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thread-6640 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6640 | Am I allowed to publish a 3d scan of a statue/thing I bought? | 2018-08-12T20:36:21.980 | # Question
Title: Am I allowed to publish a 3d scan of a statue/thing I bought?
I bought a buddha statue and I would like to scan it using photogrammetry and publish the result.
**Am I allowed to do that?**
Is this the same like scanning a book and publishing it? Sketchfab on the other hand is full of 3d models of commercial products.
# Answer
If the design was made from an artist and is not public domain, than you should not upload that scan without the (written) permission of the creator of the design. Espacially a scan of a decorative object will likely be protected, so costumers buy the original instead of printing itself or buy a printed version. If you would design a deco object and sell copies of it, you also don't want that others just scan it and print it.
> 6 votes
# Answer
First thing to do is get a lawyer skilled in copyright law as applicable where you live. It's going to depend in no small part on whether your scanned model is considered a copy or a transformative work of art.
Personally, I see scanning an object as similar to photographing it (or sketching it). Lots of art objects, or for that matter personal items such as a photo of a living person, are protected by copyright; others aren't. If I made the laws, which I sadly don't :-) , I would consider a scanned, printed object to be in the same boat as a sketch -- has to be demonstrably transformative and all that.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: scanning
--- |
thread-6629 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6629 | What is the "Detailed format classification" of the ISO 6983 (G-Code spec) | 2018-08-11T15:43:00.390 | # Question
Title: What is the "Detailed format classification" of the ISO 6983 (G-Code spec)
For developing a CNC system, I am reading the "ISO 6983-1:2009".
In it, there are several references to what they call "Detailed format classification" which I struggle to understand:
> A classification of the data in a block shall be used to specify the programming detail for a system and machine configuration. This is called the detailed format classification and is described in Annex C.
...
> Zero omission shall be specified in the detailed format classification (see Annex C).
...
> The number of digits shall be designated by the detailed format classification ( see Annex C).
...
It seem this "Detailed format classification" is sort of a definition of the machine on which the program will run. But in this case, I do not understand why this is something part of the program and not some values of the control system.
My question is: What exactly is this "Detailed format classification"?
* Is it part of the program?
* What is it purpose?
# Answer
> 4 votes
This is simply the formalised definition of the syntax, so that a parser can be written to interpret any legal G-code. Without this, there is ambiguity - not in the general operation, but in the bounds of what is 'legal' and what should be rejected.
Taking the example `X+053`, this is not a position of 53 units, it is:
* Address `X`
* Sign is required (in this implementation)
* Leading zeros can be ommitted
* Up to 5 orders of magnitude before the decimal
* Up to 3 digits of precision after the decimal
This means that X can range from +99999.999 to -99999.999 - an interpretation which matches the verbiage at the bottom of the page.
As hinted at in the text, it is *possible* to use various fixed precision number systems (think using integer milimetres rather than decimal metres), and also to anchor at the most significant bit, so `001` could represent `00100.000`. It may help to remember that these specifications were designed in the days of dedicated hardware rather than general purpose computers, when the standard portable storage medium held ~600 kB, and relate to actual machines that had been developed long before that.
---
Tags: g-code, cnc
--- |
thread-6657 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6657 | Export firmware as a .hex | 2018-08-13T20:18:42.070 | # Question
Title: Export firmware as a .hex
Because `.hex` files can be installed without any need of an Arduino (serving as an ISP) to flash the firmware on Creality machines I was wondering, if firmware compiled via some other means (for example the Repetier firmware or Arduino) could be exported as a `.hex` file.
# Answer
## Current versions of Arduino IDE
Use the menu option in the Arduino IDE:
**Sketch****Export Compiled Binary**
See post #6 from the thread How to get hex file from arduino files ?:
> Well, since it was bumped it's worth mentioning there is a new way to do this added in Arduino IDE 1.6.5:
>
> * Sketch \> Export Compiled Binary
> * If you are doing this with an example then you will be prompted to save the sketch in another location.
> * Wait until the sketch has finished compiling.
> * Sketch \> Show Sketch Folder
> * The .hex file will be in the sketch folder
Here is a screenshot for OS X:
>
There is no need to fully compile, a simple verify will suffice. From post #10:
> Reopen Arduino, and open a sketch of your choice (use the Examples-\>Digital-\>Blink if you have no other sketches). Hit the Verify button to compile the sketch. Now, navigate to the build.path folder. You should see a bunch of files including one with a .hex extension.
---
## Older versions of Arduino IDE
If using an older version of the Arduino IDE, from post #12:
> Try this if using an older version of Arduino
>
> Taking out HEX file from Arduino in 3 simple steps
1. Open Arduino IDE
2. **File****Preferences** menu
>
3. Find "Show verbose output during " and check the "compilation" box
4. Locate the `preferences.txt` file and open it
5. Add the following line (this is the path to the directory where the hexfile will be stored):
```
build.path=C:\Users\<username>\Desktop\hexfile
```
6. Change the following line
```
export.delete_target_folder=true
```
to
```
export.delete_target_folder=false
```
7. Quit the Arduino IDE and restart it.
8. Now when you compile, the directory specified in `build.path` will contain the `.hex` file (along with other files which can be ignored)
> 4 votes
---
Tags: firmware, repetier, arduino
--- |
thread-6399 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6399 | Recalibrating Home-position | 2018-07-14T18:47:23.570 | # Question
Title: Recalibrating Home-position
I got myself the Ender 3. The Home position is about 1 mm left and 2 mm in front of the front left corner. Now, the hotend center axis is 11 mm from the carrier plate with the "Mk 10" cooler mounted right onto a pair of 5 mm pegs that are part of the plate. As I want to change to an e3D v6, which has a diameter of 22 mm, I will have to move out some distance (ca. 13 mm) to the current Z axis. This means, that any Y command will be off by this distance.
**How do I reconfigure the Home position to have an offset to the 0-positions gained from the limit switches?**
According to Repetier Host it runs on **Marlin 1.0**. Creality offers the firmware on their website as a **.hex** file - which is hard to edit.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Greenonline and I spent this evening hacking/reverse engineering the Ender3 to solve this. Greenonline also wrote about this in his blog.
## Step 1 - Get the Firmware
To do this, there are basically two ways:
1. Find the a ready-to-use firmware
2. Make your own
Variant 1 would be to use the pre-supplied .hex files from Creality or some other manufacturer. Variant 2 means writing the settings yourself or using Repetier firmware to write the files for you. In the case of the Ender 3, the chip used sadly disqualified Repetier firmware, so writing it yourself is the only option.
To write the firmware yourself or using Repetier firmware, you need the old settings. To get these, connect the printer via USB, connect it with a software like Repetier host and send `M503` to get all the settings.
Now, either hack those into Repetier firmware or use a blank `Marlin.ino` and the Arduino IDE to customise it. In the later case, you need to put the folder `Marlin-?.?.X.ZIP/Marlin-?.?.X/Marlin` into the `Arduino` folder in Documents (Windows) or Home (Mac). Now open the `Marlin.ino` in Arduino IDE. Set up the new firmware with these base settings or adjust as needed.
## Step 2 - Adjust
Now that we have our Configuration files (in the end we pretty much skipped step 1 and grabbed a fitting (**German!**) one from Christian, a German maker also known as "Chaos-Drucker"), we need to first adjust them as needed to fit our needs and then compile them properly (next step!). As an alternative (**English!**) base to work with, the TH3D firmware is also available, provided by the Hooglands and team at TH3D.
So, let's open your `Marlin.ino` with arduino and find the `X_MIN_POS` (`CTRL`+`F` \> `X_MIN_POS` \> Search all sketches).
In the configurations we grabbed the sketch file `Configuration.h` contains lines 786-789 *(might differ)*:
```
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -10
#define Y_MIN_POS -15
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
```
Adjust these till the wanted position is achieved - Repetier Host can help here to determine the right position.
## Step 3 - Compile
The hardest step with the Ender3 was to get the code to actually compile, as it uses an ATmega1284P 16Bit which isn't supported by Arduino natively. While the MightyCore supports this chip, it doesn't compile with this hardware library. However, Christian did figure out that the Sanguino set to an ATmega 1284P 16bit does work. These belong as *extracted folders* into the `Arduino/hardware` folder, usually in your Documents (if you use Windows) or Home (on mac). Now, we did set `Tools>Board:> Sanguino` and `Tools>Processor:>ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)`
It was also mandatory to have the U8glib.h for Arduino installed. To do this, download the zip from github, then in the Arduino software `Sketch>Include Library>Add .ZIP Library...` and choose the whole zip repository to auto install.
With these settings we were able to compile the settings.
## Step 4 - Getting it on the machine
Most people would expect to read about bootloaders and flashing now, and indeed that is an option. But as I had just figured out how to install firmware from .hex and so I wondered: Can't we make .hex files from our settings? And yes, Arduino supports this.
So, in Arduino IDE press `Ctrl`+`Alt`+`S` (or `Sketch > Export Compiled Binary`). This will result in two files:
* `Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex`
* `Marlin.ino.with_bootloader.sanguino.hex`
Of these two, the `Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex` is the interesting one for "direct flashing" via CURA. Use this file with the process starting at Step 2 here or use one of Greenonline's solutions to get the firmware flashed - no bootloader needed!
# Answer
> 10 votes
When homing the printer, the hot end carriage will be instructed to hit the (mechanical or optical) end stops. From this point a well configured firmware knows where to find the origin of the heat bed.
For the printer to know the origin of the bed, offsets are defined in the firmware from the end stop locations to the actual origin of the heat bed.
E.g. in Marlin Firmware this is defined by
```
#define X_MIN_POS -35 ; move the head 35 mm to the right to place the
; nozzle at X = 0
#define Y_MIN_POS -8 ; move the head 8 mm to the back (or the plate
; forward) to place the nozzle at Y = 0
```
When you change the hardware (e.g. carriage), you need to re-calibrate the movement from the end stop location to the origin of the bed. Note that any arbitrary point on the heat bed can be used to re-calibrate this. E.g. the center of the bed can also be used, and is frequently much more easy to re-calibrate as the heated beds usually have rounded corners or are slightly larger than the actual print area (e.g. I have a 300 x 300 mm heat bed that actually measures 315 x 315 mm). Printing a large square on the heat bed will therefore give you a good impression of the offset of the nozzle due to your new carriage design.
Note that, if you cannot or will not flash new firmware, an alternative solution exists to set new incremental offset values using the `M206` command **IF** your current firmware supports this.
A detailed description to re-calibrate is found in answer How to center my prints on the build platform? or in external link Bed center calibration.
# Answer
> 4 votes
*Following on from 0scar's answer*
---
To change or obtain your EEPROM settings you need to open Repetier Host (for Linux or Windows, v2.1.3 - the OSX version I tried, v1.1.0, didn't seem to have this functionality).
### To change existing settings
From How to make changes to the EEPROM data. Apparently there is an EEPROM editor available (in Repetier Host). From this post:
> If you see it in eeprom editor just change them. If it is repetier-firmware based it will store changes in eeprom on pressing "ok".
### To retrieve existing settings
This post from retrieval of existing settings..., shows how:
> To copy eeprom data:
>
> * Connect with host
> * Open eeprom settings
> * Select export eeprom settings. That saves all data in a epr file and you can later use import eepsom settings to rewrite it.
An example of the resulting file is shown in the question, Help with Repetier firmware variables (Dimension Dual Delta - J Group Robotics), a sample of which I have included below:
```
<Repetier-Firmware-EEPROM>
<epr pos="1028" type="0" value="0">Language</epr>
<epr pos="75" type="2" value="115200">Baudrate</epr>
<epr pos="129" type="3" value="32.752">Filament printed [m]</epr>
<epr pos="125" type="2" value="21644">Printer active [s]</epr>
<epr pos="79" type="2" value="0">Max. inactive time [ms,0=off]</epr>
```
---
However, you would appear to have to be running Repetier firmware for these two solutions to work, and not Marlin (but I may be wrong).
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, marlin, homing, knowledgebase
--- |
thread-6667 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6667 | Wear resistant nozzles | 2018-08-14T12:21:52.117 | # Question
Title: Wear resistant nozzles
I recently purchased some glow-in-the-dark PLA filament (just "because"). Being new to 3D printing, I didn't realize you shouldn't run this type of filament through a standard brass nozzle and should replace it using a "wear resistant" type nozzle. This is true of carbon fiber type filament as well.
My questions are:
* What types of nozzle material are considered "wear resistant" and are some materials better than others?
* Can I use this type of nozzle all the time (ie: are there any downsides for regular use)?
* What types of filament should you use a wear resistant nozzle with?
# Answer
> 6 votes
E3D have a blog post on the subject of hardened nozzles. The common abrasive materials are carbon fibre, wood impregnated filament (or any other particulate fill), and some pigments. The blog describes that as little as 250g of the more abrasive filaments can wreck a brass nozzle.
For wear resistance, different manufacturers will have different options. Stainless steel is a little harder than brass, and hardened steel is a big step forward. If you fancy spending more money, aluminium oxide (i.e. Ruby) is an option.
The downside is printability and cost. Specifically thermal conductivity of brass (or copper) is very good when compared to steel. However, this may not be the limiting factor for your printing unless you're running a very large machine. The various materials may also give different friction/wetting performance which can affect jams.
Depending on the printer and the type of hardened nozzle, it probably makes sense to avoid swapping between hardened and standard nozzles most of the time.
Hardened nozzles cost between 3 and 20 times what you will pay for a branded brass nozzle (and arguably a bag of no-name brass nozzles can be treated as near enough free disposables in comparison).
---
Tags: nozzle
--- |
thread-6671 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6671 | Setting custom x/y bed bounds for Anet A8/marlin | 2018-08-14T23:55:20.540 | # Question
Title: Setting custom x/y bed bounds for Anet A8/marlin
I have an Anet A8 that I just flashed with the latest Marlin firmware (1.1.9). I'm sending prints to my printer with Ultimaker Cura via OctoPrint.
I have affixed a PEI surface to my bed that's about 10 mm smaller in each direction than the full size of the bed (that is, I lose about 5 mm on each side of the bed). This hasn't been a huge problem as usually I account for this myself and just make sure there's lots of room on each side of a print, but having upgraded my firmware, I'd like to take advantage of Marlin's bi-linear bed-levelling. Unfortunately, several of the points it chooses are outside the bounds of my PEI surface and so it's impossible to get a decent setting for those points.
What's the "correct" way to configure Marlin to know that my bed size is actually smaller than it thinks it is? Do I need to additionally adjust settings in Ultimaker Cura and/or OctoPrint?
# Answer
> 6 votes
As you just flashed your own Marlin, you probably have the `marlin.ino` and its associated files in the **Arduino IDE** set for your Processor and board and know how to work with them to some degree. This is *just the short version* **where** to find **what** you need to change the bed size, if the marlin.ino is based on the **marlinfw-release**.
# Changing "home"
In `Configuration.h` there should be a set of lines that reads akin to this:
```
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
```
Usually it is faster to use `Ctrl`+`F` and then typing in `X_MIN_POS` and adding the hook in front of *Search all Sketch Tabs* and then moving through all the finds till the right one pops up. This not only brings you right to the lines you want to alter, but also covers up the bases in case the distribution you work with did put the movement limits into a different location like `Configruration_adv.h`.
# Changing Bed Size
Alter these minimum positions and make sure that the Maximum positions (usually just after them) to fit the maximum of the bed.
If you reduced your bed size, you also might need to change `X_BED_SIZE` and `Y_BED_SIZE`, which (in the marlin.ino) is in the same `Configuration.h` \- I found it to preceede the Travel limits:
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 200
#define Y_BED_SIZE 200
```
Adjust these as needed to fit the new sizing.
# Hint: Getting the Values for Adjusting
For finding the adjusted values, I have had good experiences using Repetier Host on *Manual Control* to move the nozzle (lifted 1mm to prevent any accidents) into the correct XY-position and taking this position as adjustments for the minimum positions. Finding your personal settings is a bit of a trial and error still, *so take your time*.
# Finishing up
Now, recompile the marlin.ino (the checkmark in the top left) to check for errors and flash the new firmware it.
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8, firmware
--- |
thread-6661 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6661 | How to build a cheap (but safe) laser engraver with spare parts | 2018-08-13T23:26:30.287 | # Question
Title: How to build a cheap (but safe) laser engraver with spare parts
I would love to start a small engraving business without having to purchase expensive hardware.
Using scrap parts at home, or parts from broken CD players, are there any ways to make a laser engraver at home? My cousin managed to make one of his own from scraps.
# Answer
If you do not have knowledge about the electronics then consider buying a cheap etching machine instead.
# Build
Take a look on https://hackaday.com/ and search for laser engravers.
I have found following articles in few seconds:
# Cheap laser engravers
And this one is about 2018 list of laser cutters/engravers: 15 Best Laser Cutters, Laser Engravers & AIO Machines of 2018. It lists machines around 100$
* Meterk Laser Engraver ($125)
* NEJE DK-8-KZ ($70)
* QIILU Mini Laser Engraver ($130)
* SuperCarver K2 ($160)
# Safety
Laser could damage your eyes (imagine laser reflection or if the machine falls from table when it's working). Take a look on wikipedia.
The best option is to use *acrylic cover* in same color as your laser, so you can observe the etching process and the laser beam is always blocked. For example take a look on orange cover of Formlabs Form 2 3d printer (it uses laser for printing).
Another protection is to wear *laser protection glasses*. Again the glasses must have same color as your laser.
Using laser for cutting or engraving means to burn material away. You should have good ventilation in the room.
Buy a *smoke detector* if you use cheap electronics with higher power consumption.
> -2 votes
# Answer
I have a printer and a diode laser head which will etch aluminum for under $4k, but you're going to have to manage potentially noxious fumes based on what material you're lasering. It's safe if used safely: the focal distance is 15-20mm from the lens, but all present should wear PPE.
Note: I work for Hyrel3D.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: printer-building, laser
--- |
thread-5621 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5621 | RAMPS won't PID tune and shows unreal temps | 2018-03-12T05:31:51.617 | # Question
Title: RAMPS won't PID tune and shows unreal temps
About two days ago, I started seeing that my hotend was heating up erratically. I first noticed this while printing a part in PETG and the temp jumped to 260 °C. I shut down the printer at that time and first started checking the hardware. I noticed that the E3D V6 thermistor had been tightened too much. I disassembled the entire hotend, cleaned everything and then reassembled everything. I thought to retune the hotend and when I tried tuning it at 240 °C.
This is where the strange behavior occurs. The hotend steadily climbed up till about 200 °C. After that it just went nuts. I started seeing unreal temps such as 646 °C and such. At this point I thought the MEGA might be at fault. I replaced it and the hotend (an E3D V6 clone). This had the screw on glass thermistor. Again the same erratic behavior and unreal temp readings.
What could be wrong here? What am I missing? Can this be the heater cartridge?
# Answer
One of the thermistor wires had come loose from the crimp ferrules. I re-crimped it and it works fine now.
> 3 votes
# Answer
This can come from several sources:
# Hardware
The thermistor or its connections might be damaged, and the fault is only observable when the hotend is hot or moved to a certain area. Start by checking the wiring! You may be able to repair a bad connection easily, but depending what was broken, you may need to replace something. In some cases squishing a thermistor cartridge too much can destroy the internals, so a replacement is needed.
A mainboard failure is more likely to just show a static temperature, and a heater failure would show as maybe not getting past a certain point.
# Firmware
If it had not worked before or you changed the firmware, the firmware should also be a suspect. The firmware can 'fail' when using the wrong thermistor type/table which can result in a very big offset or bad slope, resulting in wrong or unaccurate readings.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: ramps-1.4, hotend, thermistor
--- |
thread-3265 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3265 | Thick wall or solid part of an otherwise medium-fill part | 2016-12-24T03:13:41.090 | # Question
Title: Thick wall or solid part of an otherwise medium-fill part
I'm trying to design a camera handle, which will be around 8" long and will have a brass camera thread insert in the end, where the camera will be mounted. (That way, I don't have to screw the camera thread into plastic which will wear out faster.)
If I print the handle normally, the end of the handle won't be solid so I can't solidly put that brass fitting in. If I set the fill in Cura to 100%, the print will take a very long time and will be unnecessarily solid. I only need a centimeter or two at the end to be solid.
Is there a way to get one particular wall in Cura to be very thick (1-2cm) without affecting the other walls? Is there some other way to get a solid chunk in the end of the part?
# Answer
I think you are approaching this wrong. Sounds like you need to design it to have a hollow wall. That said to answer your question no you cannot have your slicer modify prints like that. But it bears mentioning you can set all shells to what ever you want have have a very sparse infill. To you can set vertical shells to 3 or so. Top to 3 bottom to 2 and infill to 7-15% so it will be 93% hollow not counting the 3 layers of solid skin.
Post pics of your design. Or let me know what else I can add. Check out my answer to this other stack overflow question
> 2 votes
# Answer
I'd suggest creating a hollow tube with ~1 to 1.5 mm walls. Then to increase the strength design your own internal structure rather than relying on the slicer to fill the part. This takes longer to model but you can design the strength of your part much better.
Something like this
If you were to then print this with 60 % infill you'll have the strength and also use less material. If you happen to know specifically how your part would be loaded, you could then change the dimensions on that internal cross structure to take the loads better.
> 3 votes
# Answer
There *is* a way to do this in Cura 2:
1. Load in a cube.
2. Place it over the location where you need 100% infill.
3. In the per-object settings (tool on the left of the screen):
* enable **Infill Mesh**, and;
* set **Infill density** to 100 %, and;
* **Wall Thickness** to 0 mm.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I believe the solution is to use more walls in Cura.
Here is a 50mm cylinder with a 20mm hole. I specified 10 walls in Cura.
This should give extra plastic for the screw to bit into, but not take all day to print!
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, infill
--- |
thread-6642 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6642 | How to avoid stringing? | 2018-08-13T00:23:29.873 | # Question
Title: How to avoid stringing?
How can I avoid the irregularities and stringing in the print. Printer Used: Fortus 450mc
Model: PC
Model tip: T10
Support tip: T12SR
Support: SR-100
Slice Height: 0.0050 in
I have printed two objects using Grabcad print (with Insight) 1) Voronoi bear: The voronoi bear has missing layers/unattached layer at its bottom everything else seems OK. I do notice a bit of stringing though. 2) Cylinder with hollow channels: The cylinder has a lot of visible stringing and one of the channels is slightly deformed. Please refer to the attached images.
Please let me know if any additional details are needed.
# Answer
I've been able to reduce stringing by reducing the nozzle temp in 2°C increments until it goes away. You'll also want to increase your retraction settings a bit.
The problem is caused by the plastic being too hot and oozing out of the nozzle - it's a bit too runny.
Search Thingiverse for Heat Towers. You'll need to edit the G-code so that your printer adjusts the nozzle temp at each layer. That will give you a really good indication of the best temperature for the given material.
Keep in mind you'll want to print it for each new brand (and sometimes color) of filament.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: fdm, calibration, print-material
--- |
thread-6685 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6685 | How to install new ATmega firmware via the ISP pins? | 2018-08-16T08:25:40.037 | # Question
Title: How to install new ATmega firmware via the ISP pins?
While uploading .hex firmware directly onto boards that allow this via CURA, this is not always an option for all machines (for lack of a functioning USB-connectable port for example).
On both my TronXY X1 board (Melzi 2.0 V5 with `ATMEGA1284P`) and the Creality Ender 3 (Creality 3D v.1.1.2 with `Δ ATMEL ATMEGA1284P AU 1726`) I spotted these 6 pins labeled `ISP` that are supposed to allow to connect an Arduino or similar to flash firmware. According to the RepRap Wiki, Melzi is a derivative of the Sanguinololu and both are Sanguino Compatible.
After creating the new firmware in **Arduino IDE** and making sure it compiles for the correct chip in the board, how can I use an Arduino Uno or other microcontroller to flash the new firmware **via the ISP** to my printer?
This is asking specifically about ATmega based controller boards, using the Arduino toolchain.
# Answer
Considering AVR based controller boards...
You might not need an additional Arduino, to serve as an ISP. It really depends upon the board. There are basically three scenarios:
1. Controller board which is Arduino based - Arduino Mega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 - *with* a bootloader
2. Controller board which is Arduino based - Arduino Mega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 - *without* a bootloader
3. Controller board which is AVR based board (no separate Arduino board) - as is the case with an Ender-3 and the TronXY board<sup>1</sup> \- *without* a bootloader
Option 1 is the easiest, and you simply upload with the USB cable, directly from the Arduino IDE.
Options 2 and 3 is where you would require an In-circuit Serial Programmer (ISP). Such as a USBasp: USBasp - USB programmer for Atmel AVR controllers
or you can use another Arduino, see Arduino as ISP and Arduino Bootloaders.
An ISP device basically converts the USB to TTL signals (along with a serial protocol (JTAG or derivative)) which then connects to the ICSP<sup>2</sup> interface on the controller board:
### Scenario 1
As stated above, you simply connect the board to the PC/Mac using the USB cable and, within the Arduino IDE, you hit **Upload** \- ensuring that you have the correct **Board** (i.e. Mega2560) and **Port** selected in the **Tools** menu.
### Scenario 2
For the Mega2560 the pins the MOSI, MISO and SCK are broken out on to are:
```
Arduino / Genuino Board MOSI MISO SCK Level
Mega1280 or Mega2560 51 or ICSP-4 50 or ICSP-1 52 or ICSP-3 5V
```
To program the Mega2560 using an Uno, connect as follows:
or using the ISP connector (in this diagram the electrolytic capacitor<sup>3</sup> is not shown):
Take note of the electrolytic capacitor<sup>3</sup> on the programming device:
> The 10 µF electrolytic capacitor connected to RESET and GND of the programming board is needed only for the boards that have an interface between the microcontroller and the computer's USB, like Mega, Uno, Mini, Nano. Boards like Leonardo, Esplora and Micro, with the USB directly managed by the microcontroller, don't need the capacitor.
or using the Mega's ICSP connector, from Atmega bootloader programmer (see original image):
Note D10 is used, not `RESET`<sup>4</sup>
### Scenario 3
So, to use an Arduino Uno on your controller board, which is scenario 3 (an AVR based board, but not an Arduino board per se), you would need to connect the Uno to the ICSP of the controller board like this:
```
ICSP Uno
MOSI D11
MISO D12
SCK D13
GND GND
5V 5V
RESET D10
```
or, like this, from Chaos Drucker - CREALITY ENDER3 MIT MARLIN AUSSTATTEN (see original image):
**There is an error in the image and the red line should go to `D10` and not `D9` as shown**
Note, again, that the `RESET` on the Arduino Uno's ISP connector is **not** used (and Pin 10 is used to connect to the controller's ICSP's `RESET` pin instead)<sup>4</sup>.
### Configure the Arduino IDE
Then in the Arduino IDE you will need to select the Programmer to be used, in this case *Uno as an ISP*, like so:
Once you have connected correctly, and selected the programmer, then you *should* be able to hit compile and upload as usual.
---
### Footnotes
<sup>1</sup> Which *both* use the *same* board - see this answer to What voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?
<sup>2</sup> In case you are wondering, see What's the difference between ICSP vs ISP?:
> The difference between ISP and ICSP is a hyphen.
>
> ISP stands for In-circuit Serial Programming, and ICSP stands for In Circuit Serial Programming.
>
> Any arrangement that allows you to program a microcontroller while it is in a circuit using a serial protocol can be called ISP or ICSP.
See also Wikipedia - In-system programming.
<sup>3</sup> See When using an Arduino as an ISP, is the capacitor required or not?
<sup>4</sup> Why? From Can the Arduino Uno become an AVR programmer and use the ICSP header to program the target board:
> First of all, as configured, the RESET pin can not be used as an output pin. In order to use it as an I/O pin, you would have to program the RSTDISBL fuse. But once you do that, as jippie said, it becomes near-impossible to reprogram your Arduino (if you have the socketed through hole variety of the MCU, you could pull it out and put it into a high voltage programmer; in all other cases, it's effectively impossible).
>
> So in theory, you can use the ICSP header the way you suggest. In practice, it's under almost any conceivable circumstance a terrible idea.
> 7 votes
---
Tags: firmware
--- |
thread-6688 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6688 | MKS board losing power after endstop installation | 2018-08-16T15:00:02.430 | # Question
Title: MKS board losing power after endstop installation
I just bought an MKS gen v1.3, and everything on it works fine except for when I plug in the endstops. My X endstop works perfectly in every endstop outlet, but when I plug in my Z and Y endstops, the entire board loses power. Immediately after I unplug the endstop, the board turns back on. I've had these endstops for a while, so could it just be that the endstops are shot, or could there be something wrong with my board?
I'm using repetier firmware 0.92, as well as the latest release of repetier host software.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Have you tried plugging in the plugging the Z and/or Y end stops into the X position? This could tell you if it's actually the end stops or the board.
EDIT: Also, if the Z and/or Y end stops seem to work just fine in the X position, ensure you have the X position filled and try the other end stops in the Z & Y positions. It may be a case where having multiple positions on the board filled might be causing you an issue. This would point back at the board and not the end stops.
---
Tags: ramps-1.4, reprap, repetier, arduino-mega-2650, endstop
--- |
thread-6687 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6687 | Creality CR-10 Clogs and Underextrusion - Filament at fault? | 2018-08-16T14:07:21.580 | # Question
Title: Creality CR-10 Clogs and Underextrusion - Filament at fault?
I've been printing successfully on my CR-10 for the past year now. I've had issues now and then but have been able to look around the internet and solve them. I've been using some Flashforge white PLA with great results.
Example:
Last week I got a couple of new rolls of filament, black and orange. SinceI tried printing with them, I've got nothing but jams. The white prints fine, however.
I dug around online and found this was happening to my printer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vH\_spN5wyw
So yesterday I opened up my hotend to clean it out and got quite a bit of gunk out:
I also changed my nozzle. I printed some with the old white PLA and printed fine. The moment I switched over to the new orange filament, it jammed after a few layers.
I ensured my nozzle was tightened and then got to measuring the filament. The older white one is 1.75mm in most places with some at 1.73mm.
The new ones that I got are pretty inconsistent - the orange one ranging from 1.68mm to 1.72mm; I found very few places where it was actually 1.75mm. The black one averaged 1.72mm.
So I made the change in my slicer but even then the first layer was visibly underextruding and it jammed soon after. I took apart the hotend and cleaned it out. Now, I put the white one back and its back printing fine.
Should I go ahead and return the filament?
# Answer
Not all filaments are created equal. Even with the very same manufacturer, the addition of colorful pigments can change the needed printing temperature a lot! I have had a white china PLA that was giving ok quality at 200°C, but the same brand's clear PLA only took 195°C to print. My white Kaisertech prints better at the 200°C while orange needs a little more, something about 205°C - this is the same brand and manufacturer mind you. The matte "natural" PLA I have even needs some more heat, 210°C.
As a rule of thumb: **Printing temerature is filament dependant.** Test around (there are temperature tests - use them!) to find the ideal one for each brand and color combo you have.
It is also a goood idea to replace the claps on the Bowden tube, if the plugs appear more often.
> 4 votes
# Answer
From attached pictures I can see that some of the printouts are not sticking enough to the bed (that can be a non-leveled bed).
As you are printing directly on the glass ensure that the area is clean (no fat or other organic substances - clean with alcohol or another grease remover) or use a PVA glue to get better adhesion.
If the Z height is to low it can clog the nozzle, if to high then print will not stick.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: filament, quality, creality-cr-10
--- |
thread-5296 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5296 | Pronterface window question | 2018-01-17T12:35:07.907 | # Question
Title: Pronterface window question
I switched to a Raspberry Pi 3 to use with (Linux) Pronterface for my 3D printer.
This Pi 3 has a 3.5" 320x480 LCD display. When Pronterface is loaded, only part of its window can be seen and some of the UI elements are unreachable. I have the Pronterface source code from GitHub.
Where do I start to shrink the app window?
# Answer
> 3 votes
You can change your Pi's resolution using `raspi-config` or the Raspberry Pi Configuration app.
To use `raspi-config`, access Terminal and run `raspi-config`. Then navigate to `Advanced Options > Resolution`.
If you'd rather use the GUI, open the Raspberry Pi Configuration app and select Resolution from the resultant dialog. This may help with the rendering issues.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, firmware
--- |
thread-962 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/962 | Printer randomly moves to home during printing, then resumes as normal | 2016-04-10T10:31:22.693 | # Question
Title: Printer randomly moves to home during printing, then resumes as normal
During printing, my printer occasionally makes some mystery moves: it will very slowly move either the X or Y axis all the way to the left/front, before very slowly moving back to its original position and resuming the print as normal. I've checked my G-code files, and the moves are definitely not part of the G-code. What could be causing this?
I'm printing from an SD card on a Cartesian printer.
# Answer
> 6 votes
The issue was due to a corrupt SD-card, which was occasionally having some garbage read from it. It turns out that Marlin will try interpret a corrupt move command like `G0 X1q3.54` and still read as many numbers as it can. In this example, it would be interpreted as `G0 X1` rather than (as might have been intended) `G0 X103.54`.
This explains my symptoms perfectly:
* X and Y always moved to (approximately) their home positions, but it was always only one of them (it's quite unlikely that both moves are corrupted).
* Z was not affected because Z moves are much rarer in the G-code (only on layer change) and thus it was very unlikely that a Z move would be affected.
* E was not affected since a request to move E to near 0 would be prevented by Marlin's long extrusion prevention.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Beides a corrupt SD card that stores worng bits, leading to absurd commands, it's also possible that ithers parts in the Creatin of the file are compromised:
This can for example happen if the card is removed during writing - but in this case it should be mostly an incomplete file on importing into an interpreter.
More a random distribution of bad commands would appear if the writing process in itself is faulty, for example if the SD Port is defect or the adapter hast a error. Another way that writing can fail is if the drivers for the SD card adapter/port are corrupted.
To detect a bad file or corrupted card is possible by re-importing the G-Code into a slicer (for example CURA allows this) and look at the tool paths. If any port does this with any card, software is to blame: See if it persists after a driver update (rare!) and a reinstall of the slicer. If it fails in one port but works in a different the port or adapter might bei at fault and might need replacement. If it is endemic to one card, this one is corrupt and to be thrown out. If it is endemic to a single file, overwrite it with a new one - sometimes writing fails for reasons that are almost impossible to understand.
If the file&card are fine but read wrongly at the printer, then the card reader in the printer or the board are to blame.
---
Tags: g-code, marlin
--- |
thread-5093 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5093 | QIDITECH Dual Extruder and PETG | 2017-12-09T14:38:18.940 | # Question
Title: QIDITECH Dual Extruder and PETG
I have just received my QIDITECH printer, I've have ABS, PLA and two reals of PETG. I printed a sample using the clear PETG and this worked find, I didn't have to change any of the default settings.
Today I've tried three times to print a simple model using the black real of PETG. I've created which is essentially just a rectangle, but after a few minutes the extruder starts to drag around filament.
What can I do? The filament is loaded ok, and it starts out ok, but very quickly messes up.
# Answer
It was a while back I created this post, since then I've have numerous problems / learning curves and now I'm very pleased to say I have a printer that prints perfectly and is set-up correctly.
I must say that the support from QidiTech is first class and during my journey I was sent a new extruder assembly, new extruders and also new print matts, all completely free and covered by the warranty.
I have now printed numerous models successfully.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament, petg
--- |
thread-5756 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5756 | 3D scanner data acquisition | 2018-04-05T16:23:24.933 | # Question
Title: 3D scanner data acquisition
I found an old Creaform3D EXAscan laying around at the company I work for, and tried to plug it on a computer to see if it still works.
I discovered that it uses a software called RapidForm for data acquisition, but its license is expired.
I looked in the manufacturer site for drivers or something similar but there isn't anything.
Is there any other software or way to read the data coming from such scanner?
# Answer
> 2 votes
The Creaform EXAscan is according to the manufacturer a laser based machine. This means that it determines data points and their positions by some triangonometry done with a laser, 32.000 times a second, resulting in very high density point clouds. This demands a powerful program to work with.
At some point, your company used Rapidform, which costs a wooping 10 to 30 grand for a license. Other software in this niece are - according to a solidworks thread \- Geomagic and PolyWorks. The gist of the thread seems to be that these "big 3" were the best ones at the market in 2011. However I have no idea if they work together with the given hardware or what the later two cost.
# Answer
> 1 votes
So if the original manufacturer still exists, (which they appear to, and even list your scanner under 'legacy' products) your best chance of getting it working is going to be to contact them directly. Using proprietary hardware WITHOUT the associated proprietary software can range from merely tedious but possible, to outright impossible, depending on the specific company. Oftentimes with tech products like this, the business model isn't about the product itself, but about the license fees for the software to use it. That they can charge yearly for. It's possible that the raw data is just a stereo camera file with extensions renamed, and equally possible that the firmware in the scanner will do some sort of check for valid license before it will even start scanning, they don't really have much info on their legacy products on their page
---
Tags: scanning
--- |
thread-6706 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6706 | How can you calibrate extrusion multiplier value in Slic3r WITHOUT changing printer settings in memory? | 2018-08-21T08:19:49.693 | # Question
Title: How can you calibrate extrusion multiplier value in Slic3r WITHOUT changing printer settings in memory?
Most tutorials ask you to change the printer settings using the `The command M92 E420 will set the new value which can be saved to memory (so that it is available after a printer power off/on cycle) using M500.`
But I just want to modify the Extrusion Multiplier in Slic3r's settings. It's default at for each filament, and I'd like to modify this by adding a profile for each roll I have after calibration.
What's the best way to do this? If I measure extruding 100mm and checking how much is left, what is the formula used to get the new EM value?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Divide the amount overextruded by the desired amount. If you wanted 100mm but got 101mm, that's 1mm extra, or 1% over. Use an extrusion multiplier of 0.99 (1% under) to compensate - AND THEN DO ANOTHER TEST to confirm.
This modifier will be used by Slic3r to generate E values in your gcode without flashing anything.
I recommend saving this recipe with an intuitive name, like *Acme Green PLA.*
---
Tags: prusa-i3, calibration, extrusion
--- |
thread-6016 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6016 | Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn't) | 2018-05-24T08:09:34.493 | # Question
Title: Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn't)
I've been having this problem with my delta 3D printer where my nozzle isn't moving flat with my print bed (as if the bed is bent) but I have used the edge of my steel ruler and it seems to be perfectly flat. I have properly leveled my bed with a piece of paper and have checked the whole printer to make sure it's square but the problem continues.
What else could be the problem?
### Addition info (from comments)
The gap grows and shrinks in a parabolic manner and it makes it impossible to get a good first layer. the printer is a FLsun Delta Kossel. The links don't appear to be loose. Is there a way I could share a video?
Upon further inspection I found a bit of play in one of the links, I tightened the bolt and the play is gone but it didn't fix the problem.
I have been playing around a bit and I found that the nozzle is closer to the bed in the center than it is near the edge.
I did some research and it's a calibration issue but I have no idea how to fix it. Does anyone know a quick and easy way to calibrate a Kossel Delta 3D printer?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Delta radius controls how the print head moves from the outside to the center. From the comment you posted, it sounds like your radius is too large which is causing it to hit in the center and you need to make it smaller to bring the center up. This is not always a number you can directly change as it is sometimes calculated using other offsets so you will need to find that in your firmware. Also after doing this you're likely going to need to adjust endstops for each tower again or the Z travel to fix your 0 point.
I would recommend following the steps listed here for your calibration.
# Answer
> 2 votes
> Calibration, the part everyone fears. It is actually not that hard.
Calibration on any printer is difficult, but especially so on deltas, as there construction is more complex than a cartesian printer.
Print beds are *rarely* flat (maybe in 1% of cases they are flat), and are usually either convex or concave.
Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and "presses on" to the print bed.
I seriously recommend that you watch this video #18:Calibration for a great explanation on the use of the paper. This video is for a Delta printer, a Kossel XL (although the Kossel Mini is also covered) and it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.
It is an hour long tutorial video, by Tom of BuildA3DPrinter.eu, and it shows you step-by-step how to calibrate the printer, and also how to deal with deformed beds (concave/convex). It uses:
* **Arduino IDE**, and;
* **Pronterface**
and performs the calibration by adjusting, in the firmware:
* `MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS`, and;
* `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET`
---
Here is a run down of the video's contents:
* 0:00 Intro: The perfect first layer can be obtained, either with/without a probe (the printer is, arguably, better without probe) This tutorial is *without* the probe.
* 0:55 Arduino software loaded with Marlin firmware source, looking at the file `configuration.h` and in particular, the line `#define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS`
* 2:30 \- Ensure that the Pronterface USB port is disconnected as otherwise this will inhibit the Arduino IDE from connecting to the printer.
* 3:20 \- Initial test - Gap at the center of the bed
+ Connect with Pronterface and use the following G-code commands
+ `G28` Home the printer head
+ `G1 Z10` Bring the head down...
+ `G1 Z5` a bit more...
+ `G1 Z4` a bit more...
+ `G1 Z3` a bit more...
+ `G1 Z2` a bit more...
+ `G1 Z1` and if the head hits bed then this is too close
+ `G1 Z2` raise the head again
+ Paper thickness is 100 microns, place under the head
+ `G1 Z1.5` lower the head again, but no by so much as before
+ Slide the paper between head and bed. The paper should move freely, but with some friction felt (you should be able to hear the head lightly rubbing against the paper)
* 7:11 \- Deduction of actual distance from print bed is 1.5 mm
* 7:30 Return to firmware, and finely tune `MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS` in the Arduino IDE, disconnecting Pronterface again and upload.
* 8:10 \- Return to printer
+ Connect with Pronterface, again, and use the following G-code commands
+ `G28` Home
+ `G1 Z5 F5000` Move head down rapidly
+ `G1 Z2`
+ `G1 Z1`
+ `G1 Z0` and the head comes to a rest at the correct distance from the bed
+ Retest with the paper
* 9:30 Final test
+ `G28` Home
+ `G1 Z0` Go from home straight down to the bottom
* 10:02 \- Further calibration
+ `G1 Z0.2` Raise head ever so slightly to give us some room
+ In Pronterface - Move the head horizontally
+ `G1 X50` \- Moves head 50 mm to the right
+ *In this case*, if there is a larger gap between the head and the bed. This means that the bed is curved, and **convex**. If the gap was smaller, or the head hits the bed, then the bed is **concave**
* 11:40 \- Diagram of convex and concave print beds
* 12:10 \- Endstops
+ `G1 X-40` Moves the head to the left (of center) and the head is now *further* away from the bed than in the middle.
* 13:20 \- This means that the endstops are not correctly positioned. So, before tackling the concave/convex issue, it is first necessary to adjust the endstops, for each tower.
* 13:37 \- Tackling the *tower* positions individually
+ `G1 Z10` For safety reasons, leave a margin of 1 cm.
* 14:08 \- Calibrating the X tower (left tower). **Note**: The commands will depend on whether you have the Kossel or the Mini.
+ Printer moves in three axes:
- X: parallel (to the front);
- Y: perpendicular (to the front);
- Z: height (not of interest at this point).
+ X tower is not in either of these axes *exactly*
+ `G1 X-100` Moves the head to the side but 6 cm away from the X tower
+ `G1 X-100 Y-60` Positions the head next to the tower correctly
+ `G1 Z5` \- Lower the head bit by bit
+ `G1 Z2`
+ `G1 Z1`
+ `G1 Z0` and the head is still 1 mm too high
* 16:50 Endstop needs to be adjusted by 1 mm *lower*. There are two ways of doing this:
+ Lower the endstop itself - good for large changes
+ Adjust the screw - good for smaller adjustments. Turn it anti-clockwise, and raise the screw by 1 mm. -`G28` Home
+ `G1 Z10` Bring head down 1 cm above bed
+ Move to the tower:
- XL: `G1 X-100 Y-60`
- Mini `G1 X-60 Y-35`
+ `G1 Z2`
+ `G1 Z1`
+ `G1 Z0` Head hits the bed
+ `G1 Z0.2`
+ So the end stop needs to be *raised* by 0.2 mm, by re-adjusting the screw (turning it clockwise).
+ Now home it the head, `G28`
+ And bring it down `G1 X-100 Y-60 Z0` and it should not hit the glass and the paper should slide underneath
* 21:00 Minor re-adjustment and fine tuning so that the paper slides without the need a too much force.
* 21:50 Repeat for each tower
* 22:15 Y Tower (right tower) -`G28` Home
+ `G1 Z10` Bring head down 1 cm above bed
+ Move to the tower:
- XL: `G1 X100 Y-60`
- Mini `G1 X60 Y-35`
+ Repeat the above process - remember to test with `G28` and `G1 X100 Y-60 Z1` for safety, and *then* adjust the Z command
+ This is an iterative process
* 28:04 \- Z Tower (rear tower) -`G28` Home
+ `G1 Z10` Bring head down 1 cm above bed
+ Move to the tower:
- XL: `G1 X0 Y120`
- Mini `G1 X0 Y70`
+ Repeat above process
* 30:14 Re-check! each position (center, X, Y and Z towers)
+ `G28` Home
+ `G1 X0 Y120 Z0` Check Z tower & drop head (head should not touch the bed)
+ `G1 Z10` Raise head (see below)
+ `G1 X-100 Y-60` Move to X tower
+ `G1 Z0` Drop head (head should not touch the bed)
+ `G1 Z10` Raise head (see below)
+ `G1 X100 Y-60` Move to Y tower
+ `G1 Z0` Drop head (head should not touch the bed)
+ **Calibration of the endstops is now complete**
* 31:30 Why the `Z10`?
+ `G1 Z10`
+ `G1 X0 Y0`
+ The first calibration was the center point, but now the endstops have changed and as the bed is either convex or concave, we therefore raised the head by 1 cm, using the `Z10`, to avoid hitting the bed in the center. Now test it
+ `G1 Z2` Lower head slightly
+ `G1 Z1`
+ `G1 Z0` If the bed is concave then the head is still too high! Conversely, if the bed is convex the the head will hit the bed.
* 32:40 Adjusting the `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` in `configuration.h` \- alter the physical parameter of the printer:
+ Convex: Increasing `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` lowers the hotend in the center
+ Concave: Decreasing `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` raises the hotend in the center
+ Adjust the setting in the Arduino IDE and recompile and upload (ensure that Pronterface is disconnected)
* 35:07 Testing the new `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` setting - again in Pronterface:
+ `G28` \- As the firmware has changed, we must re-home.
+ `G1 X0 Y0 Z0`
+ You will notice the the center point *has not changed*! It is the same. However if you go to the tower positions you will see that the (previously) perfect gap *has* changed. This is because by changing the `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` the *center stays in the same place but the edges change instead*. So, for the convex bed, we have *virtually* bent the surface, without moving the center point down, and moved the rim up (or, for a concave bed, down - depending upon the direction of the adjustment), thereby flattening the bed.
* 37:10 Demonstration of adjustment
* 37:51 Adjusting the height
+ Return to the firmware and change, again, the `#define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS` line that we changed at the beginning, adjusting it by the amount that the head is from the center point.
+ Disconnect Pronterface and upload the new adjusted firmware.
+ Then reconnect Pronterface, and Home (`G28`) and drop to zero (`G1 Z0`).
+ The head may still a little *too high*.
+ Then move to the tower, and the head may be *too close* to the bed, without any gap. This means that the bed is still convex and further adjustment is required of the `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` and then, obviously, the `MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS`.
+ Again, this is a bit of an iterative process. Don't forget to home after any firmware updates.
+ Finally once the bed is flat (i.e. it has been virtually flattened in the software) and the gap between the head and the bed is the same at the center and the towers, then adjust `MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS` (an adjustment of 0.05 or less may be required) to get the paper test just perfect.
* 44:35 Check each tower (screw adjustment, of the endstops, may be required). As the bed has been flattened, mechanical sub 0.1 mm adjustments may be required. **Note** that the firmware *does not* need to be re-uploaded, when making mechanical changes - although the head will always need to be re-homed (`G28`) after each change.
* **The head should now be at the correct height.**
* 47:14 \- Extruder Calibration
---
Tags: delta, bed-leveling
--- |
thread-6715 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6715 | Adding a battery backup power supply | 2018-08-23T02:06:23.387 | # Question
Title: Adding a battery backup power supply
So apparently the wiring in my home is... questionable. Very rarely, plugging or unplugging things will cause a power dip. This is almost always the result of turning on a fan or something, is only for a moment before coming back, but its long enough to cause my printer to reset. I want to add a backup battery supply using either the 12v cell pulled out of an old apc ups (before the suggestion of just plugging it into that... I did, somethings fried in it and it will ALSO power cycle everything connected to it every few hours) or an old car battery. Is there any reason I shouldn't use this circuit, which was originally intended for amateur radio equipment?
Also is there anything else i should be considering?
# Answer
> 4 votes
There are a couple of points to consider with this question. First, you will need to make sure the PSU is correctly adjusted to the float charge voltage of the 12V battery. SLA should be safe to float charge, but over voltage will damage it over time.
One alternative solution (since powering the heaters will limit your run time) is to detect power failure, cut the heaters immediately, and save state to EEPROM in the firmware. This is the approach taken in the latest Prusa printers, and is a bit more complex, but might turn out to be more reliable.
If the problem you are solving really is brown-outs, then a simpler solution might be to isolate the high current and control sides of the circuit. The MCU will be run from a regulated 5V or 3V3, so a large capacitor (with diode isolation) on that regulator's input would do the trick.
# Answer
> 2 votes
This circuit is correct as it does the job (provides a charge and switch-over when needed).
The only drawback could be that you need to ensure that the battery is sealed as during the charging process the electlorit will slowly evaporate and decrease battery capacity.
I am personally using a UPC as that gives me more options to power-up more stuff including 240V heater and it has a self-test built-in (it is APC1500VA).
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, printer-building
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thread-6727 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6727 | Customized Ultimaker 1: Extruder motor does not move | 2018-08-24T09:48:06.743 | # Question
Title: Customized Ultimaker 1: Extruder motor does not move
I recently upgraded my Ultimaker 1. The upgrade includes a different stepper motor for the Extruder, the same a Ultimaker 2+ would use. I plugged the new motor and nothing happened.
To eliminate the problem I ordered a new PCB and stepper motor drivers, reassembled all electronics. For some reason the extruder does not move, and actually any other motor I plug into the extruder port doesn't either. I switched the driver, twice, but without a different result.
Can anybody tell me what component could be faulty or how I can find the problem? Could it be the Arduino board, even when I use the Ulticontroller? Maybe remove one of the jumpers next to the driver?
# Answer
Did you heat the hotend before attempting to move the extruder? Most firmwares block cold extrusion. If you send the printer `M302` it will allow the extruder motor to move without the hotend being above the temperature set in the firmware. Jumpers next to drivers are used to set microstepping, no need to adjust these unless you changed to a different type of driver or want to use different microstepping. Changing them usually requires changing the steps in firmware as well. Also, swapping drivers or motors while the driver is powered can destroy it.
> 5 votes
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Tags: stepper-driver, motor, ultimaker-original
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thread-5877 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5877 | Black surface in Meshmixer | 2018-04-26T00:11:19.317 | # Question
Title: Black surface in Meshmixer
I was working on a model today and I need to make the black surface into a normal surface so that the ship's cockpit is solid. I am unable to select the black surface. I tried using the flip normals feature, but I was still unable to select it. Any advice on how to make it into a solid is greatly appreciated. Thanks. :)
Edit: Here's the link to the file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mbTdeeZqhNJx-WlXNqF8mD8QYDSI3Vh\_/view?usp=sharing
# Answer
With the model file available, I was able to use Edit, Generate Face Groups. This allows one to continue with Select, {set small cursor}, select reversed panels, Edit, Flip Normals.
The above steps resolve the cockpit windows, but meshmixer's Analysis, Inspector shows a sea-urchin-presentation of other flaws, including what appears to be zero thickness walls in some locations.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Opening the file in Meshmixer and then using the `Analysis > Inspector` tool creates a colorful note, showing LOTS of errors in this model:
A lot of the magenta errors, a few blue ones. Magenta means "this detail has a small surface area, we'd delete it". Blue means "Here's a hole in the surface, we'd stitch it". The black surface is pink as are some details we want to preserve, so let's change what is considered small: Pushing the `Small Thresh` to the left (`0 mm`) removes all the pink and leaves only blue and a few red spots. Like the windscreens, they are red now.
Red means "here are some non-manifold regions, we'd create a surface to fix this". After clicking on `Auto Repair All` it looks like this, having fixed a lot of these pins but definitely not all of them, as the MeshMixer engine runs against its limits trying to fix this sea urchin. But it is much better.
This is still a messed up model containing 416 non-closed shells (only 401 after repair), but now there *is* a surface at the windows, yet not a very good one. Another example of this model's many errors: the port intake consists of 17 times the same thing copy-pasted next to itself - and it has no lower surface, making this just an open surface and not a solid object
In my honest opinion, it would be more effective to fix this with Blender on a vertex level and stitching all the orphaned surfaces together. This model was most likely made for a video game and fixing up game models for 3D printing is at times pretty much recreating it from scratch.
> 1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, stl
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thread-6739 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6739 | Replacing bearings with Drylin bushings | 2018-08-25T13:50:51.290 | # Question
Title: Replacing bearings with Drylin bushings
When I purchased my China made Anet A8 printer, it came with the ball bearing style linear bearings for the 8mm guide rods. While pulling parts out of the box and putting them together, I noticed several of the small ball bearings fell out of their respective holders. At the time, I really didn't know what to think of it (ie: were these just *extra* ball bearings falling out; were they actually needed). I put the printer together anyway and it seems to work okay.
I have noticed while I've been printing, there's a lot of noise during travel of the pieces. I'm not exactly sure where the noise is coming from, but realize it has to be coming from one or more of the bearings. To hopefully fix the issue, I've purchased some Igus Drylin polymer bushings to replace the linear bearings:
My questions are:
* When installing these bushings, should they be completely dry?
* Should I at least clean the rods?
* Are they completely maintenance free?
* Anything else I'm not thinking of to worry about?
# Answer
> 6 votes
According to igus commercial documentation, these bushings:
* do not need any kind of lubrication,
* are not susceptible to humidity (but your steel rods might)
* work seamlessly in presence of dust (it gets expelled from the bushing with movements)
I've replaced all of my bearings with these, and in my experience, the above claims have been true so far. I must say that I am really pleased with them. Movement is smoother, and the noise is considerably lower.
I did clean the rods to remove any trace of lubrication prior to installing them. I did not dry them.
I believe that igus is also selling rods in a material designed to even further improve the qualities of these bushings, but it starts to become quite an investment.
# Answer
> 2 votes
In addition to this answer and addressing `Anything else I'm not thinking of to worry about?` I would like to add that you should take care in installing the plastic bearings in suitable housings. It is best to lower the mass of the carriages by replacing the blocks and the bearings, there are a lot of printable bearing housings to find on the internet (e.g. Thingiverse). When installing plastic bearings, it is quite easy to get problems with bearings that bind, so take care when you install them and make sure the bearings do not bind (before you re-install the belt).
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Tags: maintenance, bearing
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thread-6764 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6764 | Custom 3D printer printing dimensions has changed because of a .gcode file | 2018-08-28T08:27:49.767 | # Question
Title: Custom 3D printer printing dimensions has changed because of a .gcode file
A couple weeks before, I bought a custom 3D printer that has an Ultimaker 2 motherboard in it. However, the dimensions of the printer is not same with Ultimaker 2 (X and Y same, a bit smaller on Z). The printer had tinkerfirmware installed in it. Today, I tried to print a premade .gcode file (Which was for another 3D printer I guess) and after pressing print, The machine told me the file will overwrite machine settings, and I pressed yes for it. After that, the dimensions of my 3D printer has changed in it's firmware. The bed is raising more than it should while starting calibrating, and not setting it's position precisely. (To make the 1mm gap, I had to move the bed down 4-5mm away from where it should be.) Now the question is, what can I do to fix this problem ? I also tried reinstalling original firmware which didn't really worked. (All the parts are orginal except the frame, which is a bit more smaller on height) How should I measure the height of printing area?
# Answer
Your printer is an Ultimaker clone or something else? All of the original firmwares located on TinkerGnome's Github are configured for Ultimaker printers so if you are using them on something different you will need to configure it before using it. The easiest option would be editing this print file that changed your settings to your desired settings and then reloading it.
How to find your actual Z? Well that's a bit difficult without more information. I'm guessing from your description that your printer homes at Z max? If it's homing at Z max you need to home the machine, jog the Z axis to where you want 0 to be (usually using a piece of paper between the nozzle and bed), then record the Z axis position and enter that as your travel limit in the firmware. If your printer homes at Z min this could be as simple as changing the homing offset.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Firmware *is* stored in EEPROM, and may contain some default values, but does not affect the *calibration* values which are stored in EEPROM.
You should be able to reset the calibration to 'factory defaults', this actually means to take the defaults in the firmware and store them in EEPROM.
Use `M502` to load firmware defaults into the current session. Use `M500` to write the settings from the current session into EEPROM.
It is unusual for a design in gcode to include modifications to the settings, but maybe it was done to change acceleration or something similar.
> 2 votes
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Tags: firmware, desktop-printer
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thread-1541 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1541 | Needing a simple fix for loading TPU | 2016-07-21T19:50:00.947 | # Question
Title: Needing a simple fix for loading TPU
My question is... Is there a SIMPLE/easy way to load TPU without tearing my printer apart to insert a hose that probably wont work anyways. It keeps curling up by the cog. I have read a few topics in other places but I didn't like the answers. Hoping you all might have a simple fix.
# Answer
Loading TPU/TPE can be particularly challenging because many printer loading scripts run too fast for the soft flexible filament to effectively purge whatever normal filament you were using before. A couple tips:
* Load with a slightly higher temp than either the TPU or previous filament require, so as to minimize the melt viscosity and reduce the force required.
* Make a custom gcode file that contains a slower loading routine: wait for heat, then advance the extruder at a very slow rate for a long distance. Then you just "print" this gcode file whenever you need to load TPU.
However, simply being able to load is not necessarily enough. **Not all extruders can reliably print flexible filaments, period.** The larger the gap between the pinch wheel and inlet to the hot end, the more likely the filament is to buckle and come out the side. You need to make sure this gap is as short as possible. If there is more than a couple mm of gap, you'll need to make gap-filler or print yourself a new extruder designed for flexibles.
Printing slow and without major velocity changes can help, too. Use relatively low layer heights and low, constant feedrates so the extruder doesn't have to run fast or change pressure often.
Harder flexible filaments will be easier to print if your setup is borderline. Ninjaflex is one of the hardest to print because it is relatively soft. Semi-flex type filaments are much easier to print if your hardware isn't set up optimally.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I've noticed that the first layer seems more prone to wrapping flexible filament around the drive, particularly if the nozzle is a bit on the low side. The extra extrusion force required to push the filament against the resistance of the bed means that the filament can't sustain enough pressure without folding.
As a quick workaround for this, I lowered the extrusion multiplier to 60% on the fly for the first layer (as well as keeping the speed right down).
> 0 votes
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Tags: filament, desktop-printer
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thread-6762 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6762 | Slicing problem - Slic3r prusa | 2018-08-27T22:30:49.547 | # Question
Title: Slicing problem - Slic3r prusa
I'm trying to slice this model: https://www.shapeways.com/product/VVNUVZ6JL/dread-warrior?optionId=66361748&li=user-profile
I'm using a .4mm nozzle and .1mm layer height. When using slic3r some of the layers seem to just not get generated. You can see this on the horns. It also has some weird artifacts on the shield of the model.
I tried using Cura to slice the same model and while it does a better job for the horns it removes most of the face on the model.
Are there any slicer settings I can adjust to help fix these artifacts? Is there any other slicer out there that may fix the problems? Is this just a problem of needing to use a smaller nozzle and lower layer height?
# Answer
> 8 votes
It's a nozzle size issue. The model contains a lot of details which is really challenging to print with a 0.4 mm nozzle.
A big nozzle is just not able to print such fine details. You should switch to 0.25 mm or 0.15 mm. Just try to set a smaller nozzle in your slicer.
There is a nice article on Prusa's blog showing the difference in printing details with 0.4mm and 0.25mm: EVERYTHING ABOUT NOZZLES WITH A DIFFERENT DIAMETER, especially chapters *Examples of practical use* and *Printing miniatures*.
See the difference:
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, slic3r
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thread-6760 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6760 | Do all 3D printers allow the printing of flexible material? | 2018-08-27T21:02:10.920 | # Question
Title: Do all 3D printers allow the printing of flexible material?
Are there any specific type of FDM 3D printers that I should look for?
# Answer
No. Not all 3D printers can print flexible material.
The first place you will have trouble is in the extruder itself. Flexible filament will find any way to escape from the confines of the rollers and the guide tube. Any opening will allow the filament to buckle and find a new path. It is common to find that the filament has filled any gaps inside the extruder, and wrapped itself tightly around the drive roller.
@0scar describes this in his answer. If the extruder does not have tight tolerances, with 1/4mm or less clearance between the drive roller on all sides, AND if there isn't a tube mated right up into the place where the filament is pressed between the drive roller and the idler, your extruder will fail to print Ninjaflex (a very flexible filament).
Oscar also mentions that Bowden feed doesn't work well. It is fundamentally the same buckling problem. There is always a gap around the filament inside the Bowden tube. A stiff filament will rub at some points, but a soft filament will compress and ripple, filling the entire lumen inside the tube, and greatly increasing the friction. Higher friction means more extruder pressure, so more buckling, more friction, and more failure.
Even if you are lucky and don't experience the run-away friction problem, the flexible filament is more compressible. With a Bowden feed system, that compression must be preloaded at the beginning of each extrusion movement and relieved for each retraction. With direct drive, the filament also compresses, but the amount of filament is much less, so the compression is less, and the problems are less.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Not all printers are suitable to print flexible filament. E.g. 1.75 mm filament printers with a Bowden extruder/hotend combination will not work (you may have more luck using 2.85 mm filament, which is stiffer because of the increased diameter). For 1.75 mm filament you require a direct drive extruder, e.g. with the stepper mounted onto the hotend, even then some additional guide parts need to be printed to make it work. This also depends on the amount of flexibility of the filament, some are more flexible than others.
---
E.g. Ultimaker 3D printers use 2.85 mm filament with a Bowden setup. They also sell a flexible filament that can be printed with these printers. Even for direct drive extruder printers like the Anet A8 (a cheap Chinese Prusa i3 clone) inserts exist (e.g. this or this one) to even better guide the filament to prevent it to buckle.
> 4 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, nozzle
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thread-6750 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6750 | Extrusion is not continuous | 2018-08-27T13:40:10.057 | # Question
Title: Extrusion is not continuous
Issue: Printing is not continuous.
Observation: While printing, the upper layer of the nozzle is leaking. And also the printing is not continuous, the layers are not formed properly.
Practices: Alternate nozzle has been fastened, Bed leveling has been checked, Even used the other softwares to print. Reset-failsafe is also done.
Conclusion: Feeding of filament from the extruder motor is continuous but the printing is not smooth.
Attachment: The pictures and videos (working) are attached.
Which should be a print of the following image of the model:
Certainly I have made certain observations along with your suggested queries. I have listed them please comment.
1. The brand which I'm using is the TEVO TORNADO.
2. The material is PLA.
3. The temperatures are 60-65C (BED) and 210-215C (EXT)
4. The software I used is REPETIER.
5. The extruder stepper motor works fine (No clicks) (The teeths are clean)
6. This is the nozzle leak
# Answer
and welcome to 3D Printing Stack Exchange.
From the picture and the video, it appears that you have significant under extrusion. It is impossible to determine from this information what is causing this. It could be temperature, such as a nozzle that is too cold, slicing configuration being wrong, such as by slicing for 3mm filament but using 1.75mm filament, electronics, such as the extruder stepper not generating enough torque, or a jam where the filament simply can't be pressed into the hot zone.
I listened to your video but didn't hear anything that might help straighten this out. But, what I didn't hear was a "clicking" extruder. The extruder "clicks" if it is trying really hard to push the filament but it is not able to come out of the nozzle. It might be worth checking the toothed roller that drives the filament to be sure the teeth are clean. If the teeth are full, the drive roller can't get a grip on the filament to push it forward.
Also, I am concerned that plastic is may be coming out somewhere other than the top of the nozzle. That shouldn't happen. Could you attach a photo of plastic coming out of the wrong place?
--- Added after comments, and this photo os the nozzle leak was attached.
3D printing needs a long chain of conditions to be right. Any problem in that chain can cause unacceptable results. When trying to get good results, it is always best to fix any problem you find, and the plastic leak is a big problem. Other problems may exist, but this must be fixed for a print to succeed.
The plastic leak is a big problem for a few reasons:
* It allows plastic to leave the melt zone other than through the nozzle. Since 3D printing depends on controlling the plastic leaving the nozzle for the print, this extra escape path is plastic which should have been neatly deposited on your print. The control system has no way to know that the plastic it fed through the extruder is not on the print, so you get under extrusion.
* There is an extra chamber inside the hot end which must be melted. In the ideal case, the filament directly enters the nozzle, in which it melts. Pressure from the cold filament at one end pushes the molten filament toward and through the nozzle. The filament doesn't not need to change directions or flow particularly easily because it always moves linearly through the hot end. It necks-down to the output hole size, but that is assisted by an entry cone to the nozzle aperature.
* In a working hot end, there is not hot filament inside the hot end that is not extruded. There are no eddy currents. There are no places where filament can rest. PLA is prone to degradation when kept at printing temperatures. This isn't a problem in an ideal hot end because no filament sits idle. Where there is an opening, or any extra gap, even if filament weren't leaking past the threads, there would be a pool of filament that was not in the extrusion path which would be hot for tool long, and would degrade into a hard, burned mess.
Disassembling the hot end can be tricky. The cold plastic is a great glue which has filled and sealed the threads. Do not use the internal heater to heat it. The wires will get in the way when you are taking it apart. There can (will) be broken connections, and possibly uncontrolled heating. Use a hot air gun or hair dryer to soften the plastic.
If you can not remove the heater and thermistor before taking it apart, find where they are connected to the electronics and disconnect them there. Do not leave the wires connected. The heater and thermistor are fragile, and too much bending or force on the wires will destroy them. You might purchase spares because you are likely to damage one or both.
PLA softens at a relatively low temperature. When you have a plastic encased mess, disconnected from the rest of the printer, you can soften the plastic either with hot air or hot water.
A "relatively low tenperature" can still give you serious burns. Use gloves, pliers, toothpicks, and any other tools you need.
When you reassemble the hot end, the nozzle should screw tightly against the upper tube that delivers the plastic.
Inspect the top of the nozzle and the bottom of the tube, and be sure they are flat, smooth, and are cut at a 90 degree angle to their axis. They must fit together tightly, leaving no gap.
One assembly order is recommended by E3D. I mention them because they deserve credit, although I am embellishing with details they are unaware of, have not suggested, and are not responsible for.
1. Start with all parts removed from the heater block (the rectangle of aluminum).
2. Screw the nozzle into the heater block, and then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.
3. Screw the top tube into the heater block until it is tight against the nozzle.
4. Assemble eerything else -- heater, thermister, wiring, attach to extruder, ...
5. With no plastic, heat the hot end from the control panel to be hotter than the hottest you will need when printing, maybe 250C if you are only printing PLA and ABS, and assure that it is heating normally.
6. WITH THE HOT END HOT, tighten the nozzle with a wrench so that it is tight against the upper tube.
Of the three objects in the hot end, the aluminum heater block has the highest coefficient of thermal expansion. It is higher than both the steel upper tube and the brass nozzle. The tendency as the hot end heats is to open a gap between the nozzle and the tube. By making them tight at the highest temperature, they will also be tight at lower temperatures.
When the leak is fixed, you may be done, or there may be other problems to solve.
Welcome to 3D Printing!
> 3 votes
# Answer
From your linked photo, it appears that the feeder tube is not well-seated in the hotend (heater block). That's why the leak -- the tube should be in firm contact with the top of the nozzle.
I'm not sure how to adjust that with your system, but as a minimum try screwing the feeder tube down farther into the hotend and, if possible, screw the nozzle deeper in as well.
By comparison, my Prusa clone has space for a seating nut on the feeder tube, and by seating that tightly onto the hotend, I can avoid that sort of leak.
> 3 votes
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Tags: print-quality
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thread-5232 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5232 | Sunhokey Prusa i3 axis x, y, z? | 2018-01-07T03:42:26.057 | # Question
Title: Sunhokey Prusa i3 axis x, y, z?
My Sunhokey Prusa i3 arrived with a corrupted disc. I'm awaiting a new one and finished the mechanical build via YouTube videos.
I've no clue which motor controls the X, Y, and Z, axes. I"m not even positive which axis is which. YouTube vids don't show the origin of all the wires/cables/cords they connect.
Anyone know of any CLEAR and Normal speed (or slow-able) vid/diagram that shows the electronics wiring in detail?
# Answer
> 2 votes
X-axis is right-to-left (Carriage motor)
Y-axis is front-to-back (Base/Bed motor)
Z-axis is up-and-down (lead screws)
There are several videos on YouTube. This playlist seems good.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This diagram would appear to show the connections to the controller board. Taken from 3D Printer: Sunhokey prusa i3 2015 review
>
Refer to Mark's answer for what axis/component each stepper motor controls.
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Tags: printer-building, wiring
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thread-4256 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4256 | How can I add auto bed leveling before print? | 2017-06-18T18:51:01.410 | # Question
Title: How can I add auto bed leveling before print?
I want to add auto bed leveling before each print. When I enable auto bed level in `configuration.h`, it only shows **auto bed** in menu. I found this code in `cardreader.cpp`
```
void CardReader::openAndPrintFile(const char *name) {
char cmd[4 + strlen(name) + 1]; // Room for "M23 ", filename, and null
sprintf_P(cmd, PSTR("M23 %s"), name);
for (char *c = &cmd[4]; *c; c++) *c = tolower(*c);
enqueue_and_echo_command(cmd);
enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(PSTR("M24"));
}
```
and changed it to
```
void CardReader::openAndPrintFile(const char *name) {
char cmd[4 + strlen(name) + 1]; // Room for "M23 ", filename, and null
sprintf_P(cmd, PSTR("M23 %s"), name);
for (char *c = &cmd[4]; *c; c++) *c = tolower(*c);
enqueue_and_echo_command("G28");
enqueue_and_echo_command("G29");
enqueue_and_echo_command(cmd);
enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(PSTR("M24"));
}
```
Now before each print, the printer does auto bedding **two** times but when print starts the auto bedding is ignored and printer acts like before doing auto bed.
Please help me solve this.
I'm using Marlin Firmware 1.1.0.
# Answer
> 6 votes
Rather than modifying the firmware to handle this, have you considered a pre-processing script on your computer, greping for a `G29` in the G-code, then adding a `G28`/`G29` pair at the start of the file if no `G29` is found?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Another answer that does exactly what you want involves the use of a print server. A print server is an application that runs the instructions to the printer over a USB connection from another device, this can be your computer/laptop, or a dedicated Raspberry Pi (a small and affordable computer). One such application described here further is OctoPrint (this may very well be done with other applications, but this needs to be checked first!), this print server application allows integration of many third party plug-ins next to the extensive feature set it already has out-of-the-box. One such feature is `GCODE scripts` (intently spelled this way to match the option in the Octoprint settings menu); this screenshot shows some details:
As can be seen from the image, there are specific "events" available to process G-code commands at specific event occurences like e.g. just before the print starts. You could use that envent to insert your leveling commands.
---
Please note that in the image you will find strange G-code commands like `OCTO100` and `OCTO110` which is a feature of the plugin called "GCODE System Commands" which allows running shell scripts to schedule the fan. I just kill the power to the fan when the printer is idle to get rid of the noise when the printer is just idling, the fan is only needed when the hotend is at elevated temperature.
# Answer
> 4 votes
With Marlin 1.1.0, you can automatically run a G-Code file when powering on the printer with a SD card already present.
Add a file named `auto0.g` at the root of your card, containing the following G-Code:
```
G28 ;Auto-homing
G29 ;Bed leveling
```
Normally the bed leveling map should be reused for all subsequent prints, until the printer is turned off.
It is possible to provide up to 10 files, from `auto0.g` to `auto9.g`.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Rather than placing the `G28` (Home) and `G29` (bed level) in the configuration, I would place it in the G-code generating slicer as pre-print code. This will automatically add this to the start of any G-code sliced, enforcing the homing and leveling whenever the G-code is run.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I'm not that fluent in G-code, but at Modern Machine Shop: Understanding G27, G28, G29 and G30 I found these descriptions of the `G28` and `G29` codes you added:
* `G28`: For any axis letter addresses included in the G28 command, the machine first will move (at rapid) to an intermediate position in those axes. Then, it will rapid to the zero return position in the commanded axes.
* `G29`: G29 is also a two-step command. First, it causes the machine to move (in the axes commanded) to the intermediate position used in the most recent `G28` command. Second, it causes the machine to move to the position included in the `G29` command.
So it sounds to me like you only need one of those two commands. It seems that the code you modified runs separately on startup, rather than for each separate print. I would first try your modification with each G command separately, so you can see exactly what the difference is on your hardware.
I don't know my way around the code involved, but it looks like you'd need to make the modification in another place, such as just before whatever loop sends successive commands to the printer.
Hope that's helpful despite my limited fluency...
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Tags: marlin
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thread-3967 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3967 | What motherboard ID is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware? | 2017-04-29T09:38:49.150 | # Question
Title: What motherboard ID is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware?
I'm struggling with my new printer, and I just want to make sure that I have the basic configured correctly.
What motherboard ID in `configuration.h` is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Marlin appears to support older versions of the board (and possibly this one) according to this line
```
#define BOARD_MKS_13 47 // MKS v1.3 or 1.4 (maybe higher)
```
in `boards.h` which can be found here.
The company also has a guide and looks to provide pre-configured (but not fully configured?) downloads of Marlin. They have different links for different displays but then ask you to change lines manually but don't mention changing the board so I have no idea what they are doing or what is different between the downloads.
It appears either way you go (Marlin from Github or from Osoyoo) you will need to change some lines to get each axis to behave correctly.
# Answer
> 1 votes
A more recent version of Marlin Firmware (*version 1.1.9 is the last release of this branch, new developments are done in the 2.x branch*) nowadays has a separate board constant for the MKS BASE v1.5 board (`BOARD_MKS_BASE_15`) as can be found in boards.h.
The following line quotes the constant for this board from the file:
> `#define BOARD_MKS_BASE_15 405 // MKS v1.5 with Allegro A4982 stepper drivers`
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Tags: marlin
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thread-6784 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6784 | How do I know when filament is getting old, and what things can I do to correct for it? | 2018-08-30T16:30:23.963 | # Question
Title: How do I know when filament is getting old, and what things can I do to correct for it?
I've heard I should store filament in sealed container, preferably with a desiccant.
But let's say I let a spool get a little old on the printer, or I purchased a filament spool that was old or improperly packaged. How would I know? How would this impact prints (what kind of symptoms would I see)? What things could I do (perhaps in the slicer) to correct for this and prolong the life of marginal filament?
And the corollary... in a typical environment, how long can filament be left out without suffering from the exposure?
I'm thinking mainly about PLA, but responses for ABS and other materials are useful, too.
# Answer
The primary issue with long-term exposure of filament to the environment is that it will absorb water moisture from the air. When a filament that has absorbed water is passing though the hot end of a printer, the water will turn to steam and cause problems with extrusion:
* Small bubbles of steam can form, causing extrusion to sputter - you might hear a sizzling noise and have poor consistency.
* Large steam bubbles can cause significant oozing followed by no extrusion.
* Extreme cases can cause mysterious jams that seem to clear themselves (the extruder cannot overcome the steam pressure).
In short, this will cause terrible print quality and failed prints. As the effects are not consistent, there is nothing that can be done by slicer settings to "recalibrate" for filament that has absorbed water.
This can be avoided by storing filament in an air-tight container with desiccant to ensure low humidity. Some people use "dry boxes" that allow the spool to be mounted inside while filament can be passed to the printer, so there is minimal exposure even while the spool is in use.
If you do suspect that your filament has absorbed moisture, you can dry it out, by placing the spool in a warm oven or in a food dehydrator for a few hours. If you weight it before and after, you should find that it weighs several grams less afterwards. **WARNING:** It is important that the temperature does not soften the plastic at all, or it can become distorted or bind on the spool. Most ovens will peak well above the set temperature as the thermostat cycles. Of course, fully melting a roll of filament could destroy your oven or cause a fire.
It's hard to say how much environmental exposure is too much, as every filament and environment is different. When I started out, I had several spools of PLA that I stored in the open for months. I didn't think I was having any problems, but I was also learning much and improving my printer settings at the same time. After getting PETG, it became unusable with oozing and jams after about two weeks but a few hours in my oven was a miracle cure! I then dried some PLA as well, and I found that print quality did improve, but not amazingly so. I have not used ABS, but in theory it is less hygroscopic than PLA, so it is probably not very sensitive to exposure.
I set up a dry storage box, and I am careful to always store PETG or my "good" PLA when I'm not actively using it. I have a couple rolls of PLA that I don't like as much anyway and generally just use for draft prints, and I don't really worry about it that much.
Note: An object that has been printed will also absorb moisture, but in general this isn't a problem.
> 8 votes
# Answer
Moisture creeps into the filament when PLA is exposed for a long time to a humid environment. This is audible like popping bubbles when heated in the hotend and does worsen the print quality. The moisture causes a noticeable property as it breaks the long molecular chains of the thermoplastic material. Once this has happened, its effect is irreversible.
The effects of this moisture breaking the long molecular chains results in a more brittle filament; it can even snap during feeding, leading to unpleasant results like unfinished prints. If the filament snaps/breaks when you bend it, instead of folding, your filament has taken up moisture.
> 4 votes
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Tags: pla, filament-quality, storage
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thread-6793 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6793 | Can 3d-printing be used to print drone frames which carry around 4 kilograms? | 2018-08-31T12:52:27.280 | # Question
Title: Can 3d-printing be used to print drone frames which carry around 4 kilograms?
What about the strength parameters? Where can I give CAD models to print them and receive them? Please guide me.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes, no problem! But this does not depend on the production process, it depends on the design.
Not only the production process (adhesion in Z direction is usually weaker than X or Y) should be taken into account, but also the choice of material. Even carbon fibre doped filaments (nylon or PLA) exist (harder to print however, due to excessive wear of the nozzle by the carbon fibres).
You can also consider using carbon fiber tubes, and only print the connectors/mounts to connect the tubes to the engine mounts and main body mount.
---
*Basically, your question is not specific enough and boils down to a "How do I design a drone frame" or "What are the main design issues for designing a drone frame", which should be asked in an other forum. Once you have a design you could change your question and ask for specifics regarding printing the parts using FDM (e.g. orientation, positioning, materials, etc.).*
---
Tags: print-quality
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thread-6798 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6798 | How do you calibrate a delta robot 3D printer? | 2018-08-31T17:52:14.807 | # Question
Title: How do you calibrate a delta robot 3D printer?
I have a delta robot 3D printer, but I have no clue how to calibrate it. Any advice?
# Answer
This answer below is (partially) taken from my answer to Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn't).
Whilst the answer below is for a Kossel, assuming that you are using Marlin, then the process *should be* more or less the same.
---
Calibration on any printer is difficult, but especially so on deltas, as there construction is more complex than a cartesian printer.
Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and "presses on" to the print bed.
I seriously recommend that you watch this video #18:Calibration for a great explanation on the use of the paper. This video is for a Delta printer, a Kossel XL (although the Kossel Mini is also covered) and it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.
It is an hour long tutorial video, by Tom of BuildA3DPrinter.eu, and it shows you step-by-step how to calibrate the printer, and also how to deal with deformed beds (concave/convex). It uses:
* **Arduino IDE**, and;
* **Pronterface**
and performs the calibration by adjusting, in the firmware:
* `MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS`, and;
* `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET`
---
Here is a run down of the video's contents:
* 0:00 Intro: The perfect first layer can be obtained, either with/without a probe (the printer is, arguably, better without probe) This tutorial is *without* the probe.
* 0:55 Arduino software loaded with Marlin firmware source, looking at the file `configuration.h` and in particular, the line `#define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS`
* 2:30 \- Ensure that the Pronterface USB port is disconnected as otherwise this will inhibit the Arduino IDE from connecting to the printer.
* 3:20 \- Initial test - Gap at the center of the bed
+ Connect with Pronterface and use the following G-code commands
+ `G28` Home the printer head
+ `G1 Z10` Bring the head down...
+ `G1 Z5` a bit more...
+ `G1 Z4` a bit more...
+ `G1 Z3` a bit more...
+ `G1 Z2` a bit more...
+ `G1 Z1` and if the head hits bed then this is too close
+ `G1 Z2` raise the head again
+ Paper thickness is 100 microns, place under the head
+ `G1 Z1.5` lower the head again, but no by so much as before
+ Slide the paper between head and bed. The paper should move freely, but with some friction felt (you should be able to hear the head lightly rubbing against the paper)
* 7:11 \- Deduction of actual distance from print bed is 1.5 mm
* 7:30 Return to firmware, and finely tune `MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS` in the Arduino IDE, disconnecting Pronterface again and upload.
* 8:10 \- Return to printer
+ Connect with Pronterface, again, and use the following G-code commands
+ `G28` Home
+ `G1 Z5 F5000` Move head down rapidly
+ `G1 Z2`
+ `G1 Z1`
+ `G1 Z0` and the head comes to a rest at the correct distance from the bed
+ Retest with the paper
* 9:30 Final test
+ `G28` Home
+ `G1 Z0` Go from home straight down to the bottom
* 10:02 \- Further calibration
+ `G1 Z0.2` Raise head ever so slightly to give us some room
+ In Pronterface - Move the head horizontally
+ `G1 X50` \- Moves head 50 mm to the right
+ *In this case*, if there is a larger gap between the head and the bed. This means that the bed is curved, and **convex**. If the gap was smaller, or the head hits the bed, then the bed is **concave**
* 11:40 \- Diagram of convex and concave print beds
* 12:10 \- Endstops
+ `G1 X-40` Moves the head to the left (of center) and the head is now *further* away from the bed than in the middle.
* 13:20 \- This means that the endstops are not correctly positioned. So, before tackling the concave/convex issue, it is first necessary to adjust the endstops, for each tower.
* 13:37 \- Tackling the *tower* positions individually
+ `G1 Z10` For safety reasons, leave a margin of 1 cm.
* 14:08 \- Calibrating the X tower (left tower). **Note**: The commands will depend on whether you have the Kossel or the Mini.
+ Printer moves in three axes:
- X: parallel (to the front);
- Y: perpendicular (to the front);
- Z: height (not of interest at this point).
+ X tower is not in either of these axes *exactly*
+ `G1 X-100` Moves the head to the side but 6 cm away from the X tower
+ `G1 X-100 Y-60` Positions the head next to the tower correctly
+ `G1 Z5` \- Lower the head bit by bit
+ `G1 Z2`
+ `G1 Z1`
+ `G1 Z0` and the head is still 1 mm too high
* 16:50 Endstop needs to be adjusted by 1 mm *lower*. There are two ways of doing this:
+ Lower the endstop itself - good for large changes
+ Adjust the screw - good for smaller adjustments. Turn it anti-clockwise, and raise the screw by 1 mm. -`G28` Home
+ `G1 Z10` Bring head down 1 cm above bed
+ Move to the tower:
- XL: `G1 X-100 Y-60`
- Mini `G1 X-60 Y-35`
+ `G1 Z2`
+ `G1 Z1`
+ `G1 Z0` Head hits the bed
+ `G1 Z0.2`
+ So the end stop needs to be *raised* by 0.2 mm, by re-adjusting the screw (turning it clockwise).
+ Now home it the head, `G28`
+ And bring it down `G1 X-100 Y-60 Z0` and it should not hit the glass and the paper should slide underneath
* 21:00 Minor re-adjustment and fine tuning so that the paper slides without the need a too much force.
* 21:50 Repeat for each tower
* 22:15 Y Tower (right tower) -`G28` Home
+ `G1 Z10` Bring head down 1 cm above bed
+ Move to the tower:
- XL: `G1 X100 Y-60`
- Mini `G1 X60 Y-35`
+ Repeat the above process - remember to test with `G28` and `G1 X100 Y-60 Z1` for safety, and *then* adjust the Z command
+ This is an iterative process
* 28:04 \- Z Tower (rear tower) -`G28` Home
+ `G1 Z10` Bring head down 1 cm above bed
+ Move to the tower:
- XL: `G1 X0 Y120`
- Mini `G1 X0 Y70`
+ Repeat above process
* 30:14 Re-check! each position (center, X, Y and Z towers)
+ `G28` Home
+ `G1 X0 Y120 Z0` Check Z tower & drop head (head should not touch the bed)
+ `G1 Z10` Raise head (see below)
+ `G1 X-100 Y-60` Move to X tower
+ `G1 Z0` Drop head (head should not touch the bed)
+ `G1 Z10` Raise head (see below)
+ `G1 X100 Y-60` Move to Y tower
+ `G1 Z0` Drop head (head should not touch the bed)
+ **Calibration of the endstops is now complete**
* 31:30 Why the `Z10`?
+ `G1 Z10`
+ `G1 X0 Y0`
+ The first calibration was the center point, but now the endstops have changed and as the bed is either convex or concave, we therefore raised the head by 1 cm, using the `Z10`, to avoid hitting the bed in the center. Now test it
+ `G1 Z2` Lower head slightly
+ `G1 Z1`
+ `G1 Z0` If the bed is concave then the head is still too high! Conversely, if the bed is convex the the head will hit the bed.
* 32:40 Adjusting the `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` in `configuration.h` \- alter the physical parameter of the printer:
+ Convex: Increasing `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` lowers the hotend in the center
+ Concave: Decreasing `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` raises the hotend in the center
+ Adjust the setting in the Arduino IDE and recompile and upload (ensure that Pronterface is disconnected)
* 35:07 Testing the new `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` setting - again in Pronterface:
+ `G28` \- As the firmware has changed, we must re-home.
+ `G1 X0 Y0 Z0`
+ You will notice the the center point *has not changed*! It is the same. However if you go to the tower positions you will see that the (previously) perfect gap *has* changed. This is because by changing the `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` the *center stays in the same place but the edges change instead*. So, for the convex bed, we have *virtually* bent the surface, without moving the center point down, and moved the rim up (or, for a concave bed, down - depending upon the direction of the adjustment), thereby flattening the bed.
* 37:10 Demonstration of adjustment
* 37:51 Adjusting the height
+ Return to the firmware and change, again, the `#define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS` line that we changed at the beginning, adjusting it by the amount that the head is from the center point.
+ Disconnect Pronterface and upload the new adjusted firmware.
+ Then reconnect Pronterface, and Home (`G28`) and drop to zero (`G1 Z0`).
+ The head may still a little *too high*.
+ Then move to the tower, and the head may be *too close* to the bed, without any gap. This means that the bed is still convex and further adjustment is required of the `DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET` and then, obviously, the `MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS`.
+ Again, this is a bit of an iterative process. Don't forget to home after any firmware updates.
+ Finally once the bed is flat (i.e. it has been virtually flattened in the software) and the gap between the head and the bed is the same at the center and the towers, then adjust `MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS` (an adjustment of 0.05 or less may be required) to get the paper test just perfect.
* 44:35 Check each tower (screw adjustment, of the endstops, may be required). As the bed has been flattened, mechanical sub 0.1 mm adjustments may be required. **Note** that the firmware *does not* need to be re-uploaded, when making mechanical changes - although the head will always need to be re-homed (`G28`) after each change.
* **The head should now be at the correct height.**
* 47:14 \- Extruder Calibration
> 2 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, delta
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thread-6751 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6751 | What exactly does automatic bed leveling do? | 2018-08-27T13:50:32.257 | # Question
Title: What exactly does automatic bed leveling do?
I get the concept of automatic bed leveling...the printer moves around the bed and uses a sensor to identify high and low spots, then "software compensates for differences".
But what exactly does "compensates" mean?
It is extruding more material in the low spots to build them up and thinning out the high spots? Is it adding or removing layers? Is it shifting layers as it goes up to compensate tilt? Or...?
In what ways will this affect the final outcome? Would it be valid to say that if you wanted an automatically leveled bed and dimensional accuracy you should always print to a raft?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Last first: use of a raft has nothing to do with bed levelling. It depends only on the features/shape/etc of the object being printed.
Now, as to what the auto-levelling does: the answer is, sadly "it depends." A simple algorithm will just find the Z-height of the four corners and apply a bilinear correction to Z as a function of {x,y} coordinates. A really good algorithm would map the entire build plate to some designated precision (perhaps 5 mm) and create a 2-dimensional lookup table to adjust Z over a curved build plate. What your printer's levelling software does is more likely the former.
Why? because if you try to correct over curves & bumps, then you will end up distorting your entire printed object (basically forcing every layer to follow those distorted axes). Far better to have some flattened or "fat" spots in the first layer printed, and then print proper planar layers after that.
Example: I know my bed (AnetA8 aluminum) is slightly bowed, peak in the center; so after levelling the overall bed I try to set the Z-zero so the outer extremes of my object have good adhesion, even if the center region of the first couple layers ends up non-extruding because the nozzle touches the bed.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Basically there are two problems to address: first - bed inclination and second - uneven bed surface.
There are different algorithms dealing with one or both problems. Most specialists insist that bed should be flat and most people use glass as the top to achieve this. And this eliminates second problem and require to solve only the first one.
To find bed inclination - autolevel algorithm usually do three points test and get transformation matrix. This matrix then used to transform XY motion to be parallel to the surface.
For uneven bed surface more complex algorithms used. But usually bilinear mesh used that could be looked as the whole square surface subdivided into smaller ones with individual inclinations. Basically algorithm from XY coordinates determines the sub-square and then applies corresponded transformation for it's inclination.
The transformation fade out with the Z going up and usually applied within first 10mm over the bed level.
There is UBL (Universal Bed Leveling) algorithm that deals with two problems simultaneously. Only once it probes the whole bed with many points to produce two dimensional mesh to address second problem. And for each next auto level it does three points test to find the whole bed inclination. Then it combines measured inclination with the mesh information stored in memory. UBL assumes that surface do not change but only it's inclination could change.
In all cases this is all about to guarantee that the first levels of filament will lay on the bed evenly and will stick to it.
# Answer
> 4 votes
A probe or even manual (e.g. through LCD panel) leveling results in either a reference plane or mesh. This depends on the firmware and the options set in the firmware. Basically, this process maps the geometry of your build plate. Once it knows this geometry, printing an object results in the head following the height contours of the mapped build plate. Generally the following of the height contours is levelled out in the first few millimeters, which is also set in the firmware. This means that after a few millimeters of printing the height is not adjusted anymore, but is kept at a single level.
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Tags: bed-leveling, rafts
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thread-6803 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6803 | Extruder feedrate when loading and unloading filament | 2018-09-01T04:44:53.307 | # Question
Title: Extruder feedrate when loading and unloading filament
I have an MKS Base 1.4 board with a TFT28 touch screen and a Titan Aero setup.
When I use the load filament command from the touch screen the motor turns at a crazy speed to load filament, whereas if I plug in my laptop and use Repetier host and send a load command it turns at a normal speed.
Is there a section in the Marlin firmware that allows me to set the actual extruding speed during load and unload?
# Answer
Loading and unloading filament through the LCD options is taking care of by G-code command M600. The options used when executing the M600 command define where the head goes and how much filament is extruded of which extruder. Apparently, there is a difference in calling the M600 command via the LCD menu or (un)loading filament through the Repetier application.
The Firmware-based and LCD-controlled retract options are defined in Marlin Firmware file Configuration\_adv.cfg (Advanced Pause). The settings for Repetier are probably differently defined than in the advanced configuration file; you should look them up in Repetier. It could well be that separate G-codes (or scripts) are used for this. E.g. G10 is used to retract filament as set by M207 (both length and feed rate!). G-code G11 does the opposite, it unretracts the filament as specified by M208.
To answer your question, yes, you need to alter the values of the constants in Configuration\_adv.h for changing the speed when using the LCD to change the filament:
```
// (mm/s) Unload filament feedrate. This can be pretty fast.
#define FILAMENT_CHANGE_UNLOAD_FEEDRATE 10
// (mm/s) Load filament feedrate. This can be pretty fast.
#define FILAMENT_CHANGE_FAST_LOAD_FEEDRATE 6
```
> 1 votes
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Tags: marlin, extrusion
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thread-6806 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6806 | Hot end considerations for 300+ °C and greater than 1 mm nozzle size for polycarbonate | 2018-09-02T03:58:35.590 | # Question
Title: Hot end considerations for 300+ °C and greater than 1 mm nozzle size for polycarbonate
I need help with finding what properties or designs I need to look for. I know that I will need these characteristics to work with the material of my choice:
* Can reach 300 °C or up
* Can handle nozzle size larger than 1 mm
* Can be used with polycarbonate filament
I plan to use it in a custom RAMPS 1.4 3D printer running the Marlin firmware, in case this changes something.
# Answer
Handling a 1mm nozzle implies a desire to reduce the overall print time (otherwise why use a large nozzle), so you will need to consider not only the maximum operating temperature but also the rate at which plastic can be melted. (See also this question and one on overheating to compensate)
Using 1.75mm filament is a good start, this has a better surface area to volume ratio, but you're likely to see issues with both the heater cartridge power (so a 40W heater is probably going to help), but also the size of the melt zone and the thermal mass of the heater block.
As you need to push a reasonably large amount of heat from the cartridge to the filament, it is important to minimise the thermal resistance - so using a steel nozzle would be a disadvantage here (but since polycarbonate is abrasive, you will need to consider wear resistance as part of your trade-offs). You can get longer nozzles and larger heat blocks designed to work better in high flow applications.
Also remember that your extruder needs to work 6 times faster to achieve the same linear speed compared to a 0.4mm nozzle (with at least as much pressure), so this also might need to be upgraded (or driven a little harder).
If you can however tolerate a somewhat slower print speed, you might not need to reach 300°C to print PC.
> 3 votes
# Answer
By interpreting your question as *"Can most hotends print polycarbonate at 300°C+?"*, and taking into consideration the answers to Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?<sup>1</sup>, then it would seem to be safe to assume<sup>2</sup> that most hotends can, given a few adjustments or considerations:
* Use of a PT100<sup>3</sup> or thermocouple, en lieu of a thermistor
* Use of PTFE tubing
Taken directly from E3D's V6 product info:
> The V6 can comfortably reach 285°C with the supplied thermistor. By swapping a thermistor for a thermocouple (may require additional electronics) or PT100 you can reach over 400°C. This not only allows you to print extremely high temperature materials like Polycarbonate and Nylons but also eliminates HotEnd meltdown failures associated with PEEK/PTFE designs. The PTFE filament guide inside the V6 HotEnd is never subjected to high temperatures, so there is no risk of damage through overheating.
---
### Footnotes
<sup>1</sup> The materials used by cheaper clones of the higher quality, more expensive, branded hotends are *probably* the same as those used in the branded hotends, and indeed are probably produced using the same pirated patterns/molds/casts, but with less care and quality involved. They can even be produced in *the same factory*, but are items that have failed the QA tests, and as such are not deemed to be *brandable*.
<sup>2</sup> Although, to paraphrase a quote from a movie: Assumptions can be considered to be the mother of all *disasters*.
<sup>3</sup> A Pt100 or Pt1000 is a Platinum RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C which changes with temperature. From this manufacturer's website:
> A Pt100 or Pt1000 is a Platinum RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C which changes with temperature. They are suitable for applications in the temperature range of -200°C to 600°C but are more commonly used in the range -50°C to +250°C. These temperature sensors are reliable and can offer a higher degree of accuracy.
> 2 votes
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Tags: extruder, diy-3d-printer, hotend
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thread-6778 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6778 | Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware? | 2018-08-29T16:45:04.900 | # Question
Title: Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?
When running Marlin Firmware, is it possible to run G-code scripts/series of commands automatically when you insert the SD card?
---
I'm running Marlin on a 3D printer board using an ATmega 2560 based board with a reprap discount LCD controller with an SD card slot. I would like to do this without the need to add another computer/board, so native from the board running the Marlin Firmware.
# Answer
I am not *entirely sure* if this is what you are after, or if it will work, but from this post on Printing From SD Card when printer is turned On
> While an LCD controller is not needed for auto#.g to work, if you have an LCD controller you can use the `MENU_ADDAUTOSTART` option to add a menu command that will run the auto0.g, auto1.g, auto2.g whenever you want.
This (final) post ended up closing the thread so it appears to answer the OP's question - however, whether it will answer your question is another matter.
---
This post, on the Marlin forum, replicates your question and asks about purely insertion of an SD card on a printer which is *already* powered on.
A reply was received and apparently it should be possible by making a code change in `ultralcd.ccp`:
> It does not seem like an auto print, when inserting a SD-card, is to be found in the current program code of Marlin.
>
> You might consider making a feature request here: \[github.com\]
>
> I do not think that it would require much work to implement a "card.autoprintfile()" function in Marlin. It seems to me that a call to such a function could happen at line 5172 right after:
>
> ```
> else
> LCD_MESSAGEPGM(MSG_SD_INSERTED);
>
> ```
>
> in the file `ultralcd.ccp`
A subsequent feature request has been made on Marlin's GitHub, see \[FR\] Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?
However, from this reply, it appears that a feature request is already pending:
> I'm not in favor of this as a general feature. We already have a feature request to be able to run custom G-code in response to various events, with SD card insertion being one of those events. Would that feature serve your needs?
However, as yet, I do not have a link to this other feature request. Will update as and when.
---
As an aside, in might be worth mentioning that the SDFat related code could be the place to code this in, see if SD card removed, how to flag and restart?, although after looking at the Marlin codebase, in particular `SdFatUtils.cpp`, this would appear to be a red herring.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I don't know what you would like to achieve.
As @typo mentioned there is similar functionality which triggers at printer startup: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Autostart
I found in Marlin's source code that you can enable that autostart feature to be triggered from menu. Just enable `MENU_ADDAUTOSTART` in Configuration\_adv.h.
If you really need a g-code that start after sd-card insert then you have to adjust the marlin source code on your own. I suggest to alter file cardreader.cpp. There you have to trigger the autostart procedure after a sd-card is inserted.
> 1 votes
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Tags: marlin, g-code, firmware, scripts
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thread-6755 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6755 | How to print text upside down for minimal support when printing | 2018-08-27T16:48:01.473 | # Question
Title: How to print text upside down for minimal support when printing
Hey!
Pretty new to all this. Wondering how you would approach this problem to have an extruded element on top of a flat surface. I want to avoid lots of support material (actually no support at all for a cleaner print and no work with sanding etc.) I intend to print this inverted in Z (i.e. text down) for the main structure.
My only idea would be to print it separately and then glue it on. But maybe there is another solution that comes to your mind?
Cheers!
# Answer
Let's assume a general case where the base object has to be printed "face down" for reasons of overhang, strength, or anything.
My recommendation, and it's largely one of personal style, is to modify the face surface to have a couple mounting holes in it. Then, in whatever CAD or Mesh software you're using, add mating pegs to the backside of the lettering. (This is easier if you can include a thin "base layer" or connectors so the text is a single object). Then print the base object "face down," print the text "face up", add glue and insert pins into holes.
> 1 votes
# Answer
welcome to 3DPrinting.
To make this easier to talk about, let me call the surface on which you want to print the letters the "tabletop".
Looking at your picture, let me guess that you would print the object with the tabletop down. Then everything prints naturally, with no bridging and no overhangs.
You want to put text on the tabletop. This could be done by using support material to lift the bed up to the text height, or, in the converse, by using support material to permit the entire object to be printed with the tabletop up. I can't see enough detail in your drawing to know if the object is printable with the tabletop up without using support material, so I will assume that it is not.
In your drawing, the lettering is a different color from the table. I'll assume that this is not your intention, and you want the entire object with the text to be printed with one material.
I have solved this in two ways in different cases.
In one case, I wanted extruded letters printed on a vertical surface. I surrounded the letters with a 45 degree draft so that the overhang was printable. This won't help you here unless the object is printable on the side.
In another case, I changed my design to have letters engraved rather than extruded. That prints well against the bed, with no overhang issues, and only short bridging required.
Engraved letters are readable, like extruded letters, and can be printed against the bed.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Supporting the text while printing should simply not be a problem, if printed in the orientation shown. The text, as per your description and shown in the illustration is extruded vertically and there is no overhang. No support should be needed at all.
A few notes:
The bottom (dark grey) portion of your object does have a significant overhang, and may need some support depending on the specific shape. But support for that should not be near the text or affect it.
Text can be tricky to print with high quality if the width is not much bigger than your nozzle size. This is not specific to text, but rather feature size, slicer settings, and printer/filament capabilities. Experimentation is your friend - print it, and then address any quality problems that you find.
If you want the text to be a different color (as in your illustration), you might be in luck. There is a technique to pause the printer at desired layer height, swap out the filament, and resume printing. Your shape would lend itself to this technique. It's not too hard, but the specifics do depend on the software and printer you are using. There are quite a few good writeups on various 3D printing sites. If you want to ask about this, please ask another question, with this information.
> 1 votes
# Answer
One way that I have solved that issue is by model it in openscad and embed the letters in the surface. then with my dual headed printer, print the letters in a different color. No support material is needed in that case.
> 0 votes
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Tags: support-structures
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thread-6815 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6815 | Hotend heating failure too short before limit | 2018-09-03T16:13:37.507 | # Question
Title: Hotend heating failure too short before limit
I am trying to resolve this for months and have tried almost everything, I guess.
I am using Marlin firmware on a custom extruder with a custom fabricated heating block in which heater and thermistor (Marlin Temp\_Sensor 11) are set up perpendicular to each other. Whenever I try to heat it up to 200 degree Celsius, it falls short and fails at around 140 and that too with a very low pace (especially between 100 to 140).
I have already tried PID tuning, ADC values calibration, etc. Also, I have tried varying the values of `Watch_Temp_Sensor` in `Configuration_Adv.h`. I don't know what's going wrong.
Can extruder coldend fan have an effect on the heating of thermal block? I have tried heating the hotend without cooling the coldend, although it takes around 10-12 minutes yet it works perfectly fine then and it reaches to the desired temperature.
The power supply is working fine
P.S. I am not using any kind of pre-built extruder like E3D etc.
This is the setup:
This is the thermistor setup:
This is a view of heater position:
# Answer
> 2 votes
There are many unknowns at this point, you need to work methodically through each stage. You probably also need some test equipment, at least a basic multimeter. Ideally a temperature probe too.
First, check that your power supply can drive the hot-end directly. You already know how long it takes to reach 120°C, so be sure to not let it heat too far beyond this time. This will bypass all of the control logic, and risks overheating your hotend/burning out the heater - but it should be OK if you limit to a few minutes.
Check the temperature reading, and cross check with some PLA or other low melting point filament to see if you actually reach ~180°C. Check the voltage as close to the heating cartridge as you have a connection point. It should be at least 11V (with a 12V PSU). My guess is that you have a bad connection somewhere...
If you observe the hotend getting hot enough to melt plastic, check the thermistor readings. You should see a fairly constant rate of heating well past 200°C. However, I expect this will work fine.
Finally, check the hotend mosfet drive and output as the hotend reaches the target temperature. It should be on, then switching on/off, then off as you pass the target.
If this all looks OK, repeat but with the board in-circuit and controlling the heater. It may be that the mosfet is damaged, or it is not being driven very well - but to progress past that point we need to see voltage readings at various points.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Now that we can see the real problem, your heater cartridge doesn't have good thermal contact to the block, and the block does not have good contact to the nozzle.
Where is your heatbreak? You need to perform a basic analysis of the heat flow in your design. Anything that is expected to conduct needs to be clamped, and to have thermal paste. Any connection between hot and cold which is used for mechanical support needs to have minimal cross section, and maybe use materials with poor thermal conductivity.
## Example
Here is a simplified diagram, with some assumed thermal resistances. Note that the geometry is not representative since your nozzle is actually within the throat, not between the heater and the throat as I've shown.
Total thermal resistance is 7.5 °C/W. Maximum heat in is 40W, so the heater is at 320°C, and the nozzle can reach 300°C.
Replace the heater with a 20W element, and the nozzle drops to 170°C.
Keep the heater at 20W, to achieve 220° at the nozzle, the throat needs to provide at least 4.5°C/W thermal resistance.
Assuming you're using a 10 mm diameter aluminium bar as a heat break, it needs to be 7 cm long with a 20 W heater. If you use steel instead, the length can be reduced by a factor of about 3.
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Tags: extruder, marlin, hotend, thermistor
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thread-6807 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6807 | Sudden underextrusion on Ender3 | 2018-09-02T09:07:26.637 | # Question
Title: Sudden underextrusion on Ender3
I have printed a couple weeks perfectly fine with my Ender 3. Two weeks ago I changed the firmware but the settings were all fine and resulted in good prints.
Now, suddenly *during* a print the extruder motor started to under-extrude.
I thought "hey, could be the file" and used a test file that printed well two weeks ago: Under-extrusion, barely a line.
I looked at the extruder, no filament grinding, no clicking from lost steps or moving against pressure. The Bowden tube is firmly seated though.
I measured what is coming out: instead of 50 mm I ordered to push into the hotend got 28.7 mm. So I went and looked at the steps/mm, which is 93, exactly what it is also on the TronXY X1, which uses pretty much the same extruder setup but for a different style, same sized gear.
I cleaned out the nozzle nevertheless, but that didn't change the results.
What might be wrong and how can I fix it?!
Edit:
* Touching the filament while I was printing a freshly sliced test, I realized it DID lose steps, just the filament did slip back (almost) quietly. Pressing a finger on the filament made me able to feel the shiver in it.
* Inspecting what was printed showed, that the nozzle had migrated against the print platform a little over the weeks.
# Answer
A close inspection of what happened when printing the first layer resulted in this:
* The missing steps on the new print came from the nozzle scraping too close to the print surface, which lead to no first layer
* Readjusting the Z-axis end stop, which had moved down, resulted in no more lost steps, but the print not sticking for the first test.
* Releveling the bed and making sure the bar was parallel to the bed resulted in a perfect first layer.
* Lost steps and under-extrusion could not be replicated after 48 hours of *rest* for the printer.
I have no idea why the print had failed due to under-extrusion *during* the print, but apparently, my immediate tests were flawed enough to not detect the first layer height resulting in getting almost no extrusion. This I mistook for massive under-extrusion, making me believe something else was at fault.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Sounds similar to something I experienced with my Y-axis. The grub screw on the toothed wheel had come a little loose, and I was experiencing a reasonably consistent degree of slip.
In the extruder particularly, these locking screws might not be too obvious to check.
> 0 votes
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Tags: extruder, print-quality, creality-ender-3
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thread-6726 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6726 | What special considerations must be taken when designing parts for 3D printing? | 2018-08-23T21:30:56.073 | # Question
Title: What special considerations must be taken when designing parts for 3D printing?
What are the 'headline' basic design rules for FDM?
Which topics for design principles do you recommend to someone who has purchased an FDM machine and wants to understand what is practical? In other words, where is the place to start when you don't yet know what questions to ask?
This question and its answer discuss design tools and the workflow but doesn't cover design rules.
Design rules here meaning the principles of what is **special** about **planning** a design to be manufactured with an FDM process as opposed to traditional machining or a printing process like SLA, not the detailed/automated checks that would be applied to something like a PCB layout prior to sign-off.
# Answer
> 16 votes
Designing a part for 3D printing often doesn't seem to have many special considerations, but I have learned the hard way, that there are some things to do differently. This is just a list of things to that one should keep in mind ***in addition to basic principles of design***<sup>1</sup> when designing parts, keeping the subsequently slicing the parts in mind too:
# Print orientation
There are many ways how you could orient your print, but usually, there is one orientation, that has the least need for support. Look at your part critically and keep this orientation in mind when designing. Especially look at overhangs and bridging, and if you can get away without.
# Overhangs
There are 3 sorts of overhangs:
1. Small overhangs ones that are neglectable.
2. Long overhangs which can get support.
3. Overhangs that can't be supported.
When designing parts, you want to make sure you only have type 1 and 2 Overhangs, as type 3 overhangs will sag and fail. Think carefully if you can rotate the piece to get a print orientation that does not need an overhang that can't be supported by an automatically generated support structure. If that is impossible, try to implement a sacrificial piece that can turn the overhang into a bridge.
Smaller overhangs can be made neglectable by adding a phase to the underside. This phase's angle is depending on the printer. In my experience, 70° is something many printers can manage, but I prefer 45° due to the ease of making them. A fuller *can* work to give a small overhang the needed support, but often has problems for larger overhangs!
# Bridges
Overhangs turn into bridges if they are connected on both sides. These either have a limited length, depending on the printer you use or need a support in the center. Check if you really *need* a bridge or if you can rotate the piece to get away without.
## Avoid vertical holes in bridges
It might be something that might surprise but a vertical hole or slot in a bridging part is something that often fails as the bridging strings just sag as they are terminated mid-air without a support structure and finally fall, ruining the bridge. Yet such a support structure sometimes could not be removed in all cases, so something needs to be done differently.
One such a solution is to add a 1-layer sacrificial layer on the bottom of the hole: printing a solid layer by bridging is possible, and the subsequent hole/slot can still be free. It has to be cut free after printing in post-processing though.
## round holes in Walls
Round holes in standing walls can become problematic to print once the diameter gets too large. A trick to keep the upper parts of the hole to sag into the cavity, making it undersized or needing to drill it to size later. To prevent this, the upper side of the hole can be adjusted: instead of a round upper rim, turn the hole into a teardrop. This reduces the overhanging area. Keeping a 60° top angle on the hole should be fine.
If the hole is used to key an item to an axle, put the keyway to the top of the print orientation, so it takes the place of the teardrop-tip.
Some more about holes one can learn from Makers Muse (Angus Daveson)
# Reduce internal structure
I have seen prints fail for strange reasons. One of them was a piece taken from a straight up industrial design plan, then scaled down. This one resulted in *too much* tiny internal geometry, resulting in a lot of material and time wasted on printing these internal pieces that nobody could reach, that were fused together for the original gaps were already 0.2mm and less and besides that, there was the occasional print failure.
Removing any non-essential internal geometry lessens not only the printer's load, but speeds up the print, lessens the material waste and can prevent failures due to clogs or other unexpected behavior. If you can't fix it in design, there are workarounds, but try to need to avoid them!
## Avoid Intersecting Shells
As we are at it, often game and graphic designers are lazy and use intersecting shells. These can become quite messy in the slicing step. If possible, try to avoid intersecting shells, even as modern slicers have learned to fix this by themselves by now. The results of that are not always pretty if you forget to flag the "Union intersecting shells" option in your slicer.
# Sizing
We might not always be aware of it, but prints do *shrink* in the XY axis and to a different degree in the Z axis as they cool, during and after the print is done. This is what causes warping in the first place and lead to many lost prints (especially on non-heated beds). This behavior has to be taken into consideration especially when designing bores. My suggestion for this is twofold:
* Intentionally design the hole to be too small and add extra wall material in slicing, then drill it up to the right diameter. Drill slowly to not melt the plastic.
* Learn your shrinking parameter for the material and design with that shrinkage in mind, possibly iterating the print a few times. Note that different spools/colors of the same material might have different shrinking!
## Minimum Wall Thickness
Without Arachne, a 3D-printer can not reliably print walls that are thinner than the extrusion width of a printer. The choice of the correct nozzle for an extrusion width is a question upon itself.. Even with Arachne slicing and variable line width, printing a wall thinner than a nozzle diameter is nigh impossible.
## Tapping/Screwing/Inserts
For tapping prints directly, you need wall thickness - according to the norms - you'll need usually about 0.2mm diameter that can be tapped into for smaller standard-size threads. Using 3 perimeters with a 0.45 mm extrusion width will give walls of 1.2 mm, which I consider a rather strong wall, and provides quite some tolerance to drill up to size and then tapping screws into. You will get away with 2 perimeters for smaller thread sizes (M3 and lower), but for large ones (M10+), you will want a fourth or even fifth perimeter.
Remember though, that the *printed PLA is not good for very strong threading*: **Tapping print**s directly is pretty much only for **low- and non-load-bearing connections**. If you combine several pieces with screws, try to design the parts to make some sort of compression fit using a bolt and nut, or use several, small diameter screws with a fine thread. Avoid coarse thread if you can, stay on the small side.
If you need a **load bearing connection** with screws, the best strength comes from using a **metal insert** or provide a **space for a nut to fit into**. Metal inserts are usually placed by heat-setting them: put the heat-set insert onto a soldering iron tip and push it into the slightly under-sized hole, melting and molding the print to fit the insert, providing strong threads that are held really good in the shell of remolded plastic.
As a compromise, modern slicers allow to use modifier meshes, that could be used to increase the strength of modeled threads or holes that need to be tapped.
Do you want to know more? CNC Kitchen (Stefan) had made some tests on the strength of these connection type.
# Print strength
Keep these general rules in mind when designing load-bearing parts:
Generally speaking, FDM prints are strongest in carrying along their **Z-axis** when withstanding **compressive forces**, as then the print layers of the shell are forced against each other. It also excels at fighting **bending** forces this way. But this orientation is also giving us the **lowest tensile strength**, as each layer boundary is a possible breaking point.
The **XY-plane** usually **excels in tensile strength** but sacrifices some of its ability to withstand compression (it is *not* proportional though).
Printing a part at a **45° angle** will give often a **great compromise of strengths**, but might need an additional surface to get a good first layer - this surface can be sacrificial with the use of support.
For deeper information on the strength of parts and materials in comparison and how to manipulate it, there are large playlists of tests made by CNC Kitchen (Stefan) and Thomas Sanladerer (Tom)
# Post processing
Post processing can be your best friend when printing, just as it can be your worst nightmare. I won't detail all methods of postprocessing, but some that are quite applicable.
## Assembly/Gluing
Remember to design your parts with gaps for the glue when designing parts for assembly, and you might want to include guidance notches/cones or other **alignment features** to make sure the assembly aligns. This is especially needed as the parts shrink a little and have a rough surface.
If you need to assemble your part due to the available print volume, be especially sure to include ways to key the parts together. Pegs or outcroppings/indents (often called *keys*) that match up to one another make alignment on assembly much easier too, and are a different type of alignment feature. It can be a good idea to design yourself a "cookie cutter" file that is applied after designing the part that automatically includes the glue gaps and keys.
There are a lot of glues and other methods to merge the parts. A more in-depth look at some of them is What glues for bonding printed PLA to injection-molded plastic? but you will have to keep in mind how you want to combine your pieces in the design step - and account for it.
## Print in Place/PIP
In this vein, learn the **tolerances your printer** can manage to allow print-in-place(PIP), allowing functional parts that require no assembly. PIP is something that isn't possible with subtractive manufacturing usually, but remember that in 3D printing you might need to *break* the parts free after printing from bridges or sagging. Usually, a single strong turn suffices. To be able to do this, you might want to include a position for an Allen-key to manually turn the parts.
To learn how fine your tolerances are, there are many **tolerance gauges/tests** around. A *rule of thumb* for many printers is, that 1 nozzle width is often easily achievable with a good setup, 0.5 nozzles are achievable with some effort and 0.25 is somewhere close to the 'holy grail' - you might want to change the nozzle to a smaller one in case you want to have very thin gaps.
## Composite construction
There are ways to turn your (mostly) hollow prints into much stiffer versions of themselves by turning them into composites, for example by using a resin or a different hardening fluid (like foam or plaster) as a filler or coating material.
When planning to do so, remember to include inlets/outlets for it and the air. It can be a good idea to design the part in such a way that it just contains the walls and a pre-planned support structure. In doing so, remember to disable infill in the slicer to enforce the flow you want in your structure. Look at how the ribs inside of an airframe are designed for general rules on hollow parts: include holes. This allows the flow of your fluid into each and every corner instead of blocking the flow. This can also reduce the needed number of inlets and outlets from one per *chamber* to one per *part*.
## Plastic Properties
Remember we work with thermoplastics. Learn what kind of postprocessing your thermoplastic allows and its mechanical properties. Some examples:
* APS can be vapor smoothed with acetone.
* Many plastics can be annealed by baking at or little above their glass transition temperature, increasing strength and layer-to-layer bonding.
* When using power tools on plastic, use ample cooling and time, as otherwise, one quickly melts the prints!
## Surface Finish
The surface of FDM prints is somewhat rough. To smooth it out there are 2 general ways: fill it up or smooth it down. If you want to fill it up, design the part *undersized*, if you smooth it down, add *sacrificial thickness*. It is common to combine both, adding body filler first, then sanding down till the print material shows through again. If doing this, make sure to check your sizing.
If there comes a lacquer layer atop, remember to account for that thickness: undersize surfaces, oversize holes!
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<sup>1 - this means, that thoughts about postprocessing that are not unique to 3D printing are not elaborated on here. Examples are painting, coating or smoothing the surface mechanically.</sup>
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# Further reading/viewing
Further information can be gotten from these playlists, though they aim at times for newbies:
# Answer
> 2 votes
In a presentation(pdf) that I've used as an introduction to 3D printing, I listed out the following points:
* Structures have to be built-up from the build platform, with only about 45° overhang (or small **flat** bridges).
+ supports can be added (generally automatically), but results can be variable.
+ changing the print orientation can solve overhand problems.
* Infill is used partly to provide additional strength, and partly to support any roof parts. Generally a print will not be solid.
* Small parts in particular may need a brim to help with bed adhesion.
* Designs must be 'manifold' to be printable. Arguably this is part of the workflow, but it can be the cause of non-obvious failures.
The other detail worth calling out is the precision of what can be printed with FDM, although the best case resolution is ~0.1mm, the overall accuracy will be closer to the nozzle diameter due to the way that extruded filament is squashed during the print.
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Tags: 3d-design, knowledgebase
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thread-6804 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6804 | Extruder/nozzle keeps clogging up | 2018-09-01T10:49:52.933 | # Question
Title: Extruder/nozzle keeps clogging up
I have an Adventurer 3 printer from Flashforge and every time I unclog it, it gets clogged up again. I’ve done about 6 or 7 prints with it. So after I unclog it, I load the filament and it comes out of the nozzle like it should but once I start a 3D print, it’s clogged again. The process of what I do to unclog it is by heating the nozzle up and then shove a small metal rod down the nozzle to push out the clogged filament. I do this several times until its all gone. I’ve read up on what I can do to prevent it but it doesn’t seem to work. What should I do?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I can see from the photo that filament melted and frozen thicker inside extruder. This is the problem and not the clogged extruder. This thick part produce a lot of friction and actually diameter grow until the print finally will stuck. Basically I had the same problem and I could guess that you are also using Bowden setup. The length of this built thicker part is actually corresponded to your retraction length setting in your slicer (the default value in Cura is unreasonably big like 6.5 millimetres). I solved the same problem by decreasing retraction settings to about 2-3 mm. Just try it and I am sure you will not have this problem again.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The Flashforge documentation is not much help, so unless there's a way for you to connect with their user community (because, maybe what you're dealing with is a known issue related to firmware or the machine itself) or Flashforge's customer service folks, you've got some fun detective work ahead of you. Seriously--you will enjoy solving this!
So: It will help to teach yourself the ABC's of clog symptoms, so you can see what the cause(s) *could* and *couldn't* be, in your situation. This is not a bad starter guide, and there are lots of others. You say you've "read up" on preventive measures--that's great! When your original post says, "but it doesn’t seem to work," please understand, though, that we who read don't yet know what "it" *means*, in this case. Clarity & details are you friends here.
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Tags: nozzle, flashforge-adventurer-3
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thread-6832 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6832 | How are infill paths connect to form an efficient path that respect the object's geometry? | 2018-09-05T03:25:42.310 | # Question
Title: How are infill paths connect to form an efficient path that respect the object's geometry?
I am attempting to write a basic slicer for some objects I am working with. I need to write a custom slicer as the objects are not polygonal based (they are implicit objects) and therefore cannot be plugged into slic3r. I can easily obtain the perimeter/shell of the objects I am working with and have a few successful prints. What I am having trouble with is how to add infill. I think the biggest hurdle is simply my inability to frame the question properly. How do current software tackle this problem?
I don't know of my current approach is feasible but if I have a collection of vectors that represent the path around the outside of the object and a collection of vectors that represent an arbitrarily large infill pattern is there a way to union the two paths together to from an outer path (the object shell) and an inner path that is the infill pattern cut out in the shape of the object?
EDIT:
Sorry for the lack of clarification. So lets say I cut out the infill pattern to match the inside of the object. How do I then intelligently connect all the broken infill segments together to form an efficient path that doesn't cross gaps or mess the object up in any way?
# Answer
The answer to this is pretty much basic algebra: The software tackles the problem by using a set of functions that generate the infill pattern for ALL the build volume, then discard anything outside the shells. Which is determined by algebra:
# Basics
### Outline Function
Assume the outline of the body is a function $O(l)$ that has a parameter $l$ for its length. This function can be calculated into XY coordinates, giving us $y\mapsto O^{xy}(x)$, that is parameterized after $x$, and should give us the values of $y$ for a closed function $O(l)$.
### Infill Functions
Now, let's generate a function for infill pattern. Let's make it easy for us and use a diagonals pattern: $I\_n(x)=x+n\times d$ where $d$ is a fixed parameter for "distance to last line" and $n\in\mathbb Z$ is the number of the line with 0 passing the origin.
### Comparation: Outline=Infill
Now basic algebra! Let the computer solve for each $n$ the term $O(x)=I\_n(x)$. The result should be (in the best case) paired points, all on the linear function $I\_n(x)$. Sort these points by their correlating $n$ value first, then the $x$ values.
# Dealing with the results
Let's assume we have some banana shape and our solutions for n=0 are like this: $P\_{i=1 \to 4}=\\{\\{1,1\\},\\{2,2\\},\\{3,3\\},\\{4,4\\}\\}$
## Modeling starter
On the most simple cases, we hope to only have paired results - the outline is closed and thus each line passing it has to *cut* it in multiples of two. Because we don't allow geometry to be below $\\{0,0\\}$, the line in this example will pass into the body at the first solution of these points and pass out of it at the second and so on. Generally: It moves in at odd and exits at even i. So our infill lines in the example need to connect $\\{1,1\\} \to \\{2,2\\}$ and $\\{3,3\\} \to \\{4,4\\}$.
# Enhancing the Modeling
## checking for tangents
Now, we might have an odd number of points that solve O(x)=I<sub>n</sub>(x) for a given n. Let's assume $P\_{i=1 \to 5}=\\{1,1\\},\\{2,2\\},\\{3,3\\},\\{4,4\\},\\{5,5\\}$.
Now we need to be careful as one of these points is guaranteed to be a point in which $I\_n(x)$ is a tangent at of $O(x)$. So, we need to know the first differential of $O(x)$ in the points, which is the tangent at $O(x)$. But we don't need to solve *all* the points: We know the first should enter and the last exit the body, so we need (for most cases) to only solve this for the points $P\_i$ with $i=2 \to i\_{max-1}$. When $O'(x)=I\_n(x)$, we got a tangent and remove this point from the list of points to connect with infill lines.
Because we could have several tangents in a set of points, this check has to be done for all sets of points to eliminate these points.
Also, I used the "usually" there by intent: there are cases where the first or last point is a tangent, and because it is easier to cose, we should run the elimination process over all $P\_1 \to P\_{max}$!
The new, reduced set of points will be a paired list: $Q\_{i=1 \to 4}=\\{1,1\\},\\{2,2\\},\\{4,4\\},\\{5,5\\}$. The Infil connects $Q\_1 \to Q\_2$ and $Q\_3\to Q\_4$.
## Turning Points into vectors
Now, we have our points $Q\_1$ and $Q\_2$ (or any other pair of $n \land n+1$, where n is an element of the odd numbers), both on $I\_{n=0}(x)$. How to connect? Easy! $I{n=0}$ is a function, most likely a linear one. Along this line has to be our connecting line from $Q\_1\to Q\_2$, so the movement we have to plot is the function of our pattern between the points. For a simple, linear pattern this would be:
$L\_1=\frac{I(x)}{|I(x)|} \times |\vec{Q\_2}-\vec{Q\_1}|+\vec{Q1}$
# Optimisation
## Sorting properly
Now, we have a set of Lines $L\_n$, where, as established in the last paragraph, n is an odd number declaring it has the lower-end $Q\_n$, and the upper-end $Q\_{n+1}$. How do we sort these lines smartly so we have the least movement? Let's take a look at our lists:
* The list of P<sub>i</sub>, which contains all tangential points and end points. Not very helpful.
* The reduced list of $Q\_{n}$, which contains all the start and end points; it is *sorted* in a way that odd numbers are starts, and even ends.
* The list of $L\_n$ with i always being an odd number, that contains the movement paths (=lines) from each $Q\_{n}$ to its corresponding $Q\_{n+1}$
### Shortest movement between prints?
Now, let's do some math again: What is the closest $Q\_{a}$ to the $Q\_{n+1}$ we did end at after doing the $L\_n$ movement? Well, first of all, we need to make sure we don't get back to already moved paths so let's make a new list $R\_{i}$, which contains all the $Q\_{i}$ we have not yet moved to.
So what is the closest $R\_{i}$ to the end point of the path $L\_e$ we just moved? Well, easy! Solve $min|R\_i-L\_e|$ with i being all the odd numbers in the list of $R\_{i}$ and $L\_e$ the point where the printhead was sent to at the end of the last movement
### fewest direction changes?
Always moving just the shortest distance might create a large number of direction changes. So it might be a good idea to keep the point-lists sorted by the parameter n of the function $l\_n(x)$ that created the points in the first place, and run down that list from minimum n that generated points (which can be below 0) to the maximum n that generated points.
### optimizing direction changes & movement paths
Now, we have 2 approaches that pretty much only follow the pattern. However, we might make our average movement paths more efficient by using a simple trick:
Up to now, all our line functions $l\_n(x)$ had the same vector and just a different starting point to one another. So all the starts were on one side of the body, all the ends on the opposite. With a very simple trick on the infill function we can generate a group of functions that alternate the sides of the end-points between each line, jsut by adding an inverse element:
$L\_n(x)=-1^n\times l\_n(x)$
Now, after all the movements with the same $n$ are done, check for the closest starting point (which should be on the same side, but is not necessary the neighboring line), and go down that line fully, eradicating these points from the list of remaining points $R\_{i}$. Once back on the side we *started* first at, we look for the closest unused point again, run down that line, rinse and repeat.
> 8 votes
# Answer
simple answer is math but you know that for sure
more descriptive answer (but still simple and with no math) is more or less as follows
* slice an object with a plane to form (calculate) outline perimeter
* create a grid of infill according to your needs (ie: lines, grids or honeycombs)
* calculate where outline cuts your grid of infill
* abandon all what is outside
* sort cut points in some order ("some" is definitely the hardest task)
* join points according to your sort
and voila ;)
of course there is many details not mentioned in such description as distance between perimeter and infill, layer thickness and many others this is just very naive and silly description but it's just to direct you where to go further
generally there is great library which you could give a try
https://sourceforge.net/projects/jsclipper/
**edit**
simple sort (counter)clockwise could be like this
* set center point of the object (perimeter)
* start from 1200 hour and calculate module and angle of each cut-point
* sort them by angle
it's still very simple and it's working only for convex set
> 3 votes
---
Tags: slicing, infill
--- |
thread-6818 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6818 | Secure disposal of 3D prints | 2018-09-03T22:44:17.647 | # Question
Title: Secure disposal of 3D prints
The company I work for is protective of IP and has security procedures for disposing of anything that could be stolen for industrial espionage. Paper gets shredded and sent to trusted recycling center, all old data storage media gets obliterated, but what do we do with 3D prints? For any functional prototype, I have 10 or more early versions and failed prints. Is there a good way to dispose of these so that they are unrecognizable? Given the volume of prints I need to dispose of, it should be safe, cheap, and able to handle large batches.
# Answer
> 6 votes
Big batches need you to be time efficient - or use a method that uses little work. So my suggestions are mainly needing oversight. Keep a fire extinguisher and safety gear handy though!
# Melting together
Most filaments are melting at or around 200 °C.
I recently got rid of my box of (PLA) waste material by putting them on a tray and melting them together in a standard kitchen oven at 200 °C for about 1-2 hours. The resulting plate of plastic destroyed all structure that could be identified. This plate can be then broken up or recycled without the risk to disclose any company secrets.
I suggest to use a baking paper under the filament to be molten or a teflon coated tray, as the filament will be REALLY sticky to a blank metal surface.
About 4 liters of broken prints resulted in approximately a 5x450x300 mm sheet. If you make sure that no filament can touch the heating elements, you can get rid of quite a lot of material in each batch.
**Don't do this with ABS** and don't contaminate your food trays with plastic rests - use specially marked ones that are for disposal of prints only.
### Green destruction
If you want to be green when destroying prints: a box solar cooker with a glass lid easily runs at 200 °C, is decently cheap and runs all day on just a couple seconds of adjusting every hour or so. You have to set it up in an access restricted area, but as long as the sun shines, it runs pretty much for free. Just make sure to put the prints to be destroyed onto some kind of non-combustible carriers, like tinfoil or aluminium trays.
## ABS in Acetone
If you use ABS, exposing it to acetone fumes for a short time (seconds to half a minute will smooth the surface. Give it some minutes can destroy the structure into a batch of plastic waste without heat that hardens as the acetone evaporates again, though complex structures might need as much as an hour. Dunking ABS into acetone results in pure chemical waste, that is just a waste of acetone.
To save acetone and a way to the chemical waste disposal, try this:
Put a batch of several prints into a large, airtight box that isn't made from ABS. Pour some acetone on a tray and add a paper towel to generate a consistent acetone atmosphere in the box. Make sure to keep the tray on the floor of the box but in a way so no print will fall into it. This should dispose of the prints by merging them into a huge lump within about an hour.
**Do this outside & keep fire away**.
# Answer
> 4 votes
A plastic shredder machine it's better then a melting/burning solution. It is faster and it doesn't produce fumes. Imagine burning PET bottles.
For the shredder you need nothing but electricity for the motor. For plastic melting it would be much higher consumption. Additionally you could reuse shredded plastic for filament machine like Filastruder or Strooder.
There is a nice article about shredders on 3dhubs from 2015.
Then it depends on your budget. Around 400$ you can build one. A nice tutorial on preciousplastic.com. For 1000$ you can find shredder machines on Alibaba.
# Answer
> 3 votes
If your company has a shredder which would handle large amounts of paper at one time, it should be able to handle the plastics from 3D printing. Most larger shredders can handle paper clips and staples. 3D plastics would be even less of a burden than them. You may need to break the pieces down into smaller chunks, but I doubt it would be an issue. Even destroying most prints by hand shouldn't be too arduous.
Secondarily, you could also melt them using something hot ... a heat gun would probably do the job without issue. They get in excess of 1100°F. Since we *usually* melt filament at around 200°C (~392°F), a heat gun should be more than hot enough to make it an unrecognizable blob of plastic.
# Answer
> 3 votes
There are industrial shredders that will destroy just about anything. They are not cheap, at least from a hobbyist point of view. You might look into them because they might be right for the size of your company.
Otherwise, you can simply melt them in a hot oven or with a heat gun. I would be careful about getting them too hot because some filaments release toxic fumes when heated and that might pose a hazard risk with potential liability risk.
# Answer
> 2 votes
My 2 cents. If you have a CNC machine, you could "mill" them down. other than that, garden shredder/mulcher might suffice.
---
Tags: print-material, post-processing, disposal
--- |
thread-5131 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5131 | Tips for printing and being able to get of base easily | 2017-12-15T20:50:23.290 | # Question
Title: Tips for printing and being able to get of base easily
I'm very new to 3D printing and I've had numerous failed prints. Sometimes, the print is good but while trying to get it off the base I end up bending or breaking the print.
My question is: How to I print and make it easier to release from the plate?
I'm printing with PETG, PLA and ABS. At the moment, it's PETG that is giving me trouble.
My printer is a QIDITECH Dual Extruder.
I found this:
https://all3dp.com/1/remove-3d-print-from-bed-stuck-glass/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6fudqMEGyI
I haven't tried any of the proposed solutions yet.
# Answer
> 1 votes
In the end I found using the tape was a great help, getting the level correct is also a big help.
# Answer
> 3 votes
The all3dp article you linked to is very comprehensive and shows what are the "approaches" to print removal, rather than just the tools. For the sake of keeping all info accessible here, the article highlight these 6 approaches:
* Brute force
* Wedge the joint apart
* Thermal difference
* Chemical reaction
* Mechanical cut
* Bed warping
To that list I would add a final class of solutions that I would call "sacrificial surface": use some removable substrate like painter's tape and remove that from the bed rather than the print from it. Once the print+surface is off the printer than is normally very easy to scrape or sand the material off the print.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I would reccomend heating up the base a bit. If your printer doesnt come with such an option, try heat-gun.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I am new myself and here is what helps me:
1.) Make sure your z-offset is correct, you want it to just be enough to stick, you do not want the nozzle pushing the filament into the base any harder than it has to.
2.) For pieces that are too short or otherwise shaped so as not to be able to grab and pull off easy, I generally will use a raft as I find the rafts are easier to pry off than the piece itself, even if the piece already has a large surface area exposed to the bed.
3.) Get a print removal tool if you don't have one (mine came with one). I don't have a glass bed but would likely want to be careful here. It's basically a metal spatula. These can be purchased on amazon under 3d printing accessories..
I know some other people will use Kapton tape or magigoo which are available on Amazon. I'm NOT CERTAIN that these are to help with removal (magigoo says its an adhesive that's designed to release the print after its cooled). Kapton tape I'm just speculating as I see it advertised everywhere for 3d printing, so I would research further on these.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I use multiple layers of Elmer's white glue on the glass bed (five layers I think). The glue is PVA which provides a textured surface onto which the PETG adheres. It sticks better when the bed is hot than when the bed is cold. I use a bed temp of 58 degrees on my Anet A8. I have found out that the temp reported by the Anet is lower than the temperature that I measured the surface of the glass to be with my temperature probe. The PETG removes some of the layers of PVA when it comes off. For this reason I'm constantly needing to add more glue to the area that was printed, until the surface is so uneven that I have to remove the glass plate, clean it and start over again. If you take this advice, never flip the glass plate over onto the bare aluminum with the glue on it, as it will stick very firmly!
My colleague in work who has the same Anet A8 uses a glue stick in place of white glue. He also has a good experience printing PETG in this manner. I have tried his glue stick method, and found it difficult to clean when it's time to clean the glass. Now I live by my white glue method.
To apply the glue I use a foam artist's brush to make the layer nice and even. I let each layer dry before I apply the subsequent layers. After each use I quickly wash the brush because the glue will harden in the foam and cause the brush to wear out.
I also use this method with PLA, and TPU.
---
Tags: post-processing, replicating-printers
--- |
thread-6849 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6849 | Ultimaker Original temperature sensor replacement? | 2018-09-06T18:12:10.460 | # Question
Title: Ultimaker Original temperature sensor replacement?
The title almost says it all.
I was searching on websites like amazon.com and ebay.com for a replacement of the temperature sensor of my Ultimaker 1, but could only find replacements for Ultimaker 2 (PT100), but I know those aren't compatible.
What specifications have replacement temperature sensors that work with the tc2 signal amplifier of the Ultimaker Original?
# Answer
You need a **thermocouple**, not a thermistor. Also, as you say the Ultimaker Original+, and the Ultimaker 2, (which both use version 2.x.x boards) use a PT100<sup>1</sup>.
According to this post, on E3D Thermocouple mount on UMO+, a *k-type* thermocouple will do:
> I am changing over to E3D V6 on my UMO, and have elected to used the k-type thermocouples sold by e3d with the standard/original UMO amplifier board.
Or to be more precise, from this post, on THERMOCOUPLE SENSOR REPLACEMENT, it is a ***3 mm k-type*** thermocouple:
> I would ask the reseller to measure the thermocouple to be really 3mm. I never bough a thermocoupler so no idea. I know that some aliexpress sellers did sell me a pt100 with 3.05mm (it doesn't fit in) so is good idea to ask for a photo with a caliper before paying.
The thermocouple in question, on AliExpress was this, SWMAKER Thermoelement Typ K (TC) für Ultimaker Original 3D drucker 3mm K thermoelement typ für Ultimaker Original 3D drucker, ~$10
Or this, considerably more expensive at €33, Ultimaker Original - Thermocouple Sensor (out of stock):
---
With respect to the firmware, from this post, on E3D Thermocouple mount on UMO+
> Normally you won't have any modifications to do cause your UMO already works with a thermocouple.
So, assuming that you have an AD595 amplifier and not a MAX6675, ensure that you have
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1
```
set in `Configuration.h`
```
//===========================================================================
//=============================Thermal Settings ============================
//===========================================================================
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
// 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)
// 13 is 100k Hisens 3950 1% up to 300°C for hotend "Simple ONE " & "Hotend "All In ONE"
// 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x
// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950
//
// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)
//
// 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup
// 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)
// 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup
// 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1
```
---
However, according to Questions about thermocouple and thermistor, the UMO board is 1.5.7, and *can* use NTC100K thermistors and (maybe - but it isn't clear) a 4.7K pullup resistor:
> Firstly we have to do the Challenge with a Sainsmart UM Kit with that UM 1.5.7 Board.
>
> We also have bought the print heads by E3D model V6 which have including ntc 100k thermistors which have already tables in marlin. As the V1.5.7. Board works with thermocouple, there was the question how to connect this. I got already an answere to just connect Signal and GND, to the board but I'd have to look for the resistors behind the connectors. Is it true, that I need a different resistor for each type of thermistor?
However, it is probably advisable to stick with the 3 mm k-type thermocouple, for simplicity's sake.
---
### Footnote
<sup>1</sup> Apparently for these reasons, from this post, on THERMOCOUPLE SENSOR REPLACEMENT:
> The UMO has the 'old' UltiBoard 1.5x which is a shield for an Arduino Mega, with the Pololu / Allegro stepper drivers plugged on it (Like the RAMPS controllers).
>
> At that time RTDs where not very popular, and most printers came with thermistors. To improve the temperature feedback loop Ultimaker decided to use a thermocouple with an amplifier on top of the print head, which gives better results in particular at higher temperatures.
>
> If you want to use a thermsitor instead of the thermcopule, you just have to swap the connections, and add a resistor on the board (the place for the resistor is foreseen on the board).
>
> You can even go for an RTD using E3D's adapter plate.
>
> The UMO+ is using the UltiBoard 2.x which is the same as in the Ultimaker 2, so it is PT100...
*Note: RTD = Resistance Temperature Detector (such as a Pt100). A thermistor is similar to an RTD, but contains a ceramic or polymer resistor en lieu of metal.*
> 4 votes
---
Tags: replacement-parts, ultimaker-original
--- |
thread-6850 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6850 | Given a viscosity is it possible to calculate required pressure for desired output? | 2018-09-06T19:54:28.283 | # Question
Title: Given a viscosity is it possible to calculate required pressure for desired output?
The following rheology question relates to predicting the flow of polymer-based non-newtonian fluids extrusion processes. In this case, applied to 3D printing.
I'm trying to calculate the pressure required to produce the desired output based on my current system (pictured). I'm working under the assumption that it can be described in the same way as an MFI test.
Specifically, is it possible to calculate the Melt Flow Index (MFI) of a polymer under different test conditions (dimensions)?
The MFI test is defined by the following:
* piston radius (change to match my system)
* nozzle radius (change to match my system)
* nozzle length (change to match my system)
* test load (change to match desired output)
Using either the pre-existing MFI rating or the viscosity (or shear rate and shear stress) is it possible for me to define the test load in order to achieve output (gr/min)?
This paper seems to prove this is possible but I've not yet been able to condense it into a single/understandable equation.
Melt Rheology of Polymer Blends from Melt Flow Index (bottom of page 222, 223, 224)
I know that pressure = force / piston cross-sectional area
# Answer
> 2 votes
The answer hews close to the famous cliche "In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not." That is to say, yes, there is a nonlinear but repeatable relationship between viscosity and pressure and feed rate. However, it's strongly dependent on temperature, and further the apparent viscosity is a function of the pressure (think oobleck).
In the end, it depends mostly on whether a couple percent variation matters to the final product. (and if it did, nearly all hobbyist extrusion printers would fail)
---
Tags: extrusion
--- |
thread-6859 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6859 | A4988 driver cooling specifications | 2018-09-07T11:15:28.410 | # Question
Title: A4988 driver cooling specifications
When exchanging the mainboard of my Ultimaker Original, I found the new (unoriginal) mainboard to have a condensator that is quite a little higher than on the original, which means the fan duct doesn't fit any more.
I read somewhere that those A4988 stepper motor drivers don't have to be actively cooled, but a heatsink will be sufficient:
After testing the theory I found the heatsinks to be really hot, but not too hot to touch. Sadly I do not have any means of temperature measurement other than my fingers...
How hot do they normally get, when should I abort printing and look for a different solution?
Are there any good solutions other than the original cooler & cooling duct?
# Answer
> 2 votes
A4988 become hot when a lot of current draw from them . If it is more than 1.5 Amp. Also you will notice missing steps, missing layers, abnormal print and Stepper motor become hot .It automatically shutdown at max temp.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The answer to that question is not as simple as it looks as we don't see the hardware. Main issue is the current pointed by Himanshu, that generates most of the temperature in the silicon chip.
I was using drivers without active cooling, but my case was open so there was enough heat dispersion.
You could do a dry run - by creating a command file with G-code like below
```
G28
G1 X200 Y200 F6000
G1 X0 Y0 G1 X200 Y200
...
... copy and paste many times to have a 10 minutes run on the printer
```
That will keep the stepper busy and you could observe radiator temperature and probably see/hear miss-steps.
other solution could be a duct like this one
---
Tags: ultimaker-original
--- |
thread-6866 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6866 | Using two feeders at the same time | 2018-09-07T15:08:10.993 | # Question
Title: Using two feeders at the same time
I am using Prusa i3 MK2s with the first version of the multi-material add-on.
As far as I understand, the slicer defined the used feeding motor using the `T0`-`T3` code which defined one feeder at the time.
Is there a way to have two feeder motors working at the same time?
# Answer
> 3 votes
The first multi material add-on version off J. Prusa includes several separate steppers that load filament into the hot end. Note that selecting an other color will retract the existing filament so that the next filament can be loaded. There is no mixing hotend nozzle. It is therefore working serial, not parallel. Working 2 steppers at the same time will lead to clogging the filament joining position.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, g-code, dual-nozzle, multi-material
--- |
thread-6869 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6869 | Ender 3 Calibration Cube Fail + Can't Print Circles | 2018-09-08T15:54:48.133 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 Calibration Cube Fail + Can't Print Circles
After noticing that my ender 3 couldn't print a 'perfect' circle I decided to use a calibration cube to see if that could be the issue. These were my results:
I did have some successful prints before noticing these problems but it would be great if anyone could help/find a solution.
I think it may be because of the belts tension as I had accidentally over stretched it by putting it over the wheels instead of under: is it worth getting a new belt then?
I use 20% infill, with triangle pattern in cura, using the standard 0.4mm nozzle.
# Edit
After doing a different testprint and measuring, it revealed that both had an accurate 20mm Y and Z, but only an 18.5mm X. Might I have destroyed my belt when I mounted it overstrained?
# Edit2:
After purchasing a new X belt, the calibration cube was much closer at 19 x 20 x 20. But still not at a good enough tolerance for my liking. Additionally, when printing a cylinder, two relatively flat edges were printed with it either side (perpendicular to the x-axis).
# Answer
Your top layer looks like you need to add additional top layers and there are signs of a slight bit of over-extrusion in that top layer (red). On the other hand, it looks like the top layer is not sliced nicely resulting in gaps and holes (yellow), which might be a fault of the test print.
The X on the file you used is not centered, resulting in the off look in the print.
I suggest you try a different calibration print before starting to tinker with the hardware, for example this.
I suggest to use concentric only for the top layers and instead rely on a simple Zig-Zag pattern for the intermediate layers, as this usually generates a better connection to straight walls.
# EDIT1:
After considering the miss-dimension in X only, you might want to look to calibrate your X steps.
The stretching of the belt might be an issue, but you might get away *easy* if you just check belt tension and manage to get it right again.
As I have an ender-3 myself, I know you might need to flash fresh firmware to get the ability to change the steps/mm.
# EDIT2:
The 19x20x20mm cube sounds like the new belt did fix a lot of the dimensioning problem, but the steps/mm might be slightly off - or we have to trace down SOME mechanical error in the movement path. As a 140mm long test print also had a 1mm offset, a steps/mm error should be out.
After examining the machine with jb in chat, the bearing on the X-belt seemed to stick a tiny bit on one side.
Turning the large bolt of the assembly in an attempt to disassemble it without a wrench to hold the self-securing nut on the far side seemed enough to lessen the pressure on the core of the bearing, allowing it to spin freely. In addition, the belt was a little loose.
> 3 votes
# Answer
First, check that the calibration part you have is actually a cube. Maybe you downloaded a trick 'calibration cube' model. Cura will show he overall dimensions of any model which it is slicing.
Ignore any print quality issues first off. A hollow calibration cube is mainly used to check the X/Y/Z motion and so long as you print at a sensible (slow) speed), the other parameters shouldn't have much effect (so long as the first layer is OK, and you get within 30% of the right extrusion).
If the calibration cube is within +/- 0.5mm on each side, it's probably good. Under/over extrusion, caliper technique, etc, can explain this sort of variation, and you might want to use a bigger test part like this star on my thingiverse account once you think you're close.
The 'steps per mm' setting is determined within the firmware, it is part of how your printer consumes G-code. For a delta printer, for example, there is some fancy maths to combine X/Y/Z into the motor movements. This means that you can't change steps/mm in Cura, you need to either change the firmware defaults and 'reset to factory settings', or modify the parameters in EEPROM by sending G-code.
Seeing too small a calibration part (for a Cartesian printer) can easily be explained by problems in the printer's motion system:
* Stepper missing steps due to jerk or acceleration too high
* Stepper missing steps due to binding/friction in the bearings (Send `M84` to idle the stepper motor, and move X by hand)
* Teeth missing on the drive belt (may show up on a diagonal 'bar' print)
* Loose drive pinion (maybe backlash on the flat on the spindle means the problem is greater on small parts) - see below
* Flex in the drive mechanism (e.g. belt mount to traveller is loose)
An annoying feature of a lot of these problems is that for any particular repetitive sequence of steps, you might see a very consistent result. Even thought to problem is something being badly adjusted, it gives the impression that the problem is calibration.
The drive wheel is held in place with a grub screw, see this diagram from the Anet-A8 assembly diagram.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, creality-ender-3
--- |
thread-4251 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4251 | Nozzle jumps off the bed when using Marlin Mesh Bed Leveling | 2017-06-18T00:22:53.940 | # Question
Title: Nozzle jumps off the bed when using Marlin Mesh Bed Leveling
I am using Marlin firmware with a RAMPS board on an Anet A8 printer.
The bed size for the printer is 220 x 220 mm and that is stated in the `configuration.h` file. When using mesh bed leveling, the nozzle jumps to the first corner on the bed perfectly after setting the x-min to 5.0 but the next two points are off the end of the bed. Here are my settings:
```
// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
#define X_MIN_POS 5.0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0.0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS 220
#define Y_MAX_POS 220
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
What could be my issue?
# Answer
> 7 votes
---
*None of the answers address your question to solve it! The only sensible contribution comes from a comment of @TomvanderZanden.*
---
For the sensor to stay *within* the limits of the bed (considering the offset of the sensor and the size of the hotend carriage) you need to define where the sensor (plus carriage) may go to (to keep the sensor also on the bed, you also need to define the sensor limits). The suggested constants are important in defining the size of the bed and the build volume, but changing them does in fact do not solve your problem. Your problem is that you need to address where the sensor may probe within that specified volume i.e. the sensor probing area.
I use ABL (Auto Bel Leveling) on my Anet A8 using a left-front mounted sensor at position (`x = -26 mm`; `y = -40 mm` seen from the nozzle center). In order to have the sensor on the bed area without running into the limits of the carriage, you have to calculate (yourself!) what the dimension of the auto bed leveling area is. This is because the sensor is off set from the nozzle. If the sensor reaches for the whole bed, you need extra space on the axis. To explain this, if your **sensor is at the left front**, as in my case, the amount of extra space you have **left on the right side** of the X carriage will determine how far the carriage may go and thus limits the right probe position. If there is no extra space on the carriage (the safest assumption) you just need to add the sensor offset to the maximum bed size (what the nozzle can reach). E.g. my probe X offset is `-26 mm`. The maximum probe distance is therefore `-26 mm + 220 mm = 194 mm`.
This means that you need to set the following constants (amongst the settings to enable ABL; the probe and the type of leveling...) in the configuration.h of your Marlin Firmware installation:
```
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -26 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -40 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (0 + 10) // 10
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (220 - 26 - 10) // 184
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (220 - 40 - 10) // 170
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (0 + 10) // 10
```
Furthermore the settings you do mention need to be:
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -33 // Distance from end switch to X = 0 of origin
#define Y_MIN_POS -10 // Distance from end switch to Y = 0 of origin
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
The `-33` and the `-10` define how much the nozzle needs to travel from the endstop position to the print origin! This is not necessary to change when using ABL with a sensor (unless you are using a different print head carriage with a different center of the nozzle). Why these values are `-33` and `-10` (or values close to this; e.g. for my printer they are `-36` and `-8`) is explained in this answer.
# Answer
> -1 votes
The problem is in the code. Please use these:
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 5
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
Your problem will be ok.
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8, bed-leveling
--- |
thread-6879 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6879 | Does Octoprint stop printing on Crash Detection? | 2018-09-11T05:34:32.090 | # Question
Title: Does Octoprint stop printing on Crash Detection?
A corner of my model curled up, causing the head to crash into it. The Prusa MK3 detected the error, printed a message to that effect, and moved the print head to the home position.
I was surprised when printing immediately resumed, and of course immediately went awry as it pulled the model off the print bed and dragged it around.
My questions:
* Is it expected that printing stops when a head crash is detected?
* If so, does Octoprint recognize this condition and stop printing?
# Answer
You are describing precisely how the crash detection should work on the Prusa Mk3, so it is doing exactly what it should do. If you look into this video from Jozef Prusa you will see him explaining that in case a crash is detected (steps missed are registered because the Mk3 uses trinamic stepper drivers), the print head is homed and will immediately restart printing.
Please do read this interesting post; it describes your similar problems: after detection it resumes. He noteworthy mentions that even a few lines of G-code went missing, this is probably caused by the fact that OctoPrint buffers a few commands or something that get lost because the Pruse Mk3 crash fail safe kicks in.
In effect, OctoPrint is just a simple supplier of G-code commands and does not recognize the problem to act on it and will therefore continue sending new commands after the Prusa Mk3 crash has recovered (sending `ok` to OctoPrint for receiving new commands) from the crash and re-homed and got the temperatures back to normal levels.
An existing plugin for OctoPrint may help you in this case. The Action Trigger Plugin is able to detect events, but have to be implemented in your firmware. E.g. the action for filament describes:
> This trigger will pause the print and home the X and Y axis, giving the user the opportunity to change out the filament. The print needs to be resumed manually through the UI.
Maybe it can be configured to pick up the existing event and issue a pause. It could be worth looking into this.
---
**EDIT**
Looking closer to the ActionTrigger plugin I noticed that you cannot configure it and the "manual" is very terse. I guess this might involve some serious hacking...
> 5 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, octoprint
--- |
thread-6829 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6829 | Leapfrog Creatr HS stops mid print (extruders not clogged) | 2018-09-04T12:55:05.430 | # Question
Title: Leapfrog Creatr HS stops mid print (extruders not clogged)
I have tried to print a 3D model with Creatr HS from Leapfrog. This print failed twice. The 3D model is the same, .gcode the same. Surprisingly it failed at different stage. Please look at the pictures. You can see the place where extruder was when print stopped.
I checked the filament and extruders, it is NOT a problem here. Extruders are not clogged, filament is not tangled nor blocked. Stepper motors stopped working, anyway the display shows that print progresses.
I have created a ticket for this issue on Leapfrog support page, but had an answer that this printer is no longer supported.
Does anyone has an idea what could be the core of the problem?
**EDIT**
Today I have tried print again to observe and answer questions from the comments. Observations are:
\- The process suddenly stops
\- Hotend cools down (you can observe it on the picture below - I am using left extruder - as you can see it shows 24/0; 24 is actual hotend temp, 0 - wanted temperature )
\- Display shows that print is progressing even faster than it would happen when everything is fine (maybe this is not important)
**EDIT2**
I have opened the printer to see what is happening inside. The electronics is divided into 2 PCBs. One is an 'heavy job workhorse' (drivers and some logics), the other is a Olimex A20-Olinuxino-Micro. The pendrive with .gcode is connected to this board as well as the display and control joystick (actually encoder).
One of the USB ports from Olinuxino is connected to 'workhorse' board. Next to the USB port here you can see Rx/Tx diodes.
**Observations:**
When the print is in active state, two Rx/Tx diodes located on workhorse PCB blinking occasionally (mainly when there is a print head direction change), what brings the suggestion, that the data comes from Olinuxino PCB. When the print stops, these two diodes are blinking rapidly. I am thinking that there is some problem with Olimex board (it is sending uncontrolled data or data is being send too quick).
Below you can see image of drivers board with Rx/Tx diodes continuously on. There is also another Rx/Tx pair and these are also both on.
I'm going to do some search on Olinuxino board/system.
**EDIT 3**
Finding: During board and temperature check I have found that the fan cooling bottom Olimex pcb is dead. I have took it out, connect to +24V and... no spinning.
I have replaced the fan to a new one. Also, I have created a 20mm box model for printing, sliced it and tried to print it. No success here. After 2 lines of print sudden stop and Rx/Tx blink. I have downloaded model of Marvin, sliced it and tried to print: all ok!
Also I want to know if the data is continuously fetched from USB or loaded to Olinuxino and then used to print. So, started the Marvin print, removed USB from Creatr HS and yes, the print continues until the end. I am thinking that the data must be stored in Olimex memory and then fetched and fed to drivers PCB. Question is: where in Olimex the data is stored? Is lack of fan (and possibly overheat) damaged it slightly? If this is stored in onboard NAND memory it could cause a problem after a long time - it has 100 000 write/erase cycles.
New board would be a solution, unfortunately Leapfrog ran out of them. Olimex is selling boards, will try to buy one. I hope that different revision will work.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have solved the problem. After some investigation I have decided to connect directly to the drivers board. It needs to be disconnected from Olimex board and instead connected to the PC, then select 250kbps speed, COM port can be found through Device manager. I have used Repetier-Host in not Easy Mode and all possible messages turned on to see all possible messages. Then I prepared 20mm box to print and tried to print. After two lines voila! Error message:
```
12:35:32.401 : N187 M105*41
12:35:32.841 : Error:0
12:35:32.841 : : Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !
12:35:32.924 : Error:Printer stopped due to errors.
Fix the error and use M999 to restart!. (Temperature is reset. Set it before restarting)
```
Now I went for quick search and learned that this can be caused by intermittent fault of thermistor or its wiring. So, I disconnected thermistor from the PCB and checked its resistance: 170kohm. Now, when I moved the extruders on X axis there was a particular position when thermistor resistance went to infinity. There is a connector in head which went loose. After refitting the printer is behaving correctly.
**Summary:**
It is a shame, that the display on this machine does not present any feedback from the drivers board. Also, the PC connectivity on the rear of this printer does not bring any clear information (rear USB is first connected to the Olimex PCB and then to the drivers PCB, some information from drivers PCB are lost). BTW: Leapfrog drivers board is an Arduino based Marlin firmware. Info sent to serial connection after connectivity established is:
```
Leapfrog Firmware: 2.5
Model: CreatrHS
PROTOCOL_VERSION: 1.0
FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1;
Extruder offset X: 15.23 Y: 0.02
```
---
Tags: print-quality
--- |
thread-403 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/403 | How do I wire the z-axis motors in parallel on the Prusa i3? | 2016-01-26T18:20:41.537 | # Question
Title: How do I wire the z-axis motors in parallel on the Prusa i3?
There is a little circuit board, or breadboard or something in the diagram of the wiring for the i3.
And it's mentioned that the z-axis motors need to be wired in parallel but beyond that they don't give you much detail about parts or how the wires go in.
Can someone provide me with some more detail on this?
# Answer
> 10 votes
In the diagram, they do show the wires connecting together, which is right. You can accomplish that just about any way you like, so long as you pair up the wires correctly from one motor to the other.
I'm assuming both "Z" motors are the same type and have the same color-coding for their wires. If not, you'll need to figure out the correspondences first (you may want to post another question if you need a hand with that, since it's pretty specific and generally useful).
Many control boards have "headers" sticking up, with 4 bare pins for each motor. Connectors that plug right onto those are readily available, such as at https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10364.
Some ways you can wire the motors in parallel:
* Some control boards, like my RAMPS 1.4, provide 2 sets of header pins next to the Z stepper driver board. In that case, just put a connector on each motor (if they're not there already), and plug them in next to each other.
* If there's just one set of header pins (or one Z-motor socket of some other kind) on your controller, make a "Y-cord" by soldering the wires from one connector (that plugs to the controller) to *2* 4 pin connectors, one to mate with each motor.
* Or you can skip the 2 extra connectors entirely, and just solder the motor wires to the wires from the connector: 2 reds to red, 2 blacks to black, or whatever.
* If your controller just has empty holes, either solder in header pins and do as above (preferred, IMHO), or wire directly into the holes, splicing the 2 sets of motor wires if there's only one set of holes.
Motor and connector wires are wildly inconsistent, so make sure you get them sorted out right if they aren't already. The first thing is to check continuity: find 2 pairs of wires, which are the ends of two separate coils. If your motors have more than 4 wires it's trickier.
With RAMPS (see handy diagram RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield),
the 4 pins are commonly labelled (starting from the one nearest the power-supply end of the RAMPS board):
```
2B 2A 1A 1B
```
It means coil 1 and coil 2, each of which has ends A and B. I find this unclear because it could just as well have been numbers for the coils, and letters for the ends (if you wire it that way it won't work). So be sure you have continuity (maybe 15 ohms or so) between the wires you connect to 2B and 2A, and between the wires you connect to 1A and 1B.
The *really good thing* about this pin order is that if a motor is running backwards all you have to do is power off and then turn the plug around. That's one reason I think it's important to keep connectors in there, rather than soldering directly.
# Answer
> 8 votes
For some unknown reason, everywhere everybody is saying that Z stepper motors need to be connected in parallel... And this was always the only obvious way, until recently some people started to connect these motors in series.
And I personally started to believe the right way is to connect them in series.
All stepstick drivers are some kind of current limiting devices (you could read more about chopper mode). It is all about current. Connecting in series will guarantee that both motors receive the same current in all situations. And as result you could expect the same behaviour from both of them.
The bad thing when they are in parallel, is that the motor with the bigger load will get more current and as a result the other one will get less current and could skip steps. Of course, in an ideal situation, this should never happen but don't forget about Murphy's law ("whatever can go wrong, will go wrong").
One more thing - why did I change my wiring and connected my Z motors in series: At some moment I found that one Z motor was disconnected but the other one was working and this resulted in a broken printer geometry. When Z motors are in series and if one of them fails or disconnects, the other one will not work either. You will get always synchronous operation from both of them!
I made this Z splitter that works fantastic:
---
Tags: ramps-1.4, prusa-i3, printer-building, z-axis, nema-17
--- |
thread-6860 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6860 | 3D printer ends print by sinking in to it and getting stuck | 2018-09-07T11:23:42.370 | # Question
Title: 3D printer ends print by sinking in to it and getting stuck
I am using cura with M3D entry level printer.
When I print things more than 6-7cm/2.5-3inches, at the end of the print, the hot end sink back into the print then gets stuck as it tries to return to idle position.
Please see the attached photo. Has anyone had this problem? Thank you
The last 20 lines of gcode is:
```
G0 X50.83 Y49.982
G1 F600 X50.541 Y49.975 E4399.62304
G1 X50.268 Y49.985 E4399.62637
G1 X49.999 Y49.999 E4399.63024
G1 X49.73 Y50.012 E4399.6341
G1 X49.457 Y50.023 E4399.63742
G1 X49.168 Y50.016 E4399.63941
G0 F7200 X49.28 Y49.87
;TIME_ELAPSED:6301.614981
G1 F1500 E4393.13941
M107
M104 S0
M140 S0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
M104 S0
;End of Gcode
```
# Answer
> 1 votes
As Oscar commented, check the tail end of your gcode files. Most slicing software includes commands to move the head to x=0,y=0 at the very least. I am a bit surprised that your files don't appear to have this, since Cura does apply said code.
Possiblly there's something lacking in your printer's firmware and it doesn't recognize some of the gcode commands.
# Answer
> 4 votes
As can be seen from the G-code file, the head is instructed to travel to x=0, y=0 (`G28 X0 Y0` is actually a homing instruction to home the head and label the position with zero X and zero Y). After that it powers off the motors (`M84`).
From your picture, it looks like the head digs in the print without moving to the home position, so `G28 X0 Y0` is **not working** (although you mention it tries to move while digging in?!?). That is strange as there is no instruction to lower the head. Please alter `G28` to `G0` so that it reads:
```
G0 X0 Y0
```
(or `G1 X0 Y0` which does work and will instruct the head to move).
The digging into the print could be explained by the weight of the head/carriage that cannot be held when the steppers are not powered anymore (as instructed by `M84`). When the nozzle is hot, the nozzle will then dig into your print.
---
**Edit**:
Now that I see your comment on another answer, your proprietary software may produce different G-code than Cura does, this could imply that your printer does not use a "standard" G-code interpreter or does not implement all G-codes.
# Answer
> 2 votes
For some reason the `G28` command to home X and Y is not having an effect. I wonder if there is something 'special' in the firmware that affects how it homes.
You can try to replace the G28 with a move (and maybe a different location would be better to place the extruder in the best position for removing your print).
```
G1 X0 Y0 ;Move to home position
```
Best would be to look at one of the included 'pre sliced' models that are usually included with a printer to check the manufacturer's default end sequence.
You might also be able to configure Cura to move up at the end of the print (so long as the print is not at maximum height).
# Answer
> 2 votes
From the provided G-code:
```
G28 X0 Y0
```
The meaning of the `G28` code is move printhead to home. In theory, the presence or absence of `X`, `Y`, and `Z` values are used to indicate which axes the printhead should move on, but as the RepRap wiki notes, some printers ignore this, typically interpreting any `G28` code as "move to 0,0,0". In particular:
> Because the behavior of G28 is unspecified, it is recommended not to automatically include G28 in your ending GCode. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use G0 or G1.
You should probably replace the code with `G1 X0 Y0 Z[value near the top of your printer]`. You could simply replace `G28 X0 Y0` with `G1 X0 Y0`, but that risks dragging the tip of the nozzle across the upper surface of the finished print.
---
Tags: print-quality
--- |
thread-6853 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6853 | Route to transform 2d image (depth map) into a curved bracelet (and STL file)? | 2018-09-06T22:12:11.863 | # Question
Title: Route to transform 2d image (depth map) into a curved bracelet (and STL file)?
I've got a bracelet concept that I've sketched up as a flat design. I'm trying to found a route by which I can extrude this into a 3d object (depth map?), curve it into a bracelet, then ultimately create a STL file out of it. I'm having trouble finding a way to do this that allows me to "warp" the flat object into a bracelet before I try to print.
Is there a recommend technique for this? I'm not worried about representation of the picture; it's effectively meant to be an 'etched' pattern.
# Answer
Easy peasy. Go to 3dp.rocks and select the output shape you desire. I've had excellent results making flat lithopanes. I created a couple curved STLs which look fine in Cura; just didn't print them.
> 1 votes
# Answer
This may not be your cuppa tea, but if you're willing to learn to use OpenSCAD or already know how, there's a Thingiverse post that appears to directly address your objective.
Correction, this particular post on Thingiverse consists of a series of Python files, of which I have zero experience/qualifications. It may still be of value, if you are Python capable.
Another resource that is strictly OpenSCAD is from Eric Buijs, a rather talented 3D design person. His YouTube channel has a number of useful tutorials for both OpenSCAD and Solvespace. This video in particular describes applying a flat object to a curved one using OpenSCAD, resulting in a lithophane.
As I created this answer, I did not re-watch the 12+ minute video, but I recall how he explains clearly how the program dissects the surface into a number of flat panels and then superimposes the image on each segment. From this presentation, I suspect one could expand to a full cylinder.
> 3 votes
# Answer
This is the best and simplest way I've found to transform a flat design into a 3D object that you can then save as an STL file: Blender-Converting 2D Image to 3D Object
This solution requires you to use Blender and Inkscape, both softwares are open-source and available for free at this time.
As suggested below by @Greenonline, I will provide a step by step in case the video is removed from Youtube. I'm sorry that I cannot provide screenshots at the moment, but I'm on a trip and writing from an old laptop that cannot run either Blender or Inkscape.
1. Load your image in Inkscape.
* Format is unimportant as long as Inkscape can read it. It works with black and white and color images, but please note that color information won't be sent to Blender in the end, you'll have to add color materials yourself once the picture has been converted to a 3D object.
2. Select the image or the portion of it that you want to turn into a 3D object.
* For some unknown reason, Inkscape doesn't automatically select the image you loaded into it, so you have to do it manually. When the image is selected, it will be surrounded by a dotted line and you'll see arrows appear on the sides and corners.
3. Go to Path \> Trace Bitmap, or use Shift+Alt+B, and a pop-up window will appear. Keep the default settings, just make sure that the 'Remove background' option, located at the bottom of the window, is checked, then click OK.
* You can see the result of the operation in the 'Preview' window. If the 'Preview' is empty, just click on the 'Update' button located below 'Preview'. If it is still empty after you clicked on 'Update', then you haven't selected your picture as indicated in Step 2!
4. Got to File \> Save As and save your file as 'Plain svg'.
* Saving as 'Inkscape svg' should work as well, but it's always best to use the standard format.
And you're done with Inkscape, time to switch to Blender.
5. Go to File \> Import \> Scalable Vector Graphics (.svg) and import the picture you just created in Inkscape.
* If you do not see Scalable Vector Graphics (.svg) in the list of importable files, it means the add-on hasn't been activated. You can do it by going to File \> User Preferences \> Add-ons then typing 'svg' in the search field will bring up the relevant add-on (Import-Export: Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG) format). Clicking the checkbox next to it's name will automatically activate it.
* The picture will usually appear very small in Blender. Press 5 on the numeric keyboard to home onto it, then you can stretch it to the desired size by using the relevant tools in Blender.
* It might be a good idea to move the object center into the middle of the geometry, although, from personal experience, you can do it after it becomes 3D without too much trouble.
6. Your picture has been loaded in Blender as a Curve object. Go to the 'Curve' tab and in the 'Geometry' sub-menu you can use the 'Extrude' slider to give depth to your picture.
7. Finally, once you've extruded your curve to your satisfaction, go to Object \> Convert To \> Mesh from Curve/Meta/Surf/Text, or use Alt+C, and voila, you're done!
You know have a nice 3D object made of polygons that you can modify at your leisure using Blender's tools.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, stl
--- |
thread-6886 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6886 | Print speed and settings for printing below 0.1mm resolution on PLA | 2018-09-11T18:40:57.507 | # Question
Title: Print speed and settings for printing below 0.1mm resolution on PLA
I recently purchased an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus delta printer, and I'm interested in trying to print slightly below the 0.1 mm stated lower limit of layer height. I'm not interested in trying to push much below 0.06 mm, more just 0.08 mm to give some better surface roughness on critical parts.
I've found several articles that suggest that going below 0.1 mm requires lowering the printing speed, but the top answer on this question suggests that there are flow rates to consider in order to prevent jamming.
I'm referring to PLA in particular as I have read that the filament viscosity is also a factor, with ABS differing from PLA.
I'm interested in some benchmark settings, preferably for 0.08 mm printing. What is the ballpark range my print speed should be in to successfully print at that height?
# Answer
To answer this question for anyone who will find this of use, I printed this calibration cube at 25mm to a side (125% scale in Cura) with my Kossel Plus using the following settings:
* 0.08 mm layer height
* 45 mm/s print speed
* 200°C extruder temperature with PLA
Based on articles I read, I wanted to play it safe with the speed, staying well below the printer's rated speed of 60 mm/s, but still keeping the speed reasonably high to avoid any nozzle flow issues as describe in the linked question. The results were pretty good for a first test; the deviations, as measured with calipers:
* X: -0.09 mm
* Y: +0.38 mm
* Z: +0.11 mm
This makes the average deviation across all axes about 0.13 mm, which is better than what I was hoping for, as that is about 5/3 of a layer's thickness. Whether or not running slower (or faster) or modifying temperature will result in better accuracy, I cannot be sure - but in this case, running the speed conservatively yielded positive results.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: pla, delta, layer-height
--- |
thread-6890 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6890 | Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing? | 2018-09-12T00:02:34.023 | # Question
Title: Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?
Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?
If not, is there any tool can convert it to another format such as STL, OBJ, STEP, and IGES?
# Answer
> 3 votes
As far as can be found it should be possible to convert glTF into STL (or OBJ).
You could try to use an online converter to do this, e.g. this one (greentoken); and this (assimp) may be useful too.
According to this greentoken supports glTF as input and STL as output, but it is reported by @Trish that that does not work. Assimp could output STL files which then could be used by slicer programs to generate the specific G-code file to print the model on your printer.
# Answer
> 4 votes
No, `gltf` is not a format that slicers accept commonly, and indeed, it is not even intended to be reverseable in the 1.0 format version. This has changed a little for the 2.0 standard. Some programs that allow exporting into the sliceable `stl` and `obj` formats can also import `gltf`:
You have to be careful though: formats like `dae` or `stl` are meant to transfer 3d objects usually without the loss of information or with just a minimal loss (stl, for example, does technically not contain a *scale* natively), while `gltf` is end users and does not contain all the information. This can lead to models getting distorted and destroyed on importing them into a rendering or modeling software.
---
Tags: 3d-design
--- |
thread-5241 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5241 | Why all the excitement about linear rails? | 2018-01-07T22:57:58.193 | # Question
Title: Why all the excitement about linear rails?
Whenever a 3D printer that uses linear rails is announced (case in point: the cetus), the Internet (well... at least that corner of it dealing with 3D printing) gets abuzz with excitement.
I researched a bit the topic myself, and while I understand that linear rails can be produced to a fantastic degree of precision for super-heavy machinery, it escapes my comprehension why they are considered superior "by default", relative to the classic linear bearings on a shaft.
3D printing is a lightweight application, and the motion of at least 2 axis does not happen against a solid surface (where you could bolt a linear rail every few cm) but suspended between the 2 ends of the axis. Furthermore, the internals of the bearings used on linear rails are substantially identical to those used on a shaft.
The cetus site says under the heading "Quality Linear Rails":
> Self-lubricated | Maintenance Free | High Precision | Long Lifespan | Quiet
but this - in my experience - can be said of "Quality Linear Bearings on a Shaft" as well, and in some cases even bushing deliver to a high standard on 3D printers.
So, what am I missing?
# Answer
> 17 votes
The following is a compilation of the input from a number of sources.
Linear rails in general are mechanical components that - when designing equipment - offer great flexibility.
**The profile of the rail can be designed in nearly infinite ways.** This in turn allows for:
* *Different levels of stiffness in different directions* (for example you may have stresses only on a given plane, or you may actually want the rail to slightly flex in one plane but not in another one).
* *Placing the surfaces for the rollers strategically*, for example in a location that is unlikely to get contaminated, or where the maximum force will be applied.
* *Curved paths*, so that the carriage can move along a line that is not straight.
Because the contact surface between the rollers and the bearings is flat, **cylinders can be used instead of spheres**. This in turns diminishes the mechanical stresses, and the amount of play, increases longevity and allows for more bearing capacity, among others.
Linear rails **can be anchored along their full length**, rather that at their extremes, thus increasing the accuracy of their positioning, their stiffness and their bearing capacity.
Linear rails **can be machined while pre-loaded**, thus achieving maximum accuracy when in use, rather than when coming out of the factory.
**The bearings on a linear rail only allow for one degree of movement**. There need to be two rods with linear bearings/bushes to achieve the same result.
All that said, **when it comes to the specific application of consumer-grade FDM 3D printers, it seems that none of the above is very relevant, nor confers any real advantage to the printer in terms of quality of the final print**:
* the mechanical stresses involved in 3D printing are very small,
* the movements all happen along straight lines,
* most of the axis cannot be anchored to a large, rigid body,
* ...
On the other hand, the design with rods + linear bearings is cheap, effective, simpler and lightweight, all characteristics that are highly desirable in a 3D printer.
All in all, **it seems that there is no good reason to prefer linear rails over rods *in general***.
Still, there may be *specific* designs that may benefit from their adoption. I postulate that the Cetus printer linked in the question may be such a design: the cantilever arrangement of its axis - for example - is well served by the fact that a single rail locks movement in all but one direction, and the orientation of the X rail offers maximum rigidity against the action of gravity.
# Answer
> -1 votes
Linear rails will always produce a high degree of accuracy and stability and more so than round rod with PTFE bushings and/or bearings.
One may argue the fact however even as a product developer and one who is involved with the mechanicals and development of machinery on a day to day basis comparing the two we see “significant” improvements using rails over rods and if properly utilized on a Z axis print bed you will have a bed free of leveling issues that can smoothly and accurately operate with one driver versus two.
I will further add that getting rods aligned perfectly is a difficult task for the average person and even a slight twist or angular position can affect final print quality. I’ve seen many linear rods that appear visually straight and when chucked into a lathe spindle with 0.0000 accuracy there will be 0.005 or more in runout. In fact I’ve yet to see one perfecting concentric motion that is longer than 6 inches. This tells me that they cannot plausibly be as accurate and that while they may function they will never function with a high degree of accuracy.
Do we need higher accuracy in 3D printer axis? Sure we can have quality control boards that compensate to some degree however the mechanics of the machine are utmost important before you choose the quality of board and software. Why install a \\$300 motion control on a cheap linear rod printer if you’re not going to see the full benefits?
With technology further advancing into 64 bit and eventually 128 bit and higher degrees of precisional accuracy 3D printing is turning a page and will if not already be capable of micro resolutional accuracy and can only do so if all the components function properly together.
So sure, your rod guided printer works. However, it will never work as well as my linear rail guided printer with ballscrews and servos. You can have your layered fuzzy prints. I will keep my smooth finished injection molded looking parts that are made from materials a typical desktop cannot even print. So to argue it’s not needed is arguing that high quality isn’t accepted in a lower price point market.
One other addition here. Ask yourself how level and square is your printer? I’m not talking about using a carpenter's level for checking your machine they can be inaccurate up to a 1/4” per 10 feet. When you can dial your printers bed down to 0.00005 or less every direction and your structure is just as accurate than you know what a quality printer and print looks like.
I guarantee no printer priced \\$300-\\$1000 comes even close to that degree of accuracy. The average consumer is so drawn into the technology of a final print itself they overlook the precisional aspects involved and learn to settle for less. Then you wouldn’t expect your \\$500 printer to compete with my \\$10,000 printer either.
Bottom line you get what you pay for.
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Tags: hardware, axis, linear-motion
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thread-6904 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6904 | Does auto leveling result in sheared prints? | 2018-09-13T05:57:50.193 | # Question
Title: Does auto leveling result in sheared prints?
*I asked this question as a small question under an answer of another question (How bed leveling is achieved without table screws?), but have been asked to post this as a separate question to answer it with more detail conform SE policy.*
---
One question with respect to automatic bed leveling (also known as ABL): If the bed is tilted and the auto leveling measured this and then the printer adjust the z axis over the position on the bed, will a x-y-point on the first layer be located exactly under the (in model) same x-y-point in a higher layer, or will it be shifted to? I mean, if the bed is 1 mm lower on one side over 10 cm then a top corner of a 10-cm-cube should be also 1 mm shifted, so that the cube still is real cubic and not sheared.
# Answer
> 8 votes
Using automatic bed leveling assists you in getting the print to stick better to the build platform as a result of the print head following the non-uniform geometry or tilt of the build plate.
In, e.g. Marlin Firmware, the bed level correction is fading out over a predefined distance, this is determined by the constant `#define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT` in the printer firmware Configuration.h file and the height can be set with `M420 Z<height>` (see here).
> ```
> M420 S1 ; Enable compensation using current grid/mesh
> M420 Z10 ; Gradually reduce compensation until Z=10
>
> ```
If Z equals zero, leveling compensation will be fully applied to all layers of the print object.
Yes, a cube will not be perfectly cubic, that is why even with auto bed leveling you need to provide a bed as level as possible, it only should correct for very small deviations.
When the print is smaller than the fade out height, you would indeed get a sheared print, if larger, then the top of the print would be level with respect to the reference plane (machine true; this is the level of the X-Y plane, basically the level of the hot end carriage). Note that that still can be skew if the printer is improperly calibrated (e.g. when using 2 Z steppers or misalignment of the height on either side).
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Tags: bed-leveling
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thread-6902 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6902 | Unknown issue affecting print quality | 2018-09-12T22:55:02.340 | # Question
Title: Unknown issue affecting print quality
I have been having issues with a vase print using a FlashForge Creator Pro. I am using the default slicer for the printer(FlashPrint) because the Creator Pro only accepts `.x3g` rather than `.g`/`.gcode`.
The issue is that the printer seems to be both under extruding and over extruding.
I am printing ASA filament at 0.18 mm layer height at 240 °C with a heated bed at 110 °C. I am running the print with the fan on. I am also running at 80 mm/s print speed.
I have tried both lowering and raising the temperature, changing the print speed from 80 mm/s to 60 mm/s, and changing the extrusion multiplier.
At this point I am not really sure what to do in order to get this to print nicely, any advice would be welcome.
---
After a few more prints and the link that "E-Doe" posted I am beginning to think that the problem might be with the z-axis. My reason for thinking this is that the layers that bulge out do so consistently for the entire layer and then stop for a bit. I think I also ruled out temperature variation. I measured the temperature in the enclosure with a separate device and it stayed pretty constant the whole time.
Not really sure how to fix that but I will call this question answered.
# Answer
A very helpful page for troubleshooting common errors is: Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide \- Lines on the Side of Print
It seems like your problem is inconsistent extrusion or temperature variation. From the photo you posted I guess that you use a big diameter nozzle. Keep in mind that your extruder might not be well equipped to deliver such a large amount of plastic consistently. This most likely is a problem with the heating capacity.
You can try to lower the speed even more to give your extruder more time to heat the plastic.
> 6 votes
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Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting, extrusion, asa, flashforge-creator
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thread-4945 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4945 | Outputting an STL file that contains multiple objects for import into Blender | 2017-11-11T15:17:25.430 | # Question
Title: Outputting an STL file that contains multiple objects for import into Blender
I want to print a object that looks like a flat board with a set of matchbox-like lumps on top of it.
I have written a script that outputs an STL file. To keep the script simple, it creates an object that includes non-manifold edges. To be precise, the board and the boxes are a single model, but each has 6 faces made from 2 triangles. The underside of each matchbox rests on the top of the larger flat board.
If I understand correctly, the top face of the board should be broken up into many smaller triangles to take into account the position of the matchboxes, but coding this by hand (although it might be an interesting Exercise For The Reader) would not be a good use of time. Well-written code that already does this is built into FOSS applications like Blender.
However, Blender cannot merge or fuse shapes that are part of the same object. My current understanding is that I will need to:
1. Provide Blender with multiple objects
2. Select all the objects
3. Use Ctrl-J to merge them
4. Export the world in STL format
Is this a valid approach?
If so, my key question is: how do I format the STL file so that Blender will recognize that it contains multiple separate objects?
(I have found references to STL files containing multiple objects, but I have seen nothing in any of the STL files that I have examined that tells me: here is the end of one object and the beginning of another.)
Or should I just be clunky and export two STL files — one for the board and one for all the matchboxes — and then import both into Blender?
---
NOTE: I know that there are free services like Netfabb that will correct my simple files for me, but I would prefer not to include that in my workflow if possible.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Blender imports all STL files as if they are a single object. If you have multiple meshes in the object that you want to be separated, you can press tab to enter edit mode, select the parts that need to be separated, then hit P and separate by selected.
If you want to print those pieces as one part you have to get rid of any internal faces. The easiest way to do that is to select an object and then use the boolean modifier in union mode. Once you have the object that you want to fuse selected and in place, apply the modifier, that should leave you with an object without internal faces.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I think there's an easier way to do this - *if* you're not committed to using Blender, and it sounds as if you're not.
Take a look at http://www.openscad.org/ (which should run anywhere that Blender does). It's very easy to write code to produce your desired shape (in this case it would be a union of cuboids) in OpenSCAD's description language, and then you can use OpenSCAD itself to render that to STL. (It's even possible to automate this from the command line.)
# Answer
> 0 votes
Let's look at it...
It's something like this: a closed box with protrusions that have no inner surface. like this cobbled together thing.
Let's just for fun export it as a .stl. yes, a single .stl file. And now open it in MeshMixer:
Looks not half bad, right? But a red box? What shall that mean? look at the blender model again: Oh right, the normals on those surfaces are backwards! `W` `F` in blender flips the normals, reexport the .stl, reload into MeshMixer!
Now we are talking! Let's look how we can fix this... `Edit > Make Solid` with a high `Solid Accuracy` with both a high `Solid Accuracy` and `Mesh Density` results in reasonable sharp corners and... DANG! One solid body, all neatly closed.
Now, test: Export (`ctrl+E`) and import into blender.
Yet, we got a problem: this thing that had been 11 faces and 16 vertices became almost 1.2 million vertices and 2.4 million faces. This surely can be condensed some, but we just achieved a well printable merge of the objects.
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Tags: stl, file-formats, blender
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thread-6883 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6883 | (Cura setting) How can I fix this? No top layer | 2018-09-11T15:35:51.963 | # Question
Title: (Cura setting) How can I fix this? No top layer
**problem solved by resetting cura.**
I have problems like this: How can I fix this? I can't find the right setting.
Also, what are these yellow lines? Do you know how to remove them? They disappear when I disable to show the brim/raft/skirt.
# Answer
This problem appears when a face is inverted, so the slicer confuses and expect the other wall to close the object. So you need to reverse that face to show the face out and the back face inside the shape to be filled
*I will edit this answer with more examples*
> 2 votes
# Answer
I'm pretty sure the yellow lines are showing the full path of the extruder head, including where it's retracted. Somewhere in Cura's maze of menus, there's an option to turn on/off various displays related to the slicing.
As to why the top layer isn't there -- most likely it's too thin in your source model. You might try enabling "Print thin walls" options in the Preferences advanced list. BTW, if you post the original STL or CAD file, we might be able to provide more accurate diagnosis.
> 4 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, software
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thread-6912 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6912 | Which is a more accurate linear motion system? | 2018-09-14T12:25:02.543 | # Question
Title: Which is a more accurate linear motion system?
If someone looking for accuracy, which is the better linear motion system:
* Maker slide,
* Smooth rod - bearing,
* Linear guide way,
* V slot,
* Open rail
Please let me know if there's a better one other than above list.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I used a few different linear rail systems in my build:
They all seem to work pretty well. The one problem I had was with the igus slides, which I found had a little too much play -- so each change of direction on X had a slight backlash, from the "cars" twisting a tiny bit within the rails. I improved that with careful tuning: shifting the rails a tiny bit farther apart, so they kept the cars under a little tension against the inner sides of the rail -- some call this "preloading".
I think systems that use actual bearings should generally be more accurate than spring-loaded slides. But the igus rails are still pretty good, and they're quite light, compact, and reasonably priced. I still use them, though once in a while I think about swapping them out to do a serious comparison.
The rails aren't the only factor in accuracy, though. I can't detect any play or warp in my Y rails, but that says nothing about accuracy and repeatability of motion *along* them. That's controlled by the motor and the belt, leadscrew, or other things actually moving them. Leadscrews, in particular, vary quite a bit in accuracy, depending on the shape of their threads, the kind of "nut" riding on them, and other factors.
You can even make your own leadscrew system from just a threaded rod and a nut -- but those threads are not the same, and they allow far more play than a real leadscrew does. Nice article on the "backlash" problem at https://www.liutaiomottola.com/Tools/Backlash.htm.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, linear-motion
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thread-3417 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3417 | How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board? | 2017-01-17T13:49:49.177 | # Question
Title: How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?
If I *accidentally* reverse the polarity of my power supply to the RAMPS board, what *exactly* will be damaged?
Will it harm my:
* RAMPS;
* Arduino Mega;
* Stepper motor and/or drivers, or;
* Any other electronic part(s)?
Will all or some of them be permanently damaged?
# Answer
> 3 votes
### Polyfuses on the RAMPS
Fire appears to be the immediate issue, in the poly fuses.
From Reddit: reversed polarity, RAMPS on fire
> Sooo I made the dumb mistake of reversing the polarity from my psu into the RAMPS 1.4. As warned the ramps did not like this and smoke began to rise from the board. I am pretty sure I saw smoke only coming from the two ptc fuses (big flat yellow ones).
### Replacing poly fuses
Note: Older RAMPS 1.4 have easily replaceable large poly fuses, whereas the RAMPS 1.5/1.6 use SMD poly fuses, see 0scar's answer to RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?
---
### Arduino
According to this user, the MOSFETs *and* the Arduino Mega's regulator can be fried as well:
> it most likely fried the mosfets next to the fuses and probably the voltage regulator on your arduino.
However, the fried regulator would only affect the Arduino's operation if powered through the power socket, or VIN (which the RAMPS board uses to power the Arduino Mega). However, via the USB it should still work. See this post, on the same thread:
> The voltage regulator is only needed if you supply power to the arduino via the Vin pin or with a separate power adapter. The RAMPS board does supply the Vin pin with 12V.
So, you would probably have to rely on powering the Arduino via the USB and not the RAMPS
Regarding the Arduino, on Arduino.SE there are a number of users who have fried their Arduino in this manner, and many of them suffer slightly different failures, although most are centered around the regulator. One case I remember was that of a capacitor burnout, see Is my Arduino dead? \- although the use case was different. There are many other cases on the Arduino.SE.
---
### Protection Diode
According to this post on RepRap - Reverse Polarity, there *should* be a **reverse polarity protection diode** (although it appears not to have work in the above example):
> If it was a ramps, those have a reverse protection diode across the input that normally needs replaced after such an incident
---
### Stepper drivers/motors
The stepper motors themselves should survive, as should the stepper drivers.
***However***, each case can be different and it would depend upon the quality of the board (is it a cheap clone or branded?), and the quality/tolerance of the components used - these factors would determine where in the chain of modules the failure occurs. Obviously, the earlier the failure's location in the chain the better.
---
### MKS Base v1.2
As an aside, this user fried their regulator (the fuses were fine) on a MKS Base v1.2 (not RAMPS), by reversing the polarity, which caused the stepper drivers to fail. However, replacing the regulator fixed it, see this post:
> Replacing the regulator chip did fix the board.
Rather helpfully the self same user has posted an Instructables of the repair: MKS Base reverse polarity repair.
---
### RAMPSXB
There is no protection diode on the RAMPXB. From RAMPSXB:
> Do NOT reverse polarity on the input pins, as there is NO PROTECTION DIODE. Reversing polarity will not only fry your steppers and FETs, but may even damage your Arduino and possibly even your computer. Triple check to make sure the polarity on your power input is 100% correct!
---
### See also
This user on post #5 of Arduino Forum: Checking the RAMPS 1.4 did manage to fry their stepper drivers, but not due to reverse polarity, by from a loose wire:
> I didnt connect the power backwards, but either I had a defective Mega2560 clone, or some stray bit of wire somehow shorted something out, and the Mega2560 literally went up in smoke (almost caught on fire !)
>
> Every stepper driver was destroyed, but the power FET's and other components survived
# Answer
> 2 votes
Assuming the (most common and standard) RAMPS 1.4 board, the power input section looks like this:
There are two 12V input sections: one for the heated bed (with an 11A fuse) and one for the rest (with a 5A fuse). If only one of the sections has reversed polarity (and the other one is connected correctly) the power supply (assuming a single supply is used) is shorted out directly through the board (without any fuses or any other protection). This will in principle not damage any components *on the board*, but it might damage the power supply or melt the wires. In the following, I assume both sections have polarity reversed consistently (or one of the sections is not connected at all).
The bed input section basically has no protection. If polarity to the bed is reversed, the bed MOSFET's body diode will conduct - basically shorting out the input through the fuse. The current that will flow will initially only be limited by the power supply's ability to supply current. Eventually the fuse will trip, but these poly fuses are quite slow and in the meantime it is possible the bed MOSFET will be damaged (which might cause it to permanently conduct, i.e. the bed might always be on, or the MOSFET might become a short circuit and short out the power supply even if the polarity is corrected).
The 5A section has a bit more in terms of protection. After the fuse there is a diode (D2) that shorts out the power supply if polarity is reversed. This is similar to how the diode in the bed MOSFET shorts out, but in this case the diode is dedicated for just this function. The diode has a relatively low forward voltage, lower than that of the MOSFETs for the heaters, so in principle these components will be protected. However, the diode is not really rated for the kind of current that would flow in this scenario, so components such as the heater/fan MOSFETs and stepper drivers might be exposed to a reverse voltage (albeit around -2V at most). They would probably survive.
As in the heated bed scenario, the diode D2 would probably be damaged - it would likely end up short circuited and thus needs to be replaced (or at least removed, but this is not advisable since it's required for polarity protection) before the board will function again.
The Arduino Mega 12V input is protected through a blocking diode (D1) which will fully protect it. This diode will not be damaged, because it won't conduct any current in a short-circuit scenario.
It might seem kind of strange a diode is used to deliberately short out the input in case of reverse polarity, and you might ask why the design doesn't simply use a diode to block the reverse flow of current (like is done for the Arduino). The reason for this is that all diodes have an associated voltage drop, which would cause a lot of power loss (especially for the heated bed), requiring a large diode with heat sink. The way the diodes are placed (i.e., shorting out the power rails in the event of reverse polarity) avoids this loss and still somewhat protects the electronics down the stream (even if the fuses/diodes are blown). Note that this is still a less than ideal solution, if you're trying to design your own reverse polarity protection solution then I would recommend to go with a MOSFET-based solution.
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Tags: ramps-1.4
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thread-6927 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6927 | How to create 3D printing file (e.g. STL, OBJ and IGES etc.) from DEM? | 2018-09-16T20:13:21.860 | # Question
Title: How to create 3D printing file (e.g. STL, OBJ and IGES etc.) from DEM?
I have DEM with 1 m resolution, how can I create 3D printing file (e.g. STL, OBJ and IGES etc.) from DEM?
# Answer
> 2 votes
This question has been answered on a sister site, GIS Stack Exchange. It's a rather comprehensive answer posted, which means it's impractical to summarize here.
GIS answer
The answer does indicate that a plug-in for QGIS software is needed in order to accomplish this objective. If you do not use/have the QGIS software, my answer is invalid. All three answers to the question linked above appear to point to the same program/plugin.
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Tags: software
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thread-6924 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6924 | Can I reuse 3D printed parts? | 2018-09-16T03:34:08.177 | # Question
Title: Can I reuse 3D printed parts?
I need to show a demo to people on a daily basis. But every demo is for a different 3D printed part.
Can I reuse the material? Is yes, what is the maximum number of times that the material can be reused?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I ground up some prints and extruded them into new filament. The quality of recycled filament is not very high so I would not recommend it.
As pointed out earlier, the shredded bulk material you would create from your old prints would cost more in time and energy to produce than buying new raw material (pellets, not filament), and you still need to extrude it into filament to be able to use it in a printer.
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Tags: print-material
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thread-6845 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6845 | Weird stepper issue when setting up Marlin printer | 2018-09-06T04:59:31.737 | # Question
Title: Weird stepper issue when setting up Marlin printer
When manually controlling the z-axis in reprap, it works fine. If I use the home button, it doesn't move. Instead, it stalls/freezes/hangs. It attempts to turn, but can't successfully make a full turn.
# Answer
> 2 votes
lower the moving speed of the Z-axis motor, search for
> homing feed rate
in config.h as it looks like the given speed is to high.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Looks like endstop signal for Z is inverted. In this case Z will move in manual mode but when homing it will try and stop as limit detected immediately. Change Z\_MIN\_ENDSTOP\_INVERTING to opposite value.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If you run M503 you should be able to see your max speeds. They, along with your homing speeds, are probably far too high and causing skipped steps (no movement). You can lower them down temporarily with M203. http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M203.html
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Tags: marlin, z-axis
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thread-6878 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6878 | Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing? | 2018-09-10T22:44:53.173 | # Question
Title: Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?
Really strange observation with my MP Select Mini V2 printing PLA. I've printed a dual-fan shroud so I can have a dedicated part-cooling fan. I've noticed that when I turn it on, the extruder starts stringing everywhere. Little tiny spider-web wisps. No amount of temperature change will make them go away (printing at 200 °C). But if I simply turn off the part-cooling fan, I get a perfect print. This doesn't make sense to me - isn't the part-cooling fan supposed to reduce stringing by cooling the filament faster?
More info: Using Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1, retraction enabled at 3.5 mm and 40 mm/s, which works great when the part-cooling fan is OFF. But when I turn it on without changing any other settings, I get stringing everywhere.
Please see picture below. The part on the left was printed using the part-cooling fan and the one on the right was printed without the part-cooling fan. No other changes. The part-cooling fan is pictured in upper left (bottom fan).
Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?
Note that I print at 0.175 mm layer height, or "Normal" for the MP Mini. The cooling fan can be controlled but if I turn it completely off then the cold end part of the nozzle won't get actively cooled. Using Cura I can slowly increase the fan over the first several levels as well, but I'm worried that if the cold end doesn't stay cold it will get clogged up with melted filament. I will try some different fan speed settings and report back - currently running at 100 % all the time.
---
*I went back to the stock shroud with single fan to remove variables. The stock shroud has a small vent at the bottom where air blows over the part, but not much. I had the same problem - I had to put a piece of tape over the blow hole to get the part to print without strings. I also couldn't get the PLA to stick to the bed easily when the blow hole was open. I'm not using the heated bed in any cases - I've found I can print most PLA without heating the bed at all. I'm beginning to think maybe this PLA is just extremely temperature sensitive. The brand is 3D Solutech Printer Filament Real Black.*
# Answer
Prior to a move the print cooling fan causes the filament to cool on the outside while the nozzle is still hot, when it then moves it causes a strings to form that will be cooled instantly. This means that the cooling you have is too much and should be reduced.
This printer has a single fan to cool the cold-end and the print through a slot with the same fan. As this fan can be scheduled, it would be recommended to create a dual fan on the carriage where you have a dedicated fan cooling the cold end at a fixed voltage, while the print is cooled by a separate fan that can be scheduled through slicer settings.
> 5 votes
# Answer
The fans are allowing the strings to harden instead of break. Maybe you should use more retraction or wipe before crossing perimeters to reduce material ooze during moves.
> 5 votes
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Tags: extruder, print-quality, pla, cooling
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thread-6937 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6937 | Ender 3 is capable of food safe printing? | 2018-09-18T00:34:45.077 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 is capable of food safe printing?
I've been looking into the viability of manufacturing a replacement part for a kitchen blender that has a broken part. I found this page that talks about what makes a print food safe. One of the items mentioned was:
> ... a brass extruder may contain lead, and lead contamination can cause some nasty health problems. ...
I own an Ender 3, and I haven't replaced the nozzle yet. How can I tell if my printer is capable of creating food safe prints in its current state?
# Answer
Food packaging needs to comply with regulations. One certification agency informing about these (and their service to certify for them) is TÜV Süd, another is SAI global. A summary of the GFSI can be found here. Inform yourself about the standards you wish to apply! The stack can not give legally binding answers.
# **No**
The Ender 3 is not approved to produce food products (and not usable for them out of the box) for lack of certification. In the design it comes from the box, you need to replace a lot of parts for food rated ones:
* The whole print head/bed need to be swapped out for food rated parts due to the exact composition being not known. They might contain banned materials. As a result:
+ You'll need an all-metal hot end that can be taken apart for cleaning up to the standards if needed.
+ You'll need a food rated PTFE tube.
+ You'll need a stainless steel nozzle that complies with food grade manufacturing demands.
+ The extruder gear should be stainless steel as well.
+ You'll need to add some part to prevent filament shreds/flakes from the extruder to enter the print area as they might act as contaminants or carry germs.
+ Similar measures have to be taken for the wheels on the hot end carriage, as it might shred.
+ As you include a volume of air into the print, you are likely to be demanded to print under a protective atmosphere to make sure no germs are inside the print.
+ We do not know the composition of the build platform, so you'd need to replace the back surface with something that is food rated.
* You'll need to post-process your prints as smooth as possible, especially because of the small edges at the layer boundaries, which can and will act as spots where germs can grow.
+ This *can* be achieved with a material that is smoothable in some way.
+ Alternatively, a sealing lacquer/coating that is food safe might help here.
# Remember, safety first:
Printed plastics that are rated for food are not necessarily food safe because of the quality or blend of the material. PLA and ABS can be made food safe, but that is usually *pure* material. We usually don't know what kinds of fillers or coloring is in our filament. The heating process might destroy the colors or fillers, which in turn might make it unsafe.
# Indirect manufacturing
If you are stone set you want/need, you can use indirect manufacturing: you don't print the actual object, you print a mold that makes the actual object. Clay and other ceramics can be made food safe very easily and they can be shaped with plastic molds.
# Boxing
There is also another way to facilitate food safety in a 3D printed container, and that is checking where the food will actually make contact. For a lunch box, that is the inside. We could line this inside with a food safe surface, for example placing a steel cup in our plastic cup-holder. Accessories like a cup holder or a decorative container for the actual food container do not need to adhere to the food packaging regulations themselves.
# Exposure time
I know this is all looking at industrial food rated production. The Primer given in the question does include a point about time the product gets into contact with the food - if there is just a short exposure, you might *get away* with it, but it doesn't make it certified food safe. Another good read in this regard is this short discussion about the Pros and Cons.
> 9 votes
# Answer
Yes you have to change brass nozzle it contains lead. If you are planning to print in PLA don't do that because PLA filament we are using in 3D printer are not food safe it contains some nasty colour dyes which are not food safe. Consider some special food safe filaments available in market. I think extruder gears are also made up of brass. Consider also changing them. Steel extuder gears are available in market like below
> -3 votes
# Answer
Parts printed in pla are food safe, as pla is usually made from corn starch. However, most 3d printed parts would not be food safe for they have many crevices where bacteria can grow. Also, if you printed with materials other than pla with that nozzle, traces of the material (which would make it into the print.
> -4 votes
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Tags: safety, food, creality-ender-3
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thread-3510 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3510 | FDM: Clear=transparent part | 2017-02-02T09:03:13.320 | # Question
Title: FDM: Clear=transparent part
I intend and would like to print a transparent hemisphere. I have a Taulman T-Glase clear 1.75 mm filament and I have XTC-3D.
You can read this interesting page, Hacking t-glase to look more like glass!
First question, what kind of printing settings should I use? Should I go for a low infill percentage or a high one? Should I go for line or hexagon? I would say 5% line but perhaps there is a better setting.
Then, how should I use XTC-3D as mentioned on the above link? I'm a little bit confused how it can make the part more transparent.
# Answer
First I would hedge your expectations.. I am very familiar with t-glase. It is very translucent but it is not clear and no amount of post treatment will make it 100% clear. Their example is the only exception where you have a simple print where it has only a single layer. By applying the clear coating they have normalized the wall and made the surface even. Thus no more light diffusion.
You could likely get the same effect with good sanding but good luck sanding a 1 wall thick print. Also note they do not show any solid parts. If they cannot get a solid part to look good and clear, then really you shouldn't expect to be able to.
Any infill will cause it to be non clear. Any extra shells will also create air pockets, lines, etc and make it non clear. If you really want clear, FDM is not the way to go. The only way I could imagine to print an item clear with FDM is to create a cast, then cast it with resin or glass..
If you consider how the plastic is applied, you can see there is no real way make it 100% air pocket free.. See below,
Image taken from here.
The best I can recommend for settings. Make your temp spot on. If you boil the material you will have less translucency. Play with over extruding (too much material) in a Limited amount. Might reduce gaps. I would also try to print in BIG THICK lines. Less lines, less diffusions.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Refraction of light is caused by changes in medium or angle of inflection. Any changes in medium will cause refraction, as such to be the most clear you would not want pockets of air. This means that if you are printing single layer 0% would work. The best appearance would most likely come from 100% infill as there would be no changes in the medium. The epoxy you linked to appears to smooth the surface, The smoother the surface, the clearer it will look. It is the same reason why you don't see clear textured mirrors or windows.
> 3 votes
# Answer
You are never going to get perfectly transparent prints, even if you were using real glass. Because of the way FDM prints, you would have fissures where the layers bond to each other. You can get good results if you use 0 or 100% infill *and* sand, then smooth the outside shell. If you are expecting optical quality, look somewhere else. However, I have successfully printed *very* nice diffusers for LED's with clear filament.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You will not get perfectly clear prints with FDM because of the mechanics of FDM printing there will always be tiny gaps. But, you can get pretty close as demonstrated by a ColorFabb tutorial.
A clear filament and printing an object at an elevated temperature (more than normal) and enough material to close the gaps (e.g. 110%) should be able to produce transparent prints, for example:
> 0 votes
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Tags: filament, fdm, smoothing
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thread-6945 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6945 | Infill failure at the far corner of two different prints | 2018-09-18T19:44:50.687 | # Question
Title: Infill failure at the far corner of two different prints
I am a complete newbie at 3D printing (although learning fast). I switched from the default Qidi slicer to the Cura slicer on a Qidi X-Pro machine (which is wonderful). Using: plate 50 °C, 0.4 mm nozzle 200 °C, 1.75 mm PLA, print speed 20 mm/s outer wall, 40 mm/s inner wall, travel speed 100 mm/s (the cura default, I think).
On two different prints, the same far corner (front left) had initial infill problems. Does anyone know why, or how I can solve it? My working theory is that the nozzle shoots across the whole print at high speed to start again at that corner and sometimes the infill filament doesn't bite enough to stick.
Eventually one of the infill layers gets a bite and the rest of the print is fine. But it's disturbing that it occurs on different prints. (I carefully level the plate before every print, so I don't think that's the issue.)
UPDATE
In another question here, turning the Cura combing setting off solved an issue. It probably solved the issue described here, too, or at least contributed to solving the problem described here.
My theory is that with combing on (as it was for that question), the oozing pulls filament out of the nozzle during the travel, so there's not enough filament at the destination corner to bite and bond to the corner wall. Turning the combing setting off seems to have solved the missing infills in the corner. It also greatly improved the quality of the infill walls, too, which relates to the problem described in this question.
UPDATE: Here's a paragraph from a forum posting here that explains how oozing caused by combing can result in "underextrusion effects." That's what I think is happening in this post - the nozzle gets to the corner, but it has no filament to bite and bond with the wall. Credit to @0scar for giving me the forum link. Quote from the link:
> Even on interior layers, combing as implemented in Cura is a bad idea, as it doesn't perform retraction, and that can result in the head oozing as it moves, especially as each time the head crosses a line of infill it can tend to pull our some plastic. You can also get some long moves (e.g., all the way around the curve of a 'C' shaped object when moving from one side of the opening to the other). This can result in the head being empty when it starts printing the perimeter again, with resultant under-extrusion effects.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Now that you are using Ultimaker Cura, the default (probably hidden) parameter `Z Seam Alignment` is set at `Sharpest Corner`, so it will always start in a sharp corner. The default retraction settings are pretty high in Ultimaker Cura (I think about 6.5 mm as default `Retraction Distance`). What happens here is that the filament is not available for printing in time (this is dependent on the extruder type), so the distance should be less than the current value.
It is highly recommended to print a retraction test to find what is best for your setup. For me the 6.5 mm works very well on my Ultimaker 3 Extended and my large custom CoreXY printer as they both use a Bowden extruder setup using 2.85 mm filament, this can be different for your printer. Choosing a different `Z Seam Alignment` option, e.g. `random` prevents the use of the same location at every height, but could result in a less aesthetic print.
Furthermore, you could try to visualize the G-code in a viewer, this can be done in the Ultimaker Cura slicer itself, but online viewers are available. After slicing your product, change the combo drop down box from `Solid view` to `Layer view` to show the sliced object. Nowadays there are 2 sliders to interface with the model; the vertical sets the layer, the horizontal the progress of the layer. It is advised to play with this to understand how your print is actually printed.
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<sub> About your settings, print speeds are not high (could be increased), travel speed is fine (is only for non-printing moves). The brim is looking good and the level of your bed is also good. </sub>
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Tags: infill
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thread-5283 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5283 | 3DTouch triggers way too close | 2018-01-14T21:37:06.237 | # Question
Title: 3DTouch triggers way too close
Today I finished building and adjusting a Prusa-Clone printer. The brain is a 32-bit board with Smoothieware on in. To run the auto bed leveling routine I installed a 3DTouch (BLTouch clone, sorry low on cash). After many headaches, I got everything working fine and I'm happy with the result. Except for one thing...
When the 3DTouch is probing, it is triggered when the nozzle is about 1 mm from the bed. If I set the probe higher, the nozzle crashes onto the bed. If I set the probe lower, the probe would be on the same level of the nozzle, not so good for print time.
Anyone with similar experience or how to sole it?
# Answer
> 3 votes
That it triggers when the nozzle is about 1 mm from the build plate is how it is supposed to work. The installation manual describes how to setup the sensor.
> The mount needs to be adjustable so that the distance between the bottom of the sensor (not the pin) needs to be 8.3mm above the tip of the nozzle.
When taking the above distance into account, the probe should be hitting the build plate first when it is extended. When the probe triggers, it triggers at a certain distance from the nozzle. It is this distance that you need to add as an offset so that the printer knows where the actual Z=0 is. To determine the offset, you home the printer, make sure the Z-offset is zero (with command `M851 Z0`), then lower the head until a piece of paper gives a little drag when pulled under the nozzle. From the display you can read the offset, e.g. -1.4. With command `M851 Z-1.4` you set the offset between level and trigger point. Use `M500` to store the new settings.
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Tags: heated-bed, calibration, z-probe, 3dtouch
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thread-6950 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6950 | FreeCAD: Scene doesn't look 3D | 2018-09-19T06:13:02.710 | # Question
Title: FreeCAD: Scene doesn't look 3D
I finished a 3D object for 4 wheels, but something seems wrong with the final scene to me:
The nearer wheels (#1 and #2) appear smaller than the far one (#3 and #4), and the distance between wheel #3 an #4 seems longer than between (1) and (2), like you can see in this picture:
I want to achieve the scene like this:
How to do that in FreeCAD?
# Answer
> 5 votes
FreeCAD, like many other 3D programs (including blender) does use Isometric/Orthographic display as the default displaying option as it allows to see on one view if some lengths or angles are "equal".
In many cases, a perspective view can be toggled on to allow visualization in a room, especially for architectural one.
In the case of FreeCAD with all its options, this option gets swamped out of the user's field of view sometimes, and the documentation is not that easy to navigate without a proper keyword, making the right thing slightly hidden in the documentation. But once you know it, it should be obvious:
# Answer
> 2 votes
CAD programs uses parallel view not perspective view. So the length of 2 objects with the same length are displayed as 2 objects with the same length on the screen. This is better for constructing stuff.
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Tags: freecad
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thread-6947 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6947 | Anet A8 - SkyNet3D freezes randomly at boot | 2018-09-18T20:13:46.643 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 - SkyNet3D freezes randomly at boot
I have a problem with my Anet A8. It is a little strange because it does not always happen.
When I turn on my printer, it freezes on boot in the second splash screen.
If I turn off and turn on several times, the printer works OK.
The printer firmware is:
* *SKYNET 3D - V2.1 - BASED ON MARLIN RC7-BUGFIX - FOR ANET 3D PRINTERS*
It was modified by me but I promise that I did not touch the boot section.
Could the Anet A8 motherboard be dying ? (before this issue it worked perfectly)
* **Update 1**:
+ I am changing some wires (power supply and hot bed). I think it has improved... In my opinion, I think that is better change all wires...
* **Update 2**: Some wires were black :-( (I changed them and the printer run well)
# Answer
> 2 votes
The Anet A8 is a low end printer which works better after installing a better (read safer) than stock firmware (stock firmware does not have thermal runaway protection which is considered to be a hazard). It is good that you flashed another firmware that does have thermal runaway protection.
The electronics of the Anet A8 are also questionable, the stock connectors are not rated for their task and wires could have been of better quality and thickness.
Now that your older SkyNet3D firmware does not boot properly anymore, it would be time to check all the leads, possibly use new wires of proper gauge and flash a new version of a more recent firmware. SkyNet3D has been forked from Marlin Firmware and is no longer maintained as all functionality has been implemented for Anet printers in the Marlin sources.
If your printer still is giving you problems then when booting, a new set of electronics (e.g. board and steppers) would help out.
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Tags: marlin, anet-a8, skynet3d
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thread-6949 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6949 | Ball screw: Maintaining Z axis position when motor is OFF | 2018-09-19T05:39:05.147 | # Question
Title: Ball screw: Maintaining Z axis position when motor is OFF
I'm building a 3d printer of size 500 x 500 x 500 build area. For the Z axis, I'm planning to use this Linear actuator.
The maximum weight Z axis might encounter is 15 Kg due to it being a clay printer. A single linear actuator can, according to the specs, lift 10 Kg. So I'm planning to use two of this.
My question is a ball screw of pitch 4mm or 5mm, will it be able to Maintain it's position when the motor is de-energized under a load of 15 kg shared by two systems.
What effect the diameter of rod has on it??
Is there any way to find that??
# Answer
> My question is a ball screw of pitch 4mm or 5mm, will it be able to Maintain it's position when motor is deenergized under a load of 15 kg shared by two systems.
The detent torque of a typical NEMA 23 stepper varies between around 3 and 7 N·cm. This is the torque produced when the windings are not energized.
Using this leadscrew torque calculator, you can find that the torque required for a 12 mm diameter, 4 mm pitch leadscrew to hold up a 75 N load, is around 5 N·cm - assuming there is no friction. If there is friction, then the required torque will be lower.
So, the torque required is almost equal to or possibly even higher than the detent torque. Therefore, you should not count on a de-energized motor holding up the build platform. In practice, you might see that friction is enough to hold up the build platform, but that any disturbance (such as somebody bumping into the printer) is enough to get the leadscrews to start spinning and have the platform drop like a rock.
> What effect the diameter of rod has on it?
Increasing the pitch also increases the torque required (so, go with a lower pitch leadscrew). The diameter does not affect the torque directly, but having a larger diameter increases the friction and so is beneficial.
> 7 votes
# Answer
Let's pull out physics...
We have a load of 15 kg, which is a weight force of 147.15 N, PLUS the bed. Let's take into account about two kilograms of bed and cables that need to be carried too, so 166.77 N. That is in the margin of error of 150 N, which simplifies calculations a lot, so let's just assume that. $$F\_{g\_\text{total}}=166\text N$$
Let's assume we use 2 lead screws, one left, one right, and both go exactly vertical. Then we get, that the load is half, so $$F\_{g\_\text{per lead}}=83\text N$$
Now, let's look at the specs of the lead screw: Pitch is 4 mm, Diameter is 12 mm. For the calculator we need Pitch Diameter (=Diameter) and the Thread Density (=Threads/cm), so I pull up the pitch conversion table and look under 4 mm Pitch. Also, we check the table and grab an intermediate "steel on steel" friction coefficient of 0.2 for dry, or 0.15 for oiled.
The results I get with those numbers are $\tau\_\text{dry}=-0.0478\text{ Nm}$ and $\tau\_\text{oiled}-0.0222\text{ Nm}$ respectively. That's the torque that needs to be applied to our motors to move it down. Wait, that number is negative?! Yes, it is, and that is actually not a bad sign:
Let's assume a higher high pitched thread. Like, REALLY high: 1 rotation per inch. One thread. It is pretty much "straight". The calculator drops us a result of $\tau\_\text{dry,super-steep}=0.273\text{ Nm}$ for 0.2 friction coefficient that the motor would need to keep working against to not have it moving.
So, when do we stay, when to we move? Well, if $\tau\_\text{calculated}\>\tau\_\text{detent}$, it moves down on its own. if $\tau\_\text{calculated}\<\tau\_\text{detent}$ it stays put for friction. The $\tau\_\text{detent}= 0.027\text{ Nm}$ for a single length NEMA 23. Our negative Torque just means we need to apply some extra torque to overcome friction before we get the bed going.
That means, with the 15kg load (+2kg bed), it is to be expected that the bed stays up. If you would use a more slick combination of materials, you might start to slide.
Always remember, there is the caveat of overcoming the detention strength with a short impact, or applying force directly to the rods when bumping into them. If the machisnism starts to spin, the friction from the nut on the bar and from the motor is all that can provide a breaking to the machine.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Adding to the other more scientific answers here. The backdriving force will move the lead screws depending on the stiction between the lead screw and the nut. If it was friction less then it will always slide. Basically you need to keep the lead screw from turning while the machine is off. You can make a basic electromagnetic clutch which will add some resistance to turning by using double pole double throw relays to short the motor leads to ground when the power is off. You can test this yourself by just connecting all the lead wires together and then try turning the motor spindle by hand.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic\_brake
> 2 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, printer-building, z-axis
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thread-4875 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4875 | Is it possible to convert a Las /Laz file into an STL or OBJ file? | 2017-11-03T17:37:51.853 | # Question
Title: Is it possible to convert a Las /Laz file into an STL or OBJ file?
I would like to know if there is any tool/library (preferably python based) that could be used in parsing a Laz file to extract info that is normally found in 3d object files such as vertices. Which could be used to create printable 3d mesh. I already tried Laspy and I could get the x,y,z data from it but it is not a vertices info but rather a scale info. So I would either need a tool to give that or an algorithm for getting vertices from the data from laspy.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Given that LAS/LAZ is LiDAR point cloud data, there is a GIS tool called las2tin to convert these files to a triangle based mesh called Triangular irregular networks or TIN by the GIS community. Other GIS tools should be able to do the same, for example ArcGIS.
Once you have the mesh, Google should be able to help you find a way to convert the TIN to an STL. You will need to scale down the STL after creation, as the TIN will probably be at 100% scale.
One example workflow for converting LAS data into an STL is:
* Using ArcScene: open DEM \> convert to TIN \> export to VRML
* Using MeshLab: open VRML \> export to STL
* Using Meshmixer: extrude base \> scale to fit standard printing parameters \> save as finished STL
More details for the process that I got from Google are available here
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Tags: 3d-models, scanning, file-formats, python
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thread-6968 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6968 | Slicer line width vs. extrusion multiplier for layer adhesion? | 2018-09-21T11:28:37.490 | # Question
Title: Slicer line width vs. extrusion multiplier for layer adhesion?
My question would like to address what would be **better** for **adhesion** and general quality and possibly strength: either *increase the slicer line width* option or *increase the slicer extrusion multiplier* for layer to layer adhesion?
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This question has a relation to "Why is it conventional to set line width \> nozzle diameter?". This answer on that question addresses a phenomenon called die swell to explain that the extrusion width is generally larger than the nozzle diameter even if the line width in the slicer is set to the nozzle diameter. Basically, increasing the line width increases the extrusion multiplier, so why not set that directly?
# Answer
> 15 votes
*Generally speaking*, both settings result in the same<sup>1</sup>: The feed rate of the filament gets adjusted. Either you set a general multiplier, or you demand a wider line which does make it set a higher multiplier hidden in the software.
<sup>1 - if you don't look at any other factor that is!</sup>
### But...
There is always a but, and this one is big:
While we can work with the extrusion multiplier to get wider lines, wider lines do change another setting: it changes the distance between the lines too. Let me show you:
* If you print 100% at 0.4 mm line width, lines are about<sup>2</sup> 0.4 mm wide at 0.4 mm distance.
* If you print 100% at 0.5 mm line width, lines are about<sup>2</sup> 0.5 mm wide at 0.5 mm distance.
* If you print 121% at 0.4 mm line width, lines are about<sup>2</sup> 0.5 mm wide at 0.4 mm distance.
<sup>2 - ignoring die swell effects</sup>
The result is pretty clear: the theoretical lines do overlap, which will lead to the polymer goop getting squished and pressed around to bulge up. Luckily, that stuff *usually* ends in the infill on the lower layers, but it can result in very messy sides. You pretty much deliberately chose to massively overextrude!
To say it blatantly: line width changes the overall geometry of the slicing to account for the extra material getting extruded, extrusion multiplier does not.
### What is the extrusion multiplier for THEN?
Well, using the extrusion multiplier can be done for many reasons, but mainly 2 are interesting:
* Troubleshooting. You can just amp it up or down to test your mechanical properties. Like if your gear ratios on the extruder are correct. Or if your print needs a thicker line to get the first layer sticking.
* Dialing in Filaments. In its core, it is meant to allow to change the flow because different polymer blends might have different mechanical and thermal properties.
+ Different filament blends can have different *bite* of the extruder gear - if the teeth dig in deeper, then the effective diameter of the gear gets smaller. This can partially be mitigated by the extruder design using gears designed to prevent shifting the depth of *bite*.
+ For example, the filler and paint could lead to more thermal expansion and die swell, or they could reduce it. This behavior can be tackled directly by adjusting the extrusion multiplier.
+ Those properties are why you should calibrate your settings when getting a new type (color&manufacturer) of filament. While some manufacturers try to keep the properties along their lines similar, some won't.
It might not look too obvious at first, but I once had printed a model from one roll of white PLA that came from China. Then I got my fingers on some other PLA that was transparent from the same warehouse. I tried to print the exact same .gcode with it again and got a hyper fragile object that just could get squished, every time I used it with the same settings as the white PLA. I had to increase both the extrusion multiplier and change the temperature to get the same strength as with the other PLA.
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Tags: slicing, extrusion, nozzle, knowledgebase
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thread-6959 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6959 | 3DTouch sensor fails after probe deployment and triggering | 2018-09-20T08:26:11.787 | # Question
Title: 3DTouch sensor fails after probe deployment and triggering
I'm using a **3DTouch sensor** (from Geeetech) on a self-build CoreXY printer (HyperCube Evolution). The sensor worked perfectly until not being used for a month.
The **symptoms** are that it **fails to deploy the pin on the second probe deployment** so basically it fails after the first probe is triggered by the raised platform.
On homing Z (not only for `G28` or "home all" but also for `G28 Z` to "home Z axis") and goes into some sort of a fail-safe mode where the LED keeps flashing. Sometimes it does deploy and finishes the homing instructions and continues to the `G29` instruction (note that double probing `#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2` is enabled in the Marlin 1.1.8 firmware) and show similar symptoms as described above for the `G28` command. Note that failing to deploy the probe sometimes leads to a rising build platform that does not stop, other times some fail safe kicks in and the bed lowers and aborts the print.
To lift the fail-safe condition, a reset of the sensor is required (this can be done through the LCD or by command `M280 P0 S160`).
**What I have done to solve the problem** is to isolate the wires from the 3D touch sensor as I was under the impression that this was related to electromagnetic interference (therefore when the sensor is probing, the bed and heater cartridge are not powered momentarily), but that did not help.
Any suggestions and solutions to get it working again are appreciated.
# Answer
> 1 votes
After troubleshooting I have managed to fix the sensor problems.
*(Please take note of the **update** at the end of the answer below as the problem started again shortly after the so-called fix...)*
Digging into several posts I found this post that hints to a solution:
After readjusting, the sensor worked and I was able to produce a print, but the next day it failed again... What I found is that the bed and extruder are **NOT** shut off while probing although that should have been enabled in Marlin 1.1.8. I assumed that this de-powering is only during the actual probe lowering, so very short. So I figured that this might be an EMI problem. In a last resort I updated to Marlin 1.1.9 which has the functionality to shut the power off for heater and bed and everything now seems to work perfectly. I now see that the de-powering is a bit longer and in fact the extruder temperature drops slightly, this has never been seen with the previous firmware version.
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**Update**:
Not long after the "update"/"fix" the problem manifested itself again... Further troubleshooting revealed that it was a bad connection of the connectors of the sensor that got temporarily "fixed" as the cables had been fiddled with during the firmware update.
*I have to note that the quality of these non-genuine sensors is not close the the original BLTouch. The BLTouch has never failed me to date, while several 3DTouch sensors did...*
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Tags: marlin, z-probe, bed-leveling, 3dtouch
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thread-6964 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6964 | Reprap RAMPs over heating issues | 2018-09-21T04:23:35.593 | # Question
Title: Reprap RAMPs over heating issues
So I've got a couple problems, to begin I'm using the RAMPs 1.4, generic Arduino mega with Marlin, generic stepper motor drivers, a generic power supply. Nothing is special or even out of the ordinary. But for some reason when I plug the RAMPs in, with everything connected or everything unplugged my Arduino heats up like hell. I clocked it at around 60°c after a couple seconds of being powered on around where the main chip is. The voltage regulator seems fine because it doesn't heat up much, I've checked it around 40°c.
Second problem is the stepper motor drivers keep blowing up for some reason. With everything plugged in I power on the board for the first time and hear a small pop and then a small amount of smoke comes from the extruder driver. I replaced it thinking it was just a bad chip and the same thing happens. All other chips are fine it's just the extruder that fries.
When the board is plugged into usb it doesn't give me any readings what so ever on what the printer is doing but the Arduino works fine with anything else I throw at it.
Things I've tried: \- Lower the voltage on the power supply from 12.00v to 11.26 with no changes \- try running it with everything plugged in and everything unplugged \- tried buying a new Arduino but the exact same problems occur
I've gotten kinda tired of thinking of ways to trouble shoot so I'll open it up to the community. Picture of a friend stepper driver
# Answer
> 1 votes
This really sounds like there is a short somewhere on the RAMPS add-on board. It is advised to not use the RAMPS add-on shield to prevent damage to the Arduino or the shield.
Personally, I would ditch this one and buy a new one. By the looks of the picture you are using a clone RAMPS, these are mass produced and the quality is not always the best (many components are skew). If you are very into electronics you could try to find the short, but it can well be that the traces on the board are somehow connected. Alternatively, you could buy a new board where RAMPS and Arduino are already combined, e.g. an MKS board.
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Tags: ramps-1.4, stepper-driver, heat-management, arduino, power-supply
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thread-6935 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6935 | Cura acting REALLY sluggish all of a sudden | 2018-09-17T19:13:14.627 | # Question
Title: Cura acting REALLY sluggish all of a sudden
I've been using Cura on my computer for a while now, (*at least a month*) but all of a sudden the entire interface has become noticeably sluggish. Whenever I scroll through the profile parameters list or the settings visibility dialog, the list lags and doesn't fully appear.
I'm at a loss to explain why this is happening.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Cura has and/or had a memory leak (or some other similar phenomenon) that occurs if you leave it running for a long time. I have left Cura running for days or a week or three and eventually ran into a similar problem. One could infer that you've left Cura running for a month, though it's not clear in your question.
I update Cura a few weeks ago (maybe a couple months) and noticed that it had a substantially smaller memory footprint, so that tells me they are working on memory management.
Looking in the release notes, you can see that 2 versions ago they implemented analytics, which is possibly a reason for the poor performance. You'll also notice a lot of new features and bugs fixed int hat version. That means a lot of work went into it. Coupled with the short time to another release, and I think they're working on fixing things.
For a more precise answer, include details and specs about your PC, internet connection, mother's maiden name, SSN, etc. I'm kidding about the last 2, but it is probably a PC or software problem that you're running into.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-4031 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031 | Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer? | 2017-05-10T09:31:33.463 | # Question
Title: Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer?
By "better" I mean "more precise"...
With respect to a RepRap P3Steel or Wilson II, I am getting some 330 mm T8 leadscrews for the Z-axis movement.
There seems to be a choice between a *lead* of 1, 2 or 8 mm - the *pitch* is 1 mm in the first case and 2 mm in the last two cases<sup>1</sup>. However, there is precious little information about the advantages and disadvantages of each lead size in RepRapWiki - Threaded Rod - Leadscrew.
It seems to me that using a leadscrew with a 1 or 2 mm lead could result in a more precise Z-axis movement, as one rotation of the stepper results in a smaller increment in height. Therefore the layer thicknesses could be smaller.
However, is the minimum layer thickness not, also, dictated by the thickness of the filament, horizontal speed of the print head, nozzle size, etc.? Thus, at some point there would be no need for a super fine vertical resolution from the leadscrew, as it may be constrained by other limiting factors.
Of course, conversely, the use of a 2 mm lead would mean that the stepper would need to "work" four times as hard, than when using 8 mm, in order to raise the print head the same distance, as well as making the movement, during a "home", take four times as long (or, if you will, four times slower). In the case of a 1 mm lead that would become eight times...
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### TL;DR
Is it worth getting a leadscrew with a 2 mm lead, or is 8 mm sufficient?
By extension, would a 1 mm lead be even better, or just overkill?
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### Footnote
<sup>1</sup> Nomenclature:
* **Pitch** is the distance between the adjacent threads;
* **Lead** is the distance that a nut will turn with one rotation, and;
* **Start** is how many starting (or thread entry) points at either end.
So, for a leadscrew, with a *pitch* of 2 mm, if there is only one *start* to the screw then the lead is the same as the pitch. However, if there are four *starts* to the screw, then the lead will be 8 mm. If there are two *starts* to the screw, then the lead will be 4 mm. And so on.
For more information, see Wikipedia - Lead, pitch and starts.
# Answer
Based on what I've learned over 8 months of printing:
What matters the most is getting a very accurate zero relative to the bed surface. An offset of 30 or 40 microns can strongly affect first-layer adhesion. Now, unless you put in some of the advanced auto-levelling sensors, the repeatability of the Z-axis limit switch may outweigh the precision of the lead screw itself. But if you've got a good limit sensor, then the more precision in the lead screw, the better you can set (and repeat) the position of the first layer.
I don't see a significant difference in strain on the drive motors if they have to run longer per mm of z-drive - just make sure the lead screws are clean :-)
> 3 votes
# Answer
From Accuracy vs Precision and Threaded Rod vs Leadscrews in 3D Printers. I have highlighted the relevant parts:
> In general, FFF/FDM printers use relatively infrequent, small, precise movements on the z-axis and consistent, fast movements on the x and y axes. **A single start leadscrew with the tightest pitch possible (highest thread density, smallest pitch) is generally going to be your best bet for the z-axis**, while you may or may not need something a little steeper to get the speeds you'd like from your x and y axes. While this may seem somewhat arbitrary given the precision of movement you can get from a stepper motor, an important factor to remember here is torque.
>
> **A more aggressive leadscrew will require more torque to drive**. We have one kit printer we bought a couple years ago that has an overly aggressive multi-start leadscrew for the z-axis. The small motors included in the kit do not have the torque required to reliably start upward movement of the carriage, leaving it sitting there skipping steps until the carriage is given a little upward nudge to get it going (no, it's not a lubrication issue or a driver that needs turning up).
So, a 2 mm lead is preferable to a 8 mm lead, as not only is less torque required, but also more precise movements are obtainable.
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With respect to the layer heights, I found this nugget of information, from Ditch the threaded rod in your RepRap 3D printer and upgrade to a lead screw z-axis
> It's always better to use layer heights that are a multiple of your full step. If you trust in your micro-stepping you will get poor results because torque is very poor and the motor won't stop very precisely. Best approach is to use a lead screw (whose longer step allows the gravity to work for you and eliminate backlash) and a stepper driver configured to 1/4 micro-step for low noise, but not for micro-layering. I always use multiples of my full step and have printed 0.040 (1 step), 0.080 (2 steps), 0.120 (3 steps and so on), 0.200, 0.600 and 0.800 mm (of course using 2 different nozzles). Do you need more than that?
See also Reddit - Lead screw opinions
* the general consensus is that a 2 mm lead is preferable to a 8 mm lead:
> * Lower the lead the better for an Z-Axis screw to allow for more precision.
> * No need for anti-backlash nuts for a Z-Axis if it has a decent amount of mass/weight to it.
* 1 mm will slow the printer down, but provide 0.005 mm (5μm) vertical movement:
> That's going to be awfully slow when homing. While you really don't need speed for the z-axis, there's not much point in going with such a low pitch... you won't be printing anywhere near the layer heights that can achieve. In the end I guess it's not a big deal, but I don't see any reason to go below about a 4 mm pitch. A 1 mm pitch with a 1.8° stepper gives you 0.005 mm increments. Anything under 0.02 mm (which is sort of ridiculous anyways) is just unnecessary. Just my thoughts.
* (As Tom points out) An 8 mm lead can result in the weight of the X-axis gantry (especially in a P3Steel) overcoming the idle torque of the stepper. As a result of this, the X-axis gantry can end up sliding down the leadscrew, in particular at power down:
> I have lead screws on my Z and it readily falls down if you kill the power. Regular threaded rod is much better at keeping it in place without power.
and
> That's one of the problems with 8mm lead ;) With 2mm lead it will hold itself. The stepper motor provides a fair amount of resistance even when powered down.
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### TL;DR
Be wary of leadscrews with a *lead*, as opposed to a *pitch*, of 8 mm, as there are disadvantages, when compared to a lesser lead of, say, 4 mm, or 2 mm (or 1 mm for leadscrew with a pitch of 1 mm):
* Higher torque may be required
* Less accuracy
* Possibility of slippage, of the X-axis, once power is removed, or stepper is disabled<sup>1</sup>
* Anti backlash nuts required
However, their major (if you can call it that) advantage is a higher maximum movement speed.
> 5 votes
# Answer
**Longer lead**
Pros:
1. Faster movement (mostly benefits homing)
2. More standard
3. Weak motor friendly
4. Might be slightly more stable (sideways) than shorter leads because of more starts creating more contact with nut (?)
Cons
1. Backlash
2. Less resolution (unless using 0.9 degree motor but see note<sup>1</sup>) although this is ignorable since it's still very high. It's already around 5x higher than xy axes using the longest leads<sup>2</sup>.
**Shorter leads**
Pros
1. More accuracy if you turn off microstepping. it can give you more resolution, but it's useless resolution unless you print with \< 0.01 mm layer heights<sup>3</sup>. Turning off microstepping trades away this useless resolution for increased accuracy. But this comes at the cost of (much) louder drivers.
2. Less backlash
Cons
1. Stronger motors maybe needed
2. Slower homing
The reason why companies prefer longer leads is because shorter leads simply add useless resolution and slows down movement.
**Footnotes**
<sup>1</sup> It makes more sense to use higher degree motors to drive shorter leads than vice versa because of higher torque.
<sup>2</sup> 0.0025 mm vs 0.0125 mm
<sup>3</sup> or using a probe to autolevel, which causes the z axis to go up and down in very small increments
> 3 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, printer-building, lead-screw
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thread-6977 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6977 | Upgrading to silicone heat bed, will it burn my house down? | 2018-09-23T09:50:33.600 | # Question
Title: Upgrading to silicone heat bed, will it burn my house down?
I'm looking into upgrading my heated bed and replacing it with a silicone bed. I know nearly nothing about electronics, so I would like someone more knowledgeable to confirm if what I have theorized is correct or I'm going to burn my house down trying it.
Basically, I'm considering setting up a 200W@12V heater, and I am using this premium ramps, which reportedly has Toshiba TK72E12N1, S1X MOSFETs.
I did some basic math following Tom's guide, if that is correct, I would be pulling 16 A current. Assuming I plug the heatbed directly to the ramps, that would mean the MOSFETs are losing approximately (considering 20 % more resistance than the datasheet says as per Tom's advice) about 1.2 W, which means the MOSFET would heat up about 100 °C above room temperature, so the total temp would be around 125 °C, which is below the graded 150 °C in the sheet.
According to this math, I'm thinking I can just plug that heater to my RAMPS board without any issues. Should this cause any issues? Will it set a fire or melt down something? Anything else I should consider?
# Answer
The heated bed port on your board has a 11A fuse. It will not work for a heated bed requiring 16A of current, no matter how good the MOSFETs might be. Note that the terminal block might also not be rated for that much current. You'd have to check, because often it is not the MOSFET itself that catches fire but the wiring or terminal blocks.
Also, keep in mind RAMPS only drives the gate with 5V. The value specified in the datasheet (for 10V) plus 20% is probably a bit optimistic. The datasheet doesn't specify the resistance at 5V, so you're guessing at what the resistance might be. Since you're already running the part quite close to its limits, and considering ambient temperature might rise above 25C, I'd be cautious. The designers of that board only intended it for use at 11A, probably with good reason...
> 6 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, ramps-1.4, safety, cooling
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thread-542 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/542 | What is the benefit of using an ARM based electronics? | 2016-02-09T20:56:38.667 | # Question
Title: What is the benefit of using an ARM based electronics?
Most electronics use micro-controllers like an AVR, but I'm seeing ARM chips in new electronics. ARM chips are said to be more powerful, but in what areas related to 3D printing could this help? What are the features that the AVR struggles with and where an ARM could be better?
High Speed movement? Delta printers? Graphic display?
And is the AVR really the limitation there?
# Answer
3D printer controllers have to do a lot of stuff very, very fast. Performing kinematics and dynamics calculations while sending many thousands of precisely-synchronized step pulses per second is *really, really hard*. The 8bit AVR line of microcontrollers used in older 3D printer controllers is basically a late-1990s era Mr Coffee processor. They are completely, utterly maxed out on processor time just executing basic printing functions in simple (eg Cartesian) printers, and adding additional calculation load will bog them down and cause slowdowns, stuttering, pausing, and so on.
"But my 8bit printer works fine," you say. No, it doesn't. Your print performance is limited by it, whether you realize it or not. Slicers now automatically hide a lot of the firmware's performance shortcomings from you. For example, the standard practice of greatly slowing down print speeds on perimeters is largely a result of 8bit processors having inadequate resources for two things:
1. Performing centripetal acceleration calculations for curves across multiple gcode segments
2. Keeping up with gcode transmission/processing and motion planning for gcode with lots of very small segments, such as in organic models or smooth arcs
When presented with a series of very small segments in a smooth arc or complex curve, the 8bit firmware will likely choke on the required command processing rate and introduce stuttering to the print. These incredibly brief pauses allow residual pressure in the extruder to push out some extra plastic, making a little zit on the print. So most slicers automatically decimate curves and output gcode with reduced resolution to lighten the load on the firmware. Problem solved, right?
But there's another issue -- the GRBL motion control algorithms underlying all the major open source 3D printer controllers were designed with lots of shortcuts and hacks to allow 8bit processors to execute fast enough. For example, the basic algorithm only looks at the speed or velocity change at the corner between two segments, and uses that to decide when to decelerate/accelerate along the direction of motion. It does not calculate or consider centripetal/radial acceleration whatsoever. This is a really effective hack when printing boxy, low-res models, but it fails miserably on smooth curves with lots of little segments. The firmware does not detect any appreciable velocity change at the corner of any two nearly-linear segments within the faceted curve, and thus does not slow down for the curve. So complex geometry is effectively printed at constant velocity, with no acceleration.
Printing complex perimeters unaccelerated means the commanded feedrate must be very low to get good quality. Most printers are limited to about 40mm/s or less on complex perimeters, despite being able to run perhaps 80-120mm/s on low-complexity infill before hitting other speed limits.
Between the command processing rate limits and motion planner shortcomings required by low power processors, print speeds must be much lower in practice than is strictly required by the physics and printer hardware. This all comes from 8bit processors. The workarounds and best practices to deal with this problem are so deeply baked into the toolchains and ecosystem that very few people realize there is even a problem. But it's a real limit that can be overcome: a high-speed processor running a more rigorous motion planner could generate higher average print speeds with *better* print quality.
That said, the ARM-based firmwares are only slowly moving towards more advanced motion planners. This is a big development area right now that is actually driving an upcoming shift away from low-end ARMs like the Cortex M3 towards even faster processors. It's actually not all that hard to max out an 84 MHz Arduino Due by piling on a bunch of firmware features.
The use of 8bit processors also makes printers LOUDER. The biggest consumer of processor time in a typical 8bit printer is the stepper interrupt that fires the step pulses to make the motors move. It is quite typical for \>60% of all clock cycles on an Atmega AVR to go to firing step pulses. Because this occurs as an interrupt, other processing tasks that the printer must perform -- like acceleration calculations and heater control -- get squeezed into the brief spaces between stepper interrupt events.
Without careful firmware design, the step pulses will completely "crowd out" other functionality like LCD display updates and acceleration calculations. In order to allow higher motion rates without using all the processor resources, 8bit firmwares have a mode called "step doubling" that fires two (or four, or eight) step pulses per stepper interrupt so that half (or a quarter, or an eighth) as many stepper interrupts can be used to produce the same motion speed. This practice de-bottlenecks the processor, but it causes rougher and louder motor motion because the step pulses are fired in bursts rather than a constant frequency. In effect, the microstepping level of the motor is functionally dropped to a coarser mode when the stepper interrupt fires double or quad steps. So the motors get louder, less precise, and in extreme cases may have problems with resonance.
An interesting side effect is that if you switch a Marlin-based printer from 1/16 microstepping to 1/32 microstepping, and keep the same print speeds, the firmware will simply start step-doubling, dropping your effective microstepping level right back down to 1/16.
ARM-based firmwares also use step doubling, but the allowable step rates are typically ~8 times higher before double/quad stepping is used. That can mean higher speeds and/or smoother motion.
Another issue with 8bit AVRs is the lack of hardware floating point and need to spend many clock cycles on high-precision calculations or handling very large numbers. Delta kinematics, auto-leveling functions, calculating moves with extremely high step counts for large printers, and other advanced functionality all take a **lot** of clock cycles on an 8bit processor. Poor firmware design or carelessly adding a feature that requires a few extra square roots and trig functions can completely bog down the processor. This kind of feature creep and code bloat has seriously impacted Marlin's performance over time as people ask more and more of the old AVR.
In comparison, a 32bit processor doesn't just have a faster clock and more clock cycles, it is also able to do much more complex math in fewer clock cycles, because it has dedicated hardware functionality that takes care of many of the steps an 8bit processor must do in software.
Do 8bit processors work? Sure, they work surprisingly well for what they are and what we ask of them. But they unquestionably limit the performance and features of modern 3D printers. Even today's current generation of 32bit processors is already being maxed out by high speed printers and math-heavy features. The 8bit processor is already two generations behind what would qualify as a "modern" 3D printer controller.
> 24 votes
# Answer
Generally, AVR is in fact less powerful than many ARM cores used today. Most printers with AVRs don't have floating-point coprocessors, although a lot of the step and movement control can be done in integer-only math (except for G2/G3). Marlin can interrupt for step handling up to 10000 times per second on AVR, translating to 40000 steps per second. This isn't particularly useful without mechanical components that can move at those speeds and still print meaningful results (or are far more precise and have a far higher step-count-per-mm at a similar speed).
Graphic display isn't a particularly taxing thing to do at *low* speeds--high speeds or weird interfaces might require a bit more power or a dedicated interrupt.
The times when ARM might be important are for more math-heavy and especially floating-point-heavy setups such as delta, where every move requires many floating-point and trig operations, and navigation in menus on a 16MHz AVR (atmega2560) is described as "painfully slow", but Marlin does succeed in printing meaningful results on delta-style printers.
Clearly, an ARM core that is either faster at performing soft floating-point, or supports hardfloat (hardware that does floating point operations very efficiently) will see a benefit for such processes.
> 11 votes
# Answer
Generally, microcontrollers such as the AVR are single core / single threaded - so while working in a while loop to run the motor controller, you might be lacking resources to do anything else, like navigate a menu efficiently.
Many ARM processors now a days are multi core / multi threaded, meaning that you can have one thread working your print, while another is free for whatever else the user may want to do.
i.e. Any AVR processor running a local webserver to allow remote access to the printer would be painfully basic, where ARM would generally allow for much more flexibility.
> 3 votes
# Answer
AVR processor has sufficient performance for standard printing. But it lacks performance for
* delta printers (see hexafraction answer)
* display menu (it's terribly slow on my RepRap printer which uses ATmega2560)
* web interface (ethernet)
Comparison of technical specs should be self explaining. This particular ARM CPU is at least 10x faster opposite to ATmega2560:
## CPU ARM-Cortex M3 LPC1769 (used in Smoothieboard)
* CPU: Cortex-M3, 1 core
* architecture: ARMv7-M (32-bit)
* frequency: 96-120 Mhz
* memory
+ Flash: 512 kB
+ RAM: 64 kB
## Microcontroller ATmega2560
* architecture: 8-bit
* frequency: 16 MHz
* memory
+ flash Memory 256 KB of which 8 KB used by bootloader
+ SRAM: 8 KB
+ EEPROM: 4 KB
> 2 votes
# Answer
AVR processors are 8 bit - thus they can only fetch data from memory 8 bits at a time - while an ARM is 32 bit and can fetch data 32 bits at a time. Position resolution requires a 24 bit value minimum - this means the AVR takes 3 data fetches for the position - whereas the ARM takes 1 data fetch.
Worse still, AVR processors internally divide the clock by 3, so that a 40 MHz AVR is running at 13.3 MHz typically, while an ARM is 1 clock cycle per bus transaction and instruction processing - this includes a 32 bit by 32 bit multiple in 1 clock cycle.
The memory map on ARM processors is 32 bit wide or 4 GB while 8 bit processors only have an address bus of 16 bits or 64 KB - which means that bank switching comes into play on any program over 64 KB - this takes instructions and time to be done - while with the ARM this is not an issue.
The cost aspects is about the same as AVRs - it just requires redesigned firmware.
As for FPGAs:
* They cost the same or more than the processor
* They are fast, specialized, devices and can be configured for specialized task
* They have additional cost factors:
+ lots more decoupling caps are needed because of the speed of the circuits in the FPGA.
+ Require additional power supplies, and ground planes and power plans - which tends to mean (and require) a minimum of a 4 layer board, or possibly 6 layers, which adds to the cost of the electronics
The result of adding a FPGA to a AVR will cost a lot more than going to a more powerful ARM processor.
> 1 votes
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Tags: electronics
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thread-6980 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6980 | Filament storage? | 2018-09-24T10:28:40.320 | # Question
Title: Filament storage?
What's the best way (outside of silica beads) to store filament sensitive to moisture? I feel like filament buried under a couple pounds of rice will stay pretty dry. I understand that frequently exposing the rice to humid air will cause the rice to less effective but I would only plan on opening the container to put a new spool in and replace the old one.
# Answer
If you don't want to use silica beads, or can't get any (it seems to be a very American thing, you can't buy any here in France except if you go through a specialized reseller), you can put them in a sealable plastic box with one of those big desiccants for rooms.
That's what I use for my Nylon and PVA from Ultimaker and it works like a charm. It keeps humidity at about 25% inside the plastic box, and I even managed to save a roll of PVA by letting rest in a box with one of these for a couple weeks.
> 1 votes
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Tags: filament, filament-quality
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thread-6992 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6992 | Simplified 3d will not run extruder | 2018-09-26T01:43:47.943 | # Question
Title: Simplified 3d will not run extruder
I downloaded simplified 3d to use with Mach 3 everything seems to work properly except for the extruder which will not communicate with the new software. Not moving filament that is my only problem what is going on?
# Answer
> 1 votes
To use Mach3 to send printing you need to define the extruder as A instead E, since Mach3 only drives X,Y,Z,A and B motors. you can see an explanation here on ***is possible to send printing with mach3?*** Question.
I haven't tried to see if is possible to change this letters directly on 3D simplify, because i'm using ramps 1.4 instead the CNC driver control. But there is an ADDON to slice your gcode with Mach3 called gnexlab, try to find it on google search. I've downloded few years ago.
Added Link
gnexlab Addon
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Tags: extruder, software
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thread-722 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/722 | PETG Collecting on the Extruder | 2016-03-09T15:57:50.437 | # Question
Title: PETG Collecting on the Extruder
I have recently bought a spool of eSun PETG. So far I really like the filament. My only complaint is, I get lumps of charred filament deposited on my object. The slicer I used is Craft Ware and I have played with the Far Travel -\> Elevation settings. I have noticed that this helps but then I have little to no adhesion to the print surface and my supports do not stick to the raft. Does any one know how to mitigated PETG from collecting on the extruder?
# Answer
Different brands and blends of PET filaments seem to do this to different degrees. Esun's PETG is definitely one that tends to glob onto the nozzle. Basically, the nozzle plows through the top surface of the filament and lifts up some plastic, much like the bow of a ship lifting up some water at high speeds. PET's viscosity and stickiness seem to amplify this effect more than other filaments.
Some things you can do to minimize the globbing:
* Calibrate extrusion volume on the low end of what you'd normally use for other filaments (how you do this depends on your slicer)
* Use your slicer's "Z-hop" or "avoid perimeters" feature so you don't do travel moves across printed surfaces
* Invest in an anti-stick coated nozzle, such as are sold by Micro Swiss or Performance 3-d (these don't eliminate globbing, but they do reduce it and make the nozzle much easier to clean)
* Play with slicer settings such as extrusion width, layer height, and infill/perimeter overlap to reduce the amount of "excess material" that sticks above the print surface
Again, this is a common problem with PET blend filaments. Anecdotally, some brands seem to glob more or less than others, so switching to a different vendor may be worth trying if you want to do a lot of PETG prints.
> 7 votes
# Answer
For me, none of the classic solutions to PETG zits worked; these include extra retraction, slower/faster retraction, lower extrusion width, lower extrusion multiplier, avoid perimeters etc. It was especially disappointing to see lower extrusion multiplier making no difference whatsoever in reducing the zits, but only resulting in a mechanically weaker and even spongy result. What made all the difference is to **disable z lifting during retraction** which my slicer profile has enabled by default. This setting alone eliminated nearly all zits and most stringing (i.e spiderwebs).
Of course, the amount of zits and stringing will heavily depend on the particular filament you're using and the particular model you're printing.
*Additional note:* I was getting extra zits/overextrusion on a particular model I had that was exceptionally thin and tall when attempting to print with PETG. Lower extrusion multiplier made no improvement but weakened the part and resulted in spongy structure. I was successful in printing this part **along with another part that was of similar height**. I'm suspecting that printing the part alone but **much more slowly** to help with cooling would also succeed.
> 3 votes
# Answer
PETG strings at working temperature to different extents depending on brand. Some of the thinner strings are flying in the air due to the fan or mechanical stress, and are finally captured by the hot end. I feel, PETG has two modes
* Too cold: Less to no stringing, but sometimes underextrusion and weak layer bonding
* Hot enough: Stringing (from weak to strong) but good bonding
**Things which do not help** (at least least on my printer with direct extruder), but which I tried out individually
* Retractions past 1.5 mm on my direct extruders
* Reducing minimum distance
* Retraction speed 30 to 60 mm/s
* Z-hops
* Fan speed 30% to 100%
**Things I have not tested**
* Maybe minimum layer time could be increased
**Things that worked**
* Coasting seems the only thing which helps, but you still have very thin strings at sufficient temperatures
**Other things to consider**
* As mentioned the PETG brand has a certain impact
* The worst Co-Polyester I tested were (by far) the XT-Filaments (pink and green)
* All regular PETG filaments were better than XT in nearly every aspect, but still tend to string to a certain degree
> 2 votes
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Tags: filament, petg
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thread-6986 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6986 | When is kapton tape useful as a bed adhesive? | 2018-09-25T19:54:31.450 | # Question
Title: When is kapton tape useful as a bed adhesive?
I've long since been aware that some people swear by Kapton tape as a bed adhesive, with MatterHackers claiming that Kapton tape is the recommended bed adhesive for ABS.
What makes Kapton tape so useful for printing with ABS? Is it also useful for printing with other materials?
# Answer
I tested Kapton tape for PLA, ABS, PETG and XT. I know it works for other materials as well. What you need to keep in mind is that many materials only stick to Kapton tape well if you use a heated bed.
The advantage of Kapton tape in comparison to other materials is its heat endurance and mechanical stability. It protects the glass underneath, while you remove the print from the surface. Some filaments stick so well to glass that you may break chunks out of it.
The major disadvantage of Kapton tape is the time to apply the tape to the print surface and its very smooth surface pattern which seems odd in comparison to the rest of the print.
> 5 votes
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Tags: abs, adhesion
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thread-6072 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6072 | Extruder clogs with HIPS | 2018-05-30T20:44:25.467 | # Question
Title: Extruder clogs with HIPS
I've got a Prusa i3 MK3. I have printed with PLA, PETG and tried HIPS. Haven't had any clogs with PLA and PETG, but with HIPS I've got a weird problem.
My first three test prints in HIPS went fine, but then I got a very bad clog (required total disassembly of the extruder) twice. And every time, it was at the same moment during a print. The object I was printing was a hollow cylinder. The walls were about 5 mm thick, getting thinner near the top edge. At the moment the walls started getting thinner, the problems started.
I've read that HIPS can clog if the filament moves too slow through the hotend. At the moment the clog occurred, the printer was printing a very narrow part, and the extruder had to move around a lot. Is it possible that, at that moment, the filament moves too slow and the problems starts? I have also printed two copies of the object in a single run, and then the problem didn't occur.
I hope my explanation makes sense, but here's what it comes down to: Does HIPS clog easily when the filament moves too slow, and if it does, what can I do to solve this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
This has been sitting for a long time without an answer, so let me answer with an experience I've had with PETG rather than HIPS.
PETG seems to be a relatively soft plastic. It isn't soft like TPU, but it is softer than PLA or ABS. The HIPS filament (which I have but haven't used) appears to also be softer, so it is possible that my PETG problem could relate to your HIPS problem.
I was printing and re-printing an object with PETG that had worked fine with PLA. Three times in a row, I got a filament jam in about the same place.
The problem was that the filament was retracting, returning, retracting, and returning many times within a very small amount of extruded plastic. My extruder was set for high pressure between the drive roller and the idler. When the filament went back and forth through the extruder, it flattened enough that it would jam from being too wide to fit through the next stage (in my case, a Bowden tube).
When I reduced the compression of the filament in the extruder, the problem stopped. I also reduced the retraction distance, and increased the minimum travel before the slicer would do a retract. Both were intended to reduce the number of times any single bit of filament would pass through the rollers.
# Answer
> 0 votes
HIPS does better with a wider nozzle; try a 1mm nozzle.
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Tags: extruder, nozzle, filament-quality
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thread-6990 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6990 | How to remove unwanted filament trails from sharp corners | 2018-09-25T23:49:57.660 | # Question
Title: How to remove unwanted filament trails from sharp corners
I'm a 2-week newbie at 3D printing, working on a new Qidi Xpro machine (that is solid and one that I like). So, I do not want to believe that this issue is caused by my printer itself. I'm hoping that my settings have something to do with it.
The problem is all the filament lines (travel lines, I think) that start at a sharp corner and go somewhere else. Most often, the lines go to another sharp corner but sometimes can intersect the middle of a side. See the image below for many examples. I have drawn white lines parallel to the unwanted filament lines in case they are hard to spot.
The unwanted lines also appear in the infill underneath the surface lines. They look like porous infill grid lines since they should probably not be there, and they do not get a full load of filament extrusion. You could easily say "Oh, they are the result of a "leaky" nozzle with poor retraction, but I think it's more complicated than that. I have done a full load of retraction tests and calibrations to optimize retraction lengths and speeds to minimize hairs.
Here is an image showing the problem:
My Cura settings seem reasonable for PLA: bed 50C, nozzle 200C, print speed 40mm, travel speed 90mm (100-110 makes no difference), retraction length 8.5-9.5mm (makes no big difference), retraction speed 35mm, infill: density 20% (line, grid, makes no difference), z-seam set to random, retract at new layer = enabled.
I want to believe that something in my settings is telling the machine to extrude a 1/2 or 1/3 amount of filament when it starts those travels from sharp corners to somewhere else. But, I have not been able to solve the problem.
Everything else works fine in a print (IMHO) except for another problem that I described here. I thought I fixed that one, but I saw it occur on the image shown above (inside the infill, under the surface that is shown above).
Does anyone have any ideas that I might try to solve the problem? Thank you.
UPDATE: Here's an image with Zhop when retracted enabled at zhop height 1mm. This is an infill picture, so it cannot be directly compared to the surfaced original. But, the unwanted trails are all still there (although very thin). Maybe 2mm hop height will do it. I will run another test.
UPDATE:
I ran a second test with zhop 2.0mm, but without success. The problem was still there. (Retraction on, 8.5mm, min distance 0.8mm). Here is a comparison picture. I think the gcode is definitely telling my printer to do what it does, because the problem is not just a random leak. I think I'll try a different slicer in hopes that it generates different gcode.
UPDATE ON COMBING
Oscar pointed me to the Cura "combing" setting in his comment below. He nailed teh problem perfectly. Combing means "don't retract, and ooze as you please while you move in a straight line to the destination." That's exactly what I've been showing in my images.
The default for Cura combing is enabled. As a newbie, I didn't know enough to turn it off. Worse yet, if combing is enabled ("don't retract"), it prevents "Zhop When Retracted" from zhopping. So, all my zhop experiments did exactly nothing and had zero effect because no zhopping was occurring. After I disabled combing, then for the first time in my life I actually saw what a zhop looked like. (And thus I can assert that zhopping was not happening with combining=enabled.)
Here is an image of my new "perfect" prints thanks to Oscar's pointer on combing. The left two prints have combing off, zhop off. They are almost perfect, inside and out. The infill walls are generally solid and smooth (20% infill) and without the globs and gaps in the image on the right (with combing on).
As a closing note, I think the combing setting was probably also responsible for the problem of missing infill grids in the corner, as described in this question. The problem doesn't happen with combing off. My theory is that with combing on (as it was for that question), the oozing pulls filament out of the nozzle during the travel, so there's not enough filament at the destination to bite and bond to the corner. So, turning combing off solved 3 problems for me: the awful surface lines, the unwanted trails in the infill, and the missing infills in the corner. It also greatly improved the quality of the infill walls, too.
# Answer
You can Z-hop what you like, but if it is oozing it is oozing, you will always see the effects of that as it just drops down.
Basically you have **multiple issues**, **first the oozing**, **second the line markings on the top**.
# **First**
Oozing is fought by applying correct settings for e.g. print temperature, retraction, coasting, travel speed, as is explained in an answer on one of your own questions. Note that you have not explorer the coasting option as far as I understand from your question. Coasting means that you stop extruding filament prior to a move when the head is still printing. This is explained by the pressure build-up in the hotend; ideally you set the coasting length as such that all the material that is pressed out as a result of the pressure build-up is extruded just before the head moves/travels to another location. Specific calibration prints can be found to tune this for your printer.
# **Second**
The markings on the top can be removed by setting the correct combing setting. Combing does not use retraction and uses straight moves, this saves a lot of time in printing, but it makes those ugly scars on bottom and top faces. You can set the option to not comb on those surfaces, and frankly, what happens on the inside stays in the inside, I would not worry about that. A good read with additional info on combing is this post.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Having run into this type of problem at the library makerspace, under a different slicer, I had a good idea where to start the search. It is, in your case, "z-hop cura slicer" and the best return came from Polar3D.
Keep in mind that this post is more than 2 years old, but if the feature was there before, it should be there now.
Summary (okay, dead straight copy/paste):
> Cura settings \> Basic \> Enable Retraction - details (click the little gear/cog) \> "Z hop when retracting (mm)"
>
> You may see it default to 0.3mm, try raising this somewhere around 0.8mm - 1.0mm.
> 1 votes
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Tags: pla, ultimaker-cura, retraction
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thread-6958 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6958 | Resources for making 3d scans of electrically conductive materials? | 2018-09-20T05:25:50.530 | # Question
Title: Resources for making 3d scans of electrically conductive materials?
I would like to make a 3d scanner for accurately modeling very small metal parts.
I figured I might be able to take advantage of the fact that metal conducts electricity, and avoid using light. This might be cheaper, easier to make, and wouldn't get thrown off by shiny surfaces.
Basically, I am imagining an object on a rotating stage, and a movable "feeler" probe. The probe is moved towards the object, and when the probe touches the metal object, a circuit is closed. The distance and angle of the probe and object are then recorded, and used to model a cross section of the object.
My question is:
Is this technique already being used? If so, where? Is there a name for this technique? What resources should I look at for researching this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have heard of similar scanning not using the electrical connecting but using the capacitance of the metal object to detect it. Capacitive Scanning works by detecting a metal object near the prob so the prob doesn't have to touch the object being scanned
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Tags: 3d-models, scanning
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thread-7008 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7008 | Filament Balling up on random parts of a print | 2018-09-27T06:55:08.863 | # Question
Title: Filament Balling up on random parts of a print
The skirt prints out ok, but there is balling up of filament on some of the prints.
I am printing 50 small parts at a go, and the last 4 batches were perfect, but the fifth batch had filament problems like on the photo.
Any advice?
Thanks
# Answer
I experienced that several times if my print temperature was too low. Then, the filament does not stick to the plate very well and prefers to stick to the nozzle which pulls it away. Solution is to increase the temperature by 5 to 10 degrees, at least for the first layers..
> 7 votes
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Tags: print-quality
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thread-7012 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7012 | 20x20x20 calibration cube size change after switching filament | 2018-09-27T16:14:44.003 | # Question
Title: 20x20x20 calibration cube size change after switching filament
I used to print with PLA and everything in my printer was calibrated. But I got a new type of filament called Poly Hybrid from a friend of mine. When I print a 20 mm cube, the x and y axes are fine but z axis in cube is about 18 mm.
Should I calibrate my printer z axis again for this new filament type? Because I couldn't find any option in Slic3r in filament tab to set layer height.
# Answer
**Filament type should have nothing to do with the issues you are facing**. This is a mechanical issue or a slicing/scaling issue. The hotend should, if instructed to go to 20 mm height actually go to 20 mm (it did do that before!), it cannot "lose" 2 mm on the way up unless you have a lot of lost steps (e.g. too much load on the carriage pressing it down, but that seems pretty unlikely). Typical variations for Z are in the order of a few tenths of a mm for a properly dialed in printer.
Please note that the Z axis is usually controlled by a leadscrew (*your printer type and brand is not known, but if you have a Prusa style printer or some sort of a cube you'll have a leadscrew, Delta's have belts*), so once you dialed this in, the head will go to the instructed height.
Reasoning to your observations: If it was under-extrusion because of lower diameter filament, the last few layers should have been falling out of the hotend (considering the head goes to 20 mm and the print is 18 mm high). This is not the case; you have not described that kind of behavior.
The most likely problem is a **slicing or scaling problem**.
The answer to your question is therefore: ***"No you do not need to calibrate the Z height."***. But when changing to another filament you *could* calibrate the extruder for this new filament; if the diameter is not far off you do not need to do that, but you could if you are into details.
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<sub>Preferably questions like these need to ***include a picture of the print*** and the ***printer type***!</sub>
> 6 votes
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Tags: filament, slic3r, calibration
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thread-885 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/885 | Prusa XI3 Extruder Calibration | 2016-03-26T15:27:18.303 | # Question
Title: Prusa XI3 Extruder Calibration
I have done the calibration for the x, y, and z axis and everything works fine there. However when I went to do the calibration for extruder things got a little weird. The original number programmed on the board for the step per mm was 98 When I did my first measurements I used 120mm as the mark on the filament then extruded 100mm then remeasured the mark it was 37.66. Then by using the new\_e\_steps = old\_e\_steps * (100/(120-distance). I would use the new number and upload it to the printer which was 119.0187. After that I took another measurement, the new measurement was 61.27mm after marking 120mm then extruding 100mm of filament. Using the formula it came out to be 202.6540. Then the new measurement was some where around 80 some MM. It seams that the more I do the calibration the less accurate it gets. What am I doing wrong here?Triffid Hunters Calibration is the guide I have been using and this link is to the specifications to the printer HE3D Prusa XI3.
# Answer
It is really strange that although you *increased* the steps per mm, the amount extruded was *less*. I can think of two possible explanations:
* You are extruding too quickly, at a rate at which the extruder can't keep up melting the filament fast enough, causing the filament to slip or the extruder to miss steps: try lowering the feedrate (a feedrate like 100mm/min is typical for 1.75mm filament) and make sure that the temperature is appropriate to your filament.
* You are in absolute coordinate mode, and when you try to extrude 100mm it actually extrudes a different amount (based on the previous "position" of the extruder). Enter relative coordinate mode using G91.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I understand you marked at 120mm then tried to extrude 100mm and measured 37.66mm remaining. Take the 120mm - 37.66mm (remaining)= 82.34mm (that was extruded (so you were 17.66mm short of your 100mm).
The formula I use is \[New Setting=(Wanted Distance X old setting)/ Actual Distance\].
So \[New Setting = (100 x Old Setting)/82.34.\]
Hope this helps
> 0 votes
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Tags: extruder, prusa-i3, calibration
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thread-4452 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4452 | Low Filament Sensor for Creality CR-10? | 2017-08-02T13:23:10.820 | # Question
Title: Low Filament Sensor for Creality CR-10?
I have been playing with my CR-10 for about a month now and I was wondering if there is a low filament sensor available for the CR10.
I found this listing on Amazon, Creality 3D Printer CR-10 S4 with Filament Monitor Dual Z Rod Screws 400x400x400mm, which is for the larger model which has a built in *low filament sensor*, and I was wondering if the sensor could be bought separately and installed on my CR-10.
Alternatively, I have had a look around and only found this, XCSOURCE 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Detection Sensor Module Filament Run Out Pause Monitor for 3D Printer DIY Kit TE720. By looks of it, it needs to be attached to the main board in the control box.
Can anyone tell me if this would be compatible?
# Answer
### TL;DR
*You need to have the version 2.x controller board (and the associated CR-10S firmware) to use the filament sensor*. If you do not then you will need to upgrade your controller board.
---
### Board Comparison
For an excellent breakdown of the boards, read Creality CR-10 and CR-10S Models – What Printer do you have.
There appear to be two basic model versions of controller board, which use different firmware:
* Controller board v1.1.2 (or v1.1.3 with additional filter capacitor) which uses **CR-10 firmware**. These have a small Atmel ATmega1284P chip, and one Z-axis stepper connector;
* Controller board v2.0 (or v2.1 with extra fan ports) which uses **CR-10S firmware**. These have a large Atmel ATmega2560 chip, and two Z-axis stepper connectors.
See the section **Board examples** at the bottom of this answer for a visual comparison of the two boards.
**It is the *v2.x (CR-10S)* board that has the filament detector**, which uses the X+ endstop connector:
To quote part of the page:
> Please make sure you know what printer you have. There are 8 DIFFERENT models from Creality. There are 2 different boards across these models. The easiest way to identify what one you have is if it has a filament sensor or not. If it does then you have a CR-10S machine. If it does not then it is a CR-10.
>
> Just because you have a CR-10 S4 or CR-10 S5 that does NOT make it a CR-10S.
>
> The S4 and S5 sizes come available with either board versions. Again the main way to tell is if you have a filament sensor from Creality or not. Whether you have Dual Z or not does NOT matter. What matters is what board is in the enclosure.
>
> Typically every CR-10S board came with a filament sensor. So if you don’t have a filament sensor then it is the CR-10 and you need use the CR-10 firmware. However we have seen some CR-10 Mini machines ship with CR-10S boards. Use the below pictures of the boards that are in the wild to identify what model you have. The important thing is to use the correct firmware for the board that is in your machine.
---
### Separate upgrade
With respect to the first question, you would be best off contacting Creality directly, via their customer support, to see if the sensor is available separately. This would probably make for the least painful method of implementing the filament sensor.
Alternatively, there is this kit, Creality CR-10S Upgrade Kit, for $120:
> Best Upgrade Kit for your Creality CR-10 3D Printer contains Dual Z axis for Stability in 3D Prints & Filament Monitoring Alarm Protection (Sensor) which alerts you when the filament has ran out or broken for Smart 3D Printing
There seems to be a dual-Z option, for an extra $80
---
### Hacked solution
For the second question, the XCSOURCE 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Detection Sensor Module Filament Run Out Pause Monitor for 3D Printer DIY Kit TE720,
the instructions state that it is designed principally for Lerdge control boards:
> Instruction:
>
> 1. When you are using a Lerdge brand motherboard: The green light on the motherboard will turn off when the filament runs out, the motherboard will stop printing until you supplement the filament and continue printing. (Please connect to the M-sensor Interface)
> 2. When you are using other brand motherboard: The Detection Module uses the level transition detection method. While there still have filament in the module, the detection port shows as high level; when there is no filament in the module, the detection port will transform to low level as "Filament Run Out Command" which will stop the printing, so you will have time to supplement the filament and continue printing.
So, it is not particularly clear as to whether it will work with your board - for it to do so, your board would need to have:
* A compatible input (i.e. X+ endstop);
* The compatible firmware (CR-10S), and;
* Use compatible logic levels (i.e. active `LOW` to shutdown printing).
If not, then given *point #2*, it would appear to require additional external logic, or microcontroller, to sense the *transition to `LOW`* and then shutdown the printer.
For example, this chap on Thingiverse, Cr-10 Filament Sensor Bracket & Tutorial, states that they bought a sensor off eBay, that looks *similar*, and they provide a printable mount and instructions on how to use it with a CR-10. However, it is not a standalone affair as shown in the CR-10 S4 - because an additional Raspberry Pi and OctoPrint is required.
To use this particular sensor with your board, you would need to:
1. See if which controller board you have - either the CR-10 *or* the CR-10S compatible board (see **Board Comparison** above). If it is the CR-10S therefore it has the compatible input (X+ endstop), and firmware, needed for the filament sensor,
2. Enable the use of the sensor, if necessary, in the firmware (either by the UI if possible or uploading new firmware) and;
3. Check whether the CR-10 controller board uses *active `LOW`* to detect a lack of filament (or again, this may be a UI, or firmware, setting)
You could test this last point yourself, by applying a `LOW` level voltage (i.e. grounding) to X+ endstop input on the control board (after checking the UI/firmware for appropriate settings), and see if that halts/pauses the print. If not, try a `HIGH` level (5 V). If it is active `HIGH` then you simply need to use an inverter (i.e. 4069), between the sensor and the X+ endstop connector.
---
### Board examples
There are two principle board options, v1.x and v2.x, the latter has dual Z stepper motor connectors and the former does not .For example:
Version 1.x, for CR-10 firmware - Motherboard Controller DIY Creality 3D® CR-10 / CR-10S 3D Printer CR-10 Upgrade Control Board12V (CR-10S Mainboard)
Version 2.x (2.1 in this case) with Dual Z stepper connectors, for CR-10S firmware - Luxnwatts CR-10S Mainboard Replacement Controller Board Upgrade V2.1 Motherboard For Creality S4 S5 3D Printer
> 4 votes
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Tags: desktop-printer, creality-cr-10
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thread-7019 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7019 | Using multiple infill types within one model | 2018-09-29T12:04:41.693 | # Question
Title: Using multiple infill types within one model
When modelling for 3D printing, can I distinguish somehow the type of infill in various areas of the model? Say there may be some areas in the model where I want 100% infill (maximum strength) but some areas where the infill can be less (maybe 25%).
I am new to 3D printing, doing my first model (enclosure for electronics - camera module). Using tinkercad.com only so far. Places where 100% infill is wanted are usually walls of the case and "threads" for the bolts but I want to make the enclosure as stiff as possible as a whole so I am thinking about using some sparse infill in the "free space" inside of the enclosure (so that it does not break so easily when it falls to the ground etc). I just do not know how to define this within the model.
# Answer
To achieve additional localised stiffness, you can also insert small voids (gaps) inside the model. These become double thickness walls once sliced and can be used to support things like screw holes.
See the 'negative' parts used with a cube, and the sliced result here:
> 3 votes
# Answer
I found out I misunderstood some principles of designing/modelling for 3D printing.
I designed my object for 100% infill which is not really necessary. It turned out that one does not mostly have to take care of the infill % and just model the object for example as solid 3D cube and the printing service will then take care of it to print well, hopefully slicing it well for printing and choosing the correct infill percentage.
So instead of designing a "hollow" cube with 3mm thick walls filled with 100% infill and free space inside, one can design a solid cube and the printing service will then print it "somehow" - they may make the walls only 1 mm thick but fill the inside of the cube with 10% infill which may work just fine for final object stiffness etc.
> 0 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, infill
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thread-7024 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7024 | What is the best method of printing joints for action figures? | 2018-09-29T20:44:29.700 | # Question
Title: What is the best method of printing joints for action figures?
I'm interested in 3D printing toy action figures, but what I don't quite know how the joints should be designed to allow flexibility.
I could imagine maybe something like a screw and nut for the arms and legs that are separated with a hole in the middle that can join them, but I don't know how to get a wider range of motion on shoulders and hips.
# Answer
> 4 votes
(NOTE: Converting comments to an answer.)
An interference fit would probably work. There are a couple of styles I can think of which would do. Here are some ideas from thingiverse.com which may work for your needs.
(image taken from this design by OgoSport)
With this style of ball/socket, you'd have very good articulation. More than enough movement to allow for a posable action figure.
Another idea from thingiverse.com is this:
(image from this design by NEMO\_from\_saturn)
The idea behind this style of joint is to insert it into each part (part fits over the end). This is premade and would be easy to utilize. The thing about this is, they are covered by the licensing involved with patterns found on thingiverse.
As with anything printed or mechanical, it will wear over time. You won't ever get *anything* which doesn't wear. It's just a fact of how it works. Some printed filaments will have better wear properties than others, like ABS, NylonX (polyamide with chopped carbon fiber strands), nylon, PET (PETG/PETT), or polypropylene (this is not all inclusive). Each filament has its own printing properties and idiosyncrasies, so pay attention to what needs to be done to print with them. This doesn't mean all of the parts need to be printed out of this material, but rather if using a joint (like the second image), you could print it out of the better wear material and print the rest out of filament which is cheaper and is easier to work with.
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Tags: 3d-design, mechanics
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thread-7023 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7023 | Tell tale signs bed tape has given up the ghost | 2018-09-29T16:11:30.780 | # Question
Title: Tell tale signs bed tape has given up the ghost
I use blue 3M Painter's tape to help with bed adhesion on my heated bed. Are there any tell tale signs which would lead me to believe I need to change the tape out?
For reference, I haven't been printing all that much, so the tape has been on there for some time. I took a look at it today and see there are some bubbles in the tape in the places where the last print I did was laid down. It appears the tape has lost some adhesion to the bed. I can run my fingers over it and it will re-stick to the bed, but is that good enough? (Obviously I'd re-clean the tape surface with isopropyl before I'd use it again, so not an issue there.)
The last thing I want to do is waste time and materials printing when I can be more proactive, so the real question here is:
**What signs might the tape be giving me it's time to change it out?**
# Answer
> 2 votes
Obviously, if the tape is torn or gouged in area that you intend to print on, you will need to replace it to have a good surface. If the damage is well clear of your first layer and will not risk snagging on printer mechanisms during movement, you may disregard it.
I can't really tell you how much bubbling is acceptable. If your prints still come out in with an acceptable quality, then it's OK. If it causes defects that you don't accept, or failed prints due to a loss of adhesion, then it's not.
When I started printing, I used painters tape, and would change it every few prints. To be honest, I was not very careful about protecting the tape when removing a print, and would often damage it. I also often found it easier to just peel the tape from the print bed as a way to remove a print. I don't even think I finished a single roll of tape before I eventually switched to glass/hairspray.
I never used isopropyl or other things to clean it between prints. If you are concerned with cost and waste, I would think this would be even more than simply changing the tape frequently.
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Tags: adhesion, maintenance
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thread-7027 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7027 | Anet A8 prints not good | 2018-09-30T10:30:51.530 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 prints not good
I bought my Anet A8 less than 2 weeks ago. The setup went fine. In the first 1 week, I printed a lot, and the quality was really good. Now, the quality of prints is really bad. The infill is terrible, like little individual sticks and there are strands of PLA attached to the object(see picture). My Cura settings are:
* layer height: 0.15 mm
* infill: 70 %
* infill pattern: grid
* printing temperature: 205 °C
* bed temperature: 55 °C
* print speed:35 mm/s (I reduced it from 60 to 35 thinking it might fix the issue, but no luck)
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
# Answer
> 4 votes
This effect you see is called stringing. Stringing can be reduced by changing any or a combination of the following slicer settings:
* lowering hot-end temperature, (less heat means less heat input so less runny filament oozing out),
* increasing travel speed, (increase in travel speed reduces the time to move to another point implying less filament oozing),
* retraction, (increased filament retraction reduces the pressure build-up in the hot-end decreasing the filament oozing)
* increasing coasting length (coasting means that you stop extruding filament prior to a move when the head is still printing, this is explained by the pressure build-up in the hot-end; ideally you set the coasting length as such that all the material that is pressed out as a result of the pressure build-up is extruded just before the head moves/travels to another location),
* print part cooling, (see this topic)
In order to find the correct settings you will need to print so called calibration test prints. There are a lot to find on Thingiverse, just search for "stringing".
Your print temperature may be a bit high, but some PLA filament brands require that, I don't know if that is the case with your filament, but you could start try lowering that by 5 °C a time.
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Tags: print-quality, diy-3d-printer, anet-a8
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