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thread-5951 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5951 | Raw material for 3D printed injection mold | 2018-05-10T06:54:49.283 | # Question
Title: Raw material for 3D printed injection mold
If I have to make an injection mold (for resin based raw material) using 3D printing, what raw material should I choose – PLA, ABS, HIPS etc.
# Answer
> 4 votes
P20 mold steel is one standard. Hardened parts are required for long life, depending on the service and material (some materials are quite abrasive).
You can get a small number of relatively poor quality shots out of epoxy if it is properly supported by a metal box. Your best bet if you want to include 3D printing in the equation is probably to use epoxy or lost plastic casting from a 3D-printed master. Aside from the requirements of core and cavity with sufficient strength, there are requirements for vents, cooling tubes (bubblers and such like) ejector pins and slides that complicate most real molds. Productivity demands a high heat transfer rate, for very small quantities of expensive parts, thermal design may be less important.
Temperatures and pressures are very high in injection injection molding- high enough to melt the materials you mention, and the pressures are in the 10K PSI range, so a 4" x 4" projected cavity will have a pressure in the 80 ton region.
If you have sintered and filled metal 3D parts they may be suitable, but from the prices I've seen you'd be better off to use conventional machining. Finish is also very important if you want the part to come out of the mold, with hours of semi-manual polishing not uncommon. If you don't have fine surface finish you will need extreme draft angles.
The requirements can be considerably relaxed if you are molding soft parts such as the PVC or TPE overmolds on cables. The pressure is less and the finish less important because the plastic is soft, but the temperatures are still quite high. This is sort of a sub-category of injection molding and specialized machines are used.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Answers above are correct that no plastic mold will work for actual injection molding. Injection molding by definition requires pressure, pressure that would explode a plastic mold. If on the other hand you really just want to print a mold that you can pour epoxy into to get a shape, then you just need to consider a couple factors.
1. How hot things are going to get since epoxy is exothermic and the thicker the cross section the hotter it'll get.
2. How to keep the epoxy from sticking.
For issue 1 I would pick the material that's available to you with the highest glass transition temperature so it doesn't melt or deform.
For issue 2 I would use mold release compound before you pour in the epoxy and probably pick the plastic with the lowest surface energy.
---
Tags: print-quality, filament-choice, molds
--- |
thread-5954 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5954 | What will be the best way to remove pla from a volcano nozzle? | 2018-05-10T14:06:30.123 | # Question
Title: What will be the best way to remove pla from a volcano nozzle?
My print popped out from the bed and glued to the nozzle. As the printer was printing next hour or so, a lot of pla was extruded and formed on the nozzle.
## I'm wondering what will be the best way to remove pla from the nozzle without overheating wires?
a remark: was trying to heat the nozzle over 180, but I am getting a thermal runout. The pla is hard, I don't want to broke the throat.
# Answer
If you grab the blob with a pliers and twist, all or most of it may pop off. If not, heat the extruder up perhaps 10 degrees higher than usual, and wait for the external gunk to soften up and then pull it off.
### edit :
Well, if it won't get hot enough, then try using an external source such as a soldering iron tip to cut off most of the mess, then it may be time for exacto knife blades and small files to remove the remainder.
Unless you're a clean freak :-) a little residue around the nozzle doesn't matter - it won't touch your prints and at some time in the future it'll be "cooked" enough to fall off.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I would suggests to use a heat gun and carefully warm up the PLA to be soft and remove it carefully like a big piece of Play-Doh. Using the extruder to heat up the PLA don't sound like the best idea, for me, because the inner PLA will be fluid and it could be a bigger mess than it is up to now.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: nozzle
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thread-5967 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5967 | How to add "skin" to a Voronoi shape? | 2018-05-14T11:56:22.840 | # Question
Title: How to add "skin" to a Voronoi shape?
Suppose I'm given a shape with a Voronoi pattern, such as this lamp. I'd like to be able to add a "skin" which covers the complete shape on the inner surface so I could print it with translucent material to produce a more-or-less uniform glow. Here's an example of what I'd like to end up with: tea lamp shade. Any ideas on how to reverse-engineer a Voronoi object?
# Answer
I posted this to an Autodesk forum, and a fellow named "MagWeb" proposed the following solution. I have not tried it yet.
> A possible workflow depends much on the overall shape of the voronoi object: If it's convex all over (like an egg) or convex and planar (like a cylinder) e.g:
>
> * SelectAll (Ctrl+A or Cmd+A on MAC)
> * Run Edit/FitPrimitive and set its PrimitiveType to ConvexHull (CreateNewObjects checked)
> * Run MakeSolid on this hull object and set its SolidType to Accurate. Accurate enables the OffsetDistance slider. Pull it down a bit and hit update. You want to get a result intersecting but showing the voronoi object. If needed adjust the offset. Finally accept.
> * Now activate both the voronoi and the MakeSolid result and run BooleanUnion
> * Show the FitPrimitive object again (MakeSolid did hide it before) and run MakeSolid again in Accurate mode. Now set a slightly bigger offset as you did before. The difference will determine the "lining's" thickness. Accept
> * Activate the BoolleanUnion result first and the last MakeSolid result and run BooleanDifference to get a hollow object. You might use another intersecting object to bool-off an opening the bottom.
>
> Harder but doable with a different workflow on an voronoi object owning concave regions...
## edit
Having run some trials, I can confirm this works for simple convex objects. If there are concavities, most likely the source shape needs to be chopped into sections each of which can be treated as convex.
I played around with Meshmixer's "apply pattern" functions with limited success. I could get a form-fitting pattern shape but with a rather uneven surface. Some fine-tuning of the pattern parameters may help. Note that the new shape tends to be as thick as the original voronoi object, so it may well be better to do something like the following:
1) create a duplicate of the original
2) shrink the duplicate by a few percent
3) align the two objects to a common origin and take the boolean difference to create a thin-wall version of the original.
4) Build the pattern object based on that thinwall object.
### edit number 2
I succeeded! For those who care, I took an open Voronoi glasses case and put a skin inside to protect your glasses. See this Thingiverse item
> 4 votes
---
Tags: cad, voronoi
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thread-5986 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5986 | Why turning off model cooling for first layer? | 2018-05-18T14:20:01.363 | # Question
Title: Why turning off model cooling for first layer?
I had few printing troubles for first layer yesterday (will certainly ask there as soon as I can take photos) but one of the things I've noticed is that the model cooling fan (the fan that is supposed to blow air on the printed model, not the fan that regulates the noozle temperature) is turned off for printing the first layer.
It's a Dagoma DiscoEasy200, printing PLA on a non-heating bed (blue tape).
Wandering down stackexchange, I also read `turn off the part fan for the first layer` from https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5494/10836
So my question is:
*what's the reason behind turning off the part/model-fan for the first layer?*
# Answer
Filament expands as it gets hot. Cooling the filament will make it shrink, so cooling the filament deposited on the bed can lead to adhesion problems and warping of your products. This is exactly the reason why you use a heated bed (the delta temperature is smaller). So keep the cooling off for the first layers and you'll be fine.
---
Additionally (having answered the question for not using cooling air for the first layer), I would like to add that sometimes you won't need *any* cooling at all (for other layers), or *very little* cooling.
Please do note that some filaments do not like to be cooled down too fast; this may lead to weaker layer bonding or other issues. E.g. POM filament will harden very quickly when cooled causing the nozzle to bump on the quickly hardened filament knocking the product over. Also I found that too much cooling air when using PETG leads to "string-cheese" products caused by insufficient layer bonding. ABS is reported to be even more sensitive for cooling (shrinkage during cooling is higher than of PLA or PETG filaments); a frequent advice is not to use filament cooling when using ABS filament.
> 11 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, print-fan
--- |
thread-5999 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5999 | First layer height problem after changing nozzle | 2018-05-20T23:14:38.813 | # Question
Title: First layer height problem after changing nozzle
I have a problem with my first layer height. But lets start at the beginning:
I own a Tevo Tarantula Dual extruder printer with a endstop switch for Z axis. No Auto bed level. 0.4mm nozzle. Everything worked as it should. I home extruder with G28 command and level the bed using a piece of paper or a thickness gauge 0.1mm. In the slicer I set Initial layer height 0.2mm for layer height 0.1mm. The fisrt Layer looked perfect and sticked to the bed fine. a few days ago it stopped in the middle of a print, nozzle clogged. No problem i changed the nozzle to a spare one i had. It is not the first time i took it apart.
Here starts my problem: After everything was build together again i home the extruder with G28, level the bed and start a print with the same settings i usualy used to print. But either the first layer didn't stick to the bed at all or looks terrible. i tried to level the bed again and also tried to get it to work with playing with the settings. But with no satisfactorily results.
Here is is the part my Question starts: I noticed that the first layer is actually not at the same Z=0 if i use G28 to home and the Z0 it shows when i print a part. For example: Set G28 Level bed with 0.1mm thickness gauge. Then start printing with layer height 0.1mm and initial layer height setting 0.2mm
The result should be 0.1+0.1+0.2 =0.4 real layer height (if i also count the 0.1 layer heigth(not sure if this is correct)) the printer shows here a Z of 0.2 But if i meassure it, it is around 0.7mm thats way to much.
I am confused why this is the case after i changed the nozzle. Considering i leveled the bed the exact same way i did before and used the same slicer. The new nozzle is a little bit shorter but i made sure both nozzle of the dual extruder have the same height. I do not understand why this happens. Is there a way to reset the Z? I tried the M851 code but as far as i understand it, it i used for Auto-Bed leveling. It didn't work anyway, says unknown command.
I could work around the problem by adjust the endstop until it somehow works, but then if i want to level the bed and use the G28 code the nozzle would crash into the bed and that is not a satisfactory solution. Would it suffice to set a z-offset in the firmware? I don't have much experience on that area.
> ;FLAVOR:Marlin
> ;TIME:737
> ;Filament used: 0.351177m
> ;Layer height: 0.1
> ;Generated with Cura\_SteamEngine 3.2.0
> M190 S47
> M104 S197
> M109 S197
> M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
> G21 ;metric values
> G90 ;absolute positioning
> M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
> M107 ;start with the fan off
> G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
> G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
> G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
> G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
> G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
> G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
> G1 F9000
> ;Put printing message on LCD screen
> M117 Printing...
> ;LAYER\_COUNT:9
> ;LAYER:0
> M107
> M204 S2200
> G0 F3000 X75.185 Y64.596 Z0.2
> M204 S1750
> ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1650 X76.267 Y63.316 E0.06132
# Answer
> 2 votes
this is a common case in my TT.... Please check the y-carriage wheels - on the 2040 and 2020 profile. Mostly you shall find a little wobble on one of the ends, that introduces instability in leveling, so you could level it, home it and another level is needed. In my case, I decided to upgrade for dual-z drive - please see this
Another interesting Z upgrade: option two
We can observe z-wobble by watching the x-axis on the left side (no lead screw), it will have a little delay in response when moving up/down comparing to the other side.
---
Tags: z-axis, calibration, layer-height
--- |
thread-5997 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5997 | Getting precise measurement of a complex rod | 2018-05-20T15:36:15.710 | # Question
Title: Getting precise measurement of a complex rod
I'm trying to build a headrest for my Sayl office chair. For that, I'm designing a 3d-printed part that's going to fit on one of the existing rods of the chair.
Check out this picture:
How would you go about in getting the exact measurements of that white rod? I tried a caliper, and I'm able to get the width and depth, and I can just assume that the rod's profile is a perfect ellipse, which is probably a close estimate. But say that I want to get a more precise measurement. Is there any technique to do that?
# Answer
> 1 votes
In an earlier comment you stated that you cannot take it apart. So without taking it apart, you could try to determine the profile the old-fashion way with a piece of cardboard and a short pencil, just cut the rough shape of the rod and place it onto the rod, then take the short pencil and draw the profile onto the cardboard with the pencil parallel to the rod. Measuring the distance from the pencil center to the pencil radius will give you the profile of the rod with that off-set. This technique, or the technique used to create notches in logs for log cabins may be used to find the profile at various sections which have to be entered in a 3D CAD model program and splined/lofted to get the surface of the rod.
Alternatively you could use a profile shape tool carpenters use:
# Answer
> 1 votes
You need to disasemble the part and measure it with special equipment, a caliper can help but only as reference since the part has an angled shape.
I recommend to use an optical comparator (base shadows) with this you can have X and Y data to calculate the angle and curves. If you want more precise measurements you can try an Optical Measurement Device (based camera), this also can give you Z but X and Y will help you a lot. Both equipments use a system called Quadra Chek many industries has at least one of this to assure his quality due meets all requirements for Ford GDT guides (geometric dimensional tolerances). no matter the manufacturer brand.
I´ve tried to measure with the phone or table application but is hardly to calibrate on each required dimension. I had to buy an optical comparator.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You could pull it apart and have it 3d scanned if you want to know the exact dimensions. There are companies that can do that for you at a certain price. Our company has used such services in scanning various parts before we obtained our own laser scanning device.
The question is whether you want exactly the same (dimension wise) part (maybe you do for ecstatic reasons) while a part that is a little more beefier would work also.
**Edit:** Although tagged with 3D scanning, the OP did not mention whether he would be able to disassemble the part. 3D scanning is an option when taken apart. Another solution has been posted since.
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, scanning
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thread-5996 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5996 | Uneven wall thickness with test cube | 2018-05-20T11:34:41.073 | # Question
Title: Uneven wall thickness with test cube
I noticed that one edge (which is also the starting point of the print) is always bigger than the other three. Additionally, the walls do not have the same thickness as well. The wall thickness (starting from the thick edge) starts very thin and gets thicker till reaching the thick edge again. Does anyone have a clue whats the issue?
# Answer
This happens when you have poor retraction / oozing.
**Signs of too high temp and poor retraction**
1. Thick blob at start point, meaning moltin plastic is oozing out as you change Z position
2. As you see at the end of the line less material, you prematurely oozed out liquid plastic. As the melt zone is depeleated you get thinner lines.
**Solutions**
1. Increase retraction distance. This will remove the plastic from the melt zone and prevent some of the oozing.
2. Speed up Z axis lower and raising. Or decrease distances
3. Lower temps. Start with 3 cel increments. You want to go as low as you can without causing print defects.
You will likely need to do 1 and 3. 2 you really shouldn't need after you fix your temps.
> 1 votes
# Answer
As Fernando suggests, the problem is likely with your source file. One easy way to verify this is to slice twice, rotating the STL by 90 degrees. If both prints produce fat/thin sides in the same dimension on the print bed, then it's a printer problem. If the fat side rotated with the STL orientation, then the STL is at fault.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, pla
--- |
thread-6013 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6013 | OpenSCAD library for empty space/holes | 2018-05-23T22:28:22.280 | # Question
Title: OpenSCAD library for empty space/holes
I am working on a design in OpenSCAD, and need (would want) two things that seem tedious to hand-code:
1. A pattern of holes in a wall, for less weight/material. Could be round holes or some geometric pattern.
2. Empty enclosed space, with some grid-structure for stability. Again, for saving weight/material (and time during the printing).
Are there any libraries for these things?
# Answer
I'm not aware of libraries that do that for you (but you can create your own, see end of the answer), but creating a relieve hole pattern is not that difficult or tedious using iterator functions (e.g. the `for loop`). Note that it may not be a good idea to make enclosed holes inside your object, see the bottom section "Internal cavities in models" at the bottom of the answer.
Small OpenSCAD test script:
```
tol=0.2;
difference(){
cube([100,100,10]);
for (x=[10:20:90]){
for (y=[10:20:90]){
translate([x,y,-tol/2]){
cylinder(r=9,h=10+tol,$fn=180);
}
}
}
}
```
This can be used for both parts of your question, but in case the pattern needs to be inside an object you need to lower the value of `h` in the subtracting cylinder and raise/translate it (you could use the `center=true` in the `cylinder` function as a parameter and raise the center to the middle of your object `translate([x,y,objectThickness/2])`). You could make a `module` of the recurring pattern yourself to create your library.
note: Replace `cylinder` with `cube` or any other geometrical solid or (2D) pattern (use `linear_extrude`) to subtract from your part.
---
## Internal cavities in models
Note that it is not always wise to create your own spacing/grid structure enclosed in the model. Please read the accepted answer of this question. This answer explains that slicer applications work best with true solids!
---
> 5 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, openscad
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thread-4230 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4230 | Z axis OK during calibration, but WAY off on prints | 2017-06-13T17:46:53.657 | # Question
Title: Z axis OK during calibration, but WAY off on prints
I have Anet A8 where I have changed the controller from the original to RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.1 and ran into some strange issues with my Z axis.
Doing calibration (10 mm cube, 10x10x20 mm, 10x10x30 mm) I am dead on the mm on the Z axis. (10 mm, 20 mm, 30 mm) But when I print a part that is supposed to be 24 mm high, it comes out 27 mm high.
Went back to print calibration 10x10x30, and Z axis is dead on 30 mm again.
Also printed a bracket that was supposed to be 240 mm high, ended up close to 270 mm.
I am doing the same layer heights for all the prints (calibration cubes and otherwise). Starting with a 0.2 mm first layer and then 0.1 mm on all other layers. Using RepetierHost v. 1.6.2 with Slic3r v. 1.2.9
Anyone experienced something like this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
**This was a comment from the OP, which effectively answers their own question:**
After:
* Installing new Marlin 1.1.3;
* Changing the Maximum Acceleration on Z down to 20, and;
* Changing Acceleration and Retract Acceleration down to 1000.
I have now a printout that measures 24.65 mm (0.65 mm higher than it should) and good enough for me to say, this is OK.
---
Tags: calibration, z-axis
--- |
thread-6011 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6011 | Efficient packing of models with chains | 2018-05-23T18:40:36.633 | # Question
Title: Efficient packing of models with chains
I have a model where several solids are linked with chains. The original design contains a lot of empty space.
I am looking for software, which can automatically move the solids and fold the chains such that the total build volume gets smaller (total build volume is a major cost driver on shapeways.com). Obviously, the topology of the design must not change, i.e., it should be possible to return the model to the original state without breaking chains.
I tried Blender - Rigid Body Physics, but that has stability issues.
# Answer
> 2 votes
This is relatively easy to do in any CAD/mesh software. For example, if you load import the model into Meshmixer, you can select a given solid and N links of chain connected to it (using "expand selection to groups" or similar to be safe). Then use the "Separate" command to allow you to move/rotate that subset on its own. All you have to do is make sure the two chain links at the point of rotation remain disjunct.
Once you've moved everything around, just SelectAll and export.
---
Tags: 3d-design
--- |
thread-6022 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6022 | 3D printing template material | 2018-05-24T15:12:23.967 | # Question
Title: 3D printing template material
I want to print a structure that I can embed in a resin and later dissolve. I know that some fancy 3D printing systems have raft materials etc., that can be printed and later removed easily.
Can any one suggest a 3D printing material that can be dissolved in say water or another readily available solvent?
# Answer
Wash-away filament used for support in PLA printing is typically PVA, which is completely water soluble and may serve your purpose. It is easily 3D printed as the primary filament and attaches well to the build plate.
Many 3D printer filament suppliers will carry this type of support material. It is important to keep it in a sealed bag with desiccant as it will absorb moisture from the air, rendering it useless for printing.
One such resource is MatterHackers which prices a half-kilogram at US$45. The link provides suitably appropriate information:
> PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol) is a water-soluble material that is often used as a support material, but can also be used to print independently. PVA supports are useful for complex designs where removing support material manually is difficult or impossible, but leaving the part in a water bath overnight will completely dissolve this material.
> 4 votes
# Answer
ABS dissolves in acetone. Indeed actone can be used to clean up 3D prints, see What's smoother? Acetone treated PLA or ABS. PLA maybe not somuch as ABS, see the same post.
PLA dissolves in any chlorinated or fluorinated solvent, such as THF or Chloroform - both of which are significantly more hazardous than acetone.
Hence, as always **take care** when using solvents, see Safety precautions when using acetone
Also, as filaments are often not pure ABS or PLA, due to additives and dyes, etc., then the solvent may not dissolve the 3D printed part *completely*, and you may be left with a deformed, rubbery residue.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: support-material
--- |
thread-6027 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6027 | How can I generate and export the support structure for an object as a mesh? | 2018-05-25T01:19:10.300 | # Question
Title: How can I generate and export the support structure for an object as a mesh?
I want to render a visual of an mesh I created with a real support structure that a 3d printer would print. I haven't had any luck in finding a way to do this. Is there a program (ideally free) that can generate the proper support structure and export it into a mesh format, like .stl or .obj ?
# Answer
> 7 votes
You could try Meshmixer its free and the supports generated with it are embedded into the 3D model.
Here you can find a reference on Meshmixer supports. Meshmixer is well known for making custom supports for complex 3D models.
---
Tags: 3d-models, support-structures
--- |
thread-6026 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6026 | Problem with 3D printer not accepting new print gcodes | 2018-05-25T00:23:27.163 | # Question
Title: Problem with 3D printer not accepting new print gcodes
Ok so I am trying to print a new fusion 360 file that I converted into an STL and then into gcode using cura and I got the gcode loaded onto the SD card and mounted into my Monoprice 3D printer, Maker Select 3D Printer v2, and tried to do a print. Now here is the strange part. When I choose "print file" and then select a gcode to print it takes me back to the main screen and from there the 3D printers screen displays "Printing...0%" for a few seconds. After this it just goes back to displaying "Stepper Disabled." And if it is not stepper disabled it is just a blank screen. I tried to mount and print multiple gcodes just to make sure that it was not the softwares fault and low and behold I was running into the same issue.
Now before using today all of the gcode was printing just fine, however for some reason today it decided to give me this issue.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Determined Solution
Ok so after an hour or so of searching and trying to figure this out, I found that the best to deal with this is by reformating the SD Card once the problem starts.
Now I had to make sure that I made a backup of all the files so that I could recover them once the process was complete.
Also please note that the problem may have been with one of the files on the SD Card so backing up the SD Card and then restoring the files from your place of storage for the SD card may or may not work.
Also, this problem and solution were done on a Monoprice 3D Printer V2 so I am not sure how this would work with any other 3D printer.
# Answer
> 5 votes
As you found out, sometimes the SD cards need reformating.
And if they came with the printer they could be fake (Fake capacity), when you try to upload more than its real capacity they will just corrupt.
My Anet A8 came with an 8GB SD card and it turned out to be 128 mb. With RMPrepUSB you can do a capacity test and format it to the real capacity.
---
Tags: g-code
--- |
thread-938 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/938 | What are the ideal print conditions for polypropylene? | 2016-04-05T19:09:43.360 | # Question
Title: What are the ideal print conditions for polypropylene?
I'm having a lot of trouble printing polypropylene right now, and I think it may have to do with the conditions. I'm using a very thin coat of ABS on the base plate (just as you would do when printing with ABS) in order to promote sticking.
In this following first picture, I attempted with a 240°C tip and a 150°C bed (above PP's Tg). Oddly enough, one side actually looked somewhat decent while the other clearly had trouble sticking. The print speed on this was 1500 mm/min.
In the second picture, I was printing with the tip at 220°C and a 50°C bed. What's interesting in that print (you may be able to see it) is that the polymer extruded with little blips of material followed by a more stringy section, rather than a steady, even filament. (Print speed on this was 2100 mm/min)
Does anyone have suggestions for doing better prints with PP?
# Answer
> 14 votes
Polypropylene CAN be printed with excellent results, you just need a good filament roll and good printing setup. A few days ago I read this topic and was kind of afraid of testing it, now I am so happy I tried it.
I am printing the PP filament from the brand Smart Materials 3D (search on google).
I am using a Prusa i3 Mk2, bed heated to 70ºC and hotend to 210ºC. I ventilate the printer as much as possible: room windows open and fan at 100% after second layer.
IMPORTANT: apply some cheap brown packaging adhesive strips to the bed, where the part is going to touch the bed, with adhesive facing down. I tried many other solutions but none worked.
I have printed so far at 20mm/s constant, with 0.2 mm layer heigth, 0.4 mm extrusion width, 0.8mm retraction, flow 125%. Still optimizing setings. Parts come out very nice, with good flexibility and amazing inter layer bonding. Density is a bit lower than ABS, so excellent, and impact resistance is awesome. Check some parts I printed today:
# Answer
> 8 votes
Polypropylene is a bear to print. There's a good reason almost nobody does it. The main problem is that it's a semi-crystalline material, which means it doesn't follow the normal rules for warping prevention.
An amorphous polymer like ABS or PET is able to slowly flow or creep until it cools below the glass point, Tg. This means the stresses caused by thermal contraction will "shake out" above Tg and only start accumulating when the print cools below Tg and fully solidifies. That's why heated build plates are usually set around the glass point for amorphous materials -- there's minimal warping stress in the print at that temp.
However, when you extrude semi-crystalline polymers like PE or PP, crystallization starts as soon as the temp drops below the melt point, Tm. A crystalline polymer will not flow or creep at a rate that is meaningful over the duration of an FDM print, so thermal contraction stresses will simply build up more and more as the plastic is cooled farther below Tm. And there's a loooong way to go when cooling from Tm to room temp. As a result, you get HUGE warping stresses with these plastics compared to more typical FDM materials.
**It is simply not possible to pick a heated bed or heated chamber temp that entirely eliminates the tendency of PP to warp. The normal rules we use for amorphous polymers don't apply. And, greatly compounding the problem, PP is a very low-surface-energy material with adhesion behavior fairly similar to wax. It doesn't want to stick to much of anything except itself.**
High warping stress + poor adhesion = bad times.
So, the simple answer is, polypropylene does not have the correct polymer behavior to be favorable for FDM. You will always be fighting warping. Think carefully about whether you want to struggle with PP or switch to a more suitable material that could accomplish the same design goal for the printed part. Do you really need to use PP? PET blends have similar hardness and chemical resistance, nylon blends have similar toughness, and TPUs can handle living hinge applications. That covers most of the reasons you'd want to use PP.
If you absolutely must use PP, you're going to need to pull out ALL the tricks people use with traditional high-warp materials like ABS and PC and nylon.
* Use a build plate made of a close relative of the material you're printing. For example, people have successfully printed HDPE on a PP build plate, so I would imagine that a HDPE build plate should work for PP.
* Or, use a perfboard build plate with a raft so the initial layer will get embedded into the holes.
* Or, use a coarse fibrous surface like stiff cardboard or fiberboard.
* Get the build chamber enclosed and as hot as you can without damaging the printer. 50C is usually reasonable for motors, extruders, etc unless you have PLA printed parts to worry about. (Heated build plates only really help with the bottom 5-10mm of the print if the printer is not enclosed.)
* Use helper disks / mouse ears on corners.
* Really mash the first layer down onto the build plate.
* Print low layer heights, like 0.1mm. Smaller layers mean the thermal contraction applies more shear stress between layers, and less of the large-scale aggregate bending stress that lifts corners.
* Higher print speeds may also help due to some complex strain-crystallization effects, but that's only currently proven in nylon to my knowledge.
Another option, if it meets your functional requirements, is to use a fiberglass or carbon fiber composite PP. CFR and GFR plastics usually warp less than virgin plastics. The fibers have a low coefficient of thermal expansion, which makes the composite material contract less as it cools, which reduces warping stress. The most successful PP printing I've ever seen was GFR-PP. But that stuff is hard to find and may not work if the part needs to be flexible.
# Answer
> 1 votes
First picture clearly shows that temperature was too hight, second one suggests too small extruding speed (too little) which is connected to your printing speed.
35mm/s is quite slow :)
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes. These settings work for Ultimaker as well. Set the printer to print PLA, and put brown tape on the bed under the print. Set the layer to 0.1 mm, set the initial layer to 0.1 mm.
Don't over heat the PP or when it cools it will shrink tons making it want to peel off. PLUS if you don't let the PP go below its T<sub>g</sub> (80°C) by making the bed too hot it will stay molten and eventually stick to the nozzle making a truly pants print, and probably detach itself.
I have been making tiny detailed little components with PP this evening, just about to put 21 on to make and then off to bed!
### Update:
Sorry, PLA settings on the UM is 210°C for Hotend. I am making round PCB spacers, so these are best with a 100% infill and a concentric fill pattern. Also, I recalibrated the platform with a very thin post-it note which is about 50% of the thickness of the UM calibration card. It makes sense to just get the PP soft enough to extrude, in fact I am seeing turbulence at the beginning when the extruder runs some material through the molten material has a curly cable appearance. Like this the material beds itself right into the tape. Lovely.
---
Tags: print-quality, print-preparation, print-material
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thread-6018 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6018 | Cura printer settings for Alladinbox SkyCube 3D | 2018-05-24T13:43:25.600 | # Question
Title: Cura printer settings for Alladinbox SkyCube 3D
I've just purchased an Alladinbox SkyCube 3D that I want to use to print board game miniatures and other fun stuff.
However, the instructions do not give the settings I need to put into software like Ultimaker Cura, and this is where I need some help so that I can generate the G-code files from models I download from MyMiniFactory.
I know it uses PLA and the extrusion temperature should be 210°C. However, I need help with the other settings.
Can someone please point me in the right direction? Is there a better software I could be using? Where can I find settings?
Thanks.
UPDATE: For those wondering "what" settings, I would probably start with the printer and extruder specifications. The following is my best guess.
and
I'm basing these settings on the device specs on this page: Link to Alladinbox specs
# Answer
Okay, after some research and experimentation, I've come up with some settings that seem to work.
Firstly, some specs about the Alladinbox SkyCube 3D:
* Firmware: Marlin
* Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
* Nozzle speed: 20 to 70 mm/s
* Layer thickness: 0.1 to 0.4 mm
* Printing area: 110 x 110 x 125 mm (WLH)
Note: There is NO cooling fan present and the base is NOT heated.
Now for the actual printing settings...
I'm using the PLA supplied with the printer so far, and it works well at a nozzle temperature of 210C.
I'm printing at 0.2 mm per layer, which seems to afford to a good level of detail. I've printed a scanned Greco-Roman basin, and the details are very nice indeed.
So far I'm using a 20% line filling, and this seems to give the structure a good solidity and strength. I'm also operating the nozzle at its maximum speed of 70 mm/s and it seems to work just fine.
Obviously, I'm still experiments, and different materials may require different settings, but overall I'm very happy. I hope this post helps someone.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Ultimaker Cura comes with pre-defined profiles for various materials. PLA filament is present in between them. This could be a good starting point to derive your specific profile for your own material. To do we usually print test objects and look at the quality of the product. Test prints can consist of simple X-Y-Z test cubes, temperature towers, retraction test prints, a "Benchy" or many more.
Generally 210 degC is pretty high for PLA, but may sometimes be necessary when printing high speeds. Just copying the material profiles from someone else may not work for you as it might involve different printer brands and even within the filament brands variations in between rolls of a single line may require additional tweaking.
---
**Edit:** The original question appeared to hint at material settings, but the OP changed the question, hinting on printer settings with accompanying screenshots how to setup the printer in Cura. However, the OP's answer (that the OP accepted) also includes material and other slicing settings (infill, layer height, speed). To help other people I undeleted my answer which discusses using the standard Cura profiles to work on to make your own derivatives.
> 0 votes
# Answer
To start printing with Cura, you can select standard printer (aka Prusa i3) and set the x,y,z dimensions in the machine properties window - it is a safe point to start. Then you could print a test cube and try to dial in with speed/temperature setting to get the best quality.
> 0 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-3877 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3877 | Anet A6's filament not feeding through the nozzle | 2017-04-17T19:42:03.587 | # Question
Title: Anet A6's filament not feeding through the nozzle
Whenever I try putting the filament through the nozzle it does not go through. I have searched everywhere online and have found nothing.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Many printers have a problem with inserting filament into the extruder. Cutting it at an angle is a huge help. It is also very possible that you have a cog or a bad extruder nozzle.
This link could be of some help: Extruder is not feeding.
# Answer
> 1 votes
My first step would be to cut the filament at a bit of an angle. This will help the filament enter the extruder correctly.
If you're still having trouble, you may have a clogged nozzle. This article by Lifewire -3D Printer Extruder Nozzle Clogged? Here Is How To Unclog It has some good info.
I've also heard stories about the Bowden Tube (the PTFE tube that guides the filament from the extruder to the hotend) becoming warped or melted in cases where the printer's temperature control went awry. This is rare as PTFE doesn't melt until 320°C.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I think my PTFE shaft is in reverse when it was assembled and sent out. One side is the metal shaft only the other side the PTFE inner shaft. I read about filament shavings from poor feeding, so it wouldn't make sense initial feeder takes on hard metal where it might shave it and obstruct ease, also the nozzle and the filament must need well heat so it doesn't make sense the PTFE is screwed in nearest the nozzle, rather the metal should conduct against it. Thus also the thermal reading would be off from it not applied to the actual filament just around it. In bike breaks it's to prevent the scraping of the metal chord against the metal housing upon where it exists the housing. One of the video's suggested using twisty ties for the belt as well, with four extra pieces same as two which are used on the track at the bed, a non one time use disposable clamp can be made with extra screws, for each instead of the twisty ties, so it stands to reason likely however it maybe the sales/distribution form manufacture has poor communication or not at all instructions is how these discrepancies arrive. IN MY OPINION. Reverse the shaft from extrude to the nozzle if you don't see Teflon at the extrude part, I have not tested it myself yet, but I'm going to. My unit as well seems poor ability to print at all.
---
Tags: filament, prusa-i3, extruder, pla, anet-a6
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thread-4819 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4819 | Which firmware to use on printer settings for DIY printer | 2017-10-28T00:46:40.167 | # Question
Title: Which firmware to use on printer settings for DIY printer
I have a 3D printer that I built using CD-ROM drives. It's all set and ready to go but when I generate `.stl` or `.obj` files my G-code sender program cannot load it. I have found that Slic3r will export the `.stl` into G-code but it has the option of changing the *G-code flavour*, or *firmware*.
My machine is running from an Arduino Uno with Grbl v0.8.
So the question is, which firmware setting would be appropriate for my machine that would require the least amount of editing before I can print?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Unless you can find a slicer that explicitly supports grbl, you will need to check the G-code specification and see which common flavour is closest to what grbl supports. The RepRap Wiki includes grbl in it's compatibility chart, but it has question marks against a lot of entries for grbl.
The other alternative is to slice a very simple model and see what commands are issued by the slicer, and whether they are supported by grbl.
Note that there is a question as to whether grbl supports FDM printing technology, i.e. 3D printers that use filament. Most slicers are designed to work with FDM printers, and will expect to be controlling at least one extruder. If your printer does not have an extruder that is controlled via G-code, you may encounter real difficulties generating G-code for it using commonly-available slicers.
RepRap Wiki: G-code
# Answer
> 2 votes
Slice your model... then edit the code in **Notepad**... where you will see that you will need to replace all `E` (extrude commands) with `M3` for Extrude on and/or `M5` for Extrude off.
You must look at the code and figure out where:
* The code is telling the extruder to extrude;
* Then it makes a bunch of XY moves; t
* Then, where it tells the extruder to stop, you have to insert an `M5` command.
I did this a year ago and got mine to work perfectly but it takes time to edit the code. Be patient and keep at it .
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, slic3r
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thread-6030 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6030 | Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L | 2018-05-25T08:11:14.310 | # Question
Title: Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L
Was anyone able to connect the default Anet A8 (2004) display to a MKS GEN L?
I've tried direct connection with re-wiring, and see white squares there, but I'm only able to see white squares on the screen as on screenshot:
Wiring:
The code that is currently used for the display :
1. `Config.h` uses `#define ZONESTAR_LCD`. Also `#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L`
2. Config\_adv.h uses `#define LCD_PROGRESS_BAR`
3. Pins were left as they were in config file.
Also I've tried replacing them with this numbering (which comes from MKS spec):
```
35 16 25 29 5V
37 17 23 27 GND
```
# Answer
I've got the Anet A8 display working on a RAMPS 1.6 (which basically works exactly the same as a RAMPS 1.4 board). Note that at first connection I got exactly the same display when I connected the LCD to the EXP1 and EXP 2 headers using the "smart adapter".
To get the Anet A8 display working on a MKS GEN L (which is basically a RAMPS board as the pin layout of the RAMPS configuration are used in the firmware of the MKS GEN L) you need to forget about the EXP1 and EXP2 headers and the "smart adapter" for the Anet A8 display. Instead you need to connect the Anet A8 display to the AUX2 header. The only thing you would have to do (from the hardware side) is to switch the cables that are connected to the pin 1 and pin 2. I used Dupont connectors and cables. Pin 1 on AUX2 is VCC and pin 2 on AUX2 is GND, this is reversed on the Anet A8 display.
From the software side you need to set the following constants:
```
#define ULTRA_LCD // Character based
```
and
```
#define ZONESTAR_LCD
```
Please note that in the photo you still see the "smart adapter" with flat ribbon cables, but they are not connected to a screen, the reason for them being there is I also tested the full graphic discount controller in a previous session. The Anet A8 display is connected to the flat ribbon cable on AUX2 just above the top-left most stepper driver.
---
UPDATE: At the time of writing and the use of an older Marlin version, this required to set `#define ULTRA_LCD`. In Marlin 1.1.9 you do not need to set `#define ULTRA_LCD` explicitly, this is now intrinsically set by `#define ZONESTAR_LCD`. To elaborate on this, the `#define ZONESTAR_LCD` sets the constant `#define ULTIPANEL` which sets constant `#define ULTRA_LCD` in `Conditionals_LCD.h`.
> 4 votes
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Tags: anet-a8
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thread-61 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/61 | Why do the corners of my ABS object lift off the bed? | 2016-01-12T20:40:43.047 | # Question
Title: Why do the corners of my ABS object lift off the bed?
I print ABS on a LulzBot Taz 5 and frequently have issues with the corners of objects lifting off the bed.
My extruder is at 230 °C and the bed is at 90 °C for the first layer and 100 °C for the rest of the layers.
I have experimented with using ABS slurry (ABS + acetone) on the bed for increased adhesion, building a foam enclosure for the printer, and varying the fan speed. I have noticed the problem is more common the taller the parts are and the sharper the corner is.
Adding ABS slurry helped for smaller parts (less than an inch tall) but with my more recent larger parts the adhesion to the bed was so good that the corners of the part lifting actually peeled the PEI tape off of the bed.
I have tried using both a skirt and a brim with no change. The skirt stays on the bed, the brim gets pulled up with the corner.
# Answer
There are many different approaches to solving this issue and most of the answers already are spot-on. However, the fundamental reason for the "warping" is incorrect and inconsistent temperature across the material.
If there is too much fluctuation in the temperature across the object in this heated state can result in warping. The reason you see this mostly on the build plate is because the temperature of the first few layers of molten plastic vary much more against the build plate than against higher layers. Note that you can see additional warping mid-print using ABS and this can be a result of a draft or sudden drop in ambient temperature.
So, to help solve your problem, here are some suggestions (sorry if there are duplicates):
* Completely enclose/seal your machine's build area to reduce (or eliminate if possible) draft and prevent the natural heat of the machine from escaping.
* Increase the temperature on your build plate. I almost exclusively use ABS on my printer and I keep my HBP at about 112C. However, I live in the NW of the US, so my climate is naturally cooler than say Florida.
* Alternatively, try decreasing the nozzle temperature to a lower point within the ABS melting range. This will just shorten the gap between the inconsistencies in temperature across layers. It is typically better to print at lower temperatures if you can help it. Obviously there are differences in the filament, so you'll have to find that "sweet spot".
* Ensure your build plate is flat and your tape doesn't have bubbles. Your BP being flat should be a no brainer, but if your kapton tape (or whatever you use) has bubbles, your freshly printed plastic may not be getting the same temperature from the BP as the rest of your part. This is a bad thing as mentioned earlier.
* Use extra adhesion techniques such as "ABS Glue" (ABS w/ acetone) or even hairspray. This works about 80% of the time for me, but can make it a bit difficult when removing the parts off the BP.
> 19 votes
# Answer
Most common problem with corners is to low temperature of heated bed. Set the heated bed temperature to 110°. If this will not help then try to set brim in your slicer.
The problem can be cause by other issues. You can find additional tips in following Troubleshooting Guides:
> 10 votes
# Answer
Adding a manually added brim with a larger bulk at the corner extremities that you can cut off after printing should help. My larger prints come off the printer looking like tents with concrete weights tied to their corners.
The 'weights' are attached to the print by very short a 2-3 layer (depending on print size) brim-like strip that makes them easy to remove using side cutters. The 'weights' are usually enough to hold the corners of my target print on the plate in conjuction with a weak slurry.
> 8 votes
# Answer
This is a common problem with ABS. You might prevent it by enclosing the printer inside a box/chamber - that will create a warmer environment and the extruded material will cool down more slowly, hence not creating such a tension.
Other option is to use PLA instead if possible, the problem is not so significant with PLA.
> 7 votes
# Answer
The solution I prefer to prevent ABS withdrawal is using Blue tape on the bed, and then spread a thin layer of Polyvinyl acetate (Vinavil glue).
If your printer allows it, you can also print with the bed at 110°C.
> 5 votes
# Answer
To answer the specific question of "why" the corners lift off, it seems it has to do with the thermal expansion (or shrinkage) and surface adhesion area.
The material is deposited hot, and even after it cools is still warm, and as it cools it apparently shrinks in size slightly. Each layer therefore produces a little bit of force, pulling upwards and towards the center of the layer as the layer shrinks. So each layer is actually in a state of slightly tensile stress. Over a few layers this may not cause a noticeable effect, but as more layers are added, the total force pulling on the bottom layer increases.
The reason this affects corners more than the bulk surface regions is that the total surface area holding the part to the bed is smaller at sharper corners, so less force is required there to overcome the bed-adhesion force, causing corners to unstick eventually.
Since this is an artifact of thermal expansion, attempting to maintain a uniform temperature across the print volume/printed part will probably help a lot (for example, by enclosing the printer, as others have said).
In addition to the prior suggestions, the following paper suggests that chamfering (rounding) the corners can help with this (if your design allows for that):
D. D. Hernandez, "Factors Affecting Dimensional Precision of Consumer 3D Printing", Intl. Jnl. Aviation, Aeronautics and Aerospace (2015)
*"If the bottom layer does not appropriately adhere to the print bed, the cooling process and material shrinkage in layers above it will tend to pull at the smallest features, with the least surface area in contact with the bed, causing sections of the print to warp. Sharp corners at the bottom of the print pose a particular problem."*
*Side-thought:* I wonder if varying the bed temperature during the print (for example, slowly decreasing it to room-temp as more layers are printed) would help, since a constant bed-temp would theoretically produce a vertical temp-gradient for a very tall part. Don't think I've seen anyone try that (presumably because Cura doesn't automatically insert those g-code commands for us). Wouldn't be too hard to insert custom bed-temp commands throughout the g-code file though, but would take longer to temp-stabilize between layers.
> 4 votes
# Answer
In answer to the question "why do the corners lift when using ABS", the answer has to do with the coefficient of thermal expansion (or contraction).
ABS, compared to PLA, has a higher coefficient meaning that as the temperature of you part changes the more the part will deform. With 3d printing, the material extruded from the nozzle is quite a bit higher than the build chamber. As the layers print and the extruder moves up, the lowest layers are cooler than the layers above, shrinking as time goes on.
For angular parts this is a larger problem than for round parts. With angular parts (parts with sharp edges in X and Y axis) as they cool, the internal stresses induced by cooling increase and can't be resolved in just the xy axis and cannot move into the build plate. The part then lifts up to reduce these stresses.
A brim or raft, is a thin layer that ideally cools at a constant rate through out which will effectively increase the bonding of your part to the build plate. Abs to abs bonding being stronger than abs bonding to whatever your build plate material surface is. For most parts this is sufficient to keep good adhesion while your part builds and cools. Raises the temperature of the build plate also reduced the stress in the brim/raft by reducing the difference in temperature. This is why those are the go-to solutions for stopping abs from lifting.
If your part is large enough or the angles are quite sharp in XY, (think of a five pointed star for example). Then the brim raft won't necessarily be enough to prevent the warping. That's where "helper discs" "mouse ears" etc . Are helpful. These, when dispersed around the outer sharp corners, increase the surface area of the raft and also reduce the angles of the thermal contraction due to cooling.
Note, that while I'm talking about ABS specifically, this will apply to any and all materials if the part geometry, or material properties have the same issues. Nylon for example is also a pain to print for similar reasons.
The final thing to say is that all if this is for nothing if your build plate isn't both flat and level.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I would recommend using a raft on your print. A raft is a few layers that are printed on the bed before your print starts.
The larger you make the raft the stronger the center of it will be. The edges may warp, but the inside where your print is will be fine. Using a raft that is mainly comprised of lines instead of solid surfaces would allow a smaller chance of warping as it could only warp with the lines.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Another approach is to put mouse ears on all the corner parts, that you clip off the print afterward.
See Mouse ears defeat corner curling monster.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I think you answered your question in your statement. Lulzbot and ABS. Lulz does not have an enclosure.
Try using PLA for an open air system. Or build an enclosure. Following you can add glue or hairspray.
But I promise you, with any open air printer, you will face this problem. I only use ABS on my FFCPs. Even with their passive heat chambers I plan to move to PLA for all my printers.
> 1 votes
# Answer
This post is meant to share experience with products that make your products stick to the bed. This is not meant to be a promotion of the products! In other answers I've seen answers hinting to Elmer's glue sticks.
I have been printing directly onto the aluminium heatbed from day 2 of the i3 Prusa clone (Anet A8) printer and the glass beds of the Ultimaker 3 Extended and my HyperCube Evolution using a PVA based spray (3DLAC, but there are more products with similar effects, e.g. glue sticks). This sticks so well that PLA and PETG can only be removed after cooling down the bed completely. For ABS you could use DimaFix which can be used for ABS as it increases grip with increasing temperature where 3DLAC looses grip over 80 °C (according to theory). After trying DimaFix on high temperature beds for printing POM filament (very tough to get this to stick as this is bearing material!) I found that prints stick better with 3DLAC on glass.
> 1 votes
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Tags: extruder, abs, heated-bed, lulzbot
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thread-6058 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6058 | German RepRep Neo can't heat the extruder | 2018-05-29T10:56:45.593 | # Question
Title: German RepRep Neo can't heat the extruder
The printer stopped heating the extruder in the middle of the print and I noticed it getting cooled down. After a few seconds, I heard a ticking noise near the filament (which could probably mean the filament was being pushed into a cold extruder and was skipping. Now, when I try to heat the extruder, it won't heat up. What could've gone broken?
# Answer
> 1 votes
first, check the breakers pic source
## secondary stuff
please see a list of item to check, that could point you to the source:
1. heater cable cut/melted/loose =\> the best way will be to check the resistance (it shall be around 3.3 Ohms) from the heater cable terminals on the mainboard, if that fails it could be a wire on heater itself.
2. with the heating switch on - measure the voltage on terminals - shall be 12V, if not - that could suggest a mainboard failure or mosfet failure (in case of mosfet you could measure if there is an input signal given on the middle pin)
3. there also could be a breaker that was engaged due to short circuit on the wires (the main board layout is not known to me and it is not clear form manual I found online)
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Tags: extruder, heat-management
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thread-6035 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6035 | I want to use my 2 extruders simultaneously | 2018-05-26T05:45:59.923 | # Question
Title: I want to use my 2 extruders simultaneously
I am using 2 extruders. Is it possible to use them both at the same time. Now I can use one at a time but not both at the same time. Is there a gcode that supports this action?
# Answer
> 3 votes
To print with 2 extruders simultaneously you need a firmware that supports that. Luckily, there is a firmware called Sailfish that is able to do that. The feature you are looking for is called `Ditto` printing.
Sailfish firmware is found here
# Answer
> 1 votes
That depends what you want to achieve. If you want to get a clone of your thing then - 0scar answer is a go for it.
In early days, I was thinking that this could speed up my printing, if both extrudes could work simultaneously - a piece here, a piece there on the same layer. But then I realized that this will be a good source of oozing (even with retraction a nozzle can touch already printed area by another nozzle) so my printout could get material drops.
Moreover, in most cases, we don't want to have one color printout scratched by another nozzle as that also decreases quality and visual outlook of printed thing.
From hardware point - there could be more strain on the CPU to drive next stepper (depends on the solution) and that can lead to slower printing alltogether.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If you want a ditto printing is not mandatory to have a specific firmware (or g-code), you only need to add extruder to your end effector and - because of electrical power requirements - add further stepper driver for further stepper motor. Please note that the maximum footprint of your printed object is less than the extruders distance, for obvious physical reasons, therefore is not that common to see, the typical dual extruder goal is to use different filament/color. Of course, you have to achieve a notable calibration skill, and of course you have to modify the electronics of your printer (but this can be done quite easily, you only have to share the enable/step/dir signals with all the stepper driver). This has been already done with the MPCNC project.
Otherwise, if you want something more flexible, there are commercial printers with independent extruder. This one, for example
Edit: i can't comment your answer yet, but can you describe your current 3d printer setup? Because if you have the two hot ends that are only few mm apart it makes little sense to ditto-print something.
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Tags: extruder
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thread-6060 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6060 | Anet A6 install bed leveling sensor | 2018-05-29T12:48:31.387 | # Question
Title: Anet A6 install bed leveling sensor
After lots of hassle, I finally made the printer work.
I also got myself one bed leveling sensor from eBay, LJ18A3-8-Z/BX 3D Printer Inductive Sensor Bed Auto Level +Plug For Anet A8 A2 A6.
I'm not sure how to setup it. Should I print some holders for it first? Where are they?
Should I somehow update the firmware?
# Answer
> 3 votes
You need to do two or three things:
1. Print a holder or bracket for the probe, if your probe did not come with one, and looking at the eBay item listing, it doesn't appear to include a bracket. There are a number of designs out there, take a look at thingiverse, for example:
2. Change the firmware - SkyNet 3D, Marlin is a good choice, or Anet's own
3. You *may* need to change the Z-stops
There is a step by step guide here, Autolevel for the A8 Anet 3D Printer. It is for the A8 but most, if not all, of the steps will apply to the A6
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Tags: anet-a6
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thread-6050 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6050 | Extruder clogs randomly during print | 2018-05-28T13:37:04.637 | # Question
Title: Extruder clogs randomly during print
I don't know how to say this but during the print, the printer will randomly have difficulty extruding the filament. I will have to give the filament a *boost* for it to keep going. Once I done the *boost*, the extruder keeps going perfectly fine for a while.
I am using a Prusa I3 clone bought second hand. I am using the settings that the previous owner gave me (I personally know him). He previously printed a lot of stuff with those settings and they seem to work well. I also bought the brand of same filament as he did for my first roll.
My question is:
**Has anyone had this problem or anything similar and if they did, how did they resolve it?**
If anymore precision or clarification is needed, please ask.
**EDIT**
When I say `boost` I mean that I have to push it down a bit more for it to countinue extruding.
I am using 3D branche filament (it's a local store in Montreal).
I do sometime hear it click before the print. When it does that. I stop the print and restart it.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Check your retraction settings. I had a similar issue and it was caused by the retraction, It retracted just about enough so the gears couldnt hit the hole properly to feed the filament into the nozzle. To fix that I lowered the value of mm on the retraction settings.
# Answer
> 2 votes
If the model you're printing is your own design, then sometimes the 3D model is itself the problem. If the printer spends a lot of time retracting (pulling back) on the filament to print things like walls with lots of gaps then the filament softens at the feed gear and nothing feeds. Slicing software should handle that use case but may not. I've had this exact problem with the Lulzbot Mini using Cura when trying to print a hydroponics netpot. I had to rethink my design after the extruder clogged.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I've adjusted the tension of the idler wheel (the bearing that pushes the filament against the extruder gear) and it seems to reduce the problem.
More thest to come.
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Tags: prusa-i3, extruder
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thread-6067 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6067 | What is causing the walls of my prints to separate? | 2018-05-30T13:03:56.937 | # Question
Title: What is causing the walls of my prints to separate?
I have been having an issue with certain portions of the walls of certain prints becoming separated from the rest of the model. It happens with smooth vertical edges.
Specifically, this model, ID Badge Holder, on the edges where the lanyard would be attached. And on several places on this model, Cat Necklace.
Here is the resulting issue:
I am quite new to 3D printing, so I'm sure this is an easy fix, I just don't know about it yet.
I am printing with a Monoprice Select Mini V2, using Hatchbox PLA, and the default slicing settings inside Cura. I don't have problems with any of the D&D figures I've printed, or some of the other thicker square pieces I've printed. I know I've got kind of a bargain printer; if it's just a quality issue I have to learn to live with, no problem. But if an expert knows of some slicer settings to tweak for these kinds of prints with flat vertical walls, I'd love to give it a try.
# Answer
> 7 votes
I have faced the same issue if it concerns just gaps between the walls (to the point you could put a nail in between the outer and inner perimeters, so clearly the perimeters were not bonding), for me this was fixed with proper tension of the belts of my Prusa i3 clone, and for my other (CoreXY) printer reducing the friction of the X-Y system. Both help position the head better for proper wall adhesion.
Now that you have posted a picture of your product I do not think the above is applicable to you. Your print looks as if it has an under-extrusion problem as the lines on the faces are clearly not touching, you see the diagonals of the layers beneath. This under-extrusion also may contribute to the vertical wall bonding problems you mention. To fight under-extrusion you need to check a few things:
1. Be sure the slicer has the actual filament diameter as mentioned on the box, or measured at various points (if it varies, take the mean value).
2. Check your extruder setup to see whether you have play or friction preventing filament to extrude freely.
3. Also check whether your extruder gear is not loose, re-tighten the grub screw.
4. Final step is calibration. You want to be certain that when you demand 100 mm of filament to extrude, you actually extrude 100 mm. Put a mark on the filament and extrude 100 mm using a tool like Pronterface or Repetier-host. If this is off you should readjust the steps per mm in the firmware (if you are able to do so), or increase the extrusion multiplier or flow in your slicer.
Please look here or here for more information.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I dont know if I understand you correctly, but let me try...
It could be that the wall-thickness of the part you try to print is to thin or is not "compatible" with your nozzle size. Lets say your nozzle and output size is 0.4mm. You now try to print a wall with a thickness of 1mm. So the printer will print 2 wall-perimeters (left and right) with a 0.4mm thickness. Between these walls there is now a 0.2mm gap. The slicer cannot fill this gap as its to small for the nozzle, so it is left empty.
I run into this problem multiple times already with different models using Cura.
But, atleast in older versions of Cura, if you go to the layer-view you can kind of preview/see the problem. (Iam still using an older Version.)
This problem can also effect the overall print quality of the part. (For example I had a part with very big stringing problems but only on the inside of a specific wall. The wall wasnt even thin, it was a couple of mm, but the overall thickness of the wall was not a multiple of my nozzle-size so it created problems.)
Some say you should design a model with a nozzle size already in mind, however this is not really practical, as everybody uses different settings/printers and not everybody creates his own models.
Here are some more infos regarding this issue: (and more "walls-not-touching" issues) https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallspace
So maybe try varying your nozzle size and wall thicknesses and see if this changes something in the cura preview already.
This problem can also happen if you have some very tight corners, which are to small for the nozzle.
# Answer
> 1 votes
When printing someone else's model, your print is at the mercy of their design. Designing for multiple printers is hard work, and even if something is printable on 90% of printers, you may be in the 10%. Sometimes designs use walls too thin for other printers. On this design, the lanyard wall looks a bit thin but workable. My own card holder has a thicker wall at that junction: https://github.com/firepick1/taz-shield/blob/master/STL/Cardholder.stl
Vertical walls are the weakest part of 3D printing. Walls are made up of overlapping filament strands. They'll come apart if your printer belts are loose and the strands don't align (tighten belt if there is play). They'll come apart if you print too fast and the contact area is too thin (slow down for better contact and more accurate motion). They'll come apart if filament head temp is too low and the strands don't fuse (bump it up by 5C and try again).
Slicing software normally takes are of all this for you, but it's good to understand what happens on the print bed because your slicing software will often have options that you will need to tweak for your specific printer.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yup I can tell at a glance it is under extrusion. I bet the issue is temp.
Test your steps per MM for E. See https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid\_Hunter%27s\_Calibration\_Guide
> Measure Required tools: vernier caliper with depth gauge, or similar tool that can precisely measure 100mm. Your hob effective diameter is unlikely to be exactly 7mm.
>
> Remove the hot-end from extruder so you don't waste filament. Feed in some filament. Using the extruder body as a reference point, mark the filament at 120mm. Tell the printer to feed 100mm of filament. Measure the distance from the extruder body to the mark you made. It will be over 20mm if it moved too little, under if it moved too far. new\_e\_steps = old\_e\_steps * (100 / distance\_actually\_moved) … or, old\_e\_steps * (100 / (120 - distance\_to\_mark)) Set this value in your firmware. You may need to re-flash your board. Sprinter/Marlin supports M92 Ennn to set this value temporarily. Repeat from Step 3 until you get between 96-104mm. Then continue with this guide. You'll dial it in perfectly later on. Don't flash firmware yet. There's a further refinement to this value below. Why? The back-pressure from the hot-end alters how much plastic each hob revolution pushes, and you'll probably end up tightening your idler more which reduces the hob effective diameter. Re-attach hot end.
If that comes out correct, your Temps are too low.
To fix this, you will need to play around and increase your temps by 2-3 degrees until the infill comes out correctly. Do not go over the minimum needed else you will have other issues.
Also check for obstructions such as carbon buildup in the nozzle. In addition to the tightness of your filament tensioner on your extruder drive if you have one.
I will say, I had this issue on my Ultimaker 2. An apparent design flaw caused the filament drive to lose power over time or possibly wear on the tube causing extra drag (bowden tube only issues). I corrected it by increasing the extrusion multiplier in simplify3d. However that is a bandaid and the real issue should be addressed. In my case in the end I replaced the drive with a bondtech.
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Tags: print-quality, monoprice-select-mini
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thread-6078 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6078 | Perplexing Y-axis shifting problem - only in positive y direction, and only on moves of a very specific radius | 2018-06-01T11:00:48.853 | # Question
Title: Perplexing Y-axis shifting problem - only in positive y direction, and only on moves of a very specific radius
I'm running a RepRap based ORDBOT Hadron on Repetier firmware version 1.0 that I built from a kit. I've slowly worked out the kinks but this one is an utter doozy.
Basically I occasionally get shifting in the y-axis - the print bed moves on this axis - but only in the positive y direction. Never in the negative y direction. I'm not sure if I'm using those terms correctly, but the bed shifts forwards (negative y), so subsequent print moves are displaced in the positive y direction relative to the rest of the print. I'm calling that a "positive y direction shift".
The offending y-axis is belt-driven by a single NEMA 17 stepper motor. The belt is tight (not too tight I don't think) and well-aligned. It would be difficult for it to become unaligned or lose tension since it runs along a piece of extruded aluminium that is very rigid.
It took a long time to notice the pattern. Some prints don't have the problem, and some prints I simply cannot finish no matter what I do. Finally I found a model that reliably reproduces the problem, on the same move, on about 50% or so of its layers.
This piece is supposed to be straight up & down. Wild.
The moves that cause the shift are on this red line.
The issue seems to only occur on curved moves with a radius of approximately 2-3 mm that point their convex side towards the y-negative direction. Larger or smaller radius moves don't cause the problem. In fact sharp turns don't cause the problem either. **Only 2-3 mm radius moves with their convex side towards y-negative produce the issue.** No other kind of move causes the problem.
I think the offending move is highlighted here in red, but it might be one of the two moves either side of it. I haven't been able to narrow it down.
Also note that there is no opportunity on this part of the G-code for the hotend to snag on the model, and I see no evidence of this when it happens. If it were, I imagine a small model like this would simply dislodge, rather than jamming the y-axis.
~~I've tried lowering the y-axis acceleration, to the point where you can hear the y-axis spooling up and down as it slowly accelerates to and fro, and the problem remains. What is especially baffling is that if I leave the y-axis acceleration at 300 mm/s<sup>2</sup>, the shifting never happens in the negative y-direction, only in the positive. And even if I lower it to 50 mm/s<sup>2</sup>, the shifting still happens towards positive y. So somehow this problem is *independent* of y-axis acceleration as set in the firmware.~~
~~One thing I have noticed, is that even if you can visibly see how slowly the y-axis accelerates, when the problem occurs, the y-axis seems to launch itself into overdrive and whip around that corner as fast as possible, to the point that it overwhelms itself. I'm almost certain the moves that cause the skip are breaking the acceleration limit, but I have no idea what to do about it. It seems like a bug in the firmware, like instead of reducing the acceleration it's increasing the acceleration.<br>~~
~~I would guess that somewhere in the code there should be a mathf.abs() around a term, so it slows down the move whether it's positive or negative, but that's pure speculation.~~
**The above paragraphs no longer appear to be true. I changed the y acceleration limit to 50 mm/s<sup>2</sup> and the piece printed perfectly. It's possible the firmware update made a difference. I've also enabled EEPROM, so that may have changed something as well. It's also possible that by re-compiling the firmware every time I made a change in the past, I made an error that misled me about the problem. I will try to reproduce the problem and post an answer about it if I manage to, otherwise I may just close the question.**
I'm hesitant to say the firmware is the problem because a) I don't know enough to confirm it and b) it makes the solution super difficult: either wait for a solution from the developers, or write it myself. Whilst I could find & write the solution, it would take a lot of work and I'm hoping it's simpler than that.
I've recently upgraded the Repetier firmware from 0.92 to 1.0, and the problem has remained. This also has happened when controlling the printer from Repetier Host, Repetier Server and Octopi, so I'm confident it's not the controller. I'm also using Slic3r.
Here are some photos of the y-axis belt as requested:
Motor:
Idler:
# Answer
> 4 votes
You see this for a few reason. First you are going too fast and you are getting belt shift from the whip lash. You can mitigate that by going slower and adjusting your Jerk settings to lower. Though usually this is not a consistent wall. Usually you see this.
That said it is likely you have not adjusted the current to your stepper motors correctly. I don't know if your system has pololus, but you will want to adjust your current carefully. If you hear thudding from your stepper or the stepper cannot move, you have not done this correctly. Note I've fried many boards adjusting these, make sure to do it with the board unplugged or with a ceramic screw driver. Here is a more complete guide.
A last option is your system has too much friction as Ultimaker points out in their trouble shooting guide. You said your belts are very tight. I wonder if you have them So tight you are actually creating binding. Check to make sure the belts are not rubbing in any way.
> Leaning: A leaning print is usually caused by friction causing the print head to move a shorter distance than expected. Make sure that the short belts that connect the stepper motors to the axes do not rub up against the main body of the printer. Similarly make sure that the pulleys on the stepper motors that the belts ride over are not touching the side of the printer. If they are you must move the pulley closer to the stepper motor.
My bet is it's current.
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Tags: reprap, firmware, repetier, troubleshooting
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thread-4660 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4660 | Alunar m508 Firmware | 2017-09-27T03:31:38.793 | # Question
Title: Alunar m508 Firmware
I have a Alunar M508 machine that I am trying to get new firmware on. The firmware that was loaded on the machine wasn't very good. The x axis was mirrored and the home point was way off. I was looking into Marlin to put on the machine, but don't have any experience on what to edit in the code to make it work for this machine.
Does anyone have any experience with this machine? Uploading new firmware that works or editing the code to make it work for this machine. I appreciate any help!
Here is a link to the firmware I am currently using. I'm on MacOS Sierra 10.12.5 using the 1.6.8 Arduino IDE.
# Answer
The Alunar firmware you linked is a fork from the main Marlin firmware. If the bed Y direction is reversed, usually the stepper is incorrectly placed (mirrored) this is seen frequently for the Anet A8 printer which is very similar to your printer. In your case the X direction is wrong, this is usually related to the wiring of the stepper, reversing the connector by 180 degrees should do the trick (hardware solution). As a software solution, changing direction is not difficult in Marlin based firmware; you just want to invert the stepper direction; the following section in the configuration.h file does that for you:
```
// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
```
Just change `INVERT_X_DIR` to `true`.
If your home position is still not working for you, you should look into this section of the same configuration file:
```
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -33
#define Y_MIN_POS -10
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
Change the `MIN_POS` positions as such that it starts at the corner of the bed. A more in depth bed center calibration tutorial can be found here.
---
P.S. Please **do not print** `anti-wobble caps for the Z-axis rods` (as mentioned in another answer), these are **not reducing the wobble**, in fact they cause problems. What happens if you constrain the top is that you get a statically indeterminate construction; forces and displacements are not predictable! Better solutions to eliminate Z-wobble are lifting devices that decouple X/Y movement from the threaded rod (eccentricity of the threaded rod) from the Z movement. Also fixate the threaded rod above the springy stepper-to-threaded-rod coupler.
> 1 votes
# Answer
*disclaimer*: I am the maintainer of the firmware that you linked.
---
The firmware will not improve your print quality. well, it may to some extent, but for the most part, it wont.
There is fine tuning involved that may be set for MY printer, but the values may need to be changed for you. Not to mention the physical tuning that I have done with my printer. Software is not the place to initially look for print quality improvements.
Some examples:
I printed anti-wobble caps for the Z-axis rods. Which improved the print drastically for me. As the print got higher, the quality got worse.
I printed Z-stop improvements, so I could fine tune the Z-stop.
I printed X & Y belt tensioners. Loose belts cause skipped steps which causes poor quality prints.
> 0 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, marlin, firmware, alunar-m508
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thread-5247 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5247 | What is the largest microSD card that a Monoprice Select Mini can read? | 2018-01-09T16:21:06.117 | # Question
Title: What is the largest microSD card that a Monoprice Select Mini can read?
I have a Monoprice Select Mini v2 and it came with a 256 MB SD card. I have a bunch of 16 GB cards. I have made sure that the new SD card has a FAT32 filesystem. I copy the gcode file onto this card and when I put it in the printer, it can't find any files!
And yes, the file is at the root level of the filesystem and it uses the proper naming convention. The file works on the old card.
Since the old card still works, this isn't an emergency, but I want to have a backup and I don't have any other cards that small.
# Answer
Unfortunately, the answer isn't as simple as that a specific size of SD card works and another size doesn't. The Marlin firmware wiki mentions:
> The SD- or MMC- Card must be formatted as FAT and must have a MMC interface. This is more likely with cards \<= 2 GB.
MMC is the predecessor of SD. SD cards are *not* necessarily fully backwards compatible with MMC. Apparently, Marlin uses some features specific to MMC, so your card should support it.
The SD card support in Marlin is based on the Arduino SD Card Library, which further mentions:
> The library supports FAT16 and FAT32 file systems on standard SD cards and SDHC cards.
Based on this:
* Cards should be formatted FAT16 or FAT32.
* Cards bigger than 32 GB definitely won't work (not SD or SDHC).
* Cards at most 2 GB will probably work.
* Cards between 2 GB and 32 GB *might* work, depending on the specifics of the card.
> 7 votes
# Answer
The maximum size is 32 GB, however using microSD has a little disadvantage:
1. The microSD adapter and Micro memory are wrong assembled and the chip are unable to be read.
Solution: stick with a tape adhesive to keep Micro memory and SD adapter well aligned
2. The SD adapter can't be read on the 3D printer
Solution: Add an extra tape adhesive over the SD adapter just like sticker, to make tight the assembly inside the reader.
Clean the contacts of the SD adapter, normally has the same issue like nintendo cartridge.
I´m planning to get a bunch of SD cards instead microSD's, none of SD 8 GB and 16 GB are failing due wrong contact assembly.
> 0 votes
# Answer
1. Get a copy of Partition Wizard (Free)
2. Take your 16G or 32G or ...? SD card and delete the existing partition.
3. Create a 2G partition and format it as FAT.
Yes, you are wasting a lot of the SD card space but given the price of these things these days, who cares. And it will work.
> 0 votes
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Tags: firmware, hardware, monoprice-select-mini, microsd
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thread-6085 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6085 | How to sort G-code on SD card based on material (ABS|PLA|SBS)? | 2018-06-04T07:42:42.550 | # Question
Title: How to sort G-code on SD card based on material (ABS|PLA|SBS)?
I have various G-code files stored at SDCard attached to my Prusa i3 MK2S printer. They are either for ABS, PLA or SBS. The more files I had on the SD card, the more I was running into trouble of finding for which material is which G-code.
To tackle the situation I created folders `ABS`, `PLA` and `SBS` and put new files into those directories.
---
Is there any better method of finding, backwards from G-code, which material settings were intended to be used?
If so, is there a way to read temperature settings from G-code by Prusa i3 firmware without printing the actual model?
# Answer
Good question as I also ran into some files not remembering for which purpose or which material I printed these. The online G-code visualizers do not display the temperature or the correct filament width, so basically that won't help you (unless you modify the open source programs...). Reading from firmware would not be possible without adding a new feature, as far as I know, this is not implemented in Marlin Firmware or in Prusa firmware (which is based on Marlin).
When using a printer server like OctoPrint, you can store your G-code files in a folder structure that you can define yourself; so basically create a directory structure based on the material type, brand, etc.
However, it is relatively easy to write a small program in Python to read a file and interpret the lines (even if you're not a programmer). There are lots of tutorials and examples to find to open files read the file e.g. line by line and detect strings to identify the settings for G-codes M104/M109 (hot end temperature) and M140/M190 (bed temperature). Usually you slice your models with a specific set of bed and hot end temperature (which you know), so basically you can find out which material was meant to be printed with the G-code file. You could even let the program sort the files for you by moving them into separate folders.
I'll add it to my list of things I'd like to do some rainy day! :)
*Note that some printers use different, or even custom G-codes to control bed temperature; e.g. when reading Ultimaker 3 G-code files you cannot see the bed temperature!*
> 3 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, g-code, microsd, sd
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thread-6055 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6055 | How do skirts aid print bed adhesion? | 2018-05-29T01:40:38.827 | # Question
Title: How do skirts aid print bed adhesion?
In cura one of the options under "build plate adhesion" is "skirt", which seems to simply print a loop around, but not touching, my print. How is this supposed to help my prints stick to the bed?
# Answer
> 4 votes
The skirt will only prime the nozzle, which is something really important for the first layer adhesion. Ususally the first layer has slightly more material (or a lower height) respect to the other layers, and this is done mainly to push the most material against the plate, and this will give adhesion. Without a proper priming of the nozzle this just won't happen everywhere.
---
From the Simplify3D guide:
> Adjustments to the First Layer Height allow you to vary the amount of pressure the filament exerts against the bed. There are actually two ways to adjust the height and pressure:
>
> **Percentages under 100% will reduce the height** of the layer being printed (with no change to the extrusion amount). For example, if you entered 75%, your first layer height is reduced while your extrusion remains at 100%. Another way to think of this is that 100% of your extrusion will be forced into a space that is 75% of the layer height. **This reduction in height generates extra pressure and more surface area for that layer, which will help the first layer adhere to the print bed.**
>
> In other cases, using a **percentage above 100% is helpful**. For example, if you are **printing at very fine layer heights, such as 0.05mm**, a tiny variance in your bed leveling can result in poor first layer adhesion. Using a First Layer Height well above 100% can be extremely helpful in these cases. Many machines benefit from 200 or 300% for the first layer height when the layer height is 0.05 mm or 0.1 mm. The increased thickness of the first layer **can help absorb small defects in the build plate** and provide more surface contact area, which will result in better first layer adhesion.
Imho, the life is too short to print at 0.05mm, and my printer doesn't show bed issues, therefore i'll go with less than 100% first layer height.
I don't have the standard cura settings available, and i also think that with different 3d printers with different filaments it makes only a little sense to discuss about "cura standard settings". In any case, my very standard standard settings are: 0.2mm layer height, 0.15mm first layer height. With these settings and some hairspray on the glass i almost forgot about model pop off in midprint.
# Answer
> 5 votes
These skirts they don't contribute at all to help your product adhere better to the build plate other than priming your nozzle so that it is ready to lay down filament for your product.
A skirt **does** give a good indication of the adhesion prior to printing your product, if the skirt does not adhere, maybe it is a good time to stop the print and re-slice with different options or fix the bed level.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Skirts prime the nozzle- getting the filament to first adhere to the build platform is necessary for the entire print. Once the filament starts to stick it usually will continue to.
Skirts can also help block any air drafts that might blow the filament away from adhering in the 1st layer of the print
# Answer
> 1 votes
**To use skirts as a bed adhesion tool**
1. Make the value of Skirt Offset from part to 0
2. Set the number of Skirt outlines to 10 or 15 ,so that it forms an extended outer perimeter of the first layer
notes:
* This also doubles as a primer for the nozzle
* Also can be used to make minor adjustments to the distance between the bed and the nozzle , before the first layer begins printing
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Tags: heated-bed, adhesion
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thread-6090 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6090 | 3D printer filament will not load after running the printer out of filament | 2018-06-04T17:12:49.220 | # Question
Title: 3D printer filament will not load after running the printer out of filament
We wanted to test the post process properties of PVA but did not want to print anything. We unloaded the ABS that was in the printer and then started loading some PVA. After the PVA was loaded we let it keep going through the loading process until it pushed all the PVA out and we had our test sample. We then stopped the loading process and started the loading process again to put the ABS back so we could continue with normal printing procedures. Now, the ABS will not load into the right side and started making a clicking/ticking noise. Our printer is a Flashforge Dreamer. What is wrong with my printer and how can I fix it?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Run some cleaning filament through the extruder at the printing temperature of your PVA or ABS filament, whichever is greater, until the old stuff has been completely displaced. Then load the new filament until the cleaning filament has been completely displaced.
This should be done every time you are switching materials, unless you don't mind disassembling the extruder and/or hotend and clean it out manually.
# Answer
> 5 votes
PVA is nasty filament to print (from experience). I use it in the Ultimaker 3 in a separate designed core (BB) and even with that core the filament frequently cooks up and carbonizes clogging the nozzle resulting in grinding of the filament at the feeder (it also attracts water really easy, so keep it in the bag with desiccant bags).
To clean the inside of the nozzle, a few techniques exist to remove blockage. E.g. by performing a `cold pull` or using the `atomic method`. Both techniques rely on the mechanism to insert the (cleaning) filament when it's hot and remove it quickly at a lower temperature. E.g. see here or here.
The trick is that you pull out all the goo inside the nozzle, you do that by raising the temperature and sticking some (cleaning or high temperature) filament (your ABS will do fine) to the goo. When the temperature lowers, you quickly pull and hope that some of the goo sticks to you cleaning filament. Cut of the tip and repeat until no goo or burnt particles come out and you can push the cleaning filament through the nozzle. You do not need the automatic feeding, it's all manual labor, just raise temperature through the menu and press the lever of the extruder to load the cleaning filament, lower temp and pull back after cooling a bit while pressing the extruder lever.
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Tags: extruder, filament, diy-3d-printer, abs
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thread-6080 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6080 | Strange grooves with ABS | 2018-06-01T17:53:13.627 | # Question
Title: Strange grooves with ABS
I am experiencing strange grooves in my ABS prints; with PLA everything is fine. Some layers seem to randomly overextruded and others underextruded.
My parameters:
* Temp: 240°C
* Retraction Distance: 5 mm
* Retraction Speed: 70 mm/s
* Print Speed: 35 mm/s
* Combing mode: All
* Max Comb Distance with no Retract: 5 mm
It shouldn't be a problem with the Z-axis or the temperature control. It also only appears on large objects.
# Answer
Retraction distance, print speed (I don't know about Combing mode or Comb Distance but I doubt that's the problem) have IMO nothing to do with this.
Neither would *hotend* temperature.
> It shouldn't be a problem with the Z-axis or the temperature control. It also only appears on large objects.
You have a very fine X/Y layer so albeit your affirmation, I must raise the idea that it might actually be exactly the temperature control of the heat bed (if you have one) and it definitely seems to be the z axis. How would this problem appear otherwise?
You say it affects only large objects, and also that it doesn't affect PLA, does it affect large PLA objects? Photos would be helpful :-) !
**My hypothesis is that you have a heat-bed and that the heatbed is changing the z-height.**
It does so when it changes temperature (because material contracts/expands according to temperature), and heatbeds change temperature all the time.
Usually you have the same temperature control method all the time, so small or big objects doesn't change the method, but what they change is the time they stay on the same level; small objects less, big objects much so the z-bulging will be seen if you spend 2 minutes on one layer, while it might be mitigated on a layer taking 20 seconds.
What's your heat bed temperature control software / how is it configured?
FYI I use Marlin and I get these problems when I don't (correctly) auto-tune the heat-bed pid or use bang-bang beat-bed heating.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, abs, extrusion
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thread-6096 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6096 | What can cause the build plate to slip? | 2018-06-05T01:22:33.147 | # Question
Title: What can cause the build plate to slip?
2 days into a 5-day build, I came home from work and found the build ruined because the build plate had slipped.
I'm using a Raise 3D N2 Plus printer, with the standard glass build plate that comes with it, attached via 4 clips: two stationary ones at the back, and two standard binder clips at the front, which shipped with the printer, which hold the glass build plate plate to the heated surface beneath.
The left-side clip had come off of the heated surface, remaining clipped to the top and bottom of the glass plate, and the whole thing slipped an inch or so. I immediately canceled the build, and I can start another one, but before I do I'd like to know how this happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again.
What typically causes the plate clips to come free? Is there anything I can do about it? Will adding more clips around the edges help? I'd really prefer not to ruin more builds if I can help it...
# Answer
Your nozzle may have caught up with the print somehow pushing the binder clip off by moving the glass slate.
Apparently this is a more common problem. Try adding more binder clips, this has been reported to help preventing shifting.
Maybe with some ingenuity you could develop your own fastening system depending on the bed. Alternatively, you could make the underside of the glass a little sticky so that it does not move easily (a little PVA based glue maybe or hairspray, I've done that with my mouse mat with 3DLAC :) which is now not slipping from the desk).
> 1 votes
# Answer
Before two month ago I tested double-sided tape between bed and glass plate. It's awesome and really works perfectly. No more clips, so I'm able to print to the complete area. And no more slipping. Don't use that much tape, just a little bit at the edges should be totally fine.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: build-plate
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thread-5876 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5876 | Printing a building from its laser scanned exterior point cloud | 2018-04-25T20:56:10.340 | # Question
Title: Printing a building from its laser scanned exterior point cloud
I have a very dense point cloud (billions of points) of the exterior of a building obtained by laser scanning it with a Leica head. I successfully subsampled it down to around 500,000 and I'm trying to print the building by first creating a mesh. I tried using CloudCompare, Meshlab and PDAL, using Poisson surface reconstruction. However, the resulting mesh is full of holes, mainly in the roofs which have the lowest point density, and I cannot print it. Is there any algorithm which could use the fact that the point cloud is precisely the exterior part of a geometric thing?
# Answer
Yes there are similar algorithms, but (afaik) not as ready to use programms. I wrote a bachelor thesis by my own, where i converted poind cloud datas of scanned surfaces into contour octrees. This based on the work of Laine (https://users.aalto.fi/~laines9/publications/laine2010i3d\_paper.pdf) and the approach of using sparse voxel contour octrees, but instead of using polygons it used point clouds. This way was intended to get fast, good approximated results for visualizing.
But there may be also other slower and more accurate algorithms.
Btw. this question is not good placed in the 3D printing forum, because it is a question about data conversion.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Filling out holes in a mesh created using large liar data points is a mess.
The actual way to do it in the industry is to manually fill all holes ( Yes I know it takes for ever to do and people get paid to do this )
Import the mesh into Autodesk 3Ds max and go about fixing the holes one at a time if you want it to be accurate or select all and use the cap function .
Hope this solves your problem .
> 1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, software
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thread-6100 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6100 | Subdivision surface for STL files | 2018-06-05T09:35:19.560 | # Question
Title: Subdivision surface for STL files
How much should I subdivide a surface in preparation for 3D printing?
For computer graphics, I know that I need to balance the smoothness and the rendering time, but for printing, I'd like it to be completely smooth. Are there any reasons why I shouldn't subdivide a lot (e.g. 7x) in preparation for 3D printing?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Subdividing an existing mesh further won't do anything because you're not adding additional detail, just representing the same thing with more triangles. Subdividing as "preparation" doesn't make much sense. You should make sure the mesh is created with sufficient detail *while modelling*.
A mesh created for 3d printing should generally have a lot more triangles than one created for use in rendering, but within reason. It doesn't make sense to make the mesh (much) more detailed than the printer can print, and similarly having lots of triangles can make the slicer slow or unreliable. As a very rough guideline, I would say that 10.000-100.000 triangles per model is reasonable (but this obviously depends on the size and level of detail).
Some slicers may output G-code that will have segments corresponding to each and every triangle in the model, even if these segments are very tiny. This may cause the printer to slow down a lot while printing, but most slicers take care of this by merging small segments into larger ones. Depending on your slicer, you might have to watch out for not having the triangles be so tiny that the number of segments created becomes a problem.
---
Tags: 3d-models, surface
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thread-6102 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6102 | Configuring BLTouch with Marlin firmware | 2018-06-05T13:37:43.077 | # Question
Title: Configuring BLTouch with Marlin firmware
Has anyone configured BLTouch with Marlin firmware?
I could only find videos about older firmware version. I followed this document. To avoid causing any damage to the printer, I removed all connections, took the board out and connected a stepper to Z-axis terminal and BLTouch to Z-min and servo 1. All other axes are not connected. X-min and Y-min end stops were shorted using jumper (Mine is NC configuration).
After updating the firmware, I can move the X and Y steppers, but not Z stepper. There's a blue light glowing inside BLTouch, which turns off if I remove Servo connections.
The `M119` command shows all end stops are open.
Do I have to change pull up settings of end stop?
I cuurently have:
* Marlin 1.1.6
* BLTouch Classic
Here's my configuration file
# Answer
For security reasons, you cannot move Z until home position is applied to X, Y and Z.
With the level sensor attached, we need to home X and Y, and then Z will be homed in the middle of the bed (as configured). Execute `G28` to home all axis and then you shall be able to run 'Z'.
To test that, you can unplug just steppers (with power switched off to prevent damaging the stepper drivers) and move X and Y manually to home position, then just give a touch to the BL sensor (when servo/pin) is deployed to confirm home position.
> 4 votes
# Answer
**Edit:** *The answer below reflected the original question and upload of the configuration that was incorrectly configured. The value of this answer can be found in checking your configuration thoroughly before you post a question. It also answers the question whether pull-up resistors need to be set for the end stops.*
---
Basically you need to follow the instructions of the manual/sheet you mention in your question. Be sure to **get all the changes correct in your configuration.h** file!
E.g. in your configuration
```
//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command
```
should be
```
#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command
```
So no servo was defined (the servo pulls up the pin of the BLTouch sensor)! Also your BLTouch delay is `375` while `100` is prescribed. Please check that you managed to get all the proposed changes in the configuration file (as I stopped comparing for you after finding 2 errors in your configuration!) as I believe that you have not updated your configuration correctly as described. There should be no differences in setup for Marlin 1.1.6 or 1.1.8.
**To answer your question**: No, you do not need to change pull-up settings.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, ramps-1.4, bltouch
--- |
thread-5413 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5413 | Anet A8 hard to insert filament | 2018-02-06T12:59:13.713 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 hard to insert filament
I had been printing with ABS and took the advice to alter the fan so I can see the filament when I am loading it into the cold end. It was tricky but doable. I am now trying with PLA and getting it to line up with the whole is a nightmare. Can the driving cog and guide wheel be moved? A couple of mm would stop the driving cog pushing the filament off line.
# Answer
I was having the same issue as you and know what you are talking about and there is a file that you should print that will help you (I have printed this).
While the file says for the Anet A6, I think the extrude are the same on the Anet A8. It goes under the gear and bearing and guides the filament to the hole. Should work well for you.
Other things that you can do is straighten out the filament. That is what I do, it helps that much more. You can also cut the end at a angle to sharpen the end with a pencil sharpener, also helps find the hole.
So try the file, I think it will help you would.
File --\> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903
> 4 votes
# Answer
On the A8, the idler wheel is fixed, but ought to be in-line with the top of the hot-end if everything is properly assembled. You can also check that the top of the throat is smoothly finished (it should be OK, but you might have a poorly manufactured example).
> 1 votes
# Answer
A lot of people complain on the filament insertion of the Anet A8. Personally, I have no problems at all. I cut the filament under a sharp angle and pre-bend the filament (not completely straight) and push it in the hole, it works every time without having to disassemble the extruder fan. Note that if you have the throat screwed in too much that it sticks out of the aluminum throat holder of the extruder (so not the part where the brass nozzle screws in) it is way more difficult to insert. I kept the top of the throat more or less flush with the block.
Other techniques to insert filament include:
* cutting the old filament (straight cut) and let the extruder feed while you press the new filament on top of the old filament stump, if done correctly the friction will feed the new filament right after the old,
* print filament guides for inside the extruder gear cavity,
* removable or magnetic fan brackets.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: pla, extruder, anet-a8
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thread-6111 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6111 | Would a really short melt-zone be beneficial | 2018-06-07T07:27:17.280 | # Question
Title: Would a really short melt-zone be beneficial
IANAE (I am not an engineer), but I've been wondering: wouldn't it make more sense to limit the length of the melt-zone and hot-end as much as possible? I've been having a lot of problems with nylon causing jams inside the heat-block, this being the region where the filament is no longer rigid, but becomes squishy then liquid as it is heated.
In my extruder (E3d v6) there is a cold section, then a heat-break then about 20mm of hot-end.
If the heating of the filament took place at the last possible moment, say the last couple of mm before the orifice, wouldn't this not only alleviate jamming problems caused by soft filament deforming, but also allow for much more precision with extrusion - less hysteresis due to the reduced volume of semi-liquid material.
I'd imagine that this would work by having a heated nozzle tip, say a nichrome ring around the nozzle orifice, and as the filament hits the inside of the bottom of the nozzle it melts and is forced out the hole.
# Answer
> 8 votes
There is a trade-off between the length of the melt zone and the speed at which you can print. The filament itself is somewhat of an insulator, so as the outside of the filament is heated up by being in contact with the melt zone, the inside stays cold. Therefore, the filament needs a certain amount of time inside the melt zone for the inside to fully melt. If you have a shorter melt zone, you need to print more slowly to give the filament enough time to melt. This is precisely the reason why the E3D volcano exists. It has a longer melt zone, so you can print more quickly.
You can partially compensate for a shorter melt zone by heating the nozzle up more, but there is an upper limit to how hot you can go (you don't want the outside of the filament to *burn* before the inside is melted).
---
Tags: hotend, extrusion, development
--- |
thread-6116 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6116 | Dual extruder unused nozzle is breaking prints | 2018-06-07T13:57:15.437 | # Question
Title: Dual extruder unused nozzle is breaking prints
So I got my first 3d printer, with 2 nozzles. I thought why not, I may want to print 2 colours, dissolvable supports etc in future. But for now, only using one.
I've had good success on small items so far, but when I try to print something that's a big on the bigger side, my "spare" nozzle seems to crash into the side of the print - either snapping a bit off if it's delicate, or losing bed adhesion.
What could be the possible cause of this? I've levelled and re-levelled the bed, but I am losing the heart to keep trying. I have more half-printed broken bits now that successful parts...
Not sure of the relevance, but I'm printing in PLA
# Answer
> 5 votes
I started this as a comment, but it got too long. I have been working for much too long on a multi-extruder printer, and so I understand that the fixed, dual-head designs are somewhat fraught with problems.
I am assuming that this is a mechanism in which the two nozzles are inline in the X-axis, the Y-axis is parallel to the bed and normal to the line between the two nozzles, and the Z-axis is normal to both X and Y (and usually vertical).
When you "bed level", is it clear that both nozzles are "exactly" the same height from the bed everywhere on the bed? If there is anything non-parallel about the movement plane and the bed, it can cause one head to dip lower than the other when over the same position on the bed.
Is twist along the Y-axis of the heads possible? A twist could be because of either looseness or compliance (springiness) in the X-axis. The twist could be induced either through acceleration or by a nozzle being pushed up in reaction to the plastic extrusion against the object.
Is the printing from the active nozzle properly flat, or does it produce verticle bumps? Any vertical ripples will cause any head passing over them to bump against them. Something will need to comply with the force. Either the head will melt through the bump and smear it out a bit, the bed will be pushed downward, or the nozzle pushed upward. If the passive nozzle hits a bump, that compliance will be conveyed to the active nozzle, creating another defect.
Is the passive nozzle cold or hot? It may help to heat the unused nozzle so that it can melt the plastic it touches rather than pushing against it. If this helps at all, it may be necessary to slow down printing so that the passive nozzle has more time to melt through the obstacle.
If you find that the problem is bump defects from the active nozzle, it might help to remove the passive nozzle completely and focus on printing a smooth, even surface with the active nozzle. Debugging that would be easier without the passive nozzle compounding the problem.
---
Tags: dual-nozzle
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thread-6124 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6124 | Flashforge Dreamer not able to read Cura created G-code file | 2018-06-08T09:29:05.637 | # Question
Title: Flashforge Dreamer not able to read Cura created G-code file
I'm using a second hand Flashforge Dreamer with ABS filament and Cura as slicer.
The Flashforge Dreamer cannot read the printing (G-code) file Cura creates, I think due to not knowing what the printer firmware is? I want to use some of the Cura features that the FlashPrint software does not have.
What firmware does Flashforge Dreamer use? I think I have to input to cura the machine details (name not listed on list of printers in the drop down menu) and even Google could not tell me, nor the Flashforge website.
Cura has a built-in list of printer specs, but no Flashforge, so even the name of a clone type of the Flashforge using the same type of firmware would help.
# Answer
> 4 votes
For the Flashforge Creator model an alternative firmware is available; Sailfish. However, Sailfish is not available for the Flashforge Dreamer. As a matter of fact, no alternative firmware is available for the Dreamer as a consequence of the Flashforge Dreamer being closed hardware and closed source.
Not knowing the flavor af firmware (as it is closed source and could well be using a custom firmware build) using Cura to slice models for G-code files gives no guarantee for successful printing.
To be able to use Cura you would have to switch the current board from the Flashforge Dreamer and replace it with a board that accepts Marlin Firmware. Note that there is no default configuration for this pronter available so this requires a little work from you to go through the Marlin configuration file and adjust various constants to make your printer work. *\[**edit:** As pointed out below in the comments, in the process you will lose some of the maximum speed the Dreamer is capable of!\]*
Another option is to buy a license of e.g. Simplify3D (*note that I have no affiliation with Simplfy3D!*) as they claim to support this printer. There could be other software suites that support your printer.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, firmware
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thread-1080 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1080 | OctoPi (Octoprint) time lapse quality issues | 2016-05-02T18:40:44.880 | # Question
Title: OctoPi (Octoprint) time lapse quality issues
I'm trying to squeeze a little better quality out of my time lapses generated by OctoPrint.
I'm using the Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 with a Pi 3. I've already edited the Octopi config to get 720p resolution, but the encoding during time lapse rendering is horrific. Blocky as hell.
Right now the encoding is set up at 5000k. What am I doing wrong here?
# Answer
That bitrate is pretty low, which might explain the blockiness (is that a word?).
From YouTube's upload guidelines, you are encoding at the minimum recommended bitrate for standard 720P video. Maybe you should boost to 7500K (7.5 Mbps) and see if that helps.
Also, it appears that Octopi is merely calling ffmpeg locally and returning the video. The encoding that is being used might be resulting in blockiness. If you have access to the raw photos, you could just dump them into a directory on another machine and generate a video using a less-lossy video codec. Of course, this would only work if the photos you are taking are high quality. Assuming that they are, here is a nice resource for producing videos from image sequences in ffmpeg.
Good luck!
P.S. Alternatively, if you prefer a lightweight video tool with a GUI, you could use ImageJ.
> 3 votes
# Answer
There's a new timelapse plugin called octolapse that may help. One of the things I noticed with the default timelapses is that lots of things change from image to image, which results in HUGE amounts of mpeg artifacts as it has to constantly redraw large parts of the screen. With octolapse and it's stabilized images the change from image to image is very minimal... mostly just the new layer. The reduction of how much stuff is moving means the same, or even lower, encoded bitrate produces far superior movies.
Compare this 11.1 MB file from the default timelapse tool: https://cabbey.smugmug.com/Fun/3D-Printing/i-9DrS42n/A
to this 6.8MB file from octolapse: https://cabbey.smugmug.com/Fun/3D-Printing/i-p3GvvhH/A
Note that these are the SAME PRINT JOB, as I had both tools recording at the same time.
> 3 votes
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Tags: octoprint, raspberry-pi
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thread-5921 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5921 | How to heat up a Printrbot's hotend using an SD card | 2018-05-06T14:30:03.967 | # Question
Title: How to heat up a Printrbot's hotend using an SD card
My Printrbot simple metal's extruder is jammed and I need to heat it up to unjam it. Unfortunately, the printer does't want to connect to my laptop regardless of the program I'm using (Repetier-Host or Cura 15).
Is there a way to use a micro SD card to heat up the printer hotend but not print anything?
# Answer
Sure there is. As you use Cura, you can grab any G-code file (you already have) and use it to set hotend temperature (delete the actual printing part from the file) to get something like this:
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:102
;Filament used: 0.0573674m
;Layer height: 0.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.3.1
; M190 S60 ;-> this sets the bed temperature so we can comment it out
; the next line sets the hotend to 200 degrees Celsius
M104 S200
```
As every line that starts with a semi-colon is a comment and is ignored by the printer, `M104 S200`, would be the only line you need in the printout file.
If you're interested in knowing more - look here: G-codes on reprap wiki
> 2 votes
# Answer
I heated it up and was able to extract some plastic that had gotten jammed in the hot ends opening.
I heated up the hotend by commenting out all the other lines of code in Cura's start and end G-code tabs (must have missed some because the printer moved. I would just unplug the printer when it stopped moving). I used an SD card but it would probably work with USB too. I tried to force the filament in to force the jam out of the hotend, but that did nothing.
I took apart the extruder assembly and discovered that a section of filament that was too wide got stuck in the hotend's entrance. I pulled the filament out using me multitool and put the extruder back together. Hope this helps others with a similar problem.
> 1 votes
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Tags: extruder, hotend, microsd, sd
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thread-6128 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6128 | Problem in X and Y-axis dimensions | 2018-06-09T06:03:22.857 | # Question
Title: Problem in X and Y-axis dimensions
3d printing is a fun hobby for me. The problem that I face is deviation in X or Y axis dimensions. When I print something with specific dimensions there is 0.7 or 0.4 mm difference (smaller in X or Y dimension) when I compare it with the design. Even when I print a cylinder, it is oval. I don't have a problem with the Z-axis. My 3D printer is a Prusa i3.
How can I fix this problem?
* Can I solve it it through the software?
* Do I have to change something of the hardware of the printer?
# Answer
Usually uneven dimensions in X and Y directions are a result of improper belt tension of one of your belts. With improper belt tension, the positioning of the printer head is less accurate and typically results in non-circular prints. You should check the belt tension and adjust the tension, not too sloppy, and not too much tension (as it stresses the stepper motor which can lead to missing micro steps).
Furthermore, the uneven dimensional differences you mention (are these values you mention for similar sized dimensions? e.g. is this measured on a test cube print), if they are smaller than the design, and if it is a complex design, can also be related to shrinkage, e.g. ABS is a well known material that shrinks. Plastic shrinkage is basically the same in all directions, but complex shapes could introduce stresses preventing even shrinkage in all directions. To counteract shrinkage, you should slice your model scaled, e.g. scale to 102% to counteract a 2% shrinkage.
If the belts check out right and you are printing in PLA, you may want to check the steps per mm value. This calibration is only useful when you print a test cube at e.g. 200%, the inaccuracies also increase with the same ratio. If not, than it is a positioning error, caused by some play in the machine. Please check the bearings.
> 1 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3
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thread-5594 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5594 | ooze shield vs priming tower, do you need both? | 2018-03-05T22:17:33.550 | # Question
Title: ooze shield vs priming tower, do you need both?
I've been experimenting with two color prints. In my first test, I enabled a priming tower and the print came out OK, but there was definitely some oozing from the non-active head and left a lot of blemishes on the print.
I'm trying another print now and I also enabled an ooze shield.
This got me to thinking, if you are going to print an ooze shield, do you need a priming tower?
I'm using a lulzbot Taz6 with the dual extruder v3
# Answer
> 2 votes
I have the same printer you do. I recall that the ooze shield is printed in alternating layers; first from E0 and then the next layer from E1. But on a given layer, I don't think that there is a guarantee that the ooze shield will be printed in the filament about to be laid down for the part of the layer. (But I might be wrong on this.) But when it comes time to print the ooze shield, what will happen if the filament has already drizzled out during the print of the last layer? The first part of that ooze shield won't get printed properly and might end up causing a print failure.
As a separate issue, I found that an ooze shield is only helpful if the overall XY diameter of the print is not too great. This is because it only helps when the print head crosses the perimeter. If the print head spends a fair amount of time inside the perimeter, then the idle head can still continue to ooze out unwanted filament.
So for many of my prints, I started using the priming tower, but skipping the ooze shield.
---
Tags: dual-nozzle, lulzbot
--- |
thread-6130 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6130 | Extrusion stops during print | 2018-06-09T10:47:22.053 | # Question
Title: Extrusion stops during print
I changed the filament (PLA) in my Wanhao Duplicator I3+. I ended the first try to print when I saw that the 'lines' were too thin. I re-sliced with a higher temperature (195°C instead of 190°C). Now the print started without a problem but after about 25% no more filament came out of the extruder. What can be the reason and how can I resolve it?
The filament is from Vertex, grey. The object that I use to test is a 20 mm hollow cube from Thingiverse that I have used for the previous filament too.
I am not sure that this is a clogging problem since the print starts with no problems. It just stopped after 25%. When I started another print I was able to finish by increasing the temperature.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I redid the print in order to reply to some questions posed in the answer of @kdtop. The print started but the output was not consistent and sometimes stopped. The temperature is 195°C and sometimes 'drop' to 194°C. First I pushed the new real so that the extruder did not need to pull so much. When this did not solve the problem I changed the temperature to 200°C. Now the output became consistent and my print finished. It was not as good as the one that I did with my previous filament. The top was not as neatly closed. Only the last 2 layers covered more or less for 100% the surface (perhaps 200°C is too high for this?).
For me the solution is to higher the temperature to 200°C (or perhaps 205°C).
# Answer
> 1 votes
My slicer (Cura-lulzbot) has a setting for initial printing temp, and then printing temp after the first few layers. Is it possible that your temp is initially OK, but then drops too low? Does your printer have a readout that shows the current temp? Is the temp still OK when it stops?
It sounds like you are printing a sample cube, so I assume not too large. Could you simulate this by just directly command your printer to extrude 500 mm of filament, or longer? Then see if it clogs. That would tell you if it was a physical problem with your printer instead of some change specified by the G-code for a sliced print.
---
Tags: filament, pla, wanhao
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thread-6134 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6134 | On a LENS printer, does the head move, or is it table that moves when printing? | 2018-06-09T13:48:38.267 | # Question
Title: On a LENS printer, does the head move, or is it table that moves when printing?
I'm wanting to know how a LENS printer moves to create 3D prints.
# Answer
Whilst this is not a definitive answer, if you watch the video on their website, LENS 450 Systems, it is the bed that moves in the X and Y axes - the head remains static. The bed also *appears* to move in the Z axis, after each layer (as there is noticeable bed wobble).
However, the head is on an armature so it could be that which moves - it is not entirely clear.
LENS 450 System for 3D Printed Metals
Note that the MR-7 system appears to be similar to the 450, with its "3 Axis CNC Control System". However, the 850-R differs, inasmuch that it has:
* 5 Axis CNC Control System
* XYZ gantry + tilt-rotate table
which are not mentioned in the specifications of the 450 and MR-7, so the 850-R could well differ from the video.
> 1 votes
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Tags: z-axis, metal-printing, printing-powder
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thread-6140 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6140 | What is retract speed & length? | 2018-06-09T22:00:55.430 | # Question
Title: What is retract speed & length?
On a 3D XYZ printer extruder, I found two terms I have no idea about:
* retract speed
* retract length
What are these and why/how should they be set?
# Answer
> 9 votes
Retraction is the reversal of the direction of the filament and is generally used when moving from one non-contiguous point of the print to another, in order to prevent *stringing* and *oozing* of the filament. If retraction is not employed then the filament still coming out of the nozzle, after the last point was printed (and paused), will stretch, thus creating a fine string, as the print head is moved to the next position where printing is to recommence.
The **retraction speed** is the speed at which the filament is retracted, or pulled back (by the extruder stepper), and the **retraction length** is the amount that is pulled back.
These settings are dealt with in the XYZware User manual, on page 43, section **11.5 Retraction**
> **11.5 Retraction**
>
> **11.5.1 Retract Length**
>
> In printing object, before large movement of print module, print filament will be drawn back, such that slight negative pressure occurs in print nozzle, preventing material from adhering to the object while moving, improving surface quality of print object
>
> **11.5.2 Activate Threshold**
>
> Such setting will allow users to set up retraction mechanism activation style. For setup mode, users usually specify the minimal print module movement distance for retraction mechanism activation
>
> **11.5.3 Lifting height for extruder withdrawal**
>
> After retraction, the print module will be elevated slightly with such setup value. Such action prevents material from adhering to the object, and makes a more orderly final print stop point. However, it should be noted that excessively large elevation will extend print preparation time for the next print layer, and portions of angles may results cooling and difficult to bond conditions between layers
>
> **11.5.4 Add Extra Filament after Travel \< Retraction**
>
> Material compensation may be used to improve upon holes or poor extrusion due to excessive extruder withdrawal
Retraction speed isn't dealt with in the above section though. In section 3.3, of the XYZware Pro. User Manual, it is mentioned:
> **Retract Speed**
>
> The speed for pulling filament backwards. Refer to the function introduction in the next chapter for more about retraction.
>
> **Hint**:
>
> Cooperation of retraction speed and other print speeds will affect feeding stability directly in printing. A print speed slightly faster than the retraction speed would prevent material squeeze from interrupt.
However, the manual doesn't then go on to give any setting. However, the default settings should suffice, unless you are experiencing issues with stringing and/or oozing.
A further explanation can be found here, Stringing and oozing:
> **Reason 2: Retraction Length**
>
> The retraction function includes two setting options. One is retraction length and the other is retraction speed. The retraction length determines how much melted filament will be pulled out of the nozzle. In general, the more plastic that is retracted from the nozzle, the less likely the nozzle is to ooze while moving. As for the issue, the default setting in the expert mode is enough for you to solve the problem. If you encounter stringing with your print job, you can increase the retraction length slightly to test again to see if the performance improves.
>
> **Reason 3: Retraction Speed**
>
> The retraction speed determines how fast the filament is retracted from the nozzle. If the speed is too low, it will make no difference to your print job., the melted filament will still drop down through the nozzle and leave on the model. On the contrary, if the speed is too fast, the filament will be back to the nozzle and cannot be extruded out in the next movement of printing. As for the retraction speed setting, users can reserve the default setting which is perfect for almost every models.
### Testing your settings
As 0scar has reminded me, there are a good number of retraction test prints available (cubes, towers, bridges), which will help you check that your settings are adequate. These prints provide models that have a lot of *print breaks* (points between which printing is paused and then resumed), which can cause stringing to be exhibited. See RepRap Wiki - Oozebane:
> **Oozebane**
>
> Objective: stop material oozing out of the nozzle during 'non-printing' moves.
>
> Many extruders will emit (ooze) plastic even when the extruder motor is not turning. To overcome this your slicing software needs to 'retract' the print medium during head movement when not printing. The retraction creates negative pressure within the hot end heating chamber which effectively sucks the print medium back up through the nozzle, stopping it from oozing.
>
> **Calibration Object: oozebane-test.stl**
>
> The calibration object prints two towers about 30 mm apart. The head must move between each of the towers at each layer. If your printer is not set correctly then you will see many fine filaments (or strings) between the two towers. You can eliminate these filaments by eliminating ooze.
>
> **Calibration Object 2 (Variable sized towers for testing ooze): variable\_size\_ooze\_test\_nobase.stl**
>
> This is a simple model to help tune reversal parameters for a stepper extruder (using much less filament before actually testing the ooziness). It consists of a number of towers with different thicknesses, with different spacing between each tower. A well-tuned bot should be able to produce even the smallest towers.
A simple google search, thingiverse retraction, shows up a lot of examples, such as:
Check out the following (suspiciously similar) tags<sup>1</sup>, for even more examples:
---
### Additional note for Bowden setups
As Trish notes in the comments:
> According to my experience<sup>2</sup> it is generally a good idea to add 2 to 4 mm of retraction to a bowden setup in comparison to a direct drive when dialing in the perfect retraction. This is, because some distance is "eaten" by the flex of the Bowden tube.
---
<sup>1</sup> It seems as if Thingiverse could benefit from tag synonyms
<sup>2</sup> and Thomas Sanladerer's advice during a stream
---
Tags: print-quality, retraction
--- |
thread-6137 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6137 | Can't print anything, clicking and low extrusion | 2018-06-09T16:30:27.027 | # Question
Title: Can't print anything, clicking and low extrusion
I am the owner of a pretty Anycubic Mega I3 and it was very cool to own it.
However, now I have several problems when printing with it. It clicks all along, at high or low temperature, at 5 mm above the plate, and the result is very disgusting. It is the same with the basic black PLA, or with other PLA from ICE-Filaments but I can't do anything.
I use Cura and I've reset it several times, using the defaults options or not.
Here are two examples of some prints (normal cube):
example 1
and Example 2
# Answer
> 2 votes
I had a similar issue after installing an E3D V6 using a Bowden extruder.
PLA needs a heat break that has a PTFE liner, since with all metal heat breaks, it's probable that the filament will reach glass transition temperature in the heat break and stop flowing properly.
Also, I had filament that was 1.86 mm instead of 1.75 mm, which caused it to bind inside the PTFE tube.
Before correcting these issues, I was able to temporarily fix the issue by doing a cold pull to unclog the extruder, and was able to print around 10 cm in height of a 20x20x20 mm cube.
To do a cold pull, heat your extruder between 80-100°C, and then pull out the filament. If successful, the tip of the filament will be shaped as the inside of the nozzle. If needed, heat the extruder to 200°C and manually push the filament to fill up the nozzle and heat brake, then let it cool down to the above temps and do the pull.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The "click of death" is the feed bolt skipping as it chews a bite out of your filament. Your filament feed is encountering resistance and the feed bolt is slipping. I've seen that sad spaghetti so many times. After unclogging your head with a cold pull and cutting off the mangled filament, you'll have some things to try:
I had a Lulzbot with the older Bowden extruder and learned to prevent spaghetti air prints by: 1) replacing PTFE liners periodically, and 2) increasing temperature for certain colors. My black PLA required +5C over my natural PLA, which was a total surprise.
Now I have a new Lultzbot with the metal extruder and life is good. All metal hot-ends are so much nicer.
---
Tags: software, hardware
--- |
thread-6147 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6147 | Anet A6 printer power on/off | 2018-06-11T01:52:48.410 | # Question
Title: Anet A6 printer power on/off
Just built my new Anet A6 and not seeing a power off button. How do I power it down safely? Am I missing something?
# Answer
> 4 votes
The Anet A6 does not have a power switch. To power the printer you need to put the power cord into the socket. To "safely power off" the printer you need to pull the plug from the socket. You can even pull the plug during usage when it appears to go wrong (e.g. when the nozzle is digging into the bed). The printer runs a continuous running program/instructions that can be interrupted at any time, it does not have to be shut down according to a certain procedure like computer operating systems that use a proper file system.
You can insert a power button in the power cord yourself for ease of use.
Furthermore, it is pretty common to replace the power cord for a computer power cord with a C13 plug and connect a C14 socket with power button (and an optional fuse) to the power supply unit:
Please note that it is very dangerous to mess with the mains voltage, so please be sure what you do or get help from someone that does. Use proper tools to crimp wire correctors to the leads.
If you are not able to do the rewiring of cables to put in a switch, plug the printer into a power strip with an integrated switch button.
---
Tags: anet-a6
--- |
thread-1100 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1100 | Hatchbox Silver PLA settings? | 2016-05-04T15:03:36.370 | # Question
Title: Hatchbox Silver PLA settings?
I have a RepRap Prusa i2. I have done the majority of my printing with clear PLA that I got on the cheap from eBay. It works just fine.
I bought a roll of Hatchbox Silver PLA (1.75 mm) from Amazon. I have never had a print go well with it. I have tried various combinations of hotter and cooler extruder and bed (180 - 220°C extruder, 50 - 78°C bed). Prints always either curl up from the bed after 5-20 layers are deposited or delaminate in the middle of the print. I print directly on the heated glass bed, and have also tried various cooling fan settings.
Does anyone have good settings (Slic3r) to use with this stuff? Or any other advice for getting a successful print?
# Answer
> 3 votes
I've been using Hatchbox 1.75 mm (but white), and settled on 190°C extruder temp, and 60°C bed. I've had trouble getting some prints to adhere to the bed, but most have been ok; I don't see a clear pattern. I don't know whether it's the fiber or my settings. I'm trying slightly higher temperatures, higher extrusion rates, and other filament brands to see if those help. Will post back if anything clear shows up...
# Answer
> 2 votes
I know the original user has probably found an answer to their question by now, but I'll add my 2 cents for the benefit of others who come across this.
My experience with Hatchbox has been that the walls and top layers were looking good at 200°C, but when I started stress testing the parts to their fail points I noticed that the internals were just a fibrous mess with no structural integrity.
So I started increasing the temperature in increments of 10°C and found that at 210°C it improved, and at 220°C there was good layer adhesion. At 230°C layer adhesion was absolutely beautiful, but it begins to get a little too melty. I have settled at 220°C for my machine.
Keep in mind that everyone's printers are going to be slightly different - hotends, fan setup, even the thermistor could have varied resistance from one machine to another causing incorrect readouts on temps. That's why you have to tinker and find what works well for you and your machine.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I use a Wahao Duplicator I3 with a heated bed. I have only used the orange Hatchbox PLA with great results. I use 210°C for the extruder and 55°C for the bed. Speed is 40 mm/s which works well for me.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I use 205°C for the extruder and 60°C for the bed on my RoBo3D. I also put hot glue stick on the bed to help adhesion and use a brim if it is a small object.
I would also check the first layer to see if you need to adjust your z offset. Delamination could be a sign the plastic isn't fusing correctly, which could be both an offset or temperature issue. It could also be a feed issue from the roll itself.
You can try printing these, Print Temperature Calibration Piece, and see what temperature gives you the best result.
I have had only one delamination happen to me and I think it had more to do with a hiccup in the commands sent to the printer than the filament itself. I basically have only used Hatchbox filament.
---
Tags: pla, delamination
--- |
thread-6149 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6149 | How long can you leave filament in the extruder | 2018-06-11T18:35:20.300 | # Question
Title: How long can you leave filament in the extruder
Just one quick question about the filament.
Can I leave the filament in the extruder for a prolonged period of time while the printer is off?
# Answer
Most filaments you can leave in the extruder indefinitely without any ill effects.
There are some filaments that need to be stored away from moisture, particularly Nylon, because they absorb moisture from the air and don't print well if they contain a lot of absorbed moisture. However, this isn't an inherent issue with having the filaments in the extruder (if you had some setup that protected the filament from moisture while in the extruder, that would be fine as well - but in most cases it is more practical to store such filament in an airtight box).
Most commodity filaments (ABS/PLA/PETG) don't suffer from this as much (PLA supposedly also absorbs moisture but I haven't noticed this to be a problem, perhaps it depends on the conditions of the room in which your printer is kept) so they're fine to leave in the extruder.
> 6 votes
# Answer
If you "planing" to leave the filament there for months, then it would be a good idea to store it away, but for most filaments it is not a big deal to be stay loaded... provided that the humidity is not high (e.g. a shower or kitchen next to it would be not so good).
My experiences with "moistured" filament is that they get brittle, but only breaks when I don't print something. And it is a pain in the a\** to get out the last part of the filament that broke right at the entrance... so store it away is always a good idea, if you are not too lazy ;)
> 3 votes
---
Tags: filament, storage
--- |
thread-6158 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6158 | What is the best way to dry filament? | 2018-06-12T06:24:38.387 | # Question
Title: What is the best way to dry filament?
I have some nylon that appears to have soaked up some moisture, the prints have the texture of rice bubbles. So I'm wondering what people suggest for drying.
My priorities are:
* cheap
* low energy use
* safe
* effective
I know you can put it in the oven for four hours, but that's going to chew up a lot of electricity.
I have been leaving the spool in front of a fan heater, since the heater is on anyway, it probably only gets to 40°-50°, but since my kids spend all day sitting in front of the heater I can leave it there for an extended amount of time. Anyone have success with this method?
I had considered putting it in my car. I know even on cool days it gets pretty warm in there, but I'm not sure whether that would translate to low humidity.
# Answer
> 6 votes
If we think about drying as a process, then we need to consider some factors:
1. we need to get same humidity level on the spool
2. that will require a good stable temperature and an air rotation (fan)
3. then we need to store spool in a dry area (a bag and silicone sachets will do the work)
As energy consumption by owen could be the case, if we will run it for 4h full steam, then considering that we shall have about 60 degC, will turn down the usage by at least 70%, so we could assume that 2kW heater will be on only 30% of the time (so it will be 2kw\*0.3 = 0.6kW, multiply by 4h -\> we have 2.4kWh, so that is about 50 cents).
**If you consider the price of wasted filament - then adding 50 cents to the drying process is something that is *cheap enough* to save precious nylon.**
---
Tags: filament
--- |
thread-6152 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6152 | Heated Bed not heating on original Prusa i3. Using a Ramps 1.4 EFB | 2018-06-11T21:11:53.317 | # Question
Title: Heated Bed not heating on original Prusa i3. Using a Ramps 1.4 EFB
So as the title said my heated bed stopped heating mid print.
I'm pretty confident the bed itself is not the problem as I've ran continuity tests from the wires and a resistance check (which showed a total resistance of about 1.5 ohms, which is where it should be). I've done voltage checks across the input terminals which showed a successful output of 12 V.
Finally I did a voltage test across the output terminal at D8 where the heated bed should be outputted to. The result came up with nearly 0 V. I then noticed that the LED that usually lights up for D8 was turned off. The weird thing is, I unplugged the wires from D8 and this time the LED lit up like it was supposed to. Due to this, I believe the problem to be with the MOSFET attached to D8.
My proposed solution would be to move the heated bed terminal to D9 instead of D8. I wish to this because despite the firmware set up for a fan, I do not have a fan attached to D9. This leaves this terminal open and with a potentially unharmed MOSFET. Despite this I have found no information on how to go about accomplishing this.
What do you guys think? Is that even a good idea or should the component (or board be replaced)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
# Answer
First you should check if the bed still works when applying 12V directly. You can then also check the voltage over the 12V output terminals to measure the power supply unit while it is powering the bed. It is unclear whether you measured the voltage of the PSU while it was powering a large load.
It is also a good idea to get the external MOSFET board out of the equation (the less components you have, the less you need to troubleshoot).
From the post can be concluded that you are using the so-called RAMPS EFB setup, e.g. in Marlin firmware defined by constant `IS_RAMPS_EFB` in your firmware printer setup (Extruder on pin 10, fan on pin 9 and bed on pin 8).
In the pin configuration file pins\_RAMPS.h you can find the following lines:
```
#define FAN_PIN RAMPS_D9_PIN
#define HEATER_BED_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN
```
To change the pin layout, switch the values of the constants.
> 2 votes
# Answer
you can swap pins in Marlin firmware. When you download it from GitHub, there is a file called pins.h (please be aware that this file is an example), and you can play with your setup to skip the broken mosfet.
**Sometimes, it could be easier and faster to desolder and swap elements directly on the board - that depends on the skill set we have**
> 1 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, heated-bed, ramps-1.4
--- |
thread-6167 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6167 | StoneFlower3D - how to pause a print? | 2018-06-13T09:32:15.183 | # Question
Title: StoneFlower3D - how to pause a print?
I've been trying to make a paste extruder and I came across StoneFlower3D. In their site, they mentioned about a feature called **Infinite Printing**. Please see page number 25 of this document.
They're only using `Step`, `Dir`, `Enable` and `GND` from main controller and there's not a serial connection with the controller.
Anyone have idea about how they're doing it?
# Answer
The extruder is connected to 3d printer mainboard as a `stepper driver`. That said it is not using standard stepper motor output, but it is fed directly from CPU digital pins.
Please see OP reference manual.
The extruder has theability to self-feed (load filament) - so that is the reason of kit/printer switches - see pic 1. Then pausing a print to feed the clay tank need to be executed from printer (pause print) and then operated locally in the `kit` mode.
if get your comments well - pic below gives an overview how to connect it to rams - see manual for details
> 1 votes
---
Tags: extruder, marlin
--- |
thread-6165 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6165 | How to calculate the strength of a printed object? | 2018-06-13T03:14:58.940 | # Question
Title: How to calculate the strength of a printed object?
If I'm working with standard PLA, and I want to print a box that I can stand on without any risk of it breaking, is there any good way to calculate the appropriate print settings?
I know that structural strength comes from the infill. Knowing this, and knowing the dimensions of the box, the weight of my body, the surface area of my shoes, and the material I'm working with, is there any good way to determine the minimum infill percentage I'd want to use in order to safely bear my weight?
# Answer
Strictly speaking, it is difficult to do calculations on these materials, but not impossible (I've heard about a few commercial analysis tools that do that). The FDM process (Fused Deposition Modeling) creates a product based of fused slices of material causing an anisotropic material (this means that the properties of the material are different in different dimensions). Basically, your product will be quite strong and similar in the X and Y directions, but fragile in the Z direction (layering direction). You can imagine that every layer may be a seed for cracks to grow when you're pulling at the part.
When applying a compression load on a product like in your example, the walls need to be strong enough to hold the pressure (not all of the load as, based on the type of infill, the infill also can/should take part of the load!) and need to be of sufficiently high percentage, not only to take part of the load, but also support the walls to prevent buckling. I remember that stress calculations for buckling are difficult and require FEA (Finite Element Analysis) for more complex objects other than bars or beams.
I think it is difficult to determine or calculate the infill percentage based on the compression load beforehand as you do not know the exact material properties and the buckling behavior. You do know that a 100% infill will give you enough strength and support, you could try to print at a lower infill, e.g. 75%, and test if that works for you.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I would suggest doing some calibration runs - granted this'll use up a lot of time and filament. But an infill of even 30 to 40%, plus a reasonably thick set of walls and top/bottom layers, should have almost the same strength as a 100% infill. Look at the girders & beams on road bridges, for example. As Oscar wrote, modelling with FEA tools is unreliable, more so because every extrusion printer is a little different.
Try printing a test box, say only 10 by 10 cm, same height, and see if you can stand on that, before printing the full-size item.
> 1 votes
# Answer
A fast way to do this is by using SolidWorks.
You can draw the box in it and run a simulation test with the max load expected.
Here is a link on how to make dynamic load simulations work in SolidWorks, How to apply dynamic load in solidworks simulation ?
The catch in the process is that SolidWorks takes cubes and most objects as complete solids, i.e. 100% infill in 3D printer terms.
You would have to actually design your infill pattern into the cube so as to get the best and most accurate result.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-strength
--- |
thread-5798 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5798 | Ramps 1.4 with a power brick | 2018-04-11T16:56:42.127 | # Question
Title: Ramps 1.4 with a power brick
I'm currently designing a RepRap 3D printer that will not have a heated bed. I have heard that it is possible to use a power brick with commercial printers lacking heatbeds. Is this possible with a RepRap printer using a RAMPS board?
I'm referring specifically to the TronXY X1 power brick. I was wondering if it we're possible to use the same TronXY X1 power brick with a standard RAMPS 1.4 board - rather than the special board the TronXY X1 uses.
# Answer
> 1 votes
As long as you provide enough energy to heat the nozzle and keep its temperature, that is possible, as steppers power usually is limited by driver to reduce noise.
see the attached video: A fully mobile printer example here
# Answer
> 1 votes
According to this video, Upgrade TronXY X1 Power Supply with PC Power Supply, which actually shows the power brick, the TronXY power brick is 12 V 5 A. The best screenshot of the brick is shown below:
The narrator of the video (as do other sources) states that it runs extremely hot on long print cycles.
An example replacement power supply, on AliExpress, Tronxy 3D printer accessoires power supply 240W AC110/220V DC 12V 20A for 3D print DIY kit part, is rated at 20 A.
So, in theory any 12 V 10-15+ A rated laptop power brick should suffice.
However, that was not your question. As a *standard* RAMPS board also runs at 12 V, then yes, you can use the TronXY power brick with a standard RAMPS board.
Nevertheless, would you want to? It would seem advisable to get a higher rated power brick<sup>1</sup>. That way, you can run the printer harder and longer without the risk of the power supply dying (or worse, catching fire) and if, at a later stage, you want to add a heated bed, then you'll be able to use the same supply brick.
---
<sup>1</sup> I think the biggest laptop 12 V supply I've seen was 15 A on eBay. Earler Xbox 360 bricks go up to 16.5 A. Both of these still get rather warm, due to their (admittedly convenient) black plastic casing. It might be better to get a standard, well ventilated, aluminium cased 20-35 A LED power supply, as in the AliExpress link above.
---
Tags: ramps-1.4, arduino-mega-2650, tronxy-x1
--- |
thread-6177 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6177 | Adhesion problem (heat bed or extruder issue) | 2018-06-14T22:04:54.027 | # Question
Title: Adhesion problem (heat bed or extruder issue)
I am having an issue with the transition from the first layer to the second. It seems that the first layer isn’t staying put on the hot bed and the extruder is dragging it around creating a ball of filament.
* Is this a "height issue" or a "hotbed temperature issue"?
Also I ordered a new glass hotbed top.
* Can I remove the tape that was on the hotbed when it came in the package?
# Answer
> 3 votes
If the first layer is not sticking well to the bed it can be caused by several issues. Usually the height of the first layer plays a significant role as does the flatness of the bed. Temperature can definitely also play a role; you want the temperature to be close or at the glass transition temperature of the plastic filament when it is in a sort of fluid state.
Personally I hated the original tape that came with the bed or blue tape I bought separately. Also the surface finish is nowhere close to printing directly onto the Aluminium bed or on a glass plate. For adhesion, a PVA based spray (e.g. hairspray, or more expensive special print spray like 3DLAC or even a glue stick), should be used as it becomes very sticky at elevated temperatures.
The tape can be removed, but should be replaced with something that grips onto the filament, see previous paragraph. I removed the tape after day one I got build my kit and started printing directly onto the Aluminium bed using the sticky spray.
To answer your questions, the following checklist determines the order in which you should solve your issue:
1. First check the nozzle position relative to the bed; this should ideally be the thickness of a single plain A4 paper.
2. Make sure the bed is level; what is meant that the bed is relatively level with respect to the nozzle, not water bubble level with respect to the Earth (you'd be amazed to find how many people do that).
3. Use the correct bed temperature; it is usually found on the tag of the spool of filament. Alternatively, look it up on the internet, or increase it at first with about 5 degrees Celsius at a time.
4. You could over-extrude a little for the first layer by increasing the extrusion multiplier for the first layer, or add some extra temperature to the extruder (increase with 5 degrees Celsius).
5. Printing brims or adding mouse ears or discs integrated in your design may also work to create more grip.
And yes you should remove the masking tape before you put the glass on as it would only act as an insulator.
---
Tags: extruder, heated-bed, bed-leveling, layer-height, masking-tape
--- |
thread-6179 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6179 | Steps per mm of extruder are incorrect after rebuilding | 2018-06-15T00:11:13.393 | # Question
Title: Steps per mm of extruder are incorrect after rebuilding
I have got a problem that after upgrading my printer to an aluminum frame my extruder went from around 400 steps per mm at 16 micro steps (which did match the manufacturer's recommendation perfectly) to a bit over 1000 steps per mm at 16 micro steps.
This is a problem for me, since the limited amount of steps per second lower my maximum retraction speed.
What I tried since the rebuild:
1. Replace and adjust the current of the stepper driver - no change, even with another type of driver on different micro steps, of course with other values, but also about 2.5 times too high;
2. Connecting another motor with another cable - the other motor with nothing attached to it drove the same angle as my extruder stepper.
Could it be that the ATmega2560 on my MKS gen 1.4 board got damaged? Or did I change something in the firmware, which does have this effect?
I am using Marlin 1.8.5 and a E3D Titan 1:3 geared extruder and I am using the same setup as before! E3D claims to have 437 steps per mm on a 200 steps/revolution Nema 17 stepper and 16 micro steps. This value was working perfectly fine before.
### Update:
With an Arduino Nano I measured the amount of steps my board sends at 418.5 steps/mm (programmed in EEPROM and in firmware) on a specific amount of extrusion length
```
G92 E0 -> G1 F100 E30
```
and I got
```
5220 steps for 30mm extrusion (reproducible).
```
It should be
```
418.5 steps/mm*30mm = 12555 steps.
```
Where,
```
(12555/5220) * 418.5 steps/mm = 1007 steps/mm
```
to have the effect of 418.5 steps/mm
...which is, oddly, the exact number that I got by marking filament, extruding, measuring and calculating.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Ok, thanks everyone for at least taking time to read or thinking about this.
The Problem is an absolute mess and there are two possible reasons:
-\> the octoprint eeprom editor is broken
-\> the ATMega2560's eeprom is broken. as far as i know companies buy used atmegas to cheapen the price and the \>100k writes on my chip has been reached
I will try to figure out the exact problem, if i find time in the next days. My current setup is just deactivate eeprom and i'm good to go. Even wiping eeprom with a small arduino sketch will get the error to return.
Now i will be able to sleep again :D
# Answer
> 1 votes
After a rebuild, and certainly after changing to another extruder (e.g. replacing it by a geared extruder like you supposedly did as taken from the comments above before the edit, which now clearly is not the case) or setup e.g. other stepper drivers, you should always calibrate the extruder.
To calibrate you e.g. disconnect the hot end nozzle and command to extrude 100 mm. Be sure to make marks and measure the extruded distance. Divide the latter value by 100 to divide this result by the steps per mm value in the configuration file. So, if you measured 102 mm and commanded 100 for 400 steps, the new would be 400/(102/100) = 392. There is a lot to find on this matter on the internet. All can be done with G-codes that can be entered through a terminal connected over the USB port. E.g. applications as Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc. all have a terminal interface to the printer if connected over USB.
You could find more detailed instructions e.g. here, or this video.
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Tags: ramps-1.4, stepper-driver, extruder-driver
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thread-5724 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5724 | Anet A8 - X and Y axis not square - how to fix? | 2018-03-29T14:10:50.857 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 - X and Y axis not square - how to fix?
I have an Anet A8 printer for about 4 months, set up pretty well (or so I thought) and printing a number of models pretty well. I made a large 3" x 6" box with a sliding lid yesterday and when it was done there was a gap on one side when the lid was slid on. I checked the parts and it turns out they are not square - which means the X and Y axes are not square to each other.
I'm wondering how to adjust this - I'm thinking that extending the distance between the back of the frame and the front by adjusting the threaded rods that separate them to a wider distance on the side where the angle is obtuse. Obviously one of the first things I'll check is that the distance between the front and back is the same (I can't imagine why I never checked that before, come to think of it).
Does this sound like a sound plan?
# Answer
> 4 votes
To correct x-y axis alignment to 90 degrees: Loosen the nuts on the two threaded rods at one end and in the middle. Lower the Z-axis to its lowest level. Place a square block of wood or metal so that it rests on the table and is snug against the X-axis rods. Slide the table so that either its rear or front edge is under the edge of the block. There you can clearly see any misalignment by comparing the edge of the block and the edge of the table. Now the 'fun' part: rack the entire assembly, pulling the diagonal corners to square the table and block. You may have to tape the assembly down to keep it in place while you spin the threaded rod nuts back into place....gently,then carefully snug the nuts while watching the table and block to insure they stay put!
# Answer
> 4 votes
I recently went to the same issue on my CoreXY printer (culprit was uneven belt tension in the 2 belts), but you have a Prusa style printer like my first Anet A8 printer.
If you just found out (because you are printing large models now) but always had this issue it could be frame related. You should check your printer and try to fix the geometry that is causing this. If this is impossible you could fix this by changing the firmware (see below). If large prints used to be accurate, but are now skewed, you could be facing stretched belts. Replacing them will fix the issue.
Skewness compensation in Marlin: When X-Y are skew (or any other plane like X-Z or Y-Z) you can fix that through the firmware software in Marlin Firmware. Please go into the Configuration.h file and look at the instructions; please search for "Bed Skew Compensation".
Basically you are required to print a giant square and measure the diagonals, these should be the same, but apparently are not in your case.
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Tags: calibration, anet-a8, y-axis
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thread-6187 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6187 | Enclosure Ventilation | 2018-06-17T11:49:21.653 | # Question
Title: Enclosure Ventilation
I am building an enclosure for my 3D printer (Anycubic i3 Mega) and I'm wondering about heat and ventilation for my machine. My enclosure is is build from five 50x50x50 cm Plexiglass frames glued together. Currently I'm using only PLA for printing.
* Does my enclosure need ventilation so my 3D printer would not overheat?
* If yes, what type of ventilation?
+ Is only drilling holes enough? or
+ Do I need to add some ventilator?
* If I would print with ABS in the future would it change the answer?
# Answer
> 2 votes
When printing PLA you do not require an enclosure! PLA does not shrink as much as e.g. ABS. When printing PLA you should definitely ventilate your casing. I guess your steppers are also located in the enclosure, so you should be careful of not overheating the enclosure. Not only the steppers, but also think of the cold end cooling, too much heat in the enclosure means that the cold end cannot cool enough to prevent the filament to melt prematurely; this can lead to clogs. Also note that the printer electronics board may become too hot too (too hot stepper drivers will cause steppers to miss steps).
> *I once tried a towel over a Ultimaker 3 Extended to print a difficult filament to keep some heat in the enclosure; I encountered the above problems when I was young(er) and inexperienced :) We learn by trial and error some times!*
However, ABS, requires control over the temperature during printing. Draft or uneven temperatures may lead to problems related to layer separation or heat bed separation. Many of the high-end box printers have doors available to enclose the front, this results in an enclosure with an open top (sometimes even for the top there are covers available). The heat of the bed then heats up the enclosure. A constant temperature of 45°C should not be too high to cause problems. When boxing it up completely, you could use a temperature sensor to monitor the enclosure temperature and schedule a fan to ventilate when it gets too hot.
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Tags: pla, abs, ventilation, enclosure
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thread-4846 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4846 | Self-lubricating 3D printable materials for space | 2017-10-30T17:18:29.497 | # Question
Title: Self-lubricating 3D printable materials for space
Materials used in space need to not outgas significantly
An answer to this question: Would 3d-printed objects outgas in vacuum?
referred to the NASA outgassing database which showed that ABS, PET, and PLA filaments are all fairly low outgassing and suitable for space application.
What I'm wondering is whether there are any 3D-printable plastics that are both suitable for space and also self-lubricating. Nylon is the obvious printable self-lubricating material, but I believe that it outgasses too much (I don't think NASA has tested nylon filament, at least I can't find it in the database).
My primary interest is in hobbyist-grade, FDM printers but if there are materials that can be commercially 3D printed, that is also of interest.
Any ideas?
# Answer
Well, I think this depends on your machine. If you can support extrusion temps north of 350C and bed temps ~150C, you could try PEI:
https://www.3dxtech.com/ultem-9085-3d-printing-filament/
I believe PEI has self-lubricating properties, and has outgassing of ~0.40% TML (PET is ~0.43%). Of course, most off-the-shelf printers don't handle that sort of temp range. But then, industrial grade materials are likely to require industrial grade machines. :)
You could compare other DBs to NASA's as well.
Outgassing DB: http://esmat.esa.int/materialframe.html
By the way, Nylon has an outgassing aspect \>2.0% TML, which is definitely on the high side for vacuum applications.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I would suggest material from IGUS . https://www.igus.com/wpck/17736/3Dprinting
They have a range of materials that are astonishingly easy to print with on desktop 3D printers also they are probably the world leaders in high load, self lubricating polymer bearings .
I despise printing with PEI (Any type of ULTEM) and PEEK filaments as the upgrades required are a pain to install and keep running for any serious 3D printing related activity .
> 1 votes
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Tags: filament, filament-choice
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thread-6186 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6186 | Zortrax M200 skipping extruder | 2018-06-17T09:21:19.503 | # Question
Title: Zortrax M200 skipping extruder
My Zortrax M200 has a skipping extruder motor, I’ve checked the seating of all connections and 3 different (electronic ribbon) cables and still can’t fix the issue. The gear is clean and have tried fresh filament.
* Does anyone have any possible thoughts on why this happens?
The extruded motor will move in the desired direction and then skip back.
Loading the filament is fine. Tried new nozzles, blockages checked, etc.
# Answer
Every time I've had an extruder "skip", it was actually because some condition was causing excessive back-pressure. Either the hot end isn't hot enough, the nozzle is too close to the bed, or something has clogged the nozzle.
If there is a "skipping" noise, then this is almost certainly the problem. When a stepper can not advance, the magnetic field will continue to "step". After the rotor is behind the steps by 180 degrees of field phase (which might be only a fraction of a degree os stepper motor shaft rotation), the rotor will snap back to re-align with the magnetic field. The sudden movement of the rotor and the release of compression on the filament often makes a loud clicking or thumping noise. If you can see the gear, it will jump backward and then rotate slowly forward before jumping backward again.
To see if it is the drivers, try extruding with no filament, or if you can, try moving filament through the extruder. If it doesn't move at all, or doesn't move under light drag, it may be the driver, the wiring, or perhaps the motor.
> 1 votes
# Answer
1. Check the pins on the motor. Are they bent? If yes - straighten them out with a screw driver.
2. This could be a stepper driver problem. If it is then bad luck. Zortrax hard solders their stepper drivers onto their control board (this sucks and is a pure monetization related move by them).
This results in you having to get a whole new set of connector cables and or new control boards every time something goes wrong.
Ask for a control board replacement with new connector cables, if your machine is still under warranty it should be free of charge.
Switch to different or cheaper machines like Wanhaos or Ultimakers if you want the same ease of use and cheap part replacement.
> 0 votes
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Tags: extruder, print-quality
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thread-6163 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6163 | Multipart 3mf file, need to extract one of those parts for printing. | 2018-06-12T16:12:29.663 | # Question
Title: Multipart 3mf file, need to extract one of those parts for printing.
I have a 3mf file that has 24 parts in it. I want to extract one of those parts for printing. I have Solid Works, Magics, and NetFabb.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If your 3D file has separate objects and vertices and are just merged together then do the following:
1. Import into Magics;
2. Select part (in the part list menu).
3. Right click (in the part list menu) and select Shell to parts;
4. (Be very careful here) Select the area you want to isolate with the translate tool. If you don't know how to do this just left click hold and drag the mouse to select an area inside a box;
5. Use translate tool to move it a little ahead from the original grouped object (just drag on any axis);
6. Right click (in the part list menu) and select merge part.
Should work out fine. Tell me if you get stuck.
This can also be done on Netfabb. Not on SolidWorks.
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Tags: materialise-magics
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thread-4350 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4350 | SkyNet3D firmware home settings | 2017-07-09T00:39:09.840 | # Question
Title: SkyNet3D firmware home settings
I recently installed SkyNet3D V1.1 on my Anet A8 printer. When I prepare the printer and select "auto home" it moves the head close to the upper right hand side of the bed. How do I change these settings so the printer auto homes to the center of the bed? Any help is appreciated.
# Answer
> 1 votes
*Please note that Skynet3D is **OBSOLETE**, this was a fork from Marlin Firmware that was created to support the "odd" displays (due to alternative pin layout) Anet use on their printers and has been completely integrated in Marlin.*
---
Note that homing is used to hit the end stops to determine the positioning of the head. There is no such thing as homing in the center of the bed (apart from the Z-axis). How would the head know where it is just after switching the printer on?
When using the constant:
```
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
```
the printer is instructed to move the head to (in this case to the middle of the bed):
```
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_BED_SIZE / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28).
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_BED_SIZE / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28).
```
after sending the `G28` homing command.
Basically it wil home X and Y, then move to the instructed position (in the example the middle of the bed) and then home Z.
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8, firmware, skynet3d
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thread-6201 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6201 | Not able to insert hobbed drive and filament in the extruder drive | 2018-06-19T11:53:31.143 | # Question
Title: Not able to insert hobbed drive and filament in the extruder drive
I am building a **AlfaMendel 3D printer** *(**edited** : The original question named it to be Prusa Mendel I2)*. I printed the extruder drive **using PLA material** from the STL available in the package but I'm not able to insert the hobbed drive as well as the filament in it. The dimensions of hobbed drive is correct.
Is the problem related to shrinking of print material while printing the extruder drive or something else.
I have included few pics of the extruder drive and hobbed drive.
This image shows the maximum possible insertion of hobbed drive in the extruder drive.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Your parts are not in the Prusa Mendel i2 as found here or here.
Also note, quote:
> Parts included in Github repository have the wrong dimensions for the nut traps! Download the correct version from \[Thingiverse Greg's Hinged Accesible Extruder\]
Are you sure you have the correct parts for the original Prusa Mendel i2? Maybe you have a different version? The original extruder mount uses an M8 hobbed bolt, not an MK8 hobbed extruder gear. The first is 8 mm in diameter, the latter is 9 mm in diameter.
---
**Edit:** After you updated your post to hint to the correct printer, it appears that my answer still holds. You did use the incorrect extruder gear. The 9 mm gear doesn't fit in the extruder part as it requires an 8 mm diameter extruder gear.
It might be difficult to find a 8 mm hobbed gear with a 3 mm shaft diameter, they are usually 5 mm (as in the stepper shaft diameter) or 8 mm (as in the diameter of 8 mm bolts that are frequently used for extruder setups). You could redesign the part (load STL in a 3D CAD program and make the changes). By the way, PLA should not shrink so much. As can be seen in the photo's, it looks like your current printer does not print very accurately, that may also contribute.
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Tags: prusa-i3, reprap
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thread-5027 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5027 | I am looking for the aluminum profile parts specs for this prusa i3 printer? | 2017-11-25T16:08:32.823 | # Question
Title: I am looking for the aluminum profile parts specs for this prusa i3 printer?
I have seen some photos of aluminum based Prusa i3 printers, and I like to know the numbers and the specs of the profiles? Also I want to know Is the first pic strong enough for reliable printer or I must use the second(respect to profiles I mean).
# Answer
They are 2020 (20mm x 20mm) T-slot extrusions. They should not be confused with V-slot extrusions, which are similar to T-slot, but have a 45-degree slot profile to accommodate V-slot wheels.
If you are contemplating a new build, I would recommend using V-slot. Note that T-slot and V-slot come in a number of sizes (in multiples of 20mm). A 2040 profile is 20mm x 40mm, and will have two slots on the wider sides. Other sizes are available, such as 2060, 2080, 4040, and even C-shaped profiles.
You may want to use 2040 profiles for greater rigidity, especially if you are contemplating a large build volume.
Note that there are imperial as well as metric T-slot profiles. RepRap uses metric profiles.
ReRap Wiki: T-slot
OpenBuilds: V-slot
> 4 votes
# Answer
The specs for 2020 aluminum profile is here. https://8020.net/20-2020-black-fb.html This site even has the cad profile files for download.
I have noticed that some people have suggested using V-Slot from open builds... however, V-Slot has a V for the V groove wheels which this design is not using so in my opinion there is absolutely no reason to pay a lot more for V-Slot when your not even using V groove wheels.
I have also noticed that some people have suggested using 2040 T-Slot and the link above has a search and you can find the profile for 2040 T-Slot. I agree that T-Slot could be better; however, I would build first with 2020 T-Slot to see for yourself and then report your findings after upgrading to 2040 T-Slot. My guess is that you will find that 2020 T-Slot is enough if you use the recommend corner brackets... if your planning on using 3D printed corner brackets... then it might be necessary to use 2040 T-Slot.
> 3 votes
# Answer
It can really depend on where you are in the world. A few years ago, I was unable to obtain standard V-slot (& T-nut) 2020 extrusion, at a reasonable price, and so I ended up using an extrusion from a local supplier instead, and managed to obtain 6 m of extrusion for only $15!
My aluminium extrusion has this profile, which has V-Slot style grooves.
Also, it uses simple, and *cheap*, M5 nuts, rather than T-nuts, which are much more expensive (comparatively)
Please see Will standard M5 T-slot nuts fit these different 2020 aluminium extrusions?, for more information.
You can also use 1515, depending on the size of the printer... if you have a larger printer design then you can always double up and use two adjacent lengths of 1515 to effectively have 3015 (or 2040 - if using two pieces of 2020). Basically use whatever is available and cheap, it isn't necessary to pay a lot of money, just to have the perfect extrusion profile. Remember that you are designing/building the printer yourself, so you will have some leeway. Other sizes that may be available to use are 2525, 2040, 3030, 3060, etc..
However, if you are using 3D printed parts for the frame (such as the end or corner pieces), then you may be restricted in what type of extrusion that you can use, by the printed parts themselves and what type of extrusion they will fit. However, if you are only using aluminium parts for the frame (including aluminium corner brackets/braces) then you *should be* OK.
> 1 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3
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thread-6206 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6206 | Geeetech GT2560: Electronic safety and power source | 2018-06-20T18:27:14.750 | # Question
Title: Geeetech GT2560: Electronic safety and power source
I'm about to build myself a 3D-printer.
After a long search for a brain for this one I came across the GT2560 from Geeetech, because it leaves a solid impression on me. The manufacturer himself has a quite extensive wiki page for this board.
My idea now was to use an ATX power supply.
The PSU is a *be quiet! BN257*. On 12 V (combined) it can deliver 324 W. On 12V1 there is 20 A, on 12V2 16 A.
Would that be enough or would you rather use a 24 V power supply?
Since I have read some reports about the Anet A8 and its danger of overloading, I am a bit uncertain, even if the GT2560 looks a lot better than the A8.
Are the connections to which the heating bed and the extruder are connected sufficiently large to withstand 10 A and 15 A respectively, or should I solder the cables directly to the board from the very first?
According to the information I received from Dr. Search Engine, MOSFETs of type STB55NF06 are used. According to the data sheet, these can withstand loads up to 60 V/55 A. I don't necessarily need to replace them with external ones, do I?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Whether 350 Watt is enough depends on the amount of Ampere can be generated over the 12 V lines. Computer power supplies add up the power of all the voltages! A nameless or cheap 350 Watt PSU may not deliver enough power (in the sense that they may never reach the given power), you should check that out. The high-end PSU's are usually well fabricated and can usually deliver more power (but should not be taken for granted!).
* a typical (214x214 mm) heatbed is about 12 V/1.5 Ω = 8 Amperes (about 100 Watt),
* a typical hotend is about 40 Watt,
* steppers and board could draw another 5 Amperes (about 60 Watt)
This totals to about 200 Watt, which your PSU should be able to generate without a problem.
Those green connectors plug in and out of the board don't they, usually with those small pins, transporting up to 10 Amperes is not recommended, you should look up the ratings of those connectors.
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Tags: printer-building, electronics
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thread-6208 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6208 | DQ542MA Driver proper settings for NEMA 17 Stepper Motor | 2018-06-21T06:21:39.647 | # Question
Title: DQ542MA Driver proper settings for NEMA 17 Stepper Motor
Using a 24 V power supply I have two NEMA 17 stepper motors each driven by a DQ542MA stepper motor driver. I have the current settings on the driver set for a RMS of 1.69 and a pulse/rev of 400. When I run the motors they run extremely well but become extremely hot. I need help to figure out what would be the proper settings to use in order to stop the overheating.
Attached is a photo of the motor's setting tables:
# Answer
> 2 votes
It is completely normal for a stepper motor to get hot. Taking this datasheet for example, specifies a 80 °C temperature *rise*. That is, in an room that is 25 °C ambient temperature, the motors would get up to 105 °C.
To prevent the motors from getting as hot you could further reduce the operating current, but likely the temperature they're running at is normal.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, electronics, stepper, motor, stepper-driver
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thread-5674 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5674 | Transparent Plastic | 2018-03-23T01:26:52.520 | # Question
Title: Transparent Plastic
Is there any commonly printed plastic which I can buy that might be transparent to UV light?
I wish to print a mould, then pour in my plastic which requires a UV light to activate the curing process.
# Answer
Have you tried printing with Form labs clear resin ?
( This is assuming you have access to a desktop SLA like the Form2+ or Form 1 )
The printed part itself gets hardened after exposure to uv light and actually can increase the life time of your mould .
I have been using the Form labs Form 2+ a lot recently for small moulds and casting them with Polyurethane . They work amazing and the precision of the mould is high due to 0.05mm layer resolution that is achievable .
Once hardened the UV light easily passes through it and does not degrade the part at all .
Here is the material data sheet https://formlabs.com/media/upload/Clear-DataSheet.pdf
You can easily get a clear resin print done through a local 3D printing service bureau that you can find using 3D hubs .
Prices for printing on a formlabs are comparable to FDM 3D printing , it really just depends on your supplier .
**If the above doesn't cut it then ,**
Use DSM Somos® WaterClear Ultra 10122 , please check below link and corresponding data sheet for technical specifications .
https://www.dsm.com/products/somos/en\_US/products/offerings-somos-water-clear.html
This can only be printed on a 3Ds systems viper , Envision tech preform series or other industrial 3D printers .
Again you can head to 3D hubs or call up the closest industrial 3D printing service bureau and ask them for the above material . They should be able to hook you up easily .
> 5 votes
# Answer
It is easy enough to test materials. First, get a UV flashlight or laser, and find some object that the UV light will make glow. White paper or white cloth will probably work. Next, for a material you wish to test, print a "transparent" wall as think as you need. Shine the light through the transparent wall. If the wall glows, it is interacting so heavily with the UV light that it probably won't transmit UV light. The light will probably be scattered, since "transparent" material is rarely glasslike when printed. If the test object you found in the first step still glows, the wall is transparent enough. If it doesn't, try the next material.
There are transparent forms of PLA, ABS, PETG, HIPS, and nylon. Probably other materials, too. Try them.
> 1 votes
# Answer
This is more of a Chemistry question, but seeing as we love 3D printing with exotics, here are a few.
Topas olefin copolymer
From the mfr description page,
> TOPAS cyclic olefin copolymer, or COC, is an incredibly pure polymer - in fact, it's purer than most grades of medical glass. Unlike glass, it has a non-ionic, inert surface to minimize reactivity, denaturation, agglomeration, delamination and other traditional glass concerns. And when it comes to maintaining purity, TOPAS medical grade plastics can be sterilized via all common methods. Leachables and extractables are extremely low. Reduce risk and increase performance by maintaining the benign, protective environment that TOPAS COC-based devices provide.
>
> Medical grades of TOPAS COC are extremely clear, and are optically suitable for replacing glass in many applications.
I'm not sure of its melting point, or of the speed of solidification (which affects extruder rate, motion etc).
Recommended at this Chem.SE question, PMMA and others
## edit
Because answers there have links of their own, I"m not repeating the various technical leads available there.
Now you will have to investigate their melting points and flow rates, etc. to see if these can be coerced to function in an extrusion printer.
> -2 votes
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Tags: print-material
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thread-6214 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6214 | Laser Engraver with Smoothie, RAMPS 1.4 or AWC708C? | 2018-06-23T14:41:38.567 | # Question
Title: Laser Engraver with Smoothie, RAMPS 1.4 or AWC708C?
I have an old laser engraver that runs from Windows 98SE and DOS-6. Yup, still works fine but a pain as I regularly have to open it up and unplug and re-seat all the ribbon connectors. Fifteen of them and I tire of that fast.
I am thinking of pulling out all the electronics and installing a TB6600 stepper drivers and Arduino to run G-code. My order of desire is based on price, RAMPS, Smoothie and the AWC708C. I'd actually like to stay away from the AWC as it is closed source and I would be stuck with whatever it has.
With the existing NEMA 17 steppers I can get rapids to 400 mm/s. Will a RAMPS system drive this fast enough? It doesn't have to be that fast, but close to and certainly not below about 200 mm/sec.
I have been searching but cannot find any actual figures achieved. If not then I guess my second option is the smoothie.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Marlin supports a stepping frequency of up to 40kHz. For a pretty typical setup with 100 steps/mm, this translates to 400 mm/s - obviously, if you use higher microstepping settings or use finer pitched belts you will get a lower maximum speed.
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Tags: g-code, ramps-1.4, laser
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thread-6217 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6217 | Linking the 3D printing path coordinates to CAD for modelling | 2018-06-24T11:40:27.047 | # Question
Title: Linking the 3D printing path coordinates to CAD for modelling
I was reading this research paper titled *Sub-modeling Finite Element Analysis of 3D Printed Structures*. In this, firstly, the author is trying to create a sketch for Engineering analysis using the 3D printing path coordinates and integrating it to a CAD software like Autodesk Inventor.
It says,
> By analyzing the corresponding G-code for the desired structure, important information can be extracted, such as the coordinated of the 3D printing path, key points, paths of printing and non-printing paths.
>
> ...
>
> *The coordinate of the 3D printing path can then be imported into CAD software to obtain the corresponding sketch and consequently a solid body for each layer. Most of commercial CAD software packages are capable of this task. For this Purpose we have chosen Autodesk Inventor.*
Paper is attached here: Research Paper in subject
Can anyone help me out with how this can be done?
# Answer
The wording in the paper is quite verbose and somewhat unclear. All it says is they read the G-code file and *somehow* turn it into a 3D model.
A g-code file is just a list of linear moves. Here is an example snippet I took from a random file (keep in mind a typical file would consist of thousands of such lines):
```
G1 X140.621 Y114.840 E0.0065
G1 X140.804 Y114.765 E0.0129
G1 X141.016 Y114.737 E0.0199
G1 X158.984 Y114.737 E0.6070
G1 X159.196 Y114.765 E0.6140
```
Each move is relative to the previous, so the second line of the code (for example) tells the printer to move to X=140.804 and Y=114.765 from the previous position (X=140.621, Y=114.840) while extruding an amount of material equal to 0.0129-0.0065=0.0064 mm of filament.
It appears that the authors have developed a toolchain to turn a G-code file into a 3D model, translating every extrusion segment into a part of a solid body (from the pictures, it appears that for a given move segment, they create an ellipsoidal extrusion and merge all of these together into a single solid body) - see Figure 9 in the paper.
> 4 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, g-code, fdm
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thread-6223 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6223 | Why does slic3r get an error "302 moved temporarily" when uploading to OctoPrint? | 2018-06-24T23:48:25.937 | # Question
Title: Why does slic3r get an error "302 moved temporarily" when uploading to OctoPrint?
I have configured slic3r's OctoPrint Upload section with the with hostname ("octopi") and port (80) of my OctoPrint server. The Test button indicates a successful connection.
But when I use "Send to Printer" I get an HTTP error 302.
How can I fix this?
# Answer
Specific answer: use "octopi.local" rather than "octopi", since that will properly resolve to the correct Octopi IP Address.
---
More generally, investigating the network traffic on my network (AT&T Fiber Home) revealed these facts regarding the octopi server:
* With a browser, the octopi can be accessed via either "octopi:80" or "octopi.local:80".
* However, "octopi" actually talks to the network router, which sends a "302" message with the target name "octopi.local".
* So, for the browser it seems either name is correct, but in actuality only "octopi.local" is the correct network name for the octopi system.
And these facts regarding the slic3r configuration:
* slic3r does not process "302" messages, instead treating them as errors. This is OK, since a properly configured network won't be generating these.
* the slic3r connection test is incomplete. It reports success because it receives an HTTP response, even though the response is a 302 rather than the version information that it is requesting.
So in this particular case, entering "octopi.local" instead of "octopi" corrected the error. If you receive a 302 error, you will need to research and verify the exact IP address or host name for the target Octopi system.
A future version of slic3r should probably report an error on the "test" button if it doesn't (a) get a proper 200 return code and (b) return the proper version information as slic3r is requesting.
> 3 votes
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Tags: slic3r, octoprint
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thread-4460 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4460 | Is it possible to print a resonator for a musical instrument? | 2017-08-04T14:34:58.773 | # Question
Title: Is it possible to print a resonator for a musical instrument?
I play a berimbau for Capoeira. One of the most fragile (and most expensive) bits is the *cabaça*, a hollow gourd used as a resonator.
I'm not very familiar with the qualities of the resin used for 3d printing. If I were to take this to our local Maker Lab and have them scan and print a copy, how likely is it that it would work? My fear is that the plastic would be too sound deadening.
If you want a less exotic parallel, imagine the body of a guitar. That's a resonating chamber.
# Answer
I can't answer this from a technical 3D printing angle. But, from a musical angle:
Where the body of an instrument has the primary function of enclosing a vibrating air column, the material has often been demonstrated to perhaps make a difference, but only a subtle one. As an example, a recent range of plastic trombones, although not first-class instruments, have proved extremely playable (and have the great advantage of being virtually indestructable).
I suggest you try this. Play your instrument, dampening vibration of the cabaça with your hand or with a piece of cloth. Just damp the shell externally. Don't obstruct the hole or put anything inside. Now, fill the cabaça with cotton wool or similar. If the first makes little difference, you're probably good to go with a plastic cabaça. Of course, if the second makes little difference either, we might have to suspect that the cabaça is mainly decorative!
You could also experiment with alternative resonators of a similar size and capacity, available 'off the shelf', not worrying too much about a cosmetic match. They might sound even better!
> 9 votes
# Answer
Following up on this, the answer is, yes, this works quite well. I printed this *cabaça* model from Thingiverse using PLA on a Lulzbot Mini and put it on my *berimbau* today to test it out. I can't make a direct comparison because the printed resonator is smaller than the gourd one that I own, but the sound is good. I am not certain whether it is actually cheaper (it used a fair amount of PLA because it's probably about a half-inch thick, and it took a few tries to get a good print due to it taking about 9 hours and needing to be monitored for the filament breaking), but it may be more accessible for people who can't ship a gourd in from Brazil. It is definitely more durable.
(click to enlarge)
(click to enlarge)
> 8 votes
# Answer
**Here is a great answer to the underlying physics of resonance:**
"A object rings because it has acquired energy in a way that it resonates - it vibrates at a frequency and with enough energy to generate sound waves. As long as the object has sufficient energy, it will continue to ring. It cannot ring forever as the sound waves gradually reduce the amount of energy that the object has. But generating sound waves not the only way that an object can lose energy, One of the ways that plastics differ from metals is that plastics are better able than metals to dissipate energy internally. Any plastic object will show some amount of viscosity dampening since all polymeric materials have a non-zero loss modulus curve. Metals can also have internal dissipation mechanisms, but they are far less prevalent than in plastics."
So, we all know it, you can make plastic musical toys. They never resonate as well as metal, glass, or wood; but, they often can work. Here is an example of a Trumpet made out of **ABS!**
This plastic's magazine also makes it's pitch for using plastics in musical instruments (most of which is also **ABS**).
That said, if Young's Modulus is the key (as the first comment said), **PLA** should be even better as its' Young's Modulus is a bit larger than ABS.
All that said, all the plastic bells I have seen are generally pretty quiet. Plastic has a habit of absorbing energy and thus not being a very good resonator. If you want to try, I think you are going to have to find a way to harden the plastic. Maybe Acetone treated PLA as that seems to harden it. Maybe try something simple like printing a plastic bell. If you can get that to ring, you are well on your well.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I'll take a stab here, but my gut instinct is to say that a printed part will not sound the same as your original gourd resonator.
I believe the acoustics rely on the hardness, shape, and size of the material. In which case, a gourd is a hard and often thin material (after gutting it). Typical 3D printing materials will have a minimum thickness which may get in the way of achieving the same shape of the gourd resonator and plastics are typically going to be softer in hardness than your gourd.
So, in short, I think if your try to replicate the resonator with 3D printing it will not sound the same. That may not be a bad thing, depending on what you're looking for.
Also, who's to say the resonator has to be shaped like that? 3D printers allow us to manufacture parts that have historically been impossible to make and many instruments that we use today were designed hundreds of years ago with far less advanced tools available. I say its worth trying a replica of the gourd and then exploring other shapes to print that may affect the tonality of your instrument.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Of course. I've printed a 7 octave organ rank, so it's certainly possible. Organ pipes are quite special in that the material properties of the pipe play a secondary role in the tone, the primary role being played by the length and cross-section of the pipe, the elements surrounding the mouth of the pipe, and its other openings (end opening, and extra openings that sometimes are used to modify the overtones). It's also well understood how the pipe material properties affect the sound, so it's possible to design the printed pipe to mimic properties of either a wooden or a metal pipe, and anything in between.
Depending on how big of a role the resonator's stiffness plays in the sound of the instrument, you might need to replicate some of mechanical properties of the Gourd shell - e.g. its stiffness - in the printed shape. Thus the inside of the print will have the shape of the inside of a Gourd, but the exterior may need to be much farther away, and then the infill percentage will play an important role, as well as the infill shape.
The shape of the interior of the gourd can be approximated by measuring some dimensions and sculpting an interior surface in a 3D modeler or CAD. Most likely a 3D scan is not necessary, unless you can get it done cheaply and with no fuss.
You will also need to print full-size instruments. So this will not be cheap in terms of material used and printer time. I would benchmark the printed instrument at 3 shell thicknesses: 0.5, 1.0 and 1.5 inches, and 3 infill percentages: 20%, 35%, 50%. All with 3 perimeter layers, and cubic infill. The thick 1.5in shell with high infill will be the stiffest of them all.
> 3 votes
# Answer
If an instrument sounds "right" has as much to do with how it is shaped as with how the material it is made of is layered - or not - as this changes it resonance. Let's take a few examples:
Metal, cast resins & hard woods all are very dense and contain (little to) no hollow spaces to dampen their resonances. This makes them the classic choice for making instruments, as just the shape changes the tune now.
Balsa wood is very very light and brittle, and it is very grainy, creating some hollowness inside the wood that should resonate, changing its resonance a lot.
I don't exactly know how the gourd is in its composition, but for percussion perposes, 3D prints are more on hollow side than on the hard wood side for low infill. Very dense (35%+) prints can have similar properties to solid resin casts, but this depends on the type of filament and printer used.
### Let's look for a compromise!
From my own experience with musical instruments, there is a vougue of carbon fiber reinforced resin instruments in classics. In broad strokes, these were manucaftuered by casting resin over carbonfiber mats pressed in to a mold and then sanded and polished. In other terms, 3D printing of carbon fiber filament is around in the FDM scene, even if it highly abrasive and demands a nozzle like the ruby to print.
With the right interior design (that is, an almost hollow print that just contains struts that don't seperate cavities inside the print), a carbonfiber print could possibly be filled with resin and become a 3D-printed composite, granting a much closer sound to the gourd while providing extreme durability.
However, such a design will take many hours of work before the first print can start. Atop that printing carbon fiber is a specialty thing not many print shops can do or do regularily. And finally, the postprocessing of filling the "gourd shell" with resin is a very delicate process, followed by coating inner and outer layer and then tuning... I estimate such a thing to be at least as pricy as several real gourds.
### Addendum
After some months and this question popping back up, I realised some more things that might be used in the design of this:
* **Thin shell, armored up.** Think about this the following: Print a 2 or 3 shell thichk wall, that will be the most inner. Then reinforce it with resin and carbonfiber mats until the sound is right. This would allow to tune the gourd to some degree.
* **Solid print, slidified.** You might take your model and print it solidly, yet in the design you could include tree like hollow spaces that are accessible from the outside. with a syringe. Pushing in resin via these holes would create veins of harder resin within the gourd, which might alter the tune and strengthen it.
* **Postprocessing.** Ignoring the resin for a bit, you can also make a PLA gourd more stable by allowing it to cure in the oven for some time. I had some success baking it at about 100°C for about an hour. For mor information on how this changes the modulus of different materials, I suggest CNC Kitchen: Thin Walls & PLA Annealing and Changes in annealed PLA
> 3 votes
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Tags: print-material, quality
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thread-6225 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6225 | Marlin Firmware Auto Leveling only re-centers the XY-axis (Delta printer) | 2018-06-25T00:34:15.073 | # Question
Title: Marlin Firmware Auto Leveling only re-centers the XY-axis (Delta printer)
I'm trying to get my printer to auto level its bed, with Marlin firmware using the following:
* Printer: Kossel Linear plus (Delta 3D printer)
* Board: MKS Base V1.5
* Firmware: Marlin customized
I go into the menu on my LCD, and go to the prepare screen. The screen has the following options:
* Auto home
* Level Bed
* Bed leveling: off
When I select the "Auto home" function, the printer uses the stops at the top of the delta to zero itself.
When I select the "Level bed" function, the printer once again uses the end stops to level itself.
If I turn the Bed leveling to ON, then the Level Bed function will do the exact same thing.
My auto-leveling device is connected to the Z-axis end-stop, and looks like so:
I have the `#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR` line in my config.h, as well as the `#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN` line. I'm not sure why the printer doesn't actually lower the head to the plate and press the endstop.
Any clues as to how to make the printer level the bed and not home the XY axis?
# Answer
You are correct to define the constants `AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR` and `Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN`, be sure to define the following also:
```
#define Z_MAX_POS MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS
```
and
```
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 300 // Distance between the nozzle to printbed after homing
```
* *Note that 300 should be the distance from nozzle to bed after homing.*
Please look into the configuration files of this Kossel Linear Plus and compare them with your own configuration files, you may have missed something.
> 1 votes
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Tags: marlin, delta, bed-leveling
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thread-1471 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1471 | How to reuse modelling bases for the Stratasys uPrint SE Plus? | 2016-07-03T07:49:03.513 | # Question
Title: How to reuse modelling bases for the Stratasys uPrint SE Plus?
It's criminal how wasteful the Stratsys uPrint SE Plus is with it's 'one use' modelling bases. Is there a reliable way to re purpose them? I have tried ethanol and acetone, but not had any luck.
# Answer
> 4 votes
What I tried and worked is to apply water based normal Glue-stick on the tray and with few drops of water distribute it evenly across the tray surface, let it dry and then you are good to go!
# Answer
> 3 votes
People have done quite a bit of experimenting with reusing Mojo build plates over the years. The uPrint is likely similar. Basically a different adhesion layer is placed on the bed that has easier release. BuildTak has been used successfully. Gluestick or hairspray such as Aquanet will work and are water soluble for easier removal post-print.
# Answer
> 1 votes
By oversight in training, the operators of one of our UPrint SE Plus printers was simply placing the tray in the bath with the printed part. After it was in the bath, all support material was removed and they dried and reused the tray. This process was used for months before it was discovered, and they used the same tray for many prints. Has anyone else tried this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I've done the bit where you place the tray and part into the bath. Upon completion of dissolving, I then used a little dawn dish-soap to clean the tray, let it dry. I have access and used DI water for the hand washing (without any scrub or pad, just my hands). The trays worked fine. Someone else took over for a bit. I think they were trying to clean with Vinegar, and the trays have all turned white (not sure if that is from this?). So, they aren't being reused. I've started being a bit strategic with some print jobs. I'll print in one corner, then use cutters to remove the support without damaging the tray. Then I'll print on that tray in a different corner.
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Tags: material, build-plate
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thread-6230 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6230 | Easy way to refine a 3D-model for 3D printing by removing internal geometry | 2018-06-25T16:19:52.930 | # Question
Title: Easy way to refine a 3D-model for 3D printing by removing internal geometry
I have been given a proprietary 3D file of a real world item from an item manufacturer with the obligations not to hand it out to anyone to produce a print in a low single digit percentge scale of the object. The object model I was handed was given in STL format, and contains even the tiny geometry of the internals. The first set of files given did come with walls that became too thin to be printable in some areas, and I had to ask them to thicken these parts, which they did.
Now, these files *still* contain tons of redundant internal geometry), like bolts that would be M20 or something IRL. The technical design is actually produced in a 1:1 scale - and thus much of the item's complexity is retained in scaling and slicing, because I was provided with neat, nested shells that don't intersect at all. A tiny piece of internal geometry after slicing for illustration without giving much about the actual object (which is under DND).
ALL of this internal is superflous, waste of material and additional print time.
The STL of this item contains (according to Meshmixer) about 40 shells, most of them representing single bolts, while the really relevant parts are all in the shell 1. The really problematic part is though, that even ditching these 39 superfous shells, the space reserved for them and a lot of internal geometry is left behind when I try to get rid of the internal geometry.
Saturday I tried for hours to simplify the model first and then stitch away tons of the internal geometry with blender, but while this did reduce print time greatly for the internal cavities were gone, the simplification did mess up other parts of the model to a degree that wasn't nice anymore and it messed up the scaling. Also, it was very time consuming - 6 hours or more - which makes this a very bad time-effect ratio. The print with the retaining 2 % of the vertices was... ok, but not as nice as with the half million vertices from the original file, mainly because I had to simplify the model *first* to even have a chance to see into the model to get the internal cavity vertices grabbed and removed/merged, before fixing any holes left from the mercyless treatment by Meshmixer's auto-repair feature.
**Is there a way to analyse a model for internal structure and remove them for slicing without having to remodel a 500k vertex / 50 MB object in its full? It would be best if such a way was somewhat automated.**
My setup usually uses Cura as a slicing engine, my modeling softwares of choice are - in this order - Fusion360 or DesignSpark Mechanical. If nothing else helps and I have to attack singe vertices I do my way around Blender<sup>auto-updated via Steam</sup>. Meshmixer I usually use only to fix up models before slicing.
# Answer
> 4 votes
About 10 minutes after writing the question, it suddenly dawned on me, that I was not using Meshmixer to its full potential, and especially not a simple property of Cura:
* Cura can discard all parts of a model, that are intersecting a closed volume and thus are *inside* another volume - fixing intersecting shells this way. This option is called "Union Overlapping Volumes"
* Meshmixer can, using the meshmix tool, add simple and somewhat complex geometries to specific places in given size and orientation.
Now, these two parts can be used to get rid or complex internal geometry by intentionally setting it up an intersecting shell. Usually intersecting shells are a no-no for good 3D design, but by having something - for example a cylinder - intersect just the internal geometry and enclosing it, these parts *vanish* in the slicing, if the slicer is set to fix intersecting shells by ignoring internal geometry. Cura does so with a simple setting, one that seems to be on by default in the 3.3.1 distribution.
So the odd solution to *how to reduce a model's internal geometry without impacting the outer look* can be this at times:
* Manually **add** geometry, that *(fully) encloses* the internal geometry and turns it into an intersecting shell, allowing (some) slicer softwares to ignore this part.
To illustrate, almost the same area of the object before and after the added cylinder:
As one can see, the structure became much simpler, as the cylinder cuts away all the internal structure (the 'spokes' and 'axle' one might want to identify from the left picture, but that would be a misidentification) is gone. Much less internal geometry is retained and instead it is now filled with a cylindrical space of nice and fast(er) to print infill, here "Quarter Cubic".
While this is just a *partly* automated solution - demanding the manual addition of the intentional intersecting shell - I am yet to be taught about a *fully* automated way.
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Tags: 3d-models, slicing
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thread-6204 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6204 | How to calibrate Ender-4 | 2018-06-20T00:03:11.560 | # Question
Title: How to calibrate Ender-4
I have just assembled the Creality3D Ender-4 kit a couple of days ago. I completed some rewiring and everything seems to be wired correctly, I'm able to auto-home successfully, but this is the problem I'm having:
I tried printing a calibration cube. The first problem I noticed is that the printing is starting on one corner instead of the center as specified on the Printer Settings in CURA (check settings below).
Second problem is that I'm getting significant distortion. The movement of the printer seems to be fine, no jerks of weird sounds. I tried all I know but I honestly don't know how to proceed with this. I have a couple of hours of experience in 3D Printing so I'm completely lost.
This is the result I got (Model printed with Raft for adhesion):
These are my CURA settings:
**Printer**
**Extruder**
# Answer
The **first problem** is solved by removing the tick mark at `Origin at center`. Most printers have their origin at a corner (not Delta's, their origin is in the top center).
The **second problem** is a little more difficult to solve. Please note that a kit should be loaded with preset values that should be fair enough to print, your picture does not appear to print the calibration cube correctly, so you should try to **eliminate each possibility one at a time**. As said, your picture is not very clear, but it does not appear to be a cube, it looks more rectangular (also note that a raft is only interesting when printing difficult, read prone to warping, filaments like ABS).
What you could do is print simple squares (no raft, but use a brim or skirt), e.g. 50 x 50 mm (only 1 or 2 walls in width and a few layers high), and measure the printed size.
* If these squares do not stick to the heated bed, calibrate the Z height to nozzle distance and re-level the bed or increase the heated bed temperature;
* If the X and Y sizes are different, you should calibrate the steps per mm for the direction that differs (M92 is the G-code to set the steps per mm; M500 to store the value to memory; these codes can be given over USB using specific programs that interface through a command line interface e.g. Pronterface, Repetier-Host or OctoPrintor alternatively in a `.gcode` file and loaded through the printer user interface);
* If extrusion does look weird, measure the filament width at various sections of the filament with a vernier caliper and calibrate the extruder stepper and set the correct amount of steps per mm;
* Finally, print the 20 x 20 x 20 mm cube and measure the height and adjust the steps per mm for the Z direction.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Fix was actually pretty simple.
I just removed the printer that I had setup on CURA following the manual provided by Creality (found on the provided SD Card) and started from scratch.
The one that worked was actually setting up the printer as a Creality CR-10 and then just changing the XYZ dimensions. This setup has the *Origin at Center* option unchecked as suggested in the comments. That's all it took...
**New results:**
> 2 votes
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Tags: calibration, creality-ender-4
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thread-4209 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4209 | Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints? | 2017-06-10T01:56:58.333 | # Question
Title: Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?
### TL;DR
Is it possible to build a hotend, using separate parts, sourced on eBay, from China, and still achieve a high quality print?
---
In my opinion, the E3D V6 hotend is rather expensive, at $/£70, especially to those building to a tight budget. Now, obviously/presumably, there is some quite rigorous QA and testing of the build, and they have to pay for their research costs and initial machining set ups and this is reflected in the high cost. Also, the expression, *you get what you pay for*, springs to mind.
However, I wondered if I sourced the individual parts from China, for a dollar apiece, that is to say the:
* Throat (with Teflon lining)
* Heating block
* Heatsink
* Nozzle
* Pneumatic connector (PC4-05/PC4-M06)
* Heater
* Thermistor
could I too, end up with a hotend, that performs as well as, or even out performs, an E3D hotend, or am I living in cloud cuckoo land?
After all, let's not forget that most, if not, all of the parts used in a E3D hotend probably come from China anyway, these days, as most production facilites have moved from the US/EU to the cheaper manufacturing bases and machining shops, in SE Asia.
I have read *so many times* that people were experiencing extrusion problems, shoddy prints, etc, from their cheap printer, until they finally shelled out the cash and upgraded to a genuine E3D hotend. After that the prints were much improved. I have read this *countless* times, in blogs, threads, etc., so I presume that it is not possible.
I realise that if the parts are not finished correctly, and end up with burring on the inside of the throat, nozzle, etc., then the filament will not extrude correctly. See tbm0115's answer to How long is an extruder's/nozzle's life? However, assuming that the parts that I receive are machined, and finished, correctly then there should not be a problem, right?
Has anyone actually done this? Is tinkering with hotends a done thing? Does anyone have any good pointers and/or tips?
NOTE: This question is not really after opinionated answers, in order to stay within SE rules - although opinions are always welcome - but I just want to know if anyone has first hand (positive or negative) experience of this.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Hard to say for sure - my whole printer is cheap parts bought as a kit in China by a Chinese student who abandoned it in the US (I resurrected it after it was abandoned.) It includes all the parts you list, and I think we finally sorted out what the thermistor actually is so the temperatures are more accurate now.
It prints.
Could it print better? - Probably, but at some point replacing all the various cheap parts starts to look foolish .vs. just build a new printer with better parts all around, leaving the original functional. I doubt I've ever met a "E3D V6" and I'd have to google it to see what sort of paragon of printing it's supposed to be. The only thing I'm actually considering replacing is the nozzle itself, partly because I'm just guessing what size it is (mostly based on the way it prints when set to various sizes.) I'm also contemplating adding some sort of insulation for the heater block, having squnched some aluminum foil around it as a first stop-gap.
Likewise, if your concern is with burrs, etc. a degree of fettling by you can sort that sort of thing out, if you know to do it and how to do it (i.e. you need to be somewhat mechanically ept.) But of course "parts from China" are not a monolithic entity - there are good parts and bad parts that both come from China - given the state of internet sales, you may well have (unknown to you) the choice of parts that passed quality control, parts that failed quality control, and parts that quality control never looked at (some of which might pass, some of which might fail), from the same production facility, available to you from various vendors at various price points. And then there are many different production facilities as well.
Production in the US or Europe is no magic bullet either - competing with imports on price is difficult, so one hopes that superior quality is on offer, but it may or may not actually be from a given vendor, or a given batch of parts.
# Answer
> 3 votes
*Sorry for digging up the topic, but I'd like to share my experience with cheap Chinese parts obtained from those obvious auction sites.*
---
For my Hypercube Evolution I have ordered all parts from Chinese suppliers except for the Aluminium extrusion profiles. This includes belts, screws, nuts, electric cables, printer board, steppers and drivers, hotend parts, you name it.
I do not own, or have ever owned, an official E3D hotend, so I cannot compare the clone E3D hotends to the official directly. However, I do own an Ultimaker 3 Extended (UM3E) that I manage for a group of printing enthusiasts to promote building your own printer and produce spare parts that are not sold commercially or sold at ridiculous prices. The quality of the products produced by the UM3E are very good, as expected from this quality brand, so I can compare the products from my own printer with the ones from the UM3E.
It is often said **by others** that the prints I have created with my HyperCube Evolution are at least as good as the products produced on the UM3E, or sometimes even better. In that respect, it is very hard to see any differences in the products. The UM3E is known for the simplicity of use and it's relative low need to tinker to get or keep it working, but my own creation does not require a lot of tinkering either. E.g. I have never had any clogs (several kilometers of 2.85 mm filament printed) while I use a relative high retraction length (the same as on the UM3E as default in Cura). In this respect I have never had the need to upgrade to an official E3D hotend, and most likely will never do need to.
So **to answer your question** if it is possible to build a hotend, using separate parts, sourced from China, to achieve a high quality print (while maintaining a low need for tinkering), I can vouch **that it is indeed possible**.
---
*Sidemark: Note that if you source your materials locally, e.g. local webshops, you probably also end up with imported Chinese parts! (usually **at much higher costs**; but at least they **arrive sooner**!)*
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Tags: printer-building, hotend, diy-3d-printer
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thread-3542 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3542 | CT Segmentation Model Intersection | 2017-02-06T20:55:24.743 | # Question
Title: CT Segmentation Model Intersection
I am using (micro)CT data and generating 3-D models using CTAn - a SkyScan piece of software: Bruker - Control and reconstruction programs.
Basically I am using simple thresholding to create 3-D model STL files.
What I would like to do is get the number of voxels where the surface area of the two models touch.
Imagine having a model that is a sphere with another model within it that is exposed on a portion of the sphere. I want to know the surface area of that exposed portion.
Does anybody have any advice? I have been banging my head against tools like 3D-Slicer, Seg3D, ITK-Snap and so on and have not been able to find this capability.
# Answer
This solution assumes the following
a-The scaling factor for the object is correct i.e real world dimensions .
b- There is a .STL file available .
c- **This will take some 3ds max skill and time .**
***Steps to be followed -***
1- Take the .stl file into Autodesk 3ds max .
2- Now we are going to trace the exposed surface using a process called ***reptology*** . Here is link to get you started - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azkbuZloTqo .
3- Once you are satisfied with recreating the mesh and sure it is as accurate as humanly possible , run the measure utility on the recreated part .
This is the link . https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/3ds-max/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2016/ENU/3DSMax/files/GUID-12CDEA7A-042E-4CB3-9BF6-8191D3290CD8-htm.html .
If there is a upper side and a lower side to the model then you should divide the surface area in half ( in this case it would be ).
3Ds max is very accurate if your part is designed properly .
4- This can be done directly on the .STL file if you can efficiently isolate your target area , lemme warn you this is not an easy task .STL files are notoriously difficult to edit. ( its much easier to redesign on top )
Try it should work out fine .
Please do not waste time processing .STL files on 3D-Slicer, Seg3D, ITK-Snap they are mostly for file preparation i.e (.STL file generation ),viewing and study purposes only .
> 1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models
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thread-6153 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6153 | Printer Enclosure Material Selection | 2018-06-11T21:23:23.087 | # Question
Title: Printer Enclosure Material Selection
Im planning on building an enclosure for my CR-10S and am debating whether to use MDF walls lined with an insulation foam that reduces noise and keeps the heat in or going with double pane glass walls.
My main concern is not necessarily keeping the enclosure hot as it is for noise reduction. Obviously the wood with insulation will give better sounds dampening, but I am wondering if anyone has tried both or at least heard a printer before and after with both and if the glass alone had a significant effect on the sounds reduction.
# Answer
> 1 votes
To reduce the noise, you could replace the metal linear bearings for plastic ones. This reduces the produced noise considerably from experience. Also, put the printer on damping rubber feet.
Enclosing the printer should be done with care, completely boxing the printer up could lead to increased temperatures of your board electronics, steppers and cold end cooling. Make sure to vent some air. How you box up does not matter, although double glass window panes does seem a bit of an expensive solution.
# Answer
> 1 votes
There's a type of 1/2" insulation foam available in the US that my shop uses. Here's a link to it at Home Depot. It's pretty tough so long as you aren't hanging things off it, and you could build a frame out of 2"x4" beams to pressure fit squares in there. It's also massively sound dampening.
---
Tags: enclosure
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thread-6233 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6233 | DQ542MA Blown Fuse | 2018-06-25T22:28:44.347 | # Question
Title: DQ542MA Blown Fuse
I purchased two DQ542MA drivers in order to run two NEMA 17 steppers. After about five days of use I noticed that the green indicator light had gone out on both drivers.
The DQ542MA driver running my NEMA 23 High Torque stepper was still running and it has been connected to that stepper for five months now. Using an Ohm meter to check I found that the 10amp 125v LittleFuse connected to the power pins had blown on both drivers connected to the NEMA 17 steppers cutting off the power.
I decided to test the still working driver by disconnecting it from the NEMA 23 stepper and corresponding pins on the motherboard and connecting and resetting it to work with one of the NEMA 17 steppers. The minute I turned my printer back on, the still working stepper (now attached to the NEMA 17 stepper) immediately blew the same fuse. I don't understand why the NEMA 17 steppers blew the fuses of the drivers, seeing as how both are properly set to a RMS of 1.69 and a pulse/rev of 400, and both are connected to a 24v PSU.
**My question is:** "When I fix the drivers should I solder in a 15amp 125v LittleFuse to better help the power flow and prevent any further blown fuses?"
# Answer
> 3 votes
If the fuse blows - there is a reason for that, so changing it for a higher rating without understanding the source of the problem is:
## Asking for fire!!!
Every stepper has its own internal resistance (and as we have a magnetic field it is called a *reluctance*), that is limiting the max current, but this equation needs to take `U` given to the motor.
> A simple and popular solution is to give only as much voltage as needed, utilizing the resistance (RL) of the winding to limit the current (fig. 4a). A more complicated but also more efficient and precise solution is the inclusion of a current generator (fig. 4b), to achieve independence from the winding resistance. The supply voltage in Fig. 4b has to be higher than the one in Fig. 4a. A comparison between both circuits in the dynamic load/working order shows visible differences.
Source *Stepper motor driving* by H. SAX - page 2
That said - the higher voltage applied to the stepper - the higher current is flowing via its coils.
Please check the datasheet of your driver to see how it is managing to current limit your stepper as that looks like a source of your issue.
# Answer
> 3 votes
## Part Analysis
Let's see what we have:
* The fuse in the driver is set to keep up the loads that the driver can safely handle.
* The NEMA 17 results in a blown out fuse
## Conclusion
The problem lies not in the driver, but the NEMA 17 motor or the wires to it and can be of several ways:
* The motor has a short and is defective.
* The motor is not rated to the driver board.
* The wires to the motor create a short.
But there is also a 3rd option, as the driver board is connected to the controller:
* The controller supplies the driver with too much current and fries it.
## Solution
Do not solder in a higher rated fuse, as this is asking for fatal part failure - which could be fire just as much as totally frying the logic circuits on the board forever. Instead, find out what type of error resulted in the blown fuse, and replace these parts.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, electronics, switching-power-supply, stepper-driver
--- |
thread-6238 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6238 | Which common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (w.r.t. durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item? | 2018-06-26T15:59:44.077 | # Question
Title: Which common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (w.r.t. durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item?
***Note****: Before any negative flagging, we asked permission on Meta prior to posting & got a YES: **Could this Printing Material Recommendation Question be or shaped to be valid on 3D SE?***
---
Which common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (with durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item?
**Item to replicate via 3D Printing:**
Club Handle \- 5/6 image album (a few images are attached below as well)
**Physics, Mechanics & Forces in play on object:**
Usage Intent is not to create an Impact or Hit but to **Flow in Circular motion** like this: YouTube - 10 Best Indian Club Exercises
* Item with **PCO 28 PET Threading**
* 20 cm Length - Avg. 28 mm Diameter
Instead of me trying to figure out materials, I seek advice from experienced experts here.
Please advise and suggest on materials:
* Ideal top 3 materials recommended/ most suitable for this item?
* Other top 3 materials that are easier to get through "Entities" on 3dHubs?
* **Add Thought:** *Is "negative" printing is the way to go (Sculpting, lathe, threading, CNC types)?*
**Note:** The immediate answer people gave was to use **PP printing**, however I am looking for alternatives because PP printing is **not common or easy to find nearby** and **expensive**.
---
**Self Homework:**
So I looked through these **material guides** which show **different attributes** and **ratings** for various **parameters**:
* Print-ability
* Strength
* Stiffness
* Durability
* Price
For example, Polypropylene - Simplify3D - Polypropylene
*Polypropylene is great for high-cycle, low strength applications due to its fatigue resistance, semi-flexible, and lightweight characteristics.*
**Entire Material Lists looked at:**
---
# Answer
## No FDM print at all.
The problem of your design will not be the materials, but a basic property of FDM printing: FDM Printers do create a structure by placing a long string of filament next to itself and ontop of itself, creating tons of boudaries.
These boundaries between the layers are the weak points for this application: Even if the material like ABS could withstand the blow handled with such a club, the print will break at its weakest point - which in this case is any layer boundary. This is amplyfied by the basic design we have here: The elongated shape will serve as a lever on each of the weak boundries, until one gives way and results in catastrophic failure and a flying clubhead.
# Non-FDM for the rescue.
To counteract this, you need to use a different method than FDM printing to get a more homogenous material than the bound deposited filament. Such methods could be for example SLA (Stereolithography) or SLS (Selective Laser Sintering). Both could easily offer even tiny details.
SLS uses Nylon or metal powders, sometimes even ceramics - Tungstencarbide for example.
### SLA/Resin
Using a Resin printer using the SLA methods results in an object almost as homogenous as an injecion molded object. Proper aftercare and curing is required to get the best results. Also, Resin prints usually age under UV light, which can negatively impact lifetime. SLA printers are expensive (for home printers), print shops that offer them relatively rare and costly (in comparison to FDM) but usually offer superb resolution and almost perfect smoothness. A lot of the exact material properties is resin and aftercare dependant.
A way around the aging could be that the results of an SLA print could be used to create green-sand molds countless times, which can be used for casting metal or even some thermoplastics. Remember though, that cooling metal shrinks.
### SLS Nylon
Nylon would be a medium rigid, light solution, but it ages and has a quite rough surface. It does offer some flex, almost perfect for this application. While most SLS machines for nylon are commercial to industrial, print technology of this kind is widespread enough to make them somewhat affordable (for an industrial printer) and printshops for these relatively common, prints are not cheap but well priced.
### DMLS / SLM
Direct Metal Laser Sintering and Selective Laser Melting - an evolution of SLS - allows to create structures from various metals by sintering/melting powders of metal at the right spot to gain shape. The benefit would be, that you get a part that could withstand much more destructive testing than your bottle used as a clubhead - you get a workpiece of solid metal (Steel, aluminium, Titanium and a lot others are available) after all that has the same properties as a cast item. The big downside is, that only few companies currently delve into DMLS, among them the former patent holder of many of the FDM printing patents, Stratasys. This means, that a machine for this is industrial rated and priced, and that print suppliers charge accordingly.
> 3 votes
# Answer
***If you want a 3D printing answer then***
I see that the part has a few major points of concern to me:
1. Threads (Gosh I hate threads).
2. Tolerance - +/- 0.1 mm-0.2 mm should work fine (in terms of those threads fitting on the top of the bottle)
3. Strength - This needs to be strong, so as to be able to effectively not break when spinning around.
In terms of tech your best option is - SLS
Layer resolution - 0.120 mm
For material options (In descending order of choice)
1. ***PA 11*** \- Impact resistance is the major property for these parts. This is the material for your application . Here is the material data sheet - EOS PA 1102 Black.
2. ***Glass filled PA-12*** (I'll be taking this as second option) it has the strength but is extremely brittle . Material Data sheet - EOS PA 3200 GF.
3. ***DuraForm ProX HST Composite*** (The expensive option) Yeah this will work. Check out the data sheet 3D Systems DuraForm ProX HST Composite
***Now the Non 3D printing solution***
So, to manufacture this design any other way is actually very simple but the threads are a serious area of concern.
1. The body section can be cut on a standard 3 axis CNC.
For material options please choose a no brainer like ***polycarbonate or delrin***. Find information here: Plastic CNC machining.
2. Threads would have to be manually lathe machined onto it. (You need some beautiful hand work here). This might not be feasible by suppliers on 3dhubs.
Now my argument is to go for Additive manufacturing over CNC as you get the part straight out of the machine with the threads and material strength innate.
You can even make the part hollow using some design skills. This will make it lighter.
It would be very nice if you could get your 3D file ready so as to start this whole process and actually go about to manufacture it.
I can add more details if you want to. Just comment and ask.
> 3 votes
# Answer
## I do think that FDM is possible for this item.
Polyamide (nylon) would be my first choice for this, as it has great interlayer strength and it is very impact resistant and durable. Its failure mode will be permanent bending and stretching rather than cracks or a clean break like common FDM plastics like PLA and ABS.
I also needed a filament to simulate PP for FDM use recently, and found that Polymaker's nylon co-polymer CoPa in its conditioned state closely matches PP in its properties. Conditioned means that it has absorbed moisture which softens polyamide.
Regular nylon for 3d printing should have similar properties to CoPa, if a bit softer than PP in my experience.
## However material is only secondary to geometry
I believe that in general the actual 3d model and its geometry is more important than the material itself. Indeed this item could be made using regular brittle PLA if the design is good, but it might be heavy or bulky. Thus choosing a better suited material is often a trade between weight, dimensions, and cost. Printing with PLA using very high infill might work, but would take too long and be too heavy compared to nylon, as an example.
This also means that the design of the part would inform the choice of the printing method to be used. Using FDM printing the Z-axis is a lot weaker than X-Y. But other methods are not completely isotropic either - they still have layers that can introduce stress risers and weaker bonding, but they are much less prominent than in FDM. Changing the design can enable you to choose a cheaper process.
Two important principles for designing for 3d printing to be considered before doing a final selection of material are:
* Increasing the dimensions/wall thickness in weak or highly loaded areas.
* Design with printing orientation in mind. Choose a proper orientation for the load the item will experience.
To exemplify for your particular case: Increase the thickness of the handle around the connection to the bottle. Lay it down with the long axis in the X-Y plane which will increase the strength tremendously, perhaps enabling it to be printed in PLA, ABS or PETG. Either split it in half and glue/screw it together, or use supports. You may need to print the threads upright as a separate part that is mated to the handle in the assembly process.
Finally, I would like to encourage you to embrace the main benefit of "rapid prototyping" - its speed and low cost to try things out. Make a first prototype and test it to destruction before settling on the design and material selection.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-material, material, support-material
--- |
thread-6245 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6245 | Marlin Minimum X/Y Feedrate | 2018-06-28T03:02:58.660 | # Question
Title: Marlin Minimum X/Y Feedrate
I'm in a situation where I'd like to move the XY axes on my printer extremely slowly (down to 0.05 mm/s = 3 mm/min). \[I'm okay with 'smooth' motion not being possible\].
First off, here's the (somewhat Frankensteined) setup I'm using:
I'm basically using the LulzBot TAZ 6 for motion control (XYZ, bed temp) with a custom extruder mounted in the place of the printhead. I've got a computer running a Perl script on Debian which sends synchronized commands to my extruder hardware and the board on the TAZ 6. So far I've only slightly modified the Marlin firmware to match the baud rate on my computer and shrink the motion command buffer.
Motion control for the TAZ 6 is accomplished by directly sending G-code line by line either from a terminal or from that Perl script.
What I've found is that while I can set arbitrarily slow speeds for the Z axis (lead screw), the X and Y (belts) won't go slower than about 15 mm/min. The printer will accept the e.g., `G1 F0.1 X1` input, but will just move at the 15 mm/min.
Unfortunately, the experiment I'm trying is giving me good results at ~5 mm/min (on a commercial linear stage), so I'd like to resolve this.
I've tried setting the jerk to 0/low values via `M205 S0 T0 X0 Y0`, and the maximum acceleration lower as well (`M203`? I recall), but without resolution.
Is movement limited just by the type of actuator? It seems to work for the Z-axis but not the X/Y-axes, I think it might be some firmware setting.
Edit: I've attached an image of the default settings from an `M503` call (acceleration, jerk, steps/unit, etc).
# Answer
> 1 votes
What I could suggest here is:
1. set the acceleration to `1` instead `0` so we have `M201 X1 Y1`
2. use `G1` `X`dest `Y`dest **`F3`** \- feed rate is given as an integer
---
Tags: marlin, lulzbot
--- |
thread-6247 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6247 | How to use an Anet A8 control board with a damaged AVR IC? | 2018-06-28T13:24:45.037 | # Question
Title: How to use an Anet A8 control board with a damaged AVR IC?
---
With respect to this question: Anet A8 reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor!
Having read the issue, it seems that this is a common problem for the ANET3D board. I'd like to ask two questions:
1. Is it possible to sever connections to the ATMEGA and use the hardware itself while controlled with the Raspberry Pi or some other dev board?
2. While waiting for a new board (seems to be the only cost/time effective choice), is there any way to use the other temperature circuit (likely having to do some work in Arduino IDE)?
My hot end decided to set itself to 265°C while my bed is reading the new thermistor on the new Hot End just fine. I need to get a few prints made while waiting on funds to replace the board for full functionality.
I figure #1 is too much to hope for, but I have to ask. So, if you swap the heater circuits, what do you have to modify in `configuration.h` to convince the firmware to accept the modified input?
# Answer
*This post was taken from Tooniis's comment.*
---
I've been doing #2 for a week now. I swapped ports of the nozzle and hotbed. Now I have a functional nozzle but the bed cannot be heated. The new hardware should arrive soon though. As for #1, it would be very hard to do since the ATmega chip is an SMD package.
In `sanguino.h` there are two lines which define the pins for the hotbed thermistor and the nozzle thermistor. One of them is `6` and the other is `7`, and I just swapped those two. The lines are next to each other.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: extruder, anet-a8
--- |
thread-6244 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6244 | What is wrong with this angle? | 2018-06-28T00:14:49.520 | # Question
Title: What is wrong with this angle?
I'm trying to print a model that looks like this:
at a size of approximately 10"x7"x7". I've tried 3 times now, with various different infill and shell settings, and had it fail all 3 times in the same way at the same point: right at the point where the central column begins to angle back (which is a bit higher than where the two side columns angle back--those angles print just fine) the whole thing ends up detached somehow and I end up with messes like this:
How can I figure out what's going wrong with this print? I've already wasted a non-trivial amount of time and filament on this, and it's starting to drive me up the wall. Somehow, I've got the wrong settings to make this geometry print, but I can't seem to find any settings that actually work.
Using the Raise3D N2 Plus dual-extruder printer.
**EDIT:** WRT questions raised in the comments:
The extruder isn't clogging. It's continuing to print; it's just that at the point where the central column angles back, the whole thing separates and I end up with a distinct layer that prints straight up and down rather than angling inward.
I'm using PLA at 215°C and 3 wall layers.
This problem seems to be specific to this model; I've been able to print other large things before without problems.
Never heard of MeshMixer, but the reviews on the download page make it appear to be a very buggy and wouldn't work at all, at least in the current version, and it requires a registration to download even though it's nominally free, so I think I'll pass on this one.
# Answer
Hex infill patterns are normally chosen for strength, as the honeycomb resists force in many directions. However, hex infill patterns are slow to print and the older, simpler fill patterns print faster and provide sufficient support for solid architectural models.
Models with shallow roof angles of less than 45 degrees are challenging to print and often result in "air prints" where unsupported filament cascades into a sorry tangle of sadness. Shallow roofs are challenging because each horizontal filament overlaps very little with the preceding adjacent filament. This is where infill proves critical, since the infill supports these filament bridges as they cross each infill line segment.
Slicing software has only recently introduced the hex fill pattern because the code to print a hex infill is VERY complicated. You can see this in the picture as all those fine lines of retracted filament scattered throughout the hex infill. Earlier, simpler fills such as diagonal lines provide simpler longer paths for the slicer to implement. Bridging works best at speed over many supporting points. Excessive retraction causes the extruder to "stutter", and makes bridging difficult.
It may therefore help to choose a simpler fill pattern for printing this model and reserve hex infill for simpler models requiring utmost strength.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: software
--- |
thread-3023 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3023 | How to offset my probe so it's not hanging off the bed at 0, 0 position when printing | 2016-11-07T20:37:56.777 | # Question
Title: How to offset my probe so it's not hanging off the bed at 0, 0 position when printing
I had my printer printing fine when using the stock trigger switch as I used it to print the green bracket you see in the picture.
My problem now is when I do a print with the sensor, it moves to 0,0 position. However in this position the sensor is hanging off the bed hence there is nothing for it detect so it crashes into the bed.
As far as I can tell the nozzle is homing in the right place.
How do I tell Marlin the new minimum position it needs to be in so it doesn't crash into the bed?
# Answer
There are at least 2 options to address the problem that you have:
1. Adjust end-stops so that in 0,0 position Z-sensor would still hang above the printing table. This would reduce printing surface but allow perfect calibration
2. Mount extra metal plate at the table mount where it would not bump into printer parts and remain reachable for the sensor (perhaps with sensor relocation) when positioned at 0,0. This option requires extra space within table movement boundaries but saves printing surface.
> 0 votes
# Answer
**It is not a problem** that the sensor is *not above* the build plate ***during printing*** as long as it is *above* the build plate ***during the auto bed levelling sequence***.
Homing does not necessarily need to be the `(0,0)` coordinate. Usually, a printer homes on the endstop switches, from that coordinate an offset is defined in the firmware to move to the origin. This implies that (depending on the position of the sensor), the sensor may be outside the bed area when the nozzle is at the origin `(0, 0)`). Therefore, similarly, you need to tell the printer the location of the Z sensor with respect to the nozzle position in order for the printer to keep the sensor on the bed when levelling by setting boundaries for the sensor to reach.
---
E.g. for Marlin firmware the offset from homing to the bed origin is defined for an Anet A8 by:
```
#define X_MIN_POS -33
#define Y_MIN_POS -10
```
The values you should use need to correspond to the actual offset from the homing point to the origin of the bed `(0,0)`.
When using an auto bed leveling sensor like you are using you should consider this remark:
> If using a Probe for Z Homing, enable Z\_SAFE\_HOMING also!
Un-comment the proper line in the configuration file to read:
```
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
```
This will make the printer aware of the sensor, and home Z in the middle of the bed (default behavior, but can be changed), so that your sensor is never off the bed when probing the bed for Z homing.
Furthermore, you need to set the offset values of the center of your sensor to the nozzle center:
```
* Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).
* X and Y offsets must be integers.
*
* In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:
* #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
* #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
*
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R <-- probe (20,20)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (10,10)
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
*/
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER XXX // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER YYY // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
```
Where XXX and YYY are your actual values.
And set the boundary of the probing section:
```
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 190
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170
```
Note that the values should match your bed size!
And:
```
// The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10
```
Details on setting the boundaries of the bed to keep the sensor on the bed is described in question "How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?".
> 4 votes
# Answer
If using `marlin firmware` center your prints.
In my case...
```
#define NOZZLE_X 8
#define NOZZLE_Y -56
```
Then, set the Z-Probe offset from nozzle. In my case the Z-Probe is 50mm behind the hotend.
```
#define SENSOR_LEFT 0
#define SENSOR_RIGHT 0
#define SENSOR_FRONT 0
#define SENSOR_BEHIND 50
```
Finally set the bed extra movement. As you see i added the 50mm's at the back of the bed.
```
#define XTRA_BED_LEFT 0 // Distance nozzle can move towards the left past X = 0
#define XTRA_BED_RIGHT 0 // Distance nozzle can move towards the right past X = 200
#define XTRA_BED_FRONT 0 // Distance bed can move towards the front past Y = 200 (Y=280 for large bed)
#define XTRA_BED_BACK 50 // Distance bed can move towards the back past Y = 0
```
This way once auto leveling, the probe starts with (0,0) and the hotend is 50 mm's in front and out of the bed.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer
--- |
thread-6183 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6183 | Issues with Proto-pasta filament extruding on prusa mk3 | 2018-06-16T14:01:06.227 | # Question
Title: Issues with Proto-pasta filament extruding on prusa mk3
Has anyone run into problems printing with Proto-pasta's HTPLA on a Prusa MK3 (or any printer really)?
I picked up some samples from PP, specifically their glitter filament and a couple of the premium HTPLA filaments. I printed one small piece with the glitter filament the first night I got the package, but I haven't been able to get any of the filaments to print since.
Here's a video I shot outlining the issue's I'm running into.
The problem seems to be that the filaments won't extrude from the nozzle and this problem applies to all of the samples I got. If I unload the HTPLA and print with any of the other filaments I have been printing with (various inland filaments) they all print out fine.
I thought maybe I had a clogged nozzle so I did a couple of cold pulls with a different filament. The pulls came out clean each time. I tried loading the HTPLA back in and while the filament extrudes fine during the MK3's loading process it still doesn't extrude when trying to run an actual print.
I've read through Proto-pastas page on avoiding clogs with composite PLAs and adjusted my slicer settings accordingly but still can't seem to get a print out.
I'm printing with:
* The Prusa i3 MK3
* Slic3r Prusa Edition
+ Tried Extruder temp as low as 195c and as high as 220c
+ Speed of 50mm/s with first layer of 20 or 30mm/s
+ Tried at .15 and .2 mm layer heights
* Stardust Glitter Flake HTPLA - 1.75mm
* Cloverleaf Metallic Green HTPLA - 1.75mm
* Winter Blue Glitter Flake HTPLA - 1.75mm
Any ideas??
# UPDATE
Over the weekend I talked a bit with proto-pasta and did some tests on my own. Proto-pasta suggested disabling the filament sensor on my printer since the additives in some exotic filaments can falsely trigger the sensor.
I went to try this, but my sensor was already off.
I tried switching back to a known good filament and found that I couldn't get *anything* to extrude anymore. After researching a bit online I suspected that there may be an issue with a clogged nozzle, so I did a couple of cold pulls and then tried one of my known good filaments again. This time I was able to extrude and print out a full test without issue.
After that I switched to one of the HTPLAs and it started printing. I thought all was good, but during the course of the test print the nozzle clogged again and stoped extruding.
So I'm close, but not quite there. I'm wondering if cold pulling again to unclog the nozzle and then walking through some of the settings changes outlined in proto-pasta's page on avoiding clogs will help. If I spent the entire time walking through that page with an *already clogged* nozzle it would make sense that nothing worked. That page is more a list of preventative measures rather than reactive.
I'm going to dig in more tonight. I'll post back with an update.
# Reply from Proto-pasta
I got a reply from Proto-pasta for some questions I asked regarding the nozzle dimensions I should use with their filament. The 0.4 nozzle borehole is not too small for the glitter, though the larger diameter will help it sparkle more.
> Thank you for following up. Yes cold pulls that leave behind material can cause all sorts of trouble. It happens to me on the Lulzbot quite often, probably my biggest gripe about that machine. Anyways, on to your questions:
>
> * Is this accurate? Should I print the glitter filament with a nozzle with a larger borehole diameter? A larger bore is not needed, the glitter flake is quite small and flows through a 0.4 nozzle fine. However, using a 0.4 nozzle and printing layer heights of 0.1 or 0.05 with glitter can cause a shift in apparent color as it forces the glitter to lay down flat.
> * If so, what diameter should I use? 0.6? While not needed, a 0.6 nozzle does allow for a better sparkle or shine from the glitter filament.
> * Are there other proto-pasta filaments that require a larger borehole? Generally any metal or wood filled filament benefits from a large nozzle size. For example, wood filaments most people suggest a 0.5 for better flow but they do work at 0.4. For us, we like to use 0.6 on the metal fills as it allows for a good flow.
> * I have a spool of matte fiber htpla that I got with my last order. Can I print this with my nozzle? The matte fiber was designed as a non-abasive alternative to the Carbon Fiber filament. It does not require a larger nozzle, a 0.4 will work just fine.
# Answer
> 5 votes
# tl;dr
I had a dragging idler pulley that was causing extrusion issues. Opening the idler pulley door and working it a bit with my finger resolve the issue.
# The detailed explanation
So after two weeks or so of troubleshooting, banging my head, taking a break, and coming back to it I'm finally getting good prints again.
I do believe the original problem started with the clogged nozzle due to the bore hole diameter being too small for the glitter filament as mentioned by Axel in the post comments (a bit rude about it, but still probably true), but there were other issues that I ran into.
# Troubleshooting steps
## General cleaning
After I switched back to inland filament (which had been working fine for months) I was still having extrusion issues. At this point it was due to the clog (I suspect).
I tried several steps to unclog the nozzle including the steps suggested by prusa support and cleaning techniques suggested by Tom amongst other places.
I also picked up a couple of pencil brushes on amazon including a small brass brush that's perfect for cleaning off the extruder pulley teeth.
## Cold pulls
During these steps, I think I introduces the second problem without being aware of it. I perform a bunch of cold pulls (explained by Tom in his video and other videos and posts). During one of these cold pulls I forgot to loosen the MK3's idler pulley door before tugging. Once I noticed it I loosened the door, but I think that tug may have affected the idler pully getting it a bit gritty (I don't know *how* it would have done that, but it's my current guess).
At this point I was still getting extrusion issues and didn't think about the idler pulley being the issue, so thinking that the nozzle was still the issue I ordered a second E3D nozzle and some Ethyl Acetate which dissolves PLA.
## Notes on Nozzles and Ethyl Acetate
### E3D nozzles
A couple of helpful points I learned while researching these purchases.
There are a *lot* of cheap nozzles that say they work on the E3D, but be sure to read the comments from whatever nozzle you're looking at because apparently a lot of them either don't fit or don't print well.
I ended up purchasing a replacement nozzle sold directly from E3D to be safe.
### Ethyl acetate
As far as the Ethyl Acetate, I was having a hard time finding it online when looking for it as a solvent without having to purchase the chemical in a giant jar. I didn't want to buy a jug, I only needed a bit.
After doing a bit more research I found out that it's the same chemical that entomologists use to kill insects for preservation and when you look for the chemical from that context you can find it sold in much smaller quantities. I was able to find a small jar of ethyl acetate on amazon for 7 dollars. Smaller, safer, and cheaper.
## Finding the actual problem
Once the nozzle and ethyl acetate came in I pulled off the old nozzle, dropped it into the ethyl acetate to soak, put the new nozzle on (per the instructions from prusa's website), and reaccelerated the printer just to be safe. I tried printing a test block and it seemed better, so I then tried a larger print and while the printed model seemed better, it was still obviously having extrusion issues and crumpled in my hand.
With the nozzle ruled out, I started looking elsewhere on the printer. After watching a video from the 3D Printing Nerd on extrusion issues he was having on his MK3 I decided to check the extruder pulleys. When I tried to open my extruder idler pulley door I noticed I couldn't actually get it open; it seemed to be stuck on the bottom. I tried to free the bottom of the door, but couldn't without forcing it past my comfort level. Instead, I unscrewed the top of the pulley door to remove it.
From here I noticed two things, I didn't get the pulley teeth as clean as I though I had before and the idler pulley's mounting rod was extended just a bit (which is what was causing it to stick at the bottom). I adjusted the rod and put the door back on. It was printing better but still had extrusion issues.
I then watched the pulley during the filament loading and notices that while the extruder stepper motor was turning smooth, the idler pulley was stuttering a bit while turning. I imagine those little stops and starts were what was causing the extrusion issue.
I opened the idler door back up and worked the idler pulley a bit with my finger. It started to spin free (maybe there was gunk in it? maybe it was rubbing a bit against the mount? ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯), so I closed the door and screwed it back in tight.
Ran a test print -\> perfect.
I've run several prints increasing in complexity and it seems like I'm back to printing well.
## How I introduced my own problem
As I noted above in the explanation, I think I introduced the problem during a cold pull where I forgot to loosen the idler pulley door. I know this explanation is super verbose, but when looking around, even after fixing the printer, I haven't really seen many people noting that on the MK3 you should make sure the door isn't screwed down when performing the cold pull. It's def a common sense move, but I don't see it mentioned as a potential for introducing a problem.
Also I didn't see a dragging idler pulley as a possible cause of extrusion issue so I thought I'd note it here as well.
Hopefully if anyone else has a similar problem on the MK3 this will be a source of help.
---
Tags: filament, prusa-i3, filled-pla
--- |
thread-6267 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6267 | Slic3r: How can I automatically modify the STL filename? | 2018-07-01T02:19:17.693 | # Question
Title: Slic3r: How can I automatically modify the STL filename?
When generating STL files with slic3r I would like to automatically prefix the filename with strings such as PLA or PET before uploading to my printer. How can I specify this in the filament settings?
# Answer
The filename is under the "Print settings" tab. Under output options, you can change the name template. You can use words like: \[layer\_height\] to make the name dynamic.
The variable you are looking for here is: \[filament\_preset\] But the full name, with space and everything, is used.
Here is a screenshot:
Here is a link to fuller docs: https://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r/wiki/FAQ#how-can-i-specify-a-custom-filename-format-for-output-g-code-files
# New version of Slic3r
It lets you edit the filename when upload it. You will see what will be upload it and give it any name. But this is a manual process. Just updated my answer for the sake of completeness.
> 8 votes
---
Tags: slicing, slic3r
--- |
thread-6266 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6266 | How can I tell if an STL model will need supports? | 2018-07-01T02:09:53.910 | # Question
Title: How can I tell if an STL model will need supports?
How can I detect if a generated STL model will need to be printed with supports?
Context: I have a pipeline which parametrically generates OpenSCAD models, generates the STL, and sends them to the printer. I would like to (a) automatically detect the cases where supports are necessary so that I can specify the appropriate flags to the slicer, and (b) attempt to rotate the generated model so that supports won't be necessary.
# Answer
You could try to:
1. Slice with slicer (Cura in my case) with support enabled.
2. Search for text: *TYPE:SUPPORT*
G0 F1800 X237.873 Y184.24
G0 X233.869 Y183.237
;TYPE:SUPPORT
G1 F1500 E562.81355
G1 F900 X233.579 Y183.939 E562.91577
G1 X233.368 Y184.67 E563.01816
3. If it exists, then try to call it again:
4. Use auto-orientation plugin to validate if there is a better (no support) model position.
As an alternative, you could scan the mesh and looks for an angle greater than 45 or 50 degrees.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: support-structures, stl, algorithm
--- |
thread-6269 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6269 | What nozzle size should I use for filament containing glitter? | 2018-07-01T20:19:23.797 | # Question
Title: What nozzle size should I use for filament containing glitter?
I recently had a series of issues with my prusa MK3 that kicked off when I tried to print with Proto-pasta's glitter filament using a 0.4 mm nozzle. The glitter clogged up and cleaning it out was pretty difficult.
A different user here pointed out that 0.4 mm was too small for glitter filament. When I initially read (and, after the clogging fiasco, re-read) the Proto-pasta website I didn't find any information suggesting that a larger nozzle borehole diameter was necessary.
I have the glitter and metalic green filaments. Do I need a nozzle with a larger diameter to print these or not? I emailed Proto-pasta about it the other day but have yet to hear back.
# Update
Here's the reply I got from proto-pasta on these questions:
> Thank you for following up. Yes cold pulls that leave behind material can cause all sorts of trouble. It happens to me on the Lulzbot quite often, probably my biggest gripe about that machine. Anyways, on to your questions:
>
> * Is this accurate? Should I print the glitter filament with a nozzle with a larger borehole diameter? A larger bore is not needed, the glitter flake is quite small and flows through a 0.4 nozzle fine. However, using a 0.4 nozzle and printing layer heights of 0.1 or 0.05 with glitter can cause a shift in apparent color as it forces the glitter to lay down flat.
> * If so, what diameter should I use? 0.6? While not needed, a 0.6 nozzle does allow for a better sparkle or shine from the glitter filament.
> * Are there other proto-pasta filaments that require a larger borehole? Generally any metal or wood filled filament benefits from a large nozzle size. For example, wood filaments most people suggest a 0.5 for better flow but they do work at 0.4. For us, we like to use 0.6 on the metal fills as it allows for a good flow.
> * I have a spool of matte fiber htpla that I got with my last order. Can I print this with my nozzle? The matte fiber was designed as a non-abasive alternative to the Carbon Fiber filament. It does not require a larger nozzle, a 0.4 will work just fine.
# Answer
Fact is that you encounter clogs with this filament, so trying a larger diameter nozzle is an option to solve this. Nozzles are very cheaply found in various sizes, so buy a few and experiment. Commonly found larger nozzle sizes are 0.5, 0.6 and 0.8 mm nozzles, even larger nozzles exist, like e.g. 1.0 mm or even larger, but keep in mind that the hot end needs to keep up heating of the extruded filament, so deposition speed may need to be reduced for larger nozzle diameters.
Alternatively, you could fight clogs the usual way by playing with temperature, layer height, retract settings, oiling filament, purging nozzle from previous filament or cooked up residue, etc, etc.
Quoting someone's experience:
> As far as differences, here has been my experience:
>
> * 0.5 mm low back pressure (High speed), and very hard to clog,
> * 0.4 mm medium back pressure, rarely clogs,
> * 0.35 mm high back pressure and very easy to clog.
---
**Edit**: According to Proto-pasta, concerning filament with glitter, a 0.4 mm nozzle should not be a problem as the glitter particles are smaller, the print layer thickness definitely can be a problem. However, they state that a larger diameter nozzle will result in more sparkle as the glitter is not laid too flat.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: filament, filled-pla
--- |
thread-6262 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6262 | Should black high temperature ABS flow in direct sunlight? | 2018-06-30T14:14:13.950 | # Question
Title: Should black high temperature ABS flow in direct sunlight?
I bought a digital sundial online and deployed it in (what else?) direct sunlight in DC in June. Within 30 minutes the gnomon started to sag and the mount started to pull away from the gnomon at the bolt.
This shouldn't happen, right? Or is this expected?
# Answer
Are you sure that this is ABS? (Since it is already trash, you can make a fire test. It should \[correct me if i'm wrong\] produce black smoke) Some ABS can becomes soft at already 80°C.
Just for fun I measured the temp of my gray sofa that was directly in sun light: It was over 70°C. So it could be possible that the sun light already was enough to weak the black ABS. Also the ground is interesting. Some idi\**** room mate puts my black ¿abs? alarm clock on a metal windowsill because he want to know the temps there in the direct sunlight... the alarm clock becomes deformed :(
Probably white and/or coated ABS would be better. Also a inner rod would help against deformation.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, 3d-design, print-material
--- |
thread-5611 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5611 | Are any 3D printed materials biocompatible (safe for implantation in the human body)? | 2018-03-09T13:26:59.363 | # Question
Title: Are any 3D printed materials biocompatible (safe for implantation in the human body)?
This question is similar:
Are there biocompatible materials available to the general public?
But appears to be for non-implantation use. This question is for materials intended to be implanted.
Are any typical 3D printed (extrusion based 3D printer) materials, such as ABS or PLA (or slightly more exotic ones, such as kevlar, fibreglass, or carbon fiber), safe for implantation in the human body? Or in medical terms, are they biocompatible (biofunctionality is not topical for this question)? If not, why not? If most of them are safe, then please explain which ones are NOT safe.
Highly relevant, and perhaps even more interesting is: Are there any peer reviewed medical papers that have investigated what materials are safe for implantation in the human body? A paper which answers this unambiguously would be the ideal answer to this question. Another concern is if the process of 3D printing itself adversely influences the properties of the material in the context of implantation applications.
I've tried to determine the answer to this question myself, but I cannot find any papers or studies which answer it. I can easily find that ABS plastic is "non-biodegradable", but I suppose the issue of adverse host responses is more crucial, e.g. causing inflammation or it being a bacterial growth substrate to promote infections seems like plausible concerns. I'm sure there might be other dangerous complications too, which I'm not aware of.
I found a paper dealing with corrosion issues for implantable metals: DOI: 10.1089/end.1997.11.383
I found a paper dealing with silicone-urethane being prone to breakdown: DOI: 10.1021/ma301965y
I found a paper describing the properties and history of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), which appears to be commonly used as implants: DOI: 10.1109/EEIC.2005.1566331
By extension, a 3D printer using UHMWPE might be safe, barring any adverse chemical or mechanical issues as a result of the 3D printing process itself. However, it is not clear to me if any 3D printers can actually reliably print UHMWPE. Furthermore, it is unclear if UHMWPE is a sane choice, as it appears to be useful in applications where strength is required, such as for joints. What about other applications where load bearing properties are not required (e.g. a simple enclosure for implantable electronics)?
I'm aware that titanium appears to be frequently used for implants, and while titanium 3D printers do exist, they are beyond the scope of this question. The valid context is extrusion based 3D printers in the sub $10,000 range (arbitrarily chosen to make the question avoid being tagged as "too broad").
# Answer
Perhaps more than biocompatible, which generally refers to a material that does not illicit a harmful inflammatory response inside the body, you should be looking at bioresorbable materials, which are materials that dissolve inside the body after a certain time period without needing mechanical removal.
As an example, FDA approved poly (lactic acid) is available in pellet form from Corbion (formerly PURAC biomaterials) and can be extruded into 1.75mm filament for use with any desktop 3D printer (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214860416301385). Similarly, researchers have used poly (caprolactone) to 3D print scaffolds with using a stratasys FDM machine (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/1097-4636(200105)55:2%3C203::AID-JBM1007%3E3.0.CO;2-7).
> 1 votes
# Answer
Yes. I have worked with people who have printed implants of PCL, loaded with antibiotics, for delivery at the infection site: https://www.google.com/search?q=pcl+medical+approval
Also look at PPSU: https://www.google.com/search?q=ppsu+medical+approval
And PEEK: https://www.google.com/search?q=peek+medical+approval
These are currently used for appliances; I'm not aware of them being used for implants yet.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament
--- |
thread-6277 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6277 | BiLinear bed leveling | 2018-07-03T19:32:30.193 | # Question
Title: BiLinear bed leveling
My G29 command reports
```
+0.178 +0.281 +0.830
-0.614 -0.012 +0.371
-1.208 -0.849 -0.351
```
So should I tighten up the screw of the bed, close to 0,0 position or loosen it?
I have a feeling that when I loosen it, it gets away from zero and I expect the opposite to happen.
For bed leveling i use a capacitive probe and after playing around with the screws here is the result
```
+0.406 +0.127 +0.411
-0.161 -0.007 -0.041
-0.572 -0.652 -0.668
```
Finally the leveling process was found here But the question remains. The value `-0.572` corresponds close to `0,0` ?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Proper leveling using plain "A4" or "Letter" paper is recommended. Level the bed by first homing all axes, then level each corner and at mid-span. In between leveling (by dragging the nozzle head from one to another position, beware of the hot nozzle!) redirect the nozzle to "Z=0" or home Z and instruct the printer to go to "Z=0".
Note that capacitive probe sensors are inaccurate, they tend to be influenced by the humidity of air.
Running Marlin Firmware and instructing a `G29` trough a terminal gives me something in the region of the unity matrix:
```
Recv: Bed Level Correction Matrix:
Recv: +0.999994 +0.000000 -0.003585
Recv: +0.000003 +1.000000 +0.000823
Recv: +0.003585 -0.000823 +0.999993
```
Running the command `G29 P3 V4` gives:
> *NOTE:*
>
> * *`P` Set the size of the grid that will be probed (P x P points)*
> * *`V` Set the verbose level (0-4)*
```
Recv: G29 Auto Bed Leveling
Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 22.000 Z: 0.138
Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 22.000 Z: 0.071
Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 22.000 Z: -0.842
Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 97.000 Z: -0.427
Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.083
Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.086
Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 172.000 Z: 0.004
Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 172.000 Z: 0.019
Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 172.000 Z: -0.297
Recv: Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00356075 b: 0.00080090 d: 2.38097906
Recv: Mean of sampled points: 2.07054519
Recv:
Recv: Bed Height Topography:
Recv: +--- BACK --+
Recv: | |
Recv: L | (+) | R
Recv: E | | I
Recv: F | (-) N (+) | G
Recv: T | | H
Recv: | (-) | T
Recv: | |
Recv: O-- FRONT --+
Recv: (0,0)
Recv: 0.13385 0.14866 -0.16731
Recv: 0.21531 0.21284 -0.29814
Recv: 0.26715 0.20050 -0.71286
Recv:
Recv: Corrected Bed Height vs. Bed Topology:
Recv: 0.12837 0.44228 0.42541
Recv: 0.26990 0.56653 0.35465
Recv: 0.38180 0.61425 0.00000
Recv:
Recv: Bed Level Correction Matrix:
Recv: +0.999994 +0.000000 -0.003561
Recv: +0.000003 +1.000000 +0.000801
Recv: +0.003561 -0.000801 +0.999993
```
Running the command `G29 P3 V4` again, but now with my vernier on the bed (opposite to the side of the origin, on the right side of the bed; vernier under probing points 3 and 4), gives:
```
Recv: G29 Auto Bed Leveling
Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 22.000 Z: -0.003
Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 22.000 Z: -0.050
Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 22.000 Z: **5.709**
Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 97.000 Z: **5.892**
Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.007
Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.039
Recv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 172.000 Z: -0.023
Recv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 172.000 Z: 0.017
Recv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 172.000 Z: -0.329
Recv: Eqn coefficients: a: 0.02233918 b: -0.01331358 d: 2.30744504
Recv: Mean of sampled points: 3.45099973
Recv:
Recv: Bed Height Topography:
Recv: +--- BACK --+
Recv: | |
Recv: L | (+) | R
Recv: E | | I
Recv: F | (-) N (+) | G
Recv: T | | H
Recv: | (-) | T
Recv: | |
Recv: O-- FRONT --+
Recv: (0,0)
Recv: -1.27376 -1.23426 -1.57986
Recv: -1.21205 -1.24414 4.64083
Recv: -1.25401 -1.30091 4.45816
Recv:
Recv: Corrected Bed Height vs. Bed Topology:
Recv: 4.05814 2.22162 0.00000
Recv: 3.12192 1.21381 5.22275
Recv: 2.08203 0.15910 4.04215
Recv:
Recv: Bed Level Correction Matrix:
Recv: +0.999750 +0.000000 +0.022334
Recv: +0.000297 +0.999911 -0.013306
Recv: -0.022332 +0.013309 +0.999662
```
From the snippets you can see that the topology is printed in the output. You also see the vernier of about 4.5 mm comming back in the matrices. But the 4.5 mm thickness of the vernier is not easily found in the correction matrix!
The answer to your question is that the origin is in the lower left of the matrix, so you need to loosen the origin screw in the first example (this matrix shows you that the bed is highest at the right-back and lowest at the origin at the left-front). Your second example shows that the whole bed is tilted downwards to the front.
# Answer
> 3 votes
An additional suggestion: after levelling with sensors or mechanically as in Oscar's great answer, verify both the level and the Z-zero by printing a single-layer pattern such as a few concentric squares or circles. Inspect to verify that no location is too high (material fails to extrude) or too low (material doesn't adhere, or appears much thicker than elsewhere).
By doing this you can avoid setting up a multi-hour print only to discover a 'bad corner' or some such.
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling
--- |
thread-5140 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5140 | Using KISSlicer from command line on Linux? | 2017-12-17T09:28:33.640 | # Question
Title: Using KISSlicer from command line on Linux?
Is there a way to use KISSlicer from the Linux command line?
Or convert KISSlicer settings/profile to Slic3r/CuraEngine?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Apparently you require a PRO license for using the command line interface.
As of version 1.6 the following command line options are implemented:
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, g-code, slic3r
--- |
thread-6279 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6279 | Very old 3D Printer, which brand or type is this? | 2018-07-04T16:54:07.093 | # Question
Title: Very old 3D Printer, which brand or type is this?
I just received an old 3D printer from one of my school teachers. I have no idea whatsoever as to which brand it is, no instruction manual attached to it, or any other info about it.
How can I find some information about it?
Some links would be very useful. Remember when giving advice that I know nothing about 3D printers.
This is the printer:
*Backside*
*Front*
*The X-axis stepper*
*The electronics board*
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is an old 3D printer that looks a lot like the Mendel or a simpler remix of the Mendel (the Prusa Mendel). I think this is a Mendel you have obtained, it was released in October 2009.
This is a printer type from the early days, a lot about these printers can be found now that you know the type. These old types can be constructed from printed parts and hardware store materials. Nowadays, metals like steel and aluminium sheets or aluminium profiles are more commonly used.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Here are some further details on:
* The control board, and;
* The stepper motors
## Control board
The electronics board has this marking:
```
EJE Electronics Gubbels Engineering
```
The serial number is `0070-003`
According to this site Xinchejian First Mendel V2 Reprap the board is:
> Gen6 Electronics, with AT Mega 644p processor (PCB EJE Electronics, Gubbels Engineering - mendel-parts.com)
It seems to be this board (the serial numbers match):
Information on this board can be found here: Generation 6 Electronics:
> Generation 6, or Gen6, can be described as a dedicated, Plug-&-Play, single board solution for FFF/FDM 3D Printers. It is designed to be professionally manufactured, with many small surface mount components, as opposed to Generation 7 which is designed to be printed on a Mendel(among other design goals).
>
> Another major difference with Gen6 electronics is that they use Texas Instruments DRV8811 chips to drive the stepper motors. This means they require firmware modifications from the normal Polulu-based electronics which use Allegro A4983 chips.
It goes on to say:
> **Benefits of this Design**
>
> * These electronics are a single board solution, so you don't need all those cables and one thick sheet and 4 reprap parts less.
> * However, the thick sheet does add a fair amount of rigidity. @$@#?? the bottom thick sheet (big one) doesnt add much rigidity, the front one is used for stiffness of the frame, not the bottom one.
> * It has a standard USB connection (USB A\>B cable needed)
> * It uses micro-stepping (1/8) for quieter operation.
> * It is cheaper than for example Makerbot's version of the RepRap Generation 3 electronics.
> * It uses small standard Molex connectors for motors, heater, and optos.
> * The pcb of the optos are integrated, so you only need the optos on cables with 5way Molex connectors
>
> **Hardware Features**
>
> * on-board USB-RS232 convertor
> * Integrated hardware for driving one extruder (stepper, heater and thermistor)
> * RS485 bus connector with the possibility to link through the extruder step and dir signals
> * Integrated hardware for driving H21LOB or TCST2103 slotted optosensors
> * High input voltage range: 12-24Vdc
> * Use of standard connectors with easy and clean installation
> * Debug LEDs for power, communication and heater output
> * Reset button
>
> **Specifications**
>
> * Dimensions 110x60mm
> * Mounting grid: 100x50mm (4x M3)
> * Input voltage 12-24Vdc
> * On-board controller: ATmega 644p (Atmel Corp.)
> * RS485 connector: RJ45
> * Heat output: MOSFET output, 4A
> * Thermistors input: 100K thermistor
There is a lot more information on that page, including information about the power supply, USB, End stops, Heaters, Motors, Firmware, etc. I suggest that you read it fully, in order to understand the board's functionality.
## Stepper Motors
The stepper's model number can be seen here:
The stepper's model number is `SY42STH47-1683B`,
which is a *NEMA-17 High Torque Hybrid Stepper Motor*, with these specifications:
* Step angle: 1.8°
* Number of phase: 2
* Rated voltage: 2.8 V
* Rated current: 1.68 A
* Holding torque: 4.4 kg/cm
This would be, at least, part of the datasheet:
Here are a couple of links, should you need replacements (~€17):
This stepper motor is also listed on the RepRapWiki - NEMA 17 page:
```
Model Holding Torque Rated voltage Shaft Step angle Motor length Rated current Inductance
SY42STH47-1684B 43.1 N·cm 2.8 V Ø 5 mm double 1.8° 48 mm n/a n/a
```
# Answer
> 1 votes
As far as I can see on the pictures - the main board shall be capable to upload Marlin software and run smoothly.
If you connect power and PC/Mac over the USB connection, then using Pronterface you can validate mechanical movements of the printer.
As the rods looks a bit dusty - please clean them with a soft cloth and degreaser to avoid jamming.
If you have any issues you could flash a new version of the firmware - please use this answer, to the question, How to upload firmware to reprap printer?, as a guide to how to upload firmware to the printer.
---
Tags: troubleshooting
--- |
thread-6289 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6289 | How is the E argument calculated for a given G1 command? | 2018-07-05T17:35:22.243 | # Question
Title: How is the E argument calculated for a given G1 command?
I'm working on building a tool to generate G-code (a simpler slicer), and I'm trying to calculate how much filament should be extruded per movement.
Is there a standard calculation for this? Something like:
```
layer height * flow % * extruder diameter * distance
```
How does Ultimaker Cura calculate this?
# Answer
> 11 votes
Basically, all movements are (small) straight lines, the volume of a straight line is easily calculated as you already guessed.
To calculate the volume to be extruded you multiply the following parameters:
* the layer height *(h)*
* flow modifier (e.g. as percentage) *(SF)*
* extruder nozzle diameter *(d<sub>n</sub>)* (or extruder line width if different from nozzle diameter)
* distance of the straight line *(l)*
With this volume you can calculate how much filament you need to extrude. To get the length (thus the length defined by the `E` parameter), divide the obtained volume by surface area of your used filament by:
* π * (filament radius)<sup>2</sup> or alternatively π /4 * (filament diameter)<sup>2</sup> = (π /4 * d<sub>f</sub><sup>2</sup>)
To sum up, the value of E is given by:
$$ E\_{value} = \frac{h \times {SF} \times d\_{n} \times l}{\frac{\pi}{4}d\_{f}^2} = \frac{4 \times h \times {SF} \times d\_{n} \times l}{\pi \times d\_{f}^2} $$
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, extrusion
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thread-6291 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6291 | Anet A8 (Prusa i3) Power Supply Fuse | 2018-07-06T00:02:36.563 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 (Prusa i3) Power Supply Fuse
A little backstory to help you understand the situation. I put the 3D printer together and turned it on and everything seemed fine until I started printing. It didn't even get the first layer down when the screen reset and so did the print. I didn't think anything of it, I just went back and tried again, but this time right when I pressed start, the fuse blew.
I have done some research on the issue and haven't had any luck besides recommendations for putting in a secondary fuse before the power supply (which I will be doing in the near future). As for now though, my plan is to just replace the power supply fuse if possible. I went to the hardware store and picked up a Bussmann T5AL/250V fuse (photo attached below) and before I put it in, I just want to make sure this is the correct fuse and I'm not going to kill the entire printer this time.
*Picture showing the internals of the power supply unit:*
*Picture of the fuse I bought:*
Any and all help is very much appreciated because as you might expect, I'm not too happy with the printer so far.
# Answer
> 4 votes
The fuse rating is same as described on the board - so that shall be no issue with it.
**My main concern is why the fuse is down?**
Was there a short-circuit? As this is mains fuse - that suggest a big-bang, so, please check carefully hot-end and bed heater connections before restarting the device, to avoid replacing another fuse.
# Answer
> 1 votes
To add to the answer of *@profesor79* (which you **absolutely need to address first** (find the cause why it blew); else the fuse might blow again), you might be interested in installing fuse clamps. As *@fred\_dot\_u* mentions:
> use caution when soldering leads to the fuse that you do not de-solder the internal fuse from the caps
is that if you incorrectly solder the fuse, you might de-solder the caps, soldering the clamps is easier.
*Example of fuse clamp:*
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Tags: anet-a8, switching-power-supply
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thread-6293 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6293 | Anet A2 3D printer suddenly will not home X and Y | 2018-07-06T06:07:24.030 | # Question
Title: Anet A2 3D printer suddenly will not home X and Y
I have been using my Anet A2 for about a year. A few problems but none that I haven't been able to resolve. Today it suddenly stopped auto homing.
Using the position commands I can advance the X and Y positively but not negatively (after I manually re-position the carriages before turning the printer on). Also the Y stepper motor makes an unusual noise and it will over advance the Y axis. This behavior was preceded by a feed fault. The print started fine but the stepper motor stopped feeding shortly after the print started.
I am printing from an SD card as I always have. I changed SD cards thinking it might be a connection problem and I checked the G-code and all the commands including the E commands seem to be there. I have checked all the electrical connections - they seem to be fine.
Any suggestions to solve this?
# Answer
I have experienced this a few times, usually this is related to the end stops.
If your end stops are somehow triggered (e.g. short circuit or cable broken; depending on the setup), the steppers will not home (as they think they are at the limits already) and only advance forward. Please look into the end stops of X and Y. Use a multi-meter to measure them and trigger them manually.
Alternatively hook up your printer to your computer with a USB cable and download a printer utility/application that can interact with the printer (e.g. Pronterface, Repetier-host, OctoPrint, etc.) and go to the terminal interface and send the M119 instruction to see the status of the end stops.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Please check connections to the `Y` stepper first. You could replace cable from 'X' axis to test the connection.
The noise from stepper mostly means a disconnected pin (broken connection), an obstacle on the path (check and clean if any) and a worse-case-scenario a broken stepper driver, so you could swap steppers (just by connecting the cable) to see where is the reason. If 'Y' stepper works fine when connected to another axis slot (excluding extruder ones) then driver need a replacement.
> 2 votes
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Tags: extrusion, axis, anet-a2
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thread-1258 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1258 | HDPE as the body of a 3-D Printer? | 2016-06-03T17:56:37.480 | # Question
Title: HDPE as the body of a 3-D Printer?
I've been working on my own DIY 3-D printer recently, and I've been trying to experiment a little with different materials for the body. Someone suggested using HDPE (high-density polyethylene), since it works well on a CNC machine, which would make creating a number of prototypes easy. I know HDPE can also be used for filament, but I've never tried it before. Does anybody have any input on HDPE, or other potential materials for the body? I'm trying to avoid using wood, as I've had some poor experiences with it.
# Answer
I've used what is commonly described as UHMW-PE, aka, Ultra-high Molecular Weight Polyethylene for various projects. You may know this material is often used in cutting boards, as it cleans easily and doesn't cut easily.
it does machine in a manner similar to aluminum, although the tool should be cooled/lubricated to prevent a build-up of melted plastic on the cutting edges. You can get away without coolant or lubricant if cutting speeds are slow and the swarf is cleared away from the cutter.
I'd not considered such a material for constructing a 3d printer, as it's expensive, but I've also not compared the prices to equivalent sizes of aluminum.
I'd consider that the use in a 3d printer would be a good substitute for lexan, as one can tighten the bolts without fear of cracking. For bolts subject to rotation or vibration, self-locking nuts are a good idea. If you have use of a broach, cutting out a pocket for the nuts would be easily accomplished.
I have downloaded the plans for the open-source 3d printer known as DICE, which calls for aluminum, but the pricing I've found was excessive for the right quantities. I think I'll explore the same bill of materials in HDPE or UHMW-PE (which may be different names for the same substance).
Equally useful to know is that the material is very slippery, effectively self-lubricating under the right conditions. Unfortunately, for a 3d printer application, I don't believe the self-lubricating part would work for carriages but might be fun to try with linear slides.
It is not as stiff as aluminum, so where stiffness is needed and not provided by the architecture, a thicker piece may be indicated. I can just barely bend with my fingers a piece of 3 mm (1/8") a small amount, but cannot do so for aluminum.
Here's the result of a quick search for UHMWPE: https://www.interstateplastics.com/Uhmw-Natural-Virgin-Sheet-UHMNV~~SH.php?thickness=0.125&dim2=12&dim3=24 which gives a price for 1/8" white sheet 24 x 12" as US\\$ 26.06 while the black version is available only as thin as 1/4" for about US$ 28.00
The equivalent size in aluminum 6061T6 at onlinemetals.com is about US\\$ 3.00 more expensive. That is lower than I expected, skewing the idea farther away from UHMWPE than one might hope. The equivalent for 1/4" is almost US\\$ 60, quite a bit higher.
It would appear that if you need the thicker stuff, the price is better for plastic, not so good for the aluminum.
> 4 votes
# Answer
The main consideration when building the body/frame of a 3D printer is the stiffness. The stiffer the material, the less the frame will deform under load, and the more accurate and repeatable your results will be.
UHMW has a Tensile Modulus of Elasticity around 120,000 psi (http://www.polytechindustrial.com/products/plastic-stock-shapes/uhmw-polyethylene)
Aluminium has a Modulus of Elasticity around 10,000,000 psi (Mott, Applied Strength of Materials, 5th Edition, depends on the specific alloy)
Aluminium is around 100 times stiffer than UHMW.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I've tried this material (8 mm thickness) for a Prusa i3 clone of my own design but needed to abandon using it as it doesn't allow to be cut by laser easily on my friends laser cutting machine (not a hobby laser cutting machine, it is his business).
HDPE requires lower speed than cutting Plexiglas or Acrylic resulting in more heat input and a small top cut and a large bottom cut width leaving the edges far from being straight.
> 1 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, printer-building, hdpe
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thread-6298 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6298 | POM filament not sticking to the build plate? | 2018-07-06T11:30:53.763 | # Question
Title: POM filament not sticking to the build plate?
In the creation of the process of printing my own bearings to reduce noise, minimize play/tolerances and size the bearings to the actual size of the application, I obtained a spool of Polyoxymethylene (POM) or also known as Acetal or Delrin.
This polymer is a thermoplastic polymer that is frequently used in engineering precision parts that require high stiffness, low friction and dimensional stability. It has been chosen for these material properties to be used as bearing material for linear guide rails.
*This image shows an example of the application of customized igus® bearing that is as long as the housing part it is going to fit in:*
Prints frequently get knocked over as it does not stick well.
How do I get POM filament to stick to the build plate?
# Answer
> 12 votes
Great material but very hard to print as it does not stick easy to the build plate as it has a low friction coefficient to grip onto the heated bed. Also, the material sets quite fast, once the filament leaves the nozzle, it soon hardens so you need to be careful with retraction and Z-hop (leaving small peaks that will be hit later by the nozzle knocking over your print).
My experience with printing this material is based on printing with an Ultimaker 3 Extended (on glass) using a modified material profile (based on Nylon). It is printed at 240 °C (+5 °C for the first layer), no usage of the part cooling fan (if you do use cooling, the layers will not adhere well), a heated bed temperature of 80 °C, and a slow printing speed of 40 mm/s (20 mm/s for the first and second layer).
*Ultimaker 3 Extended with printed POM bearing:*
First thing I learned is to use quite large brim's (the image above shows a rather small one for this short bearing, for the longer bearings the brim size was more than doubled, e.g. 20 mm), brims enlarge the surface area so that there is more material that grabs hold of the heated bed. Also ensure to get it to stick long enough is heating the bed to 80 °C after smearing ABS juice (ABS dissolved in acetone) and spraying a PVA based spray over the dried ABS juice layer (3DLAC has been used, but other hairsprays or even gluesticks may work as well, as long as there is PVA in it). The temperature of 80 °C is chosen as this is the temperature where my PVA spray has the most tack/sticky-ness.
Other solutions like heating the bed up to 110 °C using 3DLAC or specifically designed sprays for higher temperature like e.g. Dimafix did not work well for me.
Note that complete infill may also give problems as filling out the whole surface area sometimes creates excess material that curls up, which is an easy target to be hit by the nozzle on the next layer.
*This image shows an example of using the printed customized igus® POM bearing that is as long as the mount height:*
*Collection of POM printed bearings:*
*Another application of POM bearings:*
*CoreXY hot end carriage*
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Tags: filament, heated-bed, adhesion, pom
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thread-6307 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6307 | Artefacts when printing parallel to X axis | 2018-07-06T15:56:34.213 | # Question
Title: Artefacts when printing parallel to X axis
If you can help me with troubleshooting the artefact shown in the attached photo that would be great. It only happens when I print the Benchy parallel to the X axis and when I print parallel to Y axis it prints just fine.
Notes:
* 3D printer: TronXY X1
* Filament: PLA
* Extruder temp: 195°C, 200°C, 205°C - doesn't matter same results.
* Slicer: Ideamaker
# Answer
I have a TronXY X1 myself. This kind of artifacts appear along the X-Axis as it is a cantilever design - and if not properly secured, will start to osctilate when moving sharply. This can be fixed in several ways:
* print slower. By making the movement changes less abrupt, the oscilation can be reduced.
* stiffen the X on the Z. Often, the X1 has a somewhat wobbly X-Axis. To fix this, someone calling themselves FabianFriethjoph did design a 'bracket' that is intended to keep the wheels aligned and under a little tension. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275654
> 5 votes
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Tags: print-quality, tronxy-x1
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