holding them or touching different areas. You can switch out treats for praises and good pets. Introduce your dog. Introducing your dog to new people may take some patience. When you're in your home, you can have someone come over. Block off an area, so your dog has to be in the same room. Then just have a normal conversation with your friend. The person shouldn't pay any attention to the dog at first. Let the dog investigate. If the dog does, have the person talk calmly to the dog. The person can pet the dog if the dog seems interested, as long as your friend stays gentle and follows the same rules you did when starting out with the dog. You can also give your friend some treats to give to the dog. In public, it's also a good idea to only let your dog approach other people. Don't force interactions. If you're dog is especially nervous, you can use treats to get them used to the idea of strangers. For instance, when you're on a walk, try giving your dog treats when you see people approaching, keeping the people at a safe distance (one that doesn't make your dog nervous). As your dog gets used to the idea, you can let people get closer, still offering treats to the dog. Socialize your dog. Socializing your dog just means letting it get used to other dogs and people. You can have people over to your house, or you can take your dog to a dog park or another dog-friendly area. Just remember, it's important that you don't force your dog to do anything, as that can backfire. Let your dog interact with other people and dogs at its own pace. Always watch for warning signs of biting or aggression. If your dog is leaning towards aggression, the dog will try to make itself look bigger with ears up, ruffed-up fur, and the tail up. An aggressive dog may bark, growl, or lunge. A dog that's anxious will try to make itself look smaller by crouching down, putting its tail between its legs, or licking its paws. Both of these postures (and any combination of the two) could indicate your dog is getting upset. Try not to force your dog to do anything when it's exhibiting these behaviors. Keep other dogs and people away if it's exhibiting these behaviors. Work on leash manners. When walking on a leash, the dog should stay by your side. To work on this behavior, use part of the dog's daily food. Start with a few bits just to get things going. Next, feed the dog parts of the food whenever the dog stays next to you on the walk. If the dog pulls ahead, stop moving. When the dog stops and looks, praise the dog, then give it a piece of kibble. Teach gentle mouthing. Some dogs can bite too hard when playing with humans without even realizing it. However, you can train your dog to be gentle. Start by playing with your dog, letting the dog play mouth on your hands. If the dog bites too hard, give a high-pitched yell or yelp. Let your hand go limp. That signals to the dog that its broken the rules of play. After a few minutes, resume playing again. If your dog bites hard again, repeat the process. Only do it three times in 15 minutes. After that, stop playing.	Establish the house rules before the dog arrives. Start at the beginning. Know you won't see your dog's personality right away. Keep the dog in sight at first. Train the dog to go outside. Teach your dog to go to a spot. Train your dog to a crate. Let the dog approach you at first. Get the dog used to affection. Move affection to less tolerated spots. Introduce your dog. Socialize your dog. Work on leash manners. Teach gentle mouthing.
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Lemon-Juice-to-Lessen-Acne-and-Heal-Acne-Scars	How to Use Lemon Juice to Lessen Acne and Heal Acne Scars	Using lemon juice to lessen acne and heal the scars is an inexpensive, natural way to care for your skin. First, wash your face to remove oil, dirt, and sweat. Then, soak a Q-tip in lemon juice until it's saturated. Gently dab the lemon juice on any acne or scarring, targeting the affected areas. Cover your face in plastic wrap and let the lemon juice sit for 30 minutes if you have sensitive skin, or overnight if your skin isn't sensitive. When you're ready, wash your face to rinse away any excess lemon juice. Be careful using lemon juice on your skin because it can damage it. Avoid covering your face in lemon juice, as it's very acidic and can disrupt your skin's natural pH. Make sure you also avoid open cuts or scratches on your face since lemon juice can sting.	Wash or exfoliate your face to remove oil, dirt, and sweat. A lot of people choose to apply lemon juice overnight, incorporating it into their nightly face-washing routine. If you don't want to leave the lemon juice on overnight, try applying it right after you wash your face in the morning. Make sure your face is completely dry and moisturized before proceeding. Take a Q-tip or cotton swab and saturate it in a wedge of fresh lemon. Leave the Q-tip in the lemon wedge for a couple seconds for good measure. Use the Q-tip to dab at only acne and acne scars. You should feel a bit of tingling on your skin, but it shouldn't hurt. Re-saturate the Q-tip in the lemon wedge as necessary. Only target your problem areas. Cover your lemon with plastic wrap and wait for a period of 30 minutes to overnight before washing off. How long you choose to leave the lemon juice on your skin probably depends on two things — whether you're targeting scars or acne, and how sensitive your skin is: Scars or acne? If you're trying to treat scars only, you have a little bit more leeway, because you're using the lemon juice to lighten skin, not heal acne. In this case, you can afford to leave it on for several hours to overnight. If you're treating acne, try leaving it on for less time. Sensitive skin or not? People with sensitive skin have a harder time leaving lemon juice on for longer periods. If your skin is very sensitive, reddens easily, or generally doesn't behave, stick with a couple hours at first before experimenting with longer durations. Wash your face to remove any excess lemon juice. Apply the lemon juice every 1 - 3 days for a period of several weeks for best results. If lemon juice doesn't work, try seeing a dermatologist or consult other sources on treating acne fast and naturally. Don't use a whole lemon wedge directly on your face or cover your entire face with lemon juice. Lemon juice is incredibly acidic, leeching out natural oils and disrupting your skin's natural pH. Not only this, but people with sensitive skin will have a much worse time dealing with too much lemon juice. Remember, a little goes a long way. Just because a little is good doesn't mean a lot is better! Don't use lemon juice on open lesions. If your acne is bad and you've got open sores or lesions, lemon juice probably isn't what you want. While it may fight the acne, it probably hurts the surrounding skin, leaving it worse off. You can try using lemon juice on active acne that isn't opened or hasn't been popped. Discontinue if your skin develops redness, irritation, or breaks out. Don't spend long periods in the sun after using the lemon juice. Lemon juice will make your skin particularly susceptible to sun damage. This is why many people choose to use lemon juice at night instead of the morning, and then wash the lemon juice off when they wake up. If you do choose to use lemon juice on your skin during the day, take care to protect your skin from sunlight: Wear sunscreen, don a hat, etc. Be careful about using lemon juice with lots of other products. If you want to try lemon juice on your skin to heal acne and acne scars, be careful about using other skin-care products in combination with lemon juice. It might be helpful to use lemon juice on your skin on those days when you're not using benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, etc. for your skin-care routine. Make a mask out of lemon juice, honey, and olive oil. This simple mask combines the potency of lemon juice with the hydrating influence of honey and olive oil. Leave it on for 10 - 30 minutes, depending on how sensitive your skin is, and then wash away with warm water and a splash of cool water to help tighten your pores. Finish off with your favorite moisturizer. Here's the recipe you might consider using: 1 tablespoon (15 ml) lemon juice 1 tablespoon (15 ml) honey 1 tablespoon (15 ml) olive oil Try diluting lemon juice with water for more use with more sensitive skin. If you've got sensitive skin but still want to take advantage of the potency of lemon juice, you don't have to forgo it altogether. Try mixing 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of lemon juice with 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of water for a less concentrated solution. Then dip the Q-tip in the diluted solution and use as instructed. If you really have sensitive skin and want a cooling touch when you apply the lemon juice with a Q-tip, try soaking the Q-tip in the diluted lemon juice and then placing it in the freezer for 10 - 20 minutes or until it freezes. Then, when you apply the Q-tip to your skin, it will be cool to the touch! Make a scrub with lemon and sugar or sea salt. Sugar and sea salt are great natural abrasives that, when combined with lemon juice, help fight acne and let your skin glow. Mix enough lemon juice and either sugar or sea salt to make a paste. Then apply the paste to your face and neck, exfoliating the skin in gentle circles. Wait 8 - 10 minutes and then wash off with warm water, finishing with a splash of cold water to close the pores.	Wash or exfoliate your face to remove oil, dirt, and sweat. Take a Q-tip or cotton swab and saturate it in a wedge of fresh lemon. Use the Q-tip to dab at only acne and acne scars. Cover your lemon with plastic wrap and wait for a period of 30 minutes to overnight before washing off. Wash your face to remove any excess lemon juice. Don't use a whole lemon wedge directly on your face or cover your entire face with lemon juice. Don't use lemon juice on open lesions. Don't spend long periods in the sun after using the lemon juice. Be careful about using lemon juice with lots of other products. Make a mask out of lemon juice, honey, and olive oil. Try diluting lemon juice with water for more use with more sensitive skin. Make a scrub with lemon and sugar or sea salt.
https://www.wikihow.com/Grill-Flank-Steak	How to Grill Flank Steak	To grill flank steak, start by applying any seasonings, dry rubs, or marinade that you want to flavor the steak before grilling. Then, heat the grill, and blot the meat with a clean paper towel to remove excess moisture. Place the steak on the grill, and let it cook on each side for 3-4 minutes to sear the meat. Lower the heat and cook the meat for 3 minutes on each side, or until the meat reaches your desired level of done-ness.	Score your steak to a depth of 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm). Regardless of the seasonings you choose to use for your flank steak, begin by scoring it, especially if you have a thick piece of meat. Scoring allows both heat and seasonings to penetrate deeper into the meat. To score your flank steak, place the flank steak on a cutting board, then use the tip of a sharp knife to make several shallow cuts into the surface of both sides of the steak in a diamond pattern. Try to make each cut about ⁄ 4 inch (0.6 cm) deep. If you can, cut against the grain of the meat. The general rule with flank steak is to always cut against the grain to reduce the meat's toughness. Choose a marinade or dry rub for your steak. If cooked correctly, flank steak can taste great without any seasoning at all. However, proper seasonings give this dish a burst of zesty flavor that can make it absolutely irresistible. When it comes to seasoning your flank steak, generally, your 2 options will be to use a marinade or a dry rub. Both options can result in great flank steak, but choose one or the other rather than both. Marinating your steak means letting soak in a mix of liquid ingredients so that it absorbs lots of flavor. A dry rub is exactly what it sounds like — a mix of dry ingredients that you rub onto the outside of the steak. Whether you're using a marinade or a dry rub, the basic process for preparing each is the same. Simply combine the ingredients and mix thoroughly until the ingredients are combined. Soak your steak in the marinade for 4-24 hours. If you've chosen to add flavor to your steak with a marinade, begin by pouring the marinade into a large resealable plastic bag, then add the flank steak. Squeeze most of the air out of the bag, then seal it securely shut. Knead the bag to be sure the steak is completely coated in marinade. Leave the marinating steak in its bag in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or overnight. The longer you allow your meat to marinate, the stronger it will taste. For a flavorful marinade, combine ⁄ 3 cup (79 mL) of olive oil, 2 cloves of minced garlic, 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of red wine vinegar, ⁄ 3 cup (79 mL) of soy sauce, ⁄ 4 cup (59 mL) of honey, and 1/2 tsp (1.165 g) of black pepper. Alternatively, for a simple marinade, mix together the juice of 1 lemon, 3 tablespoons (44 mL) of olive oil, ⁄ 4 cup (59 mL) of red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of Worcestershire sauce, ⁄ 4 cup (59 mL) of honey, and a dash of hot sauce or chili paste. To make your own marinade, start with an oil base (like olive oil or vegetable oil) and add your preferred seasonings, including an acidic liquid (such as lemon or lime juice or vinegar) to cut the oil. If you don't have any resealable plastic bags handy, you can soak your meat in a bowl covered with plastic wrap, a Tupperware container, or any other plastic container with a seal. Apply your dry rub if you aren't using a marinade. On the other hand, if you're more interested in the tasty exterior crust that a dry rub provides, skip the marinade and apply your dry rub instead. Pour your dry rub into a large bowl and drop your flank steak in. Use your hands to toss your meat in the dry rub until it is completely covered. Be generous with your dry rub — you want every surface of your flank steak to receive a thorough coating. For a delicious rub, combine 1 tsp (4 g) of ground cumin, 1 tbsp (5.9 g) of salt, 2 tsp (3.4 g) of ground coriander, 1 tsp (2.3 g) of paprika, 1 tsp (2.3 g) of black pepper, 1 tsp (3.3 g) of garlic powder, and 1/2 tsp (0.85 g) of cayenne pepper. To make a dry rub, simply combine dry or powdered ingredients that you like. A good mix of sweet, salty, savory, and spicy flavors is always a good bet. Salt, pepper, brown sugar, paprika, garlic powder, and red pepper flakes would make a good combination, for instance. Let the meat sit until it reaches room temperature, or, if you're not grilling immediately, place it on a platter in the refrigerator. Fire up your grill. Whether you're using a gas or charcoal grill, you'll want it nice and hot by the time you plan to start cooking. For gas grills: Light one burner and set it to "high." Allow the grill to sit for several minutes (with the lid closed) so it can heat up. If possible, leave a second burner off so that there will be space to transfer the meat to for slow-cooking after the initial sear. For charcoal grills: Pour the charcoal into the bottom of the grill until the entire bottom surface is covered. If possible, push all of the charcoal to one side so that one half of the grill has no charcoal under it. This portion of the grill will be used for slow cooking after the initial sear. Light the charcoal and allow to burn freely until the flames die down and the charcoal turns mostly grey. Pat your meat down with a paper towel to remove excess moisture. When meat cooks on a grill, the characteristic black and brown "sear" that creates a crispy, delicious exterior can't begin to form until the moisture on the outer layer of the meat has evaporated. Since it takes a great deal of energy to evaporate water, grilling meat that's soaking wet is not only an inefficient use of the grill's heat, but also a bad idea for those looking to cook a crispy browned steak. Discard any excess marinade. If you used a dry rub, you may not need to perform this step, as the powdered ingredients will likely have soaked up much of the moisture already, and patting with a paper towel can cause the rub to come unstuck from the meat. Oil the grates then add your steak to the grill. When your grill is nice and hot, carefully use a grill brush to paint the metal bars with extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil above the burner or charcoal. Then, transfer your flank steak to the grill directly onto the spot you just applied oil to. You should hear a noticeable sizzling sound as soon as the meat touches the grill surface. If you don't have a grill brush handy, you can try bunching up a paper towel and dipping it in your oil, then using this to paint the grill. Be careful when attempting this method, as it requires you to get your hand very close to the hot grill surface. Sear your meat on high heat for about 4 minutes on each side. Once you've placed your meat on the grill, let it cook undisturbed for about 3 or 4 minutes, then flip it over with a pair of tongs. If your grill was hot enough, your steak should have a good sear, meaning it's well-browned with crispy dark brown or blackened portions. If it is not well-seared, immediately flip it back over and allow it to continue cooking. Otherwise, cook the other side for 3-4 minutes before flipping again. Cooking the flank steak over high heat initially helps "sear" the meat, creating a crisp outer layer that tastes great and gives your meat a mouth-watering texture. Contrary to popular belief, searing the meat doesn't actually "seal in the moisture". The steak's internal juices can flow out of the meat just as easily after it's seared as they can before. The primary reason for searing is simply for taste and texture — most people like a crispy, caramelized exterior on their meat. Cook the steak over low heat for 3 minutes per side. Transfer your meat to a cooler area of the grill with your tongs. On a gas grill, this means moving the meat over a burner that's set to "off", while, on a charcoal grill, this means moving the meat over the side of the grill that contains no charcoal. While high heat cooking is great for searing the outside, it's difficult to cook the meat all the way through over high heat without burning it. For this, low, steady heat is best, as it gives the inside of the meat a chance to catch up with the outside without burning the latter. Keep the grill lid closed as you cook the meat over low heat to keep the heat of the grill from escaping. Remove the meat when it reaches 130 to 160 °F (54 to 71 °C). Test the internal temperature with a meat thermometer. Stick the pointed end of the thermometer into the thickest part of the meat. Ensure that the tip is not touching the grill surface, then wait for a temperature reading. Generally, a reading of 130 °F (54 °C)) means your meat is cooked to a delicious medium-rare. Different readings can give different levels of done-ness, but you will want to take care not to remove any meat with a temperature of less than 120 °F (49 °C) or so, as undercooked meat can be unsafe to eat. Below are approximate temperatures for different levels of doneness: 120 °F (49 °C): Rare 130 °F (54 °C): Medium rare 140 °F (60 °C): Medium 150 °F (66 °C): Medium well 160 °F (71 °C): Well done Slice into the meat to check the doneness if you don't have a thermometer. As a general rule, the pinker the inside of your flank steak is, the less it has been cooked. Slice a thick section of the meat open to examine the inside. If the inside of your meat has a tougher texture than the outside, has a bright pink color, and/or has juices that don't run clear, your meat still needs to cook. If, on the other hand, the outside edges of the meat are brownish-grey while the inside retains a light pink color and the meat's juices run clear, you're ready to eat! For well-done flank steak, cook until the meat is just barely pink or greyish-brown all the way through. Note that because flank steak is naturally somewhat tough and cooking a piece of meat to well-done can cause it to become even tougher, this isn't usually done. Use clean plates and silverware for serving. After you remove the meat from the grill, don't allow it to touch any cutlery or plates that you used to handle it when it was raw. Either use entirely new serving utensils or wash the old ones thoroughly with soap and water before using them again. This prevents a condition called cross-contamination in which bacteria from the uncooked meat transfer to the cooked meat via unclean kitchenware. These bacteria can cause you to become seriously ill if ingested. Let the meat "rest" under aluminum foil for 10-15 minutes. When you remove the meat from the grill to a platter, cutting board, or another serving surface, don't immediately cut into it. Instead, allow the meat to sit for 10-15 minutes. Cutting into the meat immediately causes the meat's internal juices to spill out onto your plate or platter, leading to a less juicy, flavorful cut of meat. On the other hand, allowing the meat to "rest" for a short time gives the moisture a chance to be reabsorbed by the meat's muscle fibers, making the meat ultimately more tender and moist. Since flank steak is somewhat tough by its very nature, it's extra important to give it time to rest so that the meat is as tender as possible when you eventually bite into it. To keep your meat warm while it rests, take a piece of aluminum foil and fold it over the meat like a tent. The foil helps retain the meat's internal heat, ensuring your first bite is still pleasantly hot even after the meat has rested. Cut the meat against the grain. After it has rested, place the grilled flank steak on a cutting board. Examine the flank steak to determine the direction of its muscle fibers — there should be long, thin lines running in one direction on the surface of the steak. Use a sharp knife to cut the steak into thin diagonal slices against the grain of the muscle fibers. In other words, cut the meat at a perpendicular angle to the lines on the surface of the meat. Doing this helps make the meat as tender as possible. Much of the reason that flank steak is so naturally tough stems from the fact that its muscle fibers are fairly taught and strong. Cutting the meat against the grain severs the muscle fibers, releasing their hold on the meat and giving a more tender texture. Season your steak with salt and pepper and enjoy it. Congratulations! Your flavorful flank steak should be ready to eat. At this point, you may want to season the meat with salt and pepper or garnish with any extra ingredients of your choosing, though your meat should be mouthwatering as-is. Enjoy! Your flank steak should serve roughly 3 people per 1 pound (0.45 kg).	Score your steak to a depth of 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm). Choose a marinade or dry rub for your steak. Soak your steak in the marinade for 4-24 hours. Apply your dry rub if you aren't using a marinade. Fire up your grill. Pat your meat down with a paper towel to remove excess moisture. Oil the grates then add your steak to the grill. Sear your meat on high heat for about 4 minutes on each side. Cook the steak over low heat for 3 minutes per side. Remove the meat when it reaches 130 to 160 °F (54 to 71 °C). Slice into the meat to check the doneness if you don't have a thermometer. Use clean plates and silverware for serving. Let the meat "rest" under aluminum foil for 10-15 minutes. Cut the meat against the grain. Season your steak with salt and pepper and enjoy it.
https://www.wikihow.com/Save-Seeds	How to Save Seeds	To save seeds, start by harvesting them in the late summer, when the flowers start to fade and the seeds look plump and mature. If the seeds are small, cut the plant off with scissors and shake the seeds into a container to collect them. Additionally, rinse off any wet seeds, like those from a cucumber or tomato, after removing them from the plant. Then, spread the seeds on a paper plate for a few days so they are completely dried out. Finally, transfer the seeds into small envelopes or containers and keep them in a cool, dry place.	Know the different reasons to collect seeds. There are many different reasons to collect and save seeds from saving on the cost to having backups if your favorite plants die. Knowing the advantages of seed collecting will help you decide if you want to start your own seed bank. The cost of seeds has increased, while the number of seeds in pre-packaged envelopes has decreased. Collecting and storing seeds from your own garden ensures that you always have backups if any of your favorite plants die. Collecting and storing your own seeds allows you to control their quality. Many pre-packaged seeds aren't harvested at the most optimal time and are also not necessarily stored in the proper way. Know when to harvest seeds. One of the most difficult parts of collecting seeds is knowing when to harvest them. You'll get better at identifying which seeds are ready for collecting with practice, but having a few basic facts at your fingertips will help guide you through the process. Seeds need the living plant to give them nourishment while they swell into full size in the seed coat. Collect seeds from plants before frost or it rains. Seeds may absorb moisture, swell and crack, which damages the ability to properly germinate. Depending on what seeds you're collecting, the growing and seed harvesting season begins in March and ends in fall. Late summer is the peak season. Check plants regularly for fading flowers and forming seeds. If plant heads are turning brown, this is also a good time to collect your seeds. You can collect seeds while they're still green, but let them continue to ripen in the pod or seed head. Harvest seeds when the seeds are a good size and then let them finish maturing in a bag or on some newspaper in a cool place. Don't necessarily pick seed heads as soon as petals fade. For plants like sunflowers, for example, wait until the visible seeds have plumped up, a sign that they're mature. Collect only healthy seeds. If you want to make sure that the seeds you harvest will yield the best plants, make sure that they are healthy and ripe. This will ensure that they not only bloom beautifully, but also that you can store them for a longer period of time. Only save garden seeds from healthy plants that sprout during good growing seasons. Seeds that have been exposed to significant swings in the weather are likely not going to be healthy because the extreme changes in temperature can crack the seed's hull. Seeds are healthy if they plump up on the plant, which is also a sign that they're mature. Get your seed collecting kit ready. If you plan to collect seeds throughout the growing season, it's a good idea to keep a seed collecting kit ready so that you can nip plants as soon as you notice that the seeds have matured. You can put together a kit with a few simple items from your home. A good seed collecting kit will have a small pair of scissors or pocketknife to nip the plants; paper envelopes, paper bags, or small plastic bags in which to put the plant or seeds; and a pen or marker to label the seeds as you gather them. You can also use small tins and prescription bottles to save seeds. Bamboo skewers will help you remove and collect sticky seeds. Find seeds in plants. Plants come in innumerable forms and identifying where their seeds are can often be difficult, especially for beginning collectors. Learning a few basic facts about plant shapes can help you more easily identify where the seeds are. The largest family of flowering plants are called Compositae (Asteraceae) and include flowers such as sunflowers, black-eyed Susans, daisies, and zinnias. Many of these flowers have a green, yellow, brown or black "eye" in the center which produce both the flowers and the seeds. The seeds will develop in that "eye" forming a seed head. Oftentimes the "eye" looks like a button and sometimes it can look a bit like a cone like in purple coneflowers and Rudbeckias. Some Compositae flowers, like those of marigolds, have tight bunches of petals, with no “eye,” but the seeds develop right in the center. When sowing these seeds the easiest method is to break apart the cone or button and sow the seeds directly in the ground. Plants in the mint family, such as basil, grow tiny flowers along a stem. These tiny flowers produce very small seeds that are best harvesting by snipping the entire stalk. The seeds of vegetables and fruits, including tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers are inside the flesh of the plant. Strawberries are an example of a fruit that have seeds on the surface. Snip the mature seeds or plants. Every day or couple of days, check to see if plants or seeds have matured and are ready to harvest. If they are, either remove the seeds or snip the flowers for smaller plants so that you can prepare them for storage. Use the scissors, knife or bamboo sticks from your collecting kit to harvest the ripe seeds. If you're dealing with plants that have tiny seed-producing flowers such as basil, snip the entire stalk to let the seeds fall naturally into an envelope or container. Shake seeds into the envelopes or bags from your collecting kit. You can also cut off stalks of plants and hang them upside down, which will helps release the seeds. This will help you keep plants separate before you dry and place them in final storage containers. Make sure to not put too many plant stems or seed heads into your envelope or container so that they have room to dry properly. Make sure to keep each different kind of plant or seed separate so that your collection stays organized. Prepare your seeds for saving and storage. It's important to properly prepare your seeds for storage after you've harvested them. This will ensure not only that your seeds don't mold but also that you can save them for longer periods of time. Just as when you collect seeds, it's important keep each different seed separate as you dry them for storage. It's very important to have good air circulation when drying seeds so that you can store them. Spreading out the seeds on sheets of paper or paper plates for a few days is the best way to dry them for storage. days. Don't dry seeds in or on plastic because it can promote the growth of mold or fungus. Pour out the small seeds that develop inside of a pod. For plants from the Compositae and mint families, it's best to remove as much of the stems and leaves as possible and then place them upside down in large paper bags and envelopes so that their pods and seeds dry out. Shaking the bag so that the seeds don't clump together ensures that they will dry out evenly. Wash and dry “wet” vegetable seeds. There are many plants, such as tomato and cucumber, that have their seeds embedded within a moist flesh. Before you can dry these for storage, you'll need to remove and wash them. Remove the seeds from vegetables such as cucumber and tomato with a tool or your fingers. Wash them to remove any plant flesh and then dry them on paper. Transfer seeds and label seed packets. As each of the types of seeds you harvested dries, transfer them to small envelopes or containers for storage. Make sure to label each packet with both the type of plant and date of seed harvest so that you can easily find seeds for planting in subsequent growing seasons. Once your seeds have dried, transfer them to small envelopes, for example coin envelopes, or containers such as a clean Altoids tin. This will ensure that they stay dry and last as long as possible. Make sure to transfer one type of plant at a time in order to not mix seeds from different plants. Label each of the envelopes or contains with a pen or marker so that you can easily find seeds for swapping with friends or using in your own garden. Consider creating a “seed bank” in a jar. Once you've transferred the seeds to envelopes or containers, you can create a seed bank in a jar or another container. This will help you keep your seeds orderly and in one place so that you can use them whenever you like. Desiccants such as silica gel can help maintain as little moisture as possible in your seed bank. Store seeds in a cool, dry place. In order to use your seeds in subsequent growing seasons, you need to store them in a cool and dry place, such as a kitchen pantry. This will help extend their shelf life and ensures that when you finally plant them, they yield the best plants. All seeds have a limited shelf-life that ranges from a few months to a few years. Seeds from annual, perennial and biannual plants, as well as herbs and vegetables are excellent for storage. Less optimal are seeds from fruiting trees, shrubs, houseplants and tropical plants. You can extend the life of your seeds by keeping them in a cool and dry place. You may also want to check your seeds regularly to make sure they haven't molded or germinated in their packages.	Know the different reasons to collect seeds. Know when to harvest seeds. Collect only healthy seeds. Get your seed collecting kit ready. Find seeds in plants. Snip the mature seeds or plants. Prepare your seeds for saving and storage. Pour out the small seeds that develop inside of a pod. Wash and dry “wet” vegetable seeds. Transfer seeds and label seed packets. Consider creating a “seed bank” in a jar. Store seeds in a cool, dry place.
https://www.wikihow.com/Integrate	How to Integrate	To integrate, you'll typically be working with Riemann integrals, which is the summing up of rectangles. In order to sum up the area of rectangles, send the number of rectangles to infinity. As you increase the number of rectangles, the area of all the rectangles better approximates the area under the curve. The limit is what you'll define as the integral of the function. This limit has to exist in order for the integral to have any meaning.	Use integration to find areas, central points, and volumes. You can use integration to find many useful parts of a graph that you've made. However, it's usually the easiest to start by finding the area under the curve of a function on a graph. Integration is most often used in conjunction with the quadratic equation. Memorize the notation for integration. An integral ∫ a b f ( x ) d x {\displaystyle \int _{a}^{b}f(x)\mathrm {d} x} consists of four parts: The ∫ {\displaystyle \int } is the symbol for integration. It is actually an elongated S. The function f ( x ) {\displaystyle f(x)} is called the integrand when it is inside the integral. The differential d x {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} x} intuitively is saying what variable you are integrating with respect to. Because (Riemann) integration is just a sum of infinitesimally thin rectangles with a height of f ( x ) , {\displaystyle f(x),} we see that d x {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} x} refers to the width of those rectangles. The letters a {\displaystyle a} and b {\displaystyle b} are the boundaries. An integral does not need to have boundaries. When this is the case, we say that we are dealing with an indefinite integral. If it does, then we are dealing with a definite integral. Throughout this article, we will go over the process of finding antiderivatives of a function. An antiderivative is a function whose derivative is the original function we started with. Understand the definition of an integral. When we talk about integrals, we usually refer to Riemann integrals; in other words, summing up rectangles. Given a function f ( x ) , {\displaystyle f(x),} a rectangle width of Δ x , {\displaystyle \Delta x,} and an interval [ a , b ] , {\displaystyle [a,b],} the area of the first rectangle is given by f ( x 1 ) Δ x 1 , {\displaystyle f(x_{1})\Delta x_{1},} because it is just the base times the height (the value of the function). Similarly, the area of the second rectangle is f ( x 2 ) Δ x 2. {\displaystyle f(x_{2})\Delta x_{2}.} Generalizing, we say the area of the ith rectangle is f ( x i ) Δ x i. {\displaystyle f(x_{i})\Delta x_{i}.} You can represent this by saying: ∑ i = 1 n f ( x i ) Δ x i {\displaystyle \sum _{i=1}^{n}f(x_{i})\Delta x_{i}} If this is the first time you have seen a summation symbol, it may look scary—but it's not complicated at all. All this is saying is that we are summing up the area of n {\displaystyle n} rectangles. (The variable i {\displaystyle i} is known as a dummy index.) However, as you can guess, the area of all the rectangles is bound to be slightly different from the true area. We solve this by sending the number of rectangles to infinity. As we increase the number of rectangles, the area of all the rectangles better approximates the area under the curve. The limit as n → ∞ {\displaystyle n\to \infty } is what we define as the integral of the function f ( x ) {\displaystyle f(x)} from a {\displaystyle a} to b. {\displaystyle b.} ∫ a b f ( x ) d x = lim n → ∞ ∑ i = 1 n f ( x i ) Δ x i {\displaystyle \int _{a}^{b}f(x)\mathrm {d} x=\lim _{n\to \infty }\sum _{i=1}^{n}f(x_{i})\Delta x_{i}} Of course, this limit has to exist in order for the integral to have any meaning. If such a limit does not exist on the interval, then we say that f ( x ) {\displaystyle f(x)} does not have an integral over the interval [ a , b ]. {\displaystyle [a,b].} In this article (and in almost every physical application), we only deal with functions where these integrals exist. Remember +C{\displaystyle +C} when evaluating indefinite integrals. One of the most common mistakes people can make is forgetting to add the constant of integration. The reason why this is needed is because antiderivatives are not unique. In fact, a function can have an infinite number of antiderivatives. They are allowed because the derivative of a constant is 0. The Power Rule: This rule lets you find both the indefinite and definite integrals. Just take the exponent in the function and add 1, then divide by that same value. Finally, add the constant C. {\displaystyle C.} You can use this rule in many functions, like polynomials, functions with roots, and rational functions. Simply put, if you can write it with exponents, you can most likely use the power rule. Consider a monomial xn{\displaystyle x^{n}}, then perform the power rule. This is the same power rule for derivatives, but in reverse. We increase the power by 1, and divide by the new power. Don't forget to add the constant of integration C. {\displaystyle C.} ∫ x n d x = x n + 1 n + 1 + C {\displaystyle \int x^{n}\mathrm {d} x={\frac {x^{n+1}}{n+1}}+C} To verify that this power rule holds, differentiate the antiderivative to recover the original function. The power rule holds for all functions of this form with degree n {\displaystyle n} except when n = − 1. {\displaystyle n=-1.} We will see why later. Apply linearity. Integration is a linear operator, which means that the integral of a sum is the sum of the integrals, and the coefficient of each term can be factored out, like so: ∫ ( a x n + b x m ) d x = a ∫ x n d x + b ∫ x m d x {\displaystyle \int (ax^{n}+bx^{m})\mathrm {d} x=a\int x^{n}\mathrm {d} x+b\int x^{m}\mathrm {d} x} This should be familiar because the derivative is also a linear operator; the derivative of a sum is the sum of the derivatives. Linearity does not apply just for integrals of polynomials. It applies to any integral where the integrand is a sum of two or more terms. Find the antiderivative of the function f(x)=x4+2x3−5x2−1{\displaystyle f(x)=x^{4}+2x^{3}-5x^{2}-1}. This is a polynomial, so using the property of linearity and the power rule, the antiderivative can easily be computed. To find the antiderivative of a constant, remember that x 0 = 1 , {\displaystyle x^{0}=1,} so the constant is really just the coefficient of x 0. {\displaystyle x^{0}.} ∫ ( x 4 + 2 x 3 − 5 x 2 − 1 ) d x = 1 5 x 5 + 2 4 x 4 − 5 3 x 3 − x + C {\displaystyle \int (x^{4}+2x^{3}-5x^{2}-1)\mathrm {d} x={\frac {1}{5}}x^{5}+{\frac {2}{4}}x^{4}-{\frac {5}{3}}x^{3}-x+C} Find the antiderivative of the function f(x)=2x2+3x−1x1/3{\displaystyle f(x)={\frac {2x^{2}+3x-1}{x^{1/3}}}}. This may seem like a function that defies our rules, but a moment's glance reveals that we can separate the fraction into three fractions and apply linearity and the power rule to find the antiderivative. ∫ f ( x ) d x = ∫ 2 x 2 + 3 x − 1 x 1 / 3 d x = ∫ ( 2 x 2 x 1 / 3 + 3 x x 1 / 3 − 1 x 1 / 3 ) d x = ∫ ( 2 x 5 / 3 + 3 x 2 / 3 − x − 1 / 3 ) d x = 2 ⋅ 3 8 x 8 / 3 + 3 ⋅ 3 5 x 5 / 3 − 3 2 x 2 / 3 + C = 3 4 x 8 / 3 + 9 5 x 5 / 3 − 3 2 x 2 / 3 + C {\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}\int f(x)\mathrm {d} x&=\int {\frac {2x^{2}+3x-1}{x^{1/3}}}\mathrm {d} x\\&=\int \left({\frac {2x^{2}}{x^{1/3}}}+{\frac {3x}{x^{1/3}}}-{\frac {1}{x^{1/3}}}\right)\mathrm {d} x\\&=\int (2x^{5/3}+3x^{2/3}-x^{-1/3})\mathrm {d} x\\&=2\cdot {\frac {3}{8}}x^{8/3}+3\cdot {\frac {3}{5}}x^{5/3}-{\frac {3}{2}}x^{2/3}+C\\&={\frac {3}{4}}x^{8/3}+{\frac {9}{5}}x^{5/3}-{\frac {3}{2}}x^{2/3}+C\end{aligned}}} The common theme is that you must perform whatever manipulations in order to get the integral into a polynomial. From there, integration is easy. Judging whether the integral is easy enough to brute-force, or requires some algebraic manipulation first, is where the skill lies. Definite Integral: If an integral is definite, it has both start and end values. Therefore, it would be written like this: ( a , b ) {\displaystyle (a,b)}. When you write them in an equation, you put them on the top and the bottom of the long S, like this:. ∫ a b {\displaystyle \int _{a}^{b}} If the long S does not have any numbers on the top or bottom, it's an indefinite integral. Consider the integral below. Notice how there are numbers on both the top and the bottom of the long S. This means that unlike the integration process in part 2, we also have bounds to evaluate at. ∫ 2 3 x 2 d x {\displaystyle \int _{2}^{3}x^{2}\mathrm {d} x} Use the fundamental theorem of calculus. This theorem is in two parts. The first part was stated in the first sentence of this article: integration is the inverse operation of differentiation, so integrating and then differentiating a function recovers the original function. The second part is stated below. Let F ( x ) {\displaystyle F(x)} be an antiderivative of f ( x ). {\displaystyle f(x).} Then ∫ a b f ( x ) d x = F ( b ) − F ( a ). {\displaystyle \int _{a}^{b}f(x)\mathrm {d} x=F(b)-F(a).} This theorem is incredibly useful because it simplifies the integral and means that the definite integral is completely determined by just the values on its boundaries. There is no need to sum up rectangles anymore to compute integrals. All we need to do now is to find antiderivatives, and evaluate at the bounds! Evaluate the original integral. Now that we have the fundamental theorem as a tool for solving integrals, we can easily calculate the value of the integral as defined above. ∫ 2 3 x 2 d x = 1 3 x 3 \| 2 3 = 1 3 ( 3 ) 3 − 1 3 ( 2 ) 3 = 19 3 {\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}\int _{2}^{3}x^{2}\mathrm {d} x&={\frac {1}{3}}x^{3}{\Bigg \|}_{2}^{3}\\&={\frac {1}{3}}(3)^{3}-{\frac {1}{3}}(2)^{3}\\&={\frac {19}{3}}\end{aligned}}} Again, the fundamental theorem of calculus does not just apply to functions like f ( x ) = x 2. {\displaystyle f(x)=x^{2}.} The fundamental theorem can be used to integrate any function, as long as you can find an antiderivative. Remember to keep the boundaries in place when you evaluate. If you evaluate the integral with the boundaries swapped, you'll get the inverse answer. Let's try it out to see what happens: ∫ 3 2 x 2 d x = 1 3 x 3 \| 3 2 = 1 3 ( 2 ) 3 − 1 3 ( 3 ) 3 = − 19 3 {\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}\int _{3}^{2}x^{2}\mathrm {d} x&={\frac {1}{3}}x^{3}{\Bigg \|}_{3}^{2}\\&={\frac {1}{3}}(2)^{3}-{\frac {1}{3}}(3)^{3}\\&=-{\frac {19}{3}}\end{aligned}}} We just obtained the negative of the answer we got before. This illustrates an important property of definite integrals. Swapping the boundaries negates the integral. ∫ b a f ( x ) d x = − ∫ a b f ( x ) d x {\displaystyle \int _{b}^{a}f(x)\mathrm {d} x=-\int _{a}^{b}f(x)\mathrm {d} x} Antiderivative: Finding the antiderivative of a function means finding the function that has a derivative equal to our original function. Often, antiderivatives get mixed up with integration, but they are slightly different. The definition sounds paradoxical, but it will become clearer with an example. Memorize the antiderivatives of exponential functions. In the following steps, we list commonly encountered functions like the exponential and trigonometric functions. All are widely encountered, so knowing what their antiderivatives are is crucial to building up integrating skills. Remember that indefinite integrals have an extra C , {\displaystyle C,} because the derivative of a constant is 0. ∫ e x d x = e x + C {\displaystyle \int e^{x}\mathrm {d} x=e^{x}+C} ∫ a x d x = a x ln ⁡ a + C {\displaystyle \int a^{x}\mathrm {d} x={\frac {a^{x}}{\ln a}}+C} Memorize the antiderivatives of trigonometric functions. These are just the derivatives applied backwards and should be familiar. The sines and cosines are encountered far more often and should definitely be memorized. Hyperbolic analogues are similarly found, though they are encountered less often. ∫ sin ⁡ x d x = − cos ⁡ x + C {\displaystyle \int \sin x\mathrm {d} x=-\cos x+C} ∫ cos ⁡ x d x = sin ⁡ x + C {\displaystyle \int \cos x\mathrm {d} x=\sin x+C} ∫ sec 2 ⁡ x d x = tan ⁡ x + C {\displaystyle \int \sec ^{2}x\mathrm {d} x=\tan x+C} ∫ csc 2 ⁡ x d x = − cot ⁡ x + C {\displaystyle \int \csc ^{2}x\mathrm {d} x=-\cot x+C} ∫ sec ⁡ x tan ⁡ x d x = sec ⁡ x + C {\displaystyle \int \sec x\tan x\mathrm {d} x=\sec x+C} ∫ csc ⁡ x cot ⁡ x d x = − csc ⁡ x + C {\displaystyle \int \csc x\cot x\mathrm {d} x=-\csc x+C} Memorize the antiderivatives of inverse trigonometric functions. These should not really be considered an exercise in "memorization." As long as you are familiar with the derivatives, then most of these antiderivatives should be familiar as well. ∫ 1 1 − x 2 d x = sin − 1 ⁡ x + C {\displaystyle \int {\frac {1}{\sqrt {1-x^{2}}}}\mathrm {d} x=\sin ^{-1}x+C} ∫ − 1 1 − x 2 d x = cos − 1 ⁡ x + C {\displaystyle \int {\frac {-1}{\sqrt {1-x^{2}}}}\mathrm {d} x=\cos ^{-1}x+C} ∫ 1 1 + x 2 d x = tan − 1 ⁡ x + C {\displaystyle \int {\frac {1}{1+x^{2}}}\mathrm {d} x=\tan ^{-1}x+C} Memorize the antiderivative of the reciprocal function. Previously, we said that the function f ( x ) = x − 1 , {\displaystyle f(x)=x^{-1},} or f ( x ) = 1 x , {\displaystyle f(x)={\frac {1}{x}},} was an exception to the power rule. The reason is because the antiderivative of this function is the logarithmic function. ∫ 1 x d x = ln ⁡ \| x \| + C {\displaystyle \int {\frac {1}{x}}\mathrm {d} x=\ln \|x\|+C} (Sometimes, authors like to put the d x {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} x} in the numerator of the fraction, so it reads like ∫ d x x. {\displaystyle \int {\frac {\mathrm {d} x}{x}}.} Be aware of this notation.) The reason for the absolute value in the logarithm function is subtle, and requires a more thorough understanding of real analysis in order to fully answer. For now, we will just live with the fact that the domains become the same when the absolute value bars are added. Evaluate the following integral over the given bounds. Our function is given as f ( x ) = 2 cos ⁡ x + tan 2 ⁡ x − 6. {\displaystyle f(x)=2\cos x+\tan ^{2}x-6.} Here, we don't know the antiderivative of tan 2 ⁡ x , {\displaystyle \tan ^{2}x,} but we can use a trigonometric identity to rewrite the integrand in terms of a function which we know the antiderivative of - namely, 1 + tan 2 ⁡ x = sec 2 ⁡ x. {\displaystyle 1+\tan ^{2}x=\sec ^{2}x.} ∫ π / 4 π / 3 f ( x ) d x = ∫ π / 4 π / 3 ( 2 cos ⁡ x + tan 2 ⁡ x − 6 ) d x = ∫ π / 4 π / 3 ( 2 cos ⁡ x + sec 2 ⁡ x − 7 ) d x = ( 2 sin ⁡ x + tan ⁡ x − 7 x ) \| π / 4 π / 3 = ( 2 sin ⁡ π 3 + tan ⁡ π 3 − 7 π 3 ) − ( 2 sin ⁡ π 4 + tan ⁡ π 4 − 7 π 4 ) = 2 3 − 2 − 1 − 7 π 12 {\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}\int _{\pi /4}^{\pi /3}f(x)\mathrm {d} x&=\int _{\pi /4}^{\pi /3}(2\cos x+\tan ^{2}x-6)\mathrm {d} x\\&=\int _{\pi /4}^{\pi /3}(2\cos x+\sec ^{2}x-7)\mathrm {d} x\\&=(2\sin x+\tan x-7x){\Big \|}_{\pi /4}^{\pi /3}\\&=\left(2\sin {\frac {\pi }{3}}+\tan {\frac {\pi }{3}}-{\frac {7\pi }{3}}\right)-\left(2\sin {\frac {\pi }{4}}+\tan {\frac {\pi }{4}}-{\frac {7\pi }{4}}\right)\\&=2{\sqrt {3}}-{\sqrt {2}}-1-{\frac {7\pi }{12}}\end{aligned}}} If you need a decimal approximation, you can use a calculator here. 2 3 − 2 − 1 − 7 π 12 ≈ − 0.7827. {\displaystyle 2{\sqrt {3}}-{\sqrt {2}}-1-{\frac {7\pi }{12}}\approx -0.7827.} Evaluate the integral of an even function. Even functions are functions with the property that f ( − x ) = f ( x ). {\displaystyle f(-x)=f(x).} In other words, you should be able to replace every x {\displaystyle x} with a − x {\displaystyle -x} and get the same function. An example of an even function is x 2. {\displaystyle x^{2}.} Another example is the cosine function. All even functions are symmetric about the y-axis. ∫ − 1 1 ( cos ⁡ x + x 4 ) d x {\displaystyle \int _{-1}^{1}(\cos x+x^{4})\mathrm {d} x} Our integrand is even. We can immediately integrate by using the fundamental theorem of calculus, but if we look more carefully, we see that the bounds are symmetric about x = 0. {\displaystyle x=0.} That means that the integral from -1 to 0 is going to give us the same value as the integral from 0 to 1. So what we can do is we can change the bounds to 0 and 1 and factor out a 2. ∫ − 1 1 ( cos ⁡ x + x 4 ) d x = 2 ∫ 0 1 ( cos ⁡ x + x 4 ) d x {\displaystyle \int _{-1}^{1}(\cos x+x^{4})\mathrm {d} x=2\int _{0}^{1}(\cos x+x^{4})\mathrm {d} x} It might not seem like much to do this, but we will immediately see that our work is simplified. After finding the antiderivative, notice that we only need to evaluate it at x = 1. {\displaystyle x=1.} The antiderivative at x = 0 {\displaystyle x=0} will not contribute to the integral. 2 ∫ 0 1 ( cos ⁡ x + x 4 ) d x = 2 sin ⁡ 1 + 2 5 {\displaystyle 2\int _{0}^{1}(\cos x+x^{4})\mathrm {d} x=2\sin 1+{\frac {2}{5}}} Perform a simplification whenever you see an even function. In general, whenever you see an even function with symmetric boundaries, you should perform this simplification in order to make less arithmetic mistakes. It will make your workload easier so you don't have to spend as much time correcting yourself at the end. ∫ − a a f ( x ) d x = 2 ∫ 0 a f ( x ) d x , f ( x ) e v e n {\displaystyle \int _{-a}^{a}f(x)\mathrm {d} x=2\int _{0}^{a}f(x)\mathrm {d} x,\ \ f(x)\ \mathrm {even} } Evaluate the integral of an odd function. Odd functions are functions with the property that f ( − x ) = − f ( x ). {\displaystyle f(-x)=-f(x).} In other words, you should be able to replace every x {\displaystyle x} with a − x {\displaystyle -x} and then get the negative of the original function. An example of an odd function is x 3. {\displaystyle x^{3}.} The sine and tangent functions are also odd. All odd functions are symmetric about the origin (imagine rotating the negative part of the function by 180° - it will then stack on top of the positive part of the function). If the bounds are symmetric, then the integral will be 0. ∫ − π / 2 π / 2 ( 2 x 3 + 2 sin ⁡ x ) d x {\displaystyle \int _{-\pi /2}^{\pi /2}(2x^{3}+2\sin x)\mathrm {d} x} We could evaluate this integral directly...or we can recognize that our integrand is odd. Furthermore, the boundaries are symmetric about the origin. Therefore, our integral is 0. Why is this the case? It is because the antiderivative is even. Even functions have the property that f ( − x ) = f ( x ) , {\displaystyle f(-x)=f(x),} so when we evaluate at the bounds − a {\displaystyle -a} and a , {\displaystyle a,} then F ( − a ) = F ( a ) {\displaystyle F(-a)=F(a)} immediately implies that F ( a ) − F ( − a ) = 0. {\displaystyle F(a)-F(-a)=0.} ∫ − π / 2 π / 2 ( 2 x 3 + 2 sin ⁡ x ) d x = 0 {\displaystyle \int _{-\pi /2}^{\pi /2}(2x^{3}+2\sin x)\mathrm {d} x=0} The properties of these functions are very potent in simplifying the integrals, but the boundaries must be symmetric. Otherwise, we will need to evaluate the old way. ∫ − a a f ( x ) d x = 0 , f ( x ) o d d {\displaystyle \int _{-a}^{a}f(x)\mathrm {d} x=0,\ \ f(x)\ \mathrm {odd} } U-substitution: This is a technique that changes variables with the hope of obtaining an easier integral. As we will see, it is the analogue of the chain rule for derivatives. This is also called “Integration by Substitution” or “The Reverse Chain Rule.” Evaluate the integral of eax{\displaystyle e^{ax}}. What do we do when the exponent has a coefficient in it? We use u-substitution to change variables. It turns out that these kinds of u-subs are the easiest to perform, and they are done so often, the u-sub is often skipped. Nevertheless, we will show the entire process. ∫ e a x d x {\displaystyle \int e^{ax}\mathrm {d} x} Choose a u{\displaystyle u} and find du{\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u}. We choose u = a x {\displaystyle u=ax} so that we get a e u {\displaystyle e^{u}} in the integrand, a function whose antiderivative we are familiar with - itself. Then we must replace d x {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} x} with d u , {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u,} but we need to make sure that we are keeping track of our terms. In this example, d u = a d x , {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u=a\mathrm {d} x,} so we need to divide the whole integral by a {\displaystyle a} to compensate. ∫ e a x d x = 1 a ∫ e u d u {\displaystyle \int e^{ax}\mathrm {d} x={\frac {1}{a}}\int e^{u}\mathrm {d} u} Evaluate and rewrite in terms of the original variable. For indefinite integrals, you must rewrite in terms of the original variable. ∫ e a x d x = 1 a e a x + C {\displaystyle \int e^{ax}\mathrm {d} x={\frac {1}{a}}e^{ax}+C} Evaluate the following integral with the given boundaries. This is a definite integral, so we need to evaluate the antiderivative at the boundaries. We will also see that this u-sub is a case where you need to "back-substitute." ∫ 0 1 x 2 x + 3 d x {\displaystyle \int _{0}^{1}x{\sqrt {2x+3}}\mathrm {d} x} Choose a u{\displaystyle u} and find du{\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u}. Make sure to change your boundaries as well according to your substitution. We choose u = 2 x + 3 {\displaystyle u=2x+3} so that we simplify the square root. Then d u = 2 d x , {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u=2\mathrm {d} x,} and the bounds then go from 3 to 5. However, after replacing the d x {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} x} with a d u , {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u,} we still have an x {\displaystyle x} in the integrand. ∫ 0 1 x 2 x + 3 d x = 1 2 ∫ 3 5 x u d u {\displaystyle \int _{0}^{1}x{\sqrt {2x+3}}\mathrm {d} x={\frac {1}{2}}\int _{3}^{5}x{\sqrt {u}}\mathrm {d} u} Solve for x{\displaystyle x} in terms of u{\displaystyle u} and substitute. This is the back-substitution that we were talking about earlier. Our u-sub did not get rid of all the x {\displaystyle x} terms in the integrand, so we need to back-sub to get rid of it. We find that x = u − 3 2. {\displaystyle x={\frac {u-3}{2}}.} After simplifying, we get the following. 1 2 ∫ 3 5 x u d u = 1 4 ∫ 3 5 ( u − 3 ) u d u {\displaystyle {\frac {1}{2}}\int _{3}^{5}x{\sqrt {u}}\mathrm {d} u={\frac {1}{4}}\int _{3}^{5}(u-3){\sqrt {u}}\mathrm {d} u} Expand and evaluate. An advantage when dealing with definite integrals is that you do not need to rewrite the antiderivative in terms of the original variable before evaluating. Doing so would introduce needless complications. 1 4 ∫ 3 5 ( u − 3 ) u d u = 1 4 ∫ 3 5 ( u 3 / 2 − 3 u 1 / 2 ) d u = 1 4 ( 2 5 u 5 / 2 − 3 ⋅ 2 3 u 3 / 2 ) \| 3 5 = 1 4 ( 2 5 ( 5 ) 5 / 2 − 2 ⋅ ( 5 ) 3 / 2 − 2 5 ( 3 ) 5 / 2 + 2 ⋅ ( 3 ) 3 / 2 ) = 1 4 ( − 6 5 ⋅ 3 3 / 2 + 2 ⋅ 3 3 / 2 ) = 1 4 4 5 3 3 / 2 = 3 3 5 {\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}{\frac {1}{4}}\int _{3}^{5}(u-3){\sqrt {u}}\mathrm {d} u&={\frac {1}{4}}\int _{3}^{5}(u^{3/2}-3u^{1/2})\mathrm {d} u\\&={\frac {1}{4}}\left({\frac {2}{5}}u^{5/2}-3\cdot {\frac {2}{3}}u^{3/2}\right){\Bigg \|}_{3}^{5}\\&={\frac {1}{4}}\left({\frac {2}{5}}(5)^{5/2}-2\cdot (5)^{3/2}-{\frac {2}{5}}(3)^{5/2}+2\cdot (3)^{3/2}\right)\\&={\frac {1}{4}}\left(-{\frac {6}{5}}\cdot 3^{3/2}+2\cdot 3^{3/2}\right)\\&={\frac {1}{4}}{\frac {4}{5}}3^{3/2}\\&={\frac {3{\sqrt {3}}}{5}}\end{aligned}}} Integrate by Parts: The integration by parts formula is given below. The main goal of integration by parts is to integrate the product of two functions - hence, it is the analogue of the product rule for derivatives. This technique simplifies the integral into one that is hopefully easier to evaluate. ∫ u d v = u v − ∫ v d u {\displaystyle \int u\mathrm {d} v=uv-\int v\mathrm {d} u} Evaluate the integral of the logarithm function. We know that the derivative of ln ⁡ x {\displaystyle \ln x} is 1 x , {\displaystyle {\frac {1}{x}},} but not the antiderivative. It turns out that this integral is a simple application of integration by parts. ∫ ln ⁡ x d x {\displaystyle \int \ln x\mathrm {d} x} Choose a u{\displaystyle u} and dv,{\displaystyle \mathrm {d} v,} and find du{\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u} and v{\displaystyle v}. We choose u = ln ⁡ x {\displaystyle u=\ln x} because the derivative is algebraic and therefore easier to manipulate. Then d v = d x. {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} v=\mathrm {d} x.} Therefore, d u = 1 x d x {\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u={\frac {1}{x}}\mathrm {d} x} and v = x. {\displaystyle v=x.} Substituting all of these into the formula, we obtain the following. ∫ ln ⁡ x d x = x ln ⁡ x − ∫ d x {\displaystyle \int \ln x\mathrm {d} x=x\ln x-\int \mathrm {d} x} We converted the integral of a logarithm into the integral of 1, which is trivial to evaluate. Evaluate to get your answer. Remember to include C {\displaystyle C} as an addition. ∫ ln ⁡ x d x = x ln ⁡ x − x + C {\displaystyle \int \ln x\mathrm {d} x=x\ln x-x+C} Select “Math,” then “9. ” From your home screen, this will take you to the definite integral function. You can use your arrow buttons to scroll up and down on the screen and select which field you'd like to choose. This is a method that works for both TI-83 calculators and TI-84 calculators. Older models may be slightly different. You can only work with definite integrals on the calculator. If the integral doesn't have any boundaries, you won't be able to enter it. If you'd like to graph your integral instead of just getting an answer, head to your Y plots instead. Type in the boundaries and the function. The boundaries are the numbers on the top and the bottom of the long S symbol. Type in the boundaries and the function exactly how you see them in the equation. Remember not to flip the boundaries, as that will give you an inverse answer. If you're graphing your integrals, type the boundaries and the function into the Y1 plot. Then, select the upper and lower boundaries of the integral as best you can on the graph itself. Press “Enter” to get your answer. Your calculator will tell you the definite integral in a whole number as your answer. Or, if you're doing a graph, it will show you what your integral looks like on the screen along with the answer. Remember, this is only for definite integrals.	Use integration to find areas, central points, and volumes. Memorize the notation for integration. Understand the definition of an integral. Remember +C{\displaystyle +C} when evaluating indefinite integrals. The Power Rule: Consider a monomial xn{\displaystyle x^{n}}, then perform the power rule. Apply linearity. Find the antiderivative of the function f(x)=x4+2x3−5x2−1{\displaystyle f(x)=x^{4}+2x^{3}-5x^{2}-1}. Find the antiderivative of the function f(x)=2x2+3x−1x1/3{\displaystyle f(x)={\frac {2x^{2}+3x-1}{x^{1/3}}}}. Definite Integral: Consider the integral below. Use the fundamental theorem of calculus. Evaluate the original integral. Remember to keep the boundaries in place when you evaluate. Antiderivative: Memorize the antiderivatives of exponential functions. Memorize the antiderivatives of trigonometric functions. Memorize the antiderivatives of inverse trigonometric functions. Memorize the antiderivative of the reciprocal function. Evaluate the following integral over the given bounds. Evaluate the integral of an even function. Perform a simplification whenever you see an even function. Evaluate the integral of an odd function. U-substitution: Evaluate the integral of eax{\displaystyle e^{ax}}. Choose a u{\displaystyle u} and find du{\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u}. Evaluate and rewrite in terms of the original variable. Evaluate the following integral with the given boundaries. Choose a u{\displaystyle u} and find du{\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u}. Solve for x{\displaystyle x} in terms of u{\displaystyle u} and substitute. Expand and evaluate. Integrate by Parts: Evaluate the integral of the logarithm function. Choose a u{\displaystyle u} and dv,{\displaystyle \mathrm {d} v,} and find du{\displaystyle \mathrm {d} u} and v{\displaystyle v}. Evaluate to get your answer. Select “Math,” then “9. Type in the boundaries and the function. Press “Enter” to get your answer.
https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Koi-Fish-Pond	How to Build a Koi Fish Pond	To build a koi pond, choose an accessible spot that can accommodate a pond that's at least 12 feet long and 10 feet wide with a depth of 3-4 feet. Next, use a rope or spray paint to mark the desired pond shape on the ground. Then, dig up the ground with a shovel until you reach your desired depth and line the bottom of the hole with a plastic or rubber liner. Finally, weigh down the liner around the edges with rocks and dig a 3-inch ridge around the edges of the rocks.	Choose a pond that is a minimum of 12 feet (3.7 m) long by 10 feet (3.0 m) wide. This is an ideal and popular size for a backyard, hobby koi fish pond. A pond of this size generally holds 10 mature fish, giving them enough space to thrive and for the pond to not look overcrowded. Keep the width of the pond 13 feet (4.0 m) or under, as otherwise, it will be difficult to catch the fish using a net if you need to. Make your koi pond 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) deep. A good size for a hobby koi pond is 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) deep. Some ponds for koi that are raised for competitions reach a depth of 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m), however, for beginners and hobby koi enthusiasts, having a deeper pond isn't necessary. It's important that the pond is a minimum of 3 feet (0.91 m) as this makes it less likely to fully freeze over during winter. Once you have determined the size and depth of the pond, you will be able to calculate the estimated volume. To calculate the volume of the pond in cubic feet, multiply the depth by the width by the length. To calculate the volume of the pond in gallons, multiply the volume in cubic feet by 7.5. You will need these volume measurements for the upkeep of the water quality in the pond. Choose an accessible location for your koi pond. Walk around your garden and pick where you would like the pond to go. Make sure that the site is very accessible so that you can easily bring in all of the materials for the pond and have enough space to work. Some people like to have a koi fish pond located close to their home and viewable from a window, while others prefer to have the pond set back into the garden so that you can take a walk to reach it. Clear the site where you are planning to put the pond. Once you have decided on the size, depth, and location of the pond, get the area where your working area ready. Move any vegetation or furniture out of the way. Pull up any pavers that may be covering the ground. Make sure that there is enough room around the site so that you can work there easily. Map out the shape of the pond on the ground. Mark out the dimensions of your pond directly onto the ground. Choose a shape for the pond to be based on the dimensions that you have decided. Use either rope, a garden hose, or spray paint to make sure that you are happy with the size and location of the pond. Koi ponds are often rectangles, L-shaped polygons, or irregular, round shapes. Dig the hole for the pond. Use your measurements and plan to start digging the hole for your koi fish pond. Use a sturdy shovel and get a friend to help you if possible, as this will make the process go a lot faster. Dig the sides of the pond so that they slope gently downwards towards the center if possible. The widest part of the pond is at the top. Line the pond with a tough plastic or rubber liner. Order a one-piece pond liner from a home improvement or landscaping supplier. Install the liner as per the manufacturer's directions. Have several people help you to roll it out over the pond. Make sure that it overlaps the edges of the pond by at least 3 feet (0.91 m) so that it can be adequately secured in place. Remove any sharp rocks or stones that you see in the hole before you lay the liner to prevent the liner from being damaged. A liner in one piece will prevent the pond from leaking. Place rocks over the liner around the edge of the pond. Use large stones and rocks to completely cover the liner that is at surface level, leaving only the hole for the pond exposed. Stack and overlap the rocks using whatever design that you prefer. Make sure that at least 1 foot (0.30 m) of the liner is exposed beyond the edge of the rocks, as you will need this to prevent rainwater from getting into the pond. Dig a 3 in (7.6 cm) high ridge around the edge of the rocks. Once you are happy with the final layout of the rocks and stones, dig a ridge around the edge. Use a spade to shift the dirt into a ridge formation up against the rocks. Make sure that the liner reaches onto the ridge. The end result will look like a small ridge running along the entire outline of the pond. The ridge will be just beyond the rocks along the edge. This prevents rainwater, soil, lawn chemicals, and grass clippings from reaching the pond water. Fill the pond with water. Use a garden hose to fill up the koi fish pond. If the water isn't fresh or spring water, use a dechlorinator, a carbon charcoal filter, or a water conditioner to remove the chlorine. You can purchase these chlorine treatments from pond or fish supply stores. Always treat chlorinated water before adding it to the pond if there are fish already in it. Contact your water supplier if you are unsure about the water quality. Chlorinated water is toxic for fish such as koi. Ensure the pH of the water remains between 7 and 8.6. Use a water testing kit to test if the pH and dissolved nutrients are at the right levels for the fish. Adjust the parameters of the water if the testing kit shows that it is necessary. This helps the koi to stay happy and healthy. It is a common problem to have dissolved nutrient levels that are too high. Avoid overfeeding the koi and overstocking the pond, and change the water gradually if necessary. If you need to change the water in the pond, do it in amounts of 10% to 20% of the total volume. Otherwise, the fish may go into shock. Keep the temperature of the pond around 65 °F (18 °C). Measure the temperature of the pond regularly with a thermometer. Use a pond heater as well as an aerator if necessary. If you find that the pond is getting too warm, very gradually add cold water to slowly reduce the temperature in the pond. Koi can survive in water that is 34–90 °F (1–32 °C), but they do best at 65 °F (18 °C). Never change the water temperature of the pond all at once, as this can cause the koi to go into shock which can be deadly. Install a filtration system into the koi fish pond. Purchase a filtration system from a pond equipment supplier and follow the installation directions closely. All pond filtration systems involve a bottom drain, a settling chamber, mechanical filtration, and biological processing. This keeps the pond clean and the water quality high so that the koi stay healthy. Set up the filtration system box right next to the koi pond. Dig it into the ground slightly. Install the individual parts in the pond as per the installation directions. The settling chamber makes it easy for you to remove debris from the pond to keep it clean. An ideal settling chamber size for koi fish ponds is 40 in (1.0 m) deep and 40 in (1.0 m) in diameter. The mechanical filtration part of the system will catch debris as it floats through the water. Biological filtration is the addition of beneficial bacteria into the pond. This reduces the levels of ammonia and nitrite in the water which are toxic for koi. Place an aerator in the pond. A pond aerator will keep the pond water moving at all times. This keeps the water stirring, oxygenates the pond, and promotes gas exchange. It also prevents the pond water from freezing during colder months. A pond aerator is an ideal and economical substitute for a pond heater. The size of the pond aerator that you need depends on the size of your koi pond. Know the volume, shape, and depth of your koi pond before you purchase an aerator and choose one that is designed for the size of your koi pond. Turn on the filtration system and aerator. Once your pond is full of water, start preparing the water for the koi by getting the filtration system and aerator up and running. Always do this before adding the koi to the pond. Put the koi into the pond once it is set up. Keep the koi in the water and in the plastic bag that they were purchased in. Float the plastic bag in your koi pond for 30 minutes so that they can adjust to the temperature change. Then add a bit of pond water into the plastic bag, tie it up, and let it float for an additional 30 minutes to help the koi adjust to the pond water. After the koi have been given time to adjust, open the plastic bag again and release them into their new pond. Don't let the plastic bag float continuously in direct sunlight, as this could cause the koi to overheat. Place a towel over the bag if there isn't a shady spot. Care for the koi. Feed the koi specialty pellets regularly and treat any health problems that arise. Maintain the water quality in the pond and keep it clean, so that the koi stay happy and healthy!	Choose a pond that is a minimum of 12 feet (3.7 m) long by 10 feet (3.0 m) wide. Make your koi pond 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) deep. Choose an accessible location for your koi pond. Clear the site where you are planning to put the pond. Map out the shape of the pond on the ground. Dig the hole for the pond. Line the pond with a tough plastic or rubber liner. Place rocks over the liner around the edge of the pond. Dig a 3 in (7.6 cm) high ridge around the edge of the rocks. Fill the pond with water. Ensure the pH of the water remains between 7 and 8.6. Keep the temperature of the pond around 65 °F (18 °C). Install a filtration system into the koi fish pond. Place an aerator in the pond. Turn on the filtration system and aerator. Put the koi into the pond once it is set up. Care for the koi.
https://www.wikihow.com/Identify-a-Nursery-Web-Spider	How to Identify a Nursery Web Spider	To identify a nursery web spider, take note of the size and color of the spider you're looking at. If it's leg span is around 3 inches and it's tan, gray, beige, or buff with dark brown stripes, there's a good chance it's a nursery web spider. You can also tell if the spider you're looking at is a nursery web spider by examining its body shape. If the spider is thin with long, slender legs, it could be a nursery web spider.	Look for large spiders. The nursery web spider is one of the largest true spiders. They are so big that they are sometimes mistakenly thought to be close relatives of the tarantula. The nursery web spider's body is typically about a quarter of an inch to an inch in size, but it may spread its legs out to as far as three inches. Take note of coloration. Although there are several different variations in coloring, nursery web spiders generally have a base color that is tan, gray, beige, or buff, with darker brown stripes or other markings. Close inspection of the legs of these spiders will reveal small black spines sticking out. Examine the spider's eyes. Nursery web spiders have eight eyes. They appear in two horizontal rows. The bottom row is nearly straight, while the top row curves upward forming a "u" shape. The eyes of the upper row are somewhat larger than the lower one. Examining the eyes, if you can get close enough to do so, is a good way to differentiate between the nursery web spider and the wolf spider, which have a different arrangement of eyes. Specifically, wolf spiders have three rows of eyes. Look at the shape of the spider's body. The nursery web spider has a slender body. Its abdomen is widest in the middle and tapers toward the rear. Male nursery web spiders are typically very slender. An egg-bearing female, however, may have a very large abdomen. Watch for an egg sac. Possibly the easiest way to identify a female nursery web spider is to watch for any spiders that are carrying an egg sac. A nursery web spider will carry her eggs in her fangs until they are nearly ready to hatch. The egg sac looks like a tiny white golf ball. It typically contains a few hundred eggs. The spider will carry the egg sac underneath her body. Look for a nursery web. When it is almost time for the eggs to hatch, the female spider will spin a protective nursery web. This tangled web is usually spun in high weeds or low shrubs, with the egg sac itself suspended inside a leaf. After spinning the nursery web, the mother spider will stand guard over it until the eggs have hatched. The nursery web spider will shelter the young spiders until they are ready to fend for themselves. Watch hunting behavior. Nursery web spiders, unlike many other species, do not spin webs for hunting purposes. Instead, these spiders hide in wait for prey (typically insects) and then spring out quickly to catch it. Instead of entangling insects in a web, the nursery web spider simply overpowers and subdues its prey. These spiders hunt both by day and by night. Observe posture. A nursery web spider, while at rest, will often adopt an "X" shaped posture, holding its front and hind pairs of legs together. Learn the nursery web spider's range. Nursery web spiders are quite common across much of North America. They are most commonly found in the eastern part of the US and southeastern Canada. People disagree about how far west these spiders can be found. Some say they have been found all the way out in the states of the West Coast. Others disagree. It is safe to say, however, that they are less common in western states and provinces. Look for them in their normal habitats. You can look for nursery web spiders in a variety of different types of habitats. They are often found near water. They are known to inhabit the following areas: Woodlands Farms and gardens Grasslands and heaths Old fields Rocky areas along the edge of streams and other water Watch for them in the right season. Nursery web spiders mature in late spring and reproduce in the summer. They are most often seen between the beginning of May and the end of July. Juvenile spiders will hide under loose bark or rocks in the fall and will remain there for protection during the winter. They will emerge in the spring mature. Like most spiders, the lifecycle of this spider is about year.	Look for large spiders. Take note of coloration. Examine the spider's eyes. Look at the shape of the spider's body. Watch for an egg sac. Look for a nursery web. Watch hunting behavior. Observe posture. Learn the nursery web spider's range. Look for them in their normal habitats. Watch for them in the right season.
https://www.wikihow.com/Train-a-Coon-Dog	How to Train a Coon Dog	To train a coon dog, strengthen the dog's knowledge of the come command by rewarding the dog with affection, treats, or playtime when it runs to you when you call its name. If you want your coon hound to be able to follow scent, apply a synthetic raccoon scent to an old rag or toy, let the dog play with it, and hide the toy for the dog to find. Be sure to rub the toy on various areas, like along the ground, over tree bark, and in bushes before hiding it. When you command the dog to find the toy, wait while it traces the scent, and then reward the dog!	Understand the breed characteristics. Coonhounds refer to a group of dogs that were all bred to hunt and tree raccoons. There are a number of different types of coonhounds, including redbone, black and tan, American English, blue-tick, treeing walker, red-tick, and the plot hound, that range in weight and size. Because they were bred to hunt, coonhounds have a strong prey drive and are eager to please their owners by working. Coonhounds are the breed of choice for many small game hunters, especially in North America. They respond well to training and bred to be excellent hunters. They are hard workers and need daily exercise to satisfy their energy levels. Coonhounds hunt by scent and are expert trackers. They tend to hunt almost entirely relying on scent before they tree or corner the animal. Teach your coonhound to walk on a leash. Coonhounds are notorious for following scents and ignoring the calls of the owners when they're on the trail. Unless your dog is well trained, you should not let them off-leash in unsecured areas, like the open woods. Leash training can be more difficult with coonhounds than with other dogs, this will be an ongoing process. Attach a leash to your dog's collar and let them become acclimated to being on a leash. Begin walking with your dog and reward them with a small treat when they stay by your side. If they attempt to pull on the leash, stop walking and do not move until the dog returns to you. This way, they learn that the walk will only continue when they behave on the leash. Strengthen the come command. The come command is one of the more difficult commands for coonhounds to learn. As scent hounds, these dogs are bred to smell and are known to wander off and ignore commands whenever they pick up a scent. It is absolutely essential that your coonhound respond to the come command and return to you when they are called. When they do not know this command, you risk losing your dog to whatever scent they pick up, even if it leads them into dangerous areas. Practice the come command by calling your dog's name once and then rewarding their good behavior with a small treat when they come. Avoid yelling their name out over and over again when they don't respond; this teaches them that it's alright to ignore your call. Train in appropriate conditions. Coonhound training should start when the puppy is about 12 weeks old and have received their shots. Ideally, training should take place either early in the morning or after it has rained. The wet ground helps the coonhound to follow a scent more effectively, and it gets the dog used to walking in water and through puddles. It is recommended that you train your dog just prior to meal times, when they are hungry, rather than after meals. Know when your puppy is ready to hunt. Coon hound puppies are ready to hunt when you are certain that they will follow your obedience commands. Any puppy that struggles to come when called or heel, even 10% of the time, is not ready to hunt. You can start acclimating them to scents while they are still in obedience training, but they should never be allowed to track off leash, track a live animal, or go on a hunt. Use a scent drag. Scent is the sense that coonhounds rely on the most during the hunt so you want to begin to acclimate a puppy to following a scent early on. You can purchase raccoon scent from an outdoor or sporting retailer, or online. Apply the scent to a drag, whether it is an old rag or a retrieving dummy. You can also use a fresh raccoon carcass, but be aware that scent training is an ongoing process and you'll need to procure new carcasses to train with as the old ones begin to deteriorate. Acclimate the dog to the scent. Let the puppy play with the scented dummy so they become acclimated to the smell. Reward the puppy with a small treat for showing interest, but take the drag away before they lose interest in it. This is called “putting them away hot” and helps you to control your puppy's interest in the scent. Repeat this process for at least three days, continuing to put the drag away while it's hot. Drag the scent across your property. Attach the scented dummy or coon hide to a line or rope. Pull the line across your property, creating a scent trail. Do this while your dog is inside and cannot see you pulling the line. The trail will ultimately end at a tree, where you'll hang the scent drag or carcass. This creates a scent trail for your coonhound to practice following. Command your dog to follow the scent. After you've finished creating a scent line, put the drag away and out of sight. Bring the dog out of the house and lead them to the area where you began dragging the line. They should be on a leash, since coonhounds are prone to running after scents. Encourage them to find the scent and pair it with a verbal cue, like “find it” or “find the scent, Max.” The dog will hopefully catch on to the command and begin tracking the scent. If your dog does not seem to understand, you can lead them around the area where you pulled the drag and let them sniff the ground along the way. Their scent instincts will eventually take over. Give them a treat when they are done following the scent and respond to your come command. Practice this scent lead process for every other day for at least two weeks. Tie the carcass or scent drag to a tree. This way, your puppy will begin to associate the smell of the raccoon with trees. This helps to link the two in their mind, so when it comes to tracking a real raccoon they know that the trail will ultimately end with them treeing the animal. Each scent trail should end at a tree. Repeat this process, varying the route. The coonhound is now beginning to associate the scent of the raccoon with the hunt, and with the tree. Repeat this process of dragging a scent throughout your property several times each week. Vary the route each time, but always end at a tree where you've hung the drag or the hide. This process should be repeated at least 2-3 times each week. The first two years of your dog's life are integral to training them to a good scent hound, and this is the best way to strengthen their skills. Reward your puppy after tracking. Every time your puppy successfully tracks the scent to the tree, praise them and offer them a treat. This helps them to associate the hunt with positive things, though they will likely find it inherently enjoyable. Trap a live raccoon. If you have the means, trap a live raccoon. While it is in a cage, allow your puppy to investigate it. This should be done after they have successfully tracked a scent from the drag trail. This way, the scent is still fresh and they can associate the scent that they recognize with a live animal. Allow the puppy to sniff around the cage. They will likely begin to bark, which you should encourage. The loud and booming bark of a coonhound is what will alert you that they are on the trail of a raccoon in the woods so you can shoot it. Release the raccoon into an open area. This should only be done if you have fully trained your dog to respond to the come command and you have no doubts that your dog will respond to your calls. This should not be attempted with a dog that is not fully trained in basic obedience. You can release the raccoon from the trap into open area. Release your dog after the raccoon is out of sight. Once the raccoon is out of sight, release your dog from their leash and allow them to chase after the raccoon. They will likely bark loudly and enthusiastically follow the scent of the raccoon into a wooded area. Follow your puppy as they track. Your coonhound will follow the scent and tree the raccoon. If they are unable to find the raccoon, you will need to stop them from searching from the scent and revisit scent training. Secure your dog. Desensitizing your dog to gunfire should take place in a secure area. Do not shoot a gun in an area that is populated with other people, and only use a firearm that you are legally registered to use. Your dog should be secured in a crate. Fire your gun safely at a target. You should be within a dozen feet of your dog's crate while you are shooting. Never shoot your gun into the air, always aim at a target. Look at the dog’s reaction to the loud noise. If they seems frightened, stand farther away from the crate and repeat the exercise. Say calm and encouraging words and reward them with a treat when the exercise is over. The alternative to this process is to have someone else fire a gun at a distance while you give your puppy a treat or toy at the same time the shot is fired. During this process, they will associate the loud noise with something they like and will be less likely to be frightened by it. Repeat this exercise. Over several days, repeat this process until your puppy is no longer startled by the noise. This may take a few weeks if your puppy continues to be startled by the noise. Some dogs are more skittish and bothered by gunfire than others. This process may take repetition over the following days, or weeks.	Understand the breed characteristics. Teach your coonhound to walk on a leash. Strengthen the come command. Train in appropriate conditions. Know when your puppy is ready to hunt. Use a scent drag. Acclimate the dog to the scent. Drag the scent across your property. Command your dog to follow the scent. Tie the carcass or scent drag to a tree. Repeat this process, varying the route. Reward your puppy after tracking. Trap a live raccoon. Release the raccoon into an open area. Release your dog after the raccoon is out of sight. Follow your puppy as they track. Secure your dog. Fire your gun safely at a target. Look at the dog’s reaction to the loud noise. Repeat this exercise.
https://www.wikihow.com/Troubleshoot-Your-Brakes	How to Troubleshoot Your Brakes	If you have trouble with your car brakes, there are a few simple things to check before you go to a mechanic. If you have a persistent screeching or grinding noise from your brakes, check the pads to see if they've worn out. You may need to replace them. If your brakes are soft and you need to press them hard to slow down, you'll need to fix them immediately, since this can be dangerous. Open the hood of your car and check the brake fluid reservoir for leaks or insufficient fluid. You may also spot a leak under the car or pedal after pumping the brakes a few times. If you have a fluid leak, get it fixed by a professional mechanic. If your brakes are hard to press, check the vacuum booster under the car's hood, which is the most common cause.	Drive slowly to see if the screeching goes away. A bit of screeching in your brake pedals is normal and usually nothing to worry about. It is common in the morning when your car is still warming up, or if there was recently some rainy weather and the pads are wet. Drive around your neighborhood slowly and brake normally. If the noise goes away after a few minutes, then your brake pads were still just warming up. Inspect the brake pads if the sound continues after the car warms up. Brake pads are designed to start screeching when they're getting worn down. If the car has warmed up and you still hear a screeching noise, then you probably need new brake pads. The sound when your brake pads need replacing is also different from normal warming up noises. A metallic grinding noise indicates worn out brake pads. You probably won't notice much trouble stopping even if your brake pads are very worn down, so don't rely on this as an indicator on whether you need new brakes or not. The grinding metallic sound is the indicator. Replace your rear brakes if the pads squeal when you apply the e-brake. Even if you know that the brake pads need replacement, you may not be able to tell which ones are going bad. For a quick trick, isolate your rear brakes. Drive slowly, around 15 mph, and apply your e-brake. Since the e-brake only triggers the back brakes, screeching indicates that the back brakes are the ones that need work. Make sure no cars are behind you when you do this experiment. Remember that this trick only tells you if the rear brakes need work, but doesn't tell you if the front ones are worn out too. If you replace your back brakes and still hear screeching, then the front ones need work as well. Install new brake pads to stop the screeching. Once you've confirmed that the brake pads need replacement, install new pads to fix the problem. Either take the car to a mechanic, or if you know how to, replace the pads yourself. Remember to get pads that fit your vehicle. Check your owner's manual if you aren't sure what kind of brake pads your car uses. Drive around and apply your brakes. The screeching should stop after the pad replacement. If you still notice brake problems, take the car to a mechanic for an inspection. Check your brake fluid if the pedal feels squishy. A squishy or soft brake pedal means that you can press the pedal further than you should be able to or even all the way down to the floor. The car may take longer to stop as well. This usually means that there is a problem with the hydraulic brake system. The 2 most common causes for this are a leak in the brake line and air in the system. Investigate further to locate the issue. Don't drive the car with a squishy brake pedal. This is an urgent problem. If you suddenly notice your brake pedal go soft while you're driving, pull over immediately. This could indicate a ruptured brake line or similar failure of the brake system. Open the hood and check the fluid level. First check if you have enough brake fluid in the system. Open your hood and find the master cylinder reservoir, which is where the brake fluid is stored. This is a white tank on top of a metal tube, usually located towards the back of the engine bay on the driver's side. Open the cap and see if the brake fluid reaches the fill line. Park your car on a level surface to get an accurate brake level reading. If you can't find the master cylinder, check your car owner's manual for a diagram. If your car was recently running, parts under the hood will be hot. Don't touch anything except the master cylinder to avoid burns. Refill the brake fluid if its level is low. If your brake fluid level is below the fill line, add new fluid. Most cars use DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. Fill the master cylinder reservoir up to the fill line and replace the cap. If you aren't sure what type of brake fluid your car uses, consult your owner's manual. Pump the brakes with the car off. Get into the driver's seat and start pumping your brakes to see if there is any improvement. If they feel better, the problem was probably low brake fluid. But continue searching to find the cause of the low fluid. Pumping the brakes pushes fluid into the hydraulic system and reveals any potential leaks. You could turn the car on for this step, but this causes the liquid to expand. If you have a leak, liquid may spill out quickly. Check the brake lines for any leaking fluid. If you have a leak in your brake lines, fluid will seep out when you press the brakes. After pumping the brakes a few times, start searching for leaks. Brake fluid is light gold in color. If you see liquid like this under your hood, around or under your car, or in the car, it indicates a brake leak. First look under the hood. Check the housing around the master cylinder for leaking fluid. Follow the brake line out of the master cylinder and into the hood of the car. Do a visual check for any fluid coming out. Then check for drips or pools underneath the car. Look especially around the insides of the tires. Fluid sometimes runs down the tires if there's a leak. Also look inside the car, just behind the brake pedal. Sometimes fluid leaks here. Have the car fixed immediately if you have a brake fluid leak. If you see brake fluid leaking, this is a serious problem that has to be fixed immediately. If you know how, fix the leak yourself. Otherwise, get the car to a mechanic as soon as possible. If the leak is coming from the master cylinder, replace it promptly. Do not drive a car with a brake fluid leak to a mechanic. You could lose your brakes completely on the way. Call a tow truck instead. Avoid driving the car at all until the leak is fixed. Bleed the brake system if the pedal is soft and there is no leak. If you don't find a brake fluid leak, then there is probably air in the brake system. It also inhibits brake performance. Bleed air out of the system to improve your performance. The bleeding process includes pumping the brakes, jacking the car up, and releasing the bleed valve on each tire's brakes. Follow each step carefully to complete the procedure. The tires need to be bled in a specific order. Check your owner's manual for the correct bleeding order. Check your vacuum booster if the brake pedal feels hard. The vacuum booster is another component of the brake system that's housed under the hood. A faulty or malfunctioning booster is the primary cause of a hard break pedal. If you feel like you can't push your pedal down very far or the pedal feels too stiff, the vacuum booster is probably behind it. Test the pedal out to see if the booster is working. Pump the brakes a few times with the engine off. Get into the driver's seat and don't turn the car on. Pump the brake pedal 5-10 times. You'll notice the pedal start stiffening up. Keep pressing until you can't push the pedal down much anymore. Don't force the brake pedal down. Press it normally. When you can't press it down with normal pressure anymore, then this step is complete. Start the engine while holding the brake down to see if it moves. When you can't move the pedal anymore, press down on it with normal pressure. Then start the car while pressing down. If the pedal releases and pulls back down, then the vacuum booster is working normally. If not, then the booster probably needs to be replaced. Replace the brake vacuum booster if it isn’t working properly. If the pedal doesn't loosen up after you start the car, then the brake booster is failing. If you know how to, replace the booster yourself. Get a replacement from an auto parts store, remove the old booster, and install the new one. Otherwise, bring your car to a mechanic to have the booster replaced professionally. In most cars, the master cylinder blocks the vacuum booster. Remove this first. Go inside your car and tilt your steeling wheel all the way up and remove the car's knee blocker. Reach inside and detach the clip connecting your brake pedal to the vacuum booster. Unscrew the 4 bolts holding the booster down from inside the car, then go back under the hood and remove the hoses connected to the booster. Slowly slide it out of position. Slide the new booster in and hook the hoses into it. Then go inside the car, tighten the nuts, and reconnect the brake pedal. Put the steering wheel and knee blocker back into position. Don't try to drive the car until the booster is fixed. Call a tow truck to bring it to the mechanic. Replace the brake shoes if your drum brakes are screeching. Brake shoes are similar to brake pads, except shoes are on drum-style brakes. The signs that shoes need replacing are the same as when pads need replacing. Usually the shoes make a screeching, metallic sound to indicate they're worn down. Take the car to a mechanic to have the shoes replaced, or do it yourself if you know how. Worn-out brake shoes may also pull the car to one side when you press the pedal down. Get new brake calipers if your brake pads show uneven wear. If your brake pads are all worn-down on one side but look new on the other, then the likely culprit is your caliper. An old caliper leans to the side and puts uneven pressure on the pads. Eventually, this reduces the brake effectiveness. If you see uneven wear on your brake pads, have your calipers replaced. Fluid sometimes leaks from worn-out calipers as well. This could cause a brake fluid leak. Replacing brake calipers is a big job. If you don't think you have enough skill to do it yourself, let a professional do the job. Install new brake rotors if your car wobbles while it's stopping. The brake rotors are the areas that pads press against. When the rotor is worn-out, its shape warps and the pads press down unevenly. This results in shaking and wobbling when you press the pedal down. If you've noticed the problem, you may need new rotors. If the rotors are bad, the car will shake at any speed when you hit the brakes. The shaking will also happen consistently when you hit the brakes. If it only happened once, you may have been on uneven ground.	Drive slowly to see if the screeching goes away. Inspect the brake pads if the sound continues after the car warms up. Replace your rear brakes if the pads squeal when you apply the e-brake. Install new brake pads to stop the screeching. Check your brake fluid if the pedal feels squishy. Open the hood and check the fluid level. Refill the brake fluid if its level is low. Pump the brakes with the car off. Check the brake lines for any leaking fluid. Have the car fixed immediately if you have a brake fluid leak. Bleed the brake system if the pedal is soft and there is no leak. Check your vacuum booster if the brake pedal feels hard. Pump the brakes a few times with the engine off. Start the engine while holding the brake down to see if it moves. Replace the brake vacuum booster if it isn’t working properly. Replace the brake shoes if your drum brakes are screeching. Get new brake calipers if your brake pads show uneven wear. Install new brake rotors if your car wobbles while it's stopping.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Chinese-Brown-Sauce	How to Make Chinese Brown Sauce	To make Chinese brown sauce, combine 4 tablespoons of soy sauce, 3 tablespoons of sugar, 1 tablespoon of ginger, 1 1/2 cups of broth, and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch in a mixing bowl. Next, add a tablespoon of oil to a wok and position the wok over medium heat. Then, stir fry 1-3 cloves of garlic for 10-15 seconds before whisking in the soy sauce mixture. Finally, let the mixture come to a boil, add your favorite meat or veggies, and continue cooking the sauce for 5-10 minutes until it thickens.	Gather the ingredients and equipment you need for making Chinese brown sauce. Combine 4 tbs. (59.1 ml) of soy sauce, 3 tbs. (44.4 ml)of white or brown sugar, 1 tbs. (14.8 ml) of ginger, 1 1/2 cups (354.9ml) of your choice of broth and 1 tbs. (14.8 ml)of cornstarch in a mixing bowl. Stir the ingredients together thoroughly with a spoon. Set the mixture aside while you prepare the remaining Chinese brown sauce ingredients. Put about 1 tsp. (4.9 ml) of oil in a wok and begin to cook it on medium heat. Add 1 to 3 cloves of garlic depending on your preference, and stir fry for about 10 to 15 seconds. Whisk the mixture as it cooks so no lumps form in your Chinese brown sauce. Stir in the mixture that you had set aside and let it cook until it boils. Add meat or vegetables to your Chinese brown sauce and continue cooking for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat once it reaches the desired thickness and serve. Finished.	Gather the ingredients and equipment you need for making Chinese brown sauce. Combine 4 tbs. Stir the ingredients together thoroughly with a spoon. Set the mixture aside while you prepare the remaining Chinese brown sauce ingredients. Put about 1 tsp. Add 1 to 3 cloves of garlic depending on your preference, and stir fry for about 10 to 15 seconds. Whisk the mixture as it cooks so no lumps form in your Chinese brown sauce. Stir in the mixture that you had set aside and let it cook until it boils. Add meat or vegetables to your Chinese brown sauce and continue cooking for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat once it reaches the desired thickness and serve. Finished.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-Dog-Hiccups	How to Get Rid of Dog Hiccups	To get rid of dog hiccups, place your dog in a comfortable spot and pet it slowly until the dog is relaxed because excitement can sometimes cause hiccups. If your dog eats its food or drinks water very quickly, it might be taking in a lot of air when it eats. Try using a bowl with protruding bumps in the bottom to slow its eating down, or placing a clean rock or tennis ball in the bowl so the dog has to move it to eat. Many dogs get hiccups on occasion due to excitement or eating too quickly, but if your dog experiences hiccups frequently, check with your vet to make sure its vaccinations are up to date.	Relax your dog. Just as with hiccups in humans, there is no clear way to stop hiccups in dogs. However, some people swear by total relaxation as a way to eliminate hiccups. Put your dog in a comfortable spot and pet it repeatedly until it is calm. Perhaps if it is relaxed enough the hiccups will end. Slow your dog's eating and drinking down. While the underlying cause of hiccups is unknown, some argue that eating quickly, and thus taking in an excessive amount of air when you eat, can increase the likelihood of hiccups. If your dog has a tendency to eat too fast, you can purchase dog feeders designed to slow your dog's eating. There are special dog dishes that make your dog pick up their food one piece of kibble at a time. For example, the “green egg” design with solid plastic flat finger like projections is made specifically to slow a dog's eating down. If your dog drinks too fast, dishes have been designed with plastic projections that force the dog to lap their water slowly. Consider using a DIY solution. Find a large rock (baseball sized or larger) that you can scrub clean and place it in the center of your dog's dish to slow the dog's eating or drinking. Only do this if your dog won't take the rock out and play with it, as rocks can damage a dog's teeth. Accept that hiccuping occasionally is normal. For the most part, some hiccuping sessions in dogs are unavoidable. Just remember that the hiccups will eventually run their course without causing any harm to your dog. Hiccups are especially prevalent in puppies. It is perfectly normal for your puppy to hiccup quite a bit. Make sure your dog’s vaccinations are up to date. If you are worried about your dog's lung health, then get the dog checked out by a veterinarian. This way any respiratory illnesses, such as kennel cough or dog influenza, won't be exacerbated by the hiccuping sessions. Learn about what is happening when we hiccup. Hiccups occur when the diaphragm, a large muscle that is central to breathing, is irritated and starts uncontrollable spasming. These spasms make the dog take a breath in at the same time as the glottis (the opening above the vocal cords) is closing. This stops the inflow of air and a hiccup occurs. Differentiate between hiccups and reverse hiccups (or sometimes called reverse sneezing). Reverse hiccups are generally caused by an irritation to the throat or the sinuses. The dog takes a number of loud, involuntary breaths to clear the irritation or the sinus passages and it sounds like the air intake that happens at the beginning of a normal hiccup. You may want to get your dog's sinuses looked at by a veterinary professional to rule out a medical condition, such as a sinus infection or a tumor, as the cause. Accept that we don't really know why hiccups happen. Some people believe that hiccups are caused by air being swallowed by the dog when it eats or drinks too fast. In addition, it is thought that becoming overly excited, tired or stressed can also cause hiccups. Whatever the cause, hiccups are a natural bodily function that is not a problem under normal circumstances. Reverse hiccups can be caused by minor tickles or irritants to the throat or sinuses or by infections or diseases of the sinuses or upper respiratory tract.	Relax your dog. Slow your dog's eating and drinking down. Accept that hiccuping occasionally is normal. Make sure your dog’s vaccinations are up to date. Learn about what is happening when we hiccup. Differentiate between hiccups and reverse hiccups (or sometimes called reverse sneezing). Accept that we don't really know why hiccups happen.
https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Grapes-from-Seeds	How to Grow Grapes from Seeds	To grow grapes from seeds, start by soaking the seeds in water for 24 hours. Then, put them in a plastic bag with damp paper towels and leave them in the refrigerator for 3 months. In the early spring, plant the seeds in small pots and give them up to 8 weeks to sprout. Once the seedlings are 12 inches tall, plant them in a well-drained spot that gets 8 hours of sun daily. Two weeks after planting outside, add a small amount of 10-10-10 fertilizer to keep the plants healthy and help them grow.	Choose the right variety. There are thousands of grape varieties in the world. For the greatest success in growing grapes, choose the variety that will work best for you. Do some research on grape varieties, while keeping the following in mind: Your reasons for growing grapes. You may want to eat the fruit, make jam , make wine , or just add the beauty of grapevines to your yard. Find out which varieties are best for your intended purpose. Your climate conditions. Different varieties of grapes are better suited to certain geographic areas and climate conditions. Learn about grapes that are known to perform well in your area. Natural variation among grapes grown from seed. There are some genetic differences even among grapes of the same type, so the grapes you grow may not turn out exactly the way you expect. Go into your project with an open mind, and be prepared to experiment. Obtain the grape seeds. Once you identify the variety of grapes you want to grow, get your seeds. You can get them from grapes you've purchased, from a nursery, from your yard's wild grapevines (in some areas), or from another gardener. Ensure the seeds are viable. Examine the seeds to make sure they are healthy and in good condition. Squeeze the seed gently between two fingers. A healthy seed is firm to the touch. Look at the seed's color. In a healthy grape seed, you will be able to see a pale gray or white endosperm under the seed coat. Put them in water. Healthy, viable seeds will sink when placed in water. Discard any seeds that float. Prepare the seeds. Take the viable seeds and wash them thoroughly to remove any pulp or other matter. Soak them in a small amount of distilled water for up to 24 hours. Stratify your seeds. Many seeds require a period of cold, moist conditions to begin the germination process. In nature, this is achieved when seeds sit in the ground over the winter. You can mimic these conditions through the process of stratification. For grape seeds, the best time to begin stratification is in December (the northern hemisphere winter). Prepare a bed for your seeds. Fill an airtight bag or other capsule with a soft medium like wet paper towels or sand, vermiculite or peat moss that has been dampened. Peat moss is the best choice for grape seeds because its anti-fungal properties will help eliminate seed-damaging mold. Tuck the seeds into the bed. Cover them with about 1/2" (1.25 cm) of growing medium. Refrigerate the seeds. The ideal temperature for stratification is a steady 35-40 ºF (1-3 ºC), so the refrigerator is a good place for this process. Keep the seeds refrigerated for two to three months. Do not allow them to freeze. Plant your seeds. In early spring, remove the seeds from the refrigerator and plant them in pots filled with good soil. Plant seeds individually in small pots, or in larger pots with at least 1 1/2" (3.8 cm) between them. Make sure your seeds stay warm enough. To properly germinate, the seeds need daytime temperatures of at least 70ºF (20ºC) and nighttime temperatures around 60ºF (15ºC). Use a greenhouse or warming mats to keep your seeds at the correct temperature. Keep the soil moist but not too wet. Mist the surface with a fine spray of water when it starts to look dry. Check for growth. Grape seeds typically take between 2-8 weeks to sprout. Transplant your seedlings. When your seedlings have grown to about 3" (8 cm), transplant them to 4" (10 cm) pots. For the healthiest plants, keep your seedlings indoors or in a greenhouse until they have reached a height of 12" (30 cm), have a good network of roots and have at least 5-6 leaves. Select a good location for your grapevines. To thrive, grapevines need the right amount of sun, proper drainage and a form of support. Choose a sunny spot. Grapes need 7-8 hours of full sun daily for best results. Make sure you have plenty of space. Space your plants about 8' (2.5 m) apart to allow for growth. Prepare your soil before planting. Grapes require well drained soil. If you have clay or other poorly drained soil, augment it with decomposed compost, sand or other soil amendments to increase drainage. Alternatively, use a raised bed filled with a good sandy loam mixed with compost. Check the pH of your soil before planting your grapes. Different types of grapes thrive best with different soil pH levels (5.5-6.0 for natives, 6.0-6.5 for hybrids, and 6.5-7.0 for vinifera), so it is best to either plant in an area with a pH level in the right range, or adjust your soil's pH before planting. If you are planning to grow grapes for wine, be aware that different types of soil (e.g., sandy, silty, rich in limestone, or rich in clay) will affect the flavor of the wine. Fertilize your grapes after planting. Two weeks after planting, add a small amount of 10-10-10 fertilizer to the soil around the base of your young plants. Repeat this process once per year every spring after that. Properly support your grapes. Grapevines need a trellis or arbor for proper support. The first year in the vineyard (2 years after starting from seed), when your plants are still small, stakes will be sufficient to support them and keep them off the ground. As they grow, you will need to train them to the trellis or arbor. Tie the tip of the shoots to the wire, and allow it to grow along the wire. Take proper care of your plants, and prepare to wait. Grapevines take up to three years to start producing fruit. During that time, proper care and training of your plants is essential for the best fruit yield. Year One: Watch for growth. Choose the strongest three shoots on the plant and allow those to grow. Pinch off all others. The three remaining shoots will grow stronger and more vigorous. Year Two: Fertilize using a balance fertilizer. Remove flower clusters as they emerge; allowing the vine to fruit this early will deplete its energy. Remove any buds or shoots that grow below the three main ones you selected the prior year. Prune properly. Loosely tie long shoots to the arbor or trellis. Year Three: Continue fertilizing and removing low buds and shoots. During this year, you can allow a few flower clusters to remain and produce a small crop of grapes. Year Four and Later: Continue fertilizing and pruning. This year and thereafter, you can let all the flower clusters fruit if you wish. As you prune, be aware that grapes will fruit on one-year-old wood (i.e., wood that grew during the previous season).	Choose the right variety. Obtain the grape seeds. Ensure the seeds are viable. Prepare the seeds. Stratify your seeds. Plant your seeds. Transplant your seedlings. Select a good location for your grapevines. Prepare your soil before planting. Fertilize your grapes after planting. Properly support your grapes. Take proper care of your plants, and prepare to wait.
https://www.wikihow.com/Do-Well-in-Tests-and-Exams	How to Do Well in Tests and Exams	Doing well in tests and exams will be much easier if you study beforehand and take your time during the test. Aim to review each major topic for at least 20 minutes per day during the week before the exam. If you're struggling to find time to study, try making flashcards with the main ideas on the front and descriptions of those ideas on the back. That way, you can take them with you wherever you go. You should also listen to what the teacher says in class, since they may give you hints about what will be in the test. When the exam begins, take a few deep breaths to stay calm and focused. Then, read through the questions carefully before trying to answer them to make sure you understand what's being asked.	Revise properly. This means setting up a revision timetable up to days, weeks or even months before the exam or test. The amount of revision time needed will depend on how big the exam or test is. You should revise the main topics for at least 20 minutes a day the week before the exam. Listen to what the teacher is saying. He or she might make it very clear what to expect in the test. Study in sections. Take the material you are provided with, including any revision notes and flashcards, and divide the material into sections. A good way to revise is to make a knowledge organizer with the topics that you need on it. If you have learning outcomes, then try to make sure that you know all of them. Study by understanding key points. Take a practice test. Look at where you went wrong in the practice tests. Focus most on revising those sections. Take a practice test again (with some different questions if possible). Continue until you return really good results. Continue to take multiple practice tests. Do this regularly, until your actual exam or test. Deactivate your social media while revising. It will only serve to distract you. Eat and sleep well. If you are too tired then you will forget everything you studied and if you don't eat well your brain will not operate smoothly. Do not cram right before a test. Instead, say the formulas in your mind or the properties and its names instead of just reading the textbook all over again. Rereading the textbook right before won't do much good, but a bit of last minute refreshing on what you memorize can be helpful. Stay calm. Try to relax and take a couple of deep breaths, if necessary. Think about your answers. Make sure it is the right answer. If you are not sure of an answer, skip it and come back to it. Chances are it might be addressed in a different question, so keep your eyes open for more clues on the same topic as you complete the rest of the test. Don't listen to what others say after the exam or test. If you think what you have written is right, do not stress if others wrote something else. Get on with your next sets of revisions, knowing that you did your best. Only your actual test results will confirm how well you have done. Make sure to review your test results patiently. This will help you to see what you got right, and where you were incorrect, to help you to improve. Do this when in a calm state so silly mistakes can be fixed. Also, try and always be motivated as it will help you do better.	Revise properly. Listen to what the teacher is saying. Study in sections. Take a practice test. Look at where you went wrong in the practice tests. Take a practice test again (with some different questions if possible). Continue to take multiple practice tests. Deactivate your social media while revising. Eat and sleep well. Do not cram right before a test. Stay calm. Think about your answers. Don't listen to what others say after the exam or test. Make sure to review your test results patiently.
https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Tuberose	How to Grow Tuberose	Tuberose is a fragrant flower native to Mexico that grows best in cool tropical regions. It's best to plant it in the early spring after the last frost. It can grow indoors or outdoors, as long as it gets 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day. When you first plant your tuberose, only water it when the soil gets completely dry. Once it's grown a few inches, water it once a week to keep the soil damp. You'll also want to fertilize it every 6 weeks. When it starts to flower, you may need to provide a stick for it to climb, since their flowers can be rather heavy.	Decide where and when to plant. Tuberose bulbs are best planted in early spring after the last frost, but this requires a warm climate with a growing season at least 4 months long, and a USDA hardiness zone of 8, 9, or 10. If you have a shorter growing season, start the tuberose indoors in early spring and transfer once night temperatures outdoors are above 60ºF (15.5ºC). If you live in zone 7 or below, you will need to bring tuberose indoors for the winter. Zones 8-10 correspond to a minimum winter temperature between 10ºF (-12.2ºC) and 35ºF (1.7ºC). Zone 7 has a minimum winter temperature of 0ºF (-17.8ºC). Prepare the soil. Tuberose needs well draining, highly nutritious soil. To improve your garden soil, mix in organic material such as peat moss, compost , or old, decomposing manure. Pile this mixture up 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) above the original soil surface to raise it above pooling water. Tuberose prefers a soil pH between 6.5 to 7, but are fairly adaptable and should do fine in environments with pH as low as 5.5. You may use a large, well draining pot instead of a raised bed. Select a sunny location. Plant in a location that gets full sun for about 6-8 hours during the day. Tuberose is native to hot climates, and will only need to be moved to bright partial shade if it shows signs of withering or drying before the end of the growing season. Plant in a hole 2 in (5cm) deep. If you have purchased a cluster of bulbs, plant the entire cluster. Place bulbs or clusters of bulbs about 6-8 inches (15-20cm) apart to allow for growth. Water generously after planting. Give the tuberose bulb a thorough watering to settle the soil around the plant. Move on to next section to learn how to care for the bulbs and growing plants. Growth should be visible within a few weeks. Water sparingly until plants emerge. Keep the soil fairly dry, but water before it dries out fully. Within a few weeks, green tips should emerge, and root systems will develop that allow the plant to handle more water. Water moderately during the growing season. As tuberose grows, provide roughly 1–1.5 in. (2.5–3.75 cm) of water once a week. Tuberose prefers this to more frequent watering in smaller amounts. Reduce watering if rain occurs, so the tuberose only receives a total of approximately 1–1.5 in. (2.5–3.75 cm) of water each week. Take care not to over water, as tuberose rots easily (the reason you really need well-draining soil). Apply a balanced fertilizer. An 8-8-8 fertilizer, with equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, is recommended for tuberose. Apply solid fertilizer around the soil of the plant once every 6 weeks, or apply liquid fertilizer according to packaging instructions. Feel free to cut flowers to arrange indoors. The flowers typically emerge about 90-120 days after planting, usually in the late summer or early autumn. Removal of the flowers for house display will not harm the plant, so enjoy bringing the scent into your home. If the weather is turning cold and the plant has not yet flowers, transplant the tuberose to a large pot, and bring it to a warm location indoors. Remember, the pot must be well-draining, with a hole in the base and something beneath it to catch the water. Keep in mind that the tuberose flowers are very fragrant. They will be at their peak of fragrance during the evening hours. Support the flowers if needed. The flowers will start to weigh the branches down when they start to bloom, so you may want to add some form of support. Place a trellis in the ground next to the plant or use a cage to help support the plant from all sides. Prune to encourage growth. Even if you don't bring flowers indoors, remove the withered flowers to encourage new growth. Do not remove any leaves until they are completely yellow. Stop watering when the flowers and leaves die. Once the foliage is yellow or brown, the plant is done growing for the year. Move on to the next section if you expect a cold winter, or simply leave it in the ground if you are located in USDA hardiness zones 8 or higher, and expect a typical winter. Do not apply any fertilizer while the plant is not growing. Consider whether you need to move the plant indoors. If you are located in a USDA hardiness zone numbered 8 or higher, the tuberose will probably be fine if left in the ground year round. In zone 7, you may be able to insulate the soil with a thick layer of mulch, and remove it in spring. In any other zone, move the tuberose bulbs indoors. Zone 8 corresponds with a minimum winter temperature of 10ºF (-12.2ºC). Zone 7 has a minimum winter temperature of 0ºF (-17.8ºC). Move the plants before the first frost. The tuberose may survive one light frost, but it's best not to risk it. The first frost may come in autumn or winter, depending on your climate. Cut back the foliage. Remove yellow leaves and cut the stem down to 4–6 inches (10–15cm) above the soil. Use a clean knife, preferably sterilized with rubbing alcohol to minimize chance of infection. Dig out the bulbs carefully. Dig out a large clump of soil with the bulb inside, then brush off the soil to reveal the bulb. Dig slowly and carefully to avoid breaking the roots. Wait for them to dry. Lay the bulbs on a screen in the sun for 24 hours to dry them out. If there is no sun, leave them in a dry area for several days instead. Do not attempt to speed this up by heating them. Pack the bulbs in soft material. Use a cardboard box, tray, or any other container that can hold peat moss, sawdust, or vermiculite. Cover the tuberose with the material and store at about 50ºF (10ºC). Adjust moisture if necessary. In most cases, the tuberose can be left alone the entire winter. However, if you notice the bulbs shriveling, lightly moisten the packing material once or twice during the winter. On the other hand, if roots appear, move to a dry location. Plant in spring. Tuberose can be planted in the spring after being kept overwinter, and the new bulbs around the original will flower as normal. After several years of growth, a cluster may be too large for adequate flower growth. Separate the smaller bulbs and plant separately, but be aware that some newly separated bulbs may not grow in the first year. Add soil and rhizomes to a pot. Get a one gallon pot that has drainage holes on the bottom of it. Fill the pot halfway full with moist potting soil. Then, set the rhizomes on top of soil and add enough soil until the rhizomes are about three inches below the rim of the pot. Add about two more inches of soil after that to top it off. Water the tuberose. Water the soil until water runs out of the bottom of the pot. After that, you will only need to water it when the top ½ inch of soil is dry Check it once every few days to see when it needs to be watered. It is also a good idea to fill the tray that goes under the pot with gravel and pour water over it. Then, place the pot on top of the gravel. This will help to ensure that the plant gets plenty of humidity. Place the potted tuberose in a warm, sunny location. It is important to place the tuberose somewhere that it will get sun exposure all day long and where it will warm. Try to keep your home at a constant temperature of 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Check around your house to find the ideal location. Fertilize the tuberose. Dilute ½ teaspoon of soluble fertilizer—preferably a 5-10-10 mixture—in one gallon of water. Then, irrigate the plant with this solution every two weeks once the plant is actively growing. Remove the rhizomes in the fall. In the fall, you will need to remove the rhizomes from the pot. Break the smaller rhizomes off the larger ones, and then throw out the large one. Store the small ones in a cool, dark spot until spring, so that you can plant them again.	Decide where and when to plant. Prepare the soil. Select a sunny location. Plant in a hole 2 in (5cm) deep. Water generously after planting. Water sparingly until plants emerge. Water moderately during the growing season. Apply a balanced fertilizer. Feel free to cut flowers to arrange indoors. Support the flowers if needed. Prune to encourage growth. Stop watering when the flowers and leaves die. Consider whether you need to move the plant indoors. Move the plants before the first frost. Cut back the foliage. Dig out the bulbs carefully. Wait for them to dry. Pack the bulbs in soft material. Adjust moisture if necessary. Plant in spring. Add soil and rhizomes to a pot. Water the tuberose. Place the potted tuberose in a warm, sunny location. Fertilize the tuberose. Remove the rhizomes in the fall.
https://www.wikihow.com/Describe-a-Kiss	How to Describe a Kiss	To describe a kiss, replace excess adjectives with descriptions of what the characters are feeling through all five of their senses. That could include things like the background noise of a party, the smell of the other person's perfume, or the softness of the other person's skin. Use body language to build on that by showing how the characters are reacting to the kiss. To accomplish that easily, describe how they are moving specific parts of their body, like what they are doing with their hands or whether they pull away.	Choose who is going to be kissing whom. Maybe you have two characters that have been circling each other for a long period of time, or two characters who suddenly realize their feelings for each other. Regardless, it's important to isolate which two characters in your story are going to pucker up so you can shift the point of view of the story to them. Keep in mind you don't necessarily have to have two people kissing each other, as it could be multiple characters kissing each other or one person kissing themselves in the mirror. In any event, it's a good idea to identify the characters in the kissing scene. Determine where the kiss is going to take place. The setting for the kiss is important because the setting will inform the mood of the kiss. In writing, mood is a literary element that evokes certain feelings or vibes in your audience through words and descriptions. Think of it as the atmosphere your characters are moving around in or kissing in. By figuring out the setting of the kiss, you can create a lot of implied meaning. The setting will help you establish a certain mood or atmosphere, and you can show your audience a certain mood, as opposed to telling them. For example, a kiss in a dark empty parking lot has a completely different mood or atmosphere than a kiss at a party. One setting implies a more intimate mood and one setting implies a more exposed or open mood. Think about how the kiss is going to take place. Are your characters going to be alone or surrounded by others? Is one character going to be more aggressive or eager for a kiss in the scene? Will both characters know the kiss is coming or be completely surprised by it? This is a good moment to also think about how your characters are going to be positioned in the scene. Maybe one person is going to be standing beside someone else in a room. Or maybe both characters are going to be sitting side by side. Think about the physical presence of your characters and how they are going to move around in the kissing scene. Consider why the kiss is taking place. This is really a chance for you to think about the motivations of your characters and why they would end up kissing each other. If they hate each other throughout the story but suddenly end up in a deep, sensual kiss, this may not be very believable for the reader. Re-evaluate how and why you have reached this point in the story where the characters are in a kissing scene. Did you establish their relationship well in the early stages of the story, so a kiss between them makes sense? And if you are going for the element of surprise, ask yourself if you created enough character details so the kiss will throw readers off guard but will not throw them out of the story. Build on established conflicts between the characters. While it may be tempting to just throw two characters together into a locked room or dark cave, where they will eventually resort to a kiss, a more effective technique is to use past conflicts or ongoing conflicts between the characters to create a convincing build up to the kiss. This could be a past love that reappears in a character's life or a previous scene where one character sees another character do something that they find attractive or compelling. Remember, a kiss is usually an indication of desire, so make sure your characters desire each other, if only for a moment, to make the kiss seem believable. Don't neglect all the hard work you've put into building up your characters. Instead, use characterization to your advantage and build off of previous conflicts or scenes to create build up. Put both characters within close proximity of each other. Now that you've established how a past conflict has led both characters to consider kissing each other, it's important to place both characters within kissing distance. You can do this by having two characters accidentally bump into each other, or have one character plan to run into another character. There are many ways you can move your characters physically so they are in a setting and mood that feels appropriate for a kiss, but the point is to get them close to each other. Focus on the body movements of your characters. A quick, fast move towards each other will likely indicate intense longing or desire, and a slower, more labored move towards each other will likely indicate a more unsteady or unsure passion between the characters. Have one character notice something new or interesting about another character. Because you now have your characters within kissing distance, they have the opportunity to notice small details on the person's face or neck. Your characters are seeing each other in a new, intimate way, so reflect this by including physical descriptions of something not noticed before. For example, your character could notice the other character has a speck of green in their eyes, a freckle on their nose, or a small birthmark on their neck. Use the five senses. Rather than simply throw out a whole bunch of adjectives to describe the kiss, focus instead on how the kiss is affecting your character's sense of sight, sound, smell, touch, and taste. This will make the descriptions feel specific to your character's point of view and ensure you are hitting all the sensual aspects of the kiss. Sight is probably one of the easiest senses to describe; simply write what the character is seeing during the kiss. Sound could mean background noise like music at a party or the character's loud, excited heartbeats. Depending on the duration of the kiss, you could also include soft moans or other noises of pleasure (or disgust), as appropriate to your character. Smell could be what your character smells in the air or on the other person as they kiss them, such as perfume, cologne, or a natural scent. Touch is a very important aspect to describing a kiss. Focus on tactile details like how the character's skin feels and how their lips feel. Taste can be broad or very specific when describing a kiss. Keep in mind describing a kiss as sweet implies it was enjoyable and describing a kiss as sour or bitter implies it may not have been enjoyable at all. Use body language. Think about how your characters are moving their bodies as they kiss. Body language will also let your audience know how the characters are responding emotionally to the kiss. A physical reaction like pulling or pushing away from the kiss will imply different emotion than a physical reaction like falling or relenting to the kiss. The easiest way to use body language in the scene is to focus on the movements of specific body parts: Lips: perhaps the most important physical detail in a kissing scene, focus on the texture of the character's lips or how they feel against another character's lips. Tongue: another very important physical detail in a kissing scene that can indicate aggressive desire (lots of tongue) or unsure, gentle desire (no tongue). Think about what type of kiss you're trying to convey and include or do not include tongue descriptions accordingly. Heads: most people tilt their head to one side when they kiss. Of course, if you're going for a more awkward kiss, it may be beneficial to have a moment of bumping foreheads. Eyes: are your characters' eyes opened or closed? Open eyes usually indicates a surprised reaction or a detached reaction. Consider the emotions of your characters and decide from there. Noses: keep in mind that though your characters may tilt their heads when they kiss, their noses will likely still brush against each other or against the side of their faces. Hands and arms: during the kiss, a character's hands could be up in the air (usually indicating an unwelcome or surprised kiss) or wrapped around the character's body (usually an indication of an enjoyable kiss). They could also run their fingers through a character's hair, hold the back of their head, rub their lower back, etc. Discuss how the kiss ends. Your characters can't lock lips forever! Somehow, one character or both characters have to pull away from each other, or be interrupted and be forced to pull away from each other. If the kiss happens early in your story, you will likely need another conflict to arise to complicate the kiss and create enough tension to keep your audience interested. If the kiss happens towards the end of your story, think about how your characters might feel after the kiss and how the kiss affects their emotions towards the other character.	Choose who is going to be kissing whom. Determine where the kiss is going to take place. Think about how the kiss is going to take place. Consider why the kiss is taking place. Build on established conflicts between the characters. Put both characters within close proximity of each other. Have one character notice something new or interesting about another character. Use the five senses. Use body language. Discuss how the kiss ends.
https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-Dogs-for-Coats	How to Measure Dogs for Coats	To measure your dog for a coat, start by measuring the circumference of its rib cage at the widest part of its chest using a measuring tape to get its girth. Then, with your dog standing upright, measure the distance between the base of its neck and the beginning of its tail to get its length. Once you have both your dog's girth and length, write down the measurements and use them when you're shopping for dog coats.	Gather your supplies. Since you'll be measuring the dog's girth and length, you'll need a measuring tape, pencil, and paper. It may also help to have someone assist you in holding the dog steady while you take the measurements. Have plenty of treats available that you can use to reward your dog and encourage him to hold still. Locate where to measure your dog's girth. Get your dog to stand up so that you can measure the circumference around his ribcage (the girth). Try to measure the widest part of the dog's chest, which is generally located just behind the points of the elbows. Ask a friend to feed your dog treats by holding the treat just above your dog's nose. This will get your dog standing as tall as possible. Measure your dog's girth. Hold one end of the measuring tape on your dog's spine, just behind his shoulders. Roll the free end of the tape down along his side until it reaches the bottom of the widest point of the ribcage. Wrap the tape underneath the rib cage and back over the opposite side of the body to join the tape where you started. Make sure the tape is snug, but not tight against the skin. The widest point of the rib cage is just behind the front legs behind the points of the elbows. This is equivalent to the part of the elbow a person leans on, when resting her elbows on a desk. Write down the measurement. Once you've wrapped the measuring tape accurately around your dog's girth, write down the final measurement. Use the measurement you see at the point where the free end of the measuring tape touches the beginning edge. Locate where to measure your dog's length. Get your dog to stand upright in order to measure the length of your dog's body between the base of the neck and beginning of the tail. Your friend may want to feed treats to your dog to encourage him to stand upright. Measure your dog's length. Place the beginning edge of the measuring tape at the base of the neck, where it joins the shoulders (the nape of the neck). Extend the free end of the measuring tape along the length of the spine until it reaches the base of the tail. If you are not certain where this is, it helps to visualise where you want the coat to sit around the dog's neck and measure from that point to the base of the tail, since this is the length of coat you wish to purchase. Write down the measurement. Once you've extended the measuring tape across your dog's spine, use the number you see where the free end of the measuring tape touches the base of the tail. This is your dog's length measurement. Select the right material. You should already know why you're buying the coat: to keep your dog warm, to keep him dry, or for stylish reasons. For example, if you're looking to keep your dog warm, you might want to buy a coat made of wool and cotton or acrylic. If you're trying to keep him dry, look for a slick rainproof material that will keep the moisture away from your dog's skin. If you're getting a coat for purely fashionable reasons, remember to check for any zippers, buttons, or laces that could trip or snag your dog. Don't sacrifice your dog's safety in the name of style. Compare measurements and coat size. Once you've found a coat you like, look at the sizing guidelines on the package of the coat. You should be able to find a range of measurements that corresponds to a specific size. Check their sizes against the girth and length measurements you took of your dog. Some coats will even include sizing charts that list breeds that are typically that size. Since all dogs are individuals, the actual measurements are probably more reliable than simply going by breed. For example, if you have an unusually large border collie, then you would do better to choose a coat for a small Labrador rather than a standard sized border collie. Consider how you want the coat to fit. If your dog is between sizes, you'll need to choose a size up or down. If the coat is simply a fashion accessory, you should probably choose the smaller size, but keep the fastenings loose. But, if you want to protect your dog against the weather, choose a larger size up so you can completely fasten your dog. As a rule of thumb, if your dog is broad and chunky, such as a well-padded Staffie, then go a size up. If the dog is slender and slim, such as a whippet, then go a size down. If your dog has short legs, you might need to size down so that the coat doesn't drag on the ground. You may even need to look for coats specifically designed for long, low dogs, so that the coat clears the ground.	Gather your supplies. Locate where to measure your dog's girth. Measure your dog's girth. Write down the measurement. Locate where to measure your dog's length. Measure your dog's length. Write down the measurement. Select the right material. Compare measurements and coat size. Consider how you want the coat to fit.
https://www.wikihow.com/Buy-Seized-Cars-for-Sale	How to Buy Seized Cars for Sale	You can often buy seized cars for a heavily discounted price if you know where to find them. Look for government auctions at govsales.gov, which will give you the time and place of seized car auctions. If you'd rather avoid the pressure of an auction, search online for car repo sellers, who you can buy a car directly from. Some car magazines and local newspapers will also have adverts for seized car auctions and sales. If you're interested in an auction, make sure it's open to the public, since some auctions are only for car dealers. When buying a seized car directly, check the car for new paint, dents, or rust, which can indicate underlying problems. You should also ask for its CarFax report if the dealer has it so you can see the car's history and assess its value.	Search government auction sites. Start at the website https://www.govsales.gov. This website will tell you when an auction is taking place and its location. Other good websites include governmentauctions.org and gov-auctions.org. These are privately-run sites that contain information about government auctions. You will have to create an account to use the privately-run websites. Many offer free trials, but you will have to pay when your free trial ends. Check other websites. Search “auto auction” and look for websites that have repossessed and seized cars for sale. Not all auto auction websites will. Instead, some specialize in antiques or estate sales. At the website, you should be able to peruse inventory. Avoid websites that require you to pay money before you can inspect a vehicle. Search print publications. These magazines often list auctions and seized cars for sale. However, be aware that sometimes the cars advertised aren't the same as the cars you'll see at the auction. Your local paper should also contain information about upcoming local auctions. Call up the police. Law enforcement might let you check out their cars, so call up and ask. They usually store cars at towing yards, and the police might let you go inspect what stock they have available. Contact lenders directly. Some banks or credit unions will let you look at their file of repossessed vehicles. You'll be able to inspect a car and then make a bid for it. Lenders usually want to recoup their losses, so you can often get a good deal this way. However, you'll probably pay more than you will at an auction. Find dealers who specialize in repo sales. You can get a great discount from one of these sellers. Search online to find nearby sellers. You can buy a car without the high-pressure auction environment, which should give you more time to research the car. Nevertheless, you'll pay more than you would for a similar car at auction. Choose cars you are interested in. Bank and auction sites should have a list of cars available. Check if there's anything offered you are interested in. It's great to get a car cheap, but there's no reason to buy a sports car when what you need is a minivan. Identify the types of cars you are in the market for. Figure out why the car is being sold. The difference between these reasons could potentially tell you a little more about the car. Typical reasons include: Seized car: This means the car was taken by law enforcement for either too many traffic violations or because it was confiscated in a raid. The car was most likely maintained by the owner before being seized. The IRS and courts tend to seize cars that have a higher value and are of better quality. Repossessed car: These cars are seized by lenders who haven't been receiving payments. Since the former owner couldn't repay their loan, they probably didn't pay to maintain the car. These cars tend to be of lower quality. Previously-owned government car: These cars were owned by government agencies that no longer need them. Most agencies frequently update their cars, so they tend to be high quality. Inspect the car. You might be able to inspect the car the day of the auction or before. Try to go before. When checking the car, look for new paint, dents, or rust. Each of these could hint at underlying problems. Look under the hood if you know what to look for. If you don't, ask a friend to go with you to see if the engine is in good shape. Vehicles are shown in the same condition that they were seized. So don't be surprised if they are dirty inside. Ask for a car report. Many cars come with CarFax reports to give you the car's full history, which should include information about prior accidents and repair. If you don't get a CarFax report, you can run a report yourself using the VIN number. Visit the CarFax website. Understand what you are getting. You might be able to get a car for a great price. However, there are some downsides that you should be aware of before you bid for a car at auction. For example, most cars are sold “as is,” meaning that no warranty or guarantee is made about the car. In fact, many cars may be in terrible condition. Check if you can buy a warranty separately. You also probably can't test drive the vehicle, so you really won't know with certainty what type of car you're buying. Come up with a maximum price. Decide which vehicles you will bid on, and then come up with the absolute maximum you will bid for the car. If you're having trouble setting the price, then look at sources such as the NADA guide. Also look at eBay to see how much people are paying for auctioned vehicles. Find cars with the same make and model as the cars you want to bid on. Have payment ready. Generally, you need to have cash on hand or be preapproved for a loan in order to buy a car at auction. However, some banks will have finance options available if it is a bank auction, so call ahead to check. You might also use a credit card, which is safer to carry than cash. Register in advance. Some auctions are open only to dealers, so it's important to know in advance whether this is an auction you can actually attend. Arrive prepared. You'll need some way to get the car off the lot. Don't assume you'll be able to start it. Many cars sit on the lot for a long time before auction. You may need to bring tools, oil, antifreeze, and an air pressure gauge. You may also need to tow the car home, so check if a two truck is nearby. Some auctions might also let you pay to store the car until you can get the car off the lot. Bid sensibly. Remember not to go over your maximum for each car. It's very easy to get caught up in the excitement of an auction, so try to restrain yourself. Ask a friend to come along with you to help keep you in line. Buy your car. If your bid was the highest, congratulations—you're the new owner! You need to make a deposit immediately after winning. The deposit amount will be roughly 10% of the price. If you back out of the sale, then you'll forfeit your deposit.	Search government auction sites. Check other websites. Search print publications. Call up the police. Contact lenders directly. Find dealers who specialize in repo sales. Choose cars you are interested in. Figure out why the car is being sold. Inspect the car. Ask for a car report. Understand what you are getting. Come up with a maximum price. Have payment ready. Register in advance. Arrive prepared. Bid sensibly. Buy your car.
https://www.wikihow.com/Lose-15-Pounds-in-2-Weeks	How to Lose 15 Pounds in 2 Weeks	To lose 15 pounds in 2 weeks, try to eliminate sugar and carbohydrates, like bread and pasta, from your diet as much as you can. Instead, eat lots of lean proteins, like chicken or fish, and vegetables. Also, drink a lot of water to fill you up and improve your mood and energy levels. In addition to changing your diet, do low-impact exercise, such as walking or swimming, to burn extra calories without wearing you out.	Track what you eat with a food diary or app. To create a caloric deficit, you'll need to keep track of everything that crosses your lips. Using an app or food diary is the best way to do this. Record everything you eat in your app or food diary. Aim for a goal of 1,200 calories per day if you're a woman or 1,500 calories per day if you're a man. Try to track what you eat or drink right after you eat it so that you won't forget about it. Or, if you know what you're going to be eating in advance, put it in your tracker ahead of time. This can also help you to budget your calories and spread them evenly among your meals and snacks. Keep in mind that it doesn't matter if you follow a low-fat diet or a low-carb diet. Both approaches to weight loss are equally effective, so choose the option that works best for you. Eat 2 to 3 servings of fruits and vegetables at every meal. Fruits and vegetables are lower in calories than most other foods, and they're filling because they're high in fiber. By eating more fruits and vegetables with every meal, you'll be cutting calories and satisfying your hunger in a healthy way. Aim to fill half of your plate with fruits or vegetables at each meal. For example, you could have 2 cups of melon with your morning toast and eggs, a green salad with a bowl of minestrone soup at lunch, and 2 cups of mixed steamed vegetables with skinless chicken breast and brown rice for dinner. Include 2 to 3 daily servings of low-fat dairy. Eating low-fat dairy products as part of a reduced calorie diet has been shown to promote weight loss. Include 2 to 3 servings of low-fat milk, yogurt, or cheese in your daily diet. For example, you could have 8 fl oz (240 mL) of 1% milk with your morning bowl of cereal, have a slice of low-fat cheese on a turkey sandwich at lunch, or enjoy ½ cup (120 g) of low-fat cottage cheese with your pasta and marinara sauce for dinner. Eat spicy foods for increased metabolism. The capsaicin in spicy foods helps to rev up your metabolism, which might help you to lose weight and keep it off. Include hot peppers, salsa, and spices made from chilies to incorporate more capsaicin in your diet. For example, you could sauté a couple of jalapenos with onions as a starter for chili, add a couple of tablespoons of hot salsa to a burrito, or add a dash of cayenne pepper to season baked chicken. Swap high-calorie foods for lower calorie options. Making small changes can add up in your total daily caloric intake. If you find that many of your extra calories come from beverages, switch to water or another lower calorie option. If you often snack on junk food throughout the day, trade chips and candy for fresh fruit and veggie slices. Beverages are a major culprit of excess calories. Consider how many glasses of juice, soda, and other sweetened drinks you consume during the day. If you're drinking 24 fl oz (710 mL) in juice and soda each day, this is about 400 extra calories that you could eliminate if you switched to water. Try intermittent fasting to increase weight loss. Intermittent fasting has been shown to increase weight loss. To do an intermittent fast, schedule your meals so that they will fall within the same 8 or 10 hour window each day. Then, don't eat between the end of the window on one day and the start of the window on the next day. For example, if you make your window 7:00 am to 3:00 pm each day, you might eat breakfast at 7:00 am, lunch at 11:00 am, and dinner at 3:00 pm. Then, you wouldn't eat again until 7:00 am the following day. Move more throughout the day to burn more calories. Staying as active as possible can help you to burn more calories and lose more weight. Even small additions to your normal physical activity can add up. Increase the total amount of calories you burn each day by: Walking or riding your bike to run errands Parking further away from entrances Hopping off the bus a few blocks before your stop and walking the rest of the way Taking the stairs instead of the elevator Doing squats or jumping jacks during commercial breaks when you're watching TV Aim for 150 minutes of moderate cardiovascular exercise every week. This is the minimum recommended amount of cardiovascular exercise for general health, but getting at least this amount is important for weight loss. Choose a form of exercise that you enjoy and work it into your daily routine on most days. For example, you could go for a daily walk, run, or bike ride if you enjoy being outdoors. Or, if you prefer to exercise at the gym, try using an elliptical walker, taking an aerobics class, or swimming. Incorporate strength-training to build more muscle. Having more muscle mass helps you to burn more calories even when you're resting. Include two 30 to 45 minute strength-training sessions each week and work all of your major muscle groups during each session. These include your arms, legs, back, abdomen, buttocks, chest, and shoulders. You can lift weights to build muscle or use resistance bands or bodyweight exercises to build strength. Choose the option that works best for you. Try high-intensity interval training to torch more calories. High-intensity interval training, also known as HIIT, is a form of exercise that alternates moderate and high intensity cardiovascular exercise. By going back and forth between the different levels of intensity in your workout, you'll build endurance and burn more calories. For example, you could walk for 4 minutes, then jog for 4 minutes, then walk for 4 minutes, and so on. Keep alternating between the 2 intensity levels for a total of 30 minutes. Many gyms offer HIIT classes. Try taking one for an extra challenging workout. Limit your intake of alcoholic beverages. Alcohol adds empty calories and it also lowers your inhibitions, so you end up eating more than you normally would. Limit yourself to no more than 1 drink per day if you're a woman or 2 drinks per day if you're a man. One alcoholic drink is 12 fl oz (350 mL) of beer, 5 fl oz (150 mL) of wine, or 1.5 fl oz (44 mL) of spirits. Drink water whenever you’re thirsty. Staying well-hydrated will help you to prevent confusing thirst with hunger, which may cause you to overeat or eat when you're not actually hungry. Instead, drink water throughout the day and any time you get sweaty to keep yourself hydrated. Try carrying a reusable water bottle with you wherever you go and refill it any time it gets low. Sleep for 7 to 9 hours every night. Being well-rested can help you to make better decisions about the foods you eat and have the energy to stick with your exercise routine. Go to bed at the same time every night and wake up at the same time each day to maintain a regular schedule. Some other things you can do to promote better sleep include: Turning off electronic devices 30 minutes before you go to bed Avoiding caffeine in the afternoon and evening Keeping your bedroom cool, dark, and quiet Using your bedroom for sleep only and not working, eating, or paying bills in bed Incorporate relaxation techniques to avoid stress eating. Being overwhelmed by your life or by your desire to lose weight quickly can make you feel stressed. Stress causes some people to eat more than they normally would and this can lead to weight gain. Set aside at least 15 minutes every day to relax. Try using a relaxation technique, such as: Yoga Meditation Progressive muscle relaxation Deep breathing	Track what you eat with a food diary or app. Eat 2 to 3 servings of fruits and vegetables at every meal. Include 2 to 3 daily servings of low-fat dairy. Eat spicy foods for increased metabolism. Swap high-calorie foods for lower calorie options. Try intermittent fasting to increase weight loss. Move more throughout the day to burn more calories. Aim for 150 minutes of moderate cardiovascular exercise every week. Incorporate strength-training to build more muscle. Try high-intensity interval training to torch more calories. Limit your intake of alcoholic beverages. Drink water whenever you’re thirsty. Sleep for 7 to 9 hours every night. Incorporate relaxation techniques to avoid stress eating.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Coffee-Table	How to Make a Coffee Table	To make a coffee table, try screwing together 4 large crates, like wine, apple, or egg crates, to make a coffee table with built-in storage. Or, you can paint or stain a wooden pallet and attach it to 4 legs for an easy, simple coffee table design. If you have access to an old door or window, repurpose it as a table top for a rustic coffee table. You could also screw legs into a vintage suitcase or trunk to make a stylish coffee table with extra storage space.	Cut boards for the top. Use a table saw or hand saw to cut boards to the length you would like your coffee table to be. 32 inches (81 cm) is a good length to try, if you're not sure what size to make it. Cut four standard boards approximately two inches thick and eight inches wide, known as 2x8s, to this length to serve as the top of your table. You can also use 2x4s or other boards. Just cut enough so that the overall width of your coffee table, when the boards are laid side-by-side, will be to your liking. It is also possible to make a coffee table top from a single, wide slab of suitable wood. However, this might be harder to find at your local hardware store. Piece the top together. Put wood glue on the long, two-inch thick sides of the boards you are using for the top, and slide them together so that they form one large, flat surface. Make sure that the ends line up evenly. Use long clamps to hold them in place while the glue dries. You only have to glue the sides of the boards that are touching each other. Secure the top. Cut 2x4 boards so that you have two lengths of 32 inches (81 cm) each. Position them so that they lie across all of the boards that you glued together to make the top. Place one on each side a couple of inches from the narrower edge of the top. The narrow ends of the 2x4s should be flush with the long sides of the coffee table top. Attach them to the top using wood screws. Add sides (an apron), if you like. This step is optional, but can add a bit of extra charm to your project. Cut two 2x4 boards the length of your table, and two more its width. Cut the ends of each board on their narrow side at a 45 degree angle. Glue the boards to the sides of your coffee table top so that they are flush with the top. Clamp them in place, and nail or screw them to the top once the glue has dried. Cut the pieces for the legs. Using 4x4s, cut four pieces to the height you would like your coffee table to be. Approximately 17 inches (43 cm) should be a comfortable height. You will also need to cut two pieces of plywood to 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) by 26 inches (66 cm). Finally, cut two pieces of 2x4 to the length of 19 inches (48 cm). Piece the legs together. Take one of the pieces of plywood you cut and attach one leg to each end, screwing the plywood down on the top (square end) of each leg. Position one of the 2x4 pieces you cut 4.5 inches (11 cm) from the bottom of the other end of the legs. Screw through the legs into the 2x4 so that it sits between the two legs. Repeat this step for the other set of legs. Stain or paint your coffee table pieces. You can choose to paint your table in a vibrant color, use varnish for a natural look, or choose a stain to give it a rich, rustic look. Follow the manufacturer's instructions, and paint/stain all of the pieces of your table, allowing plenty of time for them to dry before continuing. Usually, manufacturers will recommend sanding the wood surface before you finish it with paint or stain. For a classy look, you can use a light-colored stain for the tabletop, and a darker one for its legs. Attach the legs to the top. When everything is dry, turn the tabletop over so that the bottom with the 2x4s is facing up. Turn the legs over so that the plywood attaching them at the top is sitting on top of the 2x4s. Attach the legs by driving screws through the plywood into the 2x4s. Turn everything over, and your table is done! Make sure that the legs are evenly spaced on the bottom of the tabletop before you screw them into place. Build a modular coffee table out of crates. Look for any kind of wooden crates, like those that hold wine, apples, eggs, or milk. The crates can be new or vintage, but you will need four of the same size. Stain or paint them as you like. Once they are dry, lay the crates on their sides and screw them together so that they form one large square. The sides of the crates will serve as the tabletop. Use the parts originally meant to hold the wine, milk, or other items as storage or shelf space below the tabletop. Put a pallet on legs. Find a wooden pallet used for shipping, and four legs from an old piece of furniture or purchased new from a hardware store. Screw one leg into each corner of the bottom of the pallet. Paint or stain the whole table. Add a piece of plexiglass on top of the pallet for a smoother feel. Use an old door as a coffee table top. Look for an old wooden door at a thrift store or flea market. Cut the door to about half its size (unless you want a very long coffee table). Attach four furniture legs (new or old) to the flat surface of the door, one to each of its corners. You can paint or stain the door if you like, but for extra vintage charm, leave it as-is. For a sturdier coffee table, you can screw the door to the top of an existing coffee table, or two small end tables of equal size, instead of just attaching legs to the door's corners. Repurpose an old window as a table top. Glass makes a nice surface for any coffee table, but the frame of an old window adds a chic touch. Attach furniture legs to the corners of the window, or simply screw the window on top of a basic end table to have a small but unique coffee table. If you have a wooden box approximately the same size as your window, you can attach the two pieces together at their edges with hinges. That way, the window will still serve as the coffee table top, but the box will provide added storage. Repurpose an old suitcase. For this project, all you have to do is drill a hole in each corner of the back of a vintage suitcase, with the front-facing portion now facing up. Then, drive screws through the holes and into the tops of four wooden or metal table legs. The closed suitcase serves as a coffee table, but opening it reveals a stylish storage space. For added strength, you can cut a piece of plywood to the size of the interior of the bottom of the suitcase. Place it in the bottom, and drive screws through it into the tops of the legs you are attaching. Use reclaimed wood. Many cities now have locations that offer reclaimed wood for sale. You can often find beautiful and unique pieces that are great for coffee tables. Find a slab that's a good size for this purpose, and use a simple finish like varnish or polyurethane to preserve the natural look. Then, attach existing table legs to the bottom. Leave imperfections like knots in the wood for a touch of rustic charm. You can also build your own legs by using 4x4 wood cut to your preferred length.. Some reclaimed wood centers also sell stumps or thick slices from tree trunks. If you find one of these, you can also just place the glass top from an old round table on top of the chunk of wood for a simple coffee table. Give an existing coffee table a makeover. For a really simple project, you can take a coffee table you already have, and paint or restain it. Remove the glass, if it has any, and use paint/stain remover to strip the old finish off. Add a new paint or stain color that you prefer. Old coffee tables can usually be found at thrift stores, flea markets, and yard sales, just waiting for a makeover.	Cut boards for the top. Piece the top together. Secure the top. Add sides (an apron), if you like. Cut the pieces for the legs. Piece the legs together. Stain or paint your coffee table pieces. Attach the legs to the top. Build a modular coffee table out of crates. Put a pallet on legs. Use an old door as a coffee table top. Repurpose an old window as a table top. Repurpose an old suitcase. Use reclaimed wood. Give an existing coffee table a makeover.
https://www.wikihow.com/Become-a-Good-Poker-Player	How to Become a Good Poker Player	To become a good poker player, keep a straight face whenever you're playing so your opponents can't tell if you have a good hand or not. Also, watch your opponents closely to see if they seem nervous or excited by their cards, which can help you decide how to bet. You can also get better at poker by memorizing good and bad hands so you know whether to bet or fold based on the cards you're dealt. If you want to improve your chances of winning at poker, teach yourself how to count cards.	Relax your face and jaw. Remain calm and maintain a poker face by relaxing your face muscles. Avoid tightening your eyes, raising your eyebrows, or smiling. Even if you perform minute facial changes, these changes can tighten your facial muscles and give your opponents an idea of your hand. Use sunglasses to conceal your eye movements. If you're worried about giving away too much with your eyes, consider wearing dark sunglasses to help maintain your poker face. However, even with sunglasses, try to keep your eyes as still as possible. Movement in your eyes can give away your emotions by triggering muscles on the side of your face. Throw your opponents off by smiling. Sometimes, smiling and acting confident, having conversations with your opponents, and putting on the show of being relaxed and easygoing can be just as deceptive as the best poker face. If you act positive, you might also be able to trick your opponents into folding prematurely! Master body language. Nervous tics like knuckle cracking, nail biting, and fidgeting can reveal your emotions and therefore your hand to your opponents. Remain still and silent in order to throw them off. If that doesn't work for you, fold your hands together or bring a stress ball and squeeze it constantly. Record yourself playing poker for practice. Make sure the game you're playing is real when you record; without stakes, you might not exhibit any problematic tics. Put the camera somewhere that's easy to forget about, to help you relax and display your tics. Play back the video and look for any emotional tells, or ask a friend to guess what cards you had at any point in the video, and take note of what made them think the way they did. Remain consistent. No matter what kind of poker face you choose, the most important thing is that you remain consistent. Whether you're dealt the worst hand possible or the best hand you've ever seen, remaining cool and maintaining your poker face will throw off your opponents! Play conservatively in early position. Early position, or the seats to the left of the dealer, requires a conservative player, because when you bet in early position you're betting before anyone else does. Early position players have to decide whether they want to bet, check, fold, or raise without seeing what the other players are going to do. When you're sitting in early position, only play the best hands. If you're in early position, be careful with bluffing or other “fake outs” because you don't yet have a sense of what the other players have. Remain cautious in middle position. Middle position has the advantage of seeing how the early position players bet, but the disadvantage of playing before the late position players bet. While you can play looser in middle position than in early position, remain cautious and don't try to be too fancy. Unlike early position, where you shouldn't play anything but the best hands, you can play mediocre hands in middle position, but avoid playing truly awful hands or going for long bluffs. Remember that while you have a sense of the table based on early position, someone in late position could surprise you. Plan accordingly. Leverage your late position for more playing power. Late position, which is also called betting position, gives you the best information before betting. Adapt whether or not you bet, call, fold, or check based on what others at the table have done. You can play relatively bad hands in this position. For example, if you're playing Texas Hold'em and there are only a few low bets on the table and you have a mediocre hand like a pair of 7s, late position is a good place to play that hand. Conversely, you might also want to fold a good hand in late position if you think someone who came earlier is going to beat that hand. If no one at the table has bet, late position players can win by simply betting. Memorize bad hands. No matter what type of poker you're playing, some hands will be worse than others. When you're just starting out, memorize the worst hands you can get in poker, and immediately fold as soon as you draw those. This will prevent you from playing a bad game, and losing money on a bad hand. Some examples of bad hands in Texas Hold'em are a 2 and 7, a 2 and 8, and a 3 and 8. One example of a bad hand in Five Card Draw is a hand with a 2, 3, 4, 5, and 7, with all four suits represented. Capitalize on good hands. Teach yourself the stand-out hands in traditional poker plays and ruthlessly pursue the pot when you get dealt such a hand. Be careful to hide your poker tells and try to play off how good your hand is for as long as possible. Good hands in Texas Hold'em include Ace-Ace, King-King, and Queen-Queen. Because of the way Five Card Draw works, the best hand is a fully-completed Royal Flush or similar high card. Don’t rely exclusively on your starting hand. While your starting hand is a good indicator of how the game will probably go, there are many ways to increase your odds and change your chances in poker. At the end of each round, think about who is still in, what the pot is, who is bluffing, and how you think your hand compares. Make decisions on whether to bet, call, fold, or raise throughout the game, and don't be afraid to leave a game if you're doing poorly, even if you've already put some money in the pot. Learn how to count cards. No matter what type of poker you're playing, the odds are always firmly rooted in math and information. Practice counting cards so you know what cards are remaining and what your chances are of drawing the card you need. Look for tics and fidgeting. Check to see if your opponent has widened eyes, is drumming their fingers, or bouncing their legs. These and other body language tics can indicate nervousness. Depending on how they're betting, that can either mean they have a good hand or, more likely, that they have a bad one. Identify when someone is trying to bluff a good hand by faking indifference. If you're playing against someone who is acting uninterested in the game but stays in despite heavy betting, chances are they have a strong hand. As much as they might try to pretend they're not excited about their cards, their willingness to stay in the game shows there's something going on under the surface. Observe if your opponent looks at their chips. If your opponent checks their cards and then looks at their chips, there's a chance they just did that because they want to know how much they can bet. Be cautious though, that also might be a sign of nerves at getting a bad hand and not having too many chips left! Notice if an opponent is trying to stare you down. Often, novice poker players try to intimidate competitors by staring them down and being more aggressive when they have bad hands, especially if their hand is good but not good enough (like a low pair). Conversely, if an opponent who usually makes eye contact suddenly starts avoiding eye contact, that could mean they have a great hand and are trying to hide it.	Relax your face and jaw. Use sunglasses to conceal your eye movements. Throw your opponents off by smiling. Master body language. Record yourself playing poker for practice. Remain consistent. Play conservatively in early position. Remain cautious in middle position. Leverage your late position for more playing power. Memorize bad hands. Capitalize on good hands. Don’t rely exclusively on your starting hand. Learn how to count cards. Look for tics and fidgeting. Identify when someone is trying to bluff a good hand by faking indifference. Observe if your opponent looks at their chips. Notice if an opponent is trying to stare you down.
https://www.wikihow.com/Be-an-Image-Consultant	How to Be an Image Consultant	If you're outgoing and have an eye for style, image consulting might be a great job for you. Look for image consulting workshops or classes in your area that you can take. While these classes aren't necessary for becoming an image consultant, they can help you stand out on your resume. It's also helpful to gain some job experience in a related field. For instance, you might apply to work as a personal shopper or a beauty consultant at a department store. When you feel ready to start your own business, you'll want to decide which specific services you want to provide your clients. For instance, you might want to help job seekers polish their look, provide advice regarding employee uniforms, or help beauty pageant contestants. Once you've found a niche, create a portfolio that you can show potential clients. If you don't have much experience to show for, offer free makeovers to friends and family to pad your portfolio.	Attend a workshop or course. While most colleges and universities don't offer a degree program to become an image consultant, there are often weekend workshops and short-term courses that last anywhere from four to 12 weeks to help prepare you for the career. They usually teach you what the job entails, as well as help you to develop the skills necessary to succeed in the field, such as how to conduct image consultations. Some workshops and courses offer a certificate upon completion, which can be a nice addition to your resume. If you can't find a workshop or course in your area, many online schools offer courses in the field, which can be a convenient alternative. Take related classes. If you're planning to attend or are currently studying at a college, chances are good that your school doesn't offer a degree program in image consultancy. However, that doesn't mean that there aren't available courses that can help prepare you for your career. Majoring in Communications, Marketing, or other related fields can teach you a variety of skills that will help you as an image consultant. Taking art classes can also help you as image consultant because it can help you better understand color theory, which will come in handy when you're helping clients choose the most flattering shades for their hair, makeup, and clothing. Sewing classes can help you understand garment construction and how different fabrics work together. Psychology courses can help you develop skills for a career as an image consultant because you'll learn how to interpret clients' behavior and emotions so you can help them feel better about themselves. Fashion merchandising classes are a good idea if you're thinking about a career as an image consultant because it can help you develop a better understanding of fashion and style. Gain experience in related jobs. You probably won't be able to land a job as an image consultant right away, but there are opportunities in related fields that can help give you valuable experience. You can develop some of the skills necessary to be a successful image consultant by working as a personal shopper or stylist at a department store, a beauty consultant at a makeup counter, or a hair stylist. Even working as a sales associate in clothing store can help prepare you. Many people who become image consultants start on a part-time basis, so they have a reliable income while they're working to build a client base. Decide on a specialty. It's common for image consultants to choose a particular type of service to provide. You might decide to specialize in fashion and style consulting, and help clients build a flattering wardrobe, as well as provide makeup and hair tips. You may choose to focus on etiquette and communication skills to help clients project a more confident, polished image. However, you may prefer to give advice on all facets of a person's image, providing style, etiquette, and communications assistance to help individuals become the complete package. You can also choose to specialize in certain types of clients, such as job seekers, executives, beauty pageant contestants, singles, or cancer survivors. Some image consultants choose to work exclusively with corporate clients instead of individuals, so they provide advice regarding employee uniforms, communications and body language for sales teams, and multicultural etiquette. Develop strategic partnerships. While an image consultant needs to have knowledge of fashion, makeup, hair, and other image related topics, you may not have the necessary skills to help your clients actually make changes. For example, you might be able to help a client choose a new hair color and style, but you may not have the training to actually do the cut and color work. That's why it's important to develop partnerships with makeup artists, hair stylists, and personal trainers, who you can refer your clients to. In turn, these partners can recommend you to individuals who are interested in a complete makeover. You may also want to develop partnerships with dietitians, cosmetic surgeons, dentists, and vocal coaches. It's important to find partners whose skills you really trust, so it's best to work with individuals who you have personal experience with. For example, if you have a hair stylist who's always given you great cuts, ask her or him if s/he would like to partner with you. Offer free makeovers. You need experience working with individuals to convince clients that you're qualified to help revamp their image. Start by offering friends and family free makeovers. For example, if you have a friend who's going to a school reunion, take her shopping for new clothes and provide tips for her makeup and hair. Make sure to take before and after photos of all of your makeovers too. If you don't have enough friends and family members who are interested in makeovers, consider offering your services to local charities, such as a homeless shelter where individuals might need tips preparing for job interviews. Create a portfolio. Prospective clients aren't just going to take your word for it when you tell them that you can successfully help them improve their image; they're going to want to see visual proof. That's why a portfolio of your successful makeovers is a must when you're trying to get clients. Even if you've only given free makeovers, before and after photos show potential clients what kind of results they can expect. Make sure that your portfolio has high quality photos. If possible, take them with a digital camera instead of the one on your phone. Pay attention to the lighting in your photos. You want prospective clients to be able to see all of the details in your makeovers. It's a good idea to have both a physical portfolio that you can bring to meetings with clients, and a digital version that you can send to potential clients who may not be willing to commit to a meeting. Become certified. While it's not a necessity, being certified as an image consultant can give you credibility that makes prospective clients feel more comfortable. The Association of Image Consultants International (AICI) offers certification that informs clients that you've achieved a certain level of knowledge in the field and are committed to staying on top of new trends and developments. Becoming certified means that you can include the "AICI CIC" designation after your name on your resume, website, business cards, and other promotional materials. To become AICI certified, you're required to submit a portfolio which includes client evaluations and proof that you've performed 30 hours of work in the image field, along with other documentation. You also must sit for the AICI CIC Exam, which tests your knowledge of topics in the image field. Start a website and social media accounts. When it comes to starting any kind of business, an online presence is a must because most prospective clients will start their search online. Create a website that contains contact information, your portfolio, bio, and client testimonials if possible. You should also establish Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and other social media accounts to help promote your image consultancy business. It's a good idea to start a blog that focuses on image consultancy issues and tips. It can help you seem like an authority in the field. Make up business cards. While a lot of people search for businesses online, some connections are still made by word of mouth. That's why it's a good idea to have business cards that you can pass out to potential clients. You might meet them at your other job, so it helps to have a card with all your contact info to pass on. You should also give some cards to your strategic partners, so they can give them to potential clients. Include your website and social media account information on your cards, so potential clients can check you out online.	Attend a workshop or course. Take related classes. Gain experience in related jobs. Decide on a specialty. Develop strategic partnerships. Offer free makeovers. Create a portfolio. Become certified. Start a website and social media accounts. Make up business cards.
https://www.wikihow.com/Breed-Shih-Tzus	How to Breed Shih Tzus	Before breeding your Shih Tzus, have them checked out by your vet to ensure they're both healthy and fit for breeding. If you only own the female dog, work out a stud contract with the male dog's owner outlining the obligations, fees, and payment. Then, leave the dogs together for the entire time the female in in heat, which will be about 16 days. Finally, wait 28 days before bringing the female to a veterinarian so that you can confirm the pregnancy.	Speak to an experienced breeder. The best way to find out what you're in for if you breed Shih Tzus is to interview an experienced Shih Tzu breeder, or another Shih Tzu expert. Breeders can tell you firsthand what to expect from the experience, what troubles might arise, and what mistakes you should avoid. The American Shih Tzu Club has several breeder referral volunteers who can be contacted for advice about the breed as well as contact information for Shih Tzu breeders. Make sure you can commit the time to breeding. Raising an average litter requires at least 130 hours of a breeder's time, and may require days off work and sleepless nights. Make sure that you are ready to commit the time and personal effort required to care for both puppies and their mother throughout the process of breeding; remember that a mother can't be left alone during the process of whelping (i.e. giving birth), and that newborn puppies require daily care and checking. Feeding and socializing the puppies, cleaning, paperwork, and interviewing buyers will all require long periods of your time as well. Budget properly. Before going into dog breeding, you should know that it is not a money-making endeavor. Good breeders prioritize the good of the breed and the welfare of their puppies over profit - as such, the process may not offer a large return. Costs include food, health care and vaccinations, facilities, documents for proof of quality, advertising, and stud fees (if applicable). Be prepared for the worst. First time breeders don't have established reputations or references and run the risk of not selling their puppies. Ask yourself what you will do if your puppies don't sell, and if you are willing to care for them on a long-term basis if they don't. While unscrupulous breeders often get rid of puppies that don't sell, or sell them to laboratories or other undesirable buyers, good breeders will accept the liability. You should also be prepared, financially and mentally, for the possibility of having unhealthy puppies in your litter. Make sure that both Shih Tzus are healthy. You must make sure that both the female (dam) and male (sire) are healthy and genetically fit for breeding, and that their vaccinations are current. Testing should be done for conditions that the Shih Tzu breed is prone to, such as heritable eye diseases, Hip Dysplasia, Renal Dysplasia, thyroid disorders, and hearing loss. Once a dog is cleared of one of these conditions, it can be registered with the appropriate registry (e.g. once a dog is tested and cleared of heritable eye diseases, it can be registered with the the local Canine Eye Registry). > The female Shih Tzu should get a thorough pre-breeding physical examination by a veterinarian about a month before breeding begins. Make sure your female Shih Tzu is ready for breeding. Ideally, your Shih Tzu should have her first litter after her second heat cycle but before she's reached the age of 4. Because of health risks, dogs older than 7 should not be bred. Female Shih Tzus stay in heat (i.e. the period in a dog's reproductive cycle when she is receptive to mating) for approximately 16 days, but are usually not receptive to males on the first day of this period. If a female is not ready to mate, she will run from or avoid a male; if she is ready, she will stay and move her tail to the side to signal her readiness. Choose the right stud. Put up flyers, take out a classified ad, or look online for possible studs. Remember that, as a general rule, a male should be smaller than the female Shih Tzu it breeds with by a pound or two. It should also complement your female Shih Tzu in terms of attributes and qualities, and offer genetic strengths that will result in strong, quality offspring (e.g. a good coat). Work out a stud contract. Before breeding occurs, you should work out a contract with the stud's owner outlining obligations, fees, and payment. Stud fees can run between $250-$1000, depending on the quality of the male. but some contracts will outline other forms of payment to the stud's owner (e.g. the pick of the litter in lieu of cash payment). Both parties should sign and keep a copy of the contract. Pair the Shih Tzus. Given that females are more comfortable in new environments than males, you should bring the female to the stud, and not vice versa. Depending on the details of your agreement with the stud's owner, you can either go back for breeding visits as scheduled, or leave the female in the custody of the stud owner during the breeding period. Make sure that all such terms are outlined before the process begins. Confirm the female's pregnancy. The average gestation time for a Shih Tzu is between 59 to 65 days from the date of breeding. While signs of pregnancy may be misleading (e.g. increased appetite, weight gain), a veterinarian can confirm pregnancy around day 28. The veterinarian can also advise you about how to care for and feed your pregnant Shih Tzu. Prepare for the whelping. Prepare for the birth of the puppies by making a whelping box (i.e. a place for your Shih Tzu to give birth). This could be a cardboard box with low edges, a wooden box, or any other box that is wide enough to accomodate the female and the puppies, once they are born. Introduce the whelping box early enough for your Shih Tzu to get used to it before giving birth; line it with towels to make it more comfortable. Monitor the birth. Approximately 24 hours before whelping, the female's temperature will drop. As the time to give birth approaches, she will begin to demonstrate more signs of discomfort (panting, seeming restless). For Shih Tzus, whelping generally lasts 3-8 hours, depending on the number of puppies and the strength of contractions. Dogs are generally able to give birth without assistance, but you should be present to do the following (when, and if, needed): Removing the placental membrane or cutting the umbilical cord in the event that the mother does not do it on her own Count the placentas delivered to make sure that no placentas have been retained Call the veterinarian in the event of an emergency (e.g. two hours or more between delivery of puppies in the litter, a common issue for small dogs like Shih Tzus) Look after the puppies. Puppies should be weighed every day to make sure they're growing, and that they are healthy. Make sure that all puppies are nursing properly, and that they're kept warm; a heating pad or heating lamp can be used, if necessary. Once puppies are weaned from their mother, they will need to be fed; at this point, it is wise to start socializing the puppies to improve their temperament and get them accustomed to canine and human interactions. Take care of the dam. After giving birth, the female will require some extra attention. After whelping, she will need three to four times more food than her regular diet in order to nourish her puppies. Be sure that she consumes calcium, phosphorous, and vitamin D to avoid eclampsia. Register the litter. Register your litter with the American Kennel Club shortly after whelping. This will demonstrate to potential buyers that you're a responsible breeder, and it will establish each individual puppy as an important part of the betterment of their breed. New owners of these puppies will have access to the group's events, services, and information. Establish your price range. The price of Shih Tzu puppies can range tremendously, so you should set a price for yours and stick to it. Prices is based on whether or not the puppies have already been vaccinated, the prices of other local breeders, and your reputation as a breeder. Being consistent about your prices will give you credibility as a serious breeder. Find good homes for your puppies. You should put a lot of thought and effort into choosing new owners for your Shih Tzu puppies, and make sure that potential owners are making the right choice for their lifestyles. Shih Tzus are excellent companion dogs who do not require a lot of exercise, but require daily grooming; if buyers are looking for a more playful and energetic breed, or if you simply do not think a Shih Tzu is what they want, do not sell to them. Good breeders are responsible for the well-being of their puppies long after they are sold.	Speak to an experienced breeder. Make sure you can commit the time to breeding. Budget properly. Be prepared for the worst. Make sure that both Shih Tzus are healthy. Make sure your female Shih Tzu is ready for breeding. Choose the right stud. Work out a stud contract. Pair the Shih Tzus. Confirm the female's pregnancy. Prepare for the whelping. Monitor the birth. Look after the puppies. Take care of the dam. Register the litter. Establish your price range. Find good homes for your puppies.
https://www.wikihow-fun.com/Annoy-People-Around-You	How to Annoy People Around You	Being annoying can be a fun way to pass the time while doing something silly. If you want to annoy your friends, try doing something gross like burping the alphabet or licking the food on your plate during lunch. You could also repeat everything a friend says back to them or talk in a funny voice. If you want to annoy your teacher, waste their time by asking stupid questions, like things they've already covered in class. Or, try making random noises when their back is turned to interrupt class. Just keep in mind that annoying your teacher too much might result in a trip to the principal's office or detention. If you've already annoyed everyone you know, try annoying random people in public! You could talk loudly at the movies or cheer for the wrong team at a sporting event.	Lick your food during a meal. This is a great way to gross out and annoy your friends. Make a show of loudly and sloppily licking all of the food on your plate during lunch at school. Joke around with your friends that you don't want any of them to steal your food, and lick it so none of them want to touch it. If you're having dinner at a friend's house, you probably shouldn't lick your food there. You might make their parents angry. Burp the alphabet to your friends. Suck in some air, and use the burps to recite the alphabet. If you do this over and over during the day, you're sure to annoy a few of your friends. Then, take a break until your friends start thinking about something else, and start burping the alphabet again. This will really annoy them! If some of your friends think it's funny when you burp the alphabet, invite them to join in with you. All of you together can really annoy the rest of your friends. Repeat a phrase over and over during the day. You can drive friends crazy if you keep saying the exact same phrase or expression during the course of a day or week. The phrase can be the punchline of a joke or a quote from a movie that everybody knows. Even if it's funny at first, your friends will find the repeated phrase annoying very quickly. A classic example is “I know you are, but what am I?” Every time your friends respond with a new answer, repeat your phrase: “I know you are, but what am I?” Talk in a funny voice. If you're going to be spending most of the day with your friends—after school, at a museum, or just hanging out at home—try talking in a funny voice or a made-up accent. Your friends may be confused by what you're doing at first, but if you keep the silly voice up, you're bound to annoy them! Try making your voice very high and talk in that voice all day. Or, you could talk in sing-song or try actually singing everything you say to your friends during the day. Be a know-it-all in the classroom. Teachers will be annoyed by a student who thinks they know more than the teacher. So, after everything your teacher says, say, “How can you be so sure?” If your teacher plays along and tries to explain to you why something is true, grunt or say, “I guess that makes sense,” but look obviously unconvinced. If your teacher reprimands you, roll your eyes and sigh. Constantly reference your other teachers, your parents, or even your friends as true expert. After everything your teacher says, say, “But my dad says...” Ask too many questions. Asking questions will annoy your teacher because they will feel like they have to answer you. Try asking questions that are so hard your teacher will be stumped. You can also ask questions that are really obvious, but not so obvious that they can tell you're joking. Waste class time by asking your teacher things that they clearly told you several times. This works best if you ask them something that is clearly written on the board or on the syllabus. If you missed class, instead of looking at the syllabus or asking a classmate, ask your teacher, “What did I miss?” Interrupt your teacher in random ways. Absolutely nothing is more annoying than a student who creates a disturbance and distracts the teacher as well as other students. Click your pen constantly so that everyone can hear, or lean way back in your chair so everyone looks at you. Try squeaking or making random sounds while your teacher's back is turned--then make an innocent face when they turn around! If you're running late to class, make a big fuss about it! Run into the classroom panting out “Sorry I'm late!” Huff and puff and drop your things everywhere. Use your cell phone throughout class. Let it sit on your desk and vibrate repeatedly. Don't bother putting it on silent. Or you can have a loud and obnoxious ring tone. Let it ring while your phone is buried deep in your bag so it'll take forever to turn it off. This will disrupt the class and will make your classmates crack up! Plus, you'll annoy your teacher. Then, if your teacher reprimands you for being on your phone, act oblivious. Say, “I'm sorry, my last teacher said that was okay!” Your teacher will probably take your cell phone for the day, though. Take up too much space on public transportation. You'll be surrounded by strangers on a plane or in a bus, so it's a good place to act out and be silly and distracting. Try to take up as much space as possible in your row or aisle. Stick out your arms and elbows and make a point of stretching your arms so far that they get in the way of your seat mate. If you're sitting by the window, get up often so the other people in your aisle have to stand. Announce, “I have such a small bladder!” You can also make them get up for you, and once you're in the aisle, say, “Whoops, never mind!” and make them get up again so you can be seated. Be disruptive at plays, movie theaters, or concerts. If you're seated at a theater or in a large music venue, get up as much as possible, especially if you're sitting in the middle of a long aisle. Stand up to block the view of the person behind you during crucial moments in the game or film. Talk loudly during key moments. Spill your popcorn, soda, or even your nachos all around you. Your fellow audience members will hate that. Cheer loudly for both teams at a sporting event. First, cheer loudly for just the away team, until the fans around you get annoyed. Once you've sufficiently annoyed them, start cheering for the other team! Sporting events are full of people who are excited to be there and eager to see their teams win. What better place to be annoying? Bring lots of annoying props such as bullhorns, vuvuzelas, or even maracas to make as much noise when you cheer as possible. Pretend you don’t know the rules of a sport. This is a sure-fire way to annoy devoted fans. Cheer wildly when nothing is happening in the game, and ask the people around you to explain the rules multiple times. You'll be especially annoying if you mix up the rules of different sports. For example, if someone kicks a goal during a soccer game, scream, “Touchdown!” If someone scores during a football game, cry, “Home run!” Be loud or sarcastic at a museum. Museums are places where people like to be quiet and respectful. They come to admire great art and take themselves seriously. Laugh to yourself, say goofy things on your phone, or send loud text messages to annoy other museum patrons. Loudly shush people. Pretend to be working at the museum and ask people who aren't talking to be quiet. After spending a long time inspecting a strange sculpture or a confounding painting, loudly exclaim, “I could do that!” Be flaky at social gatherings. If you want to annoy your friends occasionally, you can make plans to do something, act really excited, and then tell them you can't make it at the last possible minute. This is a fool-proof way to annoy your friends no matter how nice they are. Before you flake on them, say something like, “I know I'm really flaky, but I swear I'll come this time!” Or, cancel on them after they're already on their way to meet you. Wait for them to show up to the place where you planned to meet. Tell them you can't make it over text message, and don't explain yourself. Complain about whatever activity you’re doing together. If you're watching a movie, keep talking about how boring it is. If you're out at a special restaurant, keep complaining that the food is dry or bland. If the food takes more than a minute to arrive, tap your fingers loudly on the counter and sigh. Complain about insignificant things. This tactic will be especially annoying if you complain about something extremely minor, like an A-minus on a term paper, or about someone cutting you off on the highway. Then you can burst out and say, “I have no one to talk to! I feel like no one cares!” after complaining for hours on end.	Lick your food during a meal. Burp the alphabet to your friends. Repeat a phrase over and over during the day. Talk in a funny voice. Be a know-it-all in the classroom. Ask too many questions. Interrupt your teacher in random ways. Use your cell phone throughout class. Take up too much space on public transportation. Be disruptive at plays, movie theaters, or concerts. Cheer loudly for both teams at a sporting event. Pretend you don’t know the rules of a sport. Be loud or sarcastic at a museum. Be flaky at social gatherings. Complain about whatever activity you’re doing together. Complain about insignificant things.
https://www.wikihow.com/Organize-Your-Desk	How to Organize Your Desk	To organize your desk, start by clearing everything off the top of it and emptying all of the drawers. Then, go through everything and throw away whatever you don't need or want. Once you've done that, put your most essential items near the front of your desk so they're within reach when you need them. Next, put non-essential items that you still use regularly in easy-to-reach drawers. If you have a lot of paperwork, set up a letter tray on your desk so you can keep your papers organized.	Start from scratch. Reorganizing will be easiest if you start with a blank desk. Clear everything off the top. Remove items from the drawers (if you have them). Keep everything together on a separate table or on the floor so you can go through it later. Once the initial clutter is out of the way, you'll be able to assess exactly how you want your desk to look. It will likely take much longer to go through your desk one object at a time looking for things to throw away. Clean your desk inside and out. Take advantage of your desk being clear and use the opportunity to give it a good cleaning. Dust and wipe your desktop down with a multi-surface cleaner. Treat lingering stains and polish away scratches in wooden desks. Your desk will look brand new when you're finished. Be sure everything has been removed from the desk before you start cleaning. Otherwise, you'll have to clean around the existing clutter. Throw away old and unnecessary items. Take the junk you removed from your desk and divide everything into two piles: one for things to throw away, and another for things you intend to keep. Be stern with your choices. Get rid of as many unimportant items as you can until your stuff has been pared down to the bare necessities. This will make it easier to keep up with everything. People often develop attachments to things they don't use that have no benefit to them. Letting go of unused belongings can bring you some much-needed peace of mind once it's done. Don't forget to dispose of any trash you find while clearing out your desk. This can account for a large portion of the clutter. Update your space. Take a look around your desk for anything that's no longer current. This can include outdated calendars, answered and unanswered mail and even old photos. Find fresh replacements for these objects. Throw away the out of date items or put them in storage. Everything on your desk should be new and ready to use going forward. It's okay to hold onto things that have sentimental value. If you have an old picture, gift or memento you want to keep, stash it away somewhere safe and keep your desk free for its intended use. Change up your desk’s configuration. Now that it's time to start putting things back on your desk, don't just stick everything back where it was. Think of new ways you could reorder your desk to take advantage of the space you have. You might simply “mirror” your desk by putting things back on the opposite side, or choose new locations for each piece individually. Devising an engaging layout that will help you stay interested while you're working. Rearranging the items on your desk is a small tweak that will nonetheless help break up the monotony of always seeing the same things in the same places when you sit down to work. In China, there is an entire art devoted to changing the positioning of everyday objects. It is known as feng shui , and it has been shown to be very psychologically therapeutic. Stock up on new supplies. Running low on paper, ink pens or staples? Visit an office supply store and pick up some materials to replenish your desk. Take a list with you so you won't forget the basics or use your phone for the list. Focus on things that you use a lot and tend to go through quickly. When it's time to get to work, you'll be stocked on all the essentials, that you need. Even if your workplace provides office supplies, keeping a few of your own things on hand (such as a favorite type of pen) can make you feel more comfortable. Arrange items sensibly. Once you have an idea of how you want your new desk layout to look, position your belongings in a way that will maximize productivity while eliminating potential clutter. Reserve the center of the desk for your computer, for instance, while keeping important tools and documents within arms reach. Not only will this make it easier to work, it will also keep you from having to search for things because they will always be in the most logical spot. Your intuition will usually be your best guide for telling you where an item should go. If you instinctively look for a certain thing in a certain location, that's probably the best place for it to go. Add some flair. A clean, organized desk is the goal, but that doesn't mean it has to be dull. Add a few decorative touches to your desk to give it a little personality. A couple framed pictures, a small statue or a humorous coffee mug can liven up your space and make it feel more like home. If you work in a cubicle or office, bring a few items from home to combat the drab atmosphere of the workplace. Tack up inspirational images and messages to keep you motivated to work hard. Keep your most essential items close at hand. If you find yourself reaching for certain things a lot, make sure they're accessible. Give some thought to how frequently you reach for certain items on your desk and arrange them in order of importance. By taking this approach, you can streamline the process of finding and using various supplies. Writing utensils, typing paper, notebooks, communication devices and digital accessories might all be kept out in the open, or somewhere else that you can get to easily. Separate pens and pencils into a cup to keep them together and ready to use without taking up too much space. Leave paper clips and staplers near the printer or wherever you complete paperwork. You can save as much as an hour a day by minimizing the time it takes you to hunt for things in a messy desk. Put frequently used items in easy-to-reach drawers. Non-essential supplies that see a lot of use can go in drawers so that you can take them out as they're needed. Reserve the top drawers of your desk for larger items and things that you use often but don't necessarily need to keep out on the desktop. For instance, you might find that you use your laptop, tablet and other electronic devices more often than pen and paper for completing your work. In this case, these secondary materials can be stored away close at hand while leaving your desk clear for your electronics. If you have a lot of smaller items, buy some desk drawer organizer trays. These fit neatly into the drawers of your desk and are made up of compartmentalized sections that let you keep everything organized and visible in its proper place. Make a mental priority list of where things should go in your workspace. If you use an item frequently or it's important to keep up with, leave it on your desktop. If you have a need for it every now and then, secure it in a nearby drawer. If you rarely use it or it doesn't really belong on your desk, find someplace else to keep it. Store unused clutter out of the way. Anything you decide to keep but don't need on hand at your desk should be stored elsewhere so that it doesn't accumulate and turn into a mess. This includes personal items, snacks and beverages and gadgets you only need on rare occasions. Written documents should go into folders and then into a filing cabinet, while other materials might need to be put away in a bottom drawer or closet if they're not likely to be used. Keep as much off and out of your desk as you can, except for the things that you have to have. Try to get in the habit of putting away things after you've used them. Otherwise, they have a tendency to accumulate on your desktop or get stuffed into a drawer that can quickly fill up with junk. Use a letter tray to keep up with paperwork. To facilitate sorting paper documents, invest in a letter tray. These are shallow, multi-tiered containers that allow you to designate each level for incoming and outgoing paperwork, as well as answered and unanswered mail. By confining your written materials to a letter tray, folders and a filing cabinet, you'll prevent your desk space from becoming overwhelmed by loose paper. Using a paper tray, or multiple trays for different purposes, is a simple trick that can help eliminate the majority of paper clutter on your desk. Have one tray ready for finished/unfinished paperwork, another for incoming/outgoing mail, etc. Get your shared work area under control. Some people might have to make use of a communal desk or partitioned cubicle while at the office, or your desk may just be in close proximity to others, leaving you with a limited amount of room. You can still take steps to tame a shared space. First, make sure there are clear boundaries in place to distinguish what belongs where. Then, you can begin organizing your own section to maximize order and efficiency. Label your personal materials and keep them close to where you sit. Identify which paperwork is yours and sort it into individual file folders, and from there into drawers or paper trays. Have a designated place for shared supplies so that extraneous clutter doesn't spill into your area. Carry a backpack or briefcase to help you keep tabs on your stuff. If you're working in a setting with shared space and storage, you might not be able to keep as many supplies and belongings on your desk or in nearby drawers. Stay on top of regular sorting and cleaning to keep a shared desk or workspace from turning into a mess. More people concentrated into the same confined area means more trash, stray papers and general disarray.	Start from scratch. Clean your desk inside and out. Throw away old and unnecessary items. Update your space. Change up your desk’s configuration. Stock up on new supplies. Arrange items sensibly. Add some flair. Keep your most essential items close at hand. Put frequently used items in easy-to-reach drawers. Store unused clutter out of the way. Use a letter tray to keep up with paperwork. Get your shared work area under control.
https://www.wikihow.com/Open-a-Clothing-Store	How to Open a Clothing Store	To open a clothing store, you'll need to choose a niche and find a suitable location. Since there are lots of clothing stores, you'll need to specialize in a particular niche like women's clothes, business clothes, vintage, or sportswear. Once you've decided on your market, you'll need to find a suitable location for your store. Look for somewhere with high foot traffic and little competition nearby. If you don't have the cash to start your business, look for bank loans or private investors to fund it. After you've acquired your store, buy stock from wholesalers and local manufacturers to sell.	Identify your target audience. Your target audience determines almost everything else about your store, from the products you carry to the location of your storefront. Start by brainstorming who you'd like to market to. Then use that decision to make other decisions about your store. Think big at first. Do you want to appeal to men or women? Then get more specific. Think about what ages, professions, and styles you want to appeal to. To start, go by what you know. If you worked in a store that sold suits to businesspeople, then you already know that market. Consider entering a field you have experience in like this. Consider where you might make the most money. Business suits might not be in high demand in a small town. But you may get a lot of tourists in the summer. In this case, it may be better to open a store geared to tourists. Investigate potential locations for your store. Location is one of the most important early decisions you'll make in opening your business, so conduct careful market research. Look for a location that has a good foot traffic to get your first customers. Look for other businesses like yours. Small businesses often cluster together to attract as many customers as possible, so this may be a ready-made location for you. Don't locate yourself too close to identical stores. If there are a lot of other small clothing stores in the location you're looking, this market may be too saturated. Consider finding a different location. If you're marketing to tourists, for example, then locate your store near the main attraction areas. For good foot traffic, open the store near restaurants and coffee shops. Places where people visit often can bring in a lot of window shoppers. Find out what the rent is in every area you look. This will be a big expense, so don't overlook it in the planning stage. Find a specialty for your store’s merchandise. Big department stores offer all the big brands at low prices, so your store won't stand out if you try to follow that model. Think about what would set you apart from larger competitors and other small businesses. Carry brands or products that department stores don't, or develop a specialty in a field that your area lacks. One good angle is carrying brands made by local manufacturers. This gives a much different flavor to your store than someone could get at a large retailer. Your town may have a lot of off-brand boutique stores, but perhaps they lack a maternity store. This could be where you make your niche. Develop a backup plan if your business isn't successful. Remember that starting any business is a risk and many small businesses fail. Don't let this discourage you, but also have backup plans in mind in case the business doesn't work out. Have emergency savings to cover 6 months of living expenses if you have to find a new job. Remember that clothing stores usually have smaller profit margins than other businesses. Get into this because you love the industry and want to work with people. This passion will help you deal with below-average profits. Determine your total operating costs. Figure out how much your store will cost to run before opening it. If you don't have a full financial picture, your store is unlikely to succeed. Operating costs, sometimes called overhead or fixed costs, are the expenses you have to pay regularly just to keep the store open. Add up all the costs that remain consistent each month and have to be paid. The resulting sum is your operating cost. Common items for operating costs are rent, utilities, insurance, and phone/internet connections. If you take out loans, paying them back is also a fixed cost. Common advice is to keep your rent about 6% of your yearly sales. Keep this in mind when you add up your costs. If rent is $2,000 per month, that's $24,000 per year. That means you'd need about $400,000 in sales to meet this recommendation. If you can't project sales that high, consider finding cheaper rent. Add up your inventory and labor costs. These costs are called variable costs , because they can change from month to month. For instance, you could buy less inventory or hire less workers and your store would still stay open. Add up what all your inventory will cost you and how much paying your employees will cost. Then combine this number with any other variable costs you have. Some other variable costs include advertising and marketing expenses, since you technically don't have to do these things to stay open. Add up your fixed and variable costs to get your breakeven price, meaning the amount you have to make each month just to cover your expenses. Draw up a business plan. A business plan is crucial not only to focus your own thoughts, but also because any potential investors will want to see your plan before providing any financing. Put together a comprehensive explanation for your business, including the products you'll sell, your operating plan, and all your expenses. Be ready to present this plan to anyone you ask for financing. Start by describing your business concisely. What will you sell and who is your target audience? Then outline how you will fit into the current market. Explain the research that you've done and how you'll set yourself apart from competitors. Finally, outline your total costs, both fixed and variable. Then note how much financing you'll need to get started. Form a legal business entity. While forming a business entity is not a requirement, there are many advantages to doing so. Forming an entity separates your personal and business finances, so your personal savings are protected. Merchants, manufacturers, and lenders are also usually more willing to work with a business rather than an individual. Finally, you can declare business expenses and get tax write-offs as a business owner. The most common entities are a Limited Liability Company (LLC) and corporation. Most small businesses are LLCs because they usually don't involve a lot of people. File for a business license in the state you're operating in. If you don't want to handle the paperwork yourself, you can hire a lawyer or other business to do the work for you. Apply for a business loan or find private investors. If you don't have enough savings to open the store yourself, then secure financing from a bank or private individuals. Apply for a small business loan from a local bank. If the bank won't provide enough funds, a private investor may be a better option. Keep in mind that private investors usually want to see a larger return on their investment than a bank. They may want to own a part of the business in exchange for the loan. The amount of the loan depends on your total costs. Experts recommend having 6-12 months of expenses on hand when you start up, because it will take several months to start bringing in money. Typical amounts for opening a small clothing store range from a low of $50,000 to over $200,000, or even more for larger stores. It's better to have more cash on hand than not enough. Most small business fail within their first year because they don't have enough capital. Contact suppliers for quotes on merchandise. With your financing and business plan in place, begin stocking your store. Look for suppliers or manufacturers in the niche your store is in. Find the best items for the best price and place orders for your initial stock. Consider buying items in bulk to save costs. However, don't order more than you think you can sell. If you sink all your startup money into merchandise right away, you might not be able to pay your other bills. Try contacting manufacturers directly rather than wholesalers. You might save money by buying directly from manufactures. Trade shows are also good places to pick up cheap wholesale items. Carry products from local manufacturers to set your store apart. Small stores are part of their communities, and a great way for you to insert yourself into the local community is by showcasing local manufacturers. Contact jewelry makers, artists, and clothing makers to place their items in your store. This gives you a good supply of merchandise and is also great for your marketing. If you don't have room in your store for locals to stock their items all the time, consider doing a monthly event for local manufacturers. Set up a tent in your parking lot and let them come showcase their products, for example. Hire employees if you need them. The number of employees you'll need depends on the size of the store. A common recommendation is for 1 full time and 1 part time worker for each 1,000 sq ft (93 m ) of store. Think about how much work you can do yourself. Then hire more people as you need them. Have at least one trusted employee who can run the store when you're not there. You never know when you'll have an emergency or get sick, so someone should know as much as you know about running the store. Remember that each employee you hire is another added expense. Only hire people you need. If work is irregular, consider hiring seasonal employees to save money. If you run a tourist shop that is only active in the summer, you don't need many employees in the winter months. Have a grand opening event. After all your hard work, arrive with a bang by having a big grand opening event. Invite everyone you know and advertise the event around town. This is your big chance to show everyone your store and get the word out. Offer special sales on opening day to give everyone a sample of what you have to offer. Contact local media sources to come cover the event. This could give you some free advertising. Invite the mayor or other local politicians to bring more attention to the event. Use social media to place ads. Social media offers a great, cheap way to advertise. First, start a page for your store on all the major social media sites. Then start ad campaigns on these sites to spread the word to locals about your business. Since your business has a physical location, set the ads to target people living 5-10 miles from you. Advertising to people 100 miles away will waste your ad budget. Update all your social media sites regularly. If you haven't posted on Facebook in 6 months, people may think your business closed down. Aim for at least 1 post per week on each of your accounts. Also make any major announcements, like sales, on all your accounts and website. Remember that advertising still costs money. Work these ads into your budget to avoid going over costs. Appear at local fairs and festivals. Most communities have events like these to showcase local businesses. Do your best to attend as many as you can to promote your business. Bring samples and items to sell so people can see what you offer. Always bring plenty of business cards when you attend these events. Pass them out to as many people as you can. Check with your local chamber of commerce to find a list of upcoming business events. Attend as many as you can. Don't leave the store unattended or closed when you attend events. Leave your best employee to run the store while you're gone. Sell online to reach a wider audience. Websites like Amazon and eBay offer a massive platform for small businesses. If you only focus on your in-person sales, you're missing out on a huge potential to reach more customers. Make selling accounts on one or more online retail site and list your products. This is a great way to attract more customers or keep your profits up if visits to your store are slow. Stay on top of your online sales. If you get a reputation for poor service, you could get banned from these sites. Include links to your online store on all your social media sites. Remember that all online stores have fees associated with them. Find out all the fees you'll pay and price your items accordingly so you won't lose money.	Identify your target audience. Investigate potential locations for your store. Find a specialty for your store’s merchandise. Develop a backup plan if your business isn't successful. Determine your total operating costs. Add up your inventory and labor costs. Draw up a business plan. Form a legal business entity. Apply for a business loan or find private investors. Contact suppliers for quotes on merchandise. Carry products from local manufacturers to set your store apart. Hire employees if you need them. Have a grand opening event. Use social media to place ads. Appear at local fairs and festivals. Sell online to reach a wider audience.
https://www.wikihow.com/Soften-Stiff-New-Sheets	How to Soften Stiff New Sheets	If you want to soften a stiff set of new sheets, place them in the washing machine and add 1 cup of baking soda in place of your regular detergent. Wash the sheets on a regular cycle with warm water. When it's time for the rinse cycle, turn the temperature to cold and add 1 cup of white vinegar to the machine. Once the washing machine has finished, remove the sheets and hang them outside to dry, or put them in the dryer on low heat. If the sheets are still stiff, wash them again with regular detergent.	Place the sheets in the washing machine. After removing your new sheets from their packaging, place them directly into the washing machine. If they are queen size or larger, you may want to wash the top and bottom sheets separately to give them enough room in the machine. Add one cup of baking soda. Instead of your normal laundry detergent, add one cup of baking soda to the machine. It's important to omit the detergent, as it tends to lock chemicals into the sheets. These chemicals contribute to the stiffness of the sheets, so it's better to remove them. Wash on a regular cycle. Set the machine to a regular cycle using warm water, and turn the washer on. Add a cup of vinegar during the rinse cycle. When it's time for the rinse cycle, turn the temperature of the machine to cold and add a cup of white vinegar. This will help to soften the sheets further, but is completely optional. The baking soda will work on its own. Line dry the sheets. When the rinse cycle is finished, remove the sheets from the machine and hang outside to dry in the sun. This will help to soften them further. If you don't have space to dry them outside, place in the dryer and dry on a low setting - drying at too high a temperature can cause shrinkage. Wash again. Once the sheets are dry, you can wash them a second time using the regular amount of detergent. Although washing them twice sounds like a lot of work, it really helps to soften the sheets. Dry outside or in the dryer, then iron them (if you like) and place them directly on the bed. Remember that your sheets will become softer every time you wash them. Good quality sheets will become softer after every washing, drying and ironing cycle. For ultimate softness (and durability) buy good quality cotton sheets with a high thread count. Use fabric softener. In addition to a cup of baking soda, you can add the recommended amount of your favorite fabric softener to the machine when you wash your new sheets. This provides extremely soft sheets. Alternatively, you can just use the softener on its own. Use turpentine. Add half a cup of turpentine to the washing water with the sheets and wash on a regular cycle using warm water. Rinse thoroughly to remove most of the turpentine. Hang the sheets outside or on a clothes horse to dry. It is very important that you do not put the sheets in the dryer after washing with turpentine as turpentine is combustible and could cause a fire. Use Epsom salts. Fill a laundry tub with cold water and add 50g of Epsom salts. Stir the sheets around in the tub for two minutes (use a wooden spoon if you don't want your hands to get cold!) Leave the sheets to soak overnight in the Epsom salts mixture. The following morning, rinse the sheets out thoroughly, then hang them outside to dry. Use borax. Fill a laundry tub with cold water and add 6 tablespoons of borax to the tub. Add the sheets to the water, stir them around and leave them to soak overnight. Rinse thoroughly the next morning and hang outside to dry. Use salt. Fill a laundry tub with cold water and throw in 2 handfuls of salt. Add the sheets and leave them to soak overnight. Wash, rinse, and dry as usual. Finished.	Place the sheets in the washing machine. Add one cup of baking soda. Wash on a regular cycle. Add a cup of vinegar during the rinse cycle. Line dry the sheets. Wash again. Remember that your sheets will become softer every time you wash them. Use fabric softener. Use turpentine. Use Epsom salts. Use borax. Use salt. Finished.
https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-a-Cabbage	How to Grow a Cabbage	To grow a cabbage, start by planting the seeds ¼ of an inch deep and 2 inches apart in a pot or growing tray. For best results, plant the seeds 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost of spring. Once you've planted the seeds, mix in manure or fertilizer and compost to give them the nutrients they need to grow. Keep them in a place where they'll get plenty of sunlight or use a growing lamp. After 3 to 4 weeks, re-plant the seedlings outside at least 12 inches apart so they can get plenty of natural sunlight.	Choose multiple varieties of cabbage. You'll have a longer harvest if you plant several varieties that have different maturities. If your cabbages are maturing at different times, you'll have fresh cabbage longer. Cabbage maturities vary from 60 to 120 days. Cabbage varieties are grouped according to when they are harvested. Spring cabbages are ready the earliest, from mid to late spring. Summer cabbages can be harvested in late summer and early fall. Cabbages categorized as fall and winter cabbages are harvested later in the fall. If you want a variety with a longer harvesting period, you might pick the Savoy cabbage. The harvesting season for this variety starts in early fall and extends into winter and early spring of the next year. Start seeds 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost. Sow your seeds.25 inches (0.64 cm) deep and 2 inches (5.1 cm) apart. Place them in a spot where they'll get plenty of sunlight, or set them under grow lamps with temperatures between 60 and 70 °F (16 and 21 °C). If you don't want to start your cabbage from seeds yourself, you can buy transplant seedlings from a local grower or at a nursery or farmer's market. Prepare soil with aged manure or fertilizer and compost. Till the soil of your planting bed to a depth of about 2 inches (5.1 cm) and mix in a layer of compost. Top the layer of compost with a balanced fertilizer or manure. Water the bed thoroughly after fertilizing it, and make sure it stays moist until you transplant your seedlings. Move your seedlings outdoors after 3 to 4 weeks. Start your seeds indoors for a couple of weeks, then transfer them to your garden. Seedlings exposed to cold will become hardened so that frost won't kill them. You will need to harden the seedlings off gradually by setting them outside in a sheltered area for an increasing number of hours each day for about a week. Once they're hardened, set your plants so that 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) of the main stem is buried in the soil. While hardening off the seedlings, place them in an area where they won't be exposed to harsh wind or direct sunlight. Leave them out for 1-2 hours at a time to start, then gradually work your way up to 7 or 8 hours by the end of the week. Thin the seedlings so that there is only 1 seedling per cell or pot that you transplant. You can wait until the seeds have germinated, then pick the strongest seedling in each tray. Seedlings should have at least 3 or 4 adult leaves before you transplant them. Arrange your cabbage in rows with plenty of sun exposure. Cabbage needs at least 6 hours of sunshine a day. The more sun your cabbage gets, the larger and faster the heads will grow. Set the seedlings in rows 12 to 24 inches (30 to 61 cm) apart. For fall or winter varieties, leave a minimum of 24 inches (61 cm) between each seedling, if not a little more. Place your cabbage among complementary plants. Plants such as beans, celery, cucumbers, potatoes, onions, and lettuce will improve your cabbages' health and help them thrive. Spinach, kale, and dill are some other plants that are helpful near cabbage. Avoid planting cabbage near broccoli, cauliflower, strawberries, or tomatoes. These crops compete for similar nutrients and will deplete your soil faster. Plant them on the other side of the garden, or at least 4 feet (1.2 m) away for best results. The Old Farmer's Almanac has a table of companion plantings available at https://www.almanac.com/content/companion-planting-guide. Protect seedlings from pests with row covers and collars. Seedlings are vulnerable to cutworms. A collar made from a plastic cup and pushed 1 inch (2.5 cm) into the ground around the seedling will protect it. Nets and row covers can be used to protect your cabbage from airborne pests. Keep the pH of your soil between 6. 0 and 6.5. Buy a kit online or at your local gardening shop if you want to test the pH of your soil yourself. If you live in the US, you also have the option of contacting the agricultural extension of your state university. They will take samples of your soil and lab-test it at no charge. If you need to lower your soil's pH, use products such as organic mulches, elemental sulfur, or aluminum sulfate. If you need to raise your soil's pH, add hydrated lime or wood ash. Use 2 inches (5.1 cm) of water and mulch each week. Cabbages need moist soil. Unless you've had frequent rain, water the soil around the cabbages at least once a week. Mulch after watering to keep the moisture in the soil. When watering and mulching, inspect your cabbage for signs of pests or disease. Spraying with a biological pesticide every other week can keep pest damage to a minimum. Take care not to wet the foliage of your cabbages, especially in cooler weather. Wet leaves can make your cabbages more vulnerable to disease. You can prevent water and soil from splashing onto your cabbages by gently watering the soil near the base of the cabbage instead of spraying water directly onto the soil right at the base. Fertilize the soil 3 weeks after planting. A fish emulsion or other liquid fertilizer will enable optimum growth. Add the fertilizer soon after your cabbage begins to develop new leaves, and then again when the plants start forming heads. If the leaves of your cabbages are starting to yellow, this is a sign they need a boost of fertilizer. Handpick pests and weeds from your cabbage. Go over your cabbages at least once a week and remove pests if necessary. This can require a close inspection, since many cabbage pests, such as cabbage worms, are small and difficult to see. Cabbages have shallow roots. Pull out weeds growing near your cabbages by hand, so you don't damage or disturb the root system of your plants. Let your cabbage grow about 70 days. Different varieties grow at different rates. However, generally speaking, most cabbages are ready for harvest within 70 days of the date you transplanted the seedlings. It's okay to leave them a little longer before harvesting if you want the heads to grow larger. Most varieties produce heads weighing from 1 to 3 pounds (0.45 to 1.36 kg). You can harvest spring cabbages young as loose greens, which will allow for repeated cuttings. Cut the cabbage head at the base. Use a clean, sharp knife to cut off the cabbage head as close to its base as possible. After cutting it, immediately move it to a shady spot or take it inside. Remove the entire stem and root system after harvesting. This can help prevent disease buildup in your soil. Wrap cabbages in plastic wrap to refrigerate them. After harvesting, refrigerate your cabbages as soon as possible. Plastic wrap or a plastic bag will help your cabbage heads retain moisture, so they'll last longer. Properly stored cabbage will last at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator, and may last as long as 2 months. Set up a root cellar to keep your fresh cabbage longer. If you've harvested more cabbage than you can consume within a few weeks, store it in a root cellar if you want to keep it fresh. Cabbage keeps well for 5 to 6 months if stored in a moist place with a consistent temperature of between 32 and 40 °F (0 and 4 °C). Clean your cabbage heads thoroughly before cooking or eating. When you're ready to eat a cabbage, remove the outer leaves, then thoroughly wash the heads. The tightly packed leaves of cabbage heads often hide insects, along with bits of soil or other organic matter. If you don't use the entire cabbage head, wrap the remainder up tightly and refrigerate it immediately.	Choose multiple varieties of cabbage. Start seeds 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost. Prepare soil with aged manure or fertilizer and compost. Move your seedlings outdoors after 3 to 4 weeks. Arrange your cabbage in rows with plenty of sun exposure. Place your cabbage among complementary plants. Protect seedlings from pests with row covers and collars. Keep the pH of your soil between 6. Use 2 inches (5.1 cm) of water and mulch each week. Fertilize the soil 3 weeks after planting. Handpick pests and weeds from your cabbage. Let your cabbage grow about 70 days. Cut the cabbage head at the base. Wrap cabbages in plastic wrap to refrigerate them. Set up a root cellar to keep your fresh cabbage longer. Clean your cabbage heads thoroughly before cooking or eating.
https://www.wikihow.com/Fold-a-Suit-for-Travel	How to Fold a Suit for Travel	To fold a suit jacket for travel, start by turning the jacket inside out to protect the outer fabric. Next, put your hand inside the coat and push them into the shoulders so the lining pops out, which will make the jacket easier to fold. Just fold the jacket in half lengthwise, then fold it in half again horizontally to make a square. To fold pants, start by making a vertical, lengthwise fold along the pleats.Then, starting at the bottom, roll the pant legs into a tight bundle.	Clean and press your suit before you travel. While this folding technique will do wonders for preventing wrinkles during the traveling process, it can't do anything for wrinkles or stains that are already there. To ensure your suit jacket is in tip-top shape, send it to the dry cleaner's at least a week before you leave and ensure the cleaner presses the suit in addition to removing any stains. If you're pressed for time, you may want to iron the suit yourself. If you do so, ensure the lapels are well-ironed - it's possible to hide wrinkles elsewhere on the suit, but nearly impossible to hide them on the lapels. Turn the jacket inside out. Turn the fabric of your jacket around so that the lining is on the outside. This protects the actual outer fabric of the jacket - now, if the jacket incurs any wrinkles while traveling, they're likely to be on the inside of the jacket when you wear it. Pop the shoulders inside out. Next, put your hand inside the coat and push your fist into the shoulders so that the lining of the shoulders "pops" out. These inside-out shoulders make the jacket much easier to fold - if you hadn't popped them out, you would have to deal with the awkwardness of inward-facing shoulder pads. Fold the jacket vertically. Gather both shoulders in one hand and use the other to grasp the jacket at the midpoint of its collar. This should have the effect of folding the jacket in half lengthwise. Straighten the material of the jacket out after folding - the liner should still be on the outside. Fold the jacket in half horizontally. Place your forearm horizontally across the middle of the jacket and fold the top of the jacket over. This should create a roughly square "bundle" that fits easily in a suitcase. Place the jacket in a plastic bag. To protect your jacket in your luggage, it's a wise idea to place it in a plastic bag separate from other clothing. Slide the square, folded "bundle" that your jacket is in into a large plastic bag (like a dry cleaning bag or a large ziplock bad). Seal the bag carefully. If you don't have a bag handy, use a sheet of sturdy plastic material. Place the folded jacket in the middle of the sheet and fold the sides in and under the jacket. If you're using a plastic bag, try to trap a little air in the bag with the suit. This protective "bubble" can prevent the other clothes in the suitcase from pressing into the jacket, eliminating wrinkles. Lay the wrapped jacket in your suitcase. Try keep the suit as flat as possible and to avoid compressing it. To minimize wrinkling, place only other flat, folded items of clothing on top of the jacket. Avoid placing hard, awkwardly-shaped items like shoes on top of the jacket. Unfold your jacket at your destination. When you arrive at your destination, you'll want to essentially do the steps above in reverse. Remove any clothes on top of the jacket, open its bag, undo the horizontal and vertical folds in it, and turn the fabric right-side out. Wrinkling should be minimal - to combat any wrinkles that remain, hang the suit immediately. For persistent wrinkles, try hanging the jacket in the bathroom. When you take a shower, the warmth and steam will loosen the fabric, helping to release any difficult wrinkles. Fold the pants along their pleats. The simplest option when it comes to folding pants for traveling is to make only vertical, lengthwise folds. This strategy is best for pants with "pleats" - vertical folds sewn into the fabric along the waist of the pants. If your pants have pleats, fold vertically along these. This way, even if the fold sets into the pants as a wrinkle, the long, continuous vertical wrinkles will look like the result of ironing. You may also fold the pants in half vertically to further save space. Roll the pants to save space. One of the big disadvantages of folding pants only vertically is that many suitcases simply aren't big enough to stretch the entire pant leg out in. If you're pressed for space, try rolling your pants. Fold the pants in half vertically and lay them on a clean, flat surface. Starting at the bottom, roll the pant legs into a tight bundle. This prevents wrinkles by exposing a minimum of the pants' surface area to other items in the suitcase and makes the pants take up relatively little space. Fold horizontally with caution. If you can, you'll want to avoid folding dress pants horizontally, as this can contribute to creases that can't be explained away as the result of ironing. However, if you do fold your pants horizontally (this is usually done after folding the pants once vertically), you can minimize wrinkles by following the same rules as listed above for suit jackets - place only flat, folded items on top of them, place them in a bag if possible, and so on. One great idea for pants folded horizontally is to "sandwich" them within the two sides of the folded suit jacket. This provides them the protection of the inside-out jacket fabric as well as the jacket's bag. To begin, button the shirt and lay it face-down on a flat surface. You don't necessarily have to button every button - just enough to keep the front of the shirt closed. Next, lay the shirt face down with its material spread flat and its sleeves stretched out. If you happen to have extra dry cleaning bags, you may want to lay one squarely in the middle of the back of the shirt. This prevents the shirt from pressing against itself while folded, reducing the chance of wrinkles. Fold the edges of the shirt inward. Make two vertical folds along the back of the shirt to bring the edges of the shirt roughly one sleeve-length inward. Straighten the edges of the shirt so that they are uniform and parallel. Fold the sleeves down along the new edges. Next, take each sleeve and fold it down so that it lines up with the folded edges of the shirt. The edges of the sleeve should be roughly in line with both the new outer edge of the shirt and with the edge of the shirt material that has been folded inward. Make minor adjustments, straightening the fabric as necessary until it lines up perfectly. At this point, a good rule of thumb is that the shirt's shoulders should now be shortened so that only an inch or two of material is left on either side of the collar. Consider packing the shirt as-is. Like with dress pants, long, continuous vertical creases look better on dress shirts than horizontal folds do. The former resemble the types of creases that can result from ironing, while the latter generally look like nothing other than what they are. Because of this, if you have room in your suitcase, you may want to place the shirt in now , rather than after the next fold. If you have a bag that's big enough to hold the shirt in its current partly-folded state, use it. If not, you can try bunching up the bottom of the shirt in the bag - since this part of your shirt will be covered by your jacket, it's not as important for it to be 100% wrinkle-free. Fold the shirt horizontally in half. If you don't have enough space to put your shirt in your suitcase halfway-folded or simply aren't worried about wrinkles, continue folding. Grab the bottom edge of the shirt (including the sleeves) and bring it up to the shoulders. Flip the shirt over - it should be a nice, tidy square with the collar and buttons centered in the middle. If you laid a dry cleaning bag in the middle of your shirt at the beginning of this method, it will protect your shirt from pressing against itself at this point. You can also get a similar effect by slipping a flat cardboard insert between the two halves of the folded shirt. Place the shirt in a bag. Place the folded shirt in a dry cleaning bag or a large ziplock bag and seal the bag. As noted above, you may want to trap a small amount of air in the bag along with the shirt to create a protective bubble that can help prevent the other items in the suitcase from pressing on the shirt. Lay the shirt in your suitcase. Ensure the shirt sits face-up in the suitcase and that nothing heavy or hard is packed on top of it. Ideally, the shirt should be surrounded with flat, folded fabric clothing. Upon arrival, unpack your suitcase and inspect your shirt for wrinkles. Hang the shirt immediately or iron. If the shirt has wrinkles, see if where you're staying offers pressing services to help smooth out the fabric again.	Clean and press your suit before you travel. Turn the jacket inside out. Pop the shoulders inside out. Fold the jacket vertically. Fold the jacket in half horizontally. Place the jacket in a plastic bag. Lay the wrapped jacket in your suitcase. Unfold your jacket at your destination. Fold the pants along their pleats. Roll the pants to save space. Fold horizontally with caution. To begin, button the shirt and lay it face-down on a flat surface. Fold the edges of the shirt inward. Fold the sleeves down along the new edges. Consider packing the shirt as-is. Fold the shirt horizontally in half. Place the shirt in a bag. Lay the shirt in your suitcase.
https://www.wikihow.com/Write-a-Financial-Report	How to Write a Financial Report	To write a financial report, format a balance sheet that lists assets, liabilities, and equity. Combine the totals for each category and include the final total at the bottom of the sheet. Next, create an income statement page to list revenue, cost of goods sold, operating expenses, and retained earnings, then sum those categories. Lastly, create a cash flows statement page to compile operating, investing, and financing activities and include a sum at the bottom.	Decide on a time frame. Before you begin, you will need to determine the period of time your financial report will cover. Most financial reports are prepared quarterly and annually, although some companies also prepare them on a monthly basis. To determine the period of time your financial report should cover, review the governing documents of your organization, such as the bylaws, corporate charter or articles of incorporation. These documents may describe how often the financial report should be prepared. Ask an executive at your organization how frequently reports are expected to be prepared. If you are the executive of your own organization, consider when the financial report would be most useful to you and select that as your financial report date. Review your ledgers. Next, you'll need to make sure everything in your ledgers is up to date and properly recorded. Your financial report will not be useful to readers unless the underlying accounting data is correct. For example, make sure all accounts payable and receivable have been processed, verify that the bank reconciliation is complete, and ascertain whether all inventory purchases and product sales have been recorded. You'll also need to consider any liabilities that may be unrecorded as of the financial report date. For example, has the company received any services that have not been invoiced? Are employees owed wages that have not yet been paid? These items represent accrued liabilities and must be recorded in the financial statements. Gather any missing information. If your review of the ledgers reveals any missing information, track down any pertinent documents you'll need to ensure that your financial report is complete and correct. Set up the balance sheet page. A balance sheet shows the company's assets (what it owns), liabilities (what it owes) and equity accounts, such as common stock and additional paid-in capital for a specific date. Title the first page of your financial report “Balance Sheet” and then list the organization's name and the balance sheet's effective date. The balance sheet items are reported as of a specific day of the year. For example, the balance may be prepared as of December 31. Format your balance sheet appropriately. Most balance sheets feature assets on the left and liabilities/equity on the right. Alternatively, some may show assets on top and liabilities/equity below. List your assets. Add the title “Assets” to first section of the balance sheet, then list the different assets held by the company. Start with current assets, such as cash and any items that will be converted to cash within one year of the balance sheet date. At the end of this section, include a subtotal of the current assets. Next, list the non-current assets. Non-current assets are defined as any assets that are not in the form of cash and will not be converted to cash any time soon. For example, property, equipment and notes receivable are non-current assets. Include a subtotal of the non-current assets. Finally, sum the current and non-current subtotals and label this line “Total Assets.” List your liabilities. The next section of the balance sheet shows the liabilities and equity accounts. This section of the balance sheet should be titled “Liabilities and Equity.” Begin by listing current liabilities. These are liabilities that are due within one year, and typically include accounts payable, accrued liabilities and the short-term portion of mortgages and other loan payments. Include a subtotal of the current liabilities. Next, include the long-term liabilities. These are any liabilities that will not be settled within one year, such as long-term debt and notes payable. Include a subtotal of long-term liabilities. Sum the current and non-current subtotals and label this line “Total Liabilities.” List all sources of equity. The equity section of the balance sheet comes after the liabilities portion and shows the amount of money the company would have left if all its assets were sold and liabilities paid off. Here, make a list of all the equity accounts, such as common stock, treasury stock and retained earnings. Once all the equity accounts are listed, sum them and add the caption “Total Equity.” Add up the liabilities and equity. Combine the totals from “Total Liabilities” and “Total Equity” sections together. Title this “Total Liabilities and Equity.” Check the balance. The figures you have calculated for “Total Assets” and “Total Liabilities and Equity” must be equal on the balance sheet. If this is the case, then your balance sheet is now complete and you can begin preparing the income statement. Shareholder's equity should correspond to a company's assets minus its liabilities. As mentioned previously, this is the money that would be left over if all assets were sold and all liabilities paid. Hence, liabilities plus equity should be equal to assets. If the balance sheet does not balance, double check your work. You may have omitted or miscategorized one of your accounts. Double check each column individually and make sure everything is included that ought to be. You may have missed a valuable asset, or a significant liability. Set up the income statement page. The income statement shows how much money a company earned and spent over a period time. Title this page of your report “Income Statement” and list the organization's name and the period of time the income statement will cover. For example, an income statement is often drafted for the period from January 1 to December 31 of a particular year. Note that it is possible to prepare a financial report for a single quarter or month, while your income statement might be for a full year. Your financial report will be easier for readers to understand if they are for the same period, but this isn't strictly necessary. List sources of revenue. List the different sources of income and the amounts that were earned. Be sure to report each type of revenue separately, adjusted as necessary for any sales discounts or return allowances, for example: “Sales, $10,000” and “Service Income, $5,000.” Organize the sources of revenue in a way that is meaningful to the company. Some options may be revenue by geographical region, by management team or by specific product. When all revenue sources have been included, sum them and report the total as “Total Revenue.” Report the costs of goods sold. This is the total cost of developing or manufacturing your product or providing your service in the reporting period. To calculate a cost of goods, you should add the direct materials, direct labor, factory costs and shipping or delivery expenses. Subtract cost of goods sold from total revenue and title this number “Gross Profit.” Record operating expenses. Operating expenses include all of the expenses that are necessary for conducting your business. This includes general and administrative expenses, such as salaries, rent, utilities and depreciation of properties. It also includes advertising and research and development expenses. You may want to record these expenses separately so that the readers of your report can get an overall idea of where money is being spent. Subtract the sum of these costs from your gross profit and title this number “Profit Before Taxes.” Include retained earnings. "Retained earnings" refers the sum of all net income and net losses since the organization was founded. Adding retained earnings from the beginning of the year to the current year's net income or loss results in the total retained earnings balance. Set up your cash flows statement page. This statement tracks the sources and uses of cash by the company. Title this page “Statement of Cash Flows” and list the organization's name and the period of time the statement will cover. Similar to the income statement, the statement of cash flows covers a period of time, such as January 1 to December 31. Create an operating activities section. The statement of cash flows begins with a section you should title “Cash Flows from Operating Activities.” This section corresponds to the income statement you already prepared. List the operating activities of the organization. This may include items such as cash receipts from sales and cash paid for inventory. Subtotal these items and label the resulting total “Net Cash Provided by Operating Activities.” Create an investing activities section. Add a section titled “Cash Flows from Investing Activities.” This section corresponds to the balance sheet already prepared. This section relates to cash paid or received from investments in property and equipment, or investments in securities, such as stocks and bonds. Add a subtotal called “Net Cash Provided by Investing Activities.” Include financing activities. The last section of this page should be titled “Cash Flows from Financing Activities.” This section relates to the equity portion of the balance sheet. This section should shows inflows and outflows from securities and debt issued by the organization. Add a subtotal called “Net Cash Provided by Financing Activities.” Sum up the categories. Sum the three categories in the statement of cash flows, and label this number as the "Increase or Decrease in Cash" during the period. You can add the increase or decrease in cash to the cash balance at the beginning of the period. The sum of these two numbers should equal the cash balance shown on your balance sheet. Add any important notes or narrative. Financial reports often include a section called “Notes to the Financial Statements,” which contain significant information about the company. Consider what additional information about the finances of the organization would be most useful to include in the “Notes” and then add this information to your report. The notes might contain information about company history, future plans or industry information. This is your opportunity to explain to investors what the report means and what it shows or doesn't show. It can help potential investors see the company through your eyes. Typically, the notes also include an explanation of accounting practices and procedures used by the company and explanations of balance sheet captions. This section also often includes details about the company's tax situation, pension plans, and stock options.	Decide on a time frame. Review your ledgers. Gather any missing information. Set up the balance sheet page. Format your balance sheet appropriately. List your assets. List your liabilities. List all sources of equity. Add up the liabilities and equity. Check the balance. Set up the income statement page. List sources of revenue. Report the costs of goods sold. Record operating expenses. Include retained earnings. Set up your cash flows statement page. Create an operating activities section. Create an investing activities section. Include financing activities. Sum up the categories. Add any important notes or narrative.
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Compass	How to Use a Compass	To use a compass, hold the compass flat on your outspread hand in front of your chest. Next, turn the degree dial so that the orienting arrow lines up with the magnetic arrow inside the compass. Then, look at the travel arrow on the baseplate of the compass to tell you which direction you're facing. For example, if you want to find which direction is North, rotate slowly with the compass until the travel arrow is pointing to the N on the dial.	Understand the basic layout of the compass. While the designs of compasses are different, all compasses include a magnetized needle that orients itself to the magnetic fields in the Earth. The basic field compass, also sometimes called a baseplate compass, features the following simple components you should familiarize yourself with as soon as possible: The baseplate is the clear, plastic plate on which the compass is embedded. The direction of travel arrow is the arrow in the baseplate pointing away from the compass. The compass housing is the clear, plastic circle that houses the magnetized compass needle. The degree dial is the twistable dial surrounding the compass housing that displays all 360 degrees of the circle. The magnetic needle is the needle spinning within the compass housing. The orienting arrow is the non-magnetic arrow within the compass housing. The orienting lines are the lines within the compass housing that run parallel to the orienting arrow. Hold the compass correctly. Place the compass flat on your palm and your palm in front of your chest. This is the proper compass stance, when traveling. If you're consulting a map, place the map on a flat surface and place the compass on the map to get a more accurate reading. Find out where you're facing. For a quick basic exercise to orient yourself, it's good to find out which direction you're currently facing or traveling. Look at the magnetic needle. It should swing off to one side or another, unless you're facing North. Turn the degree dial until the orienting arrow lines up with the magnetic arrow, pointing them both North, and then find the general direction you're facing by looking at the direction of travel arrow. If the direction of travel arrow is now between the N and the E, say, you're facing Northeast. Find where the direction of travel arrow intersects with the degree dial. To take a more accurate reading, look closely at the degree markers on the compass. If it intersects at 23, you're facing 23 degrees Northeast. Understand the difference between "true" North and "magnetic" North. While it might seem confusing that there are two kinds of "North," it's a basic distinction that you can learn quickly, and it's an essential piece of information to learn to use a compass properly. True North or Map North refers to the point at which all longitudinal lines meet on the map, at the North Pole. All maps are laid out the same, with True North at the top of the map. Unfortunately, because of slight variations in the magnetic field, your compass won't point to True North, it'll point to Magnetic North. Magnetic North refers to the tilt of the magnetic field, about eleven degrees from the tilt of the Earth's axis, making the difference between True North and Magnetic North different by as many as 20 degrees in some places. Depending where you are on the surface of the Earth, you'll have to account for the Magnetic shift to get an accurate reading. While the difference may seem incidental, traveling just one degree off for the distance of a mile will have you about 100 feet (30.5 m) off track. Think of how off you'll be after ten or twenty miles. It's important to compensate by taking the declination into account. Learn to correct for declination. Declination refers to the amount by which North on your map and North on your compass differ at any given point, given the Earth's magnetic field. To make using the compass much easier, you can correct for declination by either adding or subtracting the declination amount from your bearing in degrees, depending on whether you're taking a bearing from a map or from your compass, and whether or not you're in an area with East declination or West declination. In the US, the line of zero declination runs up through Alabama, Illinois, and Wisconsin, at a slight diagonal. East of that line, declination orients toward the West, meaning that Magnetic North is several degrees West of True North. West of that line, the opposite is true. Find out the declination in the area in which you'll be traveling so you can compensate for it. Say you take a bearing on your compass in an area with West declination. You'll add the number of degrees necessary to get the correct corresponding bearing on your map. In an area with East declination, you'll subtract. Gather your bearings to find out which direction you're headed. When you're hiking around in the woods or in the field, it's good to periodically check your bearings to make sure you're going in the direction you intend. To do this, move the compass until the direction of travel arrow is pointing in the direction you've been traveling and will continue traveling. Unless you're heading north, the magnetic needle will spin off to one side. Twist the degree dial until the orienting arrow lines up with the north end of the magnetic needle. Once they're aligned, this will tell you where your direction of travel arrow is pointing. Take off local magnetic variation by twisting the degree dial the correct number of degrees to the left or right, depending on the declination. See where the direction of travel arrow lines up with the degree dial. Continue moving in this direction. To do so, simply hold the compass in the proper stance, turn your body until the north end of the magnetic needle once again aligns with the orienting needle, and follow the direction of travel arrow. Check your compass as often as you need to, but be sure not to accidentally twist the degree dial from its current position. Focus on points in the distance. To accurately follow the direction of travel arrow, look down at the arrow, then focus on a distant object like a tree, telephone pole, or other landmark, and use this as a guide. Don't focus on anything too distant, like a mountain, as huge objects aren't precise enough to navigate by accurately. Once you reach each guide point, use your compass to find another. If visibility is limited and you cannot see any distant objects, use another member of your walking party (if applicable). Stand still, then ask them to walk away from you in the direction indicated by the direction of travel arrow. Call out to them to correct their direction as they walk. When they approach the edge of visibility, ask them to wait until you catch up. Repeat as necessary. Transpose the direction of travel onto your map. Place your map on a horizontal surface, then place the compass on the map so that the orienting arrow points to true north on the map. If you know your current position on the map, slide your compass around so that its edge passes through your current position, but its orienting arrow continues to point north. Draw a line along the compass edge and through your current position. If you maintain this bearing, your path from your current position will be along the line you just drew on your map. Learn to take a bearing from the map. To find out which direction you need to travel to get somewhere, place the map on a horizontal surface and place your compass on the map. Using the edge of the compass as a ruler, place it so that it creates a line between your current position and where you intend to go. Rotate the degree dial until the orienting arrow points to true north on the map. This will also align the compass's orienting lines with the map's north-south lines. Once the degree dial is in place, put the map away. In this case, you'll correct for declination by adding the appropriate number of degrees in areas with West declination, and subtracting in areas with East declination. This is the opposite of what you'll do when first taking your bearing from the compass, making this an important distinction. Use the new bearing to navigate. Hold the compass horizontally in front of you with the direction of travel arrow pointing away from you. Use this arrow to guide you to your destination. Turn your body until the north end of the magnetic needle is aligned with the orienting needle, and you'll be properly oriented toward the destination on the map. Choose three prominent landmarks that you can both see and find them on your map. One of the most difficult and advanced things you can do with a compass, but one of the most important, is finding out where you are when you don't know your exact location on the map. By locating distinctive landmarks you can see on your map, ideally as widely spread around your field of view as possible, you can get yourself re-oriented. Aim the direction of travel arrow at the first landmark. Unless the landmark is north of you, the magnetic needle will spin off to one side. Twist the degree dial until the orienting arrow lines up with the north end of the magnetic needle. Once they are aligned, this will tell you where your direction of travel arrow is pointing. Correct for declination, depending on your area. Transpose the direction of the landmark onto your map. Place your map on a horizontal surface and then place the compass on the map so that the orienting arrow points to true north on the map. Then, slide your compass around so that its edge passes through the landmark on the map, while the orienting arrow continues to point north. Triangulate your position. Draw a line along the compass' edge and through your approximate position. This is the first of three lines you will draw to find your position by forming a triangle with the other two landmarks. Repeat this process for the other two landmarks. When you're done, you will have three lines that form a triangle on your map. Your position is inside this triangle, the size of which depends on the accuracy of your bearings. More accurate bearings reduce the size of the triangle and, with lots of practice, you may get the lines to intersect at one point.	Understand the basic layout of the compass. Hold the compass correctly. Find out where you're facing. Understand the difference between "true" North and "magnetic" North. Learn to correct for declination. Gather your bearings to find out which direction you're headed. Continue moving in this direction. Focus on points in the distance. Transpose the direction of travel onto your map. Learn to take a bearing from the map. Use the new bearing to navigate. Choose three prominent landmarks that you can both see and find them on your map. Aim the direction of travel arrow at the first landmark. Transpose the direction of the landmark onto your map. Triangulate your position.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Organized-in-High-School	How to Get Organized in High School	To get organized in high school, start by keeping track of your schedule in a paper or digital planner. In your planner, write down everything, like homework, test dates, social plans, and extracurriculars. To stay on track, add to-do lists to your planner daily to hold you accountable. Make the lists complete by including substeps like, “review biology notes,” and, “finish biology practice problems,” instead of the general, “study for biology.”	Buy a planner. A planner is an easy way to keep track of your schedule and stay organized. As a student, you're probably on the go a lot. It's a good idea to choose a planner that is small enough that you can easily carry it or find room for it in your backpack. There are also school planner apps available for your smartphone. They show you your timetable and you can write notes or tips or reminders. Look at several planners before choosing one. You might like one that has daily pages, or you might prefer weekly or monthly pages. Write down all of your to-do items and scheduled activities in your planner. Jazz it up by using fun pen colors or stickers! Use an app to keep track of your schedule. If a traditional planner isn't for you, that's okay! You can find an app on your phone that will help you keep track of your schedule. The bonus is that you will probably always have your calendar on hand. Try Any.do to keep track of reminders and events. Try Listastic to manage multiple to-do lists. Try Focus Booster to help you divide your schedule into manageable chunks. To develop your time management skills, check out Steven Covey's Theory of Prioritization. This breaks down your tasks into important/not important and urgent/not-urgent, which can help you plan ahead for important long-term projects so you don't have to write a whole persuasive essay in one night! Make a to-do list for each day. When you have a lot of tasks to juggle, it can be easy to forget 1 or 2 of them. Instead of stressing about forgetting something, write down a list of things you need to do each day. You could either make your lists at the beginning of the week or each night before you go to bed. Your list might look something like this: Go to soccer practice. Study for Biology quiz. Take the dog for a walk. Take my turn making dinner. Schedule even small activities. You can manage to stay on track if you make your calendar really detailed. It might seem unnecessary, but you can save a lot of stress if you set aside time for even the smallest tasks. You might not think of these as scheduled activities, but you should mark out time for them even if they just take a few minutes. As a bonus, you'll get great satisfaction from crossing lots of things off your list each day! Some short tasks you might list include: Setting out your clothes for the next day. Packing your lunch. Sending a birthday card to your grandmother. Watching the latest episode of your favorite show. Commit to just a few extracurricular activities. It might be tempting to join a club just because your friends are in it or run for a leadership position just because it will look good on your college application. But the quality of your involvement is more important that the quantity. Choose one or two activities that you really care about and participate in them. Concentrate your energy on doing something that you love. If you are passionate about the environment, see if your club has an Environmental Club that you can join. If you're really into music, you might want to invest your time in playing in the marching band or singing in a choir. Create realistic goals. As a high school student, studying probably takes up a lot of your time. Work on finding study methods that work best for you so that you can save time. Start by setting some clear goals for yourself. Create both long-term and short-term goals. Write down things like: Get an A in Biology. Pass the AP exam in History. Improve grade on next French quiz. Write down all of the steps necessary to achieve those goals. After you list all of your goals, break each one down into manageable steps. Make sure to jot down any important dates, like exam days. This will help you make sure that any major deadlines don't sneak up on you. For example, if your goal is to get an A in Biology, you might write down steps such as: Review notes for 10 minutes each night. Start studying for tests 1 week before the test day. Ask teacher for extra credit assignments. Find a study method that works with your learning style. Some people are visual learners while others do best listening to material. Try out a few different ways of studying to see what works for you. If you find that flashcards really help you retain information, you're probably a visual learner. If you do better when a friend verbally quizzes you, you're more of an auditory learner. It also helps to use multiple learning styles as opposed to just one. Experiment with different methods. You can always use more than 1 way to study! Feel free to use different methods during the same study session. If you're a kinesthetic learner, try studying someplace where you can stand up and walk around, and maybe even draw out your thinking on a whiteboard. Make time to study every day. You can stay organized by creating an effective study schedule. That means setting aside a little bit of time for school work each day. It's easy to find little pieces of time in your schedule each day. It's much harder to find hours in a day each time you need to cram for a test or write a big paper. Studying in small chunks will also help you better retain information. Aim for about an hour each day. Set up a good study space. If you have a go-to study spot, you won't have to waste time looking for a place to study each day. Set up an area in your house where you can do your homework undisturbed. It might be a desk in your bedroom or a quiet corner in the den. Try to choose a spot that doesn't have a television. Make it clear to your family members that you don't want to be disturbed when you're in your study spot. Set yourself up for success by gathering all the supplies you'll need. Grab your books, notes, and computer. Don't forget to grab something to drink and a healthy snack! If you can't find the perfect study spot at home, consider going to either your local or school library. Keep in mind your learning style when choosing a study space. For instance, if you're an auditory learner you probably want to be someplace quiet, where you won't get distracted and confused by the noises around you. Map out your classes early in your high school career. Colleges are typically looking for students who have a wide breadth of knowledge. This means that you should try to take a variety of classes in a number of fields. Begin planning your classes as early as your freshman year to make sure you fit everything in. Don't worry, you'll still have time to take classes that interest you! Plan to take classes in each of these areas: English. Take an English class each year and aim for a mix of writing and literature courses, if your school offers all of these options. Math. Take at least 3 years of high school math. Look for a combination of Algebra I, Algebra II, Geometry, Trigonometry, and Calculus. Science. Take at least 3 years of high school science. Try a combination of Biology, Chemistry, Physics, and Earth Science. Social Studies. Take at least 3 years in this area, with a mix of U.S. history, world history, and government classes. Foreign Language. Colleges like to see students with a good foundation of foreign language skills, so take at least 3 years in high school. Arts. Colleges look for well-rounded students, so take at least 2 years of art courses. These might be studio art, music, or drama. Challenge yourself with AP courses or honors courses. You can really help yourself feel ready for college by taking some more difficult high school courses. Look through the offerings of AP and honors classes and choose a couple to take. Choose classes that play to your strengths. For example, if you're great with words, you might want to take honors English instead of AP physics. You might also be able to get college credit or place out of entrance exams by taking these types of classes. Prepare for important tests like the SATs and other entrance exams. Most colleges in the U.S. require you to take the SAT to gain admission. This might seem really daunting, but don't worry! There are lots of ways you can prepare. Start by choosing the date of your exam well in advance and creating a study schedule for yourself. You can take review and prep courses in person or online. These are really helpful and can make you feel much more confident. Meet with your guidance counselor to discuss your plans. Your college counselor can be a great resource! They can offer you personalized advice about your high school and college plans. Make an appointment to meet with the counselor and discuss any questions you have. You can ask the counselor about the best classes to take, wise extracurricular choices, and about which colleges they might recommend. Plan ahead to meet your college application deadlines. College applications take a lot of work, but with careful planning, you can make sure to get everything done. Applications are typically due in the fall, so you'll want to be working on your applications over the summer. Start by making a list of the colleges you want to apply to and gathering all of the application information. Make a list of important things to remember, such as: The date when each application is due. Who will provide your recommendations and when you will request them. A schedule for working on each application and when you will complete it. It's a good idea to start with the application that is due first.	Buy a planner. Use an app to keep track of your schedule. Make a to-do list for each day. Schedule even small activities. Commit to just a few extracurricular activities. Create realistic goals. Write down all of the steps necessary to achieve those goals. Find a study method that works with your learning style. Make time to study every day. Set up a good study space. Map out your classes early in your high school career. Challenge yourself with AP courses or honors courses. Prepare for important tests like the SATs and other entrance exams. Meet with your guidance counselor to discuss your plans. Plan ahead to meet your college application deadlines.
https://www.wikihow.com/Spool-New-Fishing-Line-Onto-a-Reel	How to Spool New Fishing Line Onto a Reel	If you want to spool new fishing line onto a closed face reel, unscrew the face of the reel and unwind any old line that is left in it. Then, feed your new line through the pole's guides by starting at the tip and working towards the reel. Next, feed the line through the hole in the reel's cap and tie it to the reel. Use the handle to wind the string onto the reel in the same direction the reel spins. Finally, screw the cap back on and cut off any extra line.	Open the bail by lifting the wire arm. On spinning reels, the bail is the little wire arm hanging off the reel. Lift the line up to open the bail, and lift it down to close the bail. Unwrap any old line still in place. Baitcasters don't have a bail, so you won't need to do this step. Run the new line through the line guides. The line guides are the small loops hanging off the underside of the rod. Start at the far end of the rod, pushing the line through the loops and towards the reel. For a Baitcaster rod, look for a little hole in the reel. You'll also need to run the line through this guide to get it into the bail. Knot the line on the reel spool. Wrap the end of the fishing line over the spool, which is the indentation in the middle of the reel. Bring the end of the line back towards you and tie the line together in an arbor knot. An arbor knot is done by first tying an overhand knot. Tie a second overhand knot at the free end of the line. Then pull both knots tight against the reel. Close the bail by lowering the wire arm. Pull the wire arm as far down as it will go. This locks the line in place. If the line comes undone, you'll need to lift up the bail and redo the knot. Crank the rod’s handle to figure out which way the bail rotates. Make note of the direction the bail rotates, since the line needs to be loaded in the same direction. Drop the spool of new fishing line on the floor with the label facing upwards and adjust the position of the rod so the line can be loaded correctly.. For example, if your bail rotates clockwise, stand to the left of the spool so the line wraps clockwise around it. For Baitcaster rods, you'll need to stick a pencil through the spool and have someone else hold it. Alternatively, purchase a reel spooler or make one by placing the spool on a screwdriver pushed through a cardboard box. Lightly grip the line between your thumb and your index finger. Use your free hand as you hold the rod in your other hand. You'll need to maintain constant pressure. If the line feels taut and doesn't tangle going onto the reel, you're holding it correctly. Turn the rod’s handle 15-20 times. Continue gripping the line as you crank the handle. 15-20 rotations is enough to load the line into the reel. Make sure you keep an eye on the line so it doesn't load with knots or tangles. You'll have to unspool the line to fix this. For knots or tangles, gently pull the line back off the reel. Tug on the loop of line in the tangled part and it'll unravel. Drop the line to test it for tangles. Let go of the line and watch it drop towards the ground. You'll immediately notice any twists or loops in the line. To compensate, flip the spool of new fishing line so that the label faces the ground. Make sure the line continues to load in the same direction the bail rotates! Fill the rod’s spool until it’s almost full. Pinch the line again between your thumb and index finger so it stays straight, then rotate the rod's crank. Load the line until the reel is almost full. The line should be about ⁄ 8 in (0.32 cm) below the spool's rim. Cut the line to detach it from the new spool to finish. Secure the line to the reel with a rubber band. Simply place a rubber band around the line on the reel to hold it in place. If your reel has a tab on the side, wrapping the line around it will also hold everything in place. Unscrew the face of the reel. Before you can spool the line, remove the top part of the reel. Twist is counterclockwise until it's loose enough to pull off the reel. Some beginner-friendly models have a button you can press to pop off this cap. Unwind any old line left over by spinning the handle. Close-faced and Spincast are different names for the same reel. You'll know you have one if it has this cover you need to unscrew to reach the reel's spool. Insert the line through line guides at the rod’s tip. Look for the small rings hanging off the bottom of the rod. Starting at the rod's tip, run the new line through the holes towards the reel. Push the line into the hole on the reel’s cap. Pick up the cap and run the line through the hole in the top. If you don't do this now, you won't be able to get the cap on later when you need it. Don't attach the cap to the rest of the reel yet. Wind the line around the spool in the same direction the reel turns. Like with the other types of rods, the rod's spool will have a small hollow in the middle where the line rests. Wrap it around this hollow twice so that you'll have enough to line to tie in place. Always make sure the line goes on the same way the reel rotates. If it rotates clockwise, the line should be wrapped around it counterclockwise. The direction of the rotation depends on the fishing pole. Tie the end of the line into a knot. Knot it against the reel so the line doesn't come undone. You can do this with a slip knot , clinch knot , or arbor knot. Make sure the line is securely tied and tight before you move on. Pinch the line between your thumb and index finger. Use your free hand to apply a light amount of pressure on the line as you spool it onto the reel. This will keep the line tense, preventing it from tangling. Crank the handle to load the line. Hold the line taut between your thumb and index finger, applying a little bit of pressure to keep the line straight. Turn the handle in the same direction you loaded the line, which should have been the same direction the reel normally rotates to unspool the line. For example, if you spooled the line counterclockwise, crank the handle counterclockwise. Spool the line until the reel is almost full. Load the line, but don't fill the reel completely. The line should be about ⁄ 8 inch (0.32 cm) below the spool's rim. The line should hang from the rest of the rod with no slack. Adding too much can make the line come undone, so you'll have to spool it all over again. Put the cover back on the reel. Grab the reel's cover, which should have already been threaded with the new line. Twist it clockwise onto the reel to secure it in place. If you left the cover off, unwind all of the thread. You'll need a lot of space for this, so try walking around and hanging the line on fences or other objects so it stays untangled. Then spool the line through the cover and onto the reel. Cut the fishing line off the spool. Go back to the tip of the rod. Get a pair of scissors and snip the line beyond the tip's end. Avoid clipping the line that's hanging from the line guides under the rod. Purchase backing and fishing line from a supply store. Fly fishing line uses at least 2 different types of line. You'll need to get a spool of backing and a spool of fishing line. For a stronger line that catches more fish, invest in leader line and tipping. Backing line is the heaviest and cheapest type. Get some marked with a weight of 20 to 30 lb (9.1 to 13.6 kg). It'll be about 20 ft (6.1 m) long. Look on your rod to find a number signifying the the weight of fly line you'll need. These lines are typically around 80 to 90 ft (24 to 27 m) long. Get leader line that's tapered and made of monofilament or fluorocarbon. You'll need a roll about 9 ft (2.7 m) long, although you can lengthen it for deeper waters and shorten it for shallow water or windy conditions. Purchase 2 to 4 ft (0.61 to 1.22 m) of tippet line that's thinner than the leader line. It's rated on an X scale, where 01X to 08X are strong enough for large fish like striped bass and lines from 1X to 8X are for smaller fish like trout. Knot the backing line to your reel. Wrap the end of the backing line around the groove in the spool. Bring it all the way around and back up to your hand. Beyond the reel, tie the end of the backing to the rest of the line with an arbor knot. Feed the line in the same direction the reel spins. No matter the line, put it on the line the same way the reel normally rotates. For a reel that spins clockwise, the line should always be spooled on clockwise too. Ask someone to help you spool the line. Get them to wear thick gloves. They should hold the line between their thumb and index finger as you spool it. Keep a firm grasp on the line, applying light pressure as you load the line onto the reel. If you can't find someone to help you, take the reel to a tackle shop. They will will spool the line for you. It's important to do this with every line in order to prevent tangles. Spool the backing onto the reel. Let between 50 to 100 yd (46 to 91 m) out of the spool. Wrap it tightly on the reel. Do this by hand unless you've got a spooling machine on hand. Sever the line with scissors when you're done. Knot the fly line to the backing. Unwind a little bit of the fly line from the spool. Pick up the end of the backing line that's on your reel, then tie them together with an Albright knot. Make sure the knot feels secure so you don't lose your fly line while fishing! For the Albright knot, make a loop with the heavier line. Run the lighter line through it and wrap it 10 times over the heavier line back towards the loop. Bring it back down through the loop and pull the the lines tight. Wind the line until the reel is almost full. Wind the line the same way you did with the backing. The fly line will fill up most of the reel and should be about ⁄ 8 in (0.32 cm) below the reel's lip. If you don't plan on adding a leader or tippet line, you're done spooling new line. Tie the fly line to the leader line if you are adding it. In case you are adding leader line, take the end of the fly line and tie it to the end of the leader line. Another Albright knot works here, but a nail knot leads to a smoother line. It involves looping the lines around a pen or other object to tie them together. You can purchase a nail knot tool to help with this kind of knot. Wind the optional leader line onto your reel. Wind the line by hand or by using the spooling machine. Get it as tight over the fly line as you can make it. It'll protect your fly line and make it more visible to the fish. Tie the leader line to a tippet line you wish to add. You don't have to add a tippet line, but it's easier to the tie to the fly. The easiest way to tie these lines is with a double surgeon's knot. You'll place the lines side by side, facing opposite directions before looping them into a knot. Spool the entire tippet line onto your reel when done. Secure the fly to end of the line. Take about 5 to 6 in (13 to 15 cm) of the last line on your reel and pull it through the eye of the fly's hook. The improved clinch knot or turtle knot are both good options for securing the fly. Get the knot as tight as you can make it, then trim off the end of the line before going fishing.	Open the bail by lifting the wire arm. Run the new line through the line guides. Knot the line on the reel spool. Close the bail by lowering the wire arm. Crank the rod’s handle to figure out which way the bail rotates. Lightly grip the line between your thumb and your index finger. Turn the rod’s handle 15-20 times. Drop the line to test it for tangles. Fill the rod’s spool until it’s almost full. Secure the line to the reel with a rubber band. Unscrew the face of the reel. Insert the line through line guides at the rod’s tip. Push the line into the hole on the reel’s cap. Wind the line around the spool in the same direction the reel turns. Tie the end of the line into a knot. Pinch the line between your thumb and index finger. Crank the handle to load the line. Spool the line until the reel is almost full. Put the cover back on the reel. Cut the fishing line off the spool. Purchase backing and fishing line from a supply store. Knot the backing line to your reel. Feed the line in the same direction the reel spins. Ask someone to help you spool the line. Spool the backing onto the reel. Knot the fly line to the backing. Wind the line until the reel is almost full. Tie the fly line to the leader line if you are adding it. Wind the optional leader line onto your reel. Tie the leader line to a tippet line you wish to add. Secure the fly to end of the line.
https://www.wikihow.com/Fix-Scratches-in-Furniture	How to Fix Scratches in Furniture	To fix scratches in your wooden furniture, try using a wood-colored felt tip. You can find felt tips in a variety of wood tones to match your furniture in home improvement and hardware stores. Just rub the marker on the scratch to blend it in with the wood. Or, use a shelled walnut, which works great on light scratches. To use instant coffee to cover up scratches, just mix 1 tablespoon of coffee granules with a little hot water to make a thick paste. Then, rub the paste onto the scratch with a cotton ball and wipe away an excess with a dry cloth.	Clean the damaged area thoroughly with a mild soap solution. Combine 1–2 teaspoons (4.9–9.9 mL) of mild liquid dish soap with about ⁄ 2 gallon (1.9 L) of warm water in a large container. Dampen a soft, clean cloth with the soap solution and use it to remove dust, dirt, grime, and leftover polish from the area around the scratch. After cleaning, wipe up any standing water and allow the surface to air dry completely. A microfiber or terry cloth towel will be perfect for cleaning wood furniture. Both materials are ultra-soft, which means you won't be risking further scratches. Choose a marker in a color that matches the piece’s finish. Visit your local hardware store or home improvement center and head to the paint and finish aisle. There, you'll find furniture touch-up markers in a wide variety of colors. Pick out a shade that most closely resembles the tone of the damaged wood. If you're not sure which color to go with, consider getting more than one. That way, you'll have a better chance of finding a good match and spare yourself a second trip. Some furniture stores may also carry touch-up markers for DIY home repairs. Glide the tip of the marker over the scratch until it disappears. Touch-up markers work just like any other marker. Go over the spot as many times as needed to cover up the damage completely. It can help to move the marker in multiple directions from several different angles. Allow the ink to soak into the exposed wood for at least 20-30 seconds before moving on to the next step. Be careful not to spread the ink to any part of the surrounding finish. If you accidentally get ink somewhere it's not supposed to be, wipe it up immediately with a damp cloth to keep it from staining. Blot the repaired scratch with a paper towel to remove excess color. When you're satisfied with the coverage you've achieved, fold a paper towel and use it to lightly dab at the freshly recolored area. Doing so will soak up any ink standing on the surface of the wood, preventing it from running, bleeding, or causing moisture-related complications. Dispose of the paper towel right away after use. Be sure to keep it away from other nearby objects and surfaces to avoid transferring the color. Purchase one or more wax filler sticks designed for use on wood surfaces. Most home improvement centers and hardware stores stock these handy little items with paint and other finishing products. Select a stick in a color similar to that of the piece you're rescuing. If you're torn between two colors, it's usually safer to go with the darker one, as shades that are a bit too light tend to be more noticeable than those that are a bit too dark. While you're at it, go ahead and pick up a canister of paste wax, as well. You'll be using this wax to seal the newly-repaired finish. Sand rough, uneven scratches with high-grit sandpaper before filling them. Some nicks and gouges have raised edges on one or both sides. Run your finger over the scratch. If there's a marked textural difference, take a sheet of sandpaper and buff the area lightly until it's completely level. For best results, use a sheet that's at least 600-grit. Coarser sandpapers are more likely to leave scratches, which is exactly the issue you're trying to fix. Restrict your sanding to the scratch itself. Otherwise, you may inadvertently harm the finish on an adjacent part of the piece. Rub the stick over the gouge until it’s slightly overfilled. Hold the stick against the surface of the piece at an angle and push it back and forth over the scratch. Work your way along the length of the scratch until the wax builds up into a layer with a uniform texture and the exposed wood is no longer visible. Moving the stick across the scratch rather than parallel with it will force the wax down deeper into the damaged area. If the stick you bought came with an applicator, use it to chip off a small piece of the wax and spread it over the scratch. Scrape off the excess wax using a credit card or similar object. Drag the edge of the card over the filled scratch repeatedly with a light sweeping motion. Use only as much pressure as needed to remove the upper layer of wax. Although a standard credit card is somewhat flexible, it's still rigid enough to cause scratches if you're not careful. Pause periodically and perform a touch test to see whether the area is smooth. Apply a thin, even coat of paste wax over the repaired area. Scoop up a pea-sized glob of the soft wax with a soft, non-shedding cloth. Dab the wax directly onto the filled scratch, then use small, smooth circular motions to buff it to a lustrous finish. You may need to spread on a second coat if you're up against an especially large gouge or chip. Paste wax is derived from the wax of the Brazilian Carnauba tree and is completely safe to use on all types of wood furniture. In addition to sealing the scratch, the wax will also guard the wood against moisture and give it a like-new shine. Even out shallow surface scratches with mineral oil and pumice powder. In a small container, combine equal parts oil and powdered pumice to form a thin paste. Apply a conservative amount of the abrasive paste to the affected area before buffing it thoroughly with extra-fine steel wool scrubbing pad. As you polish, the scratch will vanish before your very eyes. You can snag a bag of powdered pumice for just a few dollars from any major hardware store, as well as some beauty supply stores. The abrasive action of the steel wool and pumice together will gently wear away inconsistencies in the outermost part of the finish while the mineral oil nourishes and protects the wood. Use coffee or tea to mask thin scratches. Pour 3–4 tablespoons (44–59 mL) of hot water into a mug, then add a bag of strong black tea or a scoop of instant coffee. Let the liquid steep for about 5 minutes, then soak up a small amount with a cotton swab and press it firmly into the scratch. When applied to bare wood, natural compounds in the coffee or tea known as tannins will essentially act as a natural stain, darkening the exposed wood by a few shades. Only black tea will produce the desired effect—green, herbal, and other varieties of tea won't impart enough color to disguise most scratches. Hide scratches in dark wood surfaces with iodine. Saturate a cotton swab or small sponge brush with iodine and coax it into the heart of the scratch. Iodine dries to a dark brown color that's ideal for camouflaging imperfections in woods like cherry, mahogany, rosewood, walnut, and teak. Concentrate the iodine inside the scratch itself as best you can. It could stain if it ends up on a neighboring section of the piece. Rub a shelled walnut onto the scratch to magically erase it in seconds. This one couldn't be easier. Just take a walnut, remove the shell, and work it back and forth over the scratch with about the same pressure you would use to erase a pencil mark. Walnuts are rich in earthy oils that can make a fine substitute for finishes of a similar color. You'll get the best results cracking your own raw walnuts, which typically contain higher concentrations of natural oils. If you don't happen to have any walnuts on hand, another type of oily nut, such as pecans or peanuts (or even peanut butter), may also do the trick.	Clean the damaged area thoroughly with a mild soap solution. Choose a marker in a color that matches the piece’s finish. Glide the tip of the marker over the scratch until it disappears. Blot the repaired scratch with a paper towel to remove excess color. Purchase one or more wax filler sticks designed for use on wood surfaces. Sand rough, uneven scratches with high-grit sandpaper before filling them. Rub the stick over the gouge until it’s slightly overfilled. Scrape off the excess wax using a credit card or similar object. Apply a thin, even coat of paste wax over the repaired area. Even out shallow surface scratches with mineral oil and pumice powder. Use coffee or tea to mask thin scratches. Hide scratches in dark wood surfaces with iodine. Rub a shelled walnut onto the scratch to magically erase it in seconds.