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thread-4326 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4326 | How to attach insulation to Hot End | 2017-07-02T05:32:47.887 | # Question
Title: How to attach insulation to Hot End
I bought some heating block cotton to insulate the exposed surface of my hot end. I thought the yellow as double-sticky but it appears to be Kapton.
What can I use to attach it to the extruder?
My extruder is already covered on four sides. I want to cover the other two.
# Answer
Kapton tape would be the logical material. It's unfortunate that your vendor did not supply that as a separate item, rather than sticking it to the "cotton" (I'm guessing not actually cotton, as things might get a bit scorching for cotton, so I'm assuming some type of ceramic fiber or the like.)
> 2 votes
# Answer
Not quite the answer to the question but closely related, so I venture. I use ordinary wool thread to insulate the hot end. I just wrap it carefully so it is covered everywhere. Very low cost, very effective. Wool can handle even the hottest extrusion temperatures easily.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: extruder
--- |
thread-7002 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7002 | CoreXY Calibration Issue | 2018-09-26T15:38:17.920 | # Question
Title: CoreXY Calibration Issue
I have a Tronxy X5S and I am having issues calibrating my X and Y axis. When I print a 20 mm<sup>3</sup> cube it comes out 19.9 mm x 20.4 mm x 20 mm. I have already made the belt tensions as even as I can get them but it did not change the calibration cube size.
I have added this upgrade to my printer for the idlers and motor mounts:
I have also upgraded the hotend to a V6 clone, after this change is when I noticed the discrepancy in the calibration print.
**What else can cause the X and Y axis to be uneven in a CoreXY printer besides uneven tension in the belts?**
UPDATE:
Its seems Oscar was correct in his assessment that my printer is not printing square. I printed this calibration square to measure the diagonals and I got: $ \overline{AC} = 141.82 $, $ \overline{BD} = 141.35 $. I believe the correct value for these diagonals should be $ \sqrt{2} \times 100 \approx 141.42 $.
Oscar also mentioned that I can adjust my firmware to correct this but I would rather fix the problem than apply a band-aid. Does this indicate that I did not assemble the printer frame correctly?
# Answer
Indeed, **even belt tension is important**, what helped me enormously to set the same tension in the belts on my self build CoreXY is a tool like this:
Furthermore, be sure that you **do not have any binding on the Y carriages** over the whole range. This causes inaccurate printing, e.g. outer walls not adhering to the inner walls (as I encountered myself in the beginning when tuning the printer), and thus inaccurate dimensions.
Also make sure that the **print is not skew**, i.e. are you sure that the printer prints squares? This can be easily checked by printing a large square and measure the diagonals; I used this as it will also help you find the center of the bed and the level of the bed all at once:
but many calibration prints can be found on the internet, e.g. this one but this requires way more filament to print). Schematically this results in something like depicted below:
If it is not square, you can adjust this by using a different firmware like e.g. Marlin Firmware which has options for skewness compensation that can be addressed in the Marlin Configuration.h file. A "cube" that is printed by stacking parallelograms also shows different dimensions is X and Y (one being smaller, the other being larger).
***Edit***
You mention that you changed the hotend; it is recommended to calibrate the extruder after changing. Note that a few tenths of a mm are very common, usually X and Y should be in the range of 20.1 mm ± 0.1 mm for such a calibration cube.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Oscar's answer is the correct solution to this issue. My printer was printing skewed and there is a built in correction for this in Marlin. Unfortunately the X5S does not have a boot loader and I don't have an ISP programmer (yet), so I am unable to re-flash my board at the moment.
In the mean time I created a software fix for this issue. I used a script to add a Affine Shear Transformation to the stl file. This adds a reverse skew to the model so the print comes out (closer to) square. Basically read all the points from the triangle mesh (STL file), apply XY shear transformation preserving Z, re-save the STL.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: calibration, corexy
--- |
thread-4624 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4624 | Tevo Tarantula incorrectly auto leveling of bed | 2017-09-14T11:55:32.940 | # Question
Title: Tevo Tarantula incorrectly auto leveling of bed
I decided to try and setup the bed auto level sensor.
I downloaded this firmware: TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware and followed this tutorial, YouTube - Setting Up Auto Bed Leveling (Tevo Tarantula).
**Firmware Config files:**
A few things happened after that:
1. The bed will not level
2. The Z axis goes up to approx. the middle...
3. The printer is in no situation to print
I probably got something wrong...
The machine goes to the leveling points, but is approximately 10 cm above the bed.
# Answer
> 1 votes
From your `configuration.h` file you see that (in line 643):
```
#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS
```
is *not* commented out, there is no `//` in front, so this means that manual homing with accompanying coordinates *is* enabled.
This should *not* be enabled, as this setting is used by Delta printers only. This may cause the problems you experience as there may be some sort of a conflict between manual and auto positioning.
---
Tags: calibration, firmware, bed-leveling, tevo-tarantula
--- |
thread-4621 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4621 | Tevo Tarantula I3 filament clogging up | 2017-09-14T10:01:49.140 | # Question
Title: Tevo Tarantula I3 filament clogging up
I have just finished assembling a TT I3, with a large heated bed 220x280, a couple of weeks ago and my first print went well.
After a few initial experiments I noticed that the filament will not stick. I have manually leveled the bed over and over again, added a glass sheet over the bed, applied masking-tape and what-not.
The filament still will not stick, it will curl up on the nozzle, clog the nozzle and all sorts of other issues...
Everything functions properly but it seems like the extruder is trying to push more then the nozzle is actually putting out. My filament is 1.75 mm.
Can anyone help with all this so I can get something printed decently?
I am printing with PLA, I started off with 50 °C, raised it to 60 °C, and last time I tried to print a filament spool holder with 70 °C (twice), still if layer is thin it will not stick.
After cleaning the bed with alcohol 70%, you can see the issue in these videos:
# Answer
> 1 votes
Getting that first layer to stick is sometimes pretty hard, you just need to find a good combination of settings. Clearly your filament does not stick too well as the brim comes off after been laid down after a while.
Parameters that affect adhesion are:
* Bed temperature; a temperature close to the glass temperature is favorable as the filament is soft at that temperature, the stresses are low due to this softness and the smaller temperature difference. *You already tried to increase bed temperature: 50 - 60 °C should be fine for PLA, there is no need to go higher than 60 °C*,
* Hotend temperature; the temperature of the filament deposition could be increased for the initial layer, usually a 5 °C increase over the standard temperature should be enough,
* Overextrusion; a small over-extrusion on the first layer (filament flow scale factor larger than 100 %) could sometimes help to better adhere the first layer, but usually this means that the nozzle to bed distance is too large,
* Correct leveling and correct nozzle to bed distance; level the bed as good as possible or scan the bed and use mesh leveling if the build platform does not have a uniform (flat) shape, also make sure the distance between the nozzle is correct: too small or too big cause the filament not to stick very well.
* Debris in nozzle; debris in nozzle can cause non-uniform extrusion, cleaning the nozzle with the atomic method (heating up the nozzle, inserting filament, cooling down the nozzle and finally yanking out the filament cleaning all the cooked stuff inside),
* Cleanness of the bed; make sure the bed is not greasy,
* Tack of the bed; the use of a PVA based substance on the bed like e.g. gluestick, hairspray or specific printer sprays like 3DLAC increase the bed adhesion considerably,
* Bed preparation; sanding the bed to roughen the platform, using tape, etc. are all tricks to get the filament to stick better.
Either one of the suggested parameters or a selection of these are the answer to your question, just figure out what works best for your printer.
---
Tags: filament, extruder, heated-bed, tevo-tarantula
--- |
thread-7034 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7034 | Issues with Auto Bed Leveling | 2018-10-01T06:28:20.407 | # Question
Title: Issues with Auto Bed Leveling
I have enabled auto bed leveling on my 3D printer. I have used a 6-36 V inductive sensor with a 7805 voltage regulator running the sensor at 10.78 V.
I am using Marlin 1.1.9. This is my configuration file for Marlin firmware. I used this video for marlin setup.
I have done a voltage regulator setup by using this video.
I have place an Aluminium plate with insulated copper wire. (I also tried an Iron plate). After Setting this I use Pronterface to control the printer. While homing command is given the XY axis gets home and Z axis moves downwards and doesn't stops even the Light in the sensor gets ON. This video I made shows that it does not stop.
And also once the Zmin gets TRIGGERED, it is always TRIGGERED.
After I enabled SAFE\_HOMING, the XY axis comes to the centre of the printer. And Z axis goes down again without stopping.
Please help me in this.
# Answer
> 6 votes
Your problem is that the hotend carriage does not stop when the sensor triggers. I assume you mean *"on homing"*, not *"while printing"* *(UPDATE: after watching the video it is confirmed that it is "on homing")*. **First**, the working and this difference is explained. **Thereafter** your configuration file is assessed and typical errors or inconsistencies are reported. Note that assassing an existing configuration file is more work than for you to start over taking the consideration below into account. Also look into this answer which describes what you need to do starting from a clean configuration file.
---
*Note:<br>Why not test if the sensor works at higher Z values by using a metal screwdriver to test if the head stops, then you do not run into the bed (with way less chance to damage your printer). From the video you can see that the sensor triggers, does the signal also gets registered by the printer board? With `M119` you test the endstop status of all endstops.*
---
**Auto bed leveling theory**
An auto level sensor does not trigger exactly when the nozzle hits the bed like in normal leveling using switches. The sensor is meant to detect the bed **before** the nozzle touches the bed. It is the offset that you define with command `M851` e.g. `M851 Z-1.85` that determines the correct offset between sensor trigger point and the nozzle. After homing `G28` and auto bed leveling `G29`, the nozzle needs to get under the sensor trigger point (e.g. in the example above it is then still 1.85 mm away from the platform) so while **printing** it is perfectly fine that the sensor stays triggered until printing height gets above 1.85 mm. This gives an answer why you see the head go past the trigger point when printing, when homing or leveling that should not happen.
**Configuration file observations**
From your configuration can be seen that
```
//#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
```
is not enabled, this is advised to enable. This is important, but not the complete solution.
Also, you have not defined the auto leveling area by setting the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach). In your config you will find disabled constants for (see also this answer or question: "How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?"):
```
//#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE
//#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
//#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE
//#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
You only have defined a Y sensor offset in your configuration :
```
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 43
```
but the video and the comments say otherwise, you should therefore should have set:
```
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 43
```
so e.g. the following could work (depending on the offset from limit switch position to printer origin):
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
Another part in your configuration that need further inspection is your offset from limit switch position (when homing) to printer origin; you have:
```
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
```
This is very unlikely, but possible, it means as is that the X=0 and Y=0 is exactly on the limit switches for X and Y. Usually this is not the case and you see negative values for these constants.
All-in-all, your configuration file has a lot of problems which need to be fixed. To solve your problem you need to read into configuring Marlin. Once you got the printer working fine you progress to an ABL sensor and make the correct settings in the configuration by using the hints above.
---
Tags: marlin, diy-3d-printer, bed-leveling, inductive-sensor
--- |
thread-7041 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7041 | Does PETG fade in the sun? | 2018-10-01T17:30:20.100 | # Question
Title: Does PETG fade in the sun?
I'm looking at scanning in a statue on my pond and making a print of it. I'm wondering if PETG will fade and how fast. I'm thinking of using white or maybe a bone color if possible.
If PETG fades kinda fast, what material should I use? Keep in mind this will deal with all weather types, full sun, and it will have water coming out of it.
I've been 3D printing for a bit, but I never made anything to stay outside for looks. I know PETG is pretty good at water, and I think it's stronger than ABS when it comes to weather. But I'm in NC, and I even lived in FL at a point. Shockingly, I found the sound in NC can bleach wood in a matter of days to weeks in the mid of summer where it might take all summer in FL. So I'm worried what I might make will get that yellow fade look that plastic does in the sun.
# Answer
**tl dr:** For the most part, yes it should be color fast in the sun. It should be good for outdoor use.
This website claims the following:
> Filament materials ... for outdoor use include ASA and PETG that are perfect for use in extreme conditions without changing shape or appearance. Printed pieces do not change colour either with the sun's UV rays and do not take on a yellowish appearance as does ABS, for example.
Please realize, this is partially an advertisement (and no, I have no affiliation). What it boils down to is, PETG and ASA are going to be better for outdoor use, but every brand of each is going to be a little different in how well it reacts to the elements. Without advertising on the site, you'd need to do a little investigating on your own, with the possibility of testing different brands to come up with what you believe is the best. Beyond that, it's just an opinion.
I doubt any filament, no matter what it is made of, is going to be perfectly colorfast in the sun. The sun is a harsh beast. It *will* bleach a printed object over time. Some colors are going to be more susceptible than others, especially red. This is due to the color of the sun. Again, some filaments are going to be better than others, but I'd not expect *any* filament to be perfect.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: petg
--- |
thread-7070 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7070 | How do I add auto bed levelling to my Marlin-based CNC? | 2018-10-02T11:33:08.153 | # Question
Title: How do I add auto bed levelling to my Marlin-based CNC?
I just finished a CNC that uses Marlin Firmware. The dimensions of it are quite large (3200 x 2000 mm) and the table is not perfect. I'm thinking of adding a proximity sensor to store a mesh in the eeprom and thus compensate for any errors. I'm not sure how to do this. I would like to be able to execute an action from the display (full graphics) and have samples taken over the whole table, but I do not know how to tell the firmware where to take the samples, nor what the dimensions of it are.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Auto bed leveling requires some settings (constants) in the configuration of your Marlin firmware.
It is recommended to read about the implementation of automatic bed leveling first. There are a few options to choose the kind of leveling, for 3D printers a commonly chosen option is `AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR` which is the best option if you do not know if your bed is flat or not. If you are certain it is flat but tilted (e.g. when you have a milled bed or a glass plate in 3D printing) you could go for `AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT` or `AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR`.
What further is important is the sensor type you choose. Do you want a touch or a proximity sensor. The latter is your preference (as specified in your question), which is a little simpler as you do not need to configure for servos for deploying and stowing.
You need to set:
```
#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
```
for using a fixed proximity sensor.
In the configuration file you also need to specify the position of the probe in relation to the nozzle (in your case tool center):
```
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
```
and optionally:
```
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
```
This latter is not necessary as you can always set the distance of the sensor trigger point to the nozzle/tool plane by G-code command `M851 Z-x.xx`
You would also need to set the boundaries of the probe area to prevent the tool to hit unwanted positions (fill out values or leave the constants):
```
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
Once properly setup, command `G29` runs the leveling of the bed, options are available for that command to store the bed mesh to EEPROM.
Enabling `LCD_BED_LEVELING` constant in the configuration file will add a Bed Leveling sub-menu to the LCD. But you could also work with SD-card stored files that load these codes.
This reference explains the automatic leveling in more detail, but there are many more detailed guides to follow from the internet. Be sure that you get a recent guide to that is easier to set in the latest firmware.
---
Tags: bed-leveling, cnc
--- |
thread-3902 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3902 | Is it possible to 3D print sharp objects with high details? And how? | 2017-04-21T15:53:52.980 | # Question
Title: Is it possible to 3D print sharp objects with high details? And how?
I mean 3D forms like these? In a small scale (height: 1-2 cm, width: 0.5 cm).
I want to keep all the form's details.
If it is possible, what printer do you advise? How much does it cost to print one piece like that in terms of ink? And what is the most permissive software for this kind of printing?
# Answer
Best option for something like this would be to use an SLA printer. They can do sharper image detail compared to FDM style printers.
That being said, printing something like this poses its own set of challenges. In order to print a part, some surface needs to be in contact with the built platform, and depending on which surface chosen, you will end up with having some amount of overhang, or undercut. Not an issue in and of itself as these can be supported with support structures. For the size that you're looking at printing though, removal of the support material will be a bigger challenge.
As for costing of this, that's not something that this forum is used for, but these structures don't look absurdly difficult to print. If you were to contact a local print shop, or check on Google for an online print house, they will be able to give you costing on printing these.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Sla printers would be the best, but if you are using an FDM printer, set it to a lower speed and male sure you get the orientation right so that most of the edges don't get ruined by supports. You should also get a higher quality 0.2mm nozzle and set it to the lowest layer height you can achieve on your slicer.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You could use something like a Stratsys Objet 30 Pro.
The printer uses layers of liquid deposited on a bed and cured with UV light, instead of extruded plastics. This just means that the level of detail you can achieve is far higher than that typically achieved by a conventional ABS or PLA printer. That being said, the materials and machine hours tend to be more expensive than conventional printers (about 40% higher in the specific facility I am exposed to).
If you are well versed in 3D printing, you could play around with the air-gapping (forced overlapping of layers due to z-axis head positioning in ABS and PLA). Can cause wear on the head, and takes some playing with but in some cases has yielded me a higher perceived level of detail. Also, makes some part features stronger.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Don't waste your time on SLA or FDM machines.
If you use SLA, it might print but you risk breaking the sharp edges during support removal and FDM is just a another level of pain for support removal.
Print this using SLS and Polyamide 2200 or PA 12, they both are the same material.
Should come out of the machine exactly the way you need with those sharp edges intact.
SLS technology does not require any support material.
You should be able to get it printed at any professional service bureau near to you, just google to find them.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, software, print-material, post-processing
--- |
thread-7042 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7042 | How can I have a large 3D printed object? | 2018-10-01T22:36:29.540 | # Question
Title: How can I have a large 3D printed object?
I have a concept that's roughly 18"x30" (about 457x762 mm), and I just realized that the Makerbot and similar printers only allow dimensions around the size of a piece of paper. What are other options? Are there large 3D printers I just don't know about? I looked up TMC injection mold, but couldn't find anything on size (most links go to PDFs with printer images).
Is injection even in the same "world" as 3D..? Sorry for confusing the two.
# Answer
As Trish states, a print service would appear to be your best bet. Building a printer large enough may work out costing more than the print service, especially if it is only for one print of a proof of concept.
Anecdotally, I visited a 3D Printing shop in Bangkok, JWH High tech Garden, that had a *huge* Delta printer that had, reputably, cost a million baht (~£20000) if my memory serves me correctly, and was capable of producing prints up to 1000 mm x 600 mm (39.37" x 23.62"):
However, the print service was not cheap at all. In May 2017, I was quoted 68000-100000 baht (~£1360-2000) for some printed parts (the proteins) for a Wilson II 3D printer, which are about only £70 on eBay!
However, it is worth taking into consideration that, at the moment, Thailand is very expensive for 3D printing in general, as it is relatively new there, and so prices for both printers and print services are high.
> 8 votes
# Answer
I do not know about your project, but the size of the final object.
# Smaller prints glued together
Just design smaller parts and glue them together. Take a look on this video, where Joel Telling glues OpenRC Formula parts.
# Hangprinter
Interesting concept is Hangprinter where volume size depends on your room size. It's a RepRap so you have to build it yourself. Components price should be around 500$.
# Buy a big printer
If your budget is bigger then you can buy a printer. See following lists:
# Print service
If you have higher budget and you need just one, two prints, then you can use 3d printing services like 3dhubs. Such services use large printers. See a list on all3dp.com.
> 7 votes
# Answer
# Yes<sup>If you have the money</sup>
Either read here or look at the ones I plucked out of that list to show you:
First of all, 3D printers on FDM basis can become quite large, if you pay extra. And the price goes up really fast as the dimensions grow because the demands on stability grow exponentially.
# Larger Printers?
One example of a "scaling" printer family is the CR-10: The baseline CR-10 is about 300x300x400 mm, so about 12x12x16 inch for 400\\$. Not enough? 400x400x400 on the CR-10 S4 for ca 760\\$. 500x500x500 on the CR-10 S5 for 900\\$. That's 20 inch in all directions. But that's still not enough, isn't it? Well, if you need to go larger, you need to go professional...
# Going Big!
Well, there are printers like the gCreate gMax 1.5 XT+ (406x406x533 mm) for a mere 3000\\$. That's enough, isn't it? Well, we can even go *bigger*: 610x610x610 mm for a mere 3500\\$ on the Modix Big 60.
Still not satisfied? Industrial machines can go even larger! A BigRep Studio for the *little* price of 50000\\$ could achieve 500x1000x500 mm.
# Even more? Go Parametric!
As amra mentioned, the Hangpringer project of printers has no "set" build size, but you will have to provide a build platform of fitting size and a room it can work in undisturbed and with filament supply ready... just... bring a ladder? And be wary of people tripping over wires... and somehow find a ginormous, evenly heated bed somewhere...
# Ways around
## Assembly
That is a little overkill, isn't it? Well, the first thing you need to remember when 3D printing is: unless you make a functional part that has to have certain dimensions, feel free to scale it down if it is just for visuals. Then, you can assemble prints. Like, take a smaller printer and print the object in halves or quarters. Then glue it back together.
## Order
You don't want or can't assemble the part? Well, there are printing services out there that have these larger scale printers I mentioned (or at least similar ones) that offer to make your parts for you and then ship them to you. Usually, that is much more cost effective than buying one of these ginormous printers yourself.
> 4 votes
# Answer
So long as you are not dealing with MortonThiokol issues, there is a simple tradeoff: high-cost printer vs. breaking down your design into smaller parts with assembly features. Many designers publish designs which snap-fit together; others suggest glue; still others go the safe route of providing clearance holes and requiring metal nuts&bolts to assemble.
In sum - if you can deal with separate parts, you can print everything on a standard bed size.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, 3d-design, cad
--- |
thread-7083 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7083 | Strange walls/faces when importing self made model from Blender to Cura 3 | 2018-10-03T11:48:53.890 | # Question
Title: Strange walls/faces when importing self made model from Blender to Cura 3
I wanted to create a coin stacking device similar to this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:499177
But I wanted to only 3 coins, 5c, 2c, and 1c. Unfortunately the STL came in pretty messy after importing to Blender, which made it difficult to edit the model to have only 3 stacks. So I decided to create my own. I used a box and three cylinders with the diameter of the coins + 2mm so the coins can fall loose into the stack. The cylinders where used for boolean modify the box to create the stack gaps.
Exporting the model as an obj and importing them to Cura showed it getting strange diagonal faces at the stack gaps and at the top.
After slicing however the faces were gone and the test print came out pretty decent, even on low quality settings the measurement were quite exact.
Still I would like to know why these additional faces appear and how to prevent that. I am not a blender expert, but I guess it has to do something with the topology/faces? I started creating additional edges in Blender for the isolated vertex created by the boolean modifier, but I don't know if that's actually necessary for a 3d printed model that's not going to be textured ect.
# Answer
It is quite common for modelling operations to result in 'non manifold geometry', meaning that some of the faces intersect or are not perfectly joined.
Although there is nothing obvious in your model, you can check in blender by going into edit mode, unselect all, selecting nodes, and 'select all by attribute/non manifold' Ctl-Alt-Shift-M (if I remember right).
Usually this happens with boolean operations where you merge the same object twice (i.e. union for the hole, then difference with the cut part). You would need to apply the boolean to see the non-manifold result.
Any of the standard mesh fixing tools will attempt to clean up your exported STL, and you could then import the model back into blender (but then it is a one way process, and you can't make updates to the base model).
> 6 votes
# Answer
Judging from your second screenshot, I'd say that Cura does not like n-gons very much.
An n-gon is any polygon with more than 4 sides. Most software tries to convert these polygons into triangles, with solutions that may not be what you want. Obviously, if you triangulate your surfaces manually this problem becomes moot.
Go to Modifiers, add the Triangulate modifier, click apply.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Not sure about Blender, but MeshMixer has a "Plane Cut" tool that would allow you to take the source STL file and cut off the parts you don't want. That might save you some pain.
But if the final sliced **gcode** file works, don't worry too much.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, 3d-models, slicing, blender
--- |
thread-783 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/783 | Printing insoles | 2016-03-17T22:10:00.853 | # Question
Title: Printing insoles
I would like to make custom insoles for my wife.
This company makes a flexible filament that will be soft to stand on: http://recreus.com/en/
I do not currently own a printer.
How can I measure her feet and transfer the measurements to the printer? (one of these comes to mind: http://www.eggheadtoys.com/pin-art/)
How can I measure the inside of the shoe?
What kind of printer can print with the flexible filament?
# Answer
Here is a post that covers how to scan a foot and make a form fitting insole - https://web.archive.org/web/20180429035945/http://www.gyrobot.co.uk/blog/my-adventures-with-3d-printed-insoles-part-4-4
Here are links to the rest of the blog - Part 1 of 4 \- Part 2 of 4 \- Part 3 of 4
Any printer should be capable of the temperature required for flexible filament. The main problem with flexible filament is the path between the drive gears and entrance to the hotend must be completely constrained or the filament will push out of any gap. Ninjaflex is very flexible and absolutely will not work unless you constrain it right after the contact point with the drive gear. Semiflex is another flexible filament but quite a bit stiffer than Ninjaflex, I've never used it but it should be a bit more forgiving on the path requirements.
I know there are several other flexible filaments but I've never worked with them so I only mentioned Ninjaflex which I have used.
The model used in the blog can be found here - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:586514
> 3 votes
# Answer
In short, my opinion is that 3D printing is not the most ideal or cost effective means to accomplish your objective. I'm sure with just as much research, you can find an existing consumer product.
However, to answer your question, you have a few options that come to mind:
* Simply make a mould using supplies from your local craft store. Once a mould is made, look into a castable material that will be comfortable, though this may be difficult.
* If you're dedicated towards 3D printing the insole. Try getting hold of a local service that can use a 3D Laser Scanner to get a mesh model. The same service might even be able to create solid model of the desired insole if you have dimensions of the shoe you wish to use. Next, you'll need to contact another service to 3D print the insole (most likely in nylon or similar) or, if you have a 3D printer, print the insole yourself. If you are considering printing yourself, and have not before used a material like nylon, please review the material specifications. Some suppliers recommend the use of a heated build plate with these type of materials to ensure the material properties are retained during heating/cooling.
I'm suggesting Laser Scanning as it will be the most economical and flexible means of reverse engineering the dimensions you're requesting. Other options, such as a Coordinate Measuring Machine or X-Ray may would be quite uncomfortable and impractical.
Ultimately, I would look into something like this instead. I'm not endorsing any product or company, but something like this may be the best solution for you.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Many questions in one post, but I'll address only the first. Consider to use a shoe with a flat insole, perhaps even what is commonly called a flip-flop. If your objective is to perfectly match the curve of her foot bottom, this should work. Apply a layer of polymer modeling clay, plasticine or similar material. It should be warm enough to permit her foot/feet to settle in and push enough material away to remove any voids. If voids appear, one could then add a few blobs and repeat the pressure.
Obviously some will ooze from the sides, which will have to be trimmed away. Trim a sufficient amount to fit her regular shoes and you'll have a reasonable match of the necessary fit.
The resulting shape can then be scanned with a 3d scanner and converted to a 3d model. Even if the clay is excessively thick, the typical 3d model editor can slice away the excess, although one would have to make an almost arbitrary judgement for the location of the slicing plane.
Another option comes to mind. There are various silicone molding products. I've used one from makeyourownmolds.com that is of a consistency of frosting. When mixed together and applied, it makes a perfect duplicate of the item, in reverse. Another product sold at the local HobbyLobby is a similar molding compound that is more akin to the modeling clay.
Both compounds will release easily from skin, are non-toxic and would provide a more durable model from which to scan.
I think one difficulty you may have is how to determine the correct foot pressure and posture to achieve the desired results. The modeling clay would give you more support and probably be more accurate. If your objective is to provide the same support as a bare foot, the silicone molding method would be more accurate.
If you stretch the concept even further, once you have the silicone or clay mold, you would be able to use the pin-art concept. The idea of measuring each tiny pin is mind-boggling, though.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I have given this some thought prior since, I am also in need of such things, so here is my 2 cents.
> How can I measure her feet and transfer the measurements to the printer?
If you want to be very accurate, then you will need a 3d scanner. Failing this, then you're most likely going to have to take an outline. Just let her stand on a piece of paper and draw an outline of her foot. Next get a document scanner and scan the trace. You could also take a photo but you will have issues getting the correct scale. Assuming your outline is black, convert the scanned outline to a vector file using an online source or Adobe Illustrator (e.g https://vectormagic.com). Once you have a vector outline then import it into your cad software and begin modeling the insole.
> How can I measure the inside of the shoe?
Remove the exsisting insole (if possible) and scan it in a document scanner.
> What kind of printer can print with the flexible filament?
Any direct drive extruder can print with Ninjaflex or other flexible filament. You could also try PORO-LAY, but it is much more expensive. I'd advise you to do you test runs in PLA or something cheap until you get the correct fit.
> 0 votes
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Tags: filament, desktop-printer
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thread-3731 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3731 | MKS base 1.5 (E0 & E1) not working | 2017-03-12T19:08:39.763 | # Question
Title: MKS base 1.5 (E0 & E1) not working
I have bought two MKS base 1.5 boards. Both extruder ports are not working. I made sure the stepper motor still works and that there is nothing wrong with the Marlin firmware that I know of.
Any ideas?
# Answer
<sub>*The OP has solved the problem as read from a comment on a deleted answer. So far the OP has been reluctant to post the answer; therefore his comment is converted into a community answer.*</sub>
---
It appears that the OP had incorrectly configured his firmware considering the comment:
*"I figured out what was wrong. Turns out the no extrude command was uncommented and worked fine when changed the min temp on it."*
> 1 votes
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Tags: extruder, marlin, stepper
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thread-5239 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5239 | Auto bed leveling with BL Touch sensor crashing to bed | 2018-01-07T21:54:45.857 | # Question
Title: Auto bed leveling with BL Touch sensor crashing to bed
I'm new to 3d printing and I recently bought a Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B along with a BL Touch (3D touch) sensor to do auto bed leveling.
I printed the sensor holder, mounted it and the sensor to the extruder carriage and uploaded a configured Marlin firmware to the printer. It worked great for about 6 times and now, it crashes on the bed on the two points on the right of the bed.
I tried manually leveling the bed thinking that the nozzle was touching the bed plate before the sensor's needle could, but that's not the case. Even with the bed manually leveled, when using `G29` (Auto Bed Leveling code), the Z-axis carriage crashes into the bed.
What can I do/check?
# Answer
As it turns out, my Z-axis carriage mount to the X-axis was bent, causing the nozzle to touch the bed before the proble could get a chance to detect anything. Manually bending it back to the correct angle solved the problem.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, calibration, bed-leveling, z-probe
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thread-7092 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7092 | Help with a Tool Change Script | 2018-10-03T15:00:06.977 | # Question
Title: Help with a Tool Change Script
So, I have a Raise3D Pro2, and I'm looking to perfect a tool change script for it, the goal of which is to reduce or eliminate the excess plastic that tends to build up on the nozzle when using the dual extruder. The printer uses the Marlin G-code flavor, and although I'm not sure this matters, I'm slicing in ideaMaker. The script is supposed to flow as follows:
* Retract current tool
* Move to X30 Y300
* Check if the new active tool is T0
+ If T0, wipe nozzle 2mm circle
+ If T0, cool T1 to 165C
+ If T0, heat T0 to 230C
+ If T0 and not layer 1, recover
+ If T0, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool
* Check if the new active tool is T1
+ If T1, wipe nozzle 2mm circle
+ If T1, cool T0 to 165C
+ If T1, heat T1 to 230C
+ If T1 and not layer 1, recover
+ If T1, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool
The current script I have looks like this:
```
; extruder switch gcode start
G10 S1; Retract for current nozzle
G1 X30 Y300 F6000; Move to X:30 Y:300
[if {new_extruder}=0]; LEFT Extruder is active (T0)
[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle
[if {new_extruder}=0]M104 S165 T1; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T1)
[if {new_extruder}=0]M109 S230 T0; Heat active extruder to 230c (T0) and wait.
[[if {new_extruder}=0] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle when not first layer
[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle
[if {new_extruder}=1]; RIGHT Extruder is active (T1)
[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle
[if {new_extruder}=1]M104 S165 T0; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T0)
[if {new_extruder}=1]M109 S230 T1; Heat active extruder to 230c (T1) and wait.
[[if {new_extruder}=1] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle
[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle
; extruder switch gcode end
```
The issue is that, when I run a print with this, it doesn't seem to run all of the commands. It does the move, and the cooling/heating, but the retract/recover and nozzle wipe doesn't seem to read. I'm not sure if that's because of a printer or syntax issue, or because those commands don't work the way I think they do.
**EDIT:** (by Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 - Added new code and logic back in)
New logic:
* Retract current tool
* Move to X30 Y300
* Check if the new active tool is T0
+ If T0, wipe nozzle 2mm circle
+ If T0, cool T1 to 165C
+ If T0, heat T0 to 230C
+ If T0 and not layer 1, recover
+ If T0, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool
* Check if the new active tool is T1
+ If T1, wipe nozzle 2mm circle
+ If T1, cool T0 to 165C
+ If T1, heat T1 to 230C
+ If T1 and not layer 1, recover
+ If T1, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool
The new script I have looks like this:
```
; extruder switch gcode start
G10 S1; Retract for current nozzle
G1 X30 Y300 F6000; Move to X:30 Y:300
[if {new_extruder}=0]; LEFT Extruder is active (T0)
[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle
[if {new_extruder}=0]M104 S165 T1; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T1)
[if {new_extruder}=0]M109 S230 T0; Heat active extruder to 230c (T0) and wait.
[[if {new_extruder}=0] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle when not first layer
[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle
[if {new_extruder}=1]; RIGHT Extruder is active (T1)
[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle
[if {new_extruder}=1]M104 S165 T0; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T0)
[if {new_extruder}=1]M109 S230 T1; Heat active extruder to 230c (T1) and wait.
[[if {new_extruder}=1] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle
[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle
; extruder switch gcode end
```
# Answer
> 3 votes
As far as I can recognize, the g-code file cannot be evaluated **by printer firmware**.
It is expected that slicer software will be aware of tool head selection and process tool changes according to g-code provided in an on-tool change in most slicers.
The best way to think about g-code (in RepRap word) is a one-way communication as the file is not treated as a script that can read and evaluate parameters on the go. (firmware capabilities).
references:
RepRap G-code list Printer quick start guide
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Tags: marlin, g-code, scripts
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thread-5275 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5275 | Compiling Marlin 2.0 | 2018-01-12T22:00:32.157 | # Question
Title: Compiling Marlin 2.0
I've just finished building a new printer and I wanted to take advantage of a 32 bits board I ordered some time ago. The board is an MKS SBase 1.3
I've been researching the Smoothiware firmware but somehow I'm not convinced by it yet. One of the things pulling me off is the Z-Probe behavior. On my Arduino-Marlin 1.1.8 machine, I have a probe which serves as both probe and Z-Endstop without a problem and very elegant implemented whereas on Smoothie, it's not so trivial as far as I've seen.
Anyway, there is a branch of Marlin which is not yet for release but for testing and it supports 32 bits boards, being mine mentioned above one of them:
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x
I have yet to find some documentation explaining how to install it. The closest thing I found is a thread on their GitHub "forum":
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8131
It seems that you have to build the project to create a firmware.bin file which you can copy to the microSD card and it will flash automatically to the board... again, no "official" documentation found.
I've tried the steps described in this thread but I'm not able to compile for my board as it gives an error no matter what:
```
Marlin/src/gcode/eeprom/M500-M504.cpp:74:5: error: no matching function for call to 'MarlinSettings::report(bool, int16_t&)'
```
Has somebody successfully compiled this firmware? Is there something I might be doing wrong?
I'm on a macOS machine, using Atom as editor with the Platformio-IDE installed.
Any help is appreciated, Thanks in advance!
# Answer
> 2 votes
Well I found the solution on Marlin's GitHub:
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9155
but it might have been solved without having to hack the file since then.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I have been using Marlin 2.0 bugfix for several months with no issues on my RAMPS 1.4 based printer. Installing it is the same as any other printer firmware, or rather, uploading any Arduino sketch. In fact, rather than searching "how to upload Marlin Firmware" you should instead search "How to upload an Arduino Sketch" as most printers are Arduino powered and the process is the same as making a simple LED blink program, granted the source code is MUCH bigger. The quick & dirty is: Download and install the latest Arduino IDE and make sure your board is recognized by following instructions for your board. In the Marlin directory from the downloaded firmware, open the .ino file in Arduino IDE. On the tabs above, you will see Configuration.H and Configuration\_adv.h those are the 2 files to edit, and ONLY 2 unless you are familiar with what you are doing, plus Marlin 2.0 redid the file layout so you shouldn't get confused by 20+ other files open also as in 1.x. The comments give you a good idea of what to change & google will help with the rest. Once done, click on Compile & Upload in the Arduino tools, and done.
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Tags: marlin, firmware
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thread-6643 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6643 | Z-axis endstop not functioning after Marlin Firmware installation | 2018-08-13T03:40:23.727 | # Question
Title: Z-axis endstop not functioning after Marlin Firmware installation
I've had my Monoprice Maker Ultimate for a few months and have started doing upgrades to it. My most recent change is in upgrading the firmware to a newer version of Marlin so that I can better control the thermal settings and implement a probe in the future. For now, I intend to level the bed manually.
Well the issue I'm having now is that after flashing the firmware (Marlin Firmware 1.1.9) and attempting to home, the z axis limit switch is unresponsive. X and Y work as they should. I send M119 codes to the printer in Pronterface when holding the Z switch with my finger and get that the z axis is open. I even flipped over the machine and shorted out the two pins on the board leading to the switch and I get that its still open.(It is open when not pressing the switch, the switch is not inverted. If I flash the firmware back to the original, it functions fine.
I've been digging through the Marlin files learning how it works and am wondering if there are any extra steps I have to take to designate the switches in the config file. Or if a conflicting bed leveling/probe setting may be overriding with the switch's functionality. I've been searching around but haven't seen much about this issue. Wondering if someone could point me in the right direction.
Here's a repository of my `configuration.h` and `*_adv.h` files: https://github.com/jeffc-git/3dimensify
# Answer
> 5 votes
After gaining more of an understanding of how Marlin works, I decided to look through the the pins file for the motherboard I am using "pins\_ULTIMAIN\_2.h". Sure enough, It had a the wrong pin number for the z stop specified. After changing that number, I gained full functionality.
This is what they should be:
```
#define X_STOP_PIN 22
#define Y_STOP_PIN 26
#define Z_STOP_PIN 29
```
---
Tags: marlin, z-axis, endstop, monoprice-maker-ultimate
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thread-7130 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7130 | Does the Ender 3 need an 8 pin mini USB or 5 pin, or no difference? | 2018-10-07T08:08:17.160 | # Question
Title: Does the Ender 3 need an 8 pin mini USB or 5 pin, or no difference?
I've been searching for a reassuring answer for a week now. What type of mini USB does the Creality Ender 3 need? I have studied about them and five pin seems to be the answer but I haven't found a reassuring answer.
If anyone knows the answer would you please inform me?
# Answer
> 7 votes
The ender 3 follows the USB standard for a USB-2.0/2.0 revised 5 pin USB-Mini-B.
To prove, a picture of it. Left, you can clearly count the 5 pins that conform to the standard.
as a side note: There is no 8 pin USB-Mini - Mini has the T-shape. In fact, there is not even a USB standard conform plug that has 8-pins! The standard allows only 4, 5, 9, 11 and 24 pins
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Tags: creality-ender-3
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thread-7122 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7122 | PETG filament doesn't stick reliably to fake Buildtak surface | 2018-10-06T05:27:46.417 | # Question
Title: PETG filament doesn't stick reliably to fake Buildtak surface
I just got my first spool of PETG and tried to calibrate an Ultimaker Cura profile for it on my Ender 3 today with limited success.
I've had severe issues with the filament not sticking to the build surface, instead balling up around the edges of the nozzle tip. (*rather like this post*) Sometimes it sticks alright, but that happens properly \> 50 % of the time. I've never seen this behavior with my PLA materials.
So far, I've only been trying to print this calibration part.
**Relevant Profile Params:** (*let me know if I need to post more, I think these are the relevant ones*)
* Layer Height: 0.2 mm
* Temp
+ Nozzle: 240 °C
+ Bed: 60 °C
* Print Speed: 60 mm/s (*more specific params left to auto calculation*)
* Travel Speed: 300 mm/s (*max*)
* Cooling fan
+ Initial: 0 %
+ Fan Speed: 100 %
* Retraction
+ Distance: 5 mm
+ Speed: 50 mm/s
* Skirt min length: 250 mm
I was initially going by advice from Thomas Sanlanderer's video on PETG, starting with 230 °C/70 °C, but when that really didn't work, I then tried the advice of a Reddit user (*can't relocate thread*) that said to try a lower bed temp. I then experimented with different bed temps in the 50's to mixed avail. Most other threads are talking about PETG + glass, which seems to work well with a PVA glue stick surface finish.
I'm getting a glass build surface soon (*as soon as GearBest can ship it from across the pond*), and I hear that will help, but in the meantime, I want to find a way to make it work with the fake Buildtak. What can I do to try to make this work better? My thinking is that the issue is with the bed config (*temp, surface, etc.*) and not with the nozzle temp, but I could be wrong.
# Answer
I have printed kilometers of PETG and found the sweet-spot for my brand to be 240 °C for the hotend and 70 °C for the build plate (for my Ultimaker 3 that is, the extruder temp is 5 °C higher for my home build HyperCube Evolution). The reason for the 70 °C is that the glass temperature of PETG is around 70 °C. The PETG is flexible at that temperature such that there are no stresses because of shrinkage causing the PETG to keep attached to the heat bed surface (aluminium, glass, Buildtak, etc.). A little PVA based glue (stick) or spray (hair or specific print sprays) can even further improve the adhesion. A slow first layer also helps adhering better.
Note that the hotend temperature should be calibrated to the speed you are printing. If you print faster, a higher hotend tempearture is required. To determine the sweet spot for your filament you can print typical calibration towers that can be found on e.g. Thingiverse. Note that you need to manually change the G-code file after slicing of the tower or use plugins of your slicer to change the temperature at a certain level.
Furthermore, PETG does not like to be cooled by the print fan, so keep cooling fan rpm low to prevent layers not to bond (else you get a sort of string cheese print).
---
Edit:
I use parametric stair case style calibration prints that include the slicer print settings that are to determine the best settings for temperature, print cooling, layer size and print speed.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Thanks to the magic of r/3Dprinting, I have a solution. u/Lhelge helped me out with a tip:
> I would suggest a higher bed temperature. I print PETG at 80°-95° for the first layer depending on which printer. Then I go down a bit for the second layer.
I then started out by trying a 250 °C/80 °C temperature config and sure enough, it worked great. I managed to tune my profile down to 250 °C/70 °C and up from 50 mm/s to 70 mm/s.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, extrusion, creality-ender-3, petg
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thread-7124 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7124 | Massive over extrusion after changing firmware | 2018-10-06T11:39:31.243 | # Question
Title: Massive over extrusion after changing firmware
I have an Anet A8 printer (no modifications) and first printed a calibration cube. It came out okayish, within expectations. Afterwards I flashed the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 and since then have very high over extrusion. In this picture you see on the left the original calibration cube with the stock firmware and on the right a cube with Marlin (unfortunately not a good picture): In fact on the right cube you can see two narrow vertical lines in which extrusion appeared to have come out fine.
The cube on the left was without calibration. On the right hand side all axes, including the extruder, where correctly calibrated. The bed is level. The extruder has been calibrated in case of the cube on the right hand side (95.6 steps/mm). Material is PLA.
After flashing to Marlin the over-extrusion became such a problem that the nozzle is constantly dragging over the printed plastic. You might notice, that these are in fact different cubes, that is correct. I tried the same G-code from the left cube again, but aborted the print, because the nozzle was hitting the print too much.
I calculated a modified flow rate according to this tutorial and found that I would have to reduce my flow rate to 44%.
This appears quite wrong to me. What could be in the firmware change that causes such a massive over extrusion?
# Answer
Very wise to change the firmware of the stock Anet A8. The stock firmware does not have thermal runaway protection which Marlin Firmware does have.
You should be able to print equivalent or slightly better with Marlin Firmware as you can tweak it better/easier than the closed firmware clone of Repetier that is originally loaded onto the board. My A8 runs perfectly fine on 1.1.9.
To identify if this is over-extrusion, you need to check out the settings of the steps per millimeters that are defined in your configuration.h file:
```
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 400, 100 }
```
Furthermore, rather than calculating the flow reduction, you could calibrate your extruder.
From the images it it hard to say whether this is over extrusion or not, it does look like it is printed at a high temperature. Please update the question to include print material and print settings (hot end temperature).
> 4 votes
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Tags: marlin, anet-a8, extrusion
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thread-7016 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7016 | Monoprice Select Mini V2 retraction/stringing problem | 2018-09-27T23:54:55.047 | # Question
Title: Monoprice Select Mini V2 retraction/stringing problem
I have a Monoprice Select Mini V2 and I’ve recently been having issues with little strings that are thick and sturdy sticking off of models:
I used Ultimaker Cura v3.4.1 to slice this model: Basic Retraction test using Hatchbox Black PLA filament
And the following settings:
* Layer Height: 0.1313 mm
* Wall Thickness 1.05 mm
* Infill: 22%
* Extruder Temp: 200 °C
* Bed Temp: 55 °C
* Retraction Distance: 4 mm
* Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s
* Speed: 50 mm/s
* Z-Hop When Retracted: Off
* Supports: Off
* Adhesion: Brim
I’d appreciate any advice on how to fix this problem.
# Answer
What I ended up doing was using the settings from the cat.gcode that came with the printer. It has a retraction of 10 mm specified, which I thought was a bit much, but if it works, it works.
> 2 votes
# Answer
The Monoprice Select Mini V2 uses a Bowden style extrusion system. Bowden extruders compress the filament in the tube where the gap between the filament and inner tube diameter allow for the filament to buckle slightly and compress causing a pressure build-up in the hotend. Without retraction this implies that the filament will start to ooze out of the hotend once you stop extruding.
From your settings can be seen that you are using retraction. The question now arises whether you retract enough? Furthermore, this stringing can be reduced by setting the correct settings for e.g. print temperature, retraction, coasting, travel speed. It is up to you to find the correct settings; test print objects like calibration prints (like in the image you showed) help you with finding the correct settings.
Apparently, the retraction you use still allows for some filament to ooze out of the hotend as shown in your image. This means that prior to the travel move there is still some pressure left in the hotend. A parameter that reduced the pressure prior to the travel movement is called "coasting"; basically you define to stop extruding while the head is still completing the printing moves prior to the travel move. It is advised to explore this setting. Other options to investigate further include lowering filament print temperature or increase travel movement.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, retraction, monoprice-select-mini
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thread-6746 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6746 | Hotend temperature reading limited | 2018-08-27T09:17:53.603 | # Question
Title: Hotend temperature reading limited
After doing some repairs and upgrades on my Ultimaker Original, I found my temperature readings to be *weird*.
The reading is not incorrect, as long as the temperature is above 110°C. When the real temparature is below 110°C, the sensor will always read 110°C, with only subtle changes around 0.1°C.
This will cause the printer to abort heating, because it does not see a change in temparature for the first 30 seconds (when the temperature is below 110°C).
Here you can see a screenshot of Pronterface, showing how the temperature (blue line) starts increasing when my printer already aborted heating (violet line).
I am certain that the reading is incorrect because at the beginning the hotend actually feels cold to touch.
I am also certain that the reading above 110°C is more or less accurate.
* What could this be caused by? What parts should I replace?
* If I should replace the TC2, will a TC1 do too? I can't seem to find any store selling the TC2.
* If I should replace the sensor, what kind of sensor should I search for?
* Or is there a drop-in sensor-chip-combination that I can buy?
# Answer
> 2 votes
The fact that the temperature reading stays steady while heating and changes once it stops heating makes me thing that you might have a short between your heater wires and sensor wires or somehow have them interconnected. Especially if it shows the same temperature when it's actually below 110°C and heating but shows correct when not heating. I would try to separate the heater wires from the sensor wires and make sure they are not touching, also check that the sensor wires are not touching the heating block.
---
Tags: hotend, ultimaker-original
--- |
thread-5174 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5174 | Selecting G-code files from SD with serial | 2017-12-25T19:32:20.323 | # Question
Title: Selecting G-code files from SD with serial
I'm doing a project for college connecting an app made with app inventor to a Raspberry Pi and then using the RPi to make a printing queue for a Prusa P3 Steel.
The thing is that I already have the comm between the app and the RPi but I need to connect the RPi to the Arduino via USB and select the G-code files that are in the SD card of the Prusa to print. I don't know where should I put the function in the Marlin code or how to manage the serial port read function.
Any ideas?
# Answer
You can send the G Codes to select and print a file over the serial connection.
* List the files
> M20
* Select a file name
> M23 filename.gco
* Start/Resue the print
> M24
See https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code for more information M20 through M39 are the ones for interfacing with SD Card files.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: marlin, g-code, prusa-i3-rework
--- |
thread-7148 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7148 | Issues with connecting Pronterface to Anet A8 printer | 2018-10-09T14:48:35.313 | # Question
Title: Issues with connecting Pronterface to Anet A8 printer
I was recently told I should probably update my printer's firmware from the current version (ANET\_A8\_20160701V2.0) to Marlin (going to use v1.1.9). To do this, I dutifully downloaded both Pronterface and RepetierHost trying to connect with either one of them to my printer. I've checked the Device Mangler (Manager) and found the USB does connect and is recognized on COM5, yet neither software are connecting. The software sees COM5 as active as well, but I get back an error stating "access is denied" for some reason. **What might I be doing wrong?**
# Answer
> 4 votes
After some trial and error, I discovered you need to **set the baud rate to 115200** in the printer settings. I went through and tried each of the baud settings available until it connected. Glad I started with Pronterface, as RepetierHost has a lot longer baud list :o) Setting the baud rate is not inuitive as to the issue, as getting back "access denied" to me implied something else was going on. After that, was able to run direct commands to the printer through the USB port without issues.
---
Tags: anet-a8, pronterface
--- |
thread-7150 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7150 | Under extrusion, looking for specific information | 2018-10-09T16:50:52.423 | # Question
Title: Under extrusion, looking for specific information
Have a Monoprice maker select with a Micro Swiss hotend, and am using Cura IIIP.
**Edit**: plus Janbex PLA 1.75mm filament.
Trying to print a Pi camera mount, but am getting (I believe) under extrusion, as seen here.
My Cura settings are these.
Does anybody see any obvious problems? What should I try to change?
**Edit**: have played around with different temperatures, and some other settings (eg the filament diameter), but lost track of the reasons. Was following various instructions on web pages.
# Answer
Your filament is `1.75 mm`, but you specified `1.6 mm` in the `Filament` option `Diameter (mm)`.
Furthermore, your layer thickness is very small (`0.06 mm`), why not try `0.20 mm` first; a thicker layer will cause a higher extrusion flow. It could be that the print speed is too high for the low layer size.
Your initial layer `0.3 mm` is also high, the maximum for a `0.4 mm` nozzle.
---
<sub>Why did you change so many parameters? The standard values work pretty well.</sub>
> 3 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, extrusion, monoprice-maker-select
--- |
thread-7121 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7121 | Can't print on Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini | 2018-10-05T19:37:56.680 | # Question
Title: Can't print on Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini
After unboxing and setting up my brand-new **Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini**, I can't seem to print. When selecting a model to print, the extruder does not heat up and the whole printer does nothing, yet the progress bar moves from 0 to 100 in a few seconds time (VIDEO LINK).
Please note that
* the extruder does heat up when adding filament and does extrude a small amount when adding filament
* the servos all seem to work, as the extruder moves around just fine when leveling the bed using the wizard
I have done the following as per the manual:
* Removed the cable ties which held the bed for transport
* Attached the spool holder
* Connected power and switched it
* On leveled the bed using the wizard multiple times
* Added a spool of 1.75 PLA filament as instructed by the manual/firmware
* The included SD card wasn't recognized, copied the files to a new one, which was recognized.
This is the link to the file I'm trying to print.
I have flashed the firmware as described here but it didn't change anything
I can print using the Wanhao Cura software and a USB connection. For the time being, this is an acceptable workaround.
The nozzle size is 0.4 mm
# Answer
*Please note **this is not a full answer**, but it **does address a problem pointed out in the question**.*
---
The linked file does contain some strange information. Although in the comments it is said to use a layer thickness of 0.2 mm, see:
```
; layerHeight,0.2
```
with a first layer being 90% of this size:
```
; firstLayerHeightPercentage,90
```
it actually does not.
The actual sliced layers are measured in 0.5 mm and 0.222 mm and 0.45 mm for the first layer!?! The first layer is at:
```
G1 Z0.450 F1000
; process Process1
; layer 1, Z = 0.450
```
the next layer is 0.5 mm, so 0.95 for layer 2:
```
; layer 2, Z = 0.950
M106 S255
G1 X65.347 Y84.268 F4800
G1 Z0.950 F1000
```
And then it becomes strange,
```
; layer 3, Z = 1.172
```
for layer 3 (so a 0.222 mm layer height), and 0.222 mm for layer 4 and so forth.
This is a pretty odd sliced file, which basically is not possible to be printed with a 0.4 mm nozzle (you should never exceed a layer height of about 75% of the nozzle width, so max. 0.3 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle).
I don't know the firmware, but I find it hard to believe that the firmware knows what kind of nozzle is present (although Ultimaker does know that with their nozzle core concept they launched from the Ultimaker 3 series). It could be that your firmware does know the nozzle size and does not let you print these layer sizes. It is therefore recommended to reslice the print and other objects and take a closer look at the G-code files.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: wanhao, duplicator-i3-mini
--- |
thread-7159 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7159 | Compensating for smaller extruder gear | 2018-10-10T16:09:05.737 | # Question
Title: Compensating for smaller extruder gear
Assume somebody has a Monoprice Maker Select and has changed from the original brass extruder gear to a D4 Plus one, which is slightly smaller (10.6 vs 10.9 mm outer diameter).
This person might be wondering if he/she needs to compensate for this difference, and which setting that would be in Cura IIIP.
(Have never calibrated the extruder and am still not sure it is absolutely necessary, since the difference in the gear size is only 3%.)
# Answer
> 5 votes
If you change the extruder wheel for a different sized wheel, you need to calibrate the extruder to make sure that if you ask to extrude 100 mm it actually extrudes 100 mm. This answer on the question "How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?" describes how to do that.
It is not required to flash your firmware. The G-code command `M92` can be used to set the new amount of steps for the extruder. The Monoprice Maker Select has a Melzi control board that is running Repetier firmware. This G-code command is supported by Repetier firmware.
You need to be able to connect a so-called terminal to your printer. Applications as Repetier-Host, Pronterface, OctoPrint, and probably many more have so-called terminals where you can interface with the printer by sending command to it when the printer is connected through USB (please mind the communication speed of the board, called Baud rate, these are not the same for all boards).
Sending `M503` will report the current settings for `M92`, e.g.:
```
M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z400.00 E100.00
```
Extrude 100 mm without the hotend attached so you can measure the amount that is extruded. If that is 80 mm you need more steps $ \frac{100\ mm}{80\ mm} \times 100\ steps/mm = 125\ steps/mm $
You now need to send `M92 E125` and the new steps are set. Use `M500` to store the setting.
You could also change the flow extrusion parameter in your slicer, but it generally not good practice, it is better to fix the printer rather than adjusting in the slicer. However, if you do want to fix it in the slicer, as mentioned in the comments, you can also add steps setting in the start G-code script: *"To get around flashing the new values to the ROM, you can add this to the machine settings in Cura under "Start Gcode" this way it will append your values at the start of every print."*. Note that other slicers have similar functionality.
# Answer
> 4 votes
This will affect your extrusion rate. The best place to change this would be in your E steps located in the firmware but you can also compensate for this by changing the flow percentage in Cura, a setting of 103% (10.9/10.6) should get you close.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, extruder, wanhao, monoprice-maker-select
--- |
thread-7127 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7127 | What are the limiting factors when trying to print flexible filaments with a Bowden extruder setup? | 2018-10-07T04:59:55.353 | # Question
Title: What are the limiting factors when trying to print flexible filaments with a Bowden extruder setup?
Other than the most obvious issue with the filament kinking in the tube, what other issues could arise when trying to print flexibles (*i.e. TPU/TPE, Nylon, etc.*) with a Bowden style extruder setup?
Can the kinking issue be alleviated by a well-constrained filament path (*proper ID*) in a properly sized Bowden tube?
# Answer
> 5 votes
As a user of an UM3E, which uses Bowden tubes and has TPU as an available material, I can tell you that the kinking issues can be alleviated or downright avoided.
I've printed quite a few things with the Ultimaker-brand TPU 95, and never had problems with kinking in the tube.
Ultimaker uses 2.85 mm filament, with Bowden tubes adapted for those and a rear motor, i.e. the motor is on the back on the printer and not right on top of the print head.
I personally wouldn't consider Nylon as one of the really flexible material, but that's my opinion. Never had kinking in the Bowden tube with Nylon either in my UM3E.
# Answer
> 3 votes
To also validate the first answer, I have been printing with TPU95A for a number of years and it has been one of the most reliable materials to use. The strength of the product alongside the flex makes it a test and production based outcome with fewer issues. My printer for the most part of this experience was the Ultimaker 2+ that has a similar set up to the UM3 with a more traditional hot end.
Cautions: Some older material profiles have the heatbed at 60c. I have always had better outcomes from room temp (no heat on the bed).
---
Tags: bowden, nylon, flexible, tpu, tpe
--- |
thread-7164 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7164 | Cura 3.5 doesn't launch repeatably | 2018-10-11T04:59:09.977 | # Question
Title: Cura 3.5 doesn't launch repeatably
When I was notified by Cura that 3.5 was out, I looked at the changelog, and I installed the new version. It worked normally for a time, until once when I went to launch it and `cura.exe` forever sat idle in task manager doing nothing. I reinstalled Cura 3.5 and tried again.
That then worked for some time, maybe another couple days, and then the same thing happened again. Rince and repeat, maybe for a few more cycles. Now, Cura 3.5 doesn't like to do anything even fresh out of the box. Restarting the computer does nothing.
I've looked at the `cura.log` file in `AppData/Roaming/cura` and found a peculiar line:
`...
2018-10-10 21:49:33,591 - INFO - [MainThread] UM.VersionUpgradeManager._upgradeFile [369]: Upgraded .\fdmextruder+%232_user.inst.cfg to version 4000005.
2018-10-10 21:49:33,605 - DEBUG - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend._logSocketState [178]: Socket state changed to Listening
2018-10-10 21:49:33,650 - INFO - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend.startEngine [74]: Started engine process: C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 3.5\CuraEngine.exe
2018-10-10 21:49:33,652 - DEBUG - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend._backendLog [94]: [Backend] Calling engine with: ['C:\\Program Files\\Ultimaker Cura 3.5\\CuraEngine.exe', 'connect', '127.0.0.1:49674', '-j', 'C:\\Program Files\\Ultimaker Cura 3.5\\resources\\definitions\\fdmprinter.def.json', '']`
It looks as if the issue is when the Cura GUI tries to connect to its backend slicing engine. Is my analysis correct? Is this a known issue/is there a known fix?
I'm going to try to report this to Ultimaker if nothing comes up here.
# Answer
Issues like these are not new, I have experienced similar issues (see e.g. this topic, but more can be found) with an installation of an older version. At the moment of writing there is already a reported issue with Ultimaker Cura 3.5.
It is generally best to mention problems with a specific software application at the developers own forum or tech support. This will catch a more specific type of users as well as the developers themselves.
A workaround, but not a definite solution, is to remove the settings (on the Windows platform these files are located in `AppData/Roaming/cura`) that Ultimaker Cura uses and remove prior installations and do a fresh re-install of 3.5 and see if this works. Just rename the directory to e.g. `AppData/Roaming/cura_old`, this way you can always go back.
The drawback of this solution is that all material profiles and printer setups are lost as you start completely new. This is not a problem if you have a single printer and no custom materials defined, but in my case it was a lot of work to get all profiles back.
These issues could be related to the profile settings and storage model, which, at the time of the older installations was not very stable. A new material model was required, if that has been replaced is still a question.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-7162 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7162 | Apparently systematic nozzle clogging | 2018-10-10T22:05:24.947 | # Question
Title: Apparently systematic nozzle clogging
A Monoprice Maker Select V2, upgraded incrementally with a Micro Swiss all metal hot-end, machined lever, and D4 extruder gear, systematically fails to produce complete prints, as seen below:
The following observations can be made.
* The nozzle clog appears at different heights/elapsed times, so it does not seem to be because of heat creep, which ought to take the same time to take effect, each time.
* All the clogs so far have been easy to clear manually, once the hotend has been made accessible.
* The filament (1.75 mm PLA) is quite new, has only been sitting on the spool at the top of the printer, seems regular in density, is not visibly damaged etc.
* In the original configuration, before the upgrading, the printer worked fine for some months.
One possible explanation might be inconsistent temperature in the extruder, but the display does not show any great variation.
Any other theories? These latest prints were made at 210 °C.
---
The nozzle clogging was verified, each time, by trying to extrude using the printer controls; and then cleaned manually by taking off the "cold end" part, heating the extruder, and pressing the remaining filament out by hand.
Not so long ago the nozzle was cleaned with ethyl acetate and a needle, so I do not believe carbon build-up is the explanation.
Cura settings:
# Answer
> 6 votes
The Micro Swiss hotend uses an all metal hotend. These type of hotends are more difficult to operate considering they do not have a Teflon liner that shields the filament from heat exchange from the cold end (the Teflon/PTFE tube acts as an insulator). From this article:
> Jams and clogs are often from a combination of excessive heat and non-optimal material flow. This effect is worsened by poorly cooled **all-metal hot ends, high torque extruder gears**, small nozzles/layers, slow printing speeds, too thin first layer, and excessive retraction.
The bold faced text in the quote sums up what is causing this. A smaller gear requires more force/torque as the arm i.e. the radius is smaller.
The article describes what steps you could do to alleviate the problem. Of all the suggestions, *"**Minimize retraction**"*, seems a possible candidate for you to look into considering the posted print settings. As this is a heat related problem it is advised to also ***increase your printing speeds***, these are pretty low (30 mm/s for slow and 60 mm/s for normal printing) and also ***check the cooling of the "cold end"*** (the fan that cools the radiator fins). Also ***reduce the printing temperature***, 210 °C is pretty high for PLA filament, personally I don't go over 200 °C (note that this depends on your filament, but most PLA brands can be printed in the 185 - 195 °C range).
You have a pretty large retraction specified. The Ultimaker default is 6.5 mm is considered to be large, but works perfectly for Ultimaker machines (read Bowden tube setup). In my Ultimaker 3E which uses all metal hotends, or, in my custom HyperCube Evolution, also Bowden, but with a lined hotend, 6.5 mm retraction works perfectly.
Please look into this answer and this answer. Both describe that the retraction performance is worse with all metal hotends. My experiences are exactly the same with metal hotends, at least the cheaper production ones (I tested cheap all metal hotends, but also ran into problems because of production and design errors, I have not tried the better quality heat breaks/throats yet).
Please lower the retraction setting considerably to see if it has an effect. The Monoprice Maker Select uses a direct drive. Direct drive extruders do not need a large retraction length setting. If the filament is hot in the throat (as there is no PTFE lining that in fact acts as an insulator), too large of a retraction may not be reversed when the filament cooles during the retraction.
---
I think you might be experiencing what is described in this question: "*Extruder prints fine up until further down the print*". This answer describes issues of the metal heat breaks.
To comment on your statement in comments above, I am not suggesting you should use a liner in your current extruder. I'm pointing out the differences. Metal hotends are just more tricky to operate regarding retraction and heat management.
# Answer
> 5 votes
There are several reasons why the nozzles can clog.
**Temperature:**
If you set the temperature too low, the force to push the filament through the nozzle gets up. This can lead to filament grinding and this can lead to clogging. If you set the temperature too high while not extruding, the filament can degrade, which may lead to clogging. So always test the temperature and viscosity by manual pushing filament through the nozzle.
**Nozzle Size:**
Many users do not like to change the nozzle but for many filaments 0.4 mm is not advisable. Try 0.6 mm. The print quality is nearly the same @ similar layer sizes, print time goes down a bit and the likelyhood for clogging is close to zero. Reason is that the flow resistance is proportional to r^4.
**Grind dust/traction force -\> Retraction:**
I suggest a max of 2 mm to 2.5 mm for direct extruders. Higher values bring no benefit and lead to filament grinding. Bowden Extruders can use values \> 5 mm due to bending sometimes.
**Feeder Spring**
Sometimes the spring of the feeder loses tension over time, thus the filement is not pushed forward and instead, grinded down.
**Feeder Gear**
Another problem can be related with the pushing gear of the feeder (which you mount on the motor). I use gears with fewer theeth. They produce traction force and stay clean from grinding dust. Gears with many small teeth become dusty and produce less traction force.
---
Tags: extruder, monoprice-maker-select
--- |
thread-4646 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4646 | Managing LEDs with NanoDLP | 2017-09-22T12:22:40.770 | # Question
Title: Managing LEDs with NanoDLP
I'm building my own DLP printer with UV LEDs. I use a 20A relay to power them on, since they require high power and can't be directly driven by arduino or Raspberry.
I'm planning to use them with NanoDLP on Raspberry + GRBL on Arduino.
Is it possible to make NanoDLP tell GRBL to power on (send digital 1/+5V) the relay when the print starts and power it off (send digital 0/GND) when the print ends?
The other way would be to just install an on/off switch and do it manually, but I feel this step should be automated somehow.
Is there a way to do it?
# Answer
> 3 votes
I have no experience with either GRBL or DLP printers, but the
```
M7
M8
M9
```
coolant control codes should be able to be sent by NanoDLP to GRBL. Those seem to allow for direct digital output. Apparently you can set the pin you want them to use in the `cpu_map.h` file, with the standard being Analog Pins 3 and 4 for the M8 and M7 commands respectively.
```
// Define flood and mist coolant enable output pins.
#define COOLANT_FLOOD_DDR DDRC
#define COOLANT_FLOOD_PORT PORTC
#define COOLANT_FLOOD_BIT 3 // Uno Analog Pin 3
#define COOLANT_MIST_DDR DDRC
#define COOLANT_MIST_PORT PORTC
#define COOLANT_MIST_BIT 4 // Uno Analog Pin 4
```
Hope this helps! Source: https://github.com/gnea/grbl
# Answer
> -1 votes
Franco Cicero is completely correct there is an option to control your printer by using the GPIO of the Raspi. To do this you still need a stepper driver motor or some interface between the GPIO and the steppers/LED/etc.
More info here: http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3772
You should really control the LEDs using a mosfet, or even a solid state relay and not just keep them on all the time. The lights should ideally switch on and off for each layer.
# Answer
> -3 votes
I think you don't have to use the Arduino. There´s an option in NanoDLP to control the z-axis through the Raspberry GPIO.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, dlp
--- |
thread-6744 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6744 | Stepper motors are not working when connected with RAMPS 1.4 | 2018-08-27T05:08:44.890 | # Question
Title: Stepper motors are not working when connected with RAMPS 1.4
ISSUE: Stepper motors are not working when connected with RAMPS 1.4.
OBSERVATION: The LED lights(LED 2,3,4) in the RAMPS 1.4 is not powering up.
PRACTICES: I use Arduino Mega 2560 and installed Marlin firmware in it. And I bought a RAMPS 1.4 in a local electronic dealer. I placed the RAMPS over Arduino Mega 2560. For testing I just connected 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors with RAMPS. When USB port connection is given from laptop to Arduino board, a LED light is ON in Arduino board (L) and in RAMPS (LED 1). I use SMPS 12 V 20 A as a PSU for RAMPS. But in RAMPS the LED 2, 3, 4 are not switched ON. I checked the input voltage to the RAMPS using micrometer and it shows 11.75 V. But there is no output from the RAMPS.
Also I installed and tried Repetier firmware and Grbl but it doesn't work. And I use Windows 10 pro 64 bit OS.
When I flashed Arduino with Grbl, in this case all of the LEDs on the Arduino and RAMPS 1.4 are switched ON. I use Candle GRBL software to test the stepper motors.
And I replaced and tested with another RAMPS which is bought from Amazon but the problem remains unchanged.
Kindly give some suggestions at the earliest.
I have attached the images of my circuit connection:
Board selection in Marlin:
```
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
#endif
```
### Additional clarifications
In response to Professor's questions:
1. Yes the stepper drivers are connected correctly
2. Yes the stepper wiring is accurate (2B 2A 1A 1B) as per mentioned in the Ramps 1.4.
3. No there is no voltage input to stepper motor. But there is 12V input to Ramps 1.4.
4. Disabled cold extrusion
5. No, the firmware is not set to no move before homing (issue G28 first)
6. Yes, pins are set correctly for your board in Marlin
# Answer
> 2 votes
I actually thought the problem is in the electronic circuit but the problem is the baud rate. I initially took the baud rate as 115200 but later. after someone's suggestion, I changed it to 250000 and now it's fine.
# Answer
> 1 votes
to help you to solve this problem - please see my checklist
1. are the stepper drivers connected correctly (pin1 to pin1)?
2. stepper wiring is accurate (1a-1a..2b-2b)?
3. is there enough voltage provided to the steppers (regulate)?
4. if you are trying to move E0 or E1 then you need to disable cold extrusion as that stops rotation (waiting for 170C deg on the nozzle)
5. is the firmware set to no move before homing (issue G28 first)?
6. are pins set correctly for your board in Marlin?
the led's are set on my ramps as they are mostly giving a stutus for heater fan and bed, so grbl software could use those pins differently
---
Tags: marlin, diy-3d-printer, ramps-1.4, electronics, arduino-mega-2650
--- |
thread-7163 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7163 | Geeetech Prusa i3 Extruder seems to push more filament, gear slips/skips? | 2018-10-10T23:03:56.923 | # Question
Title: Geeetech Prusa i3 Extruder seems to push more filament, gear slips/skips?
I got my first printer, a Geeetech Prusa i3, and for the price I paid (160$) I am so blown away. As I saved so much money, I treated myself to a legit copy of Simplify3D, which I am happy with.
I'm using white PLA filament (supposedly 1.75 mm) with a 0.3 mm nozzle. The hotend temperature range is 215-240 °C and the bed is usually at 90 °C (with hairspray it gives a nice shiny solid bottom surface). My goal is to print with 0.3, or with 0.2 if 0.3 is to big for the nozzle (ideally a 0.3 nozzle can print 0.3 layer height).
**The problem:**
It seems that, especially on the first layer with bigger prints, or any layer that continuously pulls filament through the nozzle (outside lining of a layer), the amount of filament that gets "printed out" isn't enough compared to the amount of filament that is pushed in by the extruder gear. This, in my theory right now, causes the new filament to stay in place until the melted plastic in the nozzle is used, which then makes room again for more filament to be pushed through. Until this happens, the gear slips/clicks and can't pull anymore filament.
The mechanics seem to work well, and I don't think the nozzle is clogged. I would guess that some settings need to be manually adjusted to keep the amount of filament pushed through the nozzle equal or less than the amount the nozzle can actually push through, but what is weird to me is that this happens semi-randomly. I have searched online and the issue intermittently appears with other people, but I haven't found a solution yet.
*What settings would I need to test?*
Here is a link to some current successful prints and a layer mess up example(batman bust).
My biggest print so far (Batman Bust) is amazing, but even here you can see certain layers where the gear couldn't push filament through and the gear skipped a few clicks, causing it to print less when it was suppose to print on the following instructions. This happens a lot more, but when it happens during an infill you obviously can't see it from the outside. The individual layer-height seems maybe a bit too small (0.1 for batman), and the times where the extruder usually skips and clicks appear when I print bigger sizes (0.2 and 0.3). I want to start printing more complex and bigger things, so using 0.1 seems like an overkill in detail and takes way too long.
Edit:
My filament is the generic Geeetech white PLA that I ordered together with the printer.
# Answer
A nozzle with a nozzle **width** of 0.3 mm cannot print a 0.3 mm layer **height**. You *could* do that but you *should* not as you ultimately pay the price in the form of a less aesthetic finish. The general rule of thumb is to maximize the layer height at 75 % of the nozzle width, so a 0.3 mm nozzle would allow for a maximum of 0.225 mm. The rationale is that the filament leaves the nozzle as a tube and needs to be flattened to make it flat and adhere to the previous layer, too high layer heights increase the pressure in the nozzle (more filament is needed) causing a less than ideal extrusion and cause the extruder to skip; this is identified by observing a distinct clicking noise.
Please lower your layer height (try 0.2 mm) and decrease the printing speed to see if this works better.
Furthermore, for PLA, temperatures for the hotend (unless you have some sort of a special PLA filament) and the bed temperature are too high. Please aim to print PLA at about 200 °C with a bed temperature of 50 - 60 °C.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I fixed it!
The problem wasn't the temperature, it was the spring that puts the pressure on the little wheel against the gear. That was too strong, so the entry of the extruder was to tight. The gear worked fine and the settings worked well, I just had to adjust the spring a bit to carefully lower the pressure. I just printed another Golden Key and it looks perfect!
Thanks for all your tips on the other settings, I will experiment with tose to see if I can increase quality even more, but it seems to work perfectly now for a 160$ printer :)
> 3 votes
---
Tags: extruder, nozzle
--- |
thread-4499 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4499 | How do I convert point cloud data to DICOM? | 2017-08-15T23:06:11.503 | # Question
Title: How do I convert point cloud data to DICOM?
How can I convert 3D point cloud data to DICOM format (specifying slice width) or an equally scrollable sharp 2D image format? Which software (preferably opensource or free) can I use to do this?
I've searched on Google and can't find anything.
Chris
# Answer
This answer is actually based on combining answers from 2 other questions (this and that).
The process isn't a single step and would be to as follows:
1. The point cloud data needs to be converted to a 3d mesh.
2. Convert the mesh to STL.
3. Slice the STL into SVG.
For step one, the type of point cloud data would decide the software to use (for example, if it is GIS point cloud data, or 3D scanner point cloud data). A good end result of step 1 would be a VRML file. As you've not specified the type of point cloud data, I cannot suggest a software for it.
Step 2 would be to convert the mesh to STL which is easily doable using Meshlab.
For step 3, Slic3r itself will work just fine to generate the SVG output you're looking for.
> 2 votes
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Tags: slicing
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thread-7172 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7172 | Dual extruder clogging problem | 2018-10-12T11:44:48.550 | # Question
Title: Dual extruder clogging problem
I have attached a dual extruder (2 in 2 out) to my 3D printer. There is a repeating problem of clogging while printing.
I have fixed Chimera hotend.
A big fan, which covers area more than the double extruder, cools both cold ends. An additional fan directly on the front (as seen in the picture) cold end cools the ribs directly. The back does not have an additional fan.
I tried to print after attaching an extra fan; the first print went well but from there on, the hotend gets clogged every time I print.
The clogging happens in melt zone. I have tried cleaning the hot-end, but to no avail...
My settings are as below:
* Print speed = 60mm/sec
* Temperature = 210C
* Filament material = PLA
* Filament diameter = 1.75,
* Nozzle Diameter = 0.4
* Dual extrusion switch amount = 16.5mm
* Retraction speed = 40mm/sec,
* Retraction Distance = 4.5mm,
* Disabled Wipe and Prime tower and ooze shield
Please advise what to do.
# Answer
> 2 votes
It appears (***now confirmed in your question***) that you are using a Chimera 2-in-2-out hotend like depicted below:
Chimera hotends generally use ***all-metal*** heat breaks (***not confirmed yet***) which are harder to operate than "normal" PTFE lined hotends. A common problem that happens is that heat creeps up causing problems as a result of too slow printing or too high retraction length settings. Basically your problem is clogging related to all-metal heat break printing. This is recently asked in this question: "Apparently systematic nozzle clogging". Please read the answers to that question as they describe very well what happens and what to do.
Quoting from this article explains that it is a heating/cooling issue:
> Jams and clogs are often from a combination of excessive heat and non-optimal material flow. This effect is worsened by poorly cooled all-metal hot ends, high torque extruder gears, small nozzles/layers, slow printing speeds, too thin first layer, and excessive retraction.
Please do read this article and the solutions they mention to get yourself acquainted with the problem and its solutions.
In **your case** this could well be a **cooling issue** in combination with a **too high print temperature** and a possibly **too high retraction length** setting (depends on the length of the Bowden tube). The fan you mounted in the front (onto the cooling ribs, so the rightt fan in your image) is ***too large for this hotend***. You attached the fan to the left top mounting hole so that it exceeds the right and bottom area of your cooling ribs. Furthermore, this larger fan has a larger center (hub) to house the bigger engine so that you end up with a lower cooling flow for at least the right extruder as most of the cooling ribs area is blocked by the fan hub. Please fit a fan that fits this hotend. Printing a fan adaptors may not work as well, these fans have a very low static pressure difference, so a convergent duct may not work as well as you might think. Considering your temperature you are printing PLA; PLA could usually be printed well in the 185 - 195 °C temperature range (depending on the PLA), 210 °C seems a bit on the high side.
Another solution could be replacing the heat breaks for lined heat breaks:
---
As an aside, to explain a suggestion, in Himanshu's comment to coat your filament with some oils:
> Apply some oil on PLA filament with cotton.
Oil *does* lower friction in an all-metal hotend, but please beware that this needs to be ***vegetable oil***. The reasoning behind this is that the oil hardens inside the throat to create a smooth coating on the inside, not lube the inside of the throat. This thread has some interesting material on that.
However, general consensus is ***not*** to do that:
> Micro-Swiss use slippery platings and such, they don't need it. I've also used B3 Picos and E3D v5, v6, Volcano and Chimera and even that one garbage QUBD mk7 knockoff. Never needed oil.
or
> Seasoning hotends is a myth that refuses to die. Just don't do it, it does more harm than good.
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Tags: extruder, diy-3d-printer, hotend, reprap, dual-nozzle
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thread-7179 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7179 | TEVO Tarantula Z-Axis Lowering Too Far After Endstop Triggered | 2018-10-14T20:52:42.883 | # Question
Title: TEVO Tarantula Z-Axis Lowering Too Far After Endstop Triggered
A z-axis homing issue is giving me an ulcer. I'm hoping someone can help with this.
As per usual, after the Z endstop is triggered on my TEVO Tarantula the gantry raises a bit then slowly lowers back down to the z=0 point established by the trigger. However, the gantry is now lowering well past the point triggered by the endstop. It's forcing the hotend to press down into the bed, and I need to reset the printer to avoid any damage.
I'm at a loss to understand why, and it's making re-leveling the bed impossible. Once I have the bed leveled, an auto home grinds the hotend into the bed.
I've done some cable management in the past couple of days but everything is connected where it should be. The endstops are responding, I've even manually triggered them so I know they're working, but the Z refuses to stop where it should.
I've printed at least once since organizing my cables but the bed wasn't level and then I noticed this issue when homing the Z for re-leveling.
For context, I've had several projects print successfully recently so things *had* been working fairly well. I haven't made any changes to the Marlin software since originally setting it up months ago. I had been poking around in some settings on the unit but I'm quite sure I reverted everything I tweaked. Regardless, I can't seem to find the menu I had accessed before, and I don't think I've ever had the TEVO successfully save any customizations made via the LCD interface anyway.
# Answer
The soldering in the Tevo components is very low quality as I replaced/resoldered most of the end-stops.
As the gantry goes down - please ensure that the cable is not pulled over (no contact) and there is contact on the edge of the acrylic and the end-stop, also the small acrylic switch holder could bend/slip a bit. Finally, the sensor connection to the main board could be dragged by wires that are connected to the hot-end.
To validate micro-switch behavior - lift the Z-axis (about 100mm), then set `home position` and manually trigger the end-stop switch. That shall lift the Z-axis, so then trigger again to see if that works. You will still have a plenty of time to stop the printer if the switch does not work.
If that works, then the reason could be in slipping edge of the black acrylic plate and the micro-switch. Also validate the mechanical connection (if there is a loosening screw (the small on the switch plate)).
> 5 votes
# Answer
I'm not familiar with your particular model, so this may not be directly applicable.
For many printer models, a swing thru thingiverse.com will find you a replacement z-stop switch mount that uses a threaded screw to set the z-height at which the microswitch fires. It may well be that you simply need to offset that height by a few mm to get your first layer to mate well with the print bed.
Here are three examples, albeit for various models. 12488 , 1829747 ,
2856144
> 4 votes
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Tags: z-axis, endstop, tevo-tarantula
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thread-7095 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7095 | Creality CR-10 slightly jerks when moves from right to left | 2018-10-03T15:06:16.920 | # Question
Title: Creality CR-10 slightly jerks when moves from right to left
So when CR-10 prints square (like on the video starting from 6 second) while being in the top right corner extruder jerks i.e. slightly moves to the right and then continues movement to the left. So the resulting prints are not so nice: What can I do? I don't see issues in assembling but I almost definitely have them. What can be wrong?
**UPDATE**: Printer settings: nozzle temperature - 180, bed temperature - 65. I calibrated extuder according to the video. Bed level seems to be ok for me. I started using Difamix because of bed adhesion (sometimes even using IKEA mirror).
Here is my calibration cube size (I wrote only edges different from 20mm):
And here is the issues with calibration cube I found. Top layer: Bottom layer: Layer with Y is a bit rough (not a big issue as for me): Also edge between X layer and Y layer is not very sharp, a bit rounded.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It looks like the nozzle is not perfectly perpendicular to the bed. It is also dragging which might indicate overextrusion or bad z stop calibration..
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Tags: print-quality, calibration, creality-cr-10
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thread-7186 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7186 | Hemispherical Bowl : how is it possible? | 2018-10-16T05:24:58.090 | # Question
Title: Hemispherical Bowl : how is it possible?
I was reading up about how to extrusion print an overhang greater than 45 degrees, when something weird stuck me.
I see lots and lots of 3D extrusion printed bowls that have perfectly printed hemispherical surfaces. However, given that there is some deformation expected as part of the print process, how is it possible to get a perfect hemispherical bowl - where both inner and outer surfaces are perfectly hemispherical?
*Note: I am not talking about surface smoothness, but about the shape of the bowl itself. I understand that surface smoothing will make the bowl look great, but it will not fix a deformation in the shape of a print.*
# Answer
There are several factors playing together. For example orientation, printer & slicer settings and more.
# Reminder
First of all, not all overhangs of greater than 45° need support. Many printers manage up to 60°, even 70° is not unheard of - with the right settings. Pretty much all printers manage tiny 90° overhangs.
# U-Bowls (open side up)
Let's look at bowls that shape like a U - the dome is at the bottom. With a flat contact surface only the next areas need support, and with PVA or other easily removable support structures on the rise, it is no problem to use support and leave no trace. With support, there is no sagging, so the bowl gets its "perfect" look even though there are overhangs and support used.
# n-bowls (open side down)
The other way around - dome on top - is probably the more "smooth" one, using different tricks to get it set.
The outer wall now sits on the infill like the inner we had before, perfect, but we used that for the inner wall before. But what about the inner one?! Well, we need no support for the sides till we reach, let's say 55° angle. Can we go further without support? Yes... if we are tricksy!
* Print the walls from the center to the outer wall, as then the inner walls stand on the lower layer and can hold the new, neighboring, *floating* wall
* Have more than 2 walls! Why? Well, simple math: You go up by $z$, and out by $(n-1)\times d$ where $n$ is the number of walls. We have a maximum overhang angle of $\tan^{-1}(z^{-2}\times((n-0.5)\times d)^2)$ before our walls don't stand on the wall below by more than a half wall. As one can see, $z$ and $d$ are fixed in that calculation while a higher factor $n$ directly increases the value of the angle. As long as there is support for the wall (like the neighboring, already printed wall), you get some kind of dome.
* Print thinner layers. If you decrease $z$, you also increase the maximum angle that has one wall standing on half a supporting wall.
* Print slow. Printing slower allows the material to cool and harden while still somewhat held up by the cohesion to the filament that comes from the nozzle. This can support a higher overhang angle.
* Cooling. Together with slow printing, you might want to use an extra strong cooling solution to speed up the solidification. Aim well.
* Print narrow<sup>1</sup> domes. Why is it much easier to print more narrow domes than wider domes? Part of the answer is how much geometry does not need to be supported by itself, another part is the weight of the full structure: A narrow dome spans a smaller distance. This means it has less area of a high angle to the last layer, and the overhangs, in general, are shorter. This can result in better printing.
---
<sub><sup>1</sup> What counts as narrow is printer and filament dependent. It is no problem to print small spherical hollows in a print if they are just small enough as the overhang then is just short enough so it can carry itself. At some point it gets too much though.</sub>
> 8 votes
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Tags: print-quality, 3d-design, slicing, extrusion
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thread-7188 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7188 | Extruder drive cog slipping on filament | 2018-10-16T06:26:43.323 | # Question
Title: Extruder drive cog slipping on filament
I've been printing PLA on a Pegasus 12" for 2 years. Print quality has been great but in the last few months the quality of the prints has deteriorated. After looking into it, it seems when the head moves away from the spool and puts the filament in tension (and pulls on the spool) the extruder cog slips on the filament. That results in traces where no plastic gets extruded the furthest away the head moves from the spool (the spool is on the left in the picture below):
The cog slipping can be seen between 0:22 and 0:27 on the video below: the cog on the right spins continuously but the ball bearing on the left stops spinning for 5 seconds. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cTfySUgXDy1XKXGv8
The end result is a part with multiple gaps, especially on the side farthest away from the spool.
I've cleaned the teeth of the cog (removed plastic dust) to improve traction but that didn't solve the problem. I've also tried to clean up the extruder by inserting a wire from the hot end side, no improvement in print quality.
Any ideas on how to fix that slipping problem?
# **Edit with solution:**
To complement Oscar's answer below, here is what I've done that fixed the problem: it turns out the issue was coming from a lack of friction on the filament. To increase the friction, I've slipped a pair of 0.25mm thick pieces of plastic sheet between the bearing axis and the mount. See pic below.
That increased the force on the filament enough to fully solve the slippage problem. The print quality is perfect now (see pic below).
The plastic sheet trick is just a short term fix. I'm going to try swapping the drive gear for a slightly thicker one and contact MakerFarm to see if there is any long term modification they recommend.
# Answer
These symptoms are generally caused by friction in the extrusion path.
First, you should make sure the spool of filament can unspool freely.
Second, in order to prevent slipping of the filament, you should consider increasing the force of the roller bearing onto the filament and extruder wheel, or increase hotend temperature. A (partial) clog can also be causing this. You could try a "cold pull" or "atomic pull" where you heat up the filament to print level, push a little through by hand and let the nozzle cool to about 60 % of the printing temp and then steadily pull the filament out of the hotend, this should remove all gunk inside, repeat if necessary. A too low of a layer height can also put the filament extrusion under pressure.
---
*As an aside, slipping of filament is often accompanied by an audible clicking noise. There are a few questions on this topic.*
*It also looks as though your bed is not centered in the middle as you are printing outside the bed limits in the front and have a little room left at the back!*
> 3 votes
# Answer
In addition to the answers from 0scar, you might check your hot end temp. I was having a similar problem with slippage and prints that would literally fall apart in my hand even if they looked ok.
It turned out that the filament I was using which claimed to be PLA actually wanted a much hotter temperature than most PLA. Once I bumped it up to around 216-218 °C the slippage stopped and the prints came out beautiful. Might be a possibility if this is a new filament for you.
> 3 votes
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Tags: print-quality, extruder, reprap
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thread-7191 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7191 | 3d print aluminum valve cover for car | 2018-10-16T14:07:10.670 | # Question
Title: 3d print aluminum valve cover for car
I am interested in 3d printing from aluminum valve cover for car SAAB valve cover
I am thinking of creating 3d scan and the placing order with i.materialize or similar online services.
I am curios if this is feasible at all, since I am interested in 3d printing functional part not just a souvenir. Also since 3d part does not have smooth surface, will sand blasting help without affecting dimensions?
Also what would be an approximate cost of 3d scanning and printing?
I really do not know where to start and would appreciate any directions.
# Answer
> 4 votes
This is a very large part. My estimate for the cost would be a few thousand to get this printed in metal, if not tens of thousands (assuming it even fits the maximum build volume of the printer, which is only 440mm on its longest axis).
3D scanning also isn't a very reliable way to reproduce parts, especially for something mechanical that needs to be precise. You can not just scan something and then print it like making a photocopy. A lot of manual design and reverse engineering work would be involved.
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Tags: 3d-design
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thread-4834 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4834 | G04 dwell period control parameters | 2017-10-29T17:12:28.837 | # Question
Title: G04 dwell period control parameters
I have a 3D printer that I built and I'm having trouble with some g code. I have to stop and start the extrude motor when the z axis moves up to the next layer. When I do this the 3D pen I am using goes back a little bit to prevent dripping. When the motor starts again the filament is not at the tip yet and I am trying to add a dwell time before it starts moving again to give the filament time to come out. When I enter `G04 P100` after each M3 command (the code I have to use to start my motor) it dwells way longer than 100ms and P10 seems to take around 10 seconds. On Wikipedia it states the control parameters for ms is P and the one for seconds is X however the reprap wiki states the proper control parameter for seconds is S. So my question is what is the correct parameter and how precise can I be with seconds i.e. .0000 how many zeros can I have after the decimal. I am trying to calibrate and get accurate prints so any help would be greatly appreciated. I am using grbl version .8 with and arduino uno. The software I am using is Grbl Controller 3.6.1
# Answer
Basically you are fighting against oozing. So a retraction, or as you call it:
> the 3D pen I am using goes back a little bit to prevent dripping
needs to be undone. You can do this by extruding an amount to get the filament back at the tip. Command `G1 Exx.xx` where xx.xx is a number where the retraction is is added on top of the existing value. Furthermore, most slicing software have parameters available to influence the extrusion/retraction. E.g. "coasting" is an option to prematurely stop extruding and make use of the pressure buildup in the nozzle (this prevents blobs where perimeter end meets the perimeter begin), "extra length on restart" (replenish the nozzle chamber with extra filament) or "Retract on layer change". In principle all these actions are set and handled by the slicer you use for making a print file. There is no need for a "dwell time", in fact dwell is just a pauze. It seems a bit strange that you want to control the filament flow yourself, while all this is done for you by the slicer software.
> 1 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, g-code
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thread-7196 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7196 | On my TEVO Tarantula, is there a way to test that its heater pins are working? | 2018-10-17T14:49:17.847 | # Question
Title: On my TEVO Tarantula, is there a way to test that its heater pins are working?
I can no longer print anything because I get a E1 heating failed error on my TEVO Tarantula every time I try to heat the hotend. The bed heats just fine.
I've removed the heating element and thermistor from the hotend. The latter works fine, the temperature rises when I pinch it with my fingers. The element doesn't appear to have any broken connections.
I recently did some cable management and disconnected the element's wires from the board. After reattaching them, I was able to print a couple of things so the error has occurred since then. (They didn't turn out, btw, so maybe this was the beginning of a fault?)
The wires going to the board's E1 pins are secure. I've swapped them back and forth and reconnected them numerous times but no luck.
I know the most likely problem is a faulty element but before I buy a replacement is there a way to test the heating pins themselves? Some way to test the element separate from the printer?
Also, is there a way to have the element heat using the E0 pins? I've found tutorials on how to define the heater pins in Marlin but their code references don't appear in my configuration.h file.
# Answer
I haven't tried it, but would assume you could put a multimeter (set to VDC) onto the two connections for the heater pins and check the voltage output during what would be the heating period. If there's voltage output, your heating element would be at fault.
> 2 votes
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Tags: hotend, tevo-tarantula
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thread-6546 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6546 | When did mass produced FDM printers become available? | 2018-08-04T10:56:57.320 | # Question
Title: When did mass produced FDM printers become available?
I know very little about the history of 3D printing, except that SLA came first (in the 1980's?), and FDM development was probably held back by patents.
By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists, in the \<€300 price range, as price-reduced clones of designs which had already seen several iterations.
Was this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines (as opposed to the \>€2000 semi-professional lab budget prototyping class), or were the earlier iterations of these kit machines also suitable/adopted by hobbyists?
I realise that early popularity would grow exponentially, but I'm thinking particularly at what point people could build a printer without needing to compile their own firmware, solder any boards, etc.
# Answer
> By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists \[..\]
>
> Was this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines
No, not by any means. The RepRap project started in 2005, and by 2008-2010 there were several open-source printer designs out there that were somewhat workable for hobbyists. These designs were still quite expensive, you needed to source all the components yourself and do a very significant amount of troubleshooting.
However, as early as mid-2009 you could buy a Makerbot Cupcake CNC for \\$750 as a kit (which might have involved some soldering) or \\$2500 fully assembled (presumably without soldering, but it's conceivable it was plug-and-play). Makerbot went on to become quite a successful company, piggybacking off the RepRap project and could be viewed as the "break-out" you ask about.
I purchased my first printer kit (no soldering or firmware involved) for \\$500 (plus around \\$150 in shipping and taxes) in February 2014; cheap hobbyist machines were commonplace well before that.
> 7 votes
# Answer
The Makerbot Replicator was released in 2012 and was the first 3D consumer-level printer that was sold only as a complete unit, not a kit. They were also well funded and had a famous Maker-Person as a founder. This seemed to coincide with wide-scale coverage of 3D printing in the media, and a big boom in the DIY side of the movement which is continuing to this day.
The unit was still expensive by many standards (US$2500), but it did solve the bootstrap problem... you could just buy one at a store, instead of having to have a specific knowledge set in order to build one.
> 1 votes
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Tags: history
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thread-7205 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7205 | First move after Start gcode, to start position (but before printing) is way too fast | 2018-10-18T17:12:28.497 | # Question
Title: First move after Start gcode, to start position (but before printing) is way too fast
I have a delta printer. The problem is that after the start gcode is executed and the extruder head is 15 (Pic: x0) mm above the center of the plate, the first move towards the start (x1) of the actual print is performed at (maximum possible?) speed @ infinite acceleration. After that the print is performed with regular acceleration. This can cause missing steps.
The problem seems to arise after the start gcode section. How can I fix it. I use Cura 3.5.
Start gcode
```
G28 ;Home
G1 F1000
G1 Z15.0
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
By way of comparison, here's what Cura writes as the header of a gcode file. You may want to adjust some of the default parameters in your Cura settings. (this header was same for both the default Prusa and the default Deltabot printer settings)
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:67934
;Filament used: 22.2173m
;Layer height: 0.06
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.5.0
M140 S60
M105
M190 S60
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
G92 E0
G1 F1500 E-6.5
```
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Tags: marlin, ultimaker-cura, start
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thread-7202 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7202 | What is wrong with my first layers? | 2018-10-18T02:42:17.437 | # Question
Title: What is wrong with my first layers?
I just assembled a Prusa i3 MK3 and went through the calibration process, but when I print the first layer doesn't look good and my prints come unstuck from the bed. I think it might be Z height but this was as high as I could put the probe without the paper moving on the calibration test. The layers after the first few look good but then the print either warps or comes unstuck and moves.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Judging by the images you posted in your question, the first layer distance is too far away from the bed for the current filament flow.
This could either be related to:
* having an offset on the first layer like a height correction in the slicer,
* an incorrectly levelled (read height adjusted) bed, (you did the paper test correctly, so this is probably not your problem, it is mentioned for completeness)
* under-extrusion
+ slicer setting not correct, e.g. filament diameter or flow modifier not 100 %
+ incorrectly calibrated extruder
Your most likely problem is under-extrusion. It would be advised to calibrate the extruder: How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer? and check the slicer settings.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I used the live-z adjustment feature and set it to +0.150 and now my prints look much better.
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Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, calibration
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thread-7201 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7201 | Inconsistent filament flow on anet a8 | 2018-10-18T00:05:00.807 | # Question
Title: Inconsistent filament flow on anet a8
My Anet A8 was working and printing great until my hotbed connector snapped and shorted out my motherboard. After replacing the connections to my hotbed and my motherboard I can't print anything because the filament flow is very inconsistent. It often laying down nothing. See my included picture.
I've tried a bunch of suggested calibration settings but none of them worked:
* increased extruder temp,
* decreased speed,
* increased flow,
Any ideas or thoughts would be great.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Thanks everyone for the tips. I posted this question on another board and it was suggested my extruder was clogged. After unclogging everything works great again.
# Answer
> 1 votes
*Please note that the problems you faced are typical for the Anet A8, the connectors are underrated for the application. Also, do note that the stock firmware does not have thermal runaway protection, which is considered to be very unsafe and could potentially lead to burning down your house! Please flash a firmware that supports thermal runaway protection, like e.g. Marlin Firmware.*
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Basically you just tried to change some parameters to see if they have an effect. This is generally a good idea to get an idea of the problem, but a more technical approach would be to start from the beginning and exclude things you have tested. As for now you cannot conclude why the print looks as shown in the image, e.g. it also looks as if the nozzle to bed distance is too large.
The question remains if your 3D printer board did survive the shorting of the hotbed leads!
To troubleshoot this particular problem it is advised to check whether the extrusion process still does what it is asked to do. Disconnecting the hotend from the extruder and measuring how much filament is extruded would be the first thing to check. Please look into How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?. It seems odd that the extrusion is off if the firmware has not changed, or alternative settings stored, but to be sure it would be the first thing to check. From this exercise you'll learn whether the firmware is set correctly and the extruder working properly. It can still be that the extruder gear slips, e.g. because the filament does not have a lot of friction when disconnected from the hotend.
When the extrusion process works and the commanded length is extruded, you can update the question with what you have done. After this, and if the problem persists, you can look into nozzle clogging and filament resistance for instance.
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Tags: extruder, pla, anet-a8
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thread-7207 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7207 | Hold torque during pause to change filament | 2018-10-18T20:50:47.107 | # Question
Title: Hold torque during pause to change filament
How can I achieve keeping the motors active during pause to avoid moving their position during filament changes? I have changed the filament during some prints to change the color or to change the a newer spool, but sometimes the X axis is moved during the change. I'm now using some cloth clips to prevent moving during this change.
To pause the 3D printer I'm using the LCD menu -\>pause, then I go to Move axis X, then I move close to 0. This change is manually and random since I don't know when the old filament reel is going to finish. The printer use Marlin as firmware with Ramps 1.4
# Answer
Is `ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE` enabled in your printers `configuration_adv.h` file? There is a `PAUSE_PARK_NO_STEPPER_TIMEOUT` option included in there, which prevents the steppers from timing out during a pause, and may be more robust than a G-Code command if you plan to manually pause and resume the print instead of setting it up in the slicer.
Alternatively, in the same file,
```
#define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 120
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_X true
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Y true
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z true // set to false if the nozzle will fall down on your printed part when print has finished.
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_E true
```
can be found. You may want to increase the `DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME`, or set
```
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_X true
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Y true
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z true // set to false if the nozzle will fall down on your printed part when print has finished.
```
to `false` to keep X, Y and Z engaged while allowing movement of the extruder stepper only.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I have not tried this, but you could use the `M84 S0` command, this prevents the motors to go into an idle state.
From the `M84` G-code wiki (firmware specific!):
> On ***Marlin***, Repetier and RepRapFirmware, M84 can also be used to configure or disable the idle timeout. For example, `M84 S10` will idle the stepper motors after 10 seconds of inactivity. `M84 S0` will disable idle timeout; steppers will remain powered up regardless of activity.
What rests is to implement this command into your G-code file to be executed during pause. Depending on the pause method you could introduce this command. I have not tried this, but you could put the command in your start G-code and test if the motors keep powered!
Furthermore, *a specific filament change command is available for specific firmware applications*. This code, `M600`, can be used to change filament. From the Marlin documentation you can read (since you are using Marlin Firmware, you could use this G-code command):
> The `M600` command initiates the filament change procedure. The basic procedure will move the print head away from the print, eject the filament, wait for new filament to be inserted and the user to confirm, load and prime the filament, and continue with the print. `M600` may be initiated automatically if a filament runout sensor is installed.
Please do note that in Marlin Firmware the `M600` command is only available when the comments before `//#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE` in the advanced configuration options file Configuration\_adv.h are removed, hereby activating the command.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: change-filament
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thread-7025 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7025 | slic3r: Can I vary the infill percentage for different heights of my model? | 2018-09-29T23:42:49.567 | # Question
Title: slic3r: Can I vary the infill percentage for different heights of my model?
How can I vary the infill percentage for different layer heights of my model?
Context: The bottom part of my model needs about 20% infill. The geometry of the top part of the model (mostly cones of various sizes) prints well with 0% infill and is of course a lot faster to print if I can specify this.
# Answer
> -1 votes
Let's assume the model is 75mm high; the bottom portion (which needs 20% infill) is 40mm, and the top portion (which needs 0% infill) is 35mm.
* Load your model into Slic3r.
* Be sure your default fill is 20%.
* Right click on the model, and select Settings.
* Click "Load Generic".
* Select Slab. This represents a cube which is the same X,Y dimensions of your model.
* Specify H=35 (the height of the slab) and Initial Z=40 (where the base of slab starts).
* This creates a new part for your object. Select it and click "+" to add a new setting.
* Select Infill/Fill Density and set it to 0%.
As a result of this, the bottom part of your model (which is not enclosed in the slab) will print at the default fill setting of 20%, and the top part of your model (which is enclosed in the slab) will print with 0% fill.
You can verify this by slicing and looking at the preview. You will see the base with your default infill, and the top with no infill. The slic3r docs mentions several other ways to customize parameters for your model.
# Answer
> 3 votes
*Your question is very similar to Different infill in the same part and Using multiple infill types within one model \[duplicate\]. The difference is that you specifically ask for Slic3r and a variation in layer height infill percentage.*
---
Actually this answer describes using "helper volumes" in Ultimaker Cura to set different properties for certain parts of the model *(**UPDATE**: that answer now includes also Slic3r instructions)*, but it appears that this answer is very much applicable to Slic3r also. Please read this posting. Quoting from the reference:
> Finally, I fired Slic3r up and loaded the main part, then clicked on Settings... and then hit Load modifier... I loaded the new volume as a modifier mesh and I applied 100% solid infill...
Secondly, this answer where 2 different infill percentage sliced models are manually combined at a certain height may also work for you (this is a perfect valid solution for Slic3r, but requires some editing skills).
Basically, although you request for a solution for a slicer other than already described in other questions, boils down to a similar answer, the only difference is the implementation in Slic3r is called differently.
---
To do this in **Slic3r** see this reference.
The blog describes the use of a simple volume (the green volume loaded from an STL file). After loading:
> Right-clicking on the main part brought up the object settings menu. From there, clicking "Load Modifier" and selecting the previously saved model adds it to the part as a modifier.
>
> The green "+" was selected and "Fill Density" was added to modifier list and set to 100%.
This shows that the functionality in Slic3r is very similar to the functionality in Ultimaker Cura.
---
Tags: slicing, slic3r, infill
--- |
thread-7219 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7219 | Ultimaker Cura not always telling extruder to retract when traveling | 2018-10-21T18:39:42.187 | # Question
Title: Ultimaker Cura not always telling extruder to retract when traveling
I'm having a problem with Ultimaker Cura (v3.4.0) where it doesn't always tell the extruder to retract when performing a travel, which causes the hotend to leave a "trail" as it's moving and not start printing again right away when the travel is over.
For example, the extruder does not retract when performing this travel (blue):
And yes, I do have "retract before outer wall" enabled....
Any ideas how to solve this?
# Answer
You probably have the "Combing Mode" option under the "Travel" options enabled for each layer (`All`). Combing reduces print time by leaving out the retraction, but leads to ugly first and top layers by leaving *"scars"* on the surface. It can be disabled by excluding the bottom and top layer by changing the setting to `Not in Skin` or for all layers by choosing `Off`. The latter will increase printing time drastically!
---
Please note that as of version 3.5 of Ultimaker Cura the options of the combing setting have an additional setting. As of Ultimaker Cure 3.5.0 the options are named:
* `Off`
* `All`
* `Not in Skin` (used to be `No Skin` a few versions ago)
* `Within Infill` (new setting)
> 4 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, retraction
--- |
thread-5857 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5857 | Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup | 2018-04-21T18:01:35.723 | # Question
Title: Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup
How does Z offset (`M851`) work with an auto leveling sensor? Does it add the Z offset to the offset of the `G29` mesh? or the `G29` value replaces the `M851`?
My printer is an Anet A8 with Marlin firmware, I was having issues with the autoleveling sensor and reset the Z offset to 0 and let `G29` get the mesh offsets and its working good now.
I was looking through Marlin G-code page but couldn't figure out how `G29` affects `M851` or vice-versa.
My setup with level issues:
```
M851 Z0
G28
M211 S0 ;turned endstops off and got a paper to find the zoffset
M851 Z-0.59
M500
M211 S1
```
And `G29` before printing.
# Answer
> 12 votes
`G28` instructs the printer to home itself to the X an Y endstops and the Z sensor determines the homing of the Z axis; i.e. when the sensor triggers, this is not necessarily (and most commonly) not the position where the nozzle is at Z=0.
`G29` determines the shape of the bed by probing the bed. This will set the shape of the bed with respect to the sensor trigger point as described earlier. The Z-offset (set by `M851 Z-x.xx` is needed to set the offset between the nozzle and the sensor trigger point (to the bed).
The sequence to determine the offset is:
```
M851 Z0; // Set the Z offset to zero height
G28; // Home Z in the middle of the bed
G1 Z0; // This will move the head to zero height;
M211 S0; // This will disable the end stops so that you
// will be able to proceed lower than Z=0
```
Now adjust Z height to fit a piece of paper and note the negative Z height (either through the LCD or through an application or console/terminal over USB)
*Please remember, that a sensor doesn't level your bed, is compensates for the shape, the user should always tram (level) the bed as good as possible with respect to the nozzle print head movement plane! This implies that the user should tram the complete bed as good as the skills allow, all corners, like you would do with a normal Z endstop switch.*
```
M851 Z-1.23; // Define the Z offset
M500; // Store the settings
M211 S1; // Enable the end stops again
```
Please note that -1.23 is a fictive value that should be replaced by your own value.
To explicitly answer the raised question, the `G29` probes the bed by scanning the surface geometry and the `M851` adds an offset for the sensor trigger to the nozzle (at the center). The offset is required to let the firmware know where the nozzle is with respect to the trigger point. The offset therefor lowers the scanned `G29` surface, no replacement is taking place. The sketches below illustrate this:
*note that the bottom line of the "M851 Z offset" denotes the `G29` scanned surface*
# Answer
> 0 votes
You must use the sequence
```
G28
G29
```
If you do `G28` after `G29` it will reset bed leveling. I guess you don't want that.
On my printer deployed z-probe falls 2.3 mm lower than nozzle. In printer settings I've therefore stored static Z-offset of -2.3 mm, so after `G28` and `G29` I can be sure that when ever I tell Z-axis to lower to zero, it can go down -12.3 mm, coming to stop at around 0.1 mm above the bed surface (so just a single sheet of paper fits between the nozzle and the bed).
That said, I'm not worrying about sending the Z-offset via print commands, as restart restores the aforementioned -2.3 mm offset.
---
Tags: bed-leveling
--- |
thread-4672 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4672 | Designing back plate for Ring Doorbell | 2017-09-29T16:57:09.640 | # Question
Title: Designing back plate for Ring Doorbell
What is a good tool to use to design a back plate for a Ring Doorbell? The shape will essentially be a wedge shape, tilting the doorbell to the side and down a bit. I'll need to iterate over a few prints, so want to be able to tweak it as I go.
I've found TinkerCAD doesn't let me adjust shape sizes, stretching one axis but not the other.
# Answer
If you wannwa go fully parametric, use OpenSCAD. Or you can use Autodesk Fusion 360 (which is free for non-commercial use)
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design
--- |
thread-7221 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7221 | How to correctly print an object with supports | 2018-10-22T00:34:40.537 | # Question
Title: How to correctly print an object with supports
I'm trying to print the following model in my Prusa printer using its Slic3r PE software.
Ferment Air Lock
In the comments of the model it says that the way to print is the with the filler opener downside to the printing board.
This is how I have it in Slic3r:
When I print it I get this horrible form and I have to stop in order to avoid waste of material.
When I look in the layers tab and then scroll up to see layer workflow I can see this:
So that means is trying to print like in the "air" something without any support.
Any clue how to print this? I'm kind of new to 3d printing.
# Answer
> 4 votes
You need to put a check mark to enable supports in Slic3r as you cannot print in mid-air.
This option is found under "Print settings" with header name "Support settings". Please look at the Slic3r manual for more options.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, slic3r, support-structures
--- |
thread-7214 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7214 | Is a 3-D printer made from 3 CD Drives practically somewhat decent, being DIY and less expensive? | 2018-10-19T22:46:51.807 | # Question
Title: Is a 3-D printer made from 3 CD Drives practically somewhat decent, being DIY and less expensive?
I want some indication to all the workings of 3D-Printers and the basics of design. All links regarding DIY 3D-printer are welcomed.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I would guess that a printer made in the following way would be both poor quality, and annoyingly frustrating, as well as requiring constant tinkering/re-adjustment. Also, if the chassis of the CD/DVD drive is incorporated into the design (as below) then the print volume is rather small, given the inherent limited movement of a CD/DVD mechanism.
If the steppers are used *without* the CD/DVD chassis then it *might* be possible to increase the print volume but then you would need to spend extra on the rods and support structure for the X gantry, the Y-axis print bed, and the Z-axis movement. If you do that, then the steppers from the CD/DVD drive probably would not have sufficient torque to move the additional weight - by incorporating the CD/DVD chassis the inertia of the movement has been kept to an acceptable minimum.
By using the CD/DVD drive's stepper motors you are only really saving the cost of buying three or four actual, more powerful and useful, stepper motors (as well as the cost of the additional rods and support).
That said, it could be quite amusing to make, and show off, and also provide some satisfaction if you do manage to print a tiny frog, parts for another printer, or whatever, with it. However, I wouldn't expect it to print anything to any great accuracy/tolerance/precision/etc., but it would maybe give you something unusual to talk about at dinner parties.
---
### An example
There is this (IMHO unjustifiably<sup>1</sup>) popular (i.e. well linked-to) Instructables guide: EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter, which describes making a 3D printer from old desktop computer parts<sup>2</sup>.
> $ 3DPrinter"\>
According to E-waste printer looks nice, prints really, really small, it has an awesome print volume of 37 mm x 37 mm x 18 mm.
Apparently, all you need is to salvage:
Then purchase these standard 3D printing components:
* RAMPS & Arduino Mega or RepRap Gen6/7 - Capable of running Marlin/Sprinter frimware
* Nema 17 stepper motor for the extruder - Either this, or better still something from RepRap Wiki - Nema 17, i.e. *Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803*, *Rattm 17HS8401*, or *Wantai 42BYGHW609*.
* MK7/MK8-type direct drive gear for extruder
* PTFE tubing
* Hotend (throat, heaterblock, nozzle)
* Heater
* Thermistor
* Cables, female connectors, heat-shrink tube.
To make the frame, you need a 325 mm x 362 mm, 5 mm thick acrylic sheet, and use this template (missing files):
>
or this one (cnc-calisma-yalniz.dwg):
>
You will also need to 3D print these parts (the links to which have died):
1. Extruder idle
2. Extruder body
3. Hot end holder
Once you've gathered all of the parts required, you can then try to work through the incomplete assembly steps of the Instructables guide.
---
### Other links
---
### Footnotes
<sup>1</sup> Most, if not all, of the links for the printer above are dead (this variant, mentioned above in **Other links**, is much more complete). However, with a bit of knowledge, and common sense, it should be possible to work through those omissions:
* Marlin software - easy enough to find on Github
* The frame laser cut - the original file is missing but an alternative is still available
* The 3D printed parts for the extruder - as the links have died, you'll either need to find reasonable facsimiles on Thingiverse, which shouldn't be too hard to find, or buy them from cheap Chinese suppliers:
+ Extruder idle
+ Extruder body
+ Hot end holder
<sup>2</sup> Funnily enough, whilst searching around looking for information to fill in the gaps in the above answer, I found this question on 3DP.SE: Missing print steps in e-waste 3d printer
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, e-waste
--- |
thread-7226 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7226 | Makerbot Smart extruder+ heat block and nozzle question | 2018-10-22T08:25:03.953 | # Question
Title: Makerbot Smart extruder+ heat block and nozzle question
I am looking for information on the smart extruder+ heat block and nozzle? I have looked online and from several forums come to the conclusion it is either a MK10 or MK11 assembly. Can anyone shed some details on the heat block and nozzles.
# Answer
<sub>Caveat emptor: This answer is probably not what you're expecting.</sub>
As far as I can make out after looking at this un-jamming video on YouTube, where at time 00:01:24, the video shows a label that needs to be cut to open up the extruder. However, as mentioned at the end of the same video, cutting that label will void Makerbot's warranty cover on the extruder.
From that, I can make out that Makerbot will actively discourage any efforts to disseminate the kind of information you're looking for, at least until the product is discontinued. That would usually include a DMCA takedown notice to Google to remove search engine results, as well as similar takedown notices to other places where such information is hosted. I expect you will not find such information easily.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: extruder, nozzle, makerbot
--- |
thread-7224 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7224 | Knotted String as Replacement for Toothed Belt | 2018-10-22T05:37:12.763 | # Question
Title: Knotted String as Replacement for Toothed Belt
I'm at a location where I don't have easy access to toothed belts for my printer (a RepRap Wallace). While trying to look for some solution, I saw some talk of using fishing line as a belt, along with a log of admonitions of `Don't`.
However, as I have easy access to fishing line, but almost no access to a toothed belt, I was thinking of using multiple strands of fishing line with regularly spaced knots to simulate a toothed belt. However, Google didn't help much with either usage or possible Gotchas.
Is there any possible issues that I may face with this solution?
# Answer
> 5 votes
I’m going to recommend not using a fishing line with knots. Probably the biggest problem you’ll have using the fishing line with knots is if the knots are not perfectly spaced, movement along the X or Y axis is not going to be consistent. This could result in weird deformations in your print.
Depending on how you tie the knots they may not grip the teeth of the gears quite well enough to prevent slippage.
Both of these issues will mean that you will not get very good quality prints assuming the print doesn’t outright fail.
You would be better off waiting to get the correct belt then attempting to use fishing line.
# Answer
> 2 votes
If you are using fishing line, it would perhaps work to wrap the line around the pully and fastening it to the pully (both ends), so that the line wraps around the pully. One side would play out from the pully while the other was wrapping around it.
By attaching the ends of the line to the pully, there will be no slippage between the line and the pully. The knots aren't needed, and their irregularity won't affect the print quality. The problem will be if and when the fishing line wraps tightly over itself and jams. This can be mitigated a bit by having the two ends on opposite sides of the pully, and perhaps adding guide wires to direct the line to the proper side.
Usually, mechanisms like this involve good control of the wrapping and unwrapping, but this might work well enough to print a new pully.
Thin aircraft cable might be a good alternative to fishing line.
---
Tags: belt
--- |
thread-7154 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7154 | What is the best way to print a coin with depth map? | 2018-10-10T04:48:24.960 | # Question
Title: What is the best way to print a coin with depth map?
If I have an image like the one attached, what’s the best way to create an accurate depth map of it? I have photoshop CC and 3ds Max, but I don’t know what settings work best with Slic3r. There is a plethora of settings and combinations to choose from in either programs.
Did anyone do this before? If so, can you share your technique?
# Answer
From a single image from this perspective (front view) you cannot map the coin surface in detail. There is reported limited success in estimating the depth of single images, but, this is for images with a clear perspective (e.g. like a picture of a room showing the walls and floor at an angle). In order to map the surface you will need to have multiple images and preferably know the direction of lighting on that object.
People with one eye cannot estimate depth very well, you need two eyes and a trained brain to understand the differences in depth.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I designed a coin to use as a tokens for a RPG. I decided to make it from scratch instead of making a height map. I tried two different approaches.
**Smooth height changes**
I found a 3D model of the head I wanted to use on my coin. Then I cut it in two, and placed on of the pieces flat side on top of the coin. I then flattened the head to make it more appropriate for a coin. When I sliced it whit the layer height supported by my printer I noticed that I lost too much of the details in the head.
**Layered height changes**
I found a picture of the head I wanted to use and drew outline of the different parts of the head that I wanted to include. I then added each drawing with a different thickness to the coin. This gave me a clear drawing on the coin, and is what I ended up printing.
**Printing**
I printed the coins standing up. 2 of my 42 coins failed because the coin fell over during print. I printed 4 and 4 coins at the time, on placed in each corner of the print surface. I finished one entire coin before starting the next.
> 1 votes
# Answer
If you have a depth map (a raster file with the height at each point), OpenSCAD has the ability to read the height map and create a 3D object. That 3D object can then be exported as an .STL file, and sliced normally.
I have done this (maybe 3 years ago), and it worked well.
This site includes a list of available tools. I probably used one of these, as I could easily convert my particular depth map to a PNG or other image file.
Once the file is in STL format, you can choose how best to print it for your printer.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, slic3r
--- |
thread-7281 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7281 | PTFE pulled into extruder gears | 2018-10-24T08:07:14.670 | # Question
Title: PTFE pulled into extruder gears
I have a Tevo Tarantula, the problem is that PTFE is getting pulled back to the extruder gears and stopping filament extrusion, do you know how to solve this?
Image:
One hypothesis I have is that there is a cooling problem in the hot end while a retraction is made, causing the extruder motor to pull the PTFE in it.
Suggestions appreciated!
# Answer
> 9 votes
You are probably right, I have a Tarantula as well, and this happened many times to me. The reason is mostly because **the hotend fan gets too hot**, stops working, then, the filament in the aluminium heat sink **melts and sticks the filament** inside the PTFE tube. Then, on the retraction, the PTFE is **pulled into the gears** just like on your picture. Also, the filament **stops getting extruded** a few moments later.
One solution for that was to buy a new PTFE tube with a pneumatic connector that doesn't allow it to slide into the gears. However, the diameter of the screw thread (of the one that I bought) was too large, so I had to design a new static block for the extruder to fit it.
I chose this type of 1mm PTFE teflon tubing from aliexpress for my replacement.
Maybe you can find a pneumatic connector with the proper diameter.
However the real solution is to check **why the heat sink is getting too hot**. I bought a few other fans and printed an additional support for them on the hotend and I am making sure the fan **stays on** all the time.
I hope it helps!
---
Tags: extruder, tevo-tarantula, bowden
--- |
thread-7288 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7288 | Print "hairs" without support in GrabCAD Print | 2018-10-24T17:03:39.637 | # Question
Title: Print "hairs" without support in GrabCAD Print
I have a part with hair strands, such as the Hairy Lion on Thingiverse, and I want to print it on a Stratasys F370. The thin strands are intended to print without support, bridging to the exterior wall. Although the bridges are quite long, it doesn't matter if they sag, because they will be heat-treated afterwards.
But when I open the STL file in GrabCAD Print, the slicer gets over-protective of those long bridges, and inserts soluble support for every one. As well as being a huge waste of support material, it would take ages to dissolve out all of that support, and it's completely unnecessary. However, there are other parts of the model that overhang and do need support, so I can't just disable support completely.
How can I avoid supporting these bridges?
# Answer
There's no way to do this in GrabCAD Print alone, but you can achieve it using Insight, which you can reach from the **Apps** menu in Print. The steps are as follows:
1. Open your STL file in Insight.
2. Go to **Modelers****Setup…** and set the printer, layer height, and material to the same as in Print. If you get these wrong, you won't find out until you get to the end and Print refuses to print the part.
3. Use one of the red icons to slice your print, with or without the wall thickness filter.
4. Use the red and green icon to generate support. You'll notice all of your hairs are now supported.
5. Go to **View****Display options…**. Set **View only** to **Group curves**, and then **Group to view** to **All support**. This filters out the (red) model curves, showing only the (green) support curves.
6. Go to **Edit****Delete…**. Then left-click and drag a box around the unnecessary supports. For my part, dragging the 3D view to be top-down made it easy to drag a box around just the hair supports while leaving the other supports untouched, but it'll depend on the shape of your part.
7. In the right panel, make sure the delete mode is set to **Curves**, and click **OK**. Now all your supports should be gone. At this stage you can set the display options back how they were if you want to inspect your model further.
8. Use the green circle icon to create toolpaths
9. **File****Save As…****Toolpath** to save as a .cmb or .cmb.gz file.
10. Go back to GrabCAD Print. (You can close Insight now if you want.)
11. **File****Import CMB** and choose the file you just saved.
CMB files show up very boxy on the tray view (and Print will display a warning about that), but if you go into slice preview mode, you should see it as it was in Insight, with just the right supports.
There's one caveat with this method. The slicer generates the base as a single contour, so deleting the supports under the hairs doesn't remove that section of base, and AFAIK you can't make the slicer recompute just the base (so generating support again would put the original supports back). You could edit the base contour before step 8, or disable the base completely in the support options before step 4, but the amount of support material saved probably isn't worth the effort.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: support-structures, grabcad-print
--- |
thread-7229 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7229 | What causes ripples on part of first layer? | 2018-10-22T14:56:41.200 | # Question
Title: What causes ripples on part of first layer?
I'm having issues with ripples on the first layer of big flat prints. The initial corner of a big flat print is fine, but then ripples begin to form as shown in the screenshot.
I'm just a newbie, so I was thinking they might have something to do with heat or contraction or something. Normally, I use the default and print with no turbofan on the first layer. When I tried adding fan 20% or 50%, nothing much changed (slight differences in the ripple pattern and area, but that pattern varies anyway).
I also wonder if one strip gets bent, then maybe the rest just follow the bends. As far as I know, my heating plate is working fine, has no serious hot spots, and I'm using a high-quality PLA+ filament. I also tried adjusting the print temperature from 205-220 (the range on the box is 205-230). Nothing seemed to help. I am running a default first layer thickness of 0.3 mm because that is supposed to help adhesion (and adhesion is fine).
The ripples look worse than they feel. They feel fairly flat, only slightly rippled, even though they look terrible! (And I don't know what that weird row with blobs is in the top left of the picture. That only happened once; almost like junk was in the nozzle or the feed gears slipped or something).
I'm running a Qidi Xpro machine, Sunlu PLA+ (wonderful) filaments, bed 50 C, print temp 205-215, print speed 30-40 mm/s on the first layer, and first layer thickness 0.3 mm (normal layer thickness is 0.2 mm). This machine has a direct drive with gears immediately above the nozzle.
Does anyone know why this rippling effect occurs, and what I might to do to correct it? Thanks
UPDATE: I'm adding this info here to respond to several comments concerning bed leveling, etc. (Thank you to those who made comments!)
1) I'm sure that the bed is as level as I can make it because I always go through the cycle twice).
2) Regarding clearance, if anything I worry that my clearance is too small since there is a fair amount of drag on my leveling card under the nozzle. So, there is definitely drag on all three level points, about midrange between the lightest drag and the heaviest drag that makes me think I'm filing off part of the nozzle.
3) I do have two nozzles, so I suppose the problem could show up on one but not the other if the nozzles were screwed into the block to give different heights. But the ripple shows up on both nozzles, always in the middle of the build plate, always in the middle of a big flat print. Corners don't usually show ripple effects. I don't want to believe that my build plate dips in the middle on my new machine, either ... :-) Adhesion is fine on small prints in the middle of the plate.
Here is a picture of the bottom of the piece. A careful examination shows an oscillation in the squished filament segments on a filament thread. Almost like the extruder was oscillating vertically in the z-axis at that frequency, or perhaps the filament squishyness was oscillating at that frequency. Looks almost like a weave pattern, since the squished parts alternate position on alternating lines.
It's worth saying again that the piece feels pretty smooth on both the top and bottom sides, even though it looks awful. I don't know what to make of that.
# Answer
> 6 votes
The main problem is solved (first layer thickness vs leveled nozzle height).
The following image shows the problem. I was running with a default 0.3 mm first layer (the tooltip setting says a slightly thicker layer helps with adhesion). The build plate was correctly leveled with "midrange" friction on the leveling card at the leveling points.
Problem cause: The midrange leveling height put the nozzle too close to the plate and caused rippling. The first layer thickness was set to 0.3 mm and the thickness of the leveling card was 0.25 mm.
The following image illustrates the problem (and one of the solutions). The bottom right of the image shows rippling. Not knowing what else to do with the "too close" or "too far" or "unlevel" tips in the comments, I just manually lowered the build plate knobs 1/4 turn while the print was in progress. The print began in the lower right. You can see the smooth area where I manually lowered the build plate. Then, to be sure, I raised the plate by restoring the 1/4 turn on the knobs. The rippling returned.
To further explore the 0-90 degree suggestion provided by profesor79, I changed the slicer degree settings to 0-90 degrees and set the first layer thickness to 0.2 mm, which was equivalent to lowering the build plate knobs by 1/4 turn. I kept the same "midrange" friction settings when leveling. The result was a first-layer print with no rippling.
### Closing Thoughts
From this experience, I think:
1. 0.05 mm difference between a thickness of 0.3 mm on the first layer and a leveling-card nozzle height of 0.25 mm makes a rippling difference.
2. Using mid-range friction vs light friction on the leveling card also makes a difference. You don't need much of a height difference to reach 0.05 mm. Maybe even less is required to cause a ripple.
3. When printing with a first layer thickness of 0.2 mm, tolerances were tight and I discovered a spot on my build plate that had no adhesion because of a buildup of old adhesive. It left a 1/2-inch hole in the 0.2 mm-thick first layer. I also noticed just a hint of ripple in another place on the build plate, which (I think) indicates a tiny magnetic build plate thickness or warp issue of some kind. Hardly noticeable.
4. I think I will go forward with a 0.3 mm layer thickness to "absorb" minor flatness inconsistencies in my plate. (I have a glass plate but I have never used it because the magnetic plate is vastly more convenient.) But, to compensate for rippling effects, I will also use a "very light" friction amount when leveling the plate to ensure that the nozzle doesn't get too close to the plate on the first layer.
5. I found that manually adjusting the build plate height during a solid first layer print was a wonderful way to detect, see, and explore all the relationships between plate leveling, plate flatness, first layer thickness, and friction adjustments on the nozzle. It's very easy to immediately see, understand, and adjust all the related settings to get the best print possible from the machine.
---
Thank you again to everyone who contributed ideas to understanding the problem. It's hard to pick any particular answer because the solution involved multiple ideas, so I have added my own answer to share.
# Answer
> 9 votes
First layer rippling is usually caused by a too low of a first layer height (for the amount of extruded filament).
Are you sure that:
1. Your bed is leveled as good as possible, and
2. the initial height between the nozzle and the bed is correct when Z=0 (A4 paper thickness, when moved should be giving some drag), and
3. the bed is flat. *(This is most probably your actual problem!)*
To minimize the effects, you could try to:
* increase the first layer height, or
* set an additional Z offset in the slicer, or
* reduce the filament flow for the first layer, or
* install an automatic bed leveling sensor, or
* perform a manual bed levelling mesh procedure (if you have Marlin Firmware).
This usually helps fighting these ripples.
# Answer
> 1 votes
1. The first that I have in mind was connected with an acceleration, so you could play with it (set to half the current value and see the results)
2. The other source of that could be drive belt that is fiddling a little bit on the motor and idler shaft (visual check for any play on the motor/shaft)
3. Next one could be connected with some obstructions in the filament path (as this is direct drive, the Bowden tube could add an extra load if it was bent or spool is blocked)
4. As this is coreXY type printer could you set in slicer filing angles to 0deg and 90deg? That will force booth motors to run in the same time and eliminate a not holding torque on the other motor (or from other hand please check if the other motor gets some play when the head is going diagonally)
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Tags: print-quality, pla, smoothing
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thread-7305 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7305 | Safe way of disposing resin | 2018-10-26T03:17:41.230 | # Question
Title: Safe way of disposing resin
I have some leftover resin (100 ml) that I\`m not planing to use anymore. What is a safe way of disposing it that doesn't involve curing?
# Answer
Resin is notoriously hard to handle, especially as exposure to air and light can and will cure it over time. The uncured resin is a hazardous material.
# Handling hazardous waste
The rules for safe disposal can - generally speaking - be broken down to this:
* make sure the hazardous material can't contaminate water or food sources
* make sure the hazardous material won't be touched or ingested accidentally
This means (for example for acids) that they are neutralized (to pH 7) and then handled as chemical waste.
## WHY?
Why go all these lengths? Let me explain with an example from Germany: The city of Leverkusen is the main site of Bayer. They produce pharmaceutical and chemical products there, which includes a lot of chemical and hazardous waste. Bayer knows how to handle waste, they handled 541000 metric tons globally in 2015. Most of the following information comes from Germany, and is in German, but I do provide my sources.
For the remains of pharmaceutical product production at Bayer in Leverkusen around 2007, the process, as I was told on a tour to the fabrication plant, was generally speaking this: The nasty stuff got neutralized and reacted in ways to make it inert, the resulting sludge got dried and incinerated to destroy most toxic compounds. The remains were bagged in thick plastic bags that were carefully stored with a catalogue of what was stored where in a dedicated chemical waste landfill with (iirc) 3 independent groundwater protection systems, covered with a thick plastic sheet, then with a several meters thick cover of carefully constructed layers of dirt, clay, cement, more plastic, gravel, and rock to protect the rhine and the ground-water. Today, this process is done by the Currenta in a similar way.
In the past, the landfills were less secure: the old landfill that was started by Bayer in 1923 in Leverkusen. It was used by Bayer, the local population and (for some time) the IG Farben. It was finally closed in 1965, contains 65000000 tons of waste, of which approximately 15% is residues of chemical processing (~1 million tons). Nobody ever cataloged what had been stored where in these times, one just knew that it was filled south to north. It had to be pretty much re-engineered in the 1990s and brought it to match the (then) current landfill standard, for example with a 38m deep cement wall: Checks had found that nobody knew anymore where what materials were stored and that residues - among them possibly LOST - had found their way to the surface. These chemicals threatened to get into the Rhine and the water supply at some point. It also lead to a case of public domain and following demolition (for public health concerns) of a group of houses that had been erected on one part of the closed landfill.
You see the length people go to keep you safe from chemical waste: LONG.
Now, how do we fix the problem at hand both safely and effectively?
# Getting rid of small batches of resin
The basic rules of handling hazardous waste (the two bulletin points) tell us we should take a two-step process:
1. find a temporary storage solution (e.g. storing in a safe container)
2. decide on a process that can get rid of the stuff in a safe way.
How could one fulfill the target number 2? I came up with three options:
* re-cycle the unused resin from the print-tub back into the resin for later prints of the same color/resin.
* find a specialist to take care of the uncured waste ( =\> give it to the waste disposal center in a clearly marked container)
* make the material non-hazardous and allow disposal through the home-waste ( =\> curing)
Your local waste disposal service might charge a fee for taking care of your resin, but your problems end when you hand it over with old paints or other chemical waste. Check out who provides these services and what laws, rules and regulations apply for small batches of resin and paints.
A different kind of specialist that would take the resin could be a maker or artist that plans to use it in their own SLA/DLP printer.
Making it inert could be done by curing with only sunlight, without the need of much special equipment or chemicals in a very well ventilated area and make sure nobody touches it: pour the resin into a (disposable) mold like a cardboard box or yogurt cup. If you can't have a well-ventilated place, storing the resin in sealed transparent plastic or glass container (plastic bottle or marmalade glasses) in sunlight can cure the resin very slowly over time. Note that it will take quite some extra time, as such containers do filter out some of the 400 nm light that commonly cures the resin. The resulting resin chunk can be handled like any plastic block once thoroughly hardened through: Use it for other projects, as a paperweight or dispose of it through the normal waste.
# tl:dr;
* Until you have chosen a method to get rid of your resin, keep hold of it in a sealed container.
* You might find a local maker or artist that would like your resin.
* The best way to get rid of resin wastes without curing it yourself is handing it to a professional waste disposal service. Check your local laws, code and regulations about it.
* Curing it allows disposal through the normal garbage cycle.
> 5 votes
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Tags: sla, resin, disposal
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thread-7308 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7308 | CTC Formaker Air Printing | 2018-10-26T09:41:12.907 | # Question
Title: CTC Formaker Air Printing
I have a CTC Formaker 4 in 1 3D Printer. It has worked great for a long while but now it is messing up. It will print fine for awhile and then the filament will stop coming out but the printer keeps moving like it thinks it is still printing. If I clear the print job and start over, it again prints fine at first but then I get the same end results. Please help me fix this problem. I have not been able to find a solution on Google. Also I am using the latest version of MatterControl.
# Answer
This sounds like a clogged nozzle. Try driving the filament into the hot end manually to verify that the plastic is flowing correctly. If there is a clog or other impediment in the nozzle, the filament will become curly as it is exiting the nozzle. A clear nozzle will always result in the filament extruding as one straight piece.
> 1 votes
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Tags: troubleshooting, mattercontrol
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thread-7268 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7268 | Monoprice maker select v2 doesn't extrude but is not clogged | 2018-10-24T00:51:54.300 | # Question
Title: Monoprice maker select v2 doesn't extrude but is not clogged
So I have been printing lately, and got a new spool of filament. It will extrude when I pre-heat the nozzle and manually extrude it, however when I start to print, it doesn't extrude any filament. Sometimes it works with different filament, but not always. How can I fix this?
# Answer
> 0 votes
* Try advancing the extruder manually using the control interface. Extrude about 10 cm of filament to verify that everything is OK with the machine.
* Is the filament curling on the way out of the nozzle? If so then there may really be a clog and you should clean it. Invest in some cleaning filament as well.
* The idler bearing may not be pushing down on the filament tightly enough. Check that the spring which holds it in place has not become soft or broken.
* The drive gear could be dirty. Plastic particle build up on the gear will cause it to slip. Clean the drive gear to remove all plastic build up.
Outside of this you could have a mechanical problem with extruder. Advance the motor using the control system (without filament installed) to verify that it is working properly.
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Tags: monoprice-maker-select
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thread-7312 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7312 | Z Axis inconsistency - Geeetech I3 | 2018-10-26T19:09:32.363 | # Question
Title: Z Axis inconsistency - Geeetech I3
I'm 3D printing almost 2 years, and I expected to have better result after changing to complete smooth rods with new bearings.
I have a problem with my Z axis giving me inconsistent prints; I already replaced the leadscrews, E3D clone with Bowden tube, I decided to replace all smooth rods on all axis and also the bearings. After I replaced all this, my prints are still bad, also I'm very dissapointed with the results after the replacements. I have checked all I could think of; PID tuning, belts, ....) but I'm running out of ideas.
Printing settings:
* print speed is 40mm/s,
* retraction is 3mm at 30mm/s,
* extruder 205°C for the first layer, then 200°C
# Answer
Yesterday I tried some improvements, first I replaced the Y belt pulley, and aligned the frame which I thought to be non-perpendicular and removed the spool holder (which was the culprit of my problem) Attached photo shows a print after these improvements. I have insulation on my hotend.
I think this is the quality I could expect from this cheap printer. Maybe I could reprint X axis gantry, but I'm a little tired of doing something on my printer.
Update on my prints
I see some elephant foot, but i will fix this by lift nozzle a bit, but is there some more improvements (temp, retraction, z-hop, coasting, ....) ?
> 1 votes
# Answer
From the pictures can be seen that you have good lead screws as there is no cyclic anomaly/wobble present at the side. It appears as though the lines at the sides of the print are more or less random X/Y positional inaccurate.
These lines can be caused by various reasons. From what is read you tried to improve the mechanical system by upgrading the hardware. It could still be the case that there is still some backlash or play left in the system (e.g. I had once had too much tolerance on the holes of the linear shafts in the printed X-Z mounts causing similar problems). Vibration should be looked into also, e.g. do you have a binding bearing or a large mass on the printer that interacts with the carriage movement like a spool holder on top of your frame. Or maybe the micro-stepping does not work optimally, so check the stepper driver currents.
If it is no mechanical issue, it could be that you are facing inconsistent extrusion caused by variation in filament thickness or gear slipping or too much tension on the filament by friction in unspooling. Or else a hotend temperature variation. Maybe insulation on the hotend helps.
> 3 votes
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Tags: z-axis, geeetech
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thread-7317 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7317 | Screeching Noise when moving the Z-Axis Down | 2018-10-27T16:37:48.750 | # Question
Title: Screeching Noise when moving the Z-Axis Down
I have had my Prusa i3 clone for about two years and it has always made a screeching sound when the z-axis is moving down. I have tried many solutions for this problem like greasing the z-rods, printing a new top part (the holder at the top z-rods end) with a bearing to prevent the threaded rod from swaying, and even hot glueing bearing to the stock top piece. However, none of this has worked. I am not sure if it is affecting the print quality but the sound is very annoying when it is doing a lot of hops and I would like to fix it. Here is a video (with sound) of the rod moving up and down.
Video
# Answer
I had this same problem. I attributed it to the linear bearings which ride on the 8mm travel rods. I did two things which ultimately eliminated the issue (since I did both at the same time, I'm not sure which solved the issue, but believe it's #1 below):
1. I replaced all of my ball type (stock) linear bearings with Igus Drylin linear bearings. I'm pretty sure the metal ball bearings were screeching along the 8mm metal rods. The Drylin bearings pretty much eliminated any noise on the rods. I replaced all of them for X, Y, & Z axis rods at the same time.
2. I used white lithium grease (just a small amount) on the Z-axis screw rod. This helped everything travel better. It should also help it last longer by preventing wear.
Since I've done this, I've not had any screeching anymore. You don't have to use Drylin linear bearings, as there are other printable options on Thingiverse.com.
> 5 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, troubleshooting, z-axis
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thread-7319 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7319 | Extruder motor does not stop after G1 E5 | 2018-10-27T19:15:13.870 | # Question
Title: Extruder motor does not stop after G1 E5
When I send `G1 E5`, the extruder motor rotates, but does not stop. It keeps rotating until I restart the system. I am using a Ramps 1.4 board and OctoPrint.
# Answer
If the printer is in absolute positioning mode (which is used almost exclusively), then the extruder will either wind back or wind forward to the last 5mm point. Effectively, the firmware treats the extruder like any other axis, and you can set the origin whenever and wherever you like (it doesn't have to be the home position). Use G92 to reset the extruder position as follows:
```
G92 E0 ; Set the extruder position to 0 (origin)
G1 E5 ; Extrude 5mm of filament
G92 E0 ; Set the extruder position to 0 again
```
This is the usual way to purge filament in the slicer's start and end code. Note that you cannot rely on the current position being zero.
> 3 votes
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Tags: extruder, marlin, motor
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thread-7325 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7325 | Prusa i3 pro b second layer failure | 2018-10-29T09:56:29.457 | # Question
Title: Prusa i3 pro b second layer failure
I just bought a 3D printer =\> Geeetech Prusa i3 b.
I build it myself and I'm trying to print the famous boat, the Benchy one.
Here's my settings (I've tried Repetier host and Slic3r or Ultimaker Cura):
And that's the results..
Any tips about the settings? The problem seems to be when I print every other layer but the first one which seems reasonable enough.
I used Slic3r with the settings taken from this video, eBay Prusa i3 slic3r settings (comment response video)
Now the first layer is almost perfect but I still have problems with every other layers, too much filament comes out and it's all messy, a bit like the picture I posted above.
A video of the print can be found here.
The steps per mm value for the Z shaft is 2560.
# Answer
You need to level the bed properly by setting the correct distance between the nozzle and the bed. Ideally, you need to be able to drag a piece of plain A4 paper between the nozzle and the bed when the nozzle is at `Z = 0` giving you a little drag (you feel that by a stuttering movement). From your pictures you can clearly see that the nozzle is way too far from the bed when depositing the first layer (as seen from the video you posted in the comments) as the hot filament drops/falls down to the hot plate. Once it is too far from the plate, each consecutive layer is too far from the previous layer.
From the images you posted, it is clearly visible that you have a mechanical/calibration issue. Your belts are probably not tight enough too, but it is difficult to say at the moment as the products are way off from what they should look like.
Note that the printer configuration could be incorrect (although very unlikely as it is out of the box). E.g. the stepper motor needs to make a certain amount of steps to advance the carriage in Z direction. If the mechanical layout requires 400 steps per mm (which is typical for TR8x8 (p2) lead screws on 1.8°(200 steps per revolution) stepper motors and 1/16 microstepping) but is configured as 800, your layer height advances twice as much although the `Z=0` level would be okay! I now read (from the updated question) that the value for the steps/mm for the Z axis is 2560, this implies that you are using M8 lead screws with a pitch of 1.25 mm on a 1/16 microstepping board and 200 steps per revolution steppers.
From the specifications of your printer follows that the Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B uses:
* Stepper Motors: 1.8° step angle with 1/16 micro-stepping
This image show the configuration of the axes:
So 2560 is correct!
## Conclusion:
Your initial leveling and height setting is incorrect, when you printer is at `Z=0`, it actually is positioned higher. Hence your first layer has very bad adhesion and is not properly flattened and each consecutive layer shows the same problems of falling hot filament. When the speed increases on the next layers the hot filament deposition cannot follow the nozzle, hence the "spaghetti" looks.
> 4 votes
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Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, layer-height, geeetech
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thread-7332 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7332 | Tevo Michelangelo nozzle below build plate? | 2018-10-30T17:22:34.917 | # Question
Title: Tevo Michelangelo nozzle below build plate?
I got a Tevo Michelangelo as first 3D printer today and already got a problem with the bed leveling: The extruder nozzle is way below the build plate. (When I auto-home the axes, which I've done several times). I thought to just adjust the plate downwards, but it was incredibly slow, and there was almost no progress.
Here's a picture, sorry for the bad quality:
Should I continue adjusting it downwoards via the screws (It's getting harder), or is there some other way to solve this? Or am I just making a dumb mistake?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Just move the Z-endstop up a little higher, also make sure the bed leveling screws are not completely screwed in.
So:
1. Move the head of the printer up.
2. Move up the Z-endstop so that the nozzle is a little higher than the build platform.
3. Home the printer.
4. Disable the stepper motors and move the head over the bed to a certain position (e.g. a corner without disturbing the Z axis), once you get to a new position of the bed, raise the bed by unscrewing the screws until a piece of paper shows noticeable drag when pulled between the nozzle and build platform.
5. Goto 3 until you have done all corners several times, also the center of the bed. It is advised to once in a while re-home the printer, this way accidental Z-axis movement is compensated again.
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Tags: nozzle, bed-leveling, build-plate
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thread-7336 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7336 | Hollow wing for rc plane | 2018-10-30T21:05:59.157 | # Question
Title: Hollow wing for rc plane
I am trying to print a wing for a rc plane with my 3D printer. In order to make the wing as light as possible I need to hollow it (and afterwards put some stable structure there). I've tried the Blender Solidify modifier to do this but without success. The material on the sharp edge on the rear part of the wing gets thinner and thinner although the "Even Thickness" option is checked (see picture). When preparing this for printing, the slicer puts only one line of filament there instead of two. What I need is a brim on the inner side of the stl file with a constant spacing.
I've also tried the Meshmixer Hollow and Extrude modifiers. They both had problems with those sharp edges (see picture).
The third program I've tested was FreeCAD. But it crashed at all :-(
Can someone please help me? I would appreciate any suggestion or other programs which can handle this problem. Remodeling is no option for me as I have even more complex objects to hollow for example the fuselage.
The stl file of the wing can be found here: https://files.fm/u/5futezwj
Thanks so much for your help!
# Answer
I am sorry to inform you, that the answer to "How do I fix the thickness" is "Remodel them" - especially in this case as the whole design is... awkward.
But you don't necessarily need to resign them from scratch, if you can fix it... But beware, fixing does only work **sometimes**...
First of all, **Blender is NOT a good modeling software for designing parts that shall be printed**, Blender is a 3D Artist program, not a CAD program. It can serve its course, but it can and will ruin your day. I suggest grabbing Autodesk Fusion 360, since it is mighty and free for small makers.
# Step 1: Transfer into CAD software
For our first step, we want to take the surface of the Wing and export it as an STL. To do this, remove all interior vertices. ALL. Save as a work-project. Look for "BAD" areas - try to have as little vertices as possible. If several are in the same flat area feel free to remove some. The simpler, the better - compare these two pictures - left the bad side, right the good.
Export via `File > Export > .stl`.
Open Fusion 360 and import via the process outlined here: `Insert > Mesh`.
Now we need to turn our Mesh into a BRep like described here:
* Deactivate the pickup of model history by right-clicking the project in the left, then "Don't capture design history"
* `Modify > Mesh > Mesh tp BRep`
* choose your object and `OK`
* reactivate the model history by right-clicking the project in the left, then "Don't capture design history"
# Step 2: assigning Thickness
We got a surface now... or rather several that are stitched together. We want to give them thickness...
* `create > thicken`
* click on one area, choose the thickness as a negative value. For example `-1 mm`
* click on the body's lightbulb to make it visible again
* rinse and repeat for each area not yet thickened
+ Hint: `rightclick` opens a context menu that offers `repeat ...`, where ... is the last used operation, in this case: thicken. This considerably can speed it up.
# Step 3: Combining thickened parts
Now, we have several thickened parts, all of them intersecting or touching. like, what usually looks like this...
actually is these different parts (which I colored for showing only - it is totally unnecessary!)
It's easy to see these all intersect. And luckily, intersecting parts can be easily merged!
* `Modify > Combine`
* click one, then another. OK.
* rinse and repeat as much as you can - some pieces will throw an "inconsistent edge-face-relationship" error. If these crop up, you need to start over, fixing the Mesh.
To state it clear after wasting 2 hours on this:
# Your files needs to be done again from scratch.
In a proper CAD modeling software. Because what you have there is not fixable easily.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Don't design your part as hollow. Make it solid. Then put it in the slicer and chose the infill (i recomment cubic pattern in cura) you want. So you have a mainly hollow wing with a nice structure in it.
> 1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, slicing, cad
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thread-7345 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7345 | How does one use a heat tower? | 2018-11-02T00:18:26.663 | # Question
Title: How does one use a heat tower?
I've been asking around on how to choose the right temperature for a given filament. I noticed that with two different brands of pla I have to print at different temperatures, and the manufacturer specifies a broad range of print temperatures.
I keep hearing about heat towers, and have found various examples on thingiverse.
My question is how do I actually print one? And then, how do I judge the results?
# Answer
> 23 votes
When you slice an STL of a heat tower, ***you need to tell the slicer*** that you need a ***different temperature at a certain level*** and maintain that new temperature until another change is requested.
The way I usually do it is by *using a post processing script in Ulltimaker Cura*, but you can do it yourself quite easily *by changing the G-code file manually*.
To get it to work in Ultimaker Cura is to:
* open a heat tower STL model onto the virtual build plate,
* choose the correct print settings, e.g. fan speed, print speed, layer thickness, etc.,
* now navigate from the main top menu bar `Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-Code`,
* select `Add a script` and choose `ChangeAtZ`,
* you now are presented with an option (called `Trigger`) that you can change options at either a certain `Height` or at a certain `Layer No.` number, you decide what you want to use based on the model and layersize used, but height can be chosen safely when you know the height changes in the heat tower model
* set a certain height at which you want to change the print properties by specifying a height in option `Change Height`,
* now put a checkmark in `Change Extruder 1 Temp` (be sure that the box `Behavior` is set to `Keep value` so that it maintains this value until you specify otherwise, else it is only valid for a single layer),
* a new input box will be presented to you where you can enter the value of the extruder,
* repeat this adding of "changes at certain height" e.i. instances of `ChangeAtZ` until you have specified all the temperatures for all the levels
* now slice the model (if not done automatically) and save the G-code file for printing.
If you look into the generated G-code file (the snippet below is taken from a G-code file for an Ultimaker 3) you will see that the post processing script will add extra lines in your G-code file. E.g. the following snippet shows you 2 changes of temperature, one at 5 mm (extruder 1 @ 250 °C), the other at 10 mm (extruder 1 @ 245 °C):
```
...
;LAYER:48
G0 X93.4 Y132.161 Z5
;ChangeAtZ V5.1.1: executed at 5.00 mm
M117 Printing... ch@ 5.0
M104 S250.000000 T0
...
...
;LAYER:98
G0 X93.4 Y132.35 Z10
;ChangeAtZ V5.1.1: executed at 10.00 mm
M117 Printing... ch@ 10.0
M104 S245.000000 T0
...
```
The bottom line is that the extruder needs to be instructed to be heated or cooled to a new temperature. This is also something you could have inserted yourself manually by adding the codes `M104 SXXX.000000 T0` at specific levels where `XXX` is the extruder temperature you need for that level.
Basically this describes ***how to print*** the heat tower calibration prints, not ***the selection of the settings*** (e.g. extruder temperature) to use for your prints. When you created the print file you are ready to print the tower and observe the quality of printing. You can look at the print and visually inspect the temperature giving you the best aesthetic performance, the best overhang performance, the best "filling" performance, highest speed, etc. It is **you** that decides what is best for your application. Alternatively you could print some coupon tests and see which are structurally the best. Please note that additional towers for different settings like layer height, print part cooling and print speed to may be necessary to optimize the print process.
---
*Sidemark, I prefer the use of parametric models (e.g. in OpenSCAD) over the STL models found on the internet, this way I can embed the exact printer setting in the tower for reference. See e.g. this answer.*
---
Tags: print-quality, filament, slicing, calibration, print-material
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thread-7344 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7344 | Good alternative to HDPE for FDM | 2018-11-01T15:39:29.283 | # Question
Title: Good alternative to HDPE for FDM
A while back, I had worked on building a Yostwerks Sea Cruiser. Now I'm thinking of trying to create a 3D printable (or 3D millable) version of the plans.
The original design uses cross-sections cut from a half-inch thick HDPE sheet. However, I am considering changing this out for one of the easier to print materials, but I cannot find any comparative information about stiffness of HDPE versus other 3D printing materials.
Can I get a suggestion for a alternative to HDPE that is as stiff or stiffer as well as same density or lighter. The Kayak frame is expected to be compressing the cross-sections.
An example set of cross-sections is as below:
Please note that I have also considering changing the shape of the cross-sections to make stiffer yet lighter cross sections, but that will require some trade-off between portable sized cross-sections versus the stiffness of the cross-sections.
# Answer
According to the chart on this page HDPE has a flexural modulus of between 0.75 and 1.575 Gpa; meanwhile PETG has a flexural modulus of 2.20 Gpa, meaning PETG is the stiffer material.
HDPE, by definition, has a density greater than 0.941g/cc. PETG has a density of about 1.25g/cc.
So while PETG may be denser (depending on the HDPE used), it is more rigid, while not being too rigid.
PETG is quite printable using FDM. If you were printing at a higher temperature and high % infill, I could see it holding up well enough. I've printed heavy duty parts with it using a 0.8mm nozzle.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Because of the inherent nature of FDM, material properties will most certainly be always lower than casted/extruded sheet material. Furthermore, your question implies to use the same geometry of the ribs, I doubt whether there will be a filament that is able to get close to your requirements regarding strength and stiffness (for the same geometry). Your best choice for filament would be a high strength filament type like PC, certain co-polyester and ABS. But, I'm more inclined to say that this whole question is more of a design issues rather than material selection issue. For that reason I struggled to vote to close as being off topic for this site. In aerospace engineering t-stiffeners are used to make panels, e.g. wing or hull sections, more stiff by riveting T-profile shaped aluminium stiffeners onto the panels, this is something you could consider (bolt on aluminium profiles), as well as incorporating these stiff ridges directly printed in your design, but that would change the shape of the ribs.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: material
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thread-4814 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4814 | Printing Object in multiple parts | 2017-10-26T06:14:27.227 | # Question
Title: Printing Object in multiple parts
Is there any software/methods to automatically splice objects into multiple pieces sort of like a jig saw puzzle so that I can combine them together and bypass the build plate size limit?
As an example I have this 2D image that I want to print out but my printers size limit is roughly the size of the blue "squares." It's pretty tedious and time consuming to do this manually. Also, any tips on getting seamless lines or proper alignment when gluing these pieces together are appreciated.
# Answer
> 4 votes
From what I understand, you're trying to partition your object into smaller pieces with the hopes of putting them back together in a manner similar to a Jigsaw puzzle.
There are two options that I know of to do this, which requires using OpenSCAD:
* The PuzzleCut library - This allows you to disassemble your object into a multiple pieces that can be assembled together in a jigsaw puzzle type manner
* The PinCut library - This allows you to disassemble your objects into multiple pieces that than be reassembled using the pins and corresponding holes on the pieces.
# Answer
> 1 votes
* You mentioned youre using Fusion 360; if so, you could just split your final body or component into separate bodies. Then you could export each body separately.
* Slic3r and Slic3r PE both have the **Cut** command, but unfortunately it only will cut on the XY plane.
* If you are on Windows 10, 3D Builder has a good tool for splitting STL files.
+ Open your STL in 3D Builder
+ Use the **Edit** \> **Split** command
+ Adjust the plane to where you want the object cut
+ Select **Keep both** and click **✓ Split**
+ Note that you can't export individual objects; you must copy each object into a new 3D Builder window to save it separately.
* Meshmixer is an excellent tool to learn overall but has a learning curve.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Sorry to put it that way, but does 3D printing the best "tool" for your case?
it seems you want to generate a huge flat file when a CnC would be the best to generate a clean and solid part.
Otherwise, as others suggets you are looking for a tooling tool.
---
Tags: 3d-design, abs
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thread-7355 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7355 | How can I run two instances (or equivalent) of Slic3r on OS X? | 2018-11-05T00:58:59.340 | # Question
Title: How can I run two instances (or equivalent) of Slic3r on OS X?
I am modifying some Slic3r config parameters and comparing the results. How can I have two instances (or equivalent: I would like to see two model windows with their associated configuration screens) of Slic3r at the same time? I'm on OS X, but if there is a generic (e.g. within Slic3r) solution that will be preferrable.
# Answer
> 1 votes
From a terminal window, run the command
```
open -n -a slic3r
```
Each time the command is executed, a new instance of Slic3r is created.
As per Carl's note, keep in mind that both instances of Slic3r will be sharing the same configuration files, so it will be safest not to save configuration changes while both are open.
# Answer
> 3 votes
You could duplicate the application by clicking on the application and pressing **Command (⌘) + D**, and then run both - although I'm not sure if that would mess with the preferences. I haven't fully tested it, but both instances opened up and worked, seemingly ok.
You could even rename them to something other than "Slic3r" and "Slic3r copy" to remind you which application is slicing which model, for example:
* "TestCube" and "Benchy", or;
* "Slic3r-TestCube" and "Slic3r-Benchy", or whatever.
However, Mark's answer seems much more elegant.
---
Tags: slic3r
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thread-7360 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7360 | Cantilever snap-fits print axis | 2018-11-05T14:33:59.867 | # Question
Title: Cantilever snap-fits print axis
I'm new to 3d printing and need to design and print a case on an Ultimaker S5 using PLA. The case is box like and consist of a top and a bottom part. I was thinking about cantilever snap-fits to join the two parts. I read that these snap-fits need to be printed in the X-Y-plane for better stability. However with the bottom/top side down the walls will be in the Z-axis and thus the snap-fits would be printed in the X-Z- plane. If I would print the part lying in it's side I would need a lot of support in the inside. How am I supposed to do this correctly?
Also what tolerances should I use to make the parts fit well while still being separable?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Let's look at the general design.... it is a case... so a box of to halves. And we need some kind of connector...
How about splitting the connector into a *separate* C-shaped piece? That way the connector clip can be printed with the C to the plane, getting maximum durability out of either pice. You just need to print some short overhangs, the *clip* going around the central box, possibly in dedicated notches. Also, this is easily removable from the outside with a screwdriver. And easily replaceable. Also, both sides could be identical, if designed in the right way.
Or we use a slot in the lower body, and a Y shaped slot in the top, and make the connectors have a flat hook that matches into the lower body (push in from below) then the split top pushes through the top and latches in... This isn't removable from outside easily.
Third alternative: bolts. If the item inside the box - a PCB? - is going to be bolted to the lower case anyway, why not add extra long screws and have the top case be bolted to the lower case with the same screw that holds the PCB in place? Or, just use a pair of additional bolts and nuts on the corners.
Edit: Recently, Angus aka MakersMuse uploaded a video discussing snap-fit connections and how to make them 3D printable with the example of a backpack buckle.
---
Tags: pla, 3d-design
--- |
thread-1207 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1207 | How to remove a PLA print stuck to a BuildTak sheet | 2016-05-20T21:12:01.043 | # Question
Title: How to remove a PLA print stuck to a BuildTak sheet
BuildTak is great because the printed plastic really sticks to it, it pretty much solved all the problems I had with prints detaching from the buildplate during printing.
However, it does sometimes cause the opposite problem of prints sticking too much and just not detaching from the build plate.
I'm specifically not asking how to prevent this from happening - I'm asking what to do after I made a mistake and now have a print that isn't coming loose.
# Answer
I would do as fred\_dot\_u initially suggested, by increasing the bed temp (or using a hair dryer) to heat the BuildTak. Then, use a small fan to quickly cool the platform (or at least quicker than room temperature). An ice pack on the build plate/part could also work. This drastic fluctuation between the build platform (or BuildTak) and the part should make it easier to remove the part.
This works because the temperature coefficient is going to be different between the build plate, BuildTak, and the 3D printed part. So, each part rises and falls in temperature at different rates. When objects are heated and cooled, they expand and contract (respectively). Essentially, as each object expands and contracts at different rates, the objects begin to separate.
A good example is if you've ever placed a jar into the fridge/freezer to make it easier to open. Typically the jar is glass and the lid is either plastic or metal. You'll notice that the lid is significantly easier to open, as opposed to its original state, because the lid and the jar physically react differently to temperature changes.
Also, here is a good article explaining a few different ways to remove a stuck part. (for prosperity sake, here's a quick list):
* Brute force. Just try to yank on it until it pries off.
* Sharp objects. Try using a small blade to get under a corner of the part and wiggle the part a bit. Careful not to break the blade and send it flying.
* Utilize temperature difference. I already explained this above.
* Use solvents. I didn't know this, but apparently there are solvents in the market that are targeted for 3D printing maintenance. Essentially its just an alcohol-based liquid...
* Use floss. Another cool idea that's related to using a sharp object, using dental floss. Basically, any small object that you can remotely wiggle under the part and give you more leverage to yank on it.
* Invest in a flexible build platform. I've personally heard some mixed reviews on these (in present day of 2016). But material science is getting better every year, so who knows what will be available soon.
> 5 votes
# Answer
If you have a heated bed, bring the bed up to a reasonable temperature, then do as best as you can to create rapid cooling. If you can remove the bed, heated or not, consider to place it in a freezer or refrigerator. Obviously, if the bed is heated, you'll want to handle the bed carefully and not place it on anything in the freezer that could be damaged while it cools.
Unrealistically, pour liquid nitrogen over the bed. This may crack the bed and/or the model, as well as be all the more dangerous for unprotected users.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Use dental floss. It sounds a bit crazy, but I tried it for the first time yesterday, and it works like a charm.
1. Wrap the floss around two handles for comfort.
2. Loop the floss over the print. All the way down against the build plate.
3. Start pulling towards yourself, slowly but firmly.
4. Work the floss side to side if necessary.
Once the floss makes it all the way to the front side of the print, it will be removed from the buildtak cleanly, without torqueing the bed unnecessary, or popping the print of suddenly and flinging it across the room.
---
Glide style floss works better than waxed.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: pla, post-processing, build-plate, warping
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thread-7364 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7364 | What parts are suitable replacements for an Ender 3 Pro? | 2018-11-06T00:34:34.183 | # Question
Title: What parts are suitable replacements for an Ender 3 Pro?
I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got my first 3D printer, an Ender 3 Pro by Creality.
I've tried to find information about the type of nozzles should I look for. I'm trying to find stainless steel nozzles but there are so many models (M7, M8, etc.) and I have no idea what nozzle type I should get.
I've tried searching on Google but the only info I could find is that the extruder is an MK-10.
I am also looking for a heating cartridge for the hot end, but I still cannot find no information about the size that I need (15 mm/20 mm/30 mm). Also looked for info about the heated bed so I know what kind of thermistor I need (I found two types and no clue which one to get).
Where can I find some technical information about these?
# Answer
The Ender 3 takes an M6 thread (metric 6 mm diameter). Measurement of stock nozzle shown.
Most sellers will list compatible printers Ender 2, Ender 3, Ender 4, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 Mini, CR-10-S4, CR-10-S5, CR-8, CR-7. Will Also Fit Any Other MK10 Heater Blocks.
I recently bought some titanium alloy nozzles as the brass one got closed over after crashing into the glass bed.
> 6 votes
# Answer
There is no such thing as a single MK10 hotend design. The Chinese aftermarket has mingled the designations.
If it has a MK10 like Makerbot hotend, then the nozzles you are looking for are M7 threads. It appears (see this answer) that your hotend is a cloned MK10 and has different dimensions, you have the M6 version.
Quote from link above: (this is about the Makerbot MK10)
> MK10 was a complete change of the hotend. MK10 uses smooth OD thermal barriers with a larger 4mm OD 2mm ID PTFE liner. MK10 also uses M7 threads, vs the M6 of all previous models. This is because a 4mm PTFE liner is barely enough metal to make the outer tube with m6 threads. MK10 is completely incompatible with all previous hotend parts. Every part is different. Mk10 still uses MK9 feeder parts.
You could measure your current heat block (the width of the Aluminium block); if you look at the MK10 drawings of a proper M7 MK10 Makerbot (or derivative) hotend (below) you see that the width of the block is about 19 mm (which would be the length of the heater cartridge).
The CEO of ToyBuilder labs explains the difference between an "MK10" and an MK8 in this video:
As can be seen, your nozzle clearly is not an MK10.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: extruder, hotend, creality-ender-3, replacement-parts, part-identification
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thread-6624 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6624 | Ender 3 nozzle homes off the bed in the Y axis | 2018-08-10T19:31:29.763 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 nozzle homes off the bed in the Y axis
I just received my new Creality Ender 3. I was going through and checking/adjusting everything for alignment, and I noticed that when you "auto home" the print head, the nozzle stops off the front of the print bed by 5-10 mm.
Is that normal?
Is it perhaps by design to allow purging the nozzle without dumping on the bed?
It doesn't appear that there is any way to adjust the Y stop switch without making modifications to it. It also didn't look like there was any easy way to move the bed either.
# Answer
> 6 votes
Yes, this is the "intended" behavior, as the home in relation to the physical limit position is not placed correctly about 7.5 mm into the bed in both X and Y.
to correct this, please look at the Recalibrating Home-position for the Ender3
# Answer
> 7 votes
Many printer's X/Y endstops are not at the origin of the build plate/heated bed. In the firmware, an offset is defined from the build plate origin to the endstop locations. This is normal, nothing to worry about.
When you hook up your printer to your computer over USB, and install a program that can interface with the printer (e.g. PronterFace, OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, etc.) through a so called terminal, you can send the print head to the origin with command `G1 X0 Y0` (or you can put that line in a G-code file and print the file, be sure to have homed the printer first with `G28`). You will then see the head move to the origin, which should normally be the left front corner as the firmware compensated for the endstop offsets. If the print head is not at the origin after these commands, you could recalibrate the endstop offsets.
# Answer
> 4 votes
It is intentional for the head to start slightly off the build plate.
If it did start on the build plate you could crash the nozzle when the bed is not levelled. Note the level varies with temperature and build plate type. If you switch from PLA to ABS etc you should relevel the bed.
Having just had the innaccurate z-end stop switch cause a deep gouge across my stock build plate, I strongly recommend getting an ABL (auto bed leveller).
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Tags: nozzle, y-axis, creality-ender-3
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thread-7369 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7369 | Ender 3 seemingly speeds up too much on straight long shell lines | 2018-11-06T21:39:45.397 | # Question
Title: Ender 3 seemingly speeds up too much on straight long shell lines
After few good prints with my new Ender 3, I noticed that prints with longer shell straight lines (\> 5 cm) have extrusion problems in the middle of those lines.
I figured that this might be because the printing speed (70 mm/s) and filament temperature (210 °C for PLA). So I increased my filament temperature about 215 °C and lowered print speed to 60 mm/s. I am using Cura v3.5.1. For the next few smaller prints everything was perfect.
Now I am printing a bigger 128 mm X 48 mm rectangular shape. In the middle of the 128mm line of the outer shell, I have signs of under extrusion. Looks like dents.
I also notice that the head is really fast during this 128 mm travel. No way ~2 seconds would take 60 mm/s to travel 128 mm. It is more like 1 second or less.
Why would my head travel at such speeds?
I am attaching my speed settings.
I am attaching the image of the printed piece and the defect generated.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Your travel speed is set to 120mm/s so it would make sense the 128mm travel takes ~1 second. You most likely have combing turned on so that it doesn't not need to retract on travels. This makes it ooze plastic as it travels and would mimic underextrustion.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-ender-3, speed
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thread-7329 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7329 | Delta Printer: Slighty incorrect print alignment on the build plate | 2018-10-29T19:55:17.520 | # Question
Title: Delta Printer: Slighty incorrect print alignment on the build plate
After building a Delta printer, I noticed that my whole prints are slightly tilted around the Z-axis in comparison to the slicer (e.g. Cura). There is no twist layer wise. This means, the prints themself look actually perfect.
I just don't know what could be the reason of the rotation. I do not believe it is a build issue of the printer, because I tried to keep the printer frame pretty stiff and symmetric. Could it be, that the Auto-Calibrate Feature of Marlin can add such a rotation?
The picture below illustrates the problem. I expect the black alignment of the print and get the orange one. Note that the print is still a rectangle with ~90° corners.
# Answer
> 5 votes
I figured out that the reason is probably a slightly translated slider construction. Instead of using a proper centered slider as shown in **red**, I used a slider construction like illustrated in **yellow**. When all sliders are translated on each tower like this, the print should be tilted by the same amount. This seems to have no influence on the general shape of the object. However, for my next printer I will use a proper centered uni-body slider.
# Answer
> -1 votes
If I am reading this correctly, your prints are being either stretched or your prints are shifting / leaning on more complicated prints.
In this case, given that you are on a Delta printer, my answer is the same for all. I usually do Cartesian based 3d printing but the concept is the same for any drifting or leaning. You simply need to recalibrate your steps per MM for each motor, and tighten your belts. You will have the complication of the interaction of the 3 arms, that others will be able to answer better. But in the end, if each arm moves as it should, the belts are not slipping, and you do not have issues with moving too fast (jerking can cause the belt to shift, and a loose belt can cause whiplash / and other print artifacts). My bet is your steps per MM is off on one of the motors, or you could have an overheating issue (not likely).
There are many guides to help with Delta specific calibration.
I can provide a better answer with photos. See Stackoverflows guide on asking questions.
Edit with the diagram (not a photo), you issue might be caused by stepper over voltage and you will need to adjust your pololus. If you hear a repeating Thud noise, you have your voltage too high.
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Tags: delta
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thread-7376 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7376 | Is my printer over extruding? | 2018-11-08T23:41:46.500 | # Question
Title: Is my printer over extruding?
I'm getting some slight pooling on the end of straight lines on my Ender-3
Is this due to over extruding? Or some other issue?
# Answer
It looks like you some of your layers are printing with 100% infill.
If you are noticing plastic still coming out at the end of lines then I think your pressure in the nozzle is high when it is getting to the end of those lines and that pressure is pushing out the extra plastic.
That could be because your over extruding, but if it is only happening on layers where you are printing with 100% infill it could also be because lines are too close together and so when your trying to push out plastic to fill all the gaps in the model the pressure is building up in the nozzle because the gaps in the infill are to small for the amount of plastic the printer is trying to push into them.
I would see if it is happening on all your lines or is it worse on layers where the printer is printing 100% infill. Then maybe try adjusting the amount the printer is extruding and see how it changes the print.
Adjusting the speed could also make a difference. And some slicers have a setting to tell the printer to coast at the end of a line so the printer will stop extruding just before finishing a line as well. If you think the other setting are all tuned as good as you can get them then trying the coast setting might help for the model you are trying to print.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The extruded filament is very inconsistent in deposited line width, so this is potentially over-extrusion. It is advised to check and calibrate the extruder, see "How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?".
It looks as though the positional accuracy is off (without knowing the actual print object; some lines are not touching), please check your belt tension.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, extruder, extrusion
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thread-7379 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7379 | Creality Ender-3 slanted nozzle | 2018-11-09T07:50:22.720 | # Question
Title: Creality Ender-3 slanted nozzle
I’ve just received my first 3D printer, the Ender-3 and while assembling the unit I noticed that the nozzle is slanted and not vertical on its holder unit.
* Is this normal or do I have to try to make it vertical?
* Did I receive a faulty nozzle unit?
# Answer
> 4 votes
This is not normal, the heat break (which is the cylindrical part between the nozzle block and the upper cooling part assembly is probably bent in your example) should be perpendicular to the 2020 guide beam (X-axis) so that the nozzle exit is exactly perpendicular to the (heated) platform.
You either received a faulty heat break, or too much force is exerted during assembly. You should contact the seller.
You could disassemble (after you contacted the seller) to see if the heat break is bent or something else is incorrect. Once you have the heat break out, you can measure the dimensions and order a replacement locally (for speed). It is advisable to have some heat breaks, nozzles, and even a heater block, heater cartridges and thermistors available as spares, these are pretty cheap to obtain through the regular Chinese vendor sites or auction sites.
If the heat break is bent, bending it back is not advised as this heat break easily tears open as it usually consists of thin walls.
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Tags: hotend, creality-ender-3
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thread-7382 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7382 | What are the most common 3D printing file formats? | 2018-11-09T14:48:22.973 | # Question
Title: What are the most common 3D printing file formats?
What are the most common 3D printing file formats, and which one is more effective or used more than others?
# Answer
> 0 votes
STL is the standard for pretty much everything out there.
EDIT: This is for models to be sliced and printed. Gcode is what would actually be executed, after slicing, to create the print.
# Answer
> 7 votes
# 3D-Model Exchange Files
The most common file formats to exchange models for 3D printing are STL, OBJ, FBX, COLLADA, 3DS, IGES, STEP, and VRML/X3D.
Of these, STL, OBJ, AMF, and 3MF are the most popular formats according to All3DP. Pointing out which is the best is a subjective interpretation and not fit for SE sites. However, for many of the model sharing sites, like e.g. Thingiverse.com, many people share the STL file format.
* STL file format is short for “stereolithography” and is a 3D rendering that is containing a single color.
* OBJ file format, this format stores information about your 3D model. It encodes surface geometry of your 3D model and is also able to store color and even texture information.
* AMF file format stands for Additive Manufacturing File Format, this is a relative new format for 3D printing based on an XML open standard. Like OBJ it can store color information. When compressed, the size can be reduced significantly to about half the size of STL files.
* 3MF file format stands for 3D Manufacturing Format. It is also a relatively new file format that aims to be a new standard for additive manufacturing. According to the 3MF consortium, it allows higher inter-operability between 3D modeling software and other applications, services, platforms, and printers.
# Actual Printing Files
In the end, all these formats store the models of your products which eventually need to be *transformed into 3D printer understandable instructions*. These instructions are called G-code commands.
Lately I also noted that Ultimaker Cura stores sliced models in GZ file format for my Ultimaker 3 Extended, which is a compressed archive from the GZIP compression utility containing the actual G-code file.
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Tags: print-quality, file-formats
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thread-715 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/715 | Point Cloud to STL File | 2016-03-09T01:37:35.403 | # Question
Title: Point Cloud to STL File
I had a friend request that I print out the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan as a gift for her PhD adviser. I went to NOAA and the site had a few files for the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan.
Files and types are located here: http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/mgg/greatlakes/michigan.html
I am trying to convert this into an STL file to print in my 3D printer however I am having no luck in converting this into a mesh I can use. I have tried multiple approaches with the different files that are listed but cannot seem to get it to properly convert to a mesh. I have tried the following so far:
-Import an .xyz file into MeshLab to convert it to an STL. After I import it looks like nothing imported and I can't navigate around in the file
-Import an ASC file into MeshLab to convert it to an STL. After I import it, I get no errors but the output is a long, thin mesh that looks nothing like lake Michigan
-Just for a test, I imported the .xyz file into Autodesk ReCap just to see what would happen. I noticed that the points were in a long thin area similar to the ASC import but as I browsed around I noticed that the each layer of dots was the actual Bathymetry contours.
I have tried multiple approaches and software beyond these but can't seem to get the files to convert into a printable mesh that I can manipulate to send to my 3D printer.
# Answer
> 4 votes
In order to properly get an STL file out of a point cloud, you'll need some tool to help triangulate the points to create proper shell surfaces. The shell that is created in an STL is what the slicing engine will "slice".
I'm not as familiar with the full potential of MeshLab, but I would think this tool is best suited for files that at least have most of shell already in place. Essentially best for fixing STL's.
In the past, I've used (the very expensive) Unigraphics NX8. This CAD/CAM software is very powerful and has tools for creating meshes out of point clouds. I believe it was the sew tool that allowed me to do this in the past (I no longer have access to the software). Other CAD programs such as SolidWorks, Rhino, AutoCAD, etc. might have similar features.
Alternatively, I think it looks like you might be able to convert a 3D point cloud in SketchUp. If the cloud is layered by height and each layer had points on the same -Z- plane, then you might be able to automate creating lines between the nearest points on the same plane. Then it might just take a little bit of manual labor to "fix" the model to become 3D printing ready. Also check out this forum post, it looks like someone had luck in converting terrain point clouds.
Completely alternatively, have you considered converting an image to STL? I've done this many times before and it turns out quite nicely. If you can find topographical map of the lake, you could alter the image into grayscale (play with it a bit). Then use software to convert the grayscale image to STL.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I was able to download the file collection from the link you posted, although I used none of the Grid files, as they seemed inappropriate to this task. The shape files were then imported into AutoCAD using the trial version of Spatial Manager.
The resulting drawing indicates that it's in 3D. When the 3D orbit tool is selected, the image rotates a flat drawing.
I saved the AutoCAD DWG file and imported it with SketchUp, ostensibly not the smartest program for this sort of thing. The result was a flat image, not a 3D one.
I suspect that the resulting flat drawing IS the image and cannot be 3D printed, unless you have reason to believe otherwise.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You can do this using MATLAB, or possibly Octave (the open-source version of MATLAB). I'm doing this right now to print a globe with exaggerated topography and bathymetry. MATLAB has tons of tools for importing data. I'm sure you can import the Lake Michigan bathymetry data, though you may have to hunt for an importing script on the MATLAB exchange.
As long as you can get your data imported as a 2D matrix of X, Y and Z values, you can use the `surf2stl()` function by Bill McDonald, available here:
https://www.mathworks.com/matlabcentral/fileexchange/4512-surf2stl
This creates an STL you can use. Note that it's just a surface, so you'll need to give it depth some other way so your printed object isn't paper-thin.
---
Tags: software, 3d-models
--- |
thread-7393 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7393 | Getting a Cura Raft to stick to the object more firmly (for ABS) | 2018-11-10T21:29:03.850 | # Question
Title: Getting a Cura Raft to stick to the object more firmly (for ABS)
I have been have a problem printing ABS with Cura on an Ender 3.
I am getting good bed adhesion on the raft, but the object on top of the raft easily curls off it. See photo below.
Settings:
* Bed 110 °C
* Nozzle 260 °C
* Fan 0 % speed
How do you control how strongly the raft adheres to the object in Cura?
# Answer
You should reduce the air gap option called "Raft Air Gap". Printing ABS optimally requires an enclosure of the printer, wind and draft cause temperature changes which could lead to layer separation.
> 6 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, adhesion, creality-ender-3, rafts
--- |
thread-7397 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7397 | Can I use a 2D photo to get a 3D printing model? | 2018-11-11T01:56:33.287 | # Question
Title: Can I use a 2D photo to get a 3D printing model?
Can I use a 2D photo to get a 3D printing model that gives a good result?
# Answer
With just 1 2D photo, you can never get a 100% accurate 3D object. That is because you don't really know about the hidden parts. Think of a photo of a smiling mischievous child that is facing you, and you can't see that they are holding a sling shot behind their back. However, with multiple 2D photos, one can reconstruct a 3D object, provided all the parts are seen. This is called photogrammetry. You can search wikipedia and youtube for in-depth discussion about this. It is an entire science. There are applications that do this for you, but I can't recall the details right now.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, graphics
--- |
thread-7395 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7395 | How to set the boundaries for BLTouch probing | 2018-11-10T22:23:45.753 | # Question
Title: How to set the boundaries for BLTouch probing
I have just installed the BLTouch on my Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 and I want to set it up so the probing does the 9 points in a perimeter that uses most of the bed surface area. At the moment the probe just covers a small area.
I read that to sort it out you have to change the section " // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach)." but I can't figure out what to set it as, my current settings are as follows:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - 120)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - 120)
```
When I try to set it so something like:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - 35)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - 35)
```
I get an error reading :
```
RIGHT PROBE_BED POSITION is outside the probe region.
```
Any help you can give me on what I am doing wrong will be greatly appreciated.
The probe offset from the extruder are as follows:
```
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -41 // X offset: -left +right [of
the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5 // Y offset: -front +behind [the
nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1 // Z offset: -below +above [the
nozzle]
```
For completeness, this is the G-code that I am using: CE3\_square.gcode.
# Answer
> 5 votes
As explained in this answer it is *you* that needs to calculate where the head (read sensor) is supposed to go depending on the amount of space you have left on the carriage shafts.
As can be seen from your configuration, your sensor is located on the left front (when facing the machine) at 41 mm left from the nozzle you are requesting the sensor to travel to a position that is outside the bed (35 mm), so you should at least subtract 41 mm from your X bed size.
As you have not posted a bed size, an assumed X bed size of 220 mm would mean that the maximum probing distance for X (i.e. `RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION`) of 220 - 41 = 179 mm
In your case -41 mm would take it to the edge, so 30 mm extra would make it symmetrical:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - 41 - 30)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - 5 - 30)
```
Furthermore, it is way more convenient to set the Z distance between the probe and the nozzle using `M851 Zxx.xx` (where xx.xx denotes the offset as a negative value) than setting it with `Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER`.
---
Tags: bed-leveling, creality-ender-3, bltouch
--- |
thread-3742 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3742 | How many grams will be used in a print | 2017-03-14T20:53:52.453 | # Question
Title: How many grams will be used in a print
I have an STL file and I would like to know how many grams would this print consume. Is there a software so I can get it or an online link that can say me that?
# Answer
You can not tell this by looking at the STL file alone, because how much material will be used depends on the print settings (obviously, printing at 100% infill will consume much more material than 10%).
The best way to check the material usage is to load the model into a slicer and slice it using your preferred settings. Most slicers will report the projected material usage, often in grams but sometimes in meters of filament (but the two figures are easily converted between each other if you know the density and diameter of your material).
Here is an example in the Cura slicer:
Simplify3D (after you click "prepare to print!") also shows you the projected print time and material usage and even the cost of the material (if you have previously entered the material cost per kilogram):
> 9 votes
# Answer
Slic3r will calculate the weight after you have exported the G-Code.
Normally, you'll only see the "Info" box. But after saving as G-Code, there's a "Sliced Info" which mentions the weight according to the settings you made (filament type and infill).
That's how it looks like:
> 4 votes
# Answer
Some slicing programs will give this information. Here is the first comment at the end of the print, which gives volume and length of material used, from gcode generated by Slic3r:
```
; filament used = 388.6mm (0.9cm3)
```
According to ToyBuilder Labs, ABS is 1.04 g/cm<sup>3</sup>, so 0.9 * 1.04 = **0.936**, or just under one gram.
In the G-code file produced by the slicer, search for "filament" or "M30" - it's right after the M30. You might need to use the verbose G-code option.
> 2 votes
# Answer
This is a link I found that analyzes your G-code ( filament usage, time, etc.): gCodeViewer
From the description (emphasis is mine):
> * Analyze GCode
> + Print time, ***amount of plastic used***, layer height, etc. for whole file and for single layer
Here is a screenshot:
>
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament, abs
--- |
thread-7405 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7405 | Ultimaker Cura problems with build platform size and overhang support | 2018-11-12T20:50:43.540 | # Question
Title: Ultimaker Cura problems with build platform size and overhang support
I am attempting to print an axial fan blade, and due to the size requirements, I have to angle it on its side (despite only being 7.44 inches in diameter...). I am using an Ultimaker 3, which I thought was able to print 215mm (or 8.46 inches). This leads me to two questions:
**Question 1:** If my diameter is only 7.44 inches, **why am I unable to lay the fan blade flat** (see below - notice the dimensions are within the bounds)?
**Question 2:** **What is so wrong with the surfaces in red that Cura cannot print, even with supports?** I am using PVA as a support material, yet there is something wrong with my model in Cura. I checked the X-ray view and nothing seemed amiss.
# Answer
Ultimaker Cura print bed size sizes (shrinks) when you enable skirt, brim or raft build adhesion options. Try to print without build plate adhesion option if you want to push printing to the limits of the build plate. Furthermore, you mention the use of PVA, using 2 cores, the priming print tower also needs space to be printed, this can be also limiting your build plate space. Note that you can define where to print the tower, you could try locating it in a corner where the fan does not reach.
From your screenshot with the fan flat it appears that you have selected dual extrusion. Note that the bed size depends on the amount of cores you use, from Ultimaker:
> Left or right nozzle:
> 215 x 215 x 300 mm
> (8.5 x 8.5 x 11.8 inches)
>
> Dual extrusion:
> 197 x 215 x 300 mm
> (7.8 x 8.5 x 11.8 inches)
As an example I have made a 7.44" cylinder of 2" height and put it onto the UM3E build plate to show the differences when you use dual extrusion.
This image shows the cylinder when printed with a single core:
This image shows the same cylinder, but now with enabled "Extruder 2" as the "Support Extruder" option:
---
Having an Ultimaker 3E myself, ***printing PVA might not be very good choice as you need to print a lot of support material when printing upright***. PVA cooks easily even in the B core, it also needs to be very dry, PVA takes up moisture very fast and becomes useless after that. At work we have much better experience with break-away support material.
***Another consideration why you should not print this upright*** is the orientation of the layers. It is generally known that the layer to layer bonding is less strong that the material itself, it at least provides a lot of notches from which cracks can initiate and grow. This means that if you want to print this, you should lay it flat, this way the centrifugal force is in line with the layer deposition direction.
---
*With the correct layer height (read thin layers), you should be able to print this flat without support. I have printed similar structures like turbo turbine wheels with similar overhangs without support.*
> 4 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, support-structures, build-plate
--- |
thread-4103 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4103 | Anet A8 beginning layers not printing correctly | 2017-05-19T01:32:38.607 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 beginning layers not printing correctly
I have had an Anet A8 printer for about two months now and still have not gotten it to print good prints.
At first, it would only print completely solid parts and every time I would try infill from 10-90% the first layer would not stick or it would print really filmy like. As of now, it won't print the first layers for anything well but once it gets up about 10-ish layers it prints perfectly. I have tried a lot of stuff but it seems to be making it worse.
The pictures show my recent attempt at these settings below (Cura's default for normal quality), the print is supposed to be a 10 mm square. I have gone back to the default settings because nothing else was working.
* Using blue painter's tape
* Layer Height 0.1 mm
* In. Layer Height 0.3 mm
* WallThicken 0.8 mm
* Top/Bottom Thick 0.8 mm
* Infill Density 20%
* Grid Pattern
* Print Temp 210°C
* Bed Temp 65°C
* Dia 1.75 mm
* Flow 100%
* Brim (raft is a little better)
Any suggestions?
In the top picture you can also how the top layer has two bubble effects.
# Answer
> 3 votes
With respect to the filament lifting off, and/or not adhering correctly, on the first layer, see Filament lifts from the hot bed while printing... in particular, you may need to clean the bed, calibrate the leveling and the nozzle height (see my answer).
The fact that the prints are fine, after 10 or so layers, could be to do with the heat - at the higher layers the print is warm and no warping occurs, but below that, maybe the print bed is acting as a heat sink and making the filament cool too quickly - hence the distortion. Are you using a heated bed? If not, then maybe consider installing one.
Not sure about the bubbles: how do your store your filament? The bubbles could be due to water, which expands as it gets hot, thereby causing the filament to bubble. It is best to store your filament in an air tight container, to prevent it collecting moisture and dust from the air.
# Answer
> 3 votes
My Anet A8 has a concave bed, which is a defect. Check if yours has the same defect by putting a long ruler on its edge on the bed and look for a gap between it and the bed in the middle. If you find a gap then it is concave. The best solution is to put a piece of glass on the bed instead of blue tape, because glass is very flat. It will also help a lot with bed adhesion. I highly recommend this mod.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Try lowering your Z height a bit more for the first layer if you find yourself having bed adhesion problems. What brand of filament are you using? Did you try using some other brands?
# Answer
> 0 votes
When I first started printing with the anet A8, I also had trash first layers.
I tried (almost) everything:
1. Leveling the bed maniacally several times (all the screws in the frame need to be very tight)
2. Varying bed temperature and nozzle temperature at all possible combinations.
3. Adding blue masking tape
Nothing would significantly improve my first layer, except for **HAIRSPRAY**.
After discovering this secret, I went back and un-varied everything. I tried with and without tape, at high and low temperatures. With-out the hairspray it never stuck well. With the hairspray it stuck perfectly every time. A small spray is sufficient.
After you are done making a mess, use nail polish remover ( acetone ) to properly clean everything.
If you are doubting your G-code, get a pre-generated one for the A8. The ones that came on the SD card should print very well, nothing like the image you showed of the 1st layer.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, anet-a8
--- |
thread-5625 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5625 | Why the Anet A6 can't do .05 layer height | 2018-03-12T20:47:31.797 | # Question
Title: Why the Anet A6 can't do .05 layer height
So like I sayed in the title, Why can't the Anet A6 do .05 layer height? I found that some printers can do .05 layer heights, but the Anet A6 can't? I am interested to know if it is the stepper motors or the threaded rods or something. Maybe this is something I can do a small "test print" on?
# Answer
I'm not familiar with the Anet A6 specifically, but as many other things in a 3D printer, the minimum layer height is co-determined by a number of factors. For the Z-axis the factors I am aware of are:
* The number of steps in the stepper motor
* The geometry of the lead screw
* The tolerance with which the lead screw has been machined
* The microstep settings
* The quality of the stepper drivers
* The amount of play and flexibility of the X-axis gantry
* The ration between filament and nozzle diameter
* The precision of the extruder's stepper motor
* ...
Many printers that claim to have ridiculously low minimum Z-layer height do so by relying on the mathematical model only. It goes something like this: the lead screw has an offset of 1mm per revolution, the stepper motor makes 200 steps and is set for 32 microsteps per step so the minimum resolution should be...
```
1mm / (200 * 32) = 0.0002mm
```
The reality is however different. For example: the lead screw may have been machined with a tolerance of 0.002mm, so to make sure a layer has a thickness \>0mm its heigh should be \>0.004mm (20 times the theoretical limit computed with the microsteps). But to make sure layers have the same height ±10% you would need to increase the minimum layer heigh of an order of magnitude, bringing it to 0.04mm. A similar reasoning applies for the amount of play in the gantry, while the ratio between filament and nozzle influences the minimum volume of plastic that can be extruded per step (for very thin layers you want to be able to extrude a minimal amount of it).
At the end of the day **this is a typical case of "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link"**: the minimum layer height of a printer is affected much more dramatically by the limitations of the most imprecise component in the printer than by the performance of its best one.
As for your question about breaking the printer by issuing g-code with very thin layers: should you issue gcode that requires layers below that limit, the firmware will simply print at the same z-height (see comments, credits to Tom).
I'm unaware of people having permanently damaged their machines by issuing code with too thin Z-layers. But given how the firmware operates, I'd expect the quality of the print to be negatively affected, the filament to be possibly chewed by the cobbed wheel and in extreme cases cloggig of the printer head.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Your question is based on an incorrect premise. Just because the specifications list "minimum layer height: 0.1mm" does not mean the printer is unable to print thinner layers. It just means that the manufacturer is willing to guarantee that printing 0.1mm layers is possible, or that - for whatever reason - the marketing department decided to list 0.1mm in that table. 0.1mm is a nice, round number and seems to be the "gold standard" for 3D printers, but rarely is 0.1mm a limit that is inherent in the printer design.
The theoretical precision of the Z-axis is usually at least an order of magnitude better than the advertised minimum layer height. Of course, the precision of the Z-axis is not the only limiting factor (at a certain point, you need to extrude so slowly that you start to be limited by the resolution of the extruder stepper), but often even impractically thin layers print just fine.
In many cases, printers are capable of printing layers far thinner than the manufacturers officially advertise. More often than not, minimum layer height is limited by your patience and the fact that doing a print with thinner layer heights takes much longer for a rather limited gain in quality. Just give it a try and try to print 0.05mm layers, and you might be pleasantly surprised by the results!
(Note: it is advisable to choose a layer height that is a multiple of the distance for a single (full) step of the Z-stepper. For my printer (which has a very coarse leadscrew on the Z-axis), this is 0.02mm so - for me - it would be better to print with 0.06mm or 0.04mm layers than with 0.05mm layers).
> 5 votes
# Answer
I have an Anet A6 and once you get your settings dialled in, bed level accurate and belt tensioner correct you can do 0.05 mm very well (although I for some reason went with 0.06 mm and never tried the extra 0.01 mm lower but it shouldn't have an issue). Note: I did this using all the stock parts so 0.4 mm brass nozzle.
I highly recommend you print and install a front Y axis frame brace and a Y axis belt tensioning mod as well as an X axis belt tensioner. It will allow you to print at these layer heights much more accurately if you can adjust the tension correctly.
The kit out of the box makes it almost impossible to get good/correct tension on the belts.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: anet-a6
--- |
thread-7410 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7410 | How To Trace The Line Of A Print With The Nozzle (With No Plastic Printed) | 2018-11-13T21:34:48.807 | # Question
Title: How To Trace The Line Of A Print With The Nozzle (With No Plastic Printed)
I want to calibrate my printer for my new BLTouch (Ender 3 using Marlins 1.1.9), every time I adjust the values in the configuration.h and send it to the printer I end up having to wait for the nozzle and the bed to heat up, it also wastes plastic. Is there a way to take out the values in the code that make the extruder turn without causing any damage. the slicer that I am using is Cura and the print that I want to trace is this calibration crosshair. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
# Answer
Sure. Comment out your E values and the temp set/wait lines:
`...
M109 S245
M190 S120
...
G1 X123.113 Y95.644 E12.81357 F250
G1 X125.613 Y94.214 E13.06364 ; skirt
G1 X128.409 Y93.523 E13.31370 ; skirt
G1 X131.287 Y93.624 E13.56377 ; skirt
G1 X133.471 Y94.259 E13.76129 F250
G1 X133.771 Y94.384 E13.78949 ; skirt
...`
Becomes:
`...
;M109 S245
;M190 S120
...
G1 X123.113 Y95.644 F250 ; E12.81357
G1 X125.613 Y94.214 ; E13.06364 ; skirt
G1 X128.409 Y93.523 ; E13.31370 ; skirt
G1 X131.287 Y93.624 ; E13.56377 ; skirt
G1 X133.471 Y94.259 ; E13.76129 F250
G1 X133.771 Y94.384 ; E13.78949 ; skirt
...`
Now the printer won't wait for any temperatures, and won't dispense any material.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, calibration, bltouch
--- |
thread-7417 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7417 | Is G-code read line by line? | 2018-11-14T15:40:07.400 | # Question
Title: Is G-code read line by line?
I am trying to add the line
> G4 P4000 G1 F4000 E-50
to pause and retract the print in order for the printed line to dry (printing in mid air vertically). Does the above code work or should i skip lines or does it not matter at all?
> G4 P4000
> G1 F4000 E-50
Would the following line do the exact same thing?
> G4 P5000 E-50
# Answer
> 8 votes
Yes, G-code is read line by line. G-code is a numerical control programming language. It basically instructs the machine sequentially line by line to do a specific task. The printer than executes the lines one by one until it reaches the end.
If you instruct the printer to wait (`G4` dwell), it will do the wait/dwell first and than will execute the next command to retract the filament. As such, your examples will not work if you want to retract the filament during the pause, you reversed the process if you want to achieve that.
To add a pause (simple) for e.g. filament changing, you should instruct the head to go to a certain position, extract the filament, and now insert the pause/dwell command. Give yourself enough time to insert and prime the nozzle and go back to the last location to continue printing.
You could insert something like (e.g. in between layer change, before `G1 Zx.xx`):
```
...
G1 X0 Y0 F2000 ; Relocate the print head
G1 F4000 E-50 ; Retract filament
G4 P40000 ; Wait for 40 seconds
G92 E50 ; The new filament should continue at this value
...
G1 Zx.xx
```
Depending on what happens after `G1 Zx.xx`, you may need to set the head back to the location prior to where it was before `G1 X0 Y0 F2000`.
Do note that there are pausing scripts/plugins available for e.g. Ultimaker Cura, and there is also a filament changing command `M600` that can be enabled for certain firmware (if this is your ultimate goal).
Using a post processing plugin of Ultimaker Cura, a pausing script looks like:
```
...
G0 X137.692 Y105
;TIME_ELAPSED:707.873599
;TYPE:CUSTOM;added code by post processing
;script: PauseAtHeight.py
;current z: 5
;current height: 5.0
M83
G1 F300 Z6
G1 F9000 X190 Y190
G1 F300 Z15
M104 S0; standby temperature
M0;Do the actual pause
M109 S200; resume temperature
G1 F300 Z6
G1 F9000 X133.423 Y105
G1 F9000
M82
G92 E911.50045
;LAYER:24
G0 X137.692 Y105 Z5
...
```
Note that `G0` and `G1` are *"move to"* location instructions (albeit through a different way, fast move and linear move respectively). If you look closely, you see that after the pause, the printer returns to the X-Y position where it left prior to the pause (`X137.692 Y105`).
---
*Side note:<br>Some firmware flavors allow buffering, but each statement is executed sequentially.*
# Answer
> 4 votes
This needs to be on two lines like in your second example:
> G4 P4000
> G1 F4000 E-50
See the RepRap Gcode Wiki for more info. https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code
EDIT: if you actually want to retract and THEN pause, reverse it:
> G1 F4000 E-50
> G4 P4000
---
Tags: g-code
--- |
thread-1544 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1544 | Printing an iPhone Case | 2016-07-22T22:14:11.190 | # Question
Title: Printing an iPhone Case
I am trying to 3D print an iPhone case, however, I want it to print standing up. Is this possible to do?
I have a picture of the case in the link below.
# Answer
> 7 votes
Yes this is possible. For an FDM/FFF printer, you'll need to print with supports. I might also recommend printing in PLA to minimize the chance of warping during the print (from experience).
It might also help to slow down the feedrate to ensure smooth surface finish and avoiding delamination on such small layers.
You'll probably see a decrease in the surface quality on the inside due to the printing of support scaffolding depending on the slicing engine you use.
# However
You'll want to pay attention to the strength of the case. If you print the case upright then it will be more susceptible to breaking without post-processing.
# Conclusion
Ultimately, if you can get away with it, it would be better to subtract the star instead of extruding it in the model. Then you can simply print the case back face down on the plate with much better results.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Not sure if this should be an answer or a comment, but not quite enough rep to comment, so... Here's an off the wall suggestion: As an alternate approach, assuming you're using FDM printing, could you print it with the star down on the bed in more than one step?
1. Print only the star.
2. Put suitable material around the star that is similar to the bed or usable as a bed material, possibly filling the voids as well.
3. Either print the rest of the case, hopefully with it adhering to the star, OR, print the rest of the case and use solvent or glue to adhere the star, (this latter step could be done with the star removed and printing directly onto the bed with the rest of the case only), OR, with the first star removed and the foreign support in place, reprint the entire case including the star - which would go into the empty space where the first star was printed and removed. The first star print then just serves to allow accurate placement of the foreign support if you need that.
I've never tried this, so I can't offer assurances. The two step print, with the first star in place and the rest of the case printed after filling the empty space probably won't work if you need a heated bed, as for ABS.
# Answer
> 1 votes
## Support structure & Orientation
Carefully considering this model, It would be wise to print this on the back-plane with support and then post-process the print to prevent the walls separating from the back when dropped. By activating support, the proposed orientation is however quite possible. To reduce the chance to destroy the print, one has to choose the right support material and geometry. In this case, a **soluble support** (PVA) would be best, but choosing a proper support structure like **tree support** originating from an area in front of the case reaching in, for example, generated with Meshmixer is also a very good solution. The orientation that is shown by OP actually has a very nice ability to hold onto the phone from the C-shaped cross-section. However, again this does demand some **post-processing** to strengthen the inter-layer bonding, preventing the case to split into an "upper" and "lower" section when dropped.
## Post processing
Post-processing could take the shape of baking the part in the oven for about an hour to strengthen the inter-layer bonding. For PLA 90 to 100 °C in the oven is common, while ABS is a little higher.
ABS would allow a quick acetone vapor smoothing, which melts the outer layer lines together smoothly and as a result increases the shell stability a little - you have to let it outside to let the soaked in vapor fully evaporate afterward though and you might lose smaller details.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You have a few options. First. I would change the design. Why not make it negative space instead? Else as the other user mentioned, glue the star on later.
Other options are, come up with a modular design so you do not print it as one piece.
From there you can do some more advanced things such as print it with the star up and use HIPS as a support material -- assuming you have a duel extruder
http://reprap.org/wiki/HIPS
You could print it with normal support material, with the star up, and just accept that the left overs will scratch the phone, or spend a lot of time with some hand tools and sand paper.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Another good tip is to add some model supports directly into the model that you can just break off. Like some wings in an X along the corners of the case. So pressure is exerted more evenly across the case as it's being built. Using a big Raft will help too.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Consider printing in other planes - this model would be very suited to be printed at around a 45° angle.
You will need support beneath it, but all visible surfaces should exhibit good quality as well as being more robust than when printed upright due to layer adhesion as pointed out by other answers.
---
Tags: 3d-models, print-quality
--- |
thread-7412 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7412 | Automatic leveling probe offset; adjusting for one side ruins the other | 2018-11-14T01:37:58.177 | # Question
Title: Automatic leveling probe offset; adjusting for one side ruins the other
When I adjust the probe offset to get the proper layer height and adhesion, one side is set right but the other doesn't work. If I decrease the probe offset (say -1.100 to -1.050) the right side seems to print better; if I increase the probe offset (-1.050 to -1.125) the left side will adhere to the plate properly.
Before I added the BLTouch and upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 I was able to print a perimeter square (with a little manual adjustment).
My Printer is the Ender 3 and I am using a glass bed and the model is this centre crosshair
# Answer
I have had exactly the same experiences as you did with a inductive sensor on a Prusa i3 clone. It looks as though the bed leveling is not executed, or the level/mesh tilted. Please do note that automatic bed leveling is ***not magic***, you still need to provide a ***build platform as level (and flat) as possible***. A slate of glass is a good build platform surface as the glass production process ensures that the glass is very flat and easy to level.
What I did to solve the problem is that I re-leveled the bed and send the `M420 S1` command over USB to the printer to enable bed leveling as I was under the impression that it did not use the grid obtained with `G29`.
On my CoreXY I also use a touch sensor (3DTouch, which is a BLTouch clone) like you do, even with that sensor I sometimes see that the automatic level is uneven (one side of the skirt has very thin/see through deposition, while the other side appears normal), this is most probably caused by the sensor accuracy (or an obstruction under the probe needle). There is a way to increase the probing accuracy by using double probing where the second probe is advancing slower to the build platform as can be seen in the Marlin Configuration.h file:
```
// Feedrate (mm/m) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z
// Feedrate (mm/m) for the "accurate" probe of each point
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)
```
For double probing you require to set:
```
// The number of probes to perform at each point.
// Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result.
// Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results.
#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2
```
---
*Side note:<br>From an earlier posting it appears that you are using the `#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER` in the configuration file to set the offset. It is much more convenient to set that through the LCD menu (`Bed Leveling` -\> `Z Probe Offset: -–-`) or send the `M851 Zx.xx` directly over USB or load through a .gcode file from SD card to prevent numerous flashing the firmware with alternative parameters. Make sure that you enable:*
```
#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands
```
*in the Configuration.h file and execute `M500` to store the new setting set by `M851`.*
> 3 votes
# Answer
From the looks of your test print, this is unlikely all or only due to levelling unless the glass plate is abnormally uneven. You may have to check your extrusion (speed, temp, feed) parameters and/or adhesion (clean with aceton and/or prepare with hairspray or glue stck)
> 0 votes
---
Tags: bed-leveling, creality-ender-3, bltouch
--- |
thread-7425 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7425 | Help to reconcile nozzle diameter, deposited line width, and wall thickness in Cura | 2018-11-14T22:07:09.580 | # Question
Title: Help to reconcile nozzle diameter, deposited line width, and wall thickness in Cura
I need help resolving some conflicting logic between the nozzle width and shell thickness--parameters in Cura 16.021--and the physical deposited line width (width on x-y plane).
DEFINITIONS
For clarity, let me define a few terms I'm using:
Nozzle size - nominal diameter of the nozzle / Cura parameter
Nozzle diameter - true diameter of the nozzle
Extrusion diameter - diameter of circular cross-section extrusion upon leaving the nozzle
Deposited line width - width of the rectilinear layer deposited on the build surface **in the x-y plane** (not the z-layer height).
Shell thickness - Cura parameter for part wall thickness
Cura - Cura version 16.021
PROBLEM 1
Physics suggests that for regular continuous flow out of the nozzle the extrusion diameter (cylindrical material extrusion) would be slightly larger than the nozzle diameter, and the deposited line width (rectangular prismatic extrusion) on the x-y plane should be even wider than the extrusion diameter. I'm assuming the deposited line width is equal to the shell thickness as set in Cura. However, I am finding conflicting advice as to whether one should set the shell thickness slightly greater than or slightly less than the nozzle diameter.
In this post on the Ultimaker forum, the moderator seems to suggest that the nozzle size and deposited line width are one and the same.
In this post on StackExchange, the discussion seems to agree with my understanding.
PROBLEM 2
A commonly referenced procedure for calibrating extrusion suggests printing a 25mm cube with an open top and bottom. My understanding is that by printing four walls of a single shell thickness, we should correct the extrusion rate to achieve a deposited line width equal to nozzle diameter (Cura requires the shell thickness to be a multiple of nozzle diameter) . The problem I have with this is, as stated above, I don't understand a physical basis for targeting nozzle size = shell thickness (deposited line width). I'd expect to calibrate the extrusion to something slightly wider than the nozzle diameter.
My printing experience seems to confirm my intuition. If I reduce extrusion rate to achieve shell thickness = nozzle diameter my prints appear visually under-extruded with poor layer adhesion. Calibrating to about 110% of the nozzle size looks about right.
PROBLEM 3
Although Cura constrains shell thickness to be a multiple of nozzle size, it will not slice thin shapes on the x-y plane equal to nozzle size, they need to be slightly wider. I have verified this multiple times by designing a part in SolidWorks with a 0.4mm wall, exporting it to Cura as an STL, and previewing the slices (using a 0.4 mm nozzle size). If I increase the wall thickness in the model to 0.41mm, Cura will slice the wall. This seems to suggest to me that Cura does account for a deposited line width \> nozzle diameter. It calls to question whether the shell thickness is actually a physical dimension for the 3D print or just a parameter for the slicer engine. I have taken it to mean the number of passes around the perimeter in units of nozzle size, similar to other slicers that ask for a shell count.
Thanks in advance to anyone who has put in the time to read this post and kindly share some knowledge.
EDIT 1: My interchanging of terms "width" and "thickness" made it sound like I'm referring to z-layer height. Also, Trish pointed out that "line width" is the better term rather than "layer width" so I have updated this. My post is only concerned with the deposited layer width in the x-y plane--"line width".
# Answer
So, I think I may have found a satisfactory answer. Cura 3.6 includes separate parameters for line width and shell count:
This seems to decouple the line width from the specified nozzle size and target what I believe is a more optimal width (~110% the nozzle diameter). It was the other version of Cura that was driving a lot of confusion with the line width being defined by the nozzle size. This also removes the weirdness of not being able slice lines equal to the line width.
Thanks to all who responded.
> 1 votes
# Answer
There may be die swell, which will depend on the extrusion force, the material type, and the exact temperature within the hot end. This is because the viscosity is highly dependent on those parameters.
As to line width: again extruded temperature, material, ambient temperature, cooling fan coverage all play into how much "sag" takes place before the material hardens. Oh, and X-Y speed of the nozzle, of course.
Further, for the first layer, if the nozzle is nice and close to the bed, the nozzle itself will force the material to spread laterally while limiting the vertical extent.
Personally, I don't think it's worth the effort to create a mathematical model. Spend the 3 cents' worth of electricity, 0.01 cents' worth of material, and 15 minutes of time to calibrate if desired.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing
--- |
thread-7432 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7432 | G4 S20 vs. G4 P2000 | 2018-11-16T10:26:06.903 | # Question
Title: G4 S20 vs. G4 P2000
Given the Marlin Firmware what is the difference between the following lines of code:
> G4 S20
and
> G4 P2000
# Answer
The answer is that ***it depends on the type of firmware*** you are using.
Let us look at the documentation of `G4` to find that `G4` is valid for all the listed firmware types:
> Pause the machine for a period of time.
Furthermore it states that:
> **Parameters**
>
> * Pnnn Time to wait, in milliseconds (In Teacup, P0, wait until all previous moves are finished)
> * Snnn Time to wait, in seconds (Only on Repetier, Marlin, Smoothieware, and RepRapFirmware 1.16 and later)
It clearly shows that the `S` parameter (which defines the pause in seconds) is only supported by a few firmware types. Do note that this documentation may not be up-to-date, so it is best to look into the source code or the users manual of the particular firmware you are using.
---
E.g. if you are using Marlin Firmware, `G4 S20` will pause the machine for 20 seconds while `G4 P2000` will pause the machine for 2000 milliseconds which is 2 seconds. This means that a different time is requested, to have 20 seconds waiting time you could use `G4 P20000`
To answer your question what the ***actual difference*** between the 2 commands is:
* it is **either** 18 seconds of extra waiting time if your firmware supports the `S` parameter, **or**
* a firmware that skips or chokes on the command because it is not supported (that also probably depends on your firmware).
> 6 votes
# Answer
The code `G4` refers to *dwell*. (From what I'm seeing, it can be written as either `G4` or `G04`). `P`is the length of dwell time, usually in milliseconds. The parameter `S` seems to be invalid, because the only inputs are `X` (seconds), `P` (milliseconds), or `U` (undefined). If you have `S20` in your code, it is invalid, whereas `P2000` will cause all axes to remain unmoving for 2 seconds before moving on.
(Note: Not all machines will accept `X` or `U`.)
**EDIT:** This answer is specific to *non-specific* g-code, taken from this *Source*, since the OP did not state any specifics about their firmware type or equipment used.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: g-code
--- |
thread-7436 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7436 | Strategy to stream large gcode file from serial port | 2018-11-16T18:19:05.457 | # Question
Title: Strategy to stream large gcode file from serial port
I'm connecting to a printer that's using **Marlin 1.0.3 dev** firmware through the pyserial Python package.
I want to stream large gcode files into the printer and I guess that the buffer has a limited size. How do I know when the buffer is full, so I can wait until a command is processed to send a new one?
I've tried reading a big file, sending all the commands and checking for the printer responses in another thread. I didn't get an error or something that indicates that the buffer is full. I've also didn't found anything about this in the official docs.
It's my approach correct? Is there something I'm missing?
Some of the code:
```
def check_for_responses():
while(True):
response = printer_connection.serial.readline()
print(response)
async def stream_gcode():
await printer_connection.open_connection('COM7')
Thread(target=check_for_responses).start()
asyncio.sleep(2) # wait to initialize
file = open("test.gcode", 'r')
for line in file:
command= printer_connection.format_command(line)
printer_connection.serial.write(command.encode())
asyncio.new_event_loop().run_until_complete(stream_gcode())
```
# Answer
Well, after some research I found something about Buffering on the RepRap documentation. I didn't see it before.
Works like this:
1. You send a command. An "ok" response it's received immediatly, that means that the command was successsfuly added to the buffer.
2. Then you can send another command. When the buffer is full, the "ok" response will be delayed until a new command it's received.
Some commands, for example **M190: Wait for bed temperature to reach target temp** will cause that the "ok" response will be delayed until the command finish his execution. That means that the printer won't accept more commands in the meantime.
I still have to check how many commands the buffer can save approximately, and if it's convenient to fill it entirely. I guess not, because let's say you want to pause the print. If you added a lot of commands to the buffer, you'll not able to pause it until all of them finished.
This thread on the RepRap forum was also useful.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: marlin
--- |
thread-7435 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7435 | Describing G-code by start and end point versus end only | 2018-11-16T16:26:08.147 | # Question
Title: Describing G-code by start and end point versus end only
Will the two following lines of code behave differently given that the path that they describe is exactly the same (two segments)?
**Option 1** *(describes separate segments giving the start and end point)*:
```
G92 E0
G1 F0 X14.73 Y-30.28 Z0
G1 F3000 X-27.15 Y-18.58 Z0 E2.01
G92 E0
G1 F0 X-27.15 Y-18.58 Z0
G1 F3000 X17.65 Y0.51 Z0 E2.26
```
**Option 2** *(describes end points only)*:
```
G92 E0
G1 F0 X14.73 Y-30.28 Z0
G1 F3000 X-27.15 Y-18.58 Z0 E2.01
G1 F3000 X17.65 Y0.51 Z0 E2.26
```
# Answer
You should never use a feed rate of zero to start a command with. Theoretically, the other way around would work as the feed rate specified in the command is the feed rate at the end of the operation, but that is theoretically; if you look into the Marlin Firmware sources you will find the following C-code for the `G0` and `G1` commands in the function `void gcode_get_destination()`:
```
if (parser.linearval('F') > 0)
feedrate_mm_s = MMM_TO_MMS(parser.value_feedrate());
```
From the first code line you read that the value for the feed rate is only parsed as the value is larger than `0`. As there is no prior code shown or feed rate set, the command will not be executed.
---
Some extra information from G0 & G1: Move describing the usage of the feed rate:
> Most RepRap firmwares do subtle things with feedrates.
>
> ```
> G1 F1500 ; Set feedrate to 1500mm/m
> G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 ;
> ```
>
> Move and extrude In the above example, we first set the feedrate to 1500mm/m, then move to 50mm on X and 25.3mm on Y while extruding 22.4mm of filament between the two points.
>
> ```
> G1 F1500 ; Feedrate 1500mm/m
> G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 F3000 ; Accelerate to 3000mm/m
> ```
> However, in the above example, we set a feedrate of 1500 mm/m, then do the same move, but accelerating to 3000 mm/m. Everything stays synchronized, so extrusion accelerates right along with X and Y movement.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: g-code
--- |
thread-7440 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7440 | What defines the speed at which a motor is retracting and how can it be changed? | 2018-11-17T18:09:04.323 | # Question
Title: What defines the speed at which a motor is retracting and how can it be changed?
Given a Marlin firmware and a line of G-code such as the following:
> G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10
What defines the speed at which the stepper motor associated with the E-value is retracting? It is my understanding that the Feed Rate defines the speed of the movement (in this case 100mm/m) but I am not clear how I could accelerate a retraction?
The reason I am asking is that I am not seeing a swift removal of material as i retract. Could the slow feed rate be the issue? I am using a pellet printer (WASP 3MT) and generating G-code from polylines on Silkworm.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You instruct the printer to move from a certain X-Y position instructed by the previous move, to X=50 and Y=50. While moving at a feedrate of 100 mm/min, it will also retract 10 mm of filament (if the previous extruder distance was 0) during that move. If the movement distance is large, the retraction is slow. If you started from X,Y = 49.99,49.99 it would be very fast.
If you want a fast retraction, first move to a position, and than retract fast, so in separate commands. Do note that we usually do it the other way around: first retract fast and then move, this way there is less oozing of the nozzle.
To sum up, in your G-code command, the speed of retraction depends on the path of travel (the length and speed defined by the feed rate `F`). If it is fast retraction you are after, you should split the command into two separate commands.
# Answer
> -1 votes
It seems like you are particularly talking about your extruder, please correct me if I have misread.
In the command `G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10`:
* `G1` \- move linearly
* `F100` \- Use a feed rate of 100 mm/minute
* `X50 Y50 Z0` \- tells those axes to move to (50, 50, 0) (absolute positioning)
* `E-10` \- tells the extruder to retract 10mm (relative positioning)
If you are not experiencing high enough retraction speed:
* Try increasing the retraction speed in your slicer.
* Try increasing the max acceleration for the E axis using M201 (e.g. `M201 E10000` sets to 10,000 **mm/s**).
* Try increasing the max feed rate for the E axis using M203 (e.g. `M203 E25` sets to 25 **mm/s**).
Notes:
* If you're able to connect to your printer over USB, and you aren't already using an interface to control it, something like Pronterface might make it easier to test retraction speeds.
* **If** this is the correct firmware for your printer, it looks like it is able to save changed values to the EEPROM. They may be using a modified Marlin firmware. If so, EEPROM can be saved with `M500`, loaded with `M501`, and reset with `M502`.
* If your firmware limits what you can set with `M201` and `M203`, you may want to download the firmware and try to edit its maximum accel/feedrate before flashing.
---
Tags: marlin, g-code
--- |
thread-7447 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7447 | Does GEL-LAY needs to stay moist? | 2018-11-18T20:50:05.237 | # Question
Title: Does GEL-LAY needs to stay moist?
POROLAY GEL-LAY is a kind of jelly-like material made by exotic filament producer Kay Parthy / CC Products.
It is a mix of TPE and PVA that is supposed to have a jelly-like feeling. Once printed, you need to let your print soak in water for several days to remove all of the PVA, then what's left should have a jelly-like feeling since the PVA will have left many micro-cavities in the object.
However, my initial tests end up producing prints that feel a bit like jelly when wet, but reverts to a sort of cardboard feeling once dry.
Does this material needs to stay moist to keep the jelly feeling or not?
# Answer
No, GEL-LAY should not be kept moist to stay flexible. It is made from TPE and filled with small PVA particles. It is advised to print less than normal amount of walls and infill so that the PVA can be rinsed out more easily.
If you look at the way the manufacturer rinses the material, you frequently see ultrasonic baths that improve the dissolving of the PVA. Once the PVA is removed, TPE is all that it left, which is elastic. If your print is still hard after drying it means that not all the PVA has dissolved yet, once dry it will become gluey/sticky again like PVA, hence the cardboard structure.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: filament, print-material, tpe, pva
--- |
thread-293 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/293 | E3D Thermistor Alternative | 2016-01-16T10:50:04.393 | # Question
Title: E3D Thermistor Alternative
E3D hotends use a thermistor whose legs are insulated with glass fiber sleeving and clamped down with a screw and washer:
This solution enables the printing of high temperature materials, but it's a bit fragile and after reassembling the hotend a couple of times, the screw will have thoroughly mangled the thermistor's legs and sleeving.
Some knockoff E3D hotends use a (horrible) solution where the thermistor is just loose in its respective hole, and kapton taped to the heater cartridge wires which holds it in place:
This solution seems kind of ad-hoc, and I'm worried about the thermistor coming loose. One advantage is that it can be reassembled arbitrarily often, since just pulling out the heater cartridge also pulls out the thermistor without damaging it. Note that the picture shows PTFE sleeving which restricts the temperature, but you could easily use fibreglass in this situation as well.
Another solution is the stud thermistor:
It screws into the hole that is normally used for the clamping screw. Unfortunately you're limited to around 250C because of the epoxy used in the stud. I've also found that the epoxy fails after a while (regardless of temperature) and the thermistor isn't locked in place any more (it still works, by virtue of being constrained by the heater cartridge wires as in the previous solution but that's not ideal).
Are there any solutions, compatible with genuine E3D hotends, that:
* are not limited in temperature by epoxy or PTFE,
* can withstand being disassembled and reassembled better than the standard fiberglass sleeving,
* is a bit less hokey than a kapton taping the thermistor's wires to the heater cartridge and hoping that holds it in place?
# Answer
> 2 votes
I like the mounting method on my Mk9 extruder: there's a small hole drilled into the heat block, parallel to the heater hole. B3 Innovations sells a thermistor packaged into a small spring. The whole assembly goes in the hole, and a setscrew (gently!) secures it. You could just as well put a bare thermistor into a spring or something similar; it's mainly to protect the thermistor from the setscrew, and from excessive bending.
From your photo, it looks like the same thing would work fine for your hotend.
However you mount it, adding some thermal grease can help conduction from the surroundings.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have now purchased a hot-end block from here, that has a "cartridge style" cylindrical thermistor that fits into a drilled hole of the hot-end block, and is fixed by an additional screw. This system makes maintenance much easier, the thermistor slides in and out without force, and it has a connector to change only thermistor (or unscrew hot-end block without removing cables if your hot-end also has a connector).
I highly recommend this upgrade, if you are using older-style hot-ends, because it makes maintenance much easier.
---
Tags: hotend, thermistor
--- |
thread-5097 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097 | Anet A8 reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor! | 2017-12-10T15:04:39.263 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor!
I accidentally let the print head of my Anet A8 crash into one of 2 clips that are holding a glass sheet onto the hot bed, and suddenly the screen went blank and the printer rebooted, then it started reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor. I tried changing the thermistor, but that didn't have any effect. Also tried swapping the extruder thermistor with the hot bed thermistor, but there was no effect on both. I checked both the connector and the socket of the thermistor for shorts but found none. Any ideas about the reason this is happening?
-Using Skynet3D 2.3.2 on the stock Anet board.
**EDIT**
I tried burning the bootloader and flashing the firmware onto the Anet V1.0 board using an Arduino UNO as an ISP, but that had absolutely no effect.
**EDIT 2**
I measured `R41` located next to the hotend thermistor header and found out it has a resistance of 1.5kΩ, while it should have a resistance of 4.7kΩ, so I suspect this is the main reason behind this high reading. Now the only thing left to figure out is how the resistance of this resistor changed.
I was able to figure out which resistor to measure with the help of this schematic: https://github.com/ralf-e/ANET-3D-Board-V1.0/blob/master/ANET3D\_Board\_Schematic.png
**EDIT 3** I tested `T56` (located near the headers) and `T55` (located near the ATMEGA1284P) for continuity, and found out there's no connection between those, while they should be connected according to the schematics. I also checked the hotbed's terminals `T54` and `T53` and found continuity between them, which means the problem might be in the trace between the thermistor header and input pin of the ATMEGA chip (this trace is VERY thin, so any overcurrent might cut it), or any component in this trace.
# Answer
I had the same issue. Hot-end temperature reading stuck at 209 degrees even with hot-end thermistor disconnected or swapped with bed thermistor on the Anet A8 mainboard.
After ordering and swapping the AtMega1284p (using jtagice3 and hot-air soldering station) and the 4.7 Kohm resistor (which measured 2.06Kohm on the board and 4.7kohm off the board) to no avail, the only component left in the circuit that could cause the failure was the capacitor.
**Swapping the capacitor C47 fixed the stuck reading for me**. I used a 10uF instead of a 15uF capacitor as indicated in the schematic. I do not believe it makes much of a difference, and they are much more common. Make sure the capacitor can withstand at least 10V, but I got a 30V one, because the price was similar.
To any body that runs into this issue, before spending time and money swapping components like I did, **measure the voltage of the node between R41 and C47 with respect to ground**. This is labeled T56 or test point 56. Compare this voltage to T54, T60, T58, and T62 where similar circuits are placed. You should get a voltage of around 5V ( the pull-up voltage) in the functioning circuits, since we are talking about DC voltage, the capacitor should charge up nearly instantly when the the board is powered, and behave as an open-circuit.
In my case, C47 was almost in full short-circuit, and I read a low voltage on T56 ( ~0.5v).
Since the capacitor was in a low impedance failure mode, the 5V supply voltage of the voltage divider circuit was not enough to power it, hence the fixed temperature readings of the hot-end thermistor ADC channel regardless of the thermistor being connected or not.
Good luck!
> 4 votes
# Answer
> and found out it has a resistance of 1.5kΩ, while it should have a resistance of 4.7kΩ, so I suspect this is the main reason behind this high reading. Now the only thing left to figure out is how the resistance of this resistor changed.
You can't measure the resistance of a resistor in circuit - the resistance probably appears to be lower to your multimeter because of some other circuit elements. There's also no reasonable explanation for how a 4.7k resistor could suddenly turn into a 1.5k one. It's highly unlikely this resistor is the cause of your issues.
It is more likely something else is damaged, likely the AtMega1284p microcontroller itself. When your extruder touched the bed clip, perhaps the 12V from the bed shorted through the clip and to the extruder? I would guess that the 12V shorted itself to the thermistor input, which subsequently blew the ESD protection diode on that input. This might explain the high reading and the low apparent resistance of R41.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: extruder, hotend, thermistor, anet-a8
--- |
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