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thread-5748 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5748 | At which point does a delta 3d printer change the G-code in order to work in its non-cartesian design? | 2018-04-03T18:48:05.973 | # Question
Title: At which point does a delta 3d printer change the G-code in order to work in its non-cartesian design?
For example, to make a DIY cartesian 3d printer you **could** use/do the following:
* Create G-code using a program of your choice.
* Load it into Universal G-code Sender (GRBL).
* Pass it into an Arduino with GRBL.
* The arduino can pass the instructions to the drivers through a GRBL arduino uno shield.
* The drivers will control the steppers.
If you want to make a DYI delta 3d printer, which point of this whole process needs to be altered in order for the delta printer to work properly? Is there an existing open source software for delta printers/cncs?
EDIT: This question could be asked about any kind of non-cartesian 3d printer, including Delta, SCARA, Polar, etc.
# Answer
> 5 votes
The short answer is that the handling of the non-cartesian design is done by the motion-control firmware running on the Arduino.
The long answer:
I don't believe GRBL supports non-cartesian designs, and it is not commonly used for printers. It is more often used for mills, routers, or laser machines. 3D printers will typically use a firmware such as Marlin, which supports several printer designs, including Delta machines.
At no point is the g-code itself changed. The motion control firmware running on the Arduino or other controller interprets the g-code and determines which way and when to step each motor to accomplish the motion.
With a simple cartesian machine, commands for the X-axis only relate to the X-axis motor, but for a non-cartesian machine the axis and motors have complex relationships. The firmware must be programmed and configured to control the motors correctly.
The g-code itself is never passed to the drivers. The commands to the driver are simple electrical signals to "enable" (to energize the motor power - even to just hold position), "direction" (which way to rotate the motor shaft), and "step" (which causes the motor to rotate by one step in the selected direction).
# Answer
> 2 votes
Every 3D printer or machine tool that is commanded through G-code must interpret the G-code in terms of the particular mechanism. Even a Cartesian machine in which there is a clear X, Y, and Z axis, each with independent actuators, interprets the G-code and adjusts for the scale factors, considers the current kinetic energy and the implicit changes in the kinetic energy, and constructs a move plan to implement the G-code. This involves considering the velocity limits, the acceleration, the jerk, and possible higher derivatives. This plan is passed to the motor drivers, and the mechanism responds.
A delta mechanism is really the same. The difference is that there is not a distinct X, Y, and Z axis, even though the commands in the G-code are given in Cartesian coordinates.
My second 3D printer is one I designed using standard hot ends and extruders. I'm using the reprap firmware, and haven't adequately studied the kinematics.
My first milling machine, however, was a delta machine with 3 additional degrees of freedom -- a machine style generically called a parallel-kinematics inverted Stewart platform. In my kinematics code, I plan a movement by breaking the Cartesian command into small enough segments that the non-linearity of the 6-axis movement space never exceeds the tiny error of the actuators. I developed a CPU-intensive but effective calibration system that estimates the errors that I introduced when building it, and so the mechanical performance is good enough. The machine itself is a 5'x6'x6' frame of welded steel, so it is pretty dimensionally stable.
A delta 3D printer is simpler because there is no control over the roll, pitch, and yaw of the hot end. Unfortunately, not being able to control also means that you are subject to whatever errors are introduced in the construction.
"Bed-leveling" of a delta printer consists of estimating some of the machine-unique parameters and compensating for their effects: cup, bowl, ripple, and tilt. Applying these adjustments is done in the kinematics code as a further modification of the G-code Cartesian parameters to the leg-space delta mechanism motions.
TL;DR
The G-code is not modified, but the parameters expressed in the G-code are adjusted and interpreted in light of the machine kinematics so that the intention of the G-code can be faithfully followed.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, delta, open-source
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thread-6273 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6273 | See G-code before exporting | 2018-07-02T17:33:27.813 | # Question
Title: See G-code before exporting
When using Slic3r I noticed that `Slice now` and `Export G-Code` do different things. While `Slice now` is nice, it does not show any tool paths etc.
Is there an actual way to generate and visualize the G-code in Slic3r without saving the exported G-Code first? When aligning seams etc., it is quite annoying to always save the file to see a difference because `Slice now` seems to make little difference.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Using Repetier Host V2.1.2 and slicing with Slic3r (or with CuraEngine), there is an "edit Gcode" button under the Print Preview tab. It is located at the top right of the screen. With that button you can access, examine and change the Gcode of the project you are working on.
# Answer
> 0 votes
After you use the Slice Now button (and the slicing progress bar shows completed), select the preview tab. To the right of the window you will see a pair of vertical sliders. Each slider changes the start and finish locations for the filament layers.
You can slide the left one to the bottom, which will "empty" the virtual print bed. Each movement upward will display a succeeding layer, showing the placement of the filament. This ostensibly will present to you alignment information as well as unexpected holes or other failure points.
I don't know of any slicer that lacks a preview. That doesn't mean one does not exist, but why would such a useful feature be omitted?
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Tags: slicing, slic3r
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thread-1085 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1085 | Why does my PLA filament form a spiral shape and clog my extruder? | 2016-05-03T18:08:00.367 | # Question
Title: Why does my PLA filament form a spiral shape and clog my extruder?
I'm using brand new PLA filament and am getting frequent clogs in my extruder.
I've had this problem with 2 different filaments from 2 different vendors.
It will be print just fine, then clog up. It doesn't ever seem to go more than 5 minutes before clogging. When it clogs, and I pull out the filament, it is always twisted in a spiral (helix) shape like a corkscrew. I have put a picture of 2 clogs below.
I have tried using temperature of 220 all the way down to 180 in increments of 5 degrees and seem to get the same result. it prints the base layer GREAT on the 70 degree heated bed. No warping or peeling off. However, after a few layers, it clogs up and stops extruding.
I am using an HIC PRUSA I3 printer with a single extruder head. I've only had the printer for a couple weeks. It had been printing fine with ABS, but the ABS would peel up from the heated bed, so somebody suggested that I use PLA and hairspray. Hairspray is AWESOME !! It sticks really well and removes easily as well (once the bed cools a bit).
Please let me know if you've had the same problem with the extruder just clogging up and twisting the filament into a corkscrew shape.
By the way, pay no attention to the black marks on the green filament below. That's just me marking every half inch or so with a sharpie marker to see if it's still being extruded.
I think I figured out the problem. Now, to figure out a solution... Take a look at the image below. There is a 1 inch tube that goes from the heat element to the heat sink. This 1 inch of tubing is REALLY hot and larger than 1.75mm. So, the filament goes through that tube on its way to the head and gets soft in the tube because the tube is so hot all the way down to the head. When the filament gets hot, it melts and bends and curls which makes it NOT push itself into the heated tip and out onto whatever I'm printing.
The solution would be to find some way to cool this 1 inch shaft between the heat sink and the heated head so that the filament inside of it won't melt.
Any ideas???
Here is a picture of my heat tip. Note the shaft has about 1 inch sticking out of the heater. The top of that (above the white arrow) is inside the heat sink. But 3/4 inches of it are bare and uncovered. There is also no teflon tube inside the metal throat.
# Answer
> 10 votes
The shape you get is quite easy to explain. It's the shape of the lowest energy possible in your situation. Simple but it doesn't explain the issue... or does it?
It does. The filament cannot be put into the extruder as it becomes plugged. This leads us to some obvious explanations. You can read this post.
So how is that possible that there is enough room to form such corkscrew? My bet is you don't have teflon pipe inside the extruder heatsink. So filament goes into the heatsink and everything is ok until the heatsink itself warms up to the temperature when filament becomes soft, then there is no enough force to push the filament out of the nozzle so above the nozzle filament bends and forms the shape of the lowest energy as said.
Options to check:
1. Take your extruder apart. See if there is a teflon pipe. If its length is proper.
2. Check if cooling fan is working well, if it's pushing air to the heatsing but not sucks from the heatsink.
**\[edit\]**
Looking closer to your photos I'm pretty sure you don't have such teflon pipe. Your spiral has flat external (virtual) surface... it looks exactly as it would be pushed into hot pipe with diameter of 4mm.
**\[edit2\]** please take a look on the picture
# Answer
> 2 votes
The distance between heat block and heat sink is too big (3/4 inch, almost 2 cm). In this area your filament is some half melt state, not cooled as in heat sink part, not melted as in heat block part. You should make as small as possible, less then 0.5 cm.
Great source of information about hot ends is video created by Thomas Sanladerer: Build your own 3D Printer: Which hotend to pick!
# Answer
> 2 votes
I've found that this happens on my prints on the first layer when it's a really big layer. If you have the initial fan speed on something really low, and it prints for a long time (ie giant first layer) it will twist up the filament. Thanks for the answers, I was confused too.
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Tags: filament, extruder, prusa-i3, pla
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thread-6306 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6306 | Can 3D printers, such as a TronXY X1, handle 24/7 projects? | 2018-07-06T14:46:16.653 | # Question
Title: Can 3D printers, such as a TronXY X1, handle 24/7 projects?
I have an incoming project and the only 3D printer available to me is the TronXY X1.
So the question is: Can it handle at least four days of continuous load or should I search for an alternate solution?
*I don't want to damage (my only) 3D printer for this project.*
# Answer
I have the same Printer - a TronXY X1, and I feel confident that with a little upgrade here and there, it can handle long prints without problems.
The most needed upgrade is a quality power brick. Mine died after some month. For replacement I have chosen a 12 V/10 A output one of a reputable supplier with warranty and it runs without any warming since.
Then, I did upgrade the hotend itself. The built in hotend can become leaky under long prints. I did fix this by exchanging it for a genuine e3d-v6 lite. Yes, only a lite, because this machine can only print PLA anyways for a lack of a heated bed - and there is little size one can add to the machine's print surface due to design limitations (one can only extend Y and Z to some degree without generating problems).
Tighteners for the X on the Z-axis and the bed are a very good idea to make the printer a little more reliable, resulting in less misprints or lost prints at upper heights due to wobble or layer shift.
Generally, I have printed some quite long prints (several 16 hours, one 28 hours), and with a reliable hotend and good filament feed (in once case the spool got jammed by a pen falling into it), the TronXY X1 did do its work quite good. Mind, that I tend to always print at 0.1 mm layer hight.
I do not know how 4 days of continuous load would work out, but my X1 has some summed up 2 weeks of prints under its belt by now, so... I *think* it can do this, but I would give it a general check (for example inspect if the bed is still settled tight) between prints.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Rather than investing up front in a new power supply, consider printing with the equipment you already have; knowing in advance that the power supply may fail, but proceeding with the confidence that you can replace it if it does.
This approach won’t cost you anything to try. If it fails, it will result in only a brief outage until you replace it. If it doesn’t fail, you saved the cost of a power supply.
> 1 votes
# Answer
The answer is yes, with a little of extra care maintaining your hardware cold as possible, when I started to print I mounted some PC fans where I notice that the heat will be a problem. For my printer I placed one small fan to Z motors and other one pointing to the power source connectors; I could print for 2 weeks easily. I´m using a PC power source, so this power supply has his own fan. Now I've calibrated the Z motors current, so now keeps a low temperature, the power connectors were soldered instead using the loose connectors, so now I'm using a fan for the whole shield just for extra caution.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I know that this is a bit *wishy-washy* but some can, some can't.
The TronXY has a bit of an issue with the power supply to start with. The *power brick* is a (*reportedly*) bit suspect, for long jobs, see my answer to the question, Ramps 1.4 with a power brick.
It could be worth upgrading the power supply to a higher current rated PSU (20 A - 35 A), with an aluminium enclosure, i.e. those PSUs which are marketed as LED power supplies, such as this, Tronxy 3D printer accessoires power supply 240W AC110/220V DC 12V 20A for 3D print DIY kit part on AliExpress.
Then you can add your heatbed (that you refer to in your other question), without worrying.
It all depends on how critical your 24/7 project is. Is it a serious production run or just a hobby-like project that is a bit of a fun endurance test? How important is it that the print run goes without a hitch? Would a power supply failure mid-print be catastrophic or easily shrugged off? Would the delay incurred by trying to find a replacement power brick actually matter that much?
A simple analogy would be driving from Germany to Mauritania across the Western Sahara, with some serious, and urgent medical supplies. You could either either buy a well maintained, and carefully run in, Mercedes, which will most likely last the entire journey and then some, *or* you could buy a clapped out old Lada, with 500000 km on the clock, with the vain hope of getting there. The Mercedes would seem to be the better option.
However, if you are delivering a Dundee cake for an Aunt, which is neither time critical nor particularly important and you aren't even sure that your Aunt will be at home when you get there, then maybe the Lada will suffice.
Into which category does your 24/7 print project fall in? It sounds like the former.
Apart from the power supply, i.e. w.r.t. the stepper motors and hotend, unfortunately, I don't know the answer and can not answer your question.
> 0 votes
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Tags: print-quality, tronxy-x1
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thread-6326 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6326 | Gaps in Cura's Slicing for Monoprice Select Mini V2 | 2018-07-08T16:41:08.080 | # Question
Title: Gaps in Cura's Slicing for Monoprice Select Mini V2
Why does this happen (circled in red), and how can I fix it? It is making my prints come out horrible.
Not shown in the picture, but the option "Coasting" was Enabled:
* Coasting Volume 0.064 mm<sup>3</sup>
* Minimum Volume Before Coasting: 0.8
* Coasting Speed 90%
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# Answer
> 3 votes
If you enable the option "Coasting", the extruder will follow the extrusion path at the end of switching to the next layer or the next section, but will not deposit any material as it uses the build up pressure in the nozzle to deposit the final bits. This shows up in your G-code representation by empty (non-depositing) gaps (in reality, when fine-tuned correctly, will be filled).
*E.g. sliced without "Coasting" enabled:*
*E.g. sliced with "Coasting" enabled:*
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have had a similar thing happen when slicing a large piece that has - in real life - walls of about 2 cm. By scaling it down to 1.5%, this become less than the wall thickness, and the wall was simply omitted by CURA.
In my experience, a model showing gaps *can* have in these locations a thickness less than 1 wall.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing, monoprice-select-mini
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thread-3711 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3711 | Are there many assembly type 3D printers? | 2017-03-11T12:53:23.377 | # Question
Title: Are there many assembly type 3D printers?
I am wondering if anyone here knows of any 3D printers that work by assembling models from parts instead of extruding or setting material.
The closest I have found is the pixelstone but it appears to only be a prototype and I haven't seen or heard of any progress on it in over a year.
There is a similar house printer fastbrick but it is also just a prototype.
There is research papers on rapid prototyping with lego blocks and software for this (brickify), but these don't have machine assembly.
And there are 3D printers that can do conductive filament in the model but none of these seem to do pick and place as well and they still need a human to add the electronics or to change the tool head. (firepick)
So are there any 3D printers that work like pick and place machines and just stick blocks together?
# Answer
> 1 votes
## Yes and no
**Yes**, there are machines, that assemble things from parts. For example, SMT placement equipment & pick-and-place-machines. Almost all electronics are made this way. In fact, a lot of items are made by using Pick-and-Place machines in the final assembly.
On the other hand: **No**, there is no *3D-printer*, that works by *just* being a P&P machine: it simply is not inside the specifications of additive manufacturing to be *just* an assembly machine. That is an *assembly* or *pick and place* machine, no matter if they call it *printing*. It is not.
#### combo machines?
However, I have seen a recent (**2018**) makerfaire video and a talk that was showing a prototype of an E3D toolhead swapper, which - in its idea - would allow to *combine* a 3D printer with a P&P machine. Their idea is to fully automate the manufacturing process, including adding non-printed parts with grabbers or the like.
## 2022 update
Multi-Tool 3D printers based on the E3D-Toolchanger including a pick-and-place are in small-scale use in at least one fabrication shop in their prototyping stage. They also use conductive filaments in conjunction with their setup - but need to compensate for the considerable resistance of conductive filaments.
# Answer
> -3 votes
I've prototyped a design that used beads similar to these http://www.infostir.com/images/plastic-beads-350.jpg on a rod with a heated tip and then you just press them off into the design. But it wasn't too strong and had some pretty specific requirements of the model. Labelled it a failure.
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Tags: 3d-models
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thread-6174 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6174 | Insulate hotend on Makerbot Smart Extruder | 2018-06-13T19:19:04.670 | # Question
Title: Insulate hotend on Makerbot Smart Extruder
Simple question: how do you reinsulate the MakerBot Smart Extruders?
Backstory: I work at the library. We've recently replaced the MakerBot (extruder connection issues followed by software incompatibility) with a Prusa.
As a new hire, I'm obsessed with the 3D printers. I'm trying to make it my mission to get the MakerBot working again, just so we can have two printers running.
It takes quite the request chain to get materials in and I had some plumbing tape on hand, so I tried to wrap it with that, per this thread. It's not going too well because of the housing around the Smart Extruder, which I cannot figure out to remove (easily and/or without voiding the warranty and taking it completely apart).
I imagine even with the cotton + Kapton tape, you'd need better access to the hotend than the housing allows.
Any help is appreciated!
# Answer
> 3 votes
I recently wrapped a LOT of hot PLA around my print head and, as a result, had to remove the kapton tape and the fibreglass insulation that came with it.
I was reluctant to use fibreglass because of the tissue embedding hazard and the lung hazard (especially on what is effectively an indoor appliance) and kapton tape is very hard to find in Australia.
After some research, I wrapped the print head in 100% wool felt that I bought from a fabric store (be very careful, as most craft felt nowadays is either acrylic, polyester or a poly/wool blend) and then bound it all up with teflon thread tape (plumber's thread tape).
Cotton has a scorch temperature of 150 to 200°C, while wool won't scorch until 500 to 600°C, and the teflon tape can handle temperatures between 200 to 300°C.
Did it work? Well I can now put my finger on the outside of the tape after the element has been at 200°C for 10 minutes, and only feel a little warmth. The print head heats up twice as fast, and I can run my massively oversized print cooling fan at 40% rather than the 10% I could use before. There is no odor of anything cooking off either. Success!
# Answer
> 1 votes
Strictly speaking, you do not require the insulation to be there. It is supposed to keep some of the heat contained in the core to allow more heat to be available for the filament to melt (basically higher print speeds and less chance of burning your fingers :) ).
If I go to the Makerbot website and look at the video
Smart Extruder+ - 3D Printer Extruder - 3D Printer PLA Extruder
at 1:37, you'll see that the hot end is wrapped in cotton and Kapton tape. Like the stuff that is cheap and easy to buy:
and that the casing cover is removable, so you should be able to open it to insert new cotton. Why worry about voiding warranty? You can gain a working printer for a few bucks or bite the bullet and buy a new Makerbot Smart Extruder. I guess if you had warranty you could already have it replaced by now.
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Tags: extruder, hotend, makerbot, maintenance, heat-management
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thread-6338 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6338 | Interesting project for a child | 2018-07-09T11:28:59.720 | # Question
Title: Interesting project for a child
A member of our hackspace wants to get their 8- and 11- year old kids<sup>1</sup> excited about 3D-printing and CNC cutting and makering in general. We have a weekly open training where people can design and print/CNC/laser an item of their choice like a dogboned box or a two-piece sword and hilt, or a name tag, or whatever. I need a few ideas prepared so we don't spend half our lesson on Thingiverse or in Fusion (more like a quarter)! I'm not a parent and my youngest friend is probably in their twenties.
What we have:
* a full bed 1200x1800 mm CNC (preferred, because it's loud and fast)
* Prusa mk3
* cheapo 80W 500x300 mm laser
* Fusion 360 based workflow, easy :)
* Arduinos and stuff
Ideas we've had: a minecraft creeper, done as a simple-ish box.
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<sub>1: the (girls) are not interested in my normal kids' goto, which is: swords, shields. They are interested in: minecraft, dragons, horses. \_o\_/</sub>
edit: this is NOT an opinion-gathering post, though there may be more than one "correct" answer. We need specific applications of 3d printing for a young audience. This collection of answers will be useful to evangelize making to a whole new generation!
# Answer
This question is unfortunately, not a good fit for this site, as it stands, for as you say it is opinion based. However, it is great to see that you are getting kids into a relatively new technology (yes, I know it has been around for years, but it is still seen as new to *big media* and the general public).
My answer doesn't provide you with any actual designs, as you asked for. However, just to add an idea or two that I have been thinking about recently, in order to engage kids:
* Have you thought about using 3D printing pens (as side projects to the main feature of the printer)? Although I'm not so sure that the fumes at such close proximity would be that great, unless using PLA. That really would show close up the additive process.
* Also, there is a lot of useful sites to be found on google (which you have probably seen), such as:
* Alternative applications for kids, from Best CAD Software for Kid Creators, that might be worth considering if Fusion 360 doesn't float their Benchy boat:
* Maybe, as all kids seem to have iPhones, or what have you, these days, how about an App for kids upon which they can play with a design, and then print it later? Such an app would probably provide examples for them to get started with. One such app is the Toy Maker by AstroPrint \- although that may require a commercial printer, I'm not sure. However, other such apps for smart phones probably are out there.
As for examples, there are 42 kids toys tagged on Thingiverse, such as:
Also to take from IronEagle's idea, some fidget spinners:
> 1 votes
# Answer
As @fred\_dot\_u mentioned above, keychains are a simple, personalized item to make. In terms of interesting projects, things that I found intriguing when I first encountered 3D printing were objects that could not be made by other means, such as those "geared bearings" (Google: geared bearings 3d print). Given the popularity of figet spinners a while back, they could be an interesting item.
A captive ball in a box, or three joined rings, can also be set up as a 3D print, and could have the same effect, while being easier for the kids to design.
EDIT: Some links to versions of items along the above lines. Thingiverse tends to slowly break links, though, so these might not last:
> 4 votes
# Answer
Our local library makerspace holds summer camp for a limited number of lucky attendees, ages from 12-15 and the curriculum has a segment which appears to match your objective.
In the case of the Launch Pad Camp, the campers will be using OnShape to create a keychain/nametag with text of their choosing. It will be an unremarkable 3mm thick x 35-40 mm wide x 70-80 mm long "plank" with a depressed center (by 1.5mm) and raised text. The mentors of the camp expect to be able to teach these campers how to use the software to perform tasks by rote. I assisted the mentor in the process as she had no idea how to use OnShape. Neither did I, but that never slows me down.
Another aspect of her camp is that it will (or may) include using Scratch
and does include using a Scratch based program called Ozoblocky to interface with Ozobots.
I suggested to her that she could use BlockSCAD to create the 3D objects, as the interface is nearly identical, and in my opinion, very easy to use.
Not surprisingly, BlockSCAD has a series of tutorials available on the YouTube.
The editor for BlockSCAD is browser based removing the requirement to install on every computer.
> 3 votes
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Tags: 3d-design, cnc
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thread-6336 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6336 | Cura slicer, enforce Z move before layer change | 2018-07-09T10:16:53.013 | # Question
Title: Cura slicer, enforce Z move before layer change
I am slicing with Cura and Slic3r and one important thing that I recently took my attention is that cura positions head in start point of the new layer and then lifts the nozzle. That caused my few printouts to fall as they collided with the nozzle.
Slic3r behavior is different: it raises the nozzle in last printed point and then moves to a new layer starting point (which for me is more obvious)
**Is there a way to instruct Cura to lift nozzle before it goes to the starting point of a new layer?** excluding Z-hops.
# Answer
> -1 votes
OK, after going via all the options I found that CURA has a combing mode which reduces retraction and offers another option which is `Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling`.
That solves my problem.
# Answer
> 3 votes
To lift the head to prevent the nozzle to tip over your print you could use an option called `Z hop` in Cura. Just enter \`hop' in the search box on the right side to make those options magically appear (in a recent version of Cura, e.g. version 3.x.x).
Other than `Z hop` there is no default action, or series of commands, per layer to be specified before the start of the layer. There are 2 other ways to circumvent this:
1. The first is saving you G-code to file and open the file in an advanced text editor (e.g. Notepad++). With a (recorded) macro you can find the words `;LAYER:`, which are inserted by Cura before each layer starts, and insert a pre-copied list of commands that set the movement in relative mode, move Z up 2 mm, set into absolute mode again. When the next layer starts the extruder goes to the layer start from a 2 mm rise.
2. Write a plugin for Cura to post-process (`C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura x.x\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts`) the G-code file to inject the code to Z hop before the start of every layer, or a plugin that adds a new option and/or category to the slicer settings sidebar of the GUI.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, slicing
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thread-4975 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4975 | Printing starts well but then it breaks down, Anet A8 | 2017-11-14T19:34:29.083 | # Question
Title: Printing starts well but then it breaks down, Anet A8
I'm printing a cylindrical piece but at any moment it breaks down. I tried it two times, both have break down in different place. I'm using a 1.75 mm PLA filament in my Anet A8. I'm using Cura 2.6.2 to export to a `.gcode` file.
This is the original model:
And this is the result:
Here is the G-code file.
# Answer
The first thought that pops into my mind is insufficient cooling. Consider to either slow down the nozzle speed or to construct a toss-away model nearby. I prefer the toss-away or duplicate model method. It allows the material printed on the first column to cool more effectively while the material on the second column is being deposited.
If the problem persists, add a third column or slow the print speed about 10 mm / second
> 3 votes
# Answer
The answer by fred\_dot\_u is fine for small prints with relative low cost or batch producing, where a single part is needed several times. But if you print something big or unique it's not cost effective. Slowing down the complete print is also not very time efficient.
In Cura there an option called **Mininum layer time**, which addresses this problem:
```
Cooling -> Minimum Layer Time / Minimum Speed
```
This means that it will only slow down when the print distance for a particular layer is short. Giving the material some extra time to harden. Other layers will be printed at normal speed. Increased print time will be limited this way.
For your situation I would advise you to increase the part cooling, if possible, in conjunction with configuring the *Minimum Layer Time* option mentioned above.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: pla, print-quality, ultimaker-cura, anet-a8
--- |
thread-5660 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5660 | Which proximity sensor to use? | 2018-03-21T11:40:05.433 | # Question
Title: Which proximity sensor to use?
I am building a dolly and I am confused as to which proximity sensor to use.
Should I go for M8 or M12 and 5 V or 6-36 V?
What should be the best detecting distance? Should it be 2/4/8 mm. Which one should I select?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Tomas Sanladerer has produced a nice video on this topic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY
@ 7:31 you see an overview of the precision of various sensors, including the ones you mention. It appears that the M12-4 and M18-8 sensors are more accurate than the M8-8.
# Answer
> 1 votes
As always cost will be a factor. I found the M4 sensors to be be just not good enough, they have to be too close, and eventually it's going to catch on your print and damage sensor mounting and/or the hot-end assembly.
The 8mm range sensors seem like a good distance, but you'll need to decide between a wider, heavier but cheaper model or the think, lighter more expensive model.
If your goal is to optimise for speed, go the lighter version.
In terms of sensing accuracy, if your layer height is typically 0.2mm then I don't think there's much point paying for more accuracy.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Duet3D has a very nice overview. It totally depends on your demands. e.g., accuracy, different build surfaces, tolerance. Personly I realy like the piezo. It actually uses your nozzle to 'touch' the bed. So 0 height is absoluty 0. This eliminates the need for Z-offset.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, diy-3d-printer, z-axis, z-probe
--- |
thread-6364 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6364 | How bed leveling is achieved without table screws? | 2018-07-10T19:00:00.340 | # Question
Title: How bed leveling is achieved without table screws?
I have seen printers with table screws and bed leveling sensor and printers that have only bed leveling sensor (such as Prusa).
So my question is how does the bed levelling work when there is only a sensor, and no adjustment screws? What will happen if I totally remove the table from the printer and then re-assemble it? Will the print fail or what?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Prusa uses 9 marker points in the bed that are sensed with an induction sensor to determine the X, Y and Z position. Any deviation for skewness or bed level is compensated through the software. Please do note that the bed is pretty level to begin with (by design).
This is precisely described here, please check the video.
Note that Marlin Firmware (which is basically what drives the Prusa printers) has skewness compensation implemented. This is implemented in the configuration file, and found under header `Bed Skew Compensation`. You basically print a square and measure the diagonals and insert these measurements into the configuration file. Prusa printers do this automatically by using the measurements of the marker points.
---
Tags: z-axis, bed-leveling
--- |
thread-6367 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6367 | 3D Printer makes steps at Y axis (in some cases) | 2018-07-11T04:40:08.457 | # Question
Title: 3D Printer makes steps at Y axis (in some cases)
I have bought the *Tevo Tarantula 3D Printer Kit*.
When I'm printing something that I created (using Cinema 4D), the printer prints it without any problems, but, when I download something from the internet, my Y axis makes steps 1-3 mm per layer and it makes any product unusable at the end.
This is what is does.
It does every single layer, not just randomly. I don't know if I have bad configuration or something like that.
# Answer
When you describe a problem like this, it is best to describe the effect, not what you think is the cause - particularly since others then might mis-read your description.
Each layer being offset in one direction suggests that there is a problem with either the part moving on the bed (unlikely), or in the registration of one axis drifting over time.
Most likely, your Y-axis is skipping steps. It could be several things:
* the axis binding on it's runners
* the drive belt skipping because it is loose
* the drive belt binding because it is too tight
* too fast a print/travel speed
* the print nozzle catching on the print (bed too high, no z-hop)
* not enough drive current to the stepper motor
* stepper motor failing
* belt drive loose on the stepper shaft
A common 'feature' of 3d printing is that different models might emphasise one problem, but a different shape might hide it.
Check that everything is properly tightened, moves freely, and the belts are undamaged - with luck you can find the problem and it's not electrical.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, y-axis
--- |
thread-6329 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6329 | Print quality of Kossel clone for Print in Place models | 2018-07-08T19:29:03.427 | # Question
Title: Print quality of Kossel clone for Print in Place models
My first printer is Delta style Kossel clone and I have bad luck with Print In Place (PIP) models, especially with hinges. I suspect that my printer just can't achieve low enough tolerances to make the hinges work.
Are there any tricks I can employ to get better prints for PIP models?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Delta printers are considered to be able to be accurate printers cause of the limited weight in the head (using Bowden extruder setup). The positioning can be very accurate (limited weight, limited overshooting) and because of the limited amount of weight, the print speed can be increased.
An interesting paper has been written on a comparative study between a Cartesian and a Delta machine. The paper concludes that the Delta style printer produces "a better surface finish". However, I'm a bit skeptical as the images of the Cartesian printed part they have printed are of far less quality I can produce with 2 of my printers. Fact is that Delta machines have no Z-wobble (also called banding) that is a common problem with Prusa i3 style printers for instance.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It is possible that your printer is over-extruding, and this will certainly give less satisfactory results when you try to print models which have internal clearances.
It is also possible that you have some calibration issues which affect orthogonality, x/y/z dimensions or flatness in each axis.
In terms of general improvements, slower and maybe cooler might help - but before jumping in with difficult models, how are your 'standard' print test parts coming out?
---
Tags: print-quality, delta, kossel
--- |
thread-5802 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5802 | QIDI x-one2 : Fan screws not holding filament feeder stepper motor in place | 2018-04-12T17:56:16.760 | # Question
Title: QIDI x-one2 : Fan screws not holding filament feeder stepper motor in place
I noticed a knocking noise one day on my QIDI and things seemed fine at first glance, then 7 hours later my print only had 3 layers. So I figured it was a jam, and I cleaned it out but every now and then I heard the knock again which cause incomplete prints. When I went back to remove the front facing cooling fan I noticed one of the screws that go through the fan to the stepper motor wasn't secure. This was causing the filament guide to rock out of place periodically until it got worse and worse.
I've been trying for hours but the screw just won't "catch" on the stepper motor that feeds the filament into the extruder. The screws aren't stripped because I can take the motor off and screw them directly into it with no problem. It's as if they aren't long enough anymore or that they're bent.
Has anyone else had this problem & found a solution that works consistently?
# Answer
I just had this same problem and my solution was to push the motor as close as I could up to where the screw goes, because they weren’t lined up. I hope that helped.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: extruder, motor
--- |
thread-3472 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3472 | How important is the dimensional accuracy of filament relative to the detail of a print? | 2017-01-26T17:13:26.313 | # Question
Title: How important is the dimensional accuracy of filament relative to the detail of a print?
In this answer user Barafu says,
> Yet I manage to keep my tolerances +- 0.05 mm which is enough for everything but miniature printing.
I have asked for clarification on that answer regarding what is meant by "miniature printing" but in the meantime, I want to ask the general question.
What impact does dimensional accuracy of filament have on final print quality, and why? Does it vary between different filament types?
# Answer
Dimensional accuracy is not as important as dimensional uniformity. I can print with undersized (or oversized) filament, adjusting the flow appropriately, provided the filament has a consistent diameter. When creating filament in-house, without expensive equipment, it is difficult to maintain the same diameter throughout the entire extrusion. It is likely this extrusion diameter (when creating filament, rather than the output of the actual print head) to which Barafu is referring when he mentions his tolerances: +/- 0.05 mm *in diameter*. Which is reasonable.
The "miniature printing" comment likely refers to printing miniature models for tabletop gaming.
If the source filament becomes wider than expected, the output will have overflow, or more material than desired will be deposited, and this will certainly affect the quality of the piece.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Put it simply: they say 1.75 mm with a ± error of 0.05 mm. Which means your flow may vary ±2.9 % while you are printing creating blobs and such.
The smaller the filament tolerance, the more expensive the production costs.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: filament, filament-quality, dimensional-accuracy
--- |
thread-2999 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2999 | Marlin Adjusting feedrate | 2016-10-30T06:40:38.223 | # Question
Title: Marlin Adjusting feedrate
I'm using the Marlin firmware (1.1.0-RC7 - 31 July 2016) for a 3d printer. Currently the printing is not perfect due to slight inaccuracies in movements along the x and y axis. I'm trying to change the feedrate for speed along the xy axis whilst the printer is in operation to make sure the printer stops on time and prints accurately.
I have some code for controlling the feedrate but the problem is that I'm not sure where I am supposed make these adjustments. In the configuration.h file I see this code: (lines 742 and 753 )
```
/*line 742*/ #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60)
/*line 753*/ #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25} // (mm/sec)
```
I'm probably misunderstanding something but it seems like this sets the feedrate to a default value which is the same as the maximum.
If the feedrate changes during printing I'm guessing it would be done in Marlin\_main.cpp but I'm not sure which part it actually changes. Can someone point me in the right direction here?
# Answer
> 3 votes
You can change the *maximum* allowable feedrate in Configuration.h, but the actual feedrate that is used isn't determined by your firmware. The feedrate is specified in the G-Code file. A command like
```
G0 X10.0 Y15.0 Z3.0 F9000
```
indicates a move to (10,15,3) at a feedrate of 9000 mm/min. If F is not specified, the last used feedrate is used.
You just have to provide the appropriate G-code commands with the feedrate you want in them. There's no reason to modify the firmware to get a different feedrate.
# Answer
> 2 votes
It seems like you might be wanting to look at the steps per mm line.
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT
```
This line is where you calibrate the number of steps per mm. To calibrate, mark a point along an axis, then move that axis something like 100 mm. If it didn't move 100 mm exactly, make a change
```
(how far it moved) (how far it should have moved)
------------------ = ------------------------------
(current steps/mm) (new steps/mm) --> find this
```
# Answer
> 1 votes
You have the lines to adjust the feed rate. The first one (line 742) is relevant to the maximum feed rate XY while homing (not during printing). I think this is not an issue in your particular case and you may leave it as it is.
The second one (line 753) is the feed rate while printing for XY. Particularly the numbers in the brackets refers to ( X, Y, Z, E). If your printer is moving it may affect XY more than Z and E. So you may try to adjust the first two numbers.
Due to the very specific situation is impossible to give you a feed rate based on calculation because you are dealing with external accelerations caused by the mobile situation. You will need to try and adjust it until you get right.
Another setting that may also help you to compensate the external acceleration, if any, is the acceleration of those two axes.You should find two lines like these:
```
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1500,1500,50,250}
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1500 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
```
However the acceleration of the axes may impact on the quality of the printing.
---
Tags: marlin, speed
--- |
thread-5623 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5623 | RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6? | 2018-03-12T14:52:47.610 | # Question
Title: RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?
I'm about to build a Prusa i3 dolly. I am confused whether to use RAMPS 1.4 or 1.5 or 1.6.
What is the big difference? Is it only the MOSFETs and the poly-fuses? If that is the case, would it be advisable to upgrade a RAMPS 1.4 board (replacing the MOSFETs, connectors, and fuses)?
# Answer
> 5 votes
The biggest issue with RAMPS 1.4 (and 1.5) is the power connector is prone to melting/burning, this appears to be fixed on 1.6 with the use of screw terminal blocks. I've used RAMPS 1.4 with both 12v and 24v power supplies and never have had any issues with the fuses or the power connector but mine have only come from Ultimachine or RepRapDiscount. A RAMPS 1.4 with power connectors and fuses replaced with those from a reputable dealer (Digikey, Newark, Allied) will likely be fine, you can even remove the power connector and solder the wires directly to the board if you don't need the ability to unplug them.
Whichever you go with, make sure the screws are tight and never tin the wires going into the power connectors.
# Answer
> 5 votes
The drawback of RAMPS 1.5 and 1.6 are that they use SMD polyfuses which are a little more difficult to replace (for some people) than the large fuses from the RAMPS 1.4. However, the fuses of the RAMPS 1.4 are sticking out, then tend to bend once in a while when you work on the board and could therefore become prone to metal fatigue and break.
---
Adding on top of this answer about cable wiring:
For these type of connectors:
please use ferrules on the cable ends for wires that transport high loads/currents and use screw terminals:
For these type of connectors:
please use y-type or fork connectors:
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, electronics, ramps-1.4
--- |
thread-6375 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375 | How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset) | 2018-07-11T20:25:53.417 | # Question
Title: How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)
When I print large prints close to (but not exceeding) the maximum dimensions of the heated build platform on my Anet A8, the brim or skirt or the print itself is printed outside the heated bed, while there is some space left at the opposite sites. It appears as if the print is not in the center.
* Why is the print not centered on the bed?
*It was centered in the slicer before generating the G-code.*
* How can I center the print to make it fit on the heated build platform?
# Answer
When centered in the slicer correctly, without offsets defined in the slicer, the printer is most probably incorrectly configured! Luckily you can do something about that! Basically, you will have to calibrate the printer for a new center.
## Printer origin?
First of all, the firmware determines where your origin of the printer is. This implies that you need to properly set bed dimensions and offset values from the end stop switches in the firmware (usually not necessary out-of-the-box, but important when a newer or different firmware version is uploaded). These offsets determine where the origin of the bed plate is located. For Marlin firmware it is very common (for most printers) to have the origin specified at the front left corner (when facing the printer). From the configuration of Marlin we find the origin is e.g. in the front-left corner. Note that this can be rotated 180 degrees in certain printers, so the aft-right. Also be aware that there are a few printers that have the origin in the center, e.g. Delta's and a few Cartesian printers. Marlin definition (edited snippet) of a common bed layout:
```
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) | R
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
* .(-Xh, -Yh)
```
## How do I find the physical origin of the printer?
This can be tested by instructing the head/nozzle to go to e.g. (0, 0, 15) using a terminal/console or a simple G-code file with a move to that coordinate that you print from SD card (e.g. `G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500`); *note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!*. When this is performed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but this may be different depending on the firmware settings or firmware brand.
Next step is to configure the slicer as such that this coincides with the actual origin. Incorrect slicer settings can cause the slicer to assume the origin is at a different position than your actual position. In Ultimaker Cura, the "Origin at center" is notoriously known for this when the physical origin is not in the center, but in a corner. When the slicer is properly instructed, but the origin is still not at the corner of the build plate (**beware!** in some printers the origin is in the middle of the plate) you might have incorrect endstop to origin offsets.
## Determine the offset first!
To quantify the offset of the center as it is known by the printer software (firmware) it is advised to print a large square that is a few percentage smaller than the maximum size of the bed. E.g. you can create a square hull at e.g. 90 % of the dimensions of the bed (parametric designs are very useful for this purpose, see e.g. this design). There are many things (`.stl` models) to be found on the internet. If it includes a cross, even better as some platforms have a mark in the center of the bed.
*Example of a bed center calibration model*
Once printed, measure the distance from every edge from the build platform to the printed square. If you fail to print the square, please check the level of the platform; **this is also an excellent test for the level of your bed!** The measurements should give you a notion of the offset of the bed. E.g. for the X-axis you measure a distance of 12 mm on the left and 8 mm on the right (when facing the printer) you can easily deduce that the center is (12 - 8)/2 = 2 mm to the right (positive X direction). This implies that the printer manufacturer has done a lousy job by delivering you a printer with an offset bed; better said incorrectly configured in their firmware. Note this is not uncommon!
## How to fix this!
Once you quantified the offset, you want to be sure that your next print prints in the middle of the bed. How to proceed? Basically there are a couple of solutions you can use, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.
1. A simple solution (i.e. if the printer support this) is to adjust the position of the endstops. Alternatively you can print alternate endstop holders to match the position change as measured from the calibration print.
2. Another simple and popular solution is applying an **offset in the slicer**. You could do that in the printer options some of the available slicers. If such options are not available, you could add **G-code commands in the start code** to create the offset (e.g. `G1` X-2 moves to the left and `G92 X0` resets the X origin). Note that this is a quick fix and should be applied wisely. The printer does not know where the actual center is! You merely changed if after the homing sequence. Exchanging `.gcode` with fellow enthusiasts with the same printer may have adverse effects.
A far better solution is to fix the center in the firmware so that the printer knows the **actual** center. This requires some extra effort by uploading firmware (files including configuration settings) to the printer or send G-code commands. The latter option will be discussed first.
3. A prerequisite of this method is that it requires the G-code command `[M206](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes)` to be supported by your firmware; note that not all 3D printer firmware solutions are able to use this G-code command for axes offset definition. E.g. the stock Anet A8 runs a modified Repetier version that does not support `M206`, it would be time to upload a new firmware like e.g. Marlin Firmware making this particular printer safer as the stock firmware does not include thermal runaway protection! See question: "What is Thermal Runaway Protection?". To send G-code commands to a printer you have the option to hook up your computer to the printer over USB and use a 3D printer program that support sending commands to the printer (this is called a terminal; i.e. an interface to the printer). Programs like PronterFace, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, and probably many more have such an interface. A simple alternative that works also is creating a text file (with `.gcode` extension) with the commands on separate lines and executing the "print". The following codes need to be sent: `M206` e.g. `M206 X-2 Y2` (move center left and to the back, note to use integer values, float values are not allowed!) and store this new center with `M500`.
The final, best solution is to set it fixed in the firmware. This requires an upload of a more recent configured version of an applicable firmware. See e.g. question: "How to upload firmware to reprap printer?". Note that there are different methods to upload a firmware to the board, it is best to search the internet for the applicable method for your board.
4. To do that you will have to be comfortable with computer software and tools to build source files and upload binary code to the printer. This depends on the type of firmware you choose and therefore cannot be described for each firmware in detail. Various sources on the internet describe this process. Generally speaking, it requires you to set the bed and offset values/positions correctly. For Marlin Firmware this comes down to changing the settings in the configuration file, this is similar in other firmware software solutions:
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -35 ; used to be -33, so 2 mm shift to left now
#define Y_MIN_POS -8 ; used to be -10, so 2 mm shift to the back
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
> 18 votes
# Answer
As to **why** this happens, particularly with a budget printer the end-stop mountings may not be particularly precisely located, or the moving part may actuate the endstop slightly differently in each build. In my case, replacing the hot end (and thus the whole carriage) gave me an offset of some cm. With this upgrade, it was impossible to retain the stock calibration since the extruder dimensions are quite different.
As to **how to fix it**, the easiest way for me was to modify the 'start g-code'. This fix only applies to the particular slicer, means that what I slice for my A8 won't be centred on the work maker-club Prusa, but doesn't need me to mess about with firmware or apply a per-model update.
After the Z-home operation, I already have a pre-extrude step. Prior to this, I set the actual position of what I want my homed point to be, using `G92`
```
M82 ; absolute extrusion mode
G28 ; home all
G92 X17 Y-12 ; re-define origin
G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position
```
> 3 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, calibration, build-plate, knowledgebase, homing
--- |
thread-6394 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6394 | How to calculate linear Y rod length for a larger replacement bed? | 2018-07-12T21:17:30.247 | # Question
Title: How to calculate linear Y rod length for a larger replacement bed?
I have an Anet A8 which I want to convert to an aluminium frame printer like the AM8 (rebuild of Anet A8 parts):
This should give a much more stiff frame with respect to the acrylic frame to aid in a better print quality.
Since the bed (220 x 220 mm) has a slight warp, I want to use a larger build platform (200 mm x 300 mm) I have laying around. My plan is to use the 300 mm in the Y direction.
* Knowing the maximum outer distance of the current Y bearings to be 105 mm, is that too short for such a large bed?
* How do I calculate the length of the Y axis rods? (especially if you take another distance than 105 mm)
# Answer
Basically, your setup is the following:
The overhang of the bed, assuming the bearings are in the center, equals `(300-105)/2 = 97.5 mm` on each side. So the distance from the leftmost bearing face (when bed is at `y = 0 mm`) to the center of the Y rods assembly equals `300 - 97.5 = 202.5 mm`. Knowing this distance for the other side of the center to the right when `y = 300 mm` is the same, the minimum length of the rod will therefore be `2 x 202.5 = 405 mm` which equals the addition of the bed length and the outer bearing distance `300 + 105 = 405 mm`.
Please note this excludes extra length for e.g. a limit switch, and some extra space around the bed. Basically the extra length of the bed `300 - 220 = 80 mm` needs to attributed to each side of the bed, so `40 mm` on each side extra.
For a 220 x 220 mm bed, the minimum length would be `2 x (220 - (220 - 105)/2) = 325 mm`. When I measure the rods between the acrylic flanges it measures about `365 mm`, about `40 mm` extra for clearance around the bed (`20 mm` on each side).
The overhang for the 300 mm bed is not that much, and a construction under the heated plate will be used to fasten the bed at the corners, as long as that construction is not too flimsy, the current distance will be alright. For other distances you should change the value of 105 in the formulas above. E.g. for an outer flange distance for the bearings of 120 mm, you would require rods of at least 420 mm.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, diy-3d-printer, anet-a8, build-plate, y-axis
--- |
thread-6396 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6396 | Adjusting Z-axis (Monoprice Maker Select) | 2018-07-13T22:17:48.610 | # Question
Title: Adjusting Z-axis (Monoprice Maker Select)
Have a Monoprice Maker Select v2 and have recently changed to an Anycubic Ultrabase glass plate. In Cura, the model I am printing is in the middle, as shown here:
but the printer puts it around 2/3 of the way up in the Y dimension:
Further investigation: I now believe the platform screws were too far down at one point, so that the platform could not move all the way forward, somehow making the printer think the platform is further back than it actually is. The original and the new platforms are the same size, 22x22 cm.
(When I run the Cura "bed leveling wizard", the stops are a bit from the edge at the front, and off the platform at the back, consistent with the theory in the previous paragraph.)
Even more further investigation: I have now dis-attached the Y-axis belt and moved it back and forth with no improvement. Also, the platform screws hit a couple of bolts at the back, which prevent it from moving all the way back (i.e. the extruder head forward), which seems to be the reason it is not getting to the front of the platform. I think I will have to increase the Z position first.
In the above picture, the platform is much higher than the origin position. This is the \`back left' corner. If I lower the platform to the nozzle origin, it cannot move all the way back (i.e. nozzle cannot reach front). The screws came with the plate (and are different from the ones I had before). With the platform at the height shown in the picture, it moves freely all the way.
So the question now is: how do I change the Z-axis "origin" position? Have tried to manually adjust and then select "set origin" on the printer menu, but it did not have any noticeable effect. When selecting "home" it goes back to the old position.
# Answer
I sawed off about 2 mm from the (bed) screw in the photo so it wouldn't catch on the screws of the Y endstop. It now works as before.
---
<sub> *If somebody has a more cerebral solution I will gladly \`accept' it.* </sub>
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, prusa-i3, wanhao, monoprice-maker-select
--- |
thread-4554 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4554 | How to make an object hold water | 2017-08-27T07:38:36.850 | # Question
Title: How to make an object hold water
I made a tea bowl, but it leaked when making it in PLA...
What are the key points to keep in mind when designing and printing an object that is intended to hold water using an FDM printer?
# Answer
> 5 votes
I've found that a double-walled base seems to give better results than trying to make the base very thick. Any imperfections in the print, or cracking caused by removing the print can lead to leaks - but if there is layer/infill/layer, the result seems to turn out better for me.
Vase mode can be effective (although won't be easy to combine with the above unless you slice your model in several parts), and I've had success whilst using 100% vase mode for vases to hold water. This demonstrates that a single wall thickness is sufficient to achieve a watertight print.
# Answer
> 4 votes
When designing the object, you should make sure your object is completely enclosed (obviously). When printing, try increasing the print temperature so that the layers stick to each other well. The most important thing is the print temperature, because if the layers don't adhere to each other well, you will get a leak. The wall thickness of the object can be thin, as long as it isn't so thin that it has too little strength to hold anything.
Some tips:
* Printing in vase mode can save loads of time, otherwise the printer wastes time doing each layer separately.
* Your nozzle should be 0.4 mm and up, otherwise the print will take forever.
---
Tags: 3d-design, fdm, water-resistance
--- |
thread-6402 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6402 | Anet A8 Hotbed Not Heating Correctly | 2018-07-14T21:21:06.707 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 Hotbed Not Heating Correctly
For my Anet A8 I replaced the stock power supply 12V/20A with a eTopxizu 12V/30A, plus I added a fused 250V/10A power switch and mosfet. The issue that I am having involves the hotbed, it has no issue heating up, but it doesn't heat up past 94 degrees Celsius when I try to print using ABS (not issues so far when printing with PLA). When I originally installed the new power supply, I had the mosfet and the motherboard powered separately, but I tried powering them both with the same wire and the problem persisted. I measured the voltage coming out of the power supply and it reads 12.44V, the voltage going into the mosfet reads 12.28V, coming out of the mosfet 10.58V, and the voltage reading on the hotbed is 10.25V. If you need pictures of my wiring or anything let me know and I will update the post.
# Answer
> 2 votes
That is actually not uncommon to happen for the Anet heated beds, many users report this. Mine was able to reach about 100 ℃ out of the box (took a while to get there), but not beyond.
For the bed to reach higher temperatures you would need to make some adjustments. You should at least insulate the bottom of the heated bed with cotton or cork to reduce the heat dissipation by half. Note to speed up heating to e.g. 110 ℃, I often insulate the top of the plate with a removable piece of cotton or cork to remove it just before leveling and printing starts. Furthermore, replace the heated bed connector and solder the bed power wires directly to the pins at the back of the connector. That connector is **NOT** rated for the amount of current requested by the heat bed! E.g. due to the moving bed the connector jitters which leads to sparks; you see many pictures of burned or brown connectors on the internet. While you do that please consider replacing the wires to the heat bed also to some proper gauge silicone wire, AWG 14 should be good enough.
---
**WARNING!**
Last thing to mention of prime importance is that the stock firmware of the Anet printers has **NO** thermal runaway protection! I.e. if your hot end thermistor would fall out of the nozzle block, the firmware would detect the temperature drop and will keep sending current even if it does not measure a temperature rise. This leads to an overheated nozzle and is definitely considered to be a fire hazard!
---
**Edit**:
The answers to question How to increase bed temperature over 103 degrees are of great value to this question.
---
Tags: heated-bed
--- |
thread-6377 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6377 | Printing with colorfabb XT fails after several successful layers | 2018-07-11T20:34:13.913 | # Question
Title: Printing with colorfabb XT fails after several successful layers
I'm printing parts for a HEVO (HyperCube Evolution CoreXY), using Colorfabb XT filament. After several successful prints. I'm having a lot of failed prints. They start off pretty well but after ~15 layers the filament starts to string and blob.
Printer details
```
Model: RepRap i3
Extruder: E3D 1.75 all metal hotend.
Nozzle: .4
Print temp: 260°C (max. recommended).
```
Steps I took to troubleshoot
1. First I thought my nozzle was clogged. But it's not I can push the filament by hand without issues.
2. Lowered the speed to 35 mm/s.
3. Disabled retraction / disabled part cooling.
4. increased the max temp with 10 % to ensure the filament flow
Printed parts that fail:
*Note: the two parts on the left are printed in one job*
UPDATE 26/07 Dit a few more prints with PETG to eliminate the moisture problem. Same results.
# Answer
This looks a lot like **under extrusion caused by heat creep**.
Heat creep is when the nozzle temperature 'creeps' up through the filament and makes it melt (a bit) and form a blob (or just widen enough to get stuck) a centimeter or two before the nozzle.
The characteristic is usually that everything works perfectly well for some quite fix amount of time, then there is severe under extrusion.
Solutions:
* Lower the temperature (yes, as then the heat won't creep as much!)
* Add a fan cooling down the cooling part of the print head
I have the same print head as you it seems (E3D 1.75 all metal) and I had heat creep when I changed the fan to a less noisy one (but also less effective).
> 9 votes
# Answer
This suggestion may not apply in your specific case (you seem to have looked closely at the problem, and it doesn't really fit the apparent time-dependence) but you might have an issue with the extrusion drive. If your hobbed drive isn't tight on the stepper motor then the 'push' might not be enough to match the force you've tested by hand. This explains one way that the extruder can be more sensitive to small performance variations than you would normally expect (heat build up somehow contributing to those variations).
> 5 votes
# Answer
I have a possible cause for my problems. XT is sensitive to moisture (hydrolytical stability) When I extruded 20mm filament manually, the string felt a bit rough. When I looked closer very tiny bubbels where visible. I baked the filament at 60°C for 2 hours.
The baked filament allowed me to print a perfect model.
But after one print the filament is again affected by moisture so I need to build a dry-box and do some more tests before I come to a conclusion.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, filament, diy-3d-printer, print-material, colorfabb-xt
--- |
thread-6410 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6410 | Are parentheses allowed within a G-code comment? | 2018-07-16T19:07:06.840 | # Question
Title: Are parentheses allowed within a G-code comment?
I am wondering if this piece of G-code is valid:
```
G0 (Some comment (Its G0 command)) Y10 Z-5
```
I have tested this on my Chinese CNC machine and it strips out the comment and works flawlessly.
The machine processes this as `G0Y10Z-5` which seems like the correct approach to me.
I have however never seen such comment in real CNC practise. It would be nice if anyone is able to test it out on their CNC/3D Printer.
Many G-code simulators on the internet fail to process such a line in their parser so it makes me confused. I haven't found anything about it on RepRap Wiki or even Google.
# Answer
> 4 votes
It looks like comments inside parentheses are not allowed in numerous parsers (ie. Marlin). This seems to be true for most of the 3D printers. Classical CNC milling machines use parentheses without problems.
It should work on Prusa printers as stated in their Wiki. Unfortunately there are no words about nesting of the comments.
I have however found a comment on cnczone.com forums regarding the nesting of comments within parentheses.
> Printable characters and white space inside parentheses is a comment. A left parenthesis always starts a comment. The comment ends at the first right parenthesis found thereafter.
>
> Once a left parenthesis is placed on a line, a matching right parenthesis must appear before the end of the line.
>
> Comments may not be nested; it is an error if a left parenthesis is found after the start of a comment and before the end of the comment.
>
> Here is an example of a line containing a comment: `G80 M5 (stop motion)`
Source: cnczone.com
# Answer
> 12 votes
This is not universally valid G-code, and how it is handled depends on the implementation. You can use this style of comment on *some* machines, but not all.
The way parsing used to be implemented in Marlin (a very common 3D printer firmware), it would work fine unless the comment string included a X, Y, Z, E or F character. The parser simply looks for the first occurrence of X/Y/Z/E/F and then tries to parse the bit of text appearing after that character into a number. If the string cannot be parsed as a number, it defaults to 0 instead. For example,
```
G0 (Some comment containing the character Y) Y10 Z-5
```
would be interpreted as `G0 Y0 Z-5` and not as `G0 Y10 Z-5`, because ") " (the string appearing after the first occurrence of "Y") does not parse to any valid number. Your example happens to work fine because the comment string doesn't contain any special characters.
Marlin does support end-of-line comments, which should start with a semicolon and continue until the end of the line.
This is how it used to work in older Marlin versions. Newer Marlin versions have a more advanced parser, but it still would not play well with these parentheses-style comments. It is best to avoid them, as compatibility is not guaranteed.
---
Tags: g-code, cnc
--- |
thread-4632 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4632 | Tevo Tarantula I3 firmware | 2017-09-16T14:40:53.563 | # Question
Title: Tevo Tarantula I3 firmware
I've been trying to get something decent printed for days but nothing works! I have a Tarantula Tevo i3 `MKS Base V1.4` and have done a lot of trial & plenty of error. Still I am puzzled to get good prints.
1. What is the stock firmware for a single extruder regular/large bed firmware & how to configure a large bed (if needed to be configured)?
2. Which is the auto bed leveling firmware?
I need help sorting out what's out there. I did not manage to configure a large bed with a single extruder. But did manage to restore firmware with Marlin-2.0.x
1. So the Tevo 3D Printing Store firmware link directs to a dropbox \- only dual extruders - both regular & large bed,
2. There is JimBrown's GitHub MarlinTarantula \- Optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform,
3. JoelLisenby's GitHub TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware.
I followed this, YouTube - Setting Up Auto Bed Leveling (Tevo Tarantula), for setting up the auto bed leveling sensor but it just got me messed-up even more, see Tevo Tarantula incorrectly auto leveling of bed. I'm just now in the process of trying to manually level the bed and I broke the hot end holder plastic plate...
---
**EDIT**: The sensor I'm using is SN04-N Inductive Proximity Sensor - 5mm
# Answer
## Answer for **"2)"**:
The default firmware seems to be Repetier. It also includes Bed leveling (see documentation): https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/z-probing/
Marlin includes the Auto Bed Leveling feature too. You need to enable it by editing the Configuration.h file.
Bed size settings are there aswell.
"stylesuxx" made a video on how to get Marlin onto the Tevo:
or you can take a look at their website: http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#configuration.h
Autoleveling can be enabeled as well in this file. There is a good video from Thomas Sanladerer on Mesh Bed Leveling:
If you want some help with auto bed leveling it would be nice if you can include what kind of sensor you want to use (inductive, capacitive, microswitch...) and what your prefered type of bed leveling is (mesh 3x3, just z-leveling)...
> 1 votes
# Answer
Tevo Tarantula i3 owners on FaceBook is where I got marlin 2.0. Other things I tried didn't work, but this is working fine if you just want to add auto bed leveling using the standard SN04 sensor.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: marlin, heated-bed, firmware, tevo-tarantula
--- |
thread-6407 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6407 | What printer should I consider for printing microfluidic channels? | 2018-07-16T00:29:13.920 | # Question
Title: What printer should I consider for printing microfluidic channels?
I am looking to purchase a 3D printer for the fabrication of microfluidics.
I am looking for a printer that can print channels with less than 200 µm cross-sections, preferably, can print optically transparent and biocompatible material, and costs less than $10,000.
Any ideas/recommendations? Could be any printer type (i.e. SLA, FDM, PolyJet).
# Answer
*"What Printer?"* Let's look at your options:
**FDM** is the cheapest route into 3D printing, and may be cheap enough to buy just as a learning tool, as many of the concepts of 3D printing are fairly universal. It will not however likely have high enough dimensional accuracy for consistent 200 µm holes, and parts are not usually considered water tight (They may be most of the time, but pinholes are somewhat common).
**BinderJet** binder jet is the cheaper of the options for printing with powder, where basically glue is deposited onto layers of powder to solidify a part. I have personally used one to create a sand mould to cast metal into without having to create a positive with which to make the mould (ie lost wax casting). It can also be used to print ceramics or metals that are then fired in an oven into a more solid part. In general the dimensional accuracy is going to depend on not only the precision of the glue deposition, but the input powder as well. It may be possible, but I've never seen a water tight part come out of a binder jet.
**SLM** (SLS, DMLS, generally any metal printer with a laser (even sometimes an electron beam)) Can print quite high quality parts, but a 200 µm hole is pushing into the realm of difficult to achieve. Metal printers produce parts with a fairly rough surface (compared to a machined part), which is dependent on a lot of things, but primarily the input powder size distribution. Typical SLM printers use powder anywhere from 20 - 60 µm in diameter. With very small holes, you'll have to begin wondering about the likelihood that a hole will be sealed at some point by the random surface roughness exceeding the diameter of the hole. This also translates into a path with a lot of resistance, so pushing a fluid through it will require a lot of pressure. Again, I'm not in any sort of biological field, but I'm aware Titanium is pretty bio-compatible, and that is a \*fairly commonly printed alloy (the current list of alloys that are pretty easy / standard to print isn't terribly long). Finally price: you can't afford it. I work with a relatively small (though somewhat high end) SLM tool at work, and I believe the final cost went up somewhere in the neighborhood of 500k.
**SLA** will likely be your best option. I don't have any experience with bio-compatibility (I'm a metallurgist), but there are many uv curing resin systems out there that are made for SLA printing. This is also likely the only type of system that can meet your dimensional requirements (water tight, small features, clear material, etc.) as well as your price target. Nothing can replace doing the research on your own, but this would be my choice. As for which SLA... (Note I'm fairly biased in this opinion) I'd look into Formlabs and possibly in particular their clear dental resin.
**\*PolyJet** I don't know much about this one. It seems like a cross between SLA and FDM, but it seems likely to be out due to cost.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, 3d-design, print-material, desktop-printer
--- |
thread-6419 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6419 | Where is a reputable place to download Ultimaker Cura? | 2018-07-17T23:22:59.773 | # Question
Title: Where is a reputable place to download Ultimaker Cura?
I noticed that my version of Ultimaker Cura was out of date, so I tried to go to their website and download a new version. For whatever reason, I could not get the download link to work properly in Firefox with a slew of security extensions.
Where are reputable mirrors for Cura?
Download.Cnet.com and Sourceforge came up as sources, but years ago they both went to the darkside (SourceForge: HowToGeek, thecomputerpeeps). I don't see anything else that looks even remotely reputable in the search results.
I did some analysis, and it appears that the drop down and form don't work correctly if you select "I don't want to share any personal information", leading me to think this is web page bug.
# Answer
The answer to your question is: **"From the application developer itself!"**.
Below is the explanation how you can (directly) download Ultimaker Cura from the most reputable source: Ultimaker.com
---
## Regular download
When clicking the link to download of the Cura application download button from the Ultimaker website you are presented with a pop-up GUI that asks you if you want to share where you are using the program for. When you select the required field and press download, the download starts. If this doesn't work, a direct download approach can be used.
## Direct download
If the regular download method fails, or you do not get the pop-up GUI, you can use the direct link for Ultimaker Cura from the developer's website:
https://download.ultimaker.com/cura/Ultimaker\_Cura-4.1.0-win64.exe
This link can be found at the download directory at the website:
https://download.ultimaker.com/current/
This web directory overview also shows all previous releases and installers for other platforms.
As of version 3.6.0, the download does not appear to be in the list, this link will show an overview: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list Do note that the latter link will show the pop-up.
*As of version 4.1, the web directory overview link will serve a 404.*
### Github
The Ultimaker Cura Project has a Github, where they offer the current and previous editions under:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags
> 14 votes
# Answer
Cura is a software tool developed by Ultimaker for 3D printers. There is a downloadable page for this tool: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list. There is no restriction to download it.
I'm using Firefox on all my PC's and it can be downloaded with no problems, even if I'm using Windows XP, the main PC works at full speed with 3D models.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-6418 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6418 | Anet A8 display on MKS Gen L board | 2018-07-17T22:50:06.720 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 display on MKS Gen L board
So I have read this question, Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L.
That looked so easy, so I rewired the connectors and switched the VCC and GND pins. In the Marlin firmware I disabled the `MKS GEN L` display and enabled the `ZONESTAR_LCD` and `ULTRA_LCD`.
Yet when I run the printer, I only get the fully white rectangles. Is there anything else I have to do?
I have a compilation warnings now, because the `ZONESTAR_LCD` redefines some of the pins that `ULTRA_LCD` sets, but I guess that is ok. Could it be caused by still including the `U8glib` library? Do I have to also remove some constant regarding this?
# Answer
Ok guys I got it! It really was just what is the answer in the other question (Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L)!
**My problem was:** I used jumper cables and some duct tape to hold them together ... and **the only issue was, that I didn't insert it enough**. I got mad today and just pushed them really hard more into the AUX2 connector and it suddenly works!
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8
--- |
thread-6432 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6432 | Z-axis comes down and presses the bed while printing | 2018-07-19T18:44:00.893 | # Question
Title: Z-axis comes down and presses the bed while printing
I am using a Prusa i3 with Marlin Firmware.
All the components of my 3D printer working fine. I have a problem with my Z-axis, it comes down and get pressed by the bed. I have tried adjusting the endstop switch and calibrated the Z-axis still Z-axis comes down while printing.
**edit**: *\- additional information -*
*While printing the first layer is printing okay, but while filling the inner layer and continue with the next layers the nozzle actually drags and pressed the print.*
Can anyone explain why this happens?
# Answer
> 4 votes
When the head/nozzle assembly runs into the bed, you need to watch out for:
* Check for **Endstop** problems:
+ Is the **switch properly wired up**?
+ Is the **switch working**?
+ Is the **switch mounted firmly** to the frame and correctly adjusted?
* **Level the bed as level as possible**; what is meant here is that the bed needs to be parallel to the X-axis, not bubble level. This ensures that the nozzle is exactly at the same distance away at every point on the build platform. You achieve this by setting the Z endstop as such that the nozzle is close to build platform with platform screws screwed in for some distance. When the endstop is firmly attached, home the printer through the menu of the printer, try adjusting the screws such that the level is everywhere the same (in between changing the location of the nozzle carriage to set the level, home the machine once in a while). Use a piece of paper for the correct distance; a slight resistance felt when dragging the paper is sufficient. Please note that it makes a difference when you level the bed cold or hot, hot is preferred.
* **Slicer settings**; Be sure that your slicer doesn't introduce a Z offset.
---
**EDIT**:
*With respect to the additional information, you really need to check the level of the bed, level with a hot bed and a hot nozzle (e.g. PLA temperatures of respectively 60 °C/190 °C). Furthermore, be sure that you get enough adhesion. Use (sanded and cleaned) tape, hairspray, glue stick or whatever trick you can find to get the filament to stick well enough that it won't be picked up by the nozzle and dragged around. For me personally printing directly on the aluminium bed with 3DLAC (sort of super strong hairspray) or on glass works best, I'm not a fan of tape.*
---
Tags: prusa-i3, marlin, z-axis, endstop
--- |
thread-6438 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6438 | Which outdoor filaments for unheated beds? | 2018-07-21T10:19:19.183 | # Question
Title: Which outdoor filaments for unheated beds?
I am searching for 3D printing filaments, that are suitable for outdoor purposes, but printable on unheated beds.
I will mostly use it for sensor node enclosures (should withstand temperature up to 50°C/120°F) and car accessories (70°C/160°F).
If it requires annealing, it should have low shrinkage, since I will be printing parts that will fit into each other.
# Answer
Considering your temperature requirements PETG could be used on unheated beds.
High operational temperatures for your products requires filaments with a high glass transition temperature (the point where the plastic becomes soft). A filament with a high glass transition temperature causes filament to shrink considerably when the bed is not heated (as when the bed it heated, the plastic is soft and withstands the shrinkage stresses better). Basically, your requirements are in contradiction. You should be using a heated bed and ABS, or a high temperature resistant filament like a co-polyester.
*Example of filament comparison*
If a heated bed is no option, PETG is you most likely candidate for printing as many filament manufacturing brands say that a heated bed is optional. My personal experience is that PETG very much likes a heated bed, getting it to stick at lower temperatures is more difficult.
> 4 votes
# Answer
PETG is good for your project. You can also print transparent ABS on unheated bed with ABS juice.I tried transparent ABS in outside environment and it work fine.I live in India where outdoor temperature reach to 45C in summer.It is easy to print small parts.ABS juice may or may not work with large parts depending on your ambient room temperature.Ambient room temp should be above 30C for ABS on unheated bed.I suggest you to use a enclosure for printer if you are in cold area.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: filament, filament-choice
--- |
thread-6427 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6427 | Nozzle heats up past the setpoint and increases | 2018-07-19T06:02:46.303 | # Question
Title: Nozzle heats up past the setpoint and increases
I made a few successful prints since I got my CR-10 two weeks ago and I didn't run into any major trouble. The printer is new.
Today I set it to "preheat" mode while I was preparing the SD card with the settings being 210°C for the nozzle and 60°C for the bed. When I wanted to start the print I noticed that the temperature showed as "actual temperature" on the printer's screen showed 233°C and it was going up steadily while the "requested" temperature was still 210°C.
Thiking it might be a mis-manipulation on my part I powered it down for a few minutes (I got scared by the high-temp) and then powered it back on. I then immediately requested the print to start. The CR-10 heated up to the proper value, started printing and kept heating the nozzle. I stopped it at 217°C.
I looked for an answer on the internet but all I could find is people having trouble with the nozzle not heating at all ...
# Answer
> 2 votes
This is not an easy one to solve, the firmware of the printer should be keeping the printer at a certain temperature depending on the temperature setting and the current value. If the firmware is not able to keep the temperature at the requested level, but goes beyond that level, that could be considered "strange". As it measures the temperature (and reports it on your display) it must know that it is over the limit and thus should not power the hotend.
In this process there are a few possible candidates for you to look at:
* Check for a faulty MOSFET (sort of an electronic switch) on your controller board (is it leaking current to the hotend?).
* Check and or update the current settings for the PID values (settings for the control loop of the hotend). The PID values control the overshoot of the temperature. E.g. is this is very large overshoot? When incorrectly configured the temperature can get higher, but normally should never increase to infinity, are you sure it keeps rising? The determination of the new values is called PID tuning. Important commands (that need to be send over a USB connected printer with a 3D printer terminal application like Repetier Host, OctoPrint or Pronterface):
+ The M503 G-code command shows the current settings (somewhere in the heap of all settings).
+ The M303 G-code command can determine the values.
* Reflash the firmware
* Replace the printer controller board
You could replace the thermistor and the heater cartridge (just to be sure, most definitely not the problem, but they are really cheap to replace). The thermistor works as it reports the temperature, and the heater element doesn't get powered by itself.
As suggested below **the most likely candidate for your problem is the MOSFET**. These are pretty easy to replace (depending on your board) or replaceable by an external MOSFET module (if you happen to have one lying around).
# Answer
> -1 votes
A similar condition occurred in my 3D printer. I solved the same. I checked all my connection and I came to know that I connected the thermistor of the extruder in the wrong port. So just check the connection of your thermistor.
---
Actually my 3D printer circuit board frequently failed because of over current. I then added a multimeter in series with my power supply and the load, also a voltmeter across the voltage regulator. I then corrected every motor driver DRV8825 to a reference voltage of 0.6 V so that the maximum current supplied to each of the motor will be less than 1 A. All these made my circuit checked ok. Then I uploaded the G-code, but I couldn't print because my extruder gets heated about 280 °C and got reset and suddenly shut down the extruder supply. This continues to happen.
Then I reinstalled the Marlin firmware and I also changed the port of my thermistor. Now my 3D printer is ok and prints nicely. I also faced another problem while I gave the print command - it showed that the extruder and bed had started heating but it actually was not heating. So I reinstalled the firmware again and this fixed it. Now my 3D printer works OK. You just try for these steps:
1. Check the connection.
2. Reinstall the firmware.
3. Try manually preheat the extruder, and just see whether it heats to infinity.
These are my working experience please try for these, I think it will help you. Just don't leave it you will get the solution. Keep on trying.
---
Tags: nozzle, troubleshooting, creality-cr-10
--- |
thread-6448 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6448 | Prints to one side | 2018-07-22T08:40:43.570 | # Question
Title: Prints to one side
I use Cura for creating the G-code files for my (2 1/2 year old) Prusa i3.
I have to put the prints in the corner furthest from the X-Y-Z origin symbol as the machine prints in the middle of the bed. How do I remove this offset?
# Answer
Not being able to see your settings, or your G-code, it is difficult to say. If it is slicer settings related, a common mistake is that the "origin at center" option is active. You should remove the tick mark at "origin at center" in the printer settings of the printer profile you use in Ultimaker Cura. Your origin is not in the center, it is left-front.
Another possibility is that the offset of your printer origin is way off. To check that you should connect the printer over USB and use programs as Repetier host, Pronterface, etc. to instruct the printer to go to (0,0,0) and see where the head ends up. You can also do this by printing a G-code file with homing code (`G28`) and a movement instruction (`G1 X0 Y0 Z1 F1500`). If the head moves to the left front, you know the printer is correctly setup, and you should look at the slicer.
E.g. when `M503` is send in a terminal to the printer over USB, amongst the output you can find:
```
...
Recv: echo:Home offset (mm)
Recv: echo: M206 X0.00 Y2.00 Z0.00
...
```
When the X and Y values are high, this can also cause the printer to have a large offset.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: calibration
--- |
thread-6452 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6452 | Replicator+ Experimental Extruder Filament Slipping Error | 2018-07-23T03:32:06.820 | # Question
Title: Replicator+ Experimental Extruder Filament Slipping Error
I'm experimenting with MakerBot's new "Experimental Extruder" which essentially opens their software (MakerBot Print) to change traditionally "behind-the-scenes" settings like retract rate/distance, nozzle diameter, etc.
I am currently attempting to print with the following conditions:
* 0.8mm nozzle (brass)
* 0.6mm layer height
* 2 shells
* 5% infill
* 212 °C-215 °C extruder temperature
* The part is pretty much all an outer shell (see image)
I know that the results of testing the Experimental Extruder with a larger nozzle often required a lower extrusion temperature and the retract rate/distance to be increased. While testing the Experimental Extruder, personally, I found success increasing the retract distance to 0.850mm.
I know that this issue can be resolved by adjusting the extruder profile, but I'm continually running into issues with self-resolving "Filament Slip" errors which inevitably result in "Filament Jam" errors. So, I'm obviously not making adjustments to the correct settings.
Here's the PrintMode file for reference:
```
{
"version": "0.1.0",
"name": "TBM0115 Draft 0.8mm Nozzle 0.6mm LH",
"settings": {
"brimsModelOffset": 0.02,
"doBrims": true,
"doRaft": false,
"extruderProfiles>0>defaultTemperature": 215,
"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionProfiles>bridges>feedrate": 50,
"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionProfiles>floorSurfaceFills>fanSpeed": 0.2,
"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionProfiles>floorSurfaceFills>feedrate": 50,
"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionProfiles>roofSurfaceFills>feedrate": 60,
"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionVolumeMultiplier": 1,
"extruderProfiles>0>nozzleDiameter": 0.8,
"floorThickness": 1.2,
"layerHeight": 0.6,
"maxSparseFillThickness": 0.4,
"modelFillProfiles>sparse>density": 0.05,
"modelFillProfiles>sparse>pattern": "linear",
"extruderProfiles>0>retractDistance": 0.9,
"extruderProfiles>0>restartExtraDistance": 0.15,
"doFixedShellStart": false,
"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionProfiles>outlines>feedrate": 30,
"numberOfBrims": 3,
"numberOfInternalBrims": 3
}
}
```
# Answer
> 5 votes
<sub>As the comment section doesn't allow to use too many characters, I've converted the comment into a proper answer.</sub>
In the question is stated that:
> ... results of testing the Experimental Extruder with a larger nozzle often required a lower extrusion temperature...
This is in contradiction with expectations. When the filament feed rate or volume increases, generally a higher temperature is required to heat up the filament because the resident time of the filament in the heatbreak and nozzle decreases.
As the filament heat up time is shortened by the increased feed rate you should either:
* **increase** the temperature to get the filament center to also heat up. In fact, all your problems could be related to not heating up the filament too fast (filament jam or slip). When the center of the filament is not soft enough, it will be harder to push through the nozzle, hence the slip and the clogging, or
* **decrease** the print speed, decreasing the print speed will increase the filament resident time.
As an example, a nozzle/layer height combo of respectively 0.4/0.3 lays down 4 mm³ per 100 mm, a 0.8/0.6 combo delivers about 30 mm³ for that same distance! This is a lot of heat that is dissipated and needs to be replenished. A reduction of print speed by a factor of 7.5 (30/4) will also address the increase in heat up time.
---
Tags: print-quality, makerbot
--- |
thread-6437 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6437 | Positioning Extruders after Tool change : Marlin 1.1.6 | 2018-07-21T10:13:02.250 | # Question
Title: Positioning Extruders after Tool change : Marlin 1.1.6
I'm currently working on a project which uses two extruders. One for making an impression in a powder and other one to dispose a liquid in to the impression made by the first extruder.
I'm currently manually writing gcode for the purpose, and have some doubts about gcodes and setting up a second extruder. I've once configured a dual extruder system, but it uses old marlin and current one has a variety of dual extruder system, so confused about which one to choose.
```
Firmware : Marlin 1.1.6
Machine : custom made
Board : Ramps 1.4
```
configuration file : Configuarion
Dual extruder setup: two nozzles with separate stepper motor for each nozzle. For the sake of simplicity let's say something like this
Which category does this one go?? By reading marlin documentation it doesn't belong to any special category (???)
I only changed following in FW,
```
#define EXTRUDERS 2
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 5
```
I tested by sending T0 and T1 to select extruders and extruding them
Do I have to change anything else??
This is the test gcode:
```
G28 ;home
T0 ;select extruder 1
G0 X20 ;move to X 20
G92 E0 ;set current position of extruder as 0
G1 E10 ;extrude 10 mm
G92 E0 ;set current position of extruder as 0
G1 E-10 ;retract 10 mm
T1 ;select extruder 2
G92 E0 ;set current position of extruder as 0
G1 E5 ;extrude 5 mm
G4 P500 ;give a delay of 500 ms before next move
T0
G0 X 30
G92 E0
G1 E10
G92 E0
G1 E-10
T1
G92 E0
G1 E5
G4 P500
T0
G0 X 40
G92 E0
G1 E10
G92 E0
G1 E-10
T1
G92 E0
G1 E5
G4 P500
T0
G0 X 50
G92 E0
G1 E10
G92 E0
G1 E-10
T1
G92 E0
G1 E5
G4 P500
T0
G0 X 60
G92 E0
G1 E10
G92 E0
G1 E-10
T1
G92 E0
G1 E5
G4 P500
T0
G0 X70
G92 E0
G1 E10
G92 E0
G1 E-10
T1
G92 E0
G1 E5
G4 P500
T0
G0 X70
G92 E0
G1 E10
G92 E0
G1 E-10
T1
G92 E0
G1 E5
G4 P500
T0
G0 X80
G92 E0
G1 E10
G92 E0
G1 E-10
T1
G92 E0
G1 E5
G4 P500
```
What it does is:
1. After homing, move to given position
2. Activate extruder 1 and extrude some(make impression)
3. then activating extruder 2 and extrude
4. move to next position and repeate
What I actually want is:
1. After homing, move to given position
2. Activate extruder 1 and extrude some (make impression)
3. then activating extruder 2
4. move extruder 2 to the position where extruder 1 extruded material
5. Extrude material (by extruder 2)
6. Move to next position and repeat
one way to achieve this is add an additional code after enabling extruder 2
eg:
```
T0
G0 X 20
G92 E0
G1 E10
G92 E0
G1 E-10
T1
G0 X15 ; if X offset of E2 from E1 is 5mm, assuming no Y offset
G92 E0
G1 E5
G4 P500
T0
G0 X 30
G92 E0
G1 E10
G92 E0
G1 E-10
T1
G0 X25
G92 E0
G1 E5
G4 P500
```
In plastic extrusion this is normally done by setting offset in Slic3r.
Is there any other way to do this, position E22 to the position of E1. Is there any specific G/Mcode for it?? There's a provision to set offset in Marlin. But this is what it says in marlin documentation
**"Z hotend offset only available with DUAL\_X\_CARRIAGE or SWITCHING\_NOZZLE."**
Does it work with normal dual extruders.?(Does mine come under any two system mentioned above?)
# Answer
Interesting project your are working on.
> Does it work with normal dual extruders.?(Does mine come under any two system mentioned above?)
The hotend/extruder you mentioned above is a E3D Chimera like system. And it is not suited for your application because you cannot lower/lift the hotends independently from each other.
examples of these configurations
* DUAL\_X\_CARRIAGE:
+ look at BCN3D sigmax dual extruder
* SWITCHING\_NOZZLE:
+ look at ultimaker 3 mechanism for lowering/switching the active hotend.
The above systems aren't well documentend and will be hard to make. I advice you to look into an interesting blog post from E3D about a tool changer. It is opensource, well documented so you're be able to create one yourself with tool heads for your application. A spade to create patterns in the powder. And a liquid tool to fill the patterns.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, dual-nozzle
--- |
thread-5754 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5754 | Problem with print bed height on Creality Ender 4 | 2018-04-04T19:12:13.373 | # Question
Title: Problem with print bed height on Creality Ender 4
I am a novice to 3D printing and have encountered an issue that I cannot seem to solve. Hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction.
I have a Creality Ender 4 that I purchased a few months ago and up until about 4 weeks ago, it worked great. I had moved it from its original place and in doing so, something became amiss in the firmware as it would no longer heat up the print bed either manually or by sending print commands via USB. The SD card slots would also give errors when trying to print from an SD card. So, after doing some research, I ended up flashing the firmware in hopes that it would reset any of the hiccups I was having.
This both did, and did not, work. I tried MK4Duo, but apparently there was no support for my auto bed leveler and the bed was coming up and hitting the nozzle tip when I tried to print. I switched and uploaded Marlin 1.1.8 which seems to have solved the non-functionality of the auto leveler, but it has caused a new problem that I just can't solve.
Now, when I try to initiate a print, the bed will not raise high enough. It stops, either when I set Z to home, or try to print, at about one quarter of one inch from the tip of the nozzle. Of course, at this point when the print starts, the extruded filament just comes out in mid-air like toothpaste and curls up all over the bed. I can manually push the bed higher to the point it needs to start at, but it still drops too low when I try to print.
I am comfortable enough in using Arduino to try to correct the problem in the firmware (if it is a firmware problem), but I'm just not sure where I need to look or what I need to adjust. If someone would be kind enough to assist me in tracking down some possible places to look, or what might be causing this, I would be extremely grateful! I want to be able to print again!
# Answer
Moving a printer would most likely affect the hardware rather that the software. Unless you have tinkered with the software over USB or loaded an unknown G-code file over SD card that has embedded G-code commands that change your settings.
The most likely solution is that the printer or parts of the printer shifted as such that the printer is not aligned anymore as it used to be. Re-calibrating the machine should fix that for you.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, z-probe, bed-leveling, creality-ender-4
--- |
thread-3372 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3372 | Why do I have problems trying to get Slic3r to load a config file? | 2017-01-09T23:41:19.193 | # Question
Title: Why do I have problems trying to get Slic3r to load a config file?
I decided to fire up my 3D Printer again after a while. I have new PCs, so I had to download Slic3r fresh, so I got the latest version (1.2.9). Then I went and found my old config file. It's really old, from 2013!
And Slic3r did not load it when I told it to, and consequently, when Octoprint was telling my Printrbot LC (custom) to print my things off Thingiverse, it was not in the bed, and the x axis skipped a few nubs, as would happen when you tell it it's too far away.
I recall having to double and triple check Slic3r to make sure that it actually loaded the configuration I spent time crafting and honing. However, it's obviously been 3-4 years since I last played with this stuff, and this is a very low level feature that should have been fixed at Day 0 or 1.
I presume that I'm doing something wrong. Do I need to stand on 1 leg and hold my mouth just right? I don't even know how I could screw it up...
**Update**
I changed from "Simple" mode to "Advanced" mode, and the config imported fine. Though, I don't think it was my most recent config. C'est la software!
# Answer
I changed from "Simple" mode to "Advanced" mode, and the config imported fine. Though, I don't think it was my most recent config. C'est la software!
Also, I switched to Cura after this.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: slicing, slic3r, octoprint
--- |
thread-6409 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6409 | Why does MakerBot software shows holes in the wall of a 3d model? | 2018-07-16T13:43:05.273 | # Question
Title: Why does MakerBot software shows holes in the wall of a 3d model?
I made a simple extrude on a sketch in Fusion 360:
But what MakerBot software shows me in the preview is
Can someone explain how to make it print a smooth wall? Mesh of the model also seems to be okay. Configuration is in the high preset.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I guess you are referring to the corner of the part facing you in the first figure, and the sliced corner on the left in the second figure and not the white lines on the wall facing you. This latter effect is called Moiré or moiré pattern which is an optical illusion created by interference.
This appears to be a slicer error or a rendering error, the walls are not finished. Furthermore from your sparse question it is noteworthy to say that you have sliced the model on a raft.
Why not print the model, it will start a raft and when you come to the part it will clearly show whether it is a slicing or a rendering problem!
If it is a rendering problem, keep continuing printing, if not, stop the print and download a most recent version of any other free available slicer tool. The most commonly used free slicer tools are Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r. Setup a printer profile and select and modify material and slicing properties to create a new G-code file for you to print. You can now compare the rendering of used new tool to your current rendering and print the model to see if the part now prints well.
---
Tags: 3d-models, makerbot, makerware
--- |
thread-6413 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6413 | Where is the line between "inspiration" and copy and derivative? | 2018-07-16T22:56:30.507 | # Question
Title: Where is the line between "inspiration" and copy and derivative?
Scenario: I'm cruising Thingiverse, and I find the awesomest thing. I NEED THIS IN MY LIFE. I download it, print it, and for whatever reason, it doesn't work quite right. OK, no big deal, I'll just download the source because the maker was so kind, modify it ever so slightly, and I will have the most awesomest thing evar!
Several hours later, I realized that I could have designed it from scratch in a software that is way more user friendly, deterministic, simpler, etc.
And then I **do** redesign it. From scratch. Maybe taking a measurement or two from the thing, or something related to the thing. And I refine it, and it turns out better than the original was.
Did I make a new thing? Did I only draw inspiration from the previous thing? Did I make a derivative work? Using Thingiverse's terminology, did I remix it?
I'm looking for some canonical guidelines to refer to for the US. Thingiverse can be an example, but god answers should not be limited to Thingiverse, nor my specific example.
I ran into this issue while trying to print out a case for a Raspberry Pi Zero. I'm not done redesigning it, but I've been wondering how I could share it on Thingiverse, and if any restrictions from the original model's licensing might affect me when I post my thing.
# Answer
I should start by saying that I am not a lawyer. I have been both the complainant and defendant in patent cases, and have had the role of observing copyright compliance for a performing arts organization. With that in mind, the following is my own opinion and information.
---
Ultimately, there is no simple answer to your question. It would depend on the case law that applies to 3D printed objects, which is not very clear. You are venturing into Copyright law, which is very different than Patent law.
For example, if someone had a patent on "A Raspberry PI case with a \<describe a novel, special, functional feature\>", and you made a case with that feature, you would be in infringement. It wouldn't matter if the case looked like the original, or was completely different. If it included that patented invention, you would be more likely to lose if challenged in court. The one thing about patent court prosecutions is that it is really rare that anyone actually "wins". The cost to put forward a case is very high, and usually someone runs out of money (sometimes even the "good guy") before a decision is reached.
Copyright is much harder and softer at the same time. Copyright can relate to the design feel of an object -- such as rounded vs. square, or using a trash can vs recycle bin icon. Prosecuting a copyright violation of this kind would require that the aggrieved rights holder demonstrate that the design was copied, or at least derived in an unpermitted way, from the original work. This is often more a matter of opinion than law, which is why the lawyers matter, as well as the judge and potential jury.
Technically, you are not free to do whatever you wish in the privacy of your own home. You are much less like to be detected and then prosecuted, and the penalties would be lower, but you are just as much in violation if you make one for your own use or sell them by the millions.
The best way to handle it, if you are prepared for possible adverse reaction from the original designer, is to ask them for permission. You can say ask for clearance to use, such as by saying:
> > I loved your object \<thing\> on Thingiverse. I plan to \<put in your plans here -- make a few for me and my friends -- sell further varieties online -- whatever\>. Although I didn't copy your design, I would like to acknowledge that I saw your design before doing my own. How shall I do that?
Your next steps will depend on how they respond. Most likely, they will either give you free leave to do as you wish, or they will ask for something.
This happens a great deal in music, and expensive and acromonious problems have developed over who actually composed a particular guitar riff. You can pick up the "Stairway to Heaven" case here. If you are doing this commercially, it is better to negotiate ahead of time. If you are putting your object back on Thingiverse for sharing, I'd just identify it as derivative an get on with life.
> 1 votes
# Answer
When you remix, either by modifying the existing CAD files (STL or sCAD or whatever), or by rebuilding essentially the same item from scratch, that **is** a remix and subject to whatever restrictions the original author put on his work.
So the critical issue so far as copyright is concerned is whether the output is a clear copy or remix. No different from taking someone's novel and rewriting it using Notepad++ and LaTeX instead of the original Microsoft World.
Now, when remix or reuse is allowed by the originator, it is still incumbent upon you to provide proper attribution, just as you would provide footnotes and bibliography so as to avoid plagiarism in a research paper.
All that said, you are free to do whatever you wish in "the privacy of your own home" (IANAL and laws vary by location, but the chance that the copyright holder will track you down because you have a widget in your bedroom are nil). You can't publish or sell, of course w/o permission.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design
--- |
thread-6471 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6471 | RAMPS PLUS 2 and E1 socket problem (K200 Delta, but related to the PCB , not printer) | 2018-07-26T20:40:18.700 | # Question
Title: RAMPS PLUS 2 and E1 socket problem (K200 Delta, but related to the PCB , not printer)
Total 3D printing newbie here, apologies in advance if my terminology is wrong.
I have a dual head K200 delta printer with a heated bed which I put together 8 months ago, but gave up due to frustration of the following error in Repetier:
```
temp sensor defect marked defect
Error:Printer set into dry run mode until restart!
```
I've tried again today, and all 3 thermistors (and the spare) work fine, but socket E1 on the BT7200 V1.8.26 RAMPS PLUS 2 is giving me -20 °C readings no matter which thermistor I put in.
Even though I’ve tried to tell it there’s only *one* extruder (in Printer Settings), the display right at the bottom of Repetier still thinks there’s *two*.
Today I've emailed the seller and the company I bought it *through*, to see if they can help.
In the meantime - is there any way to make Repetier believe that I only have one extruder, or change things so that I can use the heated bed socket for the other extruder instead and just try to make due without the heatbed for now?
Hope you can help.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Repetier reads configuration from the printer when a connection is established, so as long as it gets info about 2 heads it will display it.
The best approach will be to disable heatbed or hotend directly in the firmware and reflash the printer. You could also swap pins on the board.
When you decide to reflash the firmware, you could check with producer if they have suitable one or use Marlin (this is a configuration guide).
---
Tags: ramps-1.4, delta, thermistor
--- |
thread-6470 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6470 | What prints can I do to test/calibrate my printer for precision? | 2018-07-26T19:58:14.087 | # Question
Title: What prints can I do to test/calibrate my printer for precision?
I specifically want to test
* calibration
* tolerances
* precision
* accuracy
I'm having trouble with Print in Place models and I'm trying to find out if there's something I can do to improve my print quality.
The printer I am using is a Kossel clone, specifically a FLSUN QQ and assume FDM printing.
# Answer
> 4 votes
**Any print you make can be considered a test print!** But, specific test prints are easily found on the internet and lend themselves better for specific tasks. In order to improve your printer / print quality, you need to follow a meticulous series of tests and record the parameters you use to slice the model. Each test should be broken down into several print process parameters (and recorded) and tested for their effects (e.g. speed and temperature).
---
A general accepted strategy is to calibrate the extrusion process first and that look into the general accuracy.
## Filament deposition calibration
An important aspect of printing is deposition of just enough filament (if you deposit too much the lines become wider, and so are the dimensions). To calibrate the extruder deposition of filament you can easily heat up the hot end, mark the filament with respect to a certain reference point and extrude e.g. 100 mm. Now measure the filament mark again with respect to the reference point to verify you actually extruded that same demanded amount.
## Accuracy
For general accuracy printing of 20x20x20 mm cubes is usually fine. Note that the print accuracy is generally determined by the printer (construction) itself, but can be influenced by print speed. Large speeds in combination with a large mass of the printer head can lead to positioning inaccuracies (like overshoot). That said, you should also look into the printer itself. Does it have play? Are the belts tight enough, but not over-tightened? Is the bed skew, or are XYZ perpendicular?
This cube is frequently used to calibrate the dimensions:
<sub>*Please do note that the poster of this picture probably produced a dimensional accurate print, but still faces under extrusion (as seen from the gaps between the lines)*</sub>
If dimensions seem to be off reasonably, e.g. more than 0.2 mm (depending on the printer construction) you could change the amount of steps per mm in the firmware. Do note that the steps per mm is mechanically determined by the belt and pulleys.
## More tests?
Even more tests can done to make specific filament adjustments. E.g. "temperature towers" can be printed to test the optimal parameters for filament flow and / or bridging (printing in air between two parts), or overhang (unsupported parts of the print). But, these last tests are not specifically designed for the issues you mentioned.
## Tolerance test
Once you have calibrated the printer to the ability of yourself and to the capacity of the printer itself you could try to print a dimensional printing tolerance test. Such tests are usually constructed by cylinder shaped (or diabolic shaped) objects in a housing that is slightly larger that the shape.
# Answer
> 2 votes
This is a fairly open ended subject, but the different calibration/test models can be broken down into a few different groups. Although there are a few common 'standards', as soon as you get to looking at a specific parameter, you will need to look for something that is a good match for your problem (not everything on thingiverse is really 'useful), and work out how to use it for your adjustments. Ultimately, the specific model you're working on is the best test - and it may also be that this model is not optimal in some way.
Here is a print from my own test model which shows the slicer not handling my model very well, partly because the model doesn't respect the filament dimensions. It also shows how a variety of print details can be captured in a small (20 min) print.
## Basic Calibration
This is a step that you might be tempted to skip on a non-diy printer, since it mainly focuses on the construction. The basic 20mm calibration cube (just a square) can be used to test that your printer is dimensionally accurate, and is also one way to check your extruder steps/mm (extrusion is variable, x/y steps generally only change when the belt skips). You can also use bigger shapes if you suspect that there are drive problems, and bed leveling might come into this group too, where you could use a one or two layer print.
## Test Parts
These are small parts that might once have been considered hard to print, but now seem to be a standard reference for a 'good' print. Most people who have been printing for a while have a collection of benchie and marvin prints. You might use these to quickly test a new filament, although the benchie is borderline large.
## Detail calibration
Depending what you want to focus on, there will be different things you can use. Temperature calibration towers, overhang and bridging tests, ripple tests (for acceleration), fan tests, etc. This is an area where finding a 'good' test part can be hard. You would want to make sure that the previous two classes of test show good all round performance (or have identified a specific problem) first, before trying this sort of test.
For the print-in-place example, you might need to check extrusion/ooze/coasting, as well as checking linearity and orthogonality (it's no use if a circular part turns out to be more like a diamond with rounded corners). You also need to make sure your first layer is good, without a rim or warping.
## Torture tests
I put this in a group on it's own because it may not be as useful for tuning a printer as some of the others. This is a little bit more about showing off how good your printer is tuned - and is the origin of the benchie and marvin type models, just with the difficulty turned up a notch or two. Some print-in-place models might fit into this category.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The best place to start looking is to go to Thingiverse and search on 'benchmark'. There are a great many models there intended to test various aspects of printing. In fact you could search for example 'calibration benchmark' or 'calibration test' and get more specific examples.
Actually, here is a collection I just made today of the benchmarks I thought most promising. Disclaimer: I haven't tried them yet!
---
Tags: print-quality, fdm, calibration
--- |
thread-6479 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6479 | 3D printing filament resistant to steam | 2018-07-27T07:55:59.653 | # Question
Title: 3D printing filament resistant to steam
I need to replace the lid of my water kettle and am searching for a filament, that is suitable for this purpose. The requirements are:
1. Stable at 100°C (212°F)
2. Resistant to steam/moisture
3. Food-safe
Has anyone experimented with this or similar purposes?
# Answer
Referring to the table provided in 0scar's answer, the key challenge with high temperature materials is the gap between the glass transition temperature (bed temperature) and the extruder temperature.
Polycarbonate for example is listed as usable up to 121°C, printing on a bed at 80-120°C, but requiring an extruder temperature of 260-310°C. This extruder temperature is potentially going to challenge the mechanical, thermal and measurement properties of a printer.
In this application, you don't strictly require 100°C operation, so Nylon (80-95°C) and ABS (98°C) might be worth trying. Even if one side of the part is at this temperature, immersed in steam, the opposite side is exposed to air and convection cooling. Providing there is sufficient thermal insulation and internal rigidity, the upper shell of the part is likely to support it. However, if the inner face does start to flow it may take some time before a problem is apparent.
So long as the material is not *soluble*, absorbing moisture may not be a major issue.
When it comes to being food-safe, this is a huge can of worms, and you're really looking to investigate 'how much of a risk' rather than get a go/no-go answer.
> 6 votes
# Answer
There are few materials that go up to that temperature and beyond.
A very nice generic overview is given by Simplify3d:
*This figure shows an overview of many of the used materials in 3D printing*
When looking closely, and without pointing to specific brands (to avoid a commercial posting), your best chances for appropriate filaments for your application is to look at Nylon, Polycarbonate (do not consider Polypropylene; that is very difficult to print) or (not mentioned in the overview as they are more recent filaments) Co-Polyester polymers.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I recommend PEEK if you are able to print around 400 °C.
From Wikipedia - Polyether ether ketone
---
As requested in comments, here is the setup I use to print small PEEK parts:
* Hyrel3D Engine, Standard Resolution (ESR): $2500 list
* Hyrel3D MK1-450 print head for 1.75mm filaments between 300 °C and 450 °C: $450 list
*Please note that larger parts will require (and all parts will benefit from) a heated build chamber. <br>Also note that annealing PEEK parts after printing (we use a circuit board reflow oven) recrystallizes (strengthens) the PEEK (and is recommended, but not required).*
Here is one of our videos from 2015 showing the 410 °C prototype for this head printing PEEK: YouTube - Introducing Hyrel's MK1-450 Printing PEEK and PC
I work for Hyrel 3D. The company page is linked in my profile.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: filament, filament-choice
--- |
thread-6483 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483 | How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer? | 2018-07-27T12:18:53.717 | # Question
Title: How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?
For my DIY coreXY printer I use 2.85 mm filament that is fed into an E3D clone hotend using a Bowden tube and a custom designed extruder with belt reduction centered around an Aluminium Bulldog extruder with an MK8 extruder gear. The reduction is necessary to create more torque to feed the filament correctly to prevent skipping and filament slipping and grinding.
The prints show under-extrusion (e.g. shell lines and bottom layer lines not or barely touching).
How can I calibrate my extruder to extrude just enough filament?
# Answer
> 12 votes
## Basic process<br>
> To **calibrate the extruder** you would need to **verify** that the **requested amount** of filament is **actually what is being moved by the extruder**.
---
## Structural or temporary problem<br>
A first thing to check when under or over-extrusion is encountered for a fresh spool of filament on a normally good working printer is to check the diameter of the filament with a caliper (see image below) and change this value accordingly in the slicer software of your choice and make a test print. If the problem persists or is present from the start of your purchase or build, please proceed. Note that there are two ways to change the extrusion, a simple solution is changing the extrusion multiplier in the slicer software, the better one is to fix the extrusion rate in the firmware.
*Please note that you should measure the filament diameter at several positions*
## 3D printer
There is a difference between DIY and commercial printers. Usually a commercial printer of decent quality **rarely** needs to be adjusted (as this is the job of the manufacturer). But cheap, commercial clones of well known printers, may need adjusting. Depending on the ability to change the settings of the software/firmware (closed or open source, or type of firmware), the user may (or may not) be allowed to change the values through configuration files or G-code commands.
For DIY printers, the builder is responsible for the printer as a whole and thus entrusted with the software/firmware setup of the printer controller board. The chosen printer firmware and its configuration should be done based on the printer layout and used hardware (also electronics like stepper drivers, remember the micro steps setting) which e.g. determines the amount of steps that are required to move an axis a certain amount of millimeters (steps/mm). This also applies to the extruder stepper. To start with a value of steps per mm, you could search the internet for your extruder type and recalculate the steps/mm roughly keeping your specifically used micro step value of the used stepper driver (which is set by dip switches or jumper caps an the printer board) in mind. With this basic setting you will be able to do a test.
## Calibrate extruder (hot or cold)
When you have a printer, or build a printer and uploaded a rough setting for the extruder steps per mm, please test the amount of extruded filament. It is customary to mark the filament with respect to a certain reference point, then extrude e.g. 100 mm, and then check the distance the mark on the filament has traveled. The distance should be 100 mm, if not, you should change the value of the steps/mm in the firmware. To extrude 100 mm you will need to send instructions to your printer over USB connection using a terminal or graphical user interface typically found in freeware applications as Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc. or by creating `.gcode` text files with specific instructions and load the models through the menu of the printer from e.g. SD-card.
The G-code `G1 E100 F100` commands the extruder stepper to move 100 mm in 100 mm per minute (please lookup if these G-codes are supported by your firmware!). Be sure that you have preheated the nozzle prior to extruding, many firmware's have built in protection to disallow extrusion below a certain temperature of the nozzle. For SD-card printing, e.g. for PLA you should preheat the nozzle to e.g. 195 °C with `M109 S195` and as such must be placed before the actual extrusion command.
If the measured distance is different than the instructed length, a simple calculation will determine your follow up actions. E.g. if the instructed length of 100 mm is in reality 95 mm, the extruder should extrude `(100 - 95) / 95) * 100 = 5.2 %` more, or similarly said, the extrusion needs to be multiplied by 1.052. This could be applied in the slicer, but when this is a structural problem you should fix this in the firmware itself. This can be done by adjusting the printer configuration file and uploading new firmware (and settings) or for some printer firmware solutions use the same method as previously used to instruct to extrude filament. The G-code for setting the extruder steps in Marlin firmware is M92 if done with codes. If the original value (can be obtained with the command M503) is e.g. 400 steps per mm, the value should be changed to `100/95 * 400 = 421 steps/mm`. The command `M92 E421` will set the new value which can be saved to memory (so that it is available after a printer power off/on cycle) using `M500`.
When the configuration file approach is used, the following line in the configuration:
```
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 200, 400 }
```
needs to be adjusted to:
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 200, 421 }
```
You can do this a few times to fine tune the extrusion process.
For people that have a Bowden setup and firmware that supports altering the minimum extrusion temperature, you could disconnect the Bowden tube to ignore the hotend heat up by temporarily disabling the cold extrusion limit (`M302` will display the current value) with `M302 S0`. After calibration please remember to set it back, e.g. `M302 S170`. Do note that temperature and extrusion speed do influence the extrusion process, so you might want to fine tune the extrusion process at temperature.
Now you printer extruder is tuned and should extrude the exact amount as instructed.
## Fine tuning
Although the extruder may now be correctly tuned to extrude exactly the amount as instructed, the slicer may have a different view. Be sure to set the slicer extrusion multiplier to 1.0 when fine tuning the extruder/slicer combination. The ultimate fine tuning starts with printing an object with zero bottom and top layers and a single perimeter with a fine layer height (0.1 or 0.15 mm).
Measure the thickness of the wall and adjust your slicer extrusion multiplier accordingly.
Now your extruder and slicer should be optimally fine-tuned!
---
Tags: extruder, calibration, knowledgebase
--- |
thread-6485 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6485 | White blocks on LCD screen after Anet A8 power up | 2018-07-27T12:53:41.203 | # Question
Title: White blocks on LCD screen after Anet A8 power up
I just completed assembly of the Anet A8 and powered it up.
Powering up shows white blocks on LED and a series of clicking noise for about three seconds with flashing red LED. During power-up, the following happens:
* The side heat sink fans start (Blower fan remains off)
* LED comes up with all white blocks and buttons do nothing
* No motor moves in any way
* Motherboard show not light except a three-flash-red-LEDnear the corner (fan connector)
* Printer remains in the state
* Reset button only repeats the clicking sound + red flashing LED
Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/mxNNeK5o13a9C6TC8
The display of the Anet A8 now shows white blocks.
Any hints as to what could be wrong?
**Update 1:** The clicking sound is actually the blower powering up and then going off immediately after.
**Update 2:** I just did a blind flash to Marlin 1.18 and the firmware deployed successfully. Now, the boot sequence is almost 4 secs longer (previously, it was 3) and the clicking sound of the blower fan slowly spinning is replaced by a high spin-up of the blower. but after that, we are back to a dead printer with all whites.
# Answer
This is a known and documented problem of this printer. I'm afraid your printer board is dead.
If you have white squares on the display like this picture:
> You need to check Anet A8's mainboard - click reset button and check the D1 indicator:
>
> * If D1 lights on for a second then went out and the screen is full of white square, try to reconnect screen wire for several times. When it's well connected, click the reset button. If still not working, you need to replace a screen.
> * If the D1 indicator is always off and the screen is full of white square, you need to replace a mainboard.
From the video you posted it can be seen that the D1 LED does not light up, it is off the whole time. Hence the main board is dead.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8
--- |
thread-6488 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6488 | Baking old PLA spool | 2018-07-27T23:27:12.887 | # Question
Title: Baking old PLA spool
*Context*
A while ago I bought a kit for a 3D printer, along with filament etc. however, after some weeks I ran into some mechanical problems and because I had a lot of other things to do at the time I put the project on hold.
Now, almost a year later, I thought I would continue the project. I've got all the mechanical pieces back to work right now, but I have some questions concerning the filament.
*Main question*
Firstly, I have a nearly full roll of PLA still, but it has been left in a dusty attic for almost a year. I read here that it could still be used if baked for a couple of hours at 50 degrees Celsius. Does anyone have experience with this? Can this be done in my regular oven that I also use for food without risk?
Secondly, there is still some PLA stuck in the printhead. As this may have taken up moisture I fear it might expand and damage the printhead. Is this possible? How could I remove it?
# Answer
> 2 votes
**Oven drying PLA**
Heating filament below the transition temperature of the filament should not be unsafe when using that oven later for cooking food. You need the temperature to stay under the glass transition temperature of PLA so that the filament doesn't deform. Depending on the PLA filament, you should use the very lowest temperature your oven will be able to handle. Temperatures around 40 ℃ to 50 ℃ would be fine to leave the filament in for periods of 3 to 6 hours. Even at this temp your PLA will soften anyways at elevated temperatures, oven drying PLA not necessarily will give you good results. It is therefore of prime importance to store at least PLA (and nylon) in airtight containers with bags of desiccants.
**Stuck PLA**
Moisture will not travel that far into the hotend, so changes are minimal that expanding filament has already damaged your hotend. Just heat up the nozzle and push the filament in by hand, put off the heat and pull the filament out fast. Heat up again and insert some fresh filament. Note that moisture in filament breaks the large polymer molecules, so even after drying you are left with brittle filament. Personally this has caused few of my prints to fail as the filament string broke a couple of times during prints (just snapped before the Ultimaker 3 extruder feeder); this was experienced with 2.85 mm filament on small diameter spools (about 20 cm in diameter).
---
Tags: filament, extruder, pla
--- |
thread-6489 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6489 | Cura confused as to what's touching the buildplate? | 2018-07-28T02:01:33.333 | # Question
Title: Cura confused as to what's touching the buildplate?
I'm very new to 3D printing, but so far I've been able to print a couple things off Thingiverse without issue. However, as I'm trying to print another part, I've run into a situation where Cura is totally confused as to what's touching the buildplate and what isn't:
All I did was use the "mirror" feature to put it in a better orientation for printing....
Any ideas what's going on here? I'm using Cura 3.4 for Linux.
---
**Update:** I tried using the rotation tool instead as suggested by Oscar, but I get the same result:
**Update 2:** Hmm so even when I just import the part without doing anything else, Cura is still confused:
# Answer
> 3 votes
The up- or down-ness of a part is its Z-orientation, which is specified in STL. It looks like whoever published that STL file published it upside down, requiring you to flip the part or rotate it by 180. You can flip it in Cura as you've done or leave a comment to the author of the STL that the part is upside down. However, the author may not know how to fix this because low-end modeling tools typically do not have the capability of flipping a model. In these cases, using another tool such as Cura or Slicer can generate a right-side up model. Cura seems to like generating AMF files, so I use Slicer to generate STL files for upside down models. Once you correct the STL file, you'll be able to import the model directly into Cura right-side up.
# Answer
> 2 votes
If you want to mirror the print to get the top to the bottom, and visa versa, you just need to rotate the part using the XYZ rotation tool. Mirroring is used to make a mirror image in the X-Z or Y-Z plane, not the X-Y plane.
You might just caught a bug, you could post that of their forum.
Update:
If that does not fix it, you might have an incorrect STL model, e.g. the normals of the faces are incorrect. You could try to fix this by repairing the model through an online service like this one.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-4652 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4652 | Best 32 bit electronics for delta? | 2017-09-23T22:06:29.710 | # Question
Title: Best 32 bit electronics for delta?
I'm looking to update my Delta printer's electronics from 8-bit to 32-bit.
So I checked Marlin and found out that they working on a project they call it Re-ARM and as far as I can tell they will support few chip-sets - I can't remember which one, so until when that happens I need to use something else but what?
I need it to be open source but the Smoothieboard (original one) is too expensive. I saw MKS SBASE but they are closed-source. There is also the MKS GEN version of it but again it uses an ATmega2560. Is there solution for now for my problem until 32-bit Marlin reaches test phase ?
# Answer
*Note that I am not stating this as the best 32 bit solution, as that is too subjective. Although you might want to read Recommendations for a good 32 bit microprocessor to run Marlin, which I cover in On which board can 32 bit Marlin run?*
---
So, to clarify, yes, while the MKS-BASE is based on the 8 bit ATmega2560, the MKS-SBASE is powered by 32 bit ARM, 100M Cortex-MS MCU-LPC1768.
Anyway, SmoothieWare can indeed run on MKS-SBASE. There is an *extensive* guide on Instructables - Configuring MKS SBASE V1.X 32-bit controller basics and into to SmoothieWare.
You first need the drivers (for Windows). Plug in the MKS-SBASE board and then install the driver.
> **Connecting USB**
>
> Plug in USB to the board and look at the LEDs at the upper left corner. Immediately the `D7` led lights up. After a bit `D1` also starts lightning while `D2` and `D3` blinks rapidly.
>
> Open device manager and update drivers for the new Smoothie/Serial USB device with the signed drivers you just downloaded from Github located in the easy to find folder: `\MKS-SBASE\MKS-SBASE\Driver\smoothieware-windows-signeddriver-v1.0`
Then to install the firmware:
> **Installing firmware**
>
> 1. Firmware from MKS are just and old copy of Smoothieware, so we always just want to use the newest version from Smoothieware.
>
> 1. In other words: **always use firmware from Smoothieware**.
> 2. If you can't find `config.txt` file from original Smoothieware, just use the one from MKS.
> 2. Download official firmware from Smoothieware's firmware page which is a subpage on their own Github page (you might want to download their full Github repository (folder) in order to find their config.txt file)
> 1. Start by using the Stable version. When everything is working fine, you can use the Nightly version instead. It is the newest version, but not fully tested yet, and considered as beta/test.
> 3. Insert the SD Card into the MKS Sbase board and plug in the USB Cable. Your SD Card is now going to show in your file-Explorer.
> 1. If not, you need to make sure you have the Drivers installed.
> 4. If you can't find the `config.txt` file from Smoothieware, just locate the `config.txt` in `\MKS
> Sbase\MKS-SBASE-master\MKSSBase-firmware` and copy it to your SD Card.
> 1. Smoothieware suggest disabling auto-Mount on the SD when connecting to USB. Especially when using a Mac, as OSX tends to do funky stuff at strange times.
> 2. I have changed nothing on my Win10. And nothing bad has happened the past year.
> 5. The D7 lights up, shortly after D1 follows. D2, D3, D4 blinks and then D4 turns steady while D2 and D3 continues blinking.
> 1. At this point, the `firmware.bin` had changed to `firmware.cur` file on the SD card
> 6. After successful updated, the file name will turn into firmware.cur.
>
> **Changing or Updating firmware**
>
> Just delete the `firmware.cur` file from your SD, or rename to `firmware.cur.old` or similar, and copy on the new `firmware.bin` file to your SD. Powercycle your printer (also unplug USB) and you can see your new `firmware.cur` file on your SD card.
>
> **Note:** After making any changes to your `config.txt` file in the future, you need to power-cycle your controller, meaning disconnect both power (if in use) and USB. You can send a reset command, but only through true terminal use and not through Printrun/Pronterface or similar.
The guide, as stated above is extremely detailed, and goes on to explain all of the other aspects. The contents are as follows:
> **Table Of Contents:**
>
> 1. Connect and install
> 1. Connecting USB
> 2. Installing firmware
> 2. Configuring Smoothieware compared to Marlin
> 3. Obvious difference from Marlin
> 1. Less obvious differneces
> 2. Firmware and Config file(s)
> 3. Configuring firmware
> 4. Comments
> 4. Firmware Step 1: Default feed rate
> 1. 1/32 Multistepping
> 2. Connecting Motors
> 3. External Motor Controllers
> 5. Firmware Step 2: Cartesian axis speed limits, pins and current
> 1. Pins
> 2. Current
> 6. Firmware Step 3: LCD, SD and Extruder
> 1. LCD and SD
> 2. Extruder Setup
> 3. Delta driver current
> 7. Firmware Step 4: Hotend temperature control configuration
> 1. Thermistor Type
> 2. PID Tuning
> 3. Hotend Thermistor - Physical Layout
> 4. Hotend Heater Pins - Physical Layout
> 8. Firmware Step 5: Heated bed temperature control configuration
> 1. Thermistor Type
> 2. Temperature Control Bed BANG-BANG
> 3. Heated bed thermistor - Physical Layout
> 4. Heated bed heater pins - Physical Layout
> 9. Firmware Step 6: Configuring Endstops
> 1. Homing direction
> 2. Disable unused endstops
> 3. Define axes size
> 4. Reversing endstop output
> 5. Fast and slow homing rates
> 10. Firmware step 7: Network Settings
> 11. Step 8: What's next?
> 1. More advanced setup?
> 2. Using Switches
As there is way to much to cover here, please visit the Instructables page for the complete guide, in order to complete the configuration.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: electronics, delta
--- |
thread-4655 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4655 | On which board can 32 bit Marlin run? | 2017-09-24T22:59:12.680 | # Question
Title: On which board can 32 bit Marlin run?
Does anyone know on which board that can be bought today is possible to run current Marlin x32 ?
# Answer
> 4 votes
The `platformio.ini` file, given in Zac's comment, does not seem to list all of the boards supported.
However, The Marlin 2.0 32-bit thread appears to have a table that is much more complete (at the time of writing):
```
Board MCU State To-Do
RAMPS, etc. Arduino AVR good
Due, RAMPS FD (v2.A!), etc. SAM3X8E good
Archim 1.0 SAM3X8E ❓unknown Only US$170!
Archim 2.0 SAM3X8E beta needs confirmation
Re-ARM LPC1768 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS,Tones,etc.
MKS-SBASE LPC1768 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.
Smoothieboard LPC1769 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.
Azteeg X5 GT LPC1769 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.
Cohesion3D Remix LPC1769 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.
Selena Compact LPC1768 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.
Malyan M200 STM32F103C8 beta EMERGENCY_PARSER,NEOPIXEL_LED, etc.
Borg STM32F765ZGT6 ⚠️beta EMERGENCY_PARSER,NEOPIXEL_LED, etc.
Chitu3D V3.9 STM32F103ZET6 alpha EMERGENCY_PARSER,NEOPIXEL_LED, LCD, SDCard, MAX6675, etc.
Teensy 3.5 MK64FX alpha (need shields)
Teensy 3.6 MK66FX alpha (need shields)
STEVAL-3DP001V1 STM32F401VE alpha (need boards)
```
From \[Question\] Most promising 32 Bit Platform for Marlin 2.x
> The reference platform IS Re-Arm with a RAMPS shield. You can find instructions for both obtaining it and getting setup with it at #7076
It appears the you have to use the *bugfix* branch:
> Right now, there are two branches. Bugfix-v1.1.x and Bugfix-v2.0.0. They are almost identical from a feature set perspective. But Bugfix-v2.0.0 is modified to have a hierarchical file layout. That was needed to clean up the code and to support 32-bit.
>
> The AVR code is fully debugged and working in both branches. The 32-bit code only exists (and works) in the Bugfix-v2.0.0 branch. And while the code does work... And some people are using it to print, it isn't entirely painless to get to that point.
You may also want to read Recommendations for a good 32 bit microprocessor to run Marlin. To list a few examples:
* Atmel ATSAM3x8e on the Due board
* Anyhow, there are a lot of 32bit Controller. Take a look at mbed.org for example. You can use the arm-none-eabi-xxx for STM32, LPC, also the Arduino Due use it
* Duet board (now called DuetWifi) is available for pre-order. It has a 120MHz Cortex M4 with hardware FPU
* AZSMZ ARM 32bit controller board
* RedBear: https://redbearlab.github.io/arduino/package\_redbear\_index.json
+ RedBear Duo (Cortex-M3, WiFi + BLE)
+ RedBear discussion forum
* Konekt Dash/DashPro (Official): http://downloads.konekt.io/arduino/package\_konekt\_index.json
+ Cortex M4-based global cellular dev kits, support for all board variants, support for USB and over-the-air programming straight from within Arduino IDE
Another link that might be useful is Unofficial list of 3rd party boards support urls, although not all of these are 32 bit.
---
Tags: marlin
--- |
thread-6495 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6495 | Anet A6 Z-axis min endstop not triggering | 2018-07-29T15:48:39.010 | # Question
Title: Anet A6 Z-axis min endstop not triggering
I had a Z probe installed but the wires came out of the header so I am trying to use software endstops, but any time I `G28` the nozzle will always ram into the bed. I am using Marlin Firmware. Which I am relatively new with. I'm used to having hardware endstops, but,
**I don't have a hardware endstop currently (no probe/no switch).**
* Is it possible to do this with software?
* I took out `G28`/`G29` in my G-code and it shows that it is going to z0.2 and working upward (but it still hits the bed). If the bed is level do I need a `G28`?
* Should Z probe offset be 0?
```
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
#endif
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.
// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.
#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE
#define PROBE_MANUALLY
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 1 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -55 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3.4
#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 0 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 3 // Z Clearance between probe points
// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#endif
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
There is no such thing as a software endstop for the 3D printer. When you power a printer the print head can be located at every X, Y, Z position (usually, Z is at the print height of your last print, X is at the minimum X, and Y is at an arbitrary location determined by the last print).
This is exactly why we need endstops, either mechanical, optical or electronic (inductive or capacitive) end stop switches or sensors. You instruct the printer to home by using a known fixed location of the printer; this is the hitting of all endstops. The origin of the printer may have offsets, as the origin of the printer may not coincide with the endstop location. For the Anet A6 this is a few millimeters, e.g. for Marlin firmware this is defined in the configuration by:
```
#define X_MIN_POS -3
#define Y_MIN_POS -5
```
The answer to your question: "Is it possible to do this with software?" is therefore, no, you cannot do this solely with software.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The A6 3D Printer Installation Instruction shows that there is an endstop, part `2-7-2`, page 4, included in the kit:
It needs to be fitted as shown on page 8:
Page 36 shows the correct length of the wires, which should prevent the wires being pulled out of the sensors/switches:
Page 38 shows where the Z-axis endstop is attached to the controller board:
To be fair, this assembly guide seems to be rather poor quality and after having looked through it a number of times I fail to see any actual instructions on how, or where *exactly*, to mount the Z-axis minimum endstop.
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a6
--- |
thread-6039 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6039 | 3D Printing of a Swellable Material | 2018-05-26T12:40:06.847 | # Question
Title: 3D Printing of a Swellable Material
I recently saw this video of super-swellable polymer and felt inspired. Printing a swellable structure would be sort of interesting. However, sodium polyacrylate isn't a printable material. Does anyone know of a material that is? Preferably, swelling activated by water.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The video treats about sodium polucarbonate (C3H3NaO2) this is a superabsorbent polymer has the ability to absorb as much as 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. This is used as desiccant on products that moisture can be a problem basically during storage prior selling. The video shows the water how is trapped inside the particles of sodium polycarbonate, this happens inside a diaper or any product urine odor absorbing, also is used on waste liquid control.
Also you can find something similar on some products that has a little bag that says silica gel (SiO2).
# Answer
> 1 votes
There appear to be at least two papers which revolve around the use of hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC) filaments.
---
This proposal/article, from Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology 30 July 2015 seems to, at least, partially fit your criteria, 3D Printing by Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) of a Swellable/Erodible Capsular Device for Oral Pulsatile Release of Drugs by Melocchi et al.:
> The aim of the present work was to explore the feasibility of fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printing in the manufacturing of capsular devices for oral pulsatile release based on a swellable/erodible polymer (hydroxypropyl cellulose, HPC). This involved an experimental evaluation of the possibility of fabricating hollow structures via FDM and the production of HPC filaments by hot melt extrusion (HME), which are not commercially available. Moreover, the set-up of appropriate computer aided design files had to be faced. A twin-screw extruder equipped with a rod-shaped die and a purposely designed pulling/calibrating device as well as a MakerBot Replicator 2 3D printer were employed for HME and FDM processing, respectively. Bodies and caps with satisfactory physico-technological properties were obtained. The release test of assembled capsular devices pointed out a lag phase before rapid and quantitative liberation of the drug. The morphological changes undergone by the device when in contact with water and their release performance turned out comparable with those of analogous systems fabricated by injection molding. The possibility of manufacturing capsular devices for oral pulsatile release by FDM 3D printing starting from HPC filaments purposely prepared was thus demonstrated, and the real-time prototyping potential of FDM was assessed.
>
> 3D Printing by Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) of a Swellable/Erodible Capsular Device for Oral Pulsatile Release of Drugs | Request PDF. Available from: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/282800986\_3D\_Printing\_by\_Fused\_Deposition\_Modeling\_FDM\_of\_a\_SwellableErodible\_Capsular\_Device\_for\_Oral\_Pulsatile\_Release\_of\_Drugs \[accessed Jul 30 2018\].
Also, from Manufacturing and characterization of £D printing filament by tailoring materials by V. Mirón, S. Ferrándiz\*, D. Juárez, A. Mengual
> There are also references to the pharmaceutical field’s manufactured materials as it reflects Melocchi in his paper about filaments based on insoluble (ethylcellulose, Eudragit RL), promptly soluble (polyethylene oxide, Kollicoat1 IR), enteric soluble (Eudragit1 L, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose acetate succinate) and swellable/erodible (hydrophilic cellulose derivatives, polyvinyl alcohol, Soluplus1) polymers were successfully produced
There is also this, which refers to the Melocchi paper above, Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) 3D Printed Tablets for Intragastric Floating Delivery of Domperidone:
> Domperidone (DOM)... DOM was successfully loaded into hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC) filaments using hot melt extrusion (HME).
>
> ...
>
> Several novel gastroretentive delivery systems have been explored to overcome the shortcomings above, including polymer bioadhesive systems, swelling and expanding systems, high-density systems and floating systems
An image of the filament is shown in figure 1:
>
---
However, as a commercially available filament, you might be out of luck, or at least hard pushed to find one.
---
Tags: print-material, support-structures, support-material
--- |
thread-6498 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6498 | Why not use GT2 en lieu of a Z-axis threaded rod or leadscrew? | 2018-07-29T21:26:42.103 | # Question
Title: Why not use GT2 en lieu of a Z-axis threaded rod or leadscrew?
Having just re-read Tom's excellent answer to my question Advantages of GT2 over a rack, as my comment ponders<sup>1</sup>:
*Why is a threaded rod, or lead screw, used for the Z-axis movement in a Prusa (and its derivatives) given the inherent problems relating to backlash?*
Indeed the majority of, if not all, delta printers generally use GT2 for the three vertical movements, presumably for this reason (of reduced backlash). Maybe cost and simplicity also play a part? I am purely speculating on these three reasons. The mass of the three vertical carriages and the associated carbon rods, would certainly seem to be a lot less than the mass of a cartesian X-axis gantry.
Is it purely for reason of the mass of the X-axis gantry (especially if the extruder is mounted upon it - in a non-Bowden solution) that mechanical rods are used, as GT2 would not be able to lift the weight, without stretching (both over time and flexing slight upon each movement)? If so, then surely *wire reinforced GT2* could be used?
As a potential aside, would another consideration be to compare the inertia of a GT2 solution to that of a threaded rod, leadscrew solution<sup>2</sup>?
---
<sup>1</sup> I have a nagging worry that I have *already* asked this somewhere else, but after having spent the best part of a day looking for it and failing, I am asking here.
<sup>2</sup> Although I am not entirely sure how that would be measured/compared, as one solution (leadscrew) is rotational, with a translation to linearal via the screw thread, and the other (GT2) is (effectively) fully rotational? I am going to ask about this particular point on SE.Mechanical Engineering, and will update this question as necessary.
# Answer
A lead screw can be fitted with a anti-backlash nut to get past your concern about backlash. Generally, backlash is not that of a problem considering the weight of the carriage (e.g. Prusa), or whole bed (e.g. CoreXY or Ultimaker). Certainly if you're not using Z-hop, the Z screw will only advance in a single direction!
GT2 belts are always reinforced with fibres either glass, steel or some other fibre, all with their own (dis)advantages.
As far as I have learned is that lead screws are far better capable of transporting higher loads at the cost of speed. Also, a leadscrew will have more resistance so that if you unpower the steppers, the gantry will not plummet to the bed.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: z-axis, printer-building, lead-screw
--- |
thread-6451 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6451 | Build plate cools during print | 2018-07-23T01:06:44.170 | # Question
Title: Build plate cools during print
I am using a Flashforge Creator Dual Extrusion 3D Printer with RepG (ReplicatorG), and tonight a print completely detached from the build plate.
I reset everything and watched it closely. It is a simple abs print at 230/110 degrees.
A few seconds after start of print, I noticed that the print bed temp had dropped to 109... and kept dropping.
This is new behavior. I haven't started to troubleshoot yet. I am looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot the issue.
**Edit 1:**
Tonight RepG would not connect to the printer. I reseated the USB cord and now it does.
The test print is ABS at 230/110 from this open scad.
```
difference()
{
cylinder(d = 10, h = 2);
cylinder(d = 9, h = 2);
}
```
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2/Oscar Once the print starts the print bed begins cooling. It is cooling before any filament is laid down.
**Edit 2:**
Examination of the gcode shows the root cause. It does contain
```
M104 S230 T1 (set extruder temperature)
```
It does not contain a
```
M109 S110 (set build plate temperature)
```
When I manually add the M109 to the gcode file, the model prints normally, and the build plate temperature holds for the duration of the print.
The drop in temperature last week is due to the fact that I tend to preheat the printer before actually starting the print. Since there was no M109 the bed plate cooled to ambient temperature.
There isn't a hardware issue here. Most likely it is a Rep G configuration error of some sort.
**Edit 3:**
I resolved the issue by a fresh install of the latest Rep G. I rebuilt the profiles from scratch with G Code to set the correct bed temp. Thank you for your suggestions.
# Answer
Check your slicer settings. Some slicers allow the temperature to change at a specified layer. You may have programmed the slic3r to turn off the bed after the first (or maybe zeroth) layer.
You call also examine the G-code for M140, M144, and M190 commands.
Of course, the usual intermittent electric connections, power supply failures, etc. should be checked, but don't overlook the possibility that it is working exactly as you are asking it to work.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Your bed is obviously capable of heating up, so I would double check your cable for any kinks, cuts, blow-outs, or general connection issues both where your machine rests during warm-up and Z0 where your machine begins printing.
Most likely there is a poor connector or kinked/cut wire for the build plate.
If that doesn't appear to be the issue, I might also suggest checking your power supply. I've heard of other similar machines' power supplies not being quite strong enough to support two extruders AND a heated bed.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Preheating the bed is a commonly used approach to shorten the time to print. I'll explain; it actually does not shorten the physical print time itself, but before you start a print there is always stuff to do like inserting the SD-card or loading the model in the print server, while you do that, the bed will be heating, so time gained.
When you load a model it apparently resets the temperatures, so preheating will only have an effect when you also actually set the bed temperature in the G-code file. This means that either your G-code file has some codes that influence the temperature, the connector is loose or loading a print over the program you use must reset the bed temperature, there aren't any other options.
To comment on your G-code, M109 is used to set the extruder temperature and wait till it is reached, M190 is used to set the bed temperature and wait till it is reached. Usually M190 is used to set the bed temperature before the first layer is being printed; the printer waits until the temperature is reached before the printer continues to the next command (usually the heating of the hotend). If you have selected a different temperature for the rest of the print you will find the M140 G-code command prior to printing the second layer.
I have tested on my Prusa i3 clone running a Marlin fork to print a model with all references to M190 and M140 removed. I pre-heated to 70 °C (for PETG) and loaded the model in OctoPrint print server and commenced the print. The printer retained the bed value and did not drop.
Basically, it is needed to take a closer look at your G-code file. The answer must be in there. If there is nothing to find in the G-code file and electronic connections are fine, the answer must be found in ReplicatorG, this might send reset signals prior to sending the print, but that sounds really strange.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, troubleshooting, flashforge-creator
--- |
thread-5869 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5869 | Danger in 3D printing over a lithium ion battery | 2018-04-24T18:25:08.703 | # Question
Title: Danger in 3D printing over a lithium ion battery
So I bought a Lulzbot Mini a couple months ago and finally downloaded Ultimaker's version of Cura... Boy... have I been missing out...
One feature Ultimaker Cura implemented that I've been looking for is a "pause at z-height" feature ("post-processing tool"). I'm building prototypes of an electronics device, and creating two pieces that snap together looks a lot worse than printing a single piece. If I could pause my print, insert my electronics, and continue printing, my device would look a lot more professional (even if it took longer to make).
My one concern is the lithium ion battery. Right now I'm printing in TPU. With a heated bed of 40 degrees Celsius, and a heated extruder at 240 degrees Celsius, there seems to be a significant risk that the lithium ion battery reaches a temperature above 60 degrees Celsius (damaging the cell, causing a potential explosion). Granted, I am not sure what "60 degrees Celsius" actually means. It could mean only one part of the packaging needs to reach this temperature, or it could mean the entire LiPo's internal temperature would need to reach this. In either case, the numbers don't look good.
On the other hand, the heated bed surely doesn't need to remain heated beyond the first few layers? Additionally, I can create a "roof" for the LiIon battery that I can slip it under, providing some insulative TPU before the rest of the device. I think the print would happen safely like this, but obviously, an explosion would be really really bad. Like it would probably burn my house down, and I would be asleep when it happened.
**Does anyone have any experience doing this? Is there a way to turn off the heated bed mid-print? I guess I can insert a g-code line during the pause? Will this affect the remainder of the print you think? Am I being paranoid? Can the extruder actually pass heat through a 1–2 mm of insulation and cause an explosion? Anyone know how heat travels from the initial, liquid print material through the rest of the structure?**
Any more advice or things I should consider before pursuing this?
A more specific pause type might be helpful, if anyone knows of any.
# Answer
> 9 votes
There is an option to directly insert extra commands at a specific Z height, no need to enter them manually.
That said, it is a bad idea to turn off the heated bed while printing, because this will often detach the object from the bed completely (that's kind of the point of having the heated bed in the first place: better adhesion while printing, and easier removal afterwards).
I wouldn't print over a battery to enclose it, not just because it is likely to damage the battery, but also to keep the battery exchangeable. Enclosing the rest of the design in a case is possible, but normally it is easier to print two separate parts that can be screwed together through a hole in the PCB.
So, experience: it's not worth it usually.
# Answer
> 9 votes
I would have to see your design to comment more but why not just change your model with the lid or top that can be either fused on later or attached in some other fashion?
It is possible to turn off the heated bed after a certain layer. It looks like there is a discussion here with the G-code: Can Cura Turn Off a Heated Bed Partway Into a Print?
I would personally avoid exposing the battery to the heat generated by the hotend or the build plate. Printers alone can burn your house down. Why combine it with the awesome power of a lithium ion battery?
# Answer
> 4 votes
If your heatbed is at 40°C, and it's not dangerous until 60°C, I wouldn't worry.
The heatbed is what heats up the printed object, not the print head. It will obviously heat it up a tiny bit in a small local area when printing, but the heat dissipates rapidly, only affecting the temperature of the object very little.
If you're worried, try getting a laser thermometer, and monitor the surface temperature of the battery during a test print. They're like $10, so it's not a big investment to try it out.
Alternately, maybe you can do a test print with a stand-in for the battery, and embed a temperature probe in the stand-in, and monitor the temperature real-time while printing.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Although the bed may only reach 60°, the extrusion above the battery will be at closer to 200°C. Granted there will be a fairly low heat flux, but it will still cause ageing of the battery. At a minimum, some insulation or packing above the battery would seem like a sensible move. This could be printed material, and you could print over the top if you really want to seal the part.
Also remember that as LiPo cells age, they generate gas (this is designed to be trapped in the pouch) and swell. You should try and avoid any risk of puncture if this happens.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Well. First. If you ever think, hmm this might cause an explosion. DON'T DO IT. SERIOUSLY. Modify the design so you can insert the battery.
That said, most softwares will let you set a heater temp per layer. I have mine set through simplify 3d. I usually use this setting for the hot end, as I like to have the first layer hot. You will have bad results doing this with the bed as you will likely cause the print to expand or shrink enough to pop off. You are better not using the heated bed for the print than to turn it off. Look into rafts as well. That is how makerbot helps mitigate their heatless beds. A fan will also help..
AGAIN do not try anything that can possibly might blow something up. There are a lot of variables you do not know, such as how conductive the plastic is and how much will travel through the hotend to the battery. Or how off the specs are for this battery.
# Answer
> -2 votes
Discharge the battery entirely, then there is no danger of ignition if the membrane breaks. The battery cells are usually protected by Kapton tape (LiPo) or maybe even metal (LiIon). Both will withstand the temperature of 240°C. The downside is that the cells are damaged after a deep discharge. You should discard the battery afterwards.
**What I would expect when you do that:**
A deeply discharged battery will bloat up because the solvents will gas out. This will also happen if you heat up the battery enough (\>\>60 degree). The gases themselves can be ignited again but are captured in our air sealed Kapton envelope :) Igniting these gases will be comparable to a short flash with a spray can.
The temperature is not enough to damage the envelope. The solvents will be also not very dangerous in that temperature range. In case of mechanical breakdown of the membrane nothing will happen anymore.
From Solvents and Additives:
>
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, lulzbot
--- |
thread-5950 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5950 | Trouble uploading Skynet3D to my Anet A8 via Arduino program | 2018-05-09T14:32:58.073 | # Question
Title: Trouble uploading Skynet3D to my Anet A8 via Arduino program
I'm in distress here fellow people. I'm a noob to 3d printers and want to become an expert. Everybody has to start at the bottom right? Like the title says I'm trying to upload Skynet to my printer and for the board, I'm selecting `V.1` even though my arduino board says `V.1-5`. And for port I'm selecting `COM3`, which is information I found in device manager, and the file I'm selecting to upload is `SkynetV.1.?alfa.ino`. After all of that is selected I click upload and I get the following error messages:
```
Sketch uses 114,230 bytes (87%) of program storage space. Maximum is 131,072 bytes.
Global variables use 4,470 bytes of dynamic memory.
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xd6
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6f
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x80
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xbf
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xae
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xd6
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x02
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x21
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xcc
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xd6
```
Please help me.
# Answer
> 2 votes
*Skynet3D was a very old fork from Marlin firmware, all functionality (more specifically for the odd LCD screens used by Anet) have been merged into Marlin firmware. Just get the latest version of Marlin. The current and final release of branch 1.1.x is 1.1.9 further development will be done in 2.0.x. Version 1.1.9 works perfectly fine for the Anet A8.*
---
These error messages are displayed when you have either selected the wrong COM port or wrong Arduino board or have faulty or no drivers installed.
---
Tags: firmware, skynet3d
--- |
thread-4651 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4651 | Tevo Tarantula home offset | 2017-09-23T18:40:41.117 | # Question
Title: Tevo Tarantula home offset
Following Beny's advice, I've just setup JimBrown-MarlinTarantula firmware. However, my `X0` & `Y0` points are off the bed.
When trying to center my prints & afterwards sending `G1 X100 Y140` to the printer, I am still off center by the margins of the sizes my `X0` & `Y0` points are divided by 2.
What should I do?
# Answer
> 1 votes
By adjusting/calibration of the center of the bed you will automatically find the correct offset values.
This is explained in detail in this answer to the question How to center my prints on the build platform?.
---
Tags: heated-bed, firmware, tevo-tarantula
--- |
thread-3637 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3637 | Folgertech FT-5 : Does not seem to be reading G-Code correctly | 2017-02-21T18:10:28.567 | # Question
Title: Folgertech FT-5 : Does not seem to be reading G-Code correctly
I recently purchased an FT-5 from Folgertech and finished assembly about a week ago. I have yet to accomplish a successful print. It seems like either the file is not being sliced correctly, or that it is possibly reading the G-code incorrectly. It will lay down the first perimeter layer of the part and then shift down the build plate a few mm in the y-direction, extrude another perimeter layer and then repeat. I have tried printing from an SD and through USB using Cura as the slicing software, with the same results.
* I have doubled checked the tightness on all of the belts and pulleys
* The Y-Driver was bad, initially so I swapped it with the spare on the board and it solved the issue.
* I have gone through the entire code on the Marlin V3 Firmware, and everything seems to look as it should.
* MKS Gen V 1.4 w/ Arduino Mega 2560
* I have tried using Arduino 1.6.5/1.6.6/1.6.7
* I calibrated the XYZ steps/mm
All of the mechanical movements and offsets seem to be correct. The printer connects to Pronterface without issue. It also homes fine from the machine and USB and moves where it should during these processes. Again, it seems to be that the issue is when it tries to interpret the G-code. I have tried multiple G-code files from different sources as well, still with the same luck.
If anyone has experience with similar issues or can offer any help, it would be greatly appreciated. I have no clue what could be going on!
In red filament is my attempt to print the 5 mm calibration cube this morning, an example of how this calibration cube should look like is seen in the picture with the white calibration cubes.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The image shows that somehow steps in Y direction (under the assumption that you have taken the photograph from the front) are missed.
Missing steps can be caused by too high settings for acceleration and jerk, too much friction on the undercarriage or the belt assembly, undercarriage catching something at a certain point, too less current through the stepper.
You could increase the torque on the stepper by increasing the V<sub>ref</sub> of your stepper driver is you have separate stepper driver modules, or a adjustment screw on the printer controller board. Furthermore reduce the acceleration and jerk settings and check the undercarriage for stick-slip movement by disconnecting the belt, then reconnect the belt and check for friction of the pulleys.
---
Tags: g-code, printer-building, electronics, calibration, folgertechft-5
--- |
thread-3698 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3698 | Reprap Ormerod 2 Duet web control not automatically starting, how can I fix? | 2017-03-08T13:14:43.443 | # Question
Title: Reprap Ormerod 2 Duet web control not automatically starting, how can I fix?
I have an Ormerod 2 which is controlled by an Duet board with original up to date firmware. When I power it on and try to use the web interface (web control) it seems to not have started. When I connect my printer to my laptop and use Pronterface (printer interface) to send t0 to the printer it replies
`Starting network...
RepRapFirmware is up and running.
Starting DHCP
Network up, IP=censored`
which leads me to the conclusion that the printer isn't starting its firmware and the web interface before that. After sending t0 and waiting 10sec for these replies it works fine.
Every source says it should start automatically.
So my question is how do I fix that? or what even is the problem?
Thanks in advance.
EDIT: For everyone wondering: One time I let the printer sit powered on for ~1h before trying to connect and use Pronterface, same story as above.
# Answer
> 1 votes
First thing I would do is to update firmware to the newest version: https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases
See details on Duet wiki page: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide#Section\_Updating\_Firmware\_and\_Duet\_Web\_Control
---
Tags: reprap, firmware
--- |
thread-6513 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6513 | Toxicity of Light-curing resin? | 2018-07-31T12:03:38.773 | # Question
Title: Toxicity of Light-curing resin?
I'm one of the lucky (??) Kickstarter supporters who received a T3D resin printer. This uses a proprietary (so far as I can tell) resin which cures under exposure to visible, rather than the usual UV, light. The manual is full of dire warnings about touching the resin, but no MSDS. Anyone know if there is a datasheet on their resin, or more generally, for light-curing resins in general?
(see myt3d.com for limited info on the machine and the resin)
# Answer
While you probably cannot find an MSDS on the resin for your printer (yet), they are out there for other resin based printers. Here's a generic MSDS on one for Objet RGD515:
It's not a pretty thing.
To back this up, Fabbaloo has two articles out which talk about the toxicity of liquid resin which is light cured. I'm not *entirely* positive your resin falls into this arena, but would assume since they state in the handling instructions it's toxic, it's probably right along the same lines as the other toxic resins. Please note, in the article it states there are resins out which *aren't toxic*. They suggest one should handle all resins of this type as though they are toxic unless you have specific documentation which states otherwise.
In one of the articles (Nov 2015) quotes findings which were published by the University of California, Riverside. Their study focused on zebrafish embryos and the toxicity of two different 3D printed materials which are commonly used. The materials were Stratasys Dimension Elite (plastic extrusion) and Formlab’s Form 1+ (photo-cured resin). These printed samples were placed in zebrafish tanks to observe their effects on fish embryos and compare to “control” tanks without the samples.
The University stated:
> While the embryos exposed to parts from the plastic-melting printer had slightly decreased average survival rates compared to control embryos, the embryos exposed to parts from the liquid-resin printer had significantly decreased survival rates, with more than half of the embryos dead by day three and all dead by day seven. And of the few zebrafish embryos that hatched after exposure to parts from the liquid-resin printer, 100 percent of the hatchlings had developmental abnormalities.
Note: Here is the second Fabbaloo article from April 2016.
Fomrlabs has quite an extensive list of MSDS sheets for their products. Their page states the following about their resin materials:
> Formlabs Standard resins are designed to be similar or safer to handle as other household chemicals or adhesives. When measuring potential acute health effects of inhalation or ingestion, there are no known significant effects or critical hazards. Eye contact may cause eye irritation. Skin contact may cause an allergic skin reaction. The safety data sheets (SDS) are up to date for every resin product and follow the latest government guidelines. Always consult the SDS as the primary source of information to understand safety and handling of Formlabs materials.
>
> Use chemical-resistant gloves - such as nitrile or neoprene; do not use latex - when handling liquid resin, including when removing printed parts from the printer. Exposure to resin in the liquid form can cause mild skin irritation for some people. If you get any on your skin, make sure to wash thoroughly with soap and water before moving on to other activities. Do not use solvents to wash hands, face, or any body parts. Wear gloves and use alcohol, followed by soap and water, to clean tools after handling resin.
While this is not conclusive about your specific resin, like was stated, always treat the material as though it *is toxic* until documentation tells you otherwise. If all else fails, treat it as toxic and you can't go wrong.
> 7 votes
---
Tags: sla, resin, t3d
--- |
thread-322 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/322 | How to achieve dimensional accuracy of printed parts? | 2016-01-18T12:33:22.370 | # Question
Title: How to achieve dimensional accuracy of printed parts?
When designing parts that should either fit with external objects or other printed parts, what measures can one take to ensure that the dimensions of the final print are accurate and fit the other object?
To my knowledge, you at least have two options to account for printer inaccuracy and shrinkage:
* Adjust the space around joints in your CAD model
* Adjust dimensional offsets in your slicer software
Are there any good workflows one can use to design and print 3D-models accurately without resorting to trial and error?
# Answer
I think the best way to go about this would be to calibrate your printer and slicer as best you can. One of my pet peeves is when people upload STLs that have been adjusted to fit their printer/material. There are many suppliers of material that vary in quality as well as many materials and different printers that the tolerances shouldn't be built into the part because in the end it usually just makes it harder for others attempting to print the model.
If you aren't sharing models then all I can say is you are still better off to calibrate your printer and tune your slicer to your material. You'll have more luck with models from other people and have an easier time designing your own.
If you still have trouble then modifying the model is probably the last option. I don't know of any CAD programs that can work with problems 3D printers have so experience is going to be your only help. I know in Inventor you can go around and Thicken/Offset individual surfaces of the model to compensate or if you had a percentage for your shrinkage you could get creative with formulas in the sketches.
> 10 votes
# Answer
Unfortunately, different firmwares and different slicers require different calibration techniques! There's a lot of software-specific advice out there, like printing a single-wall calibration box and measuring the wall thickness. That's a good technique for Slic3r, but not for Simplify3D. It can be very confusing.
Here's the general outline of what you should do:
1. **Rough calibration check** for printer steps/mm. Do the values in your firmware settings make sense for your linear motion hardware? For example, you can calculate what the theoretical values SHOULD be based on belt pitch and pulley tooth count. Print something moderately big (~100-200mm) and check if it's +/-1-2%. If it's off by more than that, your steps/mm is probably wrong.
2. **Check for mechanical backlash** using a backlash-checking print like this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252490 Tighten belts and perform other printer-specific tuning required to eliminate backlash. Backlash will throw off other calibration steps, so make sure there's no slop!
3. Follow the recommended **extrusion volume calibration** steps for your slicer. This starts with measuring your filament diameter with calipers and inputting that into your slicer. And then you will usually either *"print a single-walled box and measure the thickness"* or *"print a series of 100% infill calibration boxes and adjust the extrusion multiplier to the largest value that looks good without bulging."* By measuring filament diameter and then adjusting an extrusion calibration setting in the slicer, you will be able to measure future filament and prints will come out right. Giving the slicer fake diameter values will force you to recalibrate every time the diameter changes. Note that you must redo this calibration for each FILAMENT MATERIAL and EXTRUDER DESIGN. Different material/extruder pairs will have different bite depths and effective drive diameter.
4. **Precision calibration check** by printing a variety of object sizes and PLOTTING "desired size" as X and "actual size" as Y. Then find a linear fit equation, y=mx+b. (Do this separately for your printer's X, Y, and Z axes.) *The value "m" is your scale error.* You can use your slicer object scaling to fix this. For example, ABS usually requires 100.3-101% scaling to account for shrinkage. If you have scale error with a low-shrinkage material like PLA, you can adjust your firmware's steps/mm value to compensate. *The value "b" is your fixed width error.* Assuming you don't have backlash, this is usually caused by the small amount that molten plastic bulges out to the sides, or by extrusion volume calibration error. You can improve this by fine-tuning your extrusion volume. Many slicers also have "horizontal/XY size compensation" settings that you can use to shrink/expand the part by b/2 to correct the fixed width error. Any residual fixed-width error that you cannot correct with slicer settings should be added as a tolerance in your part models.
If you follow these steps, you should get +/-0.1mm or better dimensional precision on your prints.\*
\*Deltas not included. That's a whole other ball of wax.
> 14 votes
# Answer
I think it's important to remember that a 3D printer is both an R&D tool and a piece of manufacturing equipment. As such, we should treat it and it's process similarly to other pieces of manufacturing equipment (ie mills, saws, etc.). Other (albeit traditional) manufacturing methods such as a mill will typically require post-processing to parts to remove any burrs and clean the parts. Since tools like a mill are a subtractive technology, it can already hold tight positional/dimensional tolerances. However, as 3D printing is additive manufacturing, it's difficult to hold the same tolerances directly out of the machine as compared to traditional tools.
For this reason, I would suggest planning time for a more traditional process after the print if tolerances and connections are a concern. This could be as simple as using a Dremel or using a mill/lathe. I would recommend increasing your shell/floor/roof settings in your slicer to accommodate the subtractive process though.
> 7 votes
# Answer
A few suggestions I haven't seen explicitly stated in the other answers.
# Export resolution
When you export your STL files you can increase the resolution. If dimensional accuracy is extremely critical, you'll want to confirm that the STL conversion process hasn't altered the dimensions of curved surfaces outside your max min tolerances. I.e. open your STL file in you CAD program and then re-measure the resulting surfaces. STL conversion for holes makes the wholes slightly smaller, and external curved surfaces slightly larger.
# Material Swell
I've noticed on my printer that parts are typically slightly larger when printed. I've managed to account for this in my CAD model by shrinking certain dimensions slightly in CAD prior to exporting them. My dimensions are typically off by about 0.1-0.2mm in XY, which if you're making something with close fits it's worth tweaking the file prior to printing.
# Warping
If I've got a part that needs to be perfectly flat, I'll use a raft with an additional ring (or two) of helper discs surrounding the part. For the flattest side I'll also print this on the build plate. If you've got two or more, best judgement.
# Angled Flats
If i have a part with flat surfaces that are at angles to the the build platform I'll slow my extruder way down, 10mm/s is my go to speed. Keeping the extruder moving slowly will help to ensure that your edges and walls will be relatively smooth and with the least amount of distortion.
# Calibration and setup
Everyone has said it, I'll say it again. Check your printer prior to a critical print. Any sag in your belts will cause drooping, Print a test part to ensure that your temperature settings are good for your filament, and that your extraction distance will minimize stringing.
I do a few test prints with a new filament and again about half way through a roll to ensure everything is still working properly, and if needed I'll tweak things as needed.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I print several pats that use 2.5mm "Pogo pins" which are spring-loaded electric contacts. I've found that many variables will influence the size of the holes I have in my design. Flow, temperature even different brands of filament will change the final size.
I create a profile for each part and specific filament. That way I can make changes without changing other parts/projects. Then I print a test piece with some 2.5mm holes and a few that are a few tenths of a millimeter larger and smaller. I also make holes in the test piece that are vertical and some that are horizontal as I've found that orientation to the layers makes a difference.
I then fit the pins in my test piece and note which orientation and diameter fit best.
After that, I lock down every variable I can think of! I added some desiccant beads to my filament storage bins and found even that increased the diameter of the printed holes.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: desktop-printer, print-preparation
--- |
thread-6316 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6316 | Arduino WEMOS and RAMPS | 2018-07-07T09:31:29.617 | # Question
Title: Arduino WEMOS and RAMPS
I'm thinking of buying an Arduino WEMOS<sup>1</sup> as I am tired with SD card fiddling.
As the ESP8266 chip has 32 Mb (~4 MB) flash memory, I am hoping to be able to push most of the G-code files over the Wi-Fi.
I was trying OctoPi but, having electronic noise issues, the transmission was not stable.
Has anyone tried WEMOS with RAMPS? Is the serial communication stable between ESP and Arduino?
---
<sup>1</sup> Product description is *Mega +WiFi R3 ATmega2560+ESP8266 (32Mb memory), USB-TTL CH340G. Compatible for Arduino Mega, NodeMCU, WeMos ESP8266*
# Answer
> 4 votes
After having looked into them, these boards certainly seem to be rather interesting.
There appear to be two varieties of this board, as I have seen photos with either *RobotDyn*:
rear (from Instructables)
or *WeMos* logos on them.
They *may*, or *may not*, be the same. There is also this one, with just a generic "WiFi" logo (from the eBay page below):
## Memory Discrepancies
However, there is certainly some discrepancy relating to the specification and amount of memory (unless there are a number of variants - which would certainly be possible):
Looking at this article, Instructables - Arduino MEGA 2560 With WiFi Built-in - ESP8266, it isn't *exactly* the ESP8266-12:
> In today's text, we discuss an Arduino that I consider extremely special, as it has an ESP8266 embedded in its board. It doesn’t have the ESP12 soldered onto the board. Instead, it has the Espressif chip. So, on the board you have the built-in Tensilica chip with 4MB of memory, along with the ATmega2560, which is the traditional Arduino Mega.
So the ESP has 4 MB, but where does the 32 Mb come in to play?
Well, looking at this RobotDyn memory table (taken from the Instructables page):
The 4 MB of the ESP appears to have been immediately contradicted and upgraded to 8 MB! The ATmega2560 *somehow* has 32 Mb (which seems a bit of a lie - as there isn't an ATmega2560 *known to man* that has that much memory<sup>2</sup>), and is confused further by the corresponding text:
> As we see in the table above, the ATmega has 32MB of memory, not counting the ESP memory. This is wonderful, since the traditional Mega Arduino has only 256kb of memory.
So `MB` or `Mb`? Is there an additional flash IC external to the ATmega2560? Looking at the schematic, taken from the Russian RobotDyn page, there doesn't appear to be:
So this could be nonsense. Logic would dictate that the ATmega has 256 kB and the ESP has 4 MB... But I could be wrong..?
Links from Контроллер RobotDyn Mega 2560 R3 + WiFi ESP8266b, flash память 8Mbit, USB-TTL CH340G, MicroUSB:
---
## Reliability of communication
Regardless of the actual spec, to address your question of ESP/Arduino communication reliability:
As the ESP8266 and the ATmega2560 are on the *same* board one would assume that the (serial) communication between the two would be faultless. However, some issues have been reported<sup>3</sup>.
Nevertheless, from your question, it seems that you were having issues with the ESP to the OctoPi communication, rather than ESP to Arduino, so maybe this doesn't actually answer your question.
Also, as to their compatibility with RAMPS, there is very little information available currently, and it would seem to be a case of try-it-and-see. The closest I got was this post on the thread, OnStep and RAMPS1.4, but it seems to be spam.
However, it certainly sounds worth a gamble as it would be a nice combination of technologies. However, I would imagine that some modification of the firmware would be necessary.
---
## Useful Notes
* From post #8 of Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 (8 Mb mémoire)
> To upload the sketch to the board:
>
> ```
> 5, 6, 7 ON
> RXD3 - TXD3
>
> ```
>
> To run the sketch:
>
> ```
> 5 and 6 ON
> RXD3 - TXD3
>
> ```
---
## Footnotes
<sup>1</sup> From WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU
> ### WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU
>
> Features:
>
> * Full integration on one board: Mega R3 ATmega2560 and WiFi ESP8266 with memory 32Mb (megabyte)
> * All of the modules can work together or each separately. And everyone has their own pinout headers
> * The convenient solution for the development of new projects requiring Uno and WiFi
> * Via USB you can update sketches and firmware for ATmega2560 and for ESP8266. For this on board have the USB-serial converter CH340G
> * Use this board is very simple
> * The board has DIP-switch, to connect the modules. For example to:
> + USB and ATmeg2560,
> + USB and ESP8266,
> + ATmega2560 and ESP8266
>
> Table DIP- Switch:
>
> ```
> Connection DIP
> 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
> ATmega2560<->ESP8266 ON ON OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF
> USB <->ATmega2560 OFF OFF ON ON OFF OFF OFF
> USB<->ESP8266 (Update firmware or sketch) OFF OFF OFF OFF ON ON ON
> USB<->ESP8266 (communication) OFF OFF OFF OFF ON ON OFF
> All independent OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF
>
> Special solution:
> USB <->ATmega328<-> ESP8266
> Connection DIP SWITCH 2
> 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
>
> USB <-> ATmega2560<-> ESP8266 ON ON ON ON OFF OFF OFF To RXD3/TXD3
>
> ```
> * USB converter CH340G connect to RX0/TX0 of ATmega2560
> * ESP8266 connect to RX3/TX3 of ATmega2560
>
> Size: 10.5x5.3cm/4.13x2.09inch
<sup>2</sup> From the Atmel ATmega640/V-1280/V -1281/V-2560/V-2561/V datasheet
>
<sup>3</sup> From Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 (8 Mb mémoire), there *do* appear to be some issues communicating between the ATmega and the ESP ICs, with a number of users reporting problems.
However, a couple of solutions are provided:
### Solution 1
From post #2
> 1. Set the DIP switch to "special" mode: (`1=on, 2=on, 3=on, 4=on, 5=off, 6=off, 7=off, 8=off`) see the the description of the product.
> 2. Set the switch in RXD3
> 3. Run the below sketch, change the SSID and PASSWORD values. this is just to test that Arduino and ESP8266 are working together. The code originated from BISSA ORBOEA in Element14.
>
> Code:
>
> ```
> #include "ESP8266.h"
>
> #define SSID "YOURSID"
> #define PASSWORD "YOURPASSWORD"
>
> ESP8266 wifi(Serial3,115200);
>
> void setup() {
>
>
> Serial.begin(9600);
>
> Serial.println("Restart");
> wifi.restart();
> delay(1000);
>
> Serial.println("FW Version:");
> Serial.println(wifi.getVersion().c_str());
>
> if (wifi.setOprToStation()) {
> Serial.println("OprToStation ok"); }
> else {
> Serial.println("OprToStation err");
> }
>
> if (wifi.joinAP(SSID, PASSWORD)) {
> Serial.println("Join AP success");
>
> Serial.print("IP:");
> Serial.println( wifi.getLocalIP().c_str());
> } else {
> Serial.println("Join AP failure");
> }
> }
>
>
> void loop()
> {
> }
>
> ```
### Solution 2
From post #6
> First you need to write the code for each board according your application, but in your code you need to establish a commmincation between serial port of Atmega and ESP in both code, again in according you application. Finally, put the switches which make the intenal interconnection between both.
>
> For example, I made a code for ESP to connect in an Access Point and put on a TCP server. When a wireless client is connected in ESP and consequently in the TCP Server, all data send by client I redirect to the serial port. As serial port of ESP is connected with serial 3 of the Atmega, the code in Atmega pass to theat the data from serial 3.
### Solution 3
From post #11
> Follow this if you have the same to my cases:
>
> 1. programm to the ESP(upload sketch) for wifi connection by configure the DIP to 5:on,6:on,7:on and other off.
> 2. program to mega(upload sketch) in case you want to send communication to each other by configure Dip to 3:on,4:on, and other off.
> 3. switch two RX0/TX0(in my case I use Serial.print() and Serial.readString() for communicate between Esp and Mega)
> 4. after you already upload sketch to both Modules you can test communication between them by configure DIP to: 1:on,2:on,3:on,4:on. and then press Reset Button to restart the boards.
> 5. In ESP you can get the string from Mega by if(Serial.available()) Serial.readString(); and In mega you can get data from ESP by : if(Serial.available())Serial.readString().
> 6. After you got a string so you can split or do anything whatever you want.
> 7. If you want send data to Firebase you must use the Firebase Library at the Esp side, in Mega it not support.
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, ramps-1.4
--- |
thread-6511 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6511 | Why is PEEK filament so expensive? | 2018-07-31T07:54:46.837 | # Question
Title: Why is PEEK filament so expensive?
High performance polymers are becoming available for specific applications.
One of such materials is PEEK (PolyEther Ether Ketone), a thermoplastic polymer in the polyaryletherketone (PAEK) family. PEEK competes with certain Aluminium alloys but is half the weight of Aluminium. For aerospace application this sounds very promising!
NASA has shown that printing these types of polymers is feasible using low-cost, open source hardware.
**Does anybody know why the prices of PEEK are so high?**
Depending on the supplier/manufacturer you're looking at about 700 - 900 Euro per kg.
# Answer
> 10 votes
My assumptions about PEEK filament price are:
* Raw material is more expensive. Compare price of ABS with PEEK pellets.
* Demand is much lower. There are not many printers able to print peek. If you manufacture PEEK filament you have to store a filament batch for longer time. Manufacturer has to calculate into price storage space, material degradation, ...
* Filament machine tuning. You have to tune filament extrude machine for PEEK, which takes time because it's a totally different plastic. Maybe there is a cleanup needed after finishing a batch and switching to another material.
* Working conditions. PEEK is quite smelly and I am not sure if you have to improve work conditions like better ventilation.
* Research costs. You have to distribute research costs to a filament production where demand is low.
# Answer
> 9 votes
**Patents** still seem to play a role as well.
I was curious about this question and did a bit of research: If you filter the U.S. patents after 2010 mentioning PEEK and its various applications and improvements, you still get roughly 10,000 patents. Those are not all primarily patents for PEEK, but still.
Even *Victrex PLC*, formerly named *Imperial Chemical Industries*, who filed the first patent for PEEK back in 1978, had a patent published in 2016 for a new PEEK production procedure:
> The process can be used to produce high quality, relatively light coloured polymers having a lower Tm than those produced using a standard PEEK process.
---
Tags: filament
--- |
thread-6342 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342 | What voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at? | 2018-07-09T15:42:07.727 | # Question
Title: What voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?
I am pondering about buying a Creality Ender-3, and I am honestly confused about some reviews. Some claim it is running 24 V, one did claim it was 12 V, most don't mention it. Since I know about some issues with the clamps, if I get myself an Ender-3, I want to replace the hotend with a proper one from day one. So knowing its voltage is needed to order the right parts.
# Answer
Bearing in mind that the specifications on Amazon's page are sometimes not 100% (even though they are *in this case*), it is always best to check on the manufacturer's website.
From Creality3D's own website, Creality3D.shop, on the Creality3D Ender-3 product page, Creality3D Ender-3 3D Printer Economic Ender DIY KITS, the specifications are given as (emphasis is mine):
> ##ender-3 Machine Parameter:
>
> * Modeling Technology：FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling）
> * Printing Size：220*220*250mm
> * Machine Size：440*410*465mm
> * Package weight：8kg Max
> * Traveling Speed：180mm/s
> * Filament：1.75mm PLA,TPU,ABS
> * **Input：AC 100-265V 50-60Hz**
> * ***Output：DC 24V 15A 360W***
> * Layer Thickness：0.1-0.4mm
> * Nozzle diameter：0.4mm
> * Precision：±0.1mm
> * File Format：STL,OBJ,G-Code
> * Working Mode：Online or SD offline
> * Max Nozzle Temperature：255℃
> * Max Hot bed Temperature：110℃
> 9 votes
# Answer
After checking the amazon listings of the ender-3, they contain more information than the gearbest listing: indeed it is a **24V** machine.
> Product description
>
> \[...\]
>
> **Output: DC 24 V 15 A 360 W**
>
> \[...\]
> 3 votes
# Answer
The Ender 3 and the CR-10 printers use the same board which runs on both 12V and 24V. I have one of each and have to be careful swapping parts between the two.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: creality-ender-3, replacement-parts
--- |
thread-5927 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5927 | Dual PSU with one switch fuse | 2018-05-07T05:42:15.197 | # Question
Title: Dual PSU with one switch fuse
My home built printer has been having issues running properly. The x/y/z motors will run freely with standard non build position commands but when they are suppose to start a raft layer and they freeze up and don't respond properly. When I put my hands on my x/y motors they're cold as if no power is getting through, yet they ran just a moment before. I currently have a variable PSU which allows from 0-48v power output. I started turning the supply up and as I reached about 34v I noticed the motors started to run properly but my board did not regulate the power and instead started pushing the power through all of the ouptuts activating the second empty extruder and causing the heat on my extruders to rise to an extreme 300°C vaporizing my PLA. Ever since this incident my board continues to attempt to push power through all outputs regardless of the power output settings (ie if I set the output on my PSU to 11v, the motherboard still activates all motors and heaters) I am curious if I were to use 2 24v PSUs in parallel (or a series) if that would allow my motors to get the power they need without putting strain on my motherboard.
# Answer
> 1 votes
@TomvanderZanden's comment is right. You have probably damaged your motherboard and/or driver boards by applying 34 volts. You should never exceed rated voltages.
It might help to study stepper motor driver circuits a bit. Stepper drivers usually act as current sources, not as voltage sources. They typically have a high-frequency switch that applies pulses of voltage so that the current through the inductance of the motor matches the current needs for the desired step position. Motors generate torque from the strength of the magnetic fields, with is linearly related to the current through the coil. The voltage drives the current, but the current cannot change instantaneously in an inductive circuit. Unless the motors have an uncommonly high coil resistance, two to five average volts will be enough to provide the maximum current.
The motors are pretty insensitive to the voltage applied, as long as the current meets the specifications. The motor driver chips are sensitive to the applied voltage. They are sensitive because the internal switches and logic can only withstand certain voltages, and they are sensitive because the circuits assume that the current won't change too quickly. If the current gets so high that the magnetic material in motor saturates, the inductance suddenly becomes much lower, and the current can spike to very high levels. This current spike can destroy drivers.
Heaters also have a voltage spec. The heaters I've seen are specified for 12 or 24 volts. To avoid burning out, a heater must have a low enough thermal resistance to the object being heated that the inner heater temperature is not so high that the heating element is damaged. Powering a 12v heater from 34 volts would cause the current to increase by a factor of 34/12 = 2.83. The power would be that ratio squared because both the current and the voltage are higher. The heaters, whenever they were on, would be generating 8.02 times the power. This might not result in the good behavior of the heater control systems, and could damage the FETs which are driving the heaters.
As for changing the power supply, before doing that I would want to check that the power supply was not supplying the needed voltage and current.
When you've replaced the motherboard and drivers, and configured the drivers for the required operating current, attach a voltmeter to the power supply. Turn on all the heaters, power up the otors, and watch the supply voltage. If it remains true (say, within 15%), the power supply isn't the problem. If the voltage dips, or pulses, or does anything other than staying stable, I would consider a higher current (not higher voltage) supply. Connecting two supplies in series causes problems with the ground reference of one of the supplies. Connecting two supplies in parallel, unless they are designed for that use, often isn't any better than a single supply because they will not necessarily share the load well.
Good luck! I look forward to further questions.
---
Tags: pla, 3d-design, diy-3d-printer, electronics, switching-power-supply
--- |
thread-6525 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6525 | Out-gassing of printed material when heated | 2018-08-01T14:28:24.807 | # Question
Title: Out-gassing of printed material when heated
We know from this answer, 3d printed materials continue to outgas after printing and being cured. My question relates to this:
* How much does heating the printed object after printing (or being cured) affect out-gassing?
* Does the continued out-gassing degrade the stability/quality of the print?
# Answer
> 3 votes
This is not an answer to your question, but it relates to outgassing so I am sharing it here.
I have used the acetone vapor method of smoothing the surface of ABS prints. It works really well, and the surface becomes much smoother and glassy. I printed a large coffee mug (lets, for the moment, ignore food safety issues) and made it very smooth.
After a couple of weeks to allow the acetone to fully evaporate, I poured a nice, hot cup of tea. Unfortunately, the acetone had not fully left the print, and the surface was immediately covered with dozens of bubbles as the acetone evaporated and pushed against the ABS.
This effect was only because of the acetone. Another cup that had not been vapor smoothed worked perfectly and was unaffected by the hot water.
I have not seen similar outgassing from PLA, ABS, Nylon, or PETG.
If I may hazard an opinion about the substance of your question...
I don't think that outgassing is the biggest contributor to the aging of prints and their properties changing. I suspect that (perhaps not in order) these are larger factors:
1. exposure to UV light. UV light breaks polymer bonds and reduces the strength of plastic.
2. absorption of water vapor, which can both expand the material which causes stress, and chemically break polymer bonds.
3. long-term crystallization of the material
4. fatigue from repeated sub-failure stress
NASA used to have resources that spoke to outgassing rates related to suitability for space applications.
# Answer
> -1 votes
The effect of temperature on outgas rates is a subject for Engineering.SE . As to continued outgassing - depends on the material in question. To pick an extreme example, solid CO2 (dry ice) will outgas until it's gone. But stuff that's got VOCs is expected to outgas; said volatiles leave by design and the remaining material stands on its own.
---
Tags: print-material, safety
--- |
thread-5048 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5048 | Thermal degradation of 3D printed ABS (and other plastics) | 2017-11-29T05:34:03.357 | # Question
Title: Thermal degradation of 3D printed ABS (and other plastics)
The short version of my question is:
> *Are 3D printed parts made of ABS likely to survive for **one year** in an incubator at **80℃**?*
Please read on for more details.
I am printing some parts that will be used inside an incubator in a lab. They are likely to be used at 80℃ for at least a year, possibly even at higher temperatures than that. (But most likely under 100℃.)
We're currently using ABS for these parts. My question is whether 3D printed ABS will degrade under those conditions. (For example: will it become soft and slump; will it discolour; will it become brittle?) The parts clip together to form quite a big object, which is basically a rack holding a lot of glass vials, so it's important that it stays rigid.
I did find some papers on thermal degradation of ABS (for example this one looks quite comprehensive) but I don't have the experience to interpret them in terms of how my parts will behave practically. I'm also not sure if being 3D printed will make a difference.
If ABS is not suitable for this kind of application, are there other plastics that are? We're using the Zortrax M200, so our choices are the plastics listed here. I note that PCABS is listed as specifically being temperature resistant, so we might go with that - but we'd prefer ABS if it will work, since it comes in white rather than ivory (which is important for our application) and we have plenty of it available.
---
**update:** we decided in the end that using ABS is too risky, so we went with PCABS and we'll just live with the yellowish colour. (We might paint it white.) It's currently in the oven on a test run, and if it doesn't fail in a few weeks we'll take the risk of running the year-long experiment with this material. However, we would still *very greatly* appreciate advice from anyone who has concrete knowledge or experience of this kind of situation.
# Answer
To answer your question briefly: **No, ABS will not survive for a duration of at least one year at 80-100°C**.
If you look at the chart above (from Tiganis/Burn), you'll notice, that the blue line (ABS 90°C) is decreasing. I did an eyeball calculation of the graph and arrived at the equation (`J` for *break energy*, `h` for *hours*):
```
J = -0.002h + 14
```
Based on that, a break energy of 0 Joule will be reached after *7056 hours or 294 days*.
If you roam around internet forums on 3D printing, you'll find that that value is in the ballpark of people's experiences. I remember one case, where someone put out a piece of ABS in the sun and it broke down after a year.
Tiganis; Burn: The Effects of Heat Aging on Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene (ABS) Blends. In: Lacasse; Vanier (1999): Durability of Building Materials and Components 8, pp. 912-922.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I would recommend Taulman Bluprint, which has a T<sub>g</sub> of 100 °C and prints around 250 °C.
I got a small sample and it printed well with the recommended settings. I didn't do any thermal testing with my print (I made a knob for a lawn mower with it) but Taulman has a solid reputation for engineered filaments.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Your ABS filament is likely to be different than the ABS the paper is talking about, at the minimum the filament has added coloring (ABS is not naturally white), its possible it has other additives to make it easier to extrude and - especially for low cost ABS - it's also possible it has other random contaminant.
The "same" material from different manufacturers is often very obviously different (for low cost filament, different batches from the same manufacturer are sometimes different) so, even if someone here did have experience with cooking ABS for a year, you can never be sure your ABS will work the same as their ABS.
If the information is not in the material data sheet you can try to contact the manufacturer, other then that, you really have no way of knowing other then trying for yourself.
> 0 votes
# Answer
heat it up see what happens also take into consideration additional support in case it degrades its still holding up. if possible give it somekind of protective coat. someone said paint but can you add a coat of resin or ceramic?
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-material, filament-choice
--- |
thread-6535 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6535 | Controlling more fans with RAMPS board | 2018-08-02T12:25:20.660 | # Question
Title: Controlling more fans with RAMPS board
I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin. With Marlin, you can control a large number of fans with the `M106 P<fan index>` command. I'd like RAMPS to control some additional fans, independent of layer fan. Are there free pins on RAMPS 1.4 to do that? Otherwise, could I setup the RAMPS board to send a command to a separate Arduino? I also have Octoprint if that makes it easier.
# Answer
> 4 votes
From the sources of Marlin you can find how may fans you can use, even if you're not a coder it should be doable. From there you can find how to set the pins for the fans, provided that there are free unused and exposed (so that you do not have so solder directly to the microprocessor). First find how many fans are possible.
Starting in Marlin\_main.cpp and searching for `106` (or `106` on the Marlin GitHub website) will lead you to the sources of the execution of the `M106` command. Below a snippet of `M106` and `M107` is shown. The reason for `M107` to be there becomes clear later.
```
#if FAN_COUNT > 0
/**
* M106: Set Fan Speed
*
* S<int> Speed between 0-255
* P<index> Fan index, if more than one fan
*
* With EXTRA_FAN_SPEED enabled:
*
* T<int> Restore/Use/Set Temporary Speed:
* 1 = Restore previous speed after T2
* 2 = Use temporary speed set with T3-255
* 3-255 = Set the speed for use with T2
*/
inline void gcode_M106() {
const uint8_t p = parser.byteval('P');
if (p < FAN_COUNT) {
#if ENABLED(EXTRA_FAN_SPEED)
const int16_t t = parser.intval('T');
if (t > 0) {
switch (t) {
case 1:
fanSpeeds[p] = old_fanSpeeds[p];
break;
case 2:
old_fanSpeeds[p] = fanSpeeds[p];
fanSpeeds[p] = new_fanSpeeds[p];
break;
default:
new_fanSpeeds[p] = MIN(t, 255);
break;
}
return;
}
#endif // EXTRA_FAN_SPEED
const uint16_t s = parser.ushortval('S', 255);
fanSpeeds[p] = MIN(s, 255U);
}
}
/**
* M107: Fan Off
*/
inline void gcode_M107() {
const uint16_t p = parser.ushortval('P');
if (p < FAN_COUNT) fanSpeeds[p] = 0;
}
#endif // FAN_COUNT > 0
```
Looking at this code, the first thing (actually the first line, `#if FAN_COUNT > 0`, already hints to that) that catches your attention is constant `FAN_COUNT`. Apparently the software knows how much fans are defined! Interesting! How does it know that! This piece of code ends just after handling the `M107` command (line `#endif // FAN_COUNT > 0`), hence it is displayed here.
Continuing the search by finding how `FAN_COUNT` is set (using the search on GitHub for the Marlin repository) leads to file Conditionals\_post.h. An interesting part is:
```
/**
* Up to 3 PWM fans
*/
#if HAS_FAN2
#define FAN_COUNT 3
#elif HAS_FAN1
#define FAN_COUNT 2
#elif HAS_FAN0
#define FAN_COUNT 1
#else
#define FAN_COUNT 0
#endif
```
So depending on `HAS_FANx` (where x denotes 0, 1 or 2) you can have multiple fans, up to 3 in total! Cool, learned something in the process. :)
Let's now search for `HAS_FANx`; in the same file you will find:
```
// Other fans
#define HAS_FAN0 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN))
#define HAS_FAN1 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN1) && CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E3_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN)
#define HAS_FAN2 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN2) && CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E3_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN)
```
Now we are getting into clear water! This codes hints to `FAN1_PIN` and `FAN2_PIN`. If you look into you pin layout file, e.g. pins\_RAMPS.h you see that that are the pin constants that need to be defined, actually `FAN1_PIN` is e.g. set if you choose an "EFF" configuration (Hotend, Fan0, Fan1), e.g. `#define FAN1_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN`.
What is left for you to do is find an unused pin of your micro-controller and set the `FAN2_PIN` with `#define FAN2_PIN <a free pin number>`.
E.g. pin 4 is not a used pin number (and an analog output pin). Don't forget that the pin you choose cannot directly run a fan, it should be used to schedule a MOSFET.
Note that a dual external fan header "Reprap Ramps1.4 RRD Fan Extender" exists, this describes using the D6 and D11 pins. Further investigation led to a 3D.SE posting using this fan header: "How to configure Marlin to enable auto-fans with dual extruder".
---
Tags: marlin, ramps-1.4, octoprint, print-fan
--- |
thread-264 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/264 | When to use 1.75 mm vs 3 mm filament? | 2016-01-15T07:04:09.510 | # Question
Title: When to use 1.75 mm vs 3 mm filament?
Why do we have two standard filament sizes, 1.75 mm and 3 mm? Does it really make a difference when printing? Or is the 1.75 mm just for smaller printers?
In what situations should I be using 1.75 mm?
When should I be using 3 mm?
# Answer
There's no appreciable difference. Just use the filament that fits your particular printer.
If you don't yet have a printer, then I'd get one that uses 1.75 mm filament:
* 1.75 mm is increasingly becoming the "standard", thus being easier to get. Some filaments are not available as 3 mm.
* 1.75 mm filament allows for finer control, because feeding in 1 mm of filament corresponds to less plastic extruded.
* 1.75 mm filament requires less force to extrude. Compressing 1.75 mm down to 0.3 mm takes less force than doing the same to 3 mm filament.
However, the advantages are fairly minor. I don't see any reason to replace a functioning 3 mm extruder with a 1.75 mm one (yet).
> 33 votes
# Answer
There are a few factors to consider those two:
**3 mm**
* More rigid - easier to print with flexible plastics. I couldn't make my 1.75 mm printer print with NinjaFlex using standard Bowden extruder.
* Can extrude faster
* Quality is less affected by changes in diameter - it is a concern mostly when using cheap plastics
**1.75 mm**
* More popular, easier to buy
* Needs smaller extruder than 3 mm
* Easier to use with Bowden tube
* More precise when printing
> 21 votes
# Answer
I generally agree with the points in masteusz's and Tom van der Zanden's answers, but I would add a bit more detail. Generally, the differences are minimal, however:
* Generally speaking, a 1.75 mm filament will make it easier to use a smaller nozzle diameter (\<0.4 mm), allowing for more precise prints in some cases.
* 1.75 mm filament will give you better flexibility with flow rates as it has a higher surface to volume ratio, allowing for faster melting in the nozzle, and allowing you to push your printer to higher volume extrusion rates.
* The converse of the above points is also usually true. "3 mm" filament (which is usually actually 2.85 mm) will allow for better control and higher extrusion rates on wider nozzle diameters.
* 1.75 mm filament is indeed more popular than 2.85 mm, however the smaller diameter means that manufacturing tolerances really need to be tighter along the length of the filament—a ±0.1 mm difference in width along the length of your filament is only ±3.5 % for 2.85 mm and more like ±6.7 % for 1.75 mm, so you're going to have a bigger difference in actual flow rates compared to your expected flow rate set in your slicer, resulting in lower-than-expected print quality. That means you're probably going to want to spring for more expensive, higher quality 1.75 mm filament in order to get good prints.
* Your printer's hardware setup matters, too: Bowden-based printers, like the Ultimaker 2, generally have more luck with the thicker filament because thinner stuff will usually compress more in the Bowden tube and create a stronger spring effect, causing extra pressure in the nozzle. This will often cause blobbing, stringing, and over-extrusion and hamper the positive effect of your retractions.
Ultimately, you can tune your printer and slicer settings to create or negate most any of the differences in print quality caused by filament diameter, but you may have an easier time with certain prints and printers with one diameter over the other.
> 17 votes
# Answer
I think (as do a lot of others) that the differences are rather minor. So just my 2 things I know from experience. We've been using 3 mm for some years and now we are moving towards 1.75.
1.75 mm filament is very easy to entangle, especially, if it is not on spool. You can even easily create knots on the filament and it is very hard to untangle. As long as you keep it on spool and always buy on spool, you should be fine.
3 mm filament on the other hand, creates very high tension when the spool is about to end. Sometimes the last couple of meters are unusable because of this and you have to throw the rest of the spool away.
> 11 votes
# Answer
As I read the history, 3 mm filament was an accident of the supply chain when 3D filament printers were first being developed by hobbyists. There was a product called a "plastic welder" which consisted of a melting device and a source of filler material. This filler was 3 mm plastic.
As the techniques and equipment developed, the market for filament grew to a size where it could support companies producing filament specifically for 3D printing. The benefits of 1.75 mm filament over 3 mm were, IMO, huge -- especially the easier melting and lower force needed by the extruder.
Except for special purposes like pushing soft plastics through Bowden tubes, it seems from the marketplace that 1.75 mm filament as completely overtaken 3 mm filament.
A possible second-order disadvantage of 1.75 mm filament can be water absorption. The surface-to-volume ratio is higher -- there is more surface per unit of the filament through which water vapor can be absorbed. It is important to keep filament dry, and sometimes necessary with both 3 mm and 1.75 mm to dry the filament in an oven before use.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I agree with all the answers above but only would like to add if you want to build a very large printer using 0.8 mm or 1.2 mm nozzle, i would advice to go 3 mm. 1.75 mm filament then just can't be fed in fast enough.
> 0 votes
# Answer
One thing I haven't seen anyone mention yet is the issue of the size vis-a-vis time of the final print. 3 mm filament allows the printer to spit out a ***lot*** of plastic at once, letting you build must taller prints much faster. Larger filament can also provide a much wider base for the next layer to rest on; smaller filament needs to print multiple times side-by-side to get the same width.
Of course the fineness of the layers will suffer, but you can go about twice as high in one pass compared to when you use the smaller filament. On the flip side, the smaller filament will more easily print extremely fine layers than the bigger filament. So it's a trade off.
Consider the printers building items feet or tens of feet in height. They use "filaments" that are measured in centimeters or decimeter a instead of millimeters.
> -1 votes
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Tags: fdm, filament, extruder
--- |
thread-6524 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6524 | What are the specifications of the dual voltage controller of the Ender 3/CR-10? | 2018-08-01T12:47:21.620 | # Question
Title: What are the specifications of the dual voltage controller of the Ender 3/CR-10?
Following on from What level of voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?
Dave's answer states that both 12 V and 24 V can be used on the controller board. It also goes on to say that the controller board is used in both configurations in two different printers:
* Ender 3 and;
* CR-10
I would like to know how this dual voltage operation works:
* Does it use both voltages at the same time, or either one or the other?
* Are there two different electrical inlets or are they the same?
* Does it auto-detect or are there jumpers used to configure or are the components tolerant to both voltage levels?
Also related:
* What is the board used?
* Is the board a proprietary design or a standard third party board?
* Does anyone have any photos of the board and/or schematics?
# Answer
> 5 votes
I own the Ender 3, and it runs on 24V, as this photo of the power supply shows:
From power supply to the board, it uses a 2-wire line connected with a XT60 plug/jack that is common on RC cars:
The board itself is a proprietary design and labeled as "V1.1.2". The Voltage in is the lowest input on the left:
The Cooling fan (blue-yellow wire), the hotend cooling fan, heater cartridge (white shielded), bed heater (left black-red), board cooling fan (middle red-black) run (in this setup) on 24V. The Logic connectors (black-black & White-white) run 5V logic. I could not figure out the voltage of the stepper motors (upper row).
I have not figured out how the power management circut works, but it achieves this:
* Supply voltage $ U\_S = 12\ \text V \lor 24\ \text V $
* Logic Voltage $ U\_L = 5\ \text V $
* Sensor Voltage $ U\_{sens} = U\_L$
* Hotend Cooling Fan $ U\_{cool} = U\_S$
* Hotend Heating Cartridge $ U\_{hot} = U\_S $
* Heatbed $ U\_{bed} = U\_S $
The chip's caption can't be read on the photo, but it is labeled as "Δ ATMEL // ATMEGA1284P // AU 1726"
For the pinout, a german maker did determine, that it the configuration of a Sanguino equipped with an Atmega1284P 16Bit works for compiling firmware and flashing via a bootloader.
# Answer
> 3 votes
This answer addresses the input voltage. If you look up the official replacement board at the official Creality store the board features a single pair of connectors next to it says: 12 V / 24 V. So you can either use 12 V, or 24 V, not both. An internal regulator will most probably reduce the voltage anyways.
Please note that (kindly reminded by user profesor79 through the comments) that the microprocessor on these boards only use 5 V. So any voltage you supply (12 or 24 V), the voltage regulator will always make sure the microprocessor does not get more than 5 V. However, that does not necessarily apply to all peripherals connected to the board! This should be verified if for the peripherals also a voltage regulator is used. One of my own boards, the RUMBA board can be fed by any voltage ranging from 12 V - 35 V, but this also applies to the peripherals like the heater cartridge and the fans! I use the RUMBA with a 24 V power supply, so I need to use 24 V fans heater elements and heat bed.
---
Tags: electronics, creality-cr-10, creality-ender-3
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thread-6541 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6541 | How to eliminate stringing and regulate flow rate? | 2018-08-03T19:42:13.433 | # Question
Title: How to eliminate stringing and regulate flow rate?
I have been having a problem with stringing on my 3D printer, so initially I **increased retraction distance from 6.5 mm to 8 mm.** Then I tried again, with the same issue, so I **increased retraction speed and lowered the extruder temperature.** Same problem. Over and over. After I did each of these, I have since **decreased move speed, increased minimum layer time, put fan on full blast**, and nothing has seemed to increase print quality.
I realize this is a lot of alterations to be making, but I'm not sure what to do next. I am using 1.75 mm PLA and a Monoprice Select V2.
# Answer
Stringing can be fought by increasing the retraction length, but 6.5 mm (the default in Ultimaker Cura) is already pretty much. Please do note that too much retraction can lead to sucking air into the nozzle, which can lead to air pockets/holes.
Basically there are 3 mechanisms that are in play:
* Retraction
* Temperature
* Speed
You have tried changing multiple parameters already. You may have better luck in reducing the temperature of the nozzle even further, start with a decrease of 5 °C. All that is left to do is increasing the travel speed.
There are many stringing test prints to print to fine tune stringing.
> 3 votes
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Tags: pla, monoprice-maker-select
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thread-6260 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6260 | Line width changes depending on the direction the print head moves | 2018-06-29T10:25:09.957 | # Question
Title: Line width changes depending on the direction the print head moves
I just re-ran all basic calibration steps from the Original Prusa i3 MK2 Manual.
Now, when doing the first layer calibration, lines that are running in positive X direction are ok, while those running in negative X direction are severely squished.
*(The "waviness" of my print bed is an artifact of the camera lens distortion of my smartphone)*
I already did Bed level correction, so each line is exactly the same width over its entire distance and tried to raise the live-adjust Z, but that leads to the thin lines not adhering at all. My printer is 100% stock, I modified nothing about it.
What can I do to troubleshoot this further?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Due to the advice from @0scar i formulate my answer in the comments as a proper answer ;)
Check the nozzle, if it is in shape and good condition. I scratched my nozzle over the metal heat bed by accident...it becomes nasty... and produced inconsistent line widths. Since the metal of most nozzles is brass it is easy to machine...and easy to deform. And since you will need several nozzles over time get some new ones and try with them.
Also not every new nozzle will be perfect, so defect products happen, especially if they are cheap and have really tight measurements.
# Answer
> 3 votes
As pointed at by @Horitsu, the Nozzle was the problem. Its outflowing hole was not perfectly round anymore, leading to a higher extrusion rate in one direction than others.
I exchanged it, and now everything works great again!
---
Tags: prusa-i3, print-quality, fdm, calibration, troubleshooting
--- |
thread-1404 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1404 | Can aged PLA be refurbished? | 2016-06-22T12:35:46.923 | # Question
Title: Can aged PLA be refurbished?
Inspired by another question and due to the fact that some of my filament will face the same problem when I will use them again, I wanted to know if there are proven recipies to get rid of water that has ben incorporated to PLA filament from humidity? One knows the filament had too much exposure to humidity when hearing tiny puffs during extrusion and/or more brittle prints.
I know about suggestions to heat the water out of the filament at a temperature well below the glass transition temperature, but can someone provide first hand knowledge or even evidence?
# Answer
> 28 votes
**The easiest way to freshen up filament is hot air, although there are other options.**
There is an optimal melt processing *moisture level* for every plastic, typically in the range of 0.1-0.2% water content by weight. But the equilibrium moisture content of most plastics in humid air can be more like 1%. As a consequence, **hot air dehydration is standard practice** to prepare plastic pellets for extrusion in industry. Pretty much every injection-molded and extruded plastic product in the world -- including 3d printer filament -- is made with pre-dried pellets. Hot air is blown through the pellets until they are below the moisture limit.
Different plastics tolerate extrusion with different amounts of moisture, and absorb different amounts of moisture. They can also tolerate different drying temperatures. So the ideal storage and drying conditions vary by material.
* **PLA** absorbs relatively little moisture, but in humid environments can accumulate enough water content to cause steam bubbles during extrusion. In some cases, steam bubbles can contribute to hot end jamming. Extreme wetness has been known to cause swelling that can increase filament feed drag. It's arguable whether wetness actually causes brittleness, or if that is a separate aging issue. People who keep their homes below ~50% relative humidity usually don't have any problems. Leaving PLA in a dry environment for a week or two should adequately re-dry it, or it can be gently heated to about 120F / 50C for a couple hours. (Some people dry it hotter. but that risks deforming the filament.)
* **ABS** also doesn't absorb very much water, but perhaps a little more than PLA. It also experiences steam bubbles, but that's typically the only issue. Homes below ~45% RH usually don't have problems. Storing ABS with fresh silica gel for a couple weeks will dry it. Or it can be oven-dried up to about 180F / 80C for an couple hours. **HIPS** can be treated the same.
* The kind of PET used in plastic bottles is rapidly degraded into tar by hydrolysis when melted with any significant water content. So **PETG** filaments are specially blended to absorb less water and to be less damaged by water than PET. But there is still the possibility of bubbles and cloudy strands due to steam expansion at higher temperatures, and there is some evidence that wet PETG produces weaker, more brittle prints than dry PETG. Different manufacturers' blends require different conditions: some people report Taulman t-glase needs oven-drying and careful storage while Esun PETG is fairly tolerant of normal home humidity levels. Oven-drying at 150F / 65C should work well.
* **Nylon** absorbs a huge amount of water, which causes it to swell considerably, produce massive steam bubbles, look cloudy, warp more, and adhere less than properly-dried nylon. It's nearly unprintable when wet. It should be oven-dried at around 150F / 65C for 4+ hours -- desiccant will not strip enough moisture from it. In fact, nylon will pull water out of used silica gel! Once dry, it should be stored with an aggressive desiccant (either bone-dry silica or preferably calcium chloride). It only takes a few hours of exposure to air for it to become excessively moist. Building a sealed drybox feed system is highly recommended to avoid exposed time during and between prints.
* **Polycarbonate** is similar to nylon in that is is an aggressive water-absorber. It will look cloudy, produce steam bubbles, warp more, and provide very poor layer bonding when wet. It should be oven-dried at 180F / 80C if on a plastic spool (up to 250F / 120C if dried alone) for 4+ hours and then stored in a drybox with aggressive desiccant just like nylon. Note that some modern PC blends like Esun ePC are less prone to water absorption, at the cost of some decrease in mechanical properties.
* **PVA** is basically destroyed by airborne humidity, since it literally dissolves in water. Store in a drybox with an aggressive desiccant at all times.
Composite filaments should be treated like the base material.
Some drying and prevention options:
* **Oven**: The "warm" setting will usually work pretty well. Let the oven preheat and settle out for a while, and measure temperature with a good oven thermometer or thermocouple. Shield the filament from direct radiant heating and hot spots with aluminum foil, cookie sheets, etc. Electric ovens will dry faster than gas ovens, because burning natural gas produces some additional moisture. Do not leave the oven unattended if using temperatures above the glass point of the filament, or bad things may happen!
* **"Light bucket"**: A 5-gallon plastic bucket with an incandescent lightbulb inside is a pretty effective way to gently warm low-temp filament like PLA for drying or medium-term storage. Leave the lid slightly open if drying.
* **Food dehydrator**: Works great. Set temperatures as per the oven temps above. The main challenge is getting a large enough space inside for a filament spool.
* **Desiccant**: In order for desiccant to actively dry filament, it must be significantly more attractive to water than the filament is. And affinity for water is a function of how wet the material already is. That means dry desiccant can easily pull some water out of very wet filament, but wet desiccant can actually give water TO the filament! Rechargeable indicator desiccant (such as an *Eva-Dry E-333* unit) is ideal. It's also important to have ENOUGH desiccant: silica gel can only absorb 10% of its weight in water at 20% RH. That means to pull 1% moisture content out of a wet 1kg spool, you would need to start with at least 100g of bone-dry, fresh-baked silica! "Used" silica is basically useless, it already contains too much water to pull any more from the filament. But you can re-dry the silica in an oven. 250F / 120C for 6 hours should be safe for all types of silica gel, but more aggressive drying (including microwave drying) is possible for some silica gels. Follow the gel manufacturer instructions.
* **Rice**: Does not work. It's basically a myth that rice has drying power. A bag of rice you buy at the store is already pretty close to moisture equilibrium with the air, so it has minimal capacity to pull water from filament (or a soaked iPhone, for that matter). If you dry the rice in an oven to drive out its water first, it will work to some degree, but silica gel is considerably more effective.
* **Kitty litter**: Silica gel style kitty litter is nearly identical to desiccant silica gel. Like rice, it is fairly close to saturated when you open the container, but can be dried in the oven to be a good cheap bulk desiccant. Clay type kitty litter is not as effective. Be careful of getting kitty litter dust all over your filament.
* **Dry storage** A thick plastic box with an airtight seal is preferable. Look for recycling code 2 (HDPE) or 5 (PP) on the box. 5 gallon buckets with sealing lids also work fine. Ziplocks and other thin plastic bags are better than nothing, but are permeable to water (yes, really) and can only be relied on as long as there is fresh desiccant in the bag. Acrylic/plexiglas dryboxes have been sold by various people, but acrylic is very permeable to water, so I don't recommend that option.
* **Air conditioning**: Simply keeping the air in your printing environment reasonably dry will protect PLA and ABS and other low-absorption filaments. It may help to buy a humidity monitor to get an understanding of your ambient humidity.
Now, considering the original question here, it's important to note that moisture content is not the only way filament can age or be damaged. PLA in particular is prone to becoming brittle over time. There are different theories for why this occurs. One is gradual chemical aging because poly(lactic acid) simply is not a very stable polymer. Moisture could contribute to that aging process, but true chemical aging would be irreversible even if the filament is later dried. How much this occurs should depend on the specific polymer blend and storage conditions.
Another theory for PLA aging is that the residual filament extrusion stresses (from being drawn down to the correct diameter and rapidly quenched in a water bath) are slowly creeping over time. Anyone who has placed a PLA part under heavy load for more than a few weeks will see PLA creep. It's a rather odd polymer in that it will "creep to failure" and crack at very low creep elongations rather than progressively deform in a ductile manner like most creep-prone materials. So if the PLA has significant stresses locked-in from the initial extrusion process (which is very common) it may be creeping into a more brittle arrangement of polymer molecules over time. That would explain the aging effect, and it would explain why "drying" sometimes rejuvenates the PLA: heating the filament near its glass point will allow the polymer molecules to gently relax and basically anneal to a less brittle state.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Storing PLAs in plastic zip locks along with Silica Gel helps with extraction of water from PLAs. If you don't have silica gel, grains of rice can be other work around for serving the purpose.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Be aware that zip-lock bags may not be perfectly air-tight or probably humidity-tight - but much better than nothing.
I have a food vacuum bagger, and have vacuum-sealed zipper type bags and placed them in the refrigerator, where they do not maintain their tight fit, i.e. air is seeping in.
I haven't done a study, but bags tagged for the freezer should be better, I know they are thicker.
"America's Test Kitchen" tried various bags, and liked the Ziploc brand double-zipper freezer bags. To my amazement, a spool of filament "just" fits a gallon bag (YAY!).
If you can get true food-vacuum bags large enough for a spool for long-term storage, this is the best way.
I was pleased to learn what I SHOULD have known, namely that UV can be a factor -- and until right now had been storing my filament inside an east window that gets sun.
---
Calcium chloride is an excellent desiccant - often sold as a "closet dehumidifier", or in cold climates, as a very inexpensive by-the-bag ice melting "salt" (check the ingredients).
In absorbing moisture, the CaCl<sub>2</sub> puddles, and is harmful such as to leather, so be sure you empty the liquid and refresh the crystals occasionally.
A US$7 humidity gauge may be purchased (Amazon, eBay, etc) and placed in a container with filament and desiccant to see how it is doing.
/Ward C, inventor of Xmodem & BBSs
# Answer
> 0 votes
Keep in mind gas ovens produce water when the gas is burned, so it isn't as effective as an electric oven for drying.
Silica desiccant is excellent for drying filament, but you will want at least some of the desiccant beads to be "indicating" type. That is they show a color change when saturated with moisture. Silica desiccant can be recharged in a 220 °F (104 °C) oven, and can withstand a higher temperature than the filament, and it expels water when warm even though a lot is present in a gas oven. Indicating silica is typically blue or orange dry, pink or green when wet. If you have white silica beads with just a small percentage of indicating beads in it, they will equalize in moisture so the indicating beads can be trusted to indicate for the whole batch. Non-indicating silica is cheaper and can be spiked with a small dose of indicating beads.
I use an x-large (~5 gallon) double zipper ziploc "big bag" with my entire supply of filament inside, along with a cloth bag holding 2.5 pounds of indicating silica beads. Even if the ziploc seal isn't perfect, the silica will maintain a low humidity until spent. It is rated to reduce humidity to 40 % and hold 40 % by weight in water (not the 10 % mentioned above, past 40 % water and the humidity will rise past 40 %), but in my 46 % rh (relative humidity) house, my filament bag dropped to 15 % rh within 20 minutes (measured with a HVAC humidity meter). The 2.5 pounds (1.1 kg) of silica can absorb 1 pound of water (0.45 kg). You can weigh your silica to get an indication of how much water is in it. I stored my filament in a vacuum chamber for a week while I waited for my order of desiccant to arrive, so the filament was quite dry before I filled the bag. The vacuum chamber is not practical for storage as you have to evacuate it every time you open it, and it doesn't hold much.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I have turned unusable PLA into filament that printed well by putting it in a dry oven for a couple of hours. I've used 90 degrees C (194 degrees F), which may be too hot as it distorts round filament to be flat sided as the filament softens and relieves stresses. It printed well. Perhaps 70 degrees C (158 degrees F) would less deform the filament.
Today I have a large plastic bin with rolls of filament and three color-changing rechargeable drying cartridges. As soon as they look other than absolutely dry, I plug them in to recharge. It may be insufficient for PETG and Nylon -- I don't yet have much experience.
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Tags: filament, pla, repair
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thread-6554 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6554 | First layer of print comes out poorly even when placed on a raft (which prints fine) | 2018-08-05T00:21:28.250 | # Question
Title: First layer of print comes out poorly even when placed on a raft (which prints fine)
I'm printing PLA with the Creality Ender 2 and my print comes out totally fine with the exception of the first layer.
Here's the weird part though, if I place a raft or a brim below/around the print - the raft or brim will print perfectly cleanly. Even on a raft though, the very first layer of the actual print comes out ugly, as seen in the photo below, but the raft itself will be perfectly printed.
Following that first ugly layer of the actual print, the rest of the print will be 100% clean. This happens consistently every time I print any object.
The perfectly printed raft can be seen on the right and the ugly first layer that printed on top of that raft can be seen on the left. Be sure to click the image to see the details of what I mean.
# Answer
Turns out it had to do with the nature of the small holes that I was printing. I had to slow the speed of the initial layer down from 25mm/s to 15mm/s and also set Cura to 'optimize wall printing order' so that it didn't jump back and forth between holes constantly.
I also sped up the travel speed to 50mm/s on the initial layer to minimize oozing (although I'm not sure this actually did anything). Print came out beautifully.
Didn't even need the raft.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Sounds like you need to get the printing nozzle closer to the bed. In the case of the raft you can adjust the 'air gap' which is how much it raises off the top of the raft before starting the print.
> 0 votes
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Tags: print-quality, fdm
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thread-2972 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2972 | What are the downsides and aftereffects of using a smaller nozzle? | 2016-10-24T19:55:19.650 | # Question
Title: What are the downsides and aftereffects of using a smaller nozzle?
A lot of consumer desktop FDM printers come with a 0.4 mm nozzle. I'm looking to print fine details objects and I was considering trying to use a smaller size nozzle. But before I do so I would like to establish a list of downsides and unwanted consequences.
# Answer
Here are some things to look out for when switching to a smaller nozzle size:
* **Curling** (out of the nozzle): Make sure the nozzle is clear of any debris to avoid the extruded filament from catching and therefore curling around the nozzle.
* **Warping**: You might experience more warping on the build plate and delamination between layers as a result of the smaller surface area of the layers.
* **Reduce speeds**: You should reduce your print speeds anyways when printing fine-detail objects. However, the smaller nozzle size will need a bit more time to adhere to other objects (see above).
* **Standoff distance**: The distance between the nozzle and build plate, a.k.a standoff, should be a bit smaller with the nozzle size. Typically people use the paper reference (using a piece of paper to "calibrate" the standoff), which is about 0.004".
* **Make sure your slicing engine knows the change!** Most slicing software will allow you to adjust the nozzle size. This can also be used to fine-tune your machine.
* **Beware of clogging**: Clogging is usually a result of poor cooling between your heater block and your drive gear, poor filament quality, and/or incorrect extrusion rates. You might want to perform a benchmark print with the new nozzle to "rediscover" which temperatures work best with the new "basin" volume in the nozzle.
I'm sure there are many others, but this should help get you started.
> 4 votes
# Answer
In addition to the answer of tbm0115; special care has to be given to the strength and stiffness of the model. Lines are thinner and thus when using the same amount of walls and infill percentage, the walls will be less stiff. This requires a higher percentage of infill or more walls to counteract this phenomenon. Obviously, this will cause the print to take longer.
> 1 votes
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Tags: fdm, desktop-printer, nozzle
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thread-6561 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6561 | But ... skateboard bearings have OIL in them, and oil is ... bad? | 2018-08-05T17:22:36.007 | # Question
Title: But ... skateboard bearings have OIL in them, and oil is ... bad?
I see plans for various spool holders, either for PLA in the open, or for whatever filament in a dry box, that use 608 bearings. Elsewhere, I see warnings not to oil your filament to make it go through the extruder better, because problems going through mean something else is wrong, and it's better to fix the other thing. So, if I use the 608's, will oil leak on the filament, and is this bad?
# Answer
Sounds like an instance of bad advice without any real basis in reality.
1. Oil is not bad, and generally only bearings specifically being sold for use with skateboards will be oiled. I don't mean all 608 bearings, but rather 608 bearings intended for/marketed to skaters to use with their boards as opposed to general purpose 608 bearings. You can tell if a bearing is oiled vs. packed with grease by spinning it. A greased bearing will stop almost immediately due to the viscosity of the grease. An oiled bearing will spin under its own momentum for a while after you spin it. But, regardless, grease or oil, the chance that it will contaminate filament in any appreciable way is very small. The skin oil on your fingers that gets deposited every time you load the filament is way more significant than accidental bearing leakage, and either way, it doesn't matter.
2. The advice about not oiling your filament is, well, bad advice. Or perhaps it was simply misunderstood. There is ***nothing*** wrong with oiling filament if done properly, and every little thing you can do to make the filament extrude with that much less resistance is a good thing. And it is certainly not 'bad' to oil filament, as no matter what, it is going to improve the situation.
What that advice is trying to say is that if the extruder is having problems extruding, then oiling the filament is not really a solution. It is never actually necessary to oil filament, and it is not something you should rely on to fix a problem, but rather something that can increase performance. So yes, don't try to make a non-working extruder working by oiling filament. That doesn't mean oiling it is bad, or you shouldn't do it, just remember that at best, it can only hide a problem, but it won't fix it.
3. Despite what the other answer to this question says, **you cannot 'oil' filament with PTFE lubricant, or any other lubricant that is not actually oil, and the purpose is most definitely *not* to lubricate the filament**. You also do not need to do it constantly, just once in the while. And it is only useful in all-metal hotends. Hotends where a PTFE tube all the way past the heat break will not be hurt by oiling, but it won't get much benefit either.
So what is the point of oiling if it isn't to lubricate the filament? Well, when certain types of oil (vegetable oil, shortening, canola oil, etc) is heated for a long time at a temperature of 190°C or higher, the fatty acids oxidize and reorganize, or more accurately, ***polymerize*** into a new plastic-like layer of molecules. This polymer layer acts as an extremely slick coating that is almost as slippery as a teflon coating. Regardless, it is much lower fiction than bare aluminum or stainless steel - having this coating inside your hotend will lower the drag on the filament that much more, which is always a good thing.
If something about this sounds familiar, you probably already know about it under a different name - ***seasoning.*** You know, that thing people often do to cast iron cookware. Only, it isn't actually specific to cast iron - it works just as well with aluminum or stainless steel.
Repeated exposure to hot oil continues to build on this coating, making it more slippery and durable. The polymer coating actually bonds to the metal. And you aren't lubricating anything, that is not the point, you do not need to constantly oil filament. You can lower the extrusion resistance in all metal hot ends by oiling during the first few prints, then oiling a print every once in a while to build up the coating again (which will slowly wear away over time), but it isn't something you really need or should do all the time. And using too much oil during a print can weaken the print's final strength because any excess oil will mix in with the PLA (or whatever it is you're printing with).
One final thing - if you do wish to season your hotend, canola oil anecdotally seems to work the best. Using PTFE lubricant will do nothing, and again, the point of oiling filament is to season the hotend, not to actually act as a lubricant.
The important take away here though, is you don't need to worry about any of this. Just use bearings, don't worry too much about keeping filament clean, just have something to clear off dust and other detritus that might be large enough to clog the nozzle. If you needed to be so vigilant as to worry about oil or grease from bearings, we'd all be using rubber gloves to even touch our filament.
> 7 votes
# Answer
Typically, oiling a filament would mean to use a vegetable based or non-petroleum type of lubricant, possibly even PTFE (teflon) or silicone. Those materials will not damage PLA filament.
Oiling filament is not the haphazard application of lubricant, however. One drop on the filament sponge guide will last a rather long time and should be given sufficient time to distribute itself in the sponge, helping it along by alternately squeezing and releasing the sponge.
Ball bearings of the type you've described will not have oil, unless otherwise modified by the user/owner. The bearings are packed with grease which will not leak out under normal circumstances. Running the bearings at high speed will cause the grease to thin a bit and perhaps drip or if hot enough will "sludge up." If your bearing grease turns to sludge, the bearing has already gotten hot enough to melt out of your plastic fitting.
For spool holder applications, you can clean the grease from the bearing with a suitable solvent (denatured alcohol, acetone, soap and hot water in a pinch) and expect little impact on the drag. The spools rotate at such slow speeds and under such small load that the bearings alone will work nearly forever. This recommendation is void in dusty environments.
With respect to oiling the filament, it's not a bad idea to have a sponge dust catcher that has no oil just as the filament enters the last open location. My bowden extruder system is nearly enclosed and the sponge sits at the very edge of the spool, while a direct extrusion system would have the sponge at the entry to the extruder gears.
> 6 votes
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Tags: filament, printer-peripheral
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thread-5968 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5968 | Extruder prints fine up until further down the print | 2018-05-14T18:57:30.283 | # Question
Title: Extruder prints fine up until further down the print
So I recently installed a genuine E3D V6 (direct) on my AM8 (Anet a8 with upgraded frame). I have already been able to fix most of the print quality problems. But the last one is a hard one for me.
It prints super fine up until a certain height. Then the extruder starts slipping and starts making weird noises like its clogged but I will be able to push through filament properly after cancelling the print. I thought it was heat creep but when touching the spiral heat break it is just a tad warm. I can comfortably put my finger on it and keep it there.
I also tried two different brands of filament and it seems to happen roughly at the same spot.
I tried PID tuning (the temps are literally perfect and super straight with no fluctuations), I tried cleaning the extruder gear and checked if it was worn or anything. Then I tightened everything on the extruder, making sure everything was nice and snug.
I am not exactly a newbie when it comes to fixing my own printer and troubleshooting the problems but this one I have never seen or had before.
Do you guys have any tips for me to point me in the right direction?
Running Marlin 1.1.8. I have a BLTouch on it and an AnyCubic UltraBase.
# Answer
I used a different heat break with a PFTE lining inside. After that it ran smoothly.
Probably what was happening was that my filament was getting too hot and started to stick on the full metal heat break.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I have had some similar problems as you describe with my custom build CoreXY printer. I used an all-metal heat break for my 2.85 mm diameter filament. The heat break clogged up. I found that the inner diameter of the heatbreak, although specifically designed for 3 mm filament, narrowed down having a ledge inside. I replaced the heat break with a spare with a teflon tube inside, and never had any problems again.
Since then I scoured the internet to find some proper all metal heat breaks and order a few that do not seem to have that deficiency. I have not tried these (while hot, but when cold the filament also moves better through it and does not get stuck on a ledge like the first one), but will when I print POM and ColorFabb PA-CF Low Warp with my soon to arrive Olsson Ruby nozzle.
> 1 votes
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Tags: extruder, anet-a8
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thread-6557 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6557 | Is the 110 m length accurate for 3.0 mm 1 kg spool? | 2018-08-05T14:49:14.740 | # Question
Title: Is the 110 m length accurate for 3.0 mm 1 kg spool?
I've been seeing the 330 m and 110 m length estimates for 1.75 and 3.0 mm spools (of PLA, presumably). But a moment's thought staring at that will raise an obvious question.
Using πr², we get the area of the filament in square millimeters (rounding to two decimal points)
For 1.75 it's 2.41 mm²
For 3.00 it's 7.07 mm²
Then taking the ratio and multiplying:
(2.41/7.07) * 330 m = 112 m which is close enough to 110 m.
BUT as all makers of filament and makers of extruders know, 3.00 mm is just a rounding off of the real dimension, which is 2.85 mm. Now do that:
For 2.85 it's 6.38 mm²
and:
(2.41/6.38) * 330 m = 125 m which is at least 120 m.
So, whoever calculated the approximation of 110 m did the calculation based on the rounded rather than actual dimension. What am I missing here?
My point is not that the 330 and 110 would be inaccurate given the dimensions of 1.75 and 3.00. Rather, my point is that the 3.00 mm diameter is not what is really so; it's actually 2.85 mm and therefore the answer is longer than 110 m.
# Answer
Let's go about this scientific:
$A\_r=\pi{r}^{2}=\pi{\frac{d}{2}}^{2}$
As a result the crossections are $A\_{3}=7.06858\text{mm}^2=0.0707\text{cm}^2$, $A\_{2.85}=6.3794\text{mm}^2=0.0638\text{cm}^2$ and $A\_{1.75}=2.40528\text{mm}^2=0.024\text{cm}^2$.
Volume of a cylinder is $V\_{A\_d,l}=\times {A\_d} {l}$. Turned around to get a length from Volume and Area we get $l=\frac {V\_m}{A\_d}$, but what is V?
We know the density of comercial PLA is about $\rho=1.25 \frac{\text g}{\text{cm}^3}$, and we know $m=\times V \rho$. So: $V\_m=\frac{m}{\rho}=\frac{1000}{1.25}\text{cm}^3=800\text{cm}^3$.
Taking this Volume and using the $l=\frac {V\_m}{A\_d}$ we get:
$l\_{d=1.75}=33333.33\frac{\text{cm}}{\text{kg}}=333.33\frac{\text{m}}{\text{kg}}$
$l\_{d=2.85}=12539.18\frac{\text{cm}}{\text{kg}}=125.39\frac{\text{m}}{\text{kg}}$
$l\_{d=3}=11315.41\frac{\text{cm}}{\text{kg}}=113.15\frac{\text{m}}{\text{kg}}$
If the filament is more on the dense side $(\rho\>1.25\frac{\text g}{\text{cm}^3})$, then it will have a smaller volume and thus be shorter than this estimate.
To show this better, a graph: This is the length of a filament spool in dependancy of the density. The values were calculated for the usual diameters with their closest neighbors rounded to 0.1 as absolute diameters and run over a broad range of densities commonly used in plastics - 0.7 g/cm³ to 2 g/cm³.
> 3 votes
# Answer
The 110 meter figure is for 3.0 mm filament that actually is 3.0 mm in diameter. As you (correctly) note, most 3.0 mm filament is often actually closer to 2.85 mm. In that case, the correct figure is indeed around 125 meters. Note that this figure is for PLA filament (see e.g. my answer here). For ABS, being significantly less dense, a 1 kg spool would be around 155 meters.
> 2 votes
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Tags: filament
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thread-6569 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6569 | How to make moving parts not stick together? | 2018-08-06T17:37:08.527 | # Question
Title: How to make moving parts not stick together?
I am new to the 3D printing world and I would appreciate if someone can give me advice on how to 3D print moving parts without them sticking together. I recently 3D printed the predator pliers from Thingiverse and it came out very nice except for the fact that the parts where stuck together and I could not move any of the pieces. I had to use an Exacto knife to loosen the parts and in doing so my predator pliers broke and I was very sad.
The printer and the settings that I use are:
* PowerSpec WanHao Duplicator I3 PLUS 3D Printer
* Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1
* Black PLA Plastic 1.75 mm
* 0.4 mm nozzle
* 60 °C Bed Temp
* 200 °C Extruder Temp
* 20 fill (usually-sometimes more)
* Layer height 0.15
UPDATE: I printed a PIP from thingiverse and it worked out perfectly. All the parts move.
# Answer
> 6 votes
If parts stick together after printing, the positioning or extrusion is not working optimally.
This can be related to various issues:
* Positioning of the head is not correct; this could be related to incorrect belt tension, incorrect steps per mm, streched belts.
* The extrusion process is not working optimal; this could be related to over-extruding (incorrect steps per mm for the extruder, incorrect multiplier in the slicer, filament too hot) or the first layer height is incorrect (too low, so the lines spread out and tough each other). Extruder calibration is explained in more detail in this answer.
A very good start to verify what exactly your tolerance problem is is to print this tolerance test. Basically, these are diabolic shaped objects in a slightly larger outer shape object. Please slice this STL file with your favorite slicer to obtain the G-code for your printer. When the print is ready, you use a screwdriver to turn the diabolic shaped objects from large to small tolerance, the last one that does not turn is the maximum tolerance of your printer. So when printing in place hinges, you should use tolerance values higher than the one that did not turn.
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Tags: print-quality, wanhao
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thread-3442 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3442 | No Z hop in Dual extruder, print getting disturbed at retraction point | 2017-01-20T01:10:43.790 | # Question
Title: No Z hop in Dual extruder, print getting disturbed at retraction point
I'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ with V2 Dual extruder(0.5mm). When I'm printing anything, the front left side of the print is getting disturbed because whenever the tool head switches the action between the extruders, they stop at the front left point of the print. They are not performing the Z-hop and because they are hot they are disturbing the print at that point. These are the settings that are currently set:
The print with the disturbance:
Sometimes the whole print is getting dragged to the extruders.
# Answer
It appears as though you are using (or used) an old version of Cura. More recent releases allow you to insert G-code commands on changing the extruder. You could insert a Z-hop in these sections.
**Extruder End G-code**: First set the extruder in a relative mode, move up 2 mm, set absolute again:
```
G91
G1 Z2
G90
```
**Extruder Start G-code**: First set the extruder in a relative mode, move down 2 mm, set absolute again:
```
G91
G1 Z-2
G90
```
You could even do filament retractions to prevent oozing or stringing!
*Note that this assumes both hotends are on the same carriage!*
An alternative you could try is to use a print server that is able to inject G-code scripts, an example is OctoPrint:
> 2 votes
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Tags: print-quality, abs, z-axis, dual-nozzle
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thread-5969 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5969 | Getting bumps/warts on surface, Cura doesn't want to comb? | 2018-05-15T02:36:57.383 | # Question
Title: Getting bumps/warts on surface, Cura doesn't want to comb?
I have not been able to print smooth and round shapes using Cura 3.3.1 (or earlier) without bumps. I think they are seams? The filament is PLA.
Combing is enabled, which I thought makes it so that the nozzle travels over already printed areas, instead of flying over the air...*right*?
I have been able to keep the seems hidden for the most part when there are sharp corners. *Sometimes* cura hides the seems properly...sometimes it doesn't.
Here is an example shape I have tried printing with several different settings:
The object above was printed using "random" seam corner preference. If I had chosen "sharpest corner", the bumps would all just stack up in one place, but still stick out.
Just look at the travel lines below! Why is it jumping all over the place?
I have tried "Avoid printed parts when traveling" enabled and disabled, doesn't seem to make much difference.
I feel that there should be a configuration that results in the nozzle not jumping through the air like that, but I can't find it. Perhaps that's not related to the bumps?
The printer is a MonoPrice Mini Delta.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Following on from Toon's answer, here is a run down of Thomas Sanladerer's excellent video: 3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong.
*However, this may not be a definitive answer to the actual question about warts and bumps...*
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**0:08 - A step back**
Back in time - when the RepRap project (and the hobby grade 3D printing market) was new territory - it was seen to be a *doable* technology, with no restrictions imposed by patents. The new printers created and developed included Darwin, Sells Mendel and Prusa Mendel. These often produced unusable parts.
However, impromptu solutions, or kludges led to poor quality fixes giving poor quality prints, by today's standards. However, people (today) believe that because they worked back then,. that they must still be valid solutions today. However this is not necessarily the case.
The common misconception is that it is necessary to calibrate the esteps per mm for all axes other than extruder - adjusting the x, y and z esteps per mm until the 10 mm cube measures exactly 10x10x10 mm, even if that means squeezing the callipers.
---
> **1:25 - Car analogy**
>
> You find that your car pulls to the left, when going in a straight line, so you adjust the steering. However, then in hard corners and the rain the car handles poorly.
>
> Upon closer inspection, it then turns out that the car had a flat tyre. You wouldn't compensate for having a flat tyre by adjusting the steering, now would you?
---
In order to get that 10 mm cube precise, it is usual to calibrate for the filament diameter, and extrusion multiplier (most straightforward option), but some printers aren't even that precise in the first place.
Mechanical, ripple, slaw, blacklash, can throw you off by 0.1 mm. Compensation for this 0.1 mm is certainly possible and achievable. However, then for a larger print, say 100 mm, then these *overcompensation* will become more evident, and you will be one entire milimeter off the desired dimensions.
So, use the ideal calculated esteps per mm. Timing belts and threaded rods are made to tight tolerances. therefore the worst case of ideal step per mm setting is an inaccuracy of 0.5%.
So, to find the ideal calculated steps use Prusa's calculator which is very good indeed.
If you are not using belts, or very large printer, then it is worth recalibrating the steps per mm for x and y, as 0.5% will make a noticeable difference in larger parts.
Use the files and instructions for these **Calibration sticks** on Youmagine, for proper recalibrating without results slewed by the extrusion multiplier being off by a bit.
**3:45 - So what do I need to do?**
What do you need to empirically calibrate your printer? In actual fact, not all that much:
* extruder steps per mm setting
* extrusion multiplier (see video link - Extruder calibration)
* print speed, jerk and acceleration settings - These depend upon how much quality you want to sacrifice for increased speed.
Pro-tip: *slow your printing down*. For example, try printing at half speed. Quality *may* be improved, and even if it isn't you will be able to observe more clearly what is happening, and going wrong. (see video link - Super Fast Guide:Tuning Speeds)
**4:30 - Other than that?**
There is not much else needs calibrating, per se.
With regards to slicer software, there are only a certain range of settings make sense, but this isn't printer calibration. You simply learn the slicer software and, with familiarity, see how far you can go.
These days any well maintained and well built and solid printer will produce good prints.
Most slicers give you decent prints without tweaking or calibrating, other than the basic settings about your printer and deciding how the part should be printed.
What about print temp and retract settings? Well, just use the default settings, or settings which depend upon the type of filament. So, no calibration is required there, as it is a property of the filament.
**5:24 - Summing up**
Don't try to calibrate everything
The technology, in particular the software, i.e. slicers, is still developing and improving. Slic3r's prototpye beta (in Nov 2014) has added compensation for fitting errors(?) without messing other things up, which is essentially what the cube calibration tries to do, but in the correct way.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Have you correctly calibrated your steps per mm a.k.a. esteps? Tom made a great video about it:
3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, pla, delta, monoprice-mini-delta
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thread-6577 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6577 | What printer is this? | 2018-08-07T05:51:29.623 | # Question
Title: What printer is this?
I've been watching this video 3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong and at the start (at 0:30) three of the first Reprap printers are mentioned (and shown):
* Darwin;
* Prusa Mendel, and;
* what sounds to be "Cells".
Here is a screenshot:
which, to me, looks like a Mendel.
However, after having looked at:
... I can not see the "Cells" printer listed or mentioned.
Am I hearing it correctly?
Or is it "Sells", in reference to Edward Sells, one of the four authors of RepRap – the replicating rapid prototyper? However, this paper only mentions/shows the Darwin and Mendel printers.
# Answer
Yes, it is a "Sells Mendel" in reference to Edward Sells. As noted on the RepRap wiki:
> Ed Sells, a student of Dr. Adrian Bowyer, designed and built the first Mendel printer, sometimes called a "Sells Mendel" to distinguish the original design from later tweaks.
> 4 votes
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Tags: reprap
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thread-6574 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6574 | Can I use a 0 mm top layer thickness in Ultimaker Cura to create an open box? | 2018-08-07T03:32:37.460 | # Question
Title: Can I use a 0 mm top layer thickness in Ultimaker Cura to create an open box?
Let's say I'm modeling a simple open-top rectangular box to slice via Cura for printing. Normally I would set up a solid box of the size I want in the modeler, and then subtract a slightly smaller box to create the final result.
* Is it possible to get the same results with Cura by instead only modeling the simpler solid box if set my wall lines and thickness for the base and sides, set the infill to 0 %, and then set the *Top Layers* to 0 and/or *Top Thickness* to 0 mm?
* How might that change the resulting print?
* How will that impact the total height of the print?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Yes that will work in Ultimaker Cura exactly as you say.
So if you have a solid model of a cube, you select wall thickness, bottom thickness, 0 % infill, and no top layers or top layer size of 0 mm. You will then end up with a box without a top layer, but with walls reaching up to the height of your model.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-6586 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6586 | What is a masterspool? | 2018-08-07T14:58:32.433 | # Question
Title: What is a masterspool?
Recently, I have heard people talking about masterspool, when talking about 3D printing filament.
* What *exactly* is master spool?
* Where did the idea come from and when?
* Is it being widely adopted? Or to be specific, how many distributors/manufacturers have adopted this already, and is it gaining traction?
* Is this something that I should get excited by?
* If so, why is it such a good idea?
# Answer
A masterspool is the practice of printing your own spool out of filament, which will then be used to support your filament you purchase without a spool attached. The main idea is to create a reusable spool and create less waste.
(*NOTE: I'm in no way affiliated with MatterHackers.com, nor am I an endorser of their products.* There is also a version which Village Plastics has created.)
On MatterHackers.com website, they state:
> Filament without a spool? Why are we making this? The short answer: because the community wants it. We had enough questions, comments and plenty of tweets asking if we had plans to pick up the Master Spool concept. Seeing the response and interest within the community made it clear to us: we needed to bring this idea to the States. With a joint effort between MatterHackers and Village Plastics, you can now purchase Master Spool refills from within the US.
They are tying to apply the *Reduce, Reuse, Recycle* mantra to create a cleaner environment for the rest of the world. While they are not the first to create or use a printable spool, they are pretty happy to be pressing forward with the idea of having a reusable spool and selling filament without a spool attached.
MatterHackers go on to state:
> What are the benefits of the Master Spool? Not only is there the benefit of reducing plastic waste, using a Master Spool will also reduces shipping costs for new spools, and limits the clutter from amassing of a huge collection of used or empty spools. Rather than throwing away, trying to recycle dozens of spools, or trying to come up with a way to reuse them in some (like the Spool Tool), using the Master Spool means you can use all those filament scraps you have laying around on something useful and have one spool for all of your filament.
As far as where it started, it appears to have originated with this print on Thiniverse created by Dingoboy71. A well known 3D printer named *RichRap* created the reusable spool which MatterHacker promotes, though they say there are several which will work with their product (Village Plastic says pretty much the same).
If you get excited about saving the planet, then you should be excited about this. If you are a robust printer, going through tons (hopefully not literally) of filament per year, this method will save a lot of waste in the long run.
Realize there are (as of this writ) only limited suppliers of spool-less filament, though I think the trend for this type of product will increase in the future as the idea catches on. I guess time will tell.
> 5 votes
# Answer
One key difference between a 'masterspool' and any old spare empty reel you have left over is that the masterspool is a 2-part design which can be fitted over an existing roll of filament without needing to un-spool and re-spool the whole roll.
The idea being that filament can be packaged and secured for shipment (with cable ties or the like) without needing to include a whole spool every time. The end user can buy/print only as many spools as they need.
This concept also allows for 'extra' features to be included in the spool (such as retention for loose ends) without these features being wasted on every discarded spool.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: filament
--- |
thread-6592 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6592 | How to determine shell thickness for parts? | 2018-08-08T00:30:24.733 | # Question
Title: How to determine shell thickness for parts?
Let's say you're printing a container or some other object with no infill. What's a good rule of thumb for how thick to make the outside? I'm looking for something along the lines of millimeters thick per square inch of area.
I'm thinking about PLA right now, but answers for ABS and other materials are welcome, too.
# Answer
This totally depends on what you think is acceptable for your print, and what the usage of the print is: is it a structural/functional part or just for aesthetic purposes. There is no general rule of thumb for that. Basically this is a design issue.
If it has to be stiff and may not flex much you would require to use more walls to give it more rigidity. Less if it is not that important.
When using infill and depending of the part, 0.8 to 1.2 mm walls are frequently used for nozzle sizes of 0.4 mm, without infill you could use the same values, but need to take less rigidity for granted. Add more walls when you need it to be more rigid. Note that the larger the wall surface area becomes (height over width), the easier a wall can buckle under load; increase the wall count to counteract.
In your case (design of a container) I would consider what the purpose of the container is; e.g. how big is it, how much weight is it going to contain (e.g. heavy nuts and bolts, or left over filament pieces), is it stackable, etc. etc. etc.. As a final thought, note that you can play with the design as well, a straight box/container is less stiff than a box with some curved edges or stiffeners. An example of a stackable container is e.g. this:
The indents on the walls of this container give it more rigidity, these walls are in the range of 2 to 3 perimeters.
> 4 votes
# Answer
As alluded to in 0scar's answer, it is important to stick to multiples of your nozzle width for thin shells. If you try to print a 1mm wall with a 0.4mm nozzle, you give the slicer a bit of a challenge in filling the joint between the two outer faces. Maybe it can print a half-width line, by under extruding, maybe not - but a 0.8mm wall is likely to be stronger.
So long as the slicer has more than 3 nozzle widths to play with, it is able to add diagonal fill to build up a solid form (as hinted in this comment on github for cura)
The answer to the question depends completely on the rigidity required. A single (vase) wall can work, particularly for a curved object - but you might find that a stronger lip is required. Although 2 or 3 perimeters will flex, they may be strong enough for your application.
Above this, you may be better off with a 2-sided wall. 2 perimeters each side with a 1mm gap (and a bit of infill) is comparable to a 6 perimeter solid wall due to the increased overall thickness and the compression/extension multiplication. I rarely go above 3 perimeters - if I need extra strength, I resort to punching holes like the slots in this part.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I make small objects (25mm^2) with 1 to 1.5 mm walls and larger objects (think coffee cups) with about 2.5 - 3 mm walls. I set the line width and number of perimeters to completely fill the thickness. I use this for ABS and PLA. The PLA objects have been electronics enclosures, with internal structures to support the parts. They aren't subjected to strong forces. I've made small containers for stain gauges with the amplifiers, and larger ones for greater sequences and Arduino boxes. I've used ABS also for coffee mugs and beverage glasses, to withstand the mass and temperature of drinks. It can take some fussing to worry the Slic3r slicing parameters into place. Especially with mugs the design is for function and appearance, not for effect.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, print-strength
--- |
thread-4448 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4448 | cura shows different Z heights | 2017-08-01T12:47:05.387 | # Question
Title: cura shows different Z heights
Cura v2.5.0
I've been working in Blender for some time, so I have experience with exporting stl from it with exact size and I had no scale issues with slicing.
But today cura showed a strange thing.
These are 3dBenchy and a stretched cube which are supposed to have 45mm height, also "boundary boxes" are turned on to show that there is no flying geometry.
As you can see below cura shows same size visually but different in numbers.
And if I scale the ship inside the cura it will look like this
(low reputation) `http://dl3.joxi.net/drive/2017/08/01/0001/2747/88763/63/969fe8bc67.jpg`
Does anyone know if I screwed up the model somehow or can it be considered as a bug?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Converted comment on OP to answer:
The comment links to a question on SE.Blender; the answer that led to the solution is quoted below.
> The STL exporter doesn't take Scene Scale into account. Import your STL back into Blender (it will have the same size) and drag Scene Scale up back to 1.0, and you'll see how the cube grows relative to the grid.
>
> 1 Blender unit equals 1m, but STL seems to assume 1 unit as 1cm.
>
> If you want 1 unit to be 1mm, set Scale on STL export to 0.1 and Scene Scale to 0.001 to make it match the output scale in viewport.
>
> Note that the STL will be 10x smaller if you re-import it into Blender!
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, blender
--- |
thread-6151 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6151 | Creality Ender 4 extruder problem | 2018-06-11T20:33:48.250 | # Question
Title: Creality Ender 4 extruder problem
I cannot get my extruder to work on my Creality Ender-4 printer. I have heated the nozzle but the extruder does not move.
I tested the motor and cable on another system and they work just fine.
Could it be the board or what could it be?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Apparently your 3D printer runs Marlin firmware. Marlin firmware default code has build in protection against extrusion below a certain temperature (usually 170°C) as defined in the printer configuration:
```
// *** IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO LEAVE THIS OPTION ENABLED! ***
#define PREVENT_COLD_EXTRUSION
#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170
```
Are you sure that it heats up above this temperature? Please check the connections of the thermistor and the heater cartridge.
Marlin firmware code supports disabling the cold extrusion safety measure by setting:
```
M302 S0 ; Allow extrusion at any temperature
```
(save this line in a file with extension `gcode` and load and run it from an SD card or alternatively hook up your computer over USB to the printer and use an application like Pronterface, Repetier-Host, etc. to upload the command to the printer)
If cold extrusion safety is turned off, you should try to extrude (without loading filament) to test if the extruder works.
To revert use the following code:
```
M302 S170 ; Allow extrusion above 170
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
I change the stepper driver and that helped.
One of the stepper driver was faulty.
---
Tags: extruder, creality-ender-4
--- |
thread-5882 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5882 | PLA coating for water irrigation 3D printed parts | 2018-04-26T07:20:18.510 | # Question
Title: PLA coating for water irrigation 3D printed parts
I was considering printing some pieces for my irrigation system, like tube connectors and such. I am aware that PLA is hydrophilic so I was wondering with what kind of product I could coat the pieces, non-toxicity is a requirement because it will water edible greens.
So, what kind of non-toxic product can I use to coat PLA to make it hydrophobic?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Before worrying too much about the hydrophilic properties of PLA, it might be worthwhile to test a fitting.
First, print a fitting and see that the freshly made print is strong enough to carry the pressure of the water, and the compression force of hose clamp you may need to connect the stiff irrigation hose to the printed fitting.
Second, soak the printed fitting in water for month or two, perhaps at an elevated temperature to match the higher ground temperature in the summer. You could put the part in a closed mason jar and leave it in the sun. You might add a little salt and fertilizer to the water to simulate ground conditions.
After this aging process, you could test to see if it withstands the pressure of the domestic water system.
You might also measure the ground temperatures where you intend to use the fittings. I find that PLA has no structural strength above about 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Centigrade), and the inability to resist slow plastic may start at an even lower temperature. \[For example, I print structural PLA parts with negative clearances and then dip them in 160 degree F water to soften them.\]
If the printed fittings are strong enough but suffer from water absorption, I would either print them of ABS or coat them with an ABS coating. To make the coating, dissolve ABS in acetone until it is the consistency of thick cream, dip your fitting in the mixture, and allow them to dry. It will take longer than you think it should to dry, and the solution will take more ABS plastic than you might expect.
ABS is not generally considered to be "food safe", but this isn't a potable water system. The FDA lists ABS as conditionally food safe, and I would be comfortable using it to irrigate my lawn and vegetables.
# Answer
> 1 votes
PLA will biodegrade over time. ABS would last longer, and stand up to higher temps.
---
Tags: pla, post-processing
--- |
thread-6606 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6606 | Recommend simple software to create calibration print for table leveling | 2018-08-08T20:32:58.603 | # Question
Title: Recommend simple software to create calibration print for table leveling
I've just bought **Anycubic i3 Mega** printer and trying to level it. So far I've printed test object and 2 others but looks like there are problems with leveling.
I want to make image of 5 small one layer squares(one in each corner and one in center). Looking for recommendations of **simple** software/tutorials/approaches to do it. I tried zbrush but found that it kind of complicated.
# Answer
> 6 votes
You are probably looking for something like this:
Note this is for large beds (300 x 300 mm), so you would have to X, Y scale this in your slicer.
This is a simple part that is very easily generated with OpenSCAD 3D design software (very good modeller if you are familiar with software coding), but could easily been designed in any other tool.
Another leveling and centering print that is created with OpenSCAD is this, and could be a start for you to create your own design:
Note that the file with the design is located in the "files" section.
**Edit**: Some code for OpenSCAD made within 5 minutes (I don't type fast so it could have been faster if I did not use the constants, but if you go OpenSCAD, making parametric designs is almost a must ;) ):
```
// Set constants as you like
width = 30;
depth = 30;
layer_height = 0.2;
first_layer_height = 0.2;
nr_of_layers = 2;
box_size = 180;
// Calculated parameters
height = first_layer_height + (nr_of_layers - 1) * layer_height;
// Draw the test object
translate([-width/2, -depth/2,0]){
// Draw the center square
cube(size = [width, depth, height], center = false);
// Draw the corner squares
for (x=[-1:2:1]){
for (y=[-1:2:1]){
translate([x * (box_size-width)/2, y * (box_size-depth)/2, 0])
cube(size = [width, depth, height], center = false);
}
}
}
```
Rendered figure:
# Answer
> 3 votes
One of the most accessible modelling tools has to be tinkercad. Everything is done in the browser, and it even works (to an extent) on a tablet.
I wouldn't recommend getting too attached to it, since it is fairly limited. As an introduction to modeling in 3D, and some of the spatial concepts that you will need to get used to, it works very well.
---
Tags: 3d-models, software, calibration
--- |
thread-4576 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4576 | Help! 3D Printing Corals for Aquarium Decorations | 2017-09-01T05:28:20.743 | # Question
Title: Help! 3D Printing Corals for Aquarium Decorations
We manufacture artificial corals for aquarium decorations.
We are trying to use 3D scanning and printing to duplicate live corals. Please see attached photos, left is 3D printed model, right is coral molded using resin.
The problem is lacking detail, the real corals have pores (tiny holes).
Can anybody please help to add pores to the 3D printed corals? Maybe using Blender 3D software?
# Answer
First thing to check it's, What printer are you using? is FDM or SLA/SLS? Technology used is the great bottleneck to achieve the results that you want to.
Also, going cheap in 3D printing it's a way to get bad results. A good setup it's really important to get a great XY and Z resolution.
FDM it's not able to achieve the same resolution as SLS/SLA has, but it's cheaper.
If you using FDM try reducing wall speed, that will increase the detail level. Using a smaller nozzle and lower layer settings will increase it as well.
EDIT: Also, you need to check in the 3D model how the model is. If the details that you're looking for are not there, there is nothing else to do but start doing it by hand.
> 5 votes
# Answer
As you told in a comment, you are using an FDM printer. Now... here's the problem:
FDM can't do details this small with a standard nozzle. I do print occasionally an item that has a 0.2 mm circular depression in its wall. To show, I need to print with a 0.2 nozzle. So take note: smaller nozzle = smaller achieveable details. As a rule of thumb, the nozzle diameter is the smallest visible detail in XY and 2 layer thicknesses in Z. Remember, that some intricate details can become SUPER fragile.
Next up is print time: The smaller the nozzle, the longer the print, as you need more movements to follow the now more complex outline and to achieve the same density of interior, more (but thinner) interior walls too.
So, FDM has two limitations:
1. Nozzle size is limited downwards, limiting the achieveable details.
2. Print time is the great unequalizer, as halving the nozzle diameter usually results in more than double the print time.
But fret not, there is a way out: Go even tinyer! Stereolothography and other resind based systems (DLP/SLA) are more time efficient when it comes to details and can manage even smaller details. Under some conditions (very fine powder and precise laser) SLS and DLSM might achieve the size, but nylon based prints don'T work under water while metal prints might not serve the purpose really.
In either case, **your print file needs to have the details you wants to print**: it makes no difference if your 3D scan does not include the pores what system you use - information not included can't be printed. Check your Slicer if the model has the surface you want.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Perhaps with the scanned data you could import it into some sort of 3D modeling application such as Blender and add the pores either manually or with a modifier. See Blender - modifiers.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, 3d-models
--- |
thread-6021 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6021 | Extruding a (wall?) in Fusion 360? | 2018-05-24T14:51:36.160 | # Question
Title: Extruding a (wall?) in Fusion 360?
I have a model that has walls with a volume of 0.00mm that I want to extrude so I can 3D Print it.
I was unable to convert it into a normal body in order to extrude it.
In addition I was unable to figure out what kind of body type this is, here a picture.
And here a Picture of the Model.
How can I extrude these walls?
# Answer
I think the command you're looking for is "Thicken". Recent versions of Fusion360 have moved this around, but now it should appear under the Create Panel when you're in the the Model mode (see the image below for details). A detailed description and short screencast on the Autodesk website here.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, software, extrusion
--- |
thread-6602 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6602 | Does Cura have an algorithm for any infill percentage or does it just have specific patterns? | 2018-08-08T18:04:20.210 | # Question
Title: Does Cura have an algorithm for any infill percentage or does it just have specific patterns?
Looking in the Cura interface, I can set any whole number 0-100 for the infill percentage. Does Cura have an algorithm to calculate a pattern for any of those possible values, or does it have a few patterns where it selects the closest one?
# Answer
Infill serves two main purposes. These don't seem to map particularly well to the available controls.
**Adding strength to the part** The more plastic your part has inside, the stronger it will be. At least, that is the simplistic assumption. In fact, it seems that infill is not a particularly effective way of strengthening a part (compared for example with thicker walls and structural design features). What is apparent is that some infill patterns are stronger in certain directions, some are more isotropic, and some are just weak.
**Supporting upper layers** Without infill, any top faces on a model will involve bridging, so there is a trade-off between infill density, the number of top layers, and the quality of the top surface of your print. To reflect this function, slicers allow you to incrementally increase the infill density as you approach a top surface. This is particularly useful in a model that has a large inner void which does not otherwise need to be filled.
In addition to affecting the infill strength, adjusting the infill pattern can influence the points at which infill connects to the walls. For complex shapes this might affect how successful the print is. There are also other parameters which you can adjust (overlap, orientation).
The 'best' infill settings are influenced by the requirements of infill, and the 'success' metric does not appear to have a sharp response that would be useful in performing an optimisation.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I fear I'm going to deny your question. The infil percentage and the infil pattern are two orthogonal properties, both of which contribute to the strength, density, mass, and print time of an object. Since there's no way for an algo to "know" what your desired outcome is, this can't be done.
Note - I used 'orthogonal' in the Hilbert sense, meaning neither property is a function of the other.
> 5 votes
# Answer
From what I can see, the only way to change the pattern is the manual way. There is still an open gate to create a plugin that could select the pattern - but that is rather a complex solution - unless you will have a fully automated pipeline
> 2 votes
# Answer
There is a option for the infill pattern. It is one of the MAAAAANY by default hidden options in Cura. On the Header of the cathegories there will appear a gear symbol while hovering over the header. By klicking it a window will show up and provides this many options to be shown in the settings, if they were checked.
> 2 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, infill
--- |
thread-3027 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3027 | Is cutting the arm off the Z-axis switch a good idea? | 2016-11-08T19:22:30.303 | # Question
Title: Is cutting the arm off the Z-axis switch a good idea?
We all know (or should!) that the repeatability of common spring-arm limit switches is crappy at best. I'm looking to build & install one of the precision height adjusters for the Z-axis limit switch, and noticed a post on some forum suggesting removing the arm and triggering the switch button directly (e.g. with a screw end).
Has anyone tried this, and if so has the repeatability of Z-homing improved any?
## Edit
Sorry -- this is a stock Prusa i3, which depends on physical contact between the vertically-moving subassembly and a microswitch mounted on the frame.
# Answer
> 2 votes
While I haven't seen this on a Z axis for a printer personally, there is no reason it wouldn't work, and would improve your repeatability in theory. Removing the arm on the switch is taking away the lever. Going back to simple machine mechanics, the lever gives you a larger range of motion in which the button could be triggered, with the tradeoff that you get a larger target to hit. How much of an improvement depends on the exact switch, where the button is compared to the axis of the switch, and how long the switch is.
My Shapeoko 3 CNC router has a switch for all three end stops that do not have arms, and my Original Prusa i3 mk2 has switches without lever arms on X and Y axis endstops, so there is is no reason it won't work for your i3 Z axis, you just need to make sure you can accurately hit the small button on the switch.
# Answer
> 1 votes
No. Buy a better switch if it's an issue (see below).
You would need to have some very tight tolerances to hit that micro button with whatever your arm is. If you had a machine with good tolerances you would not be considering this modification. That alone is why I would say this is not the greatest idea.
Following it might work if your Z is connected to the hot end and smashing into the bed. But I suspect you will still have a myriad of issues, such as the switch getting out of position enough to cause the head to crash into the machine. The real question now is how many rotations of the Z axis could happen if the printer is moving at maximum speed and the button is pressed? That metal arm is your grace period. Now your printer is potentially smashing into the switch.
Lastly, just get a switch with a more solid and less springy metal tab.
The real question is whether there is actually a variance caused by the metal arm? I would suspect that it hits the switch very precisely, consistently and within an acceptable tolerance. Removing the arm will buy you little. Replacing it with a stiffer-arm switch might serve you better.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The answer to this question is, no, taking the lever off will not do anything improve repeatability, but it will improve accuracy of the Z Axis. I have tried both ways, actually 4 with a Duet Wifi. 2x 8mm Leadscrews, 0.9 Stepper, Calibrated at 800 Steps per MM.
1. Full lever size: After actuation I have to baby step up my Z Axis 13 x 0.05mm to let go, and then 13 of the same baby steps back down to actuate it.
2. Short lever: After actuation I have to baby step 0.05mm 10 times, 10 more times to let go.
3. Small enstop button only: 3 x 0.05mm baby steps is all that is needed.
4. Larer button from roller lever endstops: 10 x 0.05 baby steps needed both ways.
The large endstop button only surprised me, thought it would be more reliable.
It is a bit more difficult to make the small button approach work, and it will increase the likelihood for failure and machine damage though.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, z-axis, endstop
--- |
thread-6528 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6528 | 3D Metal Printing | 2018-08-01T16:50:55.333 | # Question
Title: 3D Metal Printing
I have been wondering about 3D metal printing (steel, aluminium), but after a short research on google I found only too expensive printers (markforged, desktop metal and a few other industrial ones). Is there any less expensive printer that is able to print metal parts on the market ?
# Answer
> 8 votes
**Printing metal** (directly) is done in mainly two types:
* Laser Sintering (LS), where a metal compound or alloy is sintered into form. For example, Tungsten Carbide is Laser Sintered. Common shorthands are SLS, DMLS, and SMLS, but others crop up too.
* Laser Melting, where the laser actually smelts the metal into spot. DMLS/DMLM (direct metal laser (s)melting) and SLM (Selective Laser Melting) are currently the top of the development.
There is a side market of a special setup that welds objects, making the whole item a single weld, but that is (strictly speaking) not printing, it is welding.
What bars the availability of OpenSource machines: Patents, more patents and even more patents are still running, and some of these patents contain parts essential to metal printing, so they are barred. Only a few key patents for Laser Smelting/Laser Sintering/Laser Melting like this one did expire at all up to now. Some of the nowadays relevant patents for METAL printing like **this** (exp: ~2019-2024), this (exp:~2037) or this new one (exp: ~2035) still have years to go, so it will take some time.
Another factor is market: There is only a small market for hobbyists demanding metal printers while the industrial demand is large, and the industry is willing to pay big money. So there is little pressure on the big ones to make small machines, while the open source groups need to develop ways that get the right results without breaking patents.
A more complete history of metal laser printing (and a little more help which patents actually are relevant for industry) can be found here.
# Answer
> 7 votes
Anzalone and friends published A Low-Cost Open-Source Metal 3-D Printer in *IEEE Access*:
> This paper reports on the development of a open-source metal 3-D printer. The metal 3-D printer is controlled with an open-source micro-controller and is a combination of a low-cost commercial gas-metal arc welder and a derivative of the Rostock, a deltabot RepRap. The bill of materials, electrical and mechanical design schematics, and basic construction and operating procedures are provided.
# Answer
> 5 votes
# FFF/FDM
You can create a metal object via metal casting or using a special filament containing metal parts.
## Metal filament
You print with a special filament that contains from mixture of metal and plastic. After the print you heat up the object around 450°C to burn plastic away and melt metal grains together. You need a kiln. DIY kiln is about 150$.
Before kiln process
After kiln process
The only filament I know is Filamet from The Virtual Foundry. CopperFill from ColorFabb contains just 30% of metal in oposite to Filamet containing 80%.
Just remember that these filaments are pretty dense which makes 1kg spools quite "shorter" and thus even more expensive!
## Casting
This method is very closed to lost-wax casting. In short you print an object, surround it in clay/green sand, heat it up to burn out plastic and pour liquid metal in.
You can find an example of this tech on youtube, but the method is pretty much the same as with lost wax casting.
# RepRap experiments
I have found some metal printing experiments in the RepRap projet, but did not study them in detail.
## Bronze paste & paste extruder
This is just an idea: You could arguably take a FFF printer with paste extruder and print with a paste containing a high amount of metal in a paste. Then the print is processed in a kiln.
# Industrial technologies
Here is a list of metal print technologies by all3p.com An example from the list:
# Answer
> 2 votes
You can do lost-PLA investment casting, the actual gear to do it is kind of pricey unless you're willing to create your own DIY forge for melting aluminum.
Check it out though, you don't need a special printer to do it.
There's also a way to coat your prints with metal it would require an electric current and some nasty chemicals, but it's possible as an alternative.
---
Tags: metal-printing
--- |
thread-5862 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5862 | How do I compute the surface & volume of a large amount of STL files? | 2018-04-23T13:09:52.727 | # Question
Title: How do I compute the surface & volume of a large amount of STL files?
Please, how do I compute the surface & volume of a large amount of STL files ?
I have **over 3000 STL files**, and I want to know their respective **volumes and surfaces**. I will use this data to be able to identify the biggest part, the one with the biggest surface, etc.
I found that the fine Admesh (included in openscad, as far as I know) software that can compute the volume via command-line (powershell) and with some text editing I can get the volumes for all of these parts (needing some patience), but I didn't find any similar tool for the surface.
The best tool would output such thing as:
> `input.stl - 75.554mm2 - 45.547mm3`
I'm not sure this post is adequate in here, but anyway, thanks.
# Answer
You could use the **Python console of FreeCAD**. Issuing the following commands
```
FreeCAD.ActiveDocument.ActiveObject.Shape.Area
FreeCAD.ActiveDocument.ActiveObject.Shape.Volume
```
will output the area and the volume of the object, respectively.
I don't know how to access the console output from outside FreeCAD, but there is an option in FreeCAD called **Redirect internal Python output to report view** which I think is what you are looking for.
You might want to look into the Scripting documentation of FreeCAD for further instructions.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, software, cad, stl
--- |
thread-6628 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6628 | Problems with Z step | 2018-08-11T12:10:56.980 | # Question
Title: Problems with Z step
Recently I bought a Prusa i3 pro W (from Geeetech) and I've been struggling with something that is ruining all my printings. I attach a photo with what was supposed to be little "boxes":
As you can see the Z distance is doing weird things, I think may can be fixed through this configurations, as it seems the Z axis is moving too much:
On the other hand, the form the printer is doing the skirt is also bothering me, I've tried a lot of configurations and I think it's a problem of over extrusion, but I'm a newbie and I don't really know what more could I do...
I'll really thank you for every answer because I've been a lot of days with this and I begin to feel really disappointed with all.. Thank you!
# Answer
> 5 votes
1. as per base of the pink printout it looks like the bed is far below the nozzle (level the bed)
2. to check the Z steps/mm setting, the best way will be to home it, then from menu move Z by 50mm and check with a ruler or meter traveled distance.
3. then using a formula (requestedMove/measuredMove) * currentSteps set new value in to Z steps/mm setting. After that repeat the exercise until you will get no difference.
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Tags: z-axis, extrusion
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thread-6632 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6632 | Identify temperature sensor | 2018-08-11T23:18:20.737 | # Question
Title: Identify temperature sensor
Am wondering if anybody knows what type of sensor this is (from a build plate).
Perhaps a thermocoupler? The colouring of the wires seems to suggest it is not directional?
Would like to know details so that I can make use of it in my own projects.
# Answer
> 6 votes
It is quite likely not a thermocouple, but a thermistor:
* A thermocouple would look like a small blob of metal. The tip of your temperature sensor appears to be a glass bead, which is a commonly used way to encase thermistors.
* Thermocouples are polarized. The fact that the wiring is not "directional" suggests it is a thermistor.
* Thermocouples are used in high-temperature applications (such as a high-temperature hotend for printing specialty materials), where a thermistor would break down. The bed is not such a high-temperature application.
You can easily verify this with a multimeter. If it was a thermocouple, its resistance would be near zero. With a thermistor, you should see a decent amount of resistance (most 3D printing thermistors are 100k at room temperature).
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Tags: electronics, part-identification
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thread-5856 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5856 | Robotdigg linear guide not smooth motion | 2018-04-21T12:31:20.670 | # Question
Title: Robotdigg linear guide not smooth motion
I recently bought the MGN12H linear guide and rail from robotdigg, which is supposed to be the copy of the Hiwin. I have noticed that the motion is very smooth when moving fast, but if I move it very slowly, it gets stuck and the motion is not smooth at all. I think this will cause problems on my prints once I assamble the printer. Am I missing something? Should I put some king of oil on the balls?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Difficult to say with the given data, but here are a couple of ideas:
**First theory:**
> The belt is too thin/flexible for the linear guide.
Linear guides remove the backslash by adding quite some pressure in the ball system: The block is slightly too small (compared to the rail) and thus it compress the balls and rail. The backslash is avoided until you reach this force.
This pressure require a little bit of force to move the block along the rail, so if your belt is too thin or flexible, the belt will start to move until the elasticity of the belt reach the force required to move the block, then the block move a little bit and stop again.
In a fast movement, your block never get to stop, while in a slow movement, it has time to start and stop. Maybe what you feel like "not a smooth movement"
If you identify this case, I suggest you the following solutions:
* Lubricate correctly the guide, this could be enough to reduce the issue to an acceptable level.
* Change the belt to a larger one, with fibre glass inside (not only rubber).
* If I am correct, the "H" of your MGN12H stand for the pressure of the block. `H` is for high pressure, switching to a `C` is far enough for a 3D printer and will reduce the drag.
**Second theory:** (Thanks to FernandoBaltazar)
> You got some dust, rust inside
Remove the belt and move the block with the hand, if you are able to feel the movement is not smooth, then it's probably this case.
* Add some grease (Never in your life use cooking oil)
* Clean the dust of the rail and exterior of the block
* Move the block from one side to the other of the rail until the movement become smooth.
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, linear-motion
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thread-5595 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5595 | Hall Sensor Diagnostic | 2018-03-06T15:58:43.843 | # Question
Title: Hall Sensor Diagnostic
I'm looking for some help with an ID3 Glacier Point 3D printer that I currently use. The hall sensors on one end of the X and Y axes have stopped functioning. I need to diagnose and confirm that the hall sensors are faulty before I can replace them (work stipulation.) I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of some diagnostic technique to detect faulty hall sensors? Google hasn't been much of an aid here, unfortunately.
# Answer
> 1 votes
It's really pretty easy to diagnose a Hall effect sensor. If you plug the sensor into the board (so it has power), then wave a metal object (screwdriver tip should work nicely) very close to the head of the sensor, the light should go on if it's reading. If the light doesn't come on, there's an issue. An issue would most likely be the wiring. You may want to test the same sensor by plugging it into a known good port on your main board. Any of the axis stops should behave the same, but since it's both the x- and y-axis sensors which are not functioning, I'd try attaching them to the z-axis stop.
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Tags: electronics
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thread-3924 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3924 | Anet A8 won't print | 2017-04-25T20:41:39.377 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 won't print
I have just built my Anet A8 and it won't print.
I will preheat it (190°C 60°C) and then press "`Print File`" and select, then it starts for a second, gets to around 11% and stops and shows "`Preheat PLA`". The PLA is already preheated - it is coming out of the nozzle.
Any help would be appreciated.
# Answer
I had a similar problem last week where the thermostat's heat shrink was being melted by the block and the two wires were touching. I fixed this by securing the thermistor and putting a thermal insulator between the block and the wires. I also put a small piece of heat shrink between the wires to insulate them so they will never touch. Thank you and I hope this helps.
> 5 votes
# Answer
The Anet A8 files that come preloaded are `.stl` so if you try to print those it will say printing zero percent and then just switch right back to preheating PLA without any error message. Download a free slicer tool if that's the case.
> 0 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, extruder, pla, anet-a8
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thread-6630 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6630 | Short to ground error using TMC2130 stepper drivers | 2018-08-11T16:04:26.237 | # Question
Title: Short to ground error using TMC2130 stepper drivers
I have recently got an MKS GEN L V1.0 board and 5 TMC2130s. (X, Y, two Z, E). I have wired it all up and uploaded Marlin 1.1.9 and after some quick troubleshooting I got the motors moving. Next day I tried it again and it gave me this error:
> E0 driver error detected: overtemperature short to ground (coil A) short to ground (coil B)
with the following driver debug report: (notice that the extruder driver doesn't show up)
> ```
> X Y Z
> Enabled false false false
> Set current 800 800 800
> RMS current 795 795 795
> MAX current 1121 1121 1121
> Run current 25/31 25/31 25/31
> Hold current 12/31 12/31 12/31
> CS actual 12/31 12/31 12/31
> PWM scale 10 10 10
> vsense 1=.18 1=.18 1=.18
> stealthChop true true true
> msteps 16 16 16
> tstep 1048575 1048575 1048575
> pwm
> threshold 0 0 0
> [mm/s] - - -
> OT prewarn false false false
> OT prewarn has been triggered false false false
> off time 5 5 5
> blank time 24 24 24
> hysteresis
> -end 2 2 2
> -start 3 3 3
> Stallguard thrs 8 8 0
> DRVSTATUS X Y Z
> stallguard
> sg_result 0 0 0
> fsactive
> stst X X X
> olb
> ola
> s2gb
> s2ga
> otpw
> ot
> Driver registers: X = 0x80:0C:00:00
> Y = 0x80:0C:00:00
> Z = 0x80:0C:00:00
>
> ```
I did some research and found that you should change the CS pin for that stepper and so I did. I tried almost every available pin on my board but no luck. The only change I got was when I wired it to pin 11 and got this:
> E0 driver error detected: overtemperature short to ground (coil A)
I have the Watterott TMC2130 SilentStep Sticks and have examined the board which seemed correct. Is all wired correctly. Tomorrow I will try to switch the driver to one from another axis and try to switch the stepper to see if anything changes, but it seems to me that it shouldn't since it worked for some time.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I have fixed it. I tried uploading the bugfix version of Marlin and no luck. Then I noticed a loose jumper wire that connected the driver to the board and when re-installing it I noticed it didn't grip the pin that strongly and could be easily pulled off so I switched the wire and everything works now. Turns out that even jumper wires can have a bad connection. Hope this helps someone.
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Tags: marlin, stepper-driver, tmc2130
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thread-6644 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6644 | Show the time index in Cura Layer View playback | 2018-08-13T05:17:30.263 | # Question
Title: Show the time index in Cura Layer View playback
Cura has a layer view feature that lets you watch a simulation of the extruder head as it lays down material at each layer. Is it possible to get Cura to show a time stamp as it does this? That would let me set reminders to check a print just at certain critical times.
# Answer
> 7 votes
These estimates tend to be very approximate, even if Cura has the accurate acceleration values for your firmware. An error of 100% is not unusual.
What you probably want is an alarm at a specific layer (a few before the critical ones). You might be able to add this to Octoprint fairly easily - it does support plugins which can provide (for example) pushbullet notifications.
I'm not sure that 'critical' points are much more likely to fail than other less predictable things (like bed adheesion failure, extruder jams, filament breaks) - unless you're testing features (and then hopefully you can print only a slice of the part).
# Answer
> 2 votes
If I may interpret your question a bit, and add alternatives to Sean H's suggestions. I agree that any attempt to estimate elapsed time per layer is doomed.
Perhaps you should just look at the LayerView to determine the critical layers of interest. Then edit the gcode file in a text editor. Locate the start of the layer in question, and insert a PAUSE command (as well as whatever other actions your firmware supports, in case you can actually send an audible alarm or something).
If you really just want to print a subsection of the item, you're better off removing the unwanted parts in MeshMixer/MeshLab/whateverCAD , and slicing just the part you want to produce.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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